

Behind Sun Damage
In honor of Skin Cancer Awareness Month and Melanoma Awareness Month, Dr. Mona Foad, founder and board-certified dermatologist at Mona Dermatology, shares why preventing sun damage should be a top priority for you and your family.



How UV Damage Affects Our Skin
UV damage from the sun affects our skin in many different ways. There are three types of UV Rays: UVC, UVB and UVA. UVC is typically filtered out by the ozone, so we primarily focus on protecting our skin from UVA and UVB rays. UVA, or aging rays, go deeper into the skin and can cause more aging and skin cancer risk due to the deeper damage they can cause. Specifically, these rays can contribute to the breakdown of collagen and elastin in our skin. These key proteins decrease naturally as we age, but sun exposure can accelerate their breakdown. This leads to signs of aging such as wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and sagging. In addition, they cause free radical damage, which increases our risk of developing skin cancers. UVB, or burning rays, are responsible for your sunburn and causing your skin to develop a tan. Over time, multiple sunburns and tans lead to the formation of brown spots and precancerous lesions. If you think about it, a tan is simply your skin’s way of protecting itself from further damage from the sun's rays and is not actually a good thing.
Preventing Sun Damage
The best way to protect against sun damage is by wearing sunscreen. Using a broad spectrum sunscreen can protect you from both UVA and UVB rays. This protection can decrease your risk of developing a sunburn in the short term, and also reduce the risk for premature aging and skin cancers in the long term. I always look for a sunscreen with zinc oxide, because this physical sunblock is a great way to protect against UVA and UVB rays. Zinc oxide is also good for people with sensitive skin who are concerned about having a reaction to sunscreen. Finally, always look for a reef safe sunscreen, and avoid

sunscreens with oxybenzone. If you want to boost your protection against environmental damage, antioxidants are also worth considering. These topical skincare products protect against free radical damage in the environment which can harm cells, causing premature aging. Good antioxidants can also help protect your skin against pollution, which also can cause free radical damange. Other options for added protection include wearing a broad-brimmed hat or UPF clothing and avoiding the sun at peak hours, from 10 am to 2 pm.
Treating Sun Damage
First and foremost, getting an annual complete skin exam from a dermatologist is the easiest and best way to prevent skin cancers from developing. When caught early, the cure-rate for skin cancers is 99%! In this 15-minute visit, your dermatologist will look at your skin from head to toe and ensure you do not have any suspicious looking spots that may need to be treated.
If you have visible sun damage (like brown spots) or a history of skin cancers and pre-cancers, there are several options to treat your existing damage. Our Kenwood-based office offers several laser and light treatments that use focused laser or light

energy to target specific layers of your skin and treat the damage there. This can be beneficial both for the cosmetic appearance of sun damage and also preventing the formation of more serious skin cancers.
Chemical peels are also a great choice for addressing existing sun damage. During a chemical peel, a provider applies a speciallyformulated solution that gently exfoliates the top layer of skin. This helps encourage the turnover of new, healthy skin cells in the treated area. Lastly, photodynamic therapy, or PDT, is another in-office option for treating sun damage. Many patients with Actinic Keratoses (also known as pre-cancers) find this in-office procedure preferable to at-home topical creams. A few treatment sessions will typically reduce or clear a large area of precancers.
Get Scheduled
Mona Dermatology is your partner in healthy, beautiful skin! From finding the perfect sunscreen that you’re excited to wear, to annual skin exams and cosmetic treatments for sun damage, we offer everything you need to care for your skin at our Kenwood-based office. You can schedule a visit online at monadermatology.com or by calling 513.984.4800.





























































ASIAN EATS!
The Queen City is packed with delicious cuisines from all over Asia, so let’s explore the restaurants, dishes, drinks, and sweets that satisfy our hunger.

WORTHY OF LASTING LOVE P. 48
The mother/daughter team of writer Suzy Hopkins and artist Hallie Bateman could have published graphic novels without each other’s help, but why would they want to?
BY KELLY BLEWETT
SOY TO THE WORLD P. 52
After meeting in an internment camp during WWII, two Japanese American families cooked up a plan to make Cincinnati the Midwest’s tofu capital.
BY LAURIE PIKE

10 / CONTRIBUTORS
10 / LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
FRONTLINES
17 / DISPATCH
Robert McGrath takes the reins of the CSO


18 / SPEAK EASY
Gene Kritsky knows cicadas
18 / POP LIFE
Neil deGrasse Tyson on life in the universe
20 / FIELD GUIDE
Stationery and office supplies
22 / HIGH PROFILE
Miranda McGee, Cincinnati’s No. 1 fan
24 / ON THE MARKET
The Indian Hill of NKY
26 / STYLE COUNSEL
Emmanuel De Roquette’s smart streetwear
28 / DR. KNOW
Your QC questions answered
COLUMNS
30 / WELCOME TO MIDDLEHOOD
The health and happiness of swimming BY JUDI
KETTELER
112 / OBSCURA
CVG’s secret library BY CLAIRE LEFTON
DINE
98 / DINING OUT
Italian at Carmelo’s, Covington
100 / HOT PLATE
Flamingo Drive Bar and Lounge, Milford
100 / TABLESIDE
Local pastry chef and baking star Haley Stewart
102 / PANTRY
NIL Bottle Shop’s nonalcoholic drinks, Symmes Township
104 / HEAD TO HEAD
Area fudge shops
105 / DINING GUIDE
Greater Cincinnati restaurants: A selective list
ON THE COVER photograph by ANDREW DOENCH
food styling by BRITTANY DEXTER, STEFANIE HADIWIDJAJA
Extra servings of our outstanding dining coverage.
Decoding our civic DNA, from history to politics to personalities.
Tracking what’s new in local real estate, artisans, and storefronts.
Coverage of the Reds, FC Cincinnati, and the Bengals’ draft
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Torch of Excellence Nursing Awards
Find out who received this year’s honors and how their leadership is impacting the field of nursing.


Parks & Recreation
Looking for your next road trip getaway? Try one of the more than 50 national, state, and local parks in Ohio, Kentucky, and Indiana showcased in this special section.
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Anderson Area Chamber of Commerce Magazine and Membership Directory
Bonus for subscribers in select zip codes only Learn more about Greater Anderson with this look at the region’s amenities. Plus, the business directory helps you find what you need.
Correction
In April’s Top Dentists listings, the phone numbers for Andrew Bartish and Claire Tonnis of Velle Dental were incorrect. The correct number is (513) 661-5800. We regret the error.




I
I EXPERIENCED THREE OF MY FOUR STAGES OF DINING OUT IN A RECENT WEEK. My wife and I ate at a Chinese restaurant happily listening to servers and customers chat in a language we didn’t know. We had a nice steak dinner on my son’s birthday. And I visited a neighborhood diner where I order the same thing every time.
My unsophisticated spectrum of dining out has four major buckets: super familiar regular stops, slightly unfamiliar menu and/or atmosphere, special occasion push-my-comfort-zone spots, and completely unfamiliar or challenging places. Each has its joys and benefits; there’s no downside to any of them, unless you get a bad meal or poor service.

For argument’s sake, let’s assume you have a fantastic experience every time you visit these four kinds of restaurants. What’s the right mix of categories? Which is your favorite? Why am I such a picky eater?
While there are plenty of restaurants, bars, and food stalls that nail each category, we all know modern life is lived mostly in the gray areas. Can a regular stop also be slightly unfamiliar if, say, I order something at Skyline I’ve never tried? Yes. Can a special occasion place be challenging if I’m embarrassed to ask the server to explain an unknown ingredient? Sure. Not every restaurant fits neatly in one of the four buckets. Most reside in the overlaps.
The places highlighted in “Asian Eats!” (page 34) fill all of my categories as well as the crevices in between. They remind me how we each experience the same restaurant in different ways. When the magazine’s office moved near Findlay Market, I’d never tried Pho Lang Thang; it quickly became a regular stop. I don’t know much about sushi and so I’m not a big fan; you might eat sushi regularly. But just because an experience is unfamiliar and challenging, I know it’s still worth exploring. Exploring is the right word, I think, when discussing Cincinnati’s culinary scene and this month’s Asian food highlights. If you eat out 75 percent of the time at regular spots, shift some of those visits to slightly unfamiliar or special occasion restaurants. Open your mind, then open your mouth.
JOHN FOX EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
CONTRIBUTORS

TIFFANY LUCKEY
Tiffany Luckey, owner and chief creative strategist at Ten21 Agency and former Cincinnati Magazine intern, has rediscovered her writing groove. “I get to take on fun projects and tell fun stories about the city,” she says. Writing in this month’s cover feature, “Asian Eats!” (page 34), Luckey rounds up some of the area’s best Chinese restaurants. Her unexpected favorite? Covington’s KungFood AmerAsia, a hidden gem with “good vibes, beer selection, and great food!”

As Associate Professor of English at Indiana University East, Kelly Blewett finds herself drawn to distinct literary collaborations. “This one seemed really unique,” she says of the graphic novels produced by mother-daughter duo Suzy Hopkins and Hallie Bateman (page 48), adding that she can relate to their experiences with love and loss. “I cried when I read their first book, and I bought it for a friend for her birthday,” she says.

A lifelong artist who once covered the walls in crayon during childhood, Cincinnati Magazine Assistant Art Director Jessica Dunham loves everything bold and colorful. This whimsy is translated into her own illustrations—sparkles and stars are snuck into each design, from a recent portrait of Bootsy Collins to the layout of “Worthy of Lasting Love” (page 48). Dunham finds herself inspired by the objects she encounters in her everyday life.























































































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Preparing for Mother’s Day as a Motherless Daughter
"Mother’s Day comes every year, and yet it often catches me off guard. I think I’m prepared, but when the day arrives, I realize I am not. I am a grown woman, yet deep inside, I am still that 15-year-old girl who lost her mother to breast cancer. That part of me aches for a mother’s love, for nurturing, for comfort. You never get over mother loss. It is embedded deep within your soul." -Founder
WHAT MAKES US DIFFERENT
• We serve women who suffer all types of mother loss whether it be from emotional abandonment, narcissism, or loss by death.
• Faith-Based
• 501(C)(3)
• Equip and empower volunteers to be successful
• WE have walked in your shoes — ALL current coaches and workshop facilitators have experienced mother loss
Surviving Mother’s Day
with an Emotionally Absent or Narcissistic Mother
For some, Mother’s Day is painful not because of loss through death, but because their mother is physically present yet emotionally unavailable—or even toxic. If you have an emotionally absent or narcissistic mother, this day can bring up complicated emotions like resentment, longing, guilt, or even relief.
When Your Mother Has Passed
If you struggle on this day due to your mother’s passing, you are not alone. Here are some ways to prepare and navigate the emotions that come with Mother’s Day:
1. Write a Letter to Your Mother
2. Celebrate Her Legacy
3. Create a Special Ritual
4. Allow Yourself to Grieve
5. Be Kind to Yourself
6. Talk About It
Here are some ways to Survive Mother’s Day with an Emotionally Absent or Narcissistic Mother:
1. Acknowledge Your Reality
2. Set Boundaries
3. Choose How You Want to Spend the Day
4. Celebrate the Women Who Have Shown Up for You
5. Practice Self-Compassion
6. Find an Outlet
7. Release the Need for Approval
Every year, thousands of individuals return to Ohio communities after incarceration. Without jobs, housing, and support, many struggle to stay on the right path—continuing the cycle of recidivism. At The FourSeven, we provide the critical resources needed to break that cycle and create real transformation for returning citizens and their families.
From Bars to the Kitchen: A Story of Redemption
Meet Frank Deets III, a professional chef who rebuilt his life after incarceration. With the right support, he turned his passion for cooking into a thriving career. Now, he’s proving that second chances work—not just for him, but for the community he serves.
WHY REENTRY MATTERS IN OHIO
95% of incarcerated individuals will return to our communities—how they return affects all of us.
Within three years, 30-40% of Ohio’s returning citizens will be reincarcerated without proper support.
Employment reduces recidivism by up to 50%, yet many employers overlook second-chance candidates.


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Hire Returning Citizens – Tap into a motivated workforce. Support Our Work – Your donation fuels real transformation. Join the Conversation – Advocacy changes lives.


STUDYING CICADAS P. 18
THE CSO
2.0
STATIONERY SUPPLY STORES P. 20 CINCY’S NO. 1 FAN P. 22
New Cincinnati Symphony Orchestra President and CEO Robert McGrath wants the world to know that the Queen City is a symphonic destination.
GARIN PIRNIA
IN JANUARY THE CINCINNATI Symphony Orchestra (CSO) appointed Robert McGrath as its new president and CEO. The 2025–2026 season kicks off in September, including new Music Director Christian M celaru (who replaces Louis Langrée as only the 14th music director in the symphony’s 130-year history).
McGrath has been a part of the CSO since he moved to Cincinnati from St. Louis in August 2011. He’s served as its chief operating officer, vice president, and general manager, and prior to that, held senior positions at the St. Louis Symphony Orchestra, Louisville Orchestra, and Chicago’s Music of the Baroque. However, the Queen City stands out to him.
“It is a community that philanthropically and civically supports the arts at a level that far exceeds most of our peer cities and allows the orchestra and the entire arts scene here to punch above our weight,” he says. The CSO is one of about 17 orchestras nationally with 52 weeks of programming.
In his 13 years at the CSO, McGrath feels that he’s been a leader in contributing to the organization’s culture of innovation. He CONTINUED ON P. 18

created its Digital Content and Innovation Department in the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic, and launched CSO Proof, an experimental concert series that introduces new audiences to the orchestra through nonmusical elements such as dance and art. “These initiatives not only push orchestral boundaries but also foster a culture of creative thinking and innovation,” he says.
McGrath’s musical background started in the suburbs of Houston, where he grew up. “One of my earliest memories is my [father’s] Time Life records of the great composers of the 19th century,” he says.
In high school, he played bassoon in his school’s top-rated marching band, and moved on to earn a performance degree for the instrument at the New England Conservatory of Music in Boston. He soon discovered that he “loved music more than the bassoon,” and channeled his passion into work for orchestras. When he arrived in Cincinnati, he found a city in the middle of rebirth. “I felt like, Wow, this feels like a city that’s going somewhere. I would love to be part of an orchestra that can be part of that journey,” he says.
In his new position, McGrath oversees the annual choral May Festival with input from this year’s musical director, Renée Fleming. He also oversees Music and Event Management, Inc. (MEMI), which is planning the Riverbend 2.0 project in which Coney Island will transform into an outdoor music venue. According to McGrath, the goal is to create a “world-
class experience” for touring artists and performers, one that puts Cincinnati on the table as a competitive location for future music festivals and events. “Our vision is to be the most relevant orchestra in America,” he says. “One of the ways we do that is by reflecting and welcoming the diversity of our community.… We want to impact and be a part of the everyday lives of every single person in Cincinnati.”
To McGrath, the steps are already in motion. Aside from the diverse musical experiences that introduce more people to the orchestra, the CSO collaborates with Cincinnati Public Schools to increase student access, hosts free outdoor block parties and performances, and has become a central component to much of the city’s key cultural moments, from launching Lumenocity (the precursor to BLINK) to playing for Friday Fireworks at Great American Ball Park.
For the new season, he’s looking forward to Stravinsky’s Firebird (April 24 & 25, 2026 )—featuring puppetry designed by South African director and creator Janni Younge—and Peter Boyer’s America’s 250th anniversary 50 states program (March 13–15, 2026), narrated by Martin Sheen. These programs and more should entice out-of-towners to come to Cincinnati to see what the fuss is all about.
“Cincinnati is a destination orchestra,” McGrath says. “I don’t know if a lot of people realize that. Winning the job is really the pinnacle. It’s like signing with a top professional sports team.”

EVENT
IN THE STARS
Acclaimed astrophysicist Neil deGrasse Tyson comes to the Andrew J Brady Music Center on May 6 to share his Search for Life in the Universe lecture, exploring the potential for the existence of extraterrestrials and life beyond Earth. bradymusiccenter.com












CICADA SCIENCE
Following a career spent studying periodical cicadas, Gene Kritsky, Ph.D.—professor emeritus of biology at Mount St. Joseph University and chief science officer for the Center of IT Engagement—created a better way to map brood emergences across the country. Cicada Safari, a free app available across platforms, allows users to document photos and videos of cicada sightings on a live map.
Where did you get the idea of mapping cicadas through an app? Crowdsourcing started in the 1840s. [When] Steve Jobs came up with [smartphones], I thought, there’s some potential here. I mentioned this to our new provost for technology, and he came to me in late 2017 about doing this app. I met with students and we got it ready for the emergence in spring 2019. We got 5,000-plus responses.
What did you learn about cicada behavior by mapping them?
2021 was the big one that was tested. We got 9,000 records of Brood IX, but we got hundreds of records from places where cicadas weren’t supposed to emerge. In the past, researchers like me would go where
we knew [cicadas] were, and we’d drive around the boundary line to see what their extent was. We never thought about looking 500 miles away. Cicada Safari was helping us map cicadas where we never thought of looking for them before.
Why are cicadas emergence patterns changing? When cicadas come out early or late, they often come out four years early or four years late. What would cause this? It’s changing temperatures in the last 25 years because of global warming. We have had four-year accelerations now of Brood II, V, X, XIII, and XIX. Periodical cicadas emerge from the ground when the soil temperature reaches 64 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit. That’s now two and a half weeks earlier than it was a century ago.
What can we expect from this year’s emergence? You’ll see some reasonable numbers in the Madeira area, Kenwood area. Areas like Milford, Batavia, and across the eastern area [of Cincinnati] and parts of northern Kentucky will have reasonably good numbers.
—EMMA BALCOM
READ A LONGER INTERVIEW WITH GENE AT CINCINNATIMAGAZINE. COM



WEIGHT IN PAPER

Whether you’re looking for personalized wedding invitations, an ink refill for your fine fountain pen, or simply a fun new set of sticky notes for your desk, local shops have all your stationery and office supply needs covered.
1. PAPER WINGS
Since MiCA 12/v opened in 2007, its inventory has included art, decor, accessories, and gifts created by independent artists and designers. Twelve years later, sister store Paper Wings opened right next door in response to a demand from customers for more paper goods. In opening the accompanying stationery shop, owners Mike and Carolyn Denininger find themselves encourag-

ing a “lost art” of sorts: The practice of slowing down and writing by hand. Aside from Paper Wings’s selection of paper products, including cards, journals, fine writing utensils, and— like always—original art (all of which is available for free delivery for customers within the I-275
loop), the storefront also hosts small art shows and craft workshops. 1203 Vine St., Over-theRhine, (513) 421-3500, shoppaperwings.com
2. HANDZY

4. THE STICKER SHOP
5. APPOINTMENTS
421 W. Sixth St., Covington, (859) 431-2883, handzyshopstudio.com
3. POEME
Conveniently located near Hyde Park Square, Poeme aims to take away the strain of stationery shopping. Since its establishment 20 years ago, customers have requested customized wedding and party invitations, birth announcements, and other personalized stationery for milestone events, even amid the rise of the digital age and ever-popular e-invites. The process is personal— Poeme doesn’t work with templates, instead taking the time to learn all the small details that customers want in their product, sketching ideas in real time, and working with local artists to craft the perfect final product. In addition to its customized stationery service, Poeme offers a regular selection of cards, stationery sets, gifts, notebooks, and more.
Bestie-owned design studio Handzy offers an adorable supply of everything from clothing and accessories to home decor and assorted candies. A standout from its selection is its quirky collection of journals, stickers, planners, notecards, and other stationery sets—all in vibrant colors and patterns. It started with a dream from Brittney Braemer, who intended to create a business designing and creating stationery sets. After renting a space with Suzy Hinnefeld, the two began designing brands and logos for small businesses and sold their stationery designs through online storefronts and craft fairs. Now, the shop is a destination for bright, fun, and colorful cards and crafts.
3433 Michigan Ave., Hyde Park, (513) 3214999, poeme-online. com
Recently opened in Wyoming, The Sticker Shop’s inventory includes everything from stationery to scrapbooking materials—but stickers are central to the shop’s catalog. Owned by author, blogger, and disability advocate Amy Webb, the shop is an homage to her childhood love for collecting stickers and trading with stickers books, and has since morphed into a one-of-a-kind destination for writing utensils, greeting cards, journals, notebooks, scrapbooks, and unique and vintage stickers of all sorts.
434 A. Springfield Pke., Wyoming, (513) 8543210, thesticker-shop. com
Since 1993, Appointments—on the second floor of downtown’s Carew Tower—has been a staple for fine writing instruments. Its selection nearly two dozen kinds of pens is unmatched, and complemented by knowledgeable staff that can service any and all types. In addition to its utensil selection, Appointments offers various leather goods and stationery, from refillable notebooks and journals to leather bags and wallets to oneof-a-kind notecards and vintage pieces from Rookwood Pottery. 441 Vine St. #20, downtown, (513) 4217430, 411pens.com






























SWEET HOME, CINCINNATI
YOUHANA
GARVER
MIRANDA MCGEE
remembers flying back to Cincinnati the first year she lived here, after spending Thanksgiving in Arizona. She looked out the window of the plane, and something happened.
“I saw the lights of the city, and this piece of my heart that had never been there before went ka-chink,” she says, “and I knew I was home.”
Originally from Melbourne, Australia, McGee first came to the Queen City for a job with Cincinnati Shakespeare Company in 2006. It quickly became her adopted home, a spot she loves so much that she tells people she gave up Australian beaches for the Ohio River.
McGee’s first visit to the U.S. was in 2001 to attend college in Texas on a drama scholarship. She was preparing to move to Chicago when an actor at Cincy Shakes neglected to show up for work on their first day.
“For some reason, I have no idea why, they hired me sight unseen,” she says.
“They called me and said, ‘Can you be here in 24 hours?’ ” After a year with Cincy Shakes, McGee






She may be from the land down under, but Miranda McGee is Cincinnati’s No. 1 fan. —JACLYN
went back to Australia for graduate work— but the relocation wouldn’t last. In 2010, she e-mailed Cincy Shakes and asked, “Can I come home?”

When the theater company closed temporarily during the pandemic, McGee started working at American Legacy Tours. Today, she’s director of tour operations. “You know when you’re in love with someone and you want to talk about them all the time?” she says.
“That’s how I feel about Cincinnati.”


So, we asked McGee to tell us why she’s in love with the city: It’s affordable. It’s walkable. It’s a big city that feels like a small town. People are friendly. It’s one of five cities in the country with a Shakespeare company, a ballet, a symphony orchestra, and an opera. And, she got engaged at a Reds game—even if she almost didn’t see it.
“[My now-husband] bought out section 509 and got 30 of our friends to hold up signs,” she says.
“Joey Votto was right in front of me, and he was stretching, and I was looking at [him]. So I almost missed the proposal.”

















PRESENTED BY:























ADDRESS:
835 ROSEWOOD DR., VILLA HILLS
LISTING PRICE:
$1,950,000



HOMETOWN HERO
BUILDER MATTH TOEBBEN PUT A NORTHERN KENTUCKY NEIGHBORHOOD ON THE MAP. NOW HIS OWN CUSTOM HOME IS ON THE MARKET. —AMY KNUEVEN BROWNLEE
JUST 15 MINUTES FROM DOWNTOWN CINCINNATI SITS A NORTHERN Kentucky manse with an impressive origin story: Built in 1977, the address was the personal home of builder Matth Toebben of Toebben Properties. He founded his company in 1955, two years after he emigrated from Germany with just $10 in his pocket.
By 1958, Toebben Properties had purchased 180 acres in Northern Kentucky that would become Country Squire Estates, a development now home to more than 40 custom houses valued from $300,000 to more than $3 million. According to listing agent and Huff Realty Senior Vice President Susan Huff, Country Squire is widely known as “the Indian Hill of Northern Kentucky.” This was where, in the 1970s, with his building empire well under way, Toebben set to creating his own personal estate.
At six acres, this property’s scale is impressive, beginning with its long driveway setting the home off from the road. The house itself totals 8,500 square feet, with five bedrooms,
four full bathrooms, and two half-baths. It is both comfortable and elegant, with unique custom touches like a grand foyer entrance with columns, gleaming marble tile, and a carved arched mahogany door wrapped in stained glass (a colorful touch repeated in multiple areas throughout the home).
The first floor includes a sprawling primary suite with two walk-in closets and a walk-in shower. Upstairs are four more large bedrooms, and the basement features a finished rec room and bar. The family room is trimmed with hand-hewn wooden beams, solid black walnut paneling, and hickory plank flooring, plus a wood-burning fireplace with hand-cut local fieldstone. The eat-in kitchen features the same stained glass treatment in its large box window and a center island with granite countertop completes the space. Outside, look for a three-car garage with an attached workshop, plus a charming backyard gazebo set off from the sizable tiled patio.












