Cincinnati Magazine - September 2023 Edition

BESTPIZZERIASINTHEQUEEN

Skincare’s Night Out

Join

Local board-certified Dermatologist Mona S. Foad hosts an annual event each fall that is dedicated to education and innovation. The Anniversary Event is the perfect opportunity to learn more about what’s available in the field of non-surgical anti-aging treatments. Anyone can learn and have fun at this event—whether you are brand new to skincare or you’re a skin care guru who’s been getting treatments for years. “This is one of my favorite events every year where I get to talk to both longtime patients as well as meet brand new faces! Come and mingle with our staff, grab a lite bite, and learn about some of the latest advances in anti-aging treatments.”

—Dr. Mona S. Foad

Jessica Watkins, PA-C prepares a patient to receive a Sofwave Ultrasound Tightening treatment during the 2022 live demonstrations. The Anniversary Event is a great opportunity to learn about cutting-edge treatments firsthand from Mona Dermatology’s team of providers and skincare experts.

Provider Meet & Greet

This year’s event will also introduce two new medical and cosmetic providers to the Mona Dermatology team, Dr. Alexandra Bowles and Brooke Stinnette, CNP. Guests will have the opportunity to meet the new providers, ask questions, get to know them, and schedule appointments. In addition to the new providers, all five of Mona Dermatology’s existing providers will also be at the event to meet you and answer your questions: Dr. Mona Foad; Jessica Watkins, PA-C; Anna Luning, CNP; Megan Niese, PA-C; and Taylor Wojniak, CNP.

New Treatments & Products

At the Anniversary Event, you’ll be the first to see and experience the latest innovations in anti-aging skin-

care. This educational evening will allow you to learn more about all non-surgical treatments offered at Mona Dermatology’s Kenwood-based practice, which includes over 30 treatments. Experts will be available to discuss injectable treatments such as Botox, filler, and Kybella; tightening treatments such as EmFace, Ellacor, SofWave Ultrasound Tightening, RF Microneedling, thread lifts, and Thermage; lasers and lights such as IPL, BBL, Halo, Fraxel, and PicoSure; body treatments such as CoolSculpting and EmSculpt Neo; and facial treatments such as Diamond Glow, Oxygen Facial, microneedling, and chemical peels. In addition to the treatments featured, representatives will also be available from several top medical-grade skincare brands such as SkinMedica and ISDIN.

Details & Registration

Special event pricing will be available for all products and treatments that are featured at the Anniversary Event. Attendees will also have the opportunity to enter giveaways, enjoy passed appetizers, and sip curated wines and non-alcoholic beverages while they mingle and learn from the providers and skincare experts. Free valet parking will be available as well.

Eventregistrationisnowopenatmonadermatology.com.ScantheQRcodetoregister!

The Mona Dermatology provider team at the 2022 Anniversary Event (left to right) Megan Niese, PA-C, Taylor Wojniak, CNP, Mona S. Foad, M.D., Alexandra Bowles, D.O., Anna Luning, CNP, and Jessica Watkins, PA-C

P. 34

PIZZA!

Deep dish. Thin crust. Detroit style. Whatever your favorite pie, you’ll find it here in the tri-state. We ate our way across nearly 50 of the area’s independent pizza joints to come up with the top 25.

DRIVING CHANGE P. 48

Armed with 25 years of sales tax funding, Cincinnati Metro looks to lead the region into a more equitable and prosperous future—whether you ride the bus or not.

BY CEDRIC ROSE

ODE TO JOY P. 52

From his first public appearance as music director at Lumenocity to his final season in Cincinnati, opening this month, Louis Langrée brought a new spark to the Cincinnati Symphony Orchestra. And he learned to be a Cincinnatian.

BY RICK PENDER

CHCA CELEBRATES

118 GRADUATES will attend 48 schools in 20 states... see where they are going!

Lexi Achterberg

Megumi Agerton

Demi Ajibade

Mariano Andaluz

Ady Anderson

Ananya Annapantula

“I have been at CHCA since preschool and I am immensely grateful for all the opportunities the school and its remarkable faculty have offered me. With the CHCA community by my side, I have won the National Merit Scholarship, the Global Seal of Biliteracy in Spanish and French, first class honors from the Royal Conservatory of Music in Level 10 Piano, and Bronze, Silver, and Gold President’s Volunteer Service Awards.”

Ricky Arora

Zeynep Aslaner

Caroline Beckes

Jordan Bell

Faith Bentley

Casey Boeckerman

Sarah Bowling

Emma Breech

Saylor Brock

Alex Browning

Reagan Butrum

Robby Cain

Kayleigh Campbell

“I have been at CHCA since preschool, and have always loved the community at CHCA. By making connections with my teachers, I was able to win multiple national and regional scholastic art awards and establish a teaching assistant program in the English department. CHCA gave me all the resources and opportunities

William Castellanos

Tyler Cebulskie

Tara Chalasani

Joy Chen

Reese Clary

Katharine Clayton

Paul Collins

Avery Cox

Emma Dal Betto

Maria DeCarlo

Drew Dobyns

James Doyle

Mycah Droege

Brent Duckwall

“I have attended CHCA since the eighth grade and I am incredibly thankful for the many wonderful opportunities that the school has provided me. From serving people experiencing homelessness during service immersions to setting up solar panel micro-grid systems in remote Puerto Rico, I have had a blast experiencing all that CHCA has to offer.”

Colin Eppert

Julianna Filomena

Aidan Fox

Ken Fukuda

Tyler Gage

Nicholas Gansle

Alexa Gaudet

Josh Gaudet

Nikolai Gertsman

Garrett Gerver

Andrew Ghastine

Martina Giachero

Benjamin Griffin

Megan Harris

Ben Hartmann

Alexander Helmsworth

Annelise Helwig

Kierstin Hillis

Kendyl Hippe

Kathryn Hippe

Ava Hoffman

Aidan Hook

Parker Hon

Amanda Hurry

Elise Irwin

Joseph Jostworth

Faith Jostworth

Colin Juffer

Ainsley Keyes

Christina Kolar

William Kuhlman

Jonah Lang

Sebastiano Leni

Ethan Long

Marce Marroquin

Silas McNutt

Cameron Miller

Carley Millette

Isaac Mills

Taylor Mitchell

Logan Mullert

Abe Nicholas

Brady Nix

Jack O'Dea

Tyler Ooten

Logan Ottke

Sarah Pan

Colin Papp

Miya Parton

Grace Pearson

Bella Pfister

Lauren Phelps

Adelina Popova

Payton Puryear

Mac Qu

Ben Rempe

Rachael Reynolds

Andrew Rezman

Weston Roberts

Bianca Rodriguez

Baylen Romanello

Abby Rosenfeldt

Henry Rottinghaus

Johnathan Russell

Max Sanchez

Benjamin Sandefur

Kate Sandstrom

Grace Santa

Hayes Santa

Emma Sauve

Will Saxby

Maggie Seitz

Joey Shafer

Marco Siegel

Ben Smith

Kiylah Smoot

Gabrielle Soloria

Maya Stemple

Craig Stotz

Ty Sweeney

Ava Tomlin

Nick Wilkowski

Liza Willman

Leydn Yankoff

Sanders Zhang

“Whatever you do, work at it with all your heart, as working for the Lord, not for human masters, since you know that you will receive an inheritance from the Lord as a reward. It is the Lord Christ you are serving.” – Colossians 3:23-24 (Class Verse)

WASHINGTON UNIVERSITY IN ST. LOUIS

12 / CONTRIBUTORS

12 / LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

FRONTLINES

19 / DISPATCH

The National comes home once again

20 / SPEAK EASY

E. Randol Schoenberg on family history and recovering stolen treasures

22 / STYLE COUNSEL

Holly Carrier goes fairycore

24 / REAL ESTATE

An artist’s studio turned Riverside Drive condo, Covington

26 / INTERSECTION College Hill

28 / DR. KNOW

Your QC questions answered

COLUMNS

30 / WELCOME TO MIDDLEHOOD

A touch of gray BY JUDI KETTELER

104 / CINCY OBSCURA

Newport’s East Row Fairy

Doors BY LAUREN

DINE

84 / OFF THE MENU

The disappearing maître d’

86 / REVISIT

Krueger’s Tavern, Overthe-Rhine

86 / TAKE 5

Pop-ups are poppin’

88 / TAKEOUT HERO

Pike Street Diner, Covington

88 / TABLESIDE WITH…

Jaime Carmody of Out of Thyme Kitchen Studio

90 / DINING GUIDE

Greater Cincinnati restaurants: A selective list

ON

FOOD NEWS

An extra serving of our outstanding dining coverage.

CITY NEWS

Decoding our civic DNA, from history to politics to personalities. HOME + LIFE

Tracking what’s new in local real estate, artisans, and storefronts.

FISHER

Insight and analysis on the Bengals, Reds, and FC Cincinnati.

09.23

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PAGE 67 Smart Guide to Local Schools 2023

Searching for a school for your kids? Our guide has details and stats on some outstanding local schools.

John Gould:Senior Vice President. Financial Advisor. CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNER™. Senior Portfolio Manager. Certified Private Wealth Advisor®. Workplace Advisor - Equity Compensation. Alternative Investments Director. 27+ years of experience. Anna Kohlem: Assistant Vice President. Wealth Management Associate. Financial Planning Specialist. Complex CSA Coach. 25+ years of experience. Janie Shaffer: Business Development Director. Duke University graduate. Former attorney. 5+ years of experience.

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FROM LEFT: JOHN GOULD, ANNA KOHLEM, AND JANIE SHAFFER

Photo by Connie Kimsey

I

I INHALED PIZZA AT SIX DIFFERENT LOCAL RESTAURANTS RECENTLY, AND IN THE middle of my tasting tour I flew to an out-of-town funeral. What did I grab to eat at the airport? Pizza. (It was actually pretty good: Blaze Pizza in Terminal A at CVG.) What food did we arrange for the family gathering after the funeral? Pizza. (It was meh, ordered from a national chain. But I still had a couple of pieces.)

I’ll argue that pizza has become “America’s food,” replacing the burger as our main course of choice for any and all occasions. Like the burger, you can make decent pizza yourself at home, get quick-and-easy versions at a number of cheap storefronts, or try unusual varieties at specialty spots. Some of the nicest dining establishments in town serve their own take on pizza. You can also find it at a gas station or a neighborhood market.

We explore the depth and breadth of Cincinnati’s pizza offerings this month (page 34). We last rated the area’s top pizza places in the September 2018 issue of Cincinnati Magazine. Over those five years, “The Top 25 Pizza Parlors in Cincinnati” was one of the most frequently viewed stories on our website almost every week. Much more than “The 45 Best Burgers in Cincinnati.” More than even “John ‘The Dancing Trucker’ Drury Is a Super Spreader of Joy.” (Really.)

Knowing the ongoing hunger for pizza news and insight, we sent staff and freelance writers to almost 50 different independently owned pizza spots around the Cincinnati area. As I said, I was assigned to test six places, three of which were new to me. I would gladly have done more.

This month’s top 25 pizza places is an interesting companion to our 2018 ranking: Only four of the top 10 restaurants in 2018 appear in our new top 10; two of the 2018 favorites have closed, and two of this year’s picks have been open for just six months. In the ever-changing landscape of dining options across Cincinnati, one constant remains: Pizza is awesome. What else can you say?

JOHN FOX EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Contributing editor J. Kevin Wolfe prefers green olives and mushrooms on his pizza. “[It’s] hearty, filling and hits all the buds right,” Wolfe says. This month, he helped us rank the city’s top 25 pizza parlors. His favorite? He’s been an Adriatico’s stan for more than 40 years. “[It’s] bold, slightly-spicy sauce and just-a-bit-tangy cheese on a crust that’s both crispy and chewy.” His own homemade pizza comes a close second.

JUDI KETTELER

Contributing writer Judi Ketteler recently won a Cincinnati SPJ Award: Best Columnist, for her bimonthly Welcome to Middlehood column (page 30). “I’m always trying to make these interesting connections because that’s what we do in our brains all the time,” Ketteler says. “And I just try to [show] the work of it [in writing] in real time.”

DAN ZETTWOCH

“Pieces of a pizza are like [pieces of] a puzzle that fit together,” says contributing artist Dan Zettwoch. In “My Favorite Pie” (page 42), Zettwoch, whose cartoons and illustrations are inspired by comic books, puzzled together portraits of some of our favorite Cincinnatians with their favorite slices. “You can tell a lot about a person by what their favorite pizza is.”

J. KEVIN WOLFE

THEY WORK AT THE MOLECULAR LEVEL FOR BIG DISCOVERIES

These UC College of Medicine scientists explore fundamental neurobiological mechanisms within the body and develop hypotheses of ways to cure or treat diseases. Using the most sophisticated laboratory tools, their goal is finding new treatments to improve the lives of people with diseases such as cancer, brain and spinal cord injuries, neurological diseases and psychiatric disorders. Along the way, they pass their knowledge and expertise to passionate and curious students who will continue the exploration and discovery of medical breakthroughs. Indispensable medicine, right here in Cincinnati.

Left to right: Eric Wohleb, PhD; Agnes Luo, PhD; Jiajie Diao, PhD.

IMAGINEAWORLD

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AtLindnerCenterof HOPE,webringthat worldtolife.Forovera decade,ourexpertstaff hashelpedthousands overcome anxiety, depression,and addiction.Nomatter yourageorstruggle, LindnerCenterofHOPE offerstransformative servicesdesignedto promotelong-lasting healing.Youdon'thave tofacementalillness alone.

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CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Jim DeBrosse, Kathleen Doane, Jay Gilbert, Lisa Murtha, Laurie Pike, Kevin Schultz, John Stowell, Linda Vaccariello, Jenny Wohlfarth, J. Kevin Wolfe

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YOU CAN GO HOME AGAIN

Bryce Dessner dishes on The National’s long-awaited Homecoming return. JASON

COHEN

THE NATIONAL’S HOMECOMING FESTIVAL, WHICH COMES TO THE ANDREW J BRADY Music Center’s outdoor stage September 15 & 16, is the concert you’ve been waiting for…for exactly three years, four months, and one week, in fact. The second edition of the Cincinnati-bred band’s event was originally scheduled for May 2020, but the pandemic had other ideas. All told, they had to cancel not only Homecoming but 39 other shows around the world. And while The National ultimately released their ninth album (First Two Pages of Frankenstein came out in April) and have been back on the road, the return of Homecoming, which debuted in 2018, was by no means guaranteed.

“There was a question for a while if we would do it again,” says guitarist and songwriter Bryce Dessner, whose more experimental (and longer-running) MusicNOW Festival came back to Cincinnati in 2021. “But we really felt like we wanted to reconnect with home. The band’s in a really good place.”

In addition to a dozen other artists, Homecoming will find The National delivering a pair of jam-packed headline sets commemorating the 10th anniversaries of 2010’s High Violet (previously scheduled for the canceled festival) and 2013’s Trouble Will Find Me.

While The National rose to prominence as residents of Brooklyn, Cincinnati still defines them. It’s where the five members (and two sets of brothers) became friends as students at Cincinnati Country Day and/or the University of Cincinnati, where they first began to play in bands, and where they grew up on the Contemporary Arts Center, CCM, and the Cincinnati Symphony Orchestra, as well CONTINUED ON P. 20

as the likes of Bootsy Collins and The Afghan Whigs. “We almost become more Ohio as we get older,” says Dessner. “All of our families are there. And there’s just a sweetness about being there. Something in the air. Even that feeling of the summer humidity.”

The height of the pandemic was a time of both challenges and opportunities for Dessner and The National. With him in France and brother Aaron living in upstate New York, it was the longest the twins had been apart in their lives.

But it was still possible to write and record, including music for The National, movie soundtrack work, and Bryce’s classical composing. The brothers also found themselves a decent side hustle when Aaron produced and cowrote Taylor Swift’s Folklore album, with Bryce contributing orchestration. It won the 2021 Grammy for Album of the Year and has been followed by additional collaborations: Swift appears on Frankenstein, and Aaron joined her onstage when the Eras Tour came to Paycor Stadium.

says Dessner. “You do that to be present in an almost ritualistic way, where you get to really be in communion with sound and with the other people around you and with the musicians on stage.”

He knows how fortunate he is to still make music for a career. “I have a keen sense of time, especially having small children and having parents who are getting older,” he says. “None of this is forever, and so I’m grateful for the time I get to play music with my friends.”

OTHER HOMECOMING ACTS

RECLAIMING FAMILY TREASURES

Festival Fun

Homecoming also features art installations and local food vendors both days. americanmary. com/homecoming

Patti Smith reminds Dessner of growing up in Cincinnati around the time of “the whole Mapplethorpe thing” and also of living in New York. “She’s kind of like the goddess of New York,” he says. “It’s really amazing to have her performing with us.”

Pavement and The Walkmen represent key influences from The National’s early days. “Matt always says that we wouldn’t be a band without them,” says Dessner.

Making a new record in the time of COVID was also rocky, with lead singer Matt Berninger in particular suffering from writer’s block. But the stress and tension of that time is in the rearview mirror now that the band is back to playing together and in front of other people. “For me, playing a concert and going to a concert is kind of the same experience,”

Arooj Aftab is a rising PakistaniAmerican star who won a Grammy for Best Global Music Performance in 2022. “She’s like a total rock star with a charisma and stage presence that feels like Madonna or something.”

Local acts include Carriers (the longtime nom-de-rock of ex-Pomegranates frontman Curt Kiser), R&B and soul man Leo Pastel, and Dylan McCartney’s clattering combo The Drin.

TEEING OFF IN KENWOOD

The world’s best women golfers return to the Kenwood Country Club September 6–10 for the Queen City Championship. The second annual LPGA Tour event is sponsored by Kroger and P&G. Daily tickets start at $25. queencitylpga.com

You may recognize E. Randol Schoenberg’s name from the 2015 movie Woman in Gold. Starring Helen Mirren and Ryan Reynolds, it’s the story of Schoenberg, a young lawyer, helping Maria Altmann recover the Gustav Klimt painting Portrait of Adele Bloch-Bauer I, which was stolen from her family by the Nazis and displayed in an Austrian museum since the end of World War II. Schoenberg speaks September 27 at Cincinnati Museum Center, sponsored by Salmon P. Chase College of Law and Nancy and David Wolf Holocaust & Humanity Center, and presents a new documentary, Finding Fioretta, the next night at the Mariemont Theatre.

How did you argue legal subtleties of Altmann’s case without getting overwhelmed by the larger moral dimensions of what the Nazis did to Jews in Europe? That’s the question I had to deal with, especially when presenting at the U.S. Supreme Court. You could argue, “Why can’t you find a way to help this person?” But the law is supposed to be more dispassionate; you’re trained as a lawyer or judge not to

let your heart take you away from what the law is.

After a victory at the Supreme Court, why did you agree to let an Austrian arbitration board make the final decision? We were already seven years into this process, and Maria was 89. There were still a lot of legal hurdles to get through. I thought it was a way to shortcut all those legalistic arguments and get to the heart of the point that the art belonged to her. We ended up winning [and the painting was returned to Altmann].

What are your hopes for the new film, Finding Fioretta, about your ongoing search for family history? I hope it will be shown at regular film festivals and Jewish film festivals, and then streamed and maybe show in some theaters in major cities. The film has Jewish elements, obviously, but it’s also about my relationship with my son and the interesting people we meet in the process of discovering ancestors going back 500 years. If you’re into genealogy, that’s an added bonus.

—STEVEN ROSEN

SPEAK EASY

Holly Carrier

OCCUPATION: Studio manager at aaconn (a photography s tudio); home staging for Design To Market

STYLE: Bright colors and comfy clothes for everyday wear, feminine and fairycore for dressing up

What role does fashion play in your life?

It’s definitely one of the biggest ways that I express myself and express my interests. I have a lot of things that I make for books that I’m into. I’ll make fandom merch. I have an embroidery machine. When I do cosplay and I’m in all of my fairycore stuff, that’s my time when I get to express my girlier side. In my everyday fashion, I’m kind of like, biker shorts and graphic tees. Does the costuming ever leak over into your everyday wear? I might wear a corset one day or have more of a feminine, fairycore look because of the things I purchase to do the cosplay. What’s your current favorite thing in your closet? I have this pair of exclusive Crocs, and I desperately wish I would have bought multiple pairs because I’ve worn them out. They were a Ruby Rose exclusive that was put out for Pride, so they’re rainbow colored, but the shoes look completely different: One is cool colors, and one is warm colors. They’re tie-dye and have these crazy straps, and I’ve just been obsessed with them for three years. How did you get into cosplay and costuming? I go allout for Halloween. I make everything myself. When The Force Awakens came out, I was like, “I’m gonna be Rey for Halloween this year.” I was getting leathers and dying them myself and dragging fabric through the dirt to make it look like I’d come from the sandy planet she’d been on in the preview. It just has to be completely perfect. Otherwise, it’s just not good enough for me. In the last two years, I’m like, “Why don’t I do this more often? I only do this around Halloween, and it makes me so happy, and I feel so accomplished.” So I did it for [the Ohio Renaissance Festival] and for the Cincinnati Comic Expo.

—JACLYN YOUHANA GARVER

STUDIO WITH A VIEW

IIF YOU’VE EVER BEEN WALKING ALONG THE RIVER-FACING SIDE OF GREAT American Ball Park, chances are you’ve seen them, glistening across the water: The coveted Covington riverfront homes situated next to the confluence of the Licking and the Ohio. This four-block stretch of Riverside Drive is arguably one of the sweetest spots on the Kentucky side of the river. There’s just a small handful of houses on the street, and it’s rare that one of them goes on the market—until now.

When this stately Riverside home was built in 1917, it was divided into four apartments that were used, for years, as artist studios. Rumor has it that the apartments pulled in a very specific type of resident: students of Frank Duveneck, likely drawn to the home’s large windows and abundant natural light. In the 1990s, developers combined the top two floors into one 3,400-square-foot residence. Everything was taken down to the studs and outfitted with all the trappings of a modern

single-family home, from new electric and plumbing to the glossy, ultra-modern kitchen.

That classic atelier charm remains, with grand 14-foot ceilings, French doors, and the soaring windows that the artists of the 1910s treasured. The roomy owner’s suite features a walk-in closet and en suite library-slash-study, complete with built-in bookcases. Just off the living space, a covered veranda offers ample space for entertaining, outdoor dining, or taking in panoramic views of the river and city. The house literally peeks into GABP, so you can look forward to Friday night fireworks all summer long.

And the lucky buyer doesn’t just get the two-story condo, but also the smaller firstfloor unit, which agents say could be rented out, used as a home office, or turned into a guest suite. Given how many friends and family members will inevitably come flocking to stay…we’d definitely recommend the guest suite.

