C Men's Edition by C Magazine

Spring/Summer 2020

Cover

Lenny Kravitz

LOVE RULES A S TY

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MENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S EDITION GROWING UP WITH JEFF BRIDGES, SAMUEL L. JACKSON AND BRUCE LEE

& CU

Hermes

Prada

Cartier

Saint Laurent

66.

38.

58. MEN’S EDITION

Spring/Summer 2020

28.

STATEMENTS Nancy Silverton pens a lifeline for protein-minded isolationists................................................................................................................ 20 Rarefied air: Byredo’s Ben Gorham follows his nose to L.A............................................................................................................................. 22 Moroccan-inspired loungewear fit for the house and beyond....................................................................................................................... 24 Streetwise: Aston Martin joins the party with its first-ever SUV..................................................................................................................... 26

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From Jeff Bridges to Bruce Lee, the firsthand stories of having a famous father.............................................................................. 28 Surf filmmaker Taylor Steele bottles up his passion for storytelling.......................................................................................................... 32

FEATURES The inimitable Lenny Kravitz spreads a message of hope and humanity in an unsettling time....................................... 38 Curb appeal: The valet-inspired pastels and prints to add to your spring lineup........................................................................... 50

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How California’s wine country has become a mecca of modern design............................................................................................... 58 Rhude boy: Rhuigi Villaseñor’s unconventional path to fashion fame.................................................................................................... 66

73. DISCOVERIES Lensman Kurt Iswarienko’s wanderlust-inducing new tome focuses on the quiet moments........................ 73 Top Gun’s Glen Powell shares his Golden State musts................................................................................................................... 78

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EXTERIOR: MARION BRENNER. LENNY KRAVITZ: NADINE KOUPAEI. MALE FASHION MODEL AND SUNGLASSES: MARK GRIFFIN CHAMPION. FAMILY PORTRAIT: SUSAN BRIDGES. PROPELLER: KURT ISWARIENKO. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.77.

50.

Gucci

JENNIFER SMITH

Founder, Editorial Director & CEO JENNY MURRAY

Editor & President Chief Content Officer ANDREW BARKER

Chief Creative Officer JAMES TIMMINS

Executive Creative & Fashion Director

ALISON EDMOND

Senior Editors

Digital Content + Copy Editor

Art Director

MELISSA GOLDSTEIN

MARIE LOOK

LISA LEWIS

KELSEY McKINNON

Associate Fashion + Market Editor

Digital Strategy + Social Media Director

Photo Editor

MARGRIT JACOBSEN

JAKE HEDDAEUS

LAUREN SCHUMACHER

Beauty Director KELLY ATTERTON

Masthead

Deputy Managing Editor ANUSH J. BENLIYAN Contributing Editors Elizabeth Khuri Chandler, Kendall Conrad, Danielle DiMeglio, Rebecca Russell, Diane Dorrans Saeks, Andrea Stanford, Stephanie Steinman Contributing Writers Catherine Bigelow, Christina Binkley, Caroline Cagney, Kerstin Czarra, Peter Davis, Helena de Bertodano, Christine Lennon, Martha McCully, Jessica Ritz, Elizabeth Varnell, S. Irene Virbila Contributing Photographers Guy Aroch, David Cameron, Mark Griffin Champion, Victor Demarchelier, Amanda Demme, Michelangelo Di Battista, Lisa Eisner, Douglas Friedman, Sam Frost, Adrian Gaut, Beau Grealy, Zoey Grossman, Kerry Hallihan, Pamela Hanson, Rainer Hosch, Kurt Iswarienko, Nadine Koupaei, Mona Kuhn, Kurt Markus, Blair Getz Mezibov, Ben Morris, Bella Newman, Carter Smith, Alistair Taylor-Young, Jan Welters

RENEE MARCELLO

Publisher

Executive Director Southern California

Contributing Special Projects Director

Information Technology Director

CRISTA VAGHI

CAMERON BIRD

SANDY HUBBARD

Executive Director Northern California

Client Services + Production Director

Finance Associate

AUTUMN Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;KEEFE

AMY LIPSON

TROY FELKER

Sales Development Manager

Finance Assistant

ANNE MARIE PROVENZA

LEE SULTAN

ANDY NELSON

Chief Financial Officer & Chief Operating Officer C PUBLISHING 1543 SEVENTH STREET, SECOND FLOOR, SANTA MONICA, CA 90401 T: 310-393-3800 SUBSCRIBE@MAGAZINEC.COM MAGAZINEC.COM SHOPSTUDIO-C.COM

Bottega Veneta

F O U N D E R’S

L E T T E R

EDITORS’ PICKS This month’s wish list

NICK FOUQUET

reating a magazine in the middle of a global pandemic presents a challenge: How to navigate the very serious matters at hand when C Magazine’s mission has always been to focus on The Golden State’s brighter side? How to create an issue without the face-to-face meetings that decide everything from the cover shot to the order of the stories? Well, we self-quarantined, worked from home, Zoomed like the best of them and got on with it. These past weeks of solitude have taught me that now is the best time to celebrate the amazing things life in California brings — because you never know when they might (temporarily) be taken away. Never again will I take any of it for granted. That might be the lesson for us all … to appreciate every moment, big or small. I can’t think of a man who has loomed larger over culture and style the past three decades than our cover subject, Lenny Kravitz. Originally scheduled to shoot with C in California — a shoot which was, of course, canceled once the virus hit stateside — Lenny was a man of his word: The interview was done remotely, and his dear friend Nadine Koupaei shared unpublished photos with C exclusively. What a class act, through and through. Speaking of top-of-the-class gentlemen, Rhude designer Rhuigi Villaseñor is making quite a name for himself globally. What started as a Los Angeles streetwear company now counts LeBron James and Justin Bieber among its many fans; and with shows in Paris, the world is taking notice. Which brings me back to the idea of global consciousness and the knowledge that we are all truly connected. By celebrating the world of California in every issue (and in this one we have a stunning portfolio on our wine country) we are really sharing our collective “state of mind” with all. And proving that nothing gets in our way.

Willow fedora, $1,275, shopstudio-c.com.

BOTTEGA VENETA Crossbody bag, $1,890, bottegaveneta.com.

Founders RAEN Benson sunglasses, $185, shopstudio-c.com.

Spring/Summer 2020

ON THE COVER

Lenny Kravitz

& CU

Founder, Editorial Director and CEO

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JENNIFER SMITH

HAT AND SUNGLASSES: MARK GRIFFIN CHAMPION.

LOVE RULES

MEN’S EDITION GROWING UP WITH JEFF BRIDGES, SAMUEL L. JACKSON AND BRUCE LEE

LENNY KRAVITZ. Photography by NADINE KOUPAEI. Lenny wears his own vintage sunglasses.

@ccaliforniastyle

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Salvatore Ferragamo

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P E O P L E

CHRIS WALLACE LISA M. LEWIS C’s new art director, Lisa M. Lewis, has worked as principal of her own design collective and on staff at Los Angeles magazine, and is an award-winning creative with a passion for visual storytelling. Her editorial and commercial career has spanned travel, news, culture, wellness and fashion. MY C SPOTS • My favorite Sunday is breakfast at Cafe 27 in Topanga, a hike to eagle rock in Topanga State Park and a shopping stop at Moona Star • Kismet Falafel at Grand Central Market for rosewater lemonade or cardamom coffee • The Bradbury building in Downtown L.A. is an architectural wonderland

The U.S. editor of Mr Porter, Chris Wallace profiled fashion designer Rhuigi Villaseñor of Rhude for “Rhude Awakening,” p.66. He was previously executive editor at Interview, having gotten into writing for magazines to “support novel and filmmaking habits.” Raised in Park La Brea in L.A., he is based in New York. MY C SPOTS • Mitsuwa Marketplace in Mar Vista is a funky respite from corporate healthfood chains • My friend Christian Kastner’s store Grain in Atwater Village is a great place to find new and vintage furniture and ceramics • The Huntington gardens in San Marino are heaven — like, 10 different geographical ecosystems of heaven

Contributors

RACHEL MARLOWE Dividing her time between L.A. and London, Rachel Marlowe is a writer who has contributed to W, Vogue and Allure. The co-author of two books — Vogue Beauty and One Gun Ranch Malibu — she profiled Byredo founder Ben Gorham for this issue in “California on My Mind,” p.22. MY C SPOTS • The boat house cabins at Manka’s Inverness Lodge open right onto Tomales Bay, which glows with bioluminescence at night • A Shirodhara treatment with Ayurvedic practitioner Kari Jansen in Laurel Canyon • Angel City Books & Records in Santa Monica for secondhand books

A regular contributor to The Sunday Times, The Guardian and The Telegraph, Stephanie Rafanelli has interviewed such stars as Al Pacino, Ryan Gosling, Björk, Jared Leto, Cate Blanchett and this month’s cover star, Lenny Kravitz (p.38). Based between L.A. and London, she formerly held posts as features director of British Harper’s Bazaar and deputy editor of Condé Nast Traveler, and has worked on documentaries for BBC and Channel 4. MY C SPOTS • The Santa Monica flea market at Santa Monica Airport to ferret for ’70s dresses and midcentury furniture before brunch • La Cabaña in Venice because it mixes the best margaritas and was Charles and Ray Eames’ favorite haunt • Deus Ex Machina, a Venice motorcyle shop and cafe, for Harleys, smoothies, beards and badass tunes

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LISA LEWIS: JENS LUCKING.

