t h e b u s i n e s s o f r e t a i l i n g j e w e l l e r y s i n c e 18 7 9
J A N U A RY 2 0 1 3
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En Français
Time of Change
VOTRE VITRINE VAUT SON PESANT D’OR
LANA SCHMIDT A NEW GENERATION FRANCHISEE
Special Feature:
EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW WITH PA NDOR A’S Scott Burger
POP CULTURE DOMINATES TEEN JEWELLERY TRENDS
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24 Gold Group Ltd. Gold Dealer & Refining Company
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Canadian Jeweller B: 9.25 X 11.125in T: 9 x 10.875in L: 8.5 x 10.375
EPHRAIM ZION of Dehres Limited handles more diamonds in a day than most people see in a lifetime. Here he discusses the power of reputation, global diamond investment and why a GIA report is vital to any business built on integrity.
What’s something most people don’t know about your job? It’s the only business in the world conducted on trust. You sell 1 to 5 million dollars just on the telephone, without even a signature.
A diamond dealer’s most valuable asset? Reputation. Yes, you need a sense of artistic value and a knack for design, but the most essential part is integrity. You can’t survive without it.
What has doing business in Hong Kong taught you about the Asian market? It’s one of the strongest in the world. Every day, there are new millionaires and new businesses. Asians are very investment-conscious. Diamonds are safer and more profitable than money in a bank.
All-time favorite purchase? Most recently, a 100+ ct. D FL. Incredible brilliance and scintillation. Such a beauty. People fell down when they saw it. Did it arrive with a grading report? Ha, ha. GIA, of course. What responsible businessman, with a good reputation and name, would sell a diamond For details, write #102 on Free Info Page, page 136
without a GIA report?
Why is a GIA evaluation so important to one’s reputation? It’s the most reliable, authentic, dependable gem institute in the world. People know that, especially in the Far East. Remember what I said about reputation? A GIA report is crucial.
Business words to the wise? Selling is an idea game. The more knowledge you have, the more confidence you feel.
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GIA gratefully acknowledges those who, for 80 years, have used our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU For details, write #121 on Free Info Page, page 168.
8/29/11 9:57:49 AM
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ESTABLISHED 1879 JANUARY 2013 • VOL. 134, NO. 1 Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com Frank Shoniker Vice President, Operations | frank@gorgmgo.com EstablishEd 1879 January/february 2011 • vol. 132, no. 1 Lucy Holden Associate Publisher | lucy@rivegauchemedia.com Erin Poredos| Creative Business Coordinator | erin@gorgmgo.com Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief olivier@rivegauchemedia.com lucy holden Associate Publisher | lucy@rivegauchemedia.com
Joanne M. Brathwaite Web Content Editor | joanne@gorgmgo.com
CarolIrina besler Consulting Editor Coordinator | irina@gorgmgo.com Lytchak Editorial Paul aguirre AssociateJennifer Editor | Hopf paul@rivegauchemedia.com Editorial Intern | intern@gorgmgo.com
Dana Reynolds Editorial Intern | intern2@gorgmgo.com scott Jordan Art Director | scott@rivegauchemedia.com Elena Viltovskaia Designer | graphics@rivegauchemedia.com stacy Karjala Designer James| material@rivegauchemedia.com March Art Director | james@rivegauchemedia.com Elizabeth Valiaho Production Coordinator | production@rivegauchemedia.com Sarah Vincett Graphic Designer | sarah@rivegauchemedia.com Erin Booth Production Coordinator | production@rivegauchemedia.com Melanie seth Controller & Operations | finance@rivegauchemedia.com sunjoyo tanto Web Programmer | sunjoyo@rivegauchemedia.com Melanie Seth Controller & Operations | finance@gorgmgo.com Erin Poredos Sales Assistant | erin@gorgmgo.com Henry Fonseca Finance Administrator | henry@gorgmgo.com
chris Davey, lorraine Depasque, Martin irving, CONtRibUtORs Marielle de Spa, Veronique Dubé, Nicole Fotheringham, CONTRIBUTORS John lamont, charles lewton-brian, Donna Jean
Jennifer Hopf, Babar Khan, John Lamont, Pierre Ostiguy, MacKinnon, Duncan parker, lihn pham, Dean Steven Schelling, Bonnie Siegler, Dustin Delfs sanderson, bonnie siegler.
salEs lucy holden
SALES
AssociAte publisher Lucy Holden ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117 TEL . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117 email lucy@rivegauchemedia.com EMAIL
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Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product No.Media 40678000. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all Published by Agreement Rive Gauche ii inc. representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not
canada post canadian publications Mailof sales Agreement No.an 40678000. the publisher does not assume anyshall responsibility forthe theamount contentsofofthe anypublisher’s advertisement andfor anysuch and advertising. all the fault theproduct publisher and in such event the limit of the publisher’s liability not exceed charge No portion of this publication representations or warranties made advertising those of without the advertiser and notwritten of the publisher. the is notCanadian liable to any advertiser for anyismisprints inreview advertising not mayin besuch reproduced, inare all or part, the express permission ofpublisher the publisher. Jeweller magazine pleased to unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by canadian Jeweller material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Ste. 1106, Toronto, ON Canada M4W 3B8. and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. please direct submissions to the editor, canadian. return undeliverable items to rive Gauche Media, 60 bloor street West, ste. 1106, toronto, oN canada M4W 3b8.
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per subscription per year (Canada only).
Change Address canada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. united states — one year, us$205. Foreign — one yearof us$205 (subscriptions include buyers’ Guide issues.) 8% p.s.t. for Newfoundland, New brunswick and Nova scotia residents. single copies — $25; buyers’ Guide $40. bulk1-877-547-2246 rates — six or more email: cj@publicationpartners.com telephone: fax:subscriptions, 905-509-0735$17.50 per subscription per year (canada only). or send your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller c/o Publication Partners, 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101, Pickering, ON Canada L1V 1A1
CJ
January/February 2011
8
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
CJ J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 3 |
WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM
12/16/10 11:28:53 AM
12-12-21 9:26 AM
A MODERN CLASSIC
For details, write #121 on Free Info Page, page 80.
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68
44 80
[FEATURES] JANUARY 2013 41. Presidential rules As Pandora’s newest president, Scott Burger discusses his plans to continue the success of the fashion jewellery brand
44. stepping up to the challenge Lana Schmidt entered into the world of watches and accessories and hasn’t looked back since
80. Forever vintage Today’s jewellery trends are proof that vintage jewellery will never go out of style
86. jmi’s CAUTIONARY TALE Jewelers Mutual Insurance offers tips on personal and professional safety measures
68. Honouring the art of Jewellery design Rewarding Canadian jewellery designers for their innovative concepts and creative use of material
74. Spring teen Jewellery Trends Pop culture and environmental changes are the driving forces behind today’s teen jewellery trends
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CJ en français: 51. Les nouvelles 58. VOTRE VITRINE VAUT SON PESANT D’ÔR 60. POUR SAVOIR À QUOI S’EN TENIR
www.canadianjeweller.com
13-01-02 9:11 AM
1-877-LILI-USA
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36 84
[DEPARTMENTS] JANUARY 2013 www.twitter.com/CJMag TM
14.
Letter from the editor
18.
Product Showcase
88. LOSS PREVENTION PROCEDURES Discussing the importance and necessity of solid loss prevention strategies and procedures
26. star watch 28.
who’s news
90. Showcase/marketplace
30.
industry photos
98.
36.
for the record
Last word
84. designer profile - LE VIAN CEO Eddie Le Vian gives new life to a family business best known for a collection of bold and colourful statement jewellery
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www.canadianjeweller.com
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The Heart & Soul of Wedding Bands Seamless tubing blanks, diamond cut. Available in Sterling silver, 10K, 14K, 18K, 19K, & platinum. To have a rep visit you please call us! www.atlanticengraving.com
1435 St. Alexander #455 - Montreal, Qc.
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T: 1 800 267 7823 ~ 514 845 8257
E: info@atlanticengraving.com 2012-10-10 9:25 AM 12-12-19 5:01 PM
letterfromtheeditor
Recognizing the industry’s next generation A new year always makes one think about fresh starts and new beginnings. In this issue we profile, Lana Schmidt, a Watch It! franchise owner whose unconventional entrÊe into the industry was a unique and refreshing one. Often in our industry the love for jewellery is passed down the family tree. There are many businesses, both retail and manufacture, that have survived the test of time by being passed from one generation to another. I found it very interesting that Schmidt who worked in healthcare for 20 years before taking over a Watch It! in Edmonton, with no history in the business or retail sectors, has made a great success of her new venture. Schmidt proves that enthusiasm and great customer service go a long way in opening doors in an industry where legacies and dynasties are the norm. We are celebrating not only a new year, but also a new generation of franchisees and retailers that show this industry is incredibly welcoming, inviting and scalable.
SCAN ME TO GO TO OUR WEBSITE
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Olivier Felicio Publisher/Editor-in-Chief
WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM
12-12-19 1:02 PM
22
Best Bargains
CELEBRATING
YEARS
IN THE SHOW BUSINESS
Package 201: Genuine Gemstone and Fresh
Water Pearl Brooch set in base metal, available in a. Amethyst (shown), b. Peridot, c. White Topaz d. Tourmaline, e. Aquamarine, f. Turquoise, g. Black Onyx
Package 706: 10kt. W/Y Gold 3mm Earrings, set with all 12 month genuine gems.
Package 744: 14kt. Gold Freshwater Pearl Earrings: a, b: 8.5-9mm, c. 7.5-8mm d. 7-7.5mm, e. 5.5-6mm
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For more Products visit our website at
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12-12-21 11:10 AM
thecontributors
MARIELLE DE SPA
NICOLE FOTHERINGHAM
DUSTIN DELFS
STEVEN SCHELLING
Marielle de Spa is a jewellery investment advisor and opinion expert. She is also the founder of Pièces de Collection (www. marielledespa.com), an international consulting firm based in Toronto, specialized in privately offering, sourcing and appraising collection gems and fine jewellery. A GIA Graduate Gemmologist and Master Valuer trainee, she brings more than 20 years of consulting, public relations and marketing expertise in the luxury goods sector, working for firms such as Cartier, Chanel and LVMH across Europe, North and Latin America. Marielle examined the art of vintage jewellery for this issue on page 80.
Nicole Fotheringham is originally from South Africa where she started her career as a journalist for The Natal Mercury Newspaper. She has traveled and worked all over the world including the Middle East, Asia and South America. She currently freelances for several magazines and newspapers from her home in Toronto where she lives with her husband and a very bad dog. Nicole is a pro when it comes to tracking trends; see her story on page 74.
Alberta-based photographer and founder of Laughing Dog Photography, Dustin Delfs, has been capturing people and places for more than a decade. Driven by creativity and technical knowhow, Dustin and his powerhouse team of Dwayne Martineau and Adam Godreau regularly strive to create quality and professional portfolio pieces for their clients. Laughing Dog's unique style is developed from a broad range of photographic experience, ranging from editorial to advertising. The company recently reached its 10year milestone (that's 53 in dog years!). Dustin shot this issue's cover and cover story on page 44.
Steven Schelling is a West Coastbased freelance lifestyle writer and editor. When not walking his beagle along Vancouver's breathtaking Seawall or hitting the city's latest hot spots, he writes for such publications as NUVO Magazine, Montecristo and The Globe and Mail, as well as Western Living and BCBusiness magazines, where he is a contributing editor. Steven interviewed Pandora's Scott Burger for this issue of Canadian Jeweller on page 41.
PAGE 74-78
PAGE 41-43
PAGE 80-83
PAGE 44-49
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WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM
12-12-20 11:13 AM
FINE STERLING SILVER JEWELLERY
1.888.388.4736 WWW.ETHANSTARS.COM
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12-12-19 5:09 PM
productshowcase
1
2
3
4
1. BASELWORLD – Brilliance Meets
our products. In platinum or in yellow, white or pink gold, with diamonds or
From April 25 to May 2, 2013, Basel is being transformed into a stage for
without, in any number of fabulous finishes, make your client’s dreams come
the world’s most influential brands, allowing visitors to experience the
true with MALO.
watch and jewellery industry in an exceptional ambiance. BASELWORLD is being held in the new hall complex designed by star architects Herzog
4. Best Bargains
& de Meuron for the first time. www.baselworld.com.
Multi-colour gemstones are all the rage this year. Why not try one of the several new bold earring styles in multi-colour gemstones from the Jewels
2. Ethan Stars
by Anita collection? These lovely chandelier earrings are hard to keep in
This bold sterling silver ring from Creation Le Grenier is the perfect statement
stock! They are available in two sizes and with a variety of colours in both
piece. Set with cubic zirconium and an eye-catching midnight blue
white and yellow gold. The large size is set with over 20cts of gems and a
cat’s eye, this ring is sure to dazzle at any elegant event.
smaller version is set with 12cts of gems. They are set with complementary colours of green and purple amethysts, citrine, lemon quartz, aquamarines
3. Malo Creations
and peridots. Or why not have yours customized with gems of your choice?
Today, as the third generation of MALO jewellers, we continue our family
Retail value: $1,800.
tradition of embracing quality and beauty in every step of the creation of
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www.canadianjeweller.com
12-12-20 11:00 AM
BASELWORLD.COM
THE WATCH AND JEWELLERY SHOW
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APRIL 25 – MAY 2, 2013
10.07.12 12:04 12-12-19 5:24 PM
productshowcase
1
2
4
3
1. YOUR CLIENTS CAN NOW BE A DIAMOND
3. Lotus Jewellery
Augenstern manufactures diamonds using the carbon from the hair of your
The Lotus Jewellery design team has been busy improving on the popular
clients or from their dearest loved ones. An Augenstern Hair diamond is
Ice 925™ line. Each Ice 925™ piece is delicately crafted in sterling silver and
the perfect product to commemorate a very special moment in life like a
features exquisite Canadian diamonds. The line consists of earrings, pendants,
wedding or the arrival of a new baby. Children can seal their bond within
rings and bracelets, and each piece comes with our customized gift boxes.
an Augenstern Hair Diamond by combining their hair carbon to offer their
Ice 925™ is an affordable classic option for your customers but has the wow
parents a unique piece of jewellery. Contact us to became an Augenstern
factor of stunning sterling silver and diamonds. Watch for new designs coming
Hair Diamond retailer.
in the new year! Suggested retail prices range from $69 to $299.
2. ELLE JEWElRY COLLECTIONS
4. Society of North American Goldsmiths
This fall, indulge yourself with ELLE Jewelry’s Perimeter Collection,
The annual Society of North American Goldsmiths conference is more
featuring the rich colours of black and red agate. This collection focuses
rejuvenating than a trip to the spa. Engage with jewellers, designers,
on the natural beauty of the agate stone with faceted texture accented
metalsmiths, and other artists working in any metal.
with curb chain details, perfect for the warm colours of the season. The
exhibitions, demos, professional development, social events, and
collection includes a variety of styles in bracelets, pendants, earrings
invigorating immersion in your community. “Meta-Mosaic,” Toronto, May
and rings.