A HAVEN FOR ARTISTS IN THE DAYS OF DUVENECK, THIS COVINGTON CONDO HAS HISTORY, CHARM, AND UNBEATABLE VIEWS. —LAUREN FISHER

COLLEGE HILL RENAISSANCE

A NEIGHBORHOOD BUSINESS DISTRICT HAS COME ROARING BACK TO LIFE. —LAUREN FISHER

Hamilton Ave., (513) 541-1269, fern-shop.com

After a breakout debut year, Japanese comic book shop Manga

This botanical paradise is definitely not your mother’s plant shop. Located in a former gas station (don’t let that dissuade you), Fern features everything you’d expect—a curated collection of houseplants and planters—but also stationery, candles, and home décor. And the fun isn’t limited to the store. The expert team offers a variety of popup workshops and extra

services, like custom plant installations and at-home plant checkups to keep your jungle in tip-top shape. 6040

Manga (still the only one in the city) has moved into a bigger and better space on Hamilton Avenue, just a block away from the original storefront. But fame hasn’t gone to this shop’s head. Owner and manga guru C. Jacqueline Wood has curated a collection that has a little bit of everything, whether you’re a shōnen fan or a shōjo reader. Totally new to the medium? Manga Manga has plenty of volumes perfect for beginners. Trust us— you’ll be hooked. 5908 Hamilton Ave., (513) 429-8361, mangacin cinnati.com

Located in the heart of College Hill, this incubator space gives small business owners a chance to test their own storefronts for six months, totally rentfree. The most recent round includes Learning CURVE, a toy shop that encourages learning and development through sensory play; Pour Candle Co., a line of luxury candles and home fragrances; and In Fly We Trust, which has launched a series of self-development coloring books. 5846 Hamilton Ave., chcurc. com/ourshop

Born out of owner DeAngela “DeeDee”

Gill’s kitchen (and her passion for healthy, happy skin), this allnatural skincare shop has a little something for everyone’s selfcare sensibilities. Shop the signature collection of plantbased body butters, bath bombs, oils, and lip balms, and choose from cozy scents like Honey Almond and Sweater Weather—perfect for settling into the new season. 1612 Cedar Ave., (513) 2858338, deedeesbutter bar.com

a skein from a hank, you’re bound to find something among the aisles and aisles of yarns and fabrics at Silk Road Textiles. With its emphasis on ethically traded fabric, this Hamilton Avenue shop is a beloved resource for Cincinnati’s crafting community. Beginners and pros alike can take classes in everything from quilting and knitting to sewing and hand-stitching at the in-store studio. Silk Road even offers a special sewing summer camp for kids and teens. 6106 Hamilton Ave., (513) 541-3700, silkroadcincinnati.com

After 17 years on one of the most coveted corners in town, beloved College Hill Coffee Co. has been reborn as Luminary by La Terza. Pop in for a cortado on your caffeine break or stick around for a pastry, breakfast sandwich, or chicken salad croissant. 6128 Hamilton Ave., (513) 542-2739, luminarybylaterza. com

Even if you don’t know

The heart of College Hill is about to get a whole lot fuller. Named for the intersection of Hamilton and North Bend Avenues, the $9.5 million HaNoBe development is just one of several groundbreaking projects spearheaded by the College Hill Community Urban Redevelopment Corporation. The mixed-use development features 171 market-rate apartments atop brand new retail and dining.

1. FERN

2. MANGA MANGA

3. OURSHOP

4. DEEDEE’S BUTTERBAR

5. SILK ROAD TEXTILES

As I left the Cinemark Theater in Oakley after viewing the new Mission Impossible movie, I saw a flyer taped to the wall. It told me to not discuss the movie’s ending while leaving, because people in line might overhear. Is this flyer the newest form of social engineering from corporate hell, or something local? —CITIZEN SANE

DEAR CITIZEN:

Movie audiences have been politely bludgeoned into behaving ever since Ladies, kindly remove your hats appeared onscreen in the 1920s. That such pestering now follows you out the door is a new boundary crossed. In 1939, no flyers ordered parents to tape a kid’s mouth shut af-

ter the movie so they wouldn’t blurt, “Wow, it was all just her dream after the tornado!”

A Cinemark official requesting anonymity told the Doctor that the flyer you saw was printed at the Oakley venue and did not descend from a corporate labyrinth. He/she/they further implied that theater employees themselves may have inspired the flyer. And who can blame them? They’re overly exposed to afterchatter. Nobody wants their movie ruined by some jerk who blabs about Darth Vader being Luke’s father or that Soylent Green is people or that Snape killed Dumbledore or that Bruce Willis was dead the whole time. Please, people, be more considerate!

A defunct funeral home in Westwood is about to reopen as a pair of restaurants. The long, sprawling building looks to me like it started out as two separate houses that later grew a center section and became one place. Did the homes get married and have a baby? What’s the history there?

—HOUSING SPOUSING

DEAR SPOUSING:

This sounds like another movie: Two Restaurants, a Wedding, and a Funeral Home. But don’t submit your screenplay just yet; Hollywood has enough problems right now.

You’re right: Two separate homes arose at 3040 and 3042 Harrison Ave. in Westwood around 1924. Their occupants, however, came from one family. Hamilton County still officially describes this entire area as Ruehlmann’s Homestead because the large Ruehlmann clan, um, ruehled it. You will be unsurprised to learn that a hefty Ruehlmann income stream came from undertaking, and that both addresses hosted funerals long before any formal business emerged.

After the Ruehlmanns, the Wain A. Bolton Funeral Home opened at 3042 Harrison in 1938. Mr. and Mrs. Bolton lived upstairs, eyeing their neighbor and eventually buying him out. James Lunsford later joined by marriage, and the Bolton

Dr. Know is Jay Gilbert, radio personality and advertising prankster. Submit your questions about the city’s peculiarities at drknow@cincinnati magazine.com

& Lunsford architectural prestochange-o happened somewhere in the 1960s. The now-dead-and-buried funeral home will become two new restaurants by next year—if all those permits and regulations don’t send everyone to an early grave.

My young grandson recently learned about the days when newspaper classified ads blatantly said “white only” for jobs and apartments. I’m glad he has trouble imagining such a thing. But now I wonder exactly when The Cincinnati Enquirer finally stopped this awful practice. Do you know?

DEAR APPLY:

This was a diffi cult assignment, on several levels. For starters, searching old newspapers online is a sloppy process. The Doctor searched “white only” for the entire archive of The Cincinnati Enquirer and received a staggeringly disturbing number of hits: 38,423.

After changing his underwear and looking more closely, he saw that a high percentage of “white only” results were quite innocent, such as ads selling Socks, white only, sizes 9 to 11. Also, blurry scans tagged “white only” when the actual phrase was “which only” or “while only.” We can’t, however, brush aside everything. Countless ads for jobs, homes, and more were openly exclusionary. This began soon after the Civil War, trying to be genteel: Rooms for respectable white people (1888). The mask slipped over time: Seamstress wanted, white—only a first-class one (1910). In later years, there was a tiny ray of light: Apartment, colored or white (1955).

Although this practice mostly disappeared after the civil rights legislation of 1964, stuff like White girl wanted for babysitting slipped under the radar for another year. And sneaky coded wording lasted much longer: In real estate, Churches nearby usually meant No Jews. Still longing for those good old days?

BY JUDI KETTELER

The Sound of Graying

HOW TO NAVIGATE THE PERSONAL AND PUBLIC POLITICS OF HAIR.

FOR YEARS, I COULD NOT IMAGINE SUCCUMBING TO GRAY HAIR. IT WAS FINE FOR OTHER people. You know, older people. For women of a certain age with gorgeous silver manes, like Helen Mirren and Donna Brazile. But not me.

I was a brown-haired girl, and other than that blonde phase in my twenties that’s what I would stay. Even when gray hair sprouted in wiry little strands in my thirties, it didn’t seem real. It was almost novel. Gray hair, how hilarious, I thought.

But by my forties, I wasn’t laughing anymore. My gray was becoming intractable, and I was spending hundreds of dollars a year at the salon and root touching at home constantly. Even during COVID, which was the ultimate permission for forsaking hair-coloring routines, I just root-touched at home more.

My sister, who is 10 years older than me, transitioned to gray a few years ago, and she

looked great. Still, it seemed unthinkable to me. I had little kids. I was the baby of my family. I did pull-ups regularly. OK, not actual pull-ups, but push-ups. Lots of pushups. I was too young, and as much as I was trying to embrace midlife, my dark hair felt like my last stand. I wasn’t ready.

I can do it when I’m 50. I’ll be ready then This is what I told myself every time I looked in the mirror, yanked out a gray wisp at my temple, or bought another box of Clairol Nice’n Easy Root Touch-Up in Medium Golden Brown. Like driving at 16 or voting at 18 or drinking at 21, 50 was the age when permission would be granted. I wasn’t sure what would be different when I crossed the half-century mark, but I assumed it would be some general feeling of surrender. I’d pull up to the mirror, hum that Aimee Mann song about how it’s not going to stop so I should give up, and then do just that: Give up and gray up.

But even as I said it, I thought, I won’t be able to do it. I would look at the image on my phone screen saver, a selfie of my husband and me, my dark hair cascading effortlessly, and think about how sad I would surely feel to say goodbye to that brown-haired girl. Seven years older than me, my husband was already a hunky silver. But what would I be?

I SPUN AROUND ON THE HAMSTER wheel of hiding gray every eight weeks, then six weeks, then four weeks, until it seemed there were only about two good weeks before I spotted the dreaded root regrowth. But I couldn’t let go.

Until, one day, I could. That’s how we roll in this family. We get our kicks from sudden changes of heart. Like my 12-yearold daughter, who vowed she never ever wanted to go to sleepaway camp, right up until the evening she charged into the living room and said, “I want to go to sleepaway camp! Please sign me up right now!”

My moment came in January. I’d like to say I woke up New Year’s Day with a vision, but it actually happened in the car on the drive to my salon that first week. I was on Madison Road, waiting to turn left, and in the space of waiting for the green light, I thought, What if today was the day I did it?

I walked in and told Megan, who had been coloring my hair forever, “I think I’m ready to go gray.”

“Yeah, you are!” she said. She saw it in

my eyes. “I kinda love this gray,” she said, her fingers combing through the strands around my temples.

“I do, too,” I said, and shockingly I (mostly) meant it. For the next few hours, she stripped out the color that had been added—so much color—to get closer to my natural color. Then she added some lowlights for the gray to blend better as it grew in more and more.

I repeated that same process in May— more lowlights, more blending—and if all goes as planned, I’ll do it at least one more time. And then nature is in charge. Nature has always been in charge. At age 48, two

years before my target, I’m just giving up the fight against this particular enterprise.

What’s interesting is that the graying process doesn’t exactly feel like giving up. It doesn’t bring to mind Aimee Mann’s somber tones or a sad inevitability. It’s more of a

on middle-age angst.

Kelly talks about her own consideration of going gray and realizes she isn’t ready yet. But she refl ects on the fact that, for women in power or in the media—and definitely for women in Washington, D.C.— going gray can place too much negative attention on them and even make them seem less powerful (as opposed to men seeming more powerful as they grow more silver). Does Nancy Pelosi have even a spot of gray at 83? No, she does not. I’m guessing it’s simply more expedient for her, and for many women in the public eye, to avoid the conversation altogether.

Donna Summer song. And not “Last Dance.” More like “Hot Stuff.”

WOMEN’S HAIR IS EMOTIONALLY AND politically complicated. I recently read Mary Louise Kelly’s new book, It. Goes. So. Fast., an account of her efforts to slow down and appreciate her oldest son’s last year of high school as well as a general meditation

Because it is often a conversation. A sideways look. A suggestion that something might be amiss. My 14-year-old son recently asked—out of nowhere, in the middle of a doctor’s office visit—“What’s up with your hair, Mom? Why is it a bunch of different colors?” He seemed genuinely bewildered. As a self-employed writer who’s worked mostly from home over the

by Heidi Schreck

book by Zina Camblin music & lyrics by David Kisor

WORLD PREMIERE MUSICAL

HAIR IS NEVER JUST HAIR. EVEN AS IT’S A SPACE FOR EXPRESSION, HAIR IS LAYERED WITH EXPECTATIONS.

RACE, CLASS, AGE, RELIGION, YOU NAME IT.

past 20 years, I don’t have coworkers. But I can imagine, if I did, the little glances I might get. I already steel myself for the momentary “Oh!” looks I’ll get from people who haven’t seen me for a while.

That said, little notice has been paid to my hair in the scheme of things, and I’m mostly unqualifi ed to talk about what it really feels like to be judged for hair, given what Black women have historically had to navigate and still have to navigate. First, there is the general idiocy of people— mostly white people—about anything to do with textured hair. Black women also regularly face all manner of comments, unwelcome hands touching and tugging, and downright harassment and employment discrimination.

The point is: Hair is never just hair. Even as it’s a space for expression—what Cincinnatian doesn’t love Molly Wellmann’s fuchsia hair?—hair is layered with expectations. Gender, race, class, age, religion. You name the category, and there’s something

going on when it comes to hair.

SEVERAL MONTHS AND SEVERAL INCHES of gray roots in, I’m glad to report that l mostly feel a sense of liberation. Of saying, “This is me. Here I am. Women are allowed to age. Got something to say about it? Go eff yourself.”

But I’d be lying if I said I didn’t miss my dark hair. If I said I didn’t look at pictures, even from a year ago, and notice the effect of gray hair on my face. How it feels like “before” and “after.” I worry that my hair looks like some giant mistake. Like I’m walking around in the world and just haven’t noticed what’s going on.

The other day, I was finishing up a long run. It was brutally hot, and I looked a fright—red face, sweat dripping, hair in a messy bun, strands of brown and blonde and gray matted to my head. An older man who lives in my neighborhood stopped me. He looks like Sam Elliot, so we’ll call him Sam Elliot. “I just wanted to tell you, I’ve

been seeing you out here running for so long,” Sam said. “I see your transformation.”

I’ve been running for almost 30 years, so I don’t exactly know what transformation he was talking about. But I started doing weight training about a year ago, so maybe it was that. Or maybe it’s that this graying hair makes me suddenly look like I’m in incredible shape “for my age.”

Either way, it wasn’t creepy how he said it. It didn’t feel inappropriate, or malegazey, or anything like the HR guy who used to stare openly at my breasts. It was more like, “I see you working so hard on these streets we share.” It made me feel seen.

Do I need Sam, or anyone, to see me? No, but it’s kind of nice. Because the real fear of gray hair is being invisible, isn’t it? A ghost of your former self, fading into the background. Like that Visage song, “Fade to Grey,” with its tinny new wave beat.

Except I’m an ’80s girl, and I can rock that song. Meet me on the dance floor, and we’ll show the young ones how to shine.

The Queen City’s university since 1819.

For over 200 years, UC remains at the forefront of innovation, improving the physical, environmental, social, and economic health of our city. In fiscal year 2022, UC sparked $10.6 billion in economic impact to the region.

PIZZA!

By 35

A Tavola

When it comes to pizza in Cincinnati, A Tavola sits at the head of the table. Pizzas bake for just a few minutes inside the wood-fired oven at this Madeira spot to achieve that crunchy-yet-fluff y-inside Neapolitan crust. Pies range from rustic to inventive—go spicy alla vodka with a Pizza Francisco, try sweet jam and onions on the Fig & Prosciutto, or build your own pie from nearly 30 toppings. You really can’t go wrong, and the menu encourages you to share a couple pies, pastas, and starters with everyone at the table: arancini (fried risotto balls), potato croquettes that lay on a bed of buttery paprika aioli, classic Italian Cacio e Pepe. Just ask the knowledgeable bar staff for help with the wine pairings.

Two Cities Pizza

Even though the Chicago-style pizza at this Mason pie palace is loaded with cheese and toppings, the thick and buttery crust has a solid snap when you cut through—no soggy bottoms here! The veggie toppings are cooked but still crisp, and there’s the perfect amount of stringy cheese in the middle. The New York–style pies are solid, too, with a crust that’s got more chew, but too much body to actually fold. We tried the Miss Brooklyn, with grapes, arugula, goat cheese, and a balsamic drizzle. Totally tasty, if not your typical slice.

Camporosso

This former gas station now houses two Italian ovens imported by owners Eric and Amy Redfield. (“Camporosso” is Italian for “red field.”) One oven cooks up classic American pies while the other delivers artisan wood-fired pizzas. For something special, the meat-lovers pizza is a huge upgrade from the usual—perfectly crispy crust, cupped and charred pepperoni, sopressata salami, sausage, and applewood-smoked bacon. The best part? You can sit at the bar, enjoy the extensive wine and bourbon selection, and watch your pizza get made from start to finish.

4

Joe’s Pizza Napoli

If not for the line stretching out the door on a Friday night, Joe’s Pizza Napoli might be fairly unassuming. Joe’s family has been slinging meatballs and sauce for four generations (the house marinara is fittingly called the “Gen 4” sauce), tracing its roots back to the Italian city of Cutro. The highly recommended Viva Las Vegas, Joe’s entry to the 2021 International Pizza Expo Competition, is a brilliant hodgepodge of meats and cheeses atop generous dollops of Gen 4 sauce and perfectly charred crust, all sprinkled with Calabrian chiles and topped with a heap of dressed arugula. Makes the line out the door totally worth it.

5

Lucy Blue

Lucy Blue pizzas bring a lot to the table. A chewy crust supports gourmet toppings, you can see the seasoning, and its pizzas even reheat well for breakfast. Fan of large, old-school pepperoni? This spot can make your dreams come true. It’s worth visiting in-person for takeout, even if you don’t plan to stay and sip a glass of wine. The folks here love the space and the food Lucy Blue makes, and it shows.

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town . AfteralongfightagainstMotherNature,it’ s alwaysthepiethatIbringhome!You can’tdoanybetter . ”

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Bircus Brewing Co.

The greatest acts in Ludlow can be found on the stage at Bircus Brewing, but its wood-fired pizza might just steal the show. The Goetta Grip pie is just so Cincinnati—mounds of goetta, smoked mozz, garlic oil, and a heaping scoop of crushed Grippo’s Bar-B-Q chips on top—and is as flavorful as it is breathtaking. The thin crust is delightfully crispy but not overdone and can support the toppings on a variety of loaded pies like the fresh ingredients on a Virginia or a spicy, carby Hot Potato. Add tasty craft beer, high-flying shows, and friendly service, and you’ll want to stay awhile under the big top.

Your Mom’s Pizzeria

The unassuming pizza shop might be no-frills—think paper plates, Cokes in plastic bottles, cannoli in a case by the counter, and a cool but tiny dining room—but make no mistake, Your Mom’s Pizzeria has served five-star ’za since it opened in April. Using a family recipe and a special blend of mozz and provolone, the Iannis bake their New York–style crust until soft in the middle with a crispy crunch. The Shiesty (named after Joe Burrow) comes with sweet peppadew peppers that explode in your mouth, little clouds of ricotta, pepperoni, and a drizzle of Mike’s Hot Honey sauce. It’s like a touchdown for your tastebuds.

8

Trophy Pizza

We’re going to go out on a limb and say this is probably the most authentic New York–style pizza in the tri-state. We know, we know—it’s a big claim for a joint that just opened six months ago. But with a native east coaster as a co-owner (Jim Rowe grew up in New Jersey and lived in Brooklyn), these foldable, floppy slices are as big as your head with just the right ratio of cheese to sauce to crispy pepperoni. If you’re not into the slice life, you’ll be more than happy with the Grandma Pie (garlic, olive oil, and whole milk mozz).

Taglio

With 13 specialty Detroit-style pies, Taglio truly stands out in the crowded Cincinnati pizza scene. You can build your own, but the pepperoni and hot honey is a great place to start if you’re unfamiliar with the rectangular-shaped, sauceon-top version of pizza popularized in The Motor City. You can also try all of the specialty pizzas in a New York style, with the sauce in its traditional spot. Try the hot honey there, too.

Poseidon’s Pizza

Whether this pizza is for or from the gods is up for debate, but either way it’s a suitable offering for a first date or your Friday night party posse. Anything off the menu will put you in the good graces of your muse: These shareable pizzas are conversation-starters. While the crust is surprisingly fluff y without going bready, you might not notice under curious toppings like Grippo’s potato chips, hot honey, and Cincinnati-style chili.

T O M O R R O W TOMORROW D AY DAY

AIR FRYER

Preheat the air fryer to 350 degrees. Place your leftovers in a single layer and cook for three to four minutes.

CAST IRON SKILLET

Heat a cast iron skillet over medium-high heat on the stovetop. Put in your pizza, cover, and lower heat to medium. Let it warm for three to five minutes so the toppings get melty and the crust gets crisp.

OVEN

Put your leftovers on a pan in a cold oven, then set to 375 degrees. Remove once the oven comes up to temperature and enjoy.

PIZZA EGGS

Cork N Crust

Wine and pizza are on menus everywhere, but Cork N Crust holds both in high regard. It’s a place that named one of its pies after Chardonnay and takes care to list ideal wine pairings on the menu. The scratch-made thin crust comes out of the oven with just the right amount of char, loaded with gourmet toppings from fresh charcuterie fare to hearty Italian favorites. The Bellevue pie comes loaded with meats atop mozzarella, provolone, and perfectly balanced tomato sauce, and the aforementioned Chardonnay has a garlic-infused olive oil base with more roasted garlic, mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, and rosemary. Cheers.

Take a leftover slice of pizza, chop it into bite-size pieces, and throw it in a skillet with butter until the cheese starts to melt and the crust turns golden brown. Then crack an egg on top so that it seeps into the crust. Stir until eggs are scrambled.

ILLUSTRATION BY JESSICA DUNHAM

Y O U L I K E YOU LIKE How

it

New York

Features a thin crust complete with bubbly mozzarella and various toppings nearly reaching the edge of the pie, which is typically 18 inches or more. Sold whole or by the (generous) slice.

Sicilian

This square-shaped pie spends extra time rising to achieve its chewy-yet-airy texture before getting topped with cheese then sauce.

Detroit

Greek

Originating in New England, it’s known for extra olive oil in the dough, olives, bell peppers, feta, and spinach.

The Gruff

Next time you’re pregaming a Reds or Bengals game, skip The Banks and head just across the Roebling Bridge. The first place you’ll see is a deli/ grocery/bar/bottle shop/pizzeria with three yellow goats on the front. Burgers, shakes, sandwiches, and charcuterie boards abound, but the winner is certainly its brick-oven pizzas. The olive oil smoked brisket pizza is the perfect mix of smoky, sweet, and savory, but the best option is the truffle sausage. Thank us later.

Padrino

For more than a decade, Padrino’s Milford location has been a spot for family outings, first dates, and everything in between. Check out the specialty pizzas: The Bruschetta supersizes the classic appetizer with a garlic butter base and oodles of melty mozzarella and fresh basil. Mediterranean lovers, meanwhile, will be head-over-heels for Nick the Greek, topped with feta, olives, grilled chicken, and all the fixin’s you’d expect. No wonder it’s a menu mainstay.

Thick crust baked on an oil-coated steel pan until the mass amounts of cheese caramelize over the pan’s sides, ensuring a crispy, nearly burnt texture.

Ramundo’s

This New York slice joint is an east-side classic, sporting exposed brick and speedy service. There’s probably not a better deal on this list—nab two slices and a drink for just $10. One tasty specialty pizza is named after native east-sider and former NFL center Austin King, with sausage, mushrooms, onions, peppers, pineapple, pepperoni, and bacon. The bestknown pizza, however, is the Paisano: white sauce, prosciutto, spinach, tomatoes, goat cheese, and the most sesame-seed-covered crust you’ve ever seen.

Chicago (deep dish)

Pie crust filled with alternating cheese and toppings, and topped with crushed tomatoes.

Neapolitan

Cooked for 60 to 90 seconds at high temperatures after the dough is kneaded for even baking. Signature woodburning oven char.

St. Louis

Cracker-thin crust topped with sweet sauce and Provel cheese, then cut into squares.

California

Daring, bizarre ingredients find their place atop a blend of New York and Neapolitan-style crust.

Roman

Cooked in a rectangular shape with thin crust, this one contains lots of sauce and minimal cheese.

The Works

Walking into The Works on a Saturday night is like walking into a family-style dinner where everyone’s got a seat at the table. Thanks to the brick oven, pizzas come out at rapid-fire speed. The Commish and the simple pepperoni are among the most popular, but the Mediterranean, with its juicy chunks of artichoke and black olives, and the Chicken Bianca, a white-sauce pie topped with veggies and bacon bits, left us with empty plates and only a single leftover slice for the next day.