STEPHANIE RAFANELLI

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Statements Opener

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK GRIFFIN CHAMPION. STYLING BY MARGRIT JACOBSEN. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.77.

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CONTRIBUTORS KELLY ATTERTON ANUSH J. BENLIYAN LAURA BURSTEIN MARGRIT JACOBSEN RACHEL MARLOWE KELSEY McKINNON

STYLE

CULTURE

DESIGN

GROOMING

DINING

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1. The new CHI SPACCA cookbook includes a recipe for carne cruda with hanger steak and white button mushrooms.

RAISING THE

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STEAKS

If you’ve ever salivated over the sizzling 3-pound Tuscan-style porterhouse steak on the open-kitchen grill at L.A.’s Chi Spacca — legendary chef Nancy Silverton’s love letter to butchery — or dreamed of the restaurant’s cheesy, paper-thin focaccia di Recco, this one’s for you. In her latest tome, Chi Spacca: A New Approach to American Cooking (Alfred A. Knopf, $35), out April 28, Silverton reveals the inspirations behind the meat-focused menu and shares the recipes for dozens of dishes, including the two aforementioned house specialties, and other fan favorites, such as porcini-rubbed short ribs, and charred sugar snap peas. Co-written with food writer Carolynn Carreño and executive chef Ryan DeNicola, the book also includes crash courses on building the perfect antipasto platter, buying meats and, most importantly, grilling. A.J.B.

FUTURE CLASSICS Dress watches to invest in

3. 4. 1. AMIRI Tie Dye jacket, $1,690. 2. PRADA jacket, $2,130. 3. LOUIS VUITTON Damier Flower jacket, $19,000. 4. ETRO jacket, $1,870.

The FABLETICS MEN 24-7 T-shirt, from $35, Franchise shorts, from $45, and Courtside hoodie, from $60.

SECOND GEAR Soon after Kate Hudson launched Fabletics with TechStyle Fashion Group’s Adam Goldenberg and Don Ressler in 2013, the activewear brand rocketed in popularity, garnering attention for its subscription program and stylish sportswear, and shipping a million orders in just over a year. Now, the Los Angelesbased company is releasing Fabletics Men, a new label created in collaboration with actor-comedian Kevin Hart that offers highperformance basics — from breathable tees that already have the perfect brokenin feel to lightweight, quick-dry shorts to preand postworkout athleisure joggers, hoodies and crewneck sweaters — all featuring the latest in garment engineering (like anti-odor, -chafe and -static technologies). VIP members have access to exclusive designs, adjusted pricing and fresh styles delivered to your door monthly. From $50/ month for memberships. fabletics.com. A.J.B.

From far left: PANERAI Luminor Due, $19,900. CARTIER Santos-Dumont, price upon request. LOUIS VUITTON Escale Spin Time Meteorite, $49,500. IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN Portofino, $19,900.

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CHI SPACCA: ED ANDERSON. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.77.

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S T A T

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S P O T L I G H T

“I do things differently here and take more time,” says BYREDO founder BEN GORHAM of the effect California has on him.

E M E N T S

or Ben Gorham, founder of cult fragrance house Byredo, the fact that California has woven its way into his Swedish brand’s story seems to have taken him rather by surprise. This, despite the fact that his bestselling scent, Mojave Ghost, pays homage to the indigenous flower of Southern California’s desert; his patchouli-based Peyote Poem was created to conjure the state’s psychedelic ’60s scene; and Velvet Haze is his ode to big wall climbing pioneers of Yosemite. It begs the question: Do people ever think Byredo is a Californian brand? “Certainly some people look at the way I dress and think I’m from L.A.,” says Gorham over breakfast at the Hotel Bel-Air in February, outfitted in a tie-dye shirt, ripped jeans and Off-White Nikes (designed by friend and collaborator Virgil Abloh) topped off with a fringed jacket from Japanese midcentury Americana-inspired brand Kapital. Fashion also played a role in choosing the location of Byredo’s first Los Angeles outpost — the brand’s largest boutique to date, bigger than the existing stores in London, Miami, New York City, Paris, Seoul and Stockholm. The L.A. edition opened on Melrose Avenue in early spring, next to fellow Swedish brand Acne Studios, early this spring but closed in March as the coronavirus hit California in earnest. “One of the first stores I visited when I started coming here 15 years ago was Maxfield,” he explains. “That they’ve been there for almost 30 years made it feel very iconic. … That little stretch feels very authentic. It’s not too commercial and doesn’t have too much traffic. It’s off the beaten path but people still walk it, and that combination was important.” The interiors, a collaboration with Swedish architecture firm Halleroed, mix Californian and Scandinavian elements to striking effect. “A thing I considered early in the process was how to incorporate the California light,” he says of the space. “The light here is very unique, so that informed textures and color palettes. I built a large skylight in the middle of the store as a sort of sun worship.” Gorham designed the store’s furniture, including the terrazzo tables, anodized aluminum display cases, wood shelving and colorful striped sofas. “I’ve always been quite interested in woodwork. A friend came up from New Mexico to create some custom pieces in an Oregon pine,” he says. “There are other fixtures crafted out of American alder and walnut, so some of the materials have referenced this place while the contrast of the industrial aluminum furniture speaks to these old and new worlds I’m trying to combine.” Born to an Indian mother and a Canadian father, Gorham grew up in Stockholm, Toronto and New York, and first came to California as a child visiting family in La Jolla. “Living in Sweden, California just seemed amazing to me, and they represented the archetype of an American family,” he recalls. “My cousins played football and baseball. My uncle was in the U.S. Navy, and my aunt was a housewife; they both surfed and had two dogs and a pool. It was what I’d seen in movies.” For a boy living in the Northern Hemisphere, being outdoors all day was also a revelation.

CALIFORNIA ON MY MIND How The Golden State played its part in the cult brand Byredo

Words by RACHEL MARLOWE 22

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MORGAN NORMAN

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“Even the air smelled different” he says. “Those early childhood memories really stay with you.” These days, the 42-year-old lives between Stockholm and its archipelago, with his wife, Natasha, and daughters, Anouk and Ines. Memories are at the core of Byredo, which was conceived after a trip back to his mother’s birthplace in India in 2005. “I had an amazing fragrance experience that brought back all kinds of memory,” he says of the career-altering journey that sparked the desire to capture and bottle those experiences. Gorham sought out the services of respected French perfumers Olivia Giacobetti and Jérôme Epinette to help realize his vision, launching the company — a play on the words “by redolence” — in 2006. Since then, Byredo has expanded beyond candles and fragrance into eyewear, fine jewelry, sneakers, denim and T-shirts (in collaboration with Frame and Off-White), made-to-order suits and leather goods. “Byredo was always more than just a smell for me,” he says of the brand’s evolution. “I paced myself.” To that end, Gorham spent several years learning how to tan leathers and construct bags. “My partners have been great advocates of my vision of Byredo as something that would evolve and change as I and the people around me did,” he says. “We agreed that we could explore anything we found creatively interesting. Ultimately everything is a story: every perfume, sneaker or bag.” When it comes to Gorham’s personal style, that story has been an evolution too, beginning with his first trip to Men’s Fashion Week in Paris. “That’s when I realized that fashion could be used to express who I was,” he told Esquire in 2017 of his penchant for streetwear, tailored suits paired with slippers, and, of course, the classic “Canadian tuxedo” denim combo. More recently, he has become enamored of L.A’.s burgeoning fashion scene. “I don’t know if it’s the sense of isolation or the lifestyle, but there’s something very tactile to these brands which you don’t see in Paris or New York,” he says of fellow Melrose Avenue shop owner John Elliott’s signature knits; Rhuigi Villaseñor’s luxury streetwear line Rhude (see p.66); Johnson Hartig’s kitschmeets-punk line Libertine; Cherry and Gallery Dept.’s screen-printed unisex tees and hoodies; and Chrome Hearts luxe rock ‘n’ roll jewelry. The Elder Statesman has also become a staple in his closet. “It feels local in spirit,

“Some people look at the way I dress and think I’m from L.A.”

