V venezia magazine 6 (english version)

V ye a r 2 , i s s u e 6 M a rch Ap ri l 2 0 1 4

magazin en ez i a e ve n ts e xh i b i ti o n s i ti n e ra ri e s

Venice's Sestieri

Castello

Traditional rowing boats Take a ssanndoollo ride Secret Venice

Venice backstage Family-friendly Venice

Castello with your kids D a n i e l e R i c a p i to

Venice Lagoon islands

San Francesco del Deserto oasis of peace and meditation G i org i o B om b i e ri

G i org i o B om b i e ri

G i org i o B om b i e ri

W i ki m e d i a C o m m o n s

04

08

Exhibitions More than 30 art exhibitions not to miss

See you in Venice Find out what's on in Venice

10

SUMMARY

Family Venice Discover Castello with your kids

Lagoon Islands San Francesco del Deserto

Secret Venice Venice backstage

14

16 Stones of Venice Venetian traditions & curiosities

22

04 08

10 14 16 22

E x h i b i t i o n s i n Ve n i c e

Fiabe dal mondo

www.festivaldelmare.com

from 15th march to 18th may − Fondazione

I meriti delle donne.

Mostra di manoscritti

Querini Stampalia

from 21st february to 23rd april − Centro www.candiani.comune.venezia.it

from 7th march to 6th june − Palazzo

Le fantastiche storie dei nostri archivi

Mocenigo

Visioni per un inventario una mappa del navegar pittoresco

Culturale Candiani

www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it

www.querinistampalia.org

Primavera a Palazzo Fortuny

dal 21 marzo al 21 aprile − Galleria

www.save.archivi.beniculturali.it

from 8th march to 14th july − Museo

www.bevilacqualamasa.it

Sport, sportivi e giochi olimpici nell’Europa in guerra

Fortuny

Tiziano, un autoritratto

PURIM di Michal Meron

dal 22 marzo al 25 maggio − Museo Correr

until 28th february − Museo Ebraico

from 9th march al 27th april − Museo

www.museoebraico.it

Ebraico

Teatro di Duse e D'Annunzio

www.museoebraico.it

Una regione e i suoi campi

21st

february

−

Soprintendenza

archivistica per il Veneto

until al 28th february − Fondazione Giorgio Cini

www.fortuny.visitmuve.it

Atelier Bevilacqua La Masa 2013­ Mostra finale

Bevilacqua La Masa

www.correr.visitmuve.it

fino al 23 marzo − Ikona Gallery www.ikonavenezia.com

Mostra fotografica Mario Lasalandra

www.cini.it

until 9th march − Gallerie di Piazza San

Salone Nautico Internazionale di Venezia

Marco

fino al 23 marzo − Centro Culturale

www.bevilacqualamasa.it

Candiani

Haris Epaminonda.

Chapter IV

www.candiani.comune.venezia.it

4,5,6/11,12,13 march − Parco San Giuliano

Green Mobility Show

Piranesi, Fantasy and Excess

28 e 29 marzo − Venezia Terminal Passeggeri

dal 25 aprile al 4 maggio − Collezione

www.vtpevents.it

Peggy Guggenheim

Sorprese e inediti

www.guggenheim­venice.it

fino al 31 maggio − Fondazione Giorgio Cini

Viktor Popkov 1932­ 1974

www.cini.it

www.marciana.venezia.sbn.it

fino al 27 aprile − Ca' Foscari Esposizioni

fino al 2 giugno − Museo Correr

Unaregioneeisuoicampi

www.unive.it

www.correr.visitmuve.it

Il San Giovannino di Ùbeda

Il Serenissimo principe

I tesori del Ghetto

fino al 27 aprile − Palazzo Grimani

www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it

www.palazzogrimani.org

fino al 31 marzo − Galleria G. Franchetti

Prima Materia

alla Ca' d'Oro

I Doni di Shah Abbas

www.cadoro.org

fino al 27 aprile − Palazzo Ducale

www.palazzograssi.it/it/mostre/prima­

Le Stanze del Vetro

www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it

materia

dal 5 aprile al 3 agosto − Fondazione

Archivi del Vedutismo

Giorgio Cini

fino al 28 aprile − Ca' Rezzonico

Madonne. Le statue vestite della vergine

www.cini.it

www.carezzonico.visitmuve.it

fino al 31 dicembre − Museo Diocesano

Irving Penn

Dialoghi americani ­Giuseppe Panza di Biumo

d'Arte Sacra

dal

30

marzo

al

1

maggio

−

Sale

Monumentali della Libreria Sansoviniana

fino al 31 marzo − Ikona Gallery www.ikonavenezia.com

dal 13 aprile − Palazzo Grassi www.palazzograssi.it

L'illusione della luce

fino al 4 maggio − Ca' Pesaro

dal 13 aprile − Palazzo Grassi

Genesi

www.palazzograssi.it

www.capesaro.visitmuve.it

L'Impero della luce

fino al 11 maggio − Casa dei Tre Oci

fino al 14 aprile − Collezione Peggy

Franco Fontana. Full Color

Guggenheim www.guggenheim­venice.it

www.treoci.org

Maria Grazia Rosin.

