C California Style & Culture

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FORCE OF NATURE September 2019

SARAH PAULSON

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Cover

FALL FASHION ISSUE PLUS TAMARA MELLON / SAINT LAURENT IN MALIBU / NICK FOUQUET / STATE OF SUSTAINABILITY

& CU


Saint Laurent


Saint Laurent


Prada


Prada


Chanel


Chanel


Miu Miu


Miu Miu


Bottega Veneta


Bottega Veneta


Fendi


FENDI BOUTIqUES 646 520 2830 FENDI.COm

SCAN WITH THE FENDI APP TO SEE EXCLUSIVE CONTENT

Fendi


Moncler


Moncler


MaxMara


MaxMara

MAXMARA.COM BEVERLY HILLS COSTA MESA


Michael Kors


Michael Kors


Salvatore Ferragamo

RODEO DRIVE FLAGSHIP BEVERLY CENTER WESTFIELD TOPANGA SOUTH COAST PLAZA FASHION VALLEY SAN FRANCISCO WESTFIELD VALLEY FAIR THE FORUM SHOPS AT CAESARS THE GRAND CANAL SHOPPES WYNN LAS VEGAS FERRAGAMO.COM


Salvatore Ferragamo


Bulgari


Bulgari


Giorgio Armani

South Coast Plaza 714.546.9377


Giorgio Armani


Valentino


Valentino

VALENTINO.COM BEVERLY HILLS: 324 NORTH RODEO DRIVE (310) 247-0103 SOUTH COAST PLAZA: 3333 BRISTOL STREET (714) 751-3300 SAN FRANCISCO:105 GRANT AVENUE (415) 772-9835


Van Cleef & Arpels


Van Cleef & Arpels


Vera Wang


Vera Wang


KENDALL JENNER

Longchamp

BEVERLY CENTER I TEL. (424) 313 3483 SOUTH COAST PLAZA LEVEL 2 I TEL. (714) 436 1963 LONGCHAMP.COM


Longchamp


Jimmy Choo


Jimmy Choo


Ben Bridge


Ben Bridge


Kate Spade


Kate Spade


Marin Community Foundation


Virtuo u so uo Her priority is gender equity. Her focus is in developing countries. Her giving is through Virtuoso. The modern alternative to a private foundation. Marin Community Foundation

With Offices in Marin and San Francisco. www.marincf.org | 415.464.2507


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STATEMENTS Milliner Nick Fouquet moves into a new Abbot Kinney address..................................................... 61

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Country strong: provincial plaids and headscarves for the outdoorsy type........................... 64 Checking out Soho House’s first West Coast hotel concept............................................................... 66 What California brands are doing to thwart fashion-fueled climate change........................ 80

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Max Mara hails actor Elizabeth Debicki as the face of the future................................................... 86

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FEATURES Fashion renegade Sarah Paulson’s circuitous path to stardom....................................................................................................................... 92 CDG to LAX: Saint Laurent debuts its latest wares before an A-list crowd in Malibu................................................................ 100 Fall’s most rebellious looks get the cinematic treatment at Universal Studios................................................................................ 108

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At home in Bel Air with fashion power couple Emma and Jens Grede................................................................................................... 122 How Tamara Mellon’s next step is disrupting the luxury footwear market.......................................................................................... 132

DISCOVERIES

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The enduring intrigue of Mykonos....................................................................................................................................................................................... 139 Trend-defying CBD-laced beauty essentials................................................................................................................................................................ 144 Michael Kors dishes on his classically cool California.......................................................................................................................................... 146

MAGAZ I N EC.COM

SARAH PAULSON: GUY AROCH. SAINT LAURENT: RAINER HOSCH. PUNK FASHION: BEN MORRIS. JENS AND EMMA GREDE: ADRIAN GAUT. BOOKS: IMAGES COPYRIGHT © 2019 BY SHADE DEGGES. REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM BIBLIOSTYLE: HOW WE LIVE AT HOME WITH BOOKS, BY NINA FREUDENBERGER, COPYRIGHT © 2019. PUBLISHED BY CLARKSON POTTER, A DIVISION OF PENGUIN RANDOM HOUSE, LLC. MODEL WITH UNDER-EYE LASHES: ALEXANDRE JARAS. BIXBY BRIDGE: DANIELA ARAYA/UNSPLASH. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.145.

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Gucci


D I G ITA L

C O N T E N T S

T H I S J U ST I N . . .

