CJ Spring 2020

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The independent voice for the industry since 1879

Canadian Jeweller Magazine SPRING 2020 ISSUE

TRENDING Swarovski Celebrating 125-year Anniversary

RED CARPET

BE THE STYLIST

Bling at the Oscars 2020

42709013 | 920 YONGE STREET SUITE 608 TORONTO ONTARIO M4W 3C7 / $25

Crosby by Mollie Burch

SISTER SENSATION C

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THE FAMILY LEGACY CONTINUES HOWARD FINE JEWELLERS & CUSTOM DESIGNERS TRUE BIJOUX








UE 2017

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JCK ISSUE 2017

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

Canadian Jeweller Magazine Canadian Jeweller Magazine SPRING 2020 ISSUE

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

ESTA BLISHED 1879 ESTABLISHED 1879

Vol. 138 / No. 02

Vol. 141 / No. 01

OLI V IER FELICIO C AY L A R A MEY COR R INA MOSCA SCOT T JOR DA N

Publisher / olivier@canadianjeweller.com Managing Editor / cayla@thergmgroup.net Editorial Assistant / corrina@thergmgroup.net Art Director / scott@rivegauchemedia.com

OLIVIER FELICIO Founder and Thoughtsmith / olivier@canadianjeweller.com D A N I E L L A V I Z Z A R I Graphic Designer / daniella@thergmgroup.net DIANA BERDICHEVSKY Content Director / diana@thergmgroup.net Design & Art Director / marcelo@thergmgroup.net MARCELO Dwane, Breanne Forbes, Larry Johnson, John Lamont, C O N RAMOS TRIBUTOR S Christine Joelle Litt, Markand Lutley, Duncan Parker, Karen Simmons Vessot,Lee, Dana McLaven Porana Ladawan CONTRIBUTORS ClaireShawna SALES OLI V IER FELICIO

Advertising Sales tel: 416-203-7900 x6107 / email: olivier@canadianjeweller.com

Editorial Board EDITE M A RTINS

Advertising Sales tel: 416-203-7900 x6112 / email: edite@thergmgroup.net

Joe Goncalves Jean-Christophe Bedos Beth Saunders 920 Yonge Street, Suite 610, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3C7 Central Birks, President &HCEO Canadian Jewellery Group E A D O F F I C E Time tel: 416-203-7900 fax: 416-703-6392

Marco Miserendino Haigo Derian Steve Turac Controller &Italienne Operations / melanie@rivegauchemedia.com P.M. Inc. L’Oro JewelleryM E L A N I E S E T H Bijouterie Turac Luxury Group Inc. LUC Y HOLDEN

General Customer Care Manager / lucy@thergmgroup.net

Richard Rooney Gino DeVuono tel: 514-381-5196 M O NResource T R E A L O F F I C E Bogart’s Jewellery Specialty Watch

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Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume responsibility for the contents of any advertisement; any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is CHANGE OF ADDRESS not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall email: circulation@canadianjeweller.com telephone: 416-203-7900 fax: 416-703-6392 not exceed the amount of the publisher’s advertising. NoJeweller portion of this may reproduced, in all or in part, without the or send yourcharge cover labelfor andsuch new address to Canadian 920 Yonge St.,publication Suite 610, Toronto, ON.be M4W 3C7 express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration PUBLISHED BY (photographs, THE RGM GROUP illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be usedPost by Canadian Jeweller Mail and Sales its afProduct liates for editorial anypublisher media (whether printed, electronic, disc, etc.) without theany consent Canada Canadian Publications Agreement No.purposes 40678000.inThe does not assume responsibility for internet, the contents of any advertisement; and all of, or the payment of compensation to, the party are providing material. direct submissions to the Editor, Jeweller. Return undeliverable representations or warranties made in such advertising those of such the advertiser andPlease not of the publisher. The publisher is not liableCanadian to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and initems such antoevent limit of the publisher’s shall notSte. exceed the Toronto, amount of the such advertising. No portion of this publiRivetheGauche Media, 920liability Yonge St., 608, ONpublisher’s Canadacharge M5R for 3K4. cation may be reproduced, in all or in part, without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller and its affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian Jeweller. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 920 Yonge St., Ste. 610, Toronto, ON Canada M5R 3K4.

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Cover Lindsay and Stephanie Appotive - HOWARD Fine Jewellers & Custom Designers - True Bijoux Photography Kamara Morozuk

www.canadianjeweller.com @canadian_jeweller CJMagazine cj_mag


WWW.CARMENCO.COM • TOLL FREE 1-(888) 825-0527


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Departments, Features & Columns

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22 PRODUCT SHOWCASE Products from the hottest brands 28 COVER STORY Sister Sensation The Family Legacy Continues

Contents 12 EDITOR’S LETTER Innovation in the New Century 14 CONTRIBUTORS Isabella Yan and more

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

48 TRENDS FOR 2020 Zaleska Jewelry, Dana McLaven, Claire Vessot and more 60 SPONSOR CONTENT Quality Products from United PMR

15 WHAT’S ON A Look at Upcoming Events

62 SHOWROOM IDEAS Comfort and experience for your clients

18 BE THE STYLIST Crosby by Mollie Burch

66 LAST WORD Cartier Panthère

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38 TRENDING Swarovski, Beyoncé, Bling at the Oscars and more

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GROW NOW, NOT LATER STRATEGIC BRAND MANAGEMENT STRUCTURED TO GROW YOUR BUSINESS.

From showcase to end-user experience. Erad Brand Management makes the difference.

> eradbrandmanagement.com

Contact: 647 363 5802 ext.3 • 412E, 1255 Phillips Square • Montreal • QC • H3B 3G1


Editor’s Letter

W

e are well into the first quarter of 2020 and many are wondering what the rest of this year has in store.

We’ve seen, so far, that the price of gold is set to stay high or even keep rising, Lab-diamonds are making an incredible impact and appearance on the world’s stage as mainstay’s in today’s marketplace with Swarovski and other large retailers joining the lab created diamond movement. Not to mention, our dependence on and relationship to digital is at an all-time high with every retailer placing a large emphasis on creating and managing their social media platforms to meet the demands of their online audiences and clients. Undoubtedly, we are surrounded with incredible opportunities that are all part of this innovation. Today’s jewellery business means so much more than having beautiful products in the showcases waiting for customers to come into the store. Today’s jeweller is part of the innovation happening in and around us at lightening speed. Today’s jeweller is not only an amazing customer service specialist, knowledgeable about their inventory like no other, today’s jeweller is a digital expert and a story-teller. Can you count how many times someone has walked into your store with their smartphone showing you an image from Instagram asking you if you have it? Our rate of sharing and creating stories is at an all time high and we must keep up with the creative flow of ideas, images and inspiration to stay current, relevant and cutting edge. That is our new evolution.

Innovation in the New Century Diana Berdichevsky, Content Director

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Our expertise has switch from knowing what we have to understanding what the digital world is telling us we must have. Today, mixing our core knowledge with our ability to work in the digital arena is the ultimate recipe for success. Ultimately, 2020 is about innovation and this is only the beginning. At the Canadian Jeweller Magazine we have been preparing for this Digital Innovation for some time with great precision and care. Today, we have our own social media digital platform available for your use allowing you to manage multiple platforms and to schedule content with ease, all from one integrated platform. To stay on top of trends we also recommend subscribing to Google Trends (free of charge) and other similar current trends news outlets. Staying on top of innovation doesn’t have to be challenging. Today, things are at our fingertips, literally. Welcoming digital experts onto your team might be the next logical opportunity to grow your business where it matters now. 2020 is all about innovation and this decade is not one you are going to want to miss so embrace innovation. It’s a fast moving train and we all have to get on!


©2018 Gemological Institute of America, Inc.

At GIA, gems endure even more pressure. Science and discovery underpins everything we do. Since 1931, the Gemological Institute of America® has been unearthing the truth about gems and creating industry standards. With unwavering commitment to accurate and unbiased methodologies, our dedicated research staff advances the knowledge the industry and consumers need to protect confidence in gems and jewelry. Our discoveries are one of the many reasons why GIA is the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, colored stones and pearls. The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology

TM

Learn more about the many facets of GIA at GIA.edu

BENEFICIATION

EDUCATION

Ensuring the Public Trust Through Nonprofit Service Since 1931

INSTRUMENTS

LABORATORY

RESEARCH


Contributors

Closing, Retiring Downsizing? Claire Vessot

Not sure of the options?

Designing jewellery from her studio in Montreal, Claire’s specialty is brand design. Behind the scenes, she’s created numerous Collections in partnership with both domestic and international manufacturers. Earning 20 Industry Design Awards along the way, Vessot is perhaps best known for her more visible work as former Lead and Senior Designer for ELLE jewelry. Claire’s own online boutique features her sterling silver designer’s choices along with a select range of gold essentials with a focus on things she personally endorses such as Italian hoops and light-hearted spreadable rings. Claire’s work evokes a unique individual style and reflects her motto: empowerment, kindness, strength and confidence.

