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b u s i n e s s of r e t a ili n g j ewe ll e r y s i n c e 1879

J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 2






Olympics & Jubilee fever

Hiring for fit

Vintage watch craftsmanship

Seizing new

opportunities Brent Trepel, Ben Moss Jewellers


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24 Gold Group Ltd.

For details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 136

Gold Dealer & Refining Company

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4/27/12 11:25:03 AM

Canadian Jeweller B: 9.25 X 11.125in T: 9 x 10.875in L: 8.5 x 10.375

EPHRAIM ZION of Dehres Limited handles more diamonds in a day than most people see in a lifetime. Here he discusses the power of reputation, global diamond investment and why a GIA report is vital to any business built on integrity.

What’s something most people don’t know about your job? It’s the only business in the world conducted on trust. You sell 1 to 5 million dollars just on the telephone, without even a signature.

A diamond dealer’s most valuable asset? Reputation. Yes, you need a sense of artistic value and a knack for design, but the most essential part is integrity. You can’t survive without it.

What has doing business in Hong Kong taught you about the Asian market? It’s one of the strongest in the world. Every day, there are new millionaires and new businesses. Asians are very investment-conscious. Diamonds are safer and more profitable than money in a bank.

All-time favorite purchase? Most recently, a 100+ ct. D FL. Incredible brilliance and scintillation. Such a beauty. People fell down when they saw it. Did it arrive with a grading report? Ha, ha. GIA, of course. What responsible businessman, with a good reputation and name, would sell a diamond For details, write #102 on Free Info Page, page 136

without a GIA report?

Why is a GIA evaluation so important to one’s reputation? It’s the most reliable, authentic, dependable gem institute in the world. People know that, especially in the Far East. Remember what I said about reputation? A GIA report is crucial.

Business words to the wise? Selling is an idea game. The more knowledge you have, the more confidence you feel.

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GIA gratefully acknowledges those who, for 80 years, have used our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU For details, write #121 on Free Info Page, page 168.

8/29/11 9:57:49 AM

4/27/12 11:25:59 AM




Visit us at the following trade shows: Western Canadian Jewellery Expo Edmonton & Expo Prestige Montreal To inquire about our latest collections or to open an account and become an authorized retailer please contact 888-621-3641

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For details, write #103 on Free Info Page, page 136

Ad produced by Saro Creative


4/27/12 2:01:52 PM



For details, write #103 on Free Info Page, page 136


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4/27/12 2:03:05 PM

27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6 T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621 • Email: Made in Canada with Canadian gold

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For details, write #104 on Free Info Page, page 136

The Ashley Anne Collection

4/27/12 11:26:49 AM

For details, write #104 on Free Info Page, page 136

Whether your needs are simple or elaborate, let Midas be your Source for select Wedding Bands. We specialize in custom orders, small or large, and are positioned to increase your sales margins. At Midas, we manufacture in all precious metals and also offer:

New 19K Extreme White© • Displays • Marketing Kits • Buy-back Programs Incentive Programs • Co-op Advertising

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4/27/12 11:27:01 AM

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For details, write #105 on Free Info Page, page 136

Š 2011 Malo, Inc. Made in Canada.


4/27/12 11:44:14 AM


For details, write #105 on Free Info Page, page 136


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4/27/12 11:44:37 AM

For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 136

Behind every “With this ring,” there’s a great jeweller.

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4/27/12 11:29:38 AM

For details, write #107 on Free Info Page, page 136 CJAPR2012_10029_Creation_Grennier_ETHAN_STARS_Product_FP.indd 91

4/27/12 3:34:25 PM

ESTABLISHED 1879 JUNE/JULY 2012 • VOL. 133, NO. 4 Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | Lucy Holden Associate Publisher | Erin Poredos Sales Assistant | Lynne Shuttleworth Managing Editor | EstablishEd 1879 January/february 2011 • vol . 132,| no .1 E. Zeynep Guler-Tuck Associate Editor Irina Lytchak Editorial | Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | Laurie O’Handley Editorial Intern | lucy holden Associate Publisher |

Scott Jordan Art Director |

Carol besler Consulting Editor Sarah Vincett Graphic Designer Paul aguirre Associate Editor |

Erin Booth Production Coordinator |

scott Jordan Art Director Stacey |Rosenblum Art Intern | Elena Viltovskaia Designer | Melanie| Seth Controller & Operations | stacy Karjala Designer Henry Fonseca| Finance Administrator | Elizabeth Valiaho Production Coordinator

Robert Murdoch Web Administrator |

Melanie seth Controller & Operations | sunjoyo tanto Web Programmer | Joanne M. Brathwaite, Aileen Bennett, Sarah Carpin, Rebecca Croft, Erin Poredos Sales Assistant | CONTRIBUTORS

Jeff Elliott, Lilie Ford, Mark Frey, Marie-Claude Veillette, John Lamont, Genviève Leblond, Carine Loeillet, Sarah O’Connor, Duncan Parker, chris Davey, Depasque,Joe Martin CONtRibUtORs Bonnie Siegler,lorraine Hélène Thibault, Tuck,irving, Todd Wasylyshyn John lamont, charles lewton-brian, Donna Jean MacKinnon, Duncan parker, lihn pham, Dean SALES sanderson, bonnie siegler. Lucy Holden ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

salEs lucy holden



Jeff Yamaguchi

(416) 203-7900 ext. 6134

EMAIL ADVertisiNG sAles tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122 Yamaguchi ADVERTISING SALES email TEL .

Karolann Cassman

(416) 203-7900 ext. 6117

EMAIL AssociAte publisher tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117 Shane Stefurak NATIONAL ACCOUNTS & GROUP SALES MANAGER email

(416) 203-7900 ext. 6122

ADVertisiNG sAles EMAIL tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6126 CIRCULATION PUBLICATION PARTNERS email

Garth Atkinson

345 Kingston Road, Suite 101

Pickering, Ontario, L1V 1A1 CiRCUlatiON publicAtioN pArtNers Garth atkinson

345 Kingston road, suite TOLL101 FREE 1-877-547-2246 pickering, ontario, l1V EMAIL toll free 1-877-547-2246 Head Office 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106 email

Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3B8 head Office

60 bloor street West, suite 1106 203-7900 FAX (416) 703-6392 TEL . (416) toronto, ontario, M4W 3b8 Montreal Office fax 555 Chabanel Street West, Suite 1507 tel . (416) 203-7900 (416) 703-6392

Montreal Office

555 chabanel street West, suite 1507 TEL . (514) 381-5196 FAX (514) 381-6223 Montreal, Quebec, h2N 2J2FREE 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117 TOLL tel . (514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223 Subscription Rates toll free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117

Montreal, Quebec, H2N 2J2

Canada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. United States — one year, US$205. Foreign — one year US$205 (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide issues.) 8% P.S.T. for Newfoundland, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia residents. Single copies — $25; Buyers’ Guide $40. Bulk rates — six or more subscriptions, $17.50 subscription Rates per subscription per year (Canada only).

Check our Website for Monthly Specials! Phone 1.800.663.6472 Fax 1.800.316.2999 Email:

canada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. united states — one year, us$205. Foreign — one year us$205 (subscriptions include buyers’ Guide isChange of Address sues.) 8% p.s.t. for Newfoundland, New brunswick and Nova scotia residents. single copies — $25; buyers’ Guide $40. bulk rates — six or more subscriptions, $17.50 email:per telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735 per subscription year (canada only).

or send your cover label and newChange address of to Canadian address Jeweller c/o Publication Partners, 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101, Pickering, ON Canada L1V 1A1 email: telephone: 1-877-547-2246 Publishedfax: by 905-509-0735 Rive Gauche Media II Inc. or send your cover label and new address to canadian Jeweller c/o publication partners, 345 Kingston road, suite 101, pickering, oN canada l1V 1A1

Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product No.Media 40678000. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all Published by Agreement Rive Gauche ii inc. representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not

canada post canadian publications Mail sales product Agreement No. 40678000. the publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. the publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication under the the following all material submitted editorialJeweller consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or consideration hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller may be reproduced, in all or part, without expressconditions: written permission of the publisher.for canadian magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial their affisubmitted liates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent or thebypayment compensation to, the party providing such under the following conditions:and all material for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may of, be used canadianofJeweller material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Ste. 1106, and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providingToronto, such ON Canada M4W 3B8. material. please direct submissions to the editor, canadian. return undeliverable items to rive Gauche Media, 60 bloor street West, ste. 1106, toronto, oN canada M4W 3b8.

CMCA AUDITED Official magazine of JVC

For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 80


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R .cC o OM J a n u a r y / F eCJ b r uJaU r 1 1 2 0 1 2 w| w Ww.W cW a. CnAaNdA iDaI AnNj JeEwW eE Ll lLeE r. m N yE /2J 0 U LY

12/16/10 11:28:53 AM

4/27/12 1:10:12 PM

And behind every great jeweller, there’s Stuller. Introducing Spexton by Stuller—our latest solution in contemporary metals. With Spexton, you now have the option to offer your customers stylish contemporary metal designs at competitive price points. Especially when combined with Stuller’s overnight delivery and impeccable service. To learn more about Spexton by Stuller, call 800-877-7777 or visit That’s the beauty of it all.

For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 136

Visit us at JCK Las Vegas at PC-850 and ET&S B6265

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4/27/12 11:29:46 AM


[FEATURES] JUNE/JULY 2012 46. It’s still about people Technology helps us make even stronger connections with customers

48. Gold Mine revival The Malartic project, the biggest gold mine in Canada, is one of a number of old mines back in action

50. Opal Magic Variations in flashes of colour are what make these misunderstood gems most valuable

56. seizing new opportunities With 63 stores across the country, Ben Moss continues to stay on top of trends and opportunities

62. Vintage Visions Watches reminiscent of a time when style trumped technology are big news

56 88 74. Online success strategies Some products are best sold in person—others may be better suited to online sales

78. Solving currency conundrums Learn how to hedge so doing business internationally does not have to come with increased risk

82. A metamorphosis Men’s jewellery has evolved from “faux pas” to “fashion forward”

88. Jewel Britannia Olympics and Royal Diamond Jubilee fever is creating demand for themed jewellery

94. Finding a spark Hiring employees is a mix of skill and intuition—here’s how some jewellers go about it

106. Western Canadian Jewellery Expo Trade show mixology: blending the reliably refined with the neoclassical


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BU_CJ_96R159_Layout 1 4/10/12 9:27 AM Page 1

DESIGNED TO BE BRILLIANT Every diamond is set by hand. Every setting is designed to allow for maximum illumination. The Bulova Diamond Collection – there’s no better way to light up a room.

For details, write #108 on Free Info Page, page 136


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4/27/12 11:31:12 AM

For details, write #109 on Free Info Page, page 136

Never before has there been a diamond that appears whiter than its true color. The ten sided Meteor Cut® diamond, developed with flawless symmetry, has 71 well placed facets. Radiating dazzling brilliance and an endless refraction of light, the Meteor Cut® is recognizable at first glance. Meteor Cut® - the perfect 10.


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4/27/12 11:32:02 AM


102 68

[DEPARTMENTS] JUNE/JULY 2012 102. Passion for colour 18.

Letter from the editor


Product Showcase

Recessionary demand translates into boon for Imperial Color Diamonds

112. Welcome, Duncan Parker New JVC president takes the helm with the aim of increasing participation and networking

30. star watch 32. Who’s news

126. What’s on

34. For the record


40. CJ Photos

136. Fax back

68. GLoria Bass

138. Last word

The only female master goldsmith in Canada is also a consummate creative artist


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Showcase/marketplace TM

SPÉCIAL : CJ en français 70. 72.

La Chine change-t-elle le luxe ? La tendance est aux bijoux vintage

4/27/12 1:55:51 PM


Kicking off summer We’re kicking off a new series about the dynamic U.K. jewellery scene— including the London 2012 Olympics—with an all-encompassing overview of how jewellers are preparing for the influx of tourists and how this is going to affect the local economy. Our U.K. reporter will be covering some key Olympics events for us, and we’re very excited to be able to offer you this ground-level view. It’s the time of year when we try to ensure that everyone is aware of all the people and companies in our community. The Canadian Jeweller Buyers’ Guide, published in the September 2012 issue, is a major pillar of that strategy of knowledge sharing. Your help is always welcome to ensure that your suppliers are in the Buyers’ Guide. With the click of a mouse button, they can register online at I am sure you have some beautiful designs that you are proud of, and which you have not yet showcased. Don’t hesitate. Enter the Excellence in Design competition with your top design. See page 116 for more information. The entry deadline is July 7, 2012, and you can enter online at


Best wishes for a successful summer!

Olivier Felicio Publisher/Editor-in-Chief


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5/7/12 10:58:28 AM

For details, write #110 on Free Info Page, page 136 TIG-Ritani-CanadianJeweller-2.indd 1 CJJUN2012_Advertiser_Product_xxxx_FP.indd 22

Phone: 1.866.682.6823

Email: Web:

2012-04-25 3:47 PM 4/27/12 11:33:07 AM






Todd Wasylyshyn joined the jewellery business in 1987 when he answered a Help Wanted ad for Forest of Jewels in Heritage Mall, Edmonton. Over the past 25 years, Todd has grown from lowly salesclerk to gemologist, insurance specialist, manager, owner and currently a rep for Customgold and Courteny Gold of Vancouver, B.C. He polled jewellers to fi nd out how they hire, in his article on page 94.

Aileen Bennett is an awardwinning speaker and author who rents out her brain to businesses to help them with customer service, corporate culture and communication. She curates a popular blog about ideas at On page 46, she tells us how social media forges stronger connections with customers.

Photographer Rebecca Croft lives and works in Winnipeg, Manitoba. She has been shooting professionally for 10 years, and she loves the diversity of people and locations this job brings. In 2001, she moved to Vancouver to study photography, and a year later moved back home to Winnipeg with a lot of technical know-how, experience in the field and the desire to start her own business. Her favourite things are Polaroids, coffee, her iPhone and the beach. See her photos of Brent Trepel from Ben Moss Jewellers on page 56.

Writer and editor Sarah O’Connor has tackled topics ranging from cars to construction, fitness to finance, yet her specialty is telling business stories in a manner that is compelling for industry experts and consumers alike. Sarah is based in the Greater Toronto Area and can be reached at sarahaoconnor@ Sarah discusses what does and doesn’t work with online media for retailers, on page 74.

PAGE 46-47

PAGE 74-76

PAGE 94-96

PAGE 56-61


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4/27/12 1:47:51 PM

For details, write #111 on Free Info Page, page 136 CJ_ERL.indd 1 CJAPR2012_8284_E.R.L._Diamonds_FP.indd 15

8/23/11 4/27/12 10:44:10 3:31:38 PM AM


1 2



1. Nova Diamonds


This multi-row overlapping dome ring by Nova Diamonds is meticulously

The June and September editions of the show serve as a comprehensive

crafted in 18K rose gold and features about a carat of diamonds. Retail

platform to advocate the jewellery trade every ye ar. A strong track record of

Price: $7,745. Be sure to ask about Nova’s extensive collection of

excellence has made both events a prominent fixture in the global jewellery

overlapping rings. For more information, write 150 on the Free Info Card

trade’s events calendar. Save the date and plan your visit now! For pre-

on page 136.

registration, please visit For more information, write 152 on the Free Info Card on page 136.

2. Best Bargains Get ready for JCK Las Vegas by getting these high rolling 14kt gold Ruby

4. Malo

(glass-filled) and emerald Cherry Design earrings. These earrings are hand

Today, we, the third generation of MALO jewelers, continue our family tradition

made in 14kt white or yellow gold and set with 6cts of rubies and 1.3cts

of embracing quality and beauty in every step of the creation of our products.

of emeralds. Just in time for summer, they are sure to be a hit with those

In platinum or in yellow, white or pink gold, with diamonds or without, in any

looking for a bit of sparkle and whimsy to add to their wardrobe! For more

number of fabulous finishes; your client’s dreams come true with MALO. For

information, write 151 on the Free Info Card on page 136.

more information, write 153 on the Free Info Card on page 136.


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details, write #112 Free Page, page ForFor details, write #112 on on Free InfoInfo Page, page 112136 CJ_ad.indd 6 CJAPR2012_8427_SAKO_Fantastic_Jewellery_Newer_Ad_FP.indd 19

27 Queen Street East. Suite 1402 Toronto, ON M5C 2M6 Tel: (647) 345-5401 | Fax: (647) 345-5362 E-Mail:

3/1/12 3:03:28 5/1/12 4:38:04 PM




3 4

1. Kameleon Jewelry Featuring a whimsical flower design in black enamel, this sterling silver ring from Kameleon Jewellery will be a perfect addition to any stylish

3. Cover Reflections

summer wardrobe. Suggested Retail Price: Pendant $119.00


Co147 - The round, flat ladies’ watch promises a stylish appearance with

JewelPops $29 to $54. For more information, write 154 on the Free Info Card

its elegant looks. The stainless steel casing is studded with SWAROVSKI

on page 136.

ELEMENTS all round and fitted with a sapphire glass. Available in various designs with a leather/satin strap or all stainless steel bracelet. Stainless steel

2. Jewelers Mutual

casing, mother-of-pearl dial, quartz movement, waterproof to 50 meters. For

Order Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company’s Security Guide for Retail Jewellery Businesses

more information, write 156 on the Free Info Card on page 136.

today! Jewellery thieves use trickery, sleight of

hand, stealth, the element of surprise, and the threat of force to steal

4. Introducing KIM’s Romance® Bridal Collection

from jewellery businesses. Use the Security Guide for Retail Jewellery

Kim International’s Romance® Bridal Collection features 18kt gold and

Businesses to help you reduce your risk of theft of all types. Exclusively

diamond bridal designs crafted with impeccable quality and styling.

endorsed by the Canadian Jewellers Association, American Gem Society

Romance® is backed with a CZ sample program, lifetime warranty, extensive

and the Manufacturing Jewelers and Suppliers of America, Jewelers Mutual

marketing package and E-Commerce website. For more information, write

is the only company specializing exclusively in jewellery insurance in the

157 on the Free Info Card on page 136.

United States and Canada. For more information, write 155 on the Free Info Card on page 136.


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5/3/12 5:00:55 PM

The new Jewels by Anita Spring Collection is Here!

For details, write #113 on Free Info Page, page 136

Visit us at booth #639, AGTA Mandalay Bay, Las Vegas May 31-June 4, 2012

Toronto designer, Anita Agrawal, has been in the jewellery industry for over the past twenty years and recently launched her well received jewellery line just last year. Anita, designs with the goal of making wearable fine gold, silver and gemstone jewellery that is affordable and can be transitioned from day to evening wear. All Jewels by Anita products are available at fine jewellery stores across North America. All products are handmade in Canada and are customizable. For more information and a price list, contact Anita at


21 Dundas SQ., Suite 306, Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 Canada

T: 416-214-2582 F: 416-214-4626

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Best Bargains

4/27/12 11:37:21 AM







1. Imperial Gems

3. Creation Le Grenier

Imperial Color Diamonds provides an impressive selection of fine jewellery

Drop pendant in sterling silver set with black crystals and a grey cats eye

from one of a kind pink diamond rings to amazing graduated yellow

stone, black and white rhodium plated. For more information, write 160 on

diamond necklaces. We are proud to offer an extensive collection of fine

the Free Info Card on page 136.

loose natural fancy color diamonds (all certified G.I.A) Our high volume allows us to be competitive and provide the lowest prices possible. For

4. Rembrandt Charms

more information, write 158 on the Free Info Card on page 136.

Create a charm department. Rembrandt’s charm departments attract repeat charm collectors. Displays feature inventory control, removable trays and a

2. Stuller

vast selection all in less than three square feet. Wall panels, freestanding towers

You think you know all the products and services Stuller offers because

and countertop displays are available in cherry, walnut, and maple. Please

we have been your partner for more than forty years. But we are willing to

visit or call 416.293.3495 or 800.387.5238.

bet that you don’t. The ways of doing business in the jewelry industry are

For more information, write 161 on the Free Info Card on page 136.

changing. Let us show you that we are staying ahead of the transformation to support your needs. You might be surprised at what you learn. Visit us


at JCK Las Vegas booths PC-850 and ET&S B6265. For more information,

This collection is for every Miss Flower on Earth. Nature’s beauty in the

write 159 on the Free Info Card on page 136.

flower has been captured in a unique silver jewelry collection in five sparkling symbolic colors. Be Natural, be yourself and follow your inspiration... BFLY. For more information, write 162 on the Free Info Card on page 136.


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5/4/12 9:39:30 AM


For details, write #114 on Free Info Page, page 136

Independent Swiss Family Business Swiss Made Passion & Handicraft Sophisticated & Trendy Design Worldwide Presence

COVER EXPRESSIONS Co 150 Actos Chronograph

Swiss Made. Distributor: Valangin Inc. 1435 St-Alexandre, #400 Montreal, Quebec H3A 2G4, Canada

CJJUN2012_Chrono_AG_Cover_10044_FP.indd 19

Tel. +1 514 845 2250 Tel. +1 800 361 1623

4/27/12 11:38:21 AM







alternates polished and brushed surfaces, offering a striking contrast with

We now offer engagement rings and matching bands in addition to our vast

the shine of ceramic on the bezel ring, marked with a 60-minutes count-up

selection of wedding rings. This collection of bridal sets will please even

scale. The dial is fascinating with details, its multi-layer construction with

the most discerning bride-to-be. Each set is exclusively designed to fit the

three contrasting counters give the dial a well-balanced look enhanced

personality, style and taste of future brides. For more information, write 163

by large hand-applied indices and numerals, a tachymeter scale on the

on the Free Info Card on page 136.

flange and a date window at 4 o’clock. A scratch-resistant sapphire crystal as well as the screwed case back and crown are signatures of the


Gc premium quality standards. Water resistant to 100 meters (10 ATM). For

Dripping in green quartz and rhodium plated sterling silver, this addition to the

more information, write 165 on the Free Info Card on page 136.

ELLE Jewelry summer “Ethereal” Collection is nothing short of spectacular. Layers of cascading green quartz accent the length of your neck. For a


simpler expression, you can also try a number of similar pieces from the same

GIA offers a suite of support tools designed to assist retailers in

ELLE “Ethereal” Collection. For more information, write 164 on the Free Info

communicating the 4Cs: the International Diamond Grading System and

Card on page 136.

the value of GIA Diamond Grading Reports. A report from GIA provides an expert analysis of the quality of a diamond based upon the “4Cs” of


diamond grading — colour, cut, clarity, and carat weight. The report also

Sport Class XXL Ceramic - Made for an active lifestyle, powered by a

includes a plotting diagram, which depicts the diamond’s unique clarity

precision Swiss Made chronograph movement, the new Sport Class

characteristics, such as inclusions. In addition, since GIA is not affiliated

Ceramic timepiece stands out with stunning high-tech ceramic bracelet

with any commercial enterprise, the public is assured the world’s most

and bezel, a material harder than steel, entirely scratchproof, and

impartial and accurate analysis of a diamond. For more information, write

hypoallergenic. The ceramic bracelet has a luxurious and sensuous touch

166 on the Free Info Card on page 136.

and is very lightweight. The Sport Class XXL 45 mm stainless steel case


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5/4/12 9:40:43 AM

Bijouterie / Je wellery

Specializing in:

Reverse colours available on all rings.

Two-Tone or Plain, Comfort Fit or Regular Wedding Bands in 10K, 14K, 18K, and Platinum.