Merletto frattale

fino al 18 maggio − Istituto Veneto di

dal 18 aprile al 27 luglio − Museo del

L’immagine della città europea…

Merletto www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it

Un autoritratto di Miroslav Kraljević

Scienze, Lettere ed Arti www.istitutoveneto.it

fino al 18 maggio − Museo Correr www.correr.visitmuve.it

dal 18 aprile al 15 giugno − Ca' Pesaro

Renaissance

www.capesaro.visitmuve.it

fino al 25 maggio − Espace Louis Vuitton

Kids Creative Lab

www.visitmuve.it

Diverse Maniere:

Léger 1910 ­1930

fino al 30 giugno − Palazzo Ducale

fino al 31 dicembre − Punta della Dogana

www.veneziaupt.org

S e e y o u i n Ve n i c e

L'Opera parla

www.candiani.comune.venezia.it

5, 12, 19, 26 march − Punta della Dogana

16, 17, 18 march − Scuola Grande San

Green Mobility Show

www.palazzograssi.it

Giovanni Evangelista

28, 29 march − Terminal 103

www.gustoinscena.it

www.vtpevents.it/green.html

fino to 16 march − Teatro Momo

Backstage

Benedetto Marcello

www.culturaspettacolovenezia.it

28 march − Palazzo Mocenigo

7 march − Palazzetto Bru Zane

21 march − Ptoazzo Grimani

29 march − Centro Sociale Rivolta

www.bru­zane.com

www.ptoazzogrimani.org

www.rivoltapvc.blogspot.it

22 march − Palazzetto Bru Zane

fino to 29 march − Museo Archeologico

www.bru­zane.com

Naziontoe

Gusto in Scena

Incontri con la Stagione Sinfonica 5,12,14,16,19,23

march

−

Conservatorio

Divertiamoci a teatro

Malibran www.teatrolafenice.it

Giornata Internazionale www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it www.conseve.net Compositori alfemminile della Poesia The Skatalites Visite Guidate alla Ca'D'oro 22,23,29,30

march

−

Galleria

Trii con pianoforte Giorgio

Visite guidate

Franchetti alla Ca'D'oro

Visite guidate gratuite

www.cadoro.org

22 march e 12 april − Palazzo Loredan

Visite guidate gratuite

www.istitutoveneto.it

fino to 29 march − Palazzo Grimani

Menage a trois / Puccini in Jazz

www.polomusetoe.venezia.beniculturali.it

9 march − Centro Culturale Candiani

Concerti Palazzo Bru Zane

www.candiani.comune.venezia.it

fino to 22 march − Palazzetto Bru Zane

8, 22, 29 march − Museo d'Arte Orienttoe

www.bru­zane.com

www.polomusetoe.venezia.beniculturali.it

Samuele Bersani ­ Nuvola Numero Nove

Delitto a regola d'arte

www.palazzogrimani.org

Visite guidate gratuite

9 march − Teatro Toniolo

23 march − Palazzo Ductoe

Alla ricerca del profumo perfetto

culturaspettacolovenezia.it

www.ptoazzoducale.visitmuve.it

30 march − Palazzo Mocenigo

What age are you acting? Ralph Alessi Baida Quartet 13 march − Teatro Fondamente Nuove www.teatrofondamentanuove.it

Fire!

www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it

Il suono dell'immagine

24 march − Centro Culturtoe Candiani

30 march − Ca' Pesaro

www.candiani.comune.venezia.it

Le Mappe del Tesoro

www.capesaro.visitmuve.it

15 march − Teatro Fondamente Nuove www.teatrofondamentanuove.it

27 march − Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana

from 2 to 5 april − Venezia

www.marciana.venezia.sbn.it

www.incrocidicivilta.org

Guida ai Giardini di Venezia 15 march − Museo di Storia Naturale

fino to 27 march − Teatro Toniolo

Salone Nautico Internazionale

www.msn.visitmuve.it

culturaspettacolovenezia.it

4, 5, 6, 11 12, 13 april − Expovenice

Don Byron Quartet 16 march − Centro Culturale Candiani

Io sono danza

Incroci di Civiltà

Elegy for Young Lovers 27, 29 march e 2, 4, 6 april − Teatro

www.expovenice.it

Félicien David da Parigi to Cairo

www.visitmuve.it

from 5 april to 17 maggio − Palazzetto Bru

Comunicare il verbo – Lezioni veneziane

Zane

until 30 june − Hotel Bauer

www.bru­zane.com

www.bauerhotels.com

Io sono comico

Concerti sulla scala

until 5 april − Teatro Toniolo

until 7 december − Chiesa Luterana

culturaspettacolovenezia.it

www.kirche­venedig.de

FestivalInternazionaledi Letteratura from 10 to 13 april − Venezia www.incrocidicivilta.org