Dana McLaven After working in sporting goods at Nike, Adidas and Champion for 14 years Dana came to the industry through a close friend. The transition from technical sporting apparel to diamonds was fun and Dana first trained with her friend, then later pursued courses through GIA. Dana has been designing for 13 years. Her love of jewellery and design makes working in the industry a perfect fit, along with working with people “it’s one of the best parts of my job!”

We can help. Silverman’s Consultants have delivered sales strategy, direction, and solutions to jewellery stores of every size. Whether you’d like a transitional plan, retirement strategy, or a total liquidation, Silverman Consulting & Retail Services has the custom-made solution to create your successful sale event.

Porana Ladawan Ladawan is the second generation to run a family jewellery business. The original brand SIAMWELL was founded since 1983 by her parents and was where she began to learn her craft. With expertise jewellery knowledge from her family business coupled with a background as an Interior Designer plus an MBA degree from Cleveland State University, USA, Ladawan created her own jewellery brand, PORANA, which delivers unique simplicity for everyday wear. Her Interior Design background encouraged her to design jewellery pieces with a concept and storytelling approach along with versatility and functionality. This can be observed in her WEAVE and PASINH collections that won the Design Excellence Award in Denmark.

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Give us a call to discuss your options.

SILVERMAN CONSULTING & RETAIL SERVICES Saskatoon & Toronto | 1-888-955-1069 office@silvermancanada.com www. silvermancanada.com

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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What’s On

Gear up for the year by staying informed on what shows are bound to be the biggest hits in 2020. Also, be sure to check out canadianjeweller.com for a full online calendar listing of the major shows for 2020.

BANGKOK GEMS AND JEWELRY FAIR RUNS: FEBRUARY & SEPTEMBER (BIANNUALLY)

EVENT CANCELLED BECAUSE CORONAVIRUS.

EVENT CANCELLED BECAUSE CORONAVIRUS.

Trade days 25-27 February Public days 28-29 February

BASELWORLD:

This show is a mammoth in the Jewellery arena and is the longest-celebrated gems and jewellery trade fair in the industry. The show runs on a biannual basis by Thiland’s Department of International Trade Promotion and is considered a significant trading arena where key global players can connect, source, trade and network. Don’t miss this gem of an opportunity to attend the Bangkok Gems and Jewelery Fair and stay an extra few days in exotic Thailand.

One of the most prestigious Jewellery shows in the world, Basel World Switzerland, runs April 30 - May 5 and brings together the world’s major watch and jewellery brands splashing glitter and glamour throughout the exhibition halls, attracting buyers and media representatives.

NOTE: Bangkok Gems announces that it has taken the decision to postpone the show to Monday May 18 to Thursday May 21 2020.

NOTE: Baselworld announces that it has taken the decision to postpone the show to Thursday January 28 to Tuesday February 2nd 2021.

For six days, around 700 luxury brands put their best on display delighting experts, international celebrities and watch and jewellery connoisseurs alike. Anyone looking for unique quality has come to the right place.

J.W. Histed Diamonds Ltd. Vancouver, B.C. rounds “full cut” tapered baguettes rounds “single cut”

pear oval marquise

half moon heart princess cushion grooved princess radiant straight baguettes trapezoid trillian asscher natural colour rose cuts emerald treated colour

Contact us for a current price list or online at www.jwdiamonds.ca 1-800-663-1458 / 604-681-8519 / fax 604-681-2413 JW Findings_H2.indd 1

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2015-08-25 1:38 PM C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M­­­


Be The Stylist

y b s o r C by

ch

Bur e i l l o M

If there’s a time to go all out and turn heads, this period is the beginning of a New Year.

Stand out from the crowd with a bold jumpsuit or dress from CROSBY by Mollie Burch or a chic blazer & legging combo from Terez, with just a touch of glitter perfect for a special night! Nothing is better than that perfect outfit that makes you feel confident and cool dancing your way in this brand new year that has started. crosbybymollieburch.com

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Multi color Agate necklace $268 Multi color Agate bracelet $149 www.ayalaraiter.com

Dangling amethyst “Orchestra” earrings. 14kt Gold set with Amethyst. Designed and made in Canada by Anita Agrawal. Retail MRSP: $1200 www.bbjw.com

“Sleek Butterfly” and CZ Earrings: Sterling silver studs set with Cubic Zirconias. MRSP: $50 www.bbjw.com

Sterling silver and CZ Key “To My Heart” necklace set with genuine fresh water pearl. MRSP: $120 www.bbjw.com

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Fresh water disc pearls necklace with 25K gold plated $369 www.ayalaraiter.com

Fresh water pearls bracelet with 24K gold plated $178 www.ayalaraiter.com

Druzy Quartz bracelets on a cord $228 Agate Bracelet with a 24K gold plated bead $198 www.ayalaraiter.com

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Alfred Sung Unisex Fitness Tracker - Black digital dial with Rose gold 36x44mm case and rose gold mesh bracelet or black silicone strap. Android & IOS Compatible. Other colour combinations available. www.carmenco.com

14kt Gold “Luna Drops” Earrings. set with genuine onyx and garnet half moon cut stones. Designed and made in Canada by Anita Agrawal. MRSP: $1200 www.bbjw.com

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Product Showcase

GIA

Put your store on the map and be sure customers find your business by registering on GIA’s Retailer Lookup. Through a city or postal code search, the Lookup allows customers to nd local establishments that offer GIA-graded stones or have GIA-trained staff. Sign up today through the Retailer Support Program website at retailer. www.GIA.edu

Maurice Laroix

Masterpiece Moonphase Retrograde 43 mmI. Twenty years after the launch of the first Maurice Lacroix model featuring a retrograde display, the Jura-based brand continues to embrace contemporary, elegant watchmaking imbued with traditional know-how. The intricately designed Moonphase Retrograde provides a wonderful introduction to the world of complications, a characteristic shared with other members of the Masterpiece collection. www.mauricelacroix.com

Bvlgari

FIOREVER RING – Blooming amongst the marvels of the Eternal City, Fiorever draws inspiration from the alluring four-petal flower cherished in all times by the Romans as a symbol of happiness and joy. In a blend of two meaningful words, Fiore, Italian for flower, and forever, Fiorever celebrates the Roman love for life with a free-spirited and passionate design. Meant to sparkle with eternal glow, the precious floral icon is crafted with a corolla of highest quality diamonds. Fiorever ring in 18 kt white gold with one central brilliant-cut diamond (0.30 ct) and pavé diamonds (0.37 ct). www.bulgari.com

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Boghossían Kissing Fancy Yellow Diamond and Diamond Ring, Kissing Fancy Yellow Diamond and Diamond Earrings, and Kissing Paraiba and Aquamarine Ring. The Kissing Collection offers innovative pieces and unique combinations of precious gems, with distinct yet perfect harmony in shape and color. The technique revolves around setting one stone on top of another, whereby gems embrace beautifully to create the perfect light. www.boghossianjewels.com

Fendi

FF BRACELET – Gold and black coloured bracelet. Rigid bracelet with FF motif. Spring fastening. Made of metal with a gold finish. Enamelled in black. Made in Italy. www.fendi.com

Breitling

Breitling introduces the all-new Navitimer B03 Chronograph Rattrapante 45 watch. The Navitimer B03 Chronograph Rattrapante 45 has an 18 karat red gold case and is equipped with Breitling’s Manufacture Caliber B03, a unique split-second movement protected by two patents. The rattrapante is one of the most sophisticated com­plications in all of watchmaking. With two superimposed central chronograph hands, it can mea­sure two elapsed times simultaneously. The rattrapante feature in the new Breitling Navitimer B03 Chrono­graph Rattrapante 45 is very special indeed, and there are some additional details that define this watch as an instant classic. Breitling.com

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Cover Story

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Sister

Sensation The Family Legacy Continues by Diana Berdichevsky

S

isters Stephanie & Lindsay of Howard Fine Jewellers & True Bijoux Carve a Bright New Future Since Taking Over the Family Business, Bringing Insight and New Energy Into a Traditional Landscape

Work ethic is a strong thread in the Appotive family storyline. At only 16, Howard entered the jewellery world working for Mappins, located inside Freeman’s department store in Ottawa. He was just a stock boy but his passion for beautiful things and an eagerness for the business didn’t go unnoticed; he was soon promoted to the sales floor. With passion, perseverance and an impeccable work ethic, only a couple of years later Howard started working for the Birks sales team, then became the manager of the watch department and later earned his gemology degree as he continued to rise in his career. Not too long after he joined the Barri Brothers in Toronto, where he had the opportunity to learn manufacturing. Naturally, the young and eager Howard jumped at the opportunity to learn and grow in the business and at his craft. In 1967, Howard moved back to Ottawa and with a small loan from the bank (guaranteed by his Father) opened his own operation, Howard Manufacturing Jewellers. He focused on manufacturing, selling to local stores including Birks. Soon after he expanded his business into retail. Working with his brother David, the pair worked tirelessly to build up the family business. Rising from such humble beginnings and with many obstacles to overcome it’s an amazing achievement that today the company has earned its reputation as a well-recognized name across Canada and a pillar in the industry.

