Ceufad Autumn 2020

Issue 144 Autumn 2020 £2.50

ceufadKAYAK CYLCHGRAWN CANŴ CYMRU JOURNAL OF CANOE WALES

BRECON BECKONS

Q&A CLARE RUTTER

THE WORLD’S MOST BEAUTIFUL SEA KAYAK FESTIVAL #SHEPADDLESCYMRU

A TALE OF TWO COASTS

#SHEPADDLESCYMRU IN LLANBERIS CLARE RUTTER

editorial

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here haven’t been many positives to come out of the pandemic (strangely enough), but there have been a couple. One has been a newfound appreciation of what’s on your doorstep. The other has been the huge uptake of outdoor sports, particularly paddlesport.

A shining example of this has been #ShePaddlesCymru, which was launched at the start of lockdown, yet had over 200 participants at its six On Tour events. It’s a remarkable success story, which we had to cover (page 26).

As for the doorstep adventures, Wales has so much to offer, whether that’s on land or on water. To keep it local I headed to the Orme for an end-of-summer paddle with my partner. We had a couple of hours spare after work and the conditions were perfect, so we planned a relaxing bimble around the headland. What we weren’t expecting was a colony of seals who were incredibly playful and inquisitive. Trying to climb on our boats, chewing our paddles and following us all the way to the promenade. We finished in the dark, paddling towards the town, its glittering lights reflected across the bay. It was an incredible journey, and totally unexpected. Wales had delivered again.

Vicky Barlow Editor ceufad@canoewales.com

Ceufad Ed Ceufad

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CEUFAD

@Ceufad

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Ceufad is the official magazine of Canoe Wales. It is produced by members & the views expressed are not necessarily those of Canoe Wales or the magazine’s editor. Ceufad is free to members of Canoe Wales.

SUBSCRIPTIONS are available to non-members for £10 for 4 issues from Canoe Wales.

ADVERTISING For advertising rates contact Vicky on: ceufad@canoewales.com SUBMISSIONS Articles are always welcomed & should be submitted as Word files, however, typed articles are also accepted. Images can be prints or tiff/jpeg/RAW files (preferably 300ppi). These will be returned.

CONTACT ceufad@canoewales.com – 01678 521199 Ceufad, Canoe Wales, Bala, Gwynedd LL23 7NU Ceufad is produced quarterly in Spring (March), Summer (June), Autumn (Sept) and Winter (Dec).

NEXT ISSUE: WINTER DEADLINE: 1ST DECEMBER Ceufad welcomes all contributions but reserves the right to edit & condense to fill the space available.

Design & layout: Vicky Barlow www.victoriabarlow.co.uk

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Canoe Wales News

Info and updates from Canoe Wales

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Q&A Clare Rutter

Chatting with the #ShePaddles Ambassador for Wales

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The Canoe People of Patagonia

Kath McNulty explores the waters and lands of the Kaweshkar

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The World’s Most Beautiful Sea Kayak Festival

A Norwegian sea kayak festival makes a bold claim

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Canoe Wales Team

Meet the people behind Canoe Wales

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Three days on the Si Nakharin Lake

A trip on Thailand’s largest man-made lake

CONTENTS 26 #ShePaddlesCymru

Over 200 paddlers across 6 events; it’s a winning formula

30 Destination Wales: Brecon Beckons

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The insider info on Wales’ best paddling spots

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A Tale of Two Coasts

Exploring the Algarve coastline

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William Coney

Profile of a Welsh Slalom paddler

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Gabi Ridge

Profile of a Welsh Slalom paddler

COVER

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VICKY BARLOW

THE ALGARVE

PETE CATTERALL

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CANOE WALES – OUR TEAM Jen Browning CEO

CANOE WALES WELCOMES ALISTAIR TO THE TEAM

MEMBER SERVICES TEAM Paul Marshall Coaching Manager (Consultant) Gayle Penn Development Officer Rhys Green Development Officer Val Ephraim Administrative Officer Jen Rigby Membership and Communications Officer Ellen Roberts Finance Officer Phil Stone Places to Paddle Manager PERFORMANCE TEAM Dan Golder Performance Manager Jonathan Davies Talent Pathway Officer (North) Serena Williams Talent Pathway Officer (South) (maternity leave) Lydia Wilford Talent Pathway Officer (South) Gareth Bryant Talent Pathway Officer (West) Tom Power Head Coach (Slalom) Dan Goddard Performance Coach (Slalom) DIRECTORS Kerry Chown Chairperson Andy Booth Finance Director David Wakeling Elsa Davies Lowri Davies Ian Hughes Jet Moore Eryl Richards Mary Taylor Ieuan Watkins

CONTACT CANOE WALES www.canoewales.com admin@canoewales.com 01678 521 199 National White Water Centre, Frongoch, Bala, Gwynedd, LL23 7NU

#canoewales

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ALISTAIR DICKSON APPOINTED AS NEW PERFORMANCE MANAGER Canoe Wales is pleased to announce the appointment of Alistair Dickson to the role of Performance Manager.

Dickson will take up his new role in January 2021.

Dickson joins the organisation after 8 years at the RYA, where he was High Performance Manager & Interim CEO for RYA Cymru Wales for 4 years and Director of Sport Development at RYA HQ for 4 years. During his time as High Performance Manager RYA Cymru Wales, the Welsh sailing performance programme was credited as being the most successful in the UK and developed a number of athletes who have gone onto represent GB at World and Olympic level. More recently, as Director of Sport Development he has helped to develop the RYA’s support of clubs, volunteers and grass roots sailing and has led a re-development of the RYA’s OnBoard programme (youth development) to better promote the character development which takes place during participation in outdoor sports like sailing.

On his appointment, Dickson said: “I am really excited to be joining Canoe Wales and bringing my experience of sailing to other water sports like canoeing and kayaking.

Paddlesport will undoubtedly bring different challenges to sailing but it’s an area I’ve always been interested in and the need to focus on developing the right culture and environment remains the same. I look forward to working with a highly motivated team of coaches, clubs, volunteers and other Canoe Wales staff members to carry on and build on the successes the performance programme has experienced up until now.”

Jen Browning, CEO of Canoe Wales, said: “We’re incredibly excited to welcome Alistair to Canoe Wales to help us to build on our success to date in training Welsh, GB and World Champions and ensure our ‘athlete first’ approach develops not just phenomenal athletes, but role models and leaders.”

NEW CPD SYSTEM INTRODUCED UPLOAD YOUR CPD THROUGH YOUR MEMBERSHIP RECORD New for 2020, British Canoeing is introducing a new, supportive points-based CPD process. Aligned with their educational philosophy, CPD is individualised, allowing the Instructor, Coach and Leader to consider what areas they may need to develop.

The new process is simple, easy to upload and gives you the opportunity to recognise all of your learning and development, regardless of the source. During the recent period of restrictions, British Canoeing has recognised that paddlers have engaged in many different ways for their learning and development online and these can now be recognised.

For more info visit https://www.canoewales.com/new-cpd-system-introduced

COVID-19 GUIDANCE FOR MEMBERS, CLUBS AND COURSE PROVIDERS To make sure you’re up-to-date with the latest Covid-19 requirements visit the Canoe Wales website. With new information coming out every day CW are publishing the latest guidance and advice on-line. It’s important for members, clubs, centres and course providers to be prepared and to stay up-to-date with current government guidance and one of the easiest ways to do this is through www.canoewales.com

DEVELOPMENTS TO LISVANE AND LLANISHEN RESERVOIRS PLANS TO BRING BACK PADDLESPORT! Dŵr Cymru / Welsh Water has exciting plans to bring back paddlesport to the Lisvane and Llanishen reservoirs in North Cardiff. They took over the reservoirs in 2016 and became guardians of its amazing ecology and heritage. Since then they’ve undertaken restoration work and their vision is create a hub for recreation, health and wellbeing This includes plans to bring back watersports, including standup paddleboarding, canoeing and kayaking, and build a visitor centre with changing rooms, showers, cafe,and meeting and training rooms.

With the reservoir restoration work nearing completion, Dŵr Cymru held a 4 week public consultation in the summer and now hopes to submit their planning application for the site to Cardiff City Council later this year.

To find out more: English: https://corporate.dwrcymru.com/en/community/explore-our-sites/lisvane-and-llanishen Cymraeg: https://corporate.dwrcymru.com/cy-gb/community/explore-our-sites/lisvane-and-llanishen

CEUFAD: PRINT OR DIGITAL? CHOOSE WHICH VERSION YOU’D PREFER After trialling digital-only issues and listening to your feedback we’ve decided to return to four print issues a year. The magazine will still be available as an e-zine, and if you’d prefer that you can opt out of receiving print copies through the membership portal (you’ll then be emailed a link to the digital magazine).

To opt out of a postal copy: 1. Login to GoMembership.

2. Go to My Profile > Opt-ins.

Tick “I DO NOT wish to receive Ceufad magazine by post”

CANOE WALES SHOP PERFECT GIFTS FOR PADDLERS! If you’re looking for a pressie for the paddlers in your life check out the Canoe Wales shop. There are lots of great designs and products available to order online, including the new #ShePaddlesCymru and Clear Access Clear Waters designs, and kids products too.

From water bottles to hoodies there’s something for everyone; perfect for birthday gifts or a spot of early Christmas shopping …. https://canoe-wales.myshopify.com/

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Q&A

Clare Rutter

#ShePaddles Ambassador for Wales

Clare Rutter is the first British Canoeing #ShePaddles Ambassador for Wales. She was appointed in the spring and, despite the ‘challenge’ of Covid-19, has hit the ground running; helping to start #ShePaddlesCymru and promoting it online and On Tour (see page 26). Based in Cardigan she is a paddlesport and outdoor activities instructor for Cardigan Bay Active and Adventure Beyond, running taster sessions in canoe, kayak and paddleboarding, and Paddle Start and Paddle Discover Awards. She’s also working towards her coaching awards and has just gained her Canoe Award (Personal Performance Award). When she’s not volunteering or working you’ll probably see her on her favourite river, the Teifi … whether that’s in a canoe, kayak or on a SUP … Fortunately she found some time to catch up with Ceufad for a chat …

“I PUSH MYSELF HARD THOUGH, I FEEL LIKE I’VE BEEN GIVEN A SECOND CHANCE AT LIFE AND I’M DETERMINED TO USE IT, AS ON THE DAY OF MY ACCIDENT I COULD SO EASILY HAVE DIED.”

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How did you get into padding?

When I was about 6 years old my parents took me to an open day at Sealyham Activity Centre, I had a go there and loved it! Since then I’ve always paddled, as I’ve always been involved in youth organisations. In my early days in the Brownies and Guides, and later in the Scouts as both a youth participant and as a Scout Leader.

Have you always worked as an outdoor activities/ paddlesport instructor, and what steered you to this career?

No, in my adult working life I’ve been a Chef, a Security Officer, a Youth Worker and a Victim Liaison Officer and Restorative Justice Practitioner for the Youth Offending Service. It was actually my Occupational Therapist from my local Brain Injury Team who suggested I find another volunteering opportunity outside of my Scouting role, to push my boundaries and future opportunities a little more.

You mentioned your traumatic brain injury, which you suffered nearly 4 years ago – what impact has this had on you and your paddling?

So, the way I see it - I’m the same but different! I can’t always do all the things I want to do anymore.

I suffer greatly with neuro and physical fatigue so I have to very carefully plan my days and schedule, and how much I’m using my brain’s processing power as my working battery is far less than it was before. My ability to learn and retain information is greatly reduced, and my balance isn’t very good anymore, especially when fatigued. If I overdo things then I can be very ill for days. I can usually manage my schedule well and I’m pretty aware

of the symptoms that I start to display, and feel and know when I have to step back a bit, relax and allow time for my body and brain to recuperate.