Io sono teatro until 13 april − Teatro Toniolo

Backstage.La moda del Settecento until 26 december − Palazzo Mocenigo www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it

Itinerari Segreti until 31 december− Palazzo Ductoe

Safari Naturalistico in Museo 16 march − Museo di Storia Naturale www.msn.visitmuve.it

Candiani in Famiglia 23 march − Centro Culturtoe Candiani www.candiani.comune.venezia.it

Farfalle

23 march − Centro Culturtoe Candiani www.candiani.comune.venezia.it

I grandi carnivori ritornano

29 march − Museo di Storia Naturtoe www.msn.visitmuve.it

www.palazzoductoe.visitmuve.it

culturaspettacolovenezia.it

Io sono musica

Stagione del Teatro la Fenice

Be Clear!

until 15 april − Teatro Toniolo

until 31 december− Teatro La Fenice

from 8 to 29 march − Collezione Peggy

culturaspettacolovenezia.it

www.teatrolafenice.it

Guggenheim

until 27 april − Teatro Carlo Goldoni

until

www.teatrostabileveneto.it

Cini

30 march − Venezia

www.cini.it

www.suezo.it

until may − Teatro della Murata

Visite guidate

www.teatromurata.it

until 31 december − Ca' Giustinian

6 april − Palazzo Ductoe

www.labienntoe.org

www.palazzoductoe.visitmuve.it

until 3 may − Ca' Pesaro

until 31 december − Museo Ebraico

6 april − Museo di Storia Naturtoe

www.capesaro.visitmuve.it

www.museoebraico.it

www.msn.visitmuve.it

Stagione Teatro Goldoni Visite guidate Stagione Teatro Murata Visite guidate mostra Giuseppe Panza Stagione Musica da Camera

31 december− Fondazione Giorgio

Visite guidate Kids day

www.guggenheim­venice.it

36° Su e Zo per i Ponti Delitto a regola d'arte La città delle api

from 2,9,16,23,30 march e 6,13,20,27 april

Laboratorio kids mostra Giuseppe Panza

until 26 may − Teatro La Fenice e Scuola

− Peggy Guggenheim Collection

13 april − Ca' Pesaro

Grande San Rocco

www.guggenheim­venice.it

www.capesaro.visitmuve.it

www.societavenezianaconcerti.org

Le musiche dei Grimani

Vado alla Fenice con la mia famiglia

until 31 may − Ptoazzo Grimani

8,9,10 april − Teatro la Fenice

www.palazzogrimani.org

www.teatrolafenice.it

Visite guidate mostra Léger

L'Arca di Noè

Alla corte di Teodora 13 e 27 april − Ptoazzo Mocenigo www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it

Kids Creative Lab from

25

april

to

4

may

−

Peggy

25 march, 1,8 april − Centro Culturale

Guggenheim Collection

until 1 june − Museo Correr

Candiani

www.guggenheim­venice.it

www.mostrtoeger.it

www.candiani.comune.venezia.it

until june − Teatrino di Ptoazzo Grassi

15,22, 29 march e 5, 12, 19, 26 april − Punta

www.ptoazzograssi.it

della Dogana

Famiglie to Museo 2014

www.palazzograssi.it

until 21 dicembre − Musei Civici Veneziani

Proiezioni to teatrino Casa delle parole

St_Art per tutti

A Perdifiaba

until 26 april − Ptoazzo Grimani www.palazzogrimani.org

fino a giugno − Teatrino di Ptoazzo Grassi

Laboratori in Serra

www.ptoazzograssi.it

15, 22, 29 march e 5,12,19 april − La Serra

Visite guidate

dei Giardini

until 28 dicembre − Museo di Storia

www.serradeigiardini.org

Naturtoe

Live on Art

until 27 june − Musei Civici Veneziani

www.visitmuve.it

P a l a zzo G ri m a n i

Fam i l y

Castello for ki ds

Three cultural activities for children

F a b ri zi o S a n to S ch i n occa

I

f you are planning on visiting Castello, do not miss the chance to visit the museum of the Querini Stampalia Foundation: it is a house足museum that re足creates the sumptuous home of the Querini family, one of the richest art collections in the city including over four hundred paintings from between the XIV and XX century. Giovanni Bellini, Lorenzo di Credi, the two Palmas, Bernardo Strozzi, Marco and Sebastiano Ricci, Giambattista Tiepolo, Orazio Marinali, Pietro Longhi, Antonio Canova and Gabriel Bella are among the artists on display.

