Ceufad Summer 2020

Issue 143 Summer 2020 £2.50

ceufadKAYAK CYLCHGRAWN CANŴ CYMRU JOURNAL OF CANOE WALES

Q&A ABERKAYAKERS

DESTINATION WALES

BRITISH UNIVERSITIES KAYAK EXPEDITION 2019: RUSSIA LOCKDOWN STORIES

MEET THE CHAPPELLS

PONT CYSYLLTE, LLANGOLLEN (BEFORE LOCKDOWN) ROD SMITH

editorial

W

hen the spring issue was published back in March we were just going into lockdown and things were looking pretty uncertain. The last few months have been incredibly challenging; the pandemic and associated lockdown has impacted virtually every aspect of our lives. However, it’s great to be able to publish this issue with the end of lockdown possibly in sight and the news that we can get out on the water again.

It’s been a strange edition to put together; the summer issue is usually brimming with sea kayaking, Alpine whitewater, club trips and long days on the water. The events page is full of festivals, races and symposiums. With no paddling it could have been a pretty empty magazine. However, it gave us the opportunity to visit some of the features we’ve been talking about doing for a while now (but keep putting on the back burner). And also ask some of the Welsh athletes, coaches and clubs how they’ve managed during lockdown (social media has been packed with some incredibly creative solutions for keeping paddlers entertained and active during lockdown!).

So here it is, the almost-post-lockdown Summer edition. Ceufad but with a slight twist.

Hope you’re all keeping happy and healthy. See you on the water soon!

Vicky Barlow Editor ceufad@canoewales.com

Ceufad Ed Ceufad

2 |

CEUFAD

@Ceufad

ceufad

Ceufad is the official magazine of Canoe Wales. It is produced by members & the views expressed are not necessarily those of Canoe Wales or the magazine’s editor. Ceufad is free to members of Canoe Wales.

SUBSCRIPTIONS are available to non-members for £10 for 4 issues from Canoe Wales.

ADVERTISING For advertising rates contact Vicky on: ceufad@canoewales.com SUBMISSIONS Articles are always welcomed & should be submitted as Word files, however, typed articles are also accepted. Images can be prints or tiff/jpeg/RAW files (preferably 300ppi). These will be returned.

CONTACT ceufad@canoewales.com – 01678 521199 Ceufad, Canoe Wales, Bala, Gwynedd LL23 7NU Ceufad is produced quarterly in Spring (March), Summer (June), Autumn (Sept) and Winter (Dec).

NEXT ISSUE: AUTUMN DEADLINE: 1ST SEPTEMBER Ceufad welcomes all contributions but reserves the right to edit & condense to fill the space available.

Design & layout: Vicky Barlow www.victoriabarlow.co.uk

13

18 14

4

Canoe Wales News

Info and updates from Canoe Wales

10

Waterways and Environment Update

The nation’s ‘favourite’ river is facing ecological disaster

12

In the Flow

The latest paddlesport products and news

13

Lockdown stories

4 paddlers share their lockdown experience

18

Q&A Aberkayakers

Chatting with the Canoe Wales’ Club of the Year

20 British Universities Kayak Expedition 2019

Cara Lee uncovers some epic whitewater in Russia

CONTENTS 24 Meet the Chappells

24

The secrets of a successful paddling family

28

Destination Wales

The insider info on Wales’ best paddling spots

34

The Canoe People of Patagonia

Kath McNulty explores the land and waters of the Yagán

38

Emily Davies

Profile of a Welsh Slalom paddler

37

Thomas Abbott

Profile of a Welsh Slalom paddler

COVER

28

DUNCAN STEWART

BRITISH UNIVERSITIES KAYAK EXPEDITION 2019, RUSSIA

RIVER KITOY

JAMIE PEDEN

SPRING 2020

|

3

CANOE WALES – OUR TEAM Jen Browning CEO MEMBER SERVICES TEAM Paul Marshall Coaching Manager (Consultant) Gayle Penn Development Officer Rhys Green Development Officer Val Ephraim Administrative Officer Jen Rigby Membership and Communications Officer Ellen Roberts Finance Officer Phil Stone Places to Paddle Manager PERFORMANCE TEAM Dan Golder Performance Manager and Talent Pathway Officer (South) Jonathan Davies Talent Pathway Officer (North) Serena Williams Talent Pathway Officer (South) (maternity leave) Lydia Wilford Talent Pathway Officer (South) Gareth Bryant Talent Pathway Officer (West) Tom Power Head Coach (Slalom) Dan Goddard Performance Coach (Slalom) DIRECTORS Kerry Chown Chairperson Andy Booth Finance Director David Wakeling Elsa Davies Lowri Davies Ian Hughes Jet Moore Eryl Richards Mary Taylor Ieuan Watkins

CONTACT CANOE WALES www.canoewales.com admin@canoewales.com 01678 521 199 National White Water Centre, Frongoch, Bala, Gwynedd, LL23 7NU #canoewales

4 |

CEUFAD

MESSAGE FROM THE CEO, JEN BROWNING From all of us at Canoe Wales, I want to extend a massive DIOLCH to all of our members for your kind words of support and your commitment to the safety and well-being of everyone in our community in Wales over the past three months.

There’s no doubt that this has been an incredibly challenging time for our community and for us as an organisation. However, as I write this message, things are finally starting to look up. By the time you read this, we expect that travel restrictions will have been relaxed across Wales (starting 6 July) which will enable many of you to get back on the water for the first time in months. Popular paddling sites across Wales have started to reopen, and we are continuing to liaise with site managers at destinations that remain closed to encourage them to reopen as soon as it is safe to do so.

We will continue to provide updates via email to keep you informed about important changes. If you don’t already receive our emails, please do login to your GoMembership account and change your communication preferences so that you’re always getting the latest information from us. You can also always find our latest COVID-19 guidance on our website, along with tools and templates for clubs and commercial providers to prepare for a return to activity.

I hope that in the weeks to come, all of you will be back out enjoying your favourite spots in Wales. As you get back on the water, please send us your photos, videos and stories so we can celebrate with you.

Finally I have one small request for all of you. We are already seeing increasing interest in paddlesport from potential new paddlers, and so I would encourage you to do whatever you can to point new paddlers in our direction if you spot them when you’re out paddling.

We are working on improving our resources for new paddlers to ensure that we can connect them to training and support to safely get started on their paddling adventures.

And as always, if there is ever anything more we can do to support you, please get in touch. We’re here, ready to help with whatever you need.

Stay safe, Jen

INTRODUCING CLARE RUTTER BRITISH CANOEING #SHEPADDLES AMBASSADOR FOR CANOE WALES Cardigan woman Clare Rutter has been appointed British Canoeing #ShePaddles Ambassador for Canoe Wales after going through a nation-wide application process. Clare who is an Outdoor Activities & Paddlesport Instructor with Adventure Beyond and Cardigan Bay Active and a Leader at Cardigan Sea Scouts intends to draw on her knowledge and experiences from her multi-faceted youth work career to promote and develop women’s and girls’ paddlesport in Wales.

Clare’s motivation to apply for one of only 10 available nation-wide voluntary posts stems from her awareness in her youth of typical stereotypes of women and girls, and she made it her mission to do her part to show that they CAN DO what they want to do and CAN BE who they want to be. She aims to inspire, support and guide current & future female paddlers in the sport whether they want to be a weekend paddler, a volunteer club Coach, a paid Instructor or even aim for the Olympics!

In 2017, Clare unfortunately sustained a life-changing Traumatic Brain Injury but even that was unable to dent her motivation, determination and commitment to her beliefs but her self-confidence was knocked. She says ‘Even more so than before, I felt as both a female and as someone with a newly acquired disability, that I had to work longer and harder with a slightly different viewpoint to attempt to remove the stigma of women’s perceived roles, ambitions and abilities. I have had to and continue to re-learn and re-establish skills and knowledge to enable me to reclaim my life. Returning to paddlesport post-injury has been a great vehicle through which to do that’. Several years on, with re-established self-confidence following sheer determination, great friends and family and an understanding employer, she continues in paddlesport with more insight and personal experience to endorse and promote the courage, strength, abilities and potential of all women. She says ‘One day, perhaps the notion of women participating equally in numbers and with equal publicity in sport (and in all areas of life!) will become both equal AND normalised!’

Clare’s role unfortunately began during the COVID-19 lockdown period on the 1st May but technology has played a huge part in facilitating the role. Together with her volunteering as the First Aid & Safeguarding Coordinator on the Cardigan Coronavirus Help

Team, she has been busy developing her role, ideas and plans using online video conferencing. So far, she has participated in the online version of ‘Slalom Inspires’ an all-female, national slalom event, a live Q & A with Sal Montgomery – a well-known British female Whitewater Kayaker, a live Q & A with British paddling clothing & equipment manufacturers Peak UK and Palm Equipment – prompting discussion surrounding female specific tailored items and participated in British Canoeing’s ‘Bank Holiday Garden PaddleFest’ where she creatively depicted herself using her kayak for purposes other than regular paddling. Clare will be further using online technology to deliver a whole host of activities and challenges online alongside promoting and introducing the sport to potential new paddlers over the next year of holding the role.

Locally, in Cardigan, once lockdown measures have been lifted and it is safe and suitable, Clare will be running #ShePaddles sessions at Cardigan Bay Active specifically for women and girls as part of the #ShePaddles initiative. Participants will be able to have a go at paddling canoes, kayaks & stand up paddleboards (SUP) and will have the opportunity to be signposted towards further paddling opportunities including both competitive and non-competitive pathways, volunteering, coaching, instructing, leading and guiding.

You can follow Clare: Facebook.com/clarerutter.DBA Twitter.com/Clare_Rutter Instagram.com/clare_rutter.ba.hons

GO PADDLING WEEK WILL BE BACK IN 2021!

We’re saving the best for 2021! You may have heard that the 2020 Tokyo Olympics and Paralympics have been rescheduled to next year. As times are uncertain, and we wouldn’t want to encourage anyone to go against government guidelines, we’ve decided it’s best to keep Go Paddling Week till 2021 as well. In the meantime, Canoe Wales will be supporting you to stay active – and of course, once restrictions are lifted, we’ll be making sure you have all the info and support you need to get back on the water safely with your family, friends, team mates and club members. Stay tuned for videos, challenges and more ...

SPRING 2020

|

5

I’m Hannah, 19 years old and from Barry in the Vale of Glamorgan. I found paddling around six years ago and before then I was involved in surf lifesaving. I’m currently studying Sport and Exercise Science in Cardiff Metropolitan University, so at the moment my life is very sport-orientated!

My paddling I train and compete for flatwater sprint and marathon with the performance team based in Cardiff. Paddling is a big part of my life and I thoroughly enjoy training both on and off the water. I typically train twice a day six days a week and love the lifestyle that comes with it.

Helping out new paddlers in my discipline is important to me so in the warmer months I volunteer with the beginners’ group and enjoy giving back to the sport.

Why did you join the Youth Advisory Group?

I decided to join the youth advisory group for a number of reasons.

Firstly, I saw it as a way of giving back to a sport that has given so much to me. I want to help make paddlesports as fun and beneficial as it has been for me. Secondly, I think it’s a great opportunity to develop skills and gain experience. Working closely with a national governing body is a very valuable experience to me as I hope to work in the sport and exercise industry in the future, being part of this youth advisory group is great on a CV and runs nicely alongside my studies.

What have been your experiences of the Youth Advisory Group so far?

I’ve had a few meetings, which have been great, sharing ideas with likeminded people and creating exciting plans. On the first meeting, the youth advisory group suggested it would be nice to have an event where young paddlers and volunteers can meet and have fun; within a week Canoe Wales had organised a rafting day. I think this shows how Canoe Wales value having a youth advisory group, it was lovely to see our ideas taken on board. Though being part of the youth advisory group, Gayle introduced us to an opportunity to attend a research network seminar about sports volunteering which was a very valuable experience.

What are the benefits of being part of the Youth Advisory Group?

I’ve developed skills in many areas through working in a team and gained confidence in voicing my ideas in a meeting setting. I have met amazing people with great ideas and formed friendships from other disciplines. It’s brilliant to have on your CV, being involved in the youth advisory group is fun and rewarding to try and improve paddlesports for young people in Wales.

6 |

CEUFAD

JOEY

HANNAH

MEET OUR YOUTH ADVISORY GROUP Hey, I’m Joey, originally from Newport in South Wales, I moved to the wild west in 2014 to study Outdoor Adventure at the University of Wales Trinity St David. Since then I have been working as a full-time coach and instructor at Llandysul Paddlers canoe centre.

My paddling I love all types of paddlesport, from canoe trips on the canal to paddling whitewater; I find it all enjoyable for different reasons. Most often I am found on the river Teifi with a group of young rippers trying new moves and having a great time!

Why did you join the Youth Advisory Group?

I got involved with coaching at fourteen years old while helping to run sessions at my local leisure centre. Looking back it was a bit daunting at first and there were a number of different challenges I faced as I progressed. When I spoke to Gayle it was clear how enthusiastic she was regarding helping upcoming coaches to succeed and have an enjoyable experience, this made me want to be involved.

What are you experiences of the Youth Advisory Group so far?

Of course due to COVID-19 paddling came to a sudden halt; from paddling nearly every day to not at all left me feeling a bit deflated.

Luckily, I was given the opportunity to chat to a number of the young volunteers and some parents; seeing first-hand the enthusiasm to not only get back onto the water but to coaching was amazing. As well as hearing how motivated everyone was a number of concerns were raised, for example being nervous to go back into coaching after a big block of time off. When we fed this back to Gayle and the team at Canoe Wales within a week there was a document sent out to the young volunteers with resources that could be used to keep coaches fresh but also develop their knowledge further. This showed how helpful this project was going to be to upcoming coaches.