15-18, 2013. Visit www.snagmetalsmith.org for more info.
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Presentations,
www.canadianjeweller.com
12-12-18 5:11 PM
Bijouterie / Je wellery
Specializing in:
Reverse colours available on all rings.
Two-Tone or Plain, Comfort Fit or Regular Wedding Bands in 10K, 14K, 18K, and Platinum.
For details, write #115 on Free Info Page, page 136
Catalogue available on request. Almost 100 new models added.
Head Office: 1117 Ste-Catherine O., Suite 418, Montreal, Quebec H3B 1H9 Tel: (514) 845-0066 • Fax: (514) 845-3697 • Toll Free: 1 888 465-0065 • info@legajeweller.com Quebec contact Marcel Dumontet Tel: (514) 865-7235
Proudly Canadian
Ontario Toll Free: 1 888 465-0065
Manitoba contact Rube Helman Toll Free: 1 800 665-3314
Alberta, Sask., British Columbia contact Vahan Mele Tel: (647) 284-5067 Marcel Dumontet Tel: (514) 865-7235
Visit our website for more selections: www.legajeweller.com
GUARANTEED PROMPT SERVICE • GUARANTEED PROMPT SERVICE • GUARANTEED PROMPT SERVICE • GUARANTEED PROMPT SERVICE
CJJUN2012_Lega_8916_FP.indd 21
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productshowcase
1
2
4
3
1. How can we help you? Stuller’s Toronto Service Centre
3. Introducing the Ashley Anne Collection from Midas Jewelry
Stuller’s Toronto Service Centre is centrally located to serve our valued
We now offer engagement rings and matching bands in addition to our vast
Canadian partners. Minimize your shipping costs and eliminate the need
selection of wedding rings. This collection of bridal sets will please even
to pay duties by calling our Toronto team to place your order. Or take
the most discerning bride-to-be. Each set is exclusively designed to fit the
advantage of our walk-in service to get what you need immediately. All the
personality, style and taste of future brides. To see the full collection and
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At the Academy of TV Arts & Sciences performer nominees Emmy reception, Connie Britton chose a pair of Sutra 18k blackened gold, emerald and diamond drop earrings ($27,475), 18k blackened gold emerald and marquise-cut diamond ring ($7,400) and the matching 18k blackened gold emerald and diamond bracelet ($12,200).
Emmy winner Jessica Lange chose Carrera y Carrera’s 18k yellow gold drop earrings with diamonds ($11,700) and the matching 18k yellow gold bracelet with diamonds ($16,600) for the event. She also went for Carrera y Carrera’s Melodia 5 strings 18k yellow gold ring with diamonds ($5,100).
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Michael M designs have been popping up on celebs lately. Tia Mowry chose Michael M’s celestial earrings featuring 8.19cts of fancy rustic diamonds with yellow and white diamond accents ($25,000).
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PEOPLE MAKING HEADLINES IN THE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY
remaining focused on our mission of ensuring the public trust in gems and jewellery,” says Donna Baker, GIA’s president and CEO.
De Beers CEO heads synthetic diamond division Johann Ru
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Richemont CEO to step down in 2013 Johann Rupert will be stepping down as CEO of Compagnie Financière Richemont as of March 31, 2013. Rupert, who will still serve as chairman, will be succeeded by Bernard Fornas, former CEO of Cartier, a subsidiary of Richemont. Fornas will be overseeing the operating companies, while current deputy CEO Richard Lepeu will look after the company’s central functions. Rupert’s departure was expected and the company said it will not be changing its strategy. Richemont reported a 53 per cent increase in six-month net profit, as its luxury watches and jewellery remain in high demand.
GIA appoints new VP of human resources The Gemological Institute of American has named Mark Nechita as the new vice president of global human resources. Nechita joins the institute from DJO Global, a medical device company based in southern California. He takes over from Linda Scholl who held her former position with GIA for the past 10 years. “Mark’s diverse global experience will play an important role as GIA develops and improves to meet the needs of the global market while
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Philippe Mellier, De Beers Group CEO, has been appointed as chairman of Element Six, a synthetic diamond manufacturing subsidiary of De Beers. Mellier will be replacing Jonathan Oppenheimer, who will be parting ways after his family’s 40 per cent share was bought out by Anglo American. “Element Six is a global leader in its sector and a fascinating business, with exciting potential for growth,” said Mellier in a statement. “I look forward to working with the strong management team already in place to service our clients, open new markets, and develop innovative uses for synthetic diamond super materials.”
Jewelers Mutual promotes Carol Sanders Jewelers Mutual has promoted Carol Sanders to executive vice president and chief operating officer. Sanders joined the company in 2004, and until recently, served as senior vice president, chief financial officer, and corporate treasurer. In her new role, Sanders will be accountable for the company’s sales, distribution, marketing, underwriting, loss prevention, product management, pricing, actuarial services, project management, and business analysis functions, as well as lead strategic plan development. As EVP and COO, Sanders will continue to answer to president and CEO Darwin Copeman. In addition to her responsibilities at Jewelers Mutual, Sanders is on the board of directors for Alliant Energy Corporation and serves as their Audit Committee chairperson. [CJ]
Cynthia Carroll resigns from Anglo America Chief Executive Cynthia Carroll is resigning from Anglo America after five years, under pressure from investors over the mining group's lagging share price. New Jersey-born Carroll moved from the aluminum industry to become the first nonSouth African, first woman and the first outsider to take the top job at Anglo in 2007. When she was appointed, Carroll was given a mandate to drive through change in a company renowned for its conservatism. Carroll has agreed to stay on until a replacement is appointed. The lack of a named successor compounds the tensions Anglo faces amid wildcat strikes that have crippled its South African platinum operations.
Carol Sanders
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2012 JVC Jewellers’ Ball Excellence in Design honoured at the 2012 JVC Jewellers’ Ball BY IRINA LYTCHAK • PHOTOGRAPHY BY STACEY ROSENBLUM
November 10 marked the annual celebration of various Canadian jewellery designers who scored top marks in this year’s Excellence in Design contest. Held at the new Four Seasons hotel in downtown Toronto, the JVC Jewellers’ Ball started off with a cocktail reception and silent auction while guests were able to take in the stunning view of the city in a modern setting. The elegant evening continued with a dinner and a presentation during which Phyllis Richard, executive director of JVC, and Carla Adams, executive coordinator of JVC, were honoured for their contributions to the industry with the JVC President's Award - plaques hand-crafted by John Lamont, JVC director of crime prevention. Five Excellence in Design winners were presented with certification while one lucky guest won a diamond.
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1. Dave Vandenbroek, CEO, Alliance Genetics Canada and wife Kelly Vandenbroek, national sales manager, Fossil Canada 2. Erin Poredos, creative business coordinator, Rive Gauche Media Inc.; Lucy Holden, associate publisher, Rive Gauche Media Inc.; Norma Meneguzzi Spall, manager, Excellence in Design Awards 3. Ryan Goncalves, director of operations, The Time Shop/Time Central Ltd.; Leslie Goncalves, account manager, Time Central Inc.; Anna Matthews, regional manager, The Time Shop; Jordan Ardill, territory manager, The Premium Beer Company; Maja Telegravchiska, office manager, Time Central Inc.; Caroline Tascon, regional project coordinator, Trillium Health Partners; Ron Trepanier and wife Susan Kun, owner and designer, Susan Kun Jewellery Design, Canmore, B.C. 4. Norma Meneguzzi Spall with Susan Kun, winner of the Canadian Diamonds category for Excellence in Design 5. Phil Payne, president, Canadian Jewellery Expo, and wife Barb Payne; Lilie Ford, event director, Canadian Jewellery Expo; Garnet Irving, operations director, Canadian Jewellery Expo 6. Norma Meneguzzi Spall; Socrates Reppas, owner and designer, Marquis Jewellers, Toronto; Olivier Felicio, publisher, Rive Gauche Media Inc. 7. Michael Myslicki, jewellery designer, Ready Mounts Inc. and sister Kimberly Myslicki 8. Kevin Kaye, president, Citizen Watch Co. and wife Anne Kaye 9. Anna Matthews and Maja Telegravchiska 10. Phyllis Richard, executive director of JVC, was honoured along with Carla Adams, executive coordinator of JVC
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L’ORO Jewellery hosts Scott Kay and Maximum Brilliance Trunk Show BY IRINA LYTCHAK • PHOTOGRAPHY BY IRINA LYTCHAK
L’ORO Jewellery, a family business established in 1984, combined efforts with Scott Kay and Maximum Brilliance Canadian Diamonds for an exclusive weekend Trunk Show on October 26 that gave consumers an opportunity to meet with the representatives of the two brands. “The idea is really to lift the awareness and there are a lot of brands out there but we just wanted to focus on one diamond product and one bridal product,” says Haigo Derian, V.P. of L’Oro Jewellery. “The idea of today is to bring in some of our customers and let them talk to the reps. They get to talk to Scott Kay Canada or Maximum Brilliance and that creates a lot of security and trust. And our whole business is about trust. I believe the growth strategy of any jewellery merchant is to focus on their ethics.” “This is the launch of this special event and it goes hand-in-hand – many people are shopping for an engagement ring will also have questions about diamonds and vice-versa,” says Robert Cheszes, president of Diamond Industry of Canada. “It’s a great opportunity to showcase both brands.”
Aren Arkarakas, Haigo Derian, Shrenik Haji, and Robert Cheszes
Aren Arkarakas, managing director of Nouvo Mode, a distributor of Scott Kay, was also on hand at the event. “For Scott Kay this eventually means helping our retailers get to the next level in terms of us educating their clients on the brand, who Scott Kay is and what he’s developed,” says Arkarakas. “Ultimately, we’re Scott Kay specialists so this allows us to identify every question that a consumer has and it also helps us identify really what the end consumer is asking for. That’s one major reason why we do these events – it’s really to understand what people want.” The Trunk Show ran from October 26 to October 28 at the L’ORO Jewellery location in Vaughan Mills Shopping Centre. Customers were given the opportunity to meet with Scott Kay’s representative Aren Arkarakas and Shrenik Haji and Robert Cheszes of Maximum Brilliance for personalized, one-on-one consultations about any diamond and engagement ring inquiries. Visit nouvomode.com and maximumbrilliance.ca for more information about both brands. [CJ]
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Stuller unveils candy-inspired Sweethearts line If Stuller’s new Sweethearts collection looks familiar, it’s because they are sterling silver and enamel imitations of the candy conversation hearts with the same name. Similar to the popular ‘Be Mine’ and ‘Call Me’ sayings imprinted on the sugary confections, the collection features fun messages displayed on an array of colourful rings, bracelets, earrings and pendants. The line was launched November 1, in a partnership with licensor World Trade Jewelers that began last year with the release of the Hershey’s Kisses jewellery collection. The line is available at competitive price points, making it an ideal stocking stuffer or Valentine’s Day gift.
Harry Winston to acquire a majority stake in BHP Billiton Harry Winston Diamond Corp. is set to acquire a majority stake in the Ekati mine in the Northwest Territories, which will transform the Toronto-based firm into Canada’s first major diamond mine operating company. BHP Billiton’s diamond business went up for sale almost a year ago and was anticipated to sell for more than US$1 billion, even though the Ekati mine is expected to close in 2019. Harry Winston purchased Ekati for US$500 million with an additional US$140 million reclamation liability after a recent drop in rough diamond prices. The deal, which is assumed to fill a void in Canada’s capital markets, will enter a 60-day waiting
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period. Chuck Fipke and Stewart Blusson, the minority investors in Ekati, have a right of first refusal on the BHP stake.
National Association of Jewelry Appraisers launches redesigned website The National Association of Jewelry Appraisers (NAJA), the largest membership association specializing exclusive in gem and jewellery appraising, has re-launched their website into an innovative “go-to” resource centre and database of professional gemmologists and appraisers. The new web page, www.NAJAappraisers.com, has been revamped under the leadership of Gail Brett Levine, executive director at NAJA. It allows the public and the professional industry to
Jewelers of America, the Diamond Manufacturers & Importers Association of America and the Jewelers Vigilance Committee have created a new voluntary inventory management tool entitled the Diamond Source Warranty Protocol intended to give businesses greater assurance that the diamonds purchased from their suppliers were not obtained from disreputable sources. Though the Kimberley Process, established in 2003, remains the current process in place to restrict the acquisition of conflict diamonds, it does not address all the challenges faced through the diamond supply chain. Hence, the Protocol has been created because of a need in the industry for greater transparency and accountability. While the Protocol can be used by diamond retailers and suppliers as a means to ensure that the uncut or rough diamonds purchased did not come from questionable, or subject sources, it is not the responsibility of the Protocol to identify the sources. It is instead the decision of the company using the Protocol to not buy or sell from a particular source based on factors that include concerns regarding negative media attention or human rights abuses.
Swiss jeweller Chopard unveils Disneyinspired designs Swiss luxury jeweller and watch manufacturer Chopard, in partnership with London store Harrods, has unveiled its newest precious stonesbased collection inspired by Walt Disney’s Princesses. There are ten pieces in the collection ranging from bracelets and necklaces, to earrings
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fortherecord and rings. The Snow White ring represents the poisoned apple and is crafted from round-cut rubies. The Belle necklace is inspired by Belle’s iconic layered dress and features 69 carat tanzanites, blue round sapphires, amethysts, pink sapphires and diamonds.
De Beers is largest diamond mining group to be certified by the RJC De Beers, a miner and marketer of diamonds, has been granted certification from the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC). The certification is earned by meeting the ethical, social and environmental standards established by RJC’s member certification system. De Beers is the largest diamond mining group to achieve RJC certification and joins the ranks of companies like Cartier International, the Gemological Institute of America, Pandora, Rio Tinto and Tiffany & Co. “It is particularly pleasing to receive confirmation that we measure up to the exacting requirements of credible and external standards like the RJC’s,” said James Suzman, De Beers’ director of public affairs.
to Toronto. After nearly 50 years in Alberta, now at the Shaw Convention Centre in Edmonton, the expo is coming to the Metro Toronto Convention Centre August 11, 12, 13 of next year. On August 16, 17, and 18, the expo will be back in Alberta. Each expo features free event parking, entertainment, and promotional pricing offered by nearby amenities for retailers and exhibitors. The event coordinators are based in Toronto, with marketing and Western Canadian Jewellery corporate operations running in Edmonton. Exhibition spaces Expo expands to Toronto The renowned Western may be reserved by contacting Canadian Jewellery Expo, Lilie at 905-706-4249 or which has named Canadian clientservices_wcje@bell.net. Jeweller magazine as its official The website is currently under MCD Pearls Ad layout 1/20/11 6:09 PM Page 1 publication, is expanding construction. cultivating relationships with our partners in Canada,” says Mark Attales, director of market development at Stuller. “It is our hope that this program makes Stuller a better company for Canadians to do business with.” Stuller launched a 3:00 PM cutoff time on November 1 for all Canadian markets, which means that consumers, no matter where they are situated, have until 3 PM to place their order and be guaranteed next-day delivery.
