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The independent voice for the industry since 1879

JUNE/JULY 2015

Canadian Jeweller Magazine DESIGNER Jenna Iannelli makes a statement with her jewellery PROFILE

EXCLUSIVE FROM JVC Your 2014 annual crime report

EN FRANÇAIS

L’École de Joiallerie de Montréal: un atelier devenu une école

Brett Halliday Michael Hill

E-COMMERCE The pros and cons of online retailing

GLITTERING DECEPTION

Synthetic diamonds: opportunity or threat?

When opportunity speaks

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416-928-0707

BULLIONMART.CA

REFINING CHARGES ARE AS LOW AS 99.40% RETURN OR C $299.00 FLAT FEE PER KILO PURE WEIGHT AFTER ASSAYING MINIMUM WEIGHT CONDITIONS APPLY

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Why Stuller For Bridal?

Style# 121988

Shop the most extensive selection of semi-mount engagement rings in the industry. Set it with one of our serialized Red Box Diamonds速 for a truly brilliant finish. Visit Stuller.com/bridal today.

s tul ler.com

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800 877 7777

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STERLING SILVER SKULL PENDANT on bulletproof kevlar cord, with accents in sterling silver and Mokume Gane. STERLING SILVER BRACELET, inlaid with 10,000 year-old fossil Woolly Mammoth tooth, and clasp set with diamond. BEADED BRACELET, with sterling silver skulls, black onyx and centerpiece in fossil walrus tusk. For information, contact Steve Turac l 514.771.7469 l steve@turacluxury.com

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W I L L I A M H E N R Y. C O M

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Georgia May Jagger

CONTACT: 1 866 461 9862 INFO@THOMASSABO.CA

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THE TIMELESS EXPANSE ...OF THE SURGING OCEAN FILLS THE SPIRIT WITH THE FREEDOM TO GO IN SEARCH OF THE HIDDEN TREASURES OF LIFE.

KAR MA

BEADS

WWW.THOMASSABO.COM

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JUNE/JULY 2015

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

Canadian Jeweller Magazine ESTA BLISHED 1879

Vol. 136 / No. 04

Jean-Christophe Bedos President & CEO, Maison Birks

Every company, brand and organization has a leader. A fearless leader, if you will. So it's no wonder that Maison Birks, one of the world's most renowned diamond and jewellery names, chose to place Jean-Christophe Bédos at its helm more than four years ago. Smart, passionate and intrepid, Bédos has taken the brand on a journey toward what we know today as a top-notch Canadian jeweller.

OLI V IER FELICIO I R I N A LY T C H A K SCOT T JOR DA N

Publisher / olivier@canadianjeweller.com Managing Editor / irina@canadianjeweller.com Art Director / scott@rivegauchemedia.com

KAITLIN YEP

Junior Designer / kaitlin@rivegauchemedia.com

CONTRIBUTORS

Kristin A. Aldridge, Véronique Dubé, Mike Ford, Sarah B. Hood, Larry Johnson, Janet Lamont, Liza Marley, Duncan Parker, Kuldip Rupra, Todd Wasylyshyn

Editorial Board

SALES EDITE M A RTINS

Advertising Sales tel: 416-203-7900 x6128 / email: edite@canadianjeweller.com

Jean-Christophe Bédos Birks, President & CEO Haigo Derian L’Oro Jewellery

HEAD OFFICE

1235 Bay Street, Suite 400, Toronto, Ontario M5R 3K4 tel: 416-203-7900 fax: 416-703-6392

Gino DeVuono Movado Group of Canada Andrea Hopson Luxury Retail Executive Paul Mcfarlane Chanel Canada

MELANIE SETH

Controller & Operations / melanie@rivegauchemedia.com

LUC Y HOLDEN

General Customer Care Manager / lucy@thergmgroup.net

MONTREAL OFFICE

230-2451 Chemin Lucerne, Montreal, QC H3R 2K5 tel: 514-381-5196 fax: 514-381-6223

Marco Miserendino Bijouterie Italienne P.M. Inc. Phyllis Richard Jewellers Vigilance Canada Inc. Mano Rupra TimeRevolution.com Beth Saunders Canadian Jewellery Group Sevan Titizian G.C. International Ltd.

SUBSCRIPTION RATES Canada — one year, $50; two years, $85; three years $120. United States — one year, US$205. Foreign — one year US$205 (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide issues.) plus applicable taxes. Single copies — $25; Buyers’ Guide $40. Bulk rate (Canada only, for six or more subscriptions) — $17.50 per subscription per year.

Steve Turac Turac Luxury Group Inc.

CHANGE OF ADDRESS email: circulation@canadianjeweller.com telephone: 416-203-7900 fax: 416-703-6392 or send your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller 1235 Bay St., Suite 400, Toronto, ON. M5R 3K4

Moniruz Zaman The Bullion Mart Inc.

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CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

PUBLISHED BY THE RGM GROUP Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume responsibility for the contents of any advertisement; any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or in part, without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller and its affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian Jeweller. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 1235 Bay St., Ste. 400, Toronto, ON Canada M5R 3K4.

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La magie d’une Inspiration

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26

Departments

42

Contents 14 EDITOR’S LET TER 16 LET TER FROM THE BOARD 18 CONTRIBUTORS / BEHIND THE SCENES

30

20 WHAT'S ON

92 SHOWCASE / MARKETPL ACE

22 PRODUCT SHOWCASE

96 ST YLE COUNCIL Make sense of summer

26 STAR WATCH Red carpet beauties and Met Gala mavens

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98 L AST WORD Bvlgari: Sensual serpent

30 FOR THE RECORD News, trends and events 36 CJ GALLERY SMART Jewellery Show coverage; Swarovski's Fall/Winter preview; sneak peek into VicenzaOro Dubai 42 ON THE COVER: MICHAEL HILL JEWELLERS Brett Halliday brings Michael Hill's core message of love to Canada

CJ en français 52 LES NOUVELLES 56 L’ÉCOLE DE JOAILLERIE DE MONTRÉAL : UN ATELIER DEVENU UNE ÉCOLE

by Irina Lytchak June/July 2015 cover photographed by Mike Ford

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CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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FIJ2734 FIJ2734/W

CANADIAN JEWELLERY EXPOS 2015 TORONTO • BOOTH # 400

August 9, 10, 11 • NEW LOCATION • The International Convention Centre, Hall 5

EDMONTON • BOOTH # 103 August 16, 17, 18 Shaw Conference Centre

• •

EXPO PRESTIGE 2015

MONTREAL • BOOTH # 527 I AM M A D E IN CANADA

Jewellery designed and hand crafted in Canada

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August 23, 24, 25 Palais de congrès de Montreal

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72

62

Features & Columns

76

68

Contents 60 FEATURE: EXCLUSIVE FROM GIA How does light affect the way my diamonds look by Kristin A. Aldridge

62 FEATURE: SYNTHETIC DIAMONDS Glittering deception - Are synthetic diamonds an opportunity or threat? by Sarah B. Hood

68 FEATURE: E-COMMERCE The pros and cons of online retailing by Liza Marley

72 DESIGNER PROFILE: VALENTINE ROUGE How Jenna Iannelli transformed her dream of jewellery making into reality by Irina Lytchak

76 COMPANY PROFILE: NOVA DIAMONDS Michael Sapir continues to bring the highest standard of quality and design to the Canadian jewellery industry by Irina Lytchak

80 GEMS & GEMMOLOGY Emeralds: the "cool" gems by Duncan Parker

82 KEEPING TIME Dawn of the smartwatch by Kuldip Rupra

84 ON DISPL AY Q & A special by Larry Johnson

86 RETAIL COLUMN Stand up for your selections! by Todd Wasylyshyn

88 JVC 2014 ANNUAL CRIME REPORT by Janet Lamont

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25

Best Bargains

CELEBRATING

YEARS

IN THE SHOW BUSINESS

Join us in celebrating 25 years in the jewellery industry! Thank you for your loyalty and support! Enjoy special discounts and free gifts with purchase at our booths in CJ Expos Toronto and Edmonton and at Expo Prestige Montreal during the month of August. Call or email for more information.

Package 331: Sterling Silver Genuine Gemstone

Earrings set with 10mm (approx 6cts) a. Amethyst b. Green Amethyst c. Lemon Quartz

Package 725: 14kt Gold Fresh Water Pearl and

Package 906: Sterling Silver 7x5mm Genuine

Diamond Pendants.

Gemstone Earrings (approx 1.5cts of gems). c. Smokey Quartz, d. Peridot, e. Rutilated Quartz, f. Blue Topaz, g. Garnet, h. Amethyst c.

d.

f.

Package 702: 10/14kt. Gold Nose Pins, set with 2mm Pink, white, & Blue Sapphire, Ruby, Tsavorite etc.

g.

12 months Genuine Gemstone Earrings. All 12 pairs for $168 (Your choice $15/pr.) Package 722: 10kt Y/W. Gold 5mm 12 months Genuine Gemstone Earrings. All 12 pairs for $270 (Your choice $30/pr.)

h.

All 6 pairs $40 (Your choice of any Earrings $7.50/pr.) (available in other gemstones)

Your choice $15/pc.

Your choice $15/pr.

e.

Package 706: 10/14kt Y/W. Gold 3mm -

Package 435: 10kt.Y/W. Heavy Gold claw setting 8x6mm Earrings, set with Genuine Gemstone (2-3cts/ Pr. and Diamond 0.02ct) a. Amethyst, b. Aquamarine, c. Blue Topaz, d. Citrine, e. Emerald,f. Garnet, g. Opal, h. Peridot, i. Ruby, j. Tanzanite, k.Sapphire a. b. c. d.

Package 940: 10kt. Gold Genuine Gemstone

Bracelets, 13 (6x4mm) 5-6cts & 13 Diamonds 0.06 cts: a. Emerald, b. Sapphire, c. Tanzanite, d. Ruby

Package 910: 14kt Y/W. Gold Genuine South Sea Pearl Earrings (9-10mm pearls) set with 0.10-0.15cts Diamonds.

a. e.

f.

g.

i.

j.

k.

h.

b. c. d.

All 6 Nose Pins for $75 (as low as $12.50/ea.)

Package 898: 14kt. Gold Genuine Gemstone Earrings (available in W/Y Gold). c. Mystic Topaz 11cts, d. Blue Topaz 9cts, e. Amethyst 11 cts. c.

e.

Your choice Semi precious: $100/pr. Precious: $125/pr.

Your choice of any: $450/ea.

Package 908: 14kt Y/W. Gold Genuine Multi-colour Gemstones (Aquamarine, Green Amethyst, Lemon Quartz, Amethyst and Citrine) Chandelier Earrings. Set with over 20cts of Gemstones. a. Centre Stone – Green Amethyst, b. Centre Stone – Lemon Quartz

Package 891: 10kt. Gold Rings, set with Genuine

a.

b.

Gemstone & 2 Diamonds: a. Sapphire, b. Emerald, c. Ruby, d. Citrine, e. Garnet, f. Opal

a.

Your choice $200/pr. (Available in White/Black Pearls)

Package 457: 10kt. Y/W. Gold 6x4mm Genuine

Gemstone and Diamond Rings, set with 0.60 cts of Gemstone and 0.05cts of Diamonds. a. Ruby, b. Sapphire, c. Emerald

d. a.

d. b.

b.

c.

e. c. f.

Your choice $150/pr.

Your Choice $225/pr.

Please Visit us at the following Shows 2015

SHOW

DATE

BOOTH

VENUE

1. New York

Jul 26-28/15

TBA

Javits Convention Center

2. Toronto

Aug 09-11/15

TBA

The International Centre - Hall 5

3. Montreal

Aug 23-25/15

218

Expo Prestige, Palais des Congres

4. Bangkok

Sep 10-14/15

G10

The Impact Challenger

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All 6 Rings for $540 (Your Choice $100/ea.)

Your choice $150/ea.

(also available in other gemstones)

*We use AGTA classification “F” Rubies. YOUR SATISFACTION IS GUARANTEED Offer is valid while quantities last. ORDER NOW! Please order by package NO’S.

Best Bargains 21 Dundas SQ., Suite 306 Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 CANADA Tel: 416-214-2582 Fax: 416-214-4626

For more Products visit our website at

www.bbjw.com info@bbjw.com 1(800) 661- 4871

2015-05-26 10:24 AM


Editor’s Letter

Seize the moment Irina Lytchak, Managing Editor

I CHOSE “WHEN OPPORTUNITY SPEAKS” AS THE TITLE of this issue’s cover story (page 42) because Michael Hill is a perfect example of a retailer that took an opportunity to plant roots in an unfamiliar market and succeeded with a willingness to persevere. Over a decade later and we are seeing the results — Michael Hill stores are opening up in major cities across Canada at an increasing rate. Hearing stories like this one continues to inspire me on a regular basis. So many of you are willing to go the extra mile when it comes to staying current and competitive. I see jewellers that continue to produce innovative merchandise and product of the highest quality and this is exactly what will help solidify Canada’s reputation as a top player in the global market. To follow suit, we want to continue to offer you the tools that will help strengthen your business. On page 68, you will find a feature about the power of e-commerce by Liza Marley. Have a read to see what other members of the industry are doing to succeed when it comes to online retailing and learn how you can perfect your own online business. On page 60, take a look at an exclusive feature on the relationship between diamonds and light by Kristin A. Aldridge exclusively from one of our biggest supporters, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). For more on diamonds, turn to page 62 to read Sarah B. Hood’s investigative story on synthetic diamonds and what kind of approach others have when it comes to working with them. Finally, you can find a myriad of topics of interest written by our devoted columnists including Todd Wasylyshyn, Duncan Parker, and Larry Johnson starting on page 80. By the time this issue lands on your store shelf or office desk, many of you will be back from the madness that is JCK Las Vegas. I wish all of you success at this year’s largest show and hope to see those I missed in Las Vegas during one of our Canadian shows this coming August. CJ

Photograph by Jacqueline Hornyak

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INDULGE IN THE MAJESTY OF REIGN BY PAJ

FEATURING FLUTTERING DIAMONDLITE CUBIC ZIRCONIA FOR ENDLESS EYE CATCHING SPARKLE reign@paj.ca

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Gold: Can we afford not to buy it? Moniruz Zaman, President & CEO Bullion Mart

Letter from the Board

GOLD IS AN ASSET THAT IS BOTH A COMMODITY and a financial instrument at the same time. Unlike other commodities or financial assets, the value and importance of gold have survived over thousands of years. The effects of global economic growth, the weakened dollar, the credit crunch, and the recent creation of enormous funds, all influence the gold market. Put them together and they add up to potential profits that gold investors have never before dreamed of. Today, like most commodities, the price of gold is driven by supply and demand, including demand for speculation. However, unlike most other commodities, saving and disposal play a larger role in affecting its price than its consumption. Most of the gold ever mined still exists in accessible form, such as bullion and mass-produced jewellery, with little value over its fine weight — and is thus potentially able to come back onto the gold market for the right price. According to the World Gold Council, the annual mine production of gold over the last few years has totalled close to 2,500 tonnes. About 80 per cent goes into jewellery or industrial/dental production, and only 20 per cent goes to retail investors and exchange-traded gold funds. The following are a few of the many influencing factors that drive the gold market in different directions and play a pivotal role in the world economy.

Gold as a safe haven asset A safe haven protects investors against a possible catastrophe. That’s why many investors buy gold. Much casual discussion on gold (and indeed other assets) alleges that they are “safe havens” for investors in times of stress.

Central banks At the end of 2004, central banks and official organizations held 19 per cent of all above-ground gold as official gold reserves.

Jewellery and industrial demand Jewellery consistently accounts for over two-thirds of the annual gold demand. Chinese demand for gold bars, coins and jewellery soared by 32 per cent to record levels in 2013, even as the price of gold slumped 28 per cent. The surge in buying saw China overtake India as the world’s

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top consumer of physical gold, importing 1,066 metric tons of the metal compared to India’s 975 metric tons in 2013, according to new data from the World Gold Council. (A metric ton is equal to 2,204.6 pounds)

Short selling Short selling of gold can be done in either futures markets or physical markets. Trading in futures markets is an important driver of gold prices and this has led to repeated claims of market manipulation, mostly by people who believe that gold prices have been artificially suppressed.

War, invasion and national emergency When dollars were fully convertible into gold via the gold standard, both were regarded as money. However, most people preferred to carry around paper banknotes rather than the somewhat heavier and less divisible gold coins. In cases of war, invasion and national emergency, customers withdraw their deposits from a financial institution if they fear their bank will fail. They then demand cash or transfer those funds into government bonds, precious metals or stones, or a safer institution because they believe that the financial institution is, or might become, insolvent.