Statements BEN GORHAM

not like it’s created to dominate the world, and there’s an authenticity that comes from that.” As Gorham has spent more time in L.A., he says he is building a new relationship with California. “I go to people’s houses...I surf in Point Dume, I like to hike and everybody has their special spot they take me to,” he says. “It’s created another idea of California for me. I used to feel like it was a very remote place, but now I can almost imagine living here. There are few places that are progressive yet laidback, creative yet commercial, tacky yet tasteful,” he says. “The contrast exists here more than most places and I find something interesting in that.” 2

Above: The new BYREDO outpost on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles.

MY EAU MY Our Byredo essentials edit

STORE EXTERIOR: ERIK UNDEHN

From far left: Peyote Poem candle, $85. Velvet Haze fragrance, $265/100 mL. Mojave Ghost body lotion, $65. Umbrella bag, $1,500. Tulipmania hand wash, $65.

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ROCK THE KASBAH

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Pajama stripes and spice shades conjure Morocco’s inimitable style

MODEL: GRANT SNYDER AT PHOTOGENICS. MAKEUP AND HAIR: DEE DALY AT OPUS BEAUTY USING CHANEL LES BEIGES AND ORIBE. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.77.

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Clockwise from top left: SALVATORE FERRAGAMO top, $1,150, knit top, price upon request, and pants, $1,090, SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO necklaces, from $395 (seen throughout), and CHAN LUU necklaces, from $175, bracelet, $175, and ring, $105 (seen throughout). ETRO sweater, $2,060, top, $630, pants, $810, and sandals, $470, and JACQUES MARIE MAGE sunglasses, $650. SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO robe, $3,590, pants, $4,890, scarf, $395, and sandals, $645, JACQUES MARIE MAGE sunglasses, $1,075, and FENDI bag, $5,300. GUCCI jacket, $3,400, pants, $1,350, and sandals, $980, ETRO top, $690, OLIVER PEOPLES sunglasses, $393, CHAN LUU scarf, $195, and ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA XXX bag, price upon request. JIL SANDER striped top, $661, pants, $843, and sandals, $421, HERMÈS top, $680, and JIMMY CHOO bag, $895. VALENTINO top, $6,350, VERSACE pants, $1,450, JACQUES MARIE MAGE sunglasses, $850, and ETRO sandals, $470. Model’s earring, his own.

Photography by MARK GRIFFIN CHAMPION Styling by ALISON EDMOND 24

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THE ULTIMATE MEN’S COLLECTION

South Coast Plaza

A. Lange & Söhne Alexander McQueen Balenciaga Berluti Bottega Veneta Brunello Cucinelli Burberry Canali Cartier Dior Men Dolce&Gabbana Ermenegildo Zegna Fendi Giorgio Armani Givenchy Golden Goose Gucci Harry Winston Hermès IWC Jaeger-LeCoultre John Varvatos Lanvin Loro Piana Louis Vuitton Moncler Panerai Prada Ralph Lauren Rolex Saint Laurent Salvatore Ferragamo The Webster Tod’s Vacheron Constantin partial listing

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S P L A S H

The KELSEN Collection bundle, $68.

A T E M E

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CLEAN SLATE From top: The ASTON MARTON DBX, from $189,900. The model’s adaptive triple volume air suspension lets it tackle any terrain. The optional pet accessory package includes a dog partition and a portable washer.

SUPERSIZE YOUR RIDE Aston Martin joins other exotics, such as Lamborghini and Bentley, in rolling out its first-ever SUV. While the beauty of some ultraluxe haulers is debatable, the fiveseat DBX maintains the handsome proportions and elegant lines that have heretofore defined the iconic sports cars of the British brand. Under the hood is a new version of the same 4.0-liter, twin-turbocharged V8 that powers the DB11 and Vantage, churning out 542 hp and 516 lb.-ft. of torque, but the DBX isn’t just another sports car made tall. Its new, dedicated platform took years to develop, resulting in a stiff chassis and roomy interior. An all-wheel-drive system with electronic rear limited slip differential, as well as adaptive air suspension, ensures aptitude across a variety of terrain. The first 500 DBX owners will get the “1913” package, which includes a limited-edition build book and a cocktail party with Aston Martin executives. astonmartin.com. L.B.

Statements

Created by pro skaters Curren Caples and Sean Malto, and pro surfers Jack Freestone and Mikey February, new clean hair brand Kelsen launched with a mission to “go easy on the planet” without sacrificing quality. Loaded with ingredients like sea rock fennel, organic kelp and sea holly, and formulated without synthetics or environmentally destructive microplastics, the line comprises a two-in-one shampoo and body wash; a conditioner; and a pomade. Kelsen’s eco-friendly packaging is composed of recyclable bio-plastic tubes made from sugarcane and compostable caps, and the brand donates 1 percent of its sales revenue to the organization 1% For the Planet. Caples says, “[It] feels good, knowing I’m not washing micro plastics down the drain every time I shower.” Available at shopstudio-c.com; kelsenproducts.com. K.A.

WHITE OUT Fresh sneakers to put a spring in your step

3. 2.

4. 1. DOLCE & GABBANA DayMaster sneakers, $525. 2. PIERRE HARDY Street Life QX02 sneakers, $645. 3. MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION Nolan sneakers, $198. 4. BALENCIAGA Tyrex sneakers, $995.

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SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.77.

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T A T E M E N T S

Statements DAD TALES Three offspring of Hollywood royalty share

MY FATHER THE DUDE By Isabelle Bridges Boesch DAUGHTER OF OSCAR WINNER JEFF BRIDGES, THE STAR OF CRAZY HEART AND THE BIG LEBOWSKI.

JEFF BRIDGES with his three daughters, Isabelle, Haley and Jessica.

y dad came from a family of actors. His father, Lloyd, was an actor. His mother, Dorothy, was an actor. His brother Beau is an actor, too. He knows firsthand how weird and challenging it can be to have an actor as a parent,

which means he is very good at being a famous actor father. When I was growing up, my dad was really hitting his stride. He made many of his greatest films, from The Fabulous Baker Boys to The Fisher King to Fearless, before I was 10 years old. He was often away shooting for weeks at a time, leaving my mother to look after me and my two sisters. She likes to say she takes care of the empire â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and she does. But when my dad was at home, it was like having the greatest, most imaginative friend in the world. What

Excerpted from To Me, He Was Just Dad by Joshua David Stein 28

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SUSAN BRIDGES

intimate memories of their famous fathers

makes him such a wonderful actor is the same thing that makes him a wonderful playmate: he’s a great pretender. He relished opening up his rich inner life to share with me and my sisters, and he was always happy to be part of ours, too. My sisters and I loved to dress him up, put flowers in his hair — he’s always had a nice head of hair — and decorate his face with makeup. When Dad was around, we’d draw or paint or just play pretend for hours. He has such a playful spirit. The only time he ever brought his work home with him was the day he returned from shooting Blown Away still in makeup, his face appearing all bloodied and bruised. I think he wanted to scare us, but we just loved peeling off the stretchy plastic fake blood from his face. It was really satisfying. But, of course, he couldn’t always be at home. When he was away, Dad made sure we stayed connected. He’d call every night. He’d say something like, “Isabelle, when you’re asleep tonight, you’ll see a building. Go through the front door and climb up to the attic. What do you see?” “I see the branch of an oak tree by the window,” I’d reply. Then he’d ask, “Do you see the tree house nestled in the crook of the branch?” I’d laugh and say I did. “Let’s meet there tonight,” he’d say. “What are we going to do?” “We’ll jump on our horses and ride to the mountains.” “Sounds like a plan,” he’d say. In the morning, he’d call again, and we’d go over the adventures we’d had in our dreams the night before. I always knew that my father was loving and sweet and playful, but it’s still funny to me that he’s become so closely identified with the Dude. By the time The Big Lebowski came out, I was in high school, and, just like a typical teenager, I had zero interest in my father’s work. (I still haven’t seen some of his films from that period.) What I remember most is that around that time, we were on vacation in Hawaii, and my dad was wearing those hideous Sun Jellies from the movie. They’re one of the most well-known parts of his costume, but they were actually my dad’s own shoes. Anyway, my sister and I were so embarrassed by those godawful jellies, we threw them into the ocean. Today, they’d probably be worth a lot of money. Another funny thing about people conflating Dad with the Dude is that he’s not really a laid-back guy. He gets anxious. He experiences stress. Before he goes onstage, he always says he doesn’t want to do it, and afterward, he is critical of himself. Though he describes himself as “Buddhish,” and certainly those are themes reflected in the Dude, he doesn’t project Zen calm. He is, however, extremely present. Even more so now that he’s older and a grandfather. I have two kids of my own, and he is very focused on being in their lives. We