Emmanuel De Roquette
OCCUPATION: Senior designer at Icon Commerce and stylist-in-training
STYLE: Smart streetwear
How long has style been important to you? Since I was a teen because that’s how I connected with my sisters. I’ve always enjoyed the idea of being unique and different. How would you describe your style as a teen? I wanted to explore more of the grunge aesthetic, but because my sisters were like mothers to me, my sister Nancy was like, “Nope, you’re not getting JNCO jeans. That’s not your vibe.” In high school, I was very much into the preppy aesthetic. I remember always being taken into American Eagle and Abercrombie & Fitch, but I would go to secondhand stores and get interesting pieces to make it a bit more my own. I remember getting this Abercrombie polo and then going to a secondhand store and buying this bright orange neon vest. How has your style evolved since then? Especially as of late, I really love mixing things you wouldn’t traditionally wear as a man. Why can I not wear barrel jeans? I started to mix a lot of things you wouldn’t traditionally call “masculine.” I’ve been obsessed over the past couple years with the idea of carrying a bag, whether it’s a Baggu or a crossbody, because why can’t I carry that? I think it’s a trap a lot of guys fall into, that they have to carry everything in their pockets, and I’m like, “This is life-changing. I can literally carry everything I need for my day in a bag, and it’s cool.” I love the idea of being able to wear things that are not just aesthetic but functional. What’s a universal style tip you love? It’s as simple as, Wear what makes you happy. Wear what’s going to make you feel confident about yourself. Wear what’s going to be you, and do not worry about what anyone else says or thinks. —JACLYN YOUHANA GARVER



QThis is silly, but please indulge me. I was away last election day, and for the first time since the 1980s I missed the results of Busken Bakery’s famous Cookie Poll. I know that Trump won, but I always like to see the actual numbers. Now I can’t find them. Please help me!
—NUMBERS JUNKIE

Dr. Know is Jay Gilbert, radio personality and advertising prankster. Submit your questions about the city’s peculiarities at drknow@cincinnati magazine.com
every election since it began in 1984, with the exception of 2020. Yes, yes, we can hear everyone from here. In fact, the Doctor is grateful for having been prompted to view Busken’s 2020 Facebook archives and the dueling comments after election day. Yes, yes, they are exactly what you think.
Readers may be shocked to learn that voting via cookie can yield unreliable tallies. Some people get away with voting more than once. There’s no way to stop voters who live out-of-state or who may be convicted felons, underage, or unregistered. We feel fairly certain, however, that no one can buy cookies when they’re dead. So there’s that.
Please make sure to catch Busken’s results in 2028. We don’t want to go through this again.
There’s a flagpole at a very small park in Walnut Hills with a plaque at its base honoring a local soldier who died in the Korean War. I’m used to seeing war memorials with a long list of names, so just one name seems unusual. Who was this person? And who raises and lowers the flag every day?
—RALLY ROUND THE PLAQUE
DEAR RALLY:
First Lieutenant James Van Hamm Dale, 24, was killed in action in Korea on April 13, 1953. He’d arrived in Korea only two months earlier. Born to a prominent family of Cincinnati attorneys, Dale was a graduate of Yale University and had intended to join his family’s law firm. In his honor, some friends and neighbors installed a flag and plaque in tiny Annwood Park across from the Walnut Hills home where he had grown up.
DEAR JUNKIE:
Your obsession makes us suspect that perhaps you landed the role of an extra during Cincinnati’s 1988 filming of Rainman. The final results of Busken Bakery’s Cookie Poll, conducted during every presidential election since 1984, were 36,385 Trump cookies sold, 14,455 Harris cookies, and 2,703 Independents. The Busken Cookie Poll has correctly predicted
Who exactly performs the raising and lowering of this lone flag? One would guess that it’s an employee from the Cincinnati Park Board, which received a donation of the corner property from its owners in the 1960s. The Doctor, however, was not satisfied with a guess. He awoke an hour before dawn and dutifully drove to
the park to see who would raise the flag at sunrise. It was already flying. The Doctor went home and back to bed. He is not Army material.
I not only can’t translate the large German words at the top of a building at 12th and Walnut streets in Over-the-Rhine, I can barely even see them! I assume they’re from Cincinnati’s German days before World War I. Seriously, who foolishly carved those words in stone so ridiculously high? —WAS ZUR HÖLLE IST DAS?
DEAR HÖLLE:
This building has suffered a lot of foolishness and ridiculousness, but please do not blame those who built it. The German Mutual Insurance Company of Cincinnati (that’s the translation, your guess was correct) opened its three-story headquarters in 1877, and at first those large words were easily seen from the street. But then came World War I and our city’s infamous purge of all things German. The suddenly named Hamilton Mutual Insurance Company covered up the stone words, and the iconic Germania statue on the building’s facade was crudely Americanized with a flag and eagles.
Some years later an entire fourth story was added, raising up the building’s ornate top cornice by several feet. Still, the German insignia remained obscured (another war, dontcha know). The entire thing was fi nally uncovered in 2014, but its visibility is now permanently compromised by its height. Various indignities have been visited upon other German buildings and streets in Cincinnati and, while many have been resolved, this particular problem may only be solved by stilts. Perhaps a drone.



























































WELCOME TO MIDDLEHOOD
BY JUDI KETTELER

W Every Breath
and at some point or another you had to breathe.
I usually moved around in the water with a combination of side stroke and doggy paddle, rarely putting my face in the water since I wore contacts. I could get from one end of a pool to the other, but not with any kind of grace or efficiency.
I booked a 30-minute private lesson at the Blue Ash Y to learn proper technique for a basic freestyle stroke, officially known as the front crawl. I knew it could take 100 lessons to really hone technique, but I thought I’d start by seeing what $20 could get me. A lot, it turns out.
THERE ARE TIMES IN LIFE WHERE YOU need to know things. The speed limit. What time your kid’s school starts. How to do a hard reset of some system not working properly. Then there are times where not knowing something is the best possible thing. That was the case with me and swimming.
I had no bad habits because I had no habits at all. I imagine it would be the same if someone was teaching me to write computer code, where every piece of information was brand new.
The instructor asked, “What kind of breathing do you want to do?” To which I said, “The kind where I take in oxygen at some point?” So she taught me bilateral breathing—breathing every third stroke, which means you alternate sides.
I Take
THE
BENEFITS OF TURNING OFF YOUR THOUGHTS AND FOCUSING ON ONE LAP AT A TIME.
WHEN I STARTED SWIMMING LAPS IN 2017, I DIDN’T KNOW WHAT I WAS DOING. I KNEW I HAD to do something instead of running, since a bout of tendonitis had made every step excruciating. I figured water would give my legs a break but keep my lungs challenged. I had no inclination about what kind of swimmer I would be. Would I become obsessed with gadgets that counted laps? Would I start a collection of fins and paddles and snorkels? Would I start buying fancy shampoo and skin care products to counteract the effects of chlorine?
Honestly, it was a pretty ballsy move back then to declare that I would become a swimmer. I was 43 and didn’t actually know how to swim in any proper way. My movements in the water only resembled swimming—floating, treading, and playing with my kids at the pool. I knew that in real swimming, your arms did something and your legs did something
Next I learned what to do with my arms (not a windmill motion but a zip up movement) and how to hold my hands (like a loose claw). Then I learned what kicking should feel like (much more like a tiny flutter than the big movement I thought). Finally, I learned I could do whatever I wanted to turn around at the wall and not to worry too much about that at first.
If someone asked me what’s the best $20 I ever spent on fitness, I’d point to that lesson. Within a week, I was swimming a mile (66 lengths), which may seem like a lot, but keep in mind I was used to running 30 miles a week. I also wasn’t a fast swimmer. It usually took 45 minutes. (For comparison, elite swimmers can crank out a mile in under 15 minutes.)
Swimming became a regular part of my routine as my injury healed. Learning something new was exhilarating. And it



Invite your friends and family to this warm and vibrant region, just east of Cincinnati. Hike, bike and paddle your way through state parks, picturesque trails and scenic waterways. Enjoy local dining, rich history and discover family-friendly events in Clermont County.
PLAN YOUR TRIP

was a good distraction from the mundane stage of life I was in. Heading to the pool one day, I had a thought that swimming was better than having a mid-life crisis. At the time, I was writing a lot of snappy first-person pieces for The New York Times I wrote one about how swimming was helping me navigate mid-life challenges and not
Journalist Ada Calhoun, who writes about Gen X women, actually pointed to my piece as Part of the Problem. In her book about Gen X women having mid-life crises, she reduced what I wrote to a dismissal of women having mid-life crises. As if my point was that all anyone needed to do to fix everything was swim! I did not say that,
ANOTHER RUNNING INJURY RECENTLY sent me back to the water more regularly. I’m swimming several days a week, just like when I first started, except it’s different now. I’m past the tumultuous 40s, that odd bridge decade. I’m past the potential mid-life crisis. I’m past being a beginner. I’ve even cut five minutes off my mile time, thanks to YouTube videos that helped me refine my technique. I now have experience and skills and ideas about swimming.
This is to say I know what kind of swimmer I am now. It turns out I’m old-school
succumb to the crisis I could feel beckoning me. I talked about how learning something new helped me rethink the possibilities of midlife.
A few commenters thought I was smug. Apparently, my can-do tone when it comes to exercise grates on some people’s nerves.
Ada. But great cherry-picking.
Anyway, the point is that eight years ago, swimming helped me get through a tough time. I spent less time in the pool once I returned to regular running. I kept swimming, though—some months more, some months less.
I arrive at the pool with only a cap, goggles, and a towel. Other swimmers have bags of tricks. Underwater watches and waterproof ear buds. Multiple bottles, one with water and another with a sports drink in shades of blue or pink. I don’t even bring a water bottle. I’m letting my hair go gray, so who cares about the chlorine stripping out color. I twirl my hair into a bun, tug the cap over it, and go.
It’s just me and the lane, counting ev-

ery lap, one to 66. I breathe on every third stroke, every other side. I count in my head but also kind of out loud, because no one can hear you in the water. One, one, one all the way down the lane until I turn around, and then it’s two, two, two…. For 40 minutes, I’m all numbers and breathing, breathing and numbers. I don’t take my mind off the number for more than a second, lest I forget and have to swim extra.
Being old-school has nothing to do with age. Many of the regular swimmers with their gadgets are older than me. They look like they’re having fun, and I admit I do like the idea of sailing through the water with fins on my feet. Maybe I’ll try it at some point. But for now it’s just not about that. It’s about the feeling of facing the insurmountable thing.
Every time I get into the water, I don’t know how I’ll do it. My God, it’s so many laps! And sometimes it’s cold! And my goggles are too tight! But I start at one and go from there. The focus on one number
at a time and one breath at a time forces me to keep bubbling my thoughts into the water. Despite writing numerous stories about meditation and interviewing top experts about it, I’ve never actually been able to make myself meditate. Boring. Except, apparently, it’s what I’ve been doing in the pool all along.
I’ve been thinking lately about how swimming and the forced rigidity of the numbers is the exact opposite of running, where the numbers are mostly unimportant and the whole point is to let my thoughts flow. I love my long runs, that free space for thinking. Like driving or showering. Those wide-open spaces for grand contemplation.
But swimming makes me stop thinking. I would not have been interested in that when I was younger. I was sure I could think my way out of anything. Even in my 40s—or perhaps especially in 40s—I thought I was still in charge. How hilarious that seems now.


Ada may have been right that I was a little smug. I didn’t know the hardest times were still ahead. I also didn’t count on thoughts being cumulative, like compound interest. I’ve arrived at 50 with exponentially more in my head than when I was 30. Not just 20 years’ worth, but 100 years’ worth. I need the “off ” switch more than ever now.
The other day at the pool, a woman about my age asked if she could share my lane. “Of course,” I said, tucking my long hair into my cap. Lane sharing is a given most days at the Y. As long as my lane partner isn’t doing butterfly—please don’t ever do that stroke if you’re sharing a lane—I never mind.
“I promise I won’t be in the way,” she said. Like me, she didn’t have any gear. I could tell she would be faster than me. You can always see it in the shoulders. But it didn’t matter. I had 66 laps to count, and I let the blue pool swallow me. One, one, one…





E
A S I A N E A T
BY EMMA BALCOM, BRIANNA CON
HOOD, CLAIRE
LEFTON, AIE
SHA D. LITTLE, TIFFANY LUCK
EY, AND GARIN
PIRNIA
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDREW DOENCH
S !
S
From China to Nepal to the Philippines, the Queen City is packed with delicious cuisines from all over Asia. We explore the restaurants, dishes, drinks, and sweets that satisfy our hunger. KEY Vietnam Korea India China Thailand Japan
Malaysia
Phillipines
Nepal

AMMA’S KITCHE N A M M A ’ S K I T C H E
With both North and South Indian offerings, Amma’s menu is more of an adventure of discovery than the typical curry place. The beloved lunch buffet is the perfect place to try new dishes like sambar (tangy spiced lentil soup), medu vada (spiced lentil donuts), idli (steamed rice cakes), and the many different chutneys and sauces to dip your dosa (thin crispy rice crepes). A plus? The lunch buffet is fully vegan on Wednesdays. 7633 Reading Rd., Roselawn, (513) 821-2021, ammaskitchen.com
TRAY CHIC
The thali platter at Amma’s is a quick way to sample lots of flavors on the menu—it’s chock full of stews, rice, vegetables, and dips.

Kyoto Japanese Cuisine
One look at Kyoto’s extensive list of sashimi and sushi rolls can be overwhelming at first—the fast-casual sushi joint offers close to 100 options to choose from. But have no fear: Tons of unique flavor combinations will have you coming back for more. For beginners, try out the crispy crab roll (crab, cream cheese, tempura) or the ever-popular Sunday morning roll (salmon, avocado, cheese, tempura). 12082 Montgomery Rd., Symmes Twp., (513) 583-8897, kyotosushibar.com

Asiana Thai and Sushi
After more than two decades in business, Asiana boasts market-fresh ingredients and full-flavored cooking. The crispy pad Thai (with the restaurant’s signature crispy noodles, bean sprouts, eggs, scallions, ground peanut, and your choice of protein) and the mango curry (mild yellow curry with onions, carrots, bell pepper, snow peas, and mango) are some of the top-tier dishes here. 3922 Edwards Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 351-0999, asianacincinnati. com
Oriental Wok
Ramailo Café
B&D Asian Nepali Market opened its doors last August, with plans to eventually open a restaurant. Ramailo Café opened its doors on Valentine’s Day and there’s a lot to love, like momos (Himalayan dumplings), the savory Tibetan soup thukpa, Pyaaji onion fritters, and jackfruit curry. Make sure you try our favorite, the pani puri—fried puff “shots” filled with potato, chickpeas, onions, and spices, and spicy flavored water. 9172 Winton Rd., Springfield Twp., (330) 605-9343, ramailo.cafe
Walking into Oriental Wok’s Ft. Mitchell location feels like being transported to a swanky hotel on the Las Vegas Strip, with koi ponds and a bounty of red paper lanterns hanging from the ceiling. The menu balances traditional Chinese cuisine with chef’s specialties like Cantonese lobster and asparagus stir-fry. The chicken lettuce wraps and Mongolian beef are must-tries. 317 Buttermilk Pike, Ft. Mitchell, (859) 331-3000; 2444 Madison Rd., #104, Hyde Park, (513) 8716888, orientalwok.com
Thai Namtip
The traditional decor and wood accents in Thai Namtip make visitors feel as though they’re dining in someone’s home, and the service is just as friendly. The pad kee mao (wide rice noodles stir-fried in soy sauce with bamboo shoots, carrots, sweet peppers, Thai spices), otherwise known as drunken noodles, hit the spot while the lunch special (all entrées are served with your choice of spring roll or soup of the day) is a deal worth the trip. 5461 N. Bend Rd., Monfort Heights, (513) 481-3360, thainamtip.net
Pho Lang Thang
If you’re looking for great Vietnamese food, Pho Lang Thang owners David Le and brothers Bao Nguyen and Duy Nguyen have been turning out some of the best for nearly 15 years. Lemongrass grilled pork and chicken, g i cu n (rice paper wrapped spring rolls), and bun (rice vermicelli noodle salad) are fan favorites. We recommend the pho b , made with 20-hour Sakura Farms Wagyu beef broth. 1828 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 376-9177, pholangthang. com
Riverside Korean
At Riverside, you’ll be greeted with a narrow, wood-paneled and warm interior. Continue to the back and around the corner to find the other half of the space that is much brighter, modern, and features a full bar and walls filled with tigers. No matter which vibe you choose, it’s a great spot for a dine-in meal. The crab rangoons do not disappoint, and the kim chi zhi gae (kimchi stew) steals the show. But be careful, it’s served hot! 512 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 291-1484, riversidekoreanrest aurant.com
B I S T R O B
As the name implies, many of the entrées are served in a dolsot traditional stone pot. Choose your meat, and it will come with a variety of veggies and toppings. If you want to go a different route, the jab chae (stir-fried sweet potato noodles with cabbage, onion, green onion, zucchini, and bell pepper) is a popular Korean dish. 7876 Mason Montgomery Rd., Mason, (513) 492-7006, dolsotbistro.com
RIB IT
Need something with a kick to it? Try Dolsot Bistro’s doeji deung galbi (grilled baby back rib with Gochujang seasoning).

Global Cuisine
This hidden Filipino gem has a lengthy menu covering everything from lumpia to seafood, like pompano escabeche (sweet and sour fish) to mang inasal BBQ chicken. Besides the restaurant, there’s also a bakery. It’s difficult to choose from banana turon (sliced bananas rolled in spring roll wrappers, fried, and coated with caramelized brown sugar), and halo-halo. Might as well get both. 11707 Lebanon Rd., Sharonville, (513) 883-8932




Bánh Mì
French colonial rule of Vietnam in the mid-19th century created this sandwich when street vendors in Saigon took baguettes and filled them with traditional Vietnamese ingredients. At Dope!, you can get them with pork belly, lemongrass chicken, tofu, or beef, and topped with pickled daikon, pickled carrot, cucumber, cilantro, jalapeno, and an aioli mayo. 100 E. Court St., 2nd Floor, downtown, (513) 263-5940; 2912 Wasson Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 351-0123, this stuffisdope.com



Korean Corn Dog
STREET SMARTS




The Queen City is
Replace the cornmeal batter of an American corn dog with a wheat or rice flour batter and you’ve got yourself a gamja hot dog, a.k.a. Korean corn dog. Decibel Korean Fried Chicken’s dogs are coated in batter, rolled in diced potato, and fried twice. You also get the restaurant’s signature “fly” sauce and gochujang BBQ sauce. 922 E. McMillan St., Walnut Hills, (513) 429-5002; 2750 Park Ave., Norwood, (513) 332-2214, decibel chicken.com
Tornado Potato Fries
A whole potato cut into a spiral, fried to a golden crisp, and slapped on a skewer, these aren’t your average fries. Made popular in South Korea, Hawkers Alley tops it with your choice of tangy condiments: spicy salt, spicy mayo and parmesan, Japanese mayo, barbecue sauce, or truffles and parmesan. 28 W. Court St., downtown, (513) 421-2326, hawkers alley.com



Okonomiyaki


First found on the streets of Osaka, these savory pancakes can be topped with your favorite protein and drizzled with Japanese mayo. At Quan Hapa, you can get three versions: house, tempeh bacon, or classic shrimp. Each comes with tonkatsu sauce, green onion, and an egg sunny side up.
1331 Vine St., Over-theRhine, (513) 421-7826, quanhapa.com









Vietnamese Street Tacos
Nick Ho and Nora Gavarrete of Chino’s mix their Asian and Hispanic backgrounds for these delicious tacos, which offer marinated chicken, cucumber, carrots, cilantro, and jalapeños bundled in flour tortillas and smothered with cilantro mayo. At Findlay Market, 119 W. Elder St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 218-6955, chinos streetfood.com




MATSUY A M A T S U Y
Parties of five or more guests can take a step into Matsuya’s traditional tatami room and seat themselves on tatami mats on the floor around a low table. The restaurant’s extensive menu offers an array of authentic Japanese entrées, from kaiseki full-course dinners to nabemono (pot cooking at the table) to a full sushi bar to ramen and noodle bowls to staples like chicken katsu. 7149 Manderlay Dr., Florence, (859) 746-1199

SUSHI KING
(From left) Omakase means “I’ll leave it up to you” in Japanese, so your meal is the chef’s choice. At Matsuya, the chef-curated sushi dinner deluxe meal comes with shrimp and vegetable tempura.
Kim’s Korean
A strip mall in Harrison may be an unusual home for an authentic Korean restaurant, yet Kim’s Korean is there, nonetheless. The menu— both lunch and dinner—is simple, with various bibimbap, stir fry, and noodle dishes. Meat lovers should try the Bulgogi Chungsik (marinated beef served on a hot cast iron plate with rice), and don’t skip the spicy rice cakes and seafood pancakes as an appetizer. 10548 Harrison Ave., #500, Harrison, (513) 367-2040

Krishna Indian Restaurant and Carryout
Right across from UC, this carryout spot has been a favorite of students for decades with good reason. The family running Krishna has honed their recipes over the years, with dishes like chana masala (chickpeas cooked with onions, garlic, ginger, and spices) and chicken tikka saag served up fast with some of the freshest hot naan in town. 313 Calhoun St., Clifton Heights, (513) 961-2878, krishnacarryoutcincy.com