A good day for me is like what I can only describe as having a permanent hangover. A bad day is like a combination of having a hangover, the flu and a bad night’s sleep all in one! I push myself hard though, I feel like I’ve been given a second chance at life and I’m determined to use it, as on the day of my accident I could so easily have died.

No one is harder on me than me. That motivation and determination is something that I never lost from pre-injury! Paddling helps me to forget for a while how poorly I can feel and seeing the joy that my work brings to clients is a real boost to my mental health. I find it so relaxing and enjoy all the benefits that it brings; being outside, appreciating nature and my surroundings, and reaping the health and fitness benefits.

What made you want to be a #ShePaddles Ambassador?

Growing up in the 80s and 90s I was very aware of the stereotypes; how women were viewed as the homemaker, the wife, the child raiser etc. and pursuing anything else beyond that for personal gain or interest was frowned upon. I disagreed with much of it and have always sought to try to change these stereotypes as I believed that women could be who they wanted to be and do what they wanted to do. In terms of paddlesport it was noticed how much passion and enthusiasm I had for it, and my apparent ability to enthuse others despite my disabilities, and I was encouraged to apply for it.

What does it involve?

Originally the only commitment was to do at least one social media post a month with the hashtags #ShePaddles and #ShePaddlesCymru. With my background in youth work, my current day-to-day work and my interest in social media, I knew that I could do so much more than that and use the role to normalise the idea and image of women in sports, especially paddlesports, and to pass on my enthusiasm and knowledge for the benefit of other women. Research shows that less than 3 in 10 paddlers are women and that women hold themselves back from presenting themselves for awards and qualifications, compared to men at the same levels. There are many known barriers to women participating including finance, childcare issues and feeling pushed out in a mainly male, testosterone-filled environment and so #ShePaddles aims to break down those barriers and provide for a caring, supportive and nurturing environment in which to develop confidence, skills and access to opportunities. The success of #ShePaddlesCymru is pretty much a full-time role now but I wouldn’t have it any other way! As they say, I’ve started so I’ll finish!

“ THE SUCCESS OF #SHEPADDLESCYMRU IS PRETTY MUCH A RHYS GREEN

You’ve been one of the driving forces behind the #ShePaddlesCymru Summer Tour – what’s your role been?

The idea came from me after an informal paddlemeet following the easing of coronavirus restrictions. Gayle Penn (CW Development Officer), together with a supportive team of volunteers, then made it all quickly become reality! I’ve had a number of roles working side-by-side with Gayle to make sure that everything was in place. This included how we would run each event, what we aimed to provide, and sourcing and providing equipment for ladies who didn’t own or have access to kit. My main role has mainly been instructing SUP on each tour date and doing the welcome, introductions, de-brief and evaluation, and awarding the ladies with their Paddle Start Awards!

FULL-TIME ROLE NOW BUT I WOULDN’T HAVE IT ANY OTHER WAY!”

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MARIE JONES & MARK EVANS

“THERE’S OBVIOUSLY BEEN A HUGE GAP IN THE MARKET FOR WOMEN’S SPECIFIC PROVISION, AND THE SUPPORTIVE AND DEVELOPMENTAL ENVIRONMENT, AND THE NATURE OF OUR PROVISION, HAS REALLY APPEALED.”

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The Summer Tour has been a huge success and, combined with the Facebook group, has shown that there’s a community of women and girls who are really keen to get into paddlesport. Why do you think these have been so popular and successful?

I think we’ve simply provided the opportunities and broken down some of the barriers which have enabled women to participate in what we’ve been doing. There’s obviously been a huge gap in the market for women’s specific provision, and the supportive and developmental environment, and nature of our provision, has really appealed, especially to those ladies who had previously never even considered getting into paddlesport. I think that the Facebook group together with the events has almost grown on its own by word of mouth.

Friends have told friends and encouraged them to also get involved. It’s just snowballed! We’re really proud of what we’ve achieved.

What do you hope #ShePaddlesCymru will achieve in the long-term?

I’m hoping that we can continue to normalise the image of women in sports and in paddlesports, and gain more of the same respect and opportunities that men currently have. By maintaining the momentum that we now have, I’m hoping that we can provide even more opportunities and events for women and help to break down barriers even more than we have done already. Long-term, I’m hoping for increased numbers of females joining Canoe Wales which will mean we can provide even more opportunities and further networking for both beginners and more experienced paddlers, and get women to where they want to be whether that’s being a weekend paddler, a volunteer at a local club, becoming an instructor/coach/leader/ guide or even aiming for the Olympics! We’re hoping that clubs and centres will also get on board and work with us and have as much enthusiasm for the initiative as we do and help build on the foundations that we have already created.

What advice would you give someone who is interested in trying paddlesport?

Simply to have a go! You don’t know until you try: push your comfort zones and you will reap the benefits. There are so many aspects and disciplines within paddlesport that there really is something for everyone! We’d encourage them to join our #ShePaddlesCymru Facebook group to see what we’re providing and see for themselves the supportive and encouraging environment we offer, and to make contact with their local club to see what they provide and how they can get involved.

You’re always out on the water – what’s your favourite trip?

As a Cardigan girl, my love will always be for the River Teifi! At 76 miles long there are locations for any ability. It’s so beautiful and full of wildlife in any season. My favourite is from Llechryd to Gwbert, a real full day adventure that’s different every time.

And you’re always out in/on something different.

So, which is your fave: SUP, kayak or canoe?

When I was younger, I was always into kayaking and thought that canoes were only for old people!

As I got older, I obviously understood the benefits of paddling canoe with its variety of available seating positions, its stability and the ability to carry lots of equipment. I only started paddleboarding last year and when I first tried it, I really didn’t understand what everyone was raving on

about, I just didn’t get it. The more I did though, the more it grew on me and now SUP is what I paddle and adore the most! I bought my own iSUP at the beginning of lockdown and there’s literally no stopping me now. If I’m not SUPing I’m either reading or thinking about SUPing!

“ AS A CARDIGAN

What are your paddlesport plans for the future?

Before lockdown, I was learning how to roll a kayak as I bought a playboat last year and really want to go out and have some fun with it. Obviously, lockdown put a stop to those sessions but I’m hoping to resume this again soon. I really want to do more courses so I’ll have more skills and knowledge and can go paddle some amazing water. One of my big bucket list items is to go on lots of expeditions with my SUP and to paddle all over the world! Apart from a global pandemic there’s no stopping me now!

FOR THE RIVER

FIND OUT MORE

You can follow Clare: Facebook.com/clarerutter.DBA Twitter.com/Clare_Rutter Instagram.com/clare_rutter.ba.hons Or contact her through: shepaddlesambassador@canoewales.com For more info on #ShePaddlesCymru check out the Faceook group #ShePaddles Cymru

GIRL, MY LOVE WILL ALWAYS BE TEIFI! AT 76 MILES LONG THERE ARE LOCATIONS FOR ANY ABILITY. IT’S SO BEAUTIFUL AND FULL OF WILDLIFE IN ANY SEASON.”

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The Canoe People of Patagonia Part 2 – The Kaweshkar The Kaweshkar are one of the original people of South America; sea nomads, travelling in skin-on-frame canoes along the coast of southern Chile. Kath McNulty shares her journey into their territory and continues her story about the remarkable canoe people of Patagonia.

A R T I C L E : K AT H M C N U LT Y

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Kath kayaking in Estero Las Montañas

sssssssssssss … “oh dear, is the dinghy deflating? did I hit a rock?” It was the sound of two geese running on water to take off. I had disturbed them in the pre-dawn half-light.

This is the land of the Kaweshkar native people, and like the Yagán (see previous issue of Ceufad), they were canoe nomads. The Yagán knew them as the ‘Alacaluf’, meaning ‘mussel eaters’ in the Yagán language. Several small communities still remain, in Puerto Natales, Punta Arenas and Puerto Edén (Jetarktétqal in Kaweshkar). A few dozen people still speak their language and follow some of their customs but they no longer travel or fish by canoe.

It is unclear where the Patagonian canoe nomads originally came from; the main theory is that Homo sapiens crossed the Bering Strait land bridge from Siberia 20,000 years ago and gradually colonised the Americas. An alternative theory is that they arrived in South America by boat, this idea is based on the archeological remains at Monte Verde, a settlement in northern Patagonia, which predates many of the more northern archeological finds.

Until contact with Europeans, their technology was Stone Age, and they lived a tough life in harmony with their environment. They made skin on frame canoes, usually seal or otter rather than the stitched bark used by the Yagán, that were eight metres long by one metre wide, large enough for a family and its dog.

Their land extended from north of the Brecknock Peninsula to the Golfo de Penas (Gulf of Sorrows), the large bight two thirds of the way up the coast of Chilean Patagonia.

It is estimated that the Kaweshkar never numbered more than 5,000 individuals, however by 1936 the population had crashed to 250, a quarter of the number recorded in 1900. Today, although the population remains small, it is growing, with around 3,500 people who selfidentify as Kaweshkar.

From the late 17th century Europeans were passing through these relatively sheltered waters fairly regularly, most were whalers and sealers and often stole from the Kaweshkar, even enslaving women. In 1833 Darwin came through on the Beagle and Captain Fitzroy took two Kaweshkar hostages in revenge for one of the ship’s boats having been stolen by Yagán. History has not documented how the Kaweshkar felt about being punished for a deed they had not committed. York Minster ‘married’ the much younger Fuegia Basket during their enforced journey to England and the officers reported that he didn’t treat her particularly well. They were eventually repatriated and returned to living the traditional way.

By the 1880s Europeans were clearing large swathes of land to establish ranches. They brought with them common endemic infectious diseases which decimated the native population.

To make a bad situation worse, the new European settlers regularly blamed the indigenous people for the disappearance of cattle, possibly a pretext to persecute them. (I find it hard to imagine a nomad making off with several cows and a prime bull in a narrow open canoe, but I will keep an open mind.) The persecution was so bad that in the 1930s the Chilean Airforce came to their defence and set up a base (Puerto Edén) on Wellington Island. This was a traditional Kaweshkar meeting place, and gradually the surviving families sought refuge nearby. Unlike the Yagán, the Kaweshkar never took up farming, they carried on a subsistence lifestyle gathering shellfish and fishing.

Pouring over the map of the Chilean Channels I’d tried to make some sense of this labyrinth of water and islands. I’d traced a route between Canal Cockburn and the Strait of Magellan, visualising the way it would have looked from a skin canoe.

We chose Canal Acwalisnan which turns into Canal Pedro. Bang in the middle is Paso O’Ryan, a narrow and shallow gap between islands where the tide hurtles through. Slack low water would be around 12:15 and we arrived a little early as we were hoping to make use of the tide all the way up Canal Pedro. Our speed on the approach to Paso O’Ryan was a respectable 5.1 knots. As we got nearer we could see the standing waves of the tide race on otherwise flat water. Our speed picked up, and we shot through at 10.3 exhilarating knots! It only lasted a couple of minutes, then our yacht Caramor twirled gleefully in the boils.

Did young Kaweshkar play on the wave or was the race seen as a dangerous and frightening obstruction? Our anchorage that night was Caleta Murray, just short of the Strait of Magellan.