WHAT’S HOT ON MAGAZINEC.COM THIS MONTH FEATU R I NG

EXCLUSIVE VIDEOS

SHOPPING GUIDES To the coolest new releases across the state

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DINING MUSTS

SHAILENE WOODLEY DOES IT HER WAY

What to order where, from those in the know

PLUS TH E L ATEST

HAPPE N I NGS

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PARTI ES

OPE N I NGS

MAGAZ I N EC.COM

GUCCI: GLEN LUCHFORD. BON TEMPS: CHRIS FORTUNA. SHAILENE WOODLEY: CAITLIN CRONENBERG. SERPENTINE PAVILION: IWAN BAAN. LUCY FOLK PARTY: DAVEY JAMES CLARKE. LOUIS VUITTON: STEFANIE KEENAN/GETTY IMAGES.

Behind-the-scenes interviews with our cover stars


Etro


JENNIFER SMITH HALE

Founder, Editorial Director & CEO JENNY MURRAY

Editor & President Chief Strategy Officer

ANDREW BARKER

| Chief Creative Officer JAMES TIMMINS

Executive Creative & Fashion Director

ALISON EDMOND

Beauty Director

Digital Content + Copy Editor

Photo Editor

KELLY ATTERTON

MARIE LOOK

LAUREN SCHUMACHER

Senior Editor

Fashion Market Editor

Contributing Senior Designer

MELISSA GOLDSTEIN

REBECCA RUSSELL

LAUREL LEWIS

Contributing Senior Editor

Assistant Fashion Editor

Graphic Designer

KELSEY McKINNON

MARGRIT JACOBSEN

JACOB WITT

Deputy Managing Editor ANUSH J. BENLIYAN

Masthead

Contributing Editors Elizabeth Khuri Chandler, Kendall Conrad, Danielle DiMeglio, Diane Dorrans Saeks, Andrea Stanford, Stephanie Steinman Contributing Writers Catherine Bigelow, Christina Binkley, Caroline Cagney, Kerstin Czarra, Helena de Bertodano, Punch Hutton, Christine Lennon, Martha McCully, Degen Pener, Jessica Ritz, Elizabeth Varnell, S. Irene Virbila Contributing Photographers Guy Aroch, David Cameron, Mark Griffin Champion, Victor Demarchelier, Amanda Demme, Michelangelo Battista, Lisa Eisner, Douglas Friedman, Sam Frost, Adrian Gaut, Beau Grealy, Zoey Grossman, Pamela Hanson, Rainer Hosch, Kurt Iswarienko, Mona Kuhn, Kurt Markus, Ben Morris, Bella Newman, Carter Smith, Alistair Taylor-Young, Jan Welters Intern Ela Suvak

RENEE MARCELLO

Publisher

Executive Director Southern California

Client Services & Production Director

Finance Associate

CRISTA VAGHI

AMY LIPSON

TROY FELKER

Executive Director Northern California

Sales Development Manager

Finance Assistant

AUTUMN O’KEEFE

ANNE MARIE PROVENZA

LEE SULTAN

Information Technology Director SANDY HUBBARD

ANDY NELSON

Chief Financial Officer & Chief Operating Officer C PUBLISHING 1543 SEVENTH STREET, SECOND FLOOR, SANTA MONICA, CA 90401 T: 310-393-3800 SUBSCRIBE@MAGAZINEC.COM MAGAZINEC.COM C-STATEOFMIND.COM


Pomellato


F O U N D E R’S

L E T T E R

EDITORS’ PICKS This month’s wish list

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ometimes the reality of living the life très chic is not so easily attained. It takes effort to look effortless (the irony!). Thankfully, fashionable living on the West Coast has become even more accessible as of late, thanks to European houses such as Saint Laurent putting on splashy shows, homegrown designers pulling rank and power players choosing our state as their base. Take sartorial cool couple Emma and Jens Grede, co-founders of Good American and Frame denim brands, respectively. Their recent move from London to la-la land testifies to our state’s status as a cultural epicenter beyond being the entertainment capital, and their new home in Bel Air is just the latest in a line of successes. Speaking of which, is there a better poster girl for female entrepreneurship right now than shoe designer Tamara Mellon? Having co-founded Jimmy Choo, she recently closed a $50 million funding round for her eponymous line, one of the largest amounts raised by a female founder of a fashion brand. Chapeau, Tamara. Of course, the entertainment industry continues to thrive, with new platforms bringing more opportunities than ever for the likes of our cover subject, Sarah Paulson. The actor presents a triple threat in that she is starring in some of fall’s most anticipated roles, she is a shining example of how one can use their voice to take a stand, and incidentally, she is a fashion darling, which only adds to her power. In fact, I would venture to say that while some may think fashion to be frivolous, I like to think of it as armor — designed to tackle the business of the day. And, if properly prepared, you can conquer anything!