16

Trotta’s

This place takes carryout to the extreme with a pizza drive-through. Grab a hot slice of cheese, pepperoni, or the special with your six pack and be on your way in two minutes. Unless you’ve driven through Trotta’s, you wouldn’t know they have an extensive menu with a lot of toppings available, since there’s almost no online presence. But something like the BBQ Chicken pizza catches your eye and the next thing you know you’ve ordered, exited the drive through and are waiting for delivery in the lot.

Brooklyn Pizza & Pasta

Large foldable slices are the specialty at this nondescript strip-mall storefront, and they’ll transport you to the namesake borough in a New York minute. The chewy crust and cheese-to-sauce ratio are spot on. Choose from 16 signature pies with the same excellent foundation if you’re a bit hungrier—from a 10-inch personal size up to 16 inches. Service veers toward the “Whaddya want?” approach, which only adds more NYC authenticity.

T O P TOP F R O M FROM

Pickles

Salty, vinegary goodness combined with bread and cheese evokes sinking your teeth into a greasy cheeseburger (sans burger), with a satisfying crunch in every bite. Add it to your pizza at N.Y.P.D. Pizza , The Slice , or Terry’s Grocery and Pizza if you’re up for a drive.

Mac ’N Cheese

What pairs well with cheese pizza? Macaroni…and more cheese! Mikey’s Late Night Slice levels up its mac ’n cheese offerings with a different pizza variation each week in March during its “Month of Mac” event.

Potatoes

Potatoes on pizza dates back to the 18th or 19th century in Italy and we have several local choices where we can experience it. Try it with roasted potato coins at Mad Monks , crispy waffle fries at Mac’s Pizza Pub , or mashed potatoes at Two Cities

Veggies

Seasonal vegetables add freshness to any pizza. Chameleon Pizza offers a rotating selection, including bean ragu, squash, greens, and more.

Apples

Pizza doesn’t have to stop after the main course. You can find apple pie pizza (sliced apples, whipped cream, caramel drizzle, and a cinnamon brown sugar crumb) on the dessert menu at Strong’s Brick Oven Pizza

St. Francis Apizza

This East Hyde Park carryout spot has a bit of a monopoly on New Haven–style apizza—though here, it’s served with the caveat that it’s “New Haven-ish.” Cheese lovers may balk at the idea of the nontraditional pie, served with double tomato sauce and barely noticeable traces of pecorino Romano. But there’s a little something for everyone at St. Francis. The sauce-less Fancy White, with its melty blobs of mozzarella and ricotta atop light and airy hand-tossed crust, is the polar opposite of the New Haven–ish, but it’s equally delicious.

Rosie’s Italian Kitchen

Owned by the same couple who runs Crown Republic Gastropub, Losanti, and two other restaurants, Rosie’s has transitioned from a casual New York–style slice spot to a comfy family restaurant with a full antipasti, pasta, and steak/ chicken/seafood main course menu. Luckily, there are still three 12-inch pizzas available: Honey (pepperoni and hot honey), Tie-Dye (vodka/pesto sauce), and Margarita. They’re beautifully wood-fired with a nice char on the crust, though still chewy toward the middle—and they reheat nicely the next day.

Fireside Pizza

It’s funny how the pizzeria in a renovated firehouse feels like it’s been in Walnut Hills forever, now that the surrounding neighborhood is going through such a transformation. Fireside keeps churning out amazing wood-fired pies in its unique space; it was the only Cincinnati spot named in Yelp’s “Top 100 U.S. Restaurants” list last year. Popular options include the white pizza topped with roasted garlic and three cheeses (mozzarella, provolone, parmesan); the Greek, featuring spinach, red onions, kalamata olives, and feta; and the Eli’s BBQ pizza with oven-roasted chicken topped by Eli’s signature rub and BBQ sauce. The bar carries over two dozen local craft beers.

Queen City Pizza

Though Queen City Pizza has a few tables, they’re not really for eating. They’re more for the locals waiting for carryout. The staff here is proud of the 30-year history of the place. You can tell because they make four fresh doughs every day: traditional, thick, thin, and Chicago. The surprise is that the Greek pizza is so popular here, since it’s garlic-and-olive-oil based with no red sauce. (But we recommend you get a little on the side for dipping.)

Adriatico’s

This Clifton Heights classic’s pizza has been a favorite among University of Cincinnati students and alumni for decades (more than four, at this point), and when you order it with the Sicilian-style bread, you’ll easily understand why. It’s thick, so thick that it won’t collapse under the generous helpings of cheese, sauce, and toppings. For the most bang for your buck, check out the Inflation Fighter in “Bearcat” size. It’s a whopping 30 slices covered in pepperoni, ham, beef, sausage, green olives, black olives, green peppers, onions, and mushrooms for about $60. Enough to feed a football team.

Fratelli’s Pizzeria

This strip-mall joint in West Chester has New York–style pies that would be right at home in the Big Apple. It nails the crust: crispy yet foldable with a slight char on the bottom. And the clean, sweetly acidic tomato sauce will at least transport you to Little Italy, if not the big one. In true New York fashion, Fratelli’s sells slices. They’re only available at lunchtime on the weekends, though—a gentle reminder that you’re not actually in Manhattan.

Krimmer’s Italianette

No matter where it’s located, Krimmer’s has a reputation as the neighborhood pizza place. This applies to the Silverton spot that’s been there more than 60 years as well as the more recent North College Hill location. It’s been around long enough that the customers and staff call each other by name. The dough is always fresh, the service always friendly, and the specials are always interesting, such as The Big Gripp: grilled chicken, crispy bacon, topped with mozzarella, provolone, ranch dressing, and crushed Grippo’s Bar-B-Q chips.

Mad Monks Pizza

Most of the pie names here are inspired by songs from the band Phish, but not the Gripponator—the whitesauced chicken barbecue pizza topped with Grippo’s Bar-B-Q chips is a different kind of funk. New York–style crust gets its crisp in a real pizza oven (no conveyors here) but be warned: The crust on our #1 IRT Supreme got pretty floppy in the center, whether due to too much sauce and toppings or an over-enthusiastic toss, we’re not sure. Still, it’s an enjoyable pie, made even better by a pint from 16 Lots Brewing Company.

C H A I N CHAIN Gang

Dewey’s

Our fave of the local chain pizza joints, Dewey’s stays packed with families looking for creative options to satisfy even the smallest pizza eater. The best white sauce in town, hands down.

Jet’s

With more than 40 years in the pizza business and locations in 21 states, this chain is primarily known for its Detroit-style pies, made with a proprietary blend of milled flour in signature steel pans.

LaRosa’s

This locally owned pizzeria has been serving up pies and other Italian favorites in the tri-state for nearly 70 years, making it a hometown favorite, especially with native Cincinnatians. They’re sweet on that sweet pizza sauce!

MOD Pizza

Fast casual pies at fast casual prices, MOD is known for its build-your-own pizzas (think Chipotle) with more than 40 toppings and eight sauces to choose from.

Goodfellas

With 10 locations in four states, this Lexington-based chain can calm your pizza cravings while bar hopping. Walk up to the window and leave with a New York–style slice before imbibing your next drink.

Pies and Pints

This spot—which has more than 20 specialty pies, like grape and gorgonzola and street corn—has 14 locations in five states.

Pieology Pizzeria

This California import (with around 120 locations across the country) is known for its creatively topped oven-fired pizzas. The dairy- and gluten-free options are popular.

Marco’s

Using the same sauce recipe since 1978, this joint is on par with many national chains: middle- of-the-road ’za for a reasonable price.

dRIVING CHANGE

BY CEDRIC ROSE ILLUSTRATION BY YO HOSOYAMADA

ARMED WITH 25 YEARS OF SALES TAX FUNDING, CINCINNATI METRO LOOKS TO LEAD THE REGION INTO A MORE EQUITABLE AND PROSPEROUS FUTURE— WHETHER YOU RIDE THE BUS OR NOT.

UTSIDE THE VINEYARD CHURCH’S

Healing Center in Springdale, three freshly decaled 20-foot Ram transit vans gleam in the sun. Members of the community, media, politicians, and Cincinnati Metro staff gather round for a ribbon cutting and photo op to inaugurate MetroNow!, a fleet that will eventually grow to about 50 on-demand vehicles serving six zones around Hamilton County.

Like an Uber or a Lyft, MetroNow! is summoned via smart phone (or dispatcher if you’d like to go old school). For $2 a ride, the van arrives and carries you to your destination if it’s local or, if you have farther to go, connects you to Metro’s bus network.

Metro CEO Darryl Haley steps to the mic. “Public transportation is the great equalizer,” he says. “We will use public transportation to drive equity in our region. When we envisioned what MetroNow! could look like, we looked at communities where our service was not as robust.”

They thought of young families and the elderly, he says, as well as job seekers who can’t aff ord to drive or to take a ride-share service. “Now, if you live, work, or play in Sharonville, Northgate, Mt. Healthy, Forest Park, Springfield Township, Glendale, Woodlawn, Colerain Township, or North College Hill, you’ll be among the first to be able to seamlessly utilize MetroNow! service.”

“All right,” says the woman standing next to me. “Finally!”

MetroNow! is just the beginning of what Cincinnati Metro, which turns 50 this year, is rolling out across the county thanks to passage of Issue 7 in 2020. The new countywide sales tax increase funds SORTA, Metro’s parent agency, for 25 years and supports an ambitious vision, “Reinventing Metro,” that hopes to spur community change beyond just improving bus service.

Even if you aren’t a bus rider, you can expect to feel the effects of what Haley and his team imagine for our region’s roads over the next two decades.

» IN 1972, IN THE MIDST OF A GLOBAL OIL crisis, Cincinnati residents approved an earnings tax to fund the foundering Cincinnati Transportation Inc., a private bus

company created from the city’s previous streetcar lines. The following year, the freshly minted Southwest Ohio Transit Authority (SORTA) took over Cincinnati’s bus service, and “Queen City Metro” was born. The acquisition immediately lowered fares, which had been some of the highest in the nation, to 25 cents a ride.

For most of its five decades in operation, the city earnings tax remained the agency’s main source of funding. It wasn’t enough. Several attempts to remedy a perpetual funding shortage failed, the most recent being the 2002 Metro Moves plan, which sought to beef up funding, improve bus service, and add light rail to meet a growing region’s needs.

In March 2020, in an election where turnout was hampered by the COVID pandemic, Hamilton County voters approved Issue 7 by a narrow margin. The levy replaces the portion of the city earnings tax that funds SORTA, which oversees Metro and countywide paratransit services, with a 0.8 percent sales tax

PEOPLE MOVERS

Issue 7, which passed in 2020, increased the county's sales tax to fund improvements to Metro, including updated buses and the new MetroNow! on-demand service.

increase. Three-quarters of the money collected each year goes to improving Metro bus services, while 25 percent goes to a transit infrastructure fund (TIF) that directs money to improving roads, sidewalks, bridges, crosswalks, and other projects falling within three quarters of a mile of a bus route. That includes the Western Hills Viaduct, which received $205 million from the fund in 2021. Fiscal conservatives who balked at previous transit levies liked that Issue 7 reduced the city earnings tax.

Haley joined Metro in 2006 after returning to the region to help family following the death of his father. After stints as executive vice president and chief operating offi cer, he was named CEO and general manager in November 2019. He says the difference transit can make in a person’s life is personal—while a student at Withrow High School, he rode the bus every day to his first job, a role that led to a 28-year career in the healthcare supply sector. “I wouldn’t have had that job if I didn’t have the ability to catch the bus,” he says, recalling that the experience instilled a strong sense of how public transit drives equity.

“But even though the country had changed and our region had changed since 1972, Metro was still on the same funding system,” he says. CONTINUED ON PAGE 74

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION IS THE GREAT EQUALIZER.

WE WILL USE PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION TO DRIVE EQUITY IN OUR REGION. WHEN WE ENVISIONED WHAT METRONOW! COULD LOOK LIKE, WE LOOKED AT COMMUNITIES WHERE OUR SERVICE WAS NOT AS ROBUST.

—DARRYL HALEY, METRO CEO

From his first public appearance as music director at Lumenocity to his final season in Cincinnati, opening this month, Louis Langrée brought a new spark to the Cincinnati Symphony Orchestra. And he learned to be a Cincinnatian.

BY RICK PENDER | PHOTOGRAPH BY CLAUDIA HERSHNER

Thousands of people crowded onto the Washington Park lawn to watch elaborate projection-mapped images dance across Music Hall’s facade. Cincinnati Pops conductor John Morris Russell heralded his arrival with a jaunty run-through of the 1960s hit tune “Louie Louie.”

The immense audience cheered, and Langrée suddenly felt that he’d come home— even though he was a long way from his native Alsace region in France. After the crowd settled down, he led the full orchestra in pieces by Tchaikovsky, Copland, Beethoven, and Ravel to accompany the projections.

Today, as he begins his 11th and final season conducting the CSO, Langrée, 62, is truly a recognized public figure in Cincinnati. He’s the respected leader of the city’s largest arts organization, yes, but also someone you might have bumped into at Walnut Hills High School or a farmers’ market.

He spent his early career conducting orchestras and opera companies in Europe and the United Kingdom, and his first U.S. conducting appearance was in 1991 at the Spoleto Festival in Charleston, South Carolina. He became music director of New York City’s Mostly Mozart Festival in 2003, which he continued to lead while living and working here. He’s given up both U.S.-based posts to return to France, where he’s been named a Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur and an Officier des Arts et des Lettres. Langrée now will focus on one full-time job: director of the Théâtre National de l’Opéra Comique in Paris,

a position he’s held since 2021.

Saying he hopes to continue performing with the CSO as a guest conductor, Langrée plans to visit Cincinnati as often as possible. He and his wife, Aimée, raised two children here, in a beautiful old house in Walnut Hills. Living in the city while leading its orchestra, he says, was the only way to be fully engaged. “We found, by pure chance, this wonderful house, which was kind of a dream for me,” he says. “How lucky I have been every day. I loved this historic house, built in 1897—two years older than the Cincinnati Symphony Orchestra.”

His connection with Cincinnati began on his first visit to interview for the music director position. On a taxi ride from the airport, his driver, hearing Langrée’s French accent, asked if he was coming to work for Procter & Gamble. “I said, No, I come for the symphony,” he recalls. The driver responded enthusiastically, “Oh, the symphony! It’s wonderful.” Langrée thought, “Wow! A taxi driver who is a music lover. He told me, No, it’s actually not my thing. I prefer baseball and football But I know the orchestra is great.” That resonated with Langrée. “It’s a shared pride that the orchestra is important,” he says.

Thinking of his native France, he says, “In every city, the center of the city is either the cathedral or the city hall or the palace of justice. Here in the center of Cincinnati, it is Music Hall, the temple of music. The center is for the art.”

HIS FIRST VISIT TO CINCINNATI WAS AS A guest conductor in March 2011, when Langrée led the CSO for Brahms’s “Tragic Overture,” Schumann’s Cello Concerto with cellist Jian Wang, and Brahms’s First Symphony. That appearance played a part in the 27-month search for a successor to Music Director Paavo Järvi. In an April 2012 news release, arts patron Ann Sant-

Louis Langrée was introduced to the public as music director of the Cincinnati Symphony Orchestra (CSO) in July 2013, at the original Lumenocity event.

THE MELODY MAKER Louis Langrée treats his musicians at the Cincinnati Symphony Orchestra “like home,”says oboist Dwight Parry. “He’s a musical leader,but he’s more like a collaborative friend.”

en, who chaired the search committee, said, “We have an outstanding orchestra with musicians who can do anything a conductor asks them. From the first rehearsal, it was clear that Louis Langrée knew how to ask it, and the players responded. In addition to being a superb musician and an elegant conductor, Louis has compelling programming ideas and a real passion for engaging the community. He is a perfect fit for Cincinnati, and as the CSO’s Music Director he will be a tremendous addition to the community.”

Langrée lived up to that prediction and exceeded the committee’s expectations. As he launches the CSO’s 2023–2024 season this month, Santen is more convinced than ever that he was the best choice. “We were looking for somebody who could establish a rapport with the orchestra, who had experience, and knew the repertoire,” she says. “I don’t think we envisioned someone who would interface with the community in the way that Louis did. For him, this was home. He bought a house right away. He loved the history of the orchestra and the city.”

Langrée’s son and daughter attended Walnut Hills High School, where he’d occasionally appear as the guest of music teachers. His wife, Aimée, became a language teacher with Alliance Française. They shopped at Findlay Market and in nearby grocery stores. They became Cincinnatians.

Langrée’s Parisian charm, his kindness and openness, and his good-hearted nature were cited by almost everyone interviewed for this story. He simply loved getting established in the Queen City and learning the city’s history in the context of our musical traditions.

“He treats everyone within the CSO the same way, whether it’s the cleaning staff or the concertmaster,” says CSO President and CEO Jonathan Martin. “He treats people always with respect and a soft touch. That’s an attribute of his personality that makes itself known over time. His music-making is an extension of his personality.”

Violinist Tim Lees was CSO’s concertmaster when Langrée arrived and served with Santen on the search com-

mittee. He immediately admired Langrée’s honesty. “He related on the level of a human being with the musicians, not so much as a conductor who is directing us,” says Lees. “It makes you want to do things with him and for him as a musician.”

His successor as concertmaster, Stefani Matsuo, points out another quality.

“What you see from the audience when Louis is onstage is this joy and this happiness to be creating music,” she says, “That’s not a show or a put-on for an audience. That’s him.”

Langrée infused the orchestra’s musicians with his excitement and desire to experiment with new music. “His curiosity in the arts and in Cincinnati as a community is part of what makes him so likable,” says Matsuo, the CSO’s first female concertmaster. “Once he finishes a rehearsal, he continues to want to immerse himself in the community, in the orchestra family, in Cincinnati in general. That genuine quality has really been appreciated.”

Principal Oboist Dwight Parry, a longtime CSO musician, says Langrée came across right away as being down to earth. “He didn’t seem like the world-traveling, high-profile musician that he is,” he says. “Instead he appeared as a neighbor in need of a cup of sugar. He treats us like home. He’s a musical leader, but he’s

› CONTINUED ON PAGE 78

What you see from the audience when Louis is onstage is this joy and this happiness to be creating music,” says Stefani Matsuo. “That’s not a put-on for an audience. That’s him.

HOME IS WHERE THE HEART IS Louis and Aimée Langrée have raised their children, Antoine and Céleste, in a Walnut Hills home built in 1897, “two years older than the CSO,” Louis says.

This year will mark the 10th anniversary of Slice Night, and we are so grateful for your continued support of the University of Cincinnati Cancer Center through this great community event.

Together, you are helping us realize our mission to drive cancer discoveries, bring promising research to our patients, and ultimately, raise the level of cancer care throughout our region.

Funds from Slice Night continue to make state-of-the-art, multidisciplinary care accessible to our patients. This includes cancer screening and laboratory technology, patient and caregiver educational programs, and enhancements to our patient and family spaces.

We look forward to joining you in celebration of this milestone anniversary. It is sure to be a Slice Night to remember and we are most thankful for all of you being part of our team in fighting this disease.

n annual mammogram is nothing new for UC Health flight nurse Jen Miller. She has received mammograms since age 30 due to her high risk of being diagnosed with breast cancer.

“I have significant breast cancer history in my family, with my mom being diagnosed at age 45 and both grandmothers—paternal and maternal—having the same history,” Jen shares.

While performing a self-exam, Jen discovered a large lump in her left breast in the beginning of May 2022.

“It seemed to pop up overnight,” she says. She discovered the lump on a Saturday and called her OB/GYN first thing Monday morning to schedule a mammogram.

“They were pretty booked up and I could not get in for quite some time, so my friend referred me to the University of Cincinnati Cancer Center,” Jen explains. The Cancer Center provides state-of-the-art, convenient cancer care, making the most advanced treatment readily available. Highly trained physicians work collaboratively in a multidisciplinary setting to personalize the treatment for every patient.

The news of her diagnosis came fast.

“I had my mammogram and ultrasound on the same day, Friday, and was told I had cancer that afternoon,” Jen says. “I got in the next week for my biopsy and was subsequently diagnosed with stage 3 invasive ductal carcinoma.”

After breast cancer is diagnosed, the next step is to determine the stage of the disease, or how far cancer has spread in the body. Being diagnosed with stage 3 breast cancer meant Jen’s cancer had spread to surrounding tissues and her lymph nodes. The tumor was also larger than 5 centimeters in size.

Jen was fortunate the University of Cincinnati Cancer Center was able to see her quickly.

Jen was referred to Alicia Heelan, M.D., UC Health surgical oncologist and assistant professor in the Department of Surgery at the UC College of Medicine.

We see you for you.

With care that listens first to answer every question. Care that comes with built-in second options. Care that is driven by research and home to more clinical trials than anywhere else in the region. These are the nation’s top cancer experts—all in one place—and all specializing in you.

“She was so reassuring, matter-of-fact, and gave me all the answers I needed,” Jen says about Dr. Heelan. “That same day, she sent me directly to the medical oncologist to receive my plan of care for chemotherapy. I could not ask for a better care team.”

“The Cancer Center is one well-oiled machine,” Jen says, explaining that everyone on her care team regularly communicates—the left hand always knows what the right hand is doing. “You have no worrying to do, you just concentrate on getting better.”

This year, the Cancer Center received full three-year accreditation from the American College of Surgeon’s Commission on Cancer (CoC). To earn voluntary CoC accreditation, a cancer program must meet 34 CoC quality care standards and maintain levels of excellence in the delivery of comprehensive patient-centered care. The University of Cincinnati Cancer Center is one of the commission’s five oldest cancer programs.

“For cancer patients, this means plans of care are researched and studied on a consistent basis,” Jen says about the CoC accreditation. “That gives me such a sense of relief!”

better,” she says, “but I will say, cancer is not for the weak, and neither are toddlers!”

Jen credits the support of her mom, family, and friends for helping her throughout this journey. As a UC Health Air Care flight nurse, Jen has thankfully been able to continue working throughout her treatment.

“My work family has been there every step of the way and I feel like I can never repay them,” she says.

As a flight nurse, Jen has an intricate understanding of hospital systems.

“I can tell you, we can all be so proud to work for this health system,” she says. “We provide the highest standard of care in our region, and I truly love working here.”

Jen has a team of individuals who provide her with the best care possible, just as she does with her team while in fl ight.

“It is not a quick process to fight cancer, but the care team is there every step of the way. I am so thankful for the Cancer Center and UC Health,” she says.

Jen decided to share her story to spread awareness and help anyone she can along the way, emphasizing the importance of mammogram screenings.

“I was lucky to find a lump. That’s why mammograms are so important,” she says. “You may not get a warning like I did—please do not miss a screening.”

While Jen’s journey hasn’t been an easy one, she stays strong for those who need her most, including her 4-yearold daughter Emma.

“She is the light of my life, helping me focus on getting

Performing self-breast exams is as imperative as having an annual mammogram. If anything seems unusual or abnormal, call your physician or UC Health Mammography Services at (513) 584-PINK (7465).

Western & Southern is proud to support the Barrett Cancer Center at UC

Western & Southern is with you through it all. We help our customers and communities feel at ease knowing you’re financially prepared for whatever comes your way.

WesternSouthern.com/Community

Western & Southern Financial Group, Inc. Cincinnati, Ohio. WS-40093 2203

SCAN TO LEARN MORE

Through the Office of Engagement , we provide community art classes for adults, teens and kids!

The definitive guide to living well in Greater Cincinnati

The city’s most respected and award-winning magazine, highlighting the region’s most interesting people, cultural issues, food, arts, fashion, and history.

Smart Guide to Local Schools

Great Oaks Career Campuses

Great Oaks is the largest public career-technical school district in Ohio, partnering with 36 school districts in an area spanning 2,200 square miles.