For details, write #115 on Free Info Page, page 136

Catalogue available on request. Almost 100 new models added.

Head Office: 1117 Ste-Catherine O., Suite 418, Montreal, Quebec H3B 1H9 Tel: (514) 845-0066 • Fax: (514) 845-3697 • Toll Free: 1 888 465-0065 • Quebec contact Marcel Dumontet Tel: (514) 865-7235

Proudly Canadian

Ontario Toll Free: 1 888 465-0065

Manitoba contact Rube Helman Toll Free: 1 800 665-3314

Alberta, Sask., British Columbia contact Vahan Mele Tel: (647) 284-5067 Marcel Dumontet Tel: (514) 865-7235

Visit our website for more selections:


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4/27/12 11:39:14 AM


Stepping out in style by bonnie siegler

At the MusiCares Person of the Year Tribute to Paul McCartney held in Los Angeles, Alicia Keys looked beautiful with Amrapali accessories. She chose a Victorian diamond collar necklace ($18,910) and a 14k gold, citrine and diamond cuff ($9,650).

Marley Shelton attended the Los Angeles premiere of Journey 2: The Mysterious Island, looking none too mysterious in her jewellery. She simply chose Vahan 14k gold and sterling silver stackable diamond bangles ($5,500 each).








The Cove, was given a cocktail reception for his new Dolphin Project at a private Beverly Hills mansion. Maggie Grace attended wearing a pair of Tresor Dazzle earrings in 18k yellow gold with tanzanite and diamonds ($3,050).

Place your business card here and photocopy the page to pass to your walk-ins.


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4/27/12 1:46:38 PM

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top honour at the Designer Jewelry Showcase’s International Competition, marking the fi rst competition LaJoie has won in his 40-year career. As fi rst place winner, LaJoie earns a cash prize and crystal achievement award, and will be featured on the Designer Jewelry Showcase website through 2012. The winning entry will also be published in the 2012 Designer Jewelry Showcase yearbook. Although a resident of Portland, LaJoie has gained much inspiration from Quebec, particularly the fleur-de-lis symbol, which is prominently seen in his winning design.

Oppenheimer recognized for contributions Chairman of De Beers, Nicky Oppenheimer, was presented with the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Israeli Diamond Industry (IDI) earlier this year. Receiving the IDI’s highest honour, Oppenheimer was recognized for his important contribution to the world diamond industry. Many attended the award presentation in Tel Aviv, including IDI Chairman Moti Ganz, Exchange President Yair Sahar, Israel Diamond Controller Shmuel Mordechai and the Israel Diamond Manufacturers Association President Bumi Traub. Oppenheimer was also supported by his son, De Beers CEO Philippe Mellier and CEO of DTC, Varda Shine. Oppenheimer’s efforts in the diamond industry will again be honoured at the upcoming Gala Dinner of the World Diamond Council during the 8th Annual Meeting in Vicenza this May.

“Designer of the Year” Mark LaJoie Jewellery designer Mark LaJoie was recently recognized as “2011 Designer of the Year” with his beautiful “Sunrise” creation. Th is striking piece has a choice oval cut 25 carat Brazilian Lemon Citrine, and is set into a handmade 18k yellow gold carved design. “Sunrise” earned


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Gay Harden with the opportunity to wear at this year’s Oscars.

Derek Parsons passes away Derek M. Parsons, former head of Miamibased Diamond Bourse in the Southeastern U.S. passed away earlier this year. From 1998 to 2007, Parsons served as President, and most currently had served as Treasurer for the bourse. Born in Liverpool, England, Parsons also owned wholesaler company British Diamond Import Co. and Windsor Diamond retailer in Ft. Lauderdale. Parsons died of leukemia.

Miserendino attended IJO conference

Sterling Jewelers appoints new COO

Marco Miserendino, Executive Director of fi ne jewellery brand Bijouterie Italienne (Montreal), recently attended the Independent Jewelers Organization’s (IJO) Spring Conference in Orlando, Florida. IJO is a group of international buyers, and serves as an educational institution for independent jewellers; Bijouterie Italienne is a new member of this organization. During the spring conference, Miserendino participated in several seminars, workshops and programs, and previewed some jewellery lines exclusive to IJO members. Miserendino selected many new and exciting pieces for the new spring season.

Specialty jewellery company, Sterling Jewelers Inc., has named Ed Hrabak as its new Executive Vice President and Chief Operating Officer. Currently Senior Vice President of merchandising, Hrabak will replace Bill Montalto, who is to retire after 26 years on the job. Hrabak, who joined Sterling Jewelers in 1978 as a Merchandise Buyer, has also served as Divisional Manager, Vice President of Merchandising and Senior Vice President and General Merchandising Manager. Stuart Lee, Vice President of Merchandising, will succeed Hrabak; Dawn McGuire will replace Lee. These company changes will be effective in June. [CJ]

Ahluwalia’s winning design Reena Ahluwalia’s award-winning “Canoe” design represents the Canadian spirit in the jewellery world. Earlier last year, Ahluwalia was named one of nine winners at Rio Tinto’s Global Design Competition. Upon winning the Master Craftman award in the “Canadian Diamond” category, Ahluwalia teamed up with Vancouverbased Crossworks Manufacturing Ltd. and began production of her designs. Inspired by the likeness of a canoe on an icy lake, Ahluwalia’s winning geometric piece is beautifully crafted in 18-karat white gold and set with 28.96 carats of Canadian diamonds. Most recently, this stunning necklace was presented to Academy Award winner Marcia

Reena Ahluwalia


4/27/12 1:06:53 PM

For details, write #117 on Free Info Page, page 136

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4/27/12 11:40:58 AM


news | trends | events RITANI and Platinum Guild International to shine at awards show

Umicore ranks in the “World’s Most Ethical Companies” Recently, the Belgian-based company, Umicore, was selected as one of the “World’s Most Ethical Companies” by Ethisphere. The Ethisphere Institute is an international think tank dedicated to the creation, advancement and sharing of the best ethical business practices. According to Ethisphere, the “World’s Most Ethical Companies” are recognized for their promotion of ethical business standards and practices, as well for their exceptional legal compliance minimums that help shape the industry. This year’s 2012 rankings included 145 organizations, with 43 of the winners located outside the U.S. In Canada, Imperial Smelting & Refining Co. is a division of Umicore Group.

Jewellery designer RITANI, along with Platinum Guild International, played a special role in the 47th Annual Academy of Country Music Awards on April 1, 2012. Music stars Martina McBride and Pat Monahan performed a duet of McBride’s new single “Marry Me,” and during the performance, Frank Tucci and Christina Davidson were married live on stage. RITANI and Platinum Guild International gave the bride and groom wedding bands that were exchanged during the musical ceremony. The two designers also provided celebrities with several beautiful jewellery pieces that were worn during the telecast of the Red Carpet.

AGS Labs and Worldmart*E team up The American Gem Society Laboratories, LLC (AGS Labs) recently formed a new partnership with Worldmart*E., an online jewellery platform. This strategic collaboration was made official during a signing ceremony at the Worldmart*E location in Panyu, China. The aim of this new partnership is to promote AGS Labs’ brand name and AGS diamond grading standards among members of Worldmart*E. The partnership will allow China’s local markets to learn more about AGS and additionally provide access to global diamond market information, further enhancing the sourcing and trading of diamonds on the online platform. AGS Laboratories, along with 1,200 Canadian and U.S. jewellery retailers, is dedicated to consumer protection and satisfaction.


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Frank Tucci and Christina Davidson

4/27/12 1:59:53 PM


Sotheby’s to auction legendary diamond Sotheby’s Geneva is to auction the famous Beau Sancy Diamond at the Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels sale on May 15, 2012. Estimated to be worth $2-4 million, this 34.98-carat double, rose-cut diamond has previously been owned by French, English and Russian royalty. The legendary stone, speculated to have been discovered in the 1500s in the Indian mines, is currently owned by Prince Georg Friedrich, great-great-grandson of the last German Kaiser. The Beau Sancy has only been publically shown four times in the last 50 years; as a rare treat, the diamond will be displayed during an international tour before the May auction.

The SMART Jewelry Show This year’s Chicago SMART Jewelry Show took place April 21-23 in Chicago. Now in its fourth year, this one-of-a-kind event offered independent jewellery retailers the chance to hear world-class speakers and participate in informative buying opportunities to help grow their businesses. During this three-day show, industry experts, as well as winners of INSTORE’s annual America’s Coolest Stores competition, shared and discussed their creative insights that helped transform their businesses into fresh, exciting retail experiences. All sessions were sponsored by the Diamond Council of America. The Smart Show Dallas will take place September 8-10, 2012.















Jewelers Mutual launches new insurance Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company recently launched Perfect Circle Jewelry Insurance for personal jewellery protection. The company’s new insurance policy provides worldwide coverage that includes protection against theft, damage, loss, unusual disappearance, while also offering competitive rates and easy online application. Particularly important to this insurance program is its repair and replacement policy; it allows consumers to select their preferred jeweller of choice for any repairs, rather than using a service prearranged by the insurance company. Jewelers Mutual is the only company to specialize in jewellery insurance in Canada and the U.S.

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4/27/12 2:00:35 PM


Necklace auctioned in support of charity

MCD Pearls Ad layout 1/20/11 6:09 PM Page 1

Earlier this year, Christie's auction house and Avakian jewellery teamed up to support the Saby Charity Foundation based in Almaty, Kazakhstan. Avakian designed and donated a stunning necklace that was sold during an auction at the New York public library. This beautiful piece, called "The Amulet," was inspired by old Kazakhstani jewellery, and set with diamonds, sapphires and blue topaz. Funds raised by the auction were to benefit the Alem Program within the Saby Charity Foundation; this program helps orphans, children with health concerns and disabled persons with socially vulnerable families in Kazakhstan. The Amulet alone sold for $250,000.

MTB moving to Gem Tower

MCD Pearl Imports A selection of pearl strands, loose pearls and pearl jewellery 27 Queen St. E, Suite 703 Toronto, ON M5C 2M6 T (416) 368-2690 • F (416) 368-2426 Email


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Manfra, Tordella & Brookes Inc. (MTB) is to purchase an office condominium at Extell Development's International Gem Tower in New York. MTB, which sells, buys and stores gold bars and coins, is interested in purchasing 10,000 square feet and an additional 2,500 square feet of below-grade space in the 34-storey tower. Although Extell did not disclose an asking price, office condos in the building have sold at approximately $1,100 per square foot. MTB’s contract has been a year in the making, and a deal is anticipated to close by the end of this year. Other companies have also purchased office space in the Gem Tower, including the Gemological Institute of America.

4/27/12 2:01:13 PM

For details, write #118 on Free Info Page, page 136 CJJUN2012_PAJ_ELLE_WATCH_IBC_9899_FP.indd 19

4/27/12 11:44:26 AM


James & Williams Jewelers win award for excellence Earlier this year, the Chicago Jewelers’ Association (CJA) honoured James & Williams Jewelers with the George W. Ashby Award for Business Excellence. The award, named after Berwyn architect George Ashby, was presented during the Berwyn Development Corporation’s annual meeting. Each year, this award is given to one Berwyn-based business that demonstrates a professional, positive image. James & Williams Jewelers were recognized for their strong reputation of courteous and helpful customer service, high-quality products and superior store maintenance. Family owned since 1962, James & Williams celebrated its 50th anniversary this past March.

Blue Nile reports decline in sales Blue Nile, online retailer of certified diamond and jewellery, recently reported a two per cent

decline in overall sales in the fourth quarter. Blue Nile’s net sales fell from $114.8 million to $112.3 million year-over-year. Gross profit also declined eight per cent from $25.3 million to $23.2 million. This year, engagement ring sales, in particular, have decreased by six per cent in the U.S. In response to this decline, Blue Nile lowered its prices in January. Non-engagement jewellery sales, however, have increased by two per cent.

Malca-Amit welcomes LBMA member Malca-Amit, a service firm for companies dealing with precious commodities, recently announced that it has been accepted as an Ordinary Member of The London Bullion Market Association (LBMA). Recent Canadian members include The Toronto-Dominion Bank (TD) and The Royal Canadian Mint. Established in 1987, LBMA is the leading Over-The-Counter (OTA) market for gold and silver; its members comprise the majority of commercial banks that manage physical gold,

refiners and logistics, to name a few. Ensuring optimum conditions for gold investments, Malca-Amit offers comprehensive solutions for corporations, banks, wealth managers etc. interested in sourcing, transporting and storing gold, silver and precious metals.

JA members benefit from partnership A new partnership between Jewelers of America (JA) and the International Diamond Exchange (IDEX) now offers JA members free and discounted subscriptions to IDEX’s resources. With offices in all major global diamond centres, IDEX Online offers trading content and services for the diamond industry. In addition to offering the weekly IDEX Diamond Price Report free of charge, IDEX offers JA members discounted online subscriptions (some up to 50 per cent off), which includes market reports, research topics and access to the largest online diamond inventory in a commission-free trade setting.





































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Target attracting retailers The anticipated Canadian debut of Target Corp. is generating the largest industry buzz since WalMart entered the Canadian market in 1994. Kildonan Place Shopping Centre, for example, is one of five Manitoba shopping centres in which Target will be opening. Since announcing this store location, two new retailers–River City Sports and State & Main Kitchen and Bar–have both decided to also open locations in Kildonan Place. According to the general manager of Kildonan Place, Peter Havens, Target’s presence has played a major role in attracting new mall tenants. Retail leasing specialist, Michael Stronger of Shindico Realty Inc., contends that retailers want to open shops near major industry players, such as Target, because they attract consumers. Stronger suggests that more consumer traffic for Target will create more consumer traffic for others around them. [CJ]

4/27/12 2:01:35 PM

Behind every “Wow,” there’s a great jeweller. And behind every great jeweller, there’s Stuller. Royal Asscher ® is a name synonymous with the finest diamonds in the world. Stuller is a company that takes pride in delivering quality craftsmanship in everything we do. Sounds like a perfect match, doesn’t it? We think so. The signature Royal Asscher cut is now available in sapphire. Stuller is proud to be the exclusive distributor of natural and treated Royal Asscher cut loose sapphires, starting from 5mm, in blue, pink, yellow, and purple. For a wealth of ideas and solutions, call our Toronto sales center

For details, write #119 on Free Info Page, page 136

at 866-815-5511, or visit That’s the beauty of it all.

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Visit us at JCK Las Vegas at PC-850 and ET&S B6265

4/27/12 11:45:57 AM


Smart Jewelry Show Chicago – Saturday, April 21, 2012 to Monday, April 23, 2012 1




Jewellery pieces from Belle etoille 1. Ken Dugas from Stuller with Canadian Jeweller editor-in-chief, Olivier Felicio 2. Vatche Derderian and Hrag Kitsinian from Vanna K 3. Tim Lawrence and Diane Cook from Kameleon 4. Jim Grohn and Carolyn Thamkul from Belle etoille 5. Angelique Knafo from Angelique de Paris with Canadian Jeweller editor-in-chief, Olivier Felicio 6. Giovanni Vaccaro and Anesha Raghubir from Beverly Hills Jewellers



Jewellery pieces from Angelique de Paris


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Jewellery pieces from Zeghani



8. Claudia Schmidt and Lindsay Watkin from Polygon 9. Jesus Rodriguez, Dr and Mickey Minagorri from Artco Group 10. Zaevn Ghanimian from Simon G Jewelry Inc. - Zeghani with Canadian Jeweller editor-in-chief, Olivier Felicio 11. Leon Der Boghossian from Simon G Jewelry Inc. - Zeghani 12. Jack King, Jodi McLoughlin and Connie Perez from Thistle & Bee 13. Martial DubĂŠ from Bfly, Maren Rosen and Alexander Tabaie from Stuller


Jewellery pieces from Bfly

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5/4/12 12:06:57 PM


Fossil’s CD release party for Dean Brody PHOTOGRAPHY BY STACEY ROSENBLUM

Fossil Canada put on a splashy party to celebrate the release of Dean Brody’s third album, Dirt. Guests enjoyed a special acoustic performance by Brody, and the chance to check out Fossil’s vintage-inspired accessories.


1. Dean Brody entertains with a tune from his new album 2. Fossil PR and marketing manager Lori Petteplace and CJ managing editor Lynne Shuttleworth 3. Shane Stefurak, CJ national accounts director, with Dean Brody and Fossil’s general manager, Sian Williams 4. Breakfast TV host Jennifer Valentyne and segment producer Janina Palhares check out Ever magazine 5. Fossil associate account managers Mariesa DeGasperis and Joe Tonnos






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5/4/12 12:08:33 PM

For details, write #120 on Free Info Page, page 136 CJJUN2012_Advertiser_Product_xxxx_FP.indd 19

5/3/12 4:56:09 PM


Timing is everything TW Steel CEO Jordy Cobelens attributes the brand’s meteoric rise to good timing and adaptability By E. Z. Guler-Tuck

“We have a good product, we’re a young, exciting company and we’ve grown,” Cobelens says, attributing the brand’s success to good decisions and good timing. In 2010, the company announced its partnership with Brazilian race-car driver Lucas di Grassi. TW Steel’s announcement of its newest brand ambassador, Kelly Rowland—former member of Destiny’s Child, and judge on UK’s X Factor— came during the finale of the popular reality show, allowing TW Steel to capitalize on the media frenzy. World ambassadors


ecently named Ernst & Young’s “2011 Emerging Entrepreneur of the Year” in the Netherlands, Jordy Cobelens, cofounder and CEO of TW Steel, stresses the need for urgency when steering the Dutch watch brand. “We don’t have the benefit of 50 years of history,” he says. “We have to adapt very quickly. So far, we’ve made the right choices.” One of the younger contenders in the market, the family-owned brand has turned its lack of experience into a driving force for its global brand. TW Steel began its operations in 2005, and in a short time, managed to snag a share of the oversized watches market.


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Each ambassador has brought a different story to the brand, volunteering his or her star power to further the TW Steel name. These endorsements have also served as All-Access passes to particular key markets in the world. While Kelly Rowland has helped raise the profile of the brand in North America, Lucas di Grassi’s Twitter following alone made TW Steel’s entrance into the Brazilian market smooth sailing. Like many other luxury brands, TW Steel has begun to focus its marketing efforts on the rapidly growing middle class consumer base in emerging markets such as Brazil, China and India. When asked what made the Canadian market so special, Cobelens says, “Canada is a big market for TW Steel, and the people love the product. We have the right partner here on the ground [Ottimo Creations] who knows how to push the brand, not only from a sales point of view, but from a marketing perspective.” Cobelens believes in the importance of picking retailers’ brains. “Every time you speak with retailers, the input they give you is very valuable.

They are the ones dealing, on a regular basis, with consumers,” he says. Dressier timepieces

More recently, when the inventive watchmaker wanted to add a touch more luxury to its existing watch lines, the new “CEO” collection was born. “With every model we have, we have a CEO version. It’s just a different look and feel of the brand. It’s a little bit more defined, a dressier watch,” explains Cobelens. Cobelens passionately describes the new CEO Diver Multi-Function Automatic watch that TW Steel developed with movement manufacturer Miyota. The watch features reserve energy for 42 hours, 26 jewels and a scratchproof sapphire crystal on the front and back. With an insatiable thirst for innovation, Cobelens explains that this is “the first brand in the world to launch this movement. It is a huge benefit for us and a great story, of course. TW Steel, in a lot of retail environments, is the only non-Swiss brand.” Bigger calibre

Cobelens appreciates the relationship his company has built with Miyota. “One of the things you will see in the future is that the movements manufacturers are using bigger calibre movements,” he says. “This is a huge advantage for us, because it makes the watch look even more expensive…all of a sudden the dial pops out so much more.” Amsterdam-native Cobelens is a true entrepreneur, building the business from the ground up with his father, Ton Cobelens. In parallel with his ongoing passion for the watch industry, he also started his own record company, JC Records. [CJ] Visit to watch our video interview with Jordy Cobelens at BaselWorld.

4/27/12 11:56:18 AM

In 1969, the first ASTRON put us on the map, this one lifts us off the planet‌

For details, write #121 on Free Info Page, page 136

The World's First GPS Solar Watch

Please visit to view the ASTRON collection & a full range of Seiko watches.

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13/04/12 3:47 PM 4/27/12 11:48:52 AM


“Just because everything is different doesn’t mean anything has changed.”

people It’s still about

Technology helps us make even stronger connections with customers • By Aileen Bennett


read a quote this weekend from the writer Irene Peter, and it really struck home with me: “Just because everything is different doesn’t mean anything has changed.”

This is how I feel about running a business in today’s environment. We are continually being told that everything has changed, and that our businesses won’t survive unless we keep up. While I agree that things are different—technological advances and ways of communicating have meant that while we do a lot of things in a different, more immediate, more transparent way, nothing has really changed. Your business isn’t about jewellery, it’s about people. It’s about genuine connection, customer service and all the things it’s always been about.


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We may gather on Facebook instead of in the town hall or café, but we still gather and talk. We may text instead of “popping over” to see our neighbour, yet we still share our experiences. the trust factor

We may be able to Google the piece of jewellery we want, and know what it’s worth before we enter a store; we still want to build a relationship. We still want to trust who we buy from, to start our own traditions and to be known by a name and a smile when we walk into a store. People haven’t changed. Technology has. For those of you in a second, third (or more) generation business, you have an advantage here. Go to the people who started your business, or those who have worked in it for many years, and ask them to tell you how they built relationships. Then translate it using the amazing devices we have at our disposal today. You can still ask your customers to pop in for coffee and a cookie; you may just text them or email them the invitation. You can still share in the events of your clients’ lives; just do it on Facebook.

4/27/12 11:26:42 AM


C A N A DA’ S #1 J E W E L L E RY M AG A Z I N E

J E W E L L E RY: T H E E X P E R I E N C E O F P E R S O N A L T R A N S F O R M A T I O N & I D E N T I T Y


W I N T E R 2 01 2


Decide who your company is, what it really stands for, what your story is, what your values are and work from there. Don’t be scared to take the best of traditional values and customer service standards, and apply them in this changed world. More personality

Your business should have a personality, just like you do. The generic market has been cornered by the big box stores, you are all specialists in what you do, you just have to show us (your potential customers) who you are. When it comes down to basics, people do business with others they like and trust; we justify it on locality, price or quality. We make buying decisions emotionally and justify them logically. Go where they go

You can’t afford to ignore all the differences; you need to be where your customers are. If

they are talking on Facebook, Twitter, LinkedIn, GooglePlus, YouTube or by text, email, or carrier pigeon, you need to meet them there.