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And when the children came, naturally they were thrown into the mix. If you could sort, carry, help, smile or even take a nap in the back without disturbing anyone, you were part of a team. That’s how Howard’s two daughters, Stephanie and Lindsay, got their start. While other children were playing dollhouse, Stephanie and Lindsay joke that they were sorting pearls. Perhaps there is some truth to that since today the women have taken rein of the family business, expanding it to include True Bijoux, an urban jewellery boutique with its own unique offering and a novel, open environment where clients can see the jeweller working on their pieces. The Appotive sisters’ responsiveness and attentiveness to the shifts they are witnessing around them is cementing their reputation in the industry at a time when transition is happening across the board.

FOSTERING SUCCESS From an early age Howard gave his daughters the adult treatment, bringing them to important meetings where they could listen and learn. Howard also instilled a strong work ethic coupled with an appreciation for impeccable customer service. These early impressions set the sisters up for successful entrepreneurship and today they are passing on that knowledge to their own children. STEPHANIE: “Today, we have eight jewellers that work on site. We have a full laboratory with two fulltime gemologists, a watchmaking division and a service centre division; we’re vertically integrated. We’re continuing the legacy of welcoming our children into being flies on the wall and letting them find joy in being creative, which has always been an amazing thing that our father gave us. We were taken to meetings at the banks or with suppliers. The deal was we just had to be quiet and listen. Afterwards, he would always ask our opinion and get our thoughts. He has always been a wonderful teacher. We have a picture when my son was about 14 months old sitting on my father’s lap and they are looking at a diamond list on my father’s computer. My father was actually explaining to him why he would pick one diamond over the other. That’s just my father’s personality, start teaching at a super young age.”

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A FAMILY AFFAIR- NEW ERA, NEW HANDS In 2016, the Appotive sisters officially took over the family business. The transition has been smooth, with Howard staying on and continuing to work side by side- focusing on what he truly loves, his clients; meanwhile, the Appotive sisters have expanded the family business, opening a sister store: True Bijoux. STEPHANIE: “What’s nice is it truly compliments Howard Jewellers and it allows us to always be the jeweller for our clients. If somebody doesn’t want to spend X amount around Christmas but they love dealing with us, they can visit our sister store and find a beautiful pair of silver earrings, which we don’t have at Howard. I think that’s something that we’re doing that’s a little different from other family jewellers in the industry; instead of opening up a second Howard, we’ve started a spin off business to further reach our clients’ needs. At the core, the creation of True Bijoux in 2006 required the existing leadership, our father and uncle to willingly explore the next generation’s thinking and passions, allowing us to pursue our own ideas even if they did not always understand them. It also required us to be humble and open to the experiences and mentorship of the elder generation as they have valuable insights. Working together for the common goal of growing the business into the future, having shared values and open communication while keeping egos at bay are all part of the recipe that has worked for us to have successfully transitioned into a second-generation leadership role. Lindsay and I have always been in the jewellery world, our clients have known us personally for years and we are a true family business so any given day of the week you can walk in and see many family members and long-standing co-workers working side by side. Our clients love this experience of knowing so many familiar faces; the transition in many ways has been seamless and exciting for our clients to see us grow.” INVENTION-REINVENTION, THE GIFT OF FRESH EYES The Appotive family has always been ahead of the curve with innovation in their factory as well as with design. In tune with what is trending and anticipating customers’ demands, they noticed many were inheriting jewellery without much knowledge of what to do with it.


It’s always been important for our family to really teach us a very strong work ethic.

The accumulation of family jewellery will only increase in the future; part of the challenge will be translating these pieces into relevant and meaningful designs with contemporary functionality. The ability to solve challenges, the foresight to reinvent and look at things afresh has enabled the Appotive Sisters to embrace this opportunity for reinvention while creating invaluable pieces of family heirlooms that can continue to live and sparkle in the hands of their new owners. STEPHANIE: “I started having clients asking me what they could do with their inherited pieces “you know, this was my grandmother’s, I love it but I don’t wear it, but I want to!” Or clients who say, “Oh my goodness, I’m just not wearing this anymore.” Giving new life to existing pieces is a passion. Sometimes it is as simple as sandblasting that piece or setting a few stones in, and all of a sudden you can have that designer look that you really wanted to have all along. Redesign is an interesting opportunity in the jewellery industry, especially when you have manufacturing capabilities. We have the capability to help them see those pieces in a completely different way, that’s an important part of our businesses. Lindsay does a lot of that even with fashion jewellery. So it really becomes a service to our clients; this allows you to become part of somebody’s jewellery journey. It’s not just about selling them a $10,000 ring or a $20,000 necklace. It reminds me of an old Yiddish proverb which basically talks about making something from nothing; you have an old coat and the coat gets worn through so out of the coat you make a vest and when the vest wears through, then you make a handkerchief and when the handkerchief wears through, you make a patch.” LINDSAY: “And you end up actually starting a relationship with a client when you think that way. That’s because they look at you as a problem solver. You have their best interests at heart, you’re being practical with them. It really reinforces that practical value that our parents instilled in us and it rubs off on the whole team.”

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It also requires the new generation to be humble and open to the experiences and mentorship of the elder generation as they have valuable insights and have built the existing business.

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THE FEMALE SELF PURCHASER In addition to embracing every opportunity to serve the needs of their clients through customization, varied price points and exceptional customer service, the Appotive sisters have seen more and more women buying fine jewellery for themselves. Paying attention to shifting customer behaviours, they spot amazing opportunities to service a niche clientele. STEPHANIE: “This has been an exciting shift and we have curated our collections to specifically appeal to this growing category. We are working with many women that see the fine jewellery category more like a fashion accessory and we feel the biggest competition in this growing category ($295-$2500+) is luxury handbags & designer shoes.” As businesswomen who also love fashion we get it, life is busy and if you can look great quickly that is very appealing. The simple act of throwing on, for example, a lariet pearl necklace with a great pair of gold earrings instantly elevates a simple outfit just like a Gucci belt or a Louis Vuitton handbag. It’s an investment but it reaps many rewards. Our clients look to us for guidance on growing their jewellery wardrobe in a fun way and that suits their day to day lifestyle.” Although this is a growing category there are still challenges, including a strong sentiment by many that fine jewellery is to be ‘gifted’, as a husband to a wife for a special occasion. However, that’s no longer the case at all, the category is much broader. “We focus on delivering the right price and style that appeals to our clients while inadvertently challenging a well-established norm.” CLIENTELING Carrying on the legacy instilled in them by their father, the Appotive sisters focus on exceptional customer service across the board, whether for something significant or small.

LINDSAY: “Our focus in 2020 is ensuring that our clients consistently have the same wow experience across all platforms and in-store. It’s easier to control this message in a small store where the owner is a part of most, if not all, the interactions. However, as you grow and have more staff touch the client experience the challenges start to present themselves and it becomes apparent that continually developing and working on the store culture is a significant priority to maintain consistency.” LINDSAY: “We all know that it is easy to motivate a great sales team with the prospect of selling large ticket items but the same drive is important, if not

more, in the complimentary services we offer or the smaller purchases a client wishes to make. We want to be a part of our clients’ jewellery and watch journey and that might mean they are coming in for a $10 battery or a small solder job. They need to trust that for us ‘nothing is too big or too small’ This philosophy requires everyone to walk the walk; and in a team of 23 at Howard Jewellers or a team of 6 at True Bijoux, it is a priority for us to ensure that everyone shares this philosophy and embraces our store culture. We want our clients to always feel really well taken care of.”

STEPHANIE: “Of course, the industry has been talking about clienteling for a long time. We truly believe that the next level of that is an attitude of hospitality in retail. Our inspiration for that is more what you would see in the restaurant and hotel industry.” LINDSAY: “We had a customer visiting from California and she forgot her cell phone in the store; we went outside and tried to find her but obviously couldn’t. Through conversation the associate knew the hotel the customer was staying at. I said I would drop off her phone at the concierge. Well, that person called me, sent me flowers and couldn’t believe it. That’s an experience she will remember and that’s what I try and instil in all of our employees. Whether you are a jeweller, whether you’re the concierge or a receptionist, let’s always try and make somebody’s day. As for the shopping experience, clients should have fun and feel like they’re in your home. Providing a great experience does not necessarily mean giving the same experience to every single client. Some people want a cup of coffee, some people just want speed and fast problem-solving. It’s trying to cater to what they really need from you. We try to avoid a corporate experience where everything is the same across the board.” STEPHANIE: “So experience for us is really about personalization. You also have to have wonderful partners in terms of wholesalers and suppliers and brands and designers who share that vision. Really what you’re doing is you’re creating magic for people. That could be in a very small purchase, that could be in something that’s actually free. It could be a complimentary Rolex bracelet adjustment, for instance. That’s a new way to look at something and a new way to be teaching your team, that you might be meeting somebody for the first time and be giving a complimentary service, not focusing on a sale. You have to do that level of excellence, you have to have a long term vision.”