When dad was at home, it was like having the greatest, most imaginative friend in the world ISABELLE BRIDGES BOESCH

live in Oakland, but he and my mom visit often. And when he’s not able to be with his grandkids, he calls to plan dream meetings with them, too. Isabelle Bridges Boesch is a mother’s empowerment coach and author. Her most recent book, Daddy Daughter Day, is written with her father.

MY FATHER THE BAD MOTHERF*CKER By Zoe Jackson

Statements

DAUGHTER OF SAMUEL L. JACKSON, THE ALL-TIME HIGHEST-GROSSING BOX-OFFICE STAR OF PULP FICTION.

y father is a big nerd, in the best way possible. He is completely different from his cool-guy persona. He’s got a wormhole personality in that he burrows into whatever strange thing he’s interested in and gets really into it. After we moved to Los Angeles when I was 10, we would go to Golden Apple Comics on Melrose every week religiously. They even kept a pull box for my dad. (A pull box is something that only comic book nerds have — the store pulls the new comics on a customer’s list and keeps them behind the counter.) I used to be into all things Archie, but Dad’s pull box was full of weird and really violent comics that I wasn’t allowed to read. Dad and I didn’t start exchanging comic books until I got to college. I forced him to read The Sandman (the Neil Gaiman reboot). He forced me to read the neo-noir series 100 Bullets, the western Scalped, and WildStorm’s The Boys. When I was in college, whenever I went to the comic book store alone, I was sad. I wanted my dad to be there. Before we moved to L.A., I spent a lot of time with my father. Both my parents are actors — back then working primarily in theater — and at that time, my mom was the busier, better known of the two. My dad took me to school every single day: We would get on the subway in Harlem, ride it downtown to a crosstown bus, and then transfer to another bus until we got to the Upper West

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Side. We would also go to the Bronx Zoo together. My dad loves animals: reptiles, mammals, fish. He especially loves snakes. He was full of animal facts — he actually studied marine biology in college. Though I was largely shielded from it at the time, my dad was struggling with addiction during much of my childhood. When I was 8, he entered rehab. He was gone for 60 days, which was a confusing time for me. I had no idea anything was wrong. Now, when I look back on that time, I don’t know to what to attribute some of my memories. I remember going to a bar on the Upper West Side with my dad. He’d give me a quarter and I’d go play “Tequila” by The Champs in the jukebox on repeat. (I was really into Pee-wee’s Playhouse.) But I never saw him drunk that I know of. I just thought he was a dude who slept a lot. We moved to Los Angeles for my mom. She got a role in the short-lived Chuck Lorre series Frannie’s Turn. But soon my dad’s career really took off, and my mom stopped working as much to take care of me. It’s funny that my father is the better-known actor, because my mom was

A T E M E N T S

After Pulp Fiction, my dad became cool. Or, he thought he did. He’s still just a big nerd to me ZOE JACKSON

the one who pushed him to act in the first place. They met in a professor’s office at Morehouse. (My dad went to Morehouse; my mom went to Spelman. The teacher taught at both colleges.) Dad was looking for extra credit, and Mom was doing some makeup work. She said, “You need to be in my play. Do you act?” Dad said, “Actually, I don’t,” but my mom replied, “Well, you do now.” And that’s how it went, and how it has gone ever since. My mom turns the key and sends Dad out into the world. He comes back and seeks her opinion, and she’s happy to advise. They’ve been married for close to 50 years now. She still gives him notes on his performances. They can’t live without each other. They each send me articles about the other. I do think it was very hard for my mom to give up her career to raise me for as long as she did, though. She’s happy for my dad, of course, but it’s complicated. There’s a sadness there. I was 12 years old when Pulp Fiction came out. After that, my dad became cool. Or, he thought he did. And though much of the world agrees, he’s still just a big nerd to me. He goes through phases. Now it’s watching Korean martial arts movies and Thai B movies. He reads four or five books about random topics at once. And now he DMs me all the time on Instagram and recommends obscure trap music and stuff. Once, he gave me a sweatshirt he got from working on Django Unchained. He said, “I signed it for you!” I was like, “Dad, thanks. Now I can’t wear it!” It’s up to my mom and me to pull him back down to earth. I mean, isn’t that what family’s for?

Statements

Zoe Jackson is an Emmy Award–nominated television producer and director. She lives in New York City.

MY FATHER THE DRAGON By Shannon Lee DAUGHTER OF LEGENDARY ACTOR, PRODUCER AND DIRECTOR BRUCE LEE, WHO DIED IN 1973 , AGED 32.

SAMUEL L. JACKSON and his daughter, Zoe.

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SAMUEL L. JACKSON : LATANYA RICHARDSON. BRUCE LEE: LINDA PALMER.

was only 4 years old when my father died. We were in Hong Kong. I don’t remember exactly where I was or how I found out, but I believe that my brother, Brandon, and I were with our mom at our home in Kowloon Tong when we got the news that our dad had been rushed to the hospital. Accounts of my father abound, and I am careful to separate what memories are authentically mine from what I have learned through stories. All my very early memories are of Hong Kong, where we moved when I was 2 years old and lived until my father died two years later. The greatest and most vivid memory I hold of my father is an overwhelming sense of being loved by him. That hasn’t diminished in the years since he died. Throughout my life, I’ve always felt that I knew my father, that I had a sense of who he was as a human being

I am older than he ever got to be, but he is still guiding me... as if he never left SHANNON LEE

and what was important to him energetically. I used to think I must be crazy to feel I knew this, given that we spent so little time together and I have so few memories of him. How could I have any idea what he might have wanted? But the thing about my dad, the thing you can see watching films of his even now, is how much of a presence he was. He wouldn’t have said he was a master of life force, or “qi,” but plainly he was. He could summon and deploy energy at will. His energy still pops off the screen directly into us. That is the power that so engraved itself upon my memory. That deep sense of being loved, of being supported, and of having confidence was instilled in me at a young age. I feel it holding me in my approach to the world and how I move through it. I feel safe. At certain times, this sense can become obscured, but it’s always there when I really need it, reminding me who I am. My father hasn’t been in my life since I was a toddler, but he’s never stopped guiding me. Martial arts has always been a part of our lives. Baba (“Dad” in Chinese) had turned our backyard into an informal Jeet Kune Do training ground. Guys like James Coburn, Chuck Norris, and Steve McQueen, as well as Baba’s regular students like Ted Wong, Richard Bustillo, and Dan Inosanto, used to come over to train. I remember my mom telling me the story of Brandon’s best friend, Luke, who never wanted to come over to our house because, as he said, “There are always grown men beating the crap out of each other in the backyard!” After our father died, Brandon and I didn’t study martial arts for many, many years. I tried, briefly, when I was about 9 years old, taking a few Jeet Kune Do lessons with one of Baba’s former students. But the pressure was too great without him. There was a lot of judgment and grief — all mine, but there nonetheless. In my 20s, I finally felt that the time was right, and I asked Ted Wong, who was a family friend, to teach me. I wanted to get closer to my father through his love of kung fu and the art he created. Ted was my dad’s protege in that he had come to my father as a “blank slate,” never having trained prior to