Gabriela Filipina Kantina
Gabriela is named after revolutionary leader Gabriela Silang, who died in 1763 trying to end Spanish colonization in the Philippines. The fusion of Spanish and Filipino food is reflected in the lechon rice bowl (slow-roasted pork belly, crispy skin, and housemade sweet and tangy Mang Tomas sauce), chicken adobo, longganisa (garlicky sausage), and a bakery selling Filipino desserts. Order the ensaymada, a brioche pastry made with butter, sugar, and cheese. 2750 Park Ave., Ste. E, Norwood, (513) 275-7664, gabrielafilipina.com
Pho Viet
The pho gets your mouth watering, turning everything else on the menu into an afterthought. Enjoy your noodles in beef broth with chicken, steak, and brisket or steak, brisket, tendon, tripe, and meatball. Orders come with a side of bean sprouts, fresh mint, sliced hot peppers, and lime wedges, and you can further customize your bowl to your tastes with the soy sauce and sriracha on every table. 6173 Glenway Ave., Ste. B, Westwood, (513) 4811555, phovietcincy.com
Sago
In 2023, Bon Appétit named Paul Liew’s prawn mee (thin and thick noodles in a soup) one of the best meals of the year. The chef, who grew up in Kuala Lumpur, rotates the Cantonese-Malaysian menu, including lamb samosa and nasi lemak with beef rendang (a spiced dry curry). Sometimes there’s char kuey teow street noodles, roast duck noodles, and BBQ pork noodles, but every day the place offers comfort food in the form of soups and noodles. 1004 Delta Ave., Mt. Lookout, (513) 321-0982, citrusandsago.net
Blue Gibbon Chinese Restaurant
Blue Gibbon has been a Cincinnati staple for more than 40 years, delivering old-school charm and comforting Chinese fare. Familiar classics like wonton soup, spring rolls, and sesame chicken as well as a healthy variety of vegetarian dishes keep regulars coming back. But if you’re feeling a bit more adventurous, go for the salt and pepper calamari or the Peking pork loin. 1231 Tennessee Ave., Paddock Hills, (513) 641-4100, bluegibbon. net
Wild Ginger Asian Bistro
The traditional fried rice and pad Thai are recommended, but don’t skip ordering an appetizer (or two). With starters like chicken potstickers (pan-fried chicken and vegetable dumplings served with ginger-soy sauce), wild ginger lettuce wraps (with your choice of protein tossed in hoisin sauce, celery, carrot, and water chestnut), and crispy tofu are just some of many options to start your meal. 3655 Edwards Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 533-9500, wildgingeroh.com
Delhi Palace
This is the place to go for classic North Indian dishes. The chicken tikka masala may be the most decedent and creamy in town. Crispy samosas burst at the seams with spiced potatoes and peas begging to be dipped in a tangy tamarind sauce. Finish off your meal with the incredibly refreshing mango juice mixed with rosewater. 7133 Montgomery Rd., Silverton, (513) 791-0921, delhipalaceindia.com
Kanji
While it’s known for its half-price sushi menu, there are tons of other entrées to choose from at Kanji. The sun du bu chi ke (soft tofu stew with clams, eggs, and mushrooms in a spicy kimchi broth) is known as one of the most authentic Korean dishes they offer, according to the staff. If you’re in a sushi mood, try the kimbap (cooked rice and your choice of meat or veggies rolled in dried seaweed), a Korean dish similar to a sushi roll. 1739 Elm St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 873-8350, kanjiotr.com
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If you’re looking for authentic Cantonese cuisine, Uncle Yip’s in Evendale is the real deal. The no-frills dining room fills up fast during lunch and dinner, but by far, the restaurant is known for its legendary weekend dim sum service. From steamed shrimp dumplings to pan-fried turnip cake with Chinese sausage, these dim sum favorites, served from push carts, offer bold flavors with a creative twist. 10736 Reading Rd., #2529, Evendale, (513) 733-8484, uncleyips.com
Baru
Baru’s “stay-drink-sushi” maxim may pin it as a late night cocktail spot, but don’t be fooled—the joint doesn’t skimp on good food. Don’t overlook the steaming lobster shot (red coconut curry soup topped with a chunk of lobster meat) or the vegetable curry (savory curry over a bed of rice and mixed vegetables, topped with crispy, juicy kitchen katsu). To make the most of your experience, visit during Maki & Sake Mondays, featuring half-off maki rolls and bottles of sake, wine, and champagne. 595 Race St., downtown, (513) 246-0150, barusushi.com
Christine’s Casual Dining
The menu is nearly thick as a novel— taco salads, spaghetti, margaritas, and seafood—but owner Christine McDay’s Filipino roots shine through. Specialties include pancit, egg rolls, pork skewers, and Filipino soup as well as Filipino breakfast staples like tapsilog (marinated thinly cut steak served with two eggs and garlic rice) and longsilog (sausage links, fried eggs, and garlic fried rice). Don’t forget to save room for the halo-halo! 3360 Westbourne Dr., Bridgetown, (513) 574-1273, christinescasualdining.com
Mirchi Indian Restaurant
Opened in 2023 by the family behind Krishna Carryout, Mirchi is a delicious addition to Hamilton’s diversifying food and business scene. Portions are enormous, so it’s a great opportunity to go with friends and share some lamb vindaloo and saag paneer. Plus, if you eat in for lunch on weekdays, naan is free with the purchase of any entrée. 250 High St., Hamilton,(513) 893-9019, mirchi.browndog.app
Bridges Nepali Cuisine
Since their humble beginnings as a food stand at Findlay Market in 2015, the owners of Bridges have set about bringing Nepali food to every corner of the tri-state. The four current locations offer the standards—aromatic basmati rice, momos, hakku chuala, and the like. But we’re obsessed with the woh, a pancake made of ground mixed lentils marinated in fresh ginger and Nepali spices and stuffed with a protein of your choice. Multiple locations, bridgesnepalicuisine.com
Stone Bowl Korean & Ramen Restaurant
Stone Bowl’s recommendation to all first-time visitors is to start with an order of the crunchy dumplings (filled with bean curd) and to order the stone bowl bibimbap as your main dish (crunchy purple rice, lettuce, salad mix, egg, and your choice of tofu, vegan dumplings, chicken, pork belly, or beef).
Bibimbap is served in a 450-degree stone bowl so be sure to mix up the bottom to keep it cooking when it’s first served. 3355 Madison Rd., Oakley, (513) 533-9600, stonebowloakley.com
Lemon Grass
Settle in and enjoy some wine or sake from the bar before your meal in this warm, inviting east side institution. The menu is filled with entrées grouped by protein type, curries, noodle dishes, soups, and salads. The basilbased dishes feature Thai basil leaves, which are bitter and more aromatic than your run-of-the-mill basil. Don’t leave without trying the sticky rice with mango and green tea ice cream. 2666 Madison Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 321-2882, lemon grasscincy.net
HOT TO GO
Rating Asian dishes with a heat expert.
—AIESHA D. LITTLE
When it comes to spicy food, Nikki Tran, a guest representative for local Asian American cultural organization Asianati, is something of a connoisseur. “I grew up eating and loving spicy food,” she says. “I really enjoy the flavor and heat. If it’s an option to add spice, I will always take it!” We asked her about her favorite local hot dishes.
Orange chicken and ho fun noodles at KungFood AmerAsia (521 Madison Ave., Covington, 859-261-6121, kungfood.online): “The flavors here are unique. Quite different than what you’re used to in most Chinese restaurants. The spice level is no joke! Most of my friends order a level 0 or 1 here. Even I can only do a maximum of level 3 here.”
Pad see ew at Numprik Thai Lao (214 S. Main St., Monroe, 513-995-9365, numprikthailao.com): “The regular spice levels are 0–5. However, there’s a ‘secret’ spice level for those who can handle a lot of spice—levels 6–25 called ‘Fire Breathing Dragon’ spice.”
Dry fried chili chicken and spicy boiled fish filets at Sichuan Chili (10400 Reading Rd., #205b, Evendale, 513-376-7223): “One of the best, most authentic Sichuan spots in town. Pro tip: Ask for the Chinese menu.”
Chicken pad Thai at Thai Express (213 W. McMillan St., Clifton Heights, 513-651-9000): “They are known to have the best chicken pad Thai in town! It comes mild but can add spice level 1–10.”
Chicken 65 at Indian Spice Train (7165 Liberty Centre Dr., West Chester Twp., 513-402-1401, indianspicetrainoh. com): “Most people aren’t familiar with this dish from Indian restaurants but Chicken 65 is a popular South Indian chicken appetizer made by deep frying marinated chicken with curry leaves and green chilies. It’s very spicy!”
Other favorites of Tran’s include “red hot pepper” Korean fried chicken at CM Chicken (7206 Towne Centre Dr., Liberty Twp., 513-779-2626, cmchickenkorean.com) and Szechuan hot and spicy sliced beef rice noodle soup at Ten Second Noodle (7606 Cox Ln., West Chester Twp., 513-644-2674)
CURRYING FAVOR

B O W L ’‘N ‘
Owner Yvonne Chew hails from Malaysia and has introduced Malay cuisine to the UC crowd. The “tea” part of the name references a long list of bubble teas, including durian milk tea. As for the “bowl,” the best sellers are curry laska, a creamy coconut-based broth noodle soup, and nasi lemak, which contains rice cooked in coconut milk and pandan and infused with blue butterfly pea flowers. 211 W. McMillan St., Clifton Heights, (513) 744-9800, teanbowl. com
Shaan Indian Cuisine
Shaan takes a less chile-forward approach that emphasizes flavor, making its dishes more approachable. The tikka bhartha (chicken tikka in spiced eggplant) is a delightfully smoky dish with an aromatic spice blend that warms you from the inside out. Order with the perfectly chewy chapati (traditional baked whole wheat bread) for dipping and soaking up the extra sauce. 3880 Paxton Ave., Oakley, (513) 533-3100, shaanindiancuisineohio. com
Saigon Subs & Rolls
Jot India
Part of what sets Jot India apart is its sense of fun, especially in the appetizer selections. Crispy pakora (batterfried fritters filled with chicken or vegetables) cooked up fresh are served alongside tikka masala waffle fries (with shredded paneer). When you get to the main course, go for one of the curries, available in lamb, chicken, or seafood. 1709 Monmouth St., Newport, (859) 415-2000; 4989 Houston Rd., Florence, (859) 534-0222, jotindia togo.com
Downtown workers are very familiar with Saigon’s game; after all, the Vietnamese eatery is open only until 2 p.m. on most weekdays. If your lunch break doesn’t allow enough time to savor a big bowl of pho, we suggest you snag a bánh mì (with your choice of beef, pork, chicken, or marinated tofu) served with cucumber, pickled carrots and daikon, cilantro, and jalapeños on a chewy baguette or a bun, traditional Vietnamese noodle salad bowl with vermicelli noodles, meat or tofu, fried spring rolls, lettuce, cucumber, pickled carrots and daikon, cilantro, green onion, and peanuts. 151 W. Fourth St., downtown, (513) 381-7827, saigonsubsandrolls.square.site
Nagomi Japanese Restaurant
Well-known for its sushi rolls and bento boxes, featuring fish flown in from Japan, the service brings customers back time and time again. Husband and wife Yukio and Reiko Fukunaga operate the restaurant by themselves, from the serving to the cooking, and will have you feeling like part of the family with the care they take to explain the menu and get to know their guests. 526 Main St., Covington, (859) 919-1900, najomijapanese restaurant.com
Great Tang
Don’t let the suburban locale fool you. Great Tang surprises with authentic, wide-ranging Chinese and Sichuanese-style cuisine. The vibe is quiet and upscale, yet great for dinner with younger children or a weekend lunch with friends. It offers generous portions of classics such as General Tso’s chicken as well more daring fares like sliced dry stir-fried bullfrog in hot pot. 7340 Kingsgate Way, West Chester Twp., (513) 847-6097, greattangoh.com
Teak Sushi & Thai Cuisine
Teak recently made a comeback and while its location has changed, much of its menu of authentic Thai dishes have stayed the same. The edamame (steamed soybeans with sea salt) makes the perfect light snack for the table and the crispy pork belly is a popular house special. 110 S. Second St., Loveland, (513) 583-8325; 1200 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 421-8325, teakotr.com

Hotpot takes soup to new heights.
—AIESHA D. LITTLE
Hotpot is an ancient Chinese cooking method involving a boiling broth filled with an assortment of meats, noodles, and vegetables, and dates back more than 1,000 years to the Zhao Dynasty. At Mala Hotpot (3177 Glendale Milford Rd., Evendale, 513-407-3039, mala-hotpot.com), start by choosing one of four soups (spicy, beef tomato, chicken mushroom, or miso) before selecting from 16 types of protein (including angus rib eye slices, flank steak, chicken breast, and quail eggs) and nine different vegetables (everything from bok choy and broccoli to lotus root and radish). You can also substitute frozen, fried, or fish tofu for your protein, if you like. Lastly, pick your carb (ramen, udon, rice noodles, or rice cakes) and boil your way to a fully belly. You can also try variations of hotpot at Seoul Korean BBQ & Hotpot (5113 Bowen Dr., Mason, 513-486-1668, seoulbbqhotpot.com), Top Pot & K BBQ (11974 Lebanon Rd., Ste. 300, Sharonville, 513-510-4299, toppotbbq.com), and K-Town BBQ & Hot Pot (3836 Paxton Ave., Hyde Park, 513-866-3888, ktownbbqcincy.com).
KungFood AmerAsia
This quaint and quirky gem is as much about personality as it is about whimsical Asian fusion fare. Walls covered in vibrant pop art and a laid-back vibe set the stage for some of the best pad Thai in the city. Be sure to get the piquant Dragon’s Breath wontons, stuffed with pork, steamed or fried, and topped with chili paste, hot chili oil, and cilantro. 521 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 261-6121, kungfood.online
Thai Express
At this carry-out joint, you’ll find a homey-feeling kitchen cooking up authentic Thai dishes from a menu packed with variety. Start your meal with the veggie spring rolls (crispy, filled with mixed vegetables, and served with a tangy dipping sauce) before loading up on the fan favorite the Kao pad (Thai-style fried rice with onions, tomato, green onions, egg, your choice of protein). 213 W. McMillan St., Clifton Heights, (513) 651-9000
Aap Indian Restaurant
If you’re looking for Indian favorites with some extra flair, west-siders will tell you that Aap is the place to go. Drop by for the lunch buffet and try some of its most decadent dishes, like 10 different kinds of Biryani, including goat, shrimp, and paneer variations. Wash it all down with a salted lassi (like a traditional mango lassi but with salt and cumin seeds instead of sweet rose water), or even a margarita. 6430 Glenway Ave., Green Twp., (513) 832-7448, aapindiarestaurant.com
Ando
Established 27 years ago, this family-run restaurant offers a regularly rotating, five-part menu including an array of sushi rolls, meat and seafood entrées, noodles, and seasonal meals and appetizers. Some staff members say the fishboats are the star of the show, featuring enough sushi, sashimi, and tempura to feed the table. Others argue the bento boxes are the way to go—mix and match meats, sauces, seasonings, and sides, all served with miso soup, ginger salad, and rice. 11255 Reed Hartman Hwy., Blue Ash, (513) 954-0041, andojapaneserestaurant.com
Pho Kimmy
Along the corridor of international restaurants on Reading Road in Sharonville sits this casual eatery. Known for its savory pho, bánh mì, and translucent spring rolls, Pho Kimmy has been a Vietnamese staple in the ’burbs since 2017. Personally, we prefer the spicy beef vermicelli soup, the deep-fried popcorn chicken, and the bánh xèo, the Vietnamese version of a savory crêpe. It’s a crispy turmeric pancake stuffed with shrimp, pork, and bean sprouts, served with fresh herbs and pickled carrots. 11974 Lebanon Rd., Sharonville, (513) 769-5999, pho-kimmy.com
SWEET DREAMS
Follow up your savory Asian appetizers and entrées with these treats. —CLAIRE LEFTON
Red Bean Custard Bun
Despite having the word “cake” in its name, the real highlight of Kiss Cake Bakery’s Chinese offerings are its buns. You can get them with all kinds of fillings, like taro, ube, Nutella, coconut, and even hot dog, but red bean lovers should try the one filled with a sweet, nutty red bean paste. 10400 Reading Rd., #115, Evendale, (626) 592-7577
Strawberry Green Milk Tea with Strawberry Popping Boba
At Boba Angel, you could make hundreds of different drink combinations of teas, flavors, and add-ins, but one of
its most popular is the strawberry green milk tea. The strawberry pairs great with the earthy green tea, plus the bursting boba gives you more strawberry and a fun popping texture. 203 E. Seventh St., 1st Floor, downtown, (513) 417-8824
Gulab Jamun
New to South Asian desserts? These are a perfect place to start. Also known as milk donuts, these dense little balls made from milk powder are fried up and drenched in sweet rose syrup. Brij Mohan also has a version stuffed with paneer. 11259 Reading Rd., Sharonville, (513) 7694549, brijmohancincin nati.com
Ube Halaya Croissant
This vibrant purple treat may be Café Mochiko’s most iconic pastry. A house-baked croissant is filled with ube halaya jam and sweet ube cream and finished with a dusting of ube powder to complete the yam-tastic experience. You may need a fork and knife to tackle this delicacy. 1524 Madison Rd., East Walnut Hills, (513) 5591000, cafemochiko.com
White Rabbit Latte
This latte is based on the popular milkflavored White Rabbit candy from China. KungBrew Café starts with Vietnamese espresso from Lang
Thang Coffee and adds sweetened condensed milk, vanilla, and steamed milk. Despite the sweetness, the bold depth of the espresso rounds out the flavor perfectly. 640 Main St., Covington, (859) 7503033
Japanese Cheesecake
This “must try” treat at Qlicious is much fluffier and bouncier than its American counterpart, like a sweet airy souffle with a little cheesy bite at the end. When warmed up, the cake jiggles, so feel free to play with your food. (If you can make it home without eating the whole thing.) 1505 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 850-2388















WORTHY OF LASTING LOVE











By KELLY BLEWETT Photographs by ANDREW DOENCH

The mother/daughter team of writer Suzy Hopkins and artist Hallie Bateman could have published graphic novels without each other’s help, but why would they want to?







MOTHERLY ADVICE





















When writer Suzy
a graphic novel about navigating life after the loss of a parent, she hadn’t even read a graphic novel. “I honestly didn’t know what that was,” she says now, thinking back.
Hopkins worked in journalism and raised three kids. The family was full of creative people and lively conversation, and she loved the idea of taking what had been a long family discussion— the inevitability of parental loss—and turning it into a volume to help others. She said yes to Bateman’s idea immediately.
Hopkins also loves to give advice, and this book would be full of it—beginning on “Day 1” after the loss of the mother, when the daughter is advised to “Make fajitas.” Following the recipe, the mother-narrator concludes “serve with fresh tortillas, chopped cilantro, and good salsa” and asks “Now don’t you feel better?” Without even ering a paragraph break, she answers her own question: “Of course you don’t. Pour yourself a glass of whiskey.” Bateman’s picture shows a counter with tasty looking fajitas, a tissue box, and a large bottle of alcohol.


From the earliest pages, (Bloomsbury Publishing, 2018) strikes a tender, personal tone of compassion and humor. Bateman’s poignant full-color illustrations visualize homey landscapes, plates of food, fl ers, embracing friends, dense forests, and possessions the mother left behind, including a pink vibrator that’s accompanied by the text: “What, mothers don’t have sex? All evidence points otherwise.”

Interwoven with advice about what the daughter should do (go rollerblading, take a field trip, buy a good pair of shoes) are recipes for comfort food: brownies, chicken and dumplings, pecan pie, quiche, curry, and chili. When finding someone to share the brownies with, the mother admonishes the daughter to avoid “someone who’s going to carp about fat and calories; that’s the last thing you need.” Instead, she tells the daughter, “Look for a person who lights up at the mere mention of homemade brownies.”


Reading the book feels like a warm, honest hug. That didn’t mean, though, that the process of creating the book was easy. The women had to become something more egalitarian than mother and daughter: creative collaborators.

“I remember a fairly signifi recalls, and Bateman, sipping an oat milk latte, nods. The pair were on the second of two retreats to fi

Hopkins was writing in the corner, and Bateman was drawing on the bed. The problem? Hopkins was writing too much. “I was slow on the uptake of what we were doing,” she says.

Hopkins remembers Bateman saying, “I don’t need all these words.” She replied, “Gosh, Hallie, that’s half of what I’ve written,” to which Bateman said, “Don’t need it, don’t need it, don’t need sts and pushes them together, demonstrating the clash. “At some point Hallie snaps at me, ‘I’ve been doing this for seven years.’ To my credit, I did not say…” And nishes her mother’s sentence, “that you had been writing for like 30 years!” They laugh. “The squabbling would be unbearable for someone who overheard us,” says Bateman, “but for us it was just part of the mother/daughter co-writing process.”


Bateman, who had never worked on a project quite like this one, had bigger concerns at that point. They had been rejected by publisher after publisher, who were wary of publishing a story that plainly of death. “I was full of doubt,” she says. “I was afraid





Their first book together, What to Do When I’m Gone Suzy Hopkins’s advice for her daughter. The new one, to Do When You Get Dumped, is Hopkins’s advice for herself.
it wouldn’t sell and no one would want it. I just had this insecurity, If I tell myself it will
Hopkins nods. “That’s so universal,” she says, validating Bateman’s impulse to protect herself from the worst. But Hopkins achievement.”







ALWAYS



her husband,who is referred to as X in change of just over.” But that didn’t make the years ahead any easier. rst book was Hopkins’s advice for Bateman, was Hopkins’s advice for herself. Like rst book, it’s written directly to a


TEACHING Suzy Hopkins and Hallie Bateman have grown from a opposite page) into graphic novel ) was published in January.


FAMILYTIES










SOY T THE WORLD



After meeting in an internment camp during WWII, two Japanese American families cooked up a plan to make Cincinnati the Midwest’s tofu capital.





BYLAURIEPIKE



“You are what you eat” has special resonance for native Cincinnatians. We grew up chomping Grippo’s potato chips, stretching cheese from LaRosa’s pizzas, and battling brain freeze from Graeter’s black raspberry chip ice cream. Even longgone culinary experiences seem encoded in our DNA. Mention Rubel’s to an elder, and they’ll wax poetic about rye bread baked by the Russian immigrant family (full disclosure: I’m related!).
From A (the Aglamesis brothers) to Z (Zip Kirschner of Zip’s Café), Cincinnati is rich in immigrant and ethnic origins of culinary delights. Our particular—some might say peculiar—taste buds are so tongue-and-groove with place that national media, when reporting on the Queen City, invariably highlight the Macedonian Kiradjieff family’s chili or goetta synonymous with the German-descended Gliers.
Two names, however, are woefully overlooked in the pantheon of exceptional local foods: Yoshio Shimizu and Takeshi “Ben” Yamaguchi. These Japanese-American entrepreneurs, along with their wives Toshi and Alyce, founded Soya Foods in 1945. From a modest factory in Price Hill, they quietly built a powerhouse business by turning the region on to the healthy joys of tofu.
Yoshio Shimizu and Ben Yamaguchi moved their families across the country to Price Hill, where “they liked the neighborhood’s German population,” says Ben’s grandson Steve. “They felt some empathy with the Germans.”
As the only tofu maker for more than 100 miles, Soya Foods attracted hungry and homesick Asian and Asian American customers from near and far. The small retail store inside the factory—which sold fresh tofu, sprouts, and noodles along with cookware, crockery, and non-perishable victuals imported from Japan—became a hub for Japanese Americans who hungered as much for a sense of community as for its canned

unagi and pickled vegetables.
On the surface, the story of Soya Foods sounds like the American dream: Two immigrant couples pooling resources to create a company that thrives for decades, providing for their children’s college educations. But Soya’s founding was preceded and prompted by “an American nightmare,” according to Tadashi Robert “Bob” Shimizu, Yoshio’s son.


THEPASTISALWAYSPRESENT
Family heirlooms include a childhood photo of brothers (from left, opposite page) Ben, Robert, Paul, and Steve Yamaguchi; their aunt Evelyn with husband Phil Shiota; and internment camp era ID papers and photo of Ben, Alyce, Ben Jr., and Evelyn Yamaguchi. (Bottom) Bob Shimizu with daughter Jenny Shimizu Risk and grandson Matthew Risk. Bob and his brother Paul pose with their mother, Toshi (middle) , and with other Japanese-American families (top) at the Poston internment camp in Arizona.




YBob was a toddler when his father and Ben Yamaguchi met in a place that marks a dark chapter in American history. If the two Californians hadn’t been forcibly interned during the World War II, Soya Foods would never have come about. The business concept was born at the worst time in the families’ lives, but eventually made for a prosperous transition in an alien Midwestern setting. Even the company’s demise, almost a half-century later, was paradoxically a form of success.
ou know tofu. It’s the mild, simple, low-calorie yet protein-rich food made from soybeans. When soaked, ground, cooked, curdled, and dried in a cheese-like process, the legumes become white or pale beige, creamy and smooth like custard or firm and crumbly like Roquefort.


Tofu is so versatile it can serve as a satisfying substitute for meat or dairy. It’s tasty naked or with a splash of soy sauce as a guilt-free snack. Readily absorbing the flavors of whatever it’s cooked with, tofu is an amiable addition to myriad recipes, adding heft and texture without overpowering. Popular restaurant dishes made with it today include Agadashi Tofu (deep-fried cubes in broth), Buta Dofu (pork and tofu stir-fry), and Mapo Tofu (a spicy Sichuan dish with meat and fermented bean paste).

Tofu originated in China two centuries ago and was quickly adopted in Japan. In


enough for the word to be italicized in this magazine. Today, area grocery stores carry at least a dozen different brands of it.
Neither Soya founder intended to go into food wholesaling or had considered living anywhere but California. In the early 1940s, Yamaguchi ran Ben’s Place, a diner in Dinuba, a small agricultural town near Fresno. Shimizu, an autodidact as familiar with carpentry tools as with philosophy books, was foreman of a rose nursery in San Leandro in the San Francisco Bay area. Like Yamaguchi, he had a wife and two small children.

the immediate post-World War II period, however, pretty much the only people with a hankering for it locally were Asian Americans (441 individuals in the city per the 1950 U.S. census) and Chinese restaurants, of which there were just a handful. So it was a gamble for Shimizu and Yamaguchi to base an entire business on it here in Cincinnati.
For the venture to work, tofu would have to reach a wider audience. Americans would have to acquire a taste for the mild foodstuff.