Qu e ri n i S ta m p a l i a F ou n d a ti on

The Foundation also opened Casa Macchietta for children aged between 3 and 6 足 a purposely equipped space with toys, books and coloured pencils. The space is divided into themed areas so that children can play or take part in various activities and animated readings.

Macchietta was one of the dogs of casa Querini, mentioned in the letters that Elena Mocenigo wrote to her husband Andrea Querini in the 1700s, and it will be the one to accompany our little guests in their adventures. A place were children are taken care of by qualified Italian, English and French足speaking personnel while parents study in the Library, read a magazine or a newspaper in the Newspaper library, visit the Museum or an exhibit or take part in a conference. From April 1st, the educational offer will be richer with daily creative workshops inspired by the theme of the month. The month of April is dedicated to reading.

Kids will discover the magical world of books and stories through reading aloud, animated readings and workshops.

A short walk from the Foundation, we find the Grimani Palace, home of the Grimani family of Santa Maria Formosa. It is abundantly decorated with frescoes, stuccos and marbles made by famous artists of the XVI century such as Giovanni da Udine, Francesco Salviati and Federico Zuccari.

The Museum has also organised a series of animated readings entitled A Perdifiaba: Letture con attori e musica dalle Fiabe di tutto il Mondo (Readings of fairy tales from all over the world with actors and music ) until the end of April 2014 to make children learn more about other languages, cultures and traditions.

There will be ten one足hour long readings, ideal for school足age children, every Saturday at 3 pm. The actors of the Pantakin actors' company will perform

traditional Russian, Jewish, African, Balkan, French, British, Norwegian, Japanese and Irish fairy tales as well as the least known gypsy ones. At tea break, children will find a small gift from the Country they have just visited, like a kosher biscuit or a piece of Japanese origami.

What is more, the Biblioteca Pedagogica "Lorenzo Bettini" (kids library) is located just after the San Zaccaria waterbus stop near St.Mark's Square: in addition to the vast collection of Italian books for kids and teenagers, there is also a variety of beautifully illustrated books and games in English, French, Spanish and German. The section for kids between 0 and 4 is on the ground floor, decorated with colourful tables and chairs and there is also an area suitable for breastfeeding or for mums­to­be. There is also a toilet with a changing area near the entrance. On the first floor, for older children, there are five wi­fi internet stations (access cards can be bought on the Portale Venezia Unica website).

I n form ati on "Lorenzo Bettini" Pedagogical Library Castello, campo S. Provolo, 4704 /a, Venice Ph.: +39 0415220557 ­ Fax: +39 041717361 biblioteca.bettini@comune.venezia.it www.comune.venezia.it

Querini Stampalia Foundation Castello 5252, 30122 Venice Ph: +39 0412711411 ­ Fax +39 0412711445 ­ Booking +39 389 3410639 (from Tuesady to Sunday from 3 p.m. to 4 p.m.) didattica@querinistampalia.org www.querinistampalia.org

Palazzo Grimani Museo di Palazzo Grimani Castello 4858 – Ruga Giuffa, 30122 Venice Ph.:+39 0412411507 www.palazzogrimani.org

“Lore n zo B e tti n i ” P e d a g og i ca l Li b ra ry

Ve n i c e L a g o o n i s l a n d s

San Francesco del Deserto An oasis of peace and meditation

V

enice is an archipelago: there are about seventy足one lagoon islands which come in various sizes and are more or less densely inhabited, embracing the historic city, characterised by ancient productive, conventuals and military settlements. And without a doubt, the lagoon islands are places of often still wild beauty, suggesting to those who set foot for the first time find themselves in another, timeless world. To the south of Burano, not far from Torcello, in a secluded and quiet corner of the lagoon, which the boat lines do not get to, rises San Francesco del Deserto, a small island that hosts a convent of minor friars, one of the last

hermitages of the lagoon. An oasis of peace and meditation, where the silence is broken only by the singing of the birds that live here undisturbed. This is certainly the ideal place for those who want to get away even for an hour from the crowds that invade the city and the other islands of the lagoon of Venice especially during the summer months, but also to spend a few days in peace, silence and meditation. An island which is perfect for a short flight from the world, strolling in the greenery of secular cypresses and pines, admiring the landscape of mud flats and salt marshes, the landmass of the lagoon, covered with thick vegetation.