The Strait of Magellan used to conjure up in my mind a busy shipping lane. This couldn’t be further than the truth, the landscape is vast and magnificent, it’s one of those places where you simply have to be to take it all in. Although the Kaweshkar did navigate the strait, no doubt taking advantage of the strong tides and eddies to make progress, they mostly stayed one side or the other and the populations were distinct. We’d dreaded this vast open water channel where gale force westerlies can pin you in an anchorage for weeks on end but we were lucky and a light easterly helped us on our way. We soon realised the downside to the amazing settled weather - we awoke to find the boat surrounded by a thin layer of sea ice. Just before the Pacific, we turned sharp right up Canal Smyth.

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Indigenous people’s territories

Puerto Edén

Franco in Estero Las Montañas Kaweshkar canoe portage between Bahia Mallet and Canal Union

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A few days later we pulled into Mallet Bay, used by the canoe people as a shortcut between Canal Smyth and Canal Union. Here Zach Peninsula is joined to Peninsula Munoz Gamera by a low neck of land and the Kaweshkar portaged their canoes and possessions over the narrow strip, thus avoiding a hard 20 miles paddle. We walked the route and although relatively flat and devoid of vegetation, it would still have been a hard slog.

Once in Union, it was a relatively sheltered paddle to Puerto Natales, on the ‘other side’ of the Andes, where the Kaweshkar would have found different types of food and opportunities to trade with the Aonikenk, a land based indigenous group related to the Mapuche.

We diverted up Estero de Las Montañas to admire the glaciers tumbling into the sea. Exploration by yacht can be tricky in the Chilean channels because only the shipping routes have been surveyed extensively. There is no shortage of anchorages, however, with bombproof ones every 20 miles or so, which enabled us to park the boat safely and use the kayaks to explore. We set off in search of signs of human occupation in our kayaks and found a shell midden on a small sheltered beach, probably used by humans for thousand of years. The sea was like a mirror and soon ice blocked our way. Even out in the main channel, we had to break the ice with our paddles to make progress and where it hadn’t formed yet we paddled through slush. The air temperature in southern Chile isn’t much colder than winter in Wales but the water is only a couple of degrees above freezing.

Luckily it doesn’t take much for the ice to disappear, a brisk breeze or a slight air warming.

PUERTO NATALES A few days later we arrived in Puerto Natales in freezing fog. The landscape was completely different to the one we had become accustomed to, the dense forest and bare rocky mountains had given way to a vast dry plain. In the bay we observed black necked swans and James’ pink flamingos. We made the most of the nearby border with Argentina to renew our visas.

After Puerto Natales, the trees gradually became taller and the vegetation denser. One evening I was scrambling up what looked like a fairly steep bank to find a good anchor tree when, about three metres above the sea, I suddenly realised there was no solid ground, I had been climbing up tree branches, plastered together with moss, lichen, deadwood and other sundry vegetation.

To attach the second rope, I waded up a stream and found a sturdy fallen log. I looked up to find I was inside the trunk of a tree, its buttress roots coming down all around me. They didn’t even touch the ground, growing instead out of dead logs covered in springy moss.

Franco stopped by ice Practically all the trees and shrubs in northern Patagonia are evergreen, strong colour in the pale winter light. I have been searching for the words to describe this rainforest and each time I lose myself among the lichen. Photos aren’t much use either, it is as if the camera is overwhelmed by the sheer mass of vegetation.

In Britain our landscapes are managed and have been so for thousand of years, conservation organisations specify how much deadwood landowners should leave for wildlife. The Patagonian forest is primal, untouched, deadwood is everywhere, providing nutrients and rooting medium for the next tree generation. The indigenous canoe nomads occupied a very narrow coastal strip, today they have been replaced by fishermen who occasionally saw down a tree close to the shore for firewood, you don’t need to walk far into the undergrowth to confidently claim “no human has ever been here before me”.

As we sailed up the east coast of Wellington Island I read ‘Uttermost Part of the Earth’, a fantastic book written by Lucas Bridges, the son of the first missionary to settle in Tierra del Fuego.

This particular section described a curious meeting which took place in 1885 at the exact same place we were navigating.

“A canoe came alongside our steamer. The people in it did not wear even the scanty apron that was customary among the Fuegians (Yagán).

One man had instead a flat-topped, wall-sided

bowler hat as his only garment, and another a collar, once white, tied around his neck, for the lack of a stud, with a strip of hide. Neither Acualisnan nor Sailapaiyinij (both Yagáns) could understand their language, but one of the three young Alacaloof (Kaweshkar) was familiar with it, so we had the unusual experience of carrying out a conversation through two interpreters. We learnt that these were Chonos from further north.”

The Chonos Islands are on the other side of the Golfo de Penas, over three hundred nautical miles away. These people had travelled all that distance in their open canoe.

The sea was

PUERTO EDÉN The sun was shining when we arrived in Puerto Edén and the little town glistened like a jewel.

We were delighted to find a sign welcoming us bilingually when we stepped ashore.

Transport around the settlement is by boat or on foot along narrow boardwalks which join up all the houses. Some of the planks are new, others are so rotten that you wonder whether you might take a dive into the undergrowth. In places the ground is steep, everywhere it is covered with thick spongy moss, lichen, trees, deadwood and tree ferns.

The population is haemorrhaging because the worsening red tide means that shellfish gathering, the main economic activity, is no longer viable. From 176 (70 women, 106 men) in 2002, the population is now just over one hundred and

paddles to make

like a mirror and soon ice blocked our way.

Even out in the main channel, we had to break the ice with our progress and where it hadn’t formed yet we paddled through slush.

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I soon realised that Puerto Edén is not that dissimilar to a Welsh village, everyone knows everybody’s business and feuds date back generations.

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Otter with king crab

Cucho, Maria-José and their three daughters

Southern sealion colony

Kath’s deck on the way to the hot springs

the female proportion is even lower. The school had 27 pupils in 2002, it now has 7. The redroofed school is state of the art (with wifi) and the Kaweshkar language is on the syllabus but the teacher and her mother are the only two native speakers left, so unfortunately the language spoken on the street (boardwalk) is Spanish.

Franco had toothache so we went in search of the primary healthcare centre, unfortunately the dentist only calls once a month. A dentist was consulted by phone and recommended urgent treatment so Franco decided to return to Puerto Natales by ferry to get it seen to.

Even today the land of the Kaweshkar remains extremely remote. From Puerto Edén, it takes two days by fast ferry to the closest town and there is no air strip. Franco would be gone for a week and I would stay behind to look after the boat.

At the ‘ticket office’, a house with the ferry prices pinned up outside, we were made welcome. “Please come in, would you like some coffee?” Coffee came with buns and honey. Three little girls looked on timidly, suddenly Rosita, the youngest, dashed over to Franco and hugged him, much to his surprise. We had been accepted and all three did the rounds with hugs and kisses. Cucho and José-Maria invited us to stay for tea, we ate ‘ceviche’, the delicious Chilean raw fish dish, made with conger eel, lemon juice, red onion, tomato and garlic.

The ferry arrival was announced over the VHF. It docked and Franco was one of a handful of passengers, the freight, mostly shellfish gathered from the few remaining areas not affected by the red tide was loaded on in large sacks. By the time the ferry pulled away, Franco was on first name terms with the crew and I had a coffee invitation from Aliro, the dock master (Cucho’s dad).

While Franco was living the high life in the city (having his tooth extracted), Maria-José, Cucho and their daughters Camila, Amalia and Rosita welcomed me into their lives. Aliro, took me out in his boat ‘Jonathan’ to check his crab pots. He cooked me fabulous fish meals and patiently put up with my halting Chilean and constant questioning as we chatted about subjects as diverse as the cause of the red tide, and why (some) Chilean women prefer to be blond.

Red tides are caused by microalgae that bloom when they receive excess nutrients. Not all ‘red’ tides are coloured, Alexandrum cantenella, the main algal culprit is southern Chile is translucent.

They can have a widespread effect on marine life and on animals in the food chain. Shellfish are particularly affected and build up high levels of neurotoxins which, if ingested by humans, will cause severe illness and even death. The cause of red tides in Patagonia is controversial, many blame the thousands of salmon farms that have set up in the pristine waterways since the 1980s.

Searching for the southern most hot spring in Golfo de Penas

Caleta Moonlight Shadow

Replica of a traditional skin-on-frame canoe Puerto Edén

The year we were in Chile, the worst environmental crisis in Chilean history decimated the livelihoods of fishing communities along the Pacific coast. A prolonged drought and increased sea water temperatures during the summer caused an algal bloom which killed 40,000 tonnes of salmon (25 million fish – 12% of all living farmed fish at the time) from farms in the northern part of the Chiloé inland sea (northern Patagonia).

Disposal of the rotting fish became a problem and permission was sought to dump it 75 miles out at sea. Nobody had foreseen what happened next; week after week, millions of dead shellfish, fish, birds and macroalgae washed up on the beaches and neurotoxin levels in shellfish rocketed along 500 miles of coast making them unfit for consumption. The subsequent scientific investigation found that some of the salmon dumping had been much closer to shore than authorised and that an unfortunate pattern of weather, currents and tides combined to drift the toxic waste and accompanying algal bloom towards the coast.

Puerto Edén is in a national park and the closest salmon farm is 300 miles away yet most of the bays are now affected by the red tide.

I soon realised that Puerto Edén is not that dissimilar to a Welsh village, everyone knows everybody’s business and feuds date back generations. Maria-José is ethnically Kaweshkar and bringing up her daughters in her hometown has been important to her but for secondary school they will have to go to Puerto Natales and she is considering moving there too.

A few days’ very slow sail and we glimpsed open ocean between two islands, the infamous Golfo de Penas but there wasn’t enough wind to get across so we waited.

The gulf is a serious stretch of water; gusts, during northerly fronts, regularly reach one hundred knots, steep waves caused by the ocean swell hitting the relatively shallow coastal area build quickly and are made worse by cross currents. Despite this, the Kaweshkar were known to frequent the exposed coastal strip and we decided to spend some time exploring once we’d tucked Caramor into a deep sheltered bay.

We clipped our three piece kayaks together and went looking for the southernmost hot spring in America. We only had a vague idea where it was and hoped that our noses would lead us to it. As I paddled my nostrils quivered, sulphur? No, it was ammonia, from the sea lion colony on a rocky island. A few miles further on we caught a definite whiff of sulphur and sure enough steam was rising from the muddy shore. We staggered around in the undergrowth for a while until we found what we were looking for; a perfectly formed, very exclusive rocky basin filled with hot water and black slime, the ultimate Kaweshkar bathing pool!

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The World’s Most Beautiful Sea Kayak Festival WO R D S : DAV I D BA I N P H OTO S : N R S

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have to admit, when I first read the self-proclaiming statement describing the Arctic Sea Kayaking Race as “one of the world’s most beautiful and fun kayak festivals, “ we started thinking of all the other kayaking festivals around the globe that we had attended over the years. The most beautiful in the world?

That’s a big claim.

After spending a significant amount of time paddling rivers in the Arctic, a sea kayaking festival seemed like the obvious progression in our quest to explore amazing places

(and sea kayak more). Situated in Vesterålen, a region north of Lofoten in Northern Norway, the backdrop for the Arctic Sea Kayaking Race is pretty spectacular.

A tight-knit community of friends first started the festival in 1991 and for the last 29 years have gotten together during the summer to run a festival that welcomes ocean paddlers from all over Europe, and indeed the world, regardless of skill level. For one week, beginners who may be taking their first strokes can mingle with and learn from the top marathon racers and sea kayakers in Norway.

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ON OUR FIRST NIGHT, WE LANDED ON A BEACH WITH A GRASSY PLATEAU FOR CAMPING. IT WOULD BE SAFE TO SAY THAT AS CAMPSITES GO, THIS ONE WAS PERFECT. OUR GUIDES ALL GREW UP PADDLING THESE WATERS — THEY KNOW THEM LIKE THE BACK OF THEIR HANDS.