Nunavut could potentially turn Canada into diamond mining powerhouse Gold, diamonds and iron ore mining have been the main contributor to Canada’s Nunavut Gross domestic product (GDP), but experts now believe that diamonds are set to be the most profitable for the 13-year-old territory. According to geologist and diamond expert, Herb Helmstaedt, this means that there is extreme potential of the region to grow the nation into a precious gemsmining powerhouse. Canada’s diamonds brought in almost $12 billion between 1995 and 2005 – $2 billion more than what Australian diamond miners earned in the same period.
Rio Tinto auctions off rough diamond collection Rio Tinto recently held an event in order to auction off some of the world’s largest diamonds. The invitation-only event, called the “Special’s Tender,” featured diamonds of over 10.8 carats mined from Rio Tinto’s mines in Australia, Canada and Zimbabwe. The event featured unique diamonds of various colours, including multiple canary yellows. The most expensive gem of the night, a brilliant white 22-carat stone named the Diavik Selene, was purchased by specialist Israeli diamond company, Eshed Diam. Rio Tinto is the only mining company certified by The Responsible Jewellery Council, the organization committed to promoting responsible practices throughout the jewellery industry.
Stuller extends order cut-off time for Canadian consumers
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In an effort to focus more on catering to the needs of the Canadian consumer, Stuller has introduced a new extended order cut-off time across Canada. “We are very committed to www.canadianjeweller.com
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fortherecord However, several diamond exploration projects currently ongoing in Nunavut seem to have hit a rough patch. Meanwhile, De Beers Canada and Peregrine Diamonds teamed up in September to develop Chidliak in a deal that will eventually give De Beers majority ownership of the property. Since opening in 2010, Nunavut’s GDP has increased by 12 per cent, primarily due to the impact of the Meadowbank mine. The mine currently employs more than 750 permanent employees, 36 per cent of whom are Inuit.
Omega opens first boutique within a retailer Omega opened its first completely devoted timepiece boutique within a retail store at Hyde Park Jewelers in Denver. The shop has its own storefront and the 1,200 square foot space was officially unveiled during a private screening of the latest James Bond film, Skyfall. “Hyde Park is honored to be selected as the first jeweler in the nation to open an Omega boutique,” says Hyde Park CEO Michael Pollak. “We are
proud to present over 300 watches and provide a total brand immersion experience.” Omega is also releasing its Seamaster Plant Ocean 600m Skyfall Limited Edition watch, as part of a joint marketing campaign.
Canada’s Afri-Can diamonds considers JSE listing Canadian marine diamond miner Afri-Can Diamonds, is examining a potential listing for the Johannesburg Stock Exchange (JSE). Afri-Can, which is listed on the Toronto Stock Exchange, launched a two-week sampling study on November 25 at its 800 square-kilometre concession nearby the Atlantic One Mining site, owned by Namdeb and the Government of Namibia. Company CEO Pierre Leveille says that the sampling survey would allow Afri-Can to formally declare an official resource. After that, the company would start trial mining on a 10 square-kilometre spot. Afri-Can has scheduled the potential JSE listing for the first half of 2013.
Atlantic Engraving Ltd. revealed new B2B website Atlantic Engraving Ltd. has launched their brand new B2B website. Clients can access it through a secure log-in and password, see up-to-date quotes on all aspects of their orders, and pay online. Visit www.atlanticengraving.com to explore the new layout and versatile functions of the website.
Signet Jewelers acquires Ultra Diamonds retail chain Signet has announced the purchase of the Ultra Diamonds retail chain. Current Signet CEO Michael Barnes says that his company’s new purchase: “will immediately result in our having a significant share of the outlet channel for jewellery…We had identified this rapidly growing channel as an opportunity to profitably increase our sales.” Signet currently own 34 retail outlets. Crystal Financial is currently Ultra’s majority shareholder acquiring 57 per cent of the company following the retail chain’s 2009 bankruptcy. Ultra has filed for chapter 11
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Stuller introduces Choose/Change/Create Stuller has released Choose/Change/Create, a new program that gives jewellers access to Stuller’s manufacturing expertise and industry experience. Choose/Change/Create introduces many brand-new, fully flexible designs and will allow jewellers to develop an innovative inventory while choosing from more than 200,000 items in Stuller’s stock. “This is the new direction of Stuller,” says Bob Cox, chief sales and marketing officer at Stuller. “We’re simplifying our vast array of products, tools, retail solutions and customization services into three intuitive choices for jewellers: choose, change and create.”
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fortherecord twice in the past 12 years; once in 2001 and again in 2009. Founded in Chicago in 1991, Ultra Diamonds has more than 140 stores located mostly in retail outlets and leased spaces.
Goldsmiths unveils Canadian Ice shop-in-shop Goldsmiths has unveiled its first branded shopin-shop for ethical diamond jewellery brand Canadian Ice, housed in its Westfield White City store in London, England. The floor-toceiling space features the red-and-white theme associated with the Canadian Ice brand. A number of exclusive pieces for the White City store will be on display as well jewellery from the brand’s higher-priced pieces, such as 1.5ct diamond studs and tennis bracelets. Goldsmiths worked alongside the ethical diamond brand to create the exclusive branded area, the first of its type in the UK, however, it’s an initiative that is likely to be rolled out to other Goldsmiths stores.
Charm Diamond Centres opens flagships store Charm Diamond Centres opened its 70th store at Quinte Mall in Belleville, Ont., in October. The flagship store is the company’s largest to date, at 2,500 square feet, and features a Swarovski store-instore partner boutique. The opening coincides with the company’s 40th anniversary. “Belleville sets a new precedent for jewellery stores,” said Troy Calder, President of Charm Diamond Centres. Cathy Powers – a well-known face at the Quinte Mall, having been in the jewellery industry for nearly 30 years – is the new store manager. Charm Diamond Centres has been named one of Canada’s 50 Best Managed Companies five times.
Diavik Diamond Mines Inc. earns a spot in Canada’s Top 100 Employers list Diavik Diamond Mines Inc. has been selected as one of Canada’s Top 100 Employers for the second consecutive year. More than 15,000 participating companies are evaluated based
on physical workplace, employee benefits, employee communications, training and development, performance managent and community involvement. The selection committee for Canada’s Top 100 Employers described Diavik’s workplace as “exceptional” and “one of the most unique work locations in Canada and the world.”
Kameleon launches e-commerce site JewelPop’s Kameleon has opened an e-commerce site, following the business decisions of companies like Ritani and Hearts on Fire that have also recently introduced similar e-commerce models. The site will let consumers choose to pick their purchase up from a local store or have it shipped to them directly. What makes Kameleon’s model unique is that either a local retailer that has the item in stock will be awarded the sale and do the shipping. If the stores are out of stock, Kameleon will ship the product. “Retailers like this solution because it gets product off their shelves,” says
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fortherecord Christine Gorney, a spokesperson for Shopatron, the California–based company that is handling order management for the site. “It also drives traffic to the retailers’ stores, so it gives them the ability to develop relationships with consumers and make add-on sales.”
Tiffany & Co. to invest $4 million in Canadian mining company Tiffany & Co. will be investing $4 million in Diamcor Mining Inc., a Canadian Junior diamond mining company with properties in South Africa. The investment will consist of a $2.4-million term loan and convertible debenture totaling $1.6 million. Diamcor is currently developing a project, the Krone-Endora at Venetia in South Africa, that it acquired from De Beers in 2011.
Vancouver-based Momentum by St. Moritz introduces the Polar Bear The Polar Bear is the newest piece from Momentum’s Deep 6 line of dive watches. The watch boasts a three-dimensional dial, and a matching scratchproof ceramic bezel. This is the latest in the ceramic 3D model collection, a collection that Momentum champions as a completely new take on the traditional dive watch. The Polar Bear has a case solid 316L stainless steel screw back and power silver oxide cell, offering a five-year battery life. The watch also has hh/mm/ss time and date functions, a crystal heat-tempered mineral crystal face and water resistance up to 200 metres or 660 feet. Momentum by St. Moritz is a Vancouver-based specialty watch manufacturer, and is the watch company of adventure enthusiasts. The company is best known for their expertise in waterproof watches that are functional, yet robust, and built to last.
House of Jewellery anniversary
celebrates
25th
House of Jewellery, a sterling silver jewellery wholesaler in Toronto, is celebrating their 25th anniversary. To mark the occasion, the company will be releasing a 100-page, full-colour catalogue that will be distributed to all of their retailers across Canada. House of Jewellery was established in 1986 and has grown into a leading jewellery wholesaler in Canada as its mission to bring utmost quality to customers. Visit the House of Jewellery website for a full preview of merchandise houseofjewellery.com/.
Gemfields to purchase Fabergé Gemfields, one of the world’s foremost coloured gemstone producers, will purchase Fabergé in a transaction valued at $142 million. With this acquisition, Gemfields will own 100 per cent of the line famous for its bejeweled eggs. The storied Fabergé brand, most familiar to North Americans for its line of perfumes and colognes including BRUT, was founded in 1842 by Russian jeweller Peter Carl Fabergé. Owned currently by Pallinghurst since 2007, the company brought on members of the founder’s family for the first time in 58 years. Fabergé currently has stores in Hong Kong, London, New York and Geneva with intensions to open two a year for the next ten years in order to reach 71 stores by 2033. The company is targeting to reach $6.5 million in annual sales with the opening of each new store. Gemfields will join a small, yet expanding, group of miners who own a retail chain.
Pantone names Emerald as colour of the year for 2013 Pantone Inc., a company specializing in creating colour standards for the fashion, beauty and home industries, has chosen Emerald as the colour of the year for 2013. Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute, the research division of Pantone Inc., says that Emerald is representative of growth, renewal and regeneration for many different cultures. “It celebrates new life, and that, we feel, is a good message because it speaks of optimism for the future,” says Eiseman. Emerald is also closely related to the gemstone as a result of which, it has sophisticated implications and is a well-balanced colour, according to Eiseman. It is subtler than last year’s top colour, Tangerine Tango, a reddishorange. Pantone’s annual colour projection is based on various influences that include graphic design, fashion, film and television.
TAG Heuer wins top honours in Geneva and hosts exclusive NYC event TAG Heuer’s Mikrogirder Chronograph won the 2012 Aiguille d’Or, also known as the grand prize, at the annual Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix. The ceremony, which is also known as the Oscars of the watch industry, praised the TAG Heuer timepiece for being one of this year’s most outstanding watches. TAG Heuer also hosted an exclusive party at the American Museum of Natural History’s Cullman Hall of the Universe with brand ambassadors Cameron Diaz and Leonardo DiCaprio. The event was attended by 500 guests and for every person, TAG Heuer donated $100 to New York Cares’ Hurricane Sandy Relief Fund and to Diaz’s partner charity, UN Women. [CJ]
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PRESIDENTIAL RULES By Steven Schelling
Pandora’s president Scott Burger finds that basic principles equal profit
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In a time of economic uncertainty, it’s best to go back to the basics. At least, that’s the personal business philosophy of Scott Burger, the president of North American operations for Dutch fine jewellery wholesaler Pandora. Formerly the company’s North American COO, Burger slipped behind the president’s desk in August of 2012 and started off his tenure by taking stock and keeping things simple. “The biggest priority for me was to just maintain the momentum that we have in the market,” he says on the phone from Pandora’s North American headquarters in Columbia, Maryland. “I think that when you go through an economic environment like we went through, whether you’re in jewellery or anything else, you have to understand how that’s going to impact your business and adjust accordingly. For us, that has meant really making sure that we are providing very good products at the most affordable price point. And still being able to provide new, fresh and relevant product to people if they’re in a situation where they can only spend half of what they spent a year ago.
calls “the consumer’s perceived value.” At the end of the day,” he says with a laugh, “you can only charge what people will pay. Even though it sounds overly simplistic… getting back to that reality was and is very important.” From a product standpoint, Pandora’s focus was an exhaustive and time-consuming evaluation of its more than 3,000 retail partners in the United States and nearly 400 Canadian vendors. “Part of being a successful wholesale company is having healthy retail partners,” he explains. “And part of having healthy retail partners is making sure their inventory is turning and they’re generating the cash flow they need to be able to support and invest in their business.” To that end, Pandora launched a bottom-up stock alignment program in early 2012 that discontinued underperforming products while simultaneously allowing retail partners to trade out older stock for proven sellers, most of which came from the company’s renewed focus on its core products of bracelets and beads. “We’ve had a number of quarters with consecutively positive growth and it was good to see that continue through the third quarter of this year,” Burger states.
“Really it came down to three core principles: price, product and execution.” Price, Burger’s first pillar, was tackled with an aggressive restructuring in 2012. Pricepoints were rolled back on the company’s bestselling items to better align with what Burger
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“Our dealers are seeing very strong performances with the new collections and the efforts of the stock balancing program.” An added benefit of the stock alignment has been the stronger relationships the company now enjoys with its partners. “The program has really reinforced for us how strong the link is between what happens on the retail floor and what needs to happen on a warehouse floor or a marketing floor to support it,” he asserts. This deeper understanding of the link between Pandora and its partners was key to Burger’s third pillar: execution. “Really, it was about us going out and making sure that we are working with each and every partner to optimize the business,” he says. “Understanding what’s working and what isn’t. And then when you get back to our offices, making sure the offices are doing things to support not only our field staff, but our partners in a way that is going to help them drive their business.
Asked what the company will do to stay true to that vision over the next few years, Burger is committed to a slow and steady approach. “I see the next two-to-three years as more of the same.
Creating stylish products at affordable prices, getting back to basics about what our core business is and continuing to work with our partners to make sure that access is on the level and scale that we need it to be. “It really goes back to the vision of the founder. It was to provide genuine jewellery at affordable prices. It’s always been a cornerstone of the company and I intend to stay committed to that vision.” [CJ]
“Within our portfolio of products, we go from sterling silver to 18k gold,” he continues. “The pricepoints ramp up pretty aggressively from one to the other. Being able to make sure that we have an adequate assortment up and down the price structure to offer our dealers is critical to making sure that we have pieces that people not only like and want to have, but will invest in. It really goes back to the vision of the founder. It was to provide genuine jewellery at affordable prices. It’s always been a cornerstone of the company to be able to stay committed to that vision.”