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LINDSAY: “We think one of the big challenges moving forward is delivering a personalized experience for people across the entire channel. It’s one thing to be able to master it in-store, it’s another matter to be able to translate that through messages you receive on LinkedIn, Facebook Messenger, Instagram.” THE DIGITAL EXPERIENCE Digital is the main focus for the Appotive Sisters in 2020. Recognizing the importance of fostering a digital environment that reflects the personality and experience of shopping in-store is their motivation and bridging this gap will allow clients to seamlessly interact with their brands on various digital platforms; some clients love Instagram, others Facebook. The Appotive sisters want to meet and engage with clients in the arena of their choice. They view social media as a new form of window shopping. Of course, the ultimate goal is for the client to come into the store to touch, talk, interact and treat themselves but it often times all starts online. STEPHANIE: “I also really emphasize the in store experience and listening to clients. How do they want to have that in-store experience? What does that feel like to them? Because as wonderful as digital is the goal is to bring them in store but the experience has to be consistent. If they found us on Instagram and followed us does it feel similar when they walk through our doors? With social media, we are using it as a way to connect with clients, we almost look at it like it’s our own magazine. It’s our opportunity to share content with people, it’s an opportunity to start a conversation and engage them. It’s really remarkable how when we spend time on delivering quality content; the responses that we actually get from that. Our way of handling it is we have our own in-store teams.” LINDSAY: “The reality is that my generation is on their phone.” STEPHANIE: “And it requires all of us to be so dedicated to learning this new environment. We’re very lucky that we have wonderful suppliers and brands, who have also embraced it and who are focusing on helping to teach and share their own experiences with it as well, which goes to the importance of partnerships. Because if you’re carrying brands that do not understand that, then that poses its own challenge. We as retailers can’t do it alone.”

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“Our focus in 2020 is ensuring that our clients consistently have the same “wow” experience across all platforms and in-store.”

STEPHANIE: “Which is something that comes from our father. The other thing that comes from him is that you treat everybody equally. That really feeds into your ability to deliver hospitality at a level of excellence to everybody. If it’s not in your mindset to treat everybody equally and to be open to people, then you can’t be hospitable in a genuine way.” “To move into the future successfully, for everyone, I think we need to talk more amongst each other. We have many close friends in the jewellery industry who own other stores and who are suppliers and we really believe it’s about collaborating together. We both have a tremendous amount of respect for our fellow jewellers and we’ve learned a lot of them- we have a lot of mentors. We’re much stronger together than we are as individuals.”

LINDSAY: “I used to think of social media as a chore. And I had a mental shift, that this could be really fun. When I did that things started to change, I started to see sales through direct messages, customers coming into the store, showing me their phone, “I want this off the post”. If you don’t enjoy it, you have to find somebody who will.” THE LEGACY Objectively, a lot has changed since the two Appotive brothers opened Howard Manufactured Fine Jewellery back in ’67. The first generation was operated by two brothers, today it is run by two female entrepreneurs with their finger on the pulse of an exceptionally quickly shifting online environment, new shopping habits and demographics. The Appotives see these shifts as opportunities and are looking into the future with excitement. There is a lot to be done and so much innovation to embrace. The journey won’t necessarily be easy but their foundation for success and a hard work ethic has been set up by the generation previous. STEPHANIE: “We want to be known as collaborators, we want to be known as innovators and we want to be known for delivering excellence. We’re very open to constructive criticism, open to becoming better. At the end of the day, we’re striving for excellence; but because you’ve reached excellence, you can’t rest on your laurels. It requires a lot of work to stay there.” LINDSAY: “I really believe in the journey together; with suppliers, with clients with everything. I don’t believe in the word No, I believe if there’s a will, there’s a solution and you can find it.”

HOWARD FINE JEWELLERS & CUSTOM DESIGNERS Number of Employees: 23 Number of Locations: 1 Years in Operation: 53 Square Footage: 4250 Sq Brands: Rolex, Tudor,

Howard Custom, Hearts on Fire, Tacori, Fope, Vahan, Furrer Jacot

Top jewellery style:

Diamond rings

TRUE BIJOUX Number of Employees: 6 Number of Locations: 1 Years in Operation: 14 Square Footage: 2000 Sq Brands: Gabriel & Co,

Todd Reed, Belle Etoile, Benchmark, Thomas Sabo, Petit Bijoux Top jewellery style: Vintage

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Trending

World’s Second-Biggest Diamond in History Bought by Louis Vuitton Luxury French fashion house Louis Vuitton is setting its sights on the fine jewellery market

The prestigious luxury brand – known for its leather handbags – recently purchased the 1,758-carat Sewelo diamond, the world’s second-largest diamond ever found in history, according to several reports. In April 2019, Lucara Diamond Corp. found the gem in Botswana at the Karowe mine, naming it Sewelo – which translates to “rare find” in Tswana, one of the languages spoken in Botswana – according to Bloomberg.

Marcel Pruwer, the former president of the Antwerp Diamond Exchange, estimated that the gem might have cost the brand– whose parent company, LVMH, recently acquired Tiffany & Co. in a $16.2 billion purchase – around $50 million.

The diamond company struck a deal with Louis Vuitton, though it is not known how much the brand paid for the rock, which is roughly the size of a tennis ball.

“There are less than 10 people in the world who would know what to do with a stone-like that or how to cut it and be able to put the money on the table to buy it,” Pruwer told The New York Times. “To buy and then sell what could be a $50 million stone, you need the technical qualifications, as well as the power to write the check and take the risk.”

Michael Burke, the chief executive of Louis Vuitton, told The New York Times that the purchase price was in the “millions” and acknowledged that “some of my competitors, I believe, will be surprised” by the news. “Nobody expects us to put such an emphasis on high jewellery,” Burke told the outlet. “I think it will spice things up a bit. Wake up the industry.”

But this isn’t the first time Lucara has scored big in the diamond mine. In 2015, the company found the 1,109-carat Lesedi La Rona diamond, which at the time was named the second-largest diamond ever. It was sold to Graff, a British jeweller, for $53 million. That same year Lucara also found the 813-carat Constellation stone, which sold for $63 million to Nemesis International in Dubai.

While many may be surprised by Louis Vuitton’s eagerness to break into the high-end jewellery industry, Burke also told the Financial Times that he sees a lot of “potential” for his company in the market.

The largest diamond on record was the 3,106-carat Cullinan diamond. It was found in 1905 in South Africa. The stone was famously cut into several gems – the largest of which (one of 530.4 carats and one 317.4 carats) are now part of the British crown jewels.

“It’s the biggest potential we have right now,” he told the outlet, adding that the industry is “one of the highest-growth categories we have, if not the highest.”

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Swarovski Unveils New Lab-Grown Diamond Collection Swarovski launched 16 new Swarovski Created Diamonds in Astonishing Cuts and Colours During Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week Swarovski is not just sitting pretty. As times change so to must the brave and Swarovski is choosing the later, taking the market by storm by unveiling a new lab-grown diamond collection. The brand unveiled the stunning collection during Paris’ fashion week. The collection debuted 16 colours presented in four pillars referencing the creative fields strongly associated with Swarovski: Fashion, Art, Music & Architecture. Swarovski’s colourful collection captures the imagination fusing craftsmanship and cutting edge technological innovation. The new collection is touted as the most extensive assortment of hues available on the global market today. The colours reflect a callback to Swarovski’s history of colourful creative collaborations and ingenuity. The colours of the stones are taken from inspirations: the sky in a cubist painting, a gothic sculpture, a couture gown and the colours from a variety of music cultures. Each pillar of the lab-grown diamonds contain four cushion cut diamonds dominated by the boldest of the four colours. They are available in 2.5 ct. The rest of the three colours are 1.25 ct. each. The standard selection will be offered from 0.25 ct. to 1.5 ct. Swarovski’s new lab created diamonds evolve on the brand’s history, innovation and craftsmanship, adapting those core qualities into the 21st century. The company itself was founded back in 1895. This year Swarovski’s celebrates its 125th anniversary. Certainly, the brands ability to innovate may be the contributing factor to its incredible longevity.

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Online Expansion Transforms Maison Birks into Canada’s Top Ecommerce Destination for Luxury Jewellery and Timepieces Maison Birks, Canada’s premier fine jewellery and timepiece house, has announced a significant expansion of its online offerings just in time for the Holiday season. “We are proud to say that Maisonbirks.com is Canada’s leading luxury jewellery and timepiece destination,” says Jean-Christophe Bédos, President and CEO of Birks Group Inc. Maisonbirks.com collections now include jewellery brands Chaumet and Messika, which are exclusive to Maison Birks in Canada. In addition to Birks fine jewellery, the website features Dinh Van, Marco Bicego, Roberto Coin and Yoko London. The expanded timepiece collections include Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Frédérique Constant, Longines, Montblanc, Tag Heuer and Wolf 1834. Maisonbirks.com is Cartier’s only official e-commerce partner in Canada. “Our goal is to give our clients an extensive offering and to build on the prestige of our brand partners,” says Mr. Bédos. “With these additions, Maisonbirks.com now offers the largest online selection of luxury jewellery and timepieces in Canada.” Currently there are 2,400 pieces available for purchase online, ranging in price from under $150 to $58,000. An additional catalogue of over 500 items, including a selection from Van Cleef & Arpels, Vhernier and Rolex, is available to browse and purchase via in-store appointment. “This is a valuable resource for clients who wish to browse the collections beforehand and then discover the pieces in store with a Maison Birks expert,” says Mr. Bédos. “We also plan to continue adding new jewellery and timepiece collections in 2020.” Online financing is offered on Maisonbirks.com with the Birks Flexiti credit card. The website also accepts Union Pay. “We offer an omni-channel luxury experience no matter how our client wishes to shop,” says Bédos. “Whether they are physically coming into our stores, or shopping from the comfort of their own homes, we want both experiences to be equally special and seamless.”