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Embrace technology just like you would embrace a potential lifetime customer. You need to show your clients that you understand them and the way they operate in the world; it’s just the way of communicating that has changed, not the meaning behind it. We can still sense genuine and sniff out fake, even through a tablet screen or a phone. Learn to love technology; it makes your business easier to run and helps you sell more, to more people—just don’t become a robot. You are in the people business. Many things are different. Still, nothing has really changed. Doing things right still works, and doing the right thing is still vital. [CJ]

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11-12-05 11:27 AM

Jewellery, the experience of personal transformation and identity For More Information Contact: Olivier Felicio 1.888.358.8186 ext. 6107 Lucy Holden 1.888.358.8186 ext. 6117 Shane Stefurak 1.888.358.8186 ext. 6134


5/4/12 11:44:21 AM


The Malartic project, the biggest gold mine in Canada, attempts to balance economic, environmental and social components By Hélène Thibault The mining industry is flourishing in Québec. Visionary mining companies such as Osisko are revisiting mining sites that were considered no longer viable, and applying new mining methods. With the cost of gold at record highs, these entrepreneurs are able to revitalize regions and provide new sources of revenues for local people. The Malartic site was operational from 1937 to 1965, and many thought the Malartic gold rush had run its course. – Deborah Smith-Sauvé, Manager, The Canadian Mining and Metallurgical Foundation 48

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sisko Mining Corporation is one of Canada’s leading gold producers. From a grassroots exploration company created in 1998, the purchase of land claims in 2004, over 900,000 metres drilled, environmental assessments and community meetings, financings, construction completed in early 2011, and the first gold pour in April of that same year—the Canadian Malartic mine is currently Canada’s largest open-pit gold mine in operation. In 2013, the gold mine in Detour Lake, Ontario will be up and running, and that will then be the largest gold mine in Canada. High gold prices are stimulating an interest in exploring previously closed mining areas in northern Quebec, especially in the Val-d'Or (“Valley of Gold”) area. The Quebec government natural resources website states: “In the Malartic area, several old gold deposits are being re-evaluated in light of new mining techniques or new geological data. These include Osisko Exploration’s open pit project, the East Amphi Mine, operated by Richmont Mines, and the Midway project, under the management of Northern Star Mining Corporation.” A 16-year lifespan

The Malartic site is Osisko’s first operating mine. With an expected average of 574,000 ounces of gold produced per year, the mine is forecast to extract more than 10 million ounces of gold at an average grade of 0.97 grams of gold per tonne, during a 16-year life of mine. By comparison, the Detour Lake gold mine is expected to extract 15.6 million ounces during its life span. (The Porcupine mine near Timmins, Ontario has produced more than 66 million ounces of gold since it began production in 1910; it is North America's longest continually operating gold mine.) Situated in the town of Malartic, within the region of Abitibi Temiscamingue, Quebec, the large-scale Malartic project has created hundreds of employment opportunities within the region, and a significant secondary market, purchasing equipment and using the services from local and surrounding businesses. During the construction of the mine in particular, more than $500 million in investments were spent in the region. In addition, Osisko continues to make significant financial contributions to the region and province as a whole. Between 2011 and 2028, Osisko will pay more than $1 billion in mining rights, based on a $1,500 price of gold. The company will also pay $3.2 billion in tax contributions, or $177.5 million per year, for the same period.

Another area in which both Osisko and the mining sector make substantial contributions is research and development. In 2010, expenditures for research and development of mineral deposits totalled $2.6 billion in Canada, including $483 million in Quebec. In fact, Canada’s mining sector has exceeded that of the pharmaceutical industry in R & D, throughout the entire decade of 2000 to 2010. Last, Osisko remains committed to efforts toward the advancement and improvement of areas such as corporate social responsibility and sustainable development. In recent years, Osisko was awarded many prizes, particularly in sustainable development, for its many innovations and commitments. Balancing act

At Osisko, sustainable development has been a series of actions, measures, ideas and details that helped build the Canadian Malartic project as a balance among the economy, the environment and the social and community components. The company’s goal is to minimize the environmental impacts as much as possible. Osisko is one of Quebec’s 10 largest companies by way of market capitalization, and currently employs more than 700 people. From Osisko Canadian Malartic in collaboration with the CMMF – Canadian Mining and Metallurgical Foundation. [CJ]

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4/27/12 9:57:33 AM







Variations in flashes of colour are what make these misunderstood gems most valuable By Duncan Parker


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pal is a fascinating gem. It’s the constantly changing gem that got me into this constantly changing world of gems and jewellery. I had a great uncle in Australia who, in retirement, took up lapidary work and became an accomplished opal craftsman. He had a shed, as do all self-respecting Australians—a place where he could take a beer out of the refrigerator and get to work on tinkering. His tinkering was building machines and cutting and polishing opals with them. I used to go over on weekends, and destroyed loads of perfectly good opals.


Eventually, I improved and produced some pretty good-looking opals. Fortunately, the opals were pretty good-looking already, and I was just releasing their inner beauty.


Phenomenal gem

Opal comes from only a few places—the majority from Australia, some from Ethiopia, and fire opal comes from Mexico. We even have opals in Canada. Okanagan opal in British Columbia is Canada’s first opal mine, and even has a dig-your-own option. The opal, birthstone for October, is frequently misunderstood; it has a reputation of being either cheap or unlucky. It’s easy to go into a department store and find a modestly priced ring with an inexpensive opal. This opal is usually white, pale and barely shows any colours. It’s not really representative of what opal can be. In reality, an opal can be a phenomenal gem.


Opal can certainly have a white body colour with barely any flashes of colour. There are modestly priced opals available, and these usually have a pale, whitish body with slight flashes of colours, often in green or bluish. Opal has many variations, with names based on their general appearance: white opal, black opal, jelly opal, crystal opal, fire opal, water opal are some of the names. • White opal has a white body colour and is usually translucent. • Black opal has a black body colour and is usually opaque. • Water opal is very close to being transparent and colourless. • Crystal opal is highly translucent, and often has a yellowish to orangeish colour when viewed against light. • Fire opal has a red to orange colour, similar to fire flames.

1. Black opal colours 2. Boulder opal 3. Rough Mexican fire opal

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| J u n e / J u ly 2 0 1 2



4/27/12 11:35:30 AM



Presentation for 2012

The thing that makes most opals outstanding is the “play of colour” seen rolling around in the gem. Opal can exhibit flashes of colours that make the gem distinct from any other. These colour flashes are independent of the actual body colour of the gem.


Collection Fall 2012

The body colour makes the various types of colour flashes look very different in each type of opal. The play of colour is shown best against a black background. Black opal is the best example of this, and the most costly. On the other hand, flashes of bright colours rolling through the colourless transparent “water opal” can be very mysterious and quite beautiful. The various colour flashes can have lots of different looks. Sometimes there is a broad flash of colour, and sometimes there are tiny pinpoints of different tones. Usually the colours vary as the gem tilts and turns, changing from red at one angle to green at the next. This is what makes opal truly unique.

these opals are highly prized, very valuable, and used in high-end custom jewellery. If you have a client looking for a remarkable and unique gem, a black opal might be just the thing. A fine black opal can retail for tens of thousands of dollars per carat. There are lots of design possibilities with these gems. Fire opal is very popular, and has been increasing in price over the past few years. Despite the price adjustments, it’s still a bargain compared to fine black opal, and it can retail for as much as several hundred dollars per carat. Most fire opal is faceted, transparent and usually has no play of colour, making it unusual among opals. Crystal opal has a slightly cloudy body appearance and can have a very bright play of colours. These opals are often set with a cluster of diamonds around them; they’re also very effectively used on their own in modern jewellery. BAD REPUTATION


See Collection on Page 53 3291 chemin Royal . Québec . QC Canada G1E 1V8 . 418.660.2909 or 1.888.660.3292 Patent Pending

Different colour flashes have different effects on value. Green and blue flashes are most common, and therefore are less valued or desired than the rarer yellow, orange and the rarest red. An opal might have only one colour in these flashes; however, usually if there is red, it’s with other colours. The most valuable opal will have very bright flashes in blocky “Harlequin” patches, and includes red and a full spectrum. Black opal is mostly mined in the arid town of Lightning Ridge, Australia. Fine specimens of


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CJ J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 2 |

Walter Scott wrote a novel, Anne of Geierstein, in which an opal was thought to have played a role in bad luck. This had the effect of producing a superstition that opal brought misfortune, a belief lasted for about 50 years. Fortunately, most people no longer think of opal superstitiously. Opals were a favourite of Queen Victoria. As she often gave them as gifts, her Highness did her best to dispel the bad luck reputation of opal. The Royal collection has some exceptional opals as a result of Queen Victoria’s collecting. Opal is truly a royal gem. [CJ]


5/4/12 9:28:13 AM

New Collection Fall 2012 This collection is for every Miss Flower on Earth. Nature’s

Designed primarily for girls (8-12+), this collection will surely charm the older ones as well. For BFLY, this new collection is a step forward in our desire to inspire youth. Be Natural, be yourself and follow your inspiration...

See Full Collection Plumb Club Booth # 850

For details, write #122 on Free Info Page, page 136

3291 chemin Royal . QuĂŠbec . Canada . G1E 1V8 418.660.2909 . 1.888.660.329 Patent Pending

CJJUN2012_Advertiser_Product_xxxx_FP.indd 19

5/4/12 10:31:55 AM

Polygon Report: polygoncjreport

Diamond Supply & Demand

Polygon’s Diamond Supply & Demand report provides key decision-making information to jewellery professionals dealing in loose diamonds. It highlights shortages and surpluses in this sector, representing tangible business opportunities on both supplier and buyer ends. The data reflects actual searches performed and real-time inventory available through Polygon’s suppliers in our diamond database. Demand is shown as a percentage of the total number of searches and supply as a percentage of the total diamond inventory available. The report displays a short-list of diamonds with the highest demand and was compiled over a four-week period in March 2012..


Polygon’s diamond database is one of the largest in the jewellery industry with over 300,000 line items and an estimated wholesale value of over $3 billion dollars.

SUPPLY & DEMAND Polygon’s Diamond Supply & Demand report provides key decision-making information to jewellery professionals dealing I loose diamonds. It highlights shortages and surpluses in this sector, representing tangible business opportunities on both supplier and buyer ends. The data reflects actual searches performed and real-time inventory available through Polygon’s suppliers in our diamond database. Demand is shown as a percentage of the total number of searches and supply as a percentage of the total diamond inventory available. The report displays a short-list of diamonds with the highest demand and was compiled over a fourweek period in March 2012.

Most Popular: Carat

Most Popular: Cut

<0.30 .30-.37 .38-.45 .46-.49 .50-.69 .70-.79 .80-.89 .90-.99 1.00-1.25 1.26-1.49 1.50-1.99 2.00-2.99 3.00-3.99 4.00-4.99 5.00-5.99 >=6.00

1.26% 1.21% 1.22% 0.61% 5.86% 5.25% 3.45% 4.03% 20.17% 6.13% 14.58% 26.61% 5.11% 1.76% 1.09% 1.67%

3.76% 7.02% 6.07% 1.38% 13.49% 9.78% 3.03% 5.51% 23.80% 3.54% 9.18% 8.04% 3.01% 1.07% 0.80% 0.52%

Most Popular: Clarity

Demand Supply Shortage/ Avg. Price (%) (%) Surplus per Carat

Demand Supply Shortage/ Avg. Price (%) (%) Surplus per Carat Asscher Baguette Cushion Emerald Half Moon Heart Marquise Old European Old Miner Oval Pear Princess Radiant Round Trapezoid Triangular

$2,072.22 $2,064.54 $2,394.55 $2,190.34 $3,009.14 $3,445.55 $3,755.45 $4,083.96 $4,968.78 $5,520.95 $6,722.03 $8,512.07 $13,183.49 $15,941.53 $19,457.82 $23,203.78

1.51% 0.04% 7.14% 3.82% 0.03% 0.48% 2.13% 0.68% 0.10% 2.84% 1.88% 11.28% 3.50% 64.08% 0.07% 0.37%

1.12% 0.11% 5.81% 4.27% 0.41% 1.18% 3.58% 0.45% 0.09% 3.20% 9.78% 4.53% 4.83% 59.38% 0.34% 0.75%

Demand Supply Shortage/ Avg. Price (%) (%) Surplus per Carat

$6,404.30 $2,447.78 $5,351.46 $5,366.08 $1,908.16 $3,955.04 $3,081.94 $3,504.42 $6,602.02 $4,033.08 $3,374.72 $4,337.94 $5,593.32 $5,468.82 $2,170.40 $2,262.63


2.18% 1.94% 3.19% 4.91% 14.29% 21.00% 25.93% 18.99% 2.78% 4.00% 0.65% 0.13%

3.70% 0.02% 6.53% 8.79% 17.13% 18.80% 19.31% 16.91% 3.56% 4.09% 0.80% 0.15%

$8,673.15 $36,387.40 $5,952.76 $5,913.81 $5,525.62 $5,358.69 $4,643.28 $3,907.71 $2,354.93 $2,956.93 $2,714.93 $2,639.54

Most Popular: Overall

Most Popular: Colour Demand Supply Shortage/ Avg. Price (%) (%) Surplus per Carat





Demand (%)

Supply (%)

Shortage/ Surplus

Avg. Price per Carat

SI1 2.00-2.99 $9,684.35 5.19% Round F 0.12% SI1 1.00-1.25 $6,634.54 2.76% G Round 0.42% SI1 1.50-1.99 $7,389.64 1.90% G Round 0.21% SI1 0.50-0.69 0.91% $2,323.57 G Round 0.21% SI1 1.26-1.49 0.87% $6,029.33 G Round 0.06% SI1 1.00-1.25 0.84% $3,158.00 Princess G 0.05% SI1 0.70-0.79 0.76% $4,506.92 Round G 0.21% SI1 0.90-0.99 0.66% $4,413.96 Round G 0.10% VS2 1.50-1.99 0.57% $5.498.02 Princess G 0.01% SI2 3.00-3.99 $8,735.25 0.56% Round H 0.06% SI1 0.80-0.89 $3,540.30 0.54% Round G 0.06% SI1 1.50-1.99 $5,543.13 0.49% G Cushion 0.02% SI1 1.00-1.25 $3,372.53 0.39% G Cushion 0.07% SI1 2.00-2.99 $8,362.49 0.37% F Cushion 0.02% April 15th 2012 SI1 0.70-0.79 0.29% $2,060.89 Princess G 0.02% SI1 4.00-4.99 0.25% $13,056.65 H Round 0.02% VS2 2.00-2.99 0.25% $6,606.52 H Princess 0.01% SI1decision-making 1.26-1.49 0.24% information G 0.00% The Diamond Price report is provided by Polygon for thePrincess benefit of the trade and provides key to jewelry professionals$3,797.00 VS2 1.00-1.25 0.22% Emerald 0.03% in Polygon’s diamond$3,255.06 dealing in loose diamonds. Prices are per-carat, wholesale, asking price averagesHfor independently-graded round diamonds SI1 1.00-1.25 $3,498.19 0.21% Radiant F 0.05%

D E F G H I J K+

11.54% 13.41% 17.43% 20.57% 16.78% 10.70% 4.95% 4.62%

11.55% 13.87% 14.88% 15.88% 13.75% 10.47% 6.51% 8.13%

$5,711.69 $5,222.00 $5,245.95 $5,306.08 $5,098.60 $4,567.37 $4,423.65 $2,627.42

database, as of April 15th 2012. Actual transaction prices are confidential and may be somewhat lower. This matrix counts SI3 as I1 for purposes of computing averages. In general, finer makes will command higher prices, as will stones at the higher end of each weight range. The data represents the market trends on Polygon vs. the industry as a whole and is intended to be a comparative source of additional market information.

PRICING The Diamond Prices report is provided by Polygon for the benfit of the trade and provides key decision-making information to jewellery professionals dealing in loose diamonds. Prices are per-carat, wholesale, asking price averages for independently-graded round diamonds in Polygon’s diamond database, as of April 15th, 2012. Actual transaction prices are confidential and may be somewhat lower. This matrix counts SI3 as I1 for purposes of computing averages. In general, finer makes will command higher prices, as will stones at the higher end of each weight range. The data represents the market trends on Polygon vs. the industry as a whole and is intended to be a comparative source of additional market information is the most active online community and trading network for jewellery professionals.


CJ J u n e / J u ly 2 0 1 2 |

Trusted by thousands of members in over 34 countries, Polygon is the most active online community and trading network for qualified gem and jewellery professionals. Since 1984, Polygon has helped members gain invaluable knowledge and find unique trading opportunities that have significantly impacted 1/3 CARAT (0.30 - 0.49) 1/2 CARAT (0.50 - 0.69) the year over year growth of theirVS1 business. Members benefit fromI1best-in-class professional social network tools and the largest online selection ofI1estate IF VVSI VVS2 VS2 SI1 SI2 IF VVSI VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 pieces, high end watches, jewellery, loose diamonds, coloured stones, pearls, coins and more. The high calibre of the membership and the active participation D 3997 3165 2788 2544 2147 1794 1570 1204 D 7879 5968 5004 4552 4116 3293 2527 1761 of some of the brightest minds in the industry have made our community one of the most avidly sought business tools in the trade. E









4900 4627 4125 3538 3020 2459 1594 4674 4295 4003 3508 2843 2365 1516 1664 1478 1038 G 5028 4374 4072 3622 3171 2577 2083 1445 1589 1368 1011 H 4614 4182 3749 3202 2872 2385 2017 1392 15151-800-221-4435 1262 914 | I 3831 3552 3128 2836 2548 2097 1838 1357 | 1343 1204 838 J 2919 2854 2626 2469 2189 1870 1756 1232 Jewellery ∙ Diamonds ∙ Coloured Stones ∙ Watches ∙ Pearls ∙ Gold & Precious Metals ∙ Coins ∙ Estate Pieces and more! 1188 1022 694 K 2442 2419 2304 1952 1891 1686 1543 1210 E


F out 2976 2158of the 1980 1685 1489 F 5350 Find how you2638 can be 2423 part of one most exclusive groups1123 of jewellery professionals. G H I J K

2683 2573 2227 2182 1893


10368 8268 7449 6607 5848 4819 3469 2595


2495 2377 2170 2132 1825

VVSI 7816 6664 6326 5629 5219 4378 3407 2436


2361 2226 2088 1891 1679

2081 2070 1852 1806 1521

1969 1917 1708 1562 1407

3/4 CARAT (0.70 - 0.89) VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 6644 6123 5645 5245 4593 4206 3294 2381

6245 5811 5400 4753 4332 3715 2909 2324

5485 5211 4793 4358 3956 3549 2761 2151

4509 4267 4094 3710 3492 2961 2536 1966

1 CARAT (1.00 - 1.49) VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1


24296 17328 14671 11740 9822 7974 6520 5500

17236 15098 12258 10340 15073 12300 10442 9058 12371 10290 9903 8367 10588 9690 8192 7616 9275 8126 7364 6697 7496 6721 6236 5936 6197 5916 5420 5178 5359 5043 4710 4479



2 CARAT (2.00 - 2.99) VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1


46668 32013 28768 22457 17419 13913 10949 9451

36101 28430 25849 20016 16217 13131 10246 9304

32012 26463 22518 18097 15383 12791 9812 8831

26409 22163 19495 15836 13846 11200 8952 7791

19491 17058 16449 14138 11944 10101 8232 7339

7501 6913 6759 6401 5993 5338 4518 3904



3821 3564 3350 3230 3002 2553 2273 1786

2206 2187 2160 2037 1995 1884 1734 1419



6410 5964 5678 5447 5179 4740 4293 3558

3433 3246 3145 3044 2937 2843 2500 2267


14788 10802 13554 10246 12529 10084 11493 9370 10632 8911 9109 8052 7577 6739 6691 5727


9/10 CARAT (0.90 - 0.99) VVS2 VS1 VS2

14334 11308 10054 12424 10488 8673 11050 9295 7858 8909 7830 6473 7516 6761 6075 6397 5516 5199 5524 4591 4425 4363 3758 3539


30343 21895 18978 14769 12090 10087 8629 6275


94575 70808 50199 40733 29498 21552 17064 13432

I1 4843 4553 4264 4167 4004 3991 3861 3394




8106 7433 6862 6089 5542 4954 4117 3115

6735 6483 6192 5538 5187 4540 3734 2984




6037 5620 5485 4999 4680 4088 3450 2680

5183 4779 4669 4286 4121 3521 3109 2307

2828 2817 2806 2608 2469 2327 2225 1929

1 1/2 CARAT (1.50 - 1.99) VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1

23243 19731 16466 13739 11681 9755 7967 6179

VVSI 64582 57814 46752 35674 27263 21194 16326 12367

19971 16601 14478 12462 10651 9238 7515 5993

16648 14695 13105 11445 9680 8236 6922 5707

14206 10788 12724 9853 11417 9650 10354 9007 9078 8139 7647 6835 6305 5687 5301 4785

3 CARAT (3.00 - 3.99) VVS2 VS1 VS2 54155 46399 38607 32512 25286 20411 16069 11910

44943 37712 32764 28246 23000 17445 14230 11819

36498 29781 27593 22903 18565 15149 12477 10509

SI1 22791 20103 17671 16810 13945 11680 10018 8941



8461 8025 7574 6838 6606 5814 5088 4174

4059 3806 3471 3426 3377 3212 2903 2553



14556 12323 14220 10042 13359 7761 12329 5431 11555 5203 10019 5104 8889 5083 7738 5062

Trusted by thousands of members, Polygon is the most active online community and trading network for qualified gem and jewelry professionals. Over 2,800 members benefit from best-in-class professional social network tools and the largest online selection of estate pieces, high end watches, jewelry, loose diamonds, colored stones, pearls, coins and more. The high caliber of members on the network and the active participation of some of the brightest minds in the industry have made Polygon's community one of the most avidly sought business tools in the trade. Call 1-800-221-4435 or email for more information.

The total asking price of the listings in Polygon’s diamond database is more than $3 billion. Stones are listed for sale by more than 700 dealers from around the world. All transactions are conducted privately between buyer and seller. Polygon doesn't make any representations whatsoever with respect to these indicators. Listings and prices on Polygon change hourly, and there can be no assurance that a buyer will be able to locate any specific stone at a specific price.

050.CJ_Polygon Charts.indd 54

4/27/12 11:51:01 AM

Specializing in Natural Fancy Color Diamonds & Fine Jewellery!