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Time of Change T OP BR ANDS AND IMP ECCABLE CU STO MER SERVICE MEAN R EPEAT B U SINESS FO R A N E WC OM ER T O T HE WAT CH G A M E By Irina Lytchak Photography by Dustin Delfs
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Most business owners swear by the principle that good customer service is the key to success. For Lana Schmidt of Watch It! at the Edmonton City Centre in Edmonton, AB, this means that customer service always comes first. “If a customer’s not happy, they’re not going to come back. We rely a lot on repeat business and word of mouth,” says Schmidt. “Especially based on where we are, we’ve had a lot of people come in and say, ‘We’ve had great service, and we’ll send people here.’ That’s huge for us.”
didn’t think that would be something I could attain or something that would work for me.” Schmidt says she knew Darren Bondar, founder and president of Watch It!, back when they were neighbours. “He was always so happy and full of excitement about his company.” Prior to Watch It!, Schmidt was in the health care industry, working in various areas of a hospital, eventually transitioning into the surgical department. Yet Schmidt found that she had reached a point where her career was no longer a challenge.
Stepping up to the plate
Schmidt bought her current Watch It! boutique, which was part of a prestigious watch, sunglasses and accessories retail chain, over two years ago. However, she didn’t come into the watch industry with years of retail- or even business-experience. “I worked in health care for 20 years and I was looking for a change,” she says.
When Darren Bondar offered her an opportunity to work at the Edmonton location of Watch It!, Schmidt was coming to the table with absolutely no retail experience. “It’s quite crazy because within a month I took over the store,” she says. “Now I’m there full-time and I run it. The other coowner, Shelley Holte, is a silent partner so I have been 100 per cent hands-on.”
“I was even thinking about going into the police force but I’ve been into the [Watch It!] stores before and I really liked the atmosphere. I’ve always loved watches and sunglasses, but I
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While Schmidt juggles duties that include accounting, placing orders, payroll, and hiring and training employees, one of her most essential roles is working with clientele on a daily basis.
“I’ve coached sports throughout my life and I have always been into the team atmosphere. With Watch It!, I thought I’ll try it for a while and see how it goes, and I absolutely love it!”
“I’ve always been a people person,” says Schmidt.
A brand new world
Having her store located in a busy city mall has helped Schmidt attract a lot of new clientele. The store has also recently undergone a facelift, which has allowed clients to make their purchases in a revitalized,modern setting. The new store boasts a redesigned interior with a balance of natural and new interior lighting. “We’ve merchandised all of our inventory so that everything is very easy and accessible,” explains Schmidt. “We’ve made it very modern and cozy. The store now has a large selection of mirrors where [customers] can try on their sunglasses. We also have a couple of barstools at our desks so that they can sit when they’re getting their sizing done and just relax.” Full-service stop
While many watch and jewellery stores generally accommodate a particular clientele, Schmidt says her Watch It! location attracts diverse customers.
Before entering the world of watches, Schmidt never imagined the potential of the industry.
“During the week, our main customer comes from…the business core,” she explains. “We get quite a few clients that are lawyers and doctors.”
“People think there’s nothing too exciting about [watches] but there’s actually a lot to know and learn,” she reveals. “There are so many different movements, models, dials and colours out there – it’s really quite interesting.”
On evenings and weekends the store is usually filled with regular and returning customers, as well as families and children. To address the needs of such a divergent clientele, Watch It! provides a range of services.
Watch It! opened the doors to its flagship boutique at the West Edmonton Mall in Alberta in 1999. It happened right after founder Darren Bondar came across a watch shop in New York and realized that Canada didn’t offer the same type of tailored service and product selection to its own shoppers. Schmidt’s boutique location is one of four in Edmonton, while a total of 23 are currently operating across Canada.
“We offer watch-cleaning services and battery replacements while the customer waits so that they can wear that watch out,” says Schmidt. “We offer most kinds of repairs as well, and one of our policies is that when you buy a watch with us, sizing is free.” Through her interactions with shoppers, Schmidt has noticed that providing a quick service while the customer waits in-store has been an www.canadianjeweller.com
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coverstory integral part of Watch It!’s success. While many other boutiques send the product out to get it fixed, having it repaired within a few hours on-site makes for a very happy customer – one who may also shop around for other products while waiting. “We really do our best for a customer and it’s important that we cater to various age groups. That’s why we’ve got some great kid’s watches as well now,” says Schmidt. “We’ve got something for every age group, which is great.” Product and brand selection
All Watch It! merchandise across Canada is initially approved by corporate head office while the store owners get to decide on which specific lines and collections they carry in their own store. “It’s a very individual franchise,” says Schmidt. “I have decisions to make and most of the time, I make them based on our customers and our location. I like to carry high quality names like Bulova, Hugo Boss and Citizen. It’s all based on customer feedback and our staff. They listen to our customers, they get feedback from them and from our industry as well.”
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One of the store’s top selling brands has been Nixon and Watch It! is a principal retailer of this American brand for the Canadian customer. Schmidt reveals that brands like Michael Kors and Timex also sell well – the latter coveted by slightly older clients who prefer the simple design and easy-to-read dials. This year, the store will carry Lego brand watches, which Schmidt believes will be a best-seller beyond the holiday season. Lego watches have an analog time display, as opposed to digital, which teach children how to properly tell time. Schmidt is anticipating the arrival of the Citizen Eco-Drive Proximity, a timepiece that has a unique feature: iPhone 4S users can be notified when they have a phone call, email or text by pointing to a specific word on the dial. Schmidt says that she already has a list of customers who will be purchasing the watch once it arrives in the store, and expects that it will sell out rather quickly.
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coverstory Making the transition from working in the health industry to running her own prestigious watch and accessories boutique has come easily for Schmidt. She has a talent for reading her customers and the ability to provide them with a service that keeps them coming back to her store and the Watch It! brand. “Today, I’m doing what I love to do best,” she says. “I’m having fun, and the combination of my previous knowledge working with customers on a daily basis suits me perfectly.” [CJ]
AT A GL A NCE
WA T C H I T ! Number of stores: 23 Products and services: watches, sunglasses, accessories, repairs, battery replacement, watch sizing, watch cleaning Locations: Edmonton, Alberta and 22 retail locations across Canada, including Toronto, Ottawa, London, Vancouver, etc. Staff: 4 Website: watchit.ca Top-selling products/brands: Nixon, Bulova, Movado Bold, Bering, Citizen, Fossil, Esq. Movado, Seiko, Swatch, Phosphor, Oakley, Ray Ban, etc.
www.canadianjeweller.com
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Specializing in Natural Fancy Color Diamonds & Fine Jewellery!
Single Natural Fancy Color Stones from .50 carat and up in Yellow, Pink, Blue, Green and more (All certified G.I.A) STOCK# SHAPE HB/F/1337 RAD HB/F/1336 RAD HB/F/1335 CUSH HB/F/1339 CUSH HB/F/1331 CUSH HB/K/1329 CUSH HB/K/1322 RAD HB/F/1341 CUSH HB/F/1338 RAD HB/F/1301 RAD HB/F/1342 CUSH HB/K-1278 RAD HB/1302 CUSH HB/K/1240 RAD HB/F/1344 RAD HB/R/1297 RAD HB/K/1322 RAD HB/K/1334 RAD HB/K/1333 RAD HB/K/1306 RAD HB/S/1287 CUSH HB/K/1315 CUSH HB/K/1288 RAD HB/K/1317 CUSH HB/F/1319 CUSH HB/F/1345 RAD HB/K/1259 PEAR HB/K/1260 CUSH HB/K/1332 PEAR HB/F/1346 HS HB/F/1320 RAD H/F/1347 PEAR HB/S/1284 RAD
CARAT 0.64 0.78 0.90 1.05 1.05 1.10 1.19 1.21 1.29 1.34 1.35 1.46 1.53 1.57 1.90 2.12 2.19 2.59 3.05 3.08 4.01 5.03 5.05 7.08 9.11 15.11 1.18 1.57 3.06 5.19 0.81 1.00 1.74
COLOR CLARITY FIY VS1 FY VVS2 FY VS1 FY IF FIY VS1 FIY VS2 FY SI1 FIY IF FY VVS1 FIY VVS2 FIY IF FIY VS1 FIY SI2 FY IF FIY VS2 FVY IF FY VVS2 FY VVS2 FY VS1 FY IF FIY VS2 FY VS2 FY SI1 FY VS1 FY SI2 FY VS2 F/I/PINK H/C F/PUR/PINK HC F/PUR/PINK VS2 F/PUR/PINK H/C F/BLUE IF F/V/BLUE SI1 F/L/BLUE IF
DIMENSIONS 5.40X4.70X2.84 4.96X4.94X3.25 6.04X5.71X3.12 6.36X5.57X3.48 5.95X5.33X3.66 6.17X5.63X3.44 6.15x5.84x3.61 6.27X5.30X3.76 6.13X6.08X3.83 6.63x6.06x3.7 6.21X5.94X3.91 6.08x5.93x4.03 6.37x6.34x4.17 6.29x6.23x4.19 7.06X6.88X4.51 7.55X6.83X4.45 7.60X6.68X4.46 7.96X7.24X4.81 8.85X7.49X4.99 8.22x7.82x5.23 9.61x8.78x5.57 9.49x9.39x6 9.12x9.02x6.28 12.35x9.31x6.73 11.46X11.36X7. 14.55X13.27X8.19 7.62x5.39x3.74 7.03x6.62x4.05 13.35x7.46x4.42 10.08X10.34X6.25 5.69x5.50x3.07 9.24X5.52X3.08 6.91x6.82x4.32
LAB GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA
DEPTH 60.4 65.7 54.6 62.4 68.7 61.1 61.7 70.9 63 61.1 65.8 68 65.7 67.2 65.5 65.1 66.8 66.4 66.6 66.8 63.5 63.9 69.6 72.3 67.8 61.7
TABLE 75 72 67 59 65 71 65 62 67 71 70 69 59 68 67 64 68 68 64 65 61 68 68 61 63 71
59.2 60.4 55.7 55.8 63.4
63 62 73 59 60
GIRDLE POL TK-VTK VG TK-VTK VG VT-ETK VG M-TK EX VTK-ETK G VTK-ETK VG STK EX VTK-ETK EX TK-ETK VG ETK EX TK-ETK VG ETK VG TK-ETK EX TK-XTK VG STK-TK VG TN-ETK VG TK-VTK VG M-STK EX STK-TK VG M-VTK VG M-VTK VG TN-ETK VG STK-VTK G STK-ETK VG STK-ETK EX TK-VTK EX
SKT-ETK VTK-ETK TN-ETK M-ETK VTK-ETK
VG G G EX VG
SYM FLOUR VG N G N G N G N VG N G F VG F VG MB G N G MB G N G S G N G N G S G MB VG N EX N VG N G N G N VG S G N G N G N VG N
G G G G G
PRICE
Please call us for the price
N MB N N N
Tel: (416) 363-2111 Fax: (416) 363-1349 Toll Free: 1-866-211-7778 www.imperialcolordiamonds.com hossein@imperialcolordiamonds.com 55 Queen Street East, Suite 1209, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5C 1R6
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Les Nouvelles Par Véronique Dubé
La nouvelle collection de Bijoux Caroline Néron Le 15 novembre dernier, Caroline Néron dévoilait sa toute dernière collection de bijoux, spécialement conçue pour le temps des Fêtes. Fidèle à son image, les nouvelles créations se veulent féminines, sophistiquées et originales. D’abord, nous avons retenu l’ensemble dernier cri Les Inséparables, comprenant un collier et des boucles d’oreilles, ainsi que le bracelet à rangs multiples Sublimissime, très tendance pour son mélange éclectique de perles argentées et classiques, de cristal et de plaquettes métalliques. Encore une fois, les bijoux Caroline Néron sauront plaire à tous les budgets et à tous les goûts.
Ensemble d’alliances en or blanc 10 carats avec diamants totalisant 1 carat
MyJewelryBox.com et la période des Fêtes
D’une beauté à couper le souffle Mark-Paul Gosselaar, surtout connu pour son rôle dans la série Saved by the Bell, s’est marié plus tôt cet été à Catriona McGinn, une publicitaire de Los Angeles. L’acteur avait offert une bague fabriquée en platine, une création du réputé bijoutier Neil Lane, entièrement faite à la main. Elle déploie un diamant de taille coussin de 4,5 carats serti dans un pavé de diamants. Les modèles de bagues de fiançailles dits de « fantaisie » gagnent en popularité. La coupe coussin est probablement d’ailleurs une des plus anciennes coupes de diamant.
Dans le domaine de la bijouterie, les ventes de bagues effectuées dans la période s’étalant de la mi-novembre à la mi-février sont plus que considérables. La raison est fort simple. Le président et fondateur de MyJewelryBox.com, David Mamane, explique : « Les gens veulent généralement se marier au printemps ou à l’été. Comme la période des Fêtes est un moment agréable et chaleureux partagé en famille, beaucoup en profitent pour faire la grande demande. C’est donc le moment où l’on vend le plus de bagues de fiançailles et de mariage. » Pour profiter au maximum des retombées, MyJewelryBox.com proposent un éventail de produits à des prix compétitifs. De même, il offre plus de 2000 vidéos des différents produits offerts. M. Mamane croit fermement que le succès d’un site internet destiné à la vente repose sur le professionnalisme de sa conception afin d’inspirer la confiance des acheteurs. www.canadianjeweller.com
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Éclatante. Étincelante. Énergique. Noor Group International présente sa toute dernière collection de bijoux en argent sterling. Entièrement faits à la main, les bagues, les pendentifs, les boucles d’oreilles et les bracelets qu’ils proposent sont tous de design européen. Les pavés de pierres sont à l’honneur et offerts en plusieurs couleurs lumineuses. En plus d’être très à la mode, les prix suggérés sauront plaire à tous les budgets (prix de détail suggéré entre 50 $ et 300 $).
Découverte d’un rare diamant au Botswana Lucara Diamond Corp. (TSX :LUC) a extrait un diamant bleu de type II de sa mine Karowe au Botswana. « La découverte d’une pierre aussi rare est très importante pour Karowe », a déclaré M. Lamb, président-directeur général de Lucara Diamond Corp. Le diamant était le premier de la sorte à être identifié à Karowe et il a été mis en vente le 26 novembre 2012, où plus de 57000 carats de diamants étaient présentés.
Bijoux variés en argent
Stratton’s Jewellery’s
Bijoux variés en argent
Rembrandt Charm Department
Opera Diamond renaît “We are located in a heavy tourist area and purchased a Rembrandt display that holds 720 charms. This single tower has become a ‘destination’ for repeat customers and attracts people from everywhere. We are selling A TON of charms!”
Dave Stratton, owner
Stratton’s Jewellery, Banff, Alberta NUCO PRODUCTS
.com Thousands of charms in silver and gold.