What are the benefits of being part of the Youth Advisory Group?

There is, I feel a number of benefits to the YAG. As I mentioned before the concerns that the young volunteers are feeling can be passed on and acted upon, removing that barrier. I feel also meeting other members of the YAG will allow young volunteers to ask what other clubs are doing, for instance Elis and myself had a discussion regarding sessions and different ideas and how to get the most out of a session we wanted to run.

ELIS-LLYR

NEW LEADERSHIP AWARDS My name is Elis-Llyr. I am a coach and a paddler from Maesteg Canoe Club. I am involved in many different organizations including Canoe Wales, The Duke of Edinburgh, St John Ambulance Cymru, Cor Meibion Maesteg and a few others. I am currently studying towards working in the medical profession. I love adventure and making the most of every opportunity.

My paddling My focus is with white water kayaking and canoeing, however, I have a broad range of experience in many different disciplines and always love challenging myself with something new. I also spend much of my time coaching with Maesteg Canoe Club in pool sessions and out on other different bodies of water.

Why did you join the Youth Advisory Group?

I joined the YAG as it is one of my passions to help bring about change to help others – subsequently the role in the YAG follows just that. After meeting other like-minded individuals at the Members’ Meet through the Young Volunteer Programme, I was really enthused about how I could be a part of building up this community of young paddlers.

What have been your experiences of the Youth Advisory Group so far?

My experiences of the YAG so far have been incredible! From our first meeting, everyone has been so open to our ideas and how we can go forward to help the young people in Canoe Wales. A highlight for myself was when we travelled to London to the UK Sports Volunteer Research Network seminar where we were representing Canoe Wales and joining discussions with many different people regarding volunteering in our sport from around the UK. What are the benefits of being part of the Youth Advisory Group?

Being that the YAG is such a new initiative it can make such a difference absolutely anywhere for young people. When I look at where we are now it’s amazing what we can do – from listening to the wants and needs of young people and looking to act upon them, to planning rafting days, courses or meet-ups. I can genuinely say that I’m looking forwards to the future and what we are going to achieve!

BRITISH CANOEING ANNOUNCES NEW LEADERSHIP AWARDS SUITE British Canoeing has announced the launch of the new Leadership Awards which aim to create more opportunities for people to paddle by increasing the number of qualified leaders.

The new Leadership Awards suite will align to the British Canoeing Educational Philosophy and support leaders to run safe, quality, enjoyable trips, based on their group’s needs and aspirations.

The awards are ideal for clubs, centres and activity providers looking to lead groups on single or mixed craft journeys, from sheltered water to advanced water.

Key features of the new awards suite include – »» Direct access to the environment you want to lead »» No formal British Canoeing Leadership training requirements »» Direct entry to assessments available »» Single day assessments, allowing more agility, reducing time and expenditure »» NEW eLearning package to support those leading in an unfamiliar environment »» Downloadable logbook to support the recording of activity »» Digital self-analysis tool to support leaders in their development and preparation for assessment Key changes to the disciplines – »» NEW disciplines: Paddlesport Touring Leader, SUP Inland Open Water Leader, SUP Coastal Leader and Stadium White Water Leader »» Canoe Leadership to be split into Open Water and White Water »» Sea Leadership to have tidal and non-tidal assessment pathways British Canoeing is delighted and very proud to launch the NEW Leadership qualification suite, being part of the wider 4 year review of all Coaching and Leadership awards. This project has included 3 years of feedback from candidates, Providers, National Associations, Technical Groups and wider consultation ... Although much of the content has remained the same, the ethos and accessibility has changed significantly, providing direct access opportunities, single day assessments and no mandatory training, which could reduce both time and expense as well as recognising and celebrating individual experience.

Such shift and alignment with our Educational Philosophy supports an individualised journey.

Lee Pooley, Head of Coaching and Qualifications at British Canoeing Available from January 2021, British Canoeing will look to roll out the awards by completing the following milestones over the coming months: »» 3rd June: Provider recruitment commences »» Autumn 2020: Delivery Centres will be training Providers »» 4th January 2021: New awards will be available

The Youth Advisory Group is in its inaugural year and we are still looking for young people to join the team. If you’re interested please get in touch with Gayle Penn, Development Officer: gayle.penn@canoewales.com or 07734257417

Further details are available on the Canoe Wales website – https:// www.canoewales.com/british-canoeing-announces-new-leadership-awards-suite

SPRING 2020

|

7

#SHEPADDLES

#SHEPADDLESCYMRU

WHAT IS IT ALL ABOUT?

CW SECURES FUNDING!

Women’s Paddling Ambassadors, a hashtag, clothing, a Facebook group just for female paddlers ... what’s that all about then? If paddlesport is for everyone, then why are Canoe Wales and British Canoeing making such a fuss about women?

Well, it all starts with boring statistics and figures. No, don’t leave yet ... we aren’t going to quote them all here! We know you’d far rather be paddling than staring at a page of stats. Here’s a basic overview; there are more men paddling than there are women. There you have it, short and (for us) not so sweet.

The findings of the Sport Wales’ 2018 School Sport Survey highlighted that participation in paddlesport is relatively gender equal, whereas demand for paddlesport is higher amongst females and in-particular secondary school age.

With participation being fairly uniform this is not currently being translated into paddle club membership with female affiliation being at 28%. This indicates females are not returning to paddling after having an initial participation, we want to know why?

In January 2020 Canoe Wales were successful in their grant application to Sport Wales to establish and develop nationally #ShePaddlesCymru. The piloting clubs have been identified and contacted about the programme but unfortunately, before the programme could start, we were put into lockdown.

Gayle Penn, Canoe Wales Development Officer said ‘We are so happy to have been awarded the grant for #ShePaddlesCymru from Sport Wales and it’s a challenge for us to have to be putting most of the plans on hold because of COVID-19. We’re not going to let this stop us as we have a real desire to have gender balance in paddlesport in all settings.’

Canoe Wales will soon be going out to advert for the roles of #ShePaddlesCymru Mentors who will oversee the programme in their allocated club, support the development of club resources and mentor the #ShePaddlesCymru Club Champions who will deliver sessions, gain qualifications and have direct support from the #ShePaddlesCymru mentors.

So, you just want more women paddling?

Nope. We also want those women to get to where they want to be in paddlesport. That means creating a welcoming and supportive environment at every level within the sport. Research shows that women will hold back from presenting themselves for assessment far longer than men at the same paddling level.

It’s important to us that, if women want to move into coaching and leadership roles, they get there!

It’s just a hashtag; how does that make a difference? #ShePaddles is just one part of a bigger movement. Yes, we want to create the chatter on social media but we are also producing some tangible things to help everyone understand how they can make a difference. Such as this Engaging Women In Paddlesport document – there are stats and figures in this but we promise it’s an interesting read and has lots of great information too! www.britishcanoeing.org.uk/uploads/documents/Engaging-Women-in-Paddlesport-compressed.pdf For the third year British Canoeing enlisted the help of ten inspiring ladies as Women’s Paddling Ambassadors in England and for the first time this year Canoe Wales has it’s own Ambassador. They were chosen for a range of reasons but mainly just for their full on passion for paddling! Our ambassadors are busy spreading the love in a range of disciplines and at all levels of the sport. We’re sure you want to know more, so you can read all about them: www.britishcanoeing.org.uk/ news/2019/2019-womens-paddling-ambassadors-announced We also figured that the only way to get a movement moving was to give it space!

So we created the Women’s Paddling Community on Facebook. An awesome group where almost 1000 female paddlers are sharing and supporting their paddling ideas and ambitions.

And ... by popular demand Driven and developed by conversations in the Women’s Paddling Community and on the ground, we have a brand new #ShePaddles clothing range in our online store. Check it out and grab your gear: https://shop.britishcanoeing.org.uk/shepaddles/ Why can’t we have #HePaddles too?

You can! We want everyone to share their love of paddling, so feel free to use whichever hashtags sum that up for you. But ... what would be equally as awesome is if you celebrate the amazing female paddlers in your life. #ShePaddles is definitely not ‘just for girls’! Join the movement and spread the #ShePaddles love!

8 |

CEUFAD

If you’d like to know more about anything #ShePaddles in Wales please contact Gayle Penn, Canoe Wales Development Officer: gayle.penn@canoewales.com 07734257417

LLANDYSUL PADDLERS PROJECT ENCOURAGING NEW PADDLERS TO THE CLUB In early 2020 Rhys Green, Canoe Wales Development Officer, teamed up with Llandysul Paddlers to start a new project; working with a group of paddlers as they progressed from their Start to their Discover Award. This is Rhys’s overview of how they progressed.

We began by identifying a group of paddlers to work with and to attract to the club. The club identified 16–30 year-olds as their target group. They chose this group as they already had a good group of under-16s, and they also had a good group of over-40s. The long-term hope of attracting this group was to increase both the volunteer base at the club and those wanting to go though formal qualifications.

Once the club had identified this group we got together and looked through a bit of motivation theory. We looked at this theory to make sure any advert that went out had the correct language and pictures for those paddlers. As paddlers we tend to paddle with similar people doing similar things, we have the same drive and motivation, which is why we paddle together.

When I move from one discipline to another I like to get into that mindset; I tend to paddle that craft for the same reasons as others.

In simpler terms I paddle my whitewater kayak for excitement; my canoe tends to be overnights, at a slower pace enjoying the journey with others; when sea kayaking I enjoy journeying and covering a good bit of distance while enjoying nature. Each craft allows me to explore all areas but for me each has a purpose and works well with that mindset (I’ll get back on track … sorry!).

Knowing the mindset of others and what others may want, allows us to change as leaders/guides/coaches to give those attending the best experience. For our new group of paddlers we focused on: being able to gain the skills to paddle in a wide range of environments; to paddle a range of craft to find what they prefer; to attain their Start and Discover awards; how these awards could help on the pathway for coach awards etc.

The next step was to make sure the sessions would be delivered by the same coach. Having the same coach week in week out gives a connection and helps to build a relationship with the new paddlers. Bringing everything together we needed a time and day that

RAMSEY ISLAND ACCESS

would be accessible to this group. Llandysul opted for Wednesday afternoons (they are fortunate to have coaches able to run those sessions), the ideal target group was from the local universities, colleges etc. Llandysul also have their club night on Wednesday evenings, this link would allow the new group of paddlers to seamlessly filter into the club environment when they felt happy to do so.

Roll on a couple of weeks and we finally had our first session, in a swimming pool, giving a nice and comfortable starting point. The aims of this session were to get comfortable in the kit, try different boats, get used to the outfitting, see what worked for them, rather than coaching/teaching/instructing around any paddling skills. Once the kit fitted there were a variety of areas we could explore with comfort and enjoyment. This session also gave the coach a chance to get to know the individual so they could shape future sessions for them. Following this first session each session differed for those attending; some chose to canoe, others to kayak and a couple on SUPs. The club coaches focused on coaching the individual as they chose to move forward and there wasn’t a set plan as such.

Llandysul Paddlers run regular sessions as well as coach awards and paddlesport events. For more details vists www.llandysul-paddlers.org.uk or check out their Facebook page – Llandysul Paddlers Canoe Centre and Club.

If you’d like to know more about this project or starting a similar project in your club please contact Rhys Green, Canoe Wales Development Officer – rhys.green@canoewales.com Our approach came from some of the results from my MA thesis regarding motivation. The main theory I focused on was Self-Determination theory (Deci and Ryan, 2000). This work suggests that a lot of our individual motivation is driven by Autonomy, Competence and Relatedness. Autonomy refers to the ability to be in control/to have control.

Competence is having knowledge and skill within an area. Relatedness is how much this all makes sense to us; do we understand and know the people, do we know the area, do we know the sport etc. As coaches it is important to acknowledge these areas, if we forget one aspect we may lose the confidence of those we are coaching.

Deci. E., and Ryan. R., (2000) The “What” and “Why” of Goal Pursuits: Human Needs and Self-Determination of Behavior. Psychological Inquiry 11:4, pp. 227–268.

PEMBROKESHIRE MARINE CODE The Marine Code protects the amazing marine flora and fauna for which Pembrokeshire is renowned through voluntary codes of conduct and seasonal agreed access restrictions. For further details download the app or visit: www.pembrokeshiremarinecode.org.uk

COVID-19 RESTRICTIONS

Please be aware that due to COVID-19 restrictions, RSPB Ramsey Island will remain closed to the public for the whole of the 2020 season. Anyone paddling around the island is welcome to land on the harbour wall for a short rest but please remain in this area and, for the safety of island staff, do not come up to the buildings. The shop and toilets are closed and will remain so all season. If you land at a time when deliveries are due you may be politely asked to leave to create space to allow sufficient social distancing to be observed.

Please note that, as per usual, from 1st August Pembrokeshire Marine Code restrictions apply with regard to landing on beaches around Ramsey. From this date through to the end of November you are asked not to land on any of Ramsey’s beaches to avoid potential disturbance to breeding grey seals. Please note this also applies to the harbour beach. For further details on the Marine Code and to see maps of restricted areas see: www.pembrokeshiremarinecode.org.uk or download the app.

THE BITCHES SEA KAYAK GUIDES

SPRING 2020

|

9

NATION’S ‘FAVOURITE’ RIVER FACING ECOLOGICAL DISASTER Paddlers, like other river users desire high quality, pollution free waters for their activity. Many of our rivers are suffering from pollution of one kind or another from general litter to slurry, from garden waste to road run off.

The River wye has suffered particularly badly this year compounded by the very warm and dry spring. A decade ago, it was voted the nations favorite river, today it is facing ecological disaster.

There is considerable and understandable dismay that the normally clear waters of the Wye have once again turned a putrid green due to another severe algal bloom. The Usk has also suffered a bloom, albeit less severe, as have other rivers across Wales.

