Noma’s closing: Reckoning with the realities of fine dining

Boasting three Michelin stars and voted best restaurant in the world five times by The World’s Best 50, vaunted Copenhagen restaurant Noma is known for its New Nordic Manifesto, which features the use of unconventional fermented and foraged ingredients and a commitment to ethical production and high quality. Noma’s innovative approaches have inspired legions of young culinary students, longestablished chefs and aspirational restaurateurs alike, many of whom have attempted unsuccessfully to recreate its distinct flair. Consequently, when co-founder and chef René Redzepi suddenly announced on Jan. 9 that the restaurant would be closing in 2024—citing that the long hours and high-pressure workplace culture were unsustainable—he rocked the culinary world.

In The Atlantic, Rob Anderson, a self-described burned-out chef and owner of Massachusetts-based restaurant The Canteen, shared that while the announcement was shocking, it was long overdue and not unexpected. Noma’s colossal success had been underpinned by unpaid labor from its conception in 2003 until October of last year, when it finally began paying its team of around 30 unpaid interns—which is responsible for completing intricate, painstakingly repetitive tasks. Many of these workers initially hoped to expand their culinary skills and boost their resumes but instead, they found themselves having to contend with a host of systemic problems— which Noma has received repeated backlash for—including sexual and verbal harassment, The New York Times states.

“Noma should compensate its workers for having to work long, grueling hours completing the same task. The work that interns

The restaurant has grappled with a myriad of other contradictions. Its manifesto champions the values of welfare and sustainability, yet the Financial Review states that Noma employees work an average of 15 to 16 hours per day. Additionally, meals cost around $500, which is nearly a fifth of the global median annual household income, per Vox.

“High costs are warranted if there is something particularly unique about the food and it incorporates rare and expensive ingredients. Personally, I would rather stick to home cooking or an affordable meal at a local restaurant—and would likely be the case for most of the general public,” Junior Medha Nemani said.

Redzepi also shared future plans for Noma in his announcement.

Udon Mugizo

Ella Polak Staff Writer

A minimalistic, slate gray building with red trimmings and a pointed roof reminiscent of traditional Japanese architecture, Udon Mugizo’s San Jose location is both an architectural and gastronomical mix of Western and Eastern influences. The restaurant, located off Saratoga Avenue, serves a variety of classic and modern Japanese dishes centered around udon, thick noodles made from wheat flour.

Usually with internships, you expect to acquire new knowledge and essential skills, but Noma does not provide opportunities for the employees to do that. However, I can see the flip side. Workers know what they are getting into before they start working at Noma; it is up to them to decide how much they are willing to sacrifice for a resume boost,” Senior Kylie Duong said.

According to NPR, he hopes to transform it into a food laboratory devoted to developing new flavors and experimenting further with fermentation. Redzepi also plans to establish an online platform, providing cooking classes and periodically hosting pop-ups.

Moving forward, Noma’s model may continue to exert sizable influence within the restaurant industry. However, the forthcoming end of its regular service and global media coverage regarding its toxic kitchen environment signals a potential widespread reckoning of fine dining’s unsustainable practices.