Each year, thousands of area high school juniors and seniors prepare for a career at one of Great Oaks’ state-of-the-art campuses—Diamond Oaks in Dent (Green Township), Laurel Oaks in Wilmington, Live Oaks in Milford, or Scarlet Oaks in Sharonville. -

rity to construction trades, culinary arts, cosmetology, digital arts, and more. Great Oaks offers over 30 different programs across its four campuses that focus on skills in demand by industry. Students spend half of the school day in their super elective lab

programs and the other half in academic classes. High school students can earn college credits, gain work experience through internships and co-ops, and secure industry credentials.

Great Oaks also offers over 100 “satellite” programs embedded in 30 partnering high schools across the region focused on workforce development including biomedical sciences, business management, marketing, teaching professions, and more.

The district serves adult learners through career training

and engineering, police, and health care, among many others. Great Oaks also provides programs like English for speakers of other languages, high school equivalency, and personal enrichment classes. Partnerships with local business, education, and community agencies help shape the programs offered.

THE STATS YEAR FOUNDED: 1970 GRADES SERVED: 11–12 and adults on campus; middle and high school satellite programs in partner schools CURRENT ENROLLMENT: 24,000 high school students at four Great Oaks campuses and in programs embedded in 30 area public schools; 14,000 adult students STUDENT-FACULTY RATIO: Varies UNIFORMS REQUIRED? Yes TUITION: Tuition is free for high school students; adult program tuition varies TOP AWARDS/RECOGNITIONS: 2023 U.S. Presidential Scholar

•

• 2023 U.S. Presidential Volunteer Service Medal

• 2023 Ohio ACTE Postsecondary Teacher of the Year

• 2023 ACTE Region 1 (19 states) Advisory Committee Member of the Year

• 2023 ACTE Region 1 School Board Recognition Award

• Students consistently place in national skills competitions

110 Great Oaks Dr., Cincinnati, OH 45241

• (513) 771-8840

• www.greatoaks.com

Bethany School

Open House: Sunday, October 22, 2023, 2–4 p.m.

Bethany School is a warm and diverse community that has served Ohio families for 125 years. We believe in the joy of learning. Our small class sizes and curriculum spark curiosity, encourage play, and make discovery an exciting journey. Our graduates continue to experience academic success in Cincinnati’s premier high schools.

Bethany School’s students experience a vibrant array of activities including

and community service. Our beautiful, na-

ing an eco-friendly learning space where your child can grow and create wonderful memories. Choose Bethany School for your child’s enriching educational journey.

“The small class sizes & caring faculty created a positive environment for my kids and the focus on academics, spiritual/character development, and diversity helped them grow into the amazing people they were created to be.” - Bethany Parent

-

THE STATS YEAR FOUNDED: 1898 GRADES SERVED: K–8 CURRENT ENROLLMENT:160 STUDENT/FACULTY RATIO: 10:1 UNIFORMS REQUIRED? Yes TUITION: $10,980 TOP THREE AWARDS/RECOGNITIONS: Platinum LEED

Albion Ave., Cincinnati, OH, • (513) 771-7462

Bishop Fenwick High School

Open House: Sunday, October 29, 2023, 1–4 p.m.

Bishop Fenwick High School is a Catholic, co-educational high school in the heart of the Archdiocese of Cincinnati on 66 acres on State Route 122, minutes from I-75 and State Route 741. The Fenwick experience— challenging classes, diverse activities, competitive sports, and creative arts— prepares students for future success. Fenwick offers three levels of college prep courses, including AP and CCP courses, Engineering and IT programs, and a wide

variety of electives. Fenwick also provides -

thing they enjoy, including athletics, arts, service, and STEM. Fenwick students are ready to boldly live their calling, as they go forth to love God and serve him present in others. The Fenwick experience inspires students to learn, to lead, and to love.

THE STATS YEAR FOUNDED: 1952 GRADES SERVED: 9–12 NUMBER OF STUDENTS CURRENTLY ENROLLED: 456 STUDENT/FACULTY RATIO: 13:1 GRADUATION RATE, IF APPLICABLE: 100% UNIFORMS REQUIRED? Yes TUITION: $11,700 TOP THREE AWARDS/RECOGNITIONS:

OH-122, Franklin, OH 45005 • (513) 423-0723 • www.fenwickfalcons.org

Cincinnati Country Day

Personalized appointments available Monday through Friday. Learn more at www.countryday.net

We ensure families that their children will be known, nurtured, and inspired. We provide students an exemplary, character-driven, and innovative academic experience that will guide them to be the future leaders of the next generation.

We are one community united to help grow students, ages 18 months to 18 years. We connect students both academ-

ically and personally, whether in the classroom or outside on our 60-acre campus.

the next phase of their lives with purpose, Be a scholar. Be an athlete. Be an artist. Be an innovator. Be a philanthropist. Be a leader. Be your best self. Country Day is The Place To Be.

THE STATS YEAR FOUNDED: 1926 GRADES SERVED: Early childhood (18 months)–grade 12

CURRENT ENROLLMENT: 855 STUDENT-FACULTY RATIO: 9:1

GRADUATION RATE: 100% UNIFORMS REQUIRED? Yes, K–grade 4; dress code grades 5–12

TUITION: $8,390–$29,995

TOP AWARDS/RECOGNITIONS: Students matriculate to top colleges nationally and internationally

• #1 Cincinnati area high school for sending students to Harvard, Princeton, and MIT (PolarisList)

• $7.5 million awarded in college grants and scholarships to the class of 2023

• A top K–12 school by Niche for 2023

• Member of Cum Laude Society

•

• National Merit Recipients, Scholars, and Scholarship winners

6905 Given Rd., Cincinnati, OH 45243

• (513) 979-0220

• Advanced Placement Scholars

• Scholastic Art and Writing Award winners

• www.countryday.net

Cincinnati Hills Christian Academy

Open House: November 4, 2023, 10 am–1 pm (all grades, all campuses); January 27, 2024, 10 am–1 pm (all grades, all campuses); in-person tours and shadow visits are also available. Learn more at chca-oh.org/visit-us.

Step into CHCA and you will discover an extraordinary Christ-centered education unlike any within the city, where students have countless opportunities to Choose More—to find their place, pursue their gifts, strengthen their faith, and make a meaningful impact on our world. Whether you are a preschooler, an Upper School

student, or anywhere in between, you will experience high levels of engagement intellectually, spiritually, and relationally. It’s where innovative programming, theological integration, hands-on learning, and countless extracurriculars all come together to result in unique and exciting learning experiences.

THE STATS YEAR FOUNDED: 1989 GRADES SERVED: PK2-Grade 12

CURRENT ENROLLMENT: 1,345

STUDENT-FACULTY RATIO: 12:1 average class size 16–18 students GRADUATION RATE: 100% UNIFORMS REQUIRED? Yes, through Grade 6 TUITION: $3,950–$20,425 TOP THREE

AWARDS/RECOGNITIONS: 14% of Class of 2023 students recognized by National Merit Scholarship Corporation

• CHCA is ranked by Niche as the No. 1 Christian High School in Ohio

• Only school in the region offering an Entrepreneurship and Sustainability Program with student-run businesses, a greenhouse, multiple learning gardens, and nationally recognized Teaching Kitchen

PK2–Gr 3: Edyth B. Lindner Campus, 11312 Snider Rd., Cincinnati, OH 45249; Gr. 4–8: Founders’ Campus, 11300 Snider Rd., Cincinnati, OH 45249; Gr 9–12: Martha S. Lindner Campus, 11525 Snider Rd., Cincinnati, OH 45249; PK3–Gr 6: Otto Armleder Memorial Education Campus, 140 W. Ninth St., Cincinnati, OH 45202

• (513) 247-0900 • www.chca-oh.org

Cincinnati Waldorf School

Open House: November 4, 2023 and February 3, 2024

Personal tours available by appointment; e-mail enrollment@cincinnatiwaldorfschool.org

The Cincinnati Waldorf School provides active hands-on academics infused with nature, community building, and the arts. CWS students learn compassion, resilience, creativity, balance, problem solving, and independent thinking—exactly what our world needs most right now. Waldorf teachers are experts in outdoor education, and our students spend a lot of time outside. This year we are continuing to spend as much time outdoors as possible to pro-

vide a safe and joyful learning environment for our students. Waldorf High School students work closely with teachers who are experts in the subjects they teach. The high school curriculum is extremely diverse and gives students the opportunity to engage in a wide assortment of classes, allowing them to dive deeply into academic subjects that are integrated with art, music, drama, community building, and more!

Purcell Marian High School

Open House: Sunday, November 12, 2023, 1–4 pm

Purcell Marian High School is a historic Marianist co-ed high school serving a diverse population of students. We are the only local private school offering the International Baccalaureate Program—a rigorous course of study designed to uncover a student’s passion and advance their critical thinking.

Our school, affectionately called The for more than 90 years, devoted to the ministry of Mary, education, the arts, so -

cial justice, and service to others. Students at Purcell Marian are welcomed, nurtured, and encouraged to grow in an environment that fosters collaboration and belonging.

With advanced learning opportunities, inclusive student activities, and engaged faculty, it’s easy to see why students feel they belong at Purcell Marian. Learn more about the passionate students who have said “I Belong” and schedule a visit at www.purcellmarian.org/admissions.

THE STATS YEAR FOUNDED:

Open House: Sunday, October 22, 1–4 p.m., RSVP required

Saint Ursula Academy (SUA) is a vibrant educational community for girls in grades 9–12. Students enroll from across the Greater Cincinnati region because of its reputation for academic excellence, Catholic values, whole-person formation, innovation, service, and proven student success year after year. Saint Ursula graduates stand out. They are women of faith, integrity, and courage who are ready to make a positive impact in the world.

Saint Ursula fosters a welcoming, respectful, and diverse community, attracting students from the entire tri-state area to its campus. Each student is supported by her teachers, staff, counselors, and even SUA’s therapy dog, Angelo. Saint Ursula is a great investment, with 94 percent of the Class of 2023 earning college scholarts, and athletics.

THE STATS YEAR FOUNDED: 1910 GRADES SERVED: Girls 9–12 NUMBER OF STUDENTS CURRENTLY ENROLLED: 635 STUDENT/FACULTY RATIO: 12:1 GRADUATION RATE, IF APPLICABLE: 100% UNIFORMS REQUIRED?

Yes TUITION: $15,550 TOP AWARDS/RECOGNITIONS: Cincy Family Choice Awards, Winner Best Private School • Cincinnati Business Courier CLIMB Award • Ohio Business Magazine, Best Places to Work in Ohio 2023 • Cincy Best of the East, Winner for Best School Spirit

1339 E. McMillan St., Cincinnati, OH 45206 • (513) 961-3410 • www.saintursula.org

Saint Ursula Academy Seton High School

Open House: Thursday, November 2, 4:30-8:30 p.m.

In the tradition of St. Elizabeth Ann Seton, and founded by the Sisters of Charity of Cincinnati, Seton High School develops a diverse population of young women for a life of faith, service, and leadership and engages them in achieving academic excellence in a college-preparatory environment.

Our strong Catholic faith is intertwined in every aspect of the school. The young women at Seton High School are challenged to be critical thinkers in an individualized, supportive, and experiential

learning environment. Seton offers an Honors Program, a variety of both AP and dual college credit courses, and an inclusive and collaborative support services program. Our students are in extracurricular clubs and activities, on stage, and in their communities. The mission and values of Seton High School, strong academics, and a true sense of spirit and sisterhood are why thousands of young women have chosen to become a Seton Saint.

THE STATS YEAR FOUNDED: 1927 GRADES SERVED: 9-12 CURRENT ENROLLMENT: 720 STUDENTFACULTY RATIO: 18:1 TUITION: $12,700 (plus $1,200 in fees) TOP AWARDS/RECOGNITIONS: 99% of graduates go on to pursue a four-year postsecondary education with 80% of students receiving college scholarships. • Students have an exclusive opportunity to take part in the Seton-TriHealth Summer Employment Program. •

• System as its form of student government.

3901 Glenway Ave., Cincinnati, OH 45205

• (513) 471-2600

• www.setoncincinnati.org

Walk & Talk Group Tours: Lower Schools: Sept. 19 and 21, Oct. 10 and 12; Middle and Upper Schools: Sept. 27, Oct. 19, Nov. 2

Questions & Conversations Virtual Events: Pre-K through kindergarten: Sept. 26; Middle and Upper Schools: Oct. 24; Lower Schools: Oct. 26

Seven Hills is the top ranked Cincinnati private school for students age 2 through grade 12. Our students are guided by caring, supportive teachers, who learn each child’s unique potential. Every day, students experience engaging activities that

The Seven Hills School Springer School and Center

make learning exciting and fun. For more info, contact The Seven Hills School’s Admission Team at 513.728.2400 or visit www.7hills.org!

THE STATS YEAR FOUNDED: 1906 GRADES SERVED: Pre-K (2-year-olds) through Grade 12 CURRENT ENROLLMENT: 1,040 STUDENT/FACULTY RATIO: 7.5:1 GRADUATION RATE: 100% UNIFORMS REQUIRED ? Yes, Doherty Campus (2-year-olds through Grade 5); no, Hillsdale Campus (2-year-olds through Grade 12) TUITION: $8,410–$31,350

TOP AWARDS/RECOGNITIONS: Ranked #1 Private College Prep High School in Greater Cincinnati • Ranked #1 Private K-12 School in Greater Cincinnati • 13% of the Class of 2023 have been recognized by the National Merit Scholarship Program • 14% of the Class of 2021 received National Merit Recognition • Accreditations include National Association of Independent Schools (NAIS), Independent Schools Association of the Central States (ISACS), Ohio Association of Independent Schools (OAIS), and the State of Ohio.

Hillsdale Campus, 5400 Red Bank Rd., Cincinnati, OH 45227 • Doherty Campus, 2726 Johnstone Pl., Cincinnati, OH 45206 • (513) 728-2400 • www.7hills.org

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THE STATS YEAR FOUNDED: 1971 GRADES SERVED: 1–9

CURRENT ENROLLMENT: about 200

STUDENT-FACULTY RATIO: 6:1 GRADUATION RATE: N/A UNIFORMS REQUIRED? No TUITION: 54% of families

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dRIVING CHANGE

“It was a fight to keep as much service as we could. Every time you cut service, someone doesn’t have a connection, and that changes the fabric of the region.”

It’s a quandary faced by transit agencies nationwide. Success relies on ridership. But when falling ridership leads to further funding cuts, cities are forced to cut service, and even more riders flee to other

plan, Haley says, “even for those who don’t ride the bus. Even those we never expect to ride. It’s this: The people you depend on depend on transit.”

Haley depends on Khaled Shammout to lead the day-to-day work of analyzing and upgrading a bus system that serves a 400-square-mile region that’s home to more than 2 million people and is growing. As Metro’s chief strategic officer, he scrutinizes data gleaned from on-board GIS sensors and pores through community feedback to find efficiencies that will improve service. Sprawling organizational charts cover his office walls.

Shammout’s 28-year career in transit began with an internship at the Central Ohio Transit Authority (COTA) in Columbus. From there he went to leader-

you need it to when you need it, you aren’t going to take it.”

So Metro has created new bus routes, including cross-town routes outside of the old downtown-centric hub-and-spoke map; built a new transit hub in Northside; increased frequency on 10 routes; and added Sunday service to some routes. And in a first for Cincinnati, says Shammout, seven routes were converted to run 24-hour service—important for areas where he identified high concentrations of third-shift jobs. He says that those routes, as well as those with increased frequency, have shown significant increases in ridership.

In the first quarter of 2023, Metro was back to 80 percent of pre-pandemic ridership. Ridership on routes with upgraded service saw increases as high as 200 percent.

“So to put it in context, the rest of the country is somewhere between 65 and 70 percent of pre-pandemic ridership,” says Haley. “These numbers are showing that we built it, and they’re coming. They’re returning and riding.”

modes of transportation. This death spiral was all the more pronounced for Metro given its limited funding model.

When he took over as CEO, Haley knew another voter referendum loomed. So he refused to cut service, even when that decision came at the cost, he says, of deferring garage maintenance and technology upgrades.

SORTA convened a working group in 2018 to study the need for new funding and better service. Grassroots organizations including the Better Bus Coalition joined city and business leaders to call for a new funding mechanism. They worked with the Ohio-Kentucky-Indiana Regional Council of Governments (OKI) to determine travel patterns, Haley says, and see where people were living and where they worked. “We spent a lot of time, and I mean a lot of time, talking to the community, the business community, and elected offi cials and asking, How do you connect this region in a real way, ” he says. “As we were fighting to get through this, we came up with Reinventing Metro.”

There’s a unifying message behind the

ship roles in Palm Beach and Jacksonville, Florida, as well as Makkah (Mecca), Saudi Arabia before joining Metro in 2018. He’s an avid reader and author. His 2021 book, The Implosion of Public Transit and the Case for an Infi nite Game outlines transit’s existential crisis and off ers a path through survival to thriving. His book applies scholar James Carse’s concept of the “infi nite game,” adopting long-term strategies based not on finite targets but on a continuum of improvement.

In a landscape where transit competes with a plethora of options for getting around, Shammout says, transit agencies must adapt or die. His work is complicated—tiny tweaks can make a big difference for both Metro drivers and riders, impacting effi ciency across the system. “In transit, certain fundamentals apply,” he says. “The more frequency we have, the more ridership we gain. If you have buses running just once an hour, people are not going to wait an hour to catch a trip, right? If buses are running every 15 minutes, that’s an incentive for people to ride. Likewise, if the bus doesn’t go where

THIS SUMMER’S ROLLOUT OF METRONow! service marks a significant turning point. It manifests the expansion of Metro’s geographic footprint across Hamilton County, making new service available to suburban residents who can’t easily reach fixed bus routes.

The next big step is bus rapid transit (BRT), which creates high-speed bus service corridors akin to light rail. Metro is planning to complete the first two corridors by 2027. BRT has worked well for other Midwestern cities, both moving people quickly and attracting billions in real estate and economic investment dollars.

BRT will tie together communities across the region by deploying larger, often articulated buses that support level boarding with elevated platforms providing a light-rail-like service, moving along major street corridors that are a hybrid of bus-only and in-traffic lanes. BRT buses will also get signal priority to move ahead of traffic at intersections. They’ll arrive every 15 minutes or less, so frequent you won’t even need to consult a schedule, says Shammout, who believes that BRT will impact how county residents move and, by

“THE TREND IN U.S. PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION IS TO OFFER RIDERS MORE OPTIONS AND THEN TO CONNECT THOSE OPTIONS PHYSICALLY AND DIGITALLY.”

making corridors attractive to developers, where they choose to live.

In recent decades, the American transit landscape has seen an explosion of new options. Think of the rise of Uber and Lyft, the availability of rentable electric scooters and bikes, and on-demand “micro-transit” options like MetroNow! vans. Even that old workhorse, the bus, has been transformed. With free WiFi and charging ports, real-time arrival information, and a smoother ride, says Haley, “This is not your father’s bus.” All of the options compete for attention at a rare inflection point when more and more people are suddenly open to changing their relationships with cars.

Younger Americans are reconsidering the necessity of car ownership, driven by economic realities, concern for the environment, and other factors. Some families are buying a bus pass instead of shelling out for a second car. In 2022, according to the American Automobile Association, car ownership cost the average American $10,728 a year. That’s about $900 a month on your vehicle at a time when gas, food, and housing aren’t exactly cheap.

“It isn’t unusual to fi nd riders who may use Uber to get to a light rail station that will take them to work, and then on the way home take a bus to meet friends at a restaurant and a bike-share or scooter-share for the final leg of their trip,” says American Public Transportation Association CEO Paul Skoutelas when I reach out to get a sense of how Metro’s upgrades fi t into the national landscape. “The trend in U.S. public transportation is to off er riders more options and then to connect those options,” says Paul Skoutelas.

Americans have come to expect customized services, picking and choosing from a wide spectrum of options based on their needs, their lifestyles, and their budgets. When it comes to transit, then, “cities with the most options are likely to thrive,” says Skoutelas.

Metro’s BRT project aims to link as many transportation modes as possible, from park-to-ride locations at the end of each BRT corridor to level boarding from platforms to make buses more

DRIVING CHANGE

wheelchair-, bike-, and scooter-friendly. And stops are designed to align with other transit options.

At a projected cost of $300 million, Cincinnati’s fi rst two BRT corridors will roll out along Reading Road and Hamilton Avenue, with Montgomery Road and Glenway Avenue receiving improvements during that construction phase in anticipation of their conversion to BRT down the line.

Gus Ricksecker, 26, is a member of the generation that no longer sees car ownership as essential. He commutes by bus to his job at City Hall, where he’s chief of staff for Councilmember Reggie Harris, who was a big Issue 7 proponent. Ricksecker takes the bus for most errands and entertainment, including some of those new late-night buses—which he says are often packed. He’s saving money for a condo down payment, perhaps in a building along one of the BRT corridors.

“A very tangible impact of passing

Issue 7 is that BRT can fundamentally change the future growth of the city in terms of where dense new housing is built,” says Ricksecker. “We’re doing a lot of zoning reform, and there’s more talk about zoning and land use reform here. And at the center of that conversation is bus rapid transit.”

As affordable housing advocates and city officials haggle over how to build more housing options, the creation of robust BRT corridors literally lays a path forward. More mobility means more freedom in terms of where we live, allowing more residents to live in affordable areas and driving what urban planners call “transit-oriented development.”

“Apartment buildings are going up around the city, but in locations that aren’t necessarily intentional,” says Ricksecker. “It’s just wherever developers can grab land, essentially. But if we start building more apartments in major transit corridors, we’ll get more transit users and

get more people out of their cars.”

In other cities that introduced BRT, transit-oriented development sprung up along the corridors and property values close to the routes rose. Cleveland’s $200 million Healthline BRT generated about $9.5 billion in development, for instance. An Ohio State University study of how BRT impacts property values in 10 U.S. cities found that multi-family residences along the corridors saw a 41.5 percent increase in property value.

Meanwhile, a 2018 UC Economics Center study estimated Reinventing Metro should create close to 20,000 more jobs and make 740 more employers accessible by Metro. The new 24hour service will reach more than half of Hamilton County jobs, or 10,000 employers. The same study estimates that increasing employers’ access to a larger workforce could save businesses between $20 million and $30 million by reducing turnover.

WHILE REINVENTING METRO SHOULD generate economic benefi ts throughout the region, environmental and societal benefits aren’t as easy to quantify. More people on public transit means less traffic congestion, which means less pollution, energy usage, and carbon emissions. Nationally, U.S. mass transit saves 4.2 billion gallons of gasoline per year.

Sustainability in the face of climate change matters to young Americans. Metro does everything from washing buses with rainwater to operating hybrid buses, with plans this year to use federal funds to purchase 11 fully electric buses. BRT will use zero-emission vehicles.

In many ways, transit-oriented development can lead to greener neighborhoods and business districts. It allows parking minimum requirement codes to be reformed, rendering them outdated in settings where you don’t necessarily need a car. Less parking makes neighborhoods cleaner, cooler, and more resilient to cli-

mate change. Many Cincinnati neighborhoods have begun to remove parking minimums, a step in the right direction given that there are approximately 2 billion parking spaces in the U.S.—between four and eight spaces per car, by some estimates.

Public transit is 10 times safer than driving, says Skoutelas of the American Public Transportation Association, and makes streets safer for drivers by reducing the total number of cars on the road. Transit users are healthier because they’re also pedestrians getting in their daily steps.

More jobs, additional dollars in our pockets, and a greener, more pleasant city—improved public transit seems to be a panacea. How about the less quantifiable yet no less important benefits that reliable, accessible transit offers on a societal level? Consider the interactions that happen in denser neighborhoods or on a shared transit system, where we aren’t walled off behind the wheel of a car. Isn’t there value in living face to face, especially at a time when

intolerance seems to be on the rise?