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Based in Skipnes, a remote fishing village only accessible by boat, the festival week is split into three distinct parts: the rambles, which are a series of longer paddles teaching multiday and open-water skills; Skills Day, which offers technical development from experienced paddlers; and the Half-Marathon-Race Day, a social competition for everyone to get involved, at every level. In addition, kayak shops pop up tents on the pier, giving participants a sneak peek into the latest kayak equipment, as well as an opportunity to ask questions and buy gear.

THE RAMBLES One of the amazing things about this festival is that if you have not done much multi-day paddling before, you have a team of people eager to help you pack your boat and share their tips for prepping for overnight adventures. And the rambles let you put those new skills to the test.

The rambles are divided into two groups depending on skill level and each group sets off on their own overnight or multi-day paddles.

The short ramble is suitable for anyone with some paddling experience and enjoys a slower pace. The long ramble is suitable for those with more paddling experience and are able to keep a faster pace over a longer distance.

We set off on the long ramble. Coaches and rescue professionals made up our crew. Each day, our team was briefed on the paddling plan. On our first night, we landed on a beach with a grassy plateau for camping. It would be safe to say that as campsites go, this one was perfect. Our guides, Lars Oven, Eirik Bentzen and Marian Leonhardsen all grew up paddling these waters — they know them like the back of their hands.

The ramble continued past mountains towering out of the ocean and beaches stretching their white sands into its depths.

At one point, we busted out the fishing equipment, securing it behind our kayaks in case the opportunity arose to throw a line. To my surprise, we managed to catch enough fish for all to have a little portion with dinner.

The most challenging trip of the festival involved a day of headwinds and swell on the outside of the islands of Vesterålen. Paddling south, the world-famous Lofoten Islands stayed in our horizon line, and despite the conditions, we would remember the picturesque white sandy beaches over the swell.

Meanwhile, the kayakers on the short ramble mirrored our route with the exception that they stuck to the sheltered side of the islands.

Whilst the long ramble team worked on their

technique in small swell and winds, the short ramble team developed their forward paddling and got used to the feel of loaded sea kayaks.

Waking up on the final morning of the ramble was not the morning we had planned.

Strong onshore winds and sharp rain pierced through my base layers. I quickly donned some thicker outer layers to prepare for a splashier return trip to Skipnes.

Back at basecamp, we met with the short ramble team as well as the new paddler group being taught by Roger Tronstad. An evening of celebration ensued with paddlers from all over Europe enjoying time away from the hustle of daily life and sharing tales of paddling adventures.

S K I L L S D AY The ASKR has some of the most experienced paddlers and rescue personnel that Norway has to offer, so for me, the skills day was one of the highlights of the whole festival.

Eirik Bentzen, owner of Milslukern and a Norwegian Marathon Paddler, helped paddlers to perfect their forward stroke technique. Local coaches taught rolling and rescue clinics.

One group paddled out to improve their rough water techniques in the small swells and test rock-hopping skills. But it was the off-water presentation that stuck with me most.

Lars, a rescue helicopter winchman, gave an in-depth talk about ocean safety and protecting yourself in case of cold-water immersion.

He also discussed how to recover and increase your chances of rescue during an emergency.

Paddlers packed in to hear Lars’s insight. He answered questions and explained equipment.

I’m confident this single lecture could make the difference in life or death to at least one paddler in that room. I exited the talk with a giddy feeling having been a part of an event that betters the paddlesports community.

R A C E D AY Like all good festivals, they save the best for the last. Race Day is dedicated to a long race around the islands. Traditionally, it’s a marathon however; the 2019 route was only a half marathon. (Rumor has it, in celebration of the 30th Anniversary, next year will be a full marathon.) The race was again split into several groups, from the ultra-competitive paddlers to those who just wanted to go for another incredible paddle in Northern Norway.

The festival wrapped up with a huge feast of fresh fish and an after-party on the deck of the Skipnes village. We drank beers late into the night and toasted to the most beautiful kayaking festival in the world.

THE FESTIVAL This event,

like so many others, happens so seamlessly because of the dedicated local paddlers who tirelessly prepare a full schedule that inspires, educates and celebrates sea kayaking. Huge thanks need to go to Karl-Einar, Astrid Berthinussen and the rest of the ASKR crew who make this grassroots event happen. Learn more about The Arctic Sea Kayak Race and get involved at https://askr.no/

ABOUT NRS is a global paddlesports company that supplies all the equipment to facilitate on water adventures.

Catch up on more adventures on Duct Tape Diaries https://community.nrs.com/ducttape/ https://www.nrs.com/

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Canoe Wales Team There’s a pretty impressive team at Canoe Wales. These are the people who keep everything running, whether that’s sorting membership, coaching future Olympians or encouraging newcomers into the sport. It’s a hugely diverse and talented team who quite often work quietly behind the scenes, improving and developing paddlesport in Wales, and ensuring that Canoe Wales is there for its members, coaches, centres and clubs. So, here’s a chance to meet the people behind the scenes and find out a bit more about them …

JEN BROWNING CEO Hay-on-Wye jen.browning@canoewales.com

WHY I DO IT: I love working for CW because it gives me the chance to work with a group of lovely people who are passionate about paddling – and want to give back to a sport that has given them confidence, friendship and adventure. I’m especially excited about developing opportunities for people who might face extra obstacles to take part – including disabled people and women and girls. Seeing people find paddling and watching it completely change their lives for the better – that’s a great reason to come to work every day!

BACKGROUND: My background in sport is wheelchair basketball (I won Paralympic gold in 2004) – though lately I spend more time exploring the outdoors, seeking out wheelchair accessible walking paths around the Brecon Beacons and trying out different kinds of adaptive equipment designed to make the outdoors more accessible for disabled people. I just got a new off road wheelchair that I’ve used to climb a few hills and see the world from a new perspective – and with a 4 year old I’m really enjoying sharing the outdoors with her.

VALERIE EPHRAIM

ELLEN ROBERTS

Administration Officer NWWC Bala or working from home val.ephraim@canoewales.com ROLE: Dealing with various tasks relating to membership and award administration.

EDITOR’S NOTE: Val is definitely one of the ‘behind the scenes people’ who keeps CW running smoothly. She’s the one who answers all our queries and has a vast knowledge of the coaching and awards scheme.

Finance officer NWWC Bala or working from home ellen@ukrafting.co.uk ROLE: Dealing with a variety of tasks relating to finance.

EDITOR’S NOTE: Ellen is another ‘behind the scenes’ person who works quietly away managing the CW accounts. She ensures everyone and everything is paid on time.

JEN RIGBY Membership & Communications Officer Llanrwst, Conwy jen.rigby@canoewales.com

RHYS GREEN Development Officer Carmarthenshire, South Wales rhys.green@canoewales.com

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ROLE: As well as sending out membership cards and renewal reminders, I help answer email and phone enquiries from members and clubs. I look after CW’s social media, updating the website and events calendar. This year I’ve been helping with #ShePaddlesCymru and have been responsible for running the 2020 Canoe Wales Awards. As we’re a small team, you never know what may come your way - and that’s what I like about my role - it’s diverse and varied.

BACKGROUND: I don’t really think of myself as a

paddler as my first love is the mountains – but I have paddled lots over the years - kayaking on canals and lakes as a kid, rafting in Nepal, canoeing on the Norfolk Broads and sea kayaking off Anglesey. I did my first SUP session with #ShePaddlesCymru - it was awesome!

PADDLESPORTS / OTHER INTERESTS: I also work as a minibus driver at the NWWC, so I may have given you a kayak shuttle at some point! I love cappuccinos and dog walks. There are beautiful places to walk near us - I feel so lucky to live in North Wales.

ROLE: Working with clubs to improve, grow and to be more sustainable.

BACKGROUND: I paddle, that’s my main thing.

I started with a canoe club and gained the benefits of a well-run club. I have travelled globally and enjoy every means of paddling.

Without my introduction through club paddling things would be very different.

PADDLESPORTS / OTHER INTERESTS: I’m at home on rivers in a canoe, kayak or on my SUP; lakes are a winner and sea journeys are always welcome. The majority of my paddling

involves journeying in nature, from a couple of hours through to multi-day expeditions.

I’m all about the correct craft for the day and making life easier depending on what I’m after achieving.

Canoe Wales Team

JONATHAN DAVIES Paddlesport Development Officer Llanberis, North Wales jonathan.davies@canoewales.com

GAYLE PENN Development Officer Burry Port, Carmarthenshire gayle.penn@canoewales.com

PAUL MARSHALL Coaching and Workforce Manager Monmouth coaching@canoewales.com

PHIL STONE Places to Paddle manager (part-time) Home-based, near Aberystwyth phil.stone@canoewales.com

ROLE: I’m responsible for slalom development in North Wales, giving young paddlers the opportunity to try slalom then supporting them along a structured pathway into the Welsh development group. I enjoy seeing how young paddlers gain so much from taking up our sport; developing personal confidence, discipline, focus and determination.

BACKGROUND: I was one of the first paddlers in the Welsh team back in 1979 when St David’s School in Llandudno ran a selection event at Beaver pool on the River Conwy. This was a

Div 2 event run by Bangor Uni. I’ve also represented Wales at the Commonwealth Champs in Australia in 1982 and was on team GB in the Masters games in Ivrea Italy in 2019. I’ve also paddled the Dora Baltea in Italy.

PADDLESPORTS / OTHER INTERESTS: Another sport that I enjoy is running. I have run 10 marathons; London four times, Windermere once and Snowdonia five times, with a PB of 3.5 hours in the London Marathon. I also enjoy being out in the mountains and paddling some of the local rivers around North Wales.

ROLE: My job is simply to get more people involved in paddling and loving it!

BACKGROUND: My sporting background is in a multitude of activities and my favourite is netball. I had only paddled once before at a very young age. Since joining CW, I have now sampled a couple of crafts and I’m still pondering which one is for me. I’m developing my own skills along the way and I’m gaining confidence each time I’m out on the water, thanks to #ShePaddlesCymru programme.

PADDLESPORTS / OTHER INTERESTS: My passion is to grow and sustain equality in sport and I love my job at CW because it’s providing me with the opportunity to do just that. The Welsh outdoors and waters are some of the most beautiful in the world and I want to be a part of helping increase access for people to get out and onto the Welsh waters.

ROLE: Managing the delivery of BC awards and qualifications, supporting providers and overseeing safety for CW. BACKGROUND: I work part-time for CW on a consultancy basis. I also run my own Outdoor activity business called Inspire2adventure based in Monmouth delivering a range of adventure activities to a mix of clients in the real outdoors. Part of this business is also supplying technical advice to the school travel industry for international trips and completing adventuremark/Lotc inspections.

PADDLESPORTS / OTHER INTERESTS: Actively involved in a range of adventure sports both participation and instructing. Also paddle canoe, kayak, SUP and raft mainly rivers and lakes.

ROLE: I give advice on access to waterways and environmental protection issues. I liaise closely with WG, NRW, Dŵr Cymru and other organisations to seek opportunities for better access to waters in Wales.

BACKGROUND: I had worked for 20 years carrying out various access and conservation/environmental projects with the Countryside Council for Wales and NRW. I strongly believe that access and recreation managed correctly will lead to positive conservation and environmental protection. I want to play a part in creating

more opportunity to be on the water, this will lead to us all having a better understanding and greater appreciation of our environment.