Those with long associations with the Wye will know that the river has always suffered mild algal blooms. However, their severity has increased significantly in the past three or four years.

They are also starting earlier in the year and lasting longer. While they used to be one-off events with the algae dying off or being flushed out with a rise in water levels, we are now experiencing multiple blooms throughout spring and summer. The river has a sickly appearance with its water resembling pea and at other times, French onion soup.

PERMANENT DAMAGE This ailing look is no mirage. Thick algal blooms can have severe and permanent effects on the river’s ecology.

By discolouring the water, essential sunlight is prevented from reaching aquatic plants such as ranunculus, impeding their growth and even killing them off. These plants play a vital role in the river’s ecology, providing food and habitat for a range of invertebrate, fish and bird species. In addition, excessive algae reduces the availability of oxygen in the water at nighttime, which when combined with high temperatures, can kill fish such as Atlantic salmon, barbel and brown trout.

The damage isn’t just ecological. Countless tourism-related businesses and jobs up and down the Wye Valley rely on a clean, healthy river. Severe and prolonged algal blooms during the height of the visitor season will do nothing to help the area’s economy recover from the COVID-19 crisis.

The Wye at Bridge Sollers, a few miles upstream of Hereford, in July 2013 showing clear water and extensive beds of ranunculus.

THE CAUSE? Algal blooms are caused by a combination of factors, including levels of light and flow. However, a large increase in the amount of phosphate, which acts as a fertilizer, entering the Wye’s headwaters is thought to be the principal reason for the recent increase in the blooms’ severity.

According to the latest modelling, the proportion of the phosphate in the lower Wye coming from agriculture has doubled in the past six years. The river is now failing its permitted levels of phosphate under the EU Habitats Directive.

The geographical location of this extra phosphate is also believed to be a factor in the blooms’ severity. The upper river in Wales is now a significant source following a large expansion of the poultry industry over the last decade. Since 2008 the upper catchment now hosts an extra ten million chickens with the Ithon (one of the river’s tributaries in Powys) having the lion’s share. This number of chickens produces large amounts of highly reactive phosphates from their manures, which find their way into the rivers.

10 |

CEUFAD

Early June this year. The photo clearly shows the algal bloom and, although earlier in the year, a significant reduction in ranunculus.

WATERWAYS & ENVIRONMENT UPDATE

Fueled by this phosphate, the algae moves downstream and, given the right conditions, divides every 24–48 hours. The further upstream the bloom starts the thicker it is at the bottom of the river.

Before 2010, the Wye’s algal bloom used to start becoming noticeable around the confluence with the Lugg (although the first signs were usually a few miles further upstream at Bredwardine).

This year’s bloom was noticeable at Llanbister on the Ithon, around 90 miles upstream of the Wye/Lugg confluence.

HOW HAS THIS BEEN ALLOWED TO HAPPEN? Both Powys County Council and Natural Resources Wales have a legal responsibility to protect Special Areas of Conservation (SACs) such as the Wye. They have, however, been apparently unwilling to use the existing laws to protect the river from the nation’s desire to eat more free range eggs. In the case of Powys County Council, this includes considering the impact of new poultry developments individually and cumulatively. Evidently, this is something that is not happening.

The result is a river turning a putrid green every summer and having its ecology destroyed.

Most of the farmers the Foundation has worked with in Powys want to operate in an environmentally considerate way Despite Welsh Government’s outward desire for sustainability and the protection of Future Generations, not to mention their legal obligations, there is little appetite to curb the planning excesses and environmental damage arising. In 2018 a formal complaint to the European Commission about the lack of regulation in Wales, inappropriate planning and lack of Water Protection Zones was lodged by Afonydd Cymru, the umbrella organisation for rivers trusts in Wales.

It is worth noting that the farmers we have worked with in Powys want to farm in an environmentally considerate way. They too have been let down by the Council’s planners who they assume are approving their applications having made the right environmental assessments.

Effluent from a free range poultry unit flowing across a field and into a stream in the Ithon (upper Wye) catchment

WHAT CAN WE DO? Three of the four factors generating algal blooms are to do with climate. While we leave that for Presidents Trump and Xi Jinping to deal with, there are measures we can take to at least halt the increase in phosphate entering the rivers.

The Foundation has been working with Herefordshire farmers with some success to reduce the amount of sediment and accompanying phosphate washing into the rivers there. There is still work to do in that part of the catchment but we will need to expand our operation much more in Wales too.

But this will not be enough on its own to prevent future blooms in the Wye. For that to happen, we are reliant on Powys County Council and Natural Resources Wales doing their job properly. The latter can only offer a view to the Council during the planning process and therefore cannot themselves stop the continued expansion of the poultry industry in Powys via that means.

However, they do issue the Habitat Regulations Assessment (HRA) that Powys Couny Council operate under in respect to all the SACs in their area. If the Council’s actions are in breach of the ‘Precautionary Principle’ that is enshrined in the Habitats Directive, the advice of the chief planner and within Natural Resources Wales itself, then this questions whether the HRA for their Local Development Plan is still valid. In Herefordshire, Natural England have enforced a moratorium on planning due to the Wye’s elevated phosphate levels, over-riding Herefordshire Council’s HRA. You can help too. We would urge anyone who cares about rivers and who lives in Powys (or elsewhere in Wales) to write to their Member of Parliament and Assembly Member regarding of the disgraceful state of what was once the nation’s favourite river.

Right now, the Wye and other rivers across Wales need as much public support as they can muster.

This article has been reproduced with the kind permission of the Wye Usk Foundation Places to Paddle Manager – phil.stone@canoewales.com

SPRING 2020

| 11

IN THE FLOW

THE FRAYED ATLANTIC EDGE: A HISTORIAN’S JOURNEY FROM SHETLAND TO THE CHANNEL Over the course of a year, leading historian and nature writer David Gange kayaked the weather-ravaged coasts of Atlantic Britain and Ireland from north to south: every cove, sound, inlet, island. The idea was to travel slowly and close to the water: in touch with both the natural world and the histories of communities on Atlantic coastlines.

The story of his journey is one of staggering adventure, range and beauty. For too long, Gange argues, the significance of coasts has been underestimated, and the potential of small boats as tools to make sense of these histories rarely explored. This book seeks to put that imbalance right. Paddling alone in sun and storms, among dozens of whales and countless seabirds, Gange and his kayak travelled through a Shetland summer, Scottish winter and Irish spring before reaching Wales and Cornwall.

Sitting low in the water, as did millions in eras when coasts were the main arteries of trade and communication, Gange describes, in captivating prose and loving detail, the experiences of kayaking, coastal living and historical discovery. Drawing on the archives of islands and coastal towns, as well as their vast poetic literatures in many languages, he shows that the neglected histories of these stunning regions are of real importance in understanding both the past and future of the whole archipelago.

It is a history of Britain and Ireland like no other.

ISBN: 9780008225117 RRP: £7.99 – £15.49 Available as an audiobook, eBook, paperback and hardback. For stockists and for more details visit www.frayedatlanticedge.wordpress.com

PALM EQUIPMENT ACQUIRES VE PADDLES After personal circumstances led VE founder Stu Morris to close the doors in 2019, he sought Palm as a potential buyer and a deal was done at the end of 2019.

Stu explained: ‘I didn’t just want to park VE, the paddles are too good for that. The brand is personal to me. I need to trust who takes it on. Palm has what it takes to maintain VE’s high quality and service’.

Handmade in Britain, VE Paddles with innovative Aircore technology, are made from the very best materials – toughened prepreg composites – to produce stronger, more damage tolerant blades; loved by owners the world over.

Andy Knight, Palm’s founder, is proud to be putting VE paddles back into production: ‘At Palm we are a group of specialists. Aside from being a natural fit to our range, I admire the fact that Stu has built VE just like I have built Palm, by learning and by experience. I can’t wait to see the first VE paddles coming from Clevedon’.

Due to the COVID-19 lockdown, things are a little later than planned. But led by engineer Grant Crichton work is underway at Palm’s Clevedon factory to install the VE machinery. Once in-place and tested, production will begin, with paddles ready by Autumn 2020.

The VE range will be available via vepaddles.com, and through Palm stockists from 2021. Stay tuned to the VE Paddles web site, facebook and instagram for updates and news.

KAYAK ESSENTIALS NEW ONLINE COACHING RESOURCES Nick Cunliffe and Matt Giblin are delighted to announce the creation of two new online coaching resources. Arising from discussions with our Kayak Essentials clients, and with adventure sports coaches and leaders, we have created the following platforms: The Essential Adventure Sport Podcast We explore a wide variety of coaching and leadership issues via discussions with experienced coach/leader educators, academic experts, and expedition activists in a range of adventure sports. The podcast series, free to download, will add a new discussion every two weeks in the coming months.

You can find all our podcasts here: https://theessentialadventuresportspodcast.podbean.com Essential Membership with Kayak Essentials In April 2020 we launched our Patreon online resource platform. ‘Essential Membership’ gives exclusive access to our ever-growing store of new resources – to develop personal paddling, leadership, navigation and coaching skills. We add new content every two weeks – creating videos, discussion articles, podcasts and coaching discussions, exclusive for our Essential Members.

Membership is available for only £3.60 per month, which can be joined or left at any time. We think that’s fantastic value for money! Further details and membership information can be found at: https://www.kayakessentials.co.uk/members-area/ For further information on these online coaching platforms: info@kayakessentials.co.uk www.kayakessentials.co.uk

12 |

CEUFAD

lockdown stories The Coronavirus pandemic has been life-changing and generation-defining; there have been very few aspects of our lives it hasn’t affected. At Ceufad we’ve decided to shift the focus away from the more sombre aspects and take a peek at some of the challenges that paddlers and the paddlesport industry have faced. Welcome to the ‘Lockdown Stories’. We’ve conducted 4 interviews (remotely!), with a club, an athlete, a coach and a CW Director, to find out how the lockdown has impacted them and how they’ve managed to work through it. Spoiler-alert: it seems to have brought the best out of the paddlesport community, and shown that we’re resilient, adaptable and creative … and we’re keen to get back out on the water!

the club

LLANDYSUL PADDLERS Llandysul Paddlers are a true community-focused, family-orientated club and canoe centre. They are super-active, with a stack of coaches and members and a packed summer schedule.

How has lockdown affected your centre?

Lockdown has had a huge affect on our centre and club we have gone from having a full diary of events, training, courses and club sessions etc to having to cancel everything and for a long time just close the doors and stay away from the site. At the start of the lockdown we spent some time trying to make sure everything was safe so we moved lots of the kit to secure storage and made sure everything was tidy ready for when we restarted. We also looked at how we could save any money so we cancelled or reduced any of our direct debits even looking at our bin collections and electricity accounts etc.

What have you been doing to keep your paddlers engaged?

After the initial shock of having to close we looked at ways to keep everyone engaged so Joey came up with a daily photo of club members and trips that the club has done since it opened in 1984.

We have had some great photos sent to us and added the Pull-aFace Friday to the Facebook updates.

We also organised a design-a-new-club-t-shirt-and-logo competition and, after looking over the many great designs, one of our paddlers Fin Yates Jones was announced as the design winner. All proceeds from the sale of the tops will go towards our re-opening club BBQ. We have also linked in with the Canoe Wales Zoom circuits on a Saturday and Wednesday, and with one of our club paddler’s, Gabi Ridge, stretches on a Sunday. During the course of the pandemic we have tightened and relaxed activities following the Canoe Wales guidelines. We have over the past week set up a slalom course with 18 gates and paddlers have been sending in full run times that gives us a virtual race. The club also has a run club on Strava and each week we announce the top 3 runners. This has been a great way to keep the paddlers nice and fit during times when they could not paddle.

Have you been involved in any community or paddlesport projects?

Lots of our members have been part of the local Help Llandysul campaign and this has involved food-shopping, lifts to the GP or hospital, picking up doctor’s prescriptions and looking after those in the shielding group. We have been involved in the British Canoeing Webinar, Canoe Wales Webinar and Canoe Wales Young Ambassador, Shepaddles and Slalom Inspires groups.

Is there anything positive you’ve done because of lockdown?

The lockdown has given us time to reflect on what we do as a club and centre; the main thing that we will do when we are allowed back on the water in groups is to provide paddling opportunities to as many people as possible at whatever level. The running club will still continue and we will invest more time in club coach development.

What’s the first thing your club will do once all restrictions are lifted?

With the sale of our new club tops we have raised some funds that will be spent on our opening day BBQ, so a bit of a social get together when we are allowed larger group gatherings.

Our club trip to France, that has been running almost every year for over 20 years, has been cancelled so we will look at more trips to UK sites like Bala, Llangollen, Dart, Scotland etc.

It has been a difficult time for our club and centre but we are determined to come back bigger and stronger. www.llandysul-paddlers.org.uk Facebook: Llandysul Paddlers Canoe Centre and Club

SPRING 2020

| 13

the athlete LLINOS OWEN, SPRINT PARACANOE Llinos is originally from Pwllheli, and started sea and surf kayaking after a being badly injured in a car accident. She was picked up by British Canoeing as part of a Talent ID initiative and started sprint training in 2018. She now paddles with Royal Leamington Spa Canoe Club and is coached by Attila Herbent.

How has lockdown affected you as an athlete?

The main effect has been missing out on the chance to compete in the Paracanoe European Championships in June. I was consistently making the selection times, and was looking forward to the selection regatta in April, and the chance to compete in my first international event. Accepting the loss of this goal, which was months, if not a couple of years in the making, has been a bit of an emotional roller-coaster, but the process of readjusting to aim for internationals next year is a positive one.