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Adidas and Beyonce to launch gender-neutral collection

Adidas will start selling a new collection designed with singer Beyoncé on Jan. 18 in a relaunch of her Ivy Park brand that includes shoes, clothes and accessories, mostly in maroon, orange and cream. Adidas described the collection, which features on the cover of January’s Elle magazine, as gender neutral. It includes jumpsuits, cargo pants, hoodies and cycling shorts, mostly featuring signature Adidas triple-stripes. The German sportswear brand announced it was teaming up with the singer in April to relaunch the Ivy Park brand Beyonce started in 2016 together with British fashion chain Topshop. The company did not give financial details. The partnership comes as Adidas seeks to attract more female customers, an area where it has lagged bigger rival Nike and German competitor Puma, which saw its sales boosted by a collaboration with singer Rihanna that ended last year. Adidas does not expect much of an immediate help to sales from the initial Beyonce collection, but it will ramp up over time, Chief Executive Kasper Rorsted told analysts in November. “You’re going to see several launches coming up, but they have no substantial revenue impact and this has been part of the plan all the time. You will see that change throughout next year,” the CEO said. Adidas has eroded Nike’s dominance of the U.S. market in recent years, helped by partnerships with celebrities like Kanye West and Pharrell Williams, but Nike has been growing faster in China and Europe, a trend that continued in the latest results. Ivy Park said last year Beyonce had bought the fitness clothing brand from Topshop.

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DAMAC Chairman Hussain Sajwani’s Private Investment Firm Acquires Iconic Italian Fashion Brand Roberto Cavalli Chairman of Dubai based DAMAC Properties, Hussain Sajwani, has bought the Italian fashion group Roberto Cavalli SpA. through his private investment company, Vision Investments. The UAE-based investment company emerged as the top bidder amongst various entities that were vying for the globally recognized fashion brand. Roberto Cavalli was previously controlled by the Italian Private equity company, Clessidra. The acquisition of Roberto Cavalli by Vision Investments, part of the DICO Group, is an evolution of a partnership that was signed in 2017 between the fashion house and the DICO Group. Under the partnership, Roberto Cavalli will develop the interiors for luxury hotels under the ‘AYKON Hotels with interior design by Roberto Cavalli’ brand. Speaking about the acquisition, Hussain Sajwani said: “We are excited about carrying forward the incredible legacy of the Roberto Cavalli brand. DICO has a long and fruitful association with Roberto Cavalli, and I believe that the brand resonates with our idea of luxury. I am happy to announce that the transaction was executed swiftly and that we will ensure stability in management. “At DICO Investments, we aspire to own internationally recognized brands, and this acquisition marks a significant step in our strategy.” Established in 1992, the DICO Group is the multi-billion-dollar investment arm of Hussain Sajwani with diverse interests in markets around the world. The company’s investments are divided into five core areas; namely, Capital markets, Real Estate, Hotels & Resorts, Manufacturing and Catering and now luxury fashion. Some of DICO Investment’s most notable activities include the 50 storey DAMAC Towers Nine Elms in London, a luxury resort in the Maldives, shopping malls in Iraq, and the Mina Al Sultan Qaboos Waterfront real estate project in Oman, among others. The investment company plans to deploy approximately $3 billion over the next few years in key markets across Western Europe and the US. Today, the DICO Group’s global footprint extends across North America, Europe, Asia, Middle East and Africa. With its vision firmly set on growth and expansion, the DICO Group continues in its quest for diversification and business excellence.

Laferriere & Brixi Diamantaires, Still the Only World Diamond Mark® Authorized Diamond Dealer in Canada 3 years after becoming the first Canadian jeweller to be granted the accreditation of Authorized Diamond Dealer (ADD) from the World Diamond Mark®, Laferriere & Brixi Diamantaires is proud to have this accreditation renewed again. Described in 2017 as an “exclusive high street jeweller” by Alex Popov, President of World Diamond Mark®, Laferriere & Brixi retains the Canadian exclusivity of this distinction for the time being. This recognition from the World Federation of Diamond Bourses represents the diamond industry’s ultimate mark of trust for reputable jewellers who proudly collaborate with highly skilled and ethical sales teams. “We are passionate about the diamond industry and take great pride in our work. The ADD brand confirms, once again, our firm commitment to providing infallible service and ethics in all our business relationships, both in Quebec and abroad.” - Louis-Alexandre Laferriere “Furthermore, as synthetic diamonds proliferate on the market, Laferrière & Brixi is pleased and honoured to partner with the World Diamond Mark® as an advocate for the promotion of natural diamonds.” - Nadia Brixi About Laferriere & Brixi Diamantaires Inc. With offices in St-Lambert, Montreal and New York, LB Diamantaires Inc. is a trusted buyer and seller of fine diamonds and custom jewellery manufacturer. LB Diamantaires Inc. are members of the New York Diamond Dealer Club and an Authorized Diamond Dealer of the World Diamond Mark. www.lbdiamantaires.com

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Swarovski Jewellery Celebrates 125-year Anniversary Proving they Have Lasting Innovation One of the biggest game changers in jewellery recently has been the growth of the lab grown diamonds market. I admire Swarovski’s designs but especially their use of colour, as people love it and it gets attention. I also appreciate the particular colours they chose and the symbolism they bear to human innovation, given that lab created diamonds are a testament to human ingenuity. After all, we have managed to re-create one of the hardest substances Mother Nature ever created, in an environmentally conscious fashion as well! I think Swarovski’s color palette was an insightful way to differentiate their product offering from all the other manufacturing labs, and it will continue carrying forth the uniqueness and desirability of the brand. I do hope the public will appreciate the added value over the crystal jewellery as it is a different pricing category versus the traditional line. I would encourage the development of a couple of levels of exclusive product lines; one for the retailers that carry the brand, one for the Swarovski branded brick and mortar stores and another for the online store. In my years of experience in the industry, I’ve learned that brands need individual retailers in order to continue and sustain their popularity. We have previously seen market share drops of brands selling exclusively on their own versus partnering with independent retailers. On behalf of leaders in lab grown diamond technologies, we would like to welcome Swarovski to this exciting world!

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Daniel Wellington Opens First Canadian Store in Montréal Swedish watch and jewellery brand, Daniel Wellington, opened its first Canadian store with Cadillac Fairview at CF Carrefour Laval. The 654 square foot retail space was designed by Montréal-based LODA Design and built by prisma construction. The watch brand has commanded a loyal following in Canada for many years through retail partners and its own website. Now with its first foray in the Canadian market, Daniel Wellington is looking forward to meeting customers where they already are. Daniel Wellington’s Executive Director of the Americas, John Ehrnst, said the opening highlights the potential the brand sees in Canada and allows loyal Canadian customers to receive the same elevated brand experience available at the other hundreds of stores worldwide. “We are thrilled to be opening our first Canadian store in Québec,” said John Ehrnst, Executive Director for the Americas. “We can finally showcase our full product range to our existing customers in Canada and provide them with the full, elevated Daniel Wellington experience.” Daniel Wellington’s high quality-product, designed with precision in Sweden, allows customers to have a deeper appreciation for the design process when they can experience it first-hand. “The one thing you cannot do online is touch and feel the product. We’re excited to offer our very first offline customer experience in Canada,” said Ehrnst. Daniel Wellington strategically chose to open their first brick-and-mortar location at CF Carrefour Laval due to its incredible and elevated shopping experience. “We’re thrilled to partner with Daniel Wellington to welcome the iconic brand to Canada at CF Carrefour Laval,” said Sal Iacono, Executive Vice President of Operations, Cadillac Fairview. “At Cadillac Fairview we are dedicated to delivering an exceptional shopping experience for our guests and introducing first to market retailers like Daniel Wellington is an example of our ongoing commitment.” The store is open from 10:00 AM to 9:00 PM Monday through Friday, 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM Saturday, and 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM on Sunday. For more information about Daniel Wellington, please visit www.danielwellington.com/ca/.

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his year’s 92nd Academy Awards brought out the stars in full red carpet glamour. The gowns and tuxedos were a feast for the eyes but the jewellery was an even bigger show stopper. We’ve narrowed down the looks for you in our top 10 from the Oscars.

2. GRETA GERWIG IN BULGARI The “Little Women” Director impressed in a beautiful, rich green Dior gown with accented green-toned Bulgari necklace, earrings and ring (comprising more than 96 carats of emeralds and diamonds).