Robert Putnam decries the erosion of American civic life and relationships in his book Bowling Alone: The Collapse and Revival of American Community. It’s partly due, he says, to suburbanization and the rise of the single-occupancy car commuter. “Spatial fragmentation between the home and the workplace is bad for community,” he writes.

More reliable and frequent bus service probably isn’t the go-to solution for society’s ills, but it can better connect the home and the workplace for many citizens. And that’s a start, isn’t it?

“The transit network we’re building today will determine what happens next,” says Haley. “Once we build BRT and people see how quickly they can move through corridors, maybe the conversation changes. As we build this robust transit system and people decide, I don’t need a car, I’ve got a connection, then we really start thinking differently about the future.”

more like a collaborative friend.”

Langrée cherishes working with knowledgeable musicians, saying it isn’t the conductor’s job to impose his will—rather, musicians should be empowered to play as they speak and respond to each other. He cites advice he received from legendary French conductor Georges Prêtre more than 50 years ago: “The conductor must impose his interpretation and let the musicians play. That sounded like good advice. You need to have the clarity to transmit to the musicians with words or with no words.”

Martin says Langrée’s music-making is an extension of his personality. “It’s intelligent, it’s thoughtful, it’s nuanced, it’s emotionally valid. He never showboats. He’s the kind of director who lets the beauty of music come from the musicians and to the audience. He gets out of the way. He serves the music rather than the music serving him.”

Langrée’s approach to programming has blended classics from the standard repertoire with more recent works, including many pieces commissioned by the CSO. His first concert as music director in November 2013 featured the world premiere of Jennifer Higdon’s “On a Wire,” featuring progressive chamber ensemble Eighth Blackbird. Also on the program, narrated by poet and civil rights activist Maya Angelou, was Aaron Copland’s Lincoln Portrait, debuted by the CSO in 1942. The concert concluded with Beethoven’s famous Fifth Symphony.

Commissioning and promoting new works has been a longstanding practice for the CSO, one that Langrée eagerly built on. During his tenure, he will have commissioned 65 new works and 27 world premieres. “I like to continue this history,” he says. “The orchestra is not a museum where you cultivate Beethoven symphonies. Beethoven also wrote contemporary music. When you read critiques of some of his symphonies, they said, This is not music. This is noise, screams and ugly sounds. Now everything feels like riding a Lexus. Looking back into history makes it more modern, makes it more actual. You don’t think, Oh, once upon a time. It’s today Beethoven wrote that. Mixing contemporary music with Beethoven invites you to listen to contemporary music with more height, flavor, and density.”

sound—both what the musicians are playing and who’s playing it, as well as where they’re playing it. Langrée was heavily involved in overhauling Music Hall’s acoustics in 2016 and 2017, when Springer Auditorium was completely rebuilt.

Oboist Parry performed as guest principal oboe in the Mostly Mozart Festival Orchestra under Langrée’s baton, and that New York experience opened his eyes to what Langrée sought in Cincinnati. “Louis has been working to turn the CSO into a chamber orchestra,” he says. “That’s a revolutionary idea. For years he’s been talking to us about making space and getting out of the way on long notes, lightening the textures, releasing the energy, not pushing too much. A symphony orchestra is like a cruise ship: There are a lot of amenities and it’s really awesome, but it doesn’t exactly turn quickly. Chamber music is nimble, like a little speedboat. You can absolutely turn and go around the islands and see everything in your view.”

Langrée developed a strong personal connection with guitarist Bryce Dessner, the Cincinnati native who cofounded the renowned rock band The National and is also a composer. “There are people you feel connections with,” says Langrée. “Bryce is eager to discover, to exchange, to tell you also what you might like. We don’t see each other a lot, but I consider him a friend. I like the fact that he’s so open. With him there’s no separation between classical music and rock music, whether he writes pop songs or for a symphony orchestra. He’s the same person, just with many skills—like a chef using a lot of different spices. I like him and his music.”

In May 2024, Langrée will conduct a concert that offers a piano concerto by Dessner along with Beethoven’s Symphony No. 7. (Read an interview with Dessner about The National’s Homecoming concerts on page 19.)

By the time Langrée finishes this final season, says Martin, he will have hired between a third and a half of the orchestra’s musicians. He’s reshaped the orchestra’s

LANGRÉE WILL BE REMEMBERED AS much for his engagement in the community as for his musical leadership. Martin, who was president and CEO of the Dallas Symphony Orchestra before coming to Cincinnati, says, “He dove into the city, and that’s pretty rare. I’ve worked with a lot of music directors who didn’t do that. Raising two kids in the city, you learn a lot about a place.”

Early in their time in Cincinnati, Langrée and Aimée visited Walnut Hills High School and heard a student orchestra play a movement from a Mozart symphony. Music teachers John Caliguri and Chris Gibson say the couple loved that the college prep school made music part of each school day and that students could experience music at different levels.

Their daughter, a violinist, joined the school orchestra. When Louis and Aimée learned some kids didn’t have instruments, they donated money to buy more violins. “We didn’t even ask,” says Gibson. “We just mentioned we were waiting to get more violins. They jumped in and helped right away.”

Langrée visited the school regularly and helped with rehearsals. “He had a kindness, a warmth, passionate,” Gibson says. “He

“THE ORCHESTRA IS NOT A MUSEUM. MIXING CONTEMPORARY MUSIC WITH BEETHOVEN INVITES YOU TO LISTEN TO NEW MUSIC WITH MORE HEIGHT, FLAVOR, AND DENSITY.”

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didn’t attack them with his knowledge. The more he came and the kids realized how nice he was, the more comfortable they were asking questions.”

The first time Langrée visited, he wore thick corduroy, mustard-yellow pants. “The kids commented about how cool the pants were,” Gibson recalls. The Langrées opened their home for fundraising events for the school, sometimes catered by another well-known Frenchman and Langrée’s friend, the late chef Jean-Robert de Cavel.

On their arrival, the Langrées were embraced by Alliance Française de Cincinnati, an organization for people who love the French language and Francophone culture. Louis hosted post-concert conversations, and Aimée became a teacher.

Suzy DeYoung, whose family operated La Petite Pierre restaurant in Madeira for many years, formed a special relationship with Langrée. Their families both hailed from the Alsace region; his mother and DeYoung’s cousin live in the same tiny town. When DeYoung and Langrée finally met, they discovered that her cousin is married to his mother’s cousin. “So he calls me his cousin,” she says, chuckling.

“He and Jean-Robert brought France to Cincinnati,” says DeYoung, who now runs the La Soupe food rescue organization. “For two people to come here and settle here, they ingrained themselves into the fabric of the city. They elevated art in this city.”

Langrée also stepped up when the city needed distractions during the early COVID pandemic and lockdown, which posed a serious threat for orchestras and live arts organizations everywhere. He debuted with the New York Philharmonic just before the lockdown. Back in Cincinnati for an orchestra rehearsal at Music Hall, he was interrupted by an announcement: “Ladies and gentlemen, the rehearsal is over. We have to close the building. Please take all your belongings.”

Langrée spent the entire confi nement period in Cincinnati, missing conducting opportunities with major symphonies in Chicago and San Francisco.

For two years, his utmost concern was

for the CSO’s musicians. “They needed to play together but were not paid, and some had to change their apartments to an Airbnb or do some Uber driving to collect a little money,” says Langrée. “In challenging times, more than ever, we need art. With this pandemic, we felt suddenly the need to reconnect with ourselves. That is why art exists.”

Langrée championed offering online streaming events and made sure those concerts were the best they could be.

“Louis and I quickly agreed at the beginning of the pandemic that we needed stay in touch with our subscribers and our city,” says Martin. “It was also an opportunity to expand our reach. A lot of people came into our circle through those streaming concerts. They’d never heard us before or had never been in Music Hall.”

Today the CSO has a new focus on digital content, a change Langrée deserves credit for pushing. “We were all feeling at a loss, to put it mildly,” says musician Parry. “On an artistic level, Louis rallied the troops. He got us out of our homes and helped us feel safe while creating this artistic product, making music together and sharing it for free. That was a big deal.”

When everything stopped, Langrée had an inkling that he wouldn’t ask for a renewal of his CSO contract. “Not that I’m unhappy,” he says. “I’m deeply happy. But I was probably being taken for granted. When I rehearse the orchestra now and I stop, they know what I’m going to say. When I raise my baton, I know how it’s going to sound. That means that I should leave at the top of our relationship, not when things become difficult and sour. Nothing was wrong. But as a friend said, It’s better to leave three years too early than five minutes too late.”

Ten years is a good tenure for a major symphony conductor, says Parry. “Louis will be missed. He’s contributed something indelible to the DNA of the Cincinnati Symphony. It’s a nimble quality, being more like a chamber orchestra in the way that we listen and balance and make room for each other. That’s going to stay with us, even though he’s moving on. He will be back occasionally, of course, and

Bringing the community together with over 70 artist vendors, live music, food trucks, and family fun

welcomed with open arms.”

A search for Langrée’s replacement has been underway for two years, and an appointment is expected soon.

MARTIN SAYS THAT ONE OF LANGRÉE’S best attributes here has been his understanding of American culture. “He sees the schisms in our society, and he’s always been focused on how you use music to overcome them by creating a more diverse audience and a more diverse orchestra,” says Martin. “Louis has brought this orchestra closer to the people of Cincinnati because he understands the city. He made it his business to understand the culture of the city. He understands the power of music to unify. Music has the power to bridge divides, more than any other art form, because it creates a common language.”

He always felt like he belonged in Cincinnati, Langrée admits. “When you’re not in your usual environment, you need to feel connected,” he says. “And I’ve had my family, the orchestra, the community, a familiar environment with Over-theRhine—just that neighborhood’s name feels like home for me because the Rhine River runs through the Alsace. Here it’s not about the prestige. It’s the community’s orchestra.”

He recalls his Lumenocity experience in Washington Park fondly. “They didn’t come to listen to classical music, they came because there was an event organized by their orchestra,” says Langrée. “I like to say that there is never a second chance for a first impression. This first impression was about embracing. If there is one image of Cincinnati that I will keep, it will be that. It was not listening to music—it was sharing the joy of being together through music.”

Remembering the light projections that brought Music Hall to life, he says he felt that he, the orchestra, and the entire city were on the brink of something new and wonderful. “People didn’t know what to expect,” he says, smiling.

Louis Langrée didn’t know what to expect moving his family to Cincinnati in 2013, but he spent every day here sharing his joy of bringing people together through music. He’d love for that joy to outlast his decade-plus at the orchestra.

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RAISING THE BAR

After closing down during the height of the COVID-19 pandemic, Krueger’s Tavern reopened in a new space last December, upping its game and its look.

D NE

DISAPPEARING MAÎTRE D’S P. 84 BACK TO KRUEGER’S P. 86 POP-UP MADNESS P. 86 DINER FOOD IN THE COV P. 88

A Lost Art

What happened to fine dining’s first face?

—BRANDONWUSKE

IF YOU’RE A LONGTIME FOODIE, YOU may have noticed a change in restaurants over the last few years. Often, you are greeted by a smiling host or perhaps even the restaurant’s owner. But you are almost certainly not greeted by a maître d’.

Just on the underside of 40, I’d like to think I’m too young to wax wistful about the glory days of restaurant service. But I can’t help feeling a tinge of nostalgia for the maître d’ era. A good maître d’hotel is the dining room’s jack-of-all-trades: taking reservations and finessing the seating chart like a good host while managing the dining room and service staff like an efficient general manager. Maître d’s set up the room, establishing its layout and atmosphere. They know the menu inside and out, and can make recommendations as they lead you to your table. Perhaps most importantly, they cultivate relationships with regulars. At least, that’s how it was.

To confirm that the maître d’ wasn’t just disappearing in my imagination, I talked to Scott Holubetz of Cincinnati State’s Midwest Culinary Institute. As the Hospitality Management program’s co-op coordinator, Holubetz has a firsthand look at staffing trends in the industry.

According to him, two major shifts happened within the last two decades, the effects of which would trickle down to several front-of-house positions. One occurred 14 years ago when the American Culinary Federation (the organization that sets the standards for schools like the Midwest Culinary Institute) lowered its emphasis on front-ofhouse exposure for students. And in 2008, the State of Ohio put a ceiling on credit hours for associate’s degrees. In response, most culinary arts schools in the state cut

THE MAESTRO Marilou Lind, maître d’ at Le Bar a Boeuf, is ready to welcome regulars with their favorite wine; (oppositepage) she holds a portrait of Jean-Robert de Cavel, which was made by a customer.

service-related courses, focusing almost exclusively on food preparation.

Holubetz says the decisions from the ACF and culinary schools were partly a response to the sweeping technological changes we’ve come to know and (usually) love: check-in kiosks, online reservations, and digitized wine lists. These types of changes had already begun to disrupt the service side of the industry, and it could well be that the maître d’s fate was sealed as soon as the first online reservation was accepted. However, in my opinion, by shifting focus, the ACF exacerbated the maître d’s downfall. In restaurants, at least.

Holubetz notes that the position is still flourishing in the private dining world of clubs and senior centers. This makes sense in a sector that’s more old-school by na-

caliber, and her workday is devoted to those relationships. If she knows you, she’ll make the perfect recommendation from one of the restaurant’s many specials as soon as you walk in. She’ll know what server you want, where you like to sit, and

ture, and where regulars are the norm. So if you miss the old-school service that a maître d’ provides, well, join the club.

Or head over to Le Bar a Boeuf. That’s where Marilou Lind holds court from behind the maître d’ stand. A native of the Philippines, she’s built a storied career in our local restaurant industry. In 1978, she was a server at a downtown Japanese restaurant called Kabuki. After leaving her shift, she was stopped by Michael Comisar, owner of Maisonette, who offered her a job at the legendary restaurant on the spot. She worked her way up the ranks before heading to Orlando in 2004 to serve as maître d’ for the Ritz Carlton.

Luckily for us, Maisonette’s former chef, the late Jean-Robert de Cavel, convinced her to come back. He wanted her to help run Table, where she began working in 2010. He stressed the importance of getting to know customers, of cultivating personal relationships. He knew all the regulars’ likes and dislikes and kept a list of birthdays and anniversaries (a practice that Lind continues at Le Bar).

That uniquely personal service is what you get with a classic maître d’ of Lind’s

what wine you need ASAP. And on weekends, she cuts the beef wellington tableside, an experience that has quickly made its way to the top of my fine dining bucket list. That level of service doesn’t always stop when the workday is done.

“I’ve taken calls from regulars on my off days,” she says. “I’ve even had people come up to me at the symphony or ballet, asking for a table.”

Part of the reason for the disappearance of the maître d’, she explains, is that owners have become more active in the front of house. In an era where successful chefs and restaurateurs can reach star status, owners want to work the room. Ironically, the biggest star chef/owner our city has ever seen brought Lind on because he wanted to stay in the kitchen. “Jean-Robert was more old school,” she recalls. “He felt that his restaurants needed a maître d’.”

De Cavel was often praised for honoring the roots of classic French cooking. I would like to praise people like Lind for doing the same for classic service. And if you’ve ever been wished “happy birthday” as soon as you’ve walked into a restaurant, I’m sure you know what I mean.

MAÎTRE D’S SET UP THE ROOM, ESTABLISHING ITS LAYOUT AND ATMOSPHERE. PERHAPS MOST IMPORTANTLY, THEY CULTIVATE RELATIONSHIPS WITH REGULARS.

Tavern Fare

HEN KRUEGER’S TAVERN DEBUTED IN ITS NEW space in December, things felt…different. A little less industrial burger joint, a little more swanky European gastropub. It’s smaller, yes, and the rooftop bar is no more, but what Krueger’s has lost in physical footprint it’s gained in polish. The old “beers, burgers, sausage” model now focuses on sandwiches, approachable small plates, and salads.

Familiar favorites reign supreme. The beet-based veggie burger gets high billing, right below the Krueger’s Burger, a beefed-up version of the McDonald’s Big Mac, complete with special sauce. You’ll still find tried-andtrue shareables like the simple kale salad, pesto jar, and hot beer cheese, served with fluffy, perfectly salted pretzels. But you’ll also discover elevated options like Oysters Rockefeller, truffle chips, and a grilled cheese that oozes raclette and port wine jam. Where the old Krueger’s had a beer list that stretched across the better half of the drink menu, the new Krueger’s puts its faith in a new martini service. There’s still beer on tap, but in the moody glow of the house lighting, you’ll be more inclined to order a bourbon-based Rocky Marciano than an IPA.

This is certainly not to say that the Vine Street tavern has become stiff and stuffy. But this new and refined Krueger’s has the makings of a bona fide Cincinnati classic.

—LAUREN FISHER

Krueger’s Tavern, 1313 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 834-8670, kruegerstavern.com

LITTLE CHEF MEDY

TIZITA EATS

OISHII SUSHI BAKES

DUNCH

These up-and-coming pop-ups have the international food you need.

—AIESHA D. LITTLE

A former gold medal winner at the culinary competition Chefs on Parade in Manila, Remedy Stewart slings Asian fusion and international dishes from her food truck. This month, you’ll find her at Monkey Bar (7837 Old 3C Hwy.) in Foster. littlechefmedy. com

Simeon Wallis brings his Ethiopian fare to bars all over town, but if you’re looking for something regular, drop by The Big Chill in College Hill (5912 Hamilton Ave.) on the second Sunday of every month.

Instagram: @tizita_eats

Personalsized sushi bakes (essentially deconstructed sushi rolls) are owner Nikki Tran’s specialty. You can catch Oishii Sushi Bakes at Longfellow in Over-the-Rhine (1233 Clay St., 513-307-4379) on September 26.

Instagram: @oishiisushibakes

Dunch combines Chad Esmeier and Michael Villareal’s backgrounds for a kick-ass Italian/Filipino-influenced fusion menu. The duo’s at Second Story in Covington (100 W. Sixth St. #2, 859-669-2270) on September 28.

Instagram: @dunchprovisions

CHINO’S STREET FOOD

You haven’t had a street taco until you’ve tried a Vietnamese street taco from Chino’s. This Findlay Market outdoor vendor usually sets up shop near Saigon Market every weekend.

Instagram: @chinosstreetfood

BEAUTIFUL WEATHER, DELICIOUS FOOD, AND A HISTORIC ESTATE MADE A PERFECT SUMMER EVENING.

As guests meandered through the home and grounds of Peterloon Estate, they enjoyed custom picnic baskets, sips of prosecco, lawn games, and more. A portion of the proceeds for this chic yet casual event support Queen City Clubhouse.

THANK YOU TO OUR SPONSORS: MadTree Brewing, The BMW Store, Mionetto, Veroni, Ovation, Garnish Catering, La Brea Bakery, On The Rocks Cocktails, Chinet, Nothing Bundt Cakes, Popcornopolis, Subito, Hershey, Muscle Milk, Evolve, Gatorade, Newell’s Italian Ice, Pepcid-AC, and Gold Spoon Creamery.

PIKE STREET DINER OFFERS A SMALL

MENU

OF

BRUNCH CLASSICS

WITH

À

LA CARTE

options and boozy breakfast cocktails that make weekdays feel like Sundays. The retro-hip diner blends classic favorites with elevated ingredients and execution. The short menu covers everything you want from a diner brunch, including omelettes, waffles, and club sandwiches.

You can judge a diner by the quality of its burgers, and the Pike Smash (two four-ounce smash burger patties, white cheddar cheese, caramelized onions, shaved iceberg lettuce, tomato, and pickles on a brioche bun) does the place justice. The patties are juicy with crisped edges, and the onions add a surprising zip while the tomato and the pickles’ acidity keeps things level. Sandwiches and burgers come with fresh, golden fries lightly seasoned with salt and pepper that are almost better than the entrée.

When your sweet tooth calls, the S’mores French Toast (graham cracker–crusted French toast, chocolate sauce, whipped cream, and powdered sugar) is ready to answer. All of the sugary toppings are supported by the pillowy soft French toast and savory eggs, a lovely contrast to the gooey marshmallow and cinnamon-y graham crumbs. If the rich dish sounds like too much to conquer alone, make it a shared dessert.

—M. LEIGH HOOD

JAIME CARMODY

THE OWNER OF OUT OF Thyme Kitchen Studio wants to help you host a great Bengals party. Sign up and learn all of her tailgating secrets on September 14.

What’s the key to a good appetizer and/or cocktail for a function like a sports event? We always want to make sure to have items that aren’t complicated, are portable, and of course, delicious without having to enjoy hot.

Do you have any favorite sportsrelated cocktails? We hosted a March Madness version of this class and made a drink called “Alley Oop”—it makes me giggle when I say it. Vodka, lemon juice, ginger with a little raspberry, and mint. For this class, it’s the “Beer Bees Knees.” Typically, it’s a 1920s style cocktail with gin, lemon juice, and honey, but here, we’re mixing it up with a beer version.

What’s the best type of appetizer for game day? Something easy to eat, that doesn’t take too long to assemble, is appealing to look at, and delicious.

What’s the major difference between cooking for people and teaching people how to cook for themselves? When I cook for people, the dialogue is all internal. When I teach people to cook, I really get into the details of how and why something is happening.

– AIESHA D LITTLE

Out of Thyme Kitchen Studio, 11915 Montgomery Rd., Symmes Twp., (513) 781-4637, outofthymechef.com

Read a longer interview with Jaime at cincinnatimagazine.com

AMERICAN 90

BARBECUE 91

CAJUN/CARIBBEAN 91

CHINESE 92

ECLECTIC 92

FRENCH 95

INDIAN 96

ITALIAN 96

JAPANESE 98

KOREAN 98

MEDITERRANEAN 98

MEXICAN 99

SEAFOOD 99

STEAKS 102

THAI 102

VIETNAMESE 102

AMERICAN BOOMTOWN BISCUITS & WHISKEY

Boomtown leans hard into the Gold Rush theme: prospector-style overall aprons on servers, bluegrass tunes humming, and rustic decor details. And the dense grub isn’t for the faint of heart. Arrive with an empty belly, ready for a carbo load. The biscuits are all they’re cracked up to be, and the gravy’s not playing around, either. Sample its biscuits and gravy styles with a gravy flight. Or try The Yukon, an anytime breakfast sandwich, featuring fried chicken on par with the best the city has to offer. By the end of the meal, you’ll feel a little out of place without your own denim getup.

9039 U.S. Route 42, Suite H, Union, (859) 384-5910, boomtownbiscuitsandwhiskey. com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Tues–Sat. Breakfast and lunch Sun. MCC. $

BROWN DOG CAFÉ

If you haven’t had a plate of Shawn McCoy’s design set in front of you, it’s about time. Many of the menu’s dishes show his knack for the plate as a palette. A trio of grilled lamb t-bone, boar tenderloin, and prawns in scampi butter is a standout. The eye for detail and contrasts of colors and textures belongs to someone who cares for food.

1000 Summit Place, Blue Ash, (513) 794-1610, browndogcafe.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sat. MCC, DS. $$

COZY’S CAFÉ & PUB

On a visit to England, Jan Collins discovered the “cozy” atmosphere of London restaurants built in historic houses. She brought that warm, comfortable feeling back to the United States in opening Cozy’s. Though the atmosphere in the restaurant is reminiscent of Collins’s London travels, the food remains proudly American. The produce in virtually every dish is fresh, seasonal, and flavorful. The braised short rib stands out with its cheesy grits and haystack onions along with a portion of tender meat. And when it comes down to the classics, from the biscuits that open the meal to carrot cake at the end, Cozy’s does it right.