As for the day-to-day reality of the past few months, lockdown has given me the chance to focus. My ‘normal job’ is as an orchestral musician, so all my work for the foreseeable future had been cancelled by mid March. When I suspected that lockdown was on its way, I collected my boat from the club, and to be honest, I was quite excited by the prospect of being a ‘full time’ athlete during lockdown! The plan was to paddle on the canal next to the house once a day, and then do a gym session at home. When the guidance was clarified that we shouldn’t be paddling during lockdown that was a real disappointment, especially as a disabled athlete, I can’t walk far or go for a run, so paddling really is my ‘one form of exercise’ outdoors.

On the plus side though, the lockdown has given me more time to think about my technique, watch countless paddling videos, and do some maintenance on my boat.

How have you managed to carry on training?

Luckily, I have a few pieces of equipment at home like a pull up bar, ab wheel, and a set of adjustable dumbbells. My club also let me take the ‘yoke’ when I picked up my boat. It’s a piece of kit to practice and improve rotation, invented and built by the octogenarian legend Tibor Herbent. I have been aiming for a 6–7 minute plank 6 days a week, and a weights circuit 3–4 days a week.

Since the restrictions in England were relaxed in mid May, my coach Attila and I have been able to meet for socially distanced training, which has been unutterably brilliant. While we’re still not able to use the clubhouse as a base, we’ve been meeting in various great spots locally and I’ve been using my campervan as a mobile changing room.

14 |

CEUFAD

Have you stayed in contact with your coaches during lockdown?

Attila has been incredibly supportive. For us para paddlers, he’s been devising and sending gym circuits, making videos of core routines, and also holding Zoom exercise classes for the whole club.

We had regular phone catch ups to discuss home training plans and keep me motivated.

Now, we’re meeting for training at 8am at least 4 mornings a week, and it feels wonderful to be back on the water and being shouted at until I’m sick!

Is there anything you’ll carry on doing or anything positive you’ve started doing because of lockdown?

Going to bed earlier! As a musician in a ballet orchestra, we’re often working until 10.30 at night and then commute home, so the chance to go to bed early enough to be refreshed for early morning training is brilliant; I’ve definitely felt the benefit.

What’s the first paddlesport-related thing you’ll do once all restrictions are lifted?

I can’t wait to go back to the Llŷn Peninsula where I grew up, and get out in my sea kayak to navigate the tidal races and see the puffins that breed on Ynysoedd Gwylan.

Thanks to Disability Sport Wales and Canoe Wales for their support with training and equipment during my time on the Paracanoe Talent Pathway.

You can follow Llinos on Twitter @llinoselinowen

the coach NICK CUNLIFFE, KAYAK ESSENTIALS Kayak Essentials is a coaching and guiding company based on Anglesey and led by Nick Cunliffe and Matt Giblin. Established in 2009 they provide high quality coaching courses, guiding and resources.

How has lockdown affected your business?

The COVID-19 crisis has had a profound effect on our Kayak Essentials coaching business – Matt and I have been unable to work with our clients since the restrictions kicked in. We’ve been off the water for almost three months, and will likely be unable to resume our coaching program for another six weeks. So, the business is currently unrecognisable from its former appearance!

This change in our working lives has triggered a series of positive developments; ideas long-discussed have finally made the top of our ‘to do’ list. Turning thought into action, we launched two new online projects: our ‘Essential Membership’ Patreon platform, and our ‘Essential Adventure Sports Podcast’. We also rebooted our Kayak Essentials YouTube channel and uploaded a lot of new videos.

What have you been doing to keep your clients engaged?

Well, the first step was to communicate with all our clients. As UK restrictions developed, there was a great deal of uncertainty in the adventure sport industry and we recognised that many would be wondering about our next moves. So, we contacted all our 2020 clients and offered them alternative course dates later in the year, an option to receive a refund on any course fees paid, and a money-back guarantee on any future cancelled courses. This gave our clients the confidence to transfer their bookings, and to commit to new course dates.

We also uploaded all the entertaining or informative video footage that we could find on our hard drives: to our website, and to our YouTube channel / FaceBook pages. We wanted to give people something to watch, to laugh at, to learn about.

We also produced a short series of ‘Cabin Fever Workout’ videos – using a few kayaks, a small outdoor space and a bit of imagination.

We were delighted at the positive response to these videos, and enjoyed all the feedback. It would be a stretch to describe them as educational, but they kept us occupied for a while!

Is there anything you’ll carry on doing or anything positive you’ve started doing because of lockdown?

Yes! We will continue to develop our online coaching platforms – our profession has evolved over the years, and we believe that tomorrow every coaching business will have its own interactive online presence, in the same way that today we all have websites and social media connections.

So, we’ll continue to build our ‘Essential Membership’ platform, which is rooted in our passion for leadership and coaching education. We’ll also release new podcasts every couple of weeks, exploring a wide range of issues with many fascinating and informative adventure sports participants. And we’ll keep filming videos for inspiration, education and entertainment that we will upload to our Kayak Essentials YouTube channel.

Hopefully we’ll also find time to continue coaching on the water!

What’s the first paddlesport-related thing you’ll do once all restrictions are lifted?

Well, we already have … Matt has been cruising the Lancashire canals on his SUP, while I met a mate for a socially-distanced paddle in the Menai Strait. But I’m really missing the fantastic dynamic Welsh water that I enjoy so much. In the week before lockdown I was on the Ogwen and at Penrhyn Mawr, so my outdoor life might feel a little richer when I can finally return to those wonderful paddling playgrounds. info@kayakessentials.co.uk www.kayakessentials.co.uk

Have you been involved in any community or paddlesport projects ?

Yes. We wanted to create a useful presentation series for any paddlers seeking educational stimulus during the lockdown. We started with a planning & navigation presentation based on a ‘virtual’ trip to Rhoscolyn, Anglesey. We were startled to see over 100 people join our FB Live event, who all stuck around for the entire hour. The series snowballed into a total of 12 presentations covering a range of topics, including decision-making, risk management, group dynamics - and of course sea kayak navigation skills. We even planned a trip from Northern Ireland to Scotland, which broke all travel restrictions and guiding ratios!

In total, we provided over 18 hours of online presentations, to audiences of more than 100 participants from the UK, continental Europe and North America. How cool is that?!

Our only disappointment was that Barnard Castle isn’t on the coast.

We’d have loved to have planned a trip there – we’ve heard that it’s well worth a visit.

SPRING 2020

| 15

canoe wales JET MOORE, DIRECTOR Jet has been on the CW Board for 4 years, and has been a volunteer coach in Cardiff for many years, helping Nigel Midgley get the squad off the ground there. He also runs Adventure Beyond, an outdoor activity centre in Cardigan Bay. When he’s not volunteering for CW or managing his business, he’s looking after the family farm.

He can often be seen out on the water enjoying paddling adventures with his family.

INTRODUCTION During this very interesting (for want of a better word) and challenging time lots has been going on in the background to help paddlesport as a whole continue and/or get back out safely. This is not just the case now, during this COVID-19 pandemic, but happens all the time; we’re always working to support and develop all aspects of paddlesport.

Many people ask why I give up my time for free to be involved with Canoe Wales and sit on the CW Board. The answer is this; people put time into me as volunteers and helped me get to where I am now. So I feel the need to give back.

I am opinionated and have a view; and I believe that if you want things to happen or you want to make change, then you have to get involved. Don’t expect others to do it for you, especially if it’s something you truly believe in.

“In most cases luck is made, not given, and so is progress.”

So along comes COVID-19, a virus that overnight near enough stopped life as we know it. No paddling, no work, no play. Lots of family time, albeit in your backyard and house.

A question quickly came to mind: “what now?”

Action and working together was required to get us through this.

So it began … Zoom!

STAFF The staff team we have at CW are very committed and work over and above their job role and time allocated. This is because they have a love for developing and helping people and the sport in turn. No matter what the weather the coach is there on the water and or banks with the athletes.

During this time the team have been continuing to work and make sure we keep positive.

Coaches have been running online sessions to keep athletes active and ready to spring back into action. This was essential; as a prior athlete I know that sitting still is not good for the body or mind.

Me? I ended up climbing the biggest tree on the farm during this to get my adrenalin fix!

The development and coaching managers’ team has been supporting clubs and paddlers; making sure they are kept up-to-date, running online webinars and developing resources and ideas for when we can get back on the water.

The admin team has been very busy sending out all the details, keeping us all updated and doing the day-to-day requirements, which have not stopped. Val (Admin Officer) is one of those people every company dreams of having on their staff team! I’m not sure how she copes with me – a dyslexic, over-enthusiastic, hyper paddler-coach.

16 |

CEUFAD

Jen (CEO) has the hard job of pulling us all together and then sending us off in the right direction. She has been very busy working out how we can survive and come out of this even stronger. How we are going to look after the paddlers, the staff and the volunteers, and responsibly get back out paddling.

VOLUNTEERS Sport, especially at the amateur level, relies on volunteers and we have so many great ones in our sport and industry. I have been on more Zoom calls in the last few months than I can imagine, and on every meeting there are many people putting their time in for free to help get us all out again.

One example of this is the group that has been looking at how we can get back out, and that has been helping to write the guidance at each stage.

At each stage of recovery we have been looking at what Welsh Government has set out, and we have then produced guidance to correspond with this. This has then been used to guide the Government’s plans. After which we then have to work out how to implement and communicate this to our membership. Hours of meetings, loads of input from reps, clubs, centres, coaches, and others too.

We also have to talk to stakeholders such as the RNLI, HMCG, National Parks, NRW, Councils, National Trust, and others to make sure what we put out fits with their guidance and plans. Some of you may not know that a lot of the access restrictions landowners have put in have been forced on them by a law passed in the WAG. Some landowners have implemented this well and practicably, others have taken it as an excuse to stop everything.

This process enabled paddling to be one of the first sports to be allowed back into action in May, where many other sports were not.

I for one could not see why you could not paddle. I can keep a distance from others, and not harm or put any one at risk whilst doing it, and it’s possibly safer than cycling on a road. However this had to be done in the right way to keep everyone safe and happy.

BOARD Many of the CW Board are now independent and not paddlers. You may ask, “Why aren’t they paddlers? What would they want to do this for?” As I did.

However, there are lots of advantages to having a diverse board; it brings in new skill sets, and ideas and experience from other sectors. One person who is a great example of this is Andy (Finance Director) who has been part of the board for some years now. He is not a paddler but the skills he brings and the amount of time he puts in are huge (as do all of the Directors!), however, with his expertise in finance he has brought CW from a point of financial risk to financial stability. The new chair, Kerry, brings her expertise in HR, which would otherwise cost a fortune. She is taking over from Dave Wakeling, who has put so much time and effort into helping keep CW going over some very challenging times, often with very little recognition as he just cracks on with the work.

PADDLERS Many have been sharing ideas and inspiration in the way of photos and resources to help keep us all motivated. Such as Ray’s (Goodwin) continual videos. I’d always wondered what he did with all those hours of footage. There have been many creative examples of how to keep fit at home, with lots of people coming up with inventive ways to stay connected with paddling and even in some cases even managing to paddle in their backyard!

GAINS AND SUCCESS Out of all of this there have been some positive outcomes: »» Paddlesport was one of the first sports allowed to get back in action, although maybe not quite as we know it … yet. »» We have developed and shared some great resources online.

»» Our competitive paddlers are like coiled springs ready to go! »» Our coaches and leaders have been keeping updated and ready to get out. »» Our centres are making plans as to how they can safely work during COVID-19.

WHAT NEXT? We’re not kicking back just yet; there’s still plenty more for us to do: »» Making sure we keep up with the guidance, as it changes pretty much every day. »» Setting out a safe and responsible plan and guidance for each stage. »» Putting out the correct advice at each stage. »» Getting the coaches ready to spring back into action safely.

REMEMBER »» Let’s make sure we show that paddlers are caring and responsible. Local communities are being cautious and will take time to get used to visitors again. »» Skills fade for us all, and we should be aware of this when we are planning our first full post-lockdown paddle. »» Restrictions may require some inventive ways as to how we can get people paddling, such as social distancing.

THANKS Reading Jet’s feature has made me appreciate all

the work, time and effort the Canoe Wales team put in behind the scenes. It’s really easy to take it for granted and to forget that a lot of the team volunteer their time for free. So from me (and no doubt all CW members) a big thank you to everyone in the CW team.

SPRING 2020

| 17

Q&A

Aberkayakers

Canoe Wales’ Club of the Year

Aberkayakers is an active and fun club based in Aberystwyth, who encourage and enable people of all abilities to get onto the water. Established in 1995 they now have 70 members and run regular club sessions as well as weekends away for surf, sea and river trips. They recently achieved the insport Club Ribbon by Disability Sport Wales and work with community initiatives to provide paddlesport opportunities for groups such as the Scouts, Sea Cadets and Chernobyl Children’s Project. Their dedication to making paddlesport available to everyone was recognised this year when they were named the Canoe Wales Club of the Year. Ceufad caught up with them to find out more …

What disciplines and sessions do you offer?

We are well equipped with boats and currently offer whitewater kayak, open canoe, sea kayak, and SUP. We have winter pool sessions suitable for beginner and intermediate paddlers, as well as casual polo games and rolling training.

On Thursday evenings from Easter to September we hold weekly sessions outdoors and we run regular Sunday trips when water conditions are good. We also have an annual programme of weekend and weeklong trips – including Scotland WW, Alps WW, introduction to WW (at our friends Llandysul Paddlers), and canoe and sea kayak camping trips.

What activity gets the biggest turnout?

Our annual summer barbeque is very well attended – usually between 80 and 100 people catered for and enjoying fun and games in the water.

Occasionally we have had up to 60 paddlers for regular summer evening sessions; paddling on the sea from Aberystwyth harbour – beautiful on a sunny summer evening with the chance to see dolphins or porpoises in the right conditions. Our annual “come and try” day, part of Go Paddling week, has consistently had a great turnout – almost 90 non-members coming along on the day in 2018.