The two couples would have to work long hours and reinvest profits back into the business.
Both men were patriotic and socially prominent. Life was good. And then in 1942 came the nighttime knock at the door. Shimizu and Yamaguchi were arrested without cause, ripped away from their families in an FBI roundup.


“They didn’t tell my mother what was happening and why or where my father was going and when he would be seen next,” says Bob Shimizu, who was 3 years old at the time. The family later learned that Yoshio was in an internment camp in Bismarck, North Dakota, along with people of German and Italian descent, all suspected of helping their mother countries in World War II. “They took everything away from my dad,” says Bob. “Our whole life was taken away.”
It took years, but their bet paid off. Tofu indeed grew from an obscure specialty to a healthfood wonder ingredient. It is vegan and packed with iron and fiber, so its popularity continues to expand along with health consciousness. In 1984, almost 40 years after Soya Foods was established, tofu was still exotic

After Japan attacked Pearl Harbor in 1941, a new wave of “Yellow Peril” unleashed the same kind of xenophobic hysteria seen in Germany toward Jews, gays, and Roma. The U.S. government built and ran internment camps for Japanese and Japanese Americans in the western U.S. Women and children were not spared. A mere 1/16th of Japanese lineage could get people locked up;

CONGRATULATIONS TO THE 2025 WINNERS
A LETTER FROM THE DEAN
UNIVERSITY OF CINCINNATI COLLEGE OF NURSING
INIn addition to recognizing and celebrating nursing talent in the Greater Cincinnati region, the Torch of Excellence Nursing Awards provide a unique opportunity to honor nursing leaders through history, offering deeper insight and a richer understanding of the profession. This year, we highlight the legacy of Dr. Loretta Ford, a pioneering figure whose vision and leadership were instrumental in creating the nurse practitioner role, which reshaped and expanded the scope of nursing to meet the growing healthcare needs of communities.
Just as Dr. Ford recognized the need for nurses to take on expanded roles to address healthcare shortages and improve patient access in the 1960s, modern nursing navigates similar challenges. Nurses today continue to advocate for broader autonomy, greater involvement in decision-making, and more opportunities to meet the growing demands for healthcare. The nursing profession, with its adaptability and commitment to care, remains a key player in tackling health inequities and shaping future healthcare delivery.
The nearly 250 nominations received for this year’s awards are a testament to the transformative power of nursing in the face of an ever-changing landscape. They reflect the impact of our nurses in addressing healthcare disparities, improving patient outcomes and enhancing the overall quality of care, and highlight the talent of nurses to innovate, educate, and lead.
We are grateful to coworkers, patients, family members, and supervisors who took the time to share the amazing contributions of this year’s nominees. As we celebrate these outstanding nurses, we honor Dr. Ford’s enduring legacy and ongoing influence of nursing, in shaping an equitable, healthy future for all.


Alicia Ribar, PhD, APRN, FNP-BC, CNE Dean & Schmidlapp Professor of Nursing University of Cincinnati College of Nursing















TORCH OF EXCELLENCE NURSING AWARDS 2025

MINDY ALLEN, MSN-ED, RN, CPH, CIC
Cincinnati Health Department
In her role as Nursing Supervisor at the Cincinnati Health Department’s Communicable Disease Unit (CDU), Mindy Allen is “a shining example of a positive role model, impacting her community, organization, colleagues, patients and their families through her leadership, advocacy, and dedication to public health,” says supervisee Tyler Parsons.
Allen’s pivotal role in securing the Adaptation of Project Firstline Tools and Resources Project grant—which aims to build the capacity of health departments to deliver tailored infection prevention and control training and resources to healthcare facility partners, including skilled nursing facilities in Cincinnati—showcases her expertise in managing complex public health initiatives and speaks to her ability to balance strategic planning with hands-on leadership.
To facilitate project implementation, Allen has already engaged in discussions with partners and collaborators, and taken steps to ensure training resources are both culturally sensitive and widely accessible. Her proactive efforts, innovative approach, and unwavering focus on improving community health outcomes make her an exceptional leader in this project and a testament to excellence in care.
Allen’s ability to navigate complex challenges with grace and professionalism inspires confidence among her peers, colleagues and community partners. “Mindy’s leadership ensures high quality outcomes that reflect her commitment to public health and the community she serves.”

LESLIE BISHOP, BSN, RNC, C-EFM
St. Elizabeth Healthcare
Leslie Bishop has been a nurse for 31 years, primarily in Labor and Delivery. Her clinical expertise and compassionate care make her a trusted and respected figure among colleagues and patients. Coworker Danielle Meyer praises Bishop’s bone-deep dedication to nursing: “You hear stories about nurses wanting to move away from the bedside as they get experienced, but not Leslie. She is in the nitty gritty of the daily hustle and bustle of a very busy Labor and Delivery unit—and is not slowing down.”
Known for her ability to manage emergencies ensuring the safety and well-being of both birthing persons and newborns, Bishop’s commitment to nursing extends to leadership roles including Chair of the Education Committee, onboarding new staff, and teaching essential programs like Neonatal Resuscitation and the Women’s Health, Obstetric and Neonatal Nurses (AWHONN) Intermediate Fetal Monitoring course. Most recently, she joined the American College of Obstetrics and Gynecologists (ACOG) so she can access the most up-to-date and evidence-based practices to help guide her practice and influence policy and procedure changes at St. Elizabeth.
Bishop’s advocacy for patients, commitment to lifelong learning, and clinical knowledge make her a standout nurse, positively impacting her unit and the broader community. “St. Elizabeth is the only birthing hospital in Northern Kentucky, so Leslie truly benefits the community… She is a gem that shines brightly on our unit,” says Meyer.
TORCH OF EXCELLENCE NURSING AWARDS 20XX
TORCH OF EXCELLENCE NURSING AWARDS 2025

LISA BURNS, MSN, MED, RN IV, CPN
Cincinnati
Children’s Hospital Medical Center
Lisa Burns has dedicated 23 years to nursing and is an invaluable member of Cincinnati Children’s Hospital’s Specialty Resource Unit (SRU), where she is trained to work across 17 units, including critical care areas. Her expertise and ability to provide high-quality care in any setting have earned her the trust of both colleagues and patients. As an SRU Radiology Transport RN, she developed a specialty team that supports higher-acuity patients during transport, ensuring their safety and advocating for their needs. Burns’s manager Julie North explains, “[Her] dedication to her patients, their families, our institution…is evident from the moment she walks into our doors.” North calls Burns “a wealth of knowledge” who can deftly transition from one unit to the next, providing heartfelt care.
Beyond her clinical excellence, Burns has made significant contributions to nursing education and professional development. She is also deeply involved in Shared Governance, advocating for best practices and standardization across the organization, and has coached nurses pursuing advanced certifications, reviewed leadership applications, and contributed to safety initiatives
Lisa’s impact extends to community outreach and volunteer work, including helping with COVID-19 vaccination efforts. Colleague Shadae Howard adds, “Her work at clinics in locations such as Washington Park, Findlay Market, and Cincinnati Public Schools highlights her dedication to public health and community service.” But at the end of the day, Howard says it’s Burns’s “unwavering loyalty to her patients, families, and community, along with her ability to adapt and excel in various roles, [that] exemplifies her commitment to excellence in care.”

BONNIE EILERMAN, MSN, APRN, NNP-BC
Cincinnati Children’s Hospital Medical Center
Bonnie Eilerman has dedicated 23 years to neonatal care, working across multiple hospitals in the region. Always demonstrating exceptional clinical expertise and leadership in the care of critically ill neonates, she is particularly known for her innovative contributions, such as her development of the Pilot CPAP device, designed to improve respiratory support for extremely premature infants. This device aims to reduce the complications caused by traditional CPAP masks, ensuring better patient comfort and safety.
Eilerman’s work extends beyond patient care. She led a quality improvement initiative to enhance nasal suctioning techniques and is currently serving as the lead investigator on a study exploring cranial deformations caused by extended CPAP use. She also secured funding for discharge carts to improve the comfort of postpartum mothers, demonstrating her commitment to improving the overall patient experience.
A proactive leader, Eilerman advocates for new equipment and improvements, often stepping into roles that bridge the gap between nursing and medicine. Her tireless work ethic, dedication to innovation, and positive attitude have made a lasting impact on her colleagues and the families she serves.

HOLLY PFRIEM, MSN, APRN, CNP
Cincinnati Children’s Hospital Medical Center
Holly Pfriem has dedicated nearly 40 years to Cincinnati Children’s, where she currently serves as the Clinical Director of Advanced Practice Providers for the Heart Institute. Th roughout her tenure, Pfriem has been a fierce advocate for education, mentorship, and improving patient care. She has served in various leadership roles, leading the Heart Institute’s Advanced Practice Provider team and supporting both clinical care and educational initiatives.
Supervisor Jerry Schwartz applauds Pfriem’s dedication: “Holly is tenacious when it comes to education for her team and her patients, letting no stone go unturned as she ensures that her team and her patients have the information they need.”
Her commitment extends beyond direct care, as she has played an instrumental role in the development of community programs, such as Project ADAM, which promotes sudden cardiac arrest preparedness in schools and communities. Pfriem’s ability to get a diverse group of people on the same page for a common goal has allowed her to facilitate training, site assessments, and emergency preparedness drills to ensure schools are equipped to respond to cardiac emergencies. To date, 15 schools in Greater Cincinnati hold the Heart Safe School designation, with another 25 additional schools and organizations on their path towards the designation.
Pfriem isn’t just her team’s role model, she’s also a cheering section for their profession. Her dedication to both her patients and the community has earned her admiration and respect from colleagues and peers alike.

VERONICA SCOTT-FULTON, DNP, MPH, BSN, NEA-BC
Bon Secours Mercy Health
Much has been said about a “patient-centered” approach to nursing, but for Veronica ScottFulton, this philosophy is personal. Scott-Fulton watched her grandmother, a midwife in South Carolina, transform healthcare in her community with a blend of skill and compassion, says coworker Danielle Wessel. This early exposure ignited a lifelong passion for nursing that’s had a profound impact on patients, peers, and administrators. “Whether she’s leading nearly 22,000 nurses across 49 hospitals at Bon Secours Mercy Health [BSMH] or working directly with teams on the front lines, Veronica ensures that care is never just clinical—it’s deeply personal.”
At BSMH, Scott-Fulton’s work addressing social determinants of health ensures that care goes beyond treating symptoms to tackling the root causes of inequities. Through strategic vision and heartfelt connection, she embodies what it means to lead with excellence in care for patients, families, and communities. With a leadership style that perfectly blends visionary thinking and heartfelt connection, Scott-Fulton’s expertise combines several degrees with decades of experience leading nursing operations level. “But ask anyone who’s worked with her, and they’ll tell you that her real gift is the way she makes people feel—valued, inspired, and capable of achieving greatness,” Wessel adds


CARRIE WASHINGTON, BSN, RN
Cincinnati Veterans Affairs Medical Center
Carrie Washington has had a significant impact on her community and the nursing profession. She is a longtime participant in the WHO (Women Health Organization) for women veterans; served as president of BIG (Blacks In Government); has worked for Outreach, a homeless veteran program, and the Equal Employment Opportunities (EEO) program; and serves as the secretary for the Specialty Clinic’s Unit Practice Council.
She has received numerous certificates for leadership, preceptorship, and mentorship, and each year, she hosts a Women’s Empowerment Conference. But Washington’s contributions are much deeper than these achievements. Coworker Christina Smith says Washington approaches each patient with “a profound sense of empathy, ensuring that every individual under her care feels heard, respected, and supported. [Washington] inspires others to strive for excellence.”
With more than 17 years of nursing experience and a 35-year career in government service, Washington’s “professionalism promotes safety for the mission to serve our veterans, and she is always happy to help,” adds her coworker Karen BosemanLampkin. Washington’s leadership, team spirit, expertise, and dedication to veterans and the nursing community makes her a valuable resource in the Cincinnati VA Medical Center.




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Parks & Recreation
Parks & Recreation
The Midwest shows off both its natural beauty and historic heritage in an array of national, state, and local parks offering opportunities to past. We offer this guide to more than 50 road trip-worthy attractions throughout Ohio, Indiana, and Kentucky.
OHIO
Buckeye Delights
Ohio is home to a half-dozen national historic parks, sites, monuments, and memorials commemorating the lives of soldiers, and innovators. Among them, the Dayton Aviation Heritage National Historical Park (nps.gov/daav) celebrates poet Paul Laurence Dunbar and of Orville and Wilbur Wright on the Huffman Prairie and Wright-Dunbar interpretive centers, stroll through Carillon Historical Park, and tour the Wright Cycle Shop and Paul Laurence Dunbar House Historic Site.
president. Guided tours of the house and self-guided cellphone tours of the grounds are available. In Cincinnati’s Mt. Auburn district, the Taft National Historic Site (nps.gov/ wiho) includes the home and birthplace
person to ever serve as both U.S. president and chief justice of the

Education Center to view a
a tour of the property. At the National Historic Site in Canton, guests can visit Saxton House, the family home
president William McKinley. Rotating exhibits in the visitor center highlight the achievements
throughout history.

pays tribute to free speech.
Past U.S. presidents and their spouses take center stage at a trio of Ohio destinations.
National Historic Site (nps.gov/jaga) in Mentor showcases the preserved
Named for a distinguished brigadier national park superintendent, the National Monument (nps.gov/chyo) in Wilberforce salutes the legacy of a Kentucky-born soldier who rose through the ranks of the U.S. Army despite racism
Perry’s Victory & International Peace Memorial (nps.gov/pevi) in Put-inBay honors soldiers who fought in the Battle of Lake Erie during the War of
level, includes an observation deck at the top that provides views of the






CVGairport.com/Voyager





surrounding islands. Nearby attractions like the Lake Erie Islands Conservancy (lakeerieislandsconservancy.org) and Lake Erie Islands Nature & Wildlife Center (lakeerieislandswildlife.com) are prime picks for bird-watchers and conservationists.
Observe ancient Native American earthworks and mounds dating back 2,000 years at Hopewell Culture National Historical Park (nps.gov/ hocu) in Chillicothe. Ohio’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site offers educational guided tours led by park rangers and
archeologists. Visitors to the area can also
Great Seal, Paint Creek, Pike Lake, Scioto Trail, and Tar Hollow (ohiodnr. gov)
Between Cleveland and Akron, Cuyahoga Valley National Park (nps.gov/cuva)
hickory trees that provide a canopy of shade in the summer and explode with color during fall. More than 125 miles of hiking trails lead visitors to star natural attractions like Brandywine Falls, Bridal Veil Falls, and Blue Hen

Falls. Cyclists who want to take to two wheels and cover even more ground
just outside the park, or they can stick to the Ohio & Erie Canal Towpath Trail, which traverses 20 miles of old canal remnants through some of Cuyahoga’s most scenic forests and wetlands. A more relaxing route to view the park’s beauty comes via the Cuyahoga Valley Scenic Railroad (cvsr.org), which offers 90-minute and 3-hour rides in a vintage rail car with an onboard café. The Stanford House (conservancyforcvnp. org) and Inn at Brandywine Falls


Handcrafted bourbon, graceful Saddlebred horses, and iconic Southern comfort food perfected by Colonel Sanders himself. Designer shopping and luxurious places to stay. Close to the city without being in the city and full of small town charm. Paired with our authentic Southern hospitality, it’s easy to see why ShelbyKY is known as Your Bourbon Destination® and the Saddlebred Horse Capital of the World. In other words, ShelbyKY is everything you love about Kentucky.



(theinnatbrandywinefalls.com) provide homey accommodations with historic charm within the park.
Well-known in the Midwest for its scenic caves, gorges, rock formations, and waterfalls, Hocking Hills State Park (ohiodnr.gov/hocking) near Columbus is one of the top spots in Ohio to enjoy nature. The park features multiple hiking trails ranging
of the most popular trails is the easy, quarter-mile Ash Cave Gorge path leading to a wide, horseshoe-shaped recess cave with a waterfall. It can be combined with the more moderate Ash Cave Rim trail to create a loop. The narrow trek winding through a deep gorge with lots of elevation changes, stair steps, twists and turns, and tight squeezes to reach the bottom. Nearby Hocking State Forest (ohiodnr.gov) provides rock climbing and rappelling opportunities for extreme-sports enthusiasts. An on-site lodge with amenities like indoor and outdoor center, and a gift shop is available for overnight stays. The park also offers campgrounds and cabins.
Known for scenic rivers and dense forests, Mohican State Park (ohiodnr. gov/mohican) in Loudonville is a prime mountain biking. A Registered National Natural Landmark, the Clear Fork Gorge Scenic Overlook provides panoramic views of the area. Adventurous souls can cross the pedestrian Swinging Bridge connecting the Gorge Overlook and Hemlock Gorge trails. The surrounding



Mohican-Memorial State Forest (ohiodnr.gov) is home to a wide array of wildlife including white-tailed deer, red foxes, dusky salamanders, American toads, and more than 15 species of birds, most notably many species of warbler.
Touted as “the most scenic state park in Western Ohio,” John Bryan State Park (ohiodnr.gov) is close to the town of Yellow Springs, known for its twiceyearly street fairs (yellowspringsohio.org). The park features 10 hiking trails, perfect for viewing the breathtaking limestone gorge of the Little Miami River. Visitors also enjoy rock climbing and rappelling, golf. Specialty hikes, including evening full-moon and nocturnal outings, and stargazing sessions showcase the scenery after dark.
Covering more than 17,000 acres of land
and nearly 3,000 acres of water, Salt Fork State Park (ohiodnr.gov) in Cambridge is Ohio’s largest state park. Among its
level, the Storybook Trail takes visitors on a short walk lined with the pages of a nature book. While exploring the forest, guests can stop by the Kennedy Stone House to get a glimpse of an 1840s home turned museum. The Salt Fork Lodge & Conference Center (saltforkparklodge. com) houses guests in its main lodge and nearby cabins. Amenities include indoor and outdoor pools and a golf course, game room.
Located on Lake Erie just outside Toledo, Maumee Bay State Park (ohiodnr.gov) in Oregon features boardwalk trails through swamps and marshland, perfect for birdwatchers who want to observe hawks, eagles, great blue herons, egrets, swans,

Always in Season?
IT’S A SHORE THING


Shores & Islands Ohio is a year-round destination, just a short drive away. Immerse yourself in culture through a variety of diverse community events. Indulge in local cuisine, from upscale to casual, even dine by the lakeside. Take a ferry ride to a Lake Erie island, paddle along miles of beaches, and explore natural trails. Enjoy quaint downtowns and museums, and experience the beauty of the changing seasons in the region. Make memories that’ll last a lifetime. Find your Lake Erie Love at SHORESandISLANDS.com





and warblers. The recently renovated Trautman Nature Center includes a children’s play area and interactive exhibits devoted to local wildlife species. Overnight accommodations at the park include an on-site campground as well as the sprawling Maumee Bay Lodge & Conference Center (maumeebaylodge. com)
While Indiana refers to Brown County as its “Little Smokies” park, Ohio labels Shawnee State Park (ohiodnr.gov) in Portsmouth with the same nickname as a nod to the area’s rolling Appalachian foothills. The former hunting grounds for Native American Shawnee tribes is also home to the 63,000-acre Shawnee State Forest, the largest such property in the state. In addition to hiking and biking, visitors can go horseback riding, backpacking, birding, swimming, and boating. Alongside the A-frame nature center, the historic Civilian Conservation Corps log cabin explores the park’s Indigenous history.
Nestled in the valley of Big Sandy Run inside Zaleski State Forest, Lake Hope State Park (ohiodnr.gov) in McArthur provides a rustic escape in nature. The former iron smelting and
a second-growth forest that includes oak and hickory trees and plentiful

in the lake and taking in sun and sand on the beach, visitors can rent canoes, kayaks, paddleboards, and pontoons from the Lake Hope Boat House (lakehopeboathouse.com). On-site camping is available at the park with a wide range of cabin options.
Explore Ohio’s geological history at Kelleys Island State Park (ohiodnr. gov) on Lake Erie. Accessible by ferry, the island has a limestone base that features unique grooves and striations

caused by glaciers. The park includes trails for hiking and biking, a swimming beach, picnic areas, and a campground with yurts and cabins. The charming island community is also home to Charles Herndon Galleries & Gardens (charlesherndon.com) where you can see large stone sculptures, and Kelleys Island Wine Co. (kelleysislandwineco. com) where you can sample wine and get a bite to eat.
INDIANA
Hoosier Hot Spots
Stretching along the southern shore of Lake Michigan, Indiana Dunes National Park (nps.gov/indu) in Porter and Indiana Dunes State Park (on.in.gov/ indianadunesp) in nearby Chesterton showcase towering sand dunes, diverse ecosystems, and miles of pristine beaches that rival coastal destinations out-ofstate. They are ideal locations for hiking, bird-watching, stargazing, swimming,
can take to the Calumet and Porter Brickyard bike trails in the national park,
Century of Progress Homes originally built for the 1933 Chicago World’s Fair. Designed to exhibit innovative building materials and architectural styles of the time, these homes serve as a unique window into mid-20th century design trends. The futuristic House of Tomorrow is newly restored and scheduled to reopen this summer.
While it is well-known for its famous toboggan run in winter, Pokagon State Park (on.in.gov/pokagonsp) in Angola is






















another Northern Indiana locale offering plenty of sun and sand at Potawatomi Inn Beach, as well as scenic trails for hiking. Three area lakes—James, Jimmerson, and Snow—provide a picturesque setting for aquatic recreation including waters and sandy beaches make them ideal for swimming and sunbathing, and paddleboat, pontoon, and rowboat
restaurants and shops in the area add to the appeal. The lakefront Potawatomi Inn at the state park features 126 guest rooms and 12 cabins with two dining
options, an indoor pool, a hot tub and sauna, and a game room.
Perfect for paddlers who enjoy kayaking and canoeing, Chain O’Lakes State Park (on.in.gov/chainolakessp) in Albion features nine interconnected lakes. Hikers can explore over 20 miles of trails, while anglers will appreciate plentiful opportunities. The and campsites for overnight stays.

One of the largest municipal parks in the U.S., Eagle Creek Park (eaglecreekpark. org) on the west side of Indianapolis offers visitors convenient access just off I-465 to hike wooded trails, paddle on the 1,400-acre reservoir, or participate in zip-lining and sailing. The park hosts nature centers, a bird sanctuary, and educational events throughout the year.
a military fort that now includes miles of hiking and biking trails, a 238-acre Pete

provide a glimpse into its military past. The historic Ft. Harrison Inn accommodates guests and puts them at beauty and amenities.
History and political science buffs can also delve into the past at George Rogers Clark National Historical Park (nps.gov/gero) in Vincennes, which honors an American Revolution military leader. The Revolutionary
for independence stretched all the way
where a British fort was captured in a dramatic maneuver.
at the Lincoln Boyhood National Memorial (nps.gov/libo) in Lincoln
On the other side of Indy, Ft. Harrison State Park (on. in.gov/fortharrisonsp) was once
formative years in Indiana through the






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the road is Lincoln State Park (on. in.gov/lincolnsp) featuring campsites, cabins, 10 miles of trails, a nature
Lincoln Amphitheatre (lincolnamphitheatre.com), which hosts seasonal live music performances. The 2,200-seat outdoor entertainment venue hosts Steven Adler of Guns N’ Roses and the Kenny Wayne Shepherd Band among
McCormick’s Creek State Park (on.in.gov/ mccormickscreeksp)
picturesque spot to relax and enjoy the natural beauty. Visitors can also explore caves, enjoy picnic areas, and stay

historic Canyon Inn, which provides easy recreation center, and a swimming pool.
vistas, Brown County State Park (on. in.gov/browncountysp) is Indiana’s acres. Its extensive trail system caters the Hesitation Point Trail is great for cyclists. A popular spot for leaf-peeping,
fall when its forests are ablaze with camp to explore the area’s outdoor amenities, and it has a restaurant and
option that nods to area history is The Nashville House (nashvillehousebc. com), which previously served as a guest house in 1859. The original structure burned in 1943, but it was rebuilt and dumplings.
Turkey Run State Park (on.in.gov/ turkeyrunsp)
Visitors can explore sandstone gorges, suspension bridges, and picturesque
splendor, and nearby Sugar Valley Canoes rental (sugarvalleycanoes.com). Guests can arrange accommodations in the main enjoy the picnic areas, and go on guided and history.
Shades State Park (on.in.gov/shadessp) offers a quieter alternative and solitude
spots including the Devil’s Punchbowl trailhead. Shades is a prime site for with trails that lead to gorgeous views of
A restored pioneer village complete with of Spring Mill State Park (on.in.gov/ springmillsp)















































RICHMOND HOSTS THE CINCINNATI RED STOCKINGS 1862 Baseball’s Rivalry Game Returns and the Georgetown Gentlemen for their Victorian-era this match featuring no modern equipment is set for 10 a.m.
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WINE, WHISKEY, ALE AND FOREST TRAILS
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VISIT KENTUCKY STATE PARK VISIT STATE PARKS and fall in love with our New Kentucky Home. and fall in love with our New Home.