Hedge against financial stress Gold, like all precious metals, may be used as a hedge against inflation, deflation or currency devaluation.

Gold jewellery recycling In recent years, the amount of second-hand jewellery being recycled has become a multi-billion dollar industry. The term “Cash for Gold” refers to a service for people to earn cash by selling their old, broken, or mismatched gold jewellery to local and online gold buyers. Many investors know that gold is a “safe haven” asset that can actually increase in value during stock market slides and times of recession. But what else do we really know about this commodity? Are we taking full advantage of it? Do we know how to work it into our overall investment strategy? Can we afford not to buy gold? Let’s think now! CJ

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Rousseau Chain is the exclusive Canadian distributor 1-800-661-4460

MOVING STONE JEWELRY

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Mike Ford

Since 2009, Mike has professionally photographed many exceptional people and places. His portraits tell the stories of remarkable people and have been recognized by the Applied Arts Photography Illustration Awards. Mike has shot for national magazines including Report on Business, Marketing Magazine, Profit, Glow and NOW magazine. For this special edition of Canadian Jeweller Magazine, he captured the impressive Brett Halliday, president for Canada of Michael Hill, for the cover feature on page 42.

Véronique Dubé

Luxury goods and lifestyle writer, freelance translator and independent journalist, Véronique has more than 10 years experience in the jewellery and advertising sectors. As a self-confessed “enthusiast of beautiful things,” she explores the culture of fashion, jewellery, ‘art de vivre’ and food in her many articles. Véronique made her usual contributions to this issue’s French Section found on page 52.

Sarah B. Hood

This Toronto-based freelance journalist explores the culture of fashion, food, urban life in her many books and articles. Sarah’s work has been short-listed for the National Magazine Awards, the Kenneth R. Wilson Awards (including her work for Canadian Jeweller Magazine!) and the Taste Canada – The Food Writing Awards. For this issue, she explored the world of synthetic diamonds in a feature you can find on page 62.

Contributors

Behind the Scenes Getting the opportunity to work with Michael Hill for our June/July issue was an absolute delight. We enlisted phenomenal photographer Mike Ford to capture the distinguished and congenial personality of the company’s Canadian division President Brett Halliday. Brett was a complete natural in front of the camera and the staff of the Michael Hill location in Upper Canada Mall, Newmarket were a reflection of why this jewellery retailer continues to grow and meet success at every step of its journey to conquering the global market. Brett’s story of literally growing up within the company and under the tutelage of Michael Hill himself for over two decades is absolutely inspiring and serves as a motivational tool for anyone that has their sights set on gaining a sense of accomplishment within the jewellery industry. CJ

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From jeweled birds to priceless information, CEO of Dhamani Jewels Group and GIA board member

AMIT DHAMANI talks about capturing the high-end consumer.

Is that a hawk? A falcon, the national bird of the United Arab Emirates. 10,000 gems, 500 carats. People come from all over to see it. How does a Jaipur jewel business become a Dubai luxury brand? We looked beyond where we were. Markets change. Clients change. You can’t predict. But you can position yourself.

What was your tipping point? We let go of generic jewelry business ideas and took a high-end approach. Which is also a very global approach. Sell an experience rather than just selling a product. Who is the new fine jewelry customer? Think highly mobile, connected and curious. And they don’t always come in with something specific in mind. So what motivates them? Information. The more you offer, the more they engage. Every month, we hold classes in diamond education, the 4Cs and GIA grading. Why GIA? Dubai has many nationalities. The global consumer is everyone. Familiarity with GIA crosses many different markets and countries. Do GIA grading reports influence a purchase? GIA reports represent transparency and assurance. I think we’re a success in the region because the biggest question in a customer’s mind is already answered when they walk in our door.

Parting insight on the high-end consumer? It starts with a connection. GIA gives retailers an amazing tool. With gem quality established, you’re free to talk about design, artistry or the occasion being celebrated. That’s when the magic happens.

GIA gratefully acknowledges those who have used our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU

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What’s On

Gear up for the year by staying informed on what shows are bound to be the biggest hits in 2015. The following is a list of key dates, location and contacts for the top shows around the world in the coming months to make YOUR life easier:

Trade Shows

Also, be sure to check out canadianjeweller.com for an online calendar listing the major shows for 2015.

June June 5 – 7: Hyderabad Jewellery, Pearl and Gem Fair (Hyderabad, India) jewellerynetasia.com and asiafja.com June 22 – 23: International Watch and Jewelry Guild Show (Rosemont, IL) iwjg.com June 25 – 28: June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair (Hong Kong, China) jewellerynetasia.com and asiafja.com June 27 – 28: 1st Mediterranean Gemmological and Jewellery Conference (Athens, Greece) cglworld.ca June 27 – 30: Mineral & Gem Asia (Hong Kong, China) jewellerynetasia.com and asiafja.com

July June 2 – 5: Singapore International Jewelry Expo (Singapore) sije.com.sg July 23 – 26: Gem & Lapidary Trade Show (Franklin, NC) glwshows.com June 24 – 26: The Gem Expo (Toronto, Canada) thegemexpo.com and bluesapphirebeads.com June 24 – 27: New York Antique Jewelry & Watch Show (New York, NY) usantiqueshows.com June 26 – 28: JA New York Summer Show (New York, NY) ja-newyork.com June 26 – 28: LUXURY Privé New York (New York, NY) reedexpo.com June 27 – 28: International Watch and Jewelry Guild Show (Brooklyn, NY) iwjg.com

August August 6 – 10: India International Jewellery Show 2015 (Mumbai, India) iijs.org August 7 – 9: East Coast Gem, Mineral & Fossil Show (West Springfield, MA) mzexpos.com/east_coast.html

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August 8 – 10: Atlanta Jewelry Show (Atlanta, GA) atlantajewelryshow.com August 8 – 11: NAJA 44th ACE It Mid-Year Education Conference (Washington, DC) najaappraisers.com/html/conferences.html August 9 – 11: Canadian Jewellery Expos – Toronto (Toronto, ON) cjexpos. com/toronto-expo August 9 – 11: Mode Accessories Show (Toronto, ON) mode-accessories.com August 9 – 12: Toronto Gift Fair (Toronto, ON) cangift.org/giftshow August 14 – 16: LA Antique Jewelry & Watch Show (Los Angeles, CA) laantiquejewelry.com August 14 – 16: Memphis Gift and Jewelry Show (Memphis, TN) helenbrett.com/Default.aspx August 16 – 18: Canadian Jewellery Expos – Edmonton (Edmonton, AB) cjexpos.com/edmonton-expo August 17 – 18: International Watch and Jewelry Guild Show (Universal City, CA) iwjg.com/calendar.shtml August 21 – 24: Malaysia International Jewellery Fair 2015 (Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia) elite.com.my/mijf August 21 – 24: New Orleans Gift and Jewelry Show (New Orleans, LA) helenbrett.com/Default.aspx August 23 – 24: Prime Jewelry Group (New Orleans, LA) primejewelrygroup.com/index.php August 23 – 25: Expo Prestige (Montreal, QC) cbq.qc.ca/QJC.html August 23 – 25: Stuller’s Bridge Event (Lafayette, LA) stuller.com/bridge August 26 – 28: Ambermart-International Amber Fair (Gdansk, Poland) ambermart.amberexpo.pl/title,Jezyk,lang,2.html August 26 – 28: Japan Jewellery Fair (Tokyo, Japan) japanjewelleryfair.com/en August 29 – 31: JAA International Jewellery Fair (Sydney, Australia) jewelleryfair.com.au/Sydney August 30 – 31: Select by Centurion Dallas 2015 (Dallas, TX) selectjewelryshow.com/dallas

C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M J U N E /J U L Y 2 0 1 5

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CBQ_Pub015_CJ.pdf

1

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09:37

The Most Prestigious Jewellery Show in Canada Le salon de bijouterie le plus prestigieux au Canada

EXPO PRESTIGE RESTIGE

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C

M

J

CM

MJ

CJ

August 23/24/25 Les 23/24/25 août

CMJ

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Montreal Convention Center Palais des congrès de Montréal

514 485-3333

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Product Showcase

Sauro

Nautica Collection - New in 2015, Sauro introduces a line of sailing-inspired rope bracelets just in time for the summer season. Unique in their style and closures, these bracelets add flare to your wrist game. Sauro bracelets are designed with the premise of being accessorized with additional bracelets and watches. The Nautica Collection starts at a retail price of US $1,400.

Nova Diamonds A lady can always use another pair. Nova Diamonds double teardrop earrings should be that pair. This brilliant set features 18k white gold and almost 9 total carats of VS-SI clarity E and F colour, white diamonds. For more information, call Nova Diamonds today at 416-868-6682. Retail price: $26,225.

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STEELX Collection Rugged meets refined‌ Indulge in the fascinating world of stainless steel, where diversity joins with luxury and affordability. Inspired by a world where rules do not exist, STEELX allows you to be yourself and express your confidence with style. Praised for its strength, durability, and sleek appearance, stainless steel is the metal of choice for those wanting the sophistication of precious metals. Urban and edgy, the STEELX collection for both men and women incorporates leathers, sparkling crystals, natural and semi-precious stones, reflecting true cutting-edge technology that exudes quality.

Thomas Sabo KARMA BEADS - A collection that combines many talents; all Karma Beads can be worn on their own or paired with other collection pieces to create unique and very personal jewellery statements.

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Product Showcase

GIA

Introducing the GIA 4Cs App – Retailer Edition for iPad. GIA is using the latest technology to help educate and engage consumers in a conversation about the 4Cs of diamond quality. Designed to be used at point of sale, the app features video and interactive tools to educate customers about how GIA grades the 4Cs and offers direct access to GIA’s online database of GIA reports.

Lily Jewellery What makes Lily Jewellery unique is the wide range of services provided. This beautiful, engraved ring was designed using our 3D CAD technology, casted, set, and polished all within our own premises. Browse through our large inventory of jewellery and diamonds at www.lilyjewellery.com.

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Star Watch

Bold Beauties

Looking perfect from head-to-toe, these stars stepped out onto the red carpet knowing that heads would turn and jaws would drop.

Diamond Queen Emmy Rossum radiated with beauty when she hosted the 2015 Costume Designers Guild Awards in Beverly Hills. The 28-year-old actress attended the event donning a pale pink Donna Karan Atelier dress with a crisscrossed bodice and sweeping train. Her brunette tresses were pulled back into a smooth bun and perfectly accented a pair of shimmering 18k white gold and diamond drop Martin Katz earrings ($26,000).

Symmetrical Stunner

Floating Fantasy Model and actress Suki Waterhouse looked like a princess that stepped straight out of fairytale book when she showed up at the Insurgent premiere in New York City held at the Ziegfeld Theater. The beautiful Brit wore a stunning blush pink Reem Acra gown with satin Brian Atwood platform pumps. Her ensemble was tied together nicely with several 18k rose gold Brumani rings featuring shimmering diamonds and lustrous rose quartz ($2,841, $3,145).

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Jessica Lowndes looked like a true Hollywood star when she attended the 23rd Annual Elton John AIDS Foundation’s Oscar Viewing Party in West Hollywood, California. The 90210 actress wore a stunning ball gown with a geometrical black and white bodice and had her luscious brown locks styled into a polished braid. Her entire look was perfectly tied together by a bold, red lip and a set of Antonini ‘Aurea’ diamond earrings in 18k white gold ($10,420).

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Star Watch

Met Gala Madness

The clothes may have made the headlines but the jewels stole the spotlight. This year’s Met Gala held at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City was one for the books as the stars paid tribute to the evening’s theme of “China: Through the Looking Glass.”

Opulent Orient Actress Zendaya didn’t get lost in the shuffle when it came to the Met Gala red carpet. The petite singer made many critics’ Best Dressed list by donning a custom Fausto Puglisi gown, which featured a low-cut black velvet bodice and crimson silk duchesse asymmetric skirt hand-embroidered with crystal and velvet sun motifs. To add more glitz to the drama, the 18-year-old wore a stunning Lydia Courteille ring ($50,400) in the shape of a swan’s head.

Red is for Passion Jennifer Lopez was definitely the most talked about celebrity of the evening as she stunned onlookers in a red ombré Versace dress featuring a sequin dragon design. The gorgeous singer perfectly matched her revealing ensemble with a red crystal Swarovski clutch and a pair of Sutra fan earrings ($18,000) featuring 2cts of diamonds and 9cts of rubies set in 18k rose gold.

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Simply Smashing Kate Beckinsale’s look may have been more simplistic than many of the others on the Met Gala red carpet but the actress was still hard to miss. Looking absolutely flawless in custom Diane von Furstenberg, her floor-length, sleeveless, glittering gold gown featured a strip of lacy sheer paneling around the waist and was perfectly accented by a pair of black strappy heels and Carrera y Carrera yellow gold and black onyx fringe earrings ($15,700).

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Canadian Jeweller [56th Key visual_V2].pdf 1 21/5/2558 17:16:40

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SEPTEMBER 10-14, 2015 AT IMPACT CHALLENGER

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For The Record

News/Trends/Events New rules on credit card fees in Canada Finance Minister Joe Oliver unveiled an update to the code of conduct for the credit and debit card industry this week. The new revisions will expand the voluntary code to include mobile payments involving smartphones. And while premium credit cards are also required to be clearly branded, consumers must be informed of the fees that cards impose on business owners. Although Oliver’s announcement is being supported by the Retail Council of Canada and the Canadian Federation of Independent Business, a group of business owners representing grocers, travel agents, convenience store owners and other associations, feel that the revisions are not enough. According to CFIB President Dan Kelly, “The number one issue was the high cost of accepting credit cards.” The Small Business Matters Coalition, which represents over 98,000 businesses in Canada, says that MasterCard and Visa fees are still too high. Coalition Chair and Vice President of the Canadian Federation of Independent Grocers Gary Sands says, “We continue to believe as a coalition that the fundamental and most important issue remains that of high credit card fees and we are not satisfied as a coalition that there has been a meaningful or significant step in the right direction in that area.” The coalition also includes the Canadian Convenience Stores Association, the Independent Petroleum Marketers and the Association of Canadian Travel Agencies. Back in November of 2014, Visa and MasterCard agreed to reduce their fees charged to businesses to an average of 1.5 per cent.

GIA hosts iconic diamond exhibit in California The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) hosted seven of the world’s finest diamond houses at its world headquarters in Carlsbad, California from April 29 to May 11. The exhibit, which showcased exceptional diamonds and intricate jewellery for a limited time in Southern California, also coincided with the debut of “Dreams of Diamonds.” The largest book ever published on these soughtafter gems, it weighs more than 30 pounds and took six years to complete. Show goers had a chance to view 25 diamond pieces totaling more than 4,000 carats and ranging from a pair of boots set with 1,527 carats of diamonds to a 50.05 carat D colour, flawless diamond briolette. All of the diamond pieces came from brands like Adler, Chatila, Chow Tai Fook, Diacore, Diarough, Mouawad and MUNNU The Gem Palace. “The creators of ‘Dreams of Diamonds’ were able to capture extraordinary diamond pieces in enchanting, ethereal settings,” says Terri Ottaway, curator of the GIA museum. “This exhibit is an ode to the wondrous world of diamonds and we’re fortunate to share the artistry of these seven diamond houses with the public.”

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New consumer initiative from DEF During the “Power Panel” and “Connecting Powerful Diamond Stories with Customers” seminars at the Smart Show Chicago, Dr. Benjamin Chavis, co‐ founder of the Diamond Empowerment Fund (D.E.F), stressed the need to connect the positive stories behind diamonds with customers. “Storytelling has always been the way to connect diamonds with the heart,” says Dr. Chavis. “We have the good stories customers want to hear, we just have to start telling them.” D.E.F has created materials to help retailers and their sales associates communicate these stories to consumers both in-store and online. Positive stories behind diamonds are part of the Diamonds Do Good Initiative launched in December 2014 with funding from industry leaders at the Diamonds In The Sky Las Vegas event, and also with the help of grants made by the JCK Industry Fund. The website DiamondsDoGood.com and its accompanying social media efforts on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and YouTube, acknowledge the aggregate ongoing good of the global diamond and diamond jewellery industry through personal stories. It is a real-time interactive repository of the collective good works and impacts of the industry on communities where they do business, whether these communities are in Africa, India, China, Australia, Canada, Russia, or the United States. Retailers are encouraged to share their own individual stories of giving back with the Diamond Empowerment Fund.

