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THE CHARGER ACCOUNT
LIFESTYLE
DESIGN BY BERTINA FAN
Noma’s closing: Reckoning with the realities of fine dining Sophia Qin
Udon Mugizo
School News & Science & Tech Editor
Boasting three Michelin stars and to expand their culinary skills and voted best restaurant in the world boost their resumes but instead, they five times by The World’s Best 50, found themselves having to contend vaunted Copenhagen restaurant with a host of systemic problems— Noma is known for its New Nordic which Noma has received repeated Manifesto, which features the backlash for—including sexual and use of unconventional fermented verbal harassment, The New York and foraged ingredients and a Times states. commitment to ethical production “Noma should compensate its and high quality. Noma’s innovative workers for having to work long, approaches have inspired legions grueling hours completing the same of young culinary students, long- task. The work that interns established chefs and aspirational are subject to makes it restaurateurs alike, many of whom sound like they are have attempted unsuccessfully working in a to recreate its distinct flair. ART Consequently, when co-founder LIM A N and chef René Redzepi suddenly DA announced on Jan. 9 that the restaurant would be closing in 2024—citing that the long hours and high-pressure workplace culture were unsustainable—he rocked the culinary world. In The Atlantic, Rob Anderson, a self-described burned-out chef and owner of Massachusetts-based factory, rather than restaurant The Canteen, shared a renowned fine dining restaurant. that while the announcement was Usually with internships, you expect shocking, it was long overdue and to acquire new knowledge and not unexpected. Noma’s colossal essential skills, but Noma does success had been underpinned by not provide opportunities for the unpaid labor from its conception in employees to do that. However, I 2003 until October of last year, when can see the flip side. Workers know it finally began paying its team of what they are getting into before around 30 unpaid interns—which is they start working at Noma; it is up responsible for completing intricate, to them to decide how much they painstakingly repetitive tasks. Many are willing to sacrifice for a resume of these workers initially hoped boost,” Senior Kylie Duong said.
The restaurant has grappled with a myriad of other contradictions. Its manifesto champions the values of welfare and sustainability, yet the Financial Review states that Noma employees work an average of 15 to 16 hours per day. Additionally, meals cost around $500, which is nearly a fifth of the global median annual household income, per Vox. “High costs are warranted if there is something particularly unique about the food and it incorporates rare and expensive ingredients. Personally, I would rather stick to home cooking or an affordable meal at a local restaurant—and would likely be the case for most of the general public,” Junior Medha Nemani said. Redzepi also shared future plans for Noma in his announcement. According to NPR, he hopes to transform it into a food laboratory devoted to developing new flavors and experimenting further with fermentation. Redzepi also plans to establish an online platform, providing cooking classes and periodically hosting pop-ups. Moving forward, Noma’s model may continue to exert sizable influence within the restaurant industry. However, the forthcoming end of its regular service and global media coverage regarding its toxic kitchen environment signals a potential widespread reckoning of fine dining’s unsustainable practices.