LODGES • CABINS • RESTAURANTS • CAMPGROUNDS
MARINAS • MUSEUMS • TRAILS • GOLF COURSES • FUN PARKS.KY.GOV






































































The Lodge at Mammoth Cave (mammothcavelodge.com)
KENTUCKY
Clifty Falls State Park (on.in.gov/cliftyfallssp)
Chandler Hotel (thechandlerhotel.com)
Bluegrass Beauty Mammoth Cave National Park (nps.gov/maca)
Cumberland Gap National Historical Park (nps.gov/cuga)
Charlestown State Park (on.in.gov/ charlestownsp)


gastropods, horn coral, brachiopods, and crinoids embedded in its walls, as well as rock formations such as stalactites and stalagmites. Hikers can traverse 80 miles of trails while taking in the scenery and views of wildlife including deer, beavers, foxes, bobcats, bears, and birds.
Our 16th president made multiple Midwest states home during his lifetime. The Abraham Lincoln Birthplace National Historical Park (nps.gov/abli) in Hodgenville commemorates the place

where he was born in 1809. Visitors can pay respects to Lincoln at the memorial building, which houses a symbolic cabin, in the Birthplace Unit of the park. The Boyhood Home at Knob Creek Unit boasts a log cabin similar to the one in which Lincoln lived as a young child. On-demand audio tours are available for self-guided tours, and ranger-led programs are scheduled periodically.
Passing through multiple states including a section of Southwest Kentucky, the
Trail of Tears National Historic Trail (nps.gov/trte) observes the history of the forced removal of Native American tribes, including the Cherokee, from their homelands in the 1830s. The Trail of Tears Commemorative Park (trailoftearshopkinsville.org) in Hopkinsville includes the gravesites of chiefs Whitepath and Fly Smith and a restored log cabin that serves as its Heritage Center. Visitors to the area can also explore Pennyrile Forest State Resort Park (parks.ky.gov) in Dawson
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Springs for hiking, swimming, boating, golf, and bird-watching. Its stone lodge offers 24 guest rooms and 13 cottages for overnight stays.
The Red River Gorge Geological Area (redrivergorge.com) in Stanton is a natural canyon system formed over millions of years by waterways cutting through the area’s sandstone bedrock. A favorite spot for rock climbing, mountain biking, hiking, kayaking, zip-lining, and UTV tours, the National Natural Landmark spans 29,000 acres within Daniel Boone National Forest (fs.usda. gov/dbnf). One of the area’s highlights, the Natural Bridge is a 65-foot-tall sandstone arch that stretches 78 feet in length. Natural Bridge State Resort Park (parks.ky.gov) in Slade allows visitors to explore this landmark by hiking the scenic trail or riding the Skylift to access the bridge. The park’s Hemlock Lodge offers rooms with private balconies overlooking the wilderness and individual cottages for guests.
Carter County in Northeast Kentucky is home to the largest concentration of





caves in the state. Carter Caves State Resort Park (parks.ky.gov) in Olive Hill welcomes visitors to tour its scenic Cascade, X, Saltpetre, and Horn Hollow cave systems. Bat Cave—the largest in the park— accommodates around 40,000 Myotis bats who hibernate in the cave during the winter. The state park features 33 miles of nature trails that provide views of stunning rock formations, arches, cliffs, sinkholes, and natural bridges. Travelers can book rooms at the Lewis Caveland Lodge, line up a two-bedroom cabin, or reserve with Carter Caves.

with a 68-foot vertical drop. One of the few places in the world where you can view a moonbow—a rainbow at night during a full moon—the park is also a great spot to go rafting, hiking, horseback riding, mining and bird-watching. Accommodations include guest rooms at the on-site DuPont Lodge, cabins, cottages, and campsites.
A prime spot for scuba
Affectionately known as the “Niagara of the South,” Cumberland Falls State Resort Park (parks.ky.gov) in Corbin showcases a 125-foot-wide waterfall
of water sports, Dale Hollow Lake State Resort Park (parks.ky.gov) in Burkesville also includes a nationally ranked golf course and 12 miles of trails for hiking, mountain biking, and horseback riding. Birding enthusiasts can keep an eye out for eagles as well as Cooper’s hawks, northern bobwhites, ring-necked ducks, green herons, and indigo buntings among the area’s many species. The park’s Mary Ray Oaken Lodge sits atop a bluff overlooking the lake and

























































offers 60 guest rooms, some of which are pet-friendly.
Named for the legendary French American naturalist and onetime Kentucky resident, JohnJames Audubon State Park (parks. ky.gov) in Henderson allows visitors to explore the grounds where Audubon studied birds in the 1800s. The site includes a museum with three galleries displaying family artifacts, original artwork, and a full set of Audubon’s Birds of America watercolor paintings. Visit the attached nature center to observe
in environmental and art education activities, then venture outdoors to stroll the boardwalk overlooking the wetlands.
Home to one of the largest man-made lakes in the country, Lake Cumberland State Resort Park (parks.ky.gov) in Jamestown is a relaxing watery retreat
sunsets. The park features a scenic lodge, cabins, and cottages, and houseboat rentals can be arranged through State Dock (statedock.com).
in 1924, Pine Mountain State Resort Park (parks.ky.gov) in Pineville provides mountaintop Appalachian views of the Kentucky Ridge State Forest (eec.ky.gov) The park includes 12 miles of hiking trails leading to landmarks like Chained Rock, Hemlock Garden, and Meditation Point. The Laurel Cove Music Festival (laurelcovemusicfestival.com) in June takes place at the on-site amphitheater, bringing country artists, craft vendors, and food trucks to celebrate creativity in nature.
Featuring Ice Age fossils and a live bison herd, Big Bone Lick State Historic Site (parks.ky.gov) in Union is known as the “birthplace of American paleontology.”
The bones of prehistoric mammals such as mammoths, mastodons, ground sloths, and stag-moose have been discovered in the area. Big Bone Lick’s museum and diorama pit share history and artifacts from the site and include models showing the previous animal inhabitants in their environment. Guests can explore the grounds, observe the bison herd, and participate in orienteering—a woodlands navigation sport—on one of two courses.



FROM THE PARAMOUNT PICTURES ARCHIVE & THE TRUMBULL COUNTY HISTORICAL SOCIETY
Anglers delight in Green River Lake State Park (parks.ky.gov) in Campbellsville,
skis, pontoons, and ski boats are available to rent, and the campground includes a beach for sunning and swimming. Landbased activities include hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding, miniature golf, and bird-watching. Hawks, eagles, osprey, sparrows, and waterfowl have been spotted here. Fans of the TV series RV There Yet? (rvthereyettv.com) may recognize Green River Lake from an episode highlighting sights and attractions around Campbellsville, such as My Old Kentucky Home (visitmyoldkyhome. com) in Bardstown and the National Corvette Museum (corvettemuseum.org) in Bowling Green.














































































person who is going through a break-up; the first entry is titled “Dumpee Bill of Rights.” “I wanted to find some resource,” she says. “I mean, I’m pretty type A. I wanted to know that if I do A, B, and C and then follow it up with L, the package will magically help me get over this stupid marriage. Well, there wasn’t any such guide, and it took much more energy than I expected.”
The break-up happened two days before Hopkins’s retirement, just months before the publication of her and Bateman’s first book. Suddenly Hopkins was in an entirely new chapter without a roadmap. She did a
“Mom!” Bateman cuts in, horrified, when Hopkins relates this story during the interview. “I didn’t know that! Are you serious?”
As I watch them interact, I interject, “Was this the time that X said, ‘Oh God, I miss the dogs?’ ” I was referencing another memory from the book, which appears on a page titled “Prepare for the Aftershocks.” It shows Hopkins, tears streaming down her face, with her eyes closed and arms folded on a table in front of her. A compassionate looking dog watches her from his spot in front of a toasty fireplace. The text reads: “A few days later [after the break-up], X may restate how difficult this split is for them, the terrible angst they’re experiencing, admitting in a voice heavy with heartache, ‘God, I miss the dogs.’ ”
The women burst out laughing at my reference to this scene. Though I’d never met them, the book had been so specific I felt I already knew them well.
Bateman champions specificity when
A FAVORITE BOOK SPREAD FEATURES A SQUATTY BADGER AND THE TEXT, “YOU WOULD NOT PASS JUDGMENT ON A BADGER. WHY ARE WE SO PRONE TO DO IT TO PEOPLE?”
lot of yard work, trying to lose herself in daily physical labor. She also started trying to figure it all out the way she knew best, by writing.
In an attempt to gain some perspective immediately after the break-up, Hopkins sat down to make a list of the worst things that ever happened to her, a process that’s memorialized in Dumped on a page titled “Think the Worst.”
Hopkins was comforted that getting dumped ranked third on her personal list of worsts, behind childhood terror of an alcoholic father and the loss of a beloved sibling to suicide. It wasn’t, in fact, the worst thing that ever happened to her. But as she was working on the list, initially only for herself and not for public consumption, X visited to pick up some of his belongings. “What are you working on?” he asked. Unprepared to deflect the question, Hopkins showed him the list.
creating the books. “There’s so much power in that,” she says, pointing out that a book about generic break-ups without any examples from Hopkins’s story wouldn’t be “much of a book.” Though it includes a ton of advice (“Tell Your Story,” “Set Boundaries,” “Nourish Yourself”) the book is also at a fundamental level Hopkins’s memoir.
Bateman’s desire for specificity combined with Hopkins’s compulsion to take careful notes resulted in amazingly vulnerable disclosures. The insights are beautifully conveyed via words and pictures, and the book gently flows from the trauma of the break-up toward a moment of healing.
The page representing the healing moment features Hopkins staring up the sky, where she sees three geese flying together. To her, they represent the three children who’d been raised and launched over the course of the marriage. Part of the text
reads, “My three children, I was reminded, were the beautiful result of those years. I chose that moment, more than four years in the making, to unbreak my heart. You have choices too.”
It’s a powerful example of Hopkins claiming a narrative about the marriage that deeply resonated and enabled her to go forward, and Bateman drew it faithfully. The book concludes with Hopkins, accompanied by two dogs, staring off into the sunrise and offering these words for readers: “You are worthy of lasting love.”
TO ACCOMPLISH THIS KIND OF REPresentation, mother and daughter agree, requires a high degree of trust as well as a willingness to closely engage, which they refer to variously as squabbling, wrangling, and “going back and forth.” The process, as compared to the early days with the first book, has grown more fluid as the women figure out the emotional center of a page together, always attending to the relationship between the word and the images. “Hallie’s gift is putting things in pictures,” says Hopkins. “She will look at this list of what happens to me, and then she’ll see images.”
In some cases, they negotiate the images by having Bateman create three or four, with Hopkins determining which one feels the most like her intended meaning. Other times, Bateman will freehand draw while discussing with Hopkins what a particular page should look like.
They didn’t initially intend to write about the break-up, but the timing of the break-up with the book tour of What to Do When I’m Gone felt like a bad joke. “I should be writing a book about what to do when you get dumped!” Hopkins recalls thinking at the time.
Instead, they did the tour and Hopkins returned to her home in northern California, while Bateman went back to Los Angeles. Hopkins busied herself with chores and writing and wondered why healing wasn’t coming along more quickly. She called Bateman and her other kids frequently with updates and book ideas. Three years passed. Hopkins wanted to write another book with Bateman but wasn’t sure which of her ideas to pursue. “You had like 10 really good ideas, and I was excited to work on any of them,” Bateman says now to Hopkins. To
help Hopkins make a decision about the next project’s direction, Bateman had an idea that seemed natural as an Angeleno: “I hired a tarot card reader.”
The women didn’t tell the reader anything about Hopkins’s circumstances. After meeting with Hopkins, the tarot card reader said, “I think you should write your memoir as a pathway to your healing.”
Hopkins was astonished: “I had already started to think about the project, but she described it. I said, ‘Well, that answers it.’ ”
Hopkins doubled down on her notewriting. “I began taking notes about what worked to make me feel better and what didn’t work and what had happened and what irritated me,” she says. “Which was everything.”
Looking back, the pair agree that the project started in earnest when Hopkins was in what they call the “mid-muddle stage.” That’s the long, inchoate season of confusion and pain following the break-up. “The muddle is so long,” Hopkins laments. That reality is reflected in the structure of Dumped, which has four parts: The End (27 pages), The Muddle (50 pages), The Beginning (27 pages), and Unbroken (7 pages). The muddle is about twice the length of any other stage.
At times, Bateman wanted her mother to move faster through the process. She recalls being in a hotel room on one of their retreats and trying to force a breakthrough. She sketched her dad’s face on a piece of paper and stuck it on a chair. “Get mad at Dad!” she told her mother. But Hopkins wasn’t sure what to say. The exercise started with a bang and ended with a whimper. “I could have done it a year later, though,” Hopkins says as she thinks back to that exercise now.
“I’m a speedy puppy, and Mom is a slow, wise turtle,” says Bateman of their respective speeds of work. “There’s a lot of drafting and then waiting for the next step.” She mimes panting like a puppy waiting impatiently as her mother laughed.
It was focusing on not rushing, allowing the pain to unfold at its own pace and dealing with it bit by bit that made up a lot of the book’s advice—those notes that Hopkins needed herself and provided for others. “For both of us, the ethic of it has to be true, because the truth is clean,” says
Hopkins.
Recommendations in the beginning include being honest about the emotional experience of loss, such as the piece “So Let’s Talk About Crying.” The page answers three questions about crying that could make the reader both laugh and wince. First, who is saddest about the crying? Answer: children, close friends, siblings, coworkers who actually like you, and your dog. Next, who is happiest about your crying? Answer: your divorce lawyer, your cat, and tissue manufacturing execs. Finally, who is least equipped to handle your crying? Answer: the man from the moving company, your real estate agent, other Xs who dumped someone else, and passersby in the produce aisle.
Bateman’s illustrations bring these lists to life: a sympathetic dog with eyes trained on Hopkins’s face, a smiling divorce lawyer handing her a tissue, and a grimacing mover gazing uncertainly over the edge of a couch while she cries on the cushion. “All of this stuff actually happened to me,” Hopkins says as she flips through the book, each page recalling specific memories from her four years of healing that made her simultaneously shudder and laugh.
Figuring out how to communicate these moments and what tone to use throughout the book was a collaborative enterprise, and mother and daughter pored over each page together, then had an ongoing text exchange about items they might want to put in. At one point, Bateman and Hopkins were at a museum and observed a couple out in public together, but one partner was far ahead of the other, walking briskly, while the other lagged behind, carrying bags and looking put upon. Bateman and Hopkins flashed each other a look—they knew the scene would go in the book. It appears on a page about relishing singlehood alongside examples of unhappy aspects of coupledom such as trite matching shirts, arguing over chairs in IKEA, and eating in silence.
BY
WORKING ON WHAT TO DO WHEN YOU
Get Dumped, Bateman and Hopkins figured out a way to live through and process Hopkins’s grief together. “It was an honor to be part of this amazing synthesis of information,” Bateman says now.
She also feels the project brought them
closer together. When asked about her favorite spreads in the new book, Bateman points to a page called “Behold the Badger.” The badger stands tall and proud, gazing at the viewer directly and accompanied by the text praising “its uniqueness: the adorable stripes, the squatty yet confident stance” and urging readers to be kind to themselves: “You would not pass judgment on a badger. Why are we so prone to do it to people? Let’s take care of ourselves, and the badgers, too, with some basic respect.”
For Bateman, the spread is “pure, uncut Suzy Hopkins: playful, loving, kind, funny, dark. I just love it, and I loved drawing it.” Hopkins smiles, adding, “I love that one, too.”
Thinking about what drew Bateman and Hopkins together as collaborators, I come back to the close relationship they’d created as mother and daughter. Bateman felt, as a child, that no topic was off-limits and that her mother provided safety, security, good sense, good food, and home. In these books, they’re extending that deep sense of security and home to readers while also being truly honest and present to each other about their deepest fears and struggles—and finding ways to laugh along the way.
Bateman and her husband, both of whom work remotely, relocated to Cincinnati from Los Angeles in spring 2023. Her husband grew up in West Chester, and they appreciated the Midwest’s affordability after years in California. Soon after, Bateman found out she was pregnant with twins. She writes directly to them in the acknowledgements in Dumped: “To my babies: This book was drawn over the span of my pregnancy, and I’ll always remember it as such a joyful and happy experience. Also, I appreciate you arriving after I completed all the artwork. Your timing is impeccable.” She also writes to her mother, “Thank you for watching your brand-new grandchildren while I write these acknowledgements in the next room.”
Hopkins also moved from California to Cincinnati, mainly to help Bateman and her husband during the busy years of child-rearing. “Hallie couldn’t do this alone,” Hopkins says, and then she pauses and backtracks. “I mean, she could. But why would she want to?”


in photographs, some of the kids look as Anglo as Dennis the Menace.
The large majority of those interned were American citizens; many had never been to Japan or spoke Japanese. Guard towers and barbed wire kept prisoners in place. Overcrowding was common. Health care was nominal. One camp was at a racetrack, with prisoners living in horse stalls.
Shimizu and Yamaguchi met for the first time at Poston, the largest of this country’s 10 Japanese internment camps, with close to 18,000 prisoners, in Yuma, Arizona. Prisoners built irrigation systems and farmed
FOR IMMIGRANTS WITH FEW RESOURCes,afood enterprise offers a low bar for entry into owning a business. Yamaguchi had restaurant experience, and Shimizu could build just about anything: furniture, machines, electronics. At Poston, prisoners grew and cooked their own food, and the two men learned to make tofu.
Dan Shimizu, Yoshio’s grandson, says the children were never told exactly why tofu was the choice for the business. But, he conjectures,“it was something ready-made that they could slot into and work on together.”
With help from a local Quaker nonprofit, the Yamaguchis arrived in Ohio first, buying a modest duplex at 1275 Rutledge Avenue in Price Hill. When the Shimizu family arrived, they joined their friends, moving into the other half of the building. “They liked the German population in the neighborhood,” says Steve Yamaguchi, Ben’s grandson. “They felt they might have had some empathy with the Germans.”
The Soya founders enrolled their chil-
“THERE’S ALWAYS BEEN A PART OF ME HIDING MY JAPANESE-NESS,” SAYS BOB SHIMIZU. “IN MY EARLY CHILDHOOD I WAS MADE TO FEEL ASHAMED OF WHO I WAS.”
the land in extreme weather, with daytime temperatures reaching up to 115 degrees. A poem left behind by one Poston prisoner carries the lines We’re trapped like rats in a wired cage/ To fret and fume with impotent rage.
Bob Shimizu, now retired, recalls little about those early years. “I remember sneaking and catching someone’s koi out of their koi pond,” he says. “Not much more than that. My dad was bitter about how he was treated, but it was the era when no one talked about things.”
Families were informed that, when released, they shouldn’t return home. They’d have to disperse somewhere eastward to break up any concentration of Japanese Americans on the West Coast.
Despite the harsh treatment, the two families, among many released in 1943, continued to live in and love the United States—though not its racist policies.
dren in Carson Public School and got down to business. “They rented a dilapidated old place on Queen City Avenue,” says Bob Shimizu. “It was pretty run-down.”
Mung bean sprouts were the company’s first offering. Bean sprout salads were a popular menu item in the late 1940s at the luxurious Beverly Hills Supper Club and countless Northern Kentucky gambling dens. When Soya signed a contract as the primary supplier of sprouts to the Castellini Company, the food wholesaling giant, “they were thrilled,” says Steve Yamaguchi. “Castellini distributed to Kroger!”
In 1949, the families set their sights on another comestible: tofu. They purposebuilt a single-story white-brick factory at 2356 Wyoming Avenue, just off Queen City Avenue. Yoshio Shimizu handcrafted much of the tofu-making equipment, shelving, and furnishings.
Word about Soya spread quickly in the
Asian community. Before long, families were driving to it from all over the tri-state—and even further afield—to stock up on hard-tofind foods. The place became a de facto clubhouse for the Japanese community. Gossip was shared in the aisles.
In the 1970s and ’80s, the Furiya family of Versailles, Indiana, was one of many to make an hour-plus drive to Soya, keeping their purchases fresh in an iced-down cooler. “The bell above the metal door heralded our arrival,” recalls Linda Furiya in her evocative 2006 memoir Bento Box in the Heartland: My Japanese Childhood in Whitebread America (Seal Press). She recalls the smells and sounds of the shop that the family trekked to twice a month:
“A warm muskiness of boiling soybeans rising from the vats permeated the store. […] The proprietress, Mrs. Yamaguchi, peeked from behind the wall of paperwork on her desk. Pushing back her salt-and-pepper frizz of hair, she quickly shuffled from behind her heavy, cherrywood desk, muttering repeatedly in a husky voice, “Irrashimasen!” (Welcome!), and then busied herself pouring green tea into thick earthenware mugs. Her husband, Mr. Yamaguchi, was punching numbers into a calculator.”
Furiya’s brother Keven says the visits were as social as they were transactional. Their parents lingered as long as possible at Soya in order to chat in Japanese, something they didn’t have an opportunity to do at home. “My dad was an avid gardener,” he recalls. “He grew Japanese vegetables like napa, daikon, and Japanese eggplants. He would wrap some in newspaper and present them to the Soya owners. They were really appreciative, and it made him feel very important.”
Barbara Neumann, née Futamachi, remembers tagging along with her parents for weekly trips to Soya as a child. “Each week, we would get two or three blocks of tofu and one bag of bean sprouts,” she says. “My mother would buy cans of things like pickles. If I got lucky, I’d get a box of Botan candy with a toy in it. My friends were amazed that you could eat its rice-paper wrappers.”
Foodies (before that was a term) discovered Soya, too. “Japanese food was virtually nonexistent when Soya opened,” says Marilyn Harris, the prolific food writer and teacher. “People didn’t know what it was except
Girls’ Night Out
A Night to Shop in Madeira



















that you ate it with chopsticks. I bought their silken tofu, which was really good.”
Soya expanded its restaurant clients regionally. “Grandfather traveled and sold tofu to any Chinese restaurant he could find,” says Steve Yamaguchi. Bob Shimizu says bumps in business followed influxes of Asian immigrants to the area. “After the Korean war ended in 1953 there were a lot of Korean war brides who became customers. And after Vietnam ended in 1975, the same thing happened.”
All four kids helped out at the factory and store, from lugging 50-pound bags of rice up the staircases of customers’ homes to driving a refrigerated truck to commercial accounts. “When I was in grade school, maybe 10 or so, they’d make chow mein and sell to local groceries,” says Bob Shimizu. “Evelyn Yamaguchi [daughter of Ben and Alyce] and I would put it in quart-size containers. We would put the labels on the containers. We would have contests. She
always won because she was a couple years older and a lot faster.”
As teenagers, the four kids sometimes had to interrupt their busy social schedules to go water the thirsty bean sprouts, even at night. Yoshio Shimizu eventually alleviated that bothersome need by personally constructing an automated watering system.
Though the kids assisted here and there, they were never groomed to take over the business. Instead, they were urged to set their sights on careers that would take them beyond the limits of their own community.
They were intentionally not taught the Japanese language. The families celebrated American holidays, albeit with a big pot of rice on hand alongside the Thanksgiving and Christmas turkeys. All four kids excelled at Western Hills High School, where they were the only Asians, and then at the University of Cincinnati.
Their assimilation was successful, but at a cost the children would only later un-





derstand. “We met with virtually no prejudice or teasing or bullying,” says Bob Shimizu, who was a West High football star, class president his junior and senior year, and, along with the Yamaguchis, heavily involved in extracurriculars. Compared to the blatant racism their parents suffered in California after Pearl Harbor, “being in Cincinnati was amazing at how kind people were. They took you at face value.”
WERE THE SHIMIZU AND YAMAGUCHI kids’ super-achiever personalities a response to the hardships of their youth? Were they inspired by the diligence and sacrifices of their parents? Or was their shining, in part, because they had something to prove?
“There’s always been a part of me hiding my Japanese-ness and culture,” says Bob Shimizu.“That was the brutality of my early childhood, being made to feel ashamed of who I was. I later lived a bit of a charmed life and got things in life many other people
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didn’t have, but on the other hand I gave up things I probably shouldn’t have had to.”
Steve Yamaguchi laments a similar distance from his origins. “I missed out on the heritage component,” he says. “I’m diluted out.”
Celine Parreñas Shimizu, wife of Dan (and Bob’s daughter-in-law), says the families’ ambitions for their children were a strategy for survival. “They grew up with the narrative of Never get in trouble. Never even give a sense you’re doing anything wrong, because you represent your entire community and family.”
Yamaguchi père wanted his kids to go into law or medicine, “the bigger dream of higher education,” says Steve Yamaguchi. “So he pushed my dad [Ben Jr.] into the medical field.” Bob Shimizu, who also became a doctor, adds, “My father didn’t want my brother or me to have anything to do with working as hard and in such a difficult situation as he did.”
As such, the demise of Soya Foods ironically was the fruition of the parents’ American Dream: The kids became too successful to run a mom-and-pop shop. They had surpassed the success of their parents, at least in the parents’ eyes.
When Ben Jr. and his wife Nita bought out the Shimizus, who retired in the 1970s, it was Nita who took the helm of Soya. Never mind that she was a Kentucky-raised woman of German and English descent with forebears in the Daughters of the American Revolution. “It became her baby,” says Steve Yamaguchi. “She dove into our JapaneseAmerican heritage more than my dad!”
To share Japanese culture with elementary school kids, Nita visited classrooms to show off kimonos, chopsticks, and samples of Japanese foods. In the factory, she added alfalfa sprouts to Soya’s offerings, further increasing their appeal to a new category of retail clients: health food stores.
In the 1980s, two of Ben Jr. and Nita’s

four kids appeared on Mr. Rogers’ Neighborhood. “They sent a crew from New York to videotape the making of tofu,” says Steve Yamaguchi. “My older brother Rob did the process while I did some of the packing.”
Appearing on the national TV show was a sort of swan song for Soya. Nita and Ben Jr. divorced in the early 1990s, and the factory soon closed. Ben Jr. then invested in a completely different kind of food operation, buying the Cheviot steakhouse Maury’s Tiny Cove. His sons Paul and Ben III ran it from 1994 to 2009.
In 2000, the duplex on Rutledge Avenue finally left the hands of the Yamaguchi family, more than a half century after its purchase. The family members have dispersed, many of them making it back to California. The dream cooked up in Soya Foods was realized, but at personal costs that are often glossed over now with humor.
“How is tofu made?” I ask Bob Shimizu, who laughs and says, “I have no idea!”
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FAMILY TIES
CARMELO ’s celebrates familiar Italian American cuisine in Covington. —M. LEIGH HOOD
W