PADDLESPORTS / OTHER INTERESTS: I’m happy going out on whitewater in my kayak but don’t have the urge to throw myself down anything silly these days, playing on a grade 3 suits me fine. I also paddle a canoe but prefer that to be flat or slow-moving water and particularly enjoy touring or multi-day trips. In general, I just enjoy the chance to be outside and get into the hills for a walk as often as I can.

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Canoe Wales Team THOMAS POWER Head Slalom Coach Llantwit Major, South Wales thomas.power@canoewales.com

DANIEL GODDARD Canoe Slalom Performance Coach Nottingham / Wales dan.goddard@canoewales.com

GARETH BRYANT Talent Pathway Officer Llandysul Paddlers Canoe Centre Bpaddlers@aol.com

LYDIA WILFORD Talent Pathway Officer Cardiff/ Vale of Glamorgan Lydia.wilford@canoewales.com

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ROLE: I am responsible for leading the slalom program, representing CW on both the national and international circuit. Working towards delivering the best programme possible, helping to support all our athletes to produce their best performances and achieve their goals.

BACKGROUND: I’ve been paddling for over 25 yrs and involved with CW for almost 20 yrs.

When I was 10 I tried slalom and that was me hooked. I worked my way through the divisions, becoming Welsh Senior Champion in K1M, which was one of my career highlights.

I thoroughly enjoyed the experiences that slalom gave me growing up. Being able to give athletes these same opportunities and watching the athletes I work with going to achieve success is the best part of my job.

PADDLESPORTS / OTHER INTERESTS: Slalom took a lot of my focus and time for a few years.

However, since the age of 20 my paddling has been a lot more varied; canoe polo at Uni and getting into river running. I now love nothing more than getting on the Afon Tawe in high water. I still do paddle slalom on occasion but just for enjoyment these days.

ROLE: Coaching a group of very talented canoe slalom paddlers and helping them achieve their goals.

WHY I DO IT: I love watching and coaching canoe slalom. I think it’s being able to help someone achieve their goals, and become better at something they enjoy too, that really gives me a buzz.

MY TOP 3 PADDLING MOMENTS: »» Senior Canoe Slalom World Championships Bourg St Maurice 2002 »» Designing the course for the 2017 World

Championships in canoe slalom »» Everytime I see someone pull off a move they couldn’t do before PADDLESPORTS / OTHER INTERESTS: As well as canoe slalom I often paddle recreational whitewater and surf on local weirs around Nottingham. I enjoy watching motorsport, especially Formula 1 and Moto GP.

ROLE: I am responsible for leading CW talent program in West Wales, which provides coached opportunities to identified talent athletes in West Wales at the site in Llandysul, and offers coaching support throughout the year at slalom competitions in the UK. I am also responsible for the management and delivery of watersports for Carmarthenshire Council as a job share position. And I’m manager of Llandysul Paddlers Canoe Centre.

BACKGROUND: I’ve been a member of Llandysul Paddlers Canoe Club since it started in 1984

and the manager of the Canoe Centre since it opened in 1998. I’ve also been on the Welsh slalom team when I used to race both K1 and C2 with my brother. The best part of the job is being able to work with paddlers over a number of years and help them move from club paddlers to Welsh and British teams.

PADDLESPORTS / OTHER INTERESTS: As well as slalom I enjoy canoeing, river running and sea kayaking. If I’m not on the water myself I love watching my two kids paddling, who are both on the Welsh canoe slalom team.

ROLE: I introduce children to our wonderful sport and work with them to get some on the performance program.

BACKGROUND: I love getting new people into our sport, to experience the freedom of the outdoors it gives you. I also love the fact people can take it in so many different ways; river touring, sprint racing, slalom racing, polo, surfing and that’s just a few options. I have competed in sprint, marathon, slalom, whitewater racing and polo. Highlights have been racing for the Great Britain development team and the amazing people I’ve met along the way.

PADDLESPORTS / OTHER INTERESTS: Paddling grade 4 rivers in Austria. This was very empowering for me and I loved every moment of it. Sea kayaking around Able Tamsin in New Zealand on a multi-day trip, taking everything we needed with us (the possums stealing food in the night was not a highlight though).

I now love my paddleboard, wild swimming, cycling and running. Basically anything outdoors. I am also a keen artist, selling my work and teaching classes.

Three days on the Si Nakharin Lake WORDS: JOHN CONLIN-JONES P H O TO S : A M Y S A R I N YA , M A R T K H E AW R AT , P E A C E K C H AV I T, AAUIRIT MAMECHAI, S O M AT

S

i Nakharin is the largest man-made lake in Thailand, situated near the border with Myanmar. It runs several hydroelectric dams on its journey back to the River Kwai and the Gulf of Thailand, some 200 kilometres away. Its smaller brother, the Wachiralongkon reservoir, sits nearby, which I kayaked with the same group a few years ago. This time we were returning for a 3-day trip on the waters of its big brother.

The drive to Si Nakharin was through steep valleys heavily forested with jungle trees and shrubs. Only the occasional limestone escarpment broke through the dense canopy, pitted with caves that have probably never been visited by humans, protected by the steep, forested mountainside.

The journey got progressively slower; the last 60km was overgrown, with bamboo hanging over the road and fallen trees blocking parts of the carriageway. Occasionally there was a break in the jungle, which the domestic cows took full advantage of. In other parts of Thailand these would be tied up but the

road was so quiet there was no need. Another highway hazard were large piles of wild elephant dung, but no sign of the elephants ‌ As we neared our destination the landscape changed; much of the jungle had been cleared for sweet corn and other crops. In places the road was thick in mud, where heavy rain had washed the soil from the cleared land.

Finally we reach our meeting point and headed down to Lam Khao Ngu, a small floating village at the edge of lake. We spent the morning loading our kayaks and canoes, and by 2pm we were ready. We set off for the first part of our trip, an 8km paddle to an island where we would camp for the night. This was an eerie journey, as we were paddling through forests of dead trees that were growing when the area was flooded. The stripped trunks were even more exposed, as the water level was 15m lower than normal, as Thailand was suffering its worse drought for 50 years.

There were really bad water shortages in lots of areas, including Isaan where I live.

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THERE ARE MANY ‘ISLANDS’ ON THIS LAKE, LARGE AND SMALL, THAT WERE ONCE THE TOPS OF MOUNTAINS BEFORE THE AREA WAS FLOODED. MOST ARE STILL FORESTED AND PROVIDE GREAT SPOTS FOR CAMPING.

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At about 4pm we arrived at the first island and set up our tents and hammocks for the night.

There are many ‘islands’ on this lake, large and small, that were once the tops of mountains before the area was flooded. Most are still forested and provide great spots for camping. We prepared our dinner and, after much talking and laughter, turned in at around midnight.

We awoke at about 6am and, after the Thai paddlers had cooked breakfast, we re-packed our kayaks and set off at 9.30am. Our group had grown a little; three more paddlers had arrived that morning to join us for the rest of the trip.

After a morning in hazy sunshine on beautiful waters, we reached the next island and were greeted by a group of six paddlers who were already camped there. They had arrived the day before to do some fishing on the lake. They welcomed us with an unusual request – if we were going to hang our clothes to dry could we do it outside the camping area. We agreed but had to ask why. Apparently there was a resident bee colony which had a salt addiction; so made a beeline (excuse the pun) for any salty clothes … or people! They were the same colour as our wasps only smaller and not so nasty, although I got stung

three times when they got into my tent. Some of the group had camped here many times but never seen swarms of bees like this before.

After preparing lunch and erecting tents and hammocks most of the group decided to paddle up a nearby river to two waterfalls. It was an 8km paddle and, if the river was low, a 4km walk. I was tired and decided not to go. So a small group of us stayed back and spent a few hours in the lake, mainly to get away from the bees which were driving us crazy! The rest of a group enjoyed their paddle but unfortunately could only get to the first waterfall as river was too low.

The evening was bee-free so we relaxed over a good meal with more laughter and chat. I turned in slightly earlier as I had a cunning plan. If I got up before the bees I could take down the tents and pack sting-free …

6am: no bees. My plan had worked. Tent down, bags packed, kayak ready to be loaded and not a bee in sight. By 10.30am we were ready to set off and turn back towards our start point. Another beautiful day on the water.

As lunch approached we spotted the first island we had camped on and decided that this would be a good (bee-free) lunch spot. Then it was

back on the water for the final leg of the journey.

This was the first trip for a few kayakers and some were starting to feel a little tired. However, help was at hand. One of the group had a double sit-ontop with a small outboard motor, and he towed the kayakers so they could have a rest! Maybe when I get too old to paddle this could be an option …

By now our group had grown even more, with over twenty paddlers on the water. There were three Canadian canoes, three sit-on-top doubles and eleven sea kayaks, plus the double with the outboard – quite a collection!

By 4pm we were back at Lam Khao Ngu and journey’s end. Time to unpack our boats, load up our vehicles and head home. But not before saying our goodbyes. It was a great group of people; kind and helpful in everyway. I waved them off and then set off to Kanchanaburi were I had booked a resort for the night, and could think about my next trip…

If you ever visit the Kwai Bridge by hire car or motorbike follow the 3199 road to the far end of the lake and the Si Sawat District. You will follow the Kwai River and the huge lake and see lots of amazing views. This is wild Thailand away from all the big cities and resorts, and well worth the visit.

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#ShePaddlesCymru

One of the good news stories from this year has been the increased interest and participation in paddlesport. One example of this has been the jaw-dropping success of #ShePaddlesCymru, which launched in spring this year (other sports take note …).

It was created to address the gender imbalance in paddlesport in Wales; the figures show that less than 30% of paddlers are female. CW wanted to even the balance, and increase female participation and membership. And so #ShePaddlesCymru was born, with the aim of increasing female participation through female-specific paddling opportunities. Funding was secured, a plan was hatched and the campaign was launched in spring this year … to the fanfare of the Covid-19 restrictions. Lockdown, social distancing, travel restrictions … it wasn’t the best start to a ‘get people out and involved’ campaign … Some plans had to be postponed but the team pushed on with their social media campaign and On Tour events. The #ShePaddlesCymru Facebook group was launched in March and now has over 800 members, sharing tips and trips and generally supporting everyone in the group.

The follow-up to this was the On Tour events. Six women-specific paddling events, suitable for complete beginners and paddling novices, run at venues across Wales. They were all fully booked, with some being sold out in a matter of hours. Despite having to limit numbers to be ‘Covid-19 safe’ the 6 events saw over 200 participants. This included many newcomers to paddlesport, who have gone on to paddle regularly and introduce family and friends to their newfound sport.

It is obvious that the campaign has really struck a cord, and there is a genuine need for women-specific paddling events.

Ceufad wanted to find out who was behind #ShePaddlesCymru and how they’d managed to have such a successful summer. So we caught up with Clare Rutter, #ShePaddles Ambassador for Wales, and the rest of the team to find out more……

Barry

Llandysul

#ShePaddles has been running for a while in the UK. What prompted you to develop #ShePaddlesCymru?

This is the third year that British Canoeing has operated #ShePaddles and the first year for Canoe Wales and the Scottish Canoe Association. Canoe Wales identified that there was a major gender imbalance within Wales and we decided that this was something that we wanted to tackle, to even out the numbers (the figures showed that less than three in ten paddlers were female). Establishing and developing a strong working relationship with British Canoeing with their #ShePaddles campaign we have been able to bring to life our very own women and girls movement #ShePaddlesCymru. The plan is to increase female membership and participation which, in turn, will enable us to create more femalespecific paddling opportunities including skills development, training, awards and qualifications. And hopefully put on even bigger and better events such as the ‘On Tour’!