1. REGINA KING IN HARRY WINSTON The ever elegant Watchmen star looked radiant in a blush Versace gown with silver detailing on the bodice and a flowing train. She paired her look with nearly 60 combined carats of diamonds in Harry Winston pieces, which included the jaw-dropping Draperie diamond bracelet and diamond rings.

Bling 3. JANELLE MONÁE IN FOREVERMARK Singer Janelle Monáe opened the Oscars with Billy Porter but her red carpet look was a hard act to follow. She graced the carpet in a custom Ralph Lauren hooded gown studded with 160,000 Swarovski crystals. The stunning gown took 600 hours to complete but that’s not all, Janelle accessorized her gown with black reverse French manicure lined with tiny jewels, an incredible 18k white gold Lace of Light diamond choker (36.54 cts.) Diamond studs (6.36 cts.) and rings set with nearly 20 cts. of diamonds.

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4. ELTON JOHN The legend looked ever unique and glamorous in signature bejeweled tinted glasses, a deep purple satin jacket with a jewel lined collar and an impressive Theo Fennell rocket brooch. He certainly brought the wow factor and furthermore, he won Best Original Song for the second time in his career for “I’m Gonna Love Me Again” from Rocketman. “Wow, this doesn’t suck,” said co-writer Bernie Taupin as he and Sir Elton John stepped onstage to accept their Oscar.


6. ANTHONY RAMOS The Hamilton star made it onto a few “Best Dressed” lists this year. He wore a sleek Dolce & Gabbana suit on the red carpet but it was his oversized medieval-looking neck adornment that got most of the attention. The bold statement piece was encrusted with multi-coloured precious stones with Monogram type letters hanging near the front. Perhaps he borrowed it from a knight in shining armour but it worked! 5. SAOIRSE RONAN IN GUCCI The best actress, nominee for her role in Little Women wore a plunging avant-garde Gucci gown with black-and-white on top featuring a peplum detail at the waist and a periwinkle-coloured skirt. She paired the look with gorgeous Gucci high jewellery chandelier earrings with white gold, spinel and diamonds; as well as rings with white gold, rubellite, pink sapphires, diamonds and a pink tourmaline; and a white gold brooch featuring tsavorite and diamonds.

7. ZAZIE BEETZ IN BULGARI The Joker star joked that she was “sewn into” her black sequined twopiece Thom Browne set. The ensemble featured a strapless corset with fringed hem and slim-fit midi skirt. She accessorized her look with two Bulgari high jewellery necklaces including an emerald-accented “Divas’ Dream” choker, earrings and two rings, featured 120 carats worth of diamonds in total.

2020 8. BILLIE EILISH The singer, who confirmed she will be singing the theme song for the new James Bond movie, No Time to Die, made a bold statement on the red carpet in a head-totoe Chanel ensemble and fine jewellery. She paired her oversized Chanel suit with matching ribbon hairpiece and pin, brooches, earrings and chokers. In case you missed it, Billie Eilish likes everything Chanel. A lot.

9. GAL GADOT IN TIFFANY & CO. The Wonder Woman star looked like a princess in a Givenchy spring ’20 haute couture gown. Designed by Clare Waight Keller. She wore her Tiffany & Co. Clara platinum necklace overtop her flared lace mock-turtleneck. She also wore platinum Tiffany diamond earrings with more than 6 cts. t.w. of diamonds and a platinum ring with a rectangular modified brilliant diamond weighing more than 9 carats.

10. SCARLETT JOHANSSON IN FOREVERMARK Double nominee (for best actress and best supporting actress) looked glamorous and dripping in jewels in a custom shimmery silver satin Oscar de la Renta gown with a mesh bodice featuring draped fabric. She paired the stunning strapless gown with several pieces from Forevermark—including a pair of glittering drop diamond earrings by Anita Ko, which were designed and created for the occasion.

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Trends For 2020

Sylvia Tennant

Zaleska Jew I use sterling silver and gold-plated sterling silver in order to keep our jewellery as hypoallergenic as possible and under a $200 CAD price point. The collection is inspired by the Art Deco movement, ancient civilizations, my personal exploration of style, and the feminine ritual of adornment. Our stones are chosen intuitively and with respect to the overall curation of the collection. I really don’t design around trends but am constantly inspired by the women I’m surrounded by; they are extremely stylish. Layering pieces (necklaces and rings, for example) is a look I’ll definitely continue to play with in 2020. I design jewellery that is easy to wear and won’t catch on clothing (I wear a lot of vintage so this design element is really important to me). This year’s collection will introduce green quartz, turquoise, and ruby to the mix and I’m thrilled to be using a colourful palette this year. I design things that I would wear and generally the pieces that resonate with people I will keep in the collection. We respond to the trends that our customers show us, as opposed to trying to set or predict them, so we’re very fluid that way.

Bio // While studying fine arts at the University of Victoria, Sylvia would often shop for jewellery but rarely found rings that fit her size-9 fingers; then an inspiring sculpture class led her to create wire-wrapped rings with vintage brooches. Later Sylvia taught high school art while exploring jewellery design as a business. A passion for gemstones runs in the family, as does a spiritual connection to their metaphysical properties. Sylvia’s collections are inspired by her studies of sacred sites around the world, powerful women in history, goddesses, ancient civilizations and centuries-old adornments. Zaleska Jewelry in handmade by Sylvia and her talented team of silver and goldsmiths in Vancouver, B.C. and Bali, Indonesia. @zaleskajewelry – www.zaleska.ca

Photo: Victoria Black

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welry “Our stones are chosen intuitively and with respect to the overall curation of the collection. I really don’t design around trends but am constantly inspired by the women I’m surrounded by; they are extremely stylish.”

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Dana McLaven

Fine Jewellery

Let’s talk bridal since that is the main focus of my business! I love to be a part of this process and it is the biggest purchase a man will make alone. I love being along for this exciting ride and guiding people along the way. In terms of the setting, the Halo was extremely strong in 2019 and will continue to be for 2020 with all diamond shapes. It creates a unique look as well as a larger look with a slightly smaller diamond. A true win win. We are seeing a huge resurgence back to the classic Solitaire. Truly a timeless style. A setting with a thin shank/band gives the illusion of a larger diamond almost floating on the finger.

Bio // After working in sporting goods at Nike, Adidas and Champion for 14 years Dana came to the industry through a close friend. The transition from technical sporting apparel to diamonds was fun and Dana first trained with her friend, then later pursued courses through GIA. Dana has been designing for 13 years. Her love of jewellery and design makes working in the industry a perfect fit, along with working with people “it’s one of the best parts of my job!”

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The Round Brilliant of course remains the number one choice but a very close second is OVAL. Huge for 2019 and moving into 2020. Not far behind are the other fancy shapes like the Cushion and Emerald. Again creating a stunning ring but a bit more unique. In terms of metals, white gold and platinum are of course the most chosen but we love seeing interest in both rose and yellow gold for engagement rings. Again adding a more unique and special aspect to the ring. In terms of wedding bands, the most classic choice has always been the matching shank/band to the engagement ring. Matching metals and diamond setting are of course a classic way to go. But more clients today are looking for a more unique and off the beaten path look. By this I mean choosing a wedding band that does not match the engagement ring. It can be a different type of diamond setting or ring style altogether. Clients love it when I show rings that don’t match the engagement ring but add a very fun unique look to their set. For down the road, after a few years of being married, it does not have to stop there! (Sorry boys!) A fun way of updating or making a wedding set of a few years more fun and modern is to add a 3rd or sometimes 4th band to create a stacking collection. It can be for an anniversary, birthday, promotion or a push present, adding some pink or blue coloured stones.

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Adding different diamond setting styles, metal textures or metal colours help create your own unique stack. Don’t match them, the more mismatched and eclectic, the more fun! Stack is the new black. Truly, in bridal, there is no right or wrong way to go about it. As I tell my clients, when picking a diamond or a wedding band it is all about what you love and making your set the most YOU you can make it. Start with two you love, have fun with it! Add onto it over the years and make it into what represents you the most. Instagram: @DMfinjewellery Facebook: /danamclavenfinejewellery

“More clients today are looking for a more unique and off the beaten path look. By this I mean choosing a wedding band that does not match the engagement ring. It can be a different type of diamond setting or ring style altogether. Clients love it when I show rings that don’t match the engagement ring but add a very fun unique look to their set.

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A dynamic shape formed by two lines meeting at a point. V stands for many things.

www.vessotdesign.com

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Claire Lives and Works in Montreal and Enjoys a Rich Cultural Presence and Appreciation for the International Influence of the City’s Thriving Fashion and Arts Scene.

Bio // Designing jewellery from her studio in Montreal, Claire’s specialty is brand design. Behind the scenes, she’s created numerous Collections in partnership with both domestic and international manufacturers. Earning 20 Industry Design Awards along the way, Vessot is perhaps best known for her more visible work as former Lead and Senior Designer for ELLE jewelry. Claire’s own online boutique features her sterling silver designer’s choices along with a select range of gold essentials with a focus on things she personally endorses such as Italian hoops and light-hearted spreadable rings. Claire’s work evokes a unique individual style and reflects her motto: empowerment, kindness, strength and confidence.