How did it feel being named CW Club of the Year?

We love paddling, introducing new members to paddlesports and developing the skills of our members, so we were very pleased and proud that the long-term commitment of the club was recognised.

18 |

CEUFAD

And achieving the insport Club Ribbon by Disability Sport Wales?

Again, we are really happy that our efforts towards this have been recognised. We have already applied for the insport Bronze award so we’re looking forward to receiving that!

What difference has working towards inclusion made to the club?

It’s always great to have the recognition, and the process has helped us to formalise a few of those pesky policies, but, in fact, we have been working with people of disability for many years. We work hard to be as inclusive as we can and support people to be active and have fun!

What advice would you give other clubs working towards inclusion?

We would encourage clubs to welcome paddlers of all abilities to join their sessions. It is important to have sufficient coaches to support the process, but the most important thing is to not to be afraid of taking on this aspect of the sport – the outcomes are very rewarding for everyone involved.

Also, get involved with local community initiatives: we have enjoyed working with Aberystwyth Starlings – a local group established to support people taking part in a range of activities. We have been involved in a range of community activities for Scouts’ groups, Sea Cadets, Chernobyl Children’s Project and Japanese exchange students.

Apart from your two awards, what are the club’s standout moments?

The club is proud of all the paddlers who have passed through the club. Of course, it is possible to identify stand out paddlers such as

Patrick, Gareth, Chris, Evan and Jâms who have reached very high standards of paddling, competition, guide book authoring and so on … but it seems that engagement with paddlesport when combined with the ethos of our club supports people towards their personal development and success in many different ways.

We have consistently great feedback from our members – that makes us feel good about what we do and encourages us to keep doing it!

Any standout comedy moments?!

Trevor, seal launching a canoe at Llandysul lake, failing miserably then working out why it is not possible? Physics and mechanics.

Phil Stone body surfing Chapel Falls, head down, inflated drysuit legs in the air.

Eleanor apologising whilst skimming over Steve’s upside-down boat with Steve still in it, on the Arkaig.

Bob capsizing at Symonds Yat … after explaining to the group how tricky it was and the best line to take …

Various self-constructed kayaks, canoes and coracles being raced on the Teifi during our annual weekend at Llandysul.

How has the COVID-19 lockdown impacted the club and your members?

All paddling activity has stopped of course which is a great pity as we have had such fantastic weather for our usual springtime programme.

We have used the opportunity to refresh our 3-Year Plan and to discuss opportunities for members to develop as coaches and leaders with a mind to securing the sustainability of the club.

What have you been doing to keep everyone active and involved?

We have made sure that our Facebook group has had plenty of activity and we’ve done a number of email-shots to try to keep members engaged. It has been really good to have regular news from CW to pass on to our members.

What’s in the pipeline – any plans for after lockdown?

Go paddling! We are looking forward to getting our usual activities up and running as soon as we are permitted. We are hoping that we will soon be able to go for out and back trips on the sea locally.

FIND OUT MORE Aberkayakers run pool sessions

across the winter in Plascrug Leisure Centre, and outdoor sessions in the Gravel Pits and Aberystwyth harbour in the spring and summer. They also run trips for sea, surf and whitewater.

Everyone is welcome, from beginners to experienced paddlers. www.aberkayakers.co.uk | Facebook: @Aberkayakers

SPRING 2020

| 19

In June 2019 I set off as part of a 7-member team of university kayakers to explore the rivers of far east Russia. The team included 3 Scottish, 2 English, and Elliot Goddard and myself from Wales.

ARTICLE: CARA LEE

20 |

CEUFAD

SPRING 2020

| 21

IT WAS HANDS DOWN ONE OF THE BEST EXPERIENCES I’VE HAD – GRADE 4 MULTI-DAY PADDLING WITH THE ADDED BONUS OF BEING HUNDREDS OF MILES FROM CIVILIZATION, WHAT MORE COULD YOU WANT!

22 |

CEUFAD

We decided to head to Russia in early season making use of the high water to explore smaller rivers and tributaries (trips in the area usually in August). Over the 6 weeks we completed 3 multi-days, ranging from 3 days to 11 days. We did have other rivers in mind but with the high water, unpredictable weather and committing multidays we had to alter our original plans.

P R E PA R AT I O N We spent months looking into travel logistics, sorting visas and mapping out rivers and potential first descents. »» Flight – S7 Dublin – Moscow – Irkutsk was the most straightforward with kayaks »» Visa – we probably left this a little late, I got my visa 2 days before flying out »» Permit to travel through national park to get to rivers »» Vaccinations RIVER 1: KITOY 11 DAYS, 3 RIVERS (1 FIRST DESCENT) 1300M DESCENT OVER 270KM After a 7-hour drive from our base city Irkutsk in the East Sayan mountain range, we arrived at the get on and filled our boats with gear and food before being left alone in the wilderness. I could barely move the boat and was about to set off on the biggest river I’d paddled. This river had so many challenges along the way, carrying a loaded boat is hard (especially whilst trying to keep up with the

boys). I laughed, I cried (a lot) and I lived for those daily Snickers. It was hands down one of the best experiences I’ve had – grade 4 multi-day paddling with the added bonus of being hundreds of miles from civilization, what more could you want!

HIGHLIGHTS: »» Tank ride and sharing drinks with locals. »» Continuous big waves and huge whitewater. »» Lots of suffering – Russian trails are more like animal paths with lots of fallen trees, it made hiking with a boat an emotional experience (definitely type 2 fun). The Biluti trib is a beautiful river but takes a day and a half to hike to the start. »» Electric thunderstorms and hail. »» Overnight 115km paddle-out with shooting stars and an amazing sunrise. »» No bears (although the locals were surprised we hadn’t seen any, big colourful boats probably scared them away). »» Google translate saving the day, every day there was a big language barrier meaning we used it to communicate most of the time.

Locals outside the city spoke little English but were friendly and always keen to talk.

RIVER 2: ZHOMBOLOK PARK AND PLAY Stopover to wait for the rivers to drop after too much rain. Another long drive from the city, this time needing an old soviet military truck to get to the river.

We decided to hike up the river to find out why people didn’t paddle the top section, it turned out to be another ‘trail’ with some more suffering.

Once on the top section we spent most of the time getting in and out of boats dodging fallen trees.

However the main section was 4km of big boofs, surf waves and endless fun laps.

RIVER 3: URIK BIG WATER GORGES The Urik had 2 main gorges of big whitewater with fun eddy hopping in between. Another steep hike up a tributary to find a waterfall, this time taking 2 boats between us to lighten the load (the run out was too rocky to paddle). I’d learnt to pack lighter by this trip but that was cancelled out by packing far too much food, but this let us have a few relaxed days life-styling by the river.

CHECK OUT the trip videos on Facebook:

British Universities Kayak Expedition 2019 Keep an eye on the British Universities Kayaking Expeditions Facebook page to be part of BUKE 2021: @uniyaker

SPECIAL THANKS TO

Palm Equipment, Radical Rider, Dewerstone, SystemX, Benrhos Ltd, Bala Rotary Club and Queens University Belfast

SPRING 2020

| 23

Meet the Chappells The Chappells are a true paddling family. Nia and Alan (parents) have been paddling since they were children, and are now an integral part of Welsh Slalom. Raoul (elder son) and Eti (younger son), followed in their parents’ paddling footsteps, starting out young and both taking up slalom at an early age. Raoul found his calling in C1, whilst for Eti it was K1. Eti enjoyed one of his most successful years last year; winning his first international medal and being named the BBC/Sport Wales Young Sports Personality of the Year, and is currently ranked 3rd in Premier K1. There’s been a lot of time on the water for this family, plus training sessions, race weekends, full-time jobs, school, university … and ‘normal’ family life. Ceufad wanted to find out how this paddling family manages to fit it all in, and cope with the pressures of training, competition and family relationships.

So, we arranged two interviews, one with the Nia and Alan, and one with Eti to find out more …

the parents:

Nia & Alan

A day at the beach 2008.

We tried to keep racing as a fun pastime as long as we could. Race weekends were spent camping, making new friends, climbing trees, falling in the river and generally messing about. They loved it and so did we.

24 |

CEUFAD

How did you get into paddling?

Nia – I have two older brothers who learnt with the Scouts so I was the annoying little sister wanting to join in. I was about 6. However, my main sport was swimming; I swam for the City of Cardiff and retired during A-levels. I then got more into paddling through Venture Scouts. At Uni I spent my book bursary on my first plastic kayak! Pre-children I paddled a little whitewater and coached a lot for South Wales Scouts. I only started slalom when the boys did.

Alan – I joined the school canoe club when I was 12½. I had problems with my knee when I was in school so no contact sports but canoeing and canoe slalom kept me active. Since then it’s mainly been slalom, whitewater river trips and surfing.

Did you introduce your children to paddlesport, and was that the only sport?

The boys were introduced to paddling as a pastime not a sport at a young age, mostly during time spent at my parents’ caravan in Ceredigion; paddling on the sea and trips from Cilgeran on the Teifi.

Other than that the boys both swam competitively with the then Torfaen Swim Squad and enjoyed competing for the team in galas. Whatever they were going to end up doing I saw it as vital they were strong swimmers. They both tried Kempo kick boxing, Eti couldn’t take the formality of the martial art but Raoul went on to achieve his junior black belt age 14. Raoul joined Croesyceiliog Rugby Club and Eti Cwmbran Town Football. Both enjoyed their team sports. After a couple of years Eti joined the rugby club as well as, it was hard for us as parents being in two places at the same time. Eti quit rugby when he decided it was too much of a risk to his shoulders and therefore his paddling, which was about the same time Raoul quit due to GCSE workloads. Swimming was next to be dropped, as the boys didn’t like early morning training – I wasn’t sorry about that! Swimming had made them super fit. So they then both gradually focused on slalom.

Were you pleased your children got into paddling, and did you expect them to take it so seriously?

We were very pleased our boys have become paddlers. It’s a fantastic community and lifestyle.

That they would take it so seriously? No! We didn’t expect paddling to be much more than messing about in boats.

When we started paddling it was a family-time activity we all enjoyed. When the boys were old enough and swam strongly enough we joined Croesyceiliog Canoe Club in Newport. At Croesy they tried freestyle and polo and after a while we all had a go at slalom in the pool with Russell Scaplehorne. We really enjoyed it. As time moved on and slalom training became available with Seren Dŵr at CIWW, both boys gravitated to the excitement of the whitewater.

We tried to keep racing as a fun pastime as long as we could. Race weekends were spent camping, making new friends, climbing trees, falling in the river and generally messing about. They loved it and so did we. When it came to the racing part of the weekend we used to say ‘put your race head on’ to ask the boys to focus a few minutes before their race and then to ‘paddle fast and have fun’.

The rest of the time was just playtime.

Things got a bit more serious towards the top end of Division 1 when promotion points came into the mix but fun was still had between runs.

Both the boys committed to the training and enjoyed it whatever the weather so long as they were on the water. Sometimes there would be a lot of moaning before but once they were on the water they were happy.

Were there any weekends when you were all racing? How did you manage this?

Not that often, as all four of us were very seldom in the same divisions. Buying a kayak trailer was the first move, especially when we added C2 into the mix with Raoul’s partner Steele Jones. Raoul

Raoul – Bourg St Maurice.

KIM JONES

Raoul coaching an 8 year old Eti at an early race at Langham farm 2009. and Eti tried C2 but that just led to arguments!

My biggest worry was always them getting to the start line on time, beyond that there’s nothing you can do. As the boys progressed to bigger water we stopped paddling and developed our pit crew role. I started judging and later section judging, as I love watching everyone paddle. We tried to make sure the boys managed their own kit on the weekends (other than hanging it to dry). They also carried their own boats and learnt how to tie them on the trailer or car.

Were there any challenges with Eti and Raoul both racing, did they need different types of support?

The boys are very different. Raoul is an analyst; he studied other paddlers, made race plans and could be very self-critical of his racing – if only a tiny part of his race plan didn’t happen he would like to discuss it at length. A younger Eti would just wing it and make it happen. If it didn’t he would just say he knew how to do it right next time and refuse to talk about it further. He still doesn’t discuss his races with us but thankfully he does with his coaches.

Did you ever coach your children and, if so, how did you balance the role of parent and coach?

Ha ha – we tried! Our efforts were usually met with looks of disdain, even after we redid our coaching qualifications, including the slalom coach module.

So we just stuck to parenting.

Once they had established coaches, Russell, Nigel Midgely and then the many great Welsh Squad coaches, we tried to back off as much as possible from that role.

Was the balance of training and schoolwork ever an issue, and if it was, how did you manage this?

In hindsight we didn’t really. Raoul was quite studious and worked hard at school. Eti was never meant for the classroom, he won’t mind me saying but once he moved to comprehensive he was heading off the rails. We are so grateful for the paddling as it gave him the focus and self-discipline to finish his schooling.

How has your relationship and role with Eti developed as he’s progressed through the ranks?

Initially we were just Mum and Dad supporting our boys in the sport they loved. Later this was mixed with a little frustration with his reluctance to review or analyse his performance. Now we trust him to make the right choice for him. At domestic races we make sure his race day food choices are available and leave him to it. He will usually come to speak to us afterwards when he is ready. We still like to attend as many races as possible to support him but know he is capable without us.

Eti winter training at Lee Valley.

To quote Richard Lee, Performance Coach in the early days for the boys: ‘Life isn’t fair. Others will always have a better boat, more water time, better water etc. You have to focus on what you do have and make the best of it.’

What are your proudest moments?

There have been many for both the boys. Both have represented GB: Raoul in whitewater racing and Eti in slalom and extreme slalom. We have got to travel all over the UK and Europe because of them. If we had to pick one event it would have to be last year’s BBC/Sport Wales Young Sports Personality of the Year. He is an amazing ambassador for the sport and it was the culmination of an amazing year for him.