working with him. After my father died, Ted pored over his writings, trying to connect the dots between what he had learned and what my father had left behind. Following Baba’s lead, he had turned his backyard into an informal training area as well. Ted had gotten hold of a chunk of titanium, which he punched to toughen up his hands in the same way my father had used canvas bags and other materials to toughen his years before. Though this was in the early ’90s, in Ted’s backyard in Monterey Park, it felt like the ’70s. There, under his guidance, I reconnected with my father through the movement art he had created. My father was famous for saying, “Be like water,” by which he meant to be fluid, responsive to the situation, alive, present. His Jeet Kune Do is a very simple art — there are no set forms and very few moves — but it requires great skill. Once you achieve a basic understanding, it’s about being able to hone, adapt, and develop your second nature as a fighter. To practice Jeet Kune Do is to practice being alive, and in learning the art, I felt drawn even closer to my father. As I got older, I started to read more of my father’s writings. Though they were usually about martial arts and Jeet Kune Do, they also made it clear that to be like water constituted an entire life philosophy. It’s a philosophy of being open to the world, a philosophy of fluidity, and of being comfortable in the flux. Baba’s words have been a tremendous comfort and inspiration to me in the ebb and flow of my own life. When Brandon died in 1993, I leaned heavily on my dad’s writings to help me process that grief. Now, as a parent myself, I return again and again to my father’s words. I am older than he ever got to be, but he is still guiding me. It’s as if he has returned to me. It’s as if he never left. X

The late BRUCE LEE and his daughter, Shannon.

Statements

Shannon Lee is a writer, producer, actor and speaker, and the founder and CEO of the Bruce Lee Family Companies and the Bruce Lee Foundation. She lives in L.A. with her daughter. EXCERPTS FROM TO ME, HE WAS JUST DAD: STORIES OF GROWING UP WITH FAMOUS FATHERS BY JOSHUA DAVID STEIN (ARTISAN BOOKS, $23).

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MEN’S EDITION

Feature LENNY KRAVITZ wears GARÇONS INFIDÈLES shirt, vintage YSL jeans and vintage jewelry.

LENNY KRAVITZ’S LIFE IN THE TIME OF CORONAVIRUS TEST-DRIVING THIS SEASON’S VALET TREND

NADINE KOUPAEI

THE FINEST ARCHITECTURAL WONDERS OF WINE COUNTRY HOW RHUDE’S RHUIGI VILLASEÑOR REINVENTED L.A. STYLE Spring/Summer 2020 37

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SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO shirt, $1,890. CHROME HEARTS custom pants. Vintage belt and jewelry. Opposite: Vintage sunglasses.

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“This could be a beginning of a new way of life, where we are all one human race.” Feature

From his selfisolation in the Bahamas, Lenny Kravitz, the renaissance-man rockgod and sometime Californian talks hope for the future in a time of global turmoil Words by STEPHANIE RAFANELLI Photography by NADINE KOUPAEI 39

t’s 79 degrees on the Bahamian isle of Eleuthera. The sun is strong and high over 100 miles of coastline; today, no footprints in the sand. Only birdsong and breeze inhabit pineapple plantations. In his island uniform of jeans, shades and dreads, Lenny Kravitz sits outside his Airstream: He lives here while recording at his studio, Gregory Town Sound, playing all the instruments on every track, periodically washing his clothes with Dr. Bronner’s almond soap and a hose, leaving them to dry on the rocks. “I end up spending weeks alone in nature: I think, I make music, I sleep. I get sort of lost in that world,” he tells me, his voice as rich and grounded as Bahamian soil. “I’m at my most peaceful here.” Only a few islanders meet this monastic version of Lenny, the gentle hermit and spiritual man with a musical manifesto of peace and love, who is vegan and exists off the land; who seems so at odds with public Lenny, the raw performer, nostalgic collector and interior designer, the spectacular peacock

with a wanton bare chest, otherwise clad in textural fabrics. Three working decades, 40 million album sales and four Grammys down, with zero visible signs of his 55 years, he is still considered the apotheosis of worldly rock star. I’m not, this time, there to share in this glorious day, for both Kravitz and I, like the majority of the globe, are now in lockdown at our respective homes: He has just canceled the Australasian leg of his world tour — this being the third year on the road for his 11th studio album, Raise Vibration. But he isn’t phased by the solitary existence that faces us all. “The way I normally live here is similar to a quarantined life,” he tells me on the phone. “I always see this time as a blessing: a time to disconnect from the system, from other people; to listen, to hear and work on yourself; come closer to God.” This is a rare occasion that is now to extended to us all. “People are so used to popping in and popping out [of their lives], coming and going. There are so many ways for us to escape ourselves and sort of disappear. … [Right now] you hear

people talk about what they’re learning about their lives, about themselves, their partners, their children. It’s very interesting, this ‘sit back and reset’ that’s going on.” Kravitz has been singing about positive human change for the last 30 years. I first interviewed him at his other home in Paris in 2017, finding his bohemian outlook to be underpinned by his maternal grandfather’s old-school Bahamian values of “discipline” and “respect.” But there is another image of him that always sticks in my mind: A photograph of him as a young boy, at a school fair in the early ’70s on the corner of Manhattan’s East 81st Street and Madison Avenue. Reproduced on the cover of his 2011 album, Black and White America — a celebration of Obama-era multiculturalism — the photography shows Kravitz with a peace sign on his forehead and the word “love” on his right wrist, painted by his mother, actor Roxie Roker. Then a member of the Negro Ensemble Company, Roker was also a civil rights activist and friend

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Vintage YSL jeans. Vintage scarf, belt and jewelry.

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“If my Airstream was all I had, I would still be living like a king” SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO dress, $10,500. VHERNIER earrings, $15,400. Hair by SYLVIA WHEELER at Forward Artists using Bumble and Bumble. Makeup by KATE LEE at The Wall Group using Chanel. Manicure by MILLIE MACHADO.

L E N NY K RAVITZ

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SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO dress, $10,500. VHERNIER earrings, $15,400. Hair by SYLVIA WHEELER at Forward Artists using Bumble and Bumble. Makeup by KATE LEE at The Wall Group using Chanel. Manicure by MILLIE MACHADO.

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Vintage YSL shirt, jeans and boots. Vintage sunglasses and jewelry. Opposite: Vintage sunglasses. RED RABBIT TRADING CO. ring.

of Maya Angelou, Nina Simone and Miles Davis. Kravitz laughs now and says: “That was my statement!” And it has been, ever since his debut album, Let Love Rule (1989), and follow-up, Mama Said (1991). On the cover of the latter, he appeared in his mother’s feather boa and his Jewish father’s flared suit as the living resurrection of late ’60s rock-and-raunch godliness and the Summer of Love. Though he has evolved through many incarnations, Kravitz’s key message has remained consistent right up to Raise Vibration, an urgent call for compassion in the face of white supremacy, corruption and climate change, that came to him in the Bahamas in a series of dreams. For the track “Here to Love,” he directed a video with the United Nations Human Rights Office for its #FightRacism campaign. He says his late mother would be “appalled” by today’s social and political climate, but he sees hope of a new era of oneness in the global pandemic. “We have seen how what affects one person on the other side of the world directly affects us all,” he says, low and slow. “This could be the beginning of a new way of life, in which we treat each other with respect and realize that, no matter how different we may be from each other, we are all one human race.” In recent years, Kravitz has experienced his own relative set of priority shifts. He has owned properties all over, from New York, Miami and New Orleans to Brazil, the Bahamas and Paris. (His daughter, Big Little Lies actor Zoë Kravitz, now 31, recalled for Rolling Stone in 2018 how her dad would pick her up from school in a sports car and leather trousers after she moved to Miami at age 11 to live with him.) On the suggestion of Philippe Starck, he founded his own interiors company, Kravitz Design, in 2003. “There’s nothing wrong with luxurious things as long as, at the end of the day, you can just walk away. It’s been an exercise for me in the last year or two to shed as much as possible. It’s a process. If I just had this Airstream, I would still be living like a king as far as I’m concerned. I don’t lack for anything here.” He still has his moments of being a Champagne hippie. In his other life, he is the creative director of Dom Pérignon, and he recently designed a vegan snakeskin camera for Leica. He still owns his organic farm outside Rio De Janeiro and a stately mansion in the 16th arrondissement of Paris with a basement speakeasy befitting his rock persona, adorned with a Basquiat and vintage pieces by Pucci and