For details, write #123 on Free Info Page, page 136

Single Natural Fancy Color Stones from .50 carat and up in Yellow, Pink, Blue, Green and more (All certified G.I.A) STOCK# HB/1293 HB/1299 HB/1298 HB/F/1101 HB/K/1280 HB/1300 HB/1301 HB/K-1278 HB/K-1239 HB/1302 HB/1303 HB/K/1241 HB/K/1240 HB/K/1244 HB/K-1245 HB/K/1277 HB/K/1273 HB/F/1290 HB/S/1287 HB/K/1288 HB/R/1289 HB/K/1304 HB/K/1305 HB/K/1263 HB//1195 HB/1280 HB/DV/11 HB/K/1259 HB/K/1275 HB/K/1260 HB/1282 HB/S/1284


CARAT 0.51 1.02 1.03 1.05 1.07 1.17 1.34 1.46 1.51 1.53 1.56 1.57 1.57 1.80 1.84 2.01 2.04 3.14 4.01 5.05 5.95 7.36 10.06 0.54 0.50 1.02 1.08 1.18 1.21 1.57 1.00 1.74



DIMENSIONS 4.96*4.04*2.79 5.44*5.22*3.78 5.98*5.18*3.52 6.67*6.70*3.99 5.72*5.41*3.65 5.79*5.75*3.68 6.63*6.06*3.7 6.08*5.93*4.03 6.70*6.15*4.06 6.37*6.34*4.17 6..36*6.19*4.25 6.31*5.97*4.31 6.29*6.23*4.19 6.76*6.69*4.69 7.21*6.77*4.27 7.32*7.20*4.36 7.34*6.85*4.48 7.93*7.89*5.33 9.61*8.78*5.57 9.12*9.02*6.28 10.84*10.18*6.03 11.97*10.63*6.46 13.01*10.95*7.54 4.98*4.26*2.89 5.34*3.86*2.57 5.95*5.36*3.61 6.25*5.26*3.66 7.62*5.39*3.74 6.35*5.49*3.84 7.03*6.62*4.05 8.70*6.46*2.48 6.91*6.82*4.32


DEPTH 69.1 72.4 67.9

TABLE 59 62 69





67.4 63.9 61.1 68 66.1 65.7 68 72.2 67.2 70 63 60.6 65.4 67.6 63.5 69.6 59.2 60.8 68.9 67.9

72 65 71 69 74 59 57 67 68 63 67 65 63 60 61 68 72 73 53 66













38.4 63.4

70 60






Please call us for the price

PLEASE VISIT US: JCK TORONTO, BOOTH NO: 1015 AUGUST 12, 2012 - AUGUST 14, 2012 Tel: (416) 363-2111 Fax: (416) 363-1349 Toll Free: 1-866-211-7778 55 Queen Street East, Suite 1209, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5C 1R6

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SEIZING opportunities With 63 stores across the country, Ben Moss continues to stay on top of trends and opportunities By E. Z. Guler-Tuck • PHOTOGRAPHY BY REBECCA CROFT

0.30ct Passionate Heart™ Canadian centre diamond engagement ring in 14k white gold. Hearts & Arrows Collection. Styles exclusively from Ben Moss Jewellers


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Brent Trepel

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he early 20th century saw the opening of the first Ben Moss store in Manitoba. As this small jeweller began to grow, its branding efforts would help position Canadian diamonds at the forefront of the nation’s precious stones industry. A true family business, Ben Moss has been passed down from generation to generation. In 1910, the company was founded by a 20-something Ben Moss, who had recently immigrated from Romania. In 1959, his son-inlaw Sid Trepel took the jeweller to new heights, introducing the brand into malls and the rest of the Prairie provinces. Today, the company’s aggressive expansion strategy is headed up by Sid’s son, Brent Trepel, who is now president and CEO of Ben Moss Jewellers. Since taking over the business in 1986, Brent Trepel has built up the company’s retail platform to include, “63 stores in Canada that are all located in major shopping malls,” he says. Catering to Canadians

Catering to the Canadian market and its consumers is what Ben Moss does best. It is strategic with its growth; however, this jeweller’s impeccable timing and ability to seize opportunities has allowed it to thrive in the competitive jewellery market. “We are very excited about the strength of the Canadian market,” Trepel says. “For the most part, our growth has really been very controlled and very much based on timing and opportunity. We don’t start every year saying we’re going to open three stores; we really take a look at what’s going on in the market and where the opportunities are.” When vying for sites best suited to the expansion of their retail platform, nothing is left to chance. “New locations are based on a national strategy of searching for [areas] with the right demographic mix and customer base in which a Ben Moss store will be successful,” says Trepel.

Top: Rutilated quartz and diamond ring in 10k white gold Bottom: 0.26ct total weight diamond earrings in 10k white gold featuring enhanced blue diamonds


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While businesses were closing their doors in 2008, Ben Moss had seized yet another opportunity to expand by adding seven new stores. “That was a time when the market was crashing, there were a lot of opportunities that opened up, where a lot of retailers who were committed to space were looking to get out of their commitments. We saw that as a good time to get into some new markets,” he explains.

4/27/12 10:30:25 AM



Ben Moss is not afraid to take risks, and stays on top of industry trends. With a strong focus on fine jewellery and watches, the company has found that trade shows are a great way to discover and incorporate the latest trends into existing collections, or get inspiration for new collections. Ben Moss’ jewellery is diverse, featuring a variety of different stones, metals and styles. The antique look stole the show at this year’s BaselWorld, and Ben Moss has found that, in bridal wear, this look is dominating, along with multi-stone settings. “Trends that we are looking to introduce to our consumers are pave diamonds. We are finding that look is still very big,” Trepel notes. “We are seeing a lot of emphasis on coloured diamonds. Cabochon seems to be very strong. We saw a lot happening in pearls.” In addition to the popularity of this year’s trendiest styles, there is a growing demand for custom-made pieces. With the future in mind, Trepel foresees his customers requesting, “unique pieces that speak to their personality.

Also, the ability to customize jewellery is an increasing trend we see with our customer.” Metal combos

As the price of gold has continued to soar this year, Ben Moss is one of the jewellers that has been offering more cost-effective designs, using a combination of different metals such as, “silver being used with gold, and silver being used alone.” Trepel also emphasizes the popularity of rose gold. He says that even though silver has a better price point, gold is still their highest-selling metal, in white and yellow. Ben Moss’ national pride rings through in the importance it places on Canadian diamonds and its Canadian heritage. “We do a large amount of business in Canadian diamonds,” Trepel says. “We feel that it’s a good fit for our brand and strategy, given that we are a 100 per cent Canadian-owned company. We operate solely in the Canadian market, and we’ve been in business over a hundred years. We just find the whole perception of Canadian diamonds, with our consumers in this market, to be very positive.”

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4/27/12 10:30:53 AM


Black and white mother-of-pearl and diamond necklace with chain in 10k white gold

The company’s Canadian calling card comes in handy when competing against other jewellers for a spot at the top. “At the national level, most of the larger competitors are not Canadian, and their head offices are in other countries. Canada represents a small percentage of their business and generally receives the same programs that are designed for other markets,” he says. The company has found that, regardless of the slightly higher price, consumers tend to prefer Canadian diamonds to their non-Canadian counterparts. “There is benefit [to buying a Canadian diamond] because there seems to be that sense of pride when you are buying something that is going to last you a lifetime, knowing that you might be paying a small premium for something that is Canadian, from a Canadian company,” Trepel says. “I think it plays well into the brand and the whole sense of what the consumer is looking for.” Educated customers

When building customer relationships, Ben Moss appreciates consumers who have done their homework before entering the retail environment. Even though the company does business through its website, many people still like to come into a physical store and purchase their jewellery. Customers use the Internet more for research than for purchasing jewellery. Once they have done their research, they then know what they want, and when they come into the stores, Trepel explains, it gives the salespeople a place to start.


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For Ben Moss, the more educated the customer, the better. Trepel says that Ben Moss is strategic with its pricing: “We really try to sell that we are trying to offer very competitive prices for diamonds, and that we have locations across the country to service customers, lifetime warranties, etc.” With an influx of not-so-well-known online jewellers who claim that they offer the cheapest diamonds on the market, when matching costs with its competitors, that’s where Ben Moss draws the line. “If the consumer is strictly looking at a diamond website where there isn’t a storefront, or they are strictly looking for the lowest price for a diamond, that’s something we are not prepared to compete with, and usually the consumer won’t end up buying there because they have concerns about why they can’t find that price anywhere else. ‘What happens if I don’t like the stone?’ ‘What happens if there’s a chip in the stone down the road?’ and ‘What happens if I find out that when I get an appraisal six months from now, it doesn’t appraise out to what I’m told?’” These are all common concerns Trepel has heard from consumers walking into Ben Moss stores. Looking forward, Trepel believes that, “Technology will play a much bigger role in [the consumer’s] choice of store and buying decisions. We cater to consumers who are looking for a quality piece of jewellery that is competitively priced and backed by a solid company that will stand behind the merchandise it sells.”

5/1/12 4:49:08 PM

coverstory In the end, Trepel has found that educating the customer is key. “Our goal is really about building lasting relationships with our customers,” he says. “We feel that we do a lot with our sales associates—in terms of training, development and education. The goal is to educate the customer because if they are satisfied, you’re going to get them back over and over. If a customer is coming in and, let’s say, they have a $4,000 budget, it’s important to educate them on how to spend that money to meet their needs.” passionate hearts

The company’s most recent ode to Canadian consumers was the launch of their Passionate Heart™ collection. Partnering up with an international supplier, Ben Moss felt confident about introducing this collection to the Canadian marketplace. “We see it as a specialty brand, targeting the consumer who is looking for a branded Canadian diamond that is high quality and an excellent cut. Passionate Heart diamonds have the hearts and arrows effect, which really speaks to excellent cut. [It is really special] in terms of the way it’s presented, with its own unique display, special packaging, and the fact that our associates have been trained on selling the Passionate Heart diamonds,” explains Trepel. Back at Ben Moss HQ, the arrival of summer signals new developments, as the company revs up for the introduction of two new programs that are currently hush-hush and are set to be launched in early fall. “One is a new collection and one is an alternative service to the customer, which I think is going to be very exciting,” he divulges. Online works

After a century of negotiating the ebbs and flows of the jewellery industry, Ben Moss Jewellers has come out on top, boasting 600 employees and a wide national reach. Its online store has enabled it to welcome the 21st century with strength and style. Following the early years of word-of-mouth advertising, the company now engages with customers via email, as well as in the social media arena on Twitter and Facebook. As Ben Moss continues to open up more stores, its contributions to the Canadian jewellery industry will, without a doubt, continue to grow. “We are fairly optimistic about the next few years,” Trepel says. “Basically, our executive team and our planning all revolves around how we continue to put Ben Moss in a leadership position, looking at continued store growth, building sales out of our existing stores, always looking to bring new and unique brands into the Canadian marketplace and [pursuing] innovative marketing initiatives.” [CJ]

At a Glance Ben Moss Jewellers Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba & 63 retail locations across Canada Phone: 1-888-236-6677 Website: Staff: 600 Top-selling products/brands: Passionate Heart Canadian Diamonds, Northern Spirit Canadian Diamonds, Embrazo, Breuning, Bulova, Citizen, Tissot and Movado

Top: Rose de France amethyst and diamond ring in 10k white gold Bottom: 1.25ct total weight invisible set diamond engagement ring in 14k white gold, featuring Embrazo Embrace setting technology exclusively from Ben Moss Jewellers

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Breitling Transocean Chronograph Unitime

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s evidenced by cable television being cluttered with antique hunters patrolling the garages and sheds of North America in search of vintage treasures of yesteryear, vintage and vintagestyle designs are continuing their upward trend in 2012. Given the vintage-style designs on display at BaselWorld 2012, throwback timepieces remain on the uptick. Vintage-style watches and their real-deal counterparts are trending on the wrists of consumers worldwide. True vintage watches—for instance, the Breguet timepieces famously worn by Aristotle Onassis, Queen Victoria and George Washington—are now priced in the millions, well beyond the reach of the mainstream customer. The New York Times stated on April 6, 2012: “The market for vintage timepieces has been booming. Watches are now the sixth largest department at Christie’s, accounting for $116 million in sales in 2011. That was a 26 per cent increase from the year before.” However, more attainable vintage-style watches are also gaining in popularity: retrofitted timepieces, expertly designed and crafted for the modern consumer. To illustrate this growing trend, we sought expert commentary on the mass-market, mid-range and high-end vintage-style timepiece offerings for 2012.

Express yourself

“What we wear on any given day is an expression of ourselves. Watches, today more than ever, are a part of our wardrobe. We are noticing from this past year that the more affordable ‘vintage looking’ watches are selling really well. For example, in Kenneth Cole, we are selling an ‘Automatic Skeleton’ movement watch for $199 retail. It looks very complicated and at the same time, very trendy,” says Mark Freidman of Carmen & Co. Jewellers. Even with history to draw from in regard to the design and creation of a vintage watch, the watchmaking industry has pinpointed what works, and what sells best. In the past, technology was not as advanced as it is today, which meant many more moving parts inside a timepiece. To compensate for not requiring complexity in function, the big trend in vintage-style watches for mass-market consumption is authentic craftsmanship in design, rather than the movement inside the watch itself. In the design, watchmakers must add levels of complexities drawn from the past, when they’re designing replicas. “I can tell you that, moving forward, the 'vintage' inspiration is bigger and hotter than ever!” says Greg Aron of Knightsbridge Jewellry. “Looking at the new releases from all the houses, big and small, high-end and boutique, the colour trends are all black, grey, green, brown and beige military tones. Design is, for the most part, military or professional-looking large dials and cases. The large vintage sport and military look is here for a while. It is simply a case of supply and demand.” Military look

Longines Weems Second Setting

Victorinox Swiss Army watches, a big brand built on vintage-style designs, in 2012, released the “Chrono Classic” and “Infantry Mechanical” timepieces. Even with modern functionality, these watches are reminiscent of the military look of the ‘40s. Many of the mid-range watches on display at BaselWorld 2012 did in fact have a military/aviation theme. For example, Hamilton’s Pioneer and Zenith’s Pilot Big Date Special were two pieces designed in homage to the aviation industry.

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Breitling TransOcean Chronograph Unitime

Grieb & Benzinger Blue Sensation, 2012 Collection

The market for vintage-style watches is male-skewed. Feeling nostalgia for the days of their grandfathers, men are also collecting watches in general, and more than they used to. “Today, the wristwatch is probably the single most desired and purchased fashion accessory a man will buy,” Aron says “Gone are the days of heavy gold jewellery of the disco ‘70s and ‘80s. As prices of the period watches soar, making them unaffordable to the majority of buyers, the modern watchmakers are producing more affordable 'vintage' inspired models. Today individuality is respected and accepted. For this reason, men in general need more than one watch in their collection. This way, they can change their watches like their clothes and moods.” Style spike

The spike in business from men is also attributed to the fact that the watch has become an accessory item, again, less relied upon for functional use. “Years ago, the consumer bought a watch primarily to tell the time,” says Peter Fuhrer of Rodania Canada. “In today's world, with all the electronic gadgets, the ‘telling time’ feature has become less of a factor. The watch has changed from a strictly practical and necessary item to an accessory. Traditionally, women have always used watches as accessories. Now men are catching up—after all, who wants to wear a tuxedo with hiking boots?”


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Versace Business GMT Black Dial, 2012 Collection

That said, the trend certainly does allow options for female consumers. For instance, eye-catching at BaselWorld 2012 was Chanel’s, “Mademoiselle Privee,” with its sundry Japanese motifs juxtaposed with simple modern functionality. Overall, though, watches are one of the few categories where men can show their individuality. “Watches can allow men to indulge in luxury, technology, fashion or all of the above in a manner which caters to them owning multiple styles to reflect their moods or needs,” says Kathryn Brown, assistant managing director of Sequel Canada. From the future

With primarily men carrying this trend, Hollywood is even getting in on the act. Nowhere is the premise of this feature more prevalent than with the new Hamilton Ventura “1969” and “2012” models, featured on the uniforms of Men in Black agents in the upcoming blockbuster movie, MIB3. Model “1969” distorts and warps the classic ‘50s/’60s businessman’s timepiece to resemble something designed from even our future. “2012” pulls the design even further forward in time. Hamilton is also taking inspiration from its own designs in the 1950s for 2012’s release of the Hamilton Intramatic. Continuing in the old Hollywood

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vintagewatches tradition, OMEGA has released two versions of the storied Seamaster Diver 300M to commemorate the 50th anniversary of James Bond 007, one of the most successful movie franchises of all time. Its most 
eyecatching feature is the “bullet” decoration on the rotor. Allowing for advancements in technology, current timepieces for men and women alike take their cues from modern art techniques that are mixed with older themes. Reflecting on the colour and design trends of vintage-style timepieces on display at BaselWorld 2012, Kathryn Brown says: “Vintage was definitely a key trend, showing modest cases, clean design with automatics as a key functionality.” “On the opposite side, there was also a trend toward artistic design, creating more three-dimensional looks on the dials. [At BaselWorld 2012] the trend seems to have been a lot of two-tone rose gold with combinations of steel and ceramics. There also seems to be a trend back to leather straps,” says Peter Fuhrer. Shades of grey

Vintage-style watches do significantly vary in colour and design, what with so many eras to draw from. That said, with military and business traditions of years-gone-by serving as primary inspiration, the overwhelming consensus for the colour of choice in 2012 was grey, in many different shades. This is most exemplified by the WW1Argentium from Bell & Ross. For 2012, Bell & Ross has also released its own line of vintage-style 1920s aviator wristwatches. Depending on the person, pop culture fanatics might be seeking a sleek and urban ‘50s Mad Men-style timepiece. For instance, the Citizen Signature Grand Classic, with its silvery and sleek face, could be seen as an ode to the post-industrial Revolution, when craftsmanship and manufacturing were of paramount importance. Candice Collins at Pierre Laurent Timepieces has noticed that many of their clientele like the juxtaposition of a sporty modern watch and a classic suit with a vintage skeleton timepiece. “Men are wearing their watches with specific clothing, mixing and matching different style watches with different aspects of their wardrobe,” she says. One evening out may call for a ‘50s Mad Men-style watch, such as the Zenith Captain Central Second, or an extended business trip abroad could require any one of the 1920s aviator timepieces. Adventure seekers may want the watch they wear on the road to resemble a golden-brown piece owned by an explorer, straight from the pages of an early copy of National Geographic. For instance, Breitling’s Transocean Chronograph Unitime features a rugged and worldly design, with major cities around the face, listed according to their time zone relative to Paris. It would give any world traveller a rush of nostalgia.

LoNgines respects the past Longines’ President, Walter Von Kanel, gave Canadian Jeweller some key insights into the brand’s foray into vintage-style watches. Q: Many vintage-style watches are in commemoration of historical events. Does Longines have any new and up-and-coming releases that are in honour of the past? A: This year, we have launched The Longines Saint-Imier Collection, which pays tribute to the village where Longines was born 180 years ago and where it has developed. These pieces are all fitted with mechanical movements and based on a case design inspired by a model dating back to 1945. This collection values the long tradition and the origins of Longines. Q: Our readers are independent and chain-store jewellery retailers, and as such, may buy different products. That said, what are the trends both need to know about vintage-style watches? Specifically, which watches can they buy to sell in the June and Christmas periods? A: We strive to give our products a peculiar character, the aesthetic refinement we all know as “elegance.” We also aim for timelessness and definitely for a classic style. I would say the models of The Longines SaintImier Collection, with their very elegant look, could please independent and chain-store jewelry retailers. Q: What style of vintage-style watches does Longines make available to retailers? What era is most popular in terms of vintagestyle watches? A: With four pillars— elegance, watchmaking tradition, sport and heritage— Longines proposes a wide and well-balanced offer of watches that have a strong legitimacy coming from our long history. The pieces of the Heritage pillar are definitely the most vintage. Our history is strongly linked to aviation, and we have various aviators’ watches as the Longines Twenty-Four Hours, the Longines Weems Second-Setting Watch and the Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch for example. We get the inspiration from several different periods. Q: Which vintage-style watches were featured at BaselWorld? A: Apart from The Longines Saint-Imier Collection, we have launched this year in Basel some commemorative pieces to celebrate our 180th Anniversary. One of them, The Longines Column-Wheel Single Push-Piece Chronograph, a monopusher chronograph in rose gold, is directly inspired by a model of 1913 and its dial, featuring a bright red “12,” recalls the Agassiz dial of the original version. It also has moving lugs that remind us of Longines’ prestigious heritage. Q: Do you see the vintage watch market as a strong and growing trend or simply a niche market? A: The vintage watch market is not a huge one, but watch lovers are really into it. With its long history and tradition in watchmaking, Longines has to have these kinds of watches in order to respect the past.

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Hours is a re-issue of a 24-hour watch designed in the 1950s specifically for Swissair pilots.

A piece of history

Friedman agrees: “It’s an opportunity for us to own a piece of history, a slice of time.”

1 2

World wars

How long will the trend persist? Only time will tell. Utilizing the nostalgia angle, many vintage-style watches have been crafted in commemoration of historical events. For example, in 2012, OMEGA is celebrating its “Speedmaster” timepiece, the only NASA-approved watch for every manned mission into space. They will honour the 50th anniversary of the “First OMEGA in Space” with an edition that recalls the watch astronaut Wally Schirra took with him into orbit in October, 1962.

In terms of vintage era, consumers are most attracted to timepieces with colour and design inspiration from WW1 to WW2. “I think the 1940s were a great era for vintage 3 watches: clean round dials, large Roman numerals and thin cases. This style can still be found in modern designs. Truly a classic style that will be around forever,” says Candice Collins. “Some [of our timepieces] are a modern take on vintage, while others are a throwback to an era when 1. Speedmaster “The first OMEGA in Space” watches were made with automatic 2. Speedmaster “The first OMEGA in Space” (back) 3. Victorinox Swiss Army Infantry Mechanical movements, no batteries or modern innovations. Our automatic watches In fact, a new tradition has emerged with many of today’s watchmakers: That of combining the original beauty of are made to last generations and to be passed down through the family. Our their most remarkable pieces from the past with cutting-edge watchmaking Traveler’s Collection is an example of our take on a ‘modern vintage’ style.” These watches with no automatic parts, clicking and clacking in perpetual technology. motion, carry a romance with them akin to Scorcese’s ode to silent cinema in the film HUGO. A big anniversary In 2012, Longines has gone back to its origins for inspiration. Fall 2012 marks Longines’ 180th anniversary, and using the brand’s self-declared historical Everyone agrees that the trend of vintage-style watches is on the rise. “[It know-how, the company is presenting many commemorative models taken is] definitely a growing market,” says Collins. “More people are tiring of from multiple eras throughout the 19th and 20th centuries. All of the the huge dials we have seen in recent years, and are looking for watches timepieces from Longines’ 2012 Heritage Collection have been crafted to that remind them of a time when watches were refined, timeless and resemble the same designs of the previous 100+ years. Of particular note quietly exclusive.” is Longines’ Column-Wheel Single Push Chronograph 180th Anniversary Owing to the individuality of each consumer, greater importance is being Edition, which closely resembles the model manufactured in 1913. placed on design craftsmanship rather than movement and functionality of In addition, Longines has released its own line of commemorative and the watch itself. nostalgic timepieces. The Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch is a re-issue of the timepiece developed for the American pilot Charles Lindbergh in 1931. Without a doubt, vintage watches will remain popular for men. Vintage The Weems Second-Setting Watch is a tribute to the navigation system designs are worn by those looking for a clean simplicity in their fashion; a developed by Captain Philip van Horn Weems. Finally, the Twenty-Four style that harks back to the good ol’ days. [CJ]


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For details, write #124 on Free Info Page, page 136

Rodania Mystery Collection High-tech ceramic & stainless steel 316L Rodania Canada Inc. TĂŠl.: +1 (514) 842 9136 Toll Free: 1-877-RODANIA (763-2642) 1255 University, # 508, Montreal, Qc. H3B 3V8, Canada Come and visit us at the following trade shows in 2012: Western Jewellery Show Edmonton, August 17-19th - booth # 822-824 MontrĂŠal Expo Prestige, August 26-28th - booth # 619

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designerprofile | GloriaBass

18k yellow gold “lotus” necklace set with orange sapphires


The only female master goldsmith in Canada is also a consummate creative artist BY BONNIE SIEGLER


n the late ‘70s, Montreal native Gloria Bass decided to act on a passion, and opened her retail jewellery shop, which has been successful for more than 27 years. After taking courses in San Diego, California, and a six-year apprenticeship with a European jeweller in Montreal, Bass channeled her passion for design and her skills as a goldsmith into building the stellar reputation that Gloria Bass Designs enjoys today. “My first jewellery teacher in San Diego opened a whole new world for me,” says Bass about her earliest inspirations. “I had never seen ‘art’ jewellery before; I had no idea what could be done with metal. My apprenticeship several years later taught me about fine jewellery making and design.” In 1975, Bass took a jewellery-making course with a Native-American teacher in the southwestern U.S. Before long, she conceived her first piece


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of jewellery. “It was a ring with a big, oval American turquoise cabochon with silver beading around it,” she recalls. Since then, her jewellery sensibilities can be found in every Gloria Bass Design created. Now working in 18k, 22k, 24k gold and platinum, Bass has recently begun combining 18k yellow gold with silver, due to the high price of gold. She says yellow gold is her favourite. Still mostly men

Today, Bass – a wife, mother and grandmother – is the only female master goldsmith in Canada, an outstanding accomplishment in a maledominated field. “It’s been a long road uphill,” says Bass. “There are many more women in this field now, as there should be, although it is still mainly a male arena.”