However, I’m probably most proud with how they have grown up through the sport. They have won

SPRING 2020

| 25

First go in C2 in 2009 at Langham farm.

Eti aged 5 on an open boat trip on the Wye.

TIPS FOR PIT CREW PARENTS: »» Make sure they shower really well after paddling at HPP, and wash their hands and your hands after handling kit. »» Dettol Laundry sanitiser gets that river smell out of thermals/boardies. »» Don’t buy brand new boats until they are good enough not to break them / have stopped growing. »» Learn how to fix boats.

Not hard and so handy. »» On winter training camps you can’t beat noodles.

the son:

Etienne ADAM P. FOTO

Eti taking 3rd at the Junior European Champs 2019.

26 |

CEUFAD

events with humility and lost with good grace and moved on … well after a 5-minute private meltdown!

They both give back to paddling where they are able, supporting those coming up through the sport. We just love it when somebody comes to tell us how their child has enjoyed paddling with or being coached by our boys.

What advice would you give to parents of aspiring young athletes? »» Keep it fun. »» Appreciate the small wins. »» Realise this will become your lifestyle as well as theirs. »» It’s not a cheap sport but you don’t have to buy anything new to start off with. »» Be present but not overbearing. »» Talk to your fellow paddle parents; they will soon become your paddle family. »» 20-minute exclusion zone away from your child at the end of a run, good or bad. »» Make them carry their own boat(s). If you really have to carry something for them take the paddle.

Raoul playing rugby.

What are your biggest wins and achievements?

Last year I won the Extreme Slalom at the Lee Valley World Cup and I won my first ever international medal for slalom at the Junior Europeans. The Europeans is probably one of the most memorable ones; knowing that all the hard work has paid off. I was also the BBC/Sport Wales Young Sports Personality of the Year, which is probably my proudest moment. It’s definitely one that I will treasure forever and the fact that I got to share it with my parents as well was really good.

How was it growing up in a paddling family?

Honestly, I can’t think of a better way to grow up.

I was given a gift; I had such good parents that were into an amazing sport and who had the energy and the passion to push me through it. Which I’m really grateful for. So, growing up, I think it was possibly the best thing that could have happened!

How long have you been paddling?

Since I was about 3. The earliest memory of me paddling was in the canoe with my parents; picking my paddle up, putting it in front of me, letting it float past, and then picking it up again … and dropping it every now and then to annoy them.

And sleeping in the bottom of the canoe!

Was paddling always your main sport?

There were a few other sports. Every kid plays football and rugby, so I played those for local teams in Cwmbran. And I also swam for the county, Torfaen. I did those throughout most of my childhood and then canoeing gradually became more and more of a thing. I think that one day I just decided that rugby was injuring me too much and that I wanted to follow canoeing more.

Swimming was good for my fitness, but I wanted to go paddling more than I wanted to swim!

How did you get into paddling and slalom?

I got into paddling through my parents; they did it when they were kids, and I got into it through them.

Gradually it became less of a hobby and more of my life. I started doing slalom when I was around 7.

What are the main ways your parents have supported you as an athlete?

They’ve funded me, they’ve travelled around everywhere, they’ve wasted their weekends ... it’s pretty hard to sum it up. They’ve done everything to en-

Raoul and Eti playing polo for Croesyceiliog.

ADAM P. FOTO

Eti on the podium at the Junior Euro Champs 2019.

Eti playing football.

sure that I can be the best that I can. I know it’s not a cheap sport, and I’m forever in their debt for it.

What was it like training & racing with your brother?

It was tough! Because when we were younger he was a lot better than me. We used to do C2 but that was very short-lived; we’re brothers and we clash heads! We didn’t really do much training or racing together because when I started to catch up in K1 he found his passion for C1. Obviously paddling together every now and then is really nice, and it’s good to have a catch up.

How was has the relationship with your parents developed as your progressed through the ranks?

I think at the beginning they just wanted me to be me and to have fun. Obviously as I got a little bit better they got a bit more serious about it and they wanted me to push to be the best that I could, which sometimes I fed off and sometimes I didn’t.

They learnt from very early on that sometimes if I mess up, I need 5 minutes to get over it. They have always been very big believers in ‘once you’ve messed up you can’t really change it’, so that’s one of the big lessons that they taught me. And I’ll definitely keep that for the rest of my life. There’s no point dwelling on the past; you can have 5 minutes of being mad about it. I feel like we’ve definitely become closer as a family, because there have been moments where I’ve been pretty rough and not wanted to train or not wanted to paddle and they’ve helped me push through it.

When have you been really grateful that your parents have been there?

Everyday. There’s no other way to put it. They’ve supported me the whole way and I think the fact

BBC/Sport Wales Young Sports Personality of the Year. that they were there when I won my medals was a big thing. Seeing the look on your parent’s face is probably one of the hardest things to do; they will never be disappointed in you, they’ll always be disappointed for you, because they know how well you can do. And sometimes that doesn’t work out. But when you hit a goal or you make a medal, it’s such a big thing to see how happy your parents are for you. That’s the best. Also, when I was terrified at the BBC/Sport Wales Sports Personality of the Year, I looked back at them and I knew everything was OK. What advice would you give parents of aspiring young athletes?

Let them be them. I know it’s hard, and I know you want to help, but sometimes you just need that space. I’ve seen a lot of parents come through canoeing; some push their kids too much and they just gave up on it. Others don’t do enough with their kids. I’ve been very fortunate that my parents have had a very equal mix with it. It’s a tough one, but definitely let them be them. Push them as much as you can, but at the end of the day they’re only going to do what they want to do.

Seeing the look on your parent’s face is probably one of the hardest things to do; they will never be disappointed in you, they’ll always be disappointed for you, because they know how well you can do.

And sometimes that doesn’t work out.

What advice would you give aspiring young athletes on managing their relationship with their parents?

Similar advice! Respect them; most of the time they will have funded you, driven you or helped you to get somewhere. Just saying thank you is enough to show your appreciation. Don’t get mad at them. I know that getting a touch or missing a gate can be a life-changing thing (and I know that better than some) but it isn’t their fault. As soon as you get off the water, the race is over. Family is family. Nothing needs to get in the way of that.

SPRING 2020

| 27

© freevectormaps.com

DESTINATION WALES In this new Ceufad series Canoe Wales’ coaches and guides give you the insider info on their local coastal and inland waters. They pick three trips; sheltered/flatwater, moderate/moving water and advanced/whitewater, and give you the low-down on access, highlights and top tips.

This is the guide to some of the best coastal and inland paddling spots that Wales has to offer, and may just introduce you to a new paddling destination.

In this article Pembrokeshire-based Sea Kayak Guides share their three favourite sea trips along the stunning Pembrokeshire coast, and Llangollen-based Ray Goodwin takes you away from the usual suspects of the Dee and the Tryweryn to three inland gems.

If you’re a Canoe Wales’ coach or guide and would like to share your favourite coastal or inland trips drop us a line at ceufad@canoewales.com

PEMBROKESHIRE SEA KAYAKING At the merging point between the Irish Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, Pembrokeshire boasts world class sea-kayaking conditions. Atlantic ground-swells combine with strong tidal flows to create exhilarating tide races whilst sculpting a diverse and attention grabbing coastline with conditions for all abilities. From sheltered coves to offshore islands, classic surf to fierce tidal races, stunning cliffs to sandy beaches, Pembrokeshire really does have it all!

In addition to the stunning landscape Pembrokeshire has incredible wildlife. Highlights include Atlantic grey seals, harbour porpoise, dolphins, peregrine falcons and otters which can all be seen year round. In addition to these local residents the area receives seasonal visits from puffins, Manx shearwaters, razorbills and guillemots in their thousands. The occasional sunfish, killer whale (among others), sharks and leatherback turtles all create an incredible wildlife watching destination! Travelling by sea kayak will give you access to the most remote stretches of the Pembrokeshire coastline and maximise your chances of a memorable wildlife encounter.

The nature of the coastline and the fact that it is split into two peninsulas enables paddlers to choose their preferred routes depending on the weather forecasts and sea conditions.

In the following article we have tried to paint a picture of some of our favourite sections of the Pembrokeshire coast whilst highlighting points of interest. This is only a brief introduction and as such you should only embark on these trips once you have gathered all the relevant information.

SUGGESTED TRIPS It is essential to remember that ALL of the following trips are exposed to Atlantic swell and weather systems and as such even the most straightforward trip on paper can become a serious undertaking once on the water! An up-to-date weather and swell forecast in addition to a sound understanding of tidal movements is crucial for planning; conditions can change very quickly and often do.

If unsure it may be worth checking your route choice with more experienced friends/club members or even local sea kayak coaches/guides.

Of course the best way to learn is to enrol on a course with one of the many great coaches based around our wonderful British coastline.

28 |

CEUFAD

2

Abercastle

Abereiddy

Ramsey

Letterston

St Davids Porthclais Solva

1

St Brides Bay

Skomer

A40

3

A40

Haverfordwest

Narberth

Martin’s Haven Milford Haven © freevectormaps.com

GRADE The following suggested trips have been defined as follows: Sheltered - little or no tidal influence and regular landing opportunities.

Moderate - some exposure to tidal streams, longer periods without access/egress points.

Advanced - complex tidal streams, tide races and overfalls, difficult landings, open crossings, long distances without the possibility of landings.

SEA KAYAK GUIDES are based in the stunning

Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, Sea Kayak Guides deliver bespoke high quality guided experiences for novice right through to expert paddlers. Our team are some of the most experienced and well-regarded coaches in the UK, offering informal coaching as well as a wide range of British Canoeing qualification courses.

Drawing on years of kayaking and coaching experience across Europe and beyond, our guides will tailor make a course to meet your individual needs and aspirations. Bring your own boat or choose from our comprehensive fleet, we offer a complete range of high quality equipment should you need it.

Find out more at www.seakayakguides.co.uk

USEFUL RESOURCES

THE MARINE CODE

OS Explorer Map OL35 North Pembrokeshire OS Explorer Map OL36 South Pembrokeshire Imray Chart C60 Gower Peninsula to Cardigan Sea Kayaking Guide to Pembrokeshire and Ceredigion by Raymond and Susan Griffiths, Nige Robinson Welsh Sea Kayaking by Jim Krawiecki and Andy Biggs Milford Haven tide table (Pembrokeshire Marine Code produce tide tables which include the Marine code maps)

Most of the Pembrokeshire coastline is privately owned, and protected for both its landscape and wildlife. The Pembrokeshire Marine Code encourages users to show respect and consideration for the marine environment, land owners, wildlife and other users when out exploring the coast and offshore areas of Pembrokeshire. Developed by local user groups alongside the Pembrokeshire Coast National park Authority and the RSPB, the code sets out guidelines to ensure the long-term sustainable management of the area. In recognising that sustainability must be a key theme in marine recreational activities and education, all local boat operators (including sea kayak schools), have signed up to follow the Code of Practice.

The Marine Code Map is a free leaflet which clearly highlights areas of seasonal activity and corresponding access restrictions. When planning a journey around the Pembrokeshire coastline it is highly recommended sea kayakers familiarise themselves with the map so as to prevent disturbance to wildlife and support the conservation efforts in the area.

This and more information about Pembrokeshire’s wildlife can be found on the Marine Code website at: www.pembrokeshiremarinecode.org.uk

SHELTERED 1

Porthclais to Solva

Start: SM 740 241 – Porthclais Finish: SM 805 243 – Solva Distance / time: 8km / 1.5 hrs–full day This trip along the south-facing coast of the peninsula is a classic for those who enjoy rock hopping and exploring. It is well sheltered from northerly winds although exposed to the prevailing SW swell.

Exercise caution in strong offshore winds and larger ground swells.

Porthclais harbour is owned by The National Trust and managed by the local boat owners, there are two car parks, toilets and a cafe (summer only). There is a charge (currently £1 per kayak) for launching which should be paid at the harbour masters shed.

HIGHLIGHTS St Non’s bay Legend states that St David (the patron saint of Wales) was born in the ruined chapel above the bay (St Non being his mother). As you head east from here keep your eyes open for Cathedral Cave; a large and aptly named through-cave in the back of the bay.

Caerfai bay At low water this boasts a beautiful sandy beach which is accessed by a steep path from the car park and campsites on the cliff tops above.

Caerbwdy bay A pebble beach and a path which gives access to a minor road. The old quarry behind the beach is where much of the stone used to build St David’s Cathedral was sourced back in the 14th century.

Porth Y Rhaw (Nine Wells) Here you can see the wrecks of three tug boats. Local stories tell us these were sunk during a big storm in 1981 and that all crew survived, scrambling up the shale cliffs to safety.

One of the wrecks remains almost complete, the entire hull visible although broken in half and the huge engine block fully exposed as the tide drops.

Solva harbour The harbour itself is well hidden, the entrance marked

by Black Rock. If you arrive at low water there is a long carry (or drag up the stream) to the car park. Don’t be tempted to stop at the first slipway as this is privately owned and you will be charged. The top slipway is free to use although there is a charge for parking through the summer. Solva is a pretty village with a good selection of cafes, pubs, shops, and restaurants. There is a regular bus service to St David’s (and Porthclais).

SPRING 2020

| 29

MODERATE 2

Abereiddy to Abercastle

Start: SM 797 312 – Abereiddy Finish: SM 852 336 – Abercastle Distance / time: 10km / 2hrs–full day This is a real Pembrokeshire gem. It combines everything a competent sea kayaker could wish for; a beautiful remote feeling stretch of coastline with interesting tidal features, stunning scenery and plenty of wildlife and history.