Gabriella Crespi. Most of his collected objects have sentimental significance — the heeled boots of his late friend Prince and items that once belonged to his heroes James Brown and Muhammad Ali. It’s all a million miles from monastic Lenny, for whom the trusty Airstream has further honed design skills. “I think it teaches me how little space you can live in.” He says it feels “womb-like,” a term he also uses for the lobby of 75 Kenmare, the New York apartment block he recently completed. He has always seen homes as places to nurture, as cocoons. “Your home is your refuge, regardless of size. It’s about the vibe. You can walk into somebody’s studio apartment that feels worth more to your senses than a 24,000-square-foot home.” And he hasn’t lost his magpie’s eye, often turning to his old stomping ground of L.A. for finds: his latest snatch is a rocking lounger by Oscar

“It’s very interesting, this ‘sit back and reset’ that’s Feature going on” L E N NY K RAVITZ

Niemeyer, who is among his favorite designers, along with Chemosphere architect John Lautner. He’s an aficionado of midcentury Californian design. His company has worked on several iconic L.A. homes, including one in the Trousdale Estates by Jack Charney, which has been described by Architectural Digest as “Slim Aarons meets Casino.” Alongside the interiors of the Temple Hotel in Detroit, Kravitz Design is currently working on two more midcentury homes in Malibu. The design period is nostalgic for Kravitz: In 1974, when his mother was cast in The Jeffersons, she was one-half of America’s first television portrayal of an interracial marriage (it mirrored her own, with news producer Sy Kravitz), the family decamped from Manhattan to Baldwin Hills. “It was this beautiful midcentury-modern house, with glass in the back, overlooking

Los Angeles. To me [aged 10], it was like what you saw in the movies,” Kravitz says. The same was true of his mother’s friends’ homes: “Ray Charles lived in a midcentury house in the area,” he recalls. But there are also sad memories: He was at producer Rick Rubin’s house in 1995 on the day his mother died of cancer, where Johnny Cash comforted him. It was Roker who taught him of the immateriality of the material. “‘I have to look at myself in the mirror every day,’” he says she used to tell him. “‘And who I am is the person without any of those things.’” By then Kravitz had married and divorced Cosby Show star Lisa Bonet (Zoë’s mother), with whom he lived in Venice in two adjoined craftsman houses before they split. Kravitz is still close with Bonet and her husband, Jason Momoa, who live in Topanga Canyon with their two children. Kravitz tells me, “We are one family, wherever we are dispersed.” Bonet and Momoa’s entire brood descended on the Paris residence of Kravitz, who is currently single, last June for Zoë’s wedding to actor Karl Glusman. “It was one of the most beautiful things I have ever witnessed. It was about love. It inspired people to want to love more, harder, stronger, deeper.” He is concerned right now about Zoë, who is stranded in London, where she’s been filming her role as Catwoman opposite Robert Pattinson in The Batman (scheduled to be released next year). “Of course, I’m concerned for the safety of my child, but I trust her instincts, and she’s with her husband,” he says. Kravitz has also been checking in with friends, including his “big brother” Denzel Washington. “Denzel is good, everybody is good,” he says. “The beautiful thing is that everybody’s together, under one roof. I’ve called a lot of people that I haven’t spoken to in years; maybe we had some issues, but you realize now that’s not important.” The most uplifting thing to come out of near-planetary shutdown, he says, is the state of the planet. “Ships aren’t going back and forth, there are less planes, less cars. … We are hearing about animals and sea life showing up in places that they haven’t been for years. The planet is beginning to heal itself,” he says over the sound of Eleutheran wind, now picking up in the palm trees. “I just hope that at the end of all of this we can say: ‘How do we go forward in our lives so that we can continue to heal the planet?’ I just wish that we could do that.” X

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Vintage YSL shirt and jeans. Vintage sunglasses, belt and jewelry.

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The uniformclad hero of the California curbside is celebrated this season with key ingredients from pastels to checks, zippers to shades

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Photography by MARK GRIFFIN CHAMPION Creative & Fashion Direction by ALISON EDMOND 50

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PRADA shirt, $980, and pants, $780. OLIVER PEOPLES x THE ROW sunglasses, $563. Opposite: DIOR MEN jacket, $4,500, tank top, $750, and pants, $1,600. OLIVER PEOPLES sunglasses, $542.

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SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.77.

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TOM FORD jacket, $6,190, top, $1,540, and pants, $1,740. KOIO sneakers, $248. Opposite: PAUL SMITH jacket, $1,095, T-shirt, price upon request, and pants, $495. OLIVER PEOPLES x THE ROW sunglasses, $563. Model GRANT SNYDER at Photogenics. Hair and makeup by DEE DALY at Opus Beauty using Oribe and Chanel Les Beiges.

VINE ART Feature

A new book distills the architectural gems and modernist estates of

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PAUL DYER

into one epic tome

Words by KELSEY McKINNON 58

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In Napa Valley, a 1,200-square-foot cabin designed by WADE DESIGN ARCHITECTS sits at the end of a half-mile driveway that winds through a state park .

hen Napa Valley’s Dominus Estate commissioned Swiss firm Herzog & de Meuron in the late 1990s to create its stealthy low-lying new winery, it ushered in an era that brought the world’s finest winemakers and architects together. In Linda Leigh Paul’s new tome, Wine Country Living, the design authority surveys how California’s traditional chateaus and Spanish-style haciendas have since given way to modern viticultural temples to fit 21st-century tastes, designed by big-name firms, including Allied Works Architecture and Cutler Anderson Architects. The homes are as varied as the terroir, from bold cantilevered concrete and steel structures jutting out of an “unbuildable” hillside to a cozy wood-clad cabin nestled in a forest of Oregon firs. Paul explains that his best projects

— in locales ranging from Santa Barbara to Sonoma County’s northern AVA (American Viticultural Area) — have started with a careful study of the land to determine the angles of the sun and moon, animal migrations and which way the wind blows. “I have known architects who have camped out on-site to capture the exact movements of stars for skylights,” Paul says. Take S.F.-based architect Daniel Piechota’s ground-up project on an 8-acre parcel in Carmel’s Santa Lucia Preserve, a small pinot noir-producing region within the Monterey AVA blessed with a long growing season and sandy, nutrient-poor soils that require deep roots to reach water. Piechota positioned the L-shaped home at the perimeter of a forest in a sunny clearing surrounded by old-growth oaks, leaving plenty of room for the small family herds of deer to graze in the

From top: Built on a hillside in Rutherford, a 75-foot lap pool surrounded by oaks and tufa boulders offers views of the valley. Napa Valley’s famed cabernet sauvignon grapes ready for harvest.

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POOL: TIM GRIFFITH. GRAPES: JOSE ALFONSO/UNSPLASH. EXTERIOR: ART GRICE.

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Rammed-earth walls flank the entrance of a dramatic CUTLER ANDERSON ARCHITECTS-designed property in Sonoma County.

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A T-shaped modern manse dreamt up by SWATT MIERS ARCHITECTS is a study in volumes with floor to ceiling glass walls and a deep floating roof.

EXTERIOR: MARION BRENNER. DINING ROOM: MATTHEW MILLMAN. LIVING ROOM: PAUL DYER.

meadows. Concrete, weathered steel and natural cedar were employed to mimic the colors and textures of the hills. Paul describes the living area that overlooks an adjacent oak grove as evoking the sensation of dwelling in a tree house. A glass-enclosed bridge, swaths of negative space and broad steps “express a slowing down, a calming among the wellbeing of the oaks,” Paul says. “The totality of the house is an expression of pleasure, composure, the world as it should be.” Naturally, many of the featured homes belong to serious full-time winemakers (Colleen and James Harder, the Sokol Blosser family, Michael Etzel and Carey Critchlow of Sequitur Vineyards to name a few), but there are also the stories of Zen-seeking weekenders on the other side of the fence. And, perhaps not surprisingly, there are the many designers, artists and architects drawn by the region’s Arcadian lifestyle, natural beauty and space to express their creativity. A few minutes from architect Brandon Jorgenson’s firm, Atelier Jorgenson, in downtown Napa, the 1960s-era home designed by Walter Thomas Brooks that he

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From top: A repurposed steel ocean buoy pendant light hangs above a dining table that rolls along tracks cast into the cement floor at a SENTINEL RIDGE vineyard residence. A cozy Napa cabin designed by Wade Design Architects features a soaring fireplace in the double-height living room.

shares with his wife, Katy, is quite literally designed to mimic the shape of a flower, with sweeping “petals” that gracefully hang over terraces to protect them from sun and rain. A modernist-midcentury ranch may seem out of place among the area’s beloved Victorian-era farmhouses, but Paul shows that some of the finest expressions of California’s modernist craze are at the end of dirt country roads and surrounded by vineyards. Some of these have only recently been discovered: One such home is Napa’s Telesis 2.0, originally designed by Jack Hillmer, featuring a counterclockwise floorplan spiraling outward from a central tower anchored by a custom Rumford-style fireplace (in order to make it feel more open, there isn’t a single 90-degree angle

“The totality of the house is an expression of pleasure, composure, the world as it should be” L I N D A L E I G H PA U L

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Architect JOHN MANISCALCO reimagined a 1970s ranch house to include deeply cantilevered overhangs, linear wooden forms and views from every room of Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley. Top: In Napa Valley, the landmarked Telesis 2.0 house underwent an extensive renovations by KATHERINE LAMBERT and CHRISTIANE ROBBINS of MAP ARCHITECTS, who purchased the home in 2011.