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GloriaBass | designerprofile

So I do look at a lot of objects and transform them into possible jewellery pieces in my head.” Curiosity, creative talent and personal observations have been integrated into every Bass collection. “For instance, I have seen splendid old steel chains on European buildings that work beautifully on a much smaller scale in gold…textures on the sides of walls, a flower about to open….all this turns into wearable art.” day and evening 18k white gold necklace, white and blue diamonds, baroque South Sea pearls

Bass also likes to make sure her statement-making designs can be worn for work and evening events. “When one makes an investment in a piece of custom-designed jewellery, it’s nice to get a lot of mileage out of it. I always tell people to wear their jewellery and not save it. Life is too short.” Not only is Bass’s personality instilled in every collection, the wearer’s needs, preferences and individual personality are also reflected in every object, making each appear chic and trendy.

So, does she feel a sense of empowerment with this accomplishment? A quick reply: “I guess I feel more empowered by my knowledge of my field, rather than by my sex.” Passion and technique

When asked why she pursued such an arduous task, she answers: “Passion! I fell in love with the métier. I have always worked with my hands, and have always loved jewellery. I love the technical aspects and the challenges of fabricating a new piece of jewellery, always being aware of the limitations such as weight, cost and other factors. It is extremely satisfying to see a piece finished and to have the client thrilled as well.” A self-professed “perfectionist by nature,” Bass uses distinctive goldsmithing techniques that are combined with colourful gems and sensual pearls. “I love stones with intense colours and lots of brilliance,” she explains of her choice of stones. “I like unusual and uncommon stones, though I tend to stick with rather classic shapes – round, oval, cushion. My jewellery is contemporary, yet classic, and it stands the test of time.”

“The women who wear my jewellery certainly have self-confidence because of the ability to choose a piece of wearable art rather than a mass produced or logo-branded piece of jewellery,” says Bass. Yet as far as current fashion is concerned, Bass’s collections are also timeless. “I do follow certain trends such as chunky jewellery or long, dangling earrings; however, in actuality, those are usually a staple because I happen to love those looks. I still always have smaller, more classic looks for people who prefer that.” A mix of colour

Bass’s jewellery is sold internationally, and she concentrates her business on private sales, preferring the intimacy when working with the end purchaser. For her 2012 collection, she is embracing “a mix of colour both in metals and stones…really more of the same, just new and fresh!” Bass also takes pride in being one of two Canadian designers who planned and produced a jewellery collection for the Royal Canadian Mint. [CJ]

18k rose gold ring with rare coloured zircon, rubies, orange and pink sapphires

Bass tries to avoid stones that may cause problems from daily wear, such as too soft or brittle textures. “Diamonds, and especially coloured diamonds, also play a large part in my work. The sparkle from diamonds just cannot be obtained from anything else.” Art from observation

Bass’s designs have often been referred to as wearable pieces of art, and the creator concurs. “I’m curious. My eyes are always open, and I’m constantly aware of my surroundings – be it architecture, nature, engineering….

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5/4/12 9:32:21 AM




La Chine L

e cabinet Roland Berger Strategy Consultants a organisé en décembre dernier dans ses bureaux parisiens une conférence sur le thème de la Chine et du luxe. Les intervenants ont donné leurs réponses à quelques questions fondamentales : jusqu’où et jusqu’à quand le luxe peut-il s’étendre en Chine ? Quel sera son influence sur les équilibres fondamentaux du luxe ? Quels seront les impacts sur nos grandes marques européennes ?

change-t-elle le luxe ?

La Chine caracole en tête des marchés du luxe. C’est ce constat qui a incité le cabinet Roland Berger Strategy Consultants à organiser une conférence intitulée « La Chine va-t-elle changer le luxe ? ». A l’issue des débats, on serait tenté d’affirmer que la Chine a déjà changé le marché international du luxe et que l’évolution n’en est qu’à son commencement. Bernard Malek et Jason Ding, Partners des bureaux de Paris et de Pékin de Roland Berger Strategy Consultants ont présenté le 6 décembre dernier à Paris les résultats d’une étude de consommation en Chine que le cabinet indépendant a réalisée tout au long de l’année 2011 pour mieux connaître le consommateur chinois et sa relation au luxe.


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Par Carine Loeillet


Le secteur du luxe en Chine représente 23 milliards d’euros de chiffre d’affaires, avec 60% des ventes réalisées hors de Chine par des Chinois. En 2015, ce C.A. devrait atteindre 57 milliards d’euros, avec une moyenne de 25% de taux de croissance annuelle.

Le consommateur chinois est responsable de 70% de la consommation mondiale du marché du luxe. Cette consommation est consacrée aux cadeaux à hauteur de 22% seulement, tandis que 78% sont des achats pour soi. La Chine compte 30 millions de consommateurs de produits de luxe, ce qui représente 5% de la population urbaine totale. En général, ces consommateurs sont jeunes : 60% de la population urbaine qui achète du luxe a entre 20 et 39 ans. Mais ce ne sont que rarement des achats spontanés. Marques et produits sont repérés avant de se rendre dans une boutique. Les facteurs d’influence sont avant tout le bouche-à-oreille (51%), la presse (43%), les magasins (43%) et la télévision (38%). Sans oublier Internet qui joue en rôle important.

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cjenfrançais Si la joaillerie représentait 71% du luxe en Chine en 2008, elle ne représente plus que 62% car d’autres secteurs se sont lancés dans la compétition. Pour l’heure, la Chine s’est hissée au rang de premier marché mondial du luxe et mérite que les maisons qui s’y intéressent adaptent leur stratégie à ce géant. Civilisation

Pour Emmanuelle Sidem, Partner de ConnexConsulting, conseil en management des marques de luxe, « la Chine va transformer l’industrie du luxe entière, non seulement à cause de la taille de ce marché mais surtout par la spécificité de cette civilisation ». Cet immense pays représente une masse d’arrivants qui impactent l’offre. Comment répondre à la demande en conservant la même qualité aux produits, l’exclusivité de la marque, le service ? Par ailleurs, comment faire le grand écart entre la dynastie Shang et Confucius ? Les Chinois commencent à racheter des marques occidentales et à créer aussi leurs propres marques qui viennent concurrencer les marques européennes ou américaines. A leurs yeux, un produit se définit par la marque, il est essentiel de venir avec des marques fortes et connues, sans pour autant que soit garantie la fidélité de la clientèle. Pour un Européen qui souhaite réussir dans ce pays, il faut être sûr de sa force et de ses convictions. Il faut ensuite s’intéresser en profondeur à la culture de ses habitants, qu’ils soient consommateurs ou collaborateurs. Car il est difficile de les fidéliser. Pour cela, la notion de service est essentielle. Les Français ont un atout, ils bénéficient d’une fascination et d’une attraction réciproques entre la Chine et la France. A eux de savoir créer le dialogue entre deux arts de vivre. Humilité

« Faire du business dans ce pays exige humilité et prudence extrêmes », fait remarquer Christian Blanckaert, Senior Advisor de ConnexConsulting. Christian Blanckaert est aussi professeur de management à l’ESCP (École supérieure de commerce de Paris), il a été p-dg de la maison Hermès Sellier et directeur général d’Hermès International de 1996 à 2009, il fut également président délégué du Comité Colbert de 1988 à 1996. Sa longue expérience du marché chinois l’incite à se méfier des certitudes. Il met en avant le potentiel incroyable de la Chine, qui représenterait 15 à 20% du marché du luxe mondial. « Mais là-bas, le rapport au temps n’est pas le même, note-t-il. Comprendre la vitesse avec laquelle la Chine évolue est difficile ». Il y a encore quelques années, tout le monde considérait le Japon comme le futur marché du luxe ; la Chine a donné un coup d’accélérateur et a changé la donne. Cependant, les classes moyennes chinoises conservent un ticket d’entrée sur le marché du luxe qui est le plus bas du monde : elles se serrent la ceinture

Jean Christophe

pour s’offrir un objet de marque. Car la génération actuelle est issue de parents qui ont vécu la révolution culturelle. Il est essentiel de prouver son succès à sa famille et d’affirmer que le passé est écarté. Un produit de luxe étranger devient ainsi un marqueur social. En même temps, les Chinois lient le luxe au savoir-faire. Ce marché ne peut donc pas être segmenté à l’américaine, il reste hétérogène et compte de véritables pays dans le pays. Il apparaît aussi comme extensible pratiquement à l’infini. En effet, l’urbanisation va croissant. En 2025, 70% des Chinois devraient habiter en ville. Aujourd’hui, 50 millions d’entre eux voyagent et en 2025, ils seront peut-être 100 millions à le faire. Or, la France reste la première destination touristique au monde. Une chance à saisir, à condition de savoir les recevoir. Pour l’ensemble des maisons de luxe, le marché est colossal. L’expansion sera accentuée par le progrès social, qui sera inévitable. La Chine reste le pays au monde qui épargne le plus (à hauteur de 54%) à cause de l’absence de protection sociale. Un jour, cet argent sera utilisé dans la consommation. Avant d’aborder ce marché complexe, à la culture profonde, il faut se donner du temps et de la réflexion. Et ne pas oublier que les Chinois commencent à entrer eux aussi dans le secteur du luxe et que leur capacité entrepreunariale n’est pas négligeable. [CJ]

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bijoux vintage La tendance est aux Par Marie-Claude Veillette


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’est un privilège pour un bijou de passer l’épreuve du temps. S’il est de bonne qualité, bien conservé, serti de pierres précieuses, et toujours agréable à porter après toutes ces années, il trouvera preneur. C’est encore plus vrai s’il est signé par la Maison Lucas, la famille Zimmerman de Québec, le joaillier Armand Brochard, le designer montréalais Gustave Sherman et autres grands noms de la joaillerie. À une époque où la majorité des bijoux sont fabriqués à la machine, les bijoutiers remarquent un regain d’intérêt pour les bijoux millésimés, inspirés de la période victorienne, de l’Art nouveau, de l’Art déco ou de l’époque Rétro. Fabriqués de façon artisanale par des créateurs d’une époque révolue, les bijoux vintage ont ce petit « quelque chose » qui interpelle les plus nostalgiques. « Certains vont acheter un bijou ancien parce qu’ils aiment l’époque ou encore parce que le style du bijou fait appel à leurs souvenirs, leur rappelant par exemple la broche camée de grand-maman », indique le consultant en antiquités Gregory Cancé. Qu’on aime ou non, les bijoux anciens sont empreints de romantisme et ils racontent une histoire intéressante sur leur époque, mais aussi sur les techniques utilisées par les joailliers au fil du temps. « Ce qui distingue le bijou ancien du bijou moderne, c’est la qualité exceptionnelle du travail, le design unique et la qualité des pierres. Pour obtenir la même qualité aujourd’hui, il faut payer très cher. Le bijou ancien ou de seconde main coûte généralement moins cher, ce qui constitue une alternative intéressante », indique Odile Civitello, gemmologue et évaluateur, fondatrice de l’École de gemmologie de Montréal. Cet enthousiasme pour le marché secondaire n’a rien de surprenant selon Mme Civitello qui ajoute que la tendance est au vintage, « c’est vrai dans l’industrie du bijou, mais aussi dans l’industrie de la mode en général. On n’a qu’à regarder l’industrie du vêtement ou du meuble. Le style vintage est partout ». Mode passagère ou véritable phénomène de société, ce goût pour tout ce qui est vintage suscite l’intérêt des bijoutiers qui sont de plus en plus nombreux à racheter des bijoux anciens directement des particuliers. « C’est une tendance qu’on remarque. De plus en plus de marchands négocient de gré à gré avec les particuliers. Parce qu’ils achètent directement du consommateur, ils peuvent en tirer un prix de revente intéressant et ainsi aller chercher une source de revenus supplémentaire en ces temps plus difficiles en raison de l’augmentation du prix de l’or et des diamants bruts » affirme M. Cancé. Par ailleurs, les bijoutiers qui rachètent des bijoux des particuliers gagnent sur deux fronts : ils en tirent un profit et rendent service à leurs clients avec qui ils tissent des liens de confiance. Antiquaire à Montréal, Sébastien Cauchy a des clientes d’un bout à l’autre du pays; des femmes âgées de 50 à 65 ans, friandes des bijoux signés Sherman, plus particulièrement des bracelets rigides sertis de pierres du Rhin. L’entrée de gamme pour ce type de bracelet tourne autour de 200 dollars. Les modèles plus rares et plus imposants peuvent se vendre entre

800 et 1200 dollars. « Les broches non signées, serties de pierre du Rhin ou non, sont aussi très populaires, cette fois auprès d’une clientèle plus jeune. Elles se détaillent entre 20 et 100 dollars en général » affirme M. Cauchy. Gemmologiste-diamantaire de renom, spécialisée dans la vente de bijoux de succession anciens, Jocelyne Rouleau rejoint elle aussi une clientèle essentiellement constituée de femmes. Il s’agit la plupart du temps de professionnelles âgées de 35 ans et plus qui recherchent de la qualité à meilleur prix. Comme dans le bijou contemporain, les prix varient beaucoup, « j’ai des bijoux à 15 dollars, mais j’en ai aussi à 20 000 dollars. Pour pouvoir rentabiliser ce volet, il faut être en mesure d’expliquer à l’acheteuse le contexte historique du bijou. Par exemple, les bijoux datant d’après la 2e guerre mondiale ou fabriqués durant l’occupation du Japon sont très recherchés. » Mme Rouleau attire aussi une clientèle de jeunes filles qui vont se tourner vers les bijoux de fantaisie vintage pour leur bal de finissants par exemple. « Les jeunes femmes vont rechercher des ensembles de fantaisie comprenant le collier, le bracelet et les boucles d’oreilles. Le prix d’un ensemble peut varier entre 60 et 200 dollars en fonction de la signature. Les bijoux signés Sherman, Continental, Trifari ou Coro se vendent très bien. » Les prix varient d’un modèle à l’autre, d’une couleur à l’autre, bref, les prix sont fixés en fonction de la rareté, de l’originalité, de l’état de conservation et de la griffe du designer. Pour être sûr de faire une bonne affaire, mieux vaut s’y connaître en bijoux anciens ou encore s’en remettre à des experts capables d’authentifier les pièces de valeur et établir leur valeur marchande. Il faut savoir que ce n’est pas tous les bijoux de seconde main qui ont une valeur intrinsèque, autre qu’une valeur de refonte. Comme la valeur marchande d’un bijou ancien dépend de ses composantes, les bijoutiers qui s’y connaissent moins en antiquités ont tout intérêt à demander l’aide d’experts-joailliers et gemmologistes reconnus, membres d’une association professionnelle ou encore consulter certains sites spécialisés comme Pour établir la valeur et la demande d’un bijou sur le marché, les experts évaluent la qualité des pierres (naturelles, synthétiques, traitées?) et la nature du métal utilisé (or, platine, argent), l’époque de fabrication du bijou, l’état de conservation, et finalement sa rareté. « Les connaisseurs vont s’intéresser à l’histoire du bijou et vont vouloir connaître sa provenance. Est-il sorti d’une grande Maison, a-t-il appartenu à une famille célèbre. Ils vont s’intéresser à la qualité des pierres et vont vouloir s’assurer de pouvoir porter le bijou en question », précise M. Cancé. Parce qu’ils racontent une histoire, notre histoire, « les bijoux de bonne fabrication méritent d’être protégés à toutes les étapes de leur parcours » martèle la gemmologiste-diamantaire, Jocelyne Rouleau. La passionnée d’histoire et de bijoux anciens précise qu’un bijou de succession, qui n’est pas toujours ancien, le deviendra un jour et que s’il est de bonne qualité et bien conservé, il continuera à vivre pour le plus grand plaisir des générations futures. [CJ]

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4/27/12 10:18:13 AM


Online success strategies


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Some products are best sold in person — others may be better suited to online sales By Sarah O’Connor

Although diamonds are forever, the way we sell them is constantly in flux. Today’s modern, empowered consumers expect retailers to engage with them on their own terms, and more of these interactions are taking place through online channels. “Everyone else wants to see what’s new, what’s hot, what’s selling in terms of the latest jewellery trends, and the quickest way to do that is through your online presence,” says Rishabh Kamesra of House of Jewellery in Toronto. “The older people in the industry are still scared of the computer, in a way. They don’t always want to go online, either, because they don’t understand it or they’re just not familiar with it.”

Turbulent launch

Zehara Abbas and her husband experienced a true trial by fire as they were launching their new company, Zuri Diamonds, in late 2011. “I believed that our online presence would make all the difference,” says Abbas. “We’re younger and we spend most of our lives glued to our laptop screens. Maybe because of that, we felt it was extremely important to have a website first and foremost. “The first time we decided to launch our website we had a gentleman working on it who had promised us two weeks, but then took two and a half months to complete it, thereby delaying our website launch. Then

A lot to gain

Kamesra believes that retailers and wholesalers alike have a tremendous amount to gain by establishing a strong online presence. He does acknowledge that jewellers have unique challenges to overcome. “I think it’s really important to be online,” he says. “For our business, it’s helped us out tremendously. “For jewellery retailers it’s a bit tricky because it’s not like a restaurant where you have a fixed menu, and you can post it online for people to look through and basically decide if they want to eat there. Retail stores have so many different SKUs in their stores. They might carry a Pandora-type of line, a silver line, a gold line, an engagement line; they just have so many different product lines, which I feel makes it tough, but people are looking online.”

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we got hacked by an Albanian hacking crew that likes to hack random websites and put their presence up there. Then we went to another website developer who turned out to be a scam artist. After that, we went to yet another website developer. So it took us quite some time — it was quite a gruesome affair.” It’s important

With all these headaches, weren’t Abbas and her husband tempted to just put their website on the back burner as they were launching their company? “The website is just as important as the inside of your store and your customer service because, especially for a lot of younger people, your online presence is your personality,” she answers. “The website is the foundation and the base of our company. It legitimizes who we are, what we stand for, what kind of company we are and what kind of service we’ll be providing.” Abbas believes that the many ups and downs involved in launching their website actually improved the final product, and taught them some important lessons along the way. “The silver lining was that we got tons of great ideas from them about how to make [our website] more user friendly, more visually appealing. Along the way I would get input on how to make it a little more [search engine optimization]-friendly and things like that. To save time and to save money in the long run, I would only recommend going with a very trusted website developer.”

than drive online sales. Both companies are prepared for the role of their websites to evolve over time. Touch and feel

“Jewellery is still one of those markets where there are more people who want to touch and feel a $10,000 engagement ring rather than just blindly ordering it online,” says Kamesra. “We do a lot of email marketing campaigns, and we feel that, even if it doesn’t result in someone buying something right away, it’s just a constant reminder of House of Jewellery. Some people get annoyed and they unsubscribe from our emails, which is fine, and some people love it. They say ‘I know what you have, I know you’re there, and even if I don’t need anything right now, maybe in six or eight months I will need something.’ And we do often see them buy something later on.” House of Jewellery is in the process of creating a retail-style site where consumers can enter their postal code and find jewellers near them that carry the House of Jewellery line. “I think we’re seeing a shift towards trusting what we’re purchasing online,” says Abbas. “Personally, I purchase so much online, though I’m still uncomfortable purchasing my groceries online. I think that for less expensive diamond rings and things like that, which are our specialty, people would be comfortable purchasing online and that eventually we’ll have to respond to that clientele.

Getting younger

“As the industry becomes younger, because in a lot of the family businesses the parents or grandparents are retiring and the younger generation is taking over, they know what’s online and they know what’s easy for them to navigate through to find whatever’s trendy or whatever they’re looking for,” says Kamesra. “The best retail sites are very refined and to the point. If they are selling diamond engagement rings, they have the four Cs described, links to the GIA website so people can get more information, and they put up maybe 50 of their top-selling SKUs or 50 of their top-selling engagement rings. They do realize that once you pass that 50 or 75 image mark, people really don’t go looking through it that much, they just want to get an idea of what you’re selling.” At this point, Kamesra and Abbas view their websites as indirect sales tools, designed to engage and inform customers and prospects rather

“For the more expensive items, when people are spending several thousand dollars or more, they’re interested in making that purchase in person, at least right now. I’m not entirely sure how the market will shift over time because online shopping is just so much easier. And now we see so many simulated diamonds out there in the market, I wonder if people will want to be able to compare prices and make purchases online.” For Abbas, the dynamic role of Zuri Diamonds’ online presence typifies the company’s business philosophy. “As a business, you need to constantly be growing. You’re never stagnant, never thinking, OK, this is perfect the way it is. There’s always room for improvement.” [CJ] What do you think? Go to and post a comment!





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Currency conundrums Doing business internationally does not have to come with increased risk


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â&#x20AC;˘ By Mark Frey

4/27/12 11:38:47 AM



n today’s uncertain markets, currency volatility may be a significant factor in doing business internationally. However, this risk doesn’t have to derail your business results. By putting in place a strategy to manage the risk, you can stop being a currency trader and instead focus on doing what you do best: selling jewellery. Whether your suppliers come from New York, Belgium or Israel, global vendor relationships have always been a fact of business life for many retailers across Canada. The last few years have seen the emergence of a consuming middle class in many developing markets, which has opened opportunities for Canadian firms and precious stones mined in Canada. While doing business internationally has always been part of the Canadian mining and natural resources industry, there has never been a more volatile time to be conducting cross-border business involving the exchange of currencies. Precious stones, like every other commodity in today’s marketplace, are mostly denominated in U.S. dollars and, to a lesser extent, Euros.

That’s why volatility in currency markets can impact the global pricing of stones and metals, even if you’re negotiating in Canadian dollars—the benchmark price itself is a floating target. Volatility in financial markets, in particular for precious metals and currencies, has become a regular occurrence in recent years. Most market participants believe that the strained market conditions and increased volatility we’ve seen since the onset of the financial crisis aren’t likely to abate any time soon. The market places a price on volatility itself, just like it would on a commodity. Those prices, or implied volatility levels as they are commonly known, are remaining stubbornly elevated compared to historic norms. Volatility ahead

An effective way to predict future volatility is to take a gauge of the market’s consensus views, or lack thereof, for the intermediate future. Generally speaking, the wider the range of analysts’ expectations, the less clear the overall market direction, and the more volatility we are likely to see.

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At present, there is no consensus on the broader market, and if we follow conventional wisdom, this lack of consensus will likely contribute to sustained volatility in the future. To this point, many have accepted currency risk, and the losses it can create, as a cost of doing business. If your organization is sourcing product in U.S. dollars or Euros, and selling product and realizing revenues in Canadian dollars, a depreciating loonie or appreciating U.S. dollar or Euro can significantly impact your bottom line. Risk reduction strategies

There are many hedging strategies that can be used to reduce or even eliminate the impact of fluctuating currencies on your business, thereby ensuring that the value of the loonie doesn’t impair your ability to achieve your desired financial results. Here’s a simple example to help you evaluate whether hedging is right for you or your business: Let’s evaluate the challenge of managing currency risk from the perspective of a Canadian retailer who purchases product from a supplier in New York that only bills in U.S. dollars with 60-day terms, where payment is due at delivery. At the same time, let’s assume that to remain competitive in her local market, the retailer doesn’t have a great deal of flexibility in terms of increasing her prices in the display cases if she wants to actually sell that merchandise she is about to order. The challenge here is that the retailer is agreeing to a price today for merchandise that won’t be in her store window for another 60 days. If the loonie depreciates markedly in that time, she will have to pay more in Canadian dollars for the same product in 60 days, without being able to pass that cost increase on to her retail customers in the form of higher prices. Buy U.S. dollars

The solution would be for the retailer to execute a “hedge” to purchase U.S. dollars, 60 days out into the future. By locking in the price that she knows she will pay for the required U.S. dollars, our retailer is essentially fixing the Canadian-dollar-based cost of her product, thereby locking in her targeted profit margin. In doing so, our retailer can buy with the confidence that it makes no difference if she sources her product through a Canadian or U.S.-based wholesaler; the only question becomes where she can source the best product at the best price.