6440 Cincinnati Dayton Rd., Liberty Twp.,

DINING GUIDE

CINCINNATI MAGAZINE’S dining guide is compiled by our editors as a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a restaurant listing. The editors may add or delete restaurants based on their judgment. Because of space limitations, all

DOUGH NOT MISS

After a four-year delay, Hoity Toity Donut opens its first brick-and-mortar location in Walnut Hills this month. The artisanal doughnut shop— which will serve up flavors such as glazed vanilla bean, tequila sunrise, and lemon pistachio— will have daily giveaways for the first 50 guests during its opening weekend (September 15–17).

hoitytoitydonut.com

of the guide’s restaurants may not be included. Many restaurants have changing seasonal menus; dishes listed here are examples of the type of cuisine available and may not be on the menu when you visit.

To update listings, e-mail: cmletters@cincinnati magazine.com

(513) 644-9365, cozyscafeandpub.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$$

THE EAGLE OTR

The revamped post office at 13th and Vine feels cozy but not claustrophobic, and it has distinguished itself with its stellar fried chicken. Even the white meat was pull-apart steamy, with just enough peppery batter to pack a piquant punch. Diners can order by the quarter, half, or whole bird—but whatever you do, don’t skimp on the sides. Bacon adds savory mystery to crisp corn, green beans, and edamame (not limas) in the succotash, and the crock of mac and cheese has the perfect proportion of sauce, noodle, and crumb topping. The Eagle OTR seems deceptively simple on the surface, but behind that simplicity is a secret recipe built on deep thought, skill, and love.

1342 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 802-5007, eaglerestaurant.com. Lunch Fri–Sun, dinner Mon–Thurs. MCC. $

EMBERS

The menu here is built for celebration: poshly priced steak and sushi selections are meant to suit every special occasion. Appetizers are both classic (shrimp cocktail) and Asian-inspired (shrimp tempura); fashionable ingredients are name-checked (micro-greens and truffles); a prominent sushi section (nigiri, sashimi, and rolls) precedes a list of archetypal salads; Kobe beef on sushi rolls sidles up to steaks of prime; non-steak entrées (Chilean sea bass or Dover sole with haricots verts and almondine) make for high-style alternative selections. Talk about a party.

8170 Montgomery Rd., Madeira, (513) 9848090, embersrestaurant.com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DC, DS. $$$$

GREYHOUND TAVERN

Back in the streetcar days, this roughly 100-yearold roadhouse was at the end of the Dixie Highway line, where the cars turned around to head north. The place was called the Dixie Tea Room then, and they served ice cream. The fried chicken came along in the 1930s, and they’re still dishing it up today. Families and regulars alike pile in on Mondays and Tuesdays for the fried chicken dinner. While the juicy (never greasy) chicken with its lightly seasoned, crisp coating is the star, the side dishes—homemade biscuits, cole slaw, green

KEY: No checks unless specified.

AE American Express, DC Diners Club

DS Discover, MC MasterCard, V Visa

MCC Major credit cards: AE, MC, V

$ = Under $15

$$ = Up to $30

$$$ = Up to $49

$$$$ = $50 and up

Top10 = Named a Best Restaurant March 2023.

beans, mashed potatoes, and gravy—will make you ask for seconds. Call ahead no matter what night you choose: There’s bound to be a crowd. Not in the mood for chicken? Choose from steaks, seafood, sandwiches, and comfort food options that include meatloaf and a Kentucky Hot Brown. Or just try the onion rings. You’ll wonder where onions that big come from.

2500 Dixie Highway, Ft. Mitchell, (859) 3313767, greyhoundtavern.com. Lunch and dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$

GOOSE & ELDER

The third restaurant from chef Jose Salazar, Goose & Elder is a more everyday kind of joint compared to his others. The prices are lower, and most of the dishes, from burgers to grits, are familiar. Salazar’s menus have always hinted that the chef had a fondness for, well, junk food. But junk food is only junk if it is made thoughtlessly. Everything here is made with little twists, like the cumin-spiced potato chips and delicate ribbons of housemade cucumber pickles with a sweet rice wine vinegar. Even the fries, crinkle cut and served with “goose sauce,” a mildly spiced mayonnaise, are wonderfully addictive. The restaurant demonstrates that what we now consider “fast food” can be awfully good if someone makes it the old-fashioned, slow way.

1800 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 5798400, gooseandelder.com. Breakfast and lunch Mon & Wed–Fri, dinner Mon & Wed–Sun, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

THE NATIONAL EXEMPLAR

The classics are here—prime rib with horseradish and au jus; liver and onions; an eight-ounce filet with bernaise—plus some new favorites, including short rib pasta. Or have breakfast, English-style: fried eggs, bacon, sausage, stewed beans, roasted tomatoes, and buttered toast. The dinner menu also features burgers, risotto, pasta, seafood, and plenty more lighter options.

6880 Wooster Pke., Mariemont, (513) 2712103, nationalexemplar.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

THE NORTHSTAR CAFÉ

In Northstar’s first outpost beyond the Greater Columbus area, the space itself reflects the ethos of the food: warm and comfortable, but still mod-

ern and fresh. The dinner and cocktail menus are fab, as is the large bar. But breakfast is worth waking up early for. Take the mushroom frittata, made with meaty mushrooms, caramelized sweet onions, and Gruyère. The portions are no joke—that frittata comes with breakfast potatoes and arugula—yet it doesn’t feel gluttonous or excessive. In large part that’s due to the freshness (e.g., the sausage made inhouse daily) and the abundance of healthy options. One of our favorites: the shooting star juice, a balanced blend of carrot, ginger, orange, and lemon.

7610 Sloan Way, Liberty Township, (513) 759-0033, thenorthstarcafe.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. MCC. No cash. $

OTTO’S

Chef/owner Paul Weckman opened Otto’s, named after his father-in-law, with $300 worth of food and one employee—himself. Weckman’s food is soothing, satisfying, and occasionally, too much of a good thing. His tomato pie is beloved by lunch customers: Vine-ripe tomatoes, fresh basil, and chopped green onions packed into a homemade pie shell, topped with a cheddar cheese spread, and baked until bubbly. Weckman’s straightforward preparations are best. The shrimp and grits with sauteed shrimp spinach, mushrooms, Cajun beurre blanc atop a fried grit cake, short ribs braised in red wine and herbs, served over mashed potatoes with green beans and caramelized baby carrots that will bring you the comfort of a home-cooked meal. This is, at its heart, a neighborhood restaurant, a place with its own large, quirky family.

521 Main St., Covington, (859) 491-6678, ottosonmain. com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Fri, brunch and dinner Sat–Mon. MCC. $$

QUATMAN CAFÉ

The quintessential neighborhood dive, Quatman’s sits in the shadow of the Our Lady of the Holy Spirit Center, serving up a classic bar burger. Look elsewhere if you like your burger with exotic toppings: This half-pound of grilled beef is served with lettuce, tomato, onion, and pickle. Sometimes cheese. The no-frills theme is straightforward and appealing. A menu of standard sandwich fare and smooth mock turtle soup; beer on tap or soda in cans (no wine or liquor); and checkered tablecloths, serving baskets, and plenty of kitsch is served daily. Peppered with regulars, families, and political discussions, Quatman’s is far from fancy. But it is fun, fast, and delicious.

2434 Quatman Ave., Norwood, (513) 731-4370, quatmancafe.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MC, V, DS, MCC. $

RED FEATHER KITCHEN

Historically peasant-grade cuts of meat get the full Pygmalion treatment at Red Feather in Oakley, where there’s deep respect for the time and tending necessary to bring a short rib, pork chop, or steak to its full potential. After a quick sear to lock in juices, the steak takes a turn in the wood-fired oven. While primal cuts play a leading role, the supporting cast is just as captivating. The French onion soup is especially warming on a winter evening and the crispy skin on the salmon acts as the foil to the plump, rich flesh. Service here only improves the experience.

3200 Madison Rd., Oakley, (513) 407-3631, redfeatherkitchen.com. Dinner Wed–Sat, brunch Sun.

MCC. $$$

RON’S ROOST

They stake their reputation on their fried chicken, serving 10,000 pieces weekly. It takes a few minutes, since each batch is made to order. Ron’s also serves chicken 18 other ways, including chicken livers in gravy. It’s all about the chicken here, but that’s not all they have. The menu is five solid pages of stuff good enough to be called specialties: Oktoberfest sauerbraten, Black Angus cheeseburgers, fried whitefish on rye, hot bacon slaw, lemon meringue pie (homemade, of course), and the best Saratoga chips this side of Saratoga.

3853 Race Rd., Bridgetown, (513) 574-0222, ronsroost. net. Breakfast Sun, lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

SOUL SECRETS

You no longer need an event to celebrate with a fish fry. At Candice Holloway’s restaurant, Soul Secrets, fried chicken and fish are always on the menu. Servers wearing T-shirts

that read “my ancestors sent me” introduce guests to a trim menu full of the best soul food. You can’t go wrong with the fish platters. The whiting is good, but the catfish is divine. The cornmeal breading is so perfectly seasoned you won’t need salt, and the light crunch it adds doesn’t hide the star of the show. So soft it’s nearly fluffy, the catfish melts in your mouth. Each catfish platter delivers two enormous pieces of fish along with two sides and a cornbread muffin that may be the best in Cincinnati. This is the kind of meal you take home with you—not just in your heart but in a box—because chances are low you’ll conquer all the fish and sides in one go.

1434 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 721-7685, soulsecretscincy.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $

SUGAR N’ SPICE

This Paddock Hills diner, with other locations in Over-theRhine and Blue Ash, has been dishing up wispy-thin pancakes and football-sized omelettes to Cincinnatians since FDR was signing new deals. Breakfast and lunch offerings mix old-hat classics like steak and eggs, corned beef hash, and basic burgers with funky iterations that draw on ethnic ingredients such as chorizo and tzatziki. Get here early if you don’t want to stand in line.

4381 Reading Rd., Paddock Hills, (513)242-3521; 1203 Sycamore St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 762-0390; 10275 Summit Pkwy., Blue Ash, (513) 447-6453, eatsugarnspice. com. Breakfast and lunch seven days. MCC. $

TANO BISTRO

This Loveland bistro is comfortable, with reasonably priced food and amenable service. The menu is tidy—25 or so dishes divided between appetizers, salads, and entrées, plus two or three specials—its flavor profile partially influenced by a childhood growing up in a third generation Italian family. Most of Tano Bistro’s main courses lean toward the comfortable side of American. For instance, Williams serves a stuffed salmon and an allegiance pork chop. The sprout & snout appetizer is also worth a trip to Loveland, combining balsamic-drizzled brussels sprouts with sliced pork belly.

204 W. Loveland Ave., Loveland, (513) 683-8266, foodbytano.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$$

TRIO

Trio is nothing if not a crowd pleaser. Whether you’re in the mood for a California-style pizza or filet mignon (with roasted red potatoes, sauteed spinach, crispy onions, and a red wine demi glace), the menu is broad enough to offer something for everyone. It may lack a cohesive point of view, but with the number of regulars who come in seven nights a week, variety is Trio’s ace in the hole. A simple Margherita pizza with roma tomatoes, basil, Parmesan, and mozzarella delivered a fine balance of crunchy crust, soft cheese, and sweet, roasted tomatoes. Paired with a glass of pinot noir, it made a perfect light meal. The service is friendly enough for a casual neighborhood joint but comes with white tablecloth attentiveness and knowledge. Combine that with the consistency in the kitchen, and Trio is a safe bet.

7565 Kenwood Rd., Kenwood, (513) 984-1905, triobistro.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DC. $$

YORK STREET CAFÉ

Five blocks from the Newport riverfront, Terry and Betsy Cunningham have created the sort of comfortable, welcoming environment that encourages steady customers. A dependable menu and quirky atmosphere appeal to a broad range of diners, from non-adventurous visiting relatives to non-attentive children. Desserts have always been one of the stars: flourless chocolate hazelnut torte, bittersweet, rich and moist; butter rum pudding that would be equally at home on a picnic table or a finely dressed Michelin-starred table.

738 York St., Newport, (859) 261-9675, yorkstonline. com. Lunch Tues–Fri. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

BARBECUE

BEE’S BARBEQUE

You’ll want to get to Bee’s Barbecue in Madisonville early if you want to avoid the line of friendly regulars. The res-

taurant’s smoker churns out a variety of meats—including brisket, pulled pork, ribs, turkey breast, and two kinds of sausage—so it’s easy to see why they keep coming back. If you enjoy the spicy grease that oozes out of a good chorizo, you’ll love the Cincinnati Hot Link, which tastes like the delicious love child of a chorizo and a hot mett. Word to the wise: Bee’s opens at 11 a.m. and closes when they run out of meat. Understandably, this doesn’t take long.

5910 Chandler St., Madisonville, (513) 561-2337, beesbarbecue.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Sat. MCC. $

ELI’S BBQ

Elias Leisring started building his pulled pork reputation under canopies at Findlay Market and Fountain Square in 2011. Leisring’s proper little ’cue shack along the river serves up ribs that are speaking-in-tongues good, some of the zazziest jalapeño cheese grits north of the MasonDixon line, and browned mashed potatoes that would make any short order cook diner-proud. The small no-frills restaurant—packed cheek-by-jowl most nights—feels like it’s been there a lifetime, with customers dropping vinyl on the turntable, dogs romping in the side yard, and picnic tables crowded with diners. The hooch is bring-your-own, and the barbecue is bona fide.

3313 Riverside Dr., East End, (513) 533-1957, elisbarbeque.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $

SINNERS & SAINTS TAVERN

You won’t leave this Texas smokehouse/sports bar hungry. From the brisket—served with Texas BBQ sauce, white bread, and pickles, or on toasted sourdough—to the chicken thighs, you can’t go wrong with these richly smoked flavors. Several dishes, like the Korean style pork belly, the pulled pork naan tacos, and Bigos stew, draw on global influences, while the sides take flavors back to the country (try the creamy coleslaw, the house-made mac and cheese, and chili-spiced cornbread). The restaurant’s character shines through its decor, which includes hanging hockey memorabilia, pictures of public figures and tables made from real NBA courts.

2062 Riverside Dr., East End, (513) 281-4355, sinsaintsmoke.com. Lunch Sat & Sun, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$

CAJUN/ CARIBBEAN

BREWRIVER CREOLE

More than 800 miles from New Orleans, this may be as close as you can get to the real deal here in your own backyard. The menu fully leans into Chef Michael Shields’s penchant for cuisine from the Crescent City. His six years of training under NOLA’s own Emeril Lagasse comes through in a scratch kitchen menu that spans a range of the city’s classics. The enormous shrimp and oyster po’ boys—the former protein fried in a light and crispy beer batter and the latter in a hearty cornmeal breading—are served on fluffy French bread loaves and dressed with lightly spicy rémoulades. The jambalaya packs all the heat of a late summer day in the French Quarter without masking a hint of its satisfying flavors. Paired with a Sazerac and nightly live jazz, you may just feel tempted to start a second line.

4632 Eastern Ave., Linwood, (513) 861-2484, brewrivercreolekitchen.com. Dinner Tues–Sun, brunch and lunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $

SWAMPWATER GRILL

At first blush, this place is a dive where homesick Cajuns can find a good pile of jambalaya. But thoughtful details like draft Abita Root Beer and char-grilled Gulf Coast oysters on the half shell signal its ambition. Bayou standards like jambalaya, gumbo, and fried seafood also make an appearance. But the extensive menu also features amped up pub-style items for those who may be squeamish about crawfish tails (which can be added to just about anything on the menu). You’ll also find a roundup of oyster, shrimp, catfish, and alligator Po’Boys, as well as a selection of hardwood-smoked meats.

3742 Kellogg Ave., East End, (513) 834-7067, swampwatergrill.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Sun, brunch Sat & Sun. V, MC, DS, AMEX. $$

KNOTTY PINE ON THE BAYOU

The Pine serves some of the best Louisiana home-style food you’ll find this far north of New Orleans. Taste the fried catfish filets with their peppery crust, or the garlic sauteed shrimp with smoky greens on the side, and you’ll understand why it’s called soul food. Between March and June, it’s crawfish season. Get them boiled and heaped high on a platter or in a superb crawfish etouffee. But the rockin’ gumbo—a thick, murky brew of andouille sausage, chicken, and vegetables—serves the best roundhouse punch all year round. As soon as you inhale the bouquet and take that first bite, you realize why Cajun style food is considered a high art form and a serious pleasure. And you’ll start planning your return trip.

6302 Licking Pke., Cold Spring, (859) 781-2200, theknottypineonthebayou.com. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

CHINESE

AMERASIA

A sense of energetic fun defines this tiny Chinese spot with a robust beer list. The glossy paper menu depicts Master Chef Rich Chu as a “Kung Food” master fighting the evil fast-food villain with dishes like “fly rice,” “Brocco-Lee,” and “Big Bird’s Nest.” Freshness rules. Pot stickers, dumplings, and wontons are hand shaped. The Dragon’s Breath wontons will invade your dreams. Seasoned ground pork, onion, and cilantro meatballs are wrapped in egg dough, wok simmered, and topped with thick, spicy red pepper sauce and

fresh cilantro. Noodles are clearly Chef Chu’s specialty, with zonxon (a tangle of thin noodles, finely chopped pork, and mushrooms cloaked in spicy dark sauce and crowned with peanuts and cilantro) and Matt Chu’s Special (shaved rice noodle, fried chicken, and seasonal vegetables in gingery white sauce) topping the menu’s flavor charts.

521 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 261-6121 , amerasia. carry-out.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Sat. MCC. $

GREAT TANG

Although the (24-page!) menu features classic dishes in every style, the specialty at Great Tang is the refined coastal cuisine of Zhejiang. If you like spice, you can get still the Sichuanese and Hunanese classics. One dish will hint at the surprises in store for people who are mainly used to Chinese takeout: the lovely Xian cold noodle. The dish is exquisitely layered: the creamy and nutty undertone of sesame paste, mixed with notes of tang and spice, topped with the bright pop of cilantro. The combination of textures is also delightful, with crunches of cucumber and sprouted mung and the softness of the flat noodles. And that tofu! It was wonderfully meaty, with dense layers, substantial and satisfying as a counterpart to the noodles. Be as brave as you are in the mood to be. Ask for some suggestions and prepare to be astonished.

7340 Kingsgate Way, West Chester, (513) 847-6097, greattangohio.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Mon, dim sum Sat & Sun. V, DS, MC, AMEX. $$

ORIENTAL WOK

When Mike and Helen Wong opened Oriental Wok in 1977, the couple wanted to recreate the glamor and refinement of the Hong Kong-Cantonese cuisine they knew. Today, locals and expats alike enjoy authentic Chinese and ChineseAmerican dishes in dining rooms reminiscent of Beijing. Beyond the elephant tusk entryway and fish ponds and fountains is the warmth and hospitality of the Wong family, service on par with the finest establishments, and very, very good food. Best are the fresh fish: salmon, grouper and

sea bass steamed, grilled or fried in a wok, needing little more than the ginger-green onion sauce that accompanies them. Oriental Wok is the tri-state’s longest-running familyowned Chinese restaurant for a reason.

317 Buttermilk Pke., Ft. Mitchell, (859) 331-3000; 2444 Madison Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 871-6888, orientalwok. com. Lunch Mon–Fri (Ft. Mitchell; buffet Sun 11–2:30), lunch Tues–Sat (Hyde Park), dinner Mon–Sat (Ft. Mitchell) dinner Tues–Sun (Hyde Park). MCC. $$

THE PACIFIC KITCHEN

TThe monster of a menu can be dizzying. Ease in with some top-notch Korean Wings. These slightly bubbly, shattercrisp wings are painted with a thin gochujang chili sauce (a foil to the fat). It takes 24 hours to prep the Cantonese duck, between a honey-vinegar brine to dry the skin, a marinade of star anise, bean paste, and soy within the re-sealed cavity, and the crispy convection oven finish. Dolsot bibimbap had plenty of crispy rice at the bottom of the stone bowl, and the accompanying banchan were soothing yet flavorful. Even dishes like a Malaysian goat stew resonated with rich, original flavors..

8300 Market Place Lane, Montgomery, (513) 898-1833, thepacific.kitchen. Lunch and dinner Mon & Wed–Sun, dim sum lunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

ECLECTIC

ABIGAIL STREET

Cocktail Ice

Top10

Most people who’ve eaten at Abigail Street have favorite dishes that they order every visit: the Moroccan spiced broccoli, for example, or the mussels charmoula, with its perfect balance of saffron, creaminess, and tomatoey acidity. Many of the new items on the menu have the same perfected feeling as these classics. Working within a loose framework of Middle Eastern and

North African flavors, Abigail Street has never fallen into a routine that would sap its energy. New offerings like the wood-grilled kefta, with charred tomatoes, peppers, and whipped tahini, feel just as accomplished as old favorites like the falafel, beautifully moist and crumbly with a bright parsley interior.The restaurant is always watching for what works and what will truly satisfy, ready to sacrifice the superficially interesting in favor of the essential.

1214 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 421-4040, abigailstreet.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

Top10 BOUQUET RESTAURANT AND WINE BAR

Normally diners aren’t pleased when a restaurant runs out of something. At Bouquet, though, surprise changes to the menu are simply a sign of integrity. Chef-owner Stephen Williams is serious about using seasonal ingredients, and if the figs have run out or there is no more chicken from a local farm, so be it. The flavors at Bouquet are about doing justice to what’s available. Preparations are unfussy, complexity coming from within the vegetables and proteins themselves. A spring salad—wonderfully fresh and vibrant, so you know the strawberries included have just come off a nearby vine—is dressed with candy-striped beets, jerk-seasoned pepitas and whipped goat cheese. This determination to make something delicious out of what’s on hand, to embrace limitations, gives the food at Bouquet a rustic, soulful quality.

519 Main St., Covington, (859) 491-7777, bouquetrestaurant.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

CHÉ

This Walnut Street spot draws on authentic Argentine recipes, including the empanadas. Choose from more than a dozen different crispy, perfectly cinched dough pockets, with fillings ranging from traditional (a mixture of cuminspiced beef, hard-boiled egg, and olives) to experimental (mushrooms, feta, green onion, and mozzarella). There are

also six different dipping sauces to choose from, but you need not stray from the house chimichurri.

1342 Walnut St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 345-8838, checincinnati.com. Lunch Tues–Sun, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. V, MCC, DC, AMEX. $$

THE GOVERNOR

This Milford restaurant playfully elevates diner classics. Breakfast is available all day so if you’re looking to greet the morning with decadence, try the ricotta toast, a thick slab of brioche toast smothered in ricotta and fresh, seasonal jams. Sandwiches also get an inventive twist here. The “Governor Tso’s chicken”—a crispy fried chicken breast glazed with a General Tso’s–inspired sauce, topped with apricot slaw and served on a toasted brioche bun—is a gigantic, happy mess of a sandwich, but the sweet glaze faintly evokes the namesake “General” while letting the sublimely fried chicken lead the charge. Order a side of crinkle cut fries and ask for the housemade Maple Thousand Island dipping sauce. (You’ll thank us later.)

231 Main St., Milford, (513) 239-8298, governordiner. com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. Brunch and lunch Sun. MCC. $

THE LITTLEFIELD

Inside a modest 1,500 square-foot space on Spring Grove, just south of Hamilton Avenue, at least 70-odd bourbons behind the bar drive this little restaurant’s philosophy. The menu is meant to be limited, the better to support and celebrate the bottled flavors up front. There are surprises: a faint hint of curry powder deepens the moody cauliflower fritters; skewered golf-balls of mild, peppery ground lamb get a faint crust from the final sear. You’ll also want to order the smoked pork katsu. Panko crusted cutlets of pork, topped with tonkatsu sauce, served with sesame ginger slaw and kewpie mayo. The signature chicken and corn chowder is exactly what you need on a cold winter’s day.