HILE CARMELO’S IS RELATIVELY NEW, YOU WON’T BE ABLE TO shake the sensation that you already know the place. Simple wood tables, warm red paint, and an eclectic mix of Italian music are underscored by friendly, welcoming service. You can’t be a stranger when everything feels so familiar—and that’s by design. Owners Billy Grise and Mitch Arens created the seven-month-old restaurant to honor family, history, and great comfort food.
The neighborhood has as much to offer the eatery as it has to offer the city. A great part of the food’s charm and quality stems from the local vendors from whom Grise and Arens source so many ingredients. The wine comes from Italy, but the gelato from Golden Gelato on Pike Street. The focaccia is by Family Thyme Kitchen, the coffee comes by way of Carabello’s in Newport, and the oxtail osso buco is crafted with meat from Berry Beef Farms in Kentucky’s Henry County.
Carmelo’s aims to bring people together over food, starting with its appetizer menu, or the “Shareables” section. Suffice it to say the dishes are sized accordingly. It’s a good idea to bring friends so you can tackle more than one. The shining lead is the mozzarella, a sophisticated answer to the soul’s eternal craving for cheese. It arrives in a bowl of seasoned olive oil alongside strips of grilled focaccia ready to support the main attraction. The bread is just chewy enough to do the mozz justice, giving you time to stop and savor each bite. Another unexpected knockout shareable is the cauliflower. The flash-fried vegetable is perfectly crisp outside yet somehow creamy inside, its sauce (anchovy, garlic, parsley, parmesan, lemon-
FYI
Carmelo’s 434 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 287-4700, eatatcarmelos.com
Hours
Dinner Tues–Thurs 4–9 p.m., Fri & Sat 4–10 p.m., and Sun 4–9 p.m.
Prices $7 (Tuscan kale shareable starter)–$42 (striped bass)
Credit Cards
All major
The Takeaway
No one leaves this friendly Italian American joint hungry.


garlic mayo, and almonds) building on the texture. A little cheesy and very savory, it’s complex and incredibly satisfying.
Every great Italian eatery needs the classic entrées, and Carmelo’s 101-Layer Lasagna serves a fresh take on a masterpiece. It contains, as claimed, 101 layers including pasta, cheese, and sauce. Because all the pasta at the restaurant is made in-house, the chefs control the thickness, making the tight stack possible. Served with layers running vertically, the meal weighs in at a full pound, and it’s also vegetarian; devoted carnivores may not even notice. The meatball shareable is the solution for diners craving a protein with their pasta. The appetizer consists of two enormous veal, pork, and beef meatballs that crumble with a little elbow grease into the perfect addendum for the lasagna.
While Carmelo’s lacks vegan-friendly fare, some of its most popular dishes are vegetarian. They charm plenty of omnivores into skipping the beef, too. The mushroom marsala is prime comfort food. Casarecce supports an umami-forward sauce based on an intense, house-made mushroom stock. Tender cremini, shitake, and oyster mushrooms maintain the same consistency as the pasta, and the shredded kale practically melts into the cheese. It’s well seasoned, with toasty breadcrumbs adding a delicate, crunchy contrast, and the full-bodied flavors give it incredible depth. You won’t have room for seconds, but you’ll want them.
When your soul calls for something savory, the oxtail ragu answers. The osso buco ragu is closer to a rich gravy than a sauce, incorporating subtle tomato and robust seasoning with the dish’s shredded meat and Parmesan. Imagine the love child of pulled pork

and a good steak—that’s the oxtail. The effect is almost like a stew that wanted to be a pasta sauce when it grew up, and the macaroni rigati supports its ambition.
You’d be forgiven for assuming Carmelo’s offers takeout if you glanced at the entrance in passing. Many guests leave with large paper bags full of tomorrow’s dinner. Portions are large, and the staff is ready to stow your leftovers the minute you raise the white flag. Remember, there’s no shame in surrender. If you aim for finishing your entire meal, you’ll never make it to dessert, and the end is as magical as the opening.
Tiramisu crowns the dessert menu, a decadent treat perfected over generations. Grise worked on the recipe with his grandfather, and the timeless devotion shows through in the house-made ladyfingers, rich cream, and Italian amaro coffee soak. It’s as rejuvenating as an after-dinner coffee and has an excellent bittersweet finish.
Speaking of after-dinner coffee, Carmelo’s servers shared a secret with us. Although not strictly on the menu, they’re happy to make an affogato. It’s a perfect excuse to have a sneaky second dessert, and it’s a lighter alternative for anyone who challenged the lasagna. Naturally, it complements the tiramisu.
One of the subtlest hints to Carmelo’s humor and history hides in the dessert menu. The Espresso Martini boasts a special, housemade hazelnut liqueur (made with New Make rye whiskey from New Riff Distillery), and it’s a delicious inside joke. Carmelo Caserta, Billy Grise’s great-grandfather and the restaurant’s namesake, originally worked on his family’s hazelnut farm in Sicily. Caserta came to America after he became fed up with the business, so Billy Grise and the little restaurant in Covington are only with us thanks to the humble nut. The tale is the final garnish to enjoy with the end of your meal.

Miami Vices
FLAMINGO DRIVE BAR AND LOUNGE MIGHT NOT SEEM LIKE A NATURAL FIT FOR Milford’s quaint Main Street—it’s a little loud, plenty boozy, and very pink—but it’s essentially an homage to Paul and Neil Barraco’s eclectic childhood in The Magic City. The result is vibey, with Neil’s design skills showcased throughout (he served as general contractor) through rattan seating, terrazzo bar top, cozy couches, and kitschy seaside decor. Make sure to arrive thirsty as the bar menu is stacked with rum-based cocktails like the Harrison’s Thrasher, which brings tropical heat with white and dark rum, jalapeño Campari, pineapple, lime, and tiki bitters. Or keep cool with a refreshingly minty coconut mojito. Yucca fries, crispy and served with guava mayo, make a great starter, but the appetizer menu also offers other delicacies like broccoli cheese croquettes and chicken liver mousse.
HALEY STEWART

THE PASTRY AND CATERING chef for Moerlein Lager House was recently a semifinalist in Buddy “Cake Boss” Valastro’s “The Greatest Baker” contest.
How did you end up baking? I went to school at St. Louis University on an athletic scholarship and had no intention of going to culinary school, but I got really sick. I came home and my parents suggested that I stay and learn how to cook. I had no other thoughts about what I wanted to do and thought that maybe learning how to cook could help my health at the same time.
How did your work at the Moerlein Lager House lead you to a national baking competition? I participated in Cincinnati Magazine’s Great Cincinnati Bake-Off and won. After that, I was randomly reached out to by somebody from “The Greatest Baker” suggesting that I apply. I started promoting it on my social media and Moerlein got behind me and started posting. It was really overwhelming how many people that I didn’t even know were voting for me.
The fried jerk chicken is two crispy smoked thighs with a pickled apple pikliz and cinnamon hot sauce, all served on Cuban newspaper plating paper. You can’t go wrong with the Cuban sandwich—Berkwood pork and salami with brown butter, a Jarlsberg cheese spread, and spicy pickles—or the savory chorizo fritta burger with guava mayo and fried sweet potato. Additionally, daily specials allow Paul to highlight in-season produce from local farms, creative “footnotes” to the Barracos’ ever-evolving story. —RODNEY WILSON
Flamingo Drive Bar and Lounge, 227 Main St., Milford, (513) 444-4190, flamingodrivelounge. com
What’s next in your baking culinary career? Since the baking competition ended, I’ve really leaned into the social media side of things. I’m on Instagram (@haleychapline) and TikTok (@haleycstewart), posting a lot of recipes and trying to make videos of different local places that I visit every week and critique a little bit. I’ve really enjoyed getting out and making an effort to try new things because Cincinnati always has something new going on.
– EMMA BALCOM
Read a longer interview with Haley at cincinnatimagazine.com


















BOOZE PROOF
“SOBER-CURIOUS”
EXPANDS ITS NONALCOHOLIC REACH AT NIL BOTTLE SHOP. —BRIANNA CONNOCK


We all know the basic options for nondrinkers: soda, sparkling water, tea, or maybe a juice-based mocktail or two at the bottom of a cocktail menu. What if there was something more curated for those who want to enjoy a special drink, sans alcohol? Enter the NIL Bottle Shop, Cincinnati’s first exclusively nonalcoholic retail store.
While it’s a small space located in Painted Tree Boutiques in Symmes Township, owner Brady Mescher has big plans. He started NIL Distributing in November after noticing nonalcoholic options expanding in other cities and liquor distributors not giving enough attention to their zero-proof products.
“[My wife and I] looked around and saw that no one had picked up on this trend,” he says. “We knew the void had to be filled. There are many reasons people are drinking less—healthier lifestyles, pregnancies, work schedules, being more present and focused at parties and events. Providing options that mimic full proof alternatives gives people a feeling of inclusion.”
In order to get alcohol-free beverages into the hands of the “sophisticated sobercurious,” Mescher opened the NIL Bottle Shop a month later— just in time for “Dry January.” He hoped to create a space where people could discover unique nonalcoholic options for any occasion.
“We thought Painted Tree would be a perfect spot to establish a ‘proof of concept,’

and we were right,” says Mescher, who noted that sales in the first month exceeded their goals.
The storefront offers a variety of handpicked products including N/A wines, drinks (like the Espresso Martini by Spiritless, one of Mescher’s favorites), craft spirits, and mocktails, as well as mixers.
While no one staffs
the bottle shop, it’s clear that its contents are thoughtfully stocked on a regular basis, and there are informative signs with QR codes to answer questions about the products. To connect with customers, Mescher hopes to host tasting events and take NIL Distributing on the road to events around Cincinnati.

The “sober-curious” movement is growing in the U.S. as individuals—particularly young adults— are reevaluating their drinking habits and its effects on their health.


















OH, FUDGE
These fudge makers face off for confectionary supremacy.
—AIESHA D. LITTLE
URANUS FUDGE FACTORY

ORIGIN STORY










FLAVORS AVAILABLE
While Uranus makes 18 fudge flavors on location daily, there are an additional 16 flavors available through the website.
MOST POPULAR FLAVORS
Fan favorites include chocolate pecan, toffee bar, blueberry cheesecake, and dark chocolate.
FIFTY FLAVORS FUDGE SHOPPE
ORIGIN STORY

Starting with a family recipe passed down three generations, Jenn Morgan (chief fudging officer) launched her business with three flavors in 2020 with the goal of eventually offering 50.
FLAVORS AVAILABLE
In 2024, Fifty Flavors created 250 flavors, including key lime pie, caramel toffee, and strawberry champagne.


MOST POPULAR FLAVORS
Fan favorites include banana pudding, birthday cake, blue ice cream, and turtle.


















WHAT ELSE?
Uranus is also a general store with magnets, clothing, and other items extolling the place’s pun-filled nature. (Our favorite? The T-shirt that says “Straight Outta Uranus.”)
WHERE TO GET IT
Uranus’s newest location in Richmond, Indiana, which opened in December, is about an hour and 30 minutes from downtown Cincinnati.