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In our example, we simply stated that our retailer in question executed a hedge to purchase U.S. dollars for settlement at a future date. There are a number of different ways this can be achieved. Forward contracts often form the backbone of foreign exchange hedging strategies for large multinational corporations and small businesses alike. Locking in now

Simply put, a forward contract allows our retailer to lock in today’s rate for settlement at a future point in time. Once locked in, a forward provides the purchaser with absolute protection from an unfavourable movement in the exchange rate, guaranteeing the ability to buy or sell a foreign currency at the specified price by the expiry date, regardless of what happens in the market. The one key downside of a forward contract, however, is that it is a commitment to buy or sell a foreign currency at a specific price. If the market trades favourably over the time frame in question, a forward contract allows for no participation in that favourable market movement. As a result, there can be a significant opportunity cost when employing a simple forward in trending market conditions. Zero-cost options

An alternative available to a simple forward contract that addresses this key shortcoming comes via a group of products called “zero-cost options.” These aim to combine the downside risk protection of a forward with the ability to participate in at least a portion of any favourable market movement that happens, with no premium or fee. In accepting a protection or budget rate that is slightly less attractive than that of an equivalent forward at the outset, zero-cost options can allow our retailer to participate in at least a portion of any favourable appreciation the loonie may experience. Furthermore, our retailer may choose to employ a zero-cost option strategy. This would ensure her pricing remains competitive if the Canadian dollar appreciates after she has decided to place a hedge to protect her business against the downside risk inherent within the currency. She would then be able to ensure that she still benefits from at least a portion of any favourable move in the loonie. And, this would ensure that the prices in her display cases wouldn’t be materially dissimilar from those of another retailer who chooses not to protect their downside risks. [CJ] Mark Frey is VP Payment and Risk Solutions at Cambridge Mercantile Group

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metamorphosis Men’s jewellery has evolved from “faux pas” to “fashion forward”

By Jeff Elliott

Silver Scudi bracelets, featuring shield links, from Mirage Creations/Nova Diamonds


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ashion trends in men’s jewellery have changed dramatically over the years. While ancient warriors proudly donned homemade, bonelinked proto-bracelets to ward off evil spirits, and King Tut insisted on being buried with mounds of bronzed statement pieces, modern-day men have since turned many a blind eye to the trends. The snubs may have been caused by a knee-buckling recession; however, at present, more attention is rightfully being paid to men’s jewellery. With so many fresh labels and brilliantly conceived designs, men’s jewellery has broken free from the confines of the faux pas to appear on the wrists of enthusiastic gentlemen. Whether the observer’s muse is a well-groomed celebrity strutting down a red carpet, or a vigilant local trendsetter seen on a side street, it’s official: men have become distinguishably flashier than they used to be.

Silver honeycomb ring, available in raw white and semi-polished gun metal, from Mirage Creations/Nova Diamonds

Style revamp

Strapped into traditional style, only recently are men going beyond the staples of stainless steel and yellow gold, choosing to seek versatility in unique pieces that aim to freshen up an otherwise generic look. And, rather than disregarding the classics, guys are finding comfort in their expression, giving time-honoured style a modern-day revamp. “Men are moving away from a generalized, standard comfort zone and wearing more fashionable, trendier pieces,” says Freydi Neuwirth-Traurig, a gemologist at Atlantic Engraving Ltd. “There is an increase in going with a classic look with a modern edge.” She observes that men are opting for wider 8-10 mm rings with bold patterns and rugged background finishes, increasingly requesting diamonds and coloured stones in their wedding rings. “Precious metal always reigns,” she says, declaring black rhodium accents, sterling silver and gold to be the most intrinsically valuable metals.

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4/27/12 10:21:23 AM


Patented Dura Tungsten bands, from Stuller

Accessories make the man

It’s pertinent, though, that many men are adhering to fashion accessories that pose as statement pieces, rather than symbolic timepieces. The shift to donning affordable, non-traditional materials such as leather, wood, polished stones and chrome metal finishes has been central to men’s contemporary look. Nowadays, with style shyness slowly disintegrating, a man can instantly transform his image by throwing on a necklace or strapping on a handsome leather cuff. And this concept of standing out is largely due to the influence of European men, who pile on bracelets with insouciance. “I think it’s interesting that European style has always made it much easier for men to accessorize with jewellery: the gold chain, the wrist watch, earrings, bracelets, charms and, of course, rings,” says fashion blogger Justine Laboni. “Only recently, in light of instantaneous exchange of information, has it become OK for North American guys to adopt a more stylized look.” Trending trinkets

Paying homage to a conventionally accessorized ensemble is still a forerunner on the trend scene—and things will not get any less masculine any time soon. In fact, part of the season’s allure, albeit more striking than others, is that it carries the idea of old-Hollywood style. A man who tosses on a pair of cufflinks, positions a well-crafted pocket pen and puts on a simple anchor-clasp bracelet emanates confidence, strength and style.


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Steve Turac, managing director at TIG Group, knows convention quite well. Aiming to sell contemporary, everyday jewellery for men, he sells his Ostbye line of surgical-grade stainless steel pieces to jewellery stores. “We are feeding into the pop culture phenomenon,” he says, speaking highly of the Mad Men-like panache of tie clips, cufflinks and pens. “It’s not blingbling, just everyday contemporary fashion.” The twist, however, is that a man can be old Hollywood one day and a little more glam the next, without tarnishing his image or eliciting confusion. “Do not be surprised to see leather, rubber, glass, and pearls with a sensuous masculine touch, to form new lines of men’s bracelets and necklaces,” says Dimitri Smolens, president, DSD Groupe Design. “They will be tempted to lean more towards a status and trendsetting type of jewellery purchase, [as opposed to] the old-school status symbols.” More adventurous

Men who might have eschewed jewellery in the past are now experimenting with casual, fancier items. Tatsiana Feifer, a representative from Mirage Creations, says that, while North Americans may not be as adventurous as Europeans, there are subtle pieces that can worn to achieve the same stylish look. “Layering is definitely the biggest trend with regard to men’s jewellery; whether it’s a combination of silk ropes, silver, gold or any alternative material, stacking is definitely in style,” Feifer says. “And as far as designs go, skulls seem to be a staple in men’s jewellery, influencing many brands to adopt some sort of skull-related piece into their lines.”

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“We are feeding into the pop culture phenomenon...

It’s not bling-bling, just everyday contemporary fashion.

Praised by street-style bloggers, this fad of “mangles”—yes, it’s even received a unique idiom—is highly sought after, thanks to male models adorning themselves with feather necklaces and heaps of leather cuffs interspersed with nylon cords and woven bracelets, at multiple Fashion Week events this year. Keep the uniform

Stainless steel cufflink with mesh, from Ostbye

Ultimately, accessories allow a man to feel unique, without relinquishing the uniform. Whether it is a classic tungsten band or an array of titanium dog tag necklaces, men are invited to be as classic or showy as they wish— or even a little of both. Trends are always developing, and it’s never certain which of them will stick around for the long haul. Though wrist watches and wedding rings have always been the industry’s heaviest hitters, the marrying of contemporary style with precision quality and strategic branding has brought substantial growth to local retailers and suppliers, and should continue to drive much of the market. “With the issues of less disposable income, inflation and the high costs associated with precious commodities, men have little choice than to accessorize themselves with contemporary metal jewellery,” says Glenn Miller, vice president of Contemporary Metals. Bigger market

Due to the popularity of tungsten, contemporary metal bands with diamonds, leather and stainless steel men’s accessories, Miller and many others in the industry are currently experiencing a welcome increase in their division’s market share.

18k gold and rubber bracelet (gold 17gr), from Mirage Creations/Nova Diamonds


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Justine Laboni has been just as quick to recognize the benefits modern designs have had on the market: “Designers breaking onto the scene aren’t forced into a small box of marketability, and can actually make pieces for men that are unusual, daring and edgy, without it being too risky of a business venture,” she says. “Knowing that men will actually wear jewellery and are interested in it renders its creation all the more worthwhile on the whole.” [CJ]

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Olympics and Royal Diamond Jubilee fever creates demand for themed jewellery By Sarah Carpin

ll eyes will be on Britain this summer, as the nation hosts the Olympic Games and celebrates the Royal Diamond Jubilee. Its jewellery retailers and brands are hoping that all this attention will also bring a boost in sales.

The U.K. government’s department for Culture, Media and Sport has said the effect of the Olympic Games will be felt long after they have ended, and will be a “lasting legacy.” Several figures have already been put forward about the boost to retail sales that the Olympics and the Diamond Jubilee could bring, and jewellery retailers are planning a summer of promotions to increase sales from tourists and a patriotic home market, all looking for a slice of memorabilia. Many 2012 Q3 retail sales numbers have been predicted, from a “modest growth” by retail analysts Verdict, up to a spend of £750 million ($1,198,425,000) by the Olympic Games’ sponsor, Visa, or £200 million ($319,580,000) by analyst Retail Economics. However, most are agreed that there will be an increase in retail spend, driven by an upturn in tourism as international visitors make the most of the pound’s weak position.


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Kit Heath pendant

4/27/12 10:26:18 AM

ukinternationalreview Hoping for big business

The U.K. jewellery and watch market is estimated to be worth around £4.6 billion ($7,350,340,000) this year, and British retailers and brands are hoping to get a sizeable slice of any increase in summer trading.

Tateossian Spirit Of The Games Wax Cord Multi Colour Bracelet

Links of London is one home-grown brand that has become synonymous with the Olympic Games. It won the official London Organising Committee of the Olympic Games (LOCOG) sponsorship to be jewellery partner to the games in early 2010, debuting the first designs in its 2012 collection last year. The company has developed a wide range of product, including charms based on sports such as swimming and table tennis, as well as the 2012 Olympic logo and the official line of Team GB charm bracelets. All of Links of London’s 55 standalone stores in the U.K. and its website will sell both collections, and its 39 concessions and 190 wholesale partners also stock the lines. The brand’s chief executive, David Riddiford, has high hopes for footfall during the Games, especially at the brand’s newly opened standalone stores at the capital’s St. Pancras Station (home to the Eurostar train), and in London’s Stratford. “Our Westfield store is already very popular in its own right, and as one of the key entrances to the Olympic Park, we have high hopes for this store during Games time,” he says. Three-quarters of Olympic spectators are predicted to pass through the new Westfield shopping mall close to the Games’ site at Stratford. Tourists are also expected to make the most of the weak pound by flocking to London’s West End, an area that includes Oxford Street, Regent Street and Bond Street. Lucie Campbell platinum cluster diamond engagement ring

A boost for Harrods

London’s most iconic department store, Harrods, is also preparing for an increase in visitor numbers, with themed windows and in-store promotions linked to the Olympic Games and to the Diamond Jubilee. Harrods PR manager Sarah Eddlestone says jewellery will feature prominently within the store’s windows for the Jubilee: “In May, we will be revealing a display of crowns that have been commissioned by some of the designers we stock, including London jewellers like Theo Fennell, and Solange Azagury-Partridge, as well as De Beers and Chopard and fashion brands like Mulberry, while within the store we will be flying huge red flags and featuring custom designed gowns ‘fit for a queen.’ During the Olympics, we will obviously be promoting sports products, but the theme throughout the store will be ‘We Love London.’” John Lewis department store, a tier-three sponsor of the London Summer Games, plans to open Olympic-themed shops within 29 of its stores this summer. It will also sell London 2012 gear at its smaller stores. In preparation for an influx of visitors, many of London’s stores are under wraps while being refurbished, including U.K. jewellery retailers Boodles, while Annoushka (the fine jewellery brand launched by the founder of Links

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Dower & Hall Champion charm

of London Annoushka Ducas) is opening a second London standalone shop in July. Harry Winston is also ensuring that its new shop-in shop launch in Harrods will be completed in time for the predicted Olympic surge. Exports to Canada?

While London is seen as the greatest beneficiary of tourist sales during the summer, Olympic fever and a surge of patriotism in June as many communities celebrate the Royal Diamond Jubilee is making an impact on the entire country and on export opportunities, too. Retailers across the U.K. are planning diamond-jubilee-themed customer events and street parties, and dressing their windows with patriotic paraphernalia. And the jubilee association with diamonds means that many retail jewellers will be taking the opportunity to hold diamond-selling events for their best customers. Welsh jewellery brand Clogau Gold is hoping to capitalize on its royal associations as a follow-up to the success it had with the royal wedding last year. It has launched a necklace to celebrate the Diamond Jubilee to be sold in the U.K. and internationally. Clogau Gold’s brand manager, Sonia Menezes, says the brand is also looking at the U.S. and Canadian markets for its products, where jewellery and memorabilia with a British royal association has a consumer base. The Diamond Jubilee collections will be sold across the U.K. and on several airlines during the celebrations. “Other Diamond Jubilee-related opportunities include special Clogau shows for QVC U.S. and U.K. that will feature an exclusive Clogau Diamond Jubilee ring, and a limited edition version of the Jubilee pendant has been produced for Cunard shops,” says Menezes.

to a commemorative £5 coin sold within Signet’s U.K. multiple jeweller, H Samuel. Brands on board

Many brands are getting into the jubilee spirit too: Molly Brown London and Kit Heath are both U.K. silver jewellery brands that have launched British flag designed silver jewellery. Designer line Dower & Hall has launched both a Pearly Queen jubilee range and an Olympic-themed collection, while British wedding ring manufacturer Brown & Newirth London has developed a range of wedding rings that are set with 60 diamonds—representing Queen Elizabeth II’s 60 years on the throne. Diamonds within Brown & Newirth’s men’s range of rings are hand-set in kite-shaped settings, an echo of the kite-shaped commemorative Jubilee Hallmark, which has been launched by the U.K. Assay Office for 2012. A government U.K. Trade and Investment (UKTI) report also suggests that the Olympic Games and the Diamond Jubilee could be a positive export opportunity for many British retailers and manufacturers, including jewellery companies. London jewellery brand Tateossian is welcoming enquiries about the brand’s Olympic-themed products from its overseas partners. The company’s main stockists in Canada are Holt Renfrew and Harry Rosen. “And we’ve already sold our Olympic collection to Japanese department store, Isetan, as part of a British fair that was held in March,” says owner Robert Tateossian. Links of London, now owned by the global Folli Follie Group, is also looking to boost exports with its Olympic tie-in, with growth plans for the brand focused largely on Asia. London Jewellery Week

Other Diamond Jubilee promotions have been launched by U.K. jewellers, from a Jubilee 12.93 carat diamond cluster platinum ring on show at Bond Street jeweller Lucie Campbell (price on application), down


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Along with opportunities provided by the Olympics and Diamond Jubilee, the recently launched London Jewellery Week, held from June 11, is another opportunity for London’s jewellers to promote their products. It will be

4/27/12 10:27:20 AM

For details, write #129 on Free Info Page, page 136

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ukinternationalreview based at London’s historic Somerset House for the first time in 2012. The main events of Jewellery Week, now in its fourth year, will be a two-day trade show, Jewellery Show London, followed by consumer selling shows Treasure, and Goldsmith’s Pavilion. Goldsmith’s is selling Canadian Ice diamonds, as outlined in the March 2012 issue of Canadian Jeweller. Director of Jewellery Week, Della Tinsley, hopes that the week will grow beyond London as a national week to promote jewellery: “Many different events will be taking place across the capital, and for the first time this year, we will be holding a national shop window competition, to encourage jewellery retailers right across the country to participate.” Exhibitors at Jewellery Show London include many of the fashion brands that are dominant in the U.K., including Pandora. It is the silver fashion brands that have radically changed the U.K. jewellery market over the past five years. The U.K. Assay Office reports that 9k gold has had a dramatic drop of more than seven million articles, 30 per cent of volume, since 2001, as the yellow metal has declined in popularity. Spotlight on silver

The dominance of the three largest silver fashion brands—Pandora, Thomas Sabo and Links of London—has had a huge impact on the high street, and the most important catalyst for change has been Pandora. Willie Hamilton, the CEO of The Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ), the biggest U.K. buying group for independent retailers, with a membership representing more than 270 shops, says the Pandora effect has given a new lease on life to independent retailers.

Links of London Sweetie Bracelet with Sports Charm

“Many traditional retail jewellers were selling unbranded gold and diamond product for generations,” Hamilton says. “Then Pandora came into the market and everything changed. I had to convince many of our retailers to invest in Pandora as they had a reluctance to sell silver, let alone glass beads. Now, many of our members have seen huge financial benefits as Pandora franchisees operating several Pandora standalone shops. Within their own shops too, they have seen how the power of branding can increase jewellery sales and bring in a new, younger customer base.” CMJ trade shows

The success and growth of The CMJ over the past three years has meant that sales through the group have risen by 161 per cent since 2009, from some £28 million ($44,741,200) to more than £76 million ($121,440,400) in 2011. The CMJ holds two trade shows every year, with some 120 preferred suppliers exhibiting, including silver brands, diamond manufacturers, watch brands, leading U.K. designer brands, such as Shaun Leane and Dower & Hall, along with up and coming designer talent. “We have two Canadian diamond brands in our group,” said Hamilton. “These are Corona Diamonds and the HRA Group, and both are able to compete with other diamond brands that supply our retailers because they have Canadian provenance. Ethical issues surrounding precious materials are becoming more important to consumers in the U.K., and Canadian companies that can provide a strong ethical product have a prime opportunity here.” Links of London has been in the Canadian market since 2001. “Our British heritage and design aesthetic has a natural fit with the Canadian customer,” says Robert Dundon, President, North America FF Group. “We have been fortunate over the years to have developed a very loyal client in Canada. Although we are not actively searching for new sites, there may be opportunities to open in 2013 to 2014. Links of London currently operates eight locations across Canada." Growth market

The market for jewellery and watches in the U.K. is expected to see continual growth as the economy continues to recover, with consumers becoming more spontaneous with their spending, as was seen before the recession started to bite, along with a consistent bridal diamond market. Research company Key Note forecasts that U.K. sales of jewellery and watches will continue to grow in the next five years, to around £5.32 billion ($8,500,828,000) in 2015. With or without the boost from Britain’s historic summer in the spotlight, this is a solid market for jewellery that will continue to grow and evolve—and it is the independents that are leading the way. [CJ] Sarah Carpin is the Canadian Jeweller U.K. correspondent. She will be covering the London Olympics for us.


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5/1/12 3:04:15 PM



SPARK Hiring employees is a mix of skill and intuition —here’s how some jewellers go about it by Todd Wasylyshyn


here is no school for outstanding diamond sellers. Unlike in the NHL, jewellers don’t have scouts visiting diamond colleges, looking for your next great sales clerk.

With or Without?

I polled a number of retailers to see what their opinion was on hiring people with jewellery experience. Judy Dangel of Enderby Jewellers, Enderby B.C. answers, “If they have jewellery experience, that is a bonus… I like to hire for attitude and personality.” Joanne Austen of Austen Jewellers in High River, Alberta says, “We usually hire newbies, but we like to have some sales experience.” Other jewellers have told me they prefer to hire people without jewellery experience, as those with experience tend to be “know-itall's” and have “bad habits.” Andrew Foster of Foster & Sons in Lethbridge, Alberta tells me, “Personally, I look for a positive attitude over industry-specific history.” It’s clear that most of us are looking outside of the industry for new talent. Personality plus

The best applicants are the ones who make your intuition scream, “Personalityplus! Hire right now!” Sadly, they don’t always materialize when you need them. The smaller the market you operate in, the fewer your choices; therefore, it often becomes an intense effort to advertise, interview and select the most suitable person.


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Do you have a

Rembrandt Charm Department? • Show Silver. Sell Gold.

Sterling silver serves as samples for special order gold charms.

• Sterling silver offers great price points and attracts repeat charm collectors. • Our displays fit all spaces and budgets.

“Rembrandt has a wonderful charm program. The counter top displays are easy for viewing and making selections. Stock re-orders as well as special orders from the catalog come in quickly which makes our customers very happy.”

For details, write #131 on Free Info Page, page 136

Diane DeScenza Herth, VP of Merchandising DeScenza Diamonds, Boston, MA

Visit us at JCK Booth #B5112 for more information on our business-building charm program. .com Thousands of charms in silver and gold.

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What’s your favourite media for seeking staff? Newspaper? Craigslist? Workopolis? Jobshop? Some, like Justin Pelant from Nelson, B.C. “…have hired always through word of mouth for honest people.”

Assessments can be revealing Hiring a new employee is like gambling—you can win big, or you can lose. Sometimes it’s wise to call in a professional who can help you apply scientific rigour to what is often a guessing game. Professionals such as Bill Robinson

“Our best applicants have been customers. Because they like jewellery,” says Joanne Austen.

offer employee assessment services that can reveal more than you’d ever be

Social media

“Often, people are hired because they have the right credentials, and then

With social media growing in popularity, how about posting help wanted messages to your friends, followers or fans? If you’ve developed an effective social network, you can use a tailored message on Facebook, Twitter or LinkedIn.

fired because of a bad fit,” Robinson says. His company, Bill Robinson

Try something like: “You know better than anyone what kind of person you want serving you at our store. We’ll give you a $250 credit if you refer a successful applicant to us.” It’s less than 144 characters, so it fits into a Tweet, and it’s a headline that needs no further clarification. I also hear that giving a small gift certificate to a known client often results in a sale of two to three to 10 times that amount.

Assessments are designed to answer three questions:

Employment agencies

2. How will the person do the job—do they fit into what the job

Susan Cartwright-Coates, President, DiGem, has had enough of using Craigslist, window signs, business cards and posters to attract new staff. Last year, she worked with an employment agency that spent more than two hours discussing DiGem’s business and its staffing needs. In the end, they agreed that she needed two full-time sales staff, along with a part-time personal assistant. How did it turn out?

entails, and is the job good for them? Robinson says this aspect of

able to figure out just from a one-hour interview.

& Associates (“a strategic partner of Profiles International”), administers psychometric assessments to job candidates, which “help you find out if the person fits the job.”

1. Can the person do the job—do they have the cognitive skills to absorb information and work with it? As Robinson explains it, senior executives tend to have high cognitive skills: “There’s no need to repeat anything you say—they get it right away.” Other people have low cognitive skills, and “they need to have things repeated.”

the assessment measures attributes such as energy level and ability to multitask: “For example, a salesperson has to do a lot to get things done, they’re juggling a lot of balls in the air, so they have to be high-energy. A low-energy person is more task-oriented, and will check everything to make sure they’ve covered it. There is no right or wrong—some jobs require you to be one way or the other.”

She recalls: “Just a couple of weeks later, I had in my employment one threequarter, time-seasoned jewellery salesperson; one full-time, high-energy, motivated salesperson with six months’ experience; and a two-day-a-week assistant. Fast forward one year, and all three are still happily with me… I would use an employment agency every time now.”

