Passages Magazine | Spring 2023

Passages Volume 29, Spring 2023

Continental Divide Trail Coalition

SEEING THE WORLD BETWEEN TWO EARS Exploring Trails on Horseback in the Western U.S.

By Gillian Larson

FULL OF LIFE Honoring a lasting legacy of true friendship

FROM WINTER TO SPRING Photos from the Heart of Yellowstone

By Samsara Chapman Duffey

NEW MEDIA ROUNDUP AND MUSIC PLAYLIST

Cover photo by Gillian “Thrurider” Larson

Zack Bumgarner (he/him) GIS Specialist Dan Carter (he/him) Trail and Lands Conservation Manager L. Fisher (they/them) Trail Policy Program Manager Haley Gamertsfelder (she/her) Field Coordinator Danny Knoll (he/him) Administrative Assistant Audra Labert (she/her) Communications Manager Teresa Martinez (she/her/ella) Executive Director

Michael McDaniel (he/him) Field Coordinator Lauren Murray (she/her) Director of Development Shandiin Nez (she/they) Southern New Mexico Policy Fellow Liz Schmit (she/they) Community and Outreach Program Manager Steven Shattuck (he/him) Director of Operations Cornell “Corey” Torivio (he/him) New Mexico Regional Representative Jordan Williams (he/him) Colorado Conservation Fellow

Allie McCurry (she/her) Development Coordinator

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Michaelunderwoodphotography.com

The Northern Lights over Yellowstone National Park, Gardiner, MT. Michael Underwood- Michaelunderwoodphotography.com

CDTC STAFF

IN THIS ISSUE 4 5 6 8 9 13 16 21 23 25 27 29 31 34 38 40 41 46

Editor’s Letter Welcome New Board Members Reflections, Barney Scout Mann Trail Tidbits Trail Stewardship Field Programs Feature Story Advocay Piece, Between Two Ears Full of Life Gateway Communities Trail Town NM Update, Youth Hiking Program Beat in the Bootheel Photo Spread, Winter in Yellowstone Goodbye Nita, When Trail Angels Get Their Wings Media Roundup Back to Book Lists The Terminus BACK COVER PHOTO BY JACK “QUADZILLA” JONES.

CONNECTING THE COMMUNITY THAT SUPPORTS THE CONTINENTAL DIVIDE NATIONAL SCENIC TRAIL The Continental Divide Trail Coalition’s mission is to complete, promote, and protect the Continental Divide National Scenic Trail. CDTC is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization and donations to CDTC are tax-deductible to the fullest extent allowed by law. To donate, visit our website at www.continentaldividetrail.org.

Continental Divide Trail Passages is published three times a year for the members of the Continental Divide Trail Coalition. Membership begins at $5 per year. Members are encouraged to submit story ideas and photographs for inclusion in Passages to the editor at communications@continentaldividetrail.org.

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EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S LETTER SPRING FORWARD Dear CDTC friends, It’s almost impossible to believe that spring is upon us.

It seems like just yesterday we were wrapping up 2022 and looking forward to 2023. Now all of a sudden, the first thru-hikers are already heading north, field staff is on board, and CDTC is getting ready for the first volunteer projects.

Planning is in full swing for events across the CDT during the next six months. Although it may not be much different than years past, this year seems like it’s rockin’ and rollin’ like never before. We are beginning to experience the benefits and success of the foundation, and the pace of progress is rapidly increasing. It’s hard to believe that by the time May comes around, we will be one year past our tenth anniversary and five months into one of the CDTC’s busiest years ever!

Fifteen volunteer projects are planned along the Trail this field season, including local community daylong stewardship efforts, Adopt a Trail Trainings, and some exciting work with Latino Outdoors and Denver Environmental Learning for Kids. Exciting work has begun on a documentary project with the UNM-Taos Film Center focused on Indigenous voices. The New Mexicobased CDT Youth Hiking Program enters its second year providing support to local Native and Indigenous youth from the Acoma Pueblo, and now the Zuni Pueblo, to connect to the CDT and their homelands. In Colorado, we will be working with a larger coalition of folks to look at strengthening partnerships and connections to the Colorado 14’rs accessed from the CDT. We are always looking forward, and this year we are embarking on our next strategic visioning effort, which you will hear more about in the coming months!

CDTC welcomed new faces to the team this year: Shandiin Nez, Southern NM Policy Fellow; Audra Labert, Communications Manager; Zack Bumgarner, GIS Specialist; Field Coordinators Michael McDaniel and Haley Gammertsfelder, and Danny Knoll, Administrative Assistant. They add a lot of new energy and excitement to the CDTC Team, and that energy helps us look forward. We are also grateful for all the contributions of our previous team members, including Lauren Hendricks, Allie Ghaman, Morgan Anderson, Kylie Yang, and Jackie Horne.

We said goodbye to CDTC Board Member Barney “Scout” Mann, who completed his service on CDTC’s Board on December 31, 2022. Barney and his wife Sandy “Frodo” Mann are going back to hosting hikers in their home in San Diego along the PCT, amongst the many other endeavors and adventures they have planned. We also said “farewell for now” to Board Member Tom Phillips, who is very involved in his local community of Las Cruces, NM. Tom accepted a position as Board Chair of the

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Dona Ana County Water Commission in Southern NM, but he is staying on the Trail Lands and Conservation Committee. In their places, we welcomed Sharon Buccino of Wyoming and Kevin Webber of Colorado as CDTC Board Members in March.

We offered a bittersweet farewell to one of the most influential people along the entire CDT, if not National Trails System, Nita Larronde. Nita, or MamaLoha as she was affectionately known, was the proprietor of the Toaster House in Pie Town, NM. Thanks to people like Nita, the foundations of a supportive community for the CDT and CDT travelers are alive and well.

My realization when sitting down to write this letter: It is springtime along the Continental Divide and within the CDTC. Along with the farewells, we welcome new life into this community and these places that are like none other on the planet. We witness the return of the birds–old friends making their spring journeys north along the CDT–and the resident bears and creatures waking up from long winter naps. We delight in opportunities to see familiar faces, like Tom “Radar” Baker in Southern New Mexico, Jeffrey Sharp of the Hachita Bike Ranch, and CDTC Southern Terminus Shuttle Drivers Tim Sharp, Cal Ewing, Doug Spray.

Spring is the time to experience new growth and relationships. We are preparing to spring into a new decade with the enthusiasm and energy required to withstand the challenges, opportunities, and adventures ahead. I wish you all a beautiful spring and look forward to seeing you all on the Trail in the coming months.

Thank you for all you do on behalf of the Continental Divide National Scenic Trail!

Teresa Ana Martinez (she/hers/ella) Executive Director Continental Divide Trail Coalition

W E LC O M E NEW BOARD MEMBER INTRODUCTIONS

He is the CEO and co-founder of Colorado’s largest wine operation: Carboy Winery. Since 2016 Carboy Winery has slowly turned a state known for its beer into one that makes exciting wines, lifting the Colorado wine industry into prominence.

Kevin currently sits on both the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board as the marketing chair and the Colorado Association for Viticulture & Enology’s Board of Directors as the legislative chair. His passion is for building impactful brands that give back.

Kevin Webber is a dynamic & innovative entrepreneur with backgrounds in sales, marketing, business development, and manufacturing.

During his time at Fourpoints, Kevin was a steering committee member for the Colorado Outdoor Business Alliance (Conservation Colorado), and he worked with outdoor environmental partners including the CDTC to push conservation initiatives such as the CORE Act and more specifically protection of the Camp Hale Continental Divide Wilderness Area. In his free time, Kevin enjoys spending time with his wife and kids in the great outdoors.

At one point, while standing on top of Yosemite’s Half Dome, she was convinced to pursue environmental law. From California, Sharon went to Alaska, where the mountains were even bigger. She worked for the Alaska Supreme Court as it dealt with the aftermath of the Exxon Valdez oil spill.

Sharon serves as an attorney for the Natural Resources Defense Council. Her current work focuses on public land management, energy policy, and government transparency. She has helped citizen groups across the country use the law to shape government decisions affecting the future of their communities.

Sharon Buccino grew up in Central Florida and realized she needed more mountains in her life.

After 25 years in Washington, DC, Sharon now lives in Laramie, Wyoming. She values the chance to help make national policies work on the ground. In addition to her work as an NRDC attorney, Sharon teaches as an adjunct at the University of Wyoming’s College of Law and serves on the City of Laramie’s Planning Commission.

Sharon is always looking for ways to get outside, and every once in a while, she can convince her husband or two daughters to sleep on the ground with her.

Even when she can’t, you’ll find Sharon exploring the Medicine Bow National Forest, the Red Desert, and the CDT.

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REFLECTIONS BARNEY “SCOUT” MANN Q&A

Barney Scout Mann is an author, trail advocate, retired attorney, and avid long-distance hiker. In 2010, he retired from a 25-year career as a real estate and business lawyer in San Diego including four years as a managing partner.

Barney began backpacking in 1965 with the Boy Scouts. In 2007, he thru-hiked the Pacific Crest Trail with his wife. In 2015 he thru-hiked the CDT and in 2017 he thru-hiked the Appalachian Trail, making him a Triple Crowner.

What gave you hope when you joined CDTC’s Board for the future of CDTC?

What was something you saw that you wanted to help CDTC become better at accomplishing?

What gave me hope for CDTC in 2015 when I finished my CDT thru-hike? Why did I jump in right away to be part of CDTC’s volunteer leadership? I saw an organization with the potential for greatness, a non-profit with cornerstones in place, especially Teresa Martinez, an organization primed to take a great leap. I hoped to be a catalyst and help us grab the next rung. Indeed we did, a first strategic plan within a year, which led to doubling and tripling of staff, doubling and then quadrupling of CDTC’s resources.

Initially, everything. Sorry. CDTC had already come so far, but in 2015 CDTC was stretched razor-thin everywhere. Teresa even did the books because the part-time bookkeeper was sick.

“May the CDT always have long stretches where you still get lost, where you’re the only person on it for miles, a trail still raw where almost no one hikes the same path.”

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As you leave CDTC’s Board, now what gives you hope?

Everything. We have a strong board, broad-based across all spectrums, and a huge net asset.

And I know the word is overused, but Teresa and her staff are amazing. Since our first strategic plan in 2016—there have been two more since —CDTC has met or exceeded nearly every target set. So, I am far beyond hopeful, I am enthused and can’t wait to follow the future of the CDT and CDTC. What is your challenge to the CDTC Community?

Preserve the wildness of the trail and at the same time increase the breadth of use, accessibility, and the public’s knowledge and appreciation of the trail. The magic of the CDT is in its original charge to be a primitive trail. One of our great trails shouldn’t have hash marks every hundred yards, shouldn’t have a trail tread and grade as smooth as glass, and shouldn’t have shelters every eight miles. May the CDT always have long stretches where you still get lost, where you’re the only person on it for miles, a trail still raw where almost no one hikes the same path. I challenge you to protect the CDT, but please, please, never completely tame it.

What is one thing you are proud of accomplishing and seeing CDTC accomplish as a collective while you were on the Board?