Just as unique and powerful as the stories behind diamonds are the stories of diamonds themselves. “Every diamond is, by definition, a wonder all the more intriguing because it has borne witness to the origins of our world a billion years ago,” says D.E.F Executive Director Nancy Orem Lyman, who was also part of The Smart Show seminar. These are the stories consumers need to hear and they are featured on the website and through the Diamonds Do Good Initiative. The materials developed for use by retailers include a core visual component: the “We Support Diamonds Do Good” seal that has been made into a window cling for display on storefront windows and for digital/website use, clickable back to diamondsdogood.com. The materials also include sales associate training materials on the Diamonds Do Good message; a digital brochure on D.E.F’s own Diamonds Do Good mission to share with consumers through each store’s social media channels; a 12‐month digital content calendar of the stories behind and of diamonds to help a store plan their posts on a monthly and weekly basis; counter cards, and a one‐page customer brochure. These materials are available to retailers around the world at no cost. Contact Nancy Orem Lyman at n.lyman@diamondempowerment.org or 212.359.4219.

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For The Record

Stats Canada reports rising unemployment due to Target “effect” as retail sector contracts According to Statistics Canada, last month accounted for a total of 19,700 job losses, the highest number since August 2014. Those affected by the cuts include sales staff, cashiers and clerks largely due to the closings of stores like Target Canada, Best Buy, Mexx, Smart Set, Indigo Books, and Sony. But despite the huge job cuts, the retail sector remains the main source of employment in Canada. Andrew Fields, Statistics Canada labour market analyst, told The Globe and Mail, “Although some may think of retail trade workers as primarily casual employees or youths, we have to remember it is the largest industry in Canada at the moment, employing over two million people – mostly men and women between the ages of 25 and 54.” Target’s move to leave the Canadian retail scene has resulted in a loss of 17,600 jobs in addition to other companies that worked with Target and had to lay off their own staff as well.

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Canadian Gift Association partners with CJ Expos The Board of Directors of the Canadian Gift Association (CanGift), the country’s premier association for suppliers of gift, house wares and home decor, has announced an exciting collocation initiative with the Canadian Jewellery Expo (CJ Expos) at the upcoming Fall 2015 Toronto Gift Fair. Located in Hall 5 of The International Centre, the Canadian Jewellery Expo will run August 9 to August 11, overlapping the Toronto Gift Fair’s first three show days. Each show will honour the other’s visitor badge, facilitating a smooth method for buyers to visit both events. Jewellery buyers looking to expand their store categories will now be able to source a wide assortment of products from over 800 exhibitors at the Toronto Gift Fair. Embodying the entrepreneurial instinct and spirit of Canadian SME’s, CanGift is a national, not-for-profit association dedicated to improving its members’ competitive capability and business effectiveness by enhancing local, national and global trading opportunities. CanGift is comprised of over 1,200 member companies made up of leading Canadian giftware manufacturers, importers, exporters, distributors and wholesalers. CJ Expos are Canada’s largest annual fine jewellery expositions. They take place in Toronto and Edmonton during the second and third weekends in August, annually. CJ Expos are managed by Toronto-based industry veterans – Lilie Ford (Event Director) and Garnet Irving (Operations Director). Edmonton-based executives Geoff and Phil Payne are the owners of CJ Expos. Toronto Gift Fair Show Hours: Sunday, August 9 – Tuesday, August 11, 9:00 am – 6:00 pm Wednesday, August 12, 9:00 am – 3:00 pm Locations: The International Centre and the Toronto Congress Centre For more information, visit torontogiftfair.org Toronto CJ Expo Show Hours: Sunday, August 9 – Monday, August 10, 10:00 am – 6:00 pm Tuesday, August 11, 10:00 am – 4:00 pm Location: The International Centre, Hall 5 For more information, visit cjexpos.com

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Consumer payment preferences vary according to region Today, international e-commerce has huge moneymaking potential but research finds that many retailers have the potential to lose customers if they do not provide proper payment methods. A recent report reveals that 68 per cent of consumers have left an online retail site due to an insufficient payment process. As a result, retailers need to provide clients with their preferred method of payment in order to secure the sale. Below is a brief guide to payment preferences around the world courtesy of entrepreneur.com. U.S. • credit cards dominate • eWallets are becoming popular • 2014 survey found 79 per cent of respondents had made payments using PayPal, and 40 per cent through Google Wallet Europe • diverse payment market • credit card sales are becoming increasingly popular

• many customers still prefer real-time banking options through which they’re redirected to their online bank accounts to submit payment • some payment methods are pan-European, but most are localized per country Localized European payment methods • half of all online transactions in the U.K. are paid by credit card • debit cards account for some 35 per cent of e-commerce payment • PayPal is the country’s third most popular online payment method • in France, Carte Blue debit cards account for 85 per cent of all e-commerce transactions • in the Netherlands, iDEAL is a popular payment method in online stores • in Finland and Sweden, real-time bank transactions account for up to 35 per cent of the market share Pan-European payment methods • SEPA (Single Euro Payments Area) is a European Union paymentintegration initiative currently in the making • 33 European countries are taking part in SEPA, in addition to 28 EU member states, the four countries in the European Free Trade Association and Monaco • SOFORT payment platform offers currency conversion and is used in 10 European countries (Germany, Austria, Switzerland, the UK, Italy, Spain, Poland, Hungary, Slovakia and the Czech Republic) Japan • customers prefer to pay for online goods with cash at convenience stores called Konbinis China • Alipay dominates online payments claiming 60 per cent of market share • PayEase is another popular payment service provider, enabling comprehensive payment services like mobile payments via SMS, internet banking, call centers and POS terminals Asia-Pacific • mobile payment systems are on the increase in the Asia-Pacific, with more than two-thirds of those acquainted with the methods using digital wallets and SMS payments last year

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For The Record

Lacy & Company Ltd. closing its doors in Toronto Lacy & Company Ltd. is shutting down business in Toronto and merging its assets with those of its Vancouver branch, Lacy West. Originally created in 1927 as a watch material house and retail store supply for the Ontario Canadian Jewellery Trade, the company converted over to a jewellers’ supply house in the late 1970s. This changeover, says Les Durkin, owner of both Lacy & Co. and Lacy West, “corresponded with when the quartz watch came in, which killed [most of] the watch parts business… So we made the switch to jewellery supplies and carried on.” Durkin himself started out with Lacy & Co. in 1959 as a delivery boy. Throughout his career, he has acted as a salesman, vice-president, and eventual owner of the company. In 1991, Durkin moved to Vancouver and started

Samsung and World Jewelry Hub join forces for mutual strategic cooperation Samsung Electronics and the World Jewelry Hub have signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) in Panama City, pledging to cooperate strategically with the goal of providing added value to both organizations, as well as their to respective clients and stakeholders, and the Republic of Panama. According to the MOU, the two sides will create a strategic alliance in order to develop and implement projects that provide mutual commercial benefits and encourage loyalty to both brands. They also agreed to develop projects that will serve the interests of local communities and expand the CSR programs of both companies.

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Lacy West before purchasing the Toronto location in February of this year. Now, Durkin has made the decision to merge the two entities. “We’re rearranging the assets of the company to reflect the current and future needs of our customers,” says Durkin. “It’s a competitive world these days.” The last day of business for the 88-year-old Lacy & Co. is set for May 29. After this date, all customers and inventory will be transferred over to Lacy West. Gillian Durkin, who has managed the Toronto location for the last 20 years, will also be retiring at this time. According to Mr. Durkin, the company will continue to run with the same principles of operation as always. “In the end,” he says, “what we’re trying to do is make it a more competitive company, and improve everything for everybody… For our customers as well as ourselves.”

Headquartered in South Korea, Samsung is one of the world’s largest electronic and technology companies, with products ranging from mobile phones and computers, consumer electronics, household appliances, industrial machinery, digital appliances, media, semiconductors, memory and system integration. In Panama, Samsung has established a subsidiary that supports 24 countries in the Caribbean and Central America, as well as Ecuador and Venezuela, in different product divisions. “At Samsung, we leverage innovation to provide people the power of discovering new ideas, developing products that improve their lifestyles,” says Mr. H.S. Kim, president for the visual display division of Samsung. “It is an honour for Samsung to be able to partner with such an innovative organization, which carry out magnificent project, for Panama and the world.” Based in the Santa Maria Business District of Panama City, the World Jewelry Hub is the first dedicated jewellery, diamond and gemstone center in Latin America, serving as a primary trading point for industry professionals from Central and South America, Mexico and the Caribbean, and an access point to and from the region for the international trade. It is also the home of the Panama Diamond Exchange, Latin America’s first and only recognized diamond bourse. “This is a milestone not only for the World Jewelry Hub, but for the Latin American jewellery and gemstone business as well,” said Eli Izhakoff, the WJH Chairman. “It is a tangible demonstration of support from a corporation that in the space of just several years changed the face of consumer electronics, and it is a vote of confidence in the role that we and the Republic of Panama will play in the development of the world’s next great jewellery market. Cooperation with Samsung can only strengthen our position.”

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Canadian Jeweller Magazine is pleased to present the annual 2015 Awards of Excellence celebrating the very best in Canadian jewellery design, retailing, product development and watch brand innovation

Why enter?

1.

• It’s a prestigious forum in which to be recognized by your peers • Tremendous opportunities to promote your achievement in marketing initiatives • Social media exposure via Facebook, Twitter and Instagram • Review in Canadian Jeweller Magazine • Award solidifies your position in the industry

Categories • • • • • • • • •

Independent Jewellery Retailer of the Year Multi-Store Retailer of the Year Product Line of the Year Watch Brand of the Year Best Diamond Design Best Canadian Diamond Design Best Pearl Design Best Platinum Design Best Coloured Gemstone Design

To enter, you will need to submit: • A completed nomination form found on canadianjeweller.com • A $60 entry fee per nomination • Photographs of the product/product line being nominated • Samples of advertising campaigns, brochures, etc. marketing the product line • Testimonials from at least two Canadian retailers For full details, to register, and/or to find out how you can become a sponsor of the event, visit canadianjeweller.com or call us at 416-203-7900 x 6102.

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3.

1. Best Coloured Gemstone winner Llyn Strelau of Jewels by Design 2. Independent Jewellery Retailer of the Year: Mani Jewellers 3. Best Canadian Diamond winner Noam Carver

Entry deadline is September 4th, 2015 at 5:00 p.m. awards-of-excellence-ad3.indd 35

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For The Record

A tribute to Mark Sapir by Stephen Ben-Oliel of Canadian Noble House Diamonds: How do you say good-bye to a man about whom they talked in whispers? “When he laughs, the great silver bears of the North dance for him under the northern lights. When he dances, the angels sing from the heavens with joy.” In every life well lived, there is someone who has mentored and guided the way. On my personal journey, Mark Sapir was the man who took me off the streets of Toronto and showed me how a life well lived could be. Ours was a beginning that was the stuff of Dickens. My dream of entering Toronto’s diamond trade seemed thwarted by bloodlines, lack of connections and inexperience. Mark was looking for ambition and hunger, and so it was. He fired me before he hired me. I brought nothing more to the table that first fateful day than the previously named ambitious hunger to learn everything of the diamond trade

and I knew there would be no better teacher than Mark. In turn, and in anger, I declared that it would serve us both well if he at least gave me a three-month free intern position in his company. He did. And so it began, my journey with Mark and the most brilliant years of education, travel, intrigue and adventure that a young and aspiring diamantaire could ever dream of. We worked in compliment. Mark had the smarts born of a beginning in Tbilisi, Georgia, which he used to enhance his skills in the international diamond market. He worked for one of the two founders of the diamond industry in Israel and successfully took the Silver Bears (Russian diamonds) to market internationally, eventually coming to Canada in the early 1970s. Mark was full of drive and ambition and so it is no surprise that he started his own international diamond wholesaling business in Toronto, which would later also import Italian gold. He became integral to the Canadian diamond business and known by all. In his professional world, Mark was guided by Toronto’s elder gentlemen of the trade; men like Henry Dorsey, Ken Boddy, and Joe Zoski. These men are each a grand story in themselves. Together they were legendary but now only memories. Each of these kind gentlemen reflected the best of our industry and tempered us with their wisdom. Mark’s legacy now rests with theirs. The diamond business reflects, in a myriad of ways, the absolute best and worst in our humanity. Mark chose, of course, to surround himself with these kind gentlemen for the dark abyss of diamonds, like humanity, knows no bottom; Mark chose to focus on love, for that is all that really matters. So went our years together, million dollar days, black Mondays, measuring profits and losses. Memories all fade. However, the force of Mark’s personality remains in my mind and heart today. On the last day of my life, should I know the day, I will remember the way he would turn to me, smile, and say, “Stephen, this is the life.” Love was Mark’s guide in both life and business. There were no greater loves in his life than his beloved and devoted wife Julie, his son Danny, his daughter Leah, and his grandchildren and great-grandchildren. As much as we loved the diamond business, Mark taught me that family is all that really matters, and he led the way by truly living his life accordingly to this principle. Mark Sapir, you will always live in the hearts of your loving family and in all those who had the honour to know you. You are one for the ages and you will be missed. The love that you left behind will last forever. We will not see his like again.

Spence Diamonds sold to private equity firm

Research shows consumers prefer printed circulars

Private equity firm Lion Capital has purchased Canadian jewellery retailer Spence Diamonds for an estimated $125 million, according to Fortune Magazine. The deal for the 27 year-old Canadian diamond retailer included a minority co-investment from IVEST Consumer Partners, which is a Vancouver-based retail investor and operator. IVEST is set to bring in seasoned operating executives George Jones and Jim Schneider on board. Spence CEO Sean Jones will retain an ownership position and a seat on the board. The company doesn’t have any debts and hopes that the move will help expand the retailer’s current number of locations, which stands at seven to an eventual 20 across Canada. According to Eric Lindberg, a partner of Lion Capital, “Sean and his team have done an outstanding job of successfully establishing the Spence franchise. We look forward to supporting the continued growth of this distinctive retailer, which we believe delivers a unique proposition within the Canadian jewelry sector.”

According to new research conducted by Market Force Information, about half of consumers read printed circulars once a week and 16 per cent turn to them three to four times per week. Out of the respondents, 80 per cent said that they plan shopping trips based on the information they found in printed circulars while 67 per cent still use coupons and 63 per cent use printed circulars to match prices between different stores. Even though the use of mobile phones and tablets is strongly influencing and changing the retail landscape, consumers are still heavily relying on printed circulars. Last year, the Newspaper Association of America found that 70 per cent of people still rely on inserts in newspapers to be notified of store sales. That survey also found that 48 per cent of respondents prefer to look at printed circulars versus searching online for sales deals. Furthermore, another recent survey by Retale and Placed found that out of 11,000 mobile users, 31 per cent use their mobile app to find ads from various retailers but about half of respondents have never turned to digital circulars.

In loving memory of Mark Sapir

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Cindy Chandler, Paco Underhill, and Sally Shulz

CJ Gallery CAD Pressure Challenge contestants

Bench Pressure Challenge triumphs at SMART Jewellery Show RUNNING FROM APRIL 15 TO 17, the 7th annual SMART Show in Chicago focused on providing retailers with information on the latest and most innovative products and ideas in the industry. This year’s event featured a variety of top exhibitors and keynote speakers. The highlight of the show, however, was InStore Magazine’s Bench Pressure Challenge. The competition, which took place in the show’s new Bench Challenge Pavilion, highlighted the expertise and craftsmanship that artists require in order to turn their creative ideas into magnificent finished works. Contestants were given two hours to complete specific tasks, and were judged on creativity, presentation, sales skills, and how well the final designs met the judges’ given requirements. Spectators were able to closely scrutinize each step of the process up close, thanks to the overhead monitors located at each bench workstation. “The Bench Challenge area… had the best show to date, with lots of bench jewellers coming to Chicago to see what its all about,” says Darrel Warren, VP of merchandising for Stuller, Inc., which provides tools, supplies, and benches for the competition. “We really enjoy being part of this, and giving ‘rock star’ bench jewellers some well-deserved recognition.” CJ

Stephane Fischler, AWDC president

Paco Underhill keynote

Be sure to check out the digital edition of the June/July 2015 issue and canadianjeweller.com to view more photos from this shoot!