3934 Spring Grove Ave., Northside, (513) 386-7570, littlefieldns.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Sat & Sun. V, MC. $

Celebrate Life

MAPLEWOOD KITCHEN

At Maplewood, you order at the counter, then find a table, and a server will deliver what you’ve selected. There’s no cohesive cuisine, rather, the menu takes its cue from all corners of the globe: chicken tinga, Verlasso salmon skewers, and a guajillo bowl are all represented, along with appetizing sides like lemon hummus and lavash chips . Brunch is available all day so try the light lemon ricotta pancakes or the satisfying avocado benedict.

525 Race St., downtown, (513) 421-2100, maplewoodkitchenandbar.com. Breakfast and lunch seven days. MCC. $$

MASHROOTS

After serving mofongo at Findlay Market for nearly four years, Mashroots opened its first brick-and-mortar spot in College Hill before landing at Element Eatery food hall. For the uninitiated, mofongo is a traditional Puerto Rican dish of mashed fried plantains with garlic and olive oil, typically served with protein and sauce. Here, you can get plantain, yuca, or sweet potato as your root and a protein, like skirt steak or pulled chicken. Top it off with veggies (pinkslaw, vinagrete, citruscarrot) and a sauce (pink mayo, anyone?), and wash it all down with refreshing cocktails made with rum and harder-to-find spirits.

5350 Medpace Way, Madisonville, (513) 620-4126, mashroots.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $

MELT REVIVAL

In this Northside sandwich joint, the restaurant’s name pretty much dictates what you should get. Diners have their choice of sandwiches, including the vegetarian cheesesteak—seitan (a meat substitute) topped with roasted onions, peppers, and provolone—and the J.L.R. Burger, a black bean or veggie patty served with cheese, tomato, lettuce and housemade vegan mayo. For those who require meat in their meals, try the verde chicken melt: juicy pieces of chicken intermingle with pesto, zucchini, and provolone. Not sure you’ll want a whole sandwich? Try one of the halve-

sies, a half-salad, half-soup selection popular with the lunch crowd.

4100 Hamilton Ave., Northside, (513) 8188951, meltrevival.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Fri, breakfast, lunch, and dinner Sat, brunch Sun. MCC, DS. $

NICHOLSON’S

To remind local diners that they were here before those young dog-toting punks with their exposed brick and crafty ales in Over-the-Rhine, Nicholson’s branded themselves Cincinnati’s “first and finest gastropub,” and revamped the menu to include plenty of snacks and small plates for grazing, and not-quite-brawny, straightforward sandwiches and main dishes. Try the Faroe Island salmon, bowl of cock-a-leekie soup, or check out the shepherd’s or Scottish BBQ style burgers or the turkey reuben with Russian dressing. And the bar’s clubby intimacy makes it easy to belly up and enjoy their impressive collection of single malts or a Scottish ale.

625 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 564-9111, nicholsonspub.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

NOLIA

Chef/Owner Jeffery Harris, a New Orleans native, prepares the cuisine of his beloved city with sophistication and flair, drawing on all the influences that have contributed to the cuisine of the Big Easy—from West African to French to Japanese to Haitian. The menu changes seasonally, with al-

most a complete overhaul each time. If classic New Orleans dishes do show up on the menu, they’re likely to get delightfully unexpected touches. Take the duck and oyster gumbo. Harris deconstructs the typical stew, building on a base of popcorn rice, instead of the more typical long grain, and a decadent duck fat roux. It’s exquisitely prepared food served in a funky, laid-back atmosphere.

1405 Clay St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 384-3597, noliakitchen.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$

OKTO

This lively mash-up is a telling symbol of Earth+Ocean Restaurant Group’s flexible approach to traditional food. In what other Greek restaurant would the best cocktail be a smoky, chile-laced paloma, normally associated with Mexico? Or would the dish of lamb chops come dressed with gremolata, which we’ve never seen on anything but Italian food? E+O has always prided itself on its eclectic take on regional cuisine and they serve up something similarly fun and varied here. Those looking for classic Greek food will find plenty to satisfy them. The lamb kebabs, served ground, with the classic roasted tomato on the side; or the Via bowls, featuring tomatoes, olives, cucumbers, feta, red onion, tzatziki, and your choice of protein served atop a bed of couscous. The fun Okto has with Greek cuisine means there is already plenty that is good, plus plenty of room to grow.

645 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 632-9181, oktocincinnati.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$

PAMPAS

Much like American food, Argentine cuisine is a melting pot shaped by immigration, particularly from Italy and Germany, and with plenty of meat on the plate. You see that mix in the menu, but

Pampas puts parrillada, the Argentine method of cooking over an open flame, front and center. The chimichurri appears throughout the menu, and does wonders wherever it goes. Spicy, tart, and filled with the flavor of oregano, it wakes up the marinated skirt steak. Magnificent desserts deserve special mention. The dolce de leche crème brule, with its caramelized sugar crust and shaved chocolate, is particularly popular.

2036 Madison Rd., O’Bryonville, (513) 3210863, pampascincinnati.com. Brunch Sun, dinner Tues–Sun. V, DS, MC, AMEX. $$

THE QUARTER BISTRO

The Quarter Bistro has multiple personalities: one part clubby neighborhood joint, one part dinner and a movie with a dash of lusty romance. The Bistro Burger, a half-pound of black Angus beef, is seasoned but not overly so, with a sturdy-butnot-too-chewy bun. The 18-hour short ribs are the star, and reason enough to skip the movie next door. Braised into a flavor bomb of meat candy, it’s served with papardelle pasta, roasted vegetables, and onion straws. With the no-lip service, The Quarter Bistro could be well on the way to making middle age look sexy.

6904 Wooster Pke., Mariemont, (513) 2715400, qbcincy.com. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

RUTH’S PARKSIDE CAFÉ

The spiritual successor of Mullane’s Parkside Café, Ruth’s brings back the vegetable-forward menu with a few concessions to contemporary tastes. Dinner options now include steaks and heavier entrées. But the stir-fries, beans and rice, pasta, and the traditional option to add a protein to an entrée (tofu, tempeh, chicken, or local chorizo) for an upcharge are all old standards. While dishes are

TUNE IN

Over-the-Rhine mainstay Queen City Radio plans to open a second location in College Hill next summer. The bar and beer garden, known for its craft beers and cocktails as well as bourbon slushies, will be housed in a former car repair shop on Hamilton Avenue, within the neighborhood’s Designated Outdoor Refreshment Area (DORA). qcrbar.com

generally hearty, they are rarely too rich, leaving room to freely consider dessert. There is a small selection of baked goods, including a gooey butter cake, homemade fruit pies, and Madisono’s Gelato.

1550 Blue Rock St., Northside, (513) 542-7884, ruthscafe.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$

SACRED BEAST

Sacred Beast advertises itself as a kind of upscale diner, but the real gems are the oddball dishes that don’t quite fit the diner mold. The menu can be disorienting in its eclecticism: foie gras torchon is next to fries with lobster gravy, and a king salmon is next to a diner breakfast and deviled eggs. Winners are scattered throughout the menu in every category. On the cocktail list, the Covington Iced Tea, a lemon and coffee concoction made with cold brew, San Pellegrino, and vodka is oddly satisfying. The service is good, and there is some flair about the place—including vintage touches, from the facsimile reel-to-reel audio system to the mostly classic cocktails—even within its rather chilly industrial design. In short, go for the unique grub; stay for the elegant, shareable twists on classic snacks.

1437 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 213-2864, sacredbeastdiner.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Sun. MCC. $$

SALAZAR

A freewheeling tour through Korean, Moroccan, Italian, and French flavors—and that’s just on one iteration of the everevolving menu. Salazar turns out fresh, well-balanced dishes dotted with seasonal surprises: the cauliflower steak special (a Moroccan spiced, seared wedge of the cruciferous vegetable complemented by a strong hit of lemon), the chicken liver mousse (so good it deserves its own trophy), and the succulent chicken Milanese (with its musky, sweet-and-sour notes of ground cherry). With its bustling bar and cheek-byjowl tables, Salazar hums with energy at every meal.

1401 Republic St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 621-7000, salazarcincinnati.com. Dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

SENATE

Ever since it began dishing out its lo-fi eats, Chef Dan Wright’s gastropub has been operating at a velocity few can match. From the howl and growl of supremely badass hot dogs to the palate-rattling poutine, Senate has led the charge in changing the local conventional wisdom about what makes a great restaurant. Consumption of mussels charmoula means either ordering additional grilled bread to soak up every drop of the herby, saffron-laced broth or drinking the remainder straight from the bowl and perfectly crisped and seasoned fries inspire countless return visits.

1100 Summit Place Dr., Blue Ash, (513) 769-0099, senateblueash.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MC, V, DS. $

THE STANDARD

Owners Paul Weckman and Emily Wolff offer a pared down menu of five to seven rotating small plates, plus seven sandwiches. It’s simple but satisfying, with a small-town diner vibe. After a complete menu overhaul that shifted the restaurant away from its Pan-Asian street food concept, The Standard focuses on Americana classics, like smoked brisket chopped cheese, smash burgers, smoked wings, and chili.

434 Main St., Covington, (859) 360-0731, facebook. com/thestandardcov. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $

TASTE OF BELGIUM

Jean-François Flechet’s waffle empire grew from a back counter of Madison’s grocery at Findlay Market to multiple full-service sit-down spots. There’s more on the menu than the authentic Belgian treat, though it would be a crime to miss the chicken and waffles: a dense, yeasty waffle topped with a succulent buttermilk fried chicken breast, Frank’s hot sauce, and maple syrup. There are also frites, of course, and Brussels sprouts—served with pancetta and sherry vinaigrette—plus a gem of a Bolognese. And let’s not forget the beer. Five rotating taps offer some of the best the Belgians brew, not to mention those made in town.

1133 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 381-4607, and other locations, authenticwaffle.com. Breakfast and lunch Mon–Sat, dinner Tues–Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $

20 BRIX

This restaurant mixes Mediterranean influences with homespun choices, and he comes up with some marvelous food. Lamb meatballs with melted onions and romesco sauce are sweet and peppery, and their simplicity partners well with a lush Zinfandel. The excellent wine list, arranged by flavor profiles within the varietals, features dozens of varieties by the glass in five-ounce or two-ounce pours, which makes it easy to try several.

101 Main St., Milford, (513) 831-2749, 20brix.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS, DC. $$

YUCA

Yuca is in The Fairfield’s former space, retaining much of the same modern, airy, and inviting café vibes with a neighborhood feel, but boasting a menu certainly worth a commute. In the mood for a hearty breakfast? Indulge in the Fat Zach, a heaping corn gordita packed to the brim with chicken, chorizo, and scrambled egg, served with avocado, pineapple pico, and sweet and spicy potatoes. There’s a full drink menu ranging from coffee to Bloody Marys—or a selection of margaritas and palomas if you’re looking to stick around.

700 Fairfield Ave., Bellevue, (859) 360-0110, yucabycedar.com. Breakfast and lunch Tues–Sun. MCC. $

FRENCH

CHEZ RENÉE FRENCH BISTROT

Based on American stereotypes of French food—that it’s elaborate, elitist, and expensive—one might expect Chez Renée to fall on the chichi side. Instead, it’s elegant in an

everyday way, operating on the principle that it is better to excel at simplicity than to badly execute something complicated. The formula is not complex: Simple ingredients, generally fresh and from nearby, prepared without much fuss. Warmed brie is served with thyme, almonds, fruit, and bread, and the chicken risotto is served with creamy mushrooms. This is solid, tasty food, both approachable and well executed. It’s well on its way to becoming, as a good bistrot should be, a neighborhood institution.

233 Main St., Milford, (513) 428-0454, chezreneefrenchbistrot.com. Friday–Sat and dinner Wed–Sat. MCC. $$

FRENCH CRUST

Located in the old Globe Furniture building at the corner of Elm and Elder Streets, this Jean-Robert de Cavel creation offers French fare in the heart of Over-the-Rhine. Swing by for lunch and have a quiche Lorraine (French Crust’s quiches are unrivaled in our humble opinion) and an avocado and shrimp salad, or opt for a more hearty entree—like bouillabaisse or cassoulet—for dinner. If you’re an early bird, a Croque Monsieur (sunny side up egg) is a great way to start the day.

1801 Elm St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 455-3720, frenchcrustcafe.com. Breakfast and lunch Wed–Sun, dinner Thurs–Sun. MCC. $$

Top10 LE BAR A BOEUF

If it’s been a couple of years since you’ve been to Le Bar a Boeuf—Jean-Robert de Cavel’s funyet-refined French bistro located on the first floor of the Edgecliff Private Residences in East Walnut Hills—it may be time for a revisit. The formerly burger-centric menu now

approaches the full repertoire of bistro classics. The menu reads like a greatest hits list of bistro fare, with escargot, beef tartare, duck leg confit, steak frites, and French onion soup all making appearances. As France’s influence on American fine dining has waned, it’s refreshing to see a restaurant committed to not only preserving the French classics but reinvigorating them.

2200 Victory Pkwy., East Walnut Hills, (513) 751-2333, barboeuf.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$

INDIAN

AMMA’S KITCHEN

Muthu “Kumar” Muthiah serves traditional southern Indian and Indo-Chinese vegetarian cuisine, but with a sizable Orthodox Jewish community nearby, Muthia saw an opportunity: If he was going to cook vegetarian, why not also make it kosher? Muthiah prepares every item— from the addictively crunchy gobhi Manchurian, a spicy Chinese cauliflower dish, to the lemon pickle, tamarind, and mint sauces—entirely from scratch under the careful eye of Rabbi Michoel Stern. Always 80 percent vegan, the daily lunch buffet is 100 percent animal-product-free on Wednesdays. Tuck into a warm and savory channa masala (spiced chickpeas) or malai kofta (vegetable dumplings in tomato sauce) from the curry menu. Or tear into a crispy, two-foot diameter dosa (chickpea flour crepe) stuffed with spiced onions and potatoes.

7633 Reading Rd., Roselawn, (513) 821-2021, ammaskitchen.com. Lunch buffet seven days (all-vegan on Wed), dinner seven days. MC, V, DS. $

BRIJ MOHAN

Order at the counter the way you might at a fast food joint, except the shakes come in mango and there’s no

super-sizing your mint lassi. The saag, full of cream in most northern Indian restaurants, is as intensely flavored as collard greens in the Deep South—real Punjabi soul food. Tarka dal is spectacular here, the black lentils smoky from charred tomatoes and onions, and the pani puri, hollow fried shells into which you spoon a peppery cold broth, burst with tart cool crunch. Follow the spice with soothing ras malai, freshly made cheese simmered in thick almond-flavored milk, cooled and sprinkled with crushed pistachios.

11259 Reading Rd., Sharonville, (513) 769-4549, brijmohancincinnati.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MC, V, DC, AMEX. $

ITALIAN ADRIATICO’S

Everything about this place says it’s about the pizza: the herbed sauce, the assault of the cheese, the toppings. It’s all evenly distributed, so you get a taste in every bite. Adriatico’s still delivers the tastiest pizza in Clifton. On any given night the aroma wafts through every dorm on campus. It’s that popular because it’s that good. Being inexpensive doesn’t hurt either.

113 W. McMillan St., Clifton Heights, (513) 281-4344, adriaticosuc.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $

NICOLA’S

Chef/Restaurateur Cristian Pietoso carries on the legacy of his father, Nicola, as the elder Pietoso’s Over-the-Rhine eatery celebrates 25 years in business. Nicola’s has entered a new era of exuberant creativity under the leadership of chef Jack Hemmer. You can still get the old Italian classics, and they’ll be as good as ever, but the rest of the menu has blossomed

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Photograph by Amanda Burman of Burman

Photography

CORNER SPOT

The Thunderdome Restaurant Group has its sights set on the former Royce spot at Fifth and Vine streets downtown. The group, which owns foodie favorites like Krueger’s Tavern, The Eagle, and Pepp & Dolores, plans to open an “American brasserie” where the former French brasserie operated for six months before closing its doors abruptly in February.

thunderdomerest aurants.com

into a freewheeling tour of modern American cuisine. Any establishment paying this level of attention to detail—from the candied slice of blood orange on the mascarpone cheesecake to the staff ’s wine knowledge—is going to put out special meals. Rarely have humble insalate been so intricately delicious, between the perfectly nested ribbons of beets in the pickled beet salad or the balance of bitterness, funkiness, and creaminess in the endive and Gorgonzola salad. Order an old favorite, by all means, but make sure you try something new, too.

1420 Sycamore St., Pendleton, (513) 721-6200, nicolasotr.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DC, DS.

$$$

PRIMAVISTA

Besides offering the old world flavors of Italy, Primavista also serves up a specialty no other restaurant can match: a bird’s eye view of Cincinnati from the west side. The kitchen is equally comfortable with northern and southern regional specialties: a Venetian carpaccio of paper thin raw beef sparked by fruity olive oil; housemade fresh mozzarella stuffed with pesto and mushrooms; or artichoke hearts with snails and mushrooms in a creamy Gorgonzola sauce from Lombardy. Among the classics, nothing is more restorative than the pasta e fagioli, a hearty soup of cannellini, ditali pasta, and bacon. Most of the pastas are cooked just a degree more mellow than al dente so that they soak up the fragrant tomato basil or satiny cream sauces. The forktender osso buco Milanese, with its marrow-filled center bone and salty-sweet brown sauce (marinara and lemon juice), is simply superb. Desserts present further problems; you’ll be hard-pressed to decide between the house-made tiramisu or bread pudding with caramel sauce, marsala soaked raisins, and cream.

810 Matson Pl., Price Hill, (513) 251-6467, pvista.com. Dinner Wed–Sun. MCC, DC, DS. $$

SOTTO

JAPANESE

ANDO

You don’t go just anywhere to dine on uni sashimi (sea urchin) or tanshio (thinly sliced charcoalgrilled beef tongue). Don’t miss the rich and meaty chyu toro (fatty big-eye tuna), or the pucker-inducing umeshiso maki (pickled plum paste and shiso leaf roll). Noodles are also well represented, with udon, soba, or ramen options available. And don’t forget to ask about the specials; owners Ken and Keiko Ando always have something new, be it grilled koji or marinated amberjack smoked salmon crudo, delicacies that you’ll be hard-pressed to find in any of those Hyde Park pan-Asian wannabes. The only thing you won’t find here is sake, or any other alcohol. Bring your own, or stick to the nutty and outright addicting barley tea.

5889 Pfeiffer Rd., Blue Ash, (513) 954-0041, andojapaneserestaurant.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$$

KIKI

KOREAN

HARU

After the closing of Sung Korean Bistro, Haru is a welcome addition to the downtown scene. Dishes are served along with the usual Korean accompaniment of pickles, kimchi, fish cakes, and other mysteriously delicious dainties. A favorite is the japchae, a traditional dish sporting silky sweet potato noodles with sesame-and-garlic sauce, matchsticks of assorted crisp vegetables, and behind it all a wonderful smokiness that pervades the whole meal. The accompanying pot of gochujang, a fermented Korean chili paste, adds its own sweet and spicy note. The result is a homey, soulful, and satisfying taste that appeals even to those who’ve never eaten a bite of Korean food before. 628 Vine St., downtown, (513) 381-0947, harucincy.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$

RIVERSIDE KOREAN RESTAURANT

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There are certain books and movies that you can read or watch over and over. Eating at Sotto is a similar experience: familiar, but so profound and satisfying that there is no reason to ever stop. Unlike other restaurants, where the techniques are often elaborate and unfamiliar, the magic at Sotto happens right in front of you, using ordinary elements and methods. When you taste the results, though, you realize that some mysterious transmutation has taken place. Penne with rapini and sausage comes in a buttery, lightly starchy broth with a kick of spice that you could go on eating forever. From the texture of the chicken liver mousse to the tart cherry sauce on the panna cotta, most of the food has some added element of soulfulness.

118 E. Sixth St., downtown, (513) 977-6886, sottocincinnati.com. Dinner seven days. V, MC, DS, AMEX. $$

VIA VITE

Via Vite serves up crowd-pleasing entrées, including the Pietoso family Bolognese, over penne, right on Fountain Square. (Add in a golf-ball-sized veal meatball heavy with lemon zest, and it’s an over-the-top comforting main dish.) The same applies to the risotto, where a few small touches add sophistication. Carnaroli rice results in a glossier, starchier dish. A puree of asparagus turns the risotto an eye-popping green, and the poached lobster garnish creates a nice back-and-forth between vegetal and briny flavors. Braised lamb shank over polenta is comforting workhorse, and the flavorful Faroe Island salmon with roasted carrot puree, caramelized Brussel sprouts and truffled brown butter balsamic vinaigrette.

520 Vine St., downtown, (513) 721-8483, viaviterestaurant.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

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Kiki started as a pop-up at Northside Yacht Club, then leapt into brick-andmortar life in College Hill. Your best bet here is to share plates, or simply order too much, starting with the shishito buono, a piled-high plate of roasted shishito peppers tossed in shaved parmesan and bagna cauda, a warm, rich blend of garlic and anchovies. Add the karaage fried chicken, with the Jordy mayo and the pepe meshi, confit chicken on spaghetti and rice that somehow works. And, yes, the ramen, too. The shio features pork belly and tea-marinated soft-boiled egg, but the kimchi subs in tofu and its namesake cabbage for the meat.

5932 Hamilton Ave., College Hill, (513) 5410381, kikicincinnati.com. Lunch Sun and dinner Wed–Sat. MCC. $

KYOTO

Owner Jason Shi seems to know everybody’s name as he chats up diners, guiding them through the extensive sushi and sashimi menu. Five young sushi chefs, all part of Shi’s family, work at light speed behind the bar, a choreography backlit by rows of gleaming liquor bottles. Dinner proceeds with glorious chaos as a feisty Carla Tortelli–like server delivers one dish after another—slivers of giant clam on ice in a super-sized martini glass, a volcanic tower of chopped fatty tuna hidden inside overlapping layers of thin avocado slices, smoky grilled New Zealand mussels drizzled with spicy mayo, and delicate slices of a samurai roll—all between shots of chilled sake.

12082 Montgomery Rd., Symmes Twp., (513) 583-8897, kyotosushibar.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

ZUNDO RAMEN & DONBURI

A stark contrast to Styrofoam cup soup, chef Han Lin’s ramens are a deep and exciting branch of cuisine, capable of subtlety, variation, and depth. The simplicity of the dish’s name hides a world of complexity. Zundo uses the traditional Japanese building blocks of flavor—soy sauce, miso, sake, mirin—to create something freewheeling and time-tested. Bowls of ramen come with a marinated soft-boiled egg half, roast pork, green onion, and a healthy serving of noodles. Each has a distinct identity, like the milky richness of the tonkotsu, the rich and buttery miso, or the light and faintly sweet shoyu ramen. A transformative add-in is the mayu, or black garlic oil. Dripped on top of one of the subtler broths, it adds a deep, mushroom-y richness, with the hint of burned flavor that makes barbecue so good.

220 W. 12th St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 9750706, zundootr.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$

Come for the jo gi mae un tang—a bowl of sizzling, happy hellbroth pungent with red pepper, garlic, and ginger, crowded with nuggets of fish, tofu, and vegetables. Come for the restorative power of sam gae tang, a chicken soup for the Seoul—a whole Cornish hen submerged in its own juices and plumped with sticky rice and ginseng, dried red dates, and pine nuts. Revered for their medicinal properties, both dinner-sized soups will leave your eyes glistening and your brow beaded with sweat. They’re a detox for your overindulgence, rejuvenation for when you’re feeling under the weather. Expect crowds on weekends. Expect too, that dozens of them have come for dolsot bibimbap, the hot stone pots filled with layers of rice, vegetables, meat or tofu, egg, and chili paste. Characterized by its electric color and addictive flavors, Riverside Korean’s version is a captivating bowl of heaven.