Where employers might run into trouble is if they need a low-energy person and hire a high-energy person. “Some people will just hire someone and say ‘here’s the job and here are the tools to do it,’” Robinson points out. “Others will say ‘we’ll give you a plan, and then we’ll discuss it and go over it’—a highly independent person would not fit into this.”

Don’t forget to ask sales reps, who sometimes catch wind of good people moving into your area.

3. Is this the job the person wants to do? “Many people are doing jobs they don’t want to,” Robinson says. “However, if people are happy at their job,

Improving our industry

Now, I know you want new hires to either make you money or take on tasks so that others will make you more money. However, look at the hiring process from the other side of the coin. Had a small retailer in Heritage Mall, Edmonton not given me a chance, I might never have discovered this career path that I love so much. I’m continually amazed that I get to help people celebrate momentous occasions with the most beautiful and durable of gifts. Never forget that you’re bestowing this extraordinary privilege on new staff. You may start out by hiring a sales clerk, but they might end-up building a fulfilling jewellery career. By hiring, training and retaining excellent people, you’re not only improving your business— you’re improving our industry as well. [CJ]


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they’ll be more successful.” First impressions? So, should you rely on your first impression of a job candidate? “The problem is that you’re only seeing what the person wants you to see,” Robinson declares. “It’s like the tip of the iceberg—you’re only seeing 17 per cent of the person… An assessment will give you the other 83 per cent of that iceberg.” The hiring process, Robinson says, consists of three elements: “Checking references, doing an interview and assessments. If you find a great candidate, we’ll confirm that or show you what the interview process hasn’t shown. Assessments help you make the decision to hire.” – Lynne Shuttleworth

4/27/12 12:10:50 PM

For details, write #132 on Free Info Page, page 136 CJJUN2012_Mirage_Creations_Nova_8956_FP.indd 19

Finished Jewellery & Loose Diamonds Nova Diamonds Inc. 221 Victoria St. Lower Level Toronto, Ontario, Canada, M5B 1V4 Phone: 416-868-6682 Fax: 416-868-0666

4/27/12 12:13:37 PM


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2012-04-26 2:04 PM 4/27/12 11:36:39 AM

For details, write #135 on Free Info Page, page 136 CJJUN2012_Lotus_Kameleon_8724_DPS.indd 19

4/27/12 12:14:56 PM

For details, write #135 on Free Info Page, page 136

Canadian Distributor

Visit us at the following tradeshows to discover what makes Kameleon Jewelry one of the Top Ten Retail Jewelry Trends of 2011 CGTA Congress Centre Booth 7529 August 12th - 15th

Alberta Gift Show Northlands, Edmonton Booth 4417 August 19th - 22nd

JCK Toronto Toronto Convention Ctr. Booth 528 August 12th - 14th

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4/27/12 12:15:06 PM

companyprofile | ImperialColorDiamonds

Passion for

COLOUR Recessionary demand translates into boon for Imperial Color Diamonds By Joanne M. Brathwaite


orth America may well be in the throes of a recession; just don’t tell that to jeweller Hossein Bioukzadeh. Every day, the president and owner of Imperial Color Diamonds (formerly Imperial Gems & Jewels) fields and fulfills numerous requests from clients hoping to procure some of the rarest gems in the world: fancy coloured diamonds.

Farah and Hossein Bioukzadeh

Although the bulk of his deals are with retailers and wholesalers, a good portion of his daily inquiries also come from emerging market investors seeking larger stones as “safe” assets or portable currency alternatives. Overseas interest in pieces from individuals who "understand the value of the goods, and who know the market" has translated into steady business for Imperial Color Diamonds over the last five years. “Business has been very good,” Bioukzadeh asserts, citing an increasing demand for low-risk, high-yield investments during an uncertain economy as the primary reason for what he calls his "booming time.” His own understanding of the business and its trends are intrinsic; Bioukzadeh’s father is a jeweller in his native Iran. Despite the fact that the one-time lawyer’s knowledge of the trade is seemingly in his blood, it wasn’t until he moved to Canada in 1998 that he decided to swap his lawyer’s robes for a gemmologist’s loupe. “I studied law back home, but my background is in the jewellery business… my father’s been doing this for 55 years,” he says. “Since I was already familiar with the industry, and had worked in sales previously, it made sense once I got here to go in a different direction—my father’s direction.” This desire to continue in the family tradition led Bioukzadeh to attend George Brown College’s gemmology program, where he specialized in gemmology and jewellery design. After graduating in 2001, Bioukzadeh decided to start his own company: Imperial Gems & Jewels. Birth of boom times

Bioukzadeh recalls a time when business didn’t so much roar as whisper.


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Ten years ago, his company’s primary import and distribution was loose precious stones, fine jewellery and extravagant coloured-stone pieces. Over the years, dwindling availability for high-quality gems was the catalyst that prompted a switch in the business’ focus. “Sourcing gemstones over the last few years became increasingly difficult,” he says. “I wasted a lot of time overseas—at times, months—searching for quality and a certain standard, and in the end, I just couldn't find enough suitable merchandise to supply my business.” In 2004, when Jennifer Lopez flaunted her six-carat, fancy pink diamond engagement ring to the media, trend-savvy business owners such as Bioukzadeh rushed to address the resulting surge in public awareness and demand. He retooled his market focus, and Imperial Color Diamonds was born. Since then, almost all of the company’s business has been dedicated to specializing in rare diamonds.

5/3/12 4:37:05 PM

cost in the market, DigitalWax 008J is the perfect choice for small companies with low volume production needs. DigitalWax 008J can build 2 to 10 models per day (24 hours), it depends on their size and complexity. The three-dimensional models are built by a special laser which hardens a proprietary photo-curable resin. The laser is specifically developed to guarantee high performance and long life. Thanks to the layer-by-layer forming technology, there are no limits to the geometric complexity of the models: undercuts, cavities, thin surfaces and complex shapes can be created without any difficulty. The BluEdge laser head allows the use of a new generation, high performance UV photo-curable resins for direct casting and rubber mould applications.

Available models:

For details, write #136 on Free Info Page, page 136

Need a sample? e-mail us your drawing on a STL file and we will build it for you. You are also welcome to visit our showroom in Montreal to see how to process the files and run the machine.

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4/27/12 12:18:17 PM

companyprofile | ImperialColorDiamonds

5.72ct fancy yellow, pear-shaped diamond earrings

1.02ct fancy intense pink Argyle ring


Imperial Color Diamonds’ offerings include loose stones sourced manufacturing around the globe, and Bioukzadeh proudly states that the manufacture and design of all the company’s finished metal goods originate in Canada. “We don't get our work done overseas in the desire to save money. We go for quality, so we spend the extra money at home. I have the right people, right here: our designers, our team, our manufacturers are creating the goods for me locally.” He admits that Imperial Color Diamonds does not sell Canadian diamonds. This is not for lack of excellence, however. “We just don’t see as much of the kinds of colour we are looking for in the Canadian market,” he explains. “We really only do a little of the white diamond business, anyway—and only the bigger sizes—three carats plus. Once in a while, I invest in the white goods, but 99 per cent of my goods are coloured diamonds, mainly yellow, pink and blue.”

Even with this dedication to satisfying his every client, one or two appeals have left him stymied, though he isn’t giving up: “I had a call for a vivid blue, internally flawless, three-carat stone…I’m still looking!” Appetite for colour

Bioukzadeh thinks determination, coupled with an appetite for colour diamonds, is his biggest inspiration for success. He is unabashedly enthusiastic when talking about which colours are his favourites. “I love yellows. I love the pinks… Actually, I love every colour. The colours are my passion. You know, when I see the white goods, I don't get motivated. But when I see any beautiful coloured diamonds, they get me motivated. What can I say? I dream in coloured diamonds.” [CJ]

1.01ct fancy intense purplish-pink ring

Flights of fancy

In spite of their rarity, Bioukzadeh feels that continued interest in fancy diamonds fuels his business, driving him to focus his efforts on filling this unique niche. Unparalleled quality and unmatched price are two goals he strives toward with every transaction. “I try to buy everything at excellent prices; that’s my main philosophy and continued focus,” he says. “I always try my absolute best, and I work very hard at that part. Selling is not actually that difficult…if your price point is right, you can sell to anybody.”


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5/4/12 9:41:21 AM


Fine Jewellery Event


Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

19 - 23 September 2012 AsiaWorld-Expo • Hong Kong

Diamonds, Gemstones, Pearls, Equipment and Packaging

21 - 25 September 2012

Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre

For details, write #137 on Free Info Page, page 136

Fine Finished Jewellery

UBM Asia Ltd 17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel :(852) 2585 6179 / 2516 1677 Fax :(852) 3749 7319 Email

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Western Canadian Jewellery Expo Trade show mixology: blending the reliably refined with the neoclassical By Lilie Ford


nasmuch as change can be both refreshing and inevitable, any business that embraces the realities of ever-changing markets and methods will see opportunities to increase their reach and improve their base. And the jewellery industry is no different in this regard. Some might even say that change hits the jewellery industry harder than most, due to its unique threepronged nature. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the regulated business side, carried out in the manner dictated by government, following all of the established rules and guidelines. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the manufacturing and processing side, where products must be made or procured cost effectively to allow for a profitable return. And, most important, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the creative and artistic side where the jewellery, beyond simple appeal, must provide that expressive continuum between the designer and the wearer, and reflect their dual inspirations.

All three of these industry facets are susceptible to regulatory change, global economic forces, and consumer market response. And it is the business models that understand the shifting nuances around them that will thrive. Attendees to the Western Canadian Jewellery Expo (WCJE) can again access those exhibitors who prosper and have been constant and loyal supporters of the show, companies whose quality of products and services are consistent and distinguished. As far as change within the WCJE goes, the 2012 event will showcase the leading edge of the jewellery evolution. Attendees can expect to see a new floor layout with a feature pavilion for major sponsor ELLE Jewelry, a new dedicated design centre for artisans and many of the new stars of the jewellery world seeking to establish themselves in western Canada with original ideas presented in innovative ways. Lilie Ford is Event Director, Western Canadian Jewellery Expo

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5/3/12 4:37:38 PM

hibitors ex year his New t


Here are some of the new and exciting exhibitors you can look forward to seeing at the 2012 WCJE: AFFORDABLE CREATIONS


Booth # 324

Booth # 1024, 1026

Booth # 120






Booth # 108



Booth # 422 TORONTO, ON



With the RingFinder App, our bridal collection is your gateway to the iTunes generation. The App offers your store more ways to connect with more customers than any other bridal collection has done before. Download RingFinder for free on the Apple Store. All pieces are stocked in our Toronto office to ensure speedy delivery.



Booth # 919 MONTREAL, QC


Booth # 415

Booth # 825, 924




A leading player in the global diamond industry, the Dalumi Group has earned a reputation as one of the diamond world’s most trusted names. Established in 1960 by Asher Dalumi and run today by the second generation, Dalumi Group is an international company with a worldwide distribution operation. The Group has manufacturing facilities in Botswana, Israel, China and India, offices around the globe and some 700 professional employees worldwide. Dalumi is a DTC Sightholder since 1993, a DTC Botswana Sightholder since 2007, a Term Client of BHP Billiton, and the recipient of Israel’s “Outstanding Exporter” award in 1995 and in 2008.




Booth # 513, 515

Booth # 523


Toronto, ON

Chamilia is one of the fastest growing personalized jewellery accessory brands in the world, creating extraordinary innovative jewellery for women with an eye for fashion. Chamilia’s collections of beads, bracelets, necklaces and earrings are created with the finest materials, including 14k gold, .925 silver, Swarovski® Elements, Italian Murano glass, and include the exclusive Disney® collection. The Miss Chamilia Collection is designed exclusively for children.





Booth #3

Featuring sterling silver jewellery brands proven to sell through. Kameleon Jewellery – the hottest line in interchangeability; Mirage collection—sterling silver with gold accents; Ice925 Collection—original designs with genuine Canadian diamonds. Don’t forget about our large selection of Celtic designs and classic pieces that never go out of style.

Albuquerque, NM

KRD GROUP Booth # 110, 112 KELOWNA, BC

LASHBROOK Booth # 315

Midore/Bering Time



Booth 313, 412

Booth # 712, 714

Lashbrook is a premier designer, manufacturer and distributor of performance and precious metal wedding bands. But we aren’t limited to rings solely for matrimony—if you have a reason, we have the ring. We make 92 per cent of our 30,000 styles in the U.S. With over 16 different metals…and counting, we can create your dream ring. And if you don’t have a dream ring, start dreaming. We’ll be ready!




GM Gold & Diamonds Booths 609, 708 HOUSTON, TX


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With the introduction of the Danish watch brand BERING, a new era has begun. Bering has become the first-ever brand to specialize in the production of flat, high-tech ceramic watches with scratch-resistant sapphire crystals, achieving unparalleled success worldwide. Bering is able, like no other, to uniquely combine minimalist Danish design and maximum strength material, thus creating a matchless overall concept from classic watch designs to exclusive retail packaging at fantastic value for the money.

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21 state jeweler associations Jewelry Information Center

Jewelers Security Alliance

Canadian Jewellers Association

Manufacturing Jewelers & Suppliers of America

Jewelers Vigilance Committee

Jewelers for Children

American Gem Society Jewelers of America

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Jewelry Association

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Society of North American Goldsmiths

Jewellers Vigilance Canada

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Starting at $99 retail with a sapphire crystal, high-grade stainless steel, and 5 ATM water resistance, it is easy to understand why Bering has become one of the hottest and best-selling watches in more than 2,000 stores in Europe already. Available exclusively at: Midore Inc.


At Purely Pearls, we have a passion for pearls. We are inspired by the unique characteristics and subtle irregularities of the pearl to create contemporary pearl jewellery to complement any woman for any occasion. Purely Pearls offers jewellery featuring genuine cultured pearls like you have never seen before.


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One of a kind, handmade and private label gemstone and precious metal jewelry by Cara Cotter. Her designs are classic with a modern twist, and while the aesthetic remains constant, the pieces continually change, based on the gemstones and precious metals she finds.

Representing CANADIAN ROCKS Canadian Diamond Jewellery, PLATINA 4 alternative metal jewellery, MALO BANDS men’s wedding bands, MARDINI high-end men’s wedding bands, and ANAYA JEWELLERY COLLECTION semimount diamond jewellery.

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Brand New, Tried & True Reaching out across North America, the Western Canadian Jewellery Expo has gathered together a collection of amazing manufacturers and designers who are making their Western Canadian debut featuring innovative and creative products.

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We're excited to welcome them along with those leading manufacturers who have chosen the Western Canadian Jewellery Expo over and over as their Premier Canadian Jewellery Event. Join us this year August 17th to 19th to reacquaint and see what's new!!

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Duncan Parker President 2012-2014 Duncan Parker, JVC

New JVC president takes the helm with the aim of increasing participation and networking

It is not often that Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC) is described so well and with such eloquence as at our annual meeting this February by JVC’s new President, Duncan Parker. For many of us, Duncan has been a friend and a leader of our industry. We have often read his words on a variety of topics in this publication. Some of us have had the privilege of working closely with him on committees.There are also some of us who have admired his steadfast commitment to ethics and to serving this industry. The lucky ones among us have reveled in his humour and marveled at his ability to articulate the English language like no one else. Here are some of his words. — Phyllis Richard, JVC Executive Director

Thank you for allowing me the opportunity to attempt to take this chair. It will not be possible to fill the place of Janet Nimmons, Beth Saunders, Andrea Hopson and all of their predecessors, but I will do my best to follow the example set in past years.

These ideas may seem loft y to some, but the dedicated people who are currently involved with JVC, and those who have been involved in the past, are believers that these aims are not loft y at all, but are practical, necessary and achievable.

Jewellers Vigilance Canada is an important presence in Canada. The jewellery industry is a better place for the work that JVC has done. The organization was established with the intent to “advance ethical practices, establish a level playing field for the Canadian jewellery and watch industry and provide crime prevention education for the trade… to keep the industry vibrant, strong and a safe place to do business while ensuring consumer confidence.”

I have been involved with JVC since some time in the previous century, and sat on the committee constructing the fi rst edition of the jewellery appraisal guidelines. Since then, I have been hooked; I try to be involved whenever I can. Like pretty much everyone on the board and on the executive, I make my living in the industry that JVC supports, and feel that it is important to give back what I can.


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5/3/12 4:39:53 PM

Camera. Clarity. Criminal. Caught. The Four C’s of the JVC Crime Alert.

JVC Crime Alerts provide timely information and photographs on jewellery crime in Canada that may help protect your store from fraud, diamond thefts or diamond switches. This valuable service is part of the JVC Crime Prevention Package, which also includes:

For details, write #140 on Free Info Page, page 136

• Crime Prevention Manual (CD format) • Access to JVC’s Security Library

• Crime Prevention Bulletins on effective security procedures • Security Supplier directory

Visit or call 1-800-636-9536 to sign up for your 2012 JVC Crime Prevention Package.

Jewellers Vigilance Canada An independent, non-profit association to advance ethical practices within the Canadian jewellery industry. CRIME PREVENTION • RESOURCE PROTECTION • SAFETY AWARENESS

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In partnership with

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Our organization must continue to serve its mandate, and in the coming years we need to extend our support base, finding greater numbers of ongoing supporters.

Our organization must continue to serve its mandate, and in the coming years we need to extend our support base, finding greater numbers of ongoing supporters, more participants in the golf tournament and the ball, and perhaps most importantly, a broader subscription base to the crime prevention programme.

I think we all know that JVC operates on a wing and a prayer. I guess a wellworded prayer can produce some results. A look at the bank account certainly proves that JVC is a not-forprofit organization. We have definitely had tight finances over the years, and this past year has been no exception. JVC relies on financial support in the form of annual donations from supporters, from two fundraiser events, the golf tournament and the jewellers ball. When things get difficult in our industry, support can slip.

financial health is certainly the crime prevention programme. JVC operates day to day with the crack team of Phyllis Richard and Carla Adams, who, between them, keep all the rest of the executive, board, supporters, donors, and advisors up to date with everything that is going on and that needs to be done. Plus, they also conduct the necessary dayto-day work with the complaints, queries and adjudication on issues raised among members of the trade and also members of the public.

JVC is non-judgmental, and serves as a disinterested third party, working in confidence with the public and the trade, regardless of those involved, and regardless of whether the complaint is from or about a supporter or an unknown party. I hear regularly from members of the public who have had the benefit of guidance of some kind from JVC.

The crime prevention programme is very important to the trade. It can help every person in our industry, and every individual, and every business. Wholesale, retail, manufacturing, distribution, service, police, or insurance can all benefit from this very important JVC programme. We really need to focus on creating broader awareness of the clear benefits of membership.

It is necessary to ensure that both the public and the trade are made aware of the good work done by JVC. Widespread awareness of this important organization will help to create an understanding of the benefits of having JVC around and of supporting its work.

Revenue generation is a higher priority than cost savings, if only for the reason that there are very few more cost savings to be made, with the possible exception of the ball venue. The creation of new sponsorship opportunities at JVC events can help, but an important revenue source to ensure JVC’s

Jewellers Vigilance Canada is an inspiration, and our industry is lucky to have it. I have always felt honoured to be able to be of some small service to JVC, and to be able to sit at the table with such a generous group of companies, organizations and people. [CJ]

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2012 Categories and Entry Form

2012 CATEGORIES 1. DIAMONDS & COLOURED DIAMONDS: Any piece of jewellery that puts diamonds or coloured diamonds in the spotlight. Each design must have a minimum diamond content of 1 carat. 2. CANADIAN DIAMONDS: Show Canadian diamonds in a magnificent jewellery design. Entries must feature Canadian diamonds and be accompanied by certification attesting to each diamondâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Canadian origin. Smaller accent stones need not be Canadian. 3. PEARLS: Let natural pearls dominate as the central design element. Other gemstones and diamonds can be used as accent stones. 4. PLATINUM: The overall metal content of these designs must be a minimum of 75 percent platinum, but any combination of gemstones and gold may be used. 5. COLOURED GEMSTONES: Let your creativity run wild in this category which features coloured gemstones as the central design element. Creativity will be a key judging criterion. 6. RAISING STAR AWARD: Open to jewellery design students and recent graduates of a Canadian jewellery design program, emerging designers are encouraged to express their creativity with a design using materials of their choosing. To find out how you can become a sponsor of this prestigious event, please contact Olivier Felicio at or call 416-203-7900 X 6107. For complete details on how to enter your design, contact Norma Meneguzzi Spall at or 416-686-9110 or Henry Fonseca at or 416-203-7900, xt 6127. Entry deadline is July 7th, 2012, 5 p.m.

*Enter online as well at

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Describe the piece, including metal used and karat value, gemstone types, weights, cuts and colour. (Complex designs should be accompanied by technical details.)




$30 ( CHEQUE


I understand the entry rules and regulations and I abide by those terms. SIGNATURE

SEND ENTRY FORM TO: Excellence in Design, Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON M4W 3B8.

RULES, REGULATIONS AND INFORMATION • Jewellery must have been designed and made in Canada.

• Jewellery must incorporate precious metals and must adhere to the criteria set out in each category.

• All gemstones must be natural. Synthetics are not permitted. Students may substitute CZ for diamonds.

• One submission per designer, per category.

• Contestant assumes all liability for designs and jewellery submitted. Although we will take reasonable precautions

• Entry deadline is July 7th, 2012, 5 p.m.

• Winning entries and all information provided about the entries may be used for promotional purposes. Slides,

renderings and other reproductions of the designs, as well as press releases, will also be used for this purpose.

• Entries will be judged on the basis of originality, creativity, beauty, wearability and quality of workmanship. Consideration will also be given to marketability.

while the jewellery is in our possession, Canadian Jeweller cannot be responsible for insuring the jewellery.

• Contestants agree to hold Canadian Jeweller, Rive Gauche Media Inc., and its employees and representatives, etc.,


• Judging of all entries will take place in July 2012. Up to three finalists in each category will be selected. These

We suggest you extend your own policy to cover your piece or pieces for loss, theft or damage for the duration of the

• In each category, three finalists will be selected. Judges will then choose an overall winner in each category. • To enter, submit finished jewellery, an entry form and a $30 fee for each package.

• Entries will be returned by a courier at the expense of the designer. To arrange for the return, please contact a Canadian Jeweller representative at (416) 203-7900.

harmless from any and all claims, litigation and other legal proceedings.

finalists will be displayed at JCK Toronto from August 12 to 14, 2012 for a final judging process. Entries not selected as a finalist will be returned to the designer in August 2012.

• Overall winners in each category will be formally announced at the 2012 Jeweller’s Ball to be held in Toronto in November 2012.


2011 Annual CRIME REPORT part two

JEWELLERS VIGILANCE CANADA Report Prepared by Janet Lamont, JVC Crime Analyst (This is Part Two of JVCs annual crime report. Part One ran in the April/May issue of Canadian Jeweller.) PART TWO: OFF-PREMISES CRIMES

This section provides statistical data regarding criminal attacks occurring away from the victim’s business base of operations. For example: attacks against travelling jewellery salespersons, trunk and remount show operators, couriers, firms exhibiting at jewellery shows, retailers attacked away from their places of business, including at home, and other industry members travelling with jewellery.

to knives, appears to be an effort to avoid more severe sentencing guidelines for the use of a gun during the commission of a crime.

I. DOLLAR LOSSES – $4.6 MILLION Dollar losses increased by approximately 239 per cent during 2011, and the number of criminal events decreased approximately 71 per cent. This report compared eight cases from 2011 to five cases used in the statistical review from 2010.