HIGHLIGHTS Abereiddy A popular bay on the North of the St David’s peninsula, it has a grey sandy beach (covered at high water), car park, toilets and a tea/ice cream van during the summer. The beach can produce good waves, particularly at low water. It is probably best known for the Blue Lagoon; a flooded slate quarry, now one of Pembrokeshire’s most popular coasteering and cliff jumping venues. A through-cave winds its way through the headland after the lagoon, known locally as the Worm Hole, it can be paddled through but only on low spring tides. The tower above is thought to be a 19th century navigation beacon although a more romantic explanation is that the quarry manager had it built as somewhere he could eat lunch with his wife away from the rough and ready workers.

Traeth Llyfn bay This bay boasts some spectacular cliffs, fantastic rock hopping and a beautiful sandy beach. The beach can be accessed from the coast path by a steep flight of metal steps; the original steps were apparently built by Italian prisoners of war in the 1940’s. Leaving the bay you paddle past the small islands of Carrig Gwylan or Barry Island as it’s locally known. A tide race forms both sides of the islands and, with a little wind, overfalls can form on the seaward side and in the channel between the islands and the main land. The next two bays of Porth Egr and Porth Dwfn offer some shelter from the tide but tide races form off their headlands.

Penclegyr Often the crux point on this stretch of coastline with some fun or intimidating wave trains possible, depending on your skill level. There is an obvious channel and a less obvious cave through Penclegyr headland which can be used to bypass the overfalls. To the east you will pass a disused quarry before seeing the white stone columns which mark the entrance to Porthgain harbour.

30 |

CEUFAD

Porthgain As you paddle into the harbour you are immediately struck by the industrial history of the village. Now a popular place with tourists the harbour has a pub and a well-renowned fish restaurant as well as public toilets and a car park. The coastal bus also stops here to take you St David’s or Fishguard.

Abercastle The paddle from Porthgain to Abercastle has some particularly beautiful bays with spectacular high cliffs, caves, natural arches, channels, storm beaches and a waterfall. It’s worth giving yourselves some extra time on this section to take advantage of the fantastic rock hopping; whilst considering the tide races that form off the headlands of Trwyn Llwyd, Pen Castell-coch and the island of Ynys Deullyn. Parking is very limited and every effort should be made to minimise impact by paddlers (groups are asked to leave only one vehicle in the car park), it is free to park but there is a launch/landing fee of £1 per kayak which should be paid into the honesty box by the slipway. There are also public toilets here during the summer season.

ADVANCED 3

Skomer Island

Start: SM 760 091 – Martin’s Haven Finish: SM 760 091 – Martin’s Haven (round trip) Distance / time: 12km / 2hrs–full day Skomer Island lies off to the West of the Dale peninsula, the island is owned by the West Wales Wildlife Trust and managed by the RSPB as a National Nature Reserve. It has particular importance as a breeding ground for puffins and Manx shearwaters. 40% of the world population of Manx shearwaters breed on Skomer and neighbouring Skokholm. Other wildlife highlights include peregrine falcons, shorteared owls, choughs and the occasional otter. The waters around the island are designated as a Marine Nature Reserve with special importance for marine fauna.

Landing on the island is only permitted at the harbour in North Haven; a passenger ferry operates through the summer carrying day and overnight visitors. There is self-catering accommodation at the recently converted old farmhouse; this can be booked through the West Wales Wildlife Trust.

Skomer is affected by several different tidal streams, as a result it is virtually impossible to get tidal assistance throughout the whole trip. Much of the island is also exposed to Atlantic swell, add to this the lack of landing options and you have a very committing trip.

HIGHLIGHTS Martin’s Haven The usual starting point is a small cove at the end of the Marloes road. There is a sheltered shingle beach, car park (pay & display), information centre, toilets and a good campsite.

Jack Sound A relatively short paddle from Martin’s Haven where you will encounter the first of the island’s tide races; reaching over 6 knots on spring tides. Much of the sound is shallow with numerous rocks and ledges creating an ever changing series of eddies and overfalls.

Midland Isle Separated from Skomer itself by Little Sound, at 100m wide it is much narrower than Jack Sound. At the right state of tide this becomes a fantastic play spot with large surfable standing waves and big eddies to rest in.

South Haven A deep-set bay with a shingle beach, it is overlooked by a hill fort and provides a sheltered anchorage for passing yachts.

The Mew Stone A large rock island just off the South end of Skomer, alive with seabirds during the breeding season and should be given a wide berth to avoid causing disturbance. When birds, tide and swell allow it is possible to pass inside the rock where a fun surf wave can form. It is wise to assess conditions carefully before passing The Mew Stone as they will often change dramatically beyond this point and the tide can prevent retreat.

The Wick The sheer cliffs on the south of this gully house the biggest concentration of razorbills and guillemots on the island; as such the area is closed to all boats including kayaks (except in August).

The Garland Stone The tide races past both sides of The Garland Stone, often forming overfalls, particularly on the seaward side. Smaller surfable waves can form on the island side at certain states of tide or during a large swell; this is your last chance to play in the tide before reaching the more sheltered northeast coast and North Haven bay.

North Haven A large sheltered bay is the only permitted landing spot on the island. Huge numbers of guillemots, razorbills and puffins congregate here during breeding season, often rafted on the water

in their thousands. It is also popular with seals which often rest on Rye Rocks to the northeast and the beach at the back of the bay in large numbers. Access is prohibited to the south and east of the bay from 1st August until the end of November to protect the seal pups.

Kayakers should stick to the west coast, passing the jetty to land at the slipway in the SW corner of the bay. 100m up the track from the slipway is an information board and viewing spot. If you wish to explore beyond this point you’ll need to pay the landing fee and receive a safety talk from one of the wardens.

The section between North Haven and Little Sound can be very busy with nesting and rafting birds as well as seals during their respective breeding seasons, care should be taken to minimise disturbance.

SPRING 2020

| 31

BALA, BARMOUTH AND THE VYRNWY The Afon Dyfrdwy (Dee) and the Tryweryn are for many the obvious ‘names’ in this area but there is far more. For the canoeist or touring kayaker then Llyn Tegid and the Mawddach Estuary are great days out and can provide their own adventures. Then there is the lesserknown gem of the Afon Vyrnwy on the south side of the Berwyn Mountains; a real gem of an adventure. I have no idea how many times I have been on each of these, but I still relish and look forward to them.

A494

1

A470

wy

d yfr nD

e)

(De

Bala Afo gid Te

n Lly Llanuwchllyn A494

n Afo dach wd Ma Barmouth Pen- Dolgellau A470 maenpool A487 Fairbourne

2

A458

Af on

3

Pontrobert Vy Dolanog Meifod rnw y

© freevectormaps.com

RAY GOODWIN MBE Is one of the UK’s best-known

and foremost canoe coaches. A British Canoeing Level 5 coach in canoe, inland kayak and sea, Ray has over 30 years experience coaching and guiding both in the UK and overseas. Based in the Dee Valley he is a regular feature on his local waterways, with students, friends or family. He offers tailor-made coaching and guiding as well as British Canoeing courses. This year he was invited onto the National Council of the Canadian Canoe Museum.

Find out more at: www.raygoodwin.com Videos of all these trips (and much more!) can be found on Ray’s Youtube channel:www.youtube.com/c/RayGoodwinCanoe

FLATWATER 1

Llyn Tegid

Access #1: SH 902 321 – Llangower car park (launch & parking fee) Access #2: SH 928 350 – Road near Bala Sailing Club Access #3: SH 920 355 – Foreshore car park, Bala Distance: Various – Llyn Tegid is 5km from end to end This is the place I have had so many adventures. I have seen my daughter do her first solo canoe trip the length of the lake, been there in mirror calm, at night, navigated in thick fog, blasted down its length in a big blow and broken ice on its shores to get to clear water. This is a lake where I have seen it in all its moods and it never disappoints. I love exploring the upper reaches of the Dyfrdwy (Dee) as it enters the lake at its south-western end, often poling up until we are below the Roman fort of Caer Gai. TRIP OPTIONS You can of course start from the foreshore car park in Bala and make you way to the far end and explore the rivers that flow into it before returning. But often that option will have you paddling against the prevailing wind for half a day. So often I will start from Llangower and make my way to the south west end, with a bit of exploration, before either returning to Llangower or, if there is a good wind, running down to the Bala end by sail or paddle. The level of the lake is controlled by massive sluices on the Afon Dyfrdwy (Dee) just after the exit from the lake. In times of flooding lower down the catchment, water is held back in Llyn Tegid and can be well up into the fields. It is worth bearing in mind that the water is extremely cold all the way through to the summer.

HIGHLIGHTS The views to the north and Arenig Fawr, or southwest to Aran Benllyn are stunning. I love exploring the rivers that enter it at the southwest end and these vary greatly according to rainfall and the level of the lake. I have seen otter at the south end and rumour has it

32 |

CEUFAD

that you may catch a glimpse of Teggie, our very own version of the Loch Ness Monster. Mind there are some big pike in the depths.

LOCAL TOP TIPS There are two good campsites on Llyn Tegid: Llangower Campsite SH 904 324 www.balacamping.co.uk Glanllyn Campsite SH892 322 www.glanllyn.com Lots of good choices on eating places in Bala but also the Eagles at Llanuwchllyn at the other end of the lake.

A map of the Bala Lake Canoe Trail, which includes details of access points, facilities, etc. can be downloaded from www.gobala.org

MOVING WATER 2

Mawddach Estuary

Start: SH 615 147 – the spit at Fairbourne (Barmouth is an option) Finish: SH 693 183 – Penmaenpool Distance: 10km, one way A Victorian artist and critic said the view from the north shore of the estuary was one of the three finest in the world and who am I to disagree. So stunning views of Cadair Idris to the south and Diffwys and the Rhinogs to the north. To slide up the estuary on an incoming spring tide is an absolute delight. This is one of the gems of North Wales and a great day out.

High tide is around an hour later than Barmouth at Penmaenpool.

On a spring tide it is fast with a current of around 7 km/hour at the railway bridge at Barmouth: keep and eye on any inexperienced paddlers here. If you are launching at Fairbourne spit you may even be against the tide until you enter the main estuary. If the winds are light it is a great day out to do the round trip but most times I will do it one way. Coming from Penmaenpool it is easy to miss the channel as the water drops and end up doing a bit of wading. The map isn’t a lot of good as the channel regularly changes.

HIGHLIGHTS Stunning views. Lots of birds and the occasional cows having a wade to cool down.

LOCAL TOP TIPS If you finish at Penmaenpool then a visit to the George III is a must for beer, coffee or a meal. Great beaches at Fairbourne and Barmouth for kids. Dolgellau has plenty of places to eat or shop: there is a baker just off the main square that does honey buns, amongst much else, they are personally recommended.

WHITEWATER 3

River Vyrnwy

Start #1: Start #2: Start #3: Finish: Distance:

SJ 017 190 – Vyrnwy dam SJ 032 154 – Pont Llogel (my normal starting point) SJ 068 127 – Dolanog SJ 107 126 – Pontrobert Pont Llogel to Pontrobert 10km (from the dam add 7km)

If you want an adventure this is it. It has a much more remote feeling than many other North Wales rivers as the road moves far away for much of its length. Even for me it still evokes that adventure with a need for constant vigilance due to tree blockages but this all adds to its wildness. The section down under the bridges at Dolanog it just great fun. At this point there is a portage around the weir with the get out close to the lip on river right. And the weir stands on the lip of a big waterfall so is a bit obvious. After Dolanog the river enters the gorge and for a short distance there is plenty of interest with several drops. In canoe I would give the main drop a 3+ and in big water it approaches a 4 for all. In kayak it is simple enough. It is always a good day when I paddle the Vyrnwy.

Generally I will start at the Pont Llogel car park. You can start at the dam but I wouldn’t recommend that on your first trip unless you have plenty of time.

Immediately after the bridge in Pontrobert there is a tiny path that squeezes up to the parking area on river right. Please be discrete and respectful here. I have never known anything but friendly interest from the locals so please help us keep it that way.

LOCAL TOP TIPS Not far from the finish is the village of Meifod on the A495 (if people are heading south or east you pass close to here); the King’s Head is good for beer, coffee or meals. A great place to chill after the trip.

SPRING 2020

| 33

The Canoe People of Patagonia Part 1 – The Yagán

A R T I C L E : K AT H M C N U LT Y

Beagle Channel.

“

The Yagán are one of the original people of South America; sea nomads, travelling in bark canoes along the coast of southern Chile. Kath McNulty shares her journey through their territory and explores their history.

I am awake. The first weak rays of autumn sun stream into our hut. My two children are already up and tending the fire. They are good hardworking little ones, he was born six summers ago and she nine.

Yesterday my husband’s cousin and his wife arrived, they are hardy people from the west, where there are no trees and too much rock. We have some food but I will need to gather more. I watch my daughter, she will be strong. Her name is of the place where she was born, it is a beautiful little bay where food is plentiful. That is the way of our tribe, we take the name of the place where we are born, I suppose it connects us to somewhere because all our lives we move about in our canoes, every night a different place. Later she and I will dive for the large mussels and for the red king crabs which are so delicious.

The water is still warm (author: 5˚ C) from the heat of the summer but soon it will get cold and she will have to get used to it, it is her duty. In our tribe, only the women dive, the

34 |

CEUFAD

skill is passed from mother to daughter. The men would be useless in the water, they have no idea about swimming! But from a canoe, some of them are fine hunters, my husband is amongst the best! They use bows and arrows, harpoons, spears, slingshots and mace, my son is learning fast from his father.

My son returns with more branches for the fire, how he has grown! Soon his fur cloak (author: worn over the top of the back) will be too short. When my husband next hunts otter, I will make him a new one.

Cousin wants my husband to join a whale hunt, it is the great migration and they are leaving our channels and heading east towards the big water, I saw a large group yesterday. The truth is the men are rarely successful and it is so dangerous, our canoes are too light, made from three strips of bark sown together with whale bone, and the whales are so strong. Hopefully one will beach then we will have plenty of food for all our people over the winter.