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11 Progress Ave, Unit 17 • Scarborough, ON M1P 4S7 orders@rembrandtcharms.ca 800.387.5238 • 416.293.3495 24/7 fax 416.293.1227
En 1952, les frères Paul et Robert Crevier fondaient Opera Diamond Ltée et trois ans plus tard, ils ouvraient leur premier magasin à Montréal. Au fil des ans, ils ont parcouru les quatre coins du globe et ont proposé à leur clientèle des montres, des diamants, des bijoux, des bibelots et des accessoires inédits. En 1970, ils comptaient une vingtaine de magasins et de comptoirs au Québec. Aujourd’hui, toujours animés par la tradition de luxe abordable qui a forgé la réputation d’Opera Diamond, les enfants de Paul Crevier, Danielle et Louis, reprennent les rênes de l’entreprise familiale. C’est sur une vague à la fois originale et classique que Opera Diamond se laisse bercer, offrant une toute nouvelle collection de bijoux en argent de grande qualité.
www.canadianjeweller.com
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Bleu Comme Le Ciel C’est dans un décor minimaliste chic et épuré qu’on nous présente les dernières collections de bijoux de fantaisie haut de gamme des collections Clio Blue – dont l’ambassadrice est la Québécoise Natasha St-Pier -, Reminiscence, Gas Bijoux, Redline, Alexis Bittar et ginette_ny. Provenant principalement de Paris et de la Côte d’Azur, les créations triées sur le volet proposées par les boutiques Bleu Comme Le Ciel permettent aux acheteurs de voyager dans l’univers très distinct des différents designers qui les ont conçues. Que ce soit pour un look tribal actualisé, audacieux, mais toujours présenté avec élégante sensibilité, les boutiques Bleu Comme Le Ciel font sensation et ont déjà conquis des vedettes bien de chez nous telles que Julie Perreault, Véronique Cloutier et Isabelle Boulay.
Collection Reminiscence
Gas Bijoux
Une infinité de couleurs
L’Asie et la Turquie font leur place
Des scientifiques de l’Université de Southampton en Grande-Bretagne ont découvert une méthode permettant de changer notre perception de la couleur de l’or et de l’argent. Le procédé crée un motif en relief à la surface du métal. Ainsi, la façon dont le métal absorbe et reflète la lumière est modifiée. Les couleurs reflétées varient selon le type de métal ; pour l’or, ce sera le rouge et le vert tandis que pour l’argent, toutes les couleurs de l’arc-en-ciel seront perçues. Le nouveau procédé pourrait dans le futur être appliqué à la bijouterie.
Les salons de bijoux les plus achalandés et prestigieux sont certainement ceux de Las Vegas (États-Unis), de Bâle (Suisse) et de Vicenza (Italie). Pourtant, l’incertitude et les crises financières qui caractérisent actuellement le contexte économique mondial poussent de plus en plus de gens de l’industrie à se tourner vers l’Asie et la Turquie, tant pour les achats que pour les réseaux de distribution. Les raisons sont fort simples : la main-d’œuvre est beaucoup moins onéreuse et les opportunités d’affaires sont nombreuses.
Bonne nouvelle pour les distributeurs canadiens Il y a quelques années à peine, les compagnies européennes étaient très frileuses à l’idée de trouver des partenaires en sols canadien et américain. Cependant, la crise économique qui sévit en Europe a eu raison de leurs inquiétudes. De plus en plus de fabricants de bijoux européens sont à la recherche de distributeurs canadiens afin de diminuer les frais de représentation. Tel est le cas du Groupe GL qui, pour sa collection XC38, s’est tourné vers le distributeur Wenger’s de Montréal.
Very Sisters laisse libre cours à l’imagination
Mélange des styles Feuille, Bulle et Jonc
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En cette fin d’année, les Very Sisters Claire et Sophie proposent des bijoux qui sauront égayer toutes les tenues. Sans cesse à l’affût des dernières tendances, elles offrent pour les Fêtes des créations de fantaisie classiques à superposer. Pour un style à la fois frais et actuel, les bracelets « Feuille » rigides en laiton doré, argenté ou rosé compléteront à merveille les bagues de la même collection, aussi déclinées en trois couleurs. Pour un look plus audacieux, elles suggèrent de les mélanger aux bracelets et aux bagues « Bulle », aussi fabriqués en laiton et disponibles en trois couleurs. Allez-y : mixez, superposez et créez votre propre style…
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Trois nouvelles sur le diamant à suivre de près
Stornoway Diamond : les coûts supplémentaires
1. Les dommages causés par l’ouragan Sandy se font sentir au-delà de nos frontières. Les diamantaires indiens craignent maintenant une baisse significatif de leurs ventes, puisque les mois d’octobre et de novembre représentent la période où les bijoutiers commandent en prévision des Fêtes. 2. Les bénéfices nets de la compagnie Blue Nile Inc., un détaillant en ligne de diamants de grande qualité et de bijouterie fine, sont passés de 1,9 million en 2011 à 1,7 million en 2012, et la compagnie accuse un recul de 6,8 % par rapport au même trimestre l’année dernière. 3. Bien qu’Anvers représente depuis des centaines d’années le centre mondial du diamant, le marché belge est de plus en plus délaissé pour ceux de certains pays en développement où les salaires sont moins élevés, tels Mumbai, Dubaï et Shanghai.
Le 31 octobre dernier, le Parti québécois annonçait vouloir réévaluer l’entente signée par les libéraux de Jean Charest dans le dossier de la minière Stornoway Diamond, située au nord du Québec. En effet, le prolongement de la route 167 vers la mine de diamants coûtera plus cher que prévu. Selon la plus récente évaluation du ministère des Finances, la facture pourrait augmenter de plus de 140 millions de dollars. Or, l’entente prévoit que toute dépense supplémentaire sera payée à même les fonds publics.
Des bénéfices en hausse pour Pandora Après une année marquée par l’incertitude financière, le fabricant danois de breloques Pandora enregistre des résultats en hausse pour les ventes et les profits au troisième trimestre. La compagnie se dit d’ailleurs surprise de l’activité commerciale en sol nord-américain. « Le marché
est incertain, mais nous pensons que la marque Pandora est solide », selon le chef de direction Björn Gulden. Le chiffre d’affaires du groupe a augmenté de 14 % et ses profits nets de 11,4 % au troisième trimestre.
Le Salon international de la bijouterie de Hong Kong gagne en popularité Le Salon international de la bijouterie de Hong Kong (Hong Kong International Jewellery Show), qui aura lieu du 5 au 9 mars 2013, attire maintenant de nombreux acteurs importants de la bijouterie de l’Amérique du Nord. L’événement est aussi une occasion unique pour l’échange d’idées et de dernières nouveautés. En plus des exposants de haute joaillerie, de pierres précieuses, de perles, de diamants, de jade, de bijoux en argent et d’accessoires, on présente aux professionnels de l’industrie des séminaires sur les dernières tendances et les nouvelles initiatives de marketing.
Les montres Caroline Néron Caroline Néron propose une collection de montres pour femmes et pour hommes de qualité supérieure. En plus d’être très en vogue, elles sont équipées d’un mouvement suisse et sont entièrement faites d’acier inoxydable. On trouve des montres classiques au bracelet de cuir, des élégantes aux cadrans carrés, des audacieuses de couleur cuivre, des scintillantes ornées de cristaux Swarovski ainsi que des précises à chronographes.
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Un diamant bleu profond provoque une guerre aux enchères chez Sotheby’s à Genève Le 14 novembre dernier, le collectionneur de diamant Laurence Graff a payé 10,8 millions de dollars pour un diamant bleu profond de 10,48 carats. Il s’agit d’un record pour un diamant briolette, alors que le prix de départ du joyau était estimé entre 3,5 et 4,5 millions de dollars.
Les tendances masculines en matière de bijoux Les hommes, et ce, peu importe l’âge, hésitent de moins en moins à porter des bijoux audacieux. On remarque un retour en force de textures organiques, de bijoux aux couleurs voyantes, de maillons torsadés ou ajourés. Malgré tout,
les montres demeurent incontestablement le must have des bijoux pour hommes. On les veut surdimensionnées, parfois incrustées de pierres précieuses, ou tout simplement classiques alliant un look décontracté et raffiné.
la période de fin d’année, il importe de mettre l’accent sur les informations et d’assister les acheteurs dans leurs emplettes. À cet effet, la disponibilité du personnel est primordiale.
Un effet immédiat Pour ne rien manquer de la période des Fêtes Le temps des Fêtes est souvent la période cruciale de l’année qui détermine la réussite d’une entreprise commerciale. Les consommateurs modifient leurs habitudes pour leurs achats de Noël puisqu’ils représentent de gros volumes. Leurs attentes envers les commerçants sont augmentées; ils sont curieux, veulent des informations et ne font pas d’achats à l’aveuglette. Pour les entreprises qui souhaitent tirer profit de
L’annonce de la réélection de Barack Obama le 6 novembre dernier a manifestement eu pour effet économique d’aviver le prix de l’or. En effet, dès l’ouverture des marchés le lendemain de l’élection, l’or affichait un cours de 1728,45 dollars l’once alors qu’il avait sombré la veille à 1672,75 dollars. Si les investisseurs étaient encore hésitants quant à la direction qu’allait prendre le métal jaune, la réélection de Barack Obama à la présidence des États-Unis les a sans doute rassurés.
L’histoire des bijoux Shamballa
À gauche: Mikkel Kornerup, PDG. À droite: Mads Kornerup, directeur de la création.
Bracelet Shamballa avec émeraudes
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Les frères Mads et Mikkel Kornerup ont établi Shamballa Jewels à Copenhague, au Danemark. Leurs bijoux exceptionnels sont fabriqués pour correspondre à la sagesse et à la sensibilité qui les habitent. C’est en 2001 que Mads Kornerup a conçu ce qui allait devenir l’emblématique bracelet Shamballa. Selon le créateur, la valeur d’un bijou va bien au-delà des matériaux; sa richesse repose aussi sur les émotions qu’il évoque. Les perles de leurs créations, dont certaines sont constituées de pierres précieuses serties dans l’or, sont enfilées selon une ancienne technique de macramé. Depuis la fondation de l’entreprise en 2005, les deux frères ont aussi créé tout un assortiment de bagues, de boucles d’oreilles, de boutons de manchette et de colliers. La vedette de rap Jay-Z a été le premier client à commander un bracelet Shamballa personnalisé.
Bracelet Shamballa avec rubis
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Jeell
Ultimate Ceramic
Guy Laroche
Quand céramique et luxe se rencontrent Five Star Gold Inc. présente les dernières créations de ses prestigieuses collections Jeell, Guy Laroche et Ultimate Ceramic. D’abord, par sa joaillerie en céramique, en or et ornée de diamants, Jeell propose une riche gamme de bijoux contemporains et somptueux. Quant à elles, les pièces originales pour hommes de Guy Laroche sauront certainement plaire aux plus audacieux. Elles allient avec ingéniosité nouvelles matières et luxe. Finalement, la sélection de bijoux offerts par Ultimate Ceramic est abordable, conjuguant à la fois céramique, acier et diamants, pour un effet chic et affirmé.
Cinq astuces pour survivre au temps des Fêtes Pour que votre entreprise ressorte gagnante de la période des Fêtes, il existe des moyens à mettre de l’avant. Premièrement, veillez à diversifier votre stock. Apportez du changement, un vent de renouveau attirera plus d’acheteurs et une clientèle plus diversifiée. Deuxièmement, utilisez les médias sociaux. Faites-vous remarquer : votre but est de rejoindre vos clients actuels, mais aussi leurs amis et leur famille. Soyez inventifs. Troisièmement, adaptez votre stock pour les utilisateurs de téléphones intelligents. Ainsi, ils pourront le partager via Facebook, Twitter et Pinterest. Quatrièmement, soyez visibles lors d’événement de charité. Les gens sont attentifs des bonnes actions pendant ce temps de l’année. Cinquièmement et dernièrement, créez une ambiance chaleureuse dans votre magasin. Diffusez une agréable odeur ou offrez un rafraîchissement. Vous pourriez être surpris des retombées. [CJ] www.canadianjeweller.com
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vitrine vaut
son pesant d’or PAR VÉRONIQUE DUBÉ
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L’ART DE LA VITRINE ATTRACTIVE
Dans sa définition la plus stricte, la vitrine est la partie du commerce, visible depuis la rue, qui donne un aperçu de la gamme des articles en vente. Toutefois, le plus souvent, sa fonction consiste aux passants, même en dehors des heures d’ouverture. Les vitrines sont un appel à la consommation, une invitation à succomber à l’envie de renouveau ou à la joie de faire plaisir. « La vitrine seule porte toute l’image du magasin », dit Danielle Ouellet, superviseure de la chaîne Doucet Latenderesse et responsable de la qualité de la présentation. « Elle compte certainement pour plus de 50 % du chiff re d’affaires. » Au premier regard, le client éventuel doit cerner les produits, être inspiré et avoir envie de franchir la porte. La vitrine attise sa curiosité, voire sa convoitise. Mais pour disposer d’une vitrine efficace, il faut un certain talent pour la mise en scène. À QUOI SERT UNE VITRINE?
On a rarement une seconde occasion de faire une bonne première impression. C’est pourquoi la décoration de vitrines est un art à maîtriser, surtout en dehors des grands centres où il n’y a pas abondance de stylistes sur qui compter. « Chez Doucet Latendresse, nous n’avons pas d’étalagiste, chaque directeur de succursale aménage sa vitrine », fait valoir Mme Ouellet. Privilégiez la simplicité et la légèreté, ne surchargez pas au risque d’une impression de confusion, les gens n’entreraient pas. Comme la vitrine doit séduire, il importe de lui trouver un thème et de grouper les produits de manière harmonieuse. Utilisez des couleurs, donnez du volume et du mouvement à votre vitrine pour qu’elle paraisse vivante. Le secret est de créer une oeuvre qui, en premier lieu, vous ferait rêver, vous aussi!
Le blanc est évidemment préférable à toute autre couleur parce qu’il permet de bien distinguer la forme et la taille du bijou, ainsi que sa finesse. Bien qu’il soit tentant d’y faire appel, il faut éviter le noir, et le bourgogne, par exemple. » Dans une bijouterie, des étalages aux couleurs sobres, classiques donnent un aspect sage, convivial et luxueux. Dans tous les cas, une vitrine ne doit pas rester statique, mais doit vivre avec les saisons et les évènements. « Nous renouvelons nos vitrines de 6 à 8 fois par année », dit Mme Ouellet. En particulier, on doit varier son image publique pour mieux exploiter chaque occasion associée à l’off re d’un cadeau : Noël, la Saint-Valentin, Pâques, la fête des Mères, etc. ÉCLAIRAGE
Les lumières doivent bien éclairer et faire briller les produits, sans éblouir le client. Il est nécessaire d’éclairer la nuit, car le passant aura le temps de repérer la marchandise et de revenir le lendemain. Doucet Latendresse a choisi d’installer un éclairage halogène, fi xe, au plafond pour un éclairage général, mais étudié pour mettre en valeur toute la marchandise en montre. Toutefois, à ce chapitre, les solutions sont nombreuses. PRÉSENTATION DES PRODUITS
Certains spécialistes disent qu’une présentation en mouvement attire plus l’attention. Madame Ouellet doute que cela soit approprié en bijouterie : « Voilà des années que je travaille dans ce domaine, jamais je n’ai vu d’étalages rotatifs, ni de vidéos. » Ces méthodes ne sont pas efficaces dans la vente de bijoux. Toutefois, une vitrine attrayante présente toujours des styles différents, des produits d’appel et des produits de base. PROPRETÉ
QUE MET-ON À LA VUE?