Don’t make me pick one thing. If it’s that, then it’s making Don Owen eat his words that he’d never seen a fully-successful strategic plan before. (Don played a big part in making it that way.) Things I am personally proud of: The CDTC’s first Strategic plan, when I encouraged a few significant hires before CDTC was “ready” (because we might never have been “ready”), building strong board leadership, and working with my board partner Don Owen (yes, in the early years we did send secret messages to each other during board meetings).

One thing I will never forget is Teresa’s reaction when I told her I was stepping aside as Board President. I always felt close, but in that moment, I truly felt how close.

Barney served on the Board of Directors of the Continental Divide Trail Coalition for six years. He has participated in Hike the Hill, an annual week of advocacy for national trails in Washington, D.C., every year since 2008.

Barney’s contributions as a CDTC Board Member, fellow trail enthusiast, and generally terrific human being are deeply appreciated.

We’ll see you on the trail Barney!

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TRAIL TIDBITS It’s been a busy spring! In addition to infrastructure projects, The Gateway Community of Salida gathered on April 1 for a XC ski near the Continental Divide.

These events are a great way to connect with friends and new faces along the Divide!

CDTC Staff and volunteers show off a new walkthrough gate installation near Silver City, NM.

Although some nordic ski experience was recommended, the #1 goal: To have a great time! CDTC and Gila National Forest partners installing a rollover near Silver City, NM in January 2023.

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TRAIL STEWARDSHIP

By Dan Carter (he/him) CDTC Trail and Lands Conservation Program Manager

CDTC was pleased to begin working with the new Continental Divide National Scenic Trail Administrator, Ben Lara, in December 2022. The CDT Administrator is housed under the U.S. Forest Service Region 2 Office and oversees the Trail. Lara and other National Trails leadership from the USFS, National Park Service, and Bureau of Land Management manage the CDT: Carin Farley– BLM, Brenda Yankoviak– USFS, and John Cannella– NPS. CDTC works closely with these agency partners to continue to complete, promote, and protect the Continental Divide Trail and landscape.

BLACK RANGE POST-BLACK FIRE SURVEYS In 2022, the Black Fire burned over 325,000 acres, including much of the Aldo Leopold Wilderness and approximately 41 miles of the CDT through the Black Range of the Gila National Forest in New Mexico. The Black Fire was the second-largest wildfire in the state’s history. In partnership with the Gila National Forest, CDTC developed a rapid, post-wildfire trail assessment survey using ESRI’s Field Maps app. CDTC staff will begin surveying the CDT through the Black Fire area in the spring of 2023 to help land managers determine and prioritize where work is needed. USFS expects to begin clearing blown-down and standing dead trees during this timeframe.

Access to this section is challenging due to post-monsoon flooding and heavy winter snow, and precipitation has damaged many roads and trails. This section of the Trail is open, but users should approach it with extreme caution as the Trail may be difficult to follow due to erosion, blowdown, and unstable soils. Standing dead timber also poses a risk, especially during New Mexico’s windy spring.

TRAIL COMPLETION AND IMPROVEMENT Plans to complete major gap areas in New Mexico and Colorado continue to move forward, and conversations continue with stakeholders and completion of the Optimal Location Reviews.

DEUTER IS FOR THE LONG HAUL

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New Mexico State Land Office and Bureau of Land Management also finalized a rightof-way to provide access to the CDT where it passes through state lands. This action is a major step for Trail protection in New Mexico and protects approximately 57 miles of Trail and allows for trail improvements such as maintenance, construction, signage, and gate installation.

COLORADO UPDATE CDTC’s Colorado Fellow, Jordan Williams, has taken the lead as the Colorado CDTC representative and continues to move efforts along in the state across all of CDTC’s programs. Working closely with the Colorado Dept. of Transportation and USFS, Jordan is clarifying the process for signage improvements across the state to make the CDT safer and more accessible.

In Colorado, two new bills have brought the subject of public access across private lands to the forefront: Senate Bill 23-103 Recreation Liability Statute, and House Bill 1066 regarding Corner Crossing. SB23-103 did not move forward this year despite support from recreation groups, though HB1066 continues to move through committees. The latter would clarify the legality of passing diagonally from one corner of public land to another when the other two property corners are privately owned. This situation is common in the “checkerboarded” lands in the West because of the mosaic of public and private lands. OnX estimates approximately 8.3 million acres of public land in 11 western states in inaccessible due to the corner crossing issue.

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Take a stand.

Raise your voice with the REI Cooperative Action Network to join the movement for health, strength, and equity in the outdoors.

Take action at REI.com/act

Illustration by Christina Moreland

Let’s get things done. Together.

A previous bill that passed in Colorado, the Powerline Trails Bill, guides the use of existing utility corridors for recreation trails with the willingness of both the utility company and the landowner.

NEW MEXICO UPDATE This Spring, CDTC staff, local volunteers, and USFS partners installed six rollover gates in the Burro Mountains and Little Walnut sections of the CDT near Silver City, NM. These new structures address the most common concern we hear from our neighbors in the grazing community: Open gates and cut fences. The rollovers prevent livestock passage and provide access for trail users without the need to open or close a gate. This infrastructure is popular with bicyclists, but hikers enjoy their simplicity and ease.

Equestrian-accessible gates remain at these locations. More structures will be installed in high-use areas where recreationists and livestock share the Divide.

The New Mexico State Legislature passed SB9, the Land of Enchantment Legacy Fund, to fund conservation work in New Mexico. This creates a permanent, dedicated funding source for land and water stewardship, forest and watershed health, outdoor recreation and infrastructure, agriculture and working lands, historic preservation, and wildlife species protection.

The CDT received a generous boost with the installment of the Winchester Fund from a private donor.

This fund will continue to provide resources to sign and mark the CDT and install kiosks and interpretative information at trailheads.

GIS Specialist and State of the Trail Zack Bumgarner (he/him) Greetings! While I’m new to this role, I have years of experience in front-country GIS with local government and back-country GIS as the CDTC Field Technician and several seasons as a Wilderness Ranger in New Mexico.

Since returning to CDTC as GIS Specialist, I’ve been taking steps toward building a stronger GIS foundation for the organization. Work has initially involved updating the trail centerline and building a comprehensive in-house spatial database that can be updated from the field, providing more accurate and timely data.

This will be important as we develop the State of the Trail report, a comprehensive inventory of the trail, and the human and natural landscapes it connects.

I look forward to diving in and seeing what the data reveals.

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FROM THE FIELD CDTC Gears up for volunteer projects and the 2023 field season Waking up to early morning light and birdsong, the first great chore of the day is leaving your warm sleeping bag. But as you emerge from the tent, the muffled sound of other volunteers cooking breakfast and making morning conversation begins to wake up the senses. You circle up as a crew after eating and start the day with a safety talk, stretching, and goals, then head out with all your needs in your backpack and a tool in hand. You begin as a crew to tackle the work of the day: digging, clearing, cutting, then building, hauling, and shaping all types of natural materials.

When lunch rolls around, you feel so grateful for that sandwich and that piece of fruit you packed in the a.m. You laugh with your new friends as you rest under a tree and maybe share stories. It’s amazing what comes up on these projects and how easy it becomes to relate to one another.

The workday ends, and whether the project leaves your crew feeling victorious or defeated, you walk back to camp together with a sense of fulfillment, release, and good tiredness. Everyone gathers around the camp together as more stories come forth–sometimes silly and hilarious, sometimes tender and moving– and, no matter what, it is a safe space to be yourself. You eat dinner together, hang around, and, eventually, shuffle off to your tent as the moon and stars fill the sky, to do it all over again the next morning.

CDTC Field Coordinator Michael “Peacock” McDaniel shared about a typical day in the field. He is a TripleCrowner, having completed the CDT, PCT, and AT, with over 15,000 hiking miles logged and five years of working with and leading trail crews. Michael is no stranger to long days in the field. His goal this season is “To connect people to their legacy along the Continental Divide Trail and open the door for new folks to experience this spectacular resource.”

Alongside Michael, Haley “Natty G” Gamertsfelder joined the CDTC as Field Coordinator in 2023. A fellow Thru-Hiker, trail crew worker, and leader, Haley has a background in conservation and restoration and is especially looking forward to learning about the plants she encounters in the field.

Haley shares, “I’m delighted to take part in co-leading so many unique and exciting projects this season. From the retired forester to the weekend adventurer looking to make an impact in their area, this trail is truly a space for all of us. I look forward to meaningful conversations and connections formed in the outdoors. To spend time on the Divide is a gratifying experience that I cannot wait to share with our volunteers this year!”

Teresa Martinez, the Executive Director of the CDTC shares her excitement for upcoming projects: “I’m thrilled to have a dynamic duo of expert field coordinators leading the season.”

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2023 VOLUNTEER FIELD PROJECTS From May to September, join Michael, Haley, and our dozens of partners for projects that range from clearing the trail corridor to making tread and building bridges. From big to small, all of the projects help make a lasting impact up and down the Divide.

To join them on one of their many immersive projects, visit: continentaldividetrail.org/volunteer.

Questions? Email hgamertsfelder@continentaldividetrail.org

NM

• Middle Fork of the Gila with Groundwork Trails - FULL - May 16-21 • Ghost Lake 2 - pls - May 26-29

MT

• Butte Community Stewardship Pete Sorini Trail Days and Adopter Training - June 10-11 • Helena Trail Work with Wild Montana FULL - July 20-23

CO

• CO - Steamboat Springs Community Stewardship - June 24 • CO - People of Color Trail Work - TBD! • CO - High Lonesome I with HTA - July 7-9 • CO - High Lonesome II with HTAJuly 15-16 • CO - Georgetown Adopter Training July 28-29

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ID

• ID - Big Hole Pass Trail Work - August 5-9 • ID - Salmon Community Stewardship with Salmon Valley Stewardship - August 11 • ID - Big Hole Pass Adopter Training August 12-13

WY

• WY - Brooks Lake - August 18-22 • WY - Yellowstone - August 28-September 1

NM

• NM - Martinez Canyon, Carson NF September 7-10 • NM - Silver City Adopter Training September 17-18 • NM - Neglected Mine - September 21-24

NM

• WY - Pinedale Community Stewardship/ NPLD with Friends of the Bridger-Teton September 30-October 1

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SEEING THE WORLD BETWEEN TWO EARS: Exploring Trails on Horseback in the Western U.S.

By Gillian Larson

When I set off on my first long-distance horseback adventure in 2014, riding from Mexico to Canada on the Pacific Crest Trail, I thought it was a one-time fling before settling down to “real life” and a master’s degree program in biology. Little did I know that spending months at a time in the backcountry with my horses would become my life’s focus, as I viewed the world from a whole new perspective and later got to share what I had learned with others.

I didn’t have a clue what I was about to encounter on that first trip— the trail obstacles like downed trees or high-elevation snowpack, the difficulty of providing sufficient food and water for my horses, the importance of the right equipment for them as well as myself.

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I scoured hiker blogs for information about lightweight backpacking and tried several saddle pads before combining two of them to make my own custom version. I had a crash course (almost literally) in horse packing, which I had only read about in a manual called “When Mules Wear Diamonds” before beginning my first multi-overnight section of the PCT with two horses. It wasn’t until a thousand miles later that I met a forest service packer who showed me how to tie an Arizona box hitch for my panniers, which I have used ever since.