Bala

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There seem to be a few people involved in #ShePaddlesCymru; who are they and what are their roles?

Me, through my Ambassador role, Gayle Penn (CW Development Officer), who has been the main driving force in acquiring funding and getting #ShePaddlesCymru off the ground over the past year. When we had our first video meeting with Gayle and Jen Rigby, (CW Membership & Communications Officer), when I’d been selected and appointed in my role, I asked how they wanted me to be perceived and how to operate in my role.

The response was: ‘Clare you can mould the role as you wish! If you have the ideas, we’ll make them happen!’ Having that freedom and encouragement right from the start has played a huge role in my generation of ideas and what we’ve been able to successfully achieve in a very short space of time. I had (and continue to have) so many big ideas and Canoe Wales have been behind them every single step of the way. The potential is limitless! From the start, with the three of us at the helm, #ShePaddlesCymru has quite simply EXPLODED. I’m really proud of what we’ve managed to achieve together, not bad considering the minimum commitment to my role was to do one social media post a month with the #ShePaddles and #ShePaddlesCymru hashtags!

For the ‘On Tour’ events, we’ve had some amazing support from female instructors from all over Wales who have helped deliver

Llanberis real quality coaching to new and beginner women and girls. These ladies, who we could not have operated without, have included Mer Taylor, Lydia Wilford, Fran Bateman, Carys Owen, Lisa Boore, Lina Patel and Cat James plus some fantastic Canoe Wales Young Volunteers; Hannah Stephens, Cerys Davies, Cerus Huxford, Arwen Skinner and Anya Wharton. We’ve also been very lucky to have volunteer Michelle Lee throughout the tour who has provided fantastic assistance to us and huge amounts of motivation and encouragement to our ladies. One extraordinary lady, Marie Jones, has also been with us throughout; she began her paddling pathway with us and has shown great strength, commitment and dedication to really progressing her paddling. Her partner Mark, also a paddler, has been our photographer at each event with Marie doing the editing. A real dream team aspect for #ShePaddlesCymru!

You launched #ShePaddlesCymru in the spring, what impact did lockdown have?

It was really difficult in the beginning as we couldn’t meet or get on with making many of our ideas happen and we couldn’t plan anything. All of which was really frustrating!

It did, however, offer the unique opportunity for people to start appreciating outdoor activities more, with paddle boards, kayaks, buoyancy aids and wetsuits all going out

of stock online. We initially focused on the social media element and created a base platform from which we could start bringing ladies together. Networking and motivating and encouraging them to strive for and achieve their goals and dreams once lockdown started lifting.

The social media aspect has been a huge success; the Facebook group has gained over 800 members in 5 months. What did you want to achieve from this group, and has it developed as you were expecting it to?

The idea was to create a central location online where women could form networks, make friends, learn from each other, share tips, ideas and knowledge, arrange paddle meets and ultimately feel supported by us and Canoe Wales on their paddling journeys.

Once I’d proposed the Facebook group idea it was created very quickly and within the first couple of weeks, we only had around 25 members and most of those were people that we knew! We were a little worried that it wasn’t going to work but then BOOM it took off. We’re frequently gaining 20-30 new members per day and managing the group between the three of us has quickly become a full-time job on its own! We’ve recently recruited volunteer Michelle Lee to become part of the group admin team as it’s become really big, really quickly.

One aspect of the FB group that’s been really successful has been my #ShePaddlesSaturday posts. Each week, I choose a paddling related topic and use it to raise awareness, share stories and experiences, provide learning opportunities and to promote discussion. These have been so successful that some canoe clubs have used my posts and given me a guest spot on their websites, and I have even been invited to share all my posts on Facebook group SUP Manchester!

You’re really quick to welcome new members and reply to posts; how do you manage this and do you think you’ll be able to continue with this as the group grows?

Quite simply, we’re all really passionate about paddling, totally support the idea behind #ShePaddles and are naturally positive and enthusiastic women so for us, welcoming new members is as normal for us as breathing! We’ve obviously each got our own busy lifestyles but we’re really quick to act when we receive a new member request or when a post is submitted. We want to create that supportive environment and start breaking down barriers right from the start. We’re very much aware though of managing our workloads for a healthy work-life balance so we’ll probably have to recruit more for the admin team as time goes on!

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Another project that you launched this year was the Summer Tour. What persuaded you to go ahead with this, given the challenge of the pandemic, and what were your expectations?

Ha ha, ok, so the ‘On Tour’ actually started quite accidentally! The story goes that as soon as the 5-mile restriction was due to be lifted by the Welsh Government that I posted on the Facebook group that I was going for a paddle in New Quay, West Wales and asked if anyone wanted to join. A few jumped at the chance and said yes, they’d be there.

Shortly after that Gayle was on the phone to me saying that some other ladies wanted to join in but they didn’t have their own kit and would I be able to help out? Luckily, I work for Cardigan Bay Active and Adventure Beyond for Jet Moore (who is really supportive of the #ShePaddles idea) and so I went with a van loaded with sit-on-top kayaks, paddleboards, wetsuits and buoyancy aids. We had a fantastic paddle with lots of smiles and laughs and guided by local resident and now one of our key volunteers, Michelle Lee. At the end,

when we discussed how it went, I said to Gayle ‘We should go on tour with this!’ and so, #ShePaddlesCymru On Tour was born! The first tour date for Llanelli Dock was planned, organised, risk assessed, kit acquired and the release of tickets issued within 3 days flat and a week to the day we were there providing equipment and full instruction to around 25 new women and girls. It’s simply all grown from there!

How did you choose the locations?

Part of our ethos is to provide options as much as possible and place decisions in the hands of our ladies. So I put a poll on Facebook to say that we were planning on doing a tour around Wales and where the ladies would most like us to go. With the results that came in I queried with Canoe Wales where the most approriate sheltered water venues were within those areas, suitable for beginners along with nearby available kit hire. Pretty quickly we had a 6-date tour schedule complete with roadies!

Llanelli

Barry

Bala Llanberis

Llandysul

Llanelli

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The Tour has been exceptionally popular, with every event sold out. Were you expecting this and why do think they’ve been so successful?

We hoped for it but never expected it! The idea of a fully sold-out tour was almost unimaginable and surprised us each and every time. There have been waiting lists for every event and we could have sold out several times over. However, we’ve had the Welsh Government’s group size numbers to abide by, been limited by the number of available instructors and the limited availability of equipment. Hopefully in the future, as #ShePaddlesCymru progresses, we can go huge!

Personally, I think this has been so successful because there’s obviously been a huge gap in the market for female-only sports provision, especially in paddlesports, and one that has become so evident that it’s been seriously long overdue! There are many barriers to women taking up sport such as access to childcare, finance and

Llandysul

Swansea feeling overwhelmed and pushed aside by a mainly male dominant environment. What we were providing was suddenly a huge opportunity for them; a low cost event in an all-female, female-led, supportive environment. We even had childcare available at one of the venues!

Given the restrictions and social distancing measures, were these events hard to organise and manage?

They were a little trickier as we had to maintain social distance throughout and disinfect all the kit between uses. However, after the first one, it was fine! Team #ShePaddlesCymru is amazingly organised and efficient, I don’t think there’s anything we can’t do!

Now that the Summer Tour is over, are there plans for a Winter Tour and an Expedition?

The four-day expedition was another of my random and crazy ideas that Canoe Wales were fully in support of! I proposed it as a grand finale to the Summer Tour and work immediately began on arranging it. With only a few tasks remaining, Wales once again started local lockdowns, which then cast doubt on it. A decision was made that we’d postpone the 4-day event until April (when hopefully the Covid situation will be more managed) and limit this year’s event to a

single day’s paddle. This is scheduled for the 10th October, from Brecon to Talybont - the same location as the original expedition. #ShePaddleCymru On Tour 2020: Winter Edition has already begun! Basically, my proposal for the winter months is to ensure that all the great work we’ve been doing over the summer is maintained and that the momentum and access to provision continues locally at clubs. I’ve already visited the Canoe Wales children’s beginner sprint sessions to see their amazing work in action and aim to be ‘On Tour’ myself, visiting clubs that currently have a gender imbalance and support them to implement and develop the #ShePaddles idea and breakdown femalespecific barriers at their locations.

We’re also going to use the quieter winter months to take time to review the summer, listen to the female participants future desires and start planning for bigger and better opportunities come spring 2021.

Do you see the Tours becoming regular events and/or evolving into something else?

Yes, definitely regular, we’ve said that we could have sold out many times over so there is evidently need and demand all over Wales for what we’re providing. We’ve come so far already - we can’t let the ladies down now! Hopefully, we can get bigger and better. Watch this space …

After an amazingly successful summer, what’s next for #ShePaddlesCymru?

We have so many ideas we’re working on, I just don’t know how we’re going to fit it all in!

So, currently in progress and upcoming is the #ShePaddlesCymru On Tour: Winter Edition that will run throughout the winter and spring during the colder and darker months but still encouraging the ladies to arrange paddle meets and push their paddling boundaries.

For the future, we’re aiming for more events, and continuous and normalised #ShePaddles provision throughout Wales. We also want to identify key females to further promote and enable the programme and, for those who want to progress towards their qualifications and careers, to support them throughout their journey. And to provide more volunteering opportunities and even some international opportunities! Again, watch this space as at the moment, our lips are sealed. My ethos from the start was ‘Go big or go home!’

I promised Canoe Wales that I would set the bar high and increase quality opportunities and experiences and female participation, and that’s exactly what I aim to keep doing!

MORE INFO join the Facebook

group ShePaddles Cymru or contact: Clare Rutter: Facebook: ClareRutzRutter shepaddlesambassador@canoewales.com Gayle Penn: gaylepenn@canoewales.com

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DESTINATION WALES

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Brecon nestles at the foot of the mountain range that takes its name, with the summits of Pen y Fan, Corn Du and Cribyn standing proudly a few kilometres to the south.

The town was built at the confluence of the Usk and the Honddu (hence its Welsh name, Aberhonddu), where early settlers would have been able to ford the river at the site of the present stone bridge (a scheduled ancient monument dating from the 17th century), where the Norman castle had a commanding view (the remnants of which are now part of the Castle Hotel).

There is always somewhere to go paddling in Brecon: the Usk at The Promenade offers 1km of Sheltered Water, ideal for short trips and training sessions (except when the river is in spate!); the Monmouthshire & Brecon canal flows 35 miles from the centre of town to Pontypool; and in the winter the Usk, Honddu and Tarrell all offer Grade 2-3 white water through the town and its outskirts.

The Upper Usk (together with the Upper Wye, just a short drive away) offers some of the most popular and accessible Grade 2-3 white water in southern Britain; while the many rivers and tributaries of the Brecon Beacons National Park (including the Upper Tawe and Mellte) offer popular trips for adventurous white-water warriors.

Open water isn’t neglected, with public access (via a launch fee) on Llangors Lake (the second-largest natural lake in Wales, after Llyn Tegid at Bala) and access for groups (via the Brecon Beacons Reservoir Passport Scheme) to some beautiful and remote reservoirs. The only thing we don’t have is the sea!

I’ve described here a couple of my favourite trips centred on Brecon town. Only an hour’s drive from Cardiff, Newport and Swansea, these are both accessible day trips for visitors from South and Mid-Wales. However, there are many accommodation options in the area, including B&B, campsites, bunkhouses and holiday cottages – so why not come for a staycation to discover the delights of Brecon and the Beacons for yourselves?!

2 River Usk

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BRECON BECKONS!