”

I awoke from my daydreaming. Since I’d heard about the canoe people of Patagonia, I’d often imagined what it must have been like living a near-naked nomadic lifestyle in such a tough environment.

It was late autumn by the time we arrived in Puerto Williams in the far south of Chilean Patagonia in our sailing yacht Caramor. Both Franco and I had suffered back injuries after our trip to South Georgia, delaying our departure from the Falklands. The summer had ended and low pressure after low had kept us in harbour scanning the weather forecast.

By the time a low had passed the Falklands, a new low was over southern Chile. We decided to take the rough at the beginning of our trip so set off in a Force 8, clawing our way out of Port Stanley in big confused seas.

Feeling seasick didn’t spoil our fin whale sighting and we reaped the reward of our madness when we reached Strait Le Maire, off the coast of Argentina, in a flat calm.

The narrow passage is infamous for huge

King crab (we let Henry go).

MARTIN GUSINDE

Cristina Calderón’s father Akačexaninčis (Juan Calderón) is the man standing on the extreme right, and her godmother Gertie, sitting to the right of him. 1922.

Puerto Williams with Dientes de Navarino behind.

Distribution of the pre-Hispanic people in the Southern Patagonia.*

standing waves when wind is over tide and we wondered what all the fuss was about as we ghosted into the Beagle Channel.

Our first few days in Patagonia were spent in wonder, there were trees everywhere, what a contrast to the bleak Falkland Islands. The autumn reds, browns and yellows of the southern beech were magnificent.

As we became more familiar with Puerto Williams, we noticed what seemed to be a self-contained settlement just on the other side of a small stream from the main town.

We learnt that it was Vila Ukika, a Yagán village, population 70, where Cristina Calderon, the last full-blooded Yagán and only native speaker of the language lives. (she will be 92 this year.) One evening the small but excellent museum screened a new documentary about her nephew, Luis Francisco Gomez Zárraga, making a boat using traditional methods and setting off to revisit the important sites of his ancestors. Luis, a huge guy, was at the screening, and he recalled hunting otter as a kid, with his uncle and some epic boat portages across islands.

The Yagán (also known as Yámana) are one of the original people of South America, they were sea nomads, moving around the

extensive maze of channels in bark canoes.

Their territory extended from Strait Le Maire on the Atlantic all the way to the Pacific down to Cape Horn and up to the Strait of Magellan.

Their food came mostly from the sea; fish, shellfish, crab, otter, sea lion, seal and occasionally, whale. They supplemented their diet with birds hunted on shore and herbs and berries they collected. The Yagán moved around in small family units with paternal uncles and aunts also very important as they would look after a child if orphaned and be looked after by nieces and nephews if they didn’t have children of their own. The father was the head of the household. Curiously, their mythology tells of a time when the women ruled but became too bossy and so the men, using cunning, took over, killing all the women except for the small girls. Traditionally they had no chiefs but some members of the community were trained in medical and spiritual powers.

There was no form of organised justice, if a conflict arose, the families of the arguing factions would appease or negotiate. Although property was private, food, huts and canoes were owned by the family. Presents were often given and always had to be reciprocated. (Not necessarily a bonus!)

Wild berries favoured by the Yagán.

The Yagán, c. 1882. © Musée du quai Branly.

If you’ve read Darwin’s ‘Voyage of the Beagle’, then you’ve heard about the Yagán.

Remember Jemmy Button? He was taken hostage by Fitzroy along with York Minster and Fuegia Basket after one of the ship’s boats disappeared. They were brought all the way back to England where they were ‘civilized’ and presented at court in London in the summer of 1831. HMS Beagle eventually returned to Patagonia and landed the three and a young missionary but the latter didn’t stay long as his life was feared for.

Darwin didn’t have a kind word for the Yagán. For a man so open minded, I was surprised how judgemental he had been about the canoe people. I mentioned this to Denis Chevallay, a Swiss friend who has lived in the area for twenty-four years and accumulated a vast knowledge of all things Tierra del Fuego. “Imagine meeting naked people in such a cold climate who stank of seal fat from twenty metres away and were covered in filth. Put yourself in his shoes, he was an English gentleman.” He responded.

Until the missionaries arrived, the Yagán lived naked but for a short fur cape worn over the shoulders and top of the back. Some anthropologists claim that in such a cold wet

*Derivative work: JanitoalevicFile:Tierra del Fuego location map.svg: NordNordWestFile:Pueblos indigenas de Chile-ver.svg: Keysanger / CC BY-SA (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)the Southern Patagonia.

SPRING 2020

| 35

Caramor in Caleta Five Stars. climate, naked was the best way to stay warm, a fire was always burning in the canoe or in the shelter. It is true that when you get back soaking to the house after a day on the rivers or in the hills, the first thing you do is strip off, but then you usually put something warm on.

The Ona, a mountain tribe living just across the Beagle Channel on Tierra del Fuego were always wrapped in huge guanaco (wild relative of the llama) furs except when they were hunting. It seems more likely that furs were hard to come by for the canoe people. Did they feel the cold? No doubt, but they were hardy even if research suggests that their body temperatures was 1˚C warmer than Europeans. Of course, humans acclimatise to their environment, even today the inhabitants of Puerto Williams, not all descendants of the Yagán by any means, walk round in t-shirts mid-winter.

The day after midwinter solstice we set sail, the first part of our 2,000 nautical mile journey took us through a large part of Yagán territory. Although the days were short (it is the same latitude as Cumbria), the weather was settled and we enjoyed frequent cold crisp sunny days. On many mornings we had to break the ice that had formed on the sea around our boat. The ever-changing landscapes were spectacular and I imagined Yagáns paddling down the coast in their canoes. Every night we found a sheltered bay where we dropped the anchor and tied the

36 |

CEUFAD

stern off to the trees on the shore. Wherever there was a beach, more often than not, we found shell middens (piles), started by Yagán families centuries ago and added to by modern day shell fishermen.

After Darwin and the Beagle, missionaries started arriving. A whole new people to convert to Christianity was any budding evangelist’s dream. The first contacts didn’t go well, usually ending with Yagán massacring the whole crew.

Eventually George Despard, an Anglican preacher, accompanied by his family and his 13 year old adopted son Thomas Bridges, arrived in 1855. His approach was more conciliatory and he invited individual Yagán to join him on his boat. Whether they realised he would take them all the way to the Falklands I very much doubt, but over time he set up a small community on Keppel Island where the Yagán were converted and taught English, and young Thomas learnt Yagán.

Four years later Despard’s ship was attacked by a group of Yagán believed to have been led by Jemmy Button. All were killed except the young cook who managed to escape.

Eventually the cook was recaptured and the Yagán plucked his beard out one hair at a time causing the young man considerable distress. The Yagán had very little facial hair and what they did have, they plucked.

Despard hadn’t been aboard but the tragedy

decided him to give up the mission and return to England with his family. Young Yagánspeaking Thomas stayed behind to continue his father’s work. Times were changing, whalers and sealers were already reaching as far as the channels, depleting important food sources for the natives and persecuting family groups, often taking young girls as slaves.

Thomas’ language skills meant that the Yagán accepted him and he helped set up a Yagán settlement on Navarino Island, south of the Beagle Channel. In 1869, with a man named Stirling, he founded a mission where Ushuaia (in Argentina) now is. Thomas cared deeply for his flock and protected them from the encroaching nascent states of Argentina and Chile. Over the years he studied the culture and compiled a Yagán-English dictionary of more than 30,000 words.

It is estimated that the Yagán population was around 3,000 in 1855 and is unlikely to have ever been much higher. By the end of the 19th century, the Yagán had been housed, wore clothes, cultivated potatoes and vegetables and had lost their nomadic way of life. They still made canoes, though the design had changed because the white man’s tools enabled them to hollow out logs, and still hunted otter and seal.

Contact with Europeans was deadly for the Yagán, as it had been for other native Americans, as they had no immunity to common

The Yagán.

J. OJEDA

Yamana woman with basket, 1902.

Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino.

River Robalo – a Yagán favourite.

Thomas Bridges c. 1842.

European diseases. By 1885, the population had already been decimated when a disease broke out in the Ushuaia settlement. It swept through the community killing nearly everyone who caught it. The doctors were mystified, they’d never seen anything like it, moreover it didn’t affect the Europeans.

Eventually, the European women at the settlement diagnosed measles, they recognised an extreme form of what they were used to seeing in their own kids. (The R value for measles is 12–18 compared to the R value for COVID19 which was 2.8 in Wales at the beginning of the epidemic.) Half the Yagán population died, only 500 people remained. By the late 1800s increasing numbers of Europeans had arrived, looking for gold or setting up sheep ranches. Native populations were accused of sheep rustling, giving unscrupulous ranchers an excuse to hunt them down.

As we sailed along the northern arm of the

Beagle Channel, we listened to the weather forecast issued by the Chilean navy: “Pacific swell 6 metres”. By now the shores were increasingly bare rock, any trees reduced to bonsai size. Here too, the Yagán had lived.

In a few days time we would have to round the corner of South America, exposed to the full force of Pacific Ocean weather. The prospect was daunting. Once again we were lucky, the swell dropped, the sun came out and we sailed out of Canal Brecknock into Canal Cockburn in glorious weather. By dusk we pulled into the shelter of Seebrock Island, we were leaving Yagán territory behind and entering the land of another canoe people, the Kaweshkar.

Thomas Bridges retired from the mission in Ushuaia and the Argentinian Government granted him a concession on Gable Island where he started farming. Most of

the remaining Yagán moved to a mission at Wulaia Bay on Navarino Island where a Reverend Williams secured land for them from the Chilean Government. European diseases continued to afflict them badly.

They gradually adopted a more European way of life including intermarrying with Europeans which gave the children immunity.

In 1918 an Austrian priest and ethnologist, Martin Gusinde undertook the first of four research expeditions to Tierra del Fuego. He befriended the Yagán and they shared many of the most secret aspects of their culture with him. It is mostly thanks to him that the Yagán culture has been recorded and a photographic archive exists.

In Part 2 of this feature, pubished in the next issue, Kath jouneys further along the coast, into the land of the Kaweshkar.

SPRING 2020

| 37

PADDLER PROFILE

Emily Davies WELSH SL ALOM EMILY IS 22, LIVES IN NOTTINGHAM, HAS BEEN PADDLING FOR AS LONG AS SHE CAN REMEMBER AND IS CURRENTLY RANKED 5TH IN PREMIER K1 Hometown: Higher Kinnerton

challenge. Edging that comfort zone that

Nationality: Welsh

bit further. The people around you, they

School: Castell Alun

become a second family ... it’s pretty cool!

Club: North Wales Slalom

Favourite UK site: Tryweryn

Favourite food: Pizza

Favourite European site: Bourg St Maurice

Favourite music: Pop, acoustic ... American

Number hours training per week: 10–15

Authors, Sigrid, Lemaitre, Cody Fry ...

Standout moment: Leading the new younger

Where did you start? On the Dee in Llangollen.

paddlers down the Tryweryn. It re-

Why canoeing? It’s fun and gives you a view not

minded me of when I was led down by the

everyone gets to see. It’s also a freedom

performance paddlers and was thinking

thing; an escape from everything that’s go-

how much confidence they had and that I

ing on. When I was finding school difficult it was slalom I always looked forward to. It helped me through school and gave me so many other skills that I still use.

would never be like them – little did I know!

What do you miss about home? Mum’s cooking and Tilly (the dog).

Favourite pastime other than kayaking:

First slalom: Llangollen Div 4

Spending time with friends and family.

Why slalom? First of all it’s fun! I enjoy the

Walking in the mountains, rafting, surfing.

technical, physical and psychological

38 |

CEUFAD

Most influenced by: My family

KIM JONES

“I’VE MISSED MORE THAN 9000 SHOTS IN MY CAREER. I’VE LOST ALMOST 300 GAMES. 26 TIMES, I’VE BEEN TRUSTED TO TAKE THE GAME WINNING SHOT AND MISSED. I’VE FAILED OVER AND OVER AND OVER AGAIN IN MY LIFE AND THAT IS WHY I SUCCEED” – M.J. FAVOURITE SPORTING QUOTE

PADDLER PROFILE

Thomas Abbott WELSH SL ALOM TOM IS 25, LIVES IN CHESHUNT, STARTED KAYAKING IN 2006 AND IS CURRENTLY RANKED 4TH IN PREMIER C1

KIM JONES

Hometown: Caerwys

First slalom: Bala Mill Division 4

Nationality: Welsh

Why slalom: Enjoyment!

School: Currently studying my final year at

Favourite UK site: Lee Valley White Water

the University of Hertfordshire

Centre

Club: Mold Canoe Club

Favourite European site: Bratislava

Favourite food: Aubergine Katsu – Bish Bash

Standout moment: Being told that I was be-

Bosh

Welsh development to Welsh perfor-

Where did you start: In a swimming pool with

mance group.

Mold Canoe Club the sport after going to slalom races for several years, watching him race. I finally gave it a go and have never looked back since.

FAVOURITE SPORTING QUOTE

ing moved up a training squad from the

Favourite music: Fallout Boy

Why canoeing: Followed my brother into

“MAKE EACH DAY YOUR MASTERPIECE”

What do you miss about home: Countryside and peacefulness Favourite pastime other than kayaking: Art and exploring Most influenced by: Richard Lee – my first slalom coach

PROFILES: JONATHAN DAVIES, TALENT PATHWAY OFFICER NEXT ISSUE: WILL CONEY & GABI RIDGE

SPRING 2020

| 39

PARTING SHOT Exploring the coastline near Solva, Pembrokeshire.

Full article p28.

Photo: Sea Kayak Guides