512 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 291-1484, riversidekoreanrestaurant.com. Lunch Tues–Fri, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

MEDITERRANEAN

ANDY’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE

In this lively joint with a burnished summer lodge interior of wood and stone, even the food is unrestrained: rough-cut chunks of charbroiled beef tenderloin, big slices of onion and green pepper turned sweet and wet in the heat, skewers of marinated and charbroiled chicken perched on rice too generous for its plate. Co-owner Andy Hajjar mans his station at the end of the bar, smoking a hookah pipe that fills the air with the sweet smell of flavored tobacco, while the friendly but hurried staff hustles through.

906 Nassau St., Walnut Hills, (513) 281-9791, andyskabob.com. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days. MCC. $$

CAFÉ MEDITERRANEAN

Chef-driven Middle Eastern cuisine leans heavily on Turkish tradition here. The baba ghanoush uses seared eggplant, which adds a pleasant smokiness to the final product. Börek is described as a “Turkish Egg Roll,” wrapping feta and fresh and dried herbs into phyllo dough, and frying it lightly to brittle flakiness. The pastry arrives atop a vivid cherry tomato marmalade, which adds a welcome dimension of barely sweet fruitiness. While there is a smooth, simple hummus on the menu, you should go for the classic sucuklu hummus, which

is spiked with sujuk, a common beef sausage popular all over the Middle East.

3520 Erie Ave., East Hyde Park, (513) 871-8714, mediterranean-cafe.com. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days. MCC. $$

Top 10

PHOENICIAN TAVERNA

No matter how much restraint you go in with, meals at Phoenician Taverna quickly become feasts. There is just too much that’s good, and everything is meant to be shared. With fresh pita bread continuously arriving from the ovens, and a table of quickly multiplying meze (hummus, falafel, muhammara), there is a warmth and depth to the cooking that envelops you. With such traditional cuisine, you may think there isn’t much left to discover beyond simply executed classics prepared according to time-tested methods. But there are always new discoveries as the flavors mingle from plate to plate: the tabbouleh with the hummus, mixed with a touch of harissa, or the smoky baba ghanoush spooned onto falafel. Phoenician Taverna keeps taking these classics a little further.

7944 Mason Montgomery Rd., Mason, (513) 770-0027, phoeniciantaverna.com. Lunch Tues–Fri, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$

SANTORINI

Steak, eggs, and home fries. Jumbo haddock sandwich with Greek fries. Chocolate chip hot cakes with bacon. Notice something wrong with this menu? Chicken Philly cheese steak sandwich with Olympic onion rings. Yep, it’s obvious: What’s wrong with this menu is that there’s nothing wrong with this menu. Greek feta cheese omelette with a side of ham. It’s been owned by the same family for more than 30 years. Santorini has diner standards, like cheeseburgers, chili five ways, and breakfast anytime, but they also make some Greek pastries in house, like spanakopita and baklava.

3414 Harrison Ave., Cheviot, (513) 662-8080. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Mon–Sat, breakfast and lunch Sun. Cash. $

SEBASTIAN’S

When the wind is just right, you can smell the meat roasting from a mile away. Watch owner Alex Vassiliou tend to the rotating wheels of beef and lamb, and you understand how Greek food has escaped the American tendency to appropriate foreign cuisines. Sebastian’s specializes in gyros, shaved off the stick, wrapped in thick griddle pita with onions and tomatoes, and served with cool tzatziki sauce. Alex’s wife and daughter run the counter with efficient speed, and whether you’re having a crisp Greek salad with house-made dressing, triangles of spanikopita, or simply the best walnut and honey baklava this side of the Atlantic (often made by the Mrs.), they never miss a beat, turning more covers in their tiny restaurant on one Saturday afternoon than some restaurants do in an entire weekend.

5209 Glenway Ave., Price Hill, (513) 471-2100, sebastiansgyros.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. Cash. $

SULTAN’S MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE

The meze, a parade of small plates and appetizers—the refreshing yogurt dish with cucumber, mint, and garlic known as cacik, and its thicker cousin haydari, with chopped walnuts, dill, and garlic—is rounded out with flaky cheese or spinach boureks, falafels, soups, salads, and more, while baked casseroles or stuffed cabbage and eggplant dishes (dubbed “Ottoman specials”) augment the heavy focus on kebabs: chunks of lamb and beef on a vertical spit for the popular Doner kebab (a.k.a. Turkish gyro), peppery ground lamb for the Adana kebab, or cubed and marinated for the Shish kebab.

7305 Tyler’s Corner Dr., West Chester, (513) 847-1535, sultanscincinnati.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

MEXICAN EL VALLE VERDE

Guests with dietary issues, high anxiety, and no Spanish

may take a pass, but for hardy souls, this taqueria delivers a memorable evening. Seafood dishes are the star here— ceviche tostadas, crisp corn tortillas piled high with pico de gallo, avocado, and lime-tastic bits of white fish, squid, and crab; the oversized goblet of cocktel campechano, with ample poached shrimp crammed into a Clamato-heavy gazpacho; and simmering sopa de marisco came with langoustines, mussels, crab legs, and an entire fish—enough to feed three.

6717 Vine St., Carthage, (513) 821-5400, valle-verde3.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. $

HABAÑERO

It’s easy to find a cheap burrito place around a college campus, but you’d be hard-pressed to find one as consistently good as Habañero, with its flavors of Latin America and the Caribbean wrapped up in enormous packages.

Fried tilapia, apricot-glazed chicken breast, hand-rubbed spiced flank steak, shredded pork tenderloin, or cinnamon-roasted squash are just some of the ingredients for Habañero’s signature burritos. All salsas are house-made, from the smoky tomato chipotle to the sweet-sounding mango jalapeño, which is hot enough to spark spontaneous combustion.

358 Ludlow Ave., Clifton, (513) 961-6800, habanerolatin.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DC, DS. $

MAZUNTE

Mazunte runs a culinary full court press, switching up specials to keep both regulars and staff engaged. Pork tamales arrive swaddled in a banana leaf, the shredded pork filling steeped in a sauce fiery with guajillo and ancho chilies yet foiled by the calming sweetness of raisins. The fried fish tacos are finished with a citrusy red and white cabbage slaw that complements the accompanying mango-habañero salsa. With this level of authentic yet fast-paced execution, a slightly greasy pozole can be easily forgiven. Don’t miss the Mexican Coke, the margaritas, or the non-alcoholic horchata.

5207 Madison Rd., Madisonville, (513) 785-0000, mazuntetacos.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $

MESA LOCA

Sitting on a corner of Hyde Park Square, it’s easy to see that Mesa Loca has an absolute dream of a location. The pandemic forced a few changes to the seafood-centric menu, but those dishes still on the menu indicate what Mesa Loca could be. The tuna ceviche is nicely balanced: tart, with a little spicy creaminess, and a good crispy tostada. The Baja snapper goes well with a bright pile of grated radish and the mango habañero salsa, one of the highlights of the meal. With minced chunks of mango and a hint of fruity habañero heat, it is a prime example of how you can elevate Mexican food and make it worthy of a higher-thanordinary price. One of Mesa Loca’s appealing qualities is its dramatic flair: The yucca fries come stacked on the plate like a late-stages game of Jenga, and their sour-and-spicy rub is quite delicious and striking against the bright starchy white of the fries.

2645 Erie Ave., Hyde Park, (513) 321-6372, mesalocahydepark.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

NADA

The brains behind Boca deliver authentic, contemporary, high-quality Mexican fare downtown. You’ll find a concise menu, including tacos, salads and sides, large plates, and desserts. The Pork Al Pastor tacos, zesty with salsa verde and sweet with grilled pineapple, are definite crowdpleasers. If you’re biased against brussels sprouts, Nada just might convert you. Their crispy brussels, served with chipotle honey and candied ancho pepitas, are a deliciously intriguing starter.

600 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 721-6232, eatdrinknada.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$

TAQUERIA CRUZ

The menu at this four-table mom-and-pop welcomes you to “a little piece of Mexico.” The huaraches (spelled guarachis here), are flat troughs of thick, handmade fried masa dough the approximate shape and size of a shoeprint, mounded with beans and slivers of grilled beef or chili-red nubs of

sausage, shredded lettuce, a crumble of queso fresco, and drizzle of cultured cream. Should you have an adventurous side, you can have your huarache topped with slippery tongue, goat meat, shredded chicken, or pork. There are stews, carne asada plates, and sopes—saucers of fried masa much like huaraches, only smaller.

518 Pike St., Covington, (859) 431-3859. Lunch and dinner seven days. Cash. $

TAQUERIA MERCADO

On a Saturday night, Taqueria Mercado is a lively fiesta, with seemingly half of the local Hispanic community guzzling margaritas and cervezas, or carrying out sacks of burritos and carnitas tacos—pork tenderized by a long simmer, its edges frizzled and crispy. The Mercado’s strip mall interior, splashed with a large, colorful mural, is equally energetic: the bustling semi-open kitchen; a busy counter that handles a constant stream of take-out orders; a clamorous, convivial chatter in Spanish and English. Try camarones a la plancha, 12 chubby grilled shrimp tangled with grilled onions (be sure to specify if you like your onions well done). The starchiness of the rice absorbs the caramelized onion juice, offset by the crunch of lettuce, buttery slices of avocado, and the cool-hot pico de gallo. A shrimp quesadilla paired with one of their cheap and potent margaritas is worth the drive alone.

6507 Dixie Hwy., Fairfield, (513) 942-4943; 100 E. Eighth St., downtown, (513) 381-0678, tmercadocincy. com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $

SEAFOOD

MCCORMICK & SCHMICK’S

The daily rotation here reads like a fisherman’s wish list: fresh lobsters from the coast of Maine, ahi tuna from Hawaii, clams from New England. But high-quality ingredients are only half the equation; preparation is the other. Herbbroth sea bass, served with roasted fingerling potatoes, makes the taste buds dance. The spacious digs and attentive waitstaff bring a touch of class to Fountain Square, and make it a sophisticated destination. It’s likely to remain a favorite. After all, it’s right in the middle of things. 21 E. Fifth St., downtown, (513) 721-9339, mccormickandschmicks.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DC, DS. $$

PELICAN’S REEF

When Mapi De Veyra and Kam Siu, the duo behind DOPE! and Decibel Korean Fried Chicken, took over Pelican’s Reef in late 2021, they weren’t looking to make too many changes. Varieties of fresh fish still rotate daily across the 10-by-2-foot chalkboard: mahi-mahi from the Gulf, Lake Erie walleye, wild Alaskan salmon, wreckfish from South Carolina, rainbow trout, and wild striped bass make up the majority of the featured dishes. The regular offerings are no slouch either: a Cajun grouper sandwich with chipotle tartar sauce, chubby fish tacos, perfectly fried piping hot oysters tucked into a buttered and toasted po’ boy bun with housemade slaw, and tart-sweet key lime pie. And of course, the damn good New England style chowder.

7261 Beechmont Ave., Anderson Twp., (513) 232-2526, the pelicansreef.com. Lunch Tues-Sat, dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

ROSEWOOD SUSHI, THAI & SEAFOOD

Chanaka De Lanerolle sold Mt. Adams Fish House back in 2011, and Rosewood Sushi, Thai & Seafood is its reincarnation—and reinvention. Most of the menu tends toward fairly conservative takes on classics, like well-seasoned crab cakes and thick, creamy chowder full of seafood. The handful of ethnic experiments on the menu are among its most vibrant offerings, including a Mediterranean fish stew that takes inspiration from the North African coast. Tender, fluffy couscous soaks up a fier y but sweet tomato sauce that showcases chiles and peppercorns, golden raisins, and lovely firm cashews, and the stew itself is packed with mussels, shrimp, and chunks of fish.

3036 Madison Rd., Oakley, (513) 631-3474, oakleyfishhouse.com. Lunch Fri–Sun, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$$

THE GREAT CINCIN BAKE-

Professional and amateur bakers compete throughout the week, and you re invited to join us as we announce the winners in a sweet and savory celebration of baked goodness!

Wednesday, October 18th 6-9 pm

MadTree Brewing 3301 Madison Rd.

CUPCAKES COOKIES CAKES PIES & MORE!

Sponsored By

Presenting Sponsor

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A Portion of the Proceeds Benefit

a laptop. Even steaks billed as “slightly smaller” weigh in at 8 to 10 ounces.

441 Vine St., downtown, (513) 621-3111, mortons.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$

THE PRECINCT

STEAKS

CARLO & JOHNNY

The stars of the menu are 12 delectable steaks that could sway the vegi-curious to recommit. Not sure which to choose? If you prefer brawny flavor over buttery texture, go for one of the three bone-in rib cuts. Or if it’s that meltin-your-mouth experience that raises your serotonin levels, C&J features several tenderloin cuts, including the premium six-ounce Wagyu filet. There are the usual suspects of raw bar, seafood, pork chops, et al, if you’re interested in non-beef alternatives.

9769 Montgomery Rd., Montgomery, (513) 936-8600, jeffruby.com/carlo-johnny. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$$

Top 10 LOSANTI

A bit more upscale than its sister restaurant, Crown Republic Gastropub, Losanti is also more conservative in its offerings. Service is friendly and informal, and though the meal feels like a special occasion, prices and atmosphere are right for, say, a date, rather than a wedding anniversary. The filet mignon, rib eye, and New York strip are cut to order for each table (there are a few available weights for each). The steaks themselves are totally irreproachable, perfectly seasoned, cooked to precisely the right point. Losanti even makes the steakhouse sides a little special. Sweet and smoky caramelized onions are folded into the mashed potatoes, a nice dusting of truffles wakes up the mac and cheese, and the sweet corn—yes, totally out of season, but still good—is at least freshly cut off the cob and recalls elote with lime and chile.

1401 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 246-4213, losantiotr.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$$

JAG’S STEAK AND SEAFOOD

Chef Michelle Brown’s food is deeply flavored, if occasionally a bit busy, her steaks of the buttery-mild variety, with not too much salty char crust. All five cuts are served with veal demi-glace and fried onion straws. According to my steak-centric dining partner, his cowboy ribeye is “too tender and uniform” (as if that’s a crime). “I like to wrestle with the bone,” he adds, though that’s a scenario that, thankfully, doesn’t get played out in this subdued dining room. 5980 West Chester Rd., West Chester, (513) 860-5353, jags.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DC. $$$

JEFF RUBY’S

Filled most nights with local scenesters and power brokers (and those who think they are), everything in this urban steakhouse is generous—from the portions to the expert service. White-jacketed waiters with floor-length aprons deliver two-fisted martinis and mounds of greens dressed in thin vinaigrettes or thick, creamy emulsions. An occasional salmon or sea bass appears, and there’s a small but decent assortment of land fare. But most customers, even the willowy model types, inhale slabs of beef (dry aged USDA prime) like they’re dining in a crack house for carnivores. The best of these is Jeff Ruby’s Cowboy, 22 ounces of 70-day dry-aged bone-in rib eye. This is steak tailor-made for movers and shakers.

505 Vine St., downtown, (513) 784-1200, jeffruby.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DC. $$$$

MORTON’S

THE STEAKHOUSE

No one has replicated the concept of an expensive boys’ club better than Morton’s. Amid the dark polished woods and white linen, the Riedel stemware and stupendous flower arrangements, assorted suits grapple with double cut filet mignons, 24 ounces of porterhouse, pink shiny slabs of prime rib, overflowing plates of salty Lyonnaise potatoes, or mammoth iceberg wedges frosted with thick blue cheese dressing. Jumbo is Morton’s decree: Oversized martini and wine glasses, ethereal towering lemon soufflés, roomy chairs, and tables large enough for a plate and

Top 10

Part of the appeal of the Ruby restaurants is their ability to deliver deep, comfort-food satisfaction. And the steaks. The meat is tender with a rich mineral flavor, and the signature seasoning provided a nice crunch, not to mention blazing heat. The supporting cast is strong— the basket of warm Tribeca Oven bread with a mushroom truffle butter, the addictive baked macaroni and cheese, the creamy garlic mashed potatoes, the crisp-tender asparagus with roasted garlic and lemon vinaigrette—and dinner ends on a sweet note with a piece of Ruby family recipe cheesecake. Neither cloyingly sweet nor overwhelmingly creamy, it’s a lovely slice of restraint.

311 Delta Ave., Columbia-Tusculum, (513) 321-5454, jeffruby.com/precinct. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$$

TONY’S

He is a captivating presence, Tony Ricci. Best known for his 30 years in fine dining—including the Jeff Ruby empire while managing the venerable Precinct—Ricci has built a life in the hospitality industry. Much of Tony’s menu is right out of a steakhouse playbook: jumbo shrimp and king crab legs from the raw bar; Caprese, Greek, and Caesar salads; sides of creamed spinach, mac-and-cheese, asparagus, and sautéed mushrooms; toppings of roasted garlic or Gorgonzola butters to accompany your center cut of filet mignon. There are boutique touches, though, that make it stand out—a garlic herb aioli with the calamari, steak tartare torch-kissed and topped with a poached egg, a superb rack of lamb rubbed with aromatic sumac and served with mint pesto.

12110 Montgomery Rd., Symmes Township, (513) 6778669, tonysofcincinnati.com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$$$

THAI

GREEN PAPAYA

Inside this simple dining room, replete with soothing browns and greens and handsome, dark wood furniture, it takes time to sort through the many curries and chef’s specialties, not to mention the wide variety of sushi on the something-for-everyone menu. Have the staff—friendly, attentive, and knowledgeable—help you. When the food arrives, you’ll need only a deep inhale to know you made the right choice. The Green Papaya sushi rolls are as delicious as they look, with a manic swirl of spicy mayo and bits of crabstick and crispy tempura batter scattered atop the spicy tuna, mango, cream cheese, and shrimp tempura sushi—all rolled in a vivid green soybean wrap.

2942 Wasson Rd., Oakley, (513) 731-0107, greenpapayacincinnati.com. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days. MCC. $$

SUKHOTHAI

Nestled in the nearly hidden Market Place Lane, this tiny restaurant isn’t exactly slick. A chalkboard lists the day’s specials, usually spicy dishes worthy of an adventurous diner. But if it’s noodle dishes and curries you’re after, Sukhothai’s pad kee mao—wide rice noodles stir-fried with basil—is the best around. Served slightly charred, the fresh and dried chilies provide enough heat to momentarily suspend your breath. Pad Thai has the right amount of crunch from peanuts, slivers of green onion, and mung sprouts to contrast with the slippery glass noodles, and a few squeezes of fresh lime juice give it a splendid tartness. The crispy tamarind duck is one of the best house specials, the meat almost spreadably soft under the papery skin and perfectly complemented by the sweet-tart bite of tamarind.

8102 Market Place Lane, Montgomery, (513) 794-0057, sukhothaicincin.com. Lunch Tues–Fri, dinner Tues–Sat. DS, MC, V. $

TEAK THAI

Owner Chanaka De Lanerolle has said that he decided to bring back Teak’s take on Thai food because of the

renewed vibrancy in Over-the-Rhine, which he compared to the energy he felt in Mt. Adams during his time there. But for all of the hype around the restaurant’s re-emergence on the scene, it’s probably best to consider it a reimagining rather than a reopening. While long-time favorites show up on the menu, prepared by many of the same kitchen staff members from Mt. Adams, some adaptations have been made to better meet expectations of modern diners. Letting go of preconceived notions about Teak will serve you well. With a two-sided, standalone sushi menu and a wide variety of main plates ranging from small bites to signature dishes, you have plenty of room to craft your own dining experience.

1200 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 421-8325, teakotr. com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$

THAI NAMTIP

Classic Thai comfort food on the west side from chef/owner Tussanee Leach, who grew up with galangal on her tongue and sriracha sauce in her veins. Her curries reign: pale yellow sweetened with coconut milk and poured over tender chicken breast and chunks of boiled pineapple; red curry the color of new brick, tasting of earth at first bite, then the sharply verdant Thai basil leaves, followed by a distant heat. Tom Kha Gai soup defines the complex interplay of flavors in Thai food: astringent lemongrass gives way to pepper, then Makrut lime, shot through with the gingery galangal, and coconut. Even the simple skewers of chicken satay with Thai peanut sauce are dulcified by honey and dirtied up by a smoky grill.

5461 North Bend Rd., Monfort Heights, (513) 481-3360, thainamtip.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MC, V. $

WILD GINGER

Wild Ginger Asian Bistro’s ability to satisfy a deep desire for Vietnamese and Thai fusion cuisine is evidenced by their signature Hee Ma roll—a fortress of seaweedwrapped rolls filled with shrimp tempura, asparagus, avocado, and topped with red tuna, pulled crab stick, tempura flakes, a bit of masago, scallions, and of course, spicy mayo. It’s tasty, even though the sweet fried floodwall of tempura and spicy mayo overpowered the tuna completely. The spicy pad char entrée was a solid seven out of 10: broccoli, carrots, cabbage, succulent red bell peppers, green beans, and beef, accented with basil and lime leaves in a peppercorn-and-chili brown sauce.

3655 Edwards Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 533-9500, wildgingercincy.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

VIETNAMESE

PHO LANG THANG

Owners Duy and Bao Nguyen and David Le have created a greatest hits playlist of Vietnamese cuisine: elegant, brothy pho made from poultry, beef, or vegan stocks poured over rice noodles and adrift with slices of onions, meats, or vegetables (the vegan pho chay is by far the most flavorful); fresh julienned vegetables, crunchy sprouts, and herbs served over vermicelli rice noodles; and bánh mì. Be sure to end with a cup of Vietnamese coffee, a devilish jolt of dark roast and sweetened condensed milk that should make canned energy drinks obsolete.

1828 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 376-9177, pholangthang.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS, DC. $

CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, (ISSN 0746-8 210), September 2023, Volume 56, Number 12. Published monthly ($19.95 for 12 issues annually) at 1818 Race St., Ste. 301, Cincinnati, OH 45202. (513) 421-4300. Copyright © 2023 by Cincinnati Magazine LLC, a subsidiary of Hour Media Group, 5750 New King Dr., Ste. 100, Troy, MI 48098. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or reprinted without permission. Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, and artwork should be accompanied by SASE for return. The magazine cannot be held responsible for loss. For subscription orders, address changes or renewals, write to CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, 1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071, or call 1-866-660-6247. Periodicals postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio, and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Please send forms 3579 to CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, 1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071. If the Postal Service alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year.

World Refugee Day Cup

Photographs by X.Wynn Films

Fairy Tale

THE FAIRIES FIRST arrived in Newport in the mid-2010s, packing up their acorn-cap chairs and mushroom tables in the dead of night. They took up residence on sidewalks and concrete steps, marked not by fairy dust or mystical circles, but by tiny, inches-tall doors. Today, it’s hard to walk more than a few yards in Newport’s East Row district without spotting one. Some are simple: tiny, arched doorways painted and affixed to curbs. Others are elaborate creations: entire fairy compounds built into tree trunks, complete with tiny streetscapes and sprawling moss yards of their own. And then there are the particularly clever doors, like the one at Jerry’s Jug House that leads into Fairy’s Jug House, which is presumably the preeminent (and only) watering hole in town catering to the tiniest Newport residents. Time, weather, and the scourge of door thieves have displaced a few homes. But the community has come out in support of its fairy neighbors, descending upon East Row for “fairy door hunts.” Word to the wise if you’re planning to partake: Keep your eyes low, walk slowly, and don’t forget to pack your imagination.

—LAUREN FISHER

Study food science with leaders in the field

Miami University offers a Food Systems and Food Studies co-major to undergraduates seeking to explore the complex path food follows from farm to fork and beyond. With courses like IES 186: Sustainable Farming and Food, students can learn actively while working alongside renowned faculty in Miami’s Institute for Food.