The green & fair-trade map of Venice Fuorirotta. The other Map of Venice ­ 2014 edition collects all the information, advice, ideas for the travellers, looking for sustainable, original and supportive tourism in Venice, in the lagoon and on the mainland, as well as for the Venetians, who want to adopt a more dedicated and conscious life style, both as for everyday shopping and as for their cultural choices.

It is not only a map: Fuorirotta. The other Map of Venice lends itself to be used as a real guide to get around in the city and discover the eco­friendly, cultural and local­oriented initiatives, to get to know unknown sites, to enjoy the parks and the natural areas, to eat organic and zero­mile food, shopping in craftsmen’s and fair trade shops.

For further information, please visit: www.veneziaunica.it/it/content/fuori­rotta­laltra­ mappa­di­venezia

M i m i C o co d e s i g n G i org i o B om b i e ri

B etween h i story an d l egen d According to tradition, in 1220 Saint Francis of Assisi, on board a Venetian ship returning from pilgrimage to the Holy Land, landed on the island, at the time called "delle Do Vigne". Here the saint was accepted by the singing of a multitude of birds: recounts his biographer St. Bonaventure of Bagnoregio. A few years after the death of Francis, the owner of the island, the Venetian patrician Jacopo Michiel, erected a chapel in honour of the poor man of Assisi, the first dedicated to the saint, and donated the

island to the Franciscan Friars, to build a convent. The name of the place dates back to a couple of centuries later, when in the Fifteenth Century the insulation and the unhealthiness of the place forced the Franciscans to abandon the island, which was deserted for some years. In 1451 the island was granted to Friars Minor sent in to restore the church and the convent, who also built the Renaissance cloister. At the end of that same century, Pope Clement VIII settled the Reformed Friars Minor therein. The latter order remained on the island until 1806, when the Napoleonic suppression of religious orders forced the friars to leave the island, while the

convent was used for the storage of explosives and the island itself became a military barracks. In 1856, the Austrian Emperor Francis I gave the island to the Patriarch of Venice, who in turn granted it in perpetuity to the Franciscan Friars Minor. In 1858 came the work of restoration of the entire complex, that brought to light not only the apses of the oratory but also the foundations of the ancient thirteenth­century church, which is in turn built on a building with two compartments.

Nowadays the church with the two cloisters, one dating back to the thirteenth century and the other from the Renaissance period, are places of prayer for a small community of Franciscans.

costs 10 euro. Once off the boat, visitors walk along a tree­lined avenue that leads to the church, flanked by the bell tower and by the convent. The door to the right leads to the first cloister, recently restored, and the nearby fifteenth­century cloister, with a baroque well­curb at its centre.

Among the works of art and the paintings of various origins, visitors can see the Four Crowned Saints attributed to Jacopo Tintoretto and Andrea Meldolla, called Schiavone. The beautiful garden, very well maintained by the friars, is also worth a visit. Walking along the path visitors reach two panoramic terraces, with gorgeous views of the beautiful landscape of the surrounding lagoon.

Vi si t to th e h erm i tage

I n retreat on th e i sl an d

The island of San Francesco del Deserto is open to anyone who wants to visit it during the day, from 9 am to 11 am and from 3 pm to 5 pm, every day except Mondays. Visitors are greeted and escorted throughout their visit by a Franciscan friar. The island is within easy reach of Burano by private boat: the connection is guaranteed every day ­ except on Mondays ­ at 2.30 pm; the journey to and from the island takes about ten minutes and

The friars welcome those who wish to retreat for a few days in the silence and solitude of the convent: visitors can book in advance, can stay on the island to spend three days following the rhythms of the Franciscans, usually from Friday afternoon to Sunday lunchtime. Guests share moments of prayer and meals with the community. The visitors stay in a home providing single rooms with shared bathrooms.

G i org i o B om b i e ri

G i org i o B om b i e ri

U sefu l I n fo

G i org i o B om b i e ri

To get to the island of San Francesco del Deserto from the historical centre of Venice, take public waterbus line 12 from Fondamente Nove up to Burano.

For timetables please refer to the website of the public transportation company: www.actv.it To reach the island of San Francesco del Deserto from Burano with the shuttle service, you can contact in advance www.lagunaescursioni.com To stay and spend a few days on the island of San Francesco del Deserto, call the phone number 041 5286863 at meal times. For more information visit the website of the Franciscan convent: www.sanfrancescodeldeserto.it

F ra n ce sca B org i ol i

S e c r e t Ve n i c e

V enic e bac kst age

Behind the scenes of one of the most well known and visited cities in the world

An d re a B orsoi

W

ith over 630 hectares, it can boast of being one of the most extensive wetlands in the Mediterranean; you may well say that Venice is a city where the unusual la­ goon environment has influenced and affects more or less directly all the activi­ ties and functions that take place there.