C. Off-Premises Robbery Losses Note: Off-premises robbery dollar losses are up over 2010 and down over 2009.

II. PERCENTAGE OF TOTAL OFF-PREMISES CASES BY CRIME CATEGORY The crime category of robbery has accounted for the majority of off-premises attacks since 2010. Category Robbery











III. ROBBERY OF TRAVELLING SALESPERSONS A. Violence In 33 per cent of the off-premises robberies reported to JVC in 2011, a victim was physically assaulted, usually in response to some level of resistance on their part. A gun was not displayed in any of these incidents. The violence was committed by assault or displaying of a knife. JSA in the U.S. suggests the change in the South American theft gangs’ weapon of choice, from guns


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B. Trunk/Remount Shows In 2011, JVC received no confirmed reports regarding Trunk/Remount show losses.

IV. Break and Enters The were no off-premises break and enters (hotel rooms etc.) reported to JVC in 2011 2009 $2,950,000





V. THEFT: $2 MILLION IN LOSSES In 2011, off-premises theft dollar losses totaled $2 million, compared to $910,000 in losses for 2010. Unattended losses account for about 62 percent of the total number of off-premises attacks. Unless expensive insurance riders have been purchased, this type of loss is not generally covered by insurance. The largest unattended loss reported to JVC in 2011 was for $2 million. It occurred in Richmond, British Columbia. The victim’s line was left unattended in her car. The victim suspected she was followed from a trunk show. VI. MOST FREQUENT CRIME SCENES The most common technique used by thieves to identify travelling jewellery salespersons is to stake out a building where a large number of jewellery vendors are located, such as 21 Dundas Square in Toronto, and to follow them to various retail outlets before striking.

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Parking lots of malls and hotels continue to be the most common place for an attack on a travelling salesperson. In one case, a jeweller and female associate were roughed up in a parking lot and the line was stolen. In another, the jeweller was getting into his car, and he was roughed up by four men, and his line stolen.

JVC Crime alerts and good news bulletins by month 2010 JVC Crime Alert

VII. SUSPECT PROFILE In the great majority of off-premises losses reported to JVC, in which suspect descriptions were provided or arrests made, male and female suspects were found to be residing in Canada illegally. Local law enforcement agencies have confirmed the existence of organized criminal groups identified as South American Theft/Robbery Gangs (SATG), which concentrate their criminal activities against the jewellery industry. VIII. MOST ACTIVE PROVINCES Ontario and British Columbia continue to be the most active provinces. IX. MOST ACTIVE METROPOLITAN AREAS FOR OFF-PREMISES LOSSES Toronto, Vancouver and Calgary are the most active metropolitan areas. Note: Although the jewellery industry has experienced a significant increase in attacks on travelling jewellery salespeople, the police are starting to make more arrests, especially in Ontario. Two important factors to consider regarding these arrests is the dedicated interest of law enforcement, particularly the York Regional Police, and the fact that the police are starting to lay charges of “Being a member of an organized crime gang,” which results in greater sentences. CANADIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY CRIME LOSSES 2008 THROUGH 2011 Month Jan






































































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Good News

JVC Crime

Good News































1 0



















1 0















JVC Sources of case information

• • • • •

JVC membership (manufacturing, wholesale and retail doors) JVC law enforcement information sharing network Local jewellers’ crime prevention networks Non-member crime victims Media, trade publications, general public, online sources

The statistics provided in this report are based solely on information obtained by JVC. Only information that in the opinion of JVC is credible, and can be verified in some way as to its accuracy, is used in the compilation of these statistics. The loss values reported should be considered conservative, and may be greater than indicated. It is not possible for JVC to obtain information on every jewellery industry crime that occurs in Canada, for several reasons, not limited to the fact that many go unreported, even to the police. Canada still lags far behind the U.S. in networking and sharing of information. However, the JVC database is the largest and most accurate in existence in Canada, and growing. There are many jewellery business and law enforcement agencies that have not bought into the idea that networking and crime prevention is everyone’s business. [CJ]

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Canadian Jeweller wants to know How’s your store doing?


To help Canadian Jeweller provide you with editorial that’s completely relevant to your business, we’d like to get some insight from you about how your store is doing. The jewellery industry in Canada is stronger when we work together and share information. That’s why it’s important for us to understand your needs and interests. Every issue of Canadian Jeweller, we’ll be surveying you to discover information that will enable us to provide you with the most topical, useful articles. We’ll publish all the results in the February 2013 issue.

You could win!

For every survey, the first 200 people to answer the questions will be entered into a draw for amazing prizes.

This month’s prize

• $3,000 in Bfly product, which can be retailed for $6,000! Other fabulous prizes we’ll be awarding throughout 2012 include spa trips for 2, dinners for 2 and other treats! 1. How were sales at your store from 2010 to 2011? Up by 5% Up by 15% Up by 20% Up more than 20% Flat Down 5% Down 15% Down 20% Down more than 20% 4. What price point items have increased? Less than $500 $500 to $1,500 $1,500 to $3,000 $3,000 to $5,000 $5,000 to $10,000 More than $10,000

2. How were sales at your store in Nov./ Dec. 2011 compared with Nov./Dec. 2010? Up by 5% Up by 15% Up by 20% Up more than 20% Flat Down 5% Down 15% Down 20% Down more than 20%

3. In Nov./Dec. 2011, how were your price points compared to Nov./Dec 2010? Up by 5% Up by 15% Up by 20% Up more than 20% Flat Down 5% Down 15% Down 20% Down more than 20%

5. Which of the following have impacted your margins? Online stores Competitor(s)’ store(s) Secondhand market

6. List your top suppliers in the following categories: Watches:

Fill in the following and mail or fax back: Name (please print):


Address: Store name:




Postal code: Necklaces:

Telephone: Fax:


Email: Number of stores:

Engagement rings:


Store Size: Under 1,000 sq. ft 3,000-5,000 sq. ft

1,000-3,000 sq. ft over 5,000 sq. ft

Mailing Address: Children’s jewellery:

Canadian Jeweller magazine 60 Bloor St., West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON., M4W 3B8

Fax Number: 416-703-6392

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what’son May 31-Jun. 3 Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show Paris Hotel Las Vegas, NV Tel: 239-732-6642 Fax: 239-732-6652


May 16-18 IJK International Jewellery Fair Kobe Kobe International Exhibition Hall Kobe, Japan Tel: 81-3-3349-8503 Fax: 81-3-3345-7929 May 17-20 International Jewelry Fair/ General Merchandise Show New Orleans Morial Convention Center New Orleans, LA Tel: 630-241-9865 Fax: 630-241-9870 Attendees: 20,000 Exhibitors: 700 May 19-23 VicenzaOro Vicenza Fair Vicenza, Italy Tel: 39-0444-969-111 Fax: 39-0444-969-000

Jun. 1-3 NICHE: The Show Planet Hollywood Resort & Casino Las Vegas, NV Tel: 410-889-2933 Jun. 1-4 JCK Las Vegas Mandalay Bay Hotel & Convention Center Las Vegas, NV Tel: 1-800-257-3626 Exhibitors: 2,500

May 28-31 GLDA Las Vegas Gem & Jewelry Show Mirage Event Center Las Vegas, NV Tel: 301-294-1640 Fax: 301-294-0034 Exhibitors: 400 May 29-Jun. 4 LUXURY (May 29-31, Invitation-only) Four Seasons/THE Hotel/ Mandalay Bay Las Vegas, NV Tel: 203-840-5521/973-263-4610 Fax: 203-840-9521/973-263-4977; CJ J u n e / J u ly 2 0 1 2 |

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May 31-Jun.4 AGTA GemFair at the JCK Las Vegas Show The Mandalay Bay Hotel & Convention Center Las Vegas, NV Tel: 800-972-1162 Attendees: 20,000 Exhibitors: 220


May 28-29 International Watch & Jewelry Guild Tropicana Las Vegas Las Vegas, NV Tel: 713-783-8188 Fax: 281-589-8987


May 31-Jun.4 Swiss Watch – By Appointment Only Four Seasons/Mandalay Bay/ The Hotel Las Vegas, NV Tel: 203-840-4800 Fax: 203-840-5805

Jun. 21-24 Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair – June Edition Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre Hong Kong Tel: 852-2516-2158/852-2585-6179 Fax: 852-3749-7344/852-3749-7542

Jun. 21-24 June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Far Hong Kong Convention And Exhibition Centre Hong Kong Tel: 852-2516-1677 Fax: 852-3749-7319


Jun. 22-24 Hyderabad Jewellery, Pearl and Gem Fair Hitex Exhibition Centre Hyderbad, India Tel: 91-022-6612-2600 Fax 91-022-6612-2626/27

Aug. 11-13 Atlanta Jewelry Show Cobb Galleria Centre Atlanta, GA Tel: 800-241-0399 Fax: 404-634-4663 Exhibitors: 500


Jul. 1-3 Eclat de Mode – Bijourhca Paris – Porte de Versailles Pavillion 5 Paris, France Tel: 33-01-47-56-21-36 Fax: 33-01-47-56-24-21 Attendees: 13,000 Exhibitors: 400 Jul. 20-23 New York Antique Jewellery & Watch Show Metropolitan Pavilion New York, NY Tel: 239-732-6642 Fax: 239-352-6005 Exhibitors: 100 Jul. 23-24 International Watch & Jewellery Guild Marriott , NY Brooklyn Bridge Brooklyn, NY Tel: 713-783-8188 Fax: 281-589-8987 Jul. 30 – Aug.1 Luxury Privé The Pierre Hotel New York, NY Tel: 203-840-5521/973-263-4610 Fax: 203-840-9521/973-263-4977;

Aug. 1-4 Feninjer - Brazilian Gems & Jewellery Show Transamérica Expo Center São Paulo, Brazil Tel: 55-61-3326-3926 Fax: 55-61-3328-6721

Aug. 12-14 JCK Toronto Metro Toronto Convention Centre South Hall Toronto, ON Tel: 416-756-0303/ 416-585-8000 Aug. 12-14 Mode Accessories Show Doubletree by Hilton Toronto Airport Hotel Toronto, ON Tel: 416-510-0114 Fax: 416-510-0165 Aug. 17-19 Western Canadian Jewellery Expo Shaw Conference Centre Edmonton, AB Tel: 780-467-9549 Fax: 780-464-3349 Aug. 26-28 Expo Prestige Montreal Convention Centre Montreal, QC Tel: 514-485-3333 Fax: 450-649-8984 Aug. 28-30 Japan Jewellery Fair Tokyo Big Sight Exhibition Center Tokyo, Japan Tel: 81-3-5296-1020 Fax: 81-3-5296-1018

4/27/12 10:34:31 AM

showcase A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail

We send customers to you! million Over Canadian consumers


have been reached by Rembrandt Charms’ national branding campaign.

Serving retail jewelers for over 40 years!

Contact: Stephen Cooper 416.293.3495 or 800.387.5238

.com Nuco Products 11 Progress Ave., Unit 17 • Scarborough, ON M1P 4S7 416.293.3495 • 800.387.5238 • 24/7 fax 416.293.1227 Phone: 1.866.682.6823

Email: Web:


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showcase A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail

pure beauty has a name...

Exclusively available in Canada through


1-800-663-1458 Online inventory All NORDIC FIRE Diamonds are GIA Certified for accurate grading.


GROUP Proudly and Exclusively Representing the Following Brands in Canada


Since 1920

© 2011 Malo, Inc. Made in Canada.

Sir. Gabriel S. TolkowSky

Inukshuk — n , Def.: You are on the right path. G R O U P

Phone: 1.866.682.6823



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3191 Casitas Ave. Unit 115 Los Angeles, CA 90039

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Malo Inc



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Saro Creative

2012-03-13 12:05 PM



18” x 10.875”

Kohar Ayvazian 213-596-7875

4/27/12 1:37:53 PM

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Gr B Specializing in Natural Fancy Color Diamonds & Fine Jewellery!

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Single Natural Fancy Color Stones from .50 carat and up in Yellow, Pink, Blue, Green and more (All certified G.I.A) Tel: (416) 363-2111 Fax: (416) 363-1349

Toll Free: 1-866-211-7778 55 Queen Street East, Suite 1209, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5C 1R6



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A D V E R T I S I A D V E R T I S I N GFor more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please co For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail

Package 718: 10kt. Gold Earrings, set with 5x3mm a. Garnet, b. Aquamarine, c. Citrine, d. Peridot, e. Blue Topaz, f. Amethyst & g. Iolite.

Package 812: 10kt. Y/W Gold Bracelets accented by 2 Dia. & 10 Gemstones (5x3mm): a. Ruby, b. Tanzanite, c. Emerald, d. Sapphire

Best Bargains

Package 891: 10kt. Gold Rings, set with genuine Gemstone & 2 Dia.: a. Sapphire, b. Emerald, c. Ruby, d. Citrine, e. Garnet f. Opal a.


Please Visit us at the following Shows 2012

c. a.

b. a. d.




f. g.

All 7 pairs for $105 (Your choice: $22.50/pr.)



MCD Pearls








4.Las Vegas 5. New York 6. Toronto 8. Edmonton 9. Montreal 10.Miami

May 31-Jun 4/12 Jul 29-31/12 Aug 12-14/12 Aug 17-19/12 Aug 26-28/12 Oct 04-07/12

#639 #2653 #608 TBA #218 TBA

AGTA , Mandalay Bay Convention Center Jacob Javits Convention Center JCK, Metro Toronto Convention Centre - South Hall Shaw Conference Centre Palais Des Congres de Miami Beach Convention Center

a select

YOUR SATISFACTION IS GUARANTEED! Offer is valid while quantities last. ORDER NOW! Please order by package NO’S.

Your choice of any Bracelet $150 (available in other stones)

For more Products visit our website at

All 6 Rings for $480 (Your Choice $80/ea.)* • • 1-800-661-4871

(also available in other gemstones) * Show Special

21 Dundas SQ., Suite 306, Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 CANADA

Tel: 416-214-2582 Fax: 416-214-4626

2 T w

27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6 T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621 • Email:


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September/OctOber 2011 – buyerS’ Guide |

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showcase A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail

Available in any size, color & design

Contact us for a catalog Tel.: (514)332-9298 Fax.:(514)332-4158

1955 Cote de Liesse # 110 Mtl, Qc. H4N 3A8 J



N ’ S J











the largest selection






Brand new Sterling Silver 925 chain catalogue now available ava ilable

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in Canada 1-877-80-JOHNS


Jewelry Sales Reps. Wanted Canadian Distributorship and Authorized Retail Locations Available Sterling Silver Jewellery At Its Best

Wholesaler  Manufacturer  Distributor

Not Open to Public

55 queen st e #1100 toronto, on m5c1r6 tel: 1-800-693-2898


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4/27/12 1:40:18 PM

showcase A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail


• QUALITY service & attention to detail • 4 highly qualified technicians • Large inventory of parts • Access to all major supply houses • Repairs to fine watches, quartz & mechanical • Restoration of pocket watches 2741 Portage Avenue, A Avenue , Winnipeg, MB R3J 0R2, Canada TTel: (204) 789-9620 Email:

n io at c lo u w yo ne rve r d e te an o s bet Br t

marketplace A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail




Plastic Plastic Injectors Plastic Injectors

NewInjectors & Used Used New &

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Tel: (514) (514) 737-1660 737-1660 Tel: Tel: (514) 737-1660 Fax: (514) 737-9335 Fax: Fax: (514) 737-9335 (514) 737-9335


PULSE POINT POINT STUDIO STUDIO 60 60 STUDIO STUDIO 30 30 PULSE LASER WELDERS WELDERS LASER PULSE POINT STUDIO 60 STUDIO 30 New & & LASER UsedWELDERS machinery and and New Used machinery equipment for jewellers equipment for jewellers New & Used machinery and BUY -- SELL SELL TRADE BUY -- TRADE equipment for jewellers


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Toll Free: Free: (888) (888) 901-8888 901-8888 Toll Free: (888) 901-8888 Email: Email: Email:


4/27/12 2:08:24 PM

old Marketplace ad

marketplace A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail

Chipped, burnt or broken? You know they’re hidden somewhere. . . in your safe or at the back of your drawer. Our team of master diamond cutters and polishers can recut, re-polish and repair all your chipped, burnt and broken diamonds - not all damage is beyond repair. We aim for AGS Ideal® Cut (the “Triple Zero”) wherever the diamonds allow. In addition to advanced planning and precision design, light performance on each diamond is assessed using AGS Performance Grading Software®.


(306) 763 3388 (780) 905 3684


Armandor Enterprises Inc. New Tel: 416.642.0280 New Fax: 416.642.0281 New Email: New Website: New Address: 107 Church St. Unit B1 Toronto, Ontario M5C 2G5


3:11 PM

New Location in the heart of Downtown Toronto! Now Offering Casting Services




CALL TOLL FREE 1-888-475-5384 Phone: 514-845-5384 • • 55 Mont Royal W., suite 600, Montreal, Quebec, Canada, H2T 2S6

Page 1





Insurance for Customers Jewellery

Express Gold Refining has acquired the latest Assaying technology Tel: (416) 363-0584 • Fax: (416) 363-9633 • Toll Free: 1-888-401-1111 21 Dundas 401, Toronto, ONmost M5B 1B7 Email: to provide youSquare, with Suite the fastest and accurate results. We guarantee to settle your GOLD, SILVER, PLATINUM and DENTAL scrap in less than an 1 hour of receiving it. We will return to you gold bars, silver, platinum or buy your metal at the most competitive market prices.

Express Gold Refining is YOUR PRECIOUS METAL DEALER OF CHOICE. Please visit our website for the latest up-to-the minute prices in the Canadian Market.

400 - 215 Victoria St, Toronto, ON M5B 1T9 Phone: 416.363.0584 | Toll-Free: 1.888.401.1111 Email:


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133 1/29/10 3:14:36 PM 4/27/12 1:40:34 PM


Actual size 3.9" by 2.0"


LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc.

For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail

Refine-All Metals Ltd.

Refining - Assaying - Trading Precious metal specialists and refiners of gold and platinum jewellery scrap

• Cutters of Rough Diamonds Check for our refining specials and on line prices At: • Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes and • Buy Diamond and Broken Diamonds Let UsRoughs Earn Your Confidence-Call Us Before You Refine

Tel: (416)7366052 Fax:(416)7364334 Toll Free:1-800-785-2371 359 Canarctic Drive,Downsview, Ontario, M3J 2P9

Suite 805 Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7 Tel/Fax: (416) 368-6883 email:

Over 20 Years Experience

LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc.

E-mail: 21 Dundas Square,

\ Cutters of Rough Diamonds \ Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes \ Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds Ramesh Mistry Tel: 416-368-6883

21 Dundas Square, Suite 805 Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7

CAD-CAM for Jewellers





Free introductory training! Rhino Rhino Gold

Roland Solidscape


classified 1-888-688-6835 905-927-1166

3/5/10 11:51:32 AM

A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail

Bfly is looking for B.-C. and Alberta Sales Representatives. Please contact Ingrid Metta:, 888-660-3292 # 1


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5/4/12 9:26:35 AM

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For details, write #146 on Free Info Page, page 136





1. See product you want info on


2. Use this quick reference list below to find its free info number (it’s also on the ad)


24 Gold Group GIA Madani Midas Jewelry Malo Creations Stuller Creation Le Grenier Bulova Lili Diamonds TIG Group E.R.L. Diamonds Fantastic Fine Jewellery Best Bargains Chrono AG Lega Jewellery TIG Group Atlantic Engraving PAJ Elle Stuller Polanti Watches Odyssey Time B Fly Imperial Gems & Jewels Rodania Kim International Pacific Urns Sequel Canada Limigem Canada Wengers Fantastic Fine Jewellery Rembrandt Charms Nova Diamonds TIG Group

2 3 4-5 6-7 8-9 10-11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29 31 33 37 39 43 45 53 55 67 77 81 85 87 91 93 95 97 98


3. Write the number(s) on the attached free info card


4. Mail or fax us at 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392

101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 133

TIG Group Lotus Jewellery Noble Gift Packaging UBM Asia Jewellers Mutual Western Canadian Jewellery Expo JVC Bullion Mart Expo Prestige Northam Diamonds Creative Gems Ready Mounts Somal Watch Repair JCK Toronto PAJ Elle Mirage Creations Nova Diamonds Best Bargains UBM Asia Malo Creations Kameleon Jewellery Jewelers Mutual Chrono AG Kim International Imperial Gems and Jewels Stuller Creation Le Grenier Rembrandt Charms BFLY Midas Jewelry PAJ Elle Sequel Canada GIA

99 100-101 103 105 109 111 113 115 119 121 123 125 135 137 139 140 22 22 22 22 24 24 24 24 26 26 26 26 26 28 28 28 28

134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160 161 162 163 164 165 166

Info Card & Subscription To receive free information you must print clearly and fill out form completely.

 Yes! Please send me or continue to send me Canadian Jeweller magazine STEP 1


Signature: __________________________________________ Date: _______________

To qualify, check circles:

Postal Code: ______________________________________________________________

Which category best describes your business classification?  Education  Retailer  Manufacturer  Wholesaler  Importer  Designer  Services (repair, appraisals, etc.)  Other: ________________________________

Phone: ______________________________ Fax: _______________________________

Number of employees at your location  1-3  4-8  9-12  over 13

Email Address (optional): _____________________________________________________

Number of locations: ______________________

Your Name: _________________________________________ Title: ________________ Company Name: ___________________________________________________________ Address: _________________________________________________________________ City: ________________________________ Province: ___________________________


5. Receive free info direct from as many advertisers as you like


write #


on any product advertised in this issue

 No, don’t send Selling area of your store  under 1,000 sq.ft.  1,001 - 3,000 sq.ft.  3,001 - 5,000 sq.ft.  over 5,000 sq.ft. Approximate annual sales volume  under $500,000  $500,000 - $1 million  $1 million - $5 million  $5 million - $10 million  $10 million - $20 million  over $20 million Categories you personally manage  Retailer  Designer  Gemologist  Supplier  Manufacturer  Other _________________________________

Reserved exclusively for retailers





Fax Now to: 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392 | or Mail card today to: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8 136

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5/4/12 9:46:46 AM


JEWELLERS For details, write #147 on Free Info Page, page 136



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4/27/12 1:40:54 PM


La vie en rose Jaeger-LeCoultre knows how to seduce a woman. La Rose Blanche is one

of the watchmaker’s newest timepieces made exclusively for the lady with an eye for true beauty and the style of a goddess. As part of the Haute Joaillerie line, this stunning conception is powered by the impressive mechanical manufacture JLC Calibre 846, and boasts a total of 310 mesmerizing sapphires and 900 diamonds. No wonder a woman’s beauty is often compared to that of a flower—there isn’t much discrepancy between these two divine creations. Retails at US $393,000. – Irina Lytchak


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5/4/12 9:35:49 AM

For details, write #148 on Free Info Page, page 136 CJJUN2012_PAJ_ELLE_JEWELLERY_9900_FP.indd 19

4/27/12 1:46:33 PM

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For details, write #149 on Free Info Page, page 136

Mirage Creations Inc. 221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4 Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677 e-mail:

4/27/12 1:52:05 PM

Canadian Jeweller Magazine - June/July 2012  

In this issue we feature UK olympics and Jubilee fever, vintage watch craftsmanship, a cover story with Brent Trepel from Ben Moss Jewellers...

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