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bfly.com info@bfly.ca 1-888-660-3292

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CJ Gallery

Shine bright like a crystal ONCE AGAIN, SWAROVSKI DESCENDED UPON the Trump International Hotel & Tower in Toronto to stun the press world with its latest creations for the Fall/Winter season. The “Winter Gardens” collection, which was defined by luxurious shades of lavender, berry and plum, featured a number of new statement necklaces, bracelets, rings and earrings inspired by nature, the splendor of gardens, and the richness of the English countryside. “Nature is an endless source of inspiration, and after celebrating flowers in our latest Spring Summer collection, we now take flora and fauna to an autumnal interpretation. I was inspired by textiles portraying an idealized nature such as the vintage tapestry of English manors, the dévoré velvets, as well as the ornamental lace, which presents feminine, romantic accents,” says Swarovski Creative Director Nathalie Colin. The preview event also included a glimpse into Atelier Swarovski unveiling its Autumn/Winter 2015 collections, created by French fashion jewellery designer Philippe Ferrandis and British jewellery house Shaun Leane. All of the brand’s new pieces range from easy-to-wear designs that are timeless and fashionable and can satisfy the tastes of any woman. CJ Photos courtesy of Kaitlin Yep

Be sure to check out the digital edition of the June/July 2015 issue and canadianjeweller.com to view more photos from this shoot!

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A warm welcome for Vicenzaoro Dubai BEING ONE OF THE WORLD’S LEADING LUXURY DESTINATIONS, it only seemed natural for Dubai to host it’s own brand new jewellery super show. Vicenzaoro Dubai premiered at the Dubai World Trade Centre to more than 6,000 local, regional and international visitors and major buyers from over 110 countries. Organized by DV Global Link, which is a joint venture between Fiera di Vicenza and the Dubai World Trade Centre (DWTC), the show ran from April 23 to 26 and showcased more than 500 top brands from over 25 countries across four categories that included Global Brands, Fine Jewellery & National Pavilions, Gemstones & Diamonds, and Packaging & Supply. One of the show’s standout events was the “Italian Beauty” exhibit, which was organized by Vicenzaoro Dubai in partnership with the Italian Trade Promotion Agency (ICE) and boasted stunning contemporary Italian jewellery with Giorgio Starace, the Italian Ambassadoer to the UAE, in attendance. “In line with our expectations, the debut of Vicenzaoro Dubai achieved very positive results,” says Corrado Facco, vice chairman of DV Global Link and managing director of Fiera di Vicenza. “Despite unfavourable economic circumstances and geopolitical contexts in notable major markets for the global jewellery industry, the success of the inaugural event has strengthened our resolve to continue expanding the show over the next few years – especially in tactical capacity areas such as high-end consumption and luxury product absorption.” CJ Photos courtesy of VicenzaOro Dubai

Be sure to check out the digital edition of the June/July 2015 issue and canadianjeweller.com to view more photos from this shoot!

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When opportunity speaks Staying true to the core message of love has allowed Michael Hill to take the Canadian retail industry by storm by Irina Lytchak photography by Mike Ford

WHEN BRETT HALLIDAY LEFT HIS LIFE IN AUSTRALIA BEHIND to help bring the success of jewellery giant Michael Hill to Canada, failing was out of the question for him. “We wanted to avoid spreading the company too thin and expanding on too many horizons at once,” explains Halliday, president for the Canadian division of Michael Hill. “That’s why we decided to make sure that Canada is a priority.” Michael Hill, an Australian jewellery and watch retailer that was first established in New Zealand, entered the Canadian market back in 2002 when the owner’s daughter, Emma Hill, opened the first locations in Vancouver, British Columbia. By 2007, Halliday made the move to Toronto with his family and immediately took over the reigns for the Canadian market as the top choice for the job after working with the company for over two decades.

FROM HUMBLE BEGINNINGS Michael Hill opened his first location in New Zealand and after experiencing a significant amount of growth, he expanded what was becoming a retail chain of jewellery stores into Australia. By that time, Halliday joined the company as a manager in training but having never worked in retail before or the lack of jewellery expertise didn’t stop him from pursuing a management career within the company. After managing stores in the eastern region of Australia for about seven years, Halliday made the move to bring the Michael

Hill name to the western region of the country. “When I first met Michael, he spoke about growth and the future,” recalls Halliday. “Who would have thought that 22 years after meeting him in Canberra, I would be sitting in Toronto with a multimillion-dollar business? It’s a shock, and it happened so fast.” In a span of just four years, Halliday managed to open 14 new stores in the western region of Australia. This was the experience and preparation that he would eventually need in order to do the same in Canada. The company opened its 12th store in Canada by Halliday’s arrival and since then, the store count has gone up to 60 with plans to reach 65 by October 2015.

TAKING A CHANCE ON CANADA At the moment, Halliday is focusing all of his efforts on 21 locations that are in full swing, including a major store opening set for this summer in one of Canada’s most up-and-coming retail centres, Yorkdale Shopping Mall in Toronto. Since its arrival into Canada, Michael Hill has already conquered the central region of the country, with stores operating all across Alberta, Manitoba and Saskatchewan. British Columbia is well on its way to reaching its targeted number of stores and the east coast is Halliday’s next stop. “With 60 stores, we have a successful business, and we’re making a

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profit that goes back to the organization,” he says. “We are the only jewellery retailer that’s expanding as quickly as we are.” The company set out a goal of opening 1,000 stores by 2022 and it’s well on its way to reaching that number considering Michael Hill already boasts 290 locations around the world, with 52 in New Zealand, 180 in Australia, and 60 in Canada.

IT’S ALL IN THE FAMILY Today, although Michael Hill is an international corporation, it’s still considered to be a family-run business. Not only is the owner’s daughter on the board of directors in New Zealand, but Halliday and the other regional presidents all came from the same beginning. “Myself and the gentlemen that run the U.S. and Australian markets have been mates for 20 years,” he explains. “We all started on the sales floor together; we sold jewellery together and we’ve all grown as we expanded. We talk every day and we challenge each other.” While his role within the company is much different today than it was 20 years ago, Halliday makes it a priority to visit all of the locations across the country and maintain a strong relationship with all of the management and

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sales staff, many of whom have been with the company for more than one decade. “Salespeople like to work for the organization because they’re still working for Michael, who is still with us,” he explains. “My wife and I travel the country and I spend most of my time in the stores on a regular basis. I still keep as much in contact with the salespeople and the store managers as I can, because that’s how I grew up. And I try to pass on everything that I’ve learned to the younger generation.” “At Michael Hill, there’s a career path from the starting point to the CEO because we’ve all done it. I don’t have any formal education but I have the life skills, the knowledge that I learned from this business, and a vision of what I want to achieve. Now, it’s about putting all of this into action and assembling the best team that I can.”

THE SECRET LIES IN THE PRODUCT One unique aspect of Michael Hill that keeps this retailer competitive on a global scale is that it manufactures and retails its own in-house brand. Offering almost everything under the stars when it comes to jewellery, Michael Hill also began manufacturing its own watches about ten years ago.

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“At the end of the day, we want to offer the best product at the best value to our consumers.”

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“The main thing about having the Michael Hill brand is that consumers are buying a piece of jewellery that they are going to have for the rest of their lives. And to know that it was designed, sourced, and manufactured in-house – that’s how we develop that trust.” Cover Story

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Today, the retailer offers a wide range of collections that have been specially designed and branded for customers’ various and precise needs. The company’s most profitable line includes the diamond and engagement pieces, which are all designed and manufactured by a master craftsman in Brisbane, Australia. “At the end of the day, we want to offer the best product at the best value to our consumers,” says Halliday. “The main thing about having the Michael Hill brand is that consumers are buying a piece of jewellery that they are going to have for the rest of their lives. And to know that it was designed, sourced, and manufactured in-house – that’s how we develop that trust.” To stay competitive in the charm game, the retailer has also recently introduced a branded line of charms and beads called Emma & Roe. As an addition to the already existing collection of Michael Hill charms, the Emma & Roe line, inspired by Michael’s daughter’s name and his wife’s maiden name, has already gained momentum in the Canadian market after being introduced into a number of Michael Hill Jeweller locations across the country.

CAMPAIGNING FOR LOVE Recently, the retailer released a new advertising campaign that centres on the idea of love. And although love is the go-to topic for most retailers when it comes to marketing jewellery, Michael Hill has added its own spin to create a

series of very moving promotional videos and images. “It’s about real, everyday people with stories to tell and we’ve actually weaved that into our advertising,” says Halliday. He explains how the Michael Hill advertising team spent a few days in New York City talking to hundreds of people randomly selected on the streets about their idea of love. The final product involved choosing about 20 people that served as the inspiration for the current “We’re for Love” Michael Hill campaign. “The ring that you buy – it’s not just a piece of metal with a diamond in it – it’s actually something that’s personal,” says Halliday. “It’s love and everyone deserves to find love in all sorts of ways. Hopefully, the Michael Hill story will intertwine and become part of the story of the couple, or the mother and daughter, or the brother and sister.” Since its inception, “We’re for Love” has helped the retail chain form the basis of its communication style with consumers. When the campaign first rolled out, Michael Hill employees were given the chance to preview the video before the public at an exclusive cinema screening and Halliday recalls that at the end, there wasn’t a dry eye left in the building. “Even when selling in store, we always train our staff to be able to find the customer’s story,” he says. “For every person that buys a piece of jewellery, there’s a story behind it. It’s an anniversary; it’s a wedding gift; it’s an engagement ring. It’s about finding their story, telling them our story and then

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weaving them together to find the customer that perfect piece.” All of the couples that were interviewed for the campaign as well as their videos can be found on the Michael Hill website. Michael himself can be seen in the campaign alongside his wife, being a true testament to the power of love after so many years of being together. “This is probably the most powerful campaign that we’ve put together, and we only launched it late last year, so it’s still in its infancy,” says Halliday. “We don’t care what love you’re into, we just want you to get your fair share.”

A LOOK AHEAD

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Name: Michael Hill Owner: Public company Locations: 290

Today, Halliday prides Michael Hill’s longevity and credits a large part of it to customer loyalty. “In Canada, we now have employees that have been here six, seven, and even eight years and I think from a consumer point of view, that’s trust,” he says. “When you walk into a store, you want to see familiar faces, and our customers stay and buy through us because of a trust in a Michael Hill product. They’re buying our name and they know that we’ll look after it for the rest of their lives.” Michael Hill continues to grow in the global market by staying true to the one thing that inspired its inception – love. CJ

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AT A GLANCE

Staff: over 1,000 Known for: diamond engagement and bridal jewellery, watches, Emma & Roe Cool factor: Established in New Zealand, Michael Hill is still operated by its original founder and his family

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“We don’t care what love you’re into, we just want you to get your fair share.”

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CJ en français

Les Nouvelles par Véronique Dubé

Josh, produite avec passion Fondée il y a 14 ans suite à un pur élan du cœur, les deux designers de Josh, qui sont mari et femme, ont commencé à dessiner et produire leurs bracelets dans leur grenier. Au tournant de 2010, ils connaissent une grande expansion et déménagent dans la belle ville de Tilburg, au sud de la Hollande. Depuis, Josh ne cesse de croître et est désormais distribuée à travers le monde. Les bracelets sont fabriqués à la main, principalement en zamak plaqué d’argent 925 et en cuir provenant d’Italie et d’Espagne. Offerte au Canada depuis 7 ans, Josh a su faire sa place chez nous, aimée pour son design unique, sa grande qualité de fabrication et son large éventail de modèles. Les produits Josh se retrouvent dans les plus belles bijouteries du Canada et ont conquis le coeur des Américains.

Édition limitée maestro Frank Sinatra, de Raymond Weil

La montre maestro Frank Sinatra, par Raymond Weil

Bracelets, collection Printemps/Été 2015 pour femmes, de Josh. www.joshaccessories.eu

La maison horlogère suisse RAYMOND WEIL se joint à la famille Sinatra pour commémorer le centième anniversaire de la naissance de Frank Sinatra. Dans le cadre des célébrations du centenaire « Sinatra 100 », RAYMOND WEIL réinterprète sa collection emblématique maestro et crée une montre spéciale en édition limitée afin de rendre hommage à cet artiste légendaire. Rappelant le célèbre « Ol’ Blue Eyes », les aiguilles, les index et le contour de la fenêtre de date sont d’une teinte bleu vif, qui contraste avec le cadran argenté. Le dos du boîtier en verre saphir porte le nom de l’artiste, tandis que le douze, seul nombre à être inscrit en chiffres romains, rappelle la date de naissance de Sinatra, le 12 décembre. Toujours en référence à sa date de naissance, seulement 1 212 exemplaires de l’édition limitée maestro Frank Sinatra seront disponibles à partir de juin 2015.

AGS Conclave 2015 : les sept étapes d’une vente proactive

Forevermark se lance dans le commerce en ligne

Lors de sa présentation le 23 avril dernier, la gemmologue certifiée et formatrice en vente Debbie Hiss a mis de l’avant les sept étapes à considérer pour conclure une vente et s’assurer de la fidélité d’un client. Bienvenue – Connexion – Découverte – Présence – Réactions, questions et réponses – Conclusion – Complément. « Quand vous concluez une vente, le but n’est pas seulement d’encaisser l’argent, c’est aussi de gagner un client, et de faire revenir ce client dans votre magasin aussi souvent que possible quand il a une occasion à célébrer », disait-elle. Debbie Hiss possède de nombreuses années d’expérience dans le domaine, notamment au sein des entreprises Lazare Kaplan et Hearts On Fire.

Avec ses deux nouveaux programmes annoncés lors de son forum 2015, Forevermark souhaite d’abord et avant tout mettre l’accent sur le renforcement de la relation entre le consommateur en ligne et le détaillant local. Un grand nombre d’acheteurs de bijoux commencent leurs recherches sur le Web, mais ce n’est qu’une petite portion de ce nombre qui achète purement en ligne. Lors de leur magasinage sur le site de Forevermark, les acheteurs seront dirigés aux détaillants locaux selon leur position géographique. Forevermark précise qu’elle jouera un rôle de « facilitateur » dans la transaction, et le détaillant partenaire recevra sa pleine part du prix de détail.

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« Dreams of Diamonds » : le livre et l’exposition Du 29 avril au 11 mai 2015, la Gemological Institute of America accueillait l’exposition « Dreams of Diamonds » à son siège social de Carlsbad, en Californie. Pour l’occasion, 25 pièces étaient exposées, dont des diamants exceptionnellement rares et des bijoux en diamants prêtés par 12 diamantaires et designers de renommée mondiale incluant Adler Joailliers, Chatila, Chow Tai Fook, Diacore, Mouawad et Munnu The Gem Palace. Cet événement était organisé en lien avec la sortie du livre « Dreams of Diamonds », une œuvre sur ces joyaux uniques. Les artistes Alastair Laidlaw et Christine Marsden ont pris plus de six ans à concevoir ce recueil aux images exquises qui présente les plus beaux diamants du monde. Produit en édition limitée, le livre a été présenté au public pour la première fois en février 2014 lors de l’événement « Diamonds for Life » qui a eu lieu au Palais Royal Historique : Royal Paleis op de Meir à Anvers, en Belgique.

Le pouvoir des « nouveaux riches » Une nouvelle tendance gagne du terrain. Bien que les marques soient depuis fort longtemps un excellent indicateur de richesse, le phénomène d’exposition des marques prend une importance démesurée chez les nouveaux riches. Dans son plus récent livre « The Bling Dinasty : Why the Reign of Chinese Luxury Shoppers Has Only Just Begun », Erwan Rambourg, directeur général de HSBC, a écrit que « Les marques achetées sont actuellement plus importantes que le niveau d’argent gagné ». Cependant, les marques de luxe qui seraient devenues trop accessibles perdent du terrain chez les consommateurs les plus nantis.

Boucles d'oreilles « Sail », 836 diamants: 36.05 tcw, titanium. Gracieuseté de Adler Joailliers. Photo par Robert Weldon; © GIA

Nouvelle équipe des ventes chez Scott Kay Bruce Lake et Cathy Marsh ont été nommés directeurs régionaux des ventes par Frederick Goldman Inc., qui a acquis Scott Kay un peu plus tôt cette année. Cathy Marsh a travaillé quelques années chez Tacori et David Yurman, et plus récemment chez Tag Heuer. De son côté, Bruce Lake était directeur des ventes pour Forevermark. Il a également travaillé auprès des détaillants indépendants et des marques de luxe telles Rolex, David Yurman et Hearts on Fire. Selon le vice-président senior des ventes Joseph Green, « ces récentes nominations marquent une étape importante du positionnement de la marque Scott Kay dans le futur ».