Indeed, the water of the lagoon is renewed by the tide of the Adriatic and passes through its three inlets twice a day and from the few rivers that over the centuries have not been subject to hydraulic diversion works (such as for example the Brenta River or the South Tyrol) and still flow into it (such as Marzenego, Dese, Sile, … ). The bottoms are around one metre deep on average (even if in some cases in the vicinity of the industrial port they can reach 15 ­ 20 metres).

It is an environment that appears homogeneous but is instead distinctly hierarchical with a succession of freshwaters and marine currents, among a maze of canals.

These are the conditions that determine the development of the city of Venice, its delicate balance and its distinct specificity.

L e i to n g C h e n

Rel ati on sh i p wi th th e water Venice is not an island, but from the outset, it developed as a sort of urban archipelago composed of several nuclei ­ currently there are 124 settlements ­ sharing a few elements: the field, in which the functions of collective interest are concentrated ­ church and market ­ lapped by at least one rio ­ currently, in all likelihood it has been buried and become an underground canal called rio Terà ­ and one or more water wells. In an urban environment surrounded by brackish water, one of the fundamental problems is finding drinking water: for centuries, the Venetians devised a great underground system to collect rainwater. This system ­ which is no longer in use because from 1884 it was replaced by Le public fountains of the aqueduct ­ there remains a trace in the hundreds of well curbs that emerge in almost all fields (squares).

It is precisely the skillful historical and progressive exploitation of the advantages of

living in the lagoon (insulation, barriers and development of a diffused port) that allowed Venice to become one of the greatest powers of the Mediterranean in a relatively short time.

But water is also Venice's great physical limitation. Construction is expensive because the foundations rest on muddy terrain, consolidated by means of a thick layer of long wooden poles stuck down to the more compact sediments (caranto). A wooden structure and a base of Istria stone is then placed on these "forests" of poles on which the real masonry is set.

The margins of the town's islands are also lined with bricks to combat erosion, but these require continuous maintenance procedures because in the long rune they lose water proofing: the brackish water erodes the mortar that holds them together and the motion of the waves detaches them.

In addition, the porosity of the masonry draws the rising damp which ­ by evaporating ­ crystallises the dissolved salts: these increase in volume and crumble the bricks themselves.

Streets of th e ci ty The first singular element which appears to those who visit Venice is the separation of pedestrian paths from those intended for transport, i.e. the canals. This principle is as current as it is original and prevades the history of the city. People used to move between the islands using almost exclusively the water ways and for a long time the bridges remain very few: nowadays, the situation is less obvious because 足 beyond the current 438 bridges 足 nineteenth century pedestrian routes were developed to such an extent that to this day people in the city mostly move around on foot and even the pipes for the technical installations (electricity, water, telephone ... ) use the same pedestrian paths and ... crossing the bridges!

When we look at the map of the city, the network of canals is very evident and the articulation of the fundamental urban body in insulae is very recognisable and follows a few models repeated throughout the city: more or less regularly built, arranged in a comb shape along the canals, tracked by narrow internal streets or facing each other on larger open spaces called campi.

G l ossary calle: from the Latin "calle (m) ", which means path, track. fondamenta: land that overlooks a rio. ruga: road lined with shops. piscina: marshy underground terrain ramo: side of a main street ... often without exit. sottoporteghi: spaces under buildings barbacane:emerging trusses that support the projection of the buildings on the first floor to gain space without restricting the pedestrian surface salizada: an important urban paved route caranto: (from the late Latin caris "stone") a fossil soil of particular consistency forming the foundation of Venetian palaces

Arch i vi o S tori co M u n i ci p a l e d i Ve n e zi a , F on d o G i a com e l l i

N i n a S a n d i ki

Th e h ou ses. . . on th e trees Thousands of long poles inserted headlong head down, planted by force into the soft underlying soil: it is not difficult to think of Venice as an incredible upside down forest, on which an entire town of houses stands ... on trees!

The buildings were created based on the environmental features and the most fre­ quent scheme adopted in construction is that of Fondaco warehouses, the type of re­ sidence of medieval merchant families.

The raised scheme follows these modules: a) ground floor: storage and sale space b) portego: living room on the first floor ha­ ving the function of reception space c) attic: servants' quarters The wood and brick structures, together wi­ th the foundations adapt to the subsidence of the underlying soil; you can think of a building as if it were a box with walls and floors not rigidly secured to the perimeter.

The walls are simply resting on the masonry to allow for movements.