Aberbran

© freevectormaps.com

In this new Ceufad series Canoe Wales’ coaches and guides give you the insider info on their local coastal and inland waters. They pick two trips; sheltered/flatwater and moderate/moving water, and give you the low-down on access, highlights and top tips. This is the guide to some of the best coastal and inland paddling spots that Wales has to offer, and may just introduce you to a new paddling destination.

In this article Brecon-based Steve Rayner shares his two favourite inland trips in the stunning Brecon Beacons.

If you’re a Canoe Wales’ coach or guide and would like to share your favourite coastal or inland trips drop us a line at ceufad@canoewales.com

Pencelli

Talybonton-Usk

GRADE The following suggested trips have been defined as follows: Flatwater water with no flow e.g. canals and lakes.

Moving water - grade 2; rivers that can have waves and small stoppers which should be easy to navigate.

STEVE RAYNER is a paddlesport coach and freelance

outdoor instructor and consultant based in the Brecon Beacons National Park. As an independent Performance White Water Kayak Coach and Level 3 Canoe Coach, he provides personal skills coaching, performance awards and coach education on sheltered and moderate white- and open-water. As a freelance instructor he leads trips on rivers, lakes, reservoirs and canals for outdoor centres, Scouting groups, army recruits and Brecon Canoe Club (of which he is the Chair and Coaching Officer). As a consultant he spent 3 years as Canoe Wales’ part-time Waterways & Environment Officer and is now the part-time Coordinator for the South Wales Outdoor Activity Providers Group. Steve is also in the middle of an ambitious long-term project to create guest accommodation and training facilities at his family farm near Brecon!

Visit Steve’s website at steverayner.me.uk or contact him by e-mail steve.rayner@brynbolgoed.co.uk

TOP TIPS TO HELP YOU STAY SAFE AND PADDLE RESPONSIBLY Be prepared and take the right kit: »» Wear a correctly sized buoyancy aid »» Mobile phone in a waterproof case »» Whistle – to attract attention in an emergency »» Map and/or route description »» Clothing for the weather conditions + spares in a dry bag »» Food, drink & suncream

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Respect the natural environment and other users: »» Respect other waterway users »» Be environmentally aware, minimise your impact »» Ensure you have the correct licence if required »» Observe navigational rules – keep right and give other users space »» Check, Clean, Dry after every trip

Brecon Canal Basin

FLATWATER 1

Monmouthshire & Brecon canal

Britain’s prettiest canal?

Start: Finish #1: Finish #2: Finish #3: Distance:

Brecon Basin (LD3 7EW / SO 046 282) Brynich Lock (SO 077 273) Pencelli Basin (SO 091 250) Talybont-on-Usk Drawbridge (SO 112 227) #1 – 3.5km #2 – 7.5km #3 – 11km

PARKING Brecon Basin – pay-and-display parking at Theatr Brycheiniog Brynich Lock – limited parking on the verge of the B4558 beneath the A40 underpass.

Pencelli Basin – please don’t leave vehicles in the slipway turning area, but park instead at the layby on the B4458, opposite the campsite entrance at SO094248.

Talybont-on-Usk Drawbridge – limited roadside parking in the village.

ACCESS Canoe Wales ‘on-the-water’ membership includes a licence to paddle on the canal, which is operated by the Canal & Rivers Trust (known as Glandŵr Cymru in Wales).

CANALSIDE AMENITIES Brecon – Theatr Brycheiniog café and publicly-accessible toilets (during opening hours); town centre amenities within walking distance; Morrison’s Service Station (and shop – no toilet) at bridge 165.

Pencelli – Royal Oak pub (on left between bridges 154 & 153), Pencelli Castle Caravan & Camping Park (accessible from paths on right near bridge 152).

Talybont-on-Usk – Canalside Café (in Talybont Stores / Post Office); Star pub; White Hart pub & bunkhouse (all on left after drawbridge, No 144).

DESCRIPTION Often voted “Britain’s prettiest canal”, the Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal was completed in 1812 and, linked to a network of tramroads and railways, became an important transport corridor for coal, iron and limestone. The trip from Brecon to Talybont-on-Usk is a great showcase for what the canal has to offer – with several opportunities to shorten the trip, turn around and return to the start, or extend it further towards Pontypool!

Launch in the canal basin in front of the theatre (built in the 1990s in the style of a wharf building). Going immediately under bridges 167 and 166 you’ll pass some of Brecon’s back gardens (complete with access ramps for ducks and geese!), followed by some industrial units and Morrison’s garage on the site of an old wharf on the left (beyond which is Brecon Barracks, home of 160 Wales Brigade and the Regimental Museum of The Royal Welsh). After bridge 165, beside the rugby club playing fields, is a rubberised ‘soft-edge’ which offers an alternative access point – and from where short diversions on foot will take you along the towpath and through a gate to visit a wooden sculpture depicting a horse-drawn tramroad cart and, in the lane behind, some recently restored limekilns. Interpretation panels explain some of the history of the canal, describing the Hay Tramroad (briefly “the longest railway in the world”, linking Brecon to Herefordshire!) and how limestone was processed in the coal-fired kilns to produce ‘quick lime’ for agriculture and building. Spare a thought here for our hard-working forebears who built and operated the canal and its associated industry!

Back on the canal the next kilometre takes you past the home of the Infantry Battle School at Dering Lines (barely visible across the road from the canal) then through a short, modern tunnel under the A40 / A470 dual carriageway as it bypasses Brecon town. Make sure there are no boats coming the other way before entering – and beware of getting caught underneath the overhanging pathway on the right!

After another kilometre of peaceful countryside, you will arrive at Brynich Lock. Portage around the lock using the ‘soft-edge’ landing and launch zones, lingering to watch any canal boats passing

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through – and crossing the road carefully on the way. If you are continuing, round the next corner you will pass over the River Usk on the canal’s largest aqueduct – an interpretation panel on the corner illustrates its construction in 1801. It’s well worth getting out to take a look over the parapet, or taking a path down through the woods to have a dip in the river – in winter you may even see paddlers upstream at the end of the whitewater trip described below!

The canal meanders on for 3km, following the route of the River Usk in its glacially-carved valley through beautiful countryside, passing several farm bridges and a marina before reaching the B4458 once again at bridge 158, where there is another ‘soft-edge’ access point opposite the old storehouse (which was also formerly a canal museum), with limited layby parking (SO 085 257). Continuing to Pencelli, you will probably have to portage a low drawbridge just before the basin, where there is another ‘soft-edge’ access point as well as a slipway. The basin does get quite busy, so you may need to wait your turn if you’re stopping here!

In the next 2.5km there are views to the left over the meandering Usk floodplain to the Black Mountains beyond. Passing numerous farm bridges – including drawbridges that you might have fun sneaking under (or portaging!) – you will arrive first at Almshouses Bridge (No 145, SO 112 229, with access to a small layby on the B4458) and, 200m further, the powered drawbridge (No 144) at the end of the trip, close to the village centre at Talybont-on-Usk – where you have option of finishing or continuing into the unknown!

MOVING WATER – GRADE 2 2

River Usk

Possibly the best beginners’ whitewater trip in Wales?!

Start: Aberbran Fach Farm (LD3 9NG / SN 986 292) Finish #1: Brecon Promenade (SO 036 289, nearest postcode LD3 9LL) Finish #2: Brynich Lock (SO 077 273) Distance: #1 – 6.5km #2 – 11.5km PARKING Aberbran Fach Farm - just off the A40 between Brecon and Sennybridge. Drop-off area with access across field to launch point on left bank, just above road bridge. Please don’t park in the drop-off area: the owners allow parking on caravan hard-standings through the farmyard – drop a few £ into the farmhouse! Alternatively, park in the nearby A40 layby (SN 990 289).

Brecon Promenade – pay-and-display car park beside the ‘boathouse’.

Brynich Lock – limited parking on the verge of the B4558 beneath the A40 underpass.

ACCESS Paddlers are welcome on the Usk during the closed fishing season from 18 October to 2 March; and during the rest of the year when the level exceeds a ‘red line’ on the webcam gauge (see https://www. wyeuskfoundation.org/upper-usk-access-arrangements). At other times you are likely to encounter conflict from landowners or anglers! This stretch is interesting enough to paddle even at 1ft depth on the webcam; by the time it reaches the red line it will be quite exciting for beginners!

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Coaching on the canal

Portage around drawbridge at Pencelli

RIVERSIDE AMENITIES Brecon – toilet block near Promenade car park (through children’s playground and up the slope across the park); town centre within a short drive.

DESCRIPTION Known to many club paddlers as the second half of the trip from Sennybridge to Brecon (whose first half is mostly gentle water interrupted by three Grade 3 drops), this stretch of the Usk from Aberbran to Brecon makes a delightful journey. It offers near-continuous Grade 2 white water through beautiful scenery as the river carves its way over its bed of Devonian mudstone, laid down some 400 million years ago when South Wales was a tropical sea near the equator. It offers just the right amount of challenge and interest to make it perfect for club trips, coaching courses and army recruit training! Adding the extra 5km of Grade 1-2 to finish at Brynich Lock adds a little more interest, with the option of returning to Brecon along the canal.

From the drop-off area at the farm, go through a gate and across the field to the ‘official’ launch point (marked by a blue sign), above the road bridge on the left bank. For a good warm-up, paddle upstream to the foot of a small rapid, then head back downstream to drop through the river-wide wave immediately below the bridge.

Beware the current pushing into the bridge pillars; boulders beneath the right arch (hidden at higher levels by an enticing-looking surfwave!); and trees on the left below the bridge. Deal with any carnage and pick up pieces in the large eddy river-right below the bend and relax a little as you continue downstream. After about 800m, a short rapid to the right of a small island offers a nice surf-wave at certain levels, then 400m later a right-bend next to Aberyscir Court, a white Georgian house on the left, leads into a deep river-right channel with

The Usk at Brecon Promenade (with the weir in the distance)

The calm before the Llanspyddid Rapid

Submerged fishing platforms above Llanspyddid

The Usk in spate below Aberyscir

the best surf-wave on the Upper Usk, reached from a sweet eddy among the trees (or a large mid-river eddy at low levels).

Stop for a break on either bank at the Yscir confluence and cast your mind back to when Roman soldiers from the nearby Y Gaer hilltop fort or dwellers in the medieval castle (marked on the map as an ancient ditched mound or motte), may well have visited this very spot. Continue downstream through a small drop (easy shoot river-left) and small rapids for around 800m. After a long right bend there is another small drop, this time with a clear route close to the right bank (beware trees) and a more exciting tongue in the centre.

Catching an eddy immediately below the tongue will reveal a small (but grippy) diagonal stopper a few metres below – which frequently catches out the unwary as they attempt to shoot straight through!

For the next kilometre, the river flows over several small reefs, with the deepest channel on the left offering small diagonal surf waves at the right level. In the large eddies on the right, beware of fishing walkways (scaffold boards bolted to the riverbed!) which jut out into the river and pose significant entrapment hazards for swimmers, especially at higher levels when they are fully submerged.

The next left bend – heralded by a house high on the right bank – is the start of Llanspyddid rapid. 100m before the bend, head right towards the house; avoiding a stopper on a small drop; and breakout to inspect the river as it disappears downhill. The best route down is central, skirting close to a small island on the left, although this ‘graveyard’ rapid offers plenty of pinning hazards for the unwary!