WHAT ELSE?
Fifty Flavors has yet to get in the merch game.
WHERE TO GET IT
You can find Fifty Flavors at Bea’s Flowers in Mason, or pre-order for Saturday pickup at its West Chester location. You can also catch Morgan at events and festivals around town, like The OFF Market at Summit Park in Blue Ash on May 10.
DINING GUIDE
CINCINNATI MAGAZINE’S dining guide is compiled by our editors as a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a restaurant listing. The editors may add or delete restaurants based on their judgment. Because of space limitations, all
of the guide’s restaurants may not be included. Many restaurants have changing seasonal menus; dishes listed here are examples of the type of cuisine available and may not be on the menu when you visit.
To update listings, e-mail: cmletters@cincinnati magazine.com
AMERICAN
BROWN DOG CAFÉ
If you haven’t had a plate of Shawn McCoy’s design set in front of you, it’s about time. Many of the menu’s dishes show his knack for the plate as a palette. A trio of duck breast, lamb chop, and demi haute chocolate boar is a standout. The eye for detail and contrasts of colors and textures belongs to someone who cares for food.
1000 Summit Place, Blue Ash, (513) 794-1610, thebrowndogcafe.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sat. MCC, DS. $$$
COZY’S CAFÉ & PUB
On a visit to England, Jan Collins discovered the “cozy” atmosphere of London restaurants built in historic houses. She brought that warm, comfortable feeling back to the United States in opening Cozy’s. Though the atmosphere in the restaurant is reminiscent of Collins’s London travels, the food remains proudly American. The produce in virtually every dish is fresh, seasonal, and flavorful. The braised short rib stands out with its cheesy grits and haystack onions along with a portion of tender meat. And when it comes down to the classics, from the biscuits that open the meal to the carrot cake at the end, Cozy’s does it right.
6440 Cincinnati Dayton Rd., Liberty Twp., (513) 644-9365, cozyscafeandpub.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$$
EMBERS
The menu here is built for celebration: poshly priced steak and sushi selections are meant to suit every special occasion. Appetizers are both classic (shrimp cocktail) and Asian-inspired (shrimp tempura); fashionable ingredients are name-checked (micro-greens and truffles); a prominent sushi section (nigiri, sashimi, and rolls) precedes a list of archetypal salads; Kobe beef on sushi rolls sidles up to steaks of prime; non-steak entrées (Chilean sea bass or Dover sole with haricots verts and almondine) make for high-style alternative selections. Talk about a party.
8170 Montgomery Rd., Madeira, (513) 984-
HELLO, DOLLY
In March, Big Boy Restaurant Group opened three Dolly’s Burgers and Shakes restaurants in old Frisch’s locations in Blue Ash, Anderson Township, and Miamisburg. Tamer Afr, CEO of the Michigan-based restaurant chain, says he wants to open Dolly’s in 55 former Frisch’s locations by June.
8090, embersrestaurant.com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$$$
GREYHOUND TAVERN
Back in the streetcar days, this roughly 100-yearold roadhouse was at the end of the Dixie Highway line, where the cars turned around to head north. The place was called the Dixie Tea Room then, and they served ice cream. The fried chicken came along in the 1930s, and they’re still dishing it up today. Families and regulars alike pile in on Mondays and Tuesdays for the fried chicken special. While the juicy (never greasy) chicken with its lightly seasoned, crisp coating is the star, the side dishes—homemade biscuits, coleslaw, green beans, mashed potatoes, and gravy—will make you ask for seconds. Call ahead no matter what night you choose: There’s bound to be a crowd. Not in the mood for chicken? Choose from steaks, seafood, sandwiches, and comfort food options that include meatloaf and a Kentucky Hot Brown. Or just try the onion rings. You’ll wonder where onions that big come from.
2500 Dixie Highway, Ft. Mitchell, (859) 3313767, greyhoundtavern.com. Lunch and dinner seven days, brunch Sun. MCC, DS. $$
THE NORTHSTAR CAFÉ
In Northstar’s first outpost beyond the Greater Columbus area, the space itself reflects the ethos of the food: warm and comfortable, but still modern and fresh. The dinner and cocktail menus are fab, as is the large bar. But breakfast is worth waking up early for. Take the mushroom frittata, made with meaty mushrooms, caramelized sweet onions, and Gruyère. The portions are no joke—that frittata comes with breakfast potatoes and arugula—yet it doesn’t feel gluttonous or excessive. In large part that’s due to the freshness (e.g., the sausage made in-house daily) and the abundance of healthy options. One of our favorites: the shooting star juice, a balanced blend of carrot, ginger, orange, and lemon.
7610 Sloan Way, Liberty Township, (513) 759-0033, thenorthstarcafe.com. Breakfast and dinner seven days, lunch Mon–Fri, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. No cash. $
QUATMAN CAFÉ
The quintessential neighborhood dive, Quatman’s sits in the shadow of the Our Lady of the Holy Spirit
Center, serving up a classic bar burger. Look elsewhere if you like your burger with exotic toppings: This half-pound of grilled beef is served with lettuce, tomato, onion, and pickle. Sometimes cheese. The no-frills theme is straightforward and appealing. A menu of standard sandwich fare and smooth mock turtle soup; beer on tap or soda in cans (no wine or liquor); and plenty of kitsch is served daily. Peppered with regulars, families, and political discussions, Quatman’s is far from fancy, but it’s fun, fast, and delicious. 2434 Quatman Ave., Norwood, (513) 7314370; 224 W. Main St., Mason, (513) 229-0222, quatmancafe.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS, MCC. $
THE SCHOOLHOUSE RESTAURANT
An old flag stands in one corner and pictures of Abe Lincoln and the first George W. hang on the wall of this Civil War–era schoolhouse. The daily menu of familiar Midwestern comfort fare is written in letter-perfect cursive on the original chalkboard. Once you order from a woman who bears an uncanny resemblance to your high school lunch lady, the elevated lazy Susan in the center of the table begins to fill up with individual bowls and baskets of cornbread, slaw, salad, mashed potatoes, chicken gravy, and vegetables. The deal here is quantity. More mashed potatoes with your fried chicken? More cornbread with your baked ham? You don’t even have to raise your hand. 8031 Glendale-Milford Rd., Camp Dennison, (513) 831-5753, theschoolhousecincinnati.com. Lunch Thurs–Fri, dinner Thurs–Sun. MCC, DS. $$
SOUL SECRETS
You no longer need an event to celebrate with a fish fry. At Candice Holloway’s restaurant, Soul Secrets, fried chicken and fish are always on the menu. Servers wearing T-shirts that read “my ancestors sent me” introduce guests to a trim menu full of the best soul food. You can’t go wrong with the fried fish platters. The whiting is good, but the catfish is divine. The cornmeal breading is so perfectly seasoned you won’t need salt, and the light crunch it adds doesn’t hide the star of the show. So soft it’s nearly fluffy, the catfish melts in your mouth. Each catfish platter delivers two enormous pieces of fish along with two sides and a cornbread muffin that may be the best in Cincin-
nati. This is the kind of meal you take home with you—not just in your heart but in a box—because chances are low you’ll conquer all the fish and sides in one go.
1434 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 721-7685, soulsecretscincy.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $
SUGAR N’ SPICE
This Paddock Hills diner, with other locations in Over-theRhine and Blue Ash, has been dishing up wispy-thin pancakes and football-sized omelettes to Cincinnatians since FDR was signing new deals. Breakfast and lunch offerings mix old-hat classics like steak and eggs, corned beef hash, and basic burgers with funky iterations that draw on ethnic ingredients such as chorizo and tzatziki. Get here early if you don’t want to stand in line.
4381 Reading Rd., Paddock Hills, (513) 242-3521; 1203 Sycamore St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 762-0390; 10275 Summit Pkwy., Blue Ash, (513) 447-6453, eatsugarnspice. com. Breakfast and lunch seven days. MCC. $
TRIO
Trio is nothing if not a crowd-pleaser. Whether you’re in the mood for a California-style pizza or filet mignon (with a baked potato and compound herb butter), the menu is broad enough to offer something for everyone. It may lack a cohesive point of view, but with the number of regulars who come in seven nights a week, variety is Trio’s ace in the hole. A simple Margherita pizza with Roma tomatoes, basil, Parmesan, and mozzarella delivered a fine balance of crunchy crust, soft cheese, and sweet, roasted tomatoes. Paired with a glass of pinot noir, it made a perfect light meal. The service is friendly enough for a casual neighborhood joint but comes with white tablecloth attentiveness and knowledge. Combine that with the consistency in the kitchen, and Trio is a safe bet.
7565 Kenwood Rd., Kenwood, (513) 984-1905, triobistro.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DC. $$
BARBECUE
BEE’S BARBEQUE
You’ll want to get to Bee’s early if you want to avoid the line of friendly regulars. The restaurant’s smoker churns out a variety of meats—including brisket, pulled pork, ribs, turkey breast, and two kinds of sausage—so it’s easy to see why they keep coming back. If you enjoy the spicy grease that oozes out of a good chorizo, you’ll love the Cincinnati Hot Link, which tastes like the delicious love child of a chorizo and a hot mett. Word to the wise: Bee’s opens at 11 a.m. and closes when they run out of meat. Understandably, this doesn’t take long. 5910 Chandler St., Madisonville, (513) 561-2337. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat; 1403 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 721-2337, beesbarbecue.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Sun. MCC. $
ELI’S BBQ
Elias Leisring started building his pulled pork reputation under canopies at Findlay Market and Fountain Square in 2011. Leisring’s proper little ’cue shack along the river serves up ribs that are speaking-in-tongues good, some of the zazziest jalapeño cheese grits north of the MasonDixon line, and browned mashed potatoes that would make any short-order cook diner-proud. The small no-frills restaurant—packed cheek-by-jowl most nights—feels like it’s been there a lifetime, with customers dropping vinyl on the turntable, dogs romping in the side yard, and picnic tables crowded with diners. The hooch is bring-your-own, and the barbecue is bona fide.
3313 Riverside Dr., East End, (513) 533-1957; 133 West Elder St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 533-1957, ext. 2, elisbarbeque.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $
WALT’S HITCHING POST
A Northern Kentucky institution returns. Roughly 750 pounds of ribs per week are pit-fired in a small building in
front of the restaurant, with a smaller dedicated smoker out back for brisket and chicken. Walt’s ribs begin with several hours in the smokehouse and then are quick-seared at the time of service. This hybrid method takes advantage of the leaner nature of the baby-back ribs they prefer to use. Each rib had a just-right tooth to it where soft flesh peeled away from the bone. One hidden treasure: Walt’s homemade tomato and garlic dressing. Slightly thicker than a vinaigrette yet unwilling to overwhelm a plate of greens, the two key elements play well together.
3300 Madison Pke., Ft. Wright, (859) 360-2222, waltshitchingpost.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$
CAJUN/ CARIBBEAN
BREWRIVER CREOLE
More than 800 miles from New Orleans, this may be as close as you can get to the real deal here in your own backyard. The menu fully leans into Chef Michael Shields’s penchant for cuisine from the Crescent City. His six years of training under NOLA’s own Emeril Lagasse comes through in a scratch kitchen menu that spans a range of the city’s classics. The enormous shrimp and oyster po’boys—the former protein fried in a light and crispy beer batter and the latter in a hearty cornmeal breading—are served on fluffy French bread loaves and dressed with lightly spicy rémoulades. The jambalaya packs all the heat of a late summer day in the French Quarter without masking a hint of its satisfying flavors. Paired with a Sazerac and nightly live jazz, you may just feel tempted to start a second line.
4632 Eastern Ave., Linwood, (513) 861-2484, brewrivercreolekitchen.com. Dinner Tues–Sun, brunch and lunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $
SWAMPWATER GRILL
At first blush, this place is a dive where homesick Cajuns can find a good pile of jambalaya. But thoughtful details like draft Abita Root Beer and char-grilled Gulf Coast oysters on the half shell signal its ambition. Bayou standards like jambalaya, gumbo, and fried seafood also make an appearance. But the extensive menu also features amped-up pubstyle items for those who may be squeamish about crawfish tails (which can be added to just about anything on the menu). You’ll also find a roundup of oyster, shrimp, catfish, and alligator po’boys, as well as a selection of hardwoodsmoked meats.
3742 Kellogg Ave., East End, (513) 834-7067, swampwatergrill.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Sun, brunch Sat & Sun. V, MC, DS, AMEX. $$
KNOTTY PINE ON THE BAYOU
The Pine serves some of the best Louisiana home-style food you’ll find this far north of New Orleans. Taste the fried catfish filets with their peppery crust, or the garlic sauteed shrimp with smoky greens on the side, and you’ll understand why it’s called soul food. Between March and June, it’s crawfish season. Get them boiled and heaped high on a platter or in a superb crawfish etouffee. But the rockin’ gumbo—a thick, murky brew of andouille sausage, chicken, and vegetables—serves the best roundhouse punch all year round. As soon as you inhale the bouquet and take that first bite, you realize why Cajun-style food is considered a high art form and a serious pleasure. And you’ll start planning your return trip.
6302 Licking Pke., Cold Spring, (859) 781-2200, theknottypineonthebayou.com. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$
CHINESE
AMERASIA
A sense of energetic fun defines this tiny Chinese spot with a robust beer list. The glossy paper menu depicts Master Chef Rich Chu as a “Kung Food” master fighting the evil fast-food villain with dishes like “fly rice,” “Brocco-Lee,” and “Big Bird’s Nest.” Freshness rules. Potstickers, dumplings, and
wontons are hand shaped. The Dragon’s Breath wontons will invade your dreams. Seasoned ground pork, onion, and cilantro meatballs are wrapped in egg dough, wok simmered, and topped with thick, spicy red pepper sauce and fresh cilantro. Noodles are clearly Chef Chu’s specialty, with zonxon (a tangle of thin noodles, finely chopped pork, and mushrooms cloaked in spicy dark sauce and crowned with peanuts and cilantro) and Matt Chu’s Special (shaved rice noodles, fried chicken, and seasonal vegetables in gingery white sauce) topping the menu’s flavor charts. 521 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 261-6121, kungfood. online. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Sat. MCC. $
GREAT TANG
Although the (24-page!) menu features classic dishes in every style, the specialty at Great Tang is the refined coastal cuisine of Zhejiang. If you like spice, you can get still the Sichuanese and Hunanese classics. One dish will hint at the surprises in store for people who are mainly used to Chinese takeout: the lovely Xian cold noodle. The dish is exquisitely layered: the creamy and nutty undertone of sesame paste, mixed with notes of tang and spice, topped with the bright pop of cilantro. The combination of textures is also delightful, with crunches of cucumber and sprouted mung and the softness of the flat noodles. And that tofu! It was wonderfully meaty, with dense layers, substantial and satisfying as a counterpart to the noodles. Be as brave as you are in the mood to be. Ask for some suggestions and prepare to be astonished.
7340 Kingsgate Way, West Chester, (513) 847-6097, greattangohio.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Mon, dim sum Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$
ORIENTAL WOK
When Mike and Helen Wong opened Oriental Wok in 1977, the couple wanted to recreate the glamor and refinement of the Hong Kong-Cantonese cuisine they knew. Today, locals and expats alike enjoy authentic Chinese and Chinese-American dishes in dining rooms reminiscent of Beijing. Beyond the elephant tusk entryway and fish ponds and fountains is the warmth and hospitality of the Wong family, service on par with the finest establishments, and very, very good food. Best are the fresh fish: salmon, grouper and sea bass steamed, grilled or fried in a wok, needing little more than the ginger-green onion sauce that accompanies them. Oriental Wok is the tri-state’s longest-running family-owned Chinese restaurant for a reason.
317 Buttermilk Pke., Ft. Mitchell, (859) 331-3000; 2444 Madison Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 871-6888, orientalwok. com. Lunch Mon–Fri (Ft. Mitchell; buffet Sun 11–2:30), lunch Tues–Sat (Hyde Park), dinner Mon–Sat (Ft. Mitchell) dinner Tues–Sun (Hyde Park). MCC. $$
THE PACIFIC KITCHEN
The monster of a menu can be dizzying. Ease in with some top-notch Korean Wings. These slightly bubbly, shatter-crisp wings are painted with a thin gochujang chili sauce (a foil to the fat). It takes 24 hours to prep the Cantonese duck, between a honey-vinegar brine to dry the skin, a marinade of star anise, bean paste, and soy within the re-sealed cavity, and the crispy convection oven finish. Dolsot bibimbap had plenty of crispy rice at the bottom of the stone bowl, and the accompanying banchan were soothing yet flavorful. Even dishes like a Malaysian goat stew resonated with rich, original flavors.
8300 Market Place Lane, Montgomery, (513) 898-1833, thepacific.kitchen. Lunch and dinner Mon & Wed–Sun, dim sum lunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$
SICHUAN BISTRO
Like many Chinese restaurants that cater to both mainstream American and Chinese palates, this strip mall gem uses two menus. The real story here is found in dishes of pungent multi-layered flavors that set your mouth ablaze with fermented peppers and fresh chilies and then just as quickly cool it down with the devilish, numbing sensation of hua jiao, Sichuan pepper. Its numbing effect is subtle at first: appetizers of cold sliced beef and tripe, as well as slices of pork belly with a profusion of minced garlic, lean toward the hot and sweet; mapo tofu freckled with tiny fermented black beans and scallions, and pork with pickled red peppers and strips of ginger root, progress from sweet to pungent to hot to salty—in that order. Alternated with cooling dishes—nibbles of rice, a verdant mound of
baby bok choy stir-fried with a shovelful of garlic, refreshing spinach wilted in ginger sauce, a simply sensational tea-smoked duck—the effect is momentarily tempered.
7888 S. Mason Montgomery Rd., Mason, (513) 770-3123, sichuanbistro.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$
UNCLE YIP’S
Long before sushi somehow un-disgusted itself to the Western World, China had houses of dim sum. Uncle Yip’s valiantly upholds that tradition in Evendale. This is a traditional dim sum house with all manner of exotic dumplings, including shark fin or beef tripe with ginger and onion. As for the seafood part of the restaurant’s full name, Uncle Yip has most everything the sea has to offer, from lobster to mussels. The menu has more than 160 items, so you’ll find a range of favorites, from moo goo gai pan to rock salt frog legs.
10736 Reading Rd., Evendale, (513) 733-8484, uncleyips.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, discount for cash. $$
ECLECTIC
ALCOVE
Alcove lives up to its name, the embodiment of a green oasis at the corner of Vine and 14th streets. A lot of care goes into the space’s bright, floral design—it features more than 300 square feet of plant-covered “living walls,” which are pruned by their creator, Urban Blooms, on a weekly basis. Equal care and attention went goes into Alcove’s the seasonal farm-to-table menu. It’s an uncomplicated affair featuring exceptional-butapproachable dishes. As one might expect from a restaurant where plants cover most of the walls, vegetables are done very well here. The simple, clean pear and quark salad stands out as do the stuffed mushrooms. Like the produce, much of the meat is sourced from local and regional farms (for instance, the “Denver Cut” of steak— a lean cut, taken from the shoulder—comes from Sakura Farms in nearby Westerville, Ohio). Among other local vendors, Rich Life Farms, Urban Stead Cheese, and Eli Settler (a.k.a. “Eli the Farmer”) all contribute to Alcove’s menu. This is a restaurant that takes sustainability seriously, and sustainability has a funny way of going hand-in-hand with quality. 1410 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 371-5700, madtree.com/locations/alcove-bar-restaurant. Brunch Fri–Sun, dinner seven days. MCC. $$
ATWOOD OYSTER HOUSE
While Atwood has done an excellent job of working closely with coastal purveyors to curate a focused but eclectic selection of oysters, the rest of its menu consists of southern coastal cuisine prepared with rigorous French technique. The wild-caught fish is as fresh and deliberately sourced as the eponymous oysters, and grilled shrimp with Calabrian chili and arugula. The modern, clean-lined space, adorned with busts and oil paintings (curated with the help of neighborhood artist Alex Frank) matches the elegant food. It’s stately without being stuffy; it somehow feels both timeless and hip. Like everything else at Atwood, it’s the result of a delicate, highly successful balancing act.
1220 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 246-4256, atwoodoysterhouse.com. Dinner Wed–Sun. MCC. $$
Top 10 BOCA
With its grand staircase, chandelier, and floor-to-ceiling draperies, Boca has an atmosphere of grandeur and refinement. There is a sense of drama not only in the decor but in everything it serves. In some dishes, there is a painterly sense of contrast and surprise, like the
maple tuile served with the maple mascarpone cheesecake. In others, there is a dramatic suspense, like the whole egg yolk quivering in the center of the beef tartare waiting to be broken. While staying mostly grounded in the fundamentals of Italian and French cuisine, Boca has an air of international sophistication that sets its food apart. The hamachi crudo, an old standby on the menu, takes Japanese flavors and gives them new dimensions with grapefruit suprêmes and slivers of shishito pepper. This is food of extraordinary creativity and flair.
114 E. Sixth St., downtown, (513) 542-2022, bocacincinnati.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS. $$$
Top 10 BOUQUET RESTAURANT
Normally diners aren’t pleased when a restaurant runs out of something. At Bouquet, though, surprise changes to the menu are simply a sign of integrity. The restaurant is serious about using seasonal ingredients, and if the figs have run out or there is no more chicken from a local farm, so be it. The flavors at Bouquet are about doing justice to what’s available. Preparations are unfussy, complexity coming from within the vegetables and proteins themselves. A spring salad—wonderfully fresh and vibrant, so you know the strawberries included have just come off a nearby vine—is dressed with candy-striped beets, jerk-seasoned pepitas and whipped goat cheese. This determination to make something delicious out of what’s on hand, to embrace limitations, gives the food at Bouquet a rustic, soulful quality.
519 Main St., Covington, (859) 491-7777, bouquetbistro.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DS. $$
CROWN REPUBLIC GASTROPUB
What makes Crown Republic special isn’t its handful of outstanding dishes. It’s the place’s sheer consistency. No single dish is absolutely mindblowing or completely original, but when almost everything that comes out is genuinely tasty, the service is always friendly and attentive, and (stop the presses!) the bill is quite a bit less than you expected, you sit up and pay attention. The crab and avocado toast, served on toasted bread with lime juice and slivers of pickled Fresno chiles, is a prime example of what makes Crown Republic tick. The cocktails are equally unfussy and good, like the Tequila Honey Bee, made with tequila reposado, honey thyme syrup, lemon, bitters, and mezcal rinse, which adds a smoky kick.
720 Sycamore St., downtown, (513) 246-4272, crownrepublicgastropub.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Sun. Brunch Sat & Sun. V, MC, DS, AMEX. $$
THE GREEN LINE KITCHEN & COCKTAILS
Named after the historic trolley line that used to run between Cincinnati and Northern Kentucky, this restaurant combines quality American food with charm and history. Meals feel like homemade Sunday dinners, and with a menu bursting with steaks, seafood, and pasta, there’s something to make everyone’s weekend. The half-roasted chicken appears exactly as promised, with a breast, wing, thigh, and drumstick cooked as one large piece. Sweet, tender vegetables contrast perfectly with the rich, salty au jus, and cheesy grits elevate bites of chicken or carrot with savory spices and texture. On the cocktails side, even the designated driver has options beyond iced tea. Nonalcoholic choices range from beer and wine to original mocktails, like the Strawberry Ginger (strawberry puree, fresh strawberries, fresh basil, and ginger beer).
425 N. Ft. Thomas Ave., Ft. Thomas, (859) 757-4580, greenlinerestaurant.com. Dinner Tues-Sat, brunch Sun.
MAPLEWOOD KITCHEN
At Maplewood, you order at the counter, then find a table, and a server will deliver what you’ve selected. There’s no cohesive cuisine, rather, the menu takes its cue from all corners of the globe: chilaquiles, guajillo chicken are all represented, along with the satisfying Maplewood hash with goetta and local mushrooms. Brunch is available all day so try the light lemon ricotta pancakes or the shakshuka.
525 Race St., downtown, (513) 421-2100, maplewoodkitchenandbar.com. Breakfast and lunch seven days. MCC. $$
NICHOLSON’S
To remind local diners that they were here before those young dog-toting punks with their exposed brick and crafty ales in Over-the-Rhine, Nicholson’s branded themselves Cincinnati’s “first and finest gastropub,” and revamped the menu to include plenty of snacks and small plates for grazing, and not-quite-brawny, straightforward sandwiches and main dishes. Try the Faroe Island salmon, a bowl of cock-a-leekie soup, or check out the shepherd’s or BBQ bacon-style burgers or the turkey reuben with Russian dressing. And the bar’s clubby intimacy makes it easy to belly up and enjoy the impressive collection of single malts or a Scottish ale.
625 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 564-9111, nicholsonspub.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $$
THE QUARTER BISTRO
Quarter Bistro has multiple personalities: one part clubby neighborhood joint, one part dinner and a movie with a dash of lusty romance. The Bistro Burger, a half-pound of black Angus beef, is seasoned but not overly so, with a sturdy-butnot-too-chewy bun. The 18-hour short ribs are the star, and reason enough to skip the movie next door. Braised into a flavor bomb of meat candy, it’s served with pappardelle pasta, roasted vegetables, and onion straws. With the no-lip service, The Quarter Bistro could be well on the way to making middle age look sexy.
6904 Wooster Pke., Mariemont, (513) 2715400, qbcincy.com. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$
20 BRIX
This restaurant mixes Mediterranean influences with homespun choices, and he comes up with some marvelous food. Lamb meatballs with melted onions and romesco sauce are sweet and peppery, and their simplicity partners well with a lush Zinfandel. The excellent wine list, arranged by flavor profiles within the varietals, features dozens of varieties by the glass in fiveounce or two-ounce pours, which makes it easy to try several.
101 Main St., Milford, (513) 831-2749, 20brix. com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS, DC. $$
TERANGA
West African cuisine consists of mostly simple, home-style dishes of stews and grilled lamb with just enough of the exotic to offer a glimpse of another culture. Be prepared for a few stimulating sights and flavors that warm from within. An entire grilled tilapia—head and all—in a peppery citrus marinade and served on plantains with a side of Dijon-coated cooked onions is interesting enough to pique foodie interest without overwhelming the moderate eater. Stews of lamb or chicken with vegetables and rice are a milder bet, and Moroccan-style couscous with vegetables and mustard sauce accompanies most items. The dining room atmosphere is extremely modest with most of the action coming from the constant stream of carryout orders.
8438 Vine St., Hartwell, (513) 821-1300, terangacinci.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $
DEAN TAKEOVER
OTR spice stalwart Dean’s Mediterranean Imports is opening a second location in Northside this summer. The 1,700-squarefoot storefront will have an indoor seating area and a patio with an additional 25 seats. The store will occupy the first floor of the NEST (Northsiders Engaged in Sustainable Transformation) development located at 4024 Hamilton Ave. mediterranean importscincinnati.net
YUCA
Yuca is in The Fairfield’s former space, retaining much of the same modern, airy, and inviting café vibes with a neighborhood feel, but boasting a menu certainly worth a commute. In the mood for a hearty breakfast? Indulge in the Fat Zach, a heaping corn gordita packed to the brim with chicken, chorizo, and scrambled egg, served with avocado, pineapple pico, and sweet and spicy potatoes. There’s a full drink menu ranging from coffee to Bloody Marys—or a selection of margaritas and palomas if you’re looking to stick around.
700 Fairfield Ave., Bellevue, (859) 360-0110, yucabycedar.com. Breakfast and lunch Tues–Sun. MCC. $$
FRENCH
CHEZ RENÉE FRENCH BISTROT
Based on American stereotypes of French food—that it’s elaborate, elitist, and expensive—one might expect Chez Renée to fall on the chichi side. Instead, it’s elegant in an everyday way, operating on the principle that it is better to excel at simplicity than to badly execute something complicated. The formula is not complex: Simple ingredients, generally fresh and from nearby, prepared without much fuss. Warmed brie is served with thyme, almonds, fruit, and bread, and the chicken risotto is served with creamy mushrooms. This is solid, tasty food, both approachable and well-executed. It’s well on its way to becoming, as a good
bistrot should be, a neighborhood institution. 233 Main St., Milford, (513) 428-0454, chezreneefrenchbistrot.com. Lunch Fri & Sat, dinner Wed–Sat. MCC. $$
COLETTE
At his new “mostly French” restaurant Colette, which occupies the former Zula space across from Washington Park, Chef Danny Combs has built a more laid-back home for his focused, pristine cooking. While there is classic bistro fare, like steak frites, on the concentrated menu, there are also less familiar but equally classic French dishes, like Brandade de Morue (a silky emulsion of whipped salt cod served with rustic bread) and the savory puff pastry known as Vol-au-Vent. One can turn to the extensive drink menu (also “mostly French”) to find a wine or cocktail to go with any dish on offer. Like Zula, Colette would function just fine as a wine and cocktail bar, though we can’t imagine coming to a place this good and not eating something.
1400 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 381-1018, coletteotr.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DC. $$
FRENCH CRUST
Located in the old Globe Furniture building at the corner of Elm and Elder Streets, this Jean-Robert de Cavel creation offers French fare in the heart of Over-the-Rhine. Swing by for lunch and have a quiche Lorraine (French Crust’s quiches are unrivaled in our humble opinion) and an avocado and shrimp salad, or opt for a more hearty entree—like cassoulet—for dinner. If you’re an early bird, a Croque Monsieur (with a sunny side-up egg) is a great way to start the day. You’ll also find the much-loved French Lunch Tray, a throwback from the Jean-Robert’s Table days. Served on a cafeteria tray, the four-course meal of the bistro’s favorites changes every week and is only available at the bar for the low-for-fine-dining price of $19.
1801 Elm St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 455-3720, frenchcrustcafe.com. Breakfast and lunch Wed–Sun, dinner Thurs–Sat. MCC. $$

Top 10 LE BAR
A BOEUF
If it’s been a couple of years since you’ve been to Le Bar a Boeuf—the late Jean-Robert de Cavel’s fun-yet-refined French bistro located on the first floor of the Edgecliff Private Residences in East Walnut Hills—it may be time for a revisit. The formerly burger-centric menu now approaches the full repertoire of bistro classics. The menu reads like a greatest hits list of bistro fare, with escargot, beef tartare, duck leg confit, steak frites, and French onion soup all making appearances. As France’s influence on American fine dining has waned, it’s refreshing to see a restaurant committed to not only preserving the French classics but reinvigorating them.
2200 Victory Pkwy., East Walnut Hills, (513) 751-2333, lebarboeuf.com. Dinner Wed–Sat. MCC. $$
LUCA BISTRO
Luca Bistro opened in October 2022, but it feels like it has been around for decades. The unabashedly French restaurant, with its French posters, bright red outer paneling, and chalkboard menu proclaiming its specials to passersby, fits into its Mt. Adams environs so perfectly that it’s hard to imagine Hatch Street without it. That, combined with warm service, timeless French fare, and relaxed joie de vivre makes this a true neighborhood establishment. Chef Frederic Maniet grew up in the south of France and has done an excellent job transporting his native cuisine to a quiet corner of Cincinnati. These are the dishes that culinary Francophiles often crave, prepared in a straightforward, time-honored way. The Bouchées à la Reine, a buttery, flaky puff pastry filled with chicken, mushrooms, peas, Gruyèere cheese, and béchamel sauce, is so warm and comforting it makes chicken pot pie seem aloof by comparison. It’s a warm, gentle reminder that French food can be convivial and affordable.
934 Hatch St., Mt. Adams, (513) 621-5822, lucabistro. com. Breakfast and lunch Tues–Sun, dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$

AMMA’S
KITCHEN
Muthu Kumar Muthiah serves traditional southern Indian and Indo-Chinese vegetarian cuisine, but with a sizable Orthodox Jewish community nearby, Muthiah saw an opportunity: If he was going to cook vegetarian, why not also make it kosher? Muthiah prepares every item—from the addictively crunchy gobhi Manchurian, a spicy Chinese cauliflower dish, to the lemon pickle, tamarind, and mint sauces—entirely from scratch under the careful eye of Rabbi Michoel Stern. Always 80 percent vegan, the daily lunch buffet is 100 percent animal-product-free on Wednesdays. Tuck into a warm and savory channa masala (spiced chickpeas) or malai kofta (vegetable dumplings in tomato sauce) from the curry menu. Or tear into a crispy, two-foot diameter dosa (chickpea flour crepe) stuffed with spiced onions and potatoes.
7633 Reading Rd., Roselawn, (513) 821-2021, cincinnati. ammaskitchen.com. Lunch buffet Mon–Fri (all vegan on Wed), dinner seven days. MC, V, DS. $
BRIJ MOHAN
Order at the counter the way you might at a fast food joint, except the shakes come in mango and there’s no supersizing your mint lassi. The saag, full of cream in most northern Indian restaurants, is as intensely flavored as collard greens in the Deep South—real Punjabi soul food. Tarka dal is spectacular here, the black lentils smoky from charred tomatoes and onions, and the pani puri, hollow fried shells into which you spoon a peppery cold broth, burst with tart cool crunch. Follow the spice with soothing ras malai, freshly made cheese simmered in thick almond-flavored milk, cooled and sprinkled with crushed pistachios.
11259 Reading Rd., Sharonville, (513) 769-4549,
brijmohancincinnati.com. Lunch Fri–Sun, dinner Tues–Sun. MC, V, DC, AMEX. $
ITALIAN
AL-POSTO
Al-Posto is an upscale southern Italian spot that reflects the same commitment to quality ingredients and delicate preparation that made its predecessor Dear such a gem. Appetizers include classic sharables like marinated olives (prepared with orange zest, rosemary, and Calabrian chile), burrata with grilled focaccia, and coppa (a cured pork served with preserved peppers and almonds), but it’s the pasta (which can be ordered as an entrée or a first course) that’s not to be missed. We recommend the Cacio e Pepe, a seemingly simple dish comprised of bucatini (similar to spaghetti, but thicker), black pepper, and a sharp pecorino Toscano. Since you’re probably wondering, “Al-Posto” roughly translates to “at the spot.” Located in the middle of Hyde Park Square, this eatery seems poised to become the culinary focal point of the neighborhood.
2710 Erie Ave., Hyde Park, (513) 321-2710, al-posto.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DC, DS. $$
FORNO
Cristian Pietoso’s second restaurant has all the bones of an upscale eatery, but the menu is infused with enough Italian soul to make nonna proud. In most instances, raving about a side of creamed corn wouldn’t bode well for the rest of the menu. Here, that side dish—kernels swimming in a pool of truffle-laced heavy cream that demands sopping up—is evidence that each component is purpose-driven. The red wine–braised honeycomb tripe, which carries a warning label (“Don’t be scared!”), and the tagliatelle bolognese with traditional beef and veal sauce are examples of the
elevated, adventurous comfort food that Pietoso strives for. 3514 Erie Ave., East Hyde Park, (513) 818-8720, fornoosteriabar.com. Dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $$
Top10 NICOLA’S
Chef/Restaurateur
Cristian Pietoso carries on the legacy of his father, Nicola, as the elder Pietoso’s Over-the-Rhine eatery celebrated 25 years in business in 2021. You can still get the old Italian classics, and they’ll be as good as ever, but the rest of the menu has blossomed into a freewheeling tour of modern American cuisine. Any establishment paying this level of attention to detail—from the aged balsamic and lavender honey on the Italian cheese board to the staff’s wine knowledge—is going to put out special meals. Rarely have humble insalate been so intricately delicious, between the non-traditional summer gazpacho, filled with crab, zucchini, peaches, and squash, or the balance of the tangy, salty, and citrusy Siciliana salad. Order an old favorite, by all means, but make sure you try something new, too.
1420 Sycamore St., Pendleton, (513) 721-6200, nicolasotr.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS. $$$
PEPP & DOLORES
As with all of Thunderdome’s restaurants, you get a sense that they want to deliver a meal that satisfies many different kinds of people. The prices are reasonable, with pasta entrées about $15. The dishes are familiar in their flavors, but everything feels balanced, modulated and gradually perfected. There is lovely variety: the limone pasta is zippy with lemon and chili flakes, and just the right mixture of tart and creamy; the deep meaty flavors on the mushroom toast are balanced with a nice acidity; and the heat in dishes like the eggplant involtini is just enough to wake up the sauce without overwhelming the flavor. The menu has a wealth of excellent vegetarian and pasta-alternative options.
1501 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 419-1820, peppanddolores.com. Lunch Fri–Sun, dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$