It was a steep learning curve, but one with rich rewards in terms of the natural beauty of the wilderness and the deep bond I nurtured with my equine teammates.

AZT Grand Canyon, May 2017

After a second successful completion of the PCT in 2016 where I was able to put all my newly honed knowledge to the test, I was ready to branch out into different territory.

My next challenge became a thru-ride of the Arizona Trail in 2017, which was complicated by the desert terrain, particularly in the south. I figured out how to cache water and weed-free hay at dirt road crossings to provide for my horses’ needs (and how to keep the caches safe from free-range cattle). Probably the highlight of that journey was riding through the Grand Canyon with its stunning-and challenging--geography. Also in 2017, I completed the Colorado Trail, which then sparked my desire to attempt to ride the Continental Divide Trail the next year.

PCT Southern Terminus, April 2014

Each state along the route of the CDT posed its own unique problems to overcome, but I drew on previous experiences to counter them. New Mexico presented the same issues as Arizona in terms of water and feed, as well as lots of fences without stock gates where the trail traversed cattle ranches and rangeland. Even the dirt roads were often blocked by cattle guards that are equally effective against horses, and I spent lots of time and extra miles finding detours.

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Leave No Trace and Stock Users: What to Expect Stock users utilize different techniques for maintaining a light-on-the-land approach to backcountry travel. Here are some things you may see when encountering a stock group camp: Electric fence. This is a great way to

allow the animals to be themselves and eat while out on the trail. An electric fence may be set up near the trail, so be careful.

Impact on camping areas.

I also waited for the snow to melt in the northern portion of the state where I would be crossing into Colorado.

The issue with snow continued throughout Colorado, although I benefited from 2018 being a relatively low-snow year. Using satellite imaging and some creative selection of trail sections based on snowmelt rates, I was able to finish the state without having to flip-flop to Wyoming first. My previous experience on the CT definitely came in handy, especially through the San Juans, which remains one of my favorite areas for its dramatic, sweeping vistas.

Wyoming has one of the most diverse topographies along the CDT, with the Great Basin in the south, the rugged Wind River Range in the middle, and Yellowstone National Park in the north. The rolling plains of the Basin made for easy riding, and it was exciting to encounter roaming bands of mustangs, although I had to fend them off from my horses at times.

Rising out of the Basin into the Winds, we exchanged the harsh desert environment for a beautiful alpine landscape of lush meadows and pristine lakes.

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Some campsites will wear the mark of stock impact through loss of vegetation near trees. Stock users are encouraged to repeatedly use these same areas to avoid impacting new areas. Some areas will even have permanent structures installed for stock users. Avoid using stock sites when traveling on foot to keep them open for those who need them.

Loose animals. It is common practice

for some stock users to allow a few ‘herdbound’ animals to range while the others are contained.

The key element is for users to approach each other with respect and consideration of the many ways to enjoy the outdoors.

There is a long tradition of stock use in wild places, and animals continue to be a critical management component of Wilderness and non-motorized lands.

Gillian Larson became the youngest person to solo thru-ride the Pacific Crest Trail, covering the 2650 miles from Mexico to Canada in 2014, then again in 2016.

She rode the Arizona Trail and the Colorado Trail in 2017, then completed another Mexicoto-Canada route on the Continental Divide Trail in 2018—the first person to thru-ride the PCT and the CDT with the same two horses.

Most recently, Gillian tackled a third thru-ride of the PCT in 2022, this time with a rotating team of 4 horses and a mule, for a total of more than 13,500 backcountry miles.

She focuses on educating others about the many challenges of wilderness equestrian travel while continuing to push the boundaries of long-distance riding and helping to modernize traditional packing techniques.

Find her at gillianlarson.net.

Camping with horses in Yellowstone presented some technical difficulties in terms of permitted equestrian sites, but it is one of the most accommodating national parks for horses, as there are separate reserved facilities for riders which prevented competing for space with hikers.

The threat of wildfires and the impact of smoke is becoming an increasingly common hazard throughout the west, and I ended up altering my route into Montana because of fires that created detours to the CDT through Idaho.

Thankfully I avoided the worst of the smoke, and soon the approach of winter put an end to concerns about wildfires.

Glacier National Park provided breathtaking mountain views, autumn colors, and even a light dusting of snow as I neared the Canadian border in mid-September. I was so proud of my horses when we reached the end of our ride and grateful for our partnership.

During those first four years, I covered over 10,000 miles with the same two horses, a mother-and-son pair of Quarter horses. Since then, I have expanded my herd to include a mule and several new horses, and together we have accumulated thousands of additional backcountry miles. I have also been able to begin sharing what I have learned about traveling through the wilderness on horseback through group workshops and individual mentoring of other long-distance riders. But always the part that means the most is the bond I get to create with my equine teammates as we head off into another adventure.

Tips for Meeting Stock Users on the Trail Don’t hide. People sometimes get the temptation to try to hide from the stock to avoid scaring them.

Instead, stay in plain view.

Show them you’re human. When people are wearing big backpacks, hats, and other gear, animals may not immediately recognize them as humans. Talk to them in a calm, normal voice as they approach and pass by to prove that you’re not a threat.

Never try to touch them unless invited to do so. Riders will rarely or never encourage

someone on the ground to approach their mount or pack animals while they’re ‘working’.

Stay downhill. If you’re leaving the trail to

allow stock to pass, which is etiquette, walk to the downhill side of the trail if on a slope.

As a prey species, they will not like an unfamiliar creature perched above them.

Step well off the trail, especially if you have a dog. Pack animals will be carrying

wide loads and need extra room in addition to a comfortable distance from strangers. When possible, allow 10 ft of space or more.

Camp away from the trail. Nothing freaks out stock animals more than passing by a rustling tent next to the trail or having a head pop out suddenly as they’re passing. Be courteous to all users and leave plenty of space between your campsite and the trail.

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TRAIL POLICY AND ADVOCACY

By L. Fischer (they/them) | CDTC Trail Policy Manager

Every year, trail organizations, partners, recreationists, advocates, and other trail enthusiasts come together in Washington D.C. for the annual Hike the Hill event to advocate for the National Trail System, and celebrate the accomplishments of the past year. In 2023, Hike the Hill was co-hosted by the Partnership for the National Trail System and the American Hiking Society for its 26th annual year to continue to push forward the priorities important to our nation’s National Trails. Members of the trail community represented a wide swath of the National Trail System and a diverse group of partners from across the country, who came together not only to elevate the needs of any one trail, but to join together to share a vision for a connected, accessible, and enjoyable National Trail System as was envisioned when Congress first created National Trails in 1968.

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One of the biggest achievements to celebrate every year is the ever-growing success of the shared stewardship model that continues to invest and foster the resiliency of the National Trail System. As one of ten priority areas identified in the U.S. Forest Service’s (USFS) 10-Year Trail Stewardship Challenge, for trails like the Continental Divide Trail (CDT), the importance of the model and the prioritization of our National Trails has never been more evident. Year after year, CDT Gateway Communities, conservation and youth corps, recreationists, volunteers, and other members of the trail community, have worked alongside USFS and other agencies to not only complete the trail, but to actively steward the trail and connect with those enjoying the CDT Experience. CDTC celebrated this continued collaboration with all our agency partners, including USFS as well as the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and National Park Service (NPS), and highlighted ways we think we can continue to see that collaboration grow.

During meetings with the agencies, CDTC was excited to celebrate this collaboration with the biggest Return on Investment to the American people on behalf of the CDT yet. Each year, Congress allocates money to the National Trail System through the agencies that manage each year. In 2023, of the almost $ 1.6 million allocated by Congress to USFS for the management of the CDT, $452,000 went to partners, with $250,000 of that going to CDTC. CDTC was able to leverage those funds into $1.8 million dollars in private dollars (grants, donations, etc.) and, combined with partners, delivered over 76,000 volunteer hours valued at $2.29 million, for a combined total of almost $4.5 million. This means that for the $452,000 invested in the CDT by Congress, our trail community was able to leverage that into $4.5 million, which is a 10/1 Return on Investment to the American public. That is not only an amazing accomplishment from all partners, communities, and volunteers involved, but helps us to continue to advocate for that investment from Congress to continue to grow so that together with our agencies, we can prioritize things like trail completion, landscape protection and connectivity, and outdoor access for all who want to experience the CDT. We bring these great celebrations, accomplished alongside all our partners, to demonstrate to all our members of Congress that investing in the CDT is an investment in the Rocky Mountain West!

This year, CDTC met with members from every CDT state, including new members in the 118th Congress, including Rep. Hageman (WY), Rep. Zinke (NM), Rep. Zinke (MT), Rep. Caraveo (CO), and Rep. Pettersen, to not only thank members who have long supported the CDT, but to also start the journey to make new champions from these newest members of Congress.

“As CDTC reflects on the past year’s accomplishments and looks forward to the future, the voice of our trail community is more important than ever.”

In 2023, our highest priority from Congress, besides continued funding, was support for the CDT Completion Act. This piece of signature legislation is central to the CDT Experience and fundamental to CDTC’s mission to complete, protect, and promote the Continental Divide National Scenic Trail. Luckily, the CDT has amazing champions in Congress, including Rep. Neguse (CO) and Rep. Leger Fernandez (NM) who were the original co-sponsors for the bill when it was introduced last session in the House, and they were joined last year by Senator Heinrich (NM) and Senator Daines (MT) who introduced the bill to the Senate. These champions have continued to support this legislation in the 118th Congress, and CDTC continues to grow excited about the bill’s vision, which is to prioritize the completion of the CDT by the trail’s 50th anniversary in 2028.

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Representatives from Hike the Hill met with Bureau of Land Management agency leaders.

Other priority initiatives CDTC asked for support from members on included efforts to increase outdoor access, protect the Divide landscape, and support rural community development, including: • Increased appropriations for National Trails • The Colorado Outdoor Recreation Act • The Outdoor F.U.T.U.R.E. Initiative • The Lincoln Prosperity Proposal CDTC advocates for these priorities by highlighting past accomplishments and future opportunities for strengthening stewardship, connecting communities, and investing in the CDT. This includes large landscape conservation achievements like the designation of Camp Hale - Continental Divide National Monument by President Biden, thanks to the support of CDT Gateway Communities, recreationists, and community leaders, which protected over 20 miles of the CDT. Last year CDTC also hosted the annual CDT Gateway Community Summit, demonstrating that not only are communities invested in the trail, but are looking for new opportunities to connect with one another and with staff in the agencies and their representatives in Congress. And particularly highlighting the Return on Investment, which models how community-led conservation and volunteering can result in stewardship that is centered on local priorities driven by community leads, strengthening the lasting legacy of the CDT as an experience that is open and enjoyable to all.

As CDTC reflects on the past year’s accomplishments and looks forward to the future, the voice of our trail community is more important than ever. I invite you to join us in advocating for the CDT during one of the many opportunities throughout the year that you can join CDTC and make your voice heard. To stay informed on the latest developments impacting the CDT and learn more about opportunities to use your voice, sign-up for advocacy alerts and mark “Speaking Up for the Trail”.

To learn more about Hike the Hill and CDTC’s priorities, you can read the full 2023 CDTC Congressional Report.