IRENE NEUWIRTH One-of-a-kind mixed tourmaline earrings, $15,760, ireneneuwirth.com.

JACQUES MARIE MAGE Leonora Noir sunglasses, $550, jacquesmariemage.com.

Founder’s Note

Founder, Editorial Director and CEO

@ccaliforniastyle

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Limited-edition beach towel with illustration by David Downton, $106, orsalia-parthenis.gr/en/.

ON THE COVER

SARAH PAULSON. Photography by GUY AROCH. Creative & Fashion Direction by ALISON EDMOND. Hair by GREGORY RUSSELL at The Wall Group using Amika Velveteen Dream. Makeup by ADAM BREUCHAUD at The Wall Group using Dior. Manicure by TRACY CLEMENS at Opus Beauty using Chanel Le Vernis. Production by CAMP PRODUCTIONS. Paulson wears GUCCI top, FENDI skirt, VRAM earrings and VHERNIER ring.

MAGAZ I N EC.COM

ILLUSTRATION: DAVID DOWNTON. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.145.

JENNIFER SMITH HALE

DAVID DOWNTON FOR PARTHENIS


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BEVER LY CENTER, BEVER LY DR IVE, W E STFIELD CEN T U RY CIT Y, SOU T H COA ST PL A Z A

Sandro


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GUY AROCH

ALICIA ZUMBACK

Photographer Guy Aroch, who splits his time between New York and L.A., captured the style and poise of actor Sarah Paulson for “On Top of the World,” p.92. In addition to his work for C, he has collaborated with in-demand brands like Hugo Boss, Estée Lauder and Coca-Cola. MY C SPOTS • Formosa Cafe in West Hollywood for amazing Chinese food • Dogtown Coffee in Venice does a mean cappuccino, and I connect with its skate vibes • The bar at Hotel Bel-Air has a jazz pianist who really adds to the spot’s atmosphere

Alicia Zumback’s CAMP Productions executed several shoots in this issue, including our cover portfolio in Malibu with actor Sarah Paulson. Her client list includes Marie Claire, Vogue, Adidas, Showtime and L’Oréal Paris. When not producing, she wild-harvests ingredients in the Sierra Nevadas for her salve line, Bolt. MY C SPOTS • Benbow Historic Inn in Garberville, once Clark Gable’s getaway • Hippo in Highland Park for the cherry-balsamic soda • The Sonoma farmers market, particularly the bread by Mike “The Bejkr” Zakowski

CHRISTINA BINKLEY Writer Christina Binkley profiled the designer for “Tamara Mellon’s Next Step,” p.132. She is the author of the New York Times best-seller Winner Takes All about Las Vegas’ casino moguls and was a member of The Wall Street Journal team that won a Pulitzer Prize for its coverage of 9/11. MY C SPOTS • Uno Tre Otto restaurant in Claremont because the dishes remind me of northern Italy • Silver Lake’s Sunset Nurseries has or can obtain any plant you can dream of • Mountain High Coffee & Books in Cobb is also a community hub and virtual town hall

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GREGORY RUSSELL L.A.-based Gregory Russell, who styled Sarah Paulson’s tresses for this issue, has collaborated with such prominent photographers as Patrick Demarchelier and Chris Colls, as well as worked with publications InStyle and Harper’s Bazaar, and fashion brands like Revolve and Kate Spade. MY C SPOTS • Yuko Kitchen for the yummiest Japanese cuisine • Spellbound Sky on Santa Monica Boulevard has amazing pieces and jewelry • Painted Bird is a well-curated vintage shop, and I always leave with something special

MAGAZ I N EC.COM

WORDS BY MARIE LOOK. BINKLEY: DOUG PIBURN. ZUMBACK: ROMAN UDALOV.

Contributors


Versace

BEVERLY HILLS - PH. 310.205.3921 - BEVERLY CENTER - PH. 424.253.1600 - SOUTH COAST PLAZA - PH. 714.380.3237 WESTFIELD VALLEY FAIR - PH.408-247.0235 - LAS VEGAS - THE FORUM SHOPS AT CAESARS - PH. 702.932.5757 THE SHOPS AT CRYSTALS - PH. 702.933.7950


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BEN MORRIS British photographer Ben Morris now divides his time mainly between New York, Los Angeles and London. In addition to his lenswork for the fashion feature “Punky Town,” p.108, he has shot for British Vogue and Paper Magazine, as well as Maison Margiela, Mulberry and Prada. MY C SPOTS • For nostalgic purposes, I persuade my team and clients to come to Ye Olde King’s Head pub in Santa Monica • Western Doma Noodles has the best Korean food I’ve had in L.A. • I really love staying at the Sunset Marquis in West Hollywood