EXTERIOR: BLAKE MARVIN. VINEYARD: MARION BRENNER. KITCHEN: JO FLETCHER. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.77.

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in the whole house). Katherine Lambert and Christiane Robbins, partners in MAP Architects, purchased the property in 2011 and painstakingly revitalized it for the next generation. During the process, the home was recognized as a cultural landmark. Across the valley, a new construction on Sentinel Ridge straddling Howell Mountain that was designed by Field Architecture took cues from the land’s agrarian roots, resulting in a monastic modern barn. Local designer Erin Martin was called upon for the interiors. In the dining room, she cast tracks into a concrete floor so that an enormous wood table on a steel carriage frame could slide to another room to become a wine tasting table. It’s just one example of how people are employing creative new ways to connect with the land. Whether it’s using rammed earth walls or reclaimed Douglas fir facades, or whether the property is deep in the valley or high on a ridgeline, perhaps no element is more important in wine country than glass. A glass in which to pour the house cabernet, yes, but also glass through which to glimpse the lavender-studded pastures, duck ponds, meditation platforms, bocci courts, infinity pools and surrounding vineyards. For at these domiciles, even the most pedigreed cellars have a hard time competing with the views. •

Top right: A grove of aged live oaks frame Russian River Valley’s famed pinot noir vineyards.

RHUDE AWAKENING

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Beloved by the biggest stars in hip-hop and basketball, the maverick designer Rhuigi VillaseĂąor is reinventing L.A. streetwear

for the world

Words by CHRIS WALLACE 66

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SAINT RHUIGI LAURENT VILLASEÃ&#x2018;OR BY ANTHONY looksVACCARELLO upon a reference dress, board $10,500. in hisVHERNIER Downtownearrings, L.A. studio. $15,400. Hair by SYLVIA Opposite, WHEELER from at Forward top: A Artists model using poses Bumble during the andRHUDE Bumble.Fall/Winter Makeup by2020 KATEfittings. LEE at AThe look Wall from Group the Spring/Summer using Chanel. Manicure 2020 collection. by MILLIE MACHADO.

“Personal growth and brand development move at a different pace”

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RHUIGI VILLASEÑOR

Clockwise from top left: A moment from the Spring/Summer 2020 fittings. Villaseñor adjusts a model’s look . Rhude high-top sneakers, $595. Opposite: Villaseñor in his Downtown L.A. studio.

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n early March, Rhuigi Villaseñor’s studio in Downtown Los Angeles is still humming along in the creative nexus of his hometown. He sits at a table by paintings of his own making, the calm eye of a creative storm, talking through design ideas with his team and plotting out business decisions with his partner in the company, George Robertson. He is fresh from a recent collaboration of colorblocked tracksuits, graphic tees and sneakers with Puma, the debut of his first womenswear line at Paris Fashion Week, and

is looking forward to a “semisecret” project with Formula 1. This is just days before mayor Eric Garcetti orders the temporary closure of all bars, restaurants, gyms and theaters in Los Angeles, and there is an air of uncertainty amid the teetering panels of mood boards and heaving racks of high-end sweats and trucker caps. One could call L.A. his “adopted” city, because Rhuigi, 27, was born in the Philippines and emigrated from Manila to greener pastures in the form of the San Fernando Valley with his

family when he was 11. But Los Angeles is the designer’s home — not to mention one of his muses (he recently debuted a hat and T-shirt in collaboration with the Lakers). As a teenager in Woodland Hills, he was “a bit of a sponge,” he says. “Of course, I had my group of friends that thrifted vintage clothes and resold them, but I adapted to almost any of the groups when I was in school.” Rhuigi converted his parents’ living room into a kind of working atelier, experimenting with dyes, cuts and fabrics to make his own garments under the tutelage of his mother, a tailor, who taught him the fundamentals of clothing and sewing. When Rhuigi was only 20 years old, before he had even formally launched a company, Kendrick Lamar wore his now famous bandana motif shirt to the 2012 BET Awards. But it took a few years before Rhuigi could properly put the business together; then the label immediately became famous to hypebeasts and style aficionados. Now Rhude shows its collections in Paris and is, alongside Amiri, atop the vanguard of an immensely talented crop of L.A. designers, carried everywhere from Maxfield to Nordstrom, Patron of the New to Mr Porter. It’s quite a trajectory, and one propelled by Rhuigi himself as the face and spirit of the brand, something he acknowledges is a challenge to scale. “Especially as personal growth and brand development move at a different pace,” he says. It’s not just an interest in clothing that started him on this path in life, it is his interest in seemingly everything else that has set Rhude apart in a very dense marketplace. The race car motifs (from his passion for cars), the trucker caps and track pants, the pajama shirts and whimsical patterns, his modern update of the Paul Newman/Gianni Agnelli racecar playboy figure — they’re all very Rhuigi. You could even understand the menswear collections as something of a self-portrait in pieces, and the designer is quick to acknowledge that the womenswear hasn’t quite yet hit its stride. “I’m still trying to catch my rhythm with women’s,” he says. “It’s not an easy road to go, so we’re taking it slow and steady. I showed it for the first time on the runway in January. But with the shutdowns [due to coronavirus], there are so many things that we have to readjust as far as strategy.” To be clear, it’s not as if he is lost in some conceptual minefield, trying to drape some new exotic technique onto a womenswear canvas. He doesn’t design that way. “I think I’m more of a

problem-solver, making things that may already exist within our current wardrobes, but with our twist on it,” he says. Take, for example, the Rhude trackpant, a luxury trouser spin on the sweatpant, with an elastic cuff and drawstring — widely copied now, but when it emerged a few years ago, it was a special sort of unicorn. Coming as it did at the height of the athleisure trend in the marketplace, and with Rhude’s own particularly high-end slant on streetwear, the Rhude trackpant kind of vaulted men’s everyday trousers forward into a new aspirational world that we all take for granted now, but felt novel and essential then. (Combined with his particular take on a sophisticated pajama shirt, the track pants make up what Rhuigi calls the “traxedo” — mixing the refinement of a tuxedo with the ease of a tracksuit, and therein so much of the code of the brand). “I think that the trackpant is actually the real indication of what the brand stands for,” Rhuigi says now. “I think it became a gateway for guys that were done wearing just jeans and being stuck into this fully streetwear thing, and for guys that wanted to dress up but still be comfortable. It was really a condensed version of what Rhude meant at that time. And those trackpants became one of my five pillars.” Of course, the main pillar — the face, the taste, the engine and the guiding spirit — of the brand is Rhuigi himself, a guy who taught himself English by watching his beloved Kobe Bryant’s postgame interviews, and who — hungry to fit in with the cool kids, and determined to “learn the style codes,” better than they knew them — sometimes supported himself after high school