Simplex Diam achète les stocks de Martin Ross Simplex Diam Inc. of New York a annoncé le lundi 6 avril qu’elle a acquis l’actif des stocks de bijoux détenu par Martin Ross Group of Canada lors de la vente aux enchères. La valeur totale de la transaction s’élève à plus de 11 millions de dollars pour environ 16 000 bijoux, dont le prix coûtant se situe entre 500 $ et 10 000 $ par unité. À la fin de 2014, Simplex Diam avait également acheté de Martin Ross un stock de diamants non sertis – dont plusieurs étaient d’origine canadienne – évalué à environ 5 millions de dollars.

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CJ en français

Le projet Renard est toujours sur la bonne voie

Un diamant de 63 carats découvert en Angola

Malgré les températures froides de l’hiver 2014-2015, le projet se poursuit selon l’échéancier. Ainsi, les premiers minerais sont attendus à l’usine de traitement au deuxième semestre de 2016 et la production commerciale est prévue pour le deuxième trimestre de 2017. Le coût total prévu demeure dans les limites du budget de 811 millions $, entièrement financé. Stornoway détient en propriété exclusive le projet diamantifère Renard. Ayant son siège social à Montréal, elle est l’une des plus importantes sociétés canadiennes d’exploration et de mise en valeur de propriétés diamantifères.

Lors d’extractions alluviales à son champ diamantifère Lulo en Angola, Lucapa Diamond Company a découvert un « exceptionnel » diamant de 63,05 carats de type IIa. Bien que deux autres diamants – totalisant 131,40 carats et 95,45 carats – aient aussi été découverts au cours d’échantillonnage en vrac sur le site, il s’agit du plus gros diamant extrait depuis que la compagnie a commencé ses opérations d’exploitation minière en janvier dernier, à la suite d’une entente signée en novembre 2014.

Christie's Hong Kong, diamant rose taille poire de 9,38 carats

Ode à la vie de tous les jours avec Pandora À l’approche de la fête des Mères, la compagnie Pandora a misé sur une campagne faisant honneur à la créatrice qui se trouve à l’intérieur de chaque femme. « The Art of You », un message axé sur le fait que les bijoux sont un moyen pour les femmes d’exprimer leur personnalité et leur style, a été lancé à travers le Canada et les États-Unis. Elles pourront jouer d’audace, notamment à travers une nouvelle collection de bagues, mais aussi avec la collection de la fête des Mères composée de boucles d’oreilles, de colliers, de pendentifs, de bracelets et de breloques. Par ailleurs, Pandora a annoncé le lancement de sa plateforme de commerce en ligne pour les États-Unis.

Bagues PANDORA, Tropical Palm Ring; Cosmic Stars Clear CZ Ring; Always Clear CZ Ring; Birthday Blooms Ring, May Chrysoprase; Intricate Lattice Ring; Birthday Blooms Ring, December Turquoise; Swirling Snake Clear CZ Ring (S.V.P., visitez www.pandora.net pour vos achats ou pour obtenir la liste des détaillants)

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Les célébrités influencent la popularité des pierres précieuses Depuis quelques années, de nombreuses pierres précieuses mises aux oubliettes refont surface et certaines se trouvent même propulsées au premier rang. D’entre elles, la morganite figure dans le palmarès. En effet, les tendances mode et les célébrités ont une grande influence sur le monde des pierres précieuses. De toute évidence, la morganite a grandement profité de la popularité grandissante du rose, et du fait que Pantone a nommé « Marsala » comme couleur de l’année 2015. Cependant, l’événement déclencheur daterait de 2002, lors des fiançailles très médiatisées de Jennifer Lopez et Ben Affleck, où le diamant rose Harry Winston de 6,1 carats avait largement attiré l’attention. Aujourd’hui, la morganite se vend comme jamais, et elle est souvent choisie comme pierre centrale pour les bagues de fiançailles.

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Crédit photo: Sébastien D’Amour

L’École de Joaillerie de Montréal : un atelier devenu une école L’année dernière a été une grande année pour l’École de Joaillerie de Montréal. Lieu de naissance d’un nombre spectaculaire d’idées, de projets et de collaborations internationales, l’école y célébrait son 40e anniversaire. French Feature

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Catherine Sheedy, commissaire de l’exposition; aussi artiste, joaillière et pédagogue Crédit photo: Sébastien D’Amour

Pour célébrer ce tournant, l’École de Joaillerie de Montréal a organisé une exposition rétrospective afin d’encourager et de promouvoir ses fondateurs, maîtres et finissants, mais aussi pour renforcer son rôle culturel dans la communauté.

Quatre décennies d’histoire L’histoire de cette école de joaillerie a commencé en 1973, alors que Madeleine Dansereau et Armand Brochard – deux joailliers provenant de différentes sphères – ont créé un centre de formation unique et distinct au Québec : l’Atelier de Joaillerie. En plus de la passion qu’on leur connaît, il fallait beaucoup d’audace pour plonger dans cette aventure. Il s’agissait de la première école-atelier dédiée entièrement à l’apprentissage de l’art et de la science derrière la fabrication des bijoux. Mais leur projet a rapidement fait ses preuves et en moins de deux ans, ils ont déménagé dans un endroit plus grand. Plus tard, en 1982, l’Atelier de Joaillerie est devenu l’École de joaillerie et de métaux d’art de Montréal. En 1989, le Ministère de l’Éducation du Québec a mis sur pied le premier programme Techniques des métiers d’arts et l’école, en affiliation avec le Cégep du Vieux-Montréal, a accueilli la première cohorte de cégépiens. Madeleine Dansereau et Armand Brochard étaient reconnus pour leur éducation de haut niveau en fabrication de bijoux et leur grande habileté d’enseignement, et en assuraient la promotion. C’est ainsi que leur programme a obtenu une reconnaissance à travers la communauté des arts de Montréal et du Québec. Connue aujourd’hui sous le nom d’École de Joaillerie de Montréal, plus de 400 étudiants la fréquentent chaque année, et elle est la seule à offrir une formation complète. En effet, les étudiants sont divisés en trois groupes entre la formation continue, la formation collégiale et le perfectionnement.

Du talent et des idées

portée aux détails et de son expertise technique. Pendant l’Expo 67, il a été le créateur de sculptures et de bijoux que le gouvernement du Québec a présentés à la Reine Élizabeth II, Madame de Gaulle et les chefs d’État en visite à Montréal. Armand Brochard a également joué un rôle important en élevant le Salon des métiers d’arts du Québec au rang des marchésexpositions de niveau international.

Née à Montréal, Madeleine Dansereau est considérée comme une des premières femmes à être devenue une joaillière au Québec. Les métaux la fascinaient : elle aimait leur aspect en constante évolution et la façon dont elle pouvait transposer leur beauté aux humains. Madeleine Dansereau est la créatrice de l’insigne de l’Ordre national du Québec, un prix remis à des personnes d’exception pour leur contribution au rayonnement du Québec. En 1987, le ministère des Affaires culturelles l’a mandatée, ainsi que 7 autres artistes, pour réfléchir sur les propositions d’un projet de loi concernant la reconnaissance des artistes. Armand Brochard, un joaillier belge, est arrivé au Canada en 1957. La qualité exceptionnelle de son travail résultait de sa méticuleuse attention

L’École de Joaillerie de Montréal offre une formation de haute qualité, en grande partie grâce à la diversité des professeurs. Depuis le premier jour, l’école a bénéficié de leur expertise. Au fil des ans, les formations qu’ils ont reçues dans diverses institutions internationales ont contribué au développement de leurs connaissances. Le processus artistique de chaque professeur est unique, ce qui apporte une approche différente et une plusvalue à l’école. Parmi les professeurs, on retrouve Georges Delrue, Antoine Lamarche, Georges Schwartz, Louis-Jacques Suzor, Christine Larochelle, Lynn Légaré et Pierre-Yves Paquette.

Donner au suivant

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Les résultats Les artisans diplômés de l’École de Joaillerie de Montréal sont formés par des joailliers-maîtres qui leur apprennent comment stimuler leur créativité et parfaire leur art, et qui comprennent que l’ouverture d’esprit et l’amour du métier sont les éléments-clés pour produire un travail exceptionnel. Plusieurs des finissants ont reçu des prix et des honneurs, en plus d’avoir participé à des expositions de calibre international. Les créations de Josée Desjardins, Anne Fauteux, Aliza Amihude, Gabrielle Desmarais, Sylvie Mourocq, Lawrence Woodford et Esty Grossman, pour ne nommer que ces artistes, font partie de l’exposition qui célébrait le 40e anniversaire de l’école. Afin de mettre en place ce spectacle anniversaire, la commissaire de l’exposition, Catherine Sheedy, avait pour mission d’assembler les projets qui reflétaient le développement de l’institution à travers les années. Étant ellemême artiste et joaillière, Catherine Sheedy a travaillé en étroite collaboration avec des collectionneurs, des musées et un jury spécial – composé de la tisserande Louise Lemieux Bérubé, de la tailleuse et orfèvre Chantal Gilbert, et de l’historienne d’art Valérie Côté – afin de sélectionner les travaux qui seraient présentés lors de l’exposition rétrospective. Première exposition rétrospective à être présentée au Musée des maîtres et artisans du Québec, l’événement qui a eu lieu à l’automne dernier a attiré plus de 2600 visiteurs. Plus tard en décembre, l’école a été invitée à exposer au Salon des métiers d’art de Montréal, une occasion fantastique de présenter au public les gens et les créations qui contribuent au rayonnement de l’école depuis maintenant plus de 40 ans. CJ

Crédit photo: Sébastien D’Amour

Crédit photo: Sébastien D’Amour

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FOR INQUIRIES CONTACT steelx@paj.ca

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How does light affect the way my diamond looks? by Kristin A. Aldridge

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From left: These diamonds display high, moderate and low brightness under fluorescent light. Photos by Eric Welch/GIA

IF YOU’VE EVER WONDERED WHY YOUR DIAMOND looks different in sunlight versus candlelight or daylight versus office lights, it’s because the cut of your diamond responds differently depending on the light and the environment you are in. How – and where – you look at your diamond can greatly change its appearance. Al Gilbertson, a GIA researcher, says if you think of a diamond like “a series of mirrors reflecting its environment,” it can help you understand how light and location can change the way your diamond appears. When you look at your diamond, you are also seeing a reflection of the surrounding environment, including yourself. “Often times, the dark parts of the pattern you see in a diamond are a reflection of your face, or the camera – if you’re looking at a photograph,” Gilbertson says. “You can test this yourself. Hold the diamond at arm’s length and look at how bright it is and how the pattern of dark and light appears. Now, gradually bring it closer to your eye. By the time it gets very close, the area of dark pattern in the diamond has grown and is much more prominent.” “This all means that in every different location you look at your diamond, this ‘series of mirrors’ is reflecting not only the environment, but also you. How close you hold it, and the environment you are in, affects the pattern you see.”

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GIA’s Diamond Cut Grading system for round brilliant diamonds includes seven components: brightness, fire, scintillation, weight ratio, durability, polish and symmetry. Fire is well illustrated in these loose diamonds that range in size from 2 to 3.03 carats. Photo by Harold & Erica Van Pelt/ GIA

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GIA’s Diamond Cut Grading system for round brilliant diamonds includes seven components: brightness, fire, scintillation, weight ratio, durability, polish and symmetry. Fire is well illustrated in these loose diamonds that range in size from 2 to 3.03 carats. Photo by Harold & Erica Van Pelt/ GIA

When it comes to the 4Cs of GIA’s Diamond Grading System – colour, clarity, cut and carat weight – cut is often the least understood because there are so many components considered in the cut grade. The first three – brightness, fire and scintillation – describe the diamond’s appearance. The remaining four components – weight ratio, durability, polish and symmetry – describe the design and craftsmanship. Each cut grade – excellent, very good, good, fair and poor – represents a range of proportion sets and diamond appearances. There is no single set that defines a well-cut round brilliant diamond – many different proportions can produce attractive diamonds, which should be bright, fiery, sparkling and have a pleasing overall appearance, especially when the pattern of bright and dark areas is viewed face up, Gilbertson says. GIA’s Diamond Cut Grading System for standard round brilliant diamonds in the D-to-Z colour scale and the Flawless-to-I3 clarity range provides an objective assessment of a diamond’s overall cut quality. GIA studied diamond cut for decades and analyzed tens of thousands of proportion sets before the system was introduced in 2005. It had to be scientific, but also practical and applicable to the jewellery industry and public. There were more than 70,000 observations of 2,300 diamonds in studies conducted across all sectors of the jewellery industry – diamond manufacturers, dealers, retailers and potential customers. Diamonds graded in GIA’s laboratories are examined in standardized and calibrated environments – scales for carat weight, optical measuring

equipment for all of the diamond’s proportions, light for colour grading and 10X loupes for clarity, polish and symmetry help ensure consistency and objective grading. Most people won’t ever see the diamond in a laboratory, so what type of lighting is best when purchasing a diamond? Gilbertson encourages you to look at the diamond in the type of lighting you will most typically wear it. GIA’s Cut Grade System offers a description based on research and what most people prefer. But Gilbertson likes to remind people that diamonds are more than that. “Diamonds and jewellery are very personal,” he says. “People buy jewellery for themselves or receive it as a gift for a specific reason, often to celebrate a special occasion. Choose what you like and what looks best in your opinion. Then, enjoy the adventure of learning all the different appearances your diamond can have.” CJ

Kristin A. Aldridge, a writer at GIA, is a graduate of GIA’s Pearls and Accredited Jewelry Professional programs.

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Glittering deception Synthetic diamonds: opportunity or threat? by Sarah B. Hood

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IN THE KINGDOM OF SYNTHETIC DIAMONDS, doubt and confusion reign. This relatively new technology has been embraced by some retailers, while others shun it, and the general consumer public doesn’t know much about it at all. First, some definitions. Cubic zirconia and moissanite are not synthetic diamonds. Synthetic or lab-created diamonds are usually made by subjecting graphite to extreme heat and pressure, a process called High Pressure, High Temperature (HPHT). There is an alternate process, which involves “growing” a diamond by exposing seed material to carboniferous gas in extreme heat. The first synthetic diamonds were created by General Electric in the 1950s, and most synthetic stones are destined for industrial uses; however, they are increasingly being used in jewellery. Russia, Singapore, Malaysia and the U.S. are the world’s major producers of synthetic diamonds for the jewellery industry. Although some experienced diamond industry professionals may find it hard to accept this fact, lab-created diamonds are identical to natural diamonds at the molecular level, and possess the same degrees of hardness and transparency. Although one can never underestimate the gut instinct of a professional, it is simply not possible to definitively identify a synthetic diamond with the naked eye or a loupe. In a 2012 article in Gems & Gemology, researcher Kirk Feral explained that electronic diamond testers, which measure thermal conductivity, also “cannot distinguish natural from lab-grown diamonds.” Some of the tools that can be used in a laboratory setting to tell the difference are spectrometers, microscopes, polariscopes and UV lamps, but only, he writes, “if one knows how to use them and interpret the results.”