The load­bearing walls are almost always perpendicular to the rii and thus they are the only real load­bearing walls i.e. they carry the floor loads The facade does not have a bearing function, indeed, as it is not loaded, it allows for large openings to let light into the building and almost overlooks The perimeter walls are slightly inclined in­ wards and in case of disruptions these tend to anchor the roof avoiding outward protru­ sion.

The floors and covers are made of wood, a light, elastic material that resists building modifications without breaking.

The floors are connected with a system of interwoven stairs (Leonardesque stairs) that allow for separate entrances for reception and the servants. However there were also points of exchange to enable the transition from one part to another.

F o r m o r e i n fo r m a t i o n

"Venice Backstage. Come funziona Venezia?", video docu-

mentary produced by Insula SpA for Venice City council. www.venicebackstage.org The Atlas of lagoon:

Geoportal of the lagoon, of the territory and the coastal area of Venice www.silvenezia.it

L'Italia, Venezia,

2005

Touring, Milano

Tizano Scarpa, Venezia è un pesce. Una guida, Feltrinelli, Milano 2008 I n su l a S PA

bricks stone water level

channel bottom wooden planking wooden polo caranto Lu ca B i a n ch e tto d a u n d i se g n o d i M a ri o P i a n a

Kse n i a S ca rp a

T h e s t o n e s o f Ve n i c e

Th e Yorck P roj e ct: 1 0 . 0 0 0 M e i ste rwe rke d e r M a l e re i . D VD -RO M

The sestieri

Castello

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W i ki m e d i a C o m m o n s ,

astello is the Ea­ sternmost part of Ve­ nice. It is the biggest sestiere and the second most populated, but it is the only one that does not overlook the Grand Canal.

Its name derives from the Castle that doge Pietro Tri­ buno built in the 1800s to fortify the city and which later became the head­ quarters of the religious au­ thority until the Patriarch moved from the San Pietro di Castello island to St. Marks. The sestiere develo­ ped around the Arsenale, thanks to the building of houses for those who used to work in the nearby workshops, barns, furnaces and warehouses. The Domi­

nican convent of San Gio­ vanni e Paolo and the Franciscan one of San Francesco della Vigna are in the Northern part of the se­ stiere. The Public Gardens and Via Garibaldi date back to Napoleonic times and there are also two schools ­ Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni and Scuola Grande di San Marco.

The latter was transformed

by Napoleon into a military hospital and it still houses the Santi Giovanni e Paolo city hospital, which takes its name from the church on which it stands. Nowadays, Castello is quite a popular area, but it is actually considered a peripheral part of the city.

traditions

Festa del Bocolo

F

or Venetians, 25th April is a far more ancient anniversary than Liberation Day, as it is St. Mark's Day. He is Venice's patron saint and his relics, which used to be in Alexandria, were mo­ ved to Venice in 828 by le­ gendary Venetian merchants Buono from Malamocco and Rustico from Torcello.

The story goes that, in order to steal the precious body of the saint, the two merchants hid it in pork meat, as it would not be inspected at customs because of the Mu­ slim disgust for that type of

meat. Traditionally, men gi­ ve the girl they love a bóco­ lo on this day, i.e. a single rosebud. It is a long­ standing tradition, still hi­ ghly popular among Vene­ tians, who often buy a flower also for their relatives and loved ones. According to the legend, a noblewoman fell in love with a troubadour who, when badly wounded in battle, fell upon a rosebed and coloured a rosebud with his blood. The rosebud was then returned to the woman, who was found dead holding the symbolic gift the day after, i.e. 25th April.

Castrau re

Ci ttà d i Ve n e zi a - S e rvi zi o Vi d e ocom u n i ca zi on e

Typical artichokes grown on the Sant'Erasmo island, famous for their slightly bitter taste.

In a pan Ingredients serves 4: 10 artichokes; 2 garlic cloves; oil; vegetable stock; salt Instructions Cut the artichokes in half and put them in a pan. Season them with salt, oil and a glass of vegetable stock. Cook them on a high heat for ten minutes, then lower the heat and let them cook for half an hour. Turn the artichokes every now and then and add stock to prevent drying out. When cooked, add freshly chopped parsley and serve hot.

Fried Ingredients: 36 castraure or botoli; Peanut oil; salt; For the batter: water; flour; yeast; salt Instructions Remove the toughest leaves and cut the artichokes into wedges Dip every wedge in a simple batter (or egg, if you prefer) and fry them in abundant oil.