« Chez Doucet Latendresse, nous mettons souvent les nouveautés en valeur dans la vitrine », confie Danielle Ouellet. Mais il y a aussi des échantillons provenant de toute la collection. « Surtout, il est important que le client voie un prix affiché. Nous tenons à ce que le client sache qu’il des bijoux pour toutes les bourses ». Lorsque le prix n’est pas affiché, l’expérience montre qu’un client, entre, demande le prix et lorsque celui-ci lui paraît élevé, il tourne les talons sans demander s’il y a un article semblable à moindre coût. Les articles doivent être bien visibles et séparés les uns des autres pour séduire au maximum le passant. Les produits seront donc limités en nombre, car la surcharge crée la confusion. COULEURS
Elles participent au premier contact visuel fort et donnent sa touche originale à un commerce. « Il faut privilégier les couleurs pâles, dit Danielle Ouellet.
« La propreté est un point capital » de dire Danielle Ouellet. « L’hygiène doit être constante, parfaite, irréprochable. » La poussière ne se dépose pas facilement dans un milieu fermé comme une vitrine, pourtant, dès que l’on constate qu’une pellicule de saleté risque de nuire à la présentation, il faut épousseter ou passer l’aspirateur. C’est plus particulièrement le cas durant, par exemple, la période précédant Noël alors que les flocons de neige artificielle se détachent et tombent. Pour ce qui est des glaces de sa vitrine, Madame Ouellet les lave plusieurs fois par jour. « Je fais disparaître, les traces de doigts, de nez, de lèvres aussi. » Il n’est pas aisé de se lancer dans la décoration de vitrines de magasins, mais, selon Danielle Ouellet, le coup d’œil peut se développer. Les sources d’inspiration sont nombreuses : la télé, les magazines et Internet. Ou alors, on s’inscrit aux cours donnés dans certains cégeps et on devient un professionnel. [CJ] WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM
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également le prix total du bien ou du service ni le faire ressortir d’une façon plus évidente.
es bijouteries des centres commerciaux affichent parfois des rabais allant de 50 % à 80 %, et ce, tout au long de l’année. De plus, certaines offrent à leurs clients des plans de financement pour leurs achats ou annoncent des articles à prix réduit en quantités limitées. Bien que ces pratiques soient légales, les commerçants sont tenus de respecter certaines lois et leurs règlements. À cet effet, l’Office de la protection du consommateur est responsable de l’application de la Loi sur la protection du consommateur, où elle interdit, entre autres, les pratiques trompeuses.
[ARTICLE 225]
La publicité ne peut pas vendre n’importe quoi, n’importe comment. Les commerçants, tout comme les consommateurs, doivent être vigilants. Les principaux articles qui régissent la Loi sur la protection du consommateur à laquelle les détaillants sont assujettis vont bien au-delà de la politique d’exactitude des prix.
Aucun commerçant, fabricant ou publicitaire ne peut faussement, par quelque moyen que ce soit : a) invoquer une réduction de prix; b) indiquer le prix courant ou un autre prix de référence pour un bien ou un service; c) laisser croire que le prix d’un bien ou d’un service est avantageux.
[ARTICLE 219]
Aucun commerçant, fabricant ou publicitaire ne peut, par quelque moyen que ce soit, faire une représentation fausse ou trompeuse à un consommateur. Il s’agit de la pierre angulaire qui, probablement, structure l’ensemble des articles compris dans la loi. Le juriste Claude Masse en faisait d’ailleurs mention dans son ouvrage Loi sur la protection du consommateur — Analyse et commentaires : « Toutes les représentations faites au consommateur doivent être vraies ».
Si le commerçant propose au consommateur une option de versements périodiques pour lui permettre d’acquérir un bien, il a aussi l’obligation de mentionner le prix total dans son message publicitaire.
La raison de la vente doit être vraie. Un commerce ne peut déménager ou être la proie des flammes chaque année… De plus, il est interdit d’offrir une réduction sur un prix courant qu’on a gonflé pour l’occasion d’une vente. Le prix de détail régulier doit en tout temps être indiqué sur l’article en promotion. [ARTICLE 231]
[ARTICLE 223]
Aucun commerçant, fabricant ou publicitaire ne peut, par quelque moyen que ce soit, faire de la publicité concernant un bien ou un service qu’il possède en quantité insuffisante pour répondre à la demande du public, à moins de mentionner dans son message publicitaire qu’il ne dispose que d’une quantité limitée du bien ou du service et d’indiquer cette quantité.
Un commerçant doit indiquer clairement et lisiblement sur chaque bien offert en vente dans son établissement ou, dans le cas d’un bien emballé, sur son emballage, le prix de vente de ce bien, sous réserve de ce qui est prévu par règlement.
Cette pratique est parfois utilisée dans le but d’attirer la clientèle en magasin pour ensuite lui vendre un article à prix plus élevé. La loi exige toutefois que l’on précise la quantité du bien mentionné dans la publicité.
Ainsi, l’indication du prix sur chaque produit permet au consommateur de comparer les produits semblables et de faire un choix plus éclairé. Toutefois, l’article 91.1 du règlement prévoit une exception pour certaines catégories de biens qui sont exemptés de l’obligation d’étiquetage du prix. Il faut tout de même retenir ceci : bien que le commerçant ne soit pas obligé dans des cas spécifiques d’apposer une étiquette sur certains produits, il doit quand même en indiquer le prix à proximité.
Quelques recommandations…
[ARTICLE 224 b]
Comme dans tout autre magasin, le prix de détail régulier doit toujours être affiché sur le présentoir ou sur le bijou lui-même. Soyez transparents : informez les acheteurs sur les caractéristiques et les particularités du bijou, le procédé de fabrication, les garanties, le prix de détail ainsi que le prix une fois réduit. Vous pouvez aussi offrir à vos clients, dans le cas de la vente d’un bijou à diamants, un certificat d’évaluation reconnu par les compagnies d’assurances. Ces petites attentions sont de bons moyens pour tisser un lien de confiance avec votre clientèle. [CJ]
Aucun commerçant, fabricant ou publicitaire ne peut, par quelque moyen que ce soit sous réserve des articles 244 à 247, divulguer, dans un message publicitaire, le montant des paiements périodiques à faire pour l’acquisition d’un bien ou l’obtention d’un service sans divulguer
Source : Québec. Office de la protection du consommateur. 2012. Loi sur la protection du consommateur. En ligne. http://www2.publicationsduquebec. gouv.qc.ca/dynamicSearch/telecharge.php?type=2&file=/P_40_1/P40_1.html
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conference reGISTrATIon STArTS JAnuAry 16, 2013 www.snagmetalsmith.org
Society of north American Goldsmiths 42nd Annual conference Toronto, at the fairmont royal york Hotel presenters Diane Charbonneau Elaine Kim Jack Ogden Peter DiCristofaro Charles Lewton-Brain interview by Alan C. Elder Ryan Taylor + Panel on Ethics & Sustainability
rapid-Fire presentations established Arthur Hash Barbara Heinrich John Rais Michael Belmore emerging Amelia Toelke
exhibition Crawl 18 Karat Art Gallery of Ontario Shop OCAD University Design Exchange Ontario Crafts Council Gallery Gardiner Museum ...plus many more!
speCial events 3rd Annual Trunk Show Sale
Ken Vickerson + Panel on Craft Theory
Eric Petersen Erica Meier
Harbourfront Centre Happening: Exhibition in Motion, exhibitions + more!
Diamonds in Canada Session
Suzanne Carlsen
Pin Swap + Reception
Conference Introduction by Damian Skinner
Erin Wahed, in collaboration with Janis Kerman
SNAG’s Annual Student Juried Exhibition
In partnership with
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Un diamant avec le
carbone de vos cheveux Jaune
Oui, ce produit unique est maintenant disponible pour tous les bijoutiers. Augenstern fabrique des diamants en quatre couleurs composés uniquement du carbone provenant des cheveux de vos clients. Il suffit de dix grammes de cheveux, soit la grosseur d’une orange, pour avoir suffisamment de carbone pour produire un diamant unique et personnalisé. Les cheveux utilisés pour former une pierre peuvent provenir d’une seule ou de plusieurs personnes.
Or des Incas
Une pierre si jaune que le soleil en sera jaloux
Vert
Éveil du printemps
Aussi pur que la nature elle-même
Rouge
Passion
Symbole du romantisme et de l’intensité de votre amour
Bleu
Glacier
La pureté de l’océan combinée à l’éclat du ciel
Un couple de futurs mariés se présente à votre bijouterie. Madame est designer de mode et monsieur est architecte. Ils désirent un produit unique et surtout très distinctif pour souligner ce moment merveilleux que sera leur union. Qu’allez-vous leur off rir? Un diamant rouge Augenstern confectionné à partir de leurs cheveux. En combinant notre diamant avec l’une de vos créations, vous pourrez leur offrir un bijou exceptionnel et unique au monde.
Éric Brideau, président de Diamants Augenstern Canada, avec le diamant créé à partir des cheveux de la Miss Russie 2005, Victoria Lopyreva.
Une grand-maman exprime à son conjoint le souhait de recevoir un bijou unique pour son 50 e anniversaire de mariage. Que conseillerez-vous à monsieur de lui off rir, elle qui a déjà tout? Un diamant Augenstern fabriqué bien sûr avec les cheveux de tous les enfants et petits-enfants. Une seule pierre précieuse qui contiendra le carbone des cheveux de chacun des membres de sa descendance. Aucune autre pierre n’aura autant de valeur sentimentale aux yeux de madame que son diamant Augenstern. Le diamant est fabriqué en quatre étapes : la carbonisation, la graphitisation, la formation du diamant brut et la taille. Le client choisit la couleur qu’il désire ainsi que le poids en carats et la forme. L’intensité de la couleur dans la pierre sera déterminée par la nature durant la fabrication. C’est pour cette raison que le diamant Augenstern est si unique.
Pour plus d’information, visitez le site Web d’Augenstern :
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New Collection Fall 2012 This collection is for every Miss Flower on Earth. Nature’s beauty in the flower has been captured in a unique silver jewelry collection in five sparkling symbolic colors. Designed primarily for girls (8-12+), this collection will surely charm the older ones as well. For BFLY, this new collection is a step forward in our desire to inspire youth. Be Natural, be yourself and follow your inspiration...
JCK Toronto Show, booth #1002 WCJE, booth #805-807 Expo Prestige, booth #410 Bfly.ca 3291 chemin Royal . QuĂŠbec . Canada . G1E 1V8 418.660.2909 . 1.888.660.3292 Patent Pending
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BUILD YOUR FUTURE CLIENTELE Unique Birthstone Collection for babies and young girls with superior quality products that are durable, attractive and safe. Lifetime warranty on gold jewels.
JCK Toronto, booth # 1002 WCJE, booth # 805-807 Expo Prestige, booth # 410 Bfly.ca 3291 chemin Royal . Québec . QC . Canada . G1E 1V8 418.660.2909 . 1.888.660.3292 USA Patent 6158243 . CA Patent 2206353
For details, write #125 on Free Info Page, page 168
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excellenceindesignfeature
the
HONOURING art of jewellery design BY Jennifer Hopf • photography by babar khan
A
s the only competition of its kind in Canada, the Excellence in Design awards competition provides a forum for Canadian jewellery designers to express themselves and receive recognition for their innovative creations and exceptional craftsmanship. The awards were presented by Canadian Jeweller magazine and coordinated by Norma Meneguzzi Pall, manager of the Excellence in Design awards, the competition comprised 14 finalists across five categories, chosen by a panel of esteemed industry professionals. The judges included Paul McFarlane, CHANEL Canada’s watch and fine jewellery field director; Andrea Hopson, vice president, Canada for Tiffany & Co.; award-winning designer Reena Ahluwalia; Richard Booth of Richard Booth Fine Jewellery, and Greg Merrall, Georgian College’s jewellery & metal arts coordinator. “Part of the beauty of fine jewellery is the attention to detail that goes into every piece. So it’s not just about how beautiful or how creative the design may be, it’s also how it’s been assembled and the attention to detail,” says Spall about what the judges look for when choosing finalists. “They’re always looking for new designs, new approaches. It’s always the combination of that creativity factor as well as the workmanship factor.” The second stage of the judging process took place at the JCK Show in Toronto, where attending delegates were encouraged to vote on the designs based on the criteria of creativity, originality, and quality. The winners from each of the five categories: diamonds, Canadian diamonds, pearls, platinum, and coloured gemstones – were announced November 10 at the JVC Jewellers’ Ball in Toronto.
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The winner in this category was David Abugov of Jewels To Die For, from Halifax, Nova Scotia. The ring, which features 220 brilliant-cut diamonds equaling 2.26cts set in 18k white gold, is described as a truly exquisite, sculptural piece.
WINNER
J. Oscar Izquierdo of Oscar’s Jewellery and Design Inc., from Calgary, AB
Richard DoBos of Dian Creations from Vancouver, BC
diamonds WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM
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Susan Kun of Susan Kun Jewellery Design out of Canmore, Alberta, won this category with her perfectly polished engagement ring design. It showcases a 0.73ct Canadian diamond suspended between two 19k white gold shanks and accented by seven additional diamonds totalling 0.19cts. “I really like simple and feminine designs,” says Kun. “That seems very popular with my clients. They really appreciate the soft shapes. It’s kind of natural-looking.”
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The graceful and elegant earrings, submitted by Toronto’s Michael daCosta of Fortunes Fine Jewellery, took first place for this category. The pair features two white South Sea Alfredo Alvarez of Alvarez Designs, from Toronto, ON
pearls that dangle from an elaborate diamond setting “There has to be some precision because not only do you have to make one, you have to make two. You have to be balanced. Everything has to be matching,” Spall says of the intricate details of the earrings. “It’s a complex design that has been executed to perfection.”
pearls
Richard DoBos of Dian Creations, from Vancouver, BC
WINNER
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Rachel Tucker of Platinum Unlimited Inc. in Toronto
Mark Katzeff of Mark Katzeff Designer/ Goldsmith Inc., from Edmonton, AB
designed the stunning statement ring that won this category. A 31.61ct green amethyst is perched atop a platinum setting crowned by a high-arched bridge of 1.40ctw diamonds. Spall feels the unusual and extravagant piece exemplified and showcased platinum with the precision and thought necessary when working with such a difficult metal. Tucker drew her inspiration from Hollywood royalty, namely Elizabeth Taylor, with a desire to create something wild, fun and audacious.