2020 is all about energy. Go within and come up bright and shining. The focus for the year ahead features sterling silver design with easy touches of simple silhouettes. WGSN predictions indicate the rise in popularity of Silver Jewellery. Colours- think spicy cantaloupe, sandstone, melding without a pause into the rich and satisfying deeper earth-toned SS mellow yellows. Pantone’s Autumn/Winter 2020/21 palette as interpreted for my work includes transitions landing on a magnetic, rich Magenta Purple hue for gemstones. The vision includes clever and comfortable hoops with something a little extra (what extra? See next sentence!). This classic is always going to be the go-to basic, but we’re seeing variations and a shift towards oversized, over the top styles designed to extend from “business cool” to “cocktail wild.” Men are on the radar and not just the looks we’ve all been seeing. I’m dreaming about blues along with more unusual, sculpted silhouettes. Men’s jewellery has lost its traditional boundaries. We’ve all seen long chains, stacking, chunky curb links, Y-Necks, to delicate pearls, layering and more. It’s about time! I think 2020 is the year for designers to punch it out of the ring and define our own point of view. It’s not so much about what the piece is, as the importance of how one wears it. So let’s make it about personal style. Lab diamond popularity is offering ethical options for engagement ring design that meet the Millennials’ budget and fits the demand for large stone WOW presence. I’m thinking the bands should rest with effortless ease and never look like they were contoured to fit: but they will. We’ve seen some very unusual band mixes happening for a while now, with irregular edged settings, mixed with beaded bands, mixed stones, shapes and sizes. Easy, determined and intentional.

Chokers are still important for Spring 2020, continuing with the lighter layering styles that are everywhere. This newer shift indicates a more substantial, fitted form, often with embellishments. I’ve developed a series of motifs that will be worked into some exciting variations to slip right into this look with a natural feel. Longer and more versatile chains that slide from lariat or bolo, to chokers are showing up this year. WGSN predicts an exciting revival of bold jewellery accessories with an emphasis on earrings and necklaces to reflect the ‘Above the Keyboard Dressing’ movement that’s emerging from working remote communications-based business attire. Sweatpants and the well dressed visible upper body Skype or Video conferencing look that we’ve all joked about is a ‘thing’ now. Amazing! I feel it’s time for jewellery to reflect the wearer in all their moods and phases. I hope to create gorgeous designs that express joy and excitement intended for day to day wear while allowing for self-expression. All that in an unexpected, easy to manage reflective way. My love of tattoo’s and jewellery pictured together expresses where uniqueness, personal style and the strength to “commit to it all” comes together. Trends aren’t always as important as trend movements. It’s how we express and interpret the things that inspire us that counts. There is much creative fun to be had by choosing the most relatable inspirations, from whatever our sources are, and spinning them into something fresh. The best things often develop by heading in the opposite direction of what’s intended, believing in it and finding something unexpected.

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Porana

Everyday Essentials of

Fine Jewellery

Bio // Ladawan is the second generation to run a family jewellery business. The original brand SIAMWELL was founded since 1983 by her parents and was where she began to learn her craft. With expertise jewellery knowledge from her family business coupled with a background as an Interior Designer plus an MBA degree from Cleveland State University, USA, Ladawan created her own jewellery brand, PORANA, which delivers unique simplicity for everyday wear.

Personalized your own treasures

Her Interior Design background encouraged her to design jewellery pieces with a concept and storytelling approach along with versatility and functionality. This can be observed in her WEAVE and PASINH colown woven style. lections that won the Design Excellence Award in Denmark.

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An interior designer has tuned her Thai aesthetic sense into creating crafted jewellery items to scoop the recent Demark Design Excellence Award.

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PA SINH Our Pa Sinh collection is inspired from traditional Thai skirt, call Pa Sinh. The Sinh is made of silk, woven in ornate motifs with delicate embroidery. They come in different textures and designs and are usually created in rural areas by ethnic groups. From the delicate beauty of Pa Sinh, we simplified the pattern and created 3 stacking rings which users have a choice to wear in various mixtures. Choices of two tone colours, multi-color gemstones (Navaratna) and Bluish tone (Kram Sakon), we have created and designed jewellery inspired by Thai culture in a modern way

Personalized your own treasures Personalized Personalized your your own own treasures treasures

Demark (Design Excellence award Winner 2019) Metal: 14k solid gold (white gold, rose gold, yellow gold) Also, can do 18k gold and platinum 950 Diamond quality: Natural Diamond, VS clarity, G color Natural Gemstones: Ruby, Emerald/Green Agate, Yellow Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Moonstone, Zircon, Cat’s eye, Garnet

WEAVE Thai Woven Basketry is our concept for this collection. Since ancient times Thai people have used their creative talents to produce a wide range of handicrafts for use in daily life. Using slanted weave lines to create a ring setting form, we can introduce simple geometric forms and feature a unique pattern of baguette diamonds and square shapes with round diamonds (black and white) which can stack with other rings in the collection to create your own woven pattern style. (Design Excellence award Winner 2019) Metal: 14k solid gold (white gold, rose gold, yellow gold) Also, can do 18k gold and platinum 950 Diamond quality: Natural Diamond, VS clarity, G color Black diamond quality: AAA

แหวน นพเ๙า Navaratna ring

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Christine Dwane Jewellery

Bio // Christine is a Quebec based designer who has established her modus operandi on a quest for excellence and the importance of innovation. With this foundation in mind, working from her studio, she builds close collaborations with her customers in order to create personalized and memorable pieces. Graduating head of her class at Ecole de Joaillerie et des Métaux D’Art de Montreal lead to an apprenticeship under the master Swiss-German jeweller, Robert Ackermann, a career changing experience. Keen to share and advance her art and knowledge in the sciences of metallurgy and gemmology, Christine teaches at École de Joaillerie de Montréal. As Christine’s company continues to evolve, her designs are making their homes in galleries and boutiques in Montreal, Ottawa, Toronto and beyond.

aluminium 925 silver, 18K gold, pink sapphires

earrings: lab grown ruby 18K yellow gold

bracelet: quartz druzy 925 silver

diamonds titanium

ring: lab grown ruby 18K yellow gold

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TRENDS IN MONTREAL CUSTOM MADE JEWELLERY The silent revolution of the 60 in Quebec has marked a change in relationship to the church by the baby boomers and their children, leading to a high percentage of non-traditional marriage. However, while couples are creating their own rituals to celebrate their relationship, commitment rings remain an important part of these special occasions. Without a doubt, designing personalised one of a kind commitment rings fits the bill perfectly!

New and innovative designs are always appreciated. This puzzle ring is fun concept and not often seen in the traditional market. It adds a whimsical playfulness as well as a very symbolic aspect of the two parts coming together as one. The swirls are geometrically proportioned based on a Buddhist dream flag. Nothing could feel more like a piece that is truly one in a billion, custom fit to the clients’ own values and life experience.

A new interest for alternative materials opens the door for new trends and design possibilities unique rings.

These are interesting times; new materials, unique designs, suited for new self-made rites of passage. People are finding their own voice and singing to the beat of their own drum. So many new possibilities open as a particular kind of individualism is setting in in our western society. Fashion is not the same as it once was, there is not one style that people are following and wearing. Anything goes so why should it be so for jewellery too!

Take, for example, a men’s titanium commitment ring with carbon fibre and handmade 18k white gold bolts. Men love the implied association with its habitual use in the high tech aerospace equipment. It is a modern, somewhat edgy look; clean, strong yet sophisticated.

Below are a pair of titanium bands with the personalised inlays perfectly highlighted in a custom 20k green gold. The black stone used for the inlays was of a special significance when the couple found it on a beach when on a particularly meaningful trip together.

titanium, 925 silver diamond

With increasing resourcefulness in our society, the public is becoming well versed with reusing, recycling and now… upcycling. We are making custom pieces from mom and grandma’s gifted jewellery. It is a celebration of finding your own voice and expression in your jewellery while keeping the sentimentality of the metal used from a family heirloom. These stacked rings are set with stones from rings passed down along the matrilineal line. A gift a client made to herself marking a rite of passage, reaching a period of success in her life. brooch: 18K gold, titanium fresh water pearl

In this coil ring made of forged titanium and sterling silver is set an oval colourless sapphire, an interesting alternative to a diamond. Sapphire is considered to be the most durable gem on the market so it would make the statement “a sapphire is forever” more true than it is for diamond.

925 silver with plated resin Originally a tension setting, this engagement ring reuses the titanium and pink gold band but adds a cluster of diamonds securely set in matching pink gold prongs. Although the couple never married, this upgrade was marking the renewal of their 10year commitment to each other.