Alternatively, roll the wedges in flour and fry them. www.carciofosanterasmo.it

W i ki m e d i a C o m m o n s ,

T h e s t o n e s o f Ve n i c e

Venetian curiosities

F a b ri zi o O l i ve tti

Ancient crafts

Intagiadori Ci ttà d i Ve n e zi a - S e rvi zi o Vi d e ocom u n i ca zi on e

I

Al tan a

t is a sort of wooden terrace mounted on top of pillars on the roofs of houses. During the Repu­ blic, Venetian women used to go up there to lighten their hair colour ­ after dyeing their hair, they would let it dry in the sun through a straw hat with no top (solana).

This unusual and typical structure became essential during World War I to deploy the fusiliers assi­ gned to air defence.

Nowadays, the altane are mostly used to dine al fresco or simply chat with friends during sultry summer nights.

C

arving is a very ancient form of arti­ stic wood decoration which has always been one of the main crafts in many Italian regions.

This art originated because of the need to embellish and make homes more welcoming by transforming everyday objects into ma­ gnificent artefacts expres­ sing the symbolic values of local traditions. In Venice, intagiadóri are usually those craftsmen who intervene in the final phase of the decoration of gondolas. They sculpt not only the parts that can be seen, but also the parécio, that is to say the furniture for passengers. Gondolas

nowadays look very diffe­ rent from what can be seen in the paintings of the XVIII century.

As they increasingly beca­ me ceremonial boats, the bow coverings of gondolas were also modified ­ the fiuboni (wooden boards that cover the stern and bow of gondolas) took the shape of roofs and were decorated with carvings, inlays and gilding. Wood­ carvers can be specialised in either 'decorations' or 'figures', but the subjects are always agreed upon with gondoliers in advance on the basis of a 'repertoi­ re' of drawings accumu­ lated by the workshop over the years.

Not only gondola

The sandolo

a rza n a . org

E

ach copy of the large fleet of small boats that pass through the canals of Venice every day has a particular history: the sandolo is no exception.

It is one of the most wide­ spread types in the lagoon and over the years it has evolved in very different ways continuously from one island to the other, depending on use and the environment.

The lightness and agility of the sandalo, both with Ve­ netian rowing with two cross oars (alla vallesana technique), have made it equivalent to a

cart or bicycle for the Vene­ tian population, becoming the most suitable way to row along stretches of lagoon a few centimetres deep: a tool for uniting people walking on the water ­ sandalo is also the name of known type of flat shoe, the sandal ­ in an environment that is often difficult and hostile but that despite this has allowed for a civilization to develop and remained for centuries in symbiosis with the ecosy­ stem, respecting its natural resources and reaping the greatest fruit possible.

Ci ttà d i Ve n e zi a - S e rvi zi o Vi d e ocom u n i ca zi on e

W i ki m e d i a C o m m o n s

There are large ones, around nine meters, such as the sandolo buranello ­ that was used mostly for different types of fishing, so large and elegant as to still be in use along with the gondolas for the transport of pas­ sengers in the city ­ or small ones (5­6 me­ ters) such as the so­called s'ciopon ­ the dialectal name of the high caliber rifle that was installed on board until the sixties, and which was used for hunting birds in the la­ goon during the periods of migration.

Other strange names linked to the ancient crafts are for example the sandolo da fos­ sina or da fagiaroto (for fishing with the harpoon), different from the s'ciopon by a more marked elevation of the extremities (bow and stern) the saltafossi of simple, lightweight and inexpensive construction was used in fishing valleys dragged by a single man to overcome an embankment or circumvent other obstacles, the cofano or sandolo with coverta: a sandolo born of the experience of the hunters of the north la­ goon who extended the cover to half boat to cover the hunter during the hunt and to keep the load dry even on rainy days: it is practi­ cally the archetype of fiberglass motorboats that young venetians who often irresponsibly dash along the canals in the city or the sandolo of San Piero or sampierotta, from the name of the village of San Pietro in Volta, a very comfortable and capacious fi­ shing boat which is suitable for the sea as well, born for rowing and currently having a new lease of life among lugsail experts thanks to its good sailing characteristics, the puppa­ rin, the only asymmetric sandolo similar to the gondola with a stern developed to increa­ se rowing yield, used when there were still no engines in the lagoon especially by customs officers and smugglers, who for obvious rea­ sons needed speed and maneuverability or the mascareta, a very elegant sandolo of which there remains only the sport version, which is very widespread among rowing club associations.

N i co l ò Z e n

L u c a B i a n c h e tto

Ci ttĂ d i Ve n e zi a - S e rvi zi o Vi d e ocom u n i ca zi on e

V – Venezia magazine

Year 2, issue 6 March - April 201 4 Bi-monthly online magazine by the Tourism Department of the City of Venice Contacts:

turismosostenibile@comune.venezia.it

Tourism Department

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