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FULL OF LIFE

Honoring a lasting legacy of true friendship A hike meant to be the start of forever for college sweethearts ended tragically before it began. John Sidells and Rachael Richards were traveling to begin a thru-hike of the Continental Divide Trail when a tragic accident took John’s life. Rachael started that hike with Erik Schultz six weeks later in honor of their friend.

Today, they remain friends, work together, and are deeply invested in preserving John’s memory and the lasting legacy of the CDT. Rachael: John and I met in high school. He was a year older than me and we were actually “frenemies” in high school. We were always picking on each other, but in retrospect, I’m sure it was just expressing an adolescent crush. I went to UC Davis a year after John and ran into him and Erik playing frisbee on the quad. We officially started dating my sophomore year.

We were both very interested in environmental conservation and grizzly bears, so we planned this hike as a hike-a-thon across the CDT in Montana to raise money for a local organization protecting wildlife and landscapes.

The day John died was the first day of our trip to drive from California to Montana to start our hike, and we planned to visit our mutual friend Erik along the way.

After an amazing day climbing and hiking in one of our favorite spots near Davis, John drowned after trying to save our dog who slipped into a nearby river. It was John’s 23rd birthday.

Erik: John and I met as incoming freshmen at U.C. Davis in 1987 and immediately hit it off. He was an easygoing and adventurous person who, early on, decided to prioritize pursuing his passions over material gain. He had such an infectious smile and laugh, and he never seemed upset about anything. We shared so many adventures in so little time!

R: “Full of life” is how everyone described [John]. He just exuded this playfulness and love for life that was

contagious to anyone who met him, and he loved to make people laugh. A sweet memory is of him dressed up in overalls and playing banjo for the little kids at the Davis local pumpkin patch. They would come running and crowd around him as he smiled and played and laughed, with his big bouncy hair and huge smile.

In the aftermath of John’s sudden death, Rachael resolved to honor his legacy by continuing with their planned hike, and Erik felt compelled to join her.

R: I remember clearly the day he died thinking, “I will complete our hike.” I hadn’t told anyone yet, but when I first saw Erik a few days after John passed, he came up to me, hugged me, and told me, “I don’t know if you’re still planning on completing the hike, but if you are, I’m going with you.” Six weeks later, Erik and I were on the trail together.

The first couple of weeks were miserable. We were lost, it rained the entire time, and we were first truly dealing with the reality of John being gone.

E: I don’t think stopping was ever an option we even considered—to honor John meant fulfilling his vision for the hike.

R: We have way more than 53 days of incredible stories to share, the highest of highs and the lowest of lows.

John’s dad, and about 10 college friends, surprised us at our last food supply in Glacier with some of John’s ashes, which we spread along the Glacier portion of our hike.

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R: Erik and I first came up with the vision of what today is now The Arthur B. Schultz Foundation or ABSF. The details have changed, but the optimism and dreams for making the world a better place started during our days together on the trail. He’s more than a brother and mentor to me, and I love and respect him deeply.

In 2023, Rachel and Erik made a generous and remarkable gift to the CDTC in memory of their friend John and the lasting impact of his life and to further the CDTC’s mission of completing and protecting the Trail.

E: Honoring John’s memory and inspiration is the primary legacy, but we also intend this gift to help support CDTC’s efforts to both complete and enhance the trail in the near future. As a trail and a landscape that changed our lives forever, we just want to give something back to ensure that the CDTC can continue working effectively to enhance the trail and the wild areas it traverses.

E: The biggest impact of the hike wasn’t due to the physical challenges. The sense of independence from carrying everything on my back through such a landscape was immeasurable and inspired me to dream bigger.

During the hike, Rachael and I plotted how to get involved with my family’s charitable foundation and leverage its resources to contribute to the causes we cared about. Now 30 years later, Rachael is running the foundation and devoting the entirety of its resources to making the world a better place.

In our professional lives, Rachael and I are both advocates for foundations to invest their resources in harmony with their charitable missions. I’ve launched a different nonprofit foundation spawned from the original one Rachael still runs, focused on supporting and financing social and environmental small businesses—both in the developing world and in underserved parts of the U.S. R: CDTC has managed to accomplish an incredible amount, and the times I’ve personally had on different parts of the Continental Divide have been some of the most memorable and consequential of my life. I also hope people will learn about John, his love of life and wild places, and be inspired by his legacy and motto of living life to the fullest.

The gift to CDTC of our interest in the Kachuwa Impact Fund exemplifies our commitment to equity and environmental responsibility, and we know these values are shared with CDTC. Kachuwa invests in small businesses and real estate targeting the following impact themes: • Environmental conservation and stewardship • Renewable energy and energy efficiency • B-Corp, LEED, organic, and/or fair trade certification • Majority ownership and/or leadership by women or BIPOC • Employee ownership • Cooperatives • Democratic workplaces • Sustainable agriculture, forestry, and land use • Social justice • Community wealth building

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GATEWAY COMMUNITIES

ONWARD TO LORDSBURG! A Southern New Mexico Treasure on the CDT

By Liz Schmit CDTC Community & Outreach Program Manager

CDTC Staff walk with Christine Ortiz along Hwy 10, adjacent to the CDT.

Lordsburg, New Mexico, a small town with a population of just over 2,000, is a hidden gem for outdoor enthusiasts. Situated along the CDT as one of the very first stops for Northbound hikers, Lordsburg is a popular destination for trail users.

The CDT passes through Lordsburg after about 85 miles, making it an ideal spot for hikers to rest, resupply, and take a break from the trail.

More than just a trail town, what makes Lordsburg truly unique is its community involvement with the Continental Divide Trail. It has a rich history, community, and culture, making it a worthwhile stop for any visitor. Local businesses and organizations work together to provide services and support for CDT hikers. That is in part due to Christine Ortiz, Acting Director of the Lordsburg-Hidalgo County Chamber of Commerce. Ortiz, through her energetic leadership and drive, has begun working with her community to make outdoor recreation part of its economic development in partnership with Explore Hidalgo County Outdoors.

Explore Hidalgo County Outdoors (ECHO) has started bringing together community members to enhance collective wellness and boost excitement around outdoor recreation. Ortiz has been instrumental in creating an in-town frisbee golf course, and she will be working with Youth Conservation Corps this summer to map out local areas for bike trail opportunities.

Because there are two opportunities for trail users to visit Lordsburg – starting in town to take the shuttle down to Crazy Cook Monument, then hiking the 80 miles back – Ortiz is looking for ways to connect visitors and locals alike to outdoor opportunities.

Get Outside, Hidalgo! is a new annual event occurring each April and is just one of the new initiatives Ortiz and ECHO are launching. Planned as a fun 24 hours of outdoor activities, the event brings together hikers, Trail Angels (local volunteers who provide support and assistance to hikers), and community members for a CDT hiker kick-off event full of music, food, activities, and informational booths.

The community supports hikers through a Trail Angel program, where locals provide free lodging, showers, and meals for hikers passing through town. This program helps hikers save money on their journey and provides an opportunity to connect with locals and learn more about the area. ECHO also hosts a CDT

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Entryway of the CDTC Shuttle hub.

hiker shuttle out of one of their buildings in town and is developing the building as a day-use facility for hikers.

These resources are part of the hub that creates a special, communal aspect of the CDT Lordsburg experience.

Community involvement with the CDT goes beyond just supporting hikers. Lordsburg has a long and fascinating history, dating back to the days of the Old West. The town was founded in the late 19th century as a railroad stop and has seen its share of boom and bust cycles over the years.

Did you know Lordsburg is the birthplace of the official New Mexico state song ‘O Fair New Mexico’?

Vigas supporting inside of the Lordsburg-Hidalgo County library

In addition to its history, Lordsburg is also home to vibrant arts and culture. The Hidalgo County Arts Council hosts regular exhibits and events featuring local artists, musicians, and performers. The council also sponsors a youth art program, providing young people in the community with opportunities to explore their creativity and develop their skills. Architecturally speaking, even the Lordsburg-Hidalgo County library boasts original adobe walls and vigas supporting the roof. Walking inside, the library proudly has a sign stating that it is a space welcome and accessible for all. Noise is encouraged, and the fun continues within the walls and outside. It seems Lordsburg carries this message throughout town.

Lordburg’s involvement with the CDT, history, culture– and even the abundance of pecan trees–make the town a fascinating and unique destination. Whether you’re a hiker passing through town or someone looking to explore the rich cultural heritage of the American Southwest, Lordsburg has something to offer. It’s a reminder that even the smallest towns can be full of surprises and hidden treasures waiting to be discovered.

Lordburg’s involvement with the CDT, history, culture–and even the abundance of pecan trees–make the town a fascinating and unique destination. Whether you’re a hiker passing through town or someone looking to explore the rich cultural heritage of the American Southwest, Lordsburg has something to offer. It’s a reminder that even the smallest towns can be full of surprises and hidden treasures waiting to be discovered.

(Onward to Lordsburg walking along the CDT)

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TRAIL TOWNS

By Audra Labert (she/her) CDTC Communications Manager

The town of Jackson sits nestled in the Big Hole Valley of Montana. Jackson is located close to the Continental Divide Trail and embraces a variety of tourism throughout the year while providing unique services to CDT thru-hikers and section hikers.

Rick Harwood, local hotelier, town spokesperson, and occasional thru-hiker first responder offered insights on the town, the Bunkhouse Hotel, and the oddities of neighboring the CDT.

THE BUNKHOUSE HOTEL A LOCAL DESTINATION AND CDT HIKER OASIS. The Bunkhouse Hotel, owned and operated by Rick Harwood, was built in 1910 and is one of Jackson’s anchor businesses. In addition to offering services to tourists and hikers, from overnight accommodations and hot showers to laundry, the Hotel also serves as the local post office.

Jackson, Montana Big Hole Valley, Beaverhead County, about 10 miles to the Minor Lake interchange on the Continental Divide Trail along the IdahoMontana border.

Ancestral lands of the Cayuse, Umatilla, Walla Walla, Kootenai, Shoshone-Bannock, and Salish.

In the Big Hole Valley where The Battle of the Big Hole was fought in the Montana Territory, August 9–10, 1877, between the United States Army and the Nez Perce tribe of Native Americans (Nimipuu) during the Nez Perce War. Population: 36 year-round residents Economy: Ranching, tourism

“The Hotel does serve as a focal point, and because we’re so small, we are one of the few post offices that will accept general deliveries for CDT hikers, which has been a huge thing,” Harwood said. “Not a lot of folks will allow a package addressed to ‘Iron Skillet’ or ‘Rainbow’ or ‘Brook Trout’ to be delivered,” he adds with a laugh.

Although newly renovated on the inside, from the outside, the Bunkhouse Hotel brought back visions of the old West, with its tall front facade and open, welcoming front porch. The quaint and historic aesthetic even drew TV crews to the small community of Jackson during the summer of 2022 to shoot the hit show Yellowstone.

Jackson was once one of the many mining towns that dotted the Rockies, but the community is now primarily a tourist destination and outpost for the local ranching community. Across the street from the Bunkhouse Hotel is Jackson Hot Springs, whose claim to fame–in addition to offering relaxing soaks–is that the Lewis & Clark Expedition cooked a rabbit in the bubbling hot water during their expedition.

CDTC Survey Focuses on Trail Town Economics Evaluating the impacts of seasonal influxes into communities adjacent to the CDT has been part of the focus of CDTC during the past year. A small business survey was conducted in the five states that encompass the CDT: Montana, Wyoming, Idaho, Colorado, and New Mexico. The report surveyed business owners (hospitality, recreation, retail, services) to determine the values, priorities, and economics of communities adjacent to the CDT. Established as a National Scenic Trail in 1968, the Continental Divide Trail is a U.S. Forest Service-administered trail that protects the natural, cultural, and historic resources along its length, while providing increased access to the Divide landscape, including the 20 National Forests, 25 Wilderness areas, 3 National Parks, 1 National Monument, and 13 BLM resource areas the trail connects. The CDT offers a variety of hiking, equestrian, fishing, birdwatching, skiing, and other recreational opportunities along its 3,100 miles.

As it runs from the border with Mexico to the border with Canada along the Continental Divide, the CDT traverses through and near mountain communities whose economies are increasingly bolstered by visitors and recreationists accessing nearby public lands. Outdoor recreation is an economic powerhouse along the CDT.

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CDT States’ Outdoor Recreation Economies

Rankings amongst all 50 states, outdoor recreation as a percentage of state GDP Source: Headwater Economics

#1

#4

#8

#11

#27

Montana: 3.8% of the state GDP, Jobs: 44K

Wyoming: 3.4% of the state GDP, Jobs: 14K

Idaho: 2.7% of the state GDP, Jobs: 30K

Colorado: 2.5% of the state GDP, Jobs: 120K

New Mexico: 1.9% of the GDP, Jobs: 26K

Business owners in CDT communities have experienced a positive impact from the CDT and support enhancing and protecting the trail and the surroundin landscape.

78% believe protecting, promoting, and enhancing the Continental Divide Trail is important to the well-being of businesses, jobs, and their community’s economy.

80% have seen growth in business in their community at large due to use of the Continental Divide Trail since 2014.

60% have experienced growth in their business in particular due to use of the Continental Divide Trail since 2014.

The CDTC started the Gateway Community Program to work with local communities in promoting the CDT as a resource for all. “Not everyone who uses the CDT is a thru-hiker, and part of our work with Gateway communities is to promote all of the options for interacting with the Trail, from day-hiking with the family to fishing and horseback riding,” said Liz Schmit, CDTC Community and Outreach Program Manager. Towns and counties designated as official CDT Gateway Communities are those that CDTC recognizes as friendly to trail users and dedicated to the completion and protection of the trail.

Expecting the unexpected Back at the Bunkhouse Hotel, Harwood sounded like a veteran Trail town guide as he shared stories about travelers.

He spoke of receiving a frantic call from a mother in Pennsylvania who was trying to have her son, a CDT thru-hiker, evacuated due to an injury. Imagining the worst, Harwood drove his side-by-side to where he expected to find the injured hiker based on the mother’s instructions. During his exchange with the frantic mother, Harwood remembered thinking, “Okay, are we talking about the sheriff’s office, search and rescue, or are we talking about a helicopter?” Harwood shared the surprising encounter that followed: “So I grabbed the backpack, jumped on my little side-by-side, and I went riding up the trail, about half of a mile from the Minor Lake Trailhead in the campground. Here comes this guy walking down the trail. And I said, are you Skillet? And he goes, yeah, yeah. And I go, I thought you blew out your knee! He goes, Well, it’s just a little tender. So, do you know your mom is ready to launch the National Guard? She thinks you’re dying!”

Despite the inconvenience, Harwood didn’t seem to mind, and he often goes the ‘extra mile’ to help hikers who are stuck, need a ride, or want to shuttle their gear ahead, also known as ‘slack packing’. Although the occasional emergency does occur, according to Harwood, most folks who pass through Jackson and the Bunkhouse Hotel are looking for three things–a cold beer, a hot shower, and a cheeseburger.

Please contact CDTC Communications Manager Audra Labert with questions about Trail Town features: alabert@continentaldividetrail.org.

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CULTURAL CONNECTIONS TO THE LAND Youth hikes on the Continental Divide Trail gain traction in New Mexico

By CDTC Staff

The Continental Divide Trail Coalition (CDTC) New Mexico Regional Representative created a program to provide new opportunities for youth to engage and support projects on the Continental Divide Trail. Corey Torivio, CDTC Regional Representative and member of the Pueblo of Acoma led youth on guided hikes along the CDT in El Malpais National Monument. Each hike included different educational and service components, such as picking up litter or basic trail maintenance.

“It’s always been a goal of mine to help create something for our youth,” said Torivio, “because of the importance that they have in the future of society and the leadership role that they’re going to play. I want to have our kids learn the values that Mother Nature has to offer.”

The hiking groups resulted from a collaborative effort made possible by the United States Forest Service Cost Share Grant, the El Malpais National Monument, the National Park Service (Dark Skies Initiative), CDTC, and the Pueblo of Acoma. Youth ages 8-25 are provided with stewardship education, opportunities to learn about the Ancestral significance of the landscape, and given a first-time experience on the CDT. The response to the program has been overwhelmingly positive, though Torivio shared some initial reactions from participants: “At first the reaction is one that any child would have when they’re young. ‘Why am I out here?’ ‘I don’t want to go hiking.’ ‘It’s cold, or it’s hot.’

‘It’s raining, or it’s blowing’.” But, Torivio was unfazed by the lack of enthusiasm from the participants early in the program.

“That’s what we want to hear from the kids. It tells us that we’re showing them an experience that they have never seen before,” Torivio added. He enjoys watching the kids’ reactions transform from grumbles to excitement when, a few days later, their questions change to excitement and anticipation of the next adventure. The youth also engaged as a group in public “Star Parties” to share Indigenous star stories as part of the El Malpais Dark Night Sky Initiative. So CDTC created a Hiking & Training Guide to serve as a valuable educational and training tool while allowing youth to engage in an outdoor setting.

In collaboration with the Acoma and Zuni Pueblos, hiking guides integrated the Keres and Zuni languages.

They educated youth about the significance of language in connection to the land, their culture, and their religious values.

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Torivio said that this is just the beginning and that his hope is for programs that connect youth to their ancestral culture and the landscape to gain traction nationally. “My plan and vision are not just to teach one group of children and youth about this, but to share it with everyone,” said Torivio, who recognizes the concept as applying to a wide audience. The CDTC Youth Hiking Club joins a list of other organizations seeking to reconnect Indigenous youth to their landscape and culture. The New Mexico-based Ancestral Lands Conservation Corps focuses on high school-aged youth and engages in a variety of community projects and land-based learning opportunities.

Torivio also shared, “We all have a part in protecting the nation, and it’s not for me or for those my age. We need to think about the future– seven generations out– that is going to continue what we started.”

2022 New Mexico Youth Hiking: Miles Hiked: Acoma/Zuni Trail 6 miles, Lava Falls Trail 4 miles, Sand Bluffs Area 8 miles, El Calderon 4 miles, Zuni/Acoma Trail 4 miles Total Miles: 26 miles of trail in the El Malpais National Monument Area Education/Interaction Hours completed: 10 hours Youth Participants: 18 Acoma/Zuni Youth 8 to 14yrs. old 3 Acoma, 3 Zuni Youth 16 to 25yrs. old Parent/Guardian participation: 10 Traditional/Religious Elders: 1 Acoma Elder, 1 Zuni Elder For more information, contact Cornell “Corey” Torivio (he/him), CDTC New Mexico Regional Representative: ctorivio@continentaldividetrail.org.

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THE BEAT IN THE BOOTHEEL

By Shandiin Nez (she/they) CDTC Southern New Mexico Policy Fellow

Ya’at’eeh! I’m Shandiin Nez, the Southern New Mexico Policy Fellow with CDTC. I started in January of 2023. I am excited to get to work on amplifying the trail, land protections, community-led conservation, and Indigenous voices. I grew up in the washes, up the sandstone mesas, and among the pinon junipers that rose before giving way to ponderosa pine and, higher up, spruce and aspen of the Chuska Mountains in New Mexico.

I have been working on building and maintaining trails since the summer of 2013, with a break to do some landscaping, and finally onto working with the Ancestral Lands Conservation Corps as a staff member managing programs in Gallup, New Mexico.

Working with Indigenous young adults inspired me to have a broader impact and to continue to be a role model for people who share my identity.

As the Southern NM Policy Fellow, I will be focusing on the trail and landscape protections within the Bootheel region and potentially extending myself up to central New Mexico as well. There have been a lot of awesome facts I’ve been discovering about the area in my short time with CDTC.

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WHAT IS THE BOOTHEEL? The Bootheel is the heel of the boot in the southwestern corner of New Mexico and includes Hidalgo County and parts of Grant County. This is the beginning of the trail from the southern terminus at the US-Mexico border. The terminus is the southern origin of the trail where people hike from Crazy Cook Monument after taking a shuttle from Lordsburg down a highway, and carefully navigating dirt roads.

The Bootheel region is home to a variety of plant and animal species that are found nowhere else in the world.

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Learn more at bigagnes.com Photo: Noah Wetzel PAGE 32

For Northbounders on a thru-hike, this is the start of a big accomplishment; New Mexico makes up 820 miles of trail, and in the Bootheel, the trail is about 158 miles from Crazy Cook Monument to Silver City, NM. This area, rich in history and biodiversity, has a lot to offer residents and visitors alike.

The Bootheel region is home to a variety of plant and animal species that are found nowhere else in the world. This is partly due to the area’s location at the crossroads of several different ecological regions, including the Sonoran and Chihuahuan Deserts and the Rocky Mountains. There are grasslands, riparian areas, and wetlands within these habitats that support a high level of biodiversity; the Bootheel is one of the most biologically diverse places in the United States!

These habitats provide food, shelter, and breeding grounds for a variety of wildlife, including many threatened and endangered species. For example, this region is an important migratory corridor for several bird species, including sandhill cranes, snow geese, and various others. The region’s ciénega and riparian areas provide critical stopover sites for

these birds to migrate between their summer and winter habitats. A ciénega is a wetland system unique to the American Southwest.

There’s a lot of cultural history here as well. Indigenous people have been here for time immemorial. These tribal nations are the Fort Sill/Warm Springs Apache, Chiricahua Apache, Mescalero Apache, Piro-Manso-Tiwa, Ysleta Del Sur, Tohono O’odham, and other connected tribes.

They were systematically and violently removed from their homelands, food systems, and sacred places. Though forcibly relocated from their homelands, some tribes still live in the region, mostly in Arizona, near the Rio Grande River, and as far as Oklahoma, where the Warm Springs Apache were forced during colonial expansion. The Spanish settled in the region and played a key role in developing the state of New Mexico, including historic architecture. The Bootheel’s economy is now shaped by its

long history of ranching, agriculture, and mining.

Many ranchers and farmers in the area continue to raise cattle and grow crops.

The Bootheel region of New Mexico is an important area for biodiversity because it supports a variety of unique and threatened plant and animal species. It has a rich cultural history, which contributes to the character and identity of the region that all help to make up the CDT experience.

Continental Divide Trail - New Mexico Bootheel Silver City

Bureau of Land Management

Gateway Communities

Bureau of Reclamation

Continental Divide Trail

Fish and Wildlife Service

Distance (Miles) 0

6

13

25

38

50

±

USGS The National Map: National Boundaries Dataset, 3DEP Elevation Program, Geographic Names Information System, National Hydrography Dataset, National Land Cover Database, National Structures Dataset, and National Transportation Dataset; USGS Global Ecosystems; U.S. Census Bureau TIGER/Line data; USFS Road Data; Natural Earth Data; U.S. Department of State Humanitarian Information Unit; and NOAA National Centers for Environmental Information, U.S. Coastal Relief Model. Data refreshed June, 2022.

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From

Winter to Spring: PHOTOS FROM THE HEART OF YELLOWSTONE

By Samara Chapman Duffey

A Yellowstone Park guide and photographer offers rare glimpses into the vibrant life found in a snowcovered Yellowstone National Park.

Samsara Chapman Duffey offers her unique perspective and the story behind the photo.

THE ICONIC BISON This image was captured on a cold (probably around or below 0) morning along the Madison River. The Madison doesn’t freeze from the West Entrance to Madison Junction and provides a wonderful winter refuge for feathered and furred animals.

The bison are so well insulated the cold doesn’t seem to bother them and they are often coated in frost on these chilly mornings. On this particular day, the morning sun was just at the right angle to give this guy a beautiful halo.

THE PACK I think the #1 request of Park visitors is to see wolves. The winter of 2021/2022 gave us phenomenal viewing opportunities when a pack decided to hang out in the Lower Geyser Basin and hunt bison along the road. This winter was different. I know a pack was seen in early January, then some of us guides would see a single animal’s tracks along the road, but no other sightings were reported. Then, on February 6, I looked upstream along a thermal-fed stream and saw a single black wolf fading in and out of the steam. We were able to stop and spend 5 minutes with the larger group of about 10 wolves before they disappeared into the steam and trees, after treating us to a group howl.

SNOW-KEPT SECRETS On the morning of January 9, I was traveling upstream in Firehole Canyon and looking toward the view of Firehole Falls when one of my passengers said, “There is a dead coyote across the river!” I put the coach in reverse and backed up. Sure enough, there was a carcass, but it was a female mule deer, not a coyote. The snow at the base of the lava flow cliff was mostly untouched except for two impact craters. The deer had made the larger and then bounced to where we saw it. Scanning the hillside, I saw a single set of tracks from the smaller crater that led up to the base of the cliff where a bobcat was sitting. For the next ten days, the cat feasted on and protected the carcass. One of the first things it did was to cover the deer with snow. This image was taken three days later during one of the few times some ravens thought about trying to share. The bobcat watched them as they flew over, then thought better about approaching the cat too closely.

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QUIET MEETING People either book individual seats or charter the entire coach. I had two days where one gentleman chartered the coach with the goal of spending time photographing wildlife in the winter. I love days like this because we get to spend more time with a subject instead of trying to balance the wishes of the entire group. We spent the day between Canyon Village and Fishing Bridge where my guest was loving the snowy landscapes and frosty bison. Before departing the area, I took him to a location a Pine Marten was known to be frequenting. We found the weasel napping in the trees near its den and were able to spend about 20 magical minutes with it sleeping, stretching, yawning, and not being bothered by our presence.

HOT-BLOODED The entire Yellowstone ecosystem and geology is driven by the fact that it is an active volcano. The hot spot that has uplifted the area continues to heat water at great depths in the earth’s crust. This hot water rises through the ground, seeking out cracks that allow it to escape toward the sky in the different features we get to thrill with. One type of feature is the geysers that amaze and enthrall watchers when we are lucky enough to catch one in eruption.

Castle Geyser is thought to be one of the oldest geysers in the Park as determined by the size of its cone. This image was taken when I was guiding a photographer and we were lucky enough to be near it in the Upper Geyser Basin when it erupted. It was a rare sunny day this winter, and we were able to capture a rainbow in the spray.

One of my favorite geysers, Cliff, can be a challenge to see the water on cold days when the steam envelops the area during an eruption. My husband gifted me with an infrared camera that attaches to my phone so I could see the temperature gradients during my time in the Park. Cliff Geyser shoots jets of water 40’ in the area when its pool is full. The force of the jets causes water to flow over the wall of the feature into Iron Spring Creek, a tributary of the Firehole River. The brightest areas in the image are the hottest water coming out of the ground.

IMAGES OF BIRDS A wading bird that nests in colonies, this solitary Great Blue heron is a treasured surprise when it is spotted on the edges of the Madison all winter long. It typically is seen in the cattail beds or clumps of rushes that sporadically grow in the shallower waters. Sometimes we are treated to seeing it catch and eat small fish.

The main watershed I visit is that of the upper Madison. The Gibbon and Firehole Rivers merge near Madison Junction to form one of the three forks that become the Missouri about 100 miles downstream from that joining. Both the Firehole and Gibbon are drainages for many thermal features ranging from Old Faithful to Norris Geyser Basin. Because of the hot water influence, these rivers (and by extension, the Madison) flow all winter long and are refuges for a wide variety of water-oriented birds. Some that are commonly seen all winter long include Mallards, American widgeon, Gadwall, Common mergansers, Trumpeter swans, and Bald eagles. These three images show three of my favorites: a Great Blue heron, an American dipper, and a Trumpeter swan.

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American dippers are North America’s only aquatic songbird and they thrive in fast-flowing waters. These fist-sized birds walk and fly under the water to catch aquatic invertebrates. This particular one lives in the Firehole River a few miles south of Madison Junction and is comfortable hunting close to the shore of the river. These are some of the first heralds of spring along my routes when they start singing in the middle of February.

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Thermal areas are driven by hot water nearing the surface, causing the ground to stay warm all winter long. The area near the Fountain Paint Pots is often around 50 degrees and supports mosses, fungi, and vascular plants. I always watch the northwest end of the area for early spring flowers. This year I spotted a dandelion blooming on February 17.

These mushroom caps are slightly smaller than an M&M and pop up as the daylight hours increase.

MEET THE PHOTOGRAPHER:

A lifelong Montana resident, I moved to West Yellowstone from Helena when I married in 2015.

Before that, I ran an outdoor education program from fall to spring and spent my summers working for the Forest Service in the Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex. My outreach programs have always had an emphasis on place-based education and I have had to expand my range to include visitors from around the world to our nation’s first National Park.

In the summer months, I continue to serve as a Fire Lookout on the east side of the Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex, looking down on the CDT as it passes through my viewshed. In the shoulder seasons, I can be found hiking or skiing with my dog, Mae, and my husband, Mark, in one of the many outstanding places our environment provides.

All photos were taken during the 2022 to 2023 winters by Samsara Duffey while working for Yellowstone Expeditions. Images were captured with either a 500mm lens, then cropped, or my iPhone 14 Pro.

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WHEN TRAIL ANGELS GET THEIR WINGS

By Whitney La Ruffa (he/him)

Arlier this year, the Continental Divide Trail Community lost its original Trail Angel when Nita Larronde passed away. Nita was a legend on the CDT, and she had been hosting hikers for as long as anyone can remember at her home in Pie Town, NM, known as the Toaster House. This small home located right along the CDT in Pie Town has hosted numerous hikers, bikers, and other human-powered travelers over the years. Nita not only lived in this home and hosted hikers, but it’s also where she raised her 5 children, even giving birth to some at home.

After years in the small house, Nita built a larger home a few minutes away where she lived, but in the true Trail Angel way, she kept the Toaster House as a place for hikers and bikers to use a self-service hostel of sorts. Pie Town is a tiny little town, and the Toaster House has been the only town lodging option for travelers over the years. Ask any CDT hiker about Pie Town, and you are sure to get a story about their time at the Toaster House.

If you ever had the chance to meet Nita, there is no doubt you walked away smiling, and saying to yourself, “That is the nicest person I have ever met in my life”. Nita always had a big smile on her face and would give you any help she could, but mainly she just made you immediately feel like one of the family. I first had the honor of getting to know Nita back in 2015 when I was the President of ALDHA-West (American Long Distance Hiking Association-West).

That was the year that Nita received the Martin Papendick Award for Trail Angel of the Year.

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The Award ceremony at that year’s gathering on Mt Hood was awesome. So many hikers came and shared their stories of Nita’s hospitality, and some of her daughters came to see her being honored for the help she had provided to so many strangers. It was a very special evening, and Nita was so proud of winning that award that she carried it with her everywhere for the next year. It was then decided by the board of ALDHA-West that the physical award should stay at the Toaster House, and to this day, the Bronze Boot sits atop the archway to the Toaster House, greeting each visitor as they enter.

In 2016, I was thru-hiking the CDT and Nita told me that I needed to let her know when I would be in Pie Town so she could make sure she was there to see me. Once I started on the trail I gave her the date I planned to arrive and she told me she would fly home early from Hawaii just to see me, a true honor.

Well, the old “best-laid plans of mice and men” got the better of me, and the second night out of Doc Campbells, I got sick as a dog. For the next two days, I had a fever and the dreaded vomit and diarrhea combo.

My mileage dropped way down, and there it was: No way I would be to Pie Town when I said I would. However, a few days of being sick on the trail subsided, and the day I said I would be there I awoke 39.8 miles from Pie Town. I told my hiking partner who had been caring for me, “Let’s go to Pie Town today”. He said, “No way am I doing that many miles…”

By mid-day, we were atop Mangus Mountain visiting the fire lookout there and I begged my partner to text our friends already in Pie Town to see if they could meet us somewhere and slack-pack us the last 13 miles to town. Well, a lot of things came together and at dusk that evening I walked through the arch of the Toaster House. I was greeted by Nita, handed a cold beer, and welcomed to a feast! Nita had opened the freezers that day and pulled out piles of food for my other hiking partners to make a huge meal for the 27 of us that happened to be there. She even cut some fresh zucchini flowers from her garden to be roasted and enjoyed. We sat around all night joking, telling stories and just being embraced in that love that Nita had for all.

The next day she lent me her old Ford e-350 pickup so some other hikers and I could travel to Socorro to visit the Very Large Array (VLA), and then that evening she came and took a truckload of us out to her friend’s house for a star party. Her friend was an astronomer at the VLA and had an 8’ telescope in their backyard, it was by far the greatest zero day I have ever had.

THE MOST

TRUSTED HIKING SOCK IN THE WORLD

I was able to see Nita a few more times since that hike while traveling in the area for work or trail events. It was always a joy to be around her and catch up on life. Some things never changed though: She was still smiling, and she was still the kindest person I had ever met. If someone ever asked me what the embodiment of love is, I would say look no further than Nita Larronde.

It was a very sad day when I heard of her passing, for I not only lost a friend that I cared about and respected, but the trail community lost one of the greatest Trail Angels ever known. My heart goes out to Nita’s family, the community of Pie Town, and all of those who, like me, are going to miss her smiling face, warm hugs, and kindness to strangers and travelers.

Godspeed my friend, and may you now rest in peace…

THE CDT SOCK

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MEDIA ROUNDUP We asked, you delivered.

Here are the top 10 songs from our Instagram question, “What song is #1 on your list for outdoorsy feels?”

Morning Beck

You Might Find Yours Tom Rosenthal

Orange Blood Mt. Joy

(Nothing But) Flowers Talking Heads

Summit Song Nicole Dollanger

Walk Pantera

Welcome Home, Son Radical Face

As We Ran The National Parks

Society Eddie Vedder

Run it My Morning Jacket

Trail Tunes

Listen on Spotify

PODCAST | 99% INVISIBLE: THE WILDERNESS TOOL This podcast follows the rise, fall, and eventual rise again of the cross-cut saw following the birth of the concept of Wilderness in the United States. But is the idea of a ‘pristine’ landscape accurate… or even possible?

CDTC’s own Shandiin Nez is featured in this engaging narrative: “... before I became as involved with outdoor recreation, working on trails and increasing that access, I did have this romanticized thought- a colonized thought of like, ‘wow, this is really beautiful and keeping it in this pristine state.’ I realized that uninhabited land is a myth.”

BOOKS FOR OUTDOOR INSPIRATION Free Outside, Jeff Garmire Last Season, Eric Blehm Fox and I: An Uncommon Friendship, Catherine Raven Author Anna McNuff, assorted titles Billionaire Wilderness, Justin Farrell Deux pas vers l’autre, @further.stories

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CDT SUPPORTERS Members are the core of our organization and its efforts to protect the Continental Divide Trail. By being a member, you support the protection of the CDT and our work to build a broad-based community of people who love and support the Trail. Thank you!

CDT EXPLORERS

CDT Explorers support CDTC with donations of $100 or more. We wish to thank the individuals below for the generous donations they made between January 1 and April 30th!

$100-$499 Aaron Borowski Allan Slocum Amorena Simpson Amy Kunugi Andy And Stephanie Renner Anna Flessner Anonymous Audrey Ewin Bailie Bechtel Barns Gift Fund William Barns Bart Martin Becky Steenburg Belinda/Richard Jentzen Bernard Wolf Callie Schieffer Carly Thurston Carol Caroline & Travis Trani Chris & Debbie Ellefson Chris Widmer Christian Ibarra-Rivera Christopher Mills Colleen Moore Corportate Match Todd Oiesen Courtney Foley Daniel Waldner David Evans David Root David Tandberg Dede Williams Don Davis Donald Lenc Doug Ball Dr. William Schumann Earl & Karen Philips Edward Smelko Edward Stanford Elizabeth Quill Eric Bailey

Eric Shaw White Gerald And Lavonne Nielsen Gwinn Charitable Gift Fund David M. Gwinn Ira Hale Jackie Scheidegger James Clare James Fowler James Madden James Thompson Janice Watkins Jay Bush Jim & Jane Rose Jim And Carol Pierce Jim Salyers Jitendra Trivedi Joe Morris Joesph Morris John Anderson John Poppe John Wieland Jon & Lisa Bouknight Jonathan Grief Joseph Holland Judy Owsley Julia Youngblood Julie Ellefson Karl Luce Kathleen Tatter Kevin Myers Kristina Lewis Kristine Mol Lauren Schmidt Lauren Schmidt Linda Ramus Lora Lattanzi Mal Sillars Marc Mauger Marianne Skeen Mark Filstrup Mark Hammer Mark Risner Mark Stanley

Mary Mckinley Mary Moynihan Mckenna Oney Megan Strauss Michael Dilorenzo Michael Milone Michael Sudduth Mike Ksenyak Neil Kreuger Page Kretsinger Patrick Dixon Patrick Madison Paula & Wayne Sayer Peter Steiner Peter Talluto Philip Dehoyos Rachel Ballard Rachel Dehoyos Randi Young Robert Elliott Robertson Charitable Fund Jeffrey S. Robertson Rochelle Ruark Roger Hahn Ron Harper Russell Forey Samantha Langston Scott Davis Seanette Meserole Sharon L Crawford Shelby Hallmark Shon Davis Spice Russell Steve & Lisa Reynolds Steven Reneau Steven Staley Sue Pearson Susan Coe Brown Taran Webber Ted Hitzroth The Jesse Fund Dr. Rick Babcock Thomas Allan Weaver Thomas Ewing

Todd Oiesen Tonya Detten Travis Chapin Tristan Brennan Tyler Williamson Vernon Jarboe Vi Schweiker Victoria Ksenyak Vince Auriemma Wendy Wicke Wendy Wicke Whitney Laruffa William Erler William Mcintyre William Montfort William Rhodes Mayes William Wernsing Mark Filstrup Company Match Susan Janssen Zach And Becky Margolis Rachel Vermeal Eno Hammock Gary Wiens Kathleen Lynch Miles Hinton Robert Roane David Fortune Mark Nicholson Amazon Smile Eric Kline And Dara Aisner Adam Thompson Andreas Rein April Calaway Bryan Shuman Corportate Match Jillian Ardrey Derek Solum Hannah King Jana Willsey Jenny Primm Jillian Ardrey John Bartholow Juan Sáez Kent And Cheryl Brown

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CDT EXPLORERS

Kevin Kim Lise Plantier Lori Enlow Malcolm Hicks Margaret Lee Robinson Melanie Martinez Naji Husseini Nicholas O’Ryon Peter Talluto Ron Olson Shea Rivers Sheri L Atkinson Silke Koester Steven Shattuck Thomas Luebben Trisha Ignatowski Zachary King Amazon Smile Terry Neill King Soopers Gossamer Gear Andrea Steffens Caleb Efta Charles Dorsey Elizabeth Morton Jane Venohr John Mcnamee Joseph Younger Kenneth Heuer Oboz Owsley Rentals (Charles Owsley) Patricia A Klass Peter Leven Peter Sellstrom Phil Goulding Robert Walker

Ryan Lim Tierra Wools Karla Hayes Kevin League Alex Kurtz Mudpie Design Co Alexander St. Angelo Bernard Morenz Brad Whitney Bradley Bailey Brent Ramsby Brian Deames Brian Micheletti Bruce Leiding Chet Dixon Chris Burke Clancy Clark Clancy Clark Daniel Tyler David Oram Don And Amy Owen Duncan Legg Elizabeth Glass Gail Moore In Memory Of Louis And Nona Tyler Gary Werner Geoffrey Mcvie James Liebman Jeanie Youngwerth Jeff & Diane Buffo Jeff Owsley Jennifer Soughton Jerilynn Francis Jim Borden Joanne And Bill Lasher John Hamilton Keith Gramila Kent Price

$500-$999

$1,000-$9,999

Dr Karen Kennicott And Jim Sells Family Dr. Wendy Watson Dylan Tonkin Ginny Too Margaret Rice Dave Scheibel Mcclure Family Charitable Fund Mr. And Mrs. Mcclure Robert T Reeves Anitra Kass Karla Roquemore Laura Alpert Susan Tomajko Ginny Too Kirk Mcwethy Anonymous

Aristide Chakeres Arthur And Denise Foley Barney And Sandy Mann Chris Alonso Christine Hersh Christopher Bouck David Rolsten Doug Shaw Evan Gartley Evan Gartley James Bolt Jim Eagleton John West Julie & Timothy Smith Philip Lovato Robert Doyle Bob Walker And Cristy Godwin Roger Carpenter Dr. Francis Siracusa Teresa Martinez Thomas & Diane Schuler Zack And Jen Stockbridge

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Kevin Burns Kirk Nelson Larry Michael Graham Lauren Dix Liatris Studer Marcus Valencia Margaret Bash Michael Bursum Nancy Huber Pattie Swift Paul Wemyss Ray Uttaro Richard Allen Richard Sayre Rick Ostheimer Robert Spong Ross Mcfarland Sarah Van Cleve And Ben Applenaum-Bauch Scott Nichols Sean Ryall Sebastian Clough Thomas Mccollum Tom Mcevoy Donna L. Blackmon And Timothy Mcguire Amy Camp Jacqueline Bouker Karen Murphy Kerry Shakarjian Louden Family Foundation Michael Underwood Owen Eigenbrot Corportate Match Peter Leven Greg Mauger Terry Neill Mary Davison

Neil Lacey Vivian Wilson Charles Sweeney Jr. Kathleen Lynch Cheryl And Darryl Annett Jim Skelding And Tracy Holland Steve Schindler Emily Mcnabb Trina Gibbs Gregory Pierce Lon Cooper

$10,000+ Alex Milona Chris and Mary Alonso Daniel Collins Mitchell H. Lasky & Cecilia M. Barajas Robert J Weggel Anonymous Anonymous

CORPORATE PARTNERS

CDTC is also supported by businesses and corporations who provide monetary and in-kind donations. For more information on how your company or business may collaborate with CDTC, please contact Director of Development, Lauren Murray at lmurray@continentaldividetrail.org. Thank you to the following businesses for supporting the Continental Divide Trail as CDTC members and corporate sponsors this year.

TRAILBLAZER

EXPLORER

PATHFINDER

SCOUT

ULA Equipment YETI

Buff ENO Big Agnes Outside Magazine Zpacks Honey Stinger Woolrich Oboz Footwear Six Moon Designs REI Osprey Backpacker Pantry

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Monarch at the Crest Sawyer The Trek Montbell Far Out Guides LEKI Mountainsmith Six Moon Designs Dueter TOAKS Outdoor CO Native Gossamer Gear AllTrails Melanzana Blackfoot River Brewing The Tent Lab Readywise Meals PACT Outdoors

Vasque Golden Mill Taos Ski Valley Resort Big Sky Resort Point6 SOLE Seek Dry Goods The Base Camp HomeLight Triple Crown Coffee Hiiker Katabatic Gear One in a Million Vacation Home Town Shirt Co. Vapur Storm Peak Brewing Enlightened Equipment

BUSINESS MEMBERS

The Village at North Fork La Cumbre Brewing Co Ten Mile Creek Brewery Golden Mill The Base Camp Murray Hotel MST Adventures Kevin League Photography Vigilante Shuttles & Tours Triple Crown Coffee Integrity Tattoo Pintler’s Portal Hostel Downtown Helena, Inc Helena Business Improvement District LOCAL Linked Adventures Seeley Lake Montana Vacation

Miller’s Boots and Shoes Lazy Acres Campground Morning Star Sports Backslope Brewing Dry Point Distillers Darkhorse Band Salida Mountain Sports Bosque Brewing Wood’s High Mountain Distillery Snowy Mountain Brewing Ten Mile Creek Brewery Inscription Rock Trading/Cabins Beneath the Mesa Last Best Supply Co Loft Helena Point S Tires Gulch Distillers

Power and Light Lamber Goodnow Rinconada Adventures, LLC HKM Employment Attornies Twin Lakes General Store Storm Peak Brewing Little Toad Creek Brewery & Distillery Tierra Wools Michael Underwood Photography

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CHARTER MEMBERS

CDTC Charter Members helped build the base of support necessary to help launch CDTC’s efforts in 2012. CDTC owes an incredible debt of gratitude to these important supporters.

Rex Alford & Alice Pierson Gene Allen Vince Auriemma Roanoke Appalachian Trail Club Mark Bankey Chris & Sanne Bagby Mike Bates Susan Bates Lyndon Berry Jim Boeck & Vivian Wilson Jerry & Helga Bell Scott Bischke & Katie Gibson Paul Breed Bob Brewer Jerry Brown Chris Burke Kevin Burns Jeremy Burton Clare Cain Elisabeth Chaplin Paul Corbeil Carolyn Crump Mike Dawson David Dolton John Dufour Bob & Shell Ellinwood Dianne Evans Brian Fahlstrom Allen Filson Bill & Debra Pollick Bruce Prior Miguel Quinones John Rowland Erin Saver Carlos Schomaker Kerry Shakarjian

Steven Sheppard Josh & Lisa Shusko Mal Sillars James Sippel Mark Flagler Arthur & Denise Foley Dana Foulks Sara Glasgow Paul Griffith Lawton Grinter & Felicia Hermosilla Tambi Gustafson Jim Hansman Frank & Jean Anne Haranzo James Harrold Tim Hart Jack Haskel Deb Hayes Josephine Hazelett Jesse Hill James Hlavaty Olivia Holmes Thomas Holz Nancy Huber Peter Karnowski 2013 FB CDT Hikers/Lisa Karst Matthew Kaufmann Karen Keller Copper Kettle Brewing Christine & Brad Klafehn Duane Koss Dick Kozoll Robert Kristoferitsch Dave & Sandy Slowey Chris Smith Morgan Sommerville Steve Staley Philip Storey Rebecca Sudduth & Daniel Weber Robert Sylvester George Szeremeta

Michael Tam Olli Tam Whitney LaRuffa David Lattier Kevin Linebarger Rebecca Louden - Louden Family Foundation Reese Lukei Paul Magnanti Lydia Mahan Barney & Sandy Mann Martin Alex Martinez & Family Nicolas Martinez Teresa Martinez Chris McMaster - ULA Equipment Gary Monk Janie & Randy Moore Peter Necarsulmer Jean Neely John & Lisa Nelson Jim O’Brien Pat O’Donnell Shane O’Donnell Stephen Olson Richard Ostheimer Don & Amy Owen Taylor & Nancy Owen Greg Pierce Brad Pierson Avelino Tamayo Don Thompson Kathy Trotter Daniel Weber Gary Werner & Melanie Lord Scott Williams Bernard Wolf Mike Wollmer Bill Youmans Tim Zvada

LEGACY MEMBERS

Legacy Members make a lasting impact to protect the CDT for future generations by including CDTC in their will or estate plan. Contact CDTC Development Manager Lauren Murray at lmurray@continentaldividetrail.org if you are interested in becoming a Legacy Member.

Roger & Cindy Carpenter Jean Ella

Josephine Hazelett Tom Lefferts

Barney & Sandy Mann Teresa Martinez Dick Vogel

CDT SUSTAINERS

CDT Sustainers help us protect the trail all year long by giving monthly donations.

Join them by signing up on our website for as little as $5 per month!

Adrian Harrison Alexander Asai Amy Aloe Amy Buchanan Amy McCormick Andine Gilmore Anne Simonsick Annette Sanders Aubrey Renfroe Barry Reed Ben Sweeney Benjamin Gabriel Brent Lindon Brian Deames Carol Martin Cassandra Pritchett Cayce Roach Chad Ferguson Christina Osmon Cody Miller Cody Spencer Collin Stewart Connie Mahan David Fockler David Giese David Nowak David Schlewitz DC Ward Debra Calhoun Denise Hasskamp Dennis Solo Derek Sherry DiAnna Corden

Donna Siefert Elaine Geouge Erik Schultz Erin Capron Erin Lucero Erin Woodrow Ernesto Fuentes Frances Galvin Gabriel Smith Garrett Delmas Gary Van Horn Gerald Nielsen Gerald Retzlaff Gregory Smith Harry Bicycle Company LLC Healing Hearts & Horses Heather farrell heather stabler Heidi Jones James Boeck James Boeck James Fowler James N. Wise MD PLLC James Williams Jason Harley jean ella Jessica Suhowatsky John Kuebler Jon Geilhufe Jonathan Smith Joni DuPre Jordan Williams karen loveless

Karl Schults Katherine Moore Kathleen Johnson Keith Lippwe Keith Wagner Kevin Soderman Kyle Svoboda Lauren Murray Leslie McCurry Lisa Cook Lynn Andenoro Lynne Krulich Mark Mitford Mark Swanson Martin Smith Marty Leake Mary McNeill Mary Stoecker McLean Smith Melinda Bise Merrill Glustrom Michael Lang Mrs Monsen Nanette Day Patrick A. Madison Patrick Foley Paul Gronland Paul Tennery Rachel Danczyk Rachel DeHoyos Randy Walker Raymond Brown

Renee Patrick Rhonda Ronan Richard Sayre Robert Boulis Robert Flynn Robert Mabry Robert Romanoff Robin Proffitt Ronald Parry Samuel Waterman Sara Bishop Sarah Estrella Sarah Gude Sarah Gude Sarah Wustrack Scott Piddington Steve Falconer Steve Moffitt Steven Meyer Tawnee Smith Teresa Ellis Thomas Phillips Tony Mason tracy lanktree Troy Lawson Wendel Hann William Welch

John Mclarty Dean Myerson Barbara Nash Don & Amy Owen Tom Phillips Greg Pierce Michael Schechtman Amiththan Sebarajah Kerry Shakarjian Steven & Grace Shattuck

Josh And Lisa Shusko Linda Spaulding Jena Thompson Randy Welsh Robert J. Weggel Amanda Wheelock Greg & Jan Winchester James York

ENDOWMENT CHARTER MEMBERS

Anonymous Rich Blitz Amy Camp Clancy Clark Arthur and Denise Foley Ben Gabriel Josephine Hazelett James Hlavaty Jim Hunter Rob Hutchinson

Emilie Kelly Mike Ksenyak Matthew Lindelow Andrew Linger Kathleen Lynch Paul Magnanti Barney And Sandy Mann Nicolas Martinez Teresa Martinez Amy Mccormick

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Thank you to the following sponsors who contributed to CDTC between December 2022 and April 2023.

TRAILBLAZER ($25,000+)

EXPLORER ($5,000-$24,999)

PATHFINDER ($1,500-$4,999)

SCOUT

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Photo credit: Zack Kephart

Patrol Mountain Lookout, Bob Marshall/Scapegoat Wilderness, Montana.

By Audra Labert (she/hers)

From a distance, the structure appeared as a tiny square sitting atop an outstretched mountain reef. Patrol Mountain Lookout is at the peak of Patrol Mountain in the Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex in Montana, straddling the borders of the Scapegoat and Bob Marshall Wilderness Areas. The trail to the top is approximately a seven-mile round trip, offering one of the most expansive views from the Rocky Mountain Front.

From the Straight Creek Trailhead, the route started as a pleasant meander along Straight Creek. This section of trail is a popular off-ramp for Northbound thru-hikers who are resupplying before traveling through the rest of “The Bob.” It’s also known to visitors who want extensive views without extensive mileage.

Occasional glimpses of the lookout could be seen early on. The trail occasionally bumped against

the rushing creek until the crossing, about half a mile from the trailhead. There were no reliable ways to hop across without getting wet feet. Early in the season or after significant rains, the water is fast, high, and full of debris, so trek poles were an advantage. Pro tip: Take water shoes and stash them on the other side for the return crossing.

The elevation gain was minimal to this point, and then the actual hike began. From Straight Creek, the ascent was 2,800 ft over three-and-a-quarter miles. As the trail wound up switchbacks and wove in and out of trees, a view of the Scapegoat Wilderness came into view. The scene was a mosaic of live and burned forest, revealing part of the fire footprint of the area. Much of the Scapegoat Wilderness had been affected by fire in the last 20 years. In 2006, the Cigarette Fire burned in the adjacent area, while six years later, in 2012, the

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Elbow Pass Fire made its mark. Even in the shadow of a fire lookout, fires are an ever-present concern.

The climb to the lookout wound a slow, steep path toward 7,936 feet. After a few miles of alternating back and forth, the views reappeared around cliffy turns. Honeymoon Basin emerged like a lavish, green amphitheater rimmed by rocky crags. The basin offered wind protection, a good lunch or rest spot, and, for some, a final destination. Wolverines have occasionally been spotted on the high slopes. It was so serene and beautiful that one might rethink the remaining climb to spend the afternoon with the birds and alpine flowers instead.

The last push to the lookout from Honeymoon Basin did not disappoint. From the saddle, the peaks of the Bob Marshall Wilderness emerged like waves in a sea and spread to the north, west, and south from the Continental Divide. Once at the top, if it’s summer, there’s a good chance of chatting with the resident fire lookout, Samara Chapman Duffey.

Duffey’s border collie, Mae, taking a nap in the lookout.

Duffey, also known simply as Sam, has been a fixture at the Patrol Mountain Lookout since her first summer in 1997, and she took only one year off to stand post at the nearby Prairie Reef Lookout. Sam talked through each named peak in view and gave some history of the lookout and fires. She noted that Wilderness fires in the area are most often caused by lightning strikes versus the human-caused ignitions that tend to occur near campgrounds and roads.

“Of course, I have also come across my fair share of abandoned campfires while out hiking,” Sam added.

Patrol Mountain Lookout was originally built in the 1920s as a cupola-style structure but was rebuilt to the existing flat-cab style in 1962. The only period the lookout was left unoccupied was during the late 1970s to mid-1980s. Then, in 1988, while legendary wildfires raged in Yellowstone National Park, the Canyon Creek, and the Gates Park Fires blazed in The Bob. Since these catastrophic burns, Patrol Lookout has been staffed every season by the U.S. Forest Service.

The lookout was a quaint, one-room structure composed mainly of windows to maximize the view. Around the edges of the outside were thick cables attached to steel anchors that keep the little building from being blown off the mountain. Sam pointed out the lightning rod installed to make the structure more resilient to a strike, which happened a few times over the years.

When there’s a storm, Chapman gets a front-row seat.

Although wildland fire is a significant concern throughout the West, it’s almost surprising that the profession of Fire Lookout has stood the test of time. Yet, despite all the modern technology available, having eyes on the ground is still the most effective way to spot wilderness fires. Somewhere out there, people still live in towers for part of the year to guard against ravaging blazes.

On average, Patrol Mountain Lookout sees around 70-90 visitors per season—and that number has grown in the past few years.

Increasing forest visitors combined with the prevalence of human-caused fires may carry risks. In addition to extreme wildfires being propelled by a changing climate, humancaused ignition now accounts for nearly 85% of all wildland fires across the Nation*. As the effects of climate change continue to unfold, it’s clear that in addition to early detection, prevention of human-caused fire remains critical to mitigating catastrophic wildfires. * Wildfire Causes and Evaluations (U.S. National Park Service) National Parks Service, nps.gov/articles/ wildfire-causes-and-evaluation.htm. April 5, 2023

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INTERIOR OF PATROL LOOKOUT AND DUFFEY’S DOG, MAE, TAKING A REST.

@farmtofeet www.farmtofeet.com

CONTINENTAL DIVIDE TRAIL COALITION 710 10TH STREET, SUITE 200, GOLDEN, CO 80401 (303) 996-2759

Photo by: Jack “Quadzilla” Jones @quadzillahikes

INFO@CONTINENTALDIVIDETRAIL.ORG WWW.CONTINENTALDIVIDETRAIL.ORG

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