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George &

Edith

Ready Mounts

Bio // Entrepreneurs since as far back as the 19030’s, Edith and George Myslicki, the owners and operators of Ready Mounts Inc. are no strangers to producing high quality custom jewellery. Nearly 90 years ago, Edith’s grandparents and her great uncle were already custom jewellers in Europe travelling to the Capitakof Europe introducing a new and exciting concept in custom jewellery to a captive retail market who were excited to reveal their new-found concepts in jewellery. Her great uncle was also already a custom jeweller for the European market which proved to be the beginnings of a life long family business still in existence today in Canada. After the war, Edith’s uncle established a jewellery manufacturing company which was eventually taken over by Communists during the Hungarian Revolution. After that; Edith’s parents came to Canada and her father started his independent business. Edith grew up around the jewellery industry and over the years she learned about production of fine jewellery. Her father, her teacher, did it all! From casting to grinding to polishing to completion, he was “the jeweller” in Toronto - the man to whom many new and established jewellers would come to learn about their trade in order to refine and hone their skills. Back then, there were no courses offered, you learned your skill as an apprentice. While Edith’s father was growing the business, Edith attended Ryerson University where she studied Design. While at Ryerson, Edith met her future husband George, who was studying Engineering. The two married and the rest is history. After her studies Edith joined the family jewellery business and George, who was working as an engineer with the government but showed great interest and talent in the jewellery business, joined soon after. The business, which eventually spun off and morphed into what is today another successful venture known as Ready Mounts Inc. opened its doors in 1985. From humble beginnings as a casting house, with limited funding and two employees (Edith and George!) they grew the business step by step - casting, then mounts and then to what it is today, A complete one-stop shopping experience, taking design from concept to a finished, beautiful, top of the line product, ready to sell. Edith and George work at Ready Mounts daily to ensure quality and to keep the commitment of perfection to their customers.

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These days you are seeing pieces from one extreme to the other. Either very detailed highend or organic free form that doesn’t have that polished look. But it seems that’s what the young public wants. Organic food, organic jewellery. They also want non-conflict.

Plus people are substituting now even for engagement rings, with semi precious stones instead of a diamond centre. People will do Morganite, which is that peachy colour. All kinds of different cuts of it. Everybody is sick of the “Here’s your stone, halo, the lady Diana around it.” The predictable jewellery that everybody has.

RECYCLED MATERIALS We find that more and more young people are asking for recycled metals and materials and certified Canadian gold. As companies are marketing everything natural and organic it’s reached our industry as well. It’s a big part of decision making these days and we’re going to see more and more of that in this coming year. Organic jewellery is not always predictable. There’s not as much regularity to the pieces. It’s free-form, off-set and not symmetrical. New jewellery combines different shapes as well as the use of semi-precious stones. These are all new to the market and doing very well. Before, most people were requesting diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, rubies, now you’re getting Morganites and you’re going to see a lot of young designers substituting diamonds for white Saphire. Also designers are using a lot of old cuts and rose Cuts. They’re using slice diamonds. It’s also part of a more natural and organic look. Another big thing now is salt and pepper diamonds. They’re recycling diamonds that you could never sell before because of the flaws in them considered as low quality diamonds. Somebody was a genius and named it “salt and pepper.”

CHANGING FACE OF GOLD At one period it was a lot of white gold. In the last year or two yellow’s are coming back. Even for engagement rings. All rose gold is big. We also do green gold. We’ve been seeing new stones, new colours of gold and a lot of other metals such as Palladium and Palladian mixes. Also rainbow mixes where, like a rainbow band where you will see a mix of about 5 different colours of Saphires in one band. We think the rainbow bands will be big in 2020. We also think coloured stones will be bigger and alternative designs will continue. For years we’ve seen diamonds, diamonds, diamonds now we’re seeing more and more creativity. Young designers are willing to try new things, they’re not going to follow what was. There are so many things available today. Whatever your imagination, the sky’s the limit. As for finishes, everything doesn’t have to be shiny anymore. Designers are incorporating textures and different patinas into pieces. They are not scared to experiment. They are not thinking, “are they going to like that, do you think it will sell?” Designers are setting the trends. LAYERING

You’re seeing things that you never thought were going to be used. People are ready for something unique.

Layering is big this year and will continue into next. The trend is delicate, dainty and personalized. Personalized pieces are a very big seller. Engravable is popular. Anything personal is very big again and we get a lot of requests for that.

NEW IS IN Lab grown diamonds are a big trend. When we went to the Vegas Show a few years ago there was one exhibitor selling lab-grown and it was a dead booth. Nobody even looked at it. We went again last year and there was a whole pavilion and it was busy. So that has really changed. People are more open to substitutes now.

We’re seeing an interesting Trend in jewellery. There’s more variety. It’s more exciting and we don’t think it’s going out of style. There’s still tons of the regular run of the mill stuff that everybody Markets. Your Tiffany Six claw setting done by the millions all over the world. But the new direction is more imaginative and that’s kind of exciting.

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Sponsor Content

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For over 30 years, United PMR, Inc. is one of the world’s largest global supplier of master alloys for the manufacturing of Gold, Silver, Platinum & Palladium jewelry. Innovation has always been at the core of United PMR’s product division developing renowned formulas for gold, silver, platinum and palladium jewelry. Recognized for their commitment to the environment and meticulous implementation of compliance procedures to ensure responsible sourcing, United PMR, Inc. is proud to service tens of thousands of customers worldwide.

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United PMR, Inc.’s unique corporate structure combines refining services and innovative jewelry products. This combination of products and services and their financial strength and stability are just two of the reasons they are able to navigate through shifting market conditions as well as industry trends since 1988. Their philosophy is simple, their success can only come from your success. They continue to strive to make your company more productive with improved products and innovative services. The combination of their innovative master alloys, expertise in refining, and over 30 years of industry experience, it’s no wonder their customers refer to them as “Simply the Best.”


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Showroom Ideas

Styling

YOUR SHOWROOM

Styling your showroom can make a huge difference in the comfort and overall experience of your clients. From the colour scheme to the decor to the scent to the amenities that you provide, every Iittle detail counts.

Keep clients entertained with elegantly selected magazines and books. Like this Rolex impossible collection selected by specialist Fabienne Reybaud, each of the exceptional Rolex watch models in this volume showcase the most valuable and technically innovative pieces the watchmaker has produced. Rolex: The Impossible Collection InsideHook.com $1,210.00 publisher: Assouline Assouline.com @assouline facebook: /AssoulinePublishing

Adding a gentle scent to your location can relax the mood, humidify your work environment and add a special touch to your private viewing or consultation rooms. Instead of adding the usual 3-5 drops add just 1-2, the scent will be barely noticeable but can make a difference in someone’s day, like this ultrasonic disc diffuser ideal for medium sized rooms. Diffusers www.lecomptoiraroma.co

Origami Coffee Table $599.00 www.westelm.ca

“The most comprehensive and far-reaching history of the luxury watch brand ever written.”

Extra amenities at your location can make a huge difference to your clients. Whether you offer clients coffee, tea, water, comfortable seating, accessible bathrooms, special reading materials or a beautiful video, the little “extras” that you provide make a big difference in the experience of your clients. Explore your space too see where you can add those special touches.

Lighting in most show rooms is bright and inviting so that clients can easily view the sparkle of the glorious diamonds they are exploring to buy. Chose lighting carefully as it sets the mood and tone of the experience at your location. Softer lighting is relaxing and places people at ease while bright lighting is welcoming and invites one to look, touch and inspect the merchandise.

Nespresso Vertuo Coffee and Espresso Machine by Breville 250.00 www.amazon.ca

One Light Floor Lamp $139.99 www.royallighting.com

KINSEY 100% leather 3-seater sofa $1,599.00 www.structube.com

Comfortable seating at your location is a wonderful way to make guests feel welcome. If they want to sit, that means they want to stay and that’s a great thing! Seating in your viewing rooms or even in your showroom invites people to take their time when they are making important decisions. Chose comfortable, modern and luxurious seating and don’t be afraid to make bold statements as seating is part of your overall decor.

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Fresh flowers, plants and greenery can add much needed life to your space and makes a huge statement to anybody walking in through the doors. It gives a welcome and refreshing vibe that let’s people know they are entering a room where the little details have been taken care of. White Double Spike Orchid Planter $115.00 flowercompany.ca



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Call CJB 416-787-3472

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For more on how advertise in thein classifi ed section of Canadian Jeweller please A D Vmagazine Emagazine RT Iplease Scontact: I contact: N GOlivier Forinformation more information ontohow to advertise the classifi ed section of Canadian Jeweller Edite Felicio Martins(416)-203-7900 (416) 203-7900ext. ext. 6107 6112or oremail e-mailolivier@thergmgroup.net edite@thergmgroup.net.

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www.bamiyansilver.ca

Awards of Excellence

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CANADIAN SHOW ISSUE 2018

JCK ISSUE 2017 CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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Last Word

Cartier

PANTHÈRE DE CARTIER The panther, the symbolic animal of Cartier, made its first appearance in the Maison’s collections in 1914. Louis Cartier was the first to tame the mythic animal, and his colleague Jeanne Toussaint turned it into a legend. The panther can be fierce, playful, or lovable, displaying all the facets of its liberated personality from one collection to the next.

PANTHÈRE DE CARTIER BRACELET White gold, emeralds, onyx, diamonds $294,000

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