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The only way to get close to a scientific analysis outside lab conditions is with a handheld magnet—but even this technique is not infallible. Feral tested 104 synthetic diamonds from nine different manufacturing sources; his research showed that “of the HPHT-grown synthetic samples tested, 58 per cent registered a detectable magnetic response. Strong N52grade neodymium magnets were able to detect 35 per cent more HPHT synthetics than traditional ferrite and alnico magnets. CVD-grown synthetic diamonds showed no magnetic attraction.” Only two of the 168 natural diamonds he tested as a control showed magnetic attraction; these two had large opaque inclusions. Recently, India’s commerce ministry has begun to move towards a better understanding of the differences between natural and synthetic diamonds, following alarms about undisclosed lab-made diamonds circulating in shipments with natural diamonds. A recent article by Sugata Ghosh for India’s Economic Times points out that synthetic diamonds are valued at 50 per cent to 70 per cent the price of natural diamonds. He cites an alarming report from the consultancy firm AT Kearney for the Gems and Jewellery Export Promotion Council, which found that “600 of 1,000 diamonds submitted to the International Gemological Institute in May 2012 turned out to be synthetic.” “It creates a lot of nervousness in people who are selling natural diamonds,” says Gul Tukrel, president of Gemsparkle Ltd. “It doesn’t give a good image to the trade, because it creates so much doubt in the consumer’s mind.” “I don’t want to knock synthetic diamonds,” says certified diamond grader Sevan Titizian, sales and marketing manager at GemCorp Ltd. “If there’s a demand for diamonds, but the earth will only produce so many,

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maybe this is the alternative. You have to stop and think what’s better for the environment, and what’s better for job creation.” And some companies, like San Francisco-based Brilliant Earth, have embraced the possibilities of synthetic diamonds. Brilliant Earth deals mainly in wedding jewellery, and since 2012 has been offering synthetic diamonds to a clientele motivated by ethical and environmental considerations. “Brilliant Earth is the global leader in ethical sourcing,” says Director of Marketing Jaimie Herrmann. The company only deals in stones that are “beyond conflict-free, and as free of environmental degradation as possible with any mining process. We also donate 5 per cent of profits to communities that have been negatively impacted by the jewellery industry, and all of our fine jewellery is handcrafted from 100 per cent recycled precious metals,” she says. Some of her clientele is seeking these ethical benefits, she says; others are simply intrigued by the novelty of this high-tech alternative. “Awareness has been growing over the last two years, and there have been advances in the technology. Previously you would only have found lab-created diamonds in smaller carat weights; now, it’s not uncommon to find them in the 1-carat range,” Herrmann says. Brilliant Earth works with synthetic stones up to 3.05 carats. But natural diamonds are in no danger from synthetic competition. “We don’t see them as eclipsing natural diamonds, but they are a great alternative,” says Hermann. “Jewellery consumers want natural or organic things that are real,” says Titizian. “To me, it’s like the difference between having a really great picture of the sunset or actually seeing the sunset with your own eyes.” CJ

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Model wearing HIllberg & Berk jewellery

The store that never closes

The pros and cons of e-commerce and online retailing by Liza Marley

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Sauro Italia Gioielli Oltre bracelets

wellery

CUSTOMERS VISIT DAY AND NIGHT. They browse. They compare prices. They come back two, three or four times per day. Some of them commit and purchase; others will return another day for yet another look. This is e-commerce and it never stops. As Johnny Sapir of Sauro Italia Gioielli Oltre defines it, e-commerce is “anybody, anywhere, anytime.” Essentially, this is your marketplace. Only a decade ago, e-commerce barely had traction in any industry. It certainly wasn’t where the jewellery business had its edge. It was in its infancy and brick-and-mortar jewellery stores still regarded the relationship between sales person and customer as the integral part of the transaction to seal the deal and to develop a loyal, repeat client. Buying a luxury item like jewellery online seemed too risky for consumers; they wanted to touch, hold, try on – and even more, they wanted that trusted relationship with their sales person to support the purchase and to let them know that they were making the right decision. Since then, the momentum has picked up substantially. The Internet has dramatically changed the way people shop. They’re able to educate themselves and easily compare prices and quality. They can research brands and find out an astounding amount of information about any product without getting up from their chair. They can shop at a time when they’re not rushed. They’re at home, in their comfort zone and without a sales person in front of them; they aren’t feeling the immediacy to make their purchase. Rachel Mielke first started in e-commerce in 2005. In 2007, she launched Hillberg & Berk and soon after, she opened up her first brick-and-mortar location in Regina. While she notes that her business found its stronghold in 2013, in the last 12 months, sales on her e-commerce site have increased by 500 per cent.

Mielke found that the growth on her website had a lot to do with a comprehensive and well-planned online strategy. The key to success, she realized, lies in combining strategic targeting, use of keywords, Search Engine Optimization (SEO), and a strong social media presence – all in conjunction with traditional advertising. “Social media is as important as answering the phone and emails,” she explains. It is a great way to engage people and create brand affinity. There is direct contact and an intimacy of direct communication when social media is managed properly. “Unless you do things properly, no one will see [your site].” Sapir notes that it’s the trusted referral from social media that also extends a company’s reach – images on Instagram being a perfect example of that. Marketing creates awareness, and that awareness is what brings traffic to your website. “Marketing and technology are the two largest capital expenses, by far,” explains Josh Marion, director of business development at Ritani. The marketing investment is much like investing in a prime location for firstrate foot traffic. But unlike foot traffic, a website isn’t limited to a local area. Reaching potential clients knows no bounds online. You can extend your business nationally and internationally. In fact, Sapir finds that international e-commerce can be of great benefit because of the varying tax implications from one country to another. The international marketplace of e-commerce also means that someone may see something they like in a brick-and-mortar store and leave without committing to the purchase but they’re able to easily access the product even after they’ve gone. People are ready to shop online. “Ten to 15 years ago, you were the lone wolf. Now, it’s a different consumer. They’re more willing to take a chance,” explains Sapir. “Comfort and competence levels have moved up.”

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Clockwise: Ritani e-commerce site, wedding bands, engagement rings

Marion also adds that people “trust the device and trust putting in their credit card number.” They don’t just want to shop from their computers either. Mielke finds that over 50 per cent of her traffic comes from phones and tablets, which means that ensuring your e-commerce site functions across all platforms is very important. In fact, a vital aspect of successful e-commerce, Mielke explains, “is to have consistency in the brand story,” no matter what the consumer’s point of contact is. Function and style – even colours and fonts – should be in harmony from the brick-and-mortar to the website and mobile site. Easy navigation, excellent design and great photography will definitely either make or break a consumer’s experience. Although the growth of e-commerce has been substantial in the past decade, it still has limitations when it comes to the luxury and ultra-luxury sectors. “An engagement ring is still one of those things where only 10 per cent of people will buy online,” says Marion. “And higher price items are still sold more in-store.” The consumer, he explains, “is more willing to take a chance, but after the $2,000 price point, it’s harder.” The expenses and overhead online are very different from brick-and-mortar stores. Marion explains that there is no need to maintain a fancy, premium retail space in a mall or stand-alone location with great foot traffic. There are no sales people with a salary and commission. Managing stock and not carrying

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extensive inventory also lightens the investment, but online retailing does carry its own list of expenses. Selling jewellery online faces the challenge of making sure consumers actually find the site. People need to be led to your site with the help of strong marketing tactics. E-commerce demands great marketing with a strong knowledge of how to develop brand affinity and customer loyalty without face-to-face interaction. A website also has to empower the customer to shop with confidence, minimize a feeling of risk that comes with shopping for a big-ticket luxury item that they’ve never held or tried on and that will come through a delivery service. This is mitigated to some degree by offering easy and no-hassle return policies. There is confidence knowing that it’s easy to undo if the purchase turns out not to be exactly what the consumer wanted. One of the drawbacks for retailers, says Marion, “is not being able to interact with the consumer.” The information gathered from a consumer is important. “Online, you don’t get to discuss trends, get feedback.” Instead, you need to rely more on market research and make a point of listening in – from your website’s analytics to the social media buzz. It’s a new marketplace and a new way of retailing. With the right tools and approach, your store never has to close and consumers will keep coming back for their next purchase. E-commerce has definitely taken its place in the jewellery market. CJ

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Rachel Mielke, founder of Hillberg & Berk

Model wearing Hillberg & Berk jewellery

From left to right: Hillberg & Berk Zonobia Necklace, Miriam Necklace, Arabesque Necklace

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Designer Profile

From a dream to reality This designer makes a “statement” with jewellery pieces that capture the beauty found all around us by Irina Lytchak

Jenna Iannelli

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Clockwise: Allure Collection Marylyn earrings, Renaissance Collection Muse earrings, Allure Collection Flower bracelet, Allure Collection Chloe bracelet

CREATING JEWELLERY MAY HAVE STARTED AS A COPING mechanism for Jenna Iannelli but today she calls it a full-time job and the best one she could have chosen at that. Back in 2008, Iannelli went through a difficult period in her life, having to care for her ill father, and in the process, she needed to find an outlet to cope with both her own and her family’s emotional struggles. “I started playing with jewellery with a gemmologist friend of mine, and it just relaxed me,” she says. “I loved it and I grew this greater passion for it. Caring for my dad and having to see someone so close to you dying just pushed me to follow my dream and live life to the fullest.” Eventually, that dream became Valentine Rouge; Iannelli’s jewellery line consisting of statement pieces that are meant to be worn with something as casual as a white tee and a pair of jeans or something as elegant and classy as a little black dress for a night out on the town. The designer explains that the meaning behind the name is quite simple; with much of it being inspired by her father. “I said to myself, ‘I’m going to do this for my dad,’ and that’s why it means ‘red heart,” she explains. “[My father] had heart disease for 13 years and that’s why I called it Valentine Rouge. I love hearts and Valentine’s Day and the whole feminine sensuality thing — that’s me as well.” Valentine Rouge is comprised of three very distinct collections; Allure,

Spirit, and Renaissance and Iannelli prides her one-of-a-kind jewellery pieces on being professionally hand-crafted in Canada, with some parts even flown in from Italy, which has always been synonymous with quality. “Allure is boldly chic, luxurious, opulent, and glamorous,” she says. “It can be worn casually or on the red carpet. I’m so in love with today’s trend of wearing a statement necklace with a casual tee and jeans, or a bold bracelet with a fabulous sweat top.” Iannelli explains that she found inspiration for the Allure collection in the art and architecture of the Baroque era. “It was very ornate and lavish but then I try to create the pieces with a modern take on it. I tone it down,” she says. The second line of jewellery under the Valentine Rouge brand is Spirit. Unlike Allure, this collection is all about the bohemian-chic image. “It’s made with real precious stones and gemstones, whereas Allure is made mainly using Swarovski crystals.” When working on this collection, the designer spends a lot of time actually searching for and selecting the assortment of gemstones she finds at various jewellery shows as well as on her personal travels. Last but not least, the Renaissance collection exudes classic beauty and old-world charm yet stays up-to-date with current trends. Iannelli’s desire to revive the elegance and grace of the Renaissance and Baroque eras into a modern and feminine vibe is reflected in these designs.

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“I’m not much of a beach person, so I love traveling to cities and exploring their history, art and architecture; both old and modern. Oftentimes when I do shows, clients will ask me, ‘What does this represent?’ They want a story, so I put my own spin to it. I’ll combine the right colours and then I’ll add my own touch to it.” When it comes to gemstones, Iannelli doesn’t limit herself, having used everything from labradorite, chalcedony and quartz to opal, blue sapphire and amethyst in her designs. “I like to work with so many because I love colour,” she says. “I probably work with about 20 different types. I hand pick all of the stones myself and I love placing different colours and shapes that work beautifully together to create unique pieces which express my sense of style; feminine to the core, Neo-Baroque, elegant and timeless.” And while Iannelli’s designs are driven by much of her personal style and taste, she admits to always keeping one eye open to current trends in order to know what colours are in season. “I would say 75 per cent of my designs are driven by me and then 25 per cent are lightly influenced by fashion trends,” she explains. “What I do look for every season are colours, and I might introduce a couple of those along with the classics.” What started out as a hobby now takes up most of Iannelli’s time and she couldn’t be happier about it. “I started off in a workshop, making my first necklace, and I didn’t think much of it,” she recalls. “But then, just like a lot of designers, I started making what people wanted.” Having studied interior design at the International Academy of Design & Technology in Toronto as well as carrying a business background under her belt have both been pluses for Iannelli on her jewellery-making journey. “I pour beauty and passion into every one of my creations and they are as unique as every woman’s heart,” says Iannelli. “I believe a woman transforms herself when wearing jewellery; she appears more confident, more beautiful, and more put together – ready to take on the world! When I see that sparkle in their eyes when trying on my pieces, I feel I have done my job.” CJ Clockwise: Renaissance Collection Veronica necklace with pink onyx, Allure Collection Victoria necklace, Spirit Collection Harmony necklace in labradorite, Renaissance Collection Pearl Charm necklace

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Model wearing pieces from the Allure collection

“I pour beauty and passion into every one of my creations and they are as unique as every woman’s heart.” J U N E /J U L Y 2 0 1 5

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Quality is key

After over a decade in business, Nova Diamonds continues to enjoy success by bringing the highest standard of craftsmanship to the Canadian jewellery industry by Irina Lytchak

Company Profile

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WHEN IT COMES TO RUNNING A SUCCESSFUL JEWELLERY BUSINESS, Michael Sapir stands by three key principles: offer a wide selection of pieces to suit different tastes, always carry staple pieces that are constantly in demand, and have a solid understanding of diamonds and jewellery design. Seeing as Sapir has mastered all three after being in this industry for over 30 years, it’s no wonder that Nova Diamonds has established a highly acclaimed reputation for itself in Canada as well as overseas. “The key for us is to offer variety when we sell jewellery,” says Sapir. “Because the market is so small, the consumer really doesn’t want their next-door neighbour to have the same piece. That’s why we decided to take a different turn from other brands and offer people product that’s not overlapping with others. We are catering to the same client with many different needs and that’s why we needed to be a little bit different from the way business is normally run.” Sapir established Nova Diamonds in 1999 in order to offer a wide selection of specially cut diamonds and loose stones of the utmost quality to wholesalers and retailers in the Canadian jewellery industry. But the truly unique aspect of Nova Diamonds was that its diamonds could be purchased by the millimetre. “When we started Nova, we figured that we could change the way the diamond business normally works,” explains Sapir. “We wanted to service people that needed small goods by the millimetre. The idea behind it was to simplify the process for the retailers as well as the wholesalers so that they didn’t need to buy large amounts of diamonds.”

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JEWELLERY GAME Shortly after its inception, Nova Diamonds began to offer jewellery pieces in addition to lose diamonds. Sapir saw an opportunity to tap into a niche market of high-end and exquisitely hand-crafted jewellery pieces. In no time, his designs and craftsmanship began to rival those of some of the most prestigious jewellery houses in Europe. “The reason we did that is because we were already working with diamonds and I saw a large gap in pricing between what brands were charging at different shows and what we could provide to our clients,” says Sapir. “In my personal travels to Italy, I saw a lot of beautiful jewellery pieces and I also saw that also we could not only compete in pricing — we could compete in quality as well.” Eventually, Sapir was able to source out mountings from Italian manufacturers and began selling his own product in Toronto. The first jewellery pieces that were created under the Nova Diamonds name would soon become high in demand and today, the company offers its clientele an extensive catalogue listing of its numerous designs. “We’re different from the large Italian jewellery houses because we don’t have that one signature look,” says Sapir. “Instead, we’re always trying to find what’s trendy, what’s in today, and what the customers are buying. That’s why we have many different looks — the best of many different ideas.”

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THE TRUTH IS IN THE TALENT The design and ingenuity behind each piece of jewellery that Nova Diamonds produces is what sets this player apart from others in the industry. Sapir, who is responsible for many of the company’s innovative designs, credits his knowledge to years of travel and experience within the industry. “I’ve been fortunate enough to have the opportunity to travel and to see what’s going on in the world,” he says. “You cannot teach a person to have a knack for design; it’s something that has to already be there. I have no formal background but over the years, it all came from experience and I’ve been trying to put it to use in the way that I know how. I believe that it’s like anything else in life — the more you travel, the more you experience; the more you see, the more you learn.” A client purchasing jewellery from Nova Diamonds knows that they are purchasing quality because each piece takes about three days to create as opposed to several hours. Sapir says that designing a ring is a far more complex process than one might think, requiring a thorough understanding of how to take the design from a sketch to a finished model. “It’s not as simple as just buying as [CAD/CAM] machine; there are many limitations,” he says. “Every diamond is really different. And you have to understand how to create a design that will make the best possible ring — a small change can make a big difference. And there is a huge difference between someone who knows how to use these programs and machines and a designer. A designer has some sort of understanding and vision of what the finished product is going to look like.”

Sapir notes that while many jewellery designs may look very beautiful once they are created, some designers oftentimes do not take into account the wearability factor of a piece. “Because of my experience in the business, I’m able to detect what the shortcomings are of certain designs,” he says. “Aside from the look of a piece, I’m also making sure the client is comfortable wearing it. It has to make sense.”