NOBLE OPENING
Noble Chicken recently opened its flagship location at 4600 Beechwood Rd. in Mt. Carmel. An offshoot of local chicken wing chain Wings and Rings, the standalone location expands on the popularity of the restaurant inside of the nearby Jungle Jim’s in Eastgate. The company plans to open this fast-casual concept in other states, including Florida and Texas. noble-chicken.com
PRIMAVISTA
Besides offering the old-world flavors of Italy, Primavista also serves up a specialty no other restaurant can match: a bird’s eye view of Cincinnati from the west side. The kitchen is equally comfortable with northern and southern regional specialties: a Venetian carpaccio of paper-thin raw beef sparked by fruity olive oil; house-made fresh mozzarella stuffed with pesto and mushrooms; or artichoke hearts with snails and mushrooms in a creamy Gorgonzola sauce from Lombardy. Among the classics, nothing is more restorative than the pasta e fagioli, a hearty soup of cannellini, ditali pasta, and bacon. Most of the pastas are cooked just a degree more mellow than al dente so that they soak up the fragrant tomato basil or satiny cream sauces. The fork-tender osso buco Milanese, with its marrowfilled center bone and salty-sweet brown sauce (marinara and lemon juice), is simply superb. Desserts present further problems; you’ll be hard-pressed to decide between the house-made tiramisu or bread pudding with caramel sauce, marsala-soaked raisins, and cream.
810 Matson Pl., Price Hill, (513) 251-6467, pvista.com. Dinner Wed–Sun. MCC, DC, DS. $$
SUBITO
Focusing on Northern Italian cuisine, Subito carves out its own worthwhile place in the landscape. Most of the items on the menu—from pizza to various pastas—will be familiar, but there are delightful surprises, like the lion’s mane lumache. This citrusy dish is served on lumache pasta and cooked with scallions, garlic, shallots, chili, brodo, and pecorino. Everything at Subito is done with intelligence and a light touch.
311 Pike St., downtown, (513) 579-3860, thelytleparkhotel.com/dining/subito.
Breakfast and lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$
JAPANESE
ANDO
You don’t go just anywhere to dine on uni sashimi (sea urchin) or tanshio (thinly sliced charcoalgrilled beef tongue). Don’t miss the creamy béchamel sauce cooked in the panko breaded and fried croquettes, or the buttery amberjack collar marinated in a Japanese citrus infused soy sauce and grilled over charcoal. Noodles are also well represented, with udon, soba, or ramen options available. And don’t forget to ask about the specials; owners Ken and Keiko Ando always have something new, be it kamo negi maki (grilled duck breast stuffed with organic green onions) or a chocolate crepe and matcha parfait, delicacies that you’ll be hard-pressed to find in anywhere else. 11255 Reed Hartman Hwy., Blue Ash, (513) 9540041, andojapaneserestaurant.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DS. $$$
BARU
Baru, the sleek izakaya in the former MidiCi space, prioritizes bar dining, which is meant to be enjoyed alongside its eclectic drinks list. The menu is broken down into drinks, sushi, “small plates,” “plates,” sides, and ishiyaki. Start with clever cocktail offerings, like the Japanese Highball (which uses Japanese whiskey), the Sake-tini, or the sweetly spicy Wasabi Margarita. Baru’s sushi offerings are—like the rest of the menu—fun and funky. The sushi menu is varied, but concise, featuring a trio of ahi tuna, spicy tuna, and escolar, as well as a quail egg nigiri. If sushi got the party going, the theatrical ishiyaki kicked it into high gear. The term refers to dishes that diners grill tableside on a hot stone, such as the prime New York strip. For all its convivial buzz, Baru is also a spot where solo diners can enjoy a few peaceful bar-side bites. The Crispy Rice Spicy Tuna from
the small plates section brought the same level of freshness and quality as the rest of the menu. Sometimes it pays to dine alone.
595 Race St., downtown, (513) 246-0150, barusushi.com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$$
KYOTO
Owner Jason Shi seems to know everybody’s name as he chats up diners, guiding them through the extensive sushi and sashimi menu. Five young sushi chefs, all part of Shi’s family, work at light speed behind the bar, a choreography backlit by rows of gleaming liquor bottles. Dinner proceeds with glorious chaos as a feisty Carla Tortelli–like server delivers one dish after another—combination of crab, fish, shrimp, scallop, and vegetable tempuras, a volcanic tower of chopped fatty tuna hidden inside overlapping layers of thin avocado slices, crispy chicken katsu with a mayo sauce,, and delicate slices of a samurai roll—all between shots of chilled sake.
12082 Montgomery Rd., Symmes Twp., (513) 583-8897, kyotousa.m988.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$
KOREAN
RIVERSIDE KOREAN RESTAURANT
Come for the jham bong—a seafood soup with flour noodles in a spicy broth with pork, shrimp, squid, mussels, and vegetables. Revered for its medicinal properties, the dinner-sized soup will leave your eyes glistening and your brow beaded with sweat. It’s a detox for your overindulgence, rejuvenation for when you’re feeling under the weather. Expect crowds on weekends. Expect too, that dozens of them have come for dolsot bibimbap, the hot stone pots filled with layers of rice, vegetables, meat or tofu, egg, and chili paste. Characterized by its electric color and addictive flavors, Riverside Korean’s version is a captivating bowl of heaven.
512 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 291-1484, riversidekoreanrestaurant.com. Lunch Tues–Fri, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$
MEDITERRANEAN
ANDY’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE
In this lively joint with a burnished summer lodge interior of wood and stone, even the food is unrestrained: rough-cut chunks of charbroiled beef tenderloin, big slices of onion and green pepper turned sweet and wet in the heat, skewers of marinated and charbroiled chicken perched on rice too generous for its plate.
906 Nassau St., Walnut Hills, (513) 281-9791, andyskabob.com. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days. MCC. $$
FILLO
Fillo has a menu composed of mezedes, the small, shareable plates that serve as the binder to a great Greek meal. ake the saganaki, for example. True to Greek tradition, Fillo’s version is served without a tableside flambé. But what the dish lacks in spectacle, it makes up for in spectacular flavor. Other dishes, like the Ntakos Salad, are much less familiar, though no less authentic. The salad (which originated on the Greek island of Crete) starts with a puck-shaped rusk of barley. which gets a good soaking to soften it, and then gets topped with olive oil, vinegar, onions, feta, capers, and kalamata olives. This layering of ingredients and flavors also defines Fillo’s most filling entrée:
moussaka. The classic dish appears on several local Mediterranean menus, but for pure comfort, Fillo’s combination of eggplant, potato, tomatoy beef ragu sauce, and béchamel can’t be beat. 1505 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 873-1995, fillogreekbakeshop.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$
Top 10 PHOENICIAN TAVERNA
No matter how much restraint you go in with, meals at Phoenician Taverna quickly become feasts. There is just too much that’s good, and everything is meant to be shared. With fresh pita bread continuously arriving from the ovens, and a table of quickly multiplying meze (hummus, falafel, muhammara), there is a warmth and depth to the cooking that envelops you. With such traditional cuisine, you may think there isn’t much left to discover beyond simply executed classics prepared according to time-tested methods. But there are always new discoveries as the flavors mingle from plate to plate: the tabbouleh with the hummus, mixed with a touch of harissa, or the smoky baba ghanoush spooned onto falafel. Phoenician Taverna keeps taking these classics a little further. 7944 Mason Montgomery Rd., Mason, (513) 770-0027, phoeniciantaverna.com. Lunch Tues–Fri, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$
SANTORINI
Steak, eggs, and home fries. Jumbo haddock sandwich with Greek fries. Chocolate chip hotcakes with bacon. Notice something wrong with this menu? Chicken Philly cheese steak sandwich with Olympic onion rings. Yep, it’s obvious: What’s wrong with this menu is that there’s nothing wrong with this menu. Greek feta cheese omelette with a side of ham. It’s been owned by the same family for more than 30 years. Santorini has diner standards, like cheeseburgers, chili five ways, and breakfast anytime, but they also make some Greek pastries in-house, like spanakopita and baklava.
3414 Harrison Ave., Cheviot, (513) 6628080. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Mon–Sat, breakfast and lunch Sun. Cash. $
SEBASTIAN’S
When the wind is just right, you can smell the meat roasting from a mile away. Watch the rotating wheels of beef and lamb, and you understand how Greek food has escaped the American tendency to appropriate foreign cuisines. Sebastian’s specializes in gyros, shaved off the stick, wrapped in thick griddle pita with onions and tomatoes, and served with cool tzatziki sauce. Whether you’re having a crisp Greek salad with house-made dressing, triangles of spanakopita, or simply the best walnut and honey baklava this side of the Atlantic, they never misses a beat, turning more covers in the tiny restaurant on one Saturday afternoon than some restaurants do in an entire weekend.
5209 Glenway Ave., Price Hill, (513) 471-2100, sebastiansgyros.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. DS. $
EL VALLE VERDE
Guests with dietary issues, high anxiety, and no Spanish may take a pass, but for hardy souls, this taqueria delivers a memorable evening. Seafood dishes are the star here—ceviche tostadas, crisp corn tortillas piled high with pico de gallo, avocado, and lime-tastic bits of white fish, squid, and crab; the oversized goblet of cocktel campechano, with ample poached shrimp crammed into a Clamato-heavy gazpacho; and simmering sopa de marisco came with langoustines, mussels,
crab legs, and an entire fish—enough to feed three. 6717 Vine St., Carthage, (513) 821-5400, Lunch and dinner seven days. $
NADA
The brains behind Boca deliver authentic, contemporary, high-quality Mexican fare downtown. You’ll find a concise menu, including tacos, salads and sides, large plates, and desserts. The Pork Al Pastor tacos, zesty with salsa verde and sweet with grilled pineapple, are definite crowd-pleasers. If you’re biased against Brussels sprouts, Nada just might convert you. The crispy sprouts, served with chipotle honey and candied ancho pepitas, are a deliciously intriguing starter. 600 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 721-6232, eatdrinknada.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$
TAQUERIA MERCADO
On a Saturday night, Taqueria Mercado is a lively fiesta, with seemingly half of the local Hispanic community guzzling margaritas and cervezas or carrying out sacks of burritos and carnitas tacos—pork tenderized by a long simmer, its edges frizzled and crispy. The Mercado’s strip mall interior, splashed with a large, colorful mural, is equally energetic: the bustling semi-open kitchen; a busy counter that handles a constant stream of take-out orders; a clamorous, convivial chatter in Spanish and English. Try camarones a la plancha, 12 chubby grilled shrimp tangled with grilled onions (be sure to specify if you like your onions well done). The starchiness of the rice absorbs the caramelized onion juice, offset by the crunch of lettuce, buttery slices of avocado, and the cool-hot pico de gallo. A shrimp quesadilla paired with one of their cheap and potent margaritas is worth the drive alone. 6507 Dixie Hwy., Fairfield, (513) 942-4943; 100 E. Eighth St., downtown, (513) 381-0678, tmercadocincy. com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $
SEAFOOD
MCCORMICK & SCHMICK’S
The daily rotation here reads like a fisherman’s wish list: lobster tails from Australia and the North Atlantic, ahi tuna from Hawaii, clams from New England. But high-quality ingredients are only half the equation; preparation is the other. Herb-broth sea bass, served with roasted fingerling potatoes, makes the taste buds dance. The spacious digs and attentive waitstaff bring a touch of class to Fountain Square and make it a sophisticated destination. It’s likely to remain a favorite. After all, it’s right in the middle of things. 21 E. Fifth St., downtown, (513) 721-9339, mccormickandschmicks.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DC, DS. $$
ROSEWOOD SUSHI, THAI & SEAFOOD
Chanaka De Lanerolle sold Mt. Adams Fish House back in 2011, and Rosewood Sushi, Thai & Seafood is its reincarnation—and reinvention. Most of the menu includes crowd favorites such as Pad Thai, made with rice noodles, egg, bean sprouts, and a choice of protein. The handful of ethnic experiments on the menu—like the Black Tiger Roll, one of the chef’s special sushi rolls, made with shrimp tempura, eel, shiitake mushrooms, and topped with eel sauce—are among its most vibrant offerings. 3036 Madison Rd., Oakley, (513) 631-3474, rosewoodoakley.com. Lunch Fri–Sun, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$$
STEAKS
CARLO & JOHNNY
The stars of the menu are 12 delectable steaks that could sway the vegi-curious to recommit. Not sure which to choose? If you prefer brawny flavor over buttery texture, go for one of the three bone-in rib cuts. Or if it’s that melt-in-your-mouth experience that raises your serotonin levels, C&J features several tenderloin cuts, including the premium six-ounce
Wagyu filet. There are the usual suspects of raw bar, seafood, pork chops, et al, if you’re interested in non-beef alternatives. 9769 Montgomery Rd., Montgomery, (513) 936-8600, jeffruby.com/carlo-johnny. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$$
JEFF RUBY’S
Filled most nights with local scenesters and power brokers (and those who think they are), everything in this urban steakhouse is generous—from the portions to the expert service. White-jacketed waiters with floor-length aprons deliver two-fisted martinis and mounds of greens dressed in thin vinaigrettes or thick, creamy emulsions. An occasional salmon or sea bass appears, and there’s a small but decent assortment of land fare. But most customers are there for the slabs of beef (dry aged USDA prime). The best of these is Jeff Ruby’s Cowboy, 22 ounces of 70-day dry-aged bone-in rib eye. This is steak tailor-made for movers and shakers. 505 Vine St., downtown, (513) 784-1200, jeffruby.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DC. $$$$
Top 10
THE PRECINCT
Part of the appeal of the Ruby restaurants is their ability to deliver deep, comfort-food satisfaction. And the steaks. The meat is tender with a rich mineral flavor, and the signature seasoning provided a nice crunch, not to mention blazing heat. The supporting cast is strong—the basket of warm Sixteen Bricks bread with a mushroom truffle butter, the addictive baked macaroni and cheese, the creamy garlic mashed potatoes, the crisp-tender asparagus with roasted garlic and lemon vinaigrette—and dinner ends on a sweet note with a piece of Ruby family recipe cheesecake. Neither cloyingly sweet nor overwhelmingly creamy, it’s a lovely slice of restraint. 311 Delta Ave., Columbia-Tusculum, (513) 321-5454, jeffruby.com/precinct. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$$
TONY’S
He is a captivating presence, Tony Ricci. Best known for his 30 years in fine dining—including the Jeff Ruby empire while managing the venerable Precinct—Ricci has built a life in the hospitality industry. Much of Tony’s menu is right out of a steakhouse playbook: jumbo shrimp and king crab legs from the raw bar; Caprese, Greek, and Caesar salads; sides of creamed spinach, mac-and-cheese, asparagus, and sautéed mushrooms; toppings of roasted garlic or Gorgonzola butters to accompany your center cut of filet mignon. There are boutique touches, though, that make it stand out—a garlic herb aioli with the calamari, steak tartare torch-kissed and topped with a poached egg, a superb rack of lamb rubbed with aromatic sumac and served with mint pesto.
12110 Montgomery Rd., Symmes Township, (513) 6778669, tonysofcincinnati.com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$$$
THAI
GREEN PAPAYA
Inside this simple dining room, replete with soothing browns and greens and handsome, dark wood furniture, it takes time to sort through the many curries and chef’s specialties, not to mention the wide variety of sushi on the somethingfor-everyone menu. Have the staff—friendly, attentive, and knowledgeable—help you. When the food arrives, you’ll need only a deep inhale to know you made the right choice. The Green Papaya sushi rolls are as delicious as they look, with a manic swirl of spicy mayo and bits of crabstick and crispy tempura batter scattered atop the spicy tuna, mango, cream cheese, and shrimp tempura sushi—all rolled in a vivid green soybean wrap.
2942 Wasson Rd., Oakley, (513) 731-0107, greenpapayacincinnati.com. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days. MCC. $$
TEAK SUSHI & THAI
Owner Chanaka De Lanerolle has said that he decided to bring back Teak’s take on Thai food because of the renewed vibrancy in Over-the-Rhine, which he compared to the energy he felt in Mt. Adams during his time there. But for all of the hype around the restaurant’s re-emergence on the scene, it’s probably best to consider it a reimagining rather
than a reopening. While long-time favorites show up on the menu, prepared by many of the same kitchen staff members from Mt. Adams, some adaptations have been made to better meet expectations of modern diners. Letting go of preconceived notions about Teak will serve you well. With a two-sided, standalone sushi menu and a wide variety of main plates ranging from small bites to signature dishes, you have plenty of room to craft your own dining experience. 1200 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 421-8325; 110 S. Second St., Loveland, (513) 583-8325, teakotr.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$
THAI NAMTIP
Classic Thai comfort food on the west side from chef/owner Tussanee Leach, who grew up with galangal on her tongue and sriracha sauce in her veins. Her curries reign: pale yellow sweetened with coconut milk and poured over tender chicken breast and chunks of boiled pineapple; red curry the color of new brick, tasting of earth at first bite, then the sharply verdant Thai basil leaves, followed by a distant heat. Tom Kha Gai soup defines the complex interplay of flavors in Thai food: astringent lemongrass gives way to pepper, then Makrut lime, shot through with the gingery, herbaceous galangal, all yielding to the taunting sweetness of coconut. Even the simple skewers of chicken satay with Thai peanut sauce are rough and honest, dulcified by honey and dirtied up by a smoky grill.
5461 North Bend Rd., Monfort Heights, (513) 481-3360, thainamtip.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MC, V. $
WILD GINGER
The ability to satisfy a deep desire for Vietnamese and Thai fusion cuisine is evident in Wild Ginger’s signature Hee Ma roll—a fortress of seaweed-wrapped rolls filled with shrimp tempura, asparagus, avocado, and topped with red tuna, pulled crab stick, tempura flakes, a bit of masago, scallions, and of course, spicy mayo. It’s tasty, even though the sweet fried floodwall of tempura and spicy mayo overpowered the tuna completely. The spicy pad char entrée was a solid seven out of 10: broccoli, carrots, cabbage, succulent red bell peppers, green beans, and beef, accented with basil and lime leaves in a peppercorn-and-chili brown sauce. 3655 Edwards Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 533-9500, wildgingercincy.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sun. MCC, DS. $$
VIETNAMESE
PHO LANG THANG
Owners Duy and Bao Nguyen and David Le have created a greatest hits playlist of Vietnamese cuisine: elegant, brothy pho made from poultry, beef, or vegan stocks poured over rice noodles and adrift with slices of onions, meats, or vegetables (the vegan pho chay is by far the most flavorful); fresh julienned vegetables, crunchy sprouts, and herbs served over vermicelli rice noodles (again, the vegan version, bun chay, is the standout); and bánh mì. Be sure to end with a cup of Vietnamese coffee, a devilish jolt of dark roast and sweetened condensed milk.
1828 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 376-9177, pholangthang.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS, DC. $
CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, (ISSN 0746-8 210), May 2025, Volume 58, Number 8. Published monthly ($19.95 for 12 issues annually) at 221 E. Fourth St., Ste. 130, Cincinnati, OH 45202. (513) 421-4300. Copyright © 2025 by Cincinnati Magazine LLC, a subsidiary of Hour Media Group, 5750 New King Dr., Ste. 100, Troy, MI 48098. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or reprinted without permission. Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, and artwork should be accompanied by SASE for return. The magazine cannot be held responsible for loss. For subscription orders, address changes or renewals, write to CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, 1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071, or call 1-866-660-6247. Periodicals postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio, and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Please send forms 3579 to CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, 1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071. If the Postal Service alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year.

Reading On the Fly
ATTENTION BOOK LOVERS—YOU NO LONGER NEED TO LUG A HEAVY BOOK BAG PAST SECUrity or pay newsstand prices to read on your flight. Between gates B10 and B12, you’ll find the Airport Library, one of the few of its kind in the world. In May 2023, CVG opened the reading room in collaboration with the Kenton County Public Library to let traveler s and flight crews alike enjoy a good book for free. Soon after, the Boone, Campbell, and Cincinnati and Hamilton County Public Libraries got in on the action, providing reading materials and QR codes to access their digital collections. Unlike traditional libraries, this one is open 24/7 and doesn’t require a library card for check-out—you can just grab a book and be on your way. You can even keep the book; those who wish to return theirs can do so at the Airport Library or any branch of the participating library systems. Reading materials can be donated at partner locations. (Adult fiction and biographies are the most requested.)
—CLAIRE LEFTON



MIAMI ALUMNI LEADING THE WAY
Celebrating the success of RedHawk-owned businesses
The John W. Altman Institute for Entrepreneurship at the Farmer School of Business created the RedHawk50 to identify, recognize, and celebrate the 50 fastest growing private companies around the world founded or led by former students of Miami University. The 2024 RedHawk50 winners create products and services that elevate society, solve problems in their industries, and make a positive impact in their communities.
CONGRATULATIONS TO OUR CINCINNATI-AREA HONOREES:



Eleeo Brands
Richard Palmer ’92, Co-Founder and CEO
Kruger and Hodges Attorneys at Law
Joshua Hodges ’11, Partner
FC Cincinnati
Jeff Berding ’91, President and Co-CEO
Manning Contracting, LLC
Suzy Manning ’07, President
Nic Manning ’06, General Manager
HOMEstretch
Derek Shewmon ’05, Co-Founder

INNAGO
David Spooner ’13, Co-Founder

Interlink Cloud Advisors
Matt Scherocman ’97, Co-Founder and CEO

Kinettix
Chad Mattix ’93, Founder and CEO

PowerApps911
Nicola Young Aschemeier ’03, CEO
Rooted Grounds Coffee
Dave Knopf ’90, Co-Founder and President
Patsy Knopf ’88, Co-Founder and CEO
Kris Chari ’92 , EVP
Verdant Commercial Capital, LLC
Mike Rooney ’78, Co-Founder andCEO
John Merritt ’85, Co-Founder and EVP