“We all want to partake in something Feature that we’re not accepted in” RHUIGI VILLASEÑOR

by thrifting and reselling Goodwill clothing. “I dig deep into the time when I was a kid, and I was interested in so many different cultures and sporting events. Or just different things that root from a place where you were denied it. We all want to partake in something that we’re not accepted in. That’s the space I dive into now.” In his role as his own best brand ambassador, Rhuigi is frequently in the company of his celebrity fans, like Jay-Z, who wore Rhude x Lakers gear on a recent visit to the Staples Center with the designer; and LeBron James, who often wears Rhude in his pregame appearances; and on Instagram with The Weeknd, Mahershala Ali and even Diane Keaton. “I played basketball when I was younger,” Rhuigi explains. “And if you think about pickup games, you have to learn to adapt with people to be able to play in the game.” He does still play a bit and, until recently, coached his little brother’s youth team (they all started asking for free clothes). His main exercise comes from jogging up and down the hills on which he lives. At home, past the MacLaren and the Mercedes truck, it’s an eclectic collector’s paradise — with north-facing views of the Valley. There’s more museum-quality midcentury furniture, as well as the designer’s own, graphic paintings — his work, which he showed recently at Maxfield’s in Beverly Hills, owes something to both Pierre Soulages and Basquiat. Throughout, there is abundant evidence of his taste for luxury. In his closet: Hermès, Rick Owens, Berluti. Among his treasured pieces, his Baccarat and world-class watch collection (most of which lives in safety deposit boxes). And on his wish list: a Prouvé chair and “maybe a little [Richard] Serra piece.” His passion for these things, whether as trophies (as he once called his watches) or as signifiers of taste (which he says he had to master to fit in as a young immigrant) fuel him. It was his love of Nascar and basketball, of course, that gave the brand two of its most memorable design motifs. But where is he looking now? “Honestly, I’m like an old man,” he says. “All I want to do is go fly-fishing and watch horses. I love watching horses. I love horseback riding.” He laughs. He’s been on a bit of a whirlwind traveling schedule, and with all the uncertainty that health and safety cancellations have caused everywhere, he can’t wait to get home again, to “take a drive up the PCH to be with his parents” at the their place near Malibu. “That’s not even downtime,” he says. “That’s what it’s all for. That’s the point of it all.” X

From top: The finale of the Fall/Winter 2020 show in Paris in January. The designer’s Rhude diamond pendant and necklace. Opposite: Villaseñor dons a Rhude Spring/Summer 2020 collection blanket.

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THE EYE HAS TO TRAVEL

KURT ISWARIENKO

Celebrity photographer and longtime C Magazine lensman Kurt Iswarienko on the finer points of his art and his meditative first book

TRAVEL

WELLNESS

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I E S 73

T RAVE L

D I A R Y

I S C O V E R I E S

ver the past 20 years, Kurt Iswarienko has shot the likes of U2 and Lana Del Rey as well as recent campaigns for Universal’s 1917 and Netflix’s When They See Us, the Lincoln Motor Company and Netjets. He says that At Some Point Along The Way, his first book, was a way “to slow down and take stock of my relationship with photography at a time when what photography means, and what it means to call yourself a photographer, has changed immensely.” How would you sum up the imagery? I am known mostly as a portrait photographer who does emotional, intimate portraits with a cinematic style of lighting. This book is almost entirely unlit empty landscapes with no people, so it’s quite a different genre of photography, but it’s thematically

KURT ISWARIENKO

Travel

and stylistically the same as my portrait work. I shot almost all of these in spare moments, either scouting, or traveling to locations, or in between what I am paid to shoot. That’s where the title came from. Tell us about your process. My process is to approach each project as though my primary purpose is to be curious about all the things I

Clockwise from top: Polaroids of Death Valley held against a window at the Million Dollar Hotel on Skid Row in Downtown L.A. The beach off Malibu Road. Pacific Coast Highway at sundown. Opposite, from top: Key West, Florida. Santa Paula, Calif.

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“Photographs are like songs, so pick subjects near to your heart you feel you can tell a story with” KU RT ISWAR I E N KO

can do differently or better this time around to make a project stand out from the last one. Weapon of choice? I look at cameras and lenses the way a chef might look at knives and saute pans. These are tools of the trade, but they don’t do anything special on their own. I’m enjoying shooting with the new GFX 100 by FujiFilm with its GF line of lenses. I also shoot a lot of film on my spectacular Hasselblad 503CW camera and Zeiss Distagon lenses. How does someone follow in your footsteps? Photographs are like songs, so pick subjects near and dear to your heart [that] you feel you can tell a story with. Even if you collaborate with an empty landscape to tell your story. Let’s talk lighting. What’s your trick? There is no right or wrong way to light a picture. You either have to find the style of lighting that works for you and let that define your look, or you can learn to do lighting that supports the story you are trying to tell, which will allow you to grow creatively. What time of day is best for light quality? Any time of day. If I was able to choose, I’d go for the subdued and atmospheric early morning light that suits the mood in most of my photography and works especially well for wider, landscape-driven shots. What is the most common rookie mistake? Most mistakes are probably just technical. Those are the best to lean into to discover the happy accidents that can happen to give your work a unique stylistic edge. Your golden rule for a good picture? A good picture has to have a point of view. When you take a picture, you are doing it to tell us something you couldn’t say any other way. Can an “eye” be trained? An eye can be trained the way a person can be taught to play an instrument. Some have natural, easily

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accessed talent, while others have to work very hard to uncover their talent, whether by sheer power of the will, or through a lot of training. What is next for you? I’m building a mobile app for photographers called Lensr. It’s a platform showcasing the work of top photographers, allowing users to discover great photography, learn from each other, and buy and sell equipment. Signed copies of At Some Point Along The Way, $250, are available at shopstudio-c.com. •

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C A L I F O R N I A

the beach, where we shot the football montage.

Favorite bar? Tramp Stamp Granny’s. Not the spot for a low-key drink, but if you’re looking for things to get a little rowdy, look no further.

C O V

Favorite cocktail? A Casamigos mezcal mule.

E R

Favorite market? The Rose Bowl Flea Market if you’re entertaining folks from out of town, redecorating or just want to do some oldfashioned people-watching.

I E S

Favorite date spot? Live jazz at LACMA on Fridays. Last TV show you binged? The Last Man on Earth seemed relatable the past few weeks.

The Top Gun star jets to Napa and plays volleyball on Manhattan Beach Where do you live? Hollywood Hills. Where did you grow up? I was born and raised in Austin, Texas. It was magical: great food, great outdoors, and the people are social, active and creative. L.A. has that same energy. People here are forever young and always down for adventures. Favorite hike? I love a hike up to Griffith Observatory — usually for sunrise, sunset or some wild moon activity.

MY CA

Favorite beach? Manhattan Beach. I have a pretty competitive weekly volleyball game down there. How do you exercise? Since being on lockdown [social distancing during the coronavirus pandemic], I’ve been mostly boxing at home. Favorite getaway? Whether you’re in the camping spirit or want the five-star experience, Napa has it all. I just got my pilot’s license, so I’m hoping to make those getaways more frequent. Favorite takeout? Craig’s on Melrose for the chicken velasco and some peanut butter crunch ice cream. Favorite hotel? While shooting Top Gun, I stayed at the Hotel del Coronado in San Diego. It’s right on

Top Gun: Maverick is scheduled to hit theaters on Dec. 23.

Favorite road? The drive to Big Sur. One of my favorite memories was playing golf with my dad on Father’s Day and making that drive up the coast together. What do you wear? Levi’s and Rag & Bone during the day. If I have to get dolled up for an event, my go-tos are Valentino, Armani and Dior. Favorite grooming products? I am not a high-maintenance dude. Just Kiehl’s, Mario Badescu and Le Labo. Favorite spa? Voda Spa in West Hollywood. I do the steam, sauna, hot tub, cold plunge circuit for hours. Favorite sunglasses? After spending the last year and a half on Top Gun, of course I’ve become a Ray-Bans man. •

ASHLEY BARRETT

GLEN POWELL

Fashion Island

D I S C O V E R T H E F I N E S T R E TA I L , D I N I N G A N D E N T E R TA I N M E N T, I N A N U N M AT C H E D C O A S TA L S E T T I N G . Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom, Macy’s, AG, Alice + Olivia, Anthropologie & Co., Apple, Drybar, FIG & OLIVE, Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar, GARYS, Hyde Park Jewelers, Lilly Pulitzer, Louis Vuitton, Nespresso, Peloton, Rebecca Taylor, RED O Mexican Cuisine by Rick Bayless, Restoration Hardware, Rolex, St. John, SUITSUPPLY, Tesla Motors, THE LOT, Tommy Bahama Home, TravisMathew, True Food Kitchen, Vince, Voluspa, Zadig & Voltaire. Partial list.

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