Socratis Reppas of Marquis Jewellery, from Toronto, ON
platinum
WINNER
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coloured gemstones WINNER
Perry Serron of Brinkhaus Jewellers, from Vancouver, BC
Iouri Jiliaev of Jiliaev Jewellery Collection, from Vacouver, BC
Pamela Coulston of Diseqno Fine Jewellery, from Ottawa, ON
The winner of this popular category that allows for unique and novel designs, was a dramatic statement ring submitted by Dino Giannetti of 18 Karat, Toronto. An elongated 11.36ct lapidocrosite quartz in an array of colours from dark reddish-brown to bright pink and ruby red is showcased atop a slotted, double-gallery 18k white and rose gold shank. Forty-six round brilliant-cut diamonds totalling
Across the board, all finalists’ entries were recognized for their fluid, precise designs and perfect execution. Many of the pieces were also hand-assembled, which Spall describes as a lost art. “These are true artisans,” she says. “Their pieces reflect that.”
0.25cts accent the stone. Spall says the judges were probably attracted to the
The annual competition sets the standard for designers, and they seem to appreciate the opportunity to have their work recognized.
difficulty and ingenuity of the design. “When things are complex, they’re a little more difficult to execute. This particular design they felt truly made a statement.”
“I couldn’t have picked a better dream job,” says Rachel Tucker. “You get to be creative and work with beautiful things...you’re in the business of making people extraordinarily happy. I still can’t believe that I get to do this every day.” [CJ] WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM
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Where
Vampires and
Climate Change Meet:
Spring Teen Jewellery Trends
BY NICOLE FOTHERINGHAM
A collection of hand-crafted gold, diamond and natural stone bead bracelets by Anne Sportun Fine Jewellery
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Your Search Is Over
EXPO NEW YORK MARCH 10-12, 2013 • HILTON NEW YORK
“Expo creates a great community atmosphere for people who do what I like to do, make jewelry!” —custom jeweler Tom McLaughlin, one of the thousands of buyers who find the latest jewelry-making tools, supplies, and services at MJSA Expo New York, plus the know-how to use them well. PLAN TO ATTEND BY REGISTERING FOR FREE AT WWW.MJSA.ORG
M J S A : P R O F E S S I O N A L E X C E L L E N C E I N J E W E L R Y M A K I N G A N D D E S I G N 1 - 8 0 0 - 4 4 4 - M J S A • I N F O @ M J S A . O R G • W W W . M J S A . O R G
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nvironmental issues have had a profound influence on the psyche of today’s youth. Having grown up with climate change and dwindling natural resources, teens are imminently aware of the effect they have on their environment. Consequently, environmental responsibility prevails in all aspects of modern society and fosters a desire for sustainability. Jewellery design has embraced this trend and collections created from recycled and natural materials are popular while organic leaf and flower motifs take center stage.
Flower earrings created from recycled glass from Made You Look
Leaf and flower motifs
Erin Weir, co-founder and buyer for Violette Boutique, discusses some of their designer Leah Alexandra’s environmental offerings: “As far as the natural trend goes, one of our bestselling lines right now is We Dream in Colour. The designer makes beautiful oxidized copper earrings, necklaces and bracelets in a variety of different leaves and other organic shapes. Gold Leaf headbands by Eddera are also very popular and a beautiful and glamorous way of approaching the natural trend.” Sarah Dougall from Made you Look supports the organic and recycling trends: “Our accessory designers are pushing the limits and turning almost anything into jewellery. Look for creations made out of fabric, clay, feathers, sticks, stones, bottle caps, tin cans, film, paper, Lego and much more.” One of the store’s hot new items are these flower earrings created from recycled glass. Is that a party on your arm?
A collection of bracelets in tanzanite, blue jade, white agate and sapphire by Leah Alexandra, at Violette Boutique
The bracelet is back and the new trend is to group a bunch of matching bracelets in what is called an ‘arm party.’ Here bright colours and natural materials like crystals, freshwater pearls and wood combine to create a fun look. Says Weir: “One of the other big trends at Violette is the arm party which is basically stacking up a bunch of bracelets on one wrist. The key is to have a multitude of colours, textures and styles of bracelets. One of our favourite arm-party designers is Leah Alexandra Designs, specifically the Social Bracelet or the Erin Bangle. Sisco & Berluti bracelets are also perfect for an arm party!” Anne Sportun’s wrap bracelets, inspired by Hindu prayer tokens, are perfect for the arm party. “‘Kalava’ is a sacred Hindu thread—also called ‘mauli’, in Hindi,” explains Sportun. This thin thread is tied onto the wrist of an individual by a priest after a Hindu prayer ceremony is completed. “Sometimes the sacred threads containing small yellow parts in between the red string itself, and are worn as a sentiment of faith and to ward off evil,” says Sportun. Inspired by this ritual, Anne created her wrap bracelets to inspire positive and protective energy for the wearer. Bfly loves the natural carefree images of youth and has created the Miss Flower range for younger girls: “This collection is for every Miss Flower on earth. Nature’s beauty in the flower has been captured in a unique silver
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This holiday season enhance your fashion selection with the styles you want at the price points you need. Offered in a variety of precious metals and designs ranging from classic to contemporary, you will add inventory that turns heads as quickly as it drives revenue. For a wealth of ideas and solutions, call our Toronto Sales Center at 866-815-5511 or visit stuller.com/holiday. That’s the beauty of it all.
The DTC logo is a trademark used under license from DTC.
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Black Swarovski crystal earrings from Christian Serratos
jewellery collection in five sparkling symbolic colours; purple, white, blue, rose and fuchsia. Designed primarily for girls (8-12+), this collection will surely charm the older ones as well. For Bfly, this new collection is a step forward in our desire to inspire youth.” Vampires and Werewolves
The Twilight saga: It’s more than just a series of best-selling books, or a collection of blockbuster movies. Twilight is a phenomenon of epic proportions that has permeated the very fabric of teenage life. The Romeo and Juliet romance between Bella Swan and 104-year-old vampire Edward Cullen has captured hearts and minds. It’s no wonder then that fashion and jewellery design has been influenced by the veritable tour-de-force of vampires and werewolves. Twilight-inspired jewellery design is distinctly eighteenth-century chic with dramatic flair. Chandelier earrings and necklaces and large chunky rings with black crystals and diamonds encapsulate the mood. Jewellery from the movie, including charm bracelets and big rings, are all hot fashion items for spring. Anne Sportun is having fun with charm bracelets like the one heroine Bella Swan wears in the movie: “Complementing the collection is a dynamic array of earrings and necklaces, as well as a charm collection; small tokens to be collected and treasured. This collection evokes a fun and carefree spirit while allowing the wearer to choose something to reflect upon.” Christian Serratos is best known for her role as Angela Weber in the Twilight series, but she is also an accomplished jewellery designer. Serratos follows in the footsteps of designer mom Alicia: “I wanted to follow in her footsteps since I was a kid,” she said at the launch of her new Twilight-inspired jewellery line. The collection features black Swarovski crystal chandelier earrings and crystal necklaces.
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Victorian black pendant necklace from Made You Look
Made you Look boutique has many Victorian-themed pieces which add an elegant touch of drama. Owner Sarah Dougall proudly touts the jewellery for being “handmade, unique and special.” A Victorian black pendant necklace by artist Zsolt Szekely combines black and crystal in a thick, chunky piece that is sure to turn heads. Szkely is an artisan from Transylvania and all of his signature pieces carry with them the flavour of the old country. Right-hand Rings
While romance is nice, modern ladies aren’t waiting for an Edwardian vampire to buy their baubles, they’re just putting a ring on it themselves. The right-hand ring trend sees women investing in their own signature pieces. Right-hand rings are inspired by Twilight’s heroines with dark stone and diamond combinations in large, chunky designs. From Anne Sportun: “Our customers still love to purchase right-hand rings for themselves. They always tell me how fabulous they feel trying on our rings and because of this we call these rings the ‘I Am Fabulous’ righthand rings. These are contemporary diamond rings (they don’t look like a present from your aunt). The rings feature large black rose-cut diamonds surrounded by a halo of white diamonds that are funky and yet very fashion-forward (fabulous, right?).” Jewellery made from natural materials such as wood, crystals and freshwater pearls keeps us connected to the natural world. Here, sustainably harvested items carry added appeal. Twilight-inspired jewellery will also play a large role in shaping design this season. Moody black hues are offset with diamonds and crystals in feminine Victorian designs. And lastly bracelets in bunches give young girls the chance to wear all their favourite pieces at once. [CJ]
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Canadian Jeweller wants to know How’s your store doing?
INDU SURVSTRY EY
To help Canadian Jeweller provide you with editorial that’s completely relevant to your business, we’d like to get some insight from you about how your store is doing. The jewellery industry in Canada is stronger when we work together and share information. That’s why it’s important for us to understand your needs and interests. In every issue of Canadian Jeweller, we’ll be surveying you to discover information that will enable us to provide you with the most topical, useful articles. We’ll publish all the results in the February 2013 issue. 1. How were sales at your store from 2010 to 2011? Up by 5% Up by 15% Up by 20% Up more than 20% Flat Down 5% Down 15% Down 20% Down more than 20% 4. What price point items have increased? Less than $500 $500 to $1,500 $1,500 to $3,000 $3,000 to $5,000 $5,000 to $10,000 More than $10,000
2. How were sales at your store in Nov./ Dec. 2011 compared with Nov./Dec. 2010? Up by 5% Up by 15% Up by 20% Up more than 20% Flat Down 5% Down 15% Down 20% Down more than 20%
3. In Nov./Dec. 2011, how were your price points compared to Nov./Dec 2010? Up by 5% Up by 15% Up by 20% Up more than 20% Flat Down 5% Down 15% Down 20% Down more than 20%
5. Which of the following have impacted your margins? Online stores Competitor(s)’ store(s) Secondhand market
6. List your top suppliers in the following categories: Watches:
Fill in the following and mail or fax back: Name (please print):
Rings:
Address: Store name:
Bracelets:
City: Province: Postal code:
Necklaces:
Telephone: Fax:
Charms:
Email: Number of stores:
Engagement rings:
Cufflinks:
Store Size: Under 1,000 sq. ft 3,000-5,000 sq. ft
1,000-3,000 sq. ft over 5,000 sq. ft
Mailing Address: Children’s jewellery:
Canadian Jeweller magazine 60 Bloor St., West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON., M4W 3B8
Fax Number: 416-703-6392
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productfocus
Vintage
Forever
BY MARIELLE DE SPA, G.G.
Model we Diamo aring a Rare Smoky nd Cuff Q b y Su z anne B uar tz and elper ra n
Designe
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Trifari ‘Alfred Philippe’ Gold Amethyst and Blue Enamel Triple Bell Flowers with Pendant Necklace from N&N Vintage Costume Jewelry
Mu seum
presenta
tion of
vintage
jeweller
y
Today’s emerging jewellery trends prove that vintage never goes out of style. Some of the most refined pieces on the market continue to pay homage to the timeless elegance of vintage jewellery. Nostalgic glamour seems to be the current trend these days, as evidenced by the most recent creations by leading fine jewellery designers. Big, colourful and opulent stones are evocative of the times when bold individuality was celebrated. Jill Burgum, consignment director of jewellery, gemstones & timepieces for Heritage Auction Galleries, says that jewellery follows fashion trends, even when looking at vintage and estate pieces. “Right now 1970s fashions are hot — so is yellow gold in textured forms,” she explains. Vintage styles are decisively in at multiple levels, however this particular market is not always accurately defined. “Vintage” is a widely used term in the jewellery sphere, and yet seems to cover various categories: antique, period, estate, retro and second-hand. While the trend isn’t for everyone, designers and retailers are embracing it, showcasing pieces reminiscent of bygone eras. This is evident in David Webb’s new precious jewels collection, made of colourful jade, emerald, coral and amethysts, or Hemmerle’s seventiesinspired chunky turquoise pendants.
Graff Diamonds proudly showcases a spectacular cascade of magnificent diamonds, as breathtaking as those once delightfully worn by Marie Antoinette of France. Verdura advertises Fulco’s original 1930s Maltese cross cuffs designed for Coco Chanel next to its contemporary version – as impressive, symbolic and timeless as its predecessor. Interestingly enough, the worlds of vintage and antique and contemporary are often closely intertwined. The 26th Biennale des Antiquaires recently held at the Grand Palais in Paris, organized by the National Antique Dealers’ organization, hosted a carefully selected group of prestigious jewellery firms including Cartier, Harry Winston and Van Cleef & Arpels. Each brand showcased collections featuring their most exceptional pieces, and their museum value amongst other treasured antiques. “The work of these jewellers is extraordinary, they present incredible stones, magical settings, the result of a unique expertise,” explained Christian Deydier, host of the Biennale. Catherine Baba, a Parisienne designer by way of Australia, also recently WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM
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From left to right: Miriam Haskell vintage-inspired pearl jewellery, Trifari ‘Alfred Philippe’ Pave and Ruby ‘Duck’ Clip Earrings from N&N Vintage Costume Jewelry, Miriam Haskell vintage-inspired earrings, sketch of the Wallis Simpson’s Bib necklace by Cartier and Marcel Boucher brooch
created a vintage jewellery collection for Maison Gripoix, the legendary Parisian jewellery house founded in 1868. A daring, neo-romantic retro salute to period designs, the collection included oriental, mythological, Greek and roman revival references. On the other side of the Atlantic, the 2012 Miami Beach Antique Jewelry & Watch Show featured an array of dazzling retro designs. At the forefront, elaborate Buccellati craftsmanship caught collectors’ attentions. The most popular vintage periods featured 50s, 60s and 70s styles and large statement pieces. As for the classics, pearls mixed with diamonds or set as beautiful intricate necklaces, rings, and long dangling ear pendants dominated. It is also interesting to note that remarkable vintage jewellery has not exclusively been produced by legendary maisons such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Tiffany or Boivin. However, reputable costume jewellery designers of the last century have created timeless pieces in homage to these sought-after names. Costume jewellery was once considered as an imposturous version of authentic jewellery, it has gradually gained in popularity and recognition from most respected vintage jewellery collectors. Certain lines of costume jewellery were prestigious even when first created, due to the use of Swarovski crystals, and metals plated in high-quality silver and gold.
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The most outstanding vintage costume jewellery designers include legends such as Trifari, Marcel Boucher, Miriam Haskell, Elsa Schiaparelli, Coppola e Toppo, Kenneth Jay Lane and even Coco Chanel. Such pieces have reached record-breaking estimates surpassing their authentic counterparts, both due to their historical interest and their aesthetical value and craftsmanship. This success has been apparent through more recent auction sales at Bonham’s, DuMouchelles and Doyle. Michael Bruno, founder of 1stdibs.com, the premier vintage fashion, antiques, decoration and jewellery portal asserts that this market is an expanding one, and could very well be profitable for retailers: “We launched the antique and fine jewellery category five years ago and have seen an incredible growth from both consumer response and with the number of dealers,” he says. Bruno reveals that their client base has increased by “almost 80 per cent from late 2011 to October 2012. Average sales are around US $20,000.” Last year, his website saw more than US $500 million in sales with more than 7,000 items reported sold by dealers each month. When embracing the vintage trend, how can retailers actually recognize which pieces will be embraced (and loved for years afterward) over those that are more disposable?