MARIKE A native South African, Malibu resident and mom to a 1-year-old, model Marike with Nomad MGMT channeled C’s playful takes on edgy style for this issue’s fashion feature. Having walked runways for Givenchy, Moschino, Azzedine Alaïa and others, she also loves working with such local brands as Secular and Raquel Allegra. MY C SPOTS • Franklin Canyon is a real hidden gem • Malibu Road Beach has a nice mix of families and surfers • Burro in Santa Monica has cute stuff for both adults and kids

ADRIAN GAUT Adrian Gaut, who photographed the Bel Air home of denim doyens Jens and Emma Grede for “Perfect Fit,” p.122, has also shot for Vogue and Architectural Digest. MY C SPOTS • I love bushwacking in Malibu Canyon, looking for secret waterfalls • Being a goofy-foot surfer, Zeros in Malibu holds a special place in my heart as the premier lefthanded point break in L.A. County • Sushi Gen is an old-school joint in Los Angeles’ Little Tokyo, and having visited Japan many, many times, I can say with conviction this is my favorite West Coast Japanese haunt

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KELLY ATTERTON C’s beauty director for the past two years, Kelly Atterton previously worked at Allure, Vogue and Vanity Fair. In addition to contributing to every issue of C, the L.A.-based editor consults with clients and is making progress on a forthcoming teen beauty line that’s been in the works for years. MY C SPOTS • Still Life Ceramics at The Row for a bowl-making class with the hubs • Guerilla Tacos in DTLA for the sweet potato taco • Hourglass in Venice — I’m a recent convert to the results of their Lash Lift

MAGAZ I N EC.COM

WORDS BY MARIE LOOK. MORRIS: CANDY MORRIS. GAUT: ADRIAN GAUT. ATTERTON: ROBIN BLACK STUDIO.

Contributors


David Webb

The Beverly Wilshire - 9500 Wilshire Boulevard • 310-858-8006 • www.davidwebb.com • @davidwebbjewels


South Coast Plaza, California’s favorite shopping experience with 250 extraordinary boutiques, critically acclaimed restaurants, personalized services and amenities and the celebrated Segerstrom Center for the Arts

South Coast Plaza


Saint Laurent ©2019 South Coast Plaza

South Coast Plaza

San Diego FWY (405) at Bristol St., Costa Mesa, CA SOUTHCOASTPLAZA.COM 800.782.8888 @SouthCoastPlaza #SCPStyle


NEWS JUST IN Fresh for fall, SOUTH COAST PLAZA serves up Michelin-starred cuisine, modern art, customization and a clutch of haute new stores From far left: The LOUIS VUITTON atelier. JIMMY CHOO monogrammed Sophia (left) and Romy pumps, prices upon request.

IT’S PERSONAL

Monogrammed Jimmy Choo pumps, custom Dior suits, hand-painted Louis Vuitton luggage — find all the personalized pieces you never knew you needed with the arrival of South Coast Plaza’s new digital guide, By Design. This fall, shoppers can head to the website for a curated directory of 40-plus boutiques that offer customization, made-to-measure and made-to-order pieces. Whether you’re looking for monogrammed handbags, personalized shoes or tailored suits and shirts, add a personal touch to your wardrobe this season at select stores, including Prada, Fendi, Coach and Longchamp. southcoastplaza.com/by-design.

South Coast Plaza NEW ARRIVALS

Just in time for gift-giving season, luxury shopping destination South Coast Plaza has added seven new stores to its esteemed roster. Making its West Coast debut is Australian lifestyle boutique Camilla (camilla.com), proffering bohemian silhouettes inspired by designer Camilla Frank’s global travels, complete with standouts from her Fall 2019 line, including fur-embellished jacquard coats and tassel-trimmed kimonos reminiscent of Parisian cabarets. Beverly Hills luxury brand Eve by Eve’s (evestemptation.com) unveils its exclusive Orange County flagship store with elevated European-made ready-to-wear collections, as well as its in-house beauty line and skincare products.

Popping up now through January is Chalk & Vermilion Fine Art (chalk-vermilion.com) where you’ll find 20th- and 21st-century masterworks from Chagall, Calder and Dalí. Hammitt (hammitt.com), a Hermosa Beach-based handbag boutique stocked with newly released fall favorites like the Gregory crimson leather crossbody, will also have a pop-up through the end of the year. Beloved Australian label Zimmermann (zimmermannwear.com) continues its retail expansion with a posh boutique offering ready-to-wear and swim on the ground floor. Next on the docket: French fashion house Isabel Marant (isabelmarant.com) is slated to open its new outpost late fall.

WORDS BY DANIELLE DIMEGLIO.

From far