AS SOLID AS A DIAMOND Sapir plans to continue to market Nova Diamonds as a diamond supplier while educating consumers on the standards of high quality stones. “We’re going to implement new ways in servicing our clients when it comes to diamonds,” he says. “I think that today, there are a lot of people that are in the business to just sell diamonds, and that’s a serious problem. I think that when you’re offering diamonds to people, you have to be really subjective. You have to be careful about how you present the diamonds and we really care about the way we do this.” Today, clients know that they can rely on Nova Diamonds for high-quality diamonds and jewellery that has been created with the utmost precision. Sapir’s knowledge of this costly stone as well as his innate talent when it comes to jewellery design have solidified Nova Diamonds’ reputation in the Canadian jewellery industry. “Our advantage,” he says, “is that we truly understand diamonds and jewellery.” CJ

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Emeralds: the “cool” gems Gemmology

Emeralds are really cool gems. When I say they’re cool, I mean that in several different ways — we’ll briefly explore some of those meanings here. by Duncan Parker

IN THE SENSE of temperature, green is a “cool” colour compared to the “hot” red of a ruby. Emerald is the green variety of the mineral beryl. An emerald can only be green, so by that logic, if it isn’t green, it’s not an emerald. When it comes to our emotions, green is generally considered to be a calming colour and emeralds are historically seen as gems that can bring a relaxed equilibrium to their wearer. According to historical records, Emperor Nero was perfectly calm as he watched Rome burn down. The reason for that? He was watching the conflagration through an emerald. (Some say he set the fire, so that could have something to do with his calmness, too). Nero was also known to use his emerald for watching gladiator fights. Maybe they should issue emeralds to the audiences watching UFC matches? Emeralds have a very rich history. Many of the emeralds found in ancient times came from a site in Egypt that was often referred to as Cleopatra’s emerald mine. The mine, Wadi Sikait, was likely the world’s first emerald mine. Cleopatra was said to have been a great admirer of the gem, and while we do know where the mine was located, we don’t know where Cleopatra’s own emeralds have disappeared to. (Maybe she gave them all away and perhaps Nero ended up with one of them?) Emeralds are cut in many different forms. They are most commonly faceted but are also cut as cabochons, and in some cases even carved. A number of very famous emeralds are carved with decorative textures, and some feature words, names, or inscriptions. Emeralds are found in many parts of the world, which is also a very cool factor. The most famous source for these stones is Colombia, as well as Brazil, Russia, and India. Other sources that are perhaps less well known include Pakistan, Afghanistan, Zimbabwe, Tajikistan, Australia, and even Canada’s very own Yukon.

In many cases, emeralds are mined in a small artisanal way. Smallscale mining often brings substantial benefits to the local economy. Some countries like Colombia prohibit for most emeralds to be exported in their unpolished form – polished emeralds are worth much more per carat than the equivalent rough gems. There is a higher return for the local economy if the stones are cut in Colombia before being sent off across the border. Because Colombia remains the best-known source for these precious stones, people are willing to pay more for gems with such a famous origin. Emeralds are also cool because of their rich and vibrant green colour. While they come in a range of green shades, the finest emeralds possess a brilliant medium green with a slight touch of blue. A light or really dark colour may have less impact but can still be quite beautiful. Whatever its tone, the colour of an emerald is unlike that of any other gem. As a gemmologist, I often find myself peering through a microscope to get a closer look at the different gems I come across. Emeralds offer up some of the most interesting and “cool” internal features, which are also known as inclusions. These include shiny, yellow, metallic pyrite crystal inclusions or colourless, rhombohedral calcite inclusions. The possibilities are endless. It’s exceedingly rare to find an emerald that is completely clean to the eye. The characteristic inclusions are expected and are often referred to as “jardin” or garden. At auction, an emerald holds a very special place – it’s one of the three members of the coloured gems triumvirate, which also includes ruby and sapphire. Emeralds have always been very widely used in jewellery design, especially during the 1920s, 50s, and 80s. Perhaps now is the time for them to make their comeback? However, no matter where the gem industry will steer them, emeralds will always remain “cool.” CJ

Duncan Parker, FGA, FCGmA, CAP (CJA), has been an instructor of the gemstone course at Ryerson University, the Gemmology courses of George Brown College and Canadian Gemmological Association as well as instructor of the Master Valuer Program with the Canadian Jewellers Association. A renowned expert, he speaks regularly at international gem and jewellery conferences and symposiums, as well as at less formal events.

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2015-05-26 9:12 AM


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Dawn of the smartwatch The smartwatch phenomenon is on the rise but yet to take over the watch industry, which it likely never will. by Kuldip Rupra

Keeping Time

SIMILAR TO THE FUNCTION OF AN APP, the smartwatch can act as a great add-on to your existing smartphone. Just like a phone, the greater the use of these apps and functions is, the greater the battery drainage. This, in fact, is the greatest issue with the smartwatch. It has always been the norm to charge a mobile phone on a regular basis, but this is not exactly the norm for what we would refer to as a wristwatch. Even when you’re going from the fully automatic movement to a battery-operated quartz movements, battery life has always been an important factor. Typically, a quartz watch can last two to five years without ever requiring a battery change. Therefore, to create a watch that requires constant charging can seem excessive, especially to a watchmaker. Should both your watch and phone have drained batteries, you are now also without a time source. For all the time it takes a smartwatch to recharge, it no longer serves its purpose as a wristwatch, simply because it is no longer on your wrist. The user would otherwise be tethered to the wall as they continue to wear and charge their timepiece. Smartwatch users will definitely need to create a schedule that allows them to charge and use their watch at optimal times of the day. This may mean managing the use of some of their favourite apps, which in turn would diminish the ultimate use of the smartwatch. Most users will not be satisfied with a timepiece that will not see them through a regular workday and an evening of activities. The smartwatch does however, have one great function and that’s the ability to work as a health and fitness tool. The apps that offer workout metrics

and statistics will truly provide users with useful information. They also help in keeping up with notifications without having to actually view a phone. At the moment, a regular wristwatch is not considered a distraction in the workplace or while driving a vehicle because it’s simply used to verify the time. It will remain to be seen how distracting the smartwatch will become in our everyday lives. Moreover, will the same rules apply to it as those for mobile phones, both legally and socially? Will the small screen force even more users to squint their eyes at the small text? Smartphone screens seem to be growing in size for better app use, and it will be interesting to see if apps will provide the same or limited functions when it comes to the smartwatch. The largest price point we were able to come across for an Apple smartwatch with an 18k gold case was $10,000. What will the user feedback be, particularly for this kind of price point? Should a user expect more for a higher price? Will they be satisfied with the constant removal of their expensive timepiece from their wrist? Will this be the watch they pick up to wear while attending a formal event? Is a colourful battery-draining screen something users are truly looking to wear on their wrist? Does the convenience of having app notifications come to your wrist make up for the other hassles, especially since your smartphone has a much better battery life and is already on hand or nearby? Companies will continue to create and cram a large amount of information into a relatively small CPU while trying to constantly improve energy consumption. A successful product is one that takes innovation to a whole new level. CJ

Kuldip Rupra is a third-generation watchmaker with more than 40 years of experience. One million-plus watches have been serviced at his company, TimeRevolution.com. Kuldip is a member of the Canadian Jewellers Association and the American Watchmakers – Clockmakers Institute.

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Q & A special On Display

By spending quite a bit of time in jewellery stores, I get to overhear a lot of what’s said between and by retailers. Here are some of the most common remarks I’ve heard and questions I’ve received when it comes to jewellery displays. by Larry Johnson

MOST INDEPENDENT RETAIL JEWELLERS would rather visit their local dentist for a root canal than discuss replacing the displays found inside of their showcases. Displays are an expensive investment that to many storeowners, never seems to provide a measurable return. One of the most common questions I get is, “Can I just get these recovered? I’ve only had these for (X) years and they still look alright/good/ passable!” Or there are always remarks like, “I wish my staff would wear those cotton gloves I bought for them! How do I clean these things? Let’s get the firm we buy our bridal mountings from to send us some more new displays for free!” I sympathize with the implications behind these comments: no one wants to see money wasted. However, I think that some retailers are chasing false economies. In my experience, new displays implemented with a comprehensive, premeditated merchandising strategy typically pay for themselves in less than 90 days. Bridal cases return the investment even faster than that. If you are a display holdout storeowner, here are some straight answers to your common questions and concerns:

“Can I get these recovered?” No, you really can’t. After you rip the fabric and the assorted cardboard trim pieces off of your display, you’re left with the basic wood block. It’s about the least expensive part of the display. The worker will then have to rebuild the display with new materials and parts if he can handcraft them. The time this takes is the big factor here and even with some lower factory wages, the numbers just don’t work.

“I’ve only had these for (X) years and they still look alright/good/passable…” First, consider the business we are in. We sell luxury items that personify the love we feel for one another. For the self-purchaser, we facilitate the rewarding of the customer with a purchase they want for themselves. We are kidding ourselves if we think we can do that from a dirty, disheveled showcase full of elements that we bought in the 1980s. Do you really think a fashionable

woman is going to think of your store as her source of fashionable jewellery if your décor is stuck in the previous decade?

“How do I clean these things?” I recommend diluted “Simple Green” all-purpose cleaner. It’s great stuff. Mix two parts water to one part Simple Green and do not rub. Let the cleaner do the work itself. If you rub the leatherette, it will remove the varnish topcoat on the fabric and your displays will be toast.

“Let’s get the firm we buy our bridal mountings from to send us some new displays for free.” This sounds like a great idea at first and is acceptable if you have a designer boutique-type of store. However, if your own brand is important to you and you want to sell your own merchandise, you need beautiful displays that have your name (not your vendors’) showcased instead.

“Do we have any old displays in the back that will allow us to just get by?” I like a scavenger hunt as much as the next guy, but you should be very careful about style and colour. Colour has meaning for the average consumer. (Think red lights and pink ribbons.) Putting a black neck form into a beige showcase needs to mean something other than “we had it in the back.” If you have a supply of nice necks in storage, spread them out in the cases to highlight particular pieces. Make sure that the colours in your showcases always designate something. Whatever you do with your cases, do it for a reason. Have a plan (which is not just to sell more stuff). Be specific. What stuff do you want to sell more of? At what price point? How are you going to do it? Avoid the temptation to “just get it all into the showcase.” Present your selection to your customers and watch your sales and profits go up. Once they do, set aside some profits to order new trays. And don’t forget to take good care of your teeth to avoid those root canals. Trust me, I know from experience. CJ

Larry is the owner of Larry Johnson Consulting based in Colleyville, Texas. His firm works with independent jewellery retailers to help them increase profits by improving the presentation of their merchandise in their stores and it is affiliated with the EDGE Retail Academy. Larry can be reached via his website larryjohnsonconsulting.com, at 817-980-2135, or larry@larryjohnsonconsulting.com.

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2015-05-26 10:48 AM


Stand up for your selections! Retail Watch

Sell with as much conviction as when you buy by Todd Wasylyshyn

STATISTICS CANADA SUGGESTS THAT FOR EVERY 100,000 population you serve, you can expect 440 engagements per year. If you’re going after the bridal market, two recent developments have forever changed the way we sell engagement rings. First is the number of images available to consumers on the web. Google Images has 970,000 photos of diamond solitaire rings and another 961,000 of diamond halo rings. Throw in Instagram, Pinterest and other jewellery sites into the mix and the numbers quickly elevate to the millions. How do you stock enough designs to compete with that? Our desire to compete has led to the second new reality: the proliferation of semi-mount bridal lines. These programs have entered the market to offer good leverage. A modern jewellery retailer can afford to show many more designs than they could when every ring was live. This sounds like an effective hedge against the nearly infinite variety available on the Internet, no? There are two challenges with this new paradigm. Let’s say that including semi-mounts, you have 1,000 styles to offer and you sell 200 engagement rings per year. No matter how many you have, you may still not have the exact one in the photo your client is showing you, so some full-on custom work is still required — say maybe 10 per cent. If you watch TV, you’ll witness consumers customizing their homes, cars, wedding dresses and even their bodies. Consumers have been conditioned to seek personalization and this means that a certain percentage of the remaining 180 rings you sell will require you to special order one of those semi-mounts from the designer with a different sized feature diamond, a different shape of diamond or a different metal. Now you have maybe 100 of those 1,000 designs turning over per year. Yikes! I hope this doesn’t apply to you. Now, let’s get our head out of numbers and into reality. Consider your favourite clothing store. It’s team has literally shopped the world to select a few shirts, blouses, dresses, slacks, suits and accessories to carry in the store out of the tens of thousands that appeared on a runway or in a tradeshow. You go to that store because you find things you like. They

seem to “get you,” or you always really like the way their mannequins are dressed. Well, you have to do that with your jewellery. You have to select designs that reflect the taste and budget of your market, and you have to literally tell your clients, “This is what I’ve chosen for you,” and infer, “THIS is what you want!” Standing up for the designs you’ve chosen is critical for the economics of your business. Maybe you’ve chosen one brand because you like their clean lines and durability, while another reflects a unique Canadian flavour, and yet a third brand offers popular styles in a quality level you’re happy to stand behind. If you feel strongly enough about a designer or a design to invest your money in them, your clients must get a strong sense of that enthusiasm. You won’t sell every piece in your store that way but let’s stop apologizing for what we don’t have. When someone comes into your store and points to a picture of some strange design and says, “Do you have something like this?” — don’t get grumpy and NEVER apologize. The proper response would be, “Wow, that’s beautiful (or striking or bold or elegant or different). Tell me what you like about it.” This way, you can open up a conversation about the customer’s preferences, lifestyle, and pay attention to what they’re wearing. Then you can show them designs that you’ve painstakingly chosen to fit those criteria. I hope you’re completely convinced that engagement shoppers would be crazy to shop anywhere other than at your store. It’s as simple as that. Okay, not super simple. The Internet is throwing millions of ideas into consumers’ heads and you have to try to sway them into the paltry few selections that you have to offer. But fear not! They didn’t hit the “Order Now” button. They came to you – their local professional – where they can actually try things on and where they know you’ll take care of them. So, take care of them! Oh, and by the way, if you can find a way to encourage just 10 per cent of common-law couples to get married, or at least buy an engagement or commitment ring, you’ll over double your engagement sales. So go get ‘em! CJ

Todd has been an active member of the jewellery industry for over 20 years and currently reps for Customgold Manufacturing Ltd., Keith Jack, and Courtney Gold of Vancouver. Check out his blog at toddwaz.blogspot.com.

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an event worth its weight in gold

Jewellers Vigilance Canada invites you to: THE JEWELLER’S BALL, NOVEMBER 21, 2015 The King Edward Hotel, 37 King St. East, Toronto, Ontario

• Cocktail Reception & Silent Auction starting at 6:30pm

• Dinner & Dancing at 8:00pm

TICKETS ARE $375.00 PER PERSON + HST | BLACK TIE EVENT WITH VALET PARKING

For more information call 416.368.4840 or 800.636.9536, or email info@jewellersvigilance.ca Jewellers Vigilance Canada | An independent, non-profit association to advance ethical practices within the Canadian jewellery industry. CRIM E PREVENTIO N • RESO U RCE PROTECTIO N • SAFET Y AWAREN ES S

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Feature

Jewellers Vigilance Canada 2014 Annual Crime Report Report prepared by Janet Lamont, JVC Crime Analyst

THE TOTAL DOLLAR LOSSES FROM CRIMES against jewellery companies in Canada reported to JVC increased from $5.2 million in 2013 to $5.7 million in 2014, an increase of 9.62 per cent. The total number of crimes reported to JVC increased 4 per cent. Jewellers Vigilance Canada does not capture internal theft numbers in its database. Criminologists and other learned individuals in Canada suggest internal crime contributes an additional 30 per cent to losses suffered by jewellers.

Significant trends or changes in 2014 include: • There was one successful off-premise attack on a jeweller reported to JVC in 2014. However, in this attack the suspects stole the jeweller’s personal bag and not his line bag. There was one attempt when a jeweller was followed to his home and an attempt was made but the suspects were frightened off when a family member locked himself in a bedroom with a cell phone. • Major reasons for the decline in off-premises attacks are a significant decrease in the number of salespersons on the road due to the economy and the number of salespersons using security services to move the product. Police sources have indicated the organized theft groups appear to have shifted their criminal activity to burglaries. • The number of on-premises robberies, primarily of retail jewellers, decreased by 3 per cent from the previous year and dollar losses decreased 6 per cent. There continues to be an alarming amount of firearms being used and shots fired to commit these robberies. • There were 38 Grab and Run losses at retail jewellers in 2013. In 2014, JVC received reports of 35 Grab and Run incidents. A decrease of 3 per cent (Ontario and B.C. were the most active provinces). JVC believes this number is probably higher as many jewellers do not report it to JVC or even the police. • There were 14 arrests in 2013 and 29 in 2014 of suspects who committed crimes against the jewellery industry. • JVC believes that although there has been a small decrease in the number of crime categories, there is a significant increase in break-ins at retail outlets. This is due to a gang that has been operating in the Alberta and Saskatchewan area.