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The answer is provenance, or in other words a piece that owns a soul, and does have a story to tell. In this category, the decisive factor is not so much about the intrinsic value of the piece but really about what in appraising terms refers to the apposite value, or value-making elements. Appositve value includes the gems and metal a piece was assembled with, its craftsmanship (stone setting, enameling, manufacturing techniques), any origin or historical significance, but above all, its rarity as well as the message it conveys. Hector Cantù, editorial director of Heritage Auction Galleries explains that gold vintage jewellery is currently in-demand, “as the gold market continues its strong performance…even flirting with the $1,000-per-ounce mark…more collectors began turning to vintage jewelry to add a unique touch to their wardrobes.” Needless to say the auction block also confirms this trend through its numerous iconic collector venues: On November 12th, Christie’s Geneva set the world auction record with the sale of the famed Archduke Joseph Diamond, fetching a staggering $21.5 million USD, from an original estimate of $15 million. How can the quest for esthetic opulence be explained in such perilous economic times? Quite possibly, it’s a sense of nostalgia, as consumers long
for acquisitions that hearken back to more comfortable, stable times. Or perhaps it is the hope that, in spite of a financial recession, we all are entitled to the pursuit of excellence. [CJ] Marielle de Spa is a jewellery consultant and opinion expert based in Toronto, Canada. A GIA Graduate Gemologist, she specializes in appraising, sourcing and promoting collection jewellery for private local and international clients. (For more information visit: www.marielledespa.com)
XXX JEWELLERY ADVERTISERS IN THIS ISSUE Atlantic Engraving 514.845.8257 www.atlanticengraving.com
Lega Jewellery 514.845.0066 www.legajeweller.com
Ready Mounts 416.366.4046 www.readymounts.com
Best Bargains 413.214.2582 www.bbjw.com
Lili Jewelry 1-877-LILI-USA www.lilijewelry.com
Rembrandt Charms 800.387.5238 www.rembrandtcharms.ca
Beverly Hills Jewellers 905.737.3069 www.beverlyhillsjewellers.ca
MCD Pearls 416.368.2690 www.mcdpearls.com
Stuller 800.877.7777 www.stuller.com
Christopher Designs 800-955-0970 www.christopherdesigns.com
Mirage 877.BY MIRAGE www.miragecreations.com
Jeffrey Ross Jewellery & Dimples 905.852.2050 www.jeffreyrossjewellery.com
PAJ/Elle 905.752.2080 www.ellejewelry.com
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designerprofile | eddielevian xxxxxx
EDDIE LE VIAN brings new flavour to family empire By Bonnie Siegler
F
or over 500 years, the Le Vian name has been synonymous with crafting some of the world’s most exquisite jewellery, however, present-day CEO Eddie Le Vian has breathed new life into the centuries-old family dynasty.
Known for their stunning, sometimes whimsical, eye-catching creations, Le Vian reveals that the impetus behind the creation of chocolate diamonds was an advertising salesman who would visit regularly and bring chocolate on every visit. “He was so passionate about it…through him I understood the passion that most people have for chocolate and how it is related to sexuality.” “As we looked for ways to brand the brown diamonds, it became clear that the passion for chocolate is key.” Since then, the married father of two has integrated this marketing approach into what has become the company trademark. Along the way, Blackberry Diamonds, Cotton Candy Amethysts, Vanilla Diamonds, Strawberry Gold and Parisian Honeycomb have joined the Le Vian lexicon. “These brands have become part of our edible brands of gems and jewellery, each of which has particular meaning,” Le Vian describes how each “edible” material is meticulously matched with a design. “Chocolate Diamonds work best when combined with rich colours, like Strawberry Gold or with coloured gems such as the Cotton Candy Amethyst.” His innovation and imagination have rejuvenated not only his brand, but his favourite gemstones, as well.
Neon Blue Paraiba Tourmaline ring from Le Vian Couture Collection, $50,097
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Le Vian’s continuous ability to re-invent the brand, while staying ahead of the trends, has given the company longevity, setting it apart from the alternative mass-market fine jewellery houses. With his combined background in business and gemmology, Eddie Le Vian has been happy to be the key motivator behind the company’s designs. While his campaign to bring Le Vian into the jewellery world as a frontrunner began with the idea of a tangible material such as chocolate, Eddie Le Vian also incorporated his business sense
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eddielevian xxxxxx | designerprofile
into the product, to make it an exclusive commodity. He received a business degree from Arizona State University, and earned diamond grading and gemmology certifications through the GIA. He honed his skills during a year of on-the-job training, first as a stonecutter and then as a jewellery salesman, finally becoming a designer. Le Vian says he never lost sight of the future and a new consumer marketing direction. “After graduating from ASU, I realized that jewellery was being sold generically unlike other industries and as such, I started a branded division within the family’s centuries old business.” With the unique edible titles, Le Vian has helped bring the variety and company into the twenty-first century. No longer is the consumer purchasing a brown diamond; they are now purchasing a limited licensed piece. “The integration of our branding and product development is designed to continue to tell branches of the same story and resonates well with the consumer.”
“Originality is the key. Our branding and celebrity placement, as well as our global view of the production, add a high value to the designs that set them apart. And our lifetime certification and warranty and trade privileges are unheard of at our level.”
Le Vian is riding high on the sweetness of success, but the first signs of the company’s innovative streak was evident in the 1950s when the late Abdulrahim Le Vian emigrated from Persia to the United States and set up shop in New York City. He revived the lost art of “invisible setting – a special technique that cuts grooves underneath the gems that slide into railroad tracks. The tightening of the tracks is done from below and is invisible,” explains Eddie Le Vian.
For 2013, Le Vian predicts that, “Neon and candy colours such as tangerine and yellow” will be popular, as well as “gladiator-fashion, criss-crossing dimensional straps and chocolate diamond engagement rings.”
There are currently over 200 locations in Canada carrying Le Vian, and that number is anticipated to increase to 300 by next year. Their customers run the gamut, from customers who appreciate the sparkle and dash of a Le Vian creation, to the Hollywood elite who seek a piece to accentuate their star power. Actresses like Kerry Washington, Angie Harmon and Emily Blunt were all recently spotted accessorizing with pieces from Le Vian’s 14k Strawberry Gold collection – adorned with a variety of Vanilla and Chocolate diamonds.
“We love what we do and that motivates us to keep the Le Vian brand and image alive and well throughout the world. Building beautiful, versatile jewellery that is kept in families for generations with our name signed inside is our key to immortality.” [CJ]
“We also recently patented Parisian Honeycomb, a gemstone cut that we developed using a combination of old-time practices with our own modern techniques to create a look that has never been done before.” In Le Vian’s eyes, these innovations have helped set Le Vian apart from other jewellery brands.
Ocean Wave Gladiator ring from Le Vian Chocolatier Collection, $5,497
Vanilla and Blackberry Diamond ring from Le Vian, $8,477
www.canadianjeweller.com
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companyprofile | jewelersmutualinsurance
A N OU NCE OF PR E V E N T ION JMI’S PATRICK DRUMMOND SAYS EDUCATION AND VIGILANCE ARE KEY TO PROFESSIONAL AND PERSONAL SAFETY By Stephen Scehlling
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According to the largest insurer of jeweller y retailers in Nor th A mer ica , losses are on the r ise in Canada . “Jewellery crime is a real problem in Canada. If I had a message for the Canadian market it would be, ‘It can happen to you too,’” says Patrick Drummond, Vice President of Sales and Marketing for Jewelers Mutual Insurance. Founded 100 years ago by a group of Wisconsin jewellers who couldn’t obtain fire insurance for their stores, Jewelers Mutual Insurance is the only company in North America exclusively dedicated to insuring the jewellery industry. The company underwrites small and chain retailers, wholesalers, manufacturers, designers and, more recently, individual jewellery owners under its Perfect Circle program, which now accounts for 40 per cent of its business. It’s a number that’s growing, much like Canadian jewellery crime stats.
“Criminals will look for people carrying bags in and out of stores and they will follow them,” he says. “They look for the opportunities to rob them. It’s usually when they’re getting in and out of their car, or have stopped someplace. We’ve had criminals stopped right outside the jewellery store. We’ve seen car sabotage where the tire goes flat and next thing you know, a van will pull up and the stranded motorist is robbed. The schemes can be very sophisticated with multiple people following a salesperson’s vehicle.”
“The nature of crime is that it does evolve,” Drummond says, drawing a contrast between loss rates in the United States and Canada. South of the border, off-premises jewellery crime has declined thanks to fewer traveling salespeople in a sluggish economy. Meanwhile in Canada, off-premises crime rates have risen in the past few years. And not only in the big cities, according to Drummond, but in smaller communities as well.
To combat this growing problem, Jewelers Mutual has begun to offer a series of interactive, online tutorials on their website (www.jewelersmutual.com) with titles such as Selling with Security and The Dangers of Traveling on the Road that highlight tips on personal and professional safety measures jewellers and salespeople can employ to avoid becoming a target. Jewelers Mutual also works closely with JVC. In fact, Jewelers Mutual purchases JVC memberships for all its Canadian constituents, granting them access to the national watchdog and crime prevention association’s manual.
“Almost all crime in the jewellery industry is some level of organized crime,” Drummond says. “Whether it’s foreign or localized gangs preying on the industry, we rarely see crimes of opportunity similar to the way someone would go into a convenience store and rob it. These criminals are professional. They plan ahead.”
“Traveling salespeople should be aware and take precautions,” Drummond advises. “Map out and take alternative routes; don’t just travel from point A to B. Be on the lookout for suspicious people. Plan routes so you can circle back and see if anyone is following.”
Even something seemingly as random as a smash-and-grab (where criminals rush a store and smash showcases making off with the jewellery inside) is the product of meticulous planning, according to Drummond. “Believe me, they case the store,” he says. “They go into a store looking for weak spots in security that they can exploit days and maybe weeks before a robbery.”
Drummond also cautions retailers about off-premises theft. “It’s not just about greeting every customer to let them know you’ve seen them, or following proper opening and closing procedures. Occasionally, a retailer might be called upon to leave the store with jewellery. You need to have a plan, even if you’re just walking a few blocks to the post office.”
While incidents of armed robbery, burglary, and smash-and-grabs have also increased in recent years, Drummond says that off-premises losses are more concerning.
“We’ve been at this for 100 years,” Drummond says. “We’ve seen just about every trick in the book when it comes to theft and loss, and the best way to combat them is with education and vigilance.” [CJ]
www.canadianjeweller.com
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jvcfeature
LOSS PREVENTION
PROCEDURES
It is that time of year when jewellery businesses are gearing up for the busiest and, hopefully, most profitable fourth quarter. Hard work, business expertise and a great selling staff mean little if sound loss prevention measures haven’t been implemented. John Lamont, JVC’s Director of Loss Prevention, discusses the importance and necessity of a solid loss prevention strategy and procedures. Good advice from someone who knows. - Phyllis Richard, Executive Director, JVC
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rimes against jewellers have increased in 2012 over the previous year. Overall profits are on the decline; while criminals make 100 per cent profit on their illegal gains, jewellers earn 25 to 50 cents on the dollar.
Any member of the jewellery industry is susceptible to crime – and not just in major cities. Small business owners are targets, particularly while in transit or at restaurants; the number of incidents perpetrated against travelling salespeople is also on the rise.
This is the time of year when the industry does most of its business. To combat theft and other crime, business owners at all levels must employ loss-prevention tactics to limit theft and protect their hard-earned profits.
All members of the industry are at risk of: → Armed robberies → Break and enters → Diamond switches → Distraction thefts (especially travelling sales people) → Fraud → Shipping losses → Smash-and-grabs → And many other types of theft
Internal theft is a major cause of inventory loss, particularly during the holidays, when all business owners hire seasonal employees. The increase in sales and customer traffic mean that owners and managers of business are busy and are unable to keep an eye on employees at all times. The first step in preventing employee theft starts with human resources. Know the history of current and potential employees. The best way to deter theft is not to hire dishonest people. It may sound simple, but it is key. Pay attention and adhere to hiring procedures at all times. Most loss prevention experts recommend that employers run background checks for criminal records and credit reports, as well as check references with previous employers. Most thieves have stolen from their last four employers prior to discovery; therefore, it is important to detect anything questionable as early as possible. Companies need to develop an effective pre-employment screening process. If time is an issue, or if an employer does not have the manpower to execute this task, they can outsource background checks to a company that specializes in this kind of service.
Jewellers Vigilance Canada’s 2012 Loss Prevention Training Manual contains valuable insight on how members of the industry can help protect themselves against crime. In the manual, JVC presents security recommendations as a framework or starting point for the jewellery retailer, manufacturer or repair house to examine security procedures. However, these rules comprise one essential provision, which should be called Rule Number One: every jeweller needs insurance protection. If you can’t afford insurance, you can’t afford to be a jeweller, plain and simple. There are still huge costs associated with crime: lost selling time, the time it takes to adjust the loss, deductible costs, damage to the morale of the jeweller and staff, as well as doubts created in the minds of customers as to their safety while on the premises, or the professionalism and experience of a jewellery firm.
Case in point
A male subject walked into a small jewellery manufacturer and identified himself only as “David.” He told the owner he was a diamond setter and was looking for work. David was very personable and convinced the owner to let him work on a trial basis for a few hours that day. Without any background checks or even obtaining any further personal information about David, the owner hired him on the spot and put him to work. That afternoon, the owner and other staff members left for lunch leaving David to work on his project. Upon their return, they learned that David was gone – along with $200,000 in diamonds. Good policies and procedures can be one of the most effective methods of protecting against external theft, however, care must be taken to ensure the policies and procedures are routinely followed.
During the course of a 30- or 40-year jewellery business, the chances of having a significant loss are high. In just one minute, a lifetime of work can be taken away. In the United States, Jewelers Mutual Insurance (JMI) and Jewelers Security Alliance (JSA) state that crime against jewellers is so rampant, they must ensure they have proper insurance coverage to avoid an impoverished retirement or bankruptcy or closing due to crime. Having adequate insurance protection underlies all loss prevention and security recommendations across all industry associations. A true jewellery business professional will not overlook security as part of his or her business plan. If you are selling with professionalism you will be selling with security. [CJ] John Lamont, Director of Loss Prevention, JVC
www.canadianjeweller.com
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showcase A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
CMYK
A M O D E R N
© 2011 Malo, Inc. Made in Canada.
C L A S S I C
27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6 T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621 www.midasjewelryinc.ca • Email: info@midasjewelryinc.ca
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For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com. For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 or advertise e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com. For more informationext. on 6117 how to in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please cont
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lastword
Into the Wild Le Vian’s Into the Wild peacock watch is a bold item that’s sure to turn heads. The standout timepiece features a dazzling white diamond and sapphire peacock that illuminates the entire watch face with its brilliance. With only 500 pieces being created, this limited-edition sparkler retails at $11,495.
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