All terrain-wheelchairs blaze new trails at state parks Sophia Qin Whether it is enjoying fresh air in Yosemite’s lush green forest or braving the biting cold of the Great Smoky Mountains, all-terrain wheelchairs give mobility-impaired individuals the opportunity to experience the distinct climates and breathtaking beauty of America’s geographical landscapes to the fullest. Compared to regular wheelchairs, these models feature thicker wheels with deep tread, offering better stability and traction and enabling them to navigate through uneven terrains including sand, snow, mud and water. They also allow users to adjust speed, direction and seat angle, which proves useful when traveling up or downhill. According to Orlando-based broadcasting company WKMGTV, beginning March 3, visitors to Florida’s Seminole State Forest can make a free reservation for its allterrain wheelchair for up to three hours. Spearheaded by nonprofit organization Friends of Seminole State Forest, the state’s first-ever track chair program is the latest in efforts aimed at increasing outdoor accessibility for those with neurological and physical disabilities. The family of Colorado-native Mark Madsen, an outdoor enthusiast who continued searching for ways to immerse himself in nature following a paralyzing car accident, sparked this movement towards
greater accessibility within public parks. In 2016, following his passing, they collaborated with Friends of Staunton State Park and Colorado Parks and Wildlife to establish the Mark Madsen Accessibility Fund and a track-chair program, Rocky Mountain PBS states. Currently, the program has purchased eight chairs and upgraded its fishing piers and equipment for wheelchairs users. Following in its footsteps, Michigan’s Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore provided a track chair in 2019, becoming the first U.S. national park to do so. Reservation requirements for allterrain wheelchairs differ depending on the state. In Georgia, where the Department of Natural Resources and Aimee Copeland Foundation (ACF) partnered to bring Action Trackchairs to 11 state parks in November 2022, visitors must provide a photo ID and proof of disability and complete an online certification course three days ahead of their visit. This gives the program sufficient time to notify the intended park. All-terrain wheelchair users must also be accompanied by an adult “buddy” without disabilities. Each chair weighs 500 pounds, and buddies provide necessary assistance in case an emergency occurs. “The buddy system is a valuable tool that promotes safety and inclusivity for the
School News & Science & Tech Editor
mobility-impaired. It is essential that everyone has equal access to nature, regardless of physical challenges, and the system helps to ensure this by providing additional support and protection,” Senior Parsa Ansari said. However, the benefits are accompanied by a hefty price tag, making it difficult for parks and individual users to acquire track chairs. According to Friends of Staunton State Park’s website, the cheaper of two track chair models purchased by the program cost $15,000. Maintenance fees rack up further costs; new batteries cost around $550 and tracks cost $750. Aimee Copeland Mercier—a quadruple amputee and founder of ACF—is working to improve accessibility; The Washington Post reports that ACF fundraised $200,000 to purchase $12,500 chairs at each for Georgia’s state parks. “All-terrain wheelchairs should be implemented in not only state parks, but in all local and national parks as well to ensure more access to the beauty surrounding us,” Junior Daniel Xu said. Despite financial limitations, the recent series of initiatives reflect a gradual, ongoing shift towards increased accessibility focused on bridging the gap between nature and individuals with disabilities. RT KIM A ELLIE
Ella Polak Staff Writer
A minimalistic, slate gray building with red trimmings and a pointed roof reminiscent of traditional Japanese architecture, Udon Mugizo’s San Jose location is both an architectural and gastronomical mix of Western and Eastern influences. The restaurant, located off Saratoga Avenue, serves a variety of classic and modern Japanese dishes centered around udon, thick noodles made from wheat flour. After arriving at the restaurant for lunch, I was quickly seated. I was surprised at the high prices, so I ordered an appetizer of Agedashi Tofu and one of Udon Mugizo’s signature dishes—Mentai Cream Sauce Udon—rather than a traditional bowl to get my money’s worth. Mentai cream udon is a modern Asian-fusion recipe that is popular in big cities in Japan like Tokyo and Osaka. My dish arrived with the udon noodles gleaming in parmesan cream sauce and a bright pink scoop of cod roe topping the plate. Chopped green onion, parmesan flakes and tempura sat atop the noodles, along with small portions of bean sprouts and seaweed. I slurped up the steaming hot udon and was instantly hit by the distinct acidity of the parmesan. The roe’s umami taste balanced out the intense flavor of the cream sauce and the bitter bean sprouts deepened the dish’s complexity. The crunch of the crispy tempura batter, bean sprouts and green onion complemented the soft, chewy noodles. However, despite the variety of flavors and textures, the taste of the parmesan was a bit too strong and overpowered other parts of the udon. Halfway through my entree, the agedashi tofu arrived, simmering in a dashi-based broth. I enjoyed the inside of the tofu, which was silky and cooked to perfection. However, the deepfried exterior was not crispy enough for my taste. Udon Mugizo has a few unique dishes that could be worth the high price; however, some of their traditional dishes seem to lack the distinct flavor profile I found in my mentai cream sauce udon. Still, with the right selection of food, Udon Mugizo delivers a memorable, flavor-filled experience and is a great choice for satisfying noodle cravings.
Udon Mugizo (4/5) deal or noo-dle?
+ very attentive service + visually appealing dishes - expensive dishes