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ALL LOSSES/EVENTS I. DOLLAR AMOUNT OF LOSSES AND NUMBER OF INCIDENTS 2013 DOLLARS 2014 DOLLARS CATEGORY # incidents #incidents $2,114,621.00 Break & Enter 9 $470,251.00 25 $3,195,984.00 Robbery $3,619,988.00 29 30 $1,142,148.00 $430,549.00 Theft 52 61 $5,232,387.00 $5,741,154.00 106 Totals 100 Available data on all crime categories indicates a 9.6 per cent increase in dollar losses and a 6 per cent increase in criminal events. II. INCIDENT PERCENTAGE BREAKDOWN 2013 DOLLARS CATEGORY 30% 27.4% Robbery 24% Break & Enter 9% 61% 49% Theft Robbery – Taking of property by use of force or fear. Break & Enter – Entering premises after closing with intent to commit a crime. Includes hiding in a jewellery location, taking product and breaking out after closing. Theft – Taking of property without force or fear. Includes crimes such as cheque and credit card fraud, distraction crimes, diamond switches, sneak thefts and shipping losses that present evidence of criminal activity. III. ROBBERY A. Number of robbery events There were 30 robberies reported to JVC in 2013 compared to 29 in 2014. B. Robbery dollar losses Robbery dollar losses deceased by 14 per cent compared to 2013. Losses for 2014 were $3.1 million compared to $3.6 million for 2013. C. Most active province/robbery – 7 provinces reported 2013 DOLLARS Ontario 13 14 British Columbia 5 7 Alberta 4 4 Quebec 2 2 1 3 Saskatchewan 1 0 Nova Scotia 3 0 Manitoba Ontario, British Columbia and Alberta have the most jewellery outlets. Quebec has a large number but very few jewellers are members of JVC. JVC believes the Quebec number is much larger. D. Most active month/robbery in 2014 E. Most active: September with 6. February, March and April with 4 each. F. Least active: January, June, July, October and December. In the past, January has been one of the most active months for robbery.

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In 2014, it was September. JVC believes one gang that was operating in Southern Ontario was the reason for the increase in September. E. Most active time of day/robbery In 2014, the greatest number of robberies occurred between 12:00pm and 10:00pm. The second most active time of the day for a robbery to occur was between 10:00am and 11:00am. This statistic remains constant each year. F. Most active days of week/robbery The most active days for robberies during 2014 were Tuesday, Thursday and Friday followed closely by Monday and Wednesday. The least active day was Sunday. G. Percentage of robbery events with a gun/violence Robbery Events with violence: 2013 2014 36.6% 85% Robbery Events with a gun: 2013 2014 30% 44.4% IV. HOMICIDE There were no homicides reported to JVC during 2013 and 2014. Near fatal violent incidents 2013 2014 INCIDENTS 0 0 Someone shot (not fatal) 4 1 Shots fired (no one hit) These near fatal incidents had the potential of becoming homicides. In April 2014, criminals drove a stolen truck through the front window of a jewellery store while staff and customers were in the store. They jumped out of the truck armed with guns and robbed the victims. They fled in the same truck. In two other incidences in 2014, two suspects entered the store and fired a shot from a shotgun into the showcase to smash the glass. In August 2014, two females entered a jewellery store armed with a handgun and taser. A shot was fired in the store. In 2014, there were numerous incidents of staff being assaulted during a robbery. Any of these acts of violence could result in a homicide. V. BREAK AND ENTER LOSSES - $2,114,621.00 For the last two years, dollar losses for this category have decreased. In 2013, JVC had only nine reports for a loss of $470,251.00. In 2014, the number of incidents increased to 25 and the dollar losses increased to $2,114,621.00. JVC believes one gang that is operating in Alberta and Saskatchewan has caused this large increase. They have not been arrested at the time of this report.

MOST FREQUENT POINTS OF ENTRY On 17 occasions, entry was gained through the front door. On four occa-

sions, a stolen vehicle was used to smash through the door or window. On two occasions, the back door was the point of entry. On two occasions, the store was entered through an adjacent wall. POINT OF ENTRY Glass in front door smashed Stolen vehicle drive through front door Back door Adjacent wall

# occasions 17 4 2 2

All but four were 3-minute burglaries. VI. THEFT: $429,048.00 IN LOSSES IN 2014 Frequent theft methods: # incidents dollars TYPE OF THEFT 0 $0 Shop Theft Distraction Grab & Run Smash & Grab Traveling Salesperson Diamond Switching Transit/Other

8 35 1 1 1 0

$67,542.90 $298,534.00 $10,672.00 $0 $29,000.00 $0

These theft numbers do not included robberies. Those are reported in the robbery section. The theft losses in 2014 have decreased by 62 per cent from 2013. This decrease was many due to the police arresting a gang that was operating in Southern Ontario in 2013. Frequency of Grab & Runs by month, day and time: # INCIDENTS DAY # INCIDENTS MONTH 5 MONDAY 3 January 3 TUESDAY 7 February 1 WEDNESDAY 6 March 2 THURSDAY 9 April 1 FRIDAY 3 May 5 SATURDAY 1 June 3 SUNDAY 6 July 0 August 2 September 3 October 8 November 2 December

OFF-PREMISE CRIMES This section provides statistical data regarding criminal attacks occurring away from the victim’s base of operations. For example, attacks against traveling jewellery salespersons, trunk and remount show operators, couriers, firms at jewellery shows, retailers attacked away from their place of

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# INCIDENTS TIME 8-9AM 0 9-10AM 1 10-11AM 0 11-12PM 0 12-1PM 2 1-2PM 3 2-3PM 2 3-4PM 9 4-5PM 4 5-6PM 8 6-7PM 3 7-8PM 1 8-9PM 1 9-10PM 0

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Feature business, including at home and other industry members traveling with jewellery. DOLLAR LOSSES - $0 There were two events reported to JVC in 2014 but there was no dollar loss in either event. PERCENTAGE CATEGORY Robbery Theft Totals

OF TOTAL OFF 2012 $1,786,500 $4,650,000 $6,436,500

PREMISE CASES BY CRIME CATEGORY 2013 $870,000 $0 $870,000

ROBBERY OF TRAVELING SALESPERSONS Violence In all of the off-premises robberies reported to JVC in 2013, a victim was physically assaulted, or threatened usually in response to some level of resistance on the part of the victim. A gun was displayed in only two of the three incidents. The violence was committed by assault or displaying of a knife or gun. The police in all three investigations believe that the subjects responsible were South American and were connected back to the Montreal area. In one occurrence, a jeweller was followed from a show in Montreal to his home in Richmond Hill where he was attacked as he was removing product from his vehicle. Three Columbian nationals were later arrested by Ontario Provincial Police as they came back from Montreal and they were subsequently charged by York Regional Police for this incident. In 2014, there were two incidents reported but there was no dollar losses. In both cases, the suspects were described as South American and weapons were seen. There have been no arrests in either case.

TRUNK AND REMOUNT SHOWS In 2014, JVC did not receive any reports regarding losses from trunk or remount shows. OFF PREMISE ROBBERY LOSSES 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 $1,360,000 $2,550,000.00 $1,786,000.00 $870,000.00 $0

BREAK AND ENTERS INVOLVING TRAVELING SALESPERSONS There were no incidents reported to JVC in 2013. In 2014, there was one incident when the suspects through a rock through a patio door window of a jeweller’s home. When he walked out to investigate, they forced him back into the house at gunpoint. The suspects were frighten off before any merchandise was stolen or any family members were hurt.

OFF-PREMISE THEFT LOSSES There were no off-premise theft losses reported to JVC for 2014.

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MOST FREQUENT CRIME SCENES The most common technique used by thieves to identify traveling salespersons is to follow them. In 2014, one incident took place at a jeweller’s home and in the other incident it took place in a hotel parking lot.

SUSPECT PROFILE In the great majority of off-premise losses reported to JVC in 2013 and 2014, in which suspect descriptions were provided or arrests made, male and female Hispanic suspects were indicated. Based on law enforcement reports, the majority of those arrested were found to be from Colombia and residing in Canada illegally. Local law enforcement agencies have confirmed the existence of organized criminal groups, which in the past had concentrated their criminal activities against the jewellery industry.

MOST ACTIVE PROVINCES In 2013 and 2014, British Columbia and Ontario continued to be the most active provinces although some law enforcement investigations have indicated activity in the province of Quebec. The organized groups are now targeting homes, stealing whatever they can.

CANADIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY CRIME LOSSES MONTH

2010

2011

2012

2013

2014

January

$1,535,542.00

$1,602,963.00

$1,858,300.00

$402,000.00

$599,636.00

$67,950.30

$212,195.00

$752,629.00

$653,300.00

$907,235.00

$1,687,916.00

$612,600.00

$614,799.00

$257,295.00

$593,331.00

April

$333,859.00

$158,032.00

$293,858.00

$108,700.00

$368,957.00

May

$1,253,390.86

$1,153,039.00

$908,000.00

$58,498.00

$341,400.50

June

$381,349.00

$2,751,629.00

$1,404,875.00

$24,200.00

$70,691.00

July

$301,700.00

$60,299.00

$2,219,877.00

$319,650.00

$131,180.00

August

$372,700.00

February March

$190,918.00

$3,420,198.00

$668,098.00

$365,193.00

$1,080,947.00

$661,500.00

$1,416,497.00

$126,825.00

$512,081.00

$192,815.00

$627,975.89

$770,800.00

November $779,299.00

$1,694,216.00

$1,670,387.87

$628,635.82

$1,149,449.00

December $663,799.00

$101,500.00

$63,149.00

$59,099.00

$316,456.00

September $208,440.00 October

Total

$595,836.00

$8,181,781.16 $10,130,419.00 $14,060,387.87 $5,220,948.71 $5,741,153.50

In 2010, 2011 and 2012, JVC had steady increases in reported crime. In 2012, Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company (JMI) made a financial contribution to JVC’s Awareness Enhancement Program and crime numbers made a significant drop. Awareness is a key component to loss prevention.

JVC’S AWARENESS ENHANCEMENT PROGRAM JVC’s Awareness Enhancement Program was started in 2013 and it has two goals. One is to increase the awareness of members of the jewellery and watch industry in Canada of the crime against jewellers and the ways to protect themselves. The second goal is to increase the awareness of law enforcement as to the impact of criminal activity on the jewellery and watch industry thereby giving

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greater focus to jewellery investigations. During 2014, on the first of each month, JVC’s criminal analytical department sent out a recap of criminal activity for the previous month to all its members. The crime data on the JVC website was also updated. In 2014, JVC had seven articles on jewellery crime and crime prevention published in Canadian Jeweller Magazine. In May 2014, JVC along with A.S.A.P. security, hosted a security seminar at the Royal York Hotel in Toronto for local jewellers as well as law enforcement and loss prevention professionals. JVC’s crime alerts and good news bulletins by month 2013 Alerts 2013 Good News 2014 Alerts 2014 Good News MONTH 0 7 1 5 January 0 0 4 7 February 1 4 1 5 March 2 0 7 4 April 3 2 0 5 May 8 0 2 0 June 1 6 1 1 July 0 2 5 7 August 7 1 0 7 September 5 0 0 7 October 1 11 2 6 November 2 5 0 6 December 7 72 12 60 Totals In the spring of 2014, JVC, with the assistance of Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company (JMI), arranged for two police officers from Peel Regional Police to attend the JSA security seminar in Orlando, Florida. The officers were able to network with members of the FBI and well as with the New York City Police. It also gave Canadian officers a greater understanding of jewellery crime South of our border. In 2014, JVC was successful in obtaining permission from senior management of York Regional Police to have the York Holdup Squad work with JVC to produce a video on robbery for retail jewellers. In May of 2014, JVC was a major sponsor in a robbery investigators seminar, which was hosted by the Calgary Police. Over 150 police investigators and private security personnel attended the three-day seminar. Also in November 2014, JVC was a major sponsor in another robbery seminar hosted by the Peel Regional Police. In August 2014, with assistance from JMI, JVC sent a police officer from Coquitlam, British Columbia and an officer from York Regional Police to a jewellery crime seminar held by Kelly Ross, a former RCMP officer. JVC will be looking at sending more officers in 2015 as this has proven to increase awareness and focus and helps build a strong relationship between JVC and the police.

JVC/JM POLICE APPRECIATION AWARD In January 2014, JVC President Gino DeVuono presented the JVC/JMI Police Appreciation Award to Constable Richard Kearns of York Regional Police for his successful investigation of a major gang committing Grab & Runs throughout Ontario.

JVC sources of case information • • • • •

JVC membership (manufacturing, wholesale and retail doors) JVC Law Enforcement information sharing network Local Jewellers Crime Prevention Networks Non-member crime victims Media, trade publications, general public, online sources The statistics provided in this report are based solely on information obtained by JVC. Only information that in the opinion of JVC is credible, and can be verified in some way as to its accuracy, is used in the compilation of these statistics. The loss values reported should be considered conservative, and may be greater than indicated. It is not possible for JVC to obtain information on every jewellery/watch industry crime that occurs in Canada for several reasons, not limited to the fact that many go unreported, even to the police. The JVC database is the largest and most accurate in existence in Canada and continues to grow. Last year demonstrated an improvement in information sharing but there are many jewellery business and law enforcement agencies that have not bought into the idea that networking and crime prevention is everyone’s business. By not reporting losses, we all become victims.

Acknowledgements In 2014, JVC continued its focus on building strong partnerships not only with members of the industry but with law enforcement as well. Building a strong crime prevention team is key to reducing jewellery crime and preventing victimization of members of this industry. JVC would like to acknowledge John Kennedy, president of Jewelers Security Alliance (JSA) for his continuing support of JVC’s Crime Prevention Program. It is with the help of JSA that JVC has been able to attend JSA’s annual workshop in the U.S. Kennedy’s willingness to share information has made a positive difference. One of the most important partnerships JVC has is with JMI. Since 2004, JMI has been a strong and constant supporter of the JVC’s Crime Prevention Program. David Sexton, vice president of Loss Prevention for JMI, sits on the JVC Board of Directors. His guidance and vast knowledge of LP concerns in North America has been invaluable in building a strong program. JMI joins JVC in presenting our Law Enforcement Award of Merit to deserving police. Thank you to JMI and David Sexton. JMI, JSA and JVC have similar views on the extreme importance of developing law enforcement relationships and the importance and necessity of networking. Strong partnerships like this within the Canadian jewellery and watch industry as well as assistance from law enforcement can only help transform the thin blue line the police are able to provide into a more solid barrier against crime. CJ

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Make sense of summer

This is the season to take risks and make bold choices when it comes to wardrobe and jewellery. Feminine prints are all the rage for dresses and trousers; when paired with a fun stiletto or chunky heel, your client can have the perfect office look or ensemble for an elegant evening dinner. Rose gold is still a super hot trend in the jewellery scene and it’s easily mixed with diamonds and sterling silver for a look that’s fresh and ultra luxurious. If your customer is more understated and classy, think platinum and white gold with clean lines and accents of royal blue in a gemstone or a watch dial. Just remember, there’s no right or wrong when it comes to fashion. It’s all about putting together a look that’s a true reflection of your client. CJ

Style Council

3

2

1

4 6 5

4 7

1. Topshop Ditsy Organza Prom Dress, $250 2. Movado Women’s ESQ Origin 36mm watch in rose gold ion-plated stainless steel, $395 3. Roots Helen’s Bag in Fuschia Prince and Natural Belgium Veg., $188 4. Thomas Sabo Sterling Silver Collection Karma Beads in Brown Sugar, Glittering Wave, Crushed Pave Rose, Twines, Zigzag White, Big Freshwater Pearl, Smoky Quartz, $25 - $159 5. Simon G 18k white gold earring with 2.84ctw diamonds, $8,800 6. PANDORA Rose ring with micro bead-set cubic zirconia, $110 7. Topshop Rapture Skinny Mule Sandals, $75

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9

8

10

12 15 11

14

13 8. Topshop Drape Front Pocket Blouse, $68 9. Thomas Sabo Sterling Silver Collection Glam & Soul Earrings, $198 10. ELLE Jewelry Fluidity Collection Necklace, $110 11. Roots Chelsea Bag in Whisper Blue Prince with Coral accent, $258 12. CITIZEN Ciena Ceramic women’s watch with 20 diamonds, $550 13. Zeghani 14k white gold bangle with 0.42ctw diamonds, $2,000 14. Topshop Jubbly Cross Strap Mid Heel Shoes, $130 15. Topshop Cape Leaf Print Cigarette Trousers, $80

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Last Word

Sensual serpent

The quintessential Serpenti watch is not a novelty for Bvlgari but for the first time ever, the head and tail of the famous snake cross over on the wrist to create a striking new arrangement. The handcrafted 18k pink gold bracelet, dial and case are set in brilliant-cut diamonds, encapsulating a quartz B033 calibre movement that has been especially personalized for Bvlgari. A symbol of luxury and innovation for this iconic Italian brand, the Serpenti watch is a genuine classic that continues to reinvent itself. CJ

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TIME & JEWELRY

Find an authorized dealer at ELLEJEWELRY.COM elle@paj.ca

Find an authorized retailer at ELLEJEWELRY.COM

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Profile for Canadian Jeweller Magazine

CJ June/July 2015  

CJ June/July 2015  

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