A flat stretch followed by another, gentler ‘graveyard’ (right of an island) leads in 300m to a rocky constriction, with boily eddies, followed by an S-bend as the river drops first to the left over a small ledge then to the right over a larger shoot (the boulder hidden in its tail usually catches someone out!). Another 500m of small rapids

follows, deepest on the right – but look out for the webcam on a wall above a gauge among trees on river left – can you get yourself in the picture it takes every 4 hours?! Soon you will find yourself in Newton Pool – the 1km stretch of flat water formed by Brecon weir, which was built to provide the water to supply the canal on the other side of town. About 50m before the weir, a wooden landing platform on the left bank marks the access point at Brecon Promenade.

For the extended trip, cross to the right bank to portage the weir (although the weir can be paddled in the centre or using the fish-pass on the right, this is prohibited by a byelaw; and paddlers have been prosecuted in the past!). Get out on the concrete at the top-right corner of the weir and carry through the gate, across the corner of the golf course and descend the steep bank to re-launch at the mouth of the Afon Tarrell.

Back on the Usk, you will reach Brecon bridge after 400m (best through left or middle arch), followed by a small drop after a left bend.

A kilometre of slow water then leads to a gentle rapid (with small surf waves on the left) before passing under the A40 / A470 dual carriageway. After this ‘tunnel’, follow the river left then right (taking care through trees) – or straight ahead over shingle banks in high water – to reach a series of small rock ledge rapids some 400m later: the best route here starts central then works right. Shortly after this you’ll pass under a stone bridge and will see a second one ahead of you (which is actually the aqueduct carrying the canal). Egress between the two bridges on the left bank, at a small ‘beach’ where steps lead up the bank to the canal towpath, then turn left to reach the nearby road at Brynich Lock, where you have option of finishing or paddling back into Brecon on the canal (or continuing downriver for 8km of flat water before the exciting Grade 3 Mill Falls stretch from Buckland Old Mill to Llangynidr – but that’s a tale for another day!).

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A Tale of Two Coasts A R T I C L E : P E T E C AT T E R A L L

S

ince the pandemic and lockdown the desire to travel to new places has never been stronger but never seemed so far away. Given the circumstances it was a dilemma as to whether travelling overseas was a good idea or not. However, as the summer progressed, the restrictions began to ease and travel corridors opened up.

It seemed like a trip to mainland Europe could be an option.

Plan A was the French Alps, for a mix of whitewater and mountain biking, however, France was then removed from the ‘quarantine exempt’ list. Croatia was the next option for sea kayaking but, like France, was removed from the list. Plan C was to head to Scotland and the western isles.

Destinations were researched and local info came in from friends. That was it, we would be going north this year for our summer trip: decision made! Or so we thought …

The week before our trip Portugal was added to the list of exempt countries and Plan D suddenly swung into action.

A quick search on Google ... the Algarve coastline looked amazing. It had always seemed more of a beach holiday destination, busy with golfers and sunseekers. However, with a bit more research I started to see a very different side to the Algarve, miles and miles of craggy coastline with hundreds of hidden beaches, spectacular caves and sea arches. Plan D was starting to take shape. Next on the list; sea kayak hire. Initially there seemed to be lots of kayak hire companies, however, these turned out to be sit-on-tops, not sea kayaks. Surprisingly, despite having some stunning coastline, I could only find one company that hired sea kayaks in the Algarve: Sea Kayaking Sagres. A small family run business that rented out high-end sea kayaks from P&H, Valley and Wilderness Systems. Owners Amandia and Anke were committed sea kayakers and soon gave us all the info on the best trips in the area. Plan D was a go!

Secluded bay on the south coast

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One of hundreds of amazing caves Crystal clear water ... but cold!

Looking along the west coast on a calm day

AS WE APPROACHED THE CAPE THE SWELL INCREASED AND BOOMED UP AGAINST THE CLIFFS, MAKING US FEEL PRETTY SMALL AND INSIGNIFICANT

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Flying into Faro we caught a glimpse of the coastline and the variety of paddling we would be enjoying. The south coast was sheltered and tranquil; a maze of sandy bays. The west coast was towering, scarred cliffs, that bore the full force of the Atlantic swells.

On our first day we met Anke and collected the boats and maps, and got the local beta. She recommended a trip from Sagres to Salema; 20km of rocky coastline studded with hidden sandy coves that were only accessible by boat, along with incredible caves to explore. In the first 30 minutes we were treated to a small pod of dolphins and bumped in to the co-owner, Amandia, who was guiding one of the trips they offer. He knows every inch of this coast and gave us good info on some caves to explore and great places to stop for a break. The trip was simply stunning. It was away from the bigger tourist resorts which made it feel far more remote than it actually was. The day was spent exploring every cove, cave and beach with the occasional fight up against the force 5 headwind that we were hiding from on this coast.

A break in the wind allowed our second trip to be along a more committing section of coast; around the Cape of St Vincent, the most southwestern tip of Europe. When we arrived and saw the beach full of surfers we knew that this

would be a good day. With a big swell coming off the Atlantic we would have a few hours of fullconcentration paddling to start with. This coast is really different from the south coast as it gets a regular battering from the big winter swells. Huge cliffs and rocky outcrops gave this place a special feeling. As we approached the headland, and the most south-western tip of Europe, the swell increased and boomed up against the cliffs, making us feel pretty small and insignificant.

Once round the cape we are treated to flat calm waters and got back to exploring the caves and coves, with a few huge sea arches to paddle through. The region is famous for its migratory bird life, and for whales, sharks and dolphins.

Unfortunately we were there in August, well after the migratory season, so the wildlife was pretty lacking apart from pigeons, cormorants and gulls.

However, what it lacked in wildlife it more than made up for in geology. The mix of limestone, mud and sandstone cliffs gave the area a unique coastline; every few hundred metres there were caves to explore. Some with entrances so low that they were only accessible to sea kayaks, but which then opened up into vast caverns. Some with pristine beaches at the back, others with high chimneys that illuminated the caves with great shafts of sunlight.

This day gave us 27km of incredible paddling; crashing waves and swell on the west coast, round the cape to the south coast, along cliffs and through caves, finishing with the fort at Sagres. It was here that Henry the Navigator planned his 15th century expeditions to the uncharted seas around the western side of Africa, which was the beginning of the golden era of Portuguese exploration.

Our third trip was to explore more of the south coast and its renowned caves. The most famous by far was Benagil cave; hundreds of tour operators were selling boat trips and sit-on-top tours to this vast cave. This didn’t sound particularly appealing; we were warned of a crowded area full of boats scrapping over the route into the cave. However, Anke and Amandia said it was worth it and advised a great section from Portimao to Armação de Pêra.

25km of more Algarve magic. As we left the harbour we were followed by a flotilla of tourist boats all heading to Benagil. Not a great start. However, these soon passed and then it was just the two of us with the coastline to explore. Once again we were treated to caves, arches and sandy coves. It seemed like the tourist boats were only interested in Benagil cave. With each corner we would discover more huge caves guarded by small entrances that only we could explore. As we approached Benagil things began to get busier. In fact we pretty much had to join a queue of boats waiting to get into the cave. And once we were in there, it was crammed with boats, sit-on-tops, SUPs and a beach full of people all trying to take the perfect selfie. We had a quick look and then carried on, away from the crowds to discover more beautiful caves with hidden beaches and nobody in them!

If you want sea kayaking destination where you can surf huge swell, discover incredible geology and, at the right time, interact with the migrating wildlife then this should be high on your destination wish list. There is very little tidal movement in this area so planning is pretty easy, however, due to its exposure to huge swell your judgement needs to be on top form. The good news is that Sea Kayaking Sagres not only offers gear rental, but guided trips too. They recommended routes, helped us with our planning and arranged our shuttles. In short they are a great company who make it all very easy.

Heading round the cape

Queue for Benagil cave

Stunning geology Calm waters after the cape

THE ALGARVE is easy to fly to,

with lots of cheaps flights to Faro. There’s stacks of accommodation along the coast too; we found ours through AirBNB. Sea Kayaking Sagres sorted our boats and shuttles. They have great kit and know the coast like the back of their hands. www.seakayakingsagres.com

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PADDLER PROFILE

William Coney WELSH SL ALOM WILL IS 23, LIVES IN NOTTINGHAM, HAS BEEN PADDLING SINCE HE WAS 12 AND IS CURRENTLY RANKED 1ST IN PREMIER C1 Hometown: Narberth

Number hours training per week: Normally

Nationality: Welsh

around 12 sessions of approx. 75 min. I’d

School: Ysgol Dyffryn Taf, Whitland

love to be doing that much at the moment

Club: Llandysul Paddlers / Seren Dwr

but a back injury is slowing me down!

Favourite food: Home grown lamb roasted on the BBQ Favourite music: Fisherman’s Friends, Madness, Queen Where did you start? Llandysul Why canoeing? Good question, I fell into it and haven’t looked back. I enjoy the challenge of finding new goals and setting a plan to get there.

Standout moment: Missing the U23 team last year but then being selected for 3 Senior World Cups a few weeks later.

What do you miss about home? Family time and working on the farm.

Favourite pastime other than kayaking: Adventuring Most influenced by: The 3 people I spend most time with, choose your friends

First slalom: Llandysul River Festival

wisely :). But on a more serious note, my

Why slalom? The feeling on the water when

parents’ work ethic. The paddler I most

it’s all going your way.

Favourite UK site: Lee Valley Favourite European site: Bratislava

38 |

CEUFAD

look up to is Alexander Slafkovsky

“THE HARDER YOU TRAIN THE LUCKIER YOU GET” FAVOURITE SPORTING QUOTE

KIM JONES

PADDLER PROFILE

Gabi Ridge WELSH SL ALOM GABI IS 23, LIVES IN NOTTINGHAM, STARTED KAYAKING IN 2009 AND IS CURRENTLY RANKED 7TH IN PREMIER K1 Hometown: Narberth

Why slalom: Quite simple really, I love it! No two

Nationality: Welsh

parts of water are the same, and no race run

School: Ysgol Dyffryn Taf, Whitland

is the same, which makes it a fun and excit-

Club: Llandysul Paddlers

ing challenge.

Favourite food: I love food. Don’t give me a pack

Favourite UK site: The Bitches tidal race is

of anything – you’ll just get the wrapper back.

incredible. For day-to-day paddling HPP.

Favourite music: Lewis Capaldi, Freya Ridings, Sigrid ... a good sing-along to some Disney!

Where did you start:Llandysul Paddlers Why canoeing: My sister took it up and per-

Favourite European site: Bourg-Saint-Maurice; an amazing course & beautiful location!

Standout moment: Becoming Vice-World during my British team debut at the U23

was diagnosed with a spinal condition called

World Championships in 2017.

active, so we started going more frequently.

I soon realised that I didn’t like falling in, but kept going as we enjoyed each other’s

What do you miss about home: Paddling with all the amazing youngsters coming through at Llandysul Paddlers.

Favourite pastime other than kayaking: I’m

company. Persevering was worthwhile as the

not a fan of the gym and so started climbing

more I learn and improve, the more I enjoy it!

instead; 1-2 times a week and I really enjoy it.

First slalom: Llandysul River Festival 2009

FAVOURITE SPORTING QUOTE

Champions in the kayak women’s teams

suaded me to start too. Not long after she Spondylolisthesis. The paddling kept her

“A RIVER CUTS THROUGH ROCK, NOT BECAUSE OF ITS POWER, BUT BECAUSE OF ITS PERSISTENCE”

Most influenced by: Jess Fox; a phenomenal

PROFILES: JONATHAN DAVIES, TALENT PATHWAY OFFICER NEXT ISSUE: LILI BRYANT

CATRIN SCHRODER

paddler & an incredible role model.

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PARTING SHOT The world’s most beautiful sea kayak festival?

Full article on page 16.

Photo: David Bain