HEAVENS PEAK

I scoured hiker blogs for information about lightweight backpacking and tried several saddle pads before combining two of them to make my own custom version. I had a crash course (almost literally) in horse packing, which I had only read about in a manual called “When Mules Wear Diamonds” before beginning my first multi-overnight section of the PCT with two horses. It wasn’t until a thousand miles later that I met a forest service packer who showed me how to tie an Arizona box hitch for my panniers, which I have used ever since. It was a steep learning curve, but one with rich rewards in terms of the natural beauty of the wilderness and the deep bond I nurtured with my equine teammates.

After a second successful completion of the PCT in 2016 where I was able to put all my newly honed knowledge to the test, I was ready to branch out into different territory. My next challenge became a thru-ride of the Arizona Trail in 2017, which was complicated by the desert terrain, particularly in the south. I figured out how to cache water and weed-free hay at dirt road crossings to provide for my horses’ needs (and how to keep the caches safe from free-range cattle). Probably the highlight of that journey was riding through the Grand Canyon with its stunning-and challenging--geography. Also in 2017, I completed the Colorado Trail, which then sparked my desire to attempt to ride the Continental Divide Trail the next year.

Each state along the route of the CDT posed its own unique problems to overcome, but I drew on previous experiences to counter them. New Mexico presented the same issues as Arizona in terms of water and feed, as well as lots of fences without stock gates where the trail traversed cattle ranches and rangeland. Even the dirt roads were often blocked by cattle guards that are equally effective against horses, and I spent lots of time and extra miles finding detours.

I also waited for the snow to melt in the northern portion of the state where I would be crossing into Colorado.

The issue with snow continued throughout Colorado, although I benefited from 2018 being a relatively low-snow year. Using satellite imaging and some creative selection of trail sections based on snowmelt rates, I was able to finish the state without having to flip-flop to Wyoming first. My previous experience on the CT definitely came in handy, especially through the San Juans, which remains one of my favorite areas for its dramatic, sweeping vistas.

Wyoming has one of the most diverse topographies along the CDT, with the Great Basin in the south, the rugged Wind River Range in the middle, and Yellowstone National Park in the north. The rolling plains of the Basin made for easy riding, and it was exciting to encounter roaming bands of mustangs, although I had to fend them off from my horses at times.

Rising out of the Basin into the Winds, we exchanged the harsh desert environment for a beautiful alpine landscape of lush meadows and pristine lakes.

Stock users utilize different techniques for maintaining a light-on-the-land approach to backcountry travel. Here are some things you may see when encountering a stock group camp:

Electric fence. This is a great way to allow the animals to be themselves and eat while out on the trail. An electric fence may be set up near the trail, so be careful.

Impact on camping areas.

Some campsites will wear the mark of stock impact through loss of vegetation near trees. Stock users are encouraged to repeatedly use these same areas to avoid impacting new areas. Some areas will even have permanent structures installed for stock users. Avoid using stock sites when traveling on foot to keep them open for those who need them.

Loose animals. It is common practice for some stock users to allow a few ‘herdbound’ animals to range while the others are contained.

The key element is for users to approach each other with respect and consideration of the many ways to enjoy the outdoors. There is a long tradition of stock use in wild places, and animals continue to be a critical management component of Wilderness and non-motorized lands.

Gillian Larson became the youngest person to solo thru-ride the Pacific Crest Trail, covering the 2650 miles from Mexico to Canada in 2014, then again in 2016. She rode the Arizona Trail and the Colorado Trail in 2017, then completed another Mexicoto-Canada route on the Continental Divide Trail in 2018—the first person to thru-ride the PCT and the CDT with the same two horses.

Most recently, Gillian tackled a third thru-ride of the PCT in 2022, this time with a rotating team of 4 horses and a mule, for a total of more than 13,500 backcountry miles.

She focuses on educating others about the many challenges of wilderness equestrian travel while continuing to push the boundaries of long-distance riding and helping to modernize traditional packing techniques. Find her at gillianlarson.net.

Camping with horses in Yellowstone presented some technical difficulties in terms of permitted equestrian sites, but it is one of the most accommodating national parks for horses, as there are separate reserved facilities for riders which prevented competing for space with hikers.

The threat of wildfires and the impact of smoke is becoming an increasingly common hazard throughout the west, and I ended up altering my route into Montana because of fires that created detours to the CDT through Idaho.

Thankfully I avoided the worst of the smoke, and soon the approach of winter put an end to concerns about wildfires.

Glacier National Park provided breathtaking mountain views, autumn colors, and even a light dusting of snow as I neared the Canadian border in mid-September. I was so proud of my horses when we reached the end of our ride and grateful for our partnership.

During those first four years, I covered over 10,000 miles with the same two horses, a mother-and-son pair of Quarter horses. Since then, I have expanded my herd to include a mule and several new horses, and together we have accumulated thousands of additional backcountry miles. I have also been able to begin sharing what I have learned about traveling through the wilderness on horseback through group workshops and individual mentoring of other long-distance riders. But always the part that means the most is the bond I get to create with my equine teammates as we head off into another adventure.

Don’t hide. People sometimes get the temptation to try to hide from the stock to avoid scaring them. Instead, stay in plain view.

Show them you’re human. When people are wearing big backpacks, hats, and other gear, animals may not immediately recognize them as humans. Talk to them in a calm, normal voice as they approach and pass by to prove that you’re not a threat.

Never try to touch them unless invited to do so. Riders will rarely or never encourage someone on the ground to approach their mount or pack animals while they’re ‘working’.

Stay downhill. If you’re leaving the trail to allow stock to pass, which is etiquette, walk to the downhill side of the trail if on a slope. As a prey species, they will not like an unfamiliar creature perched above them.

Step well off the trail, especially if you have a dog. Pack animals will be carrying wide loads and need extra room in addition to a comfortable distance from strangers. When possible, allow 10 ft of space or more.

Camp away from the trail. Nothing freaks out stock animals more than passing by a rustling tent next to the trail or having a head pop out suddenly as they’re passing. Be courteous to all users and leave plenty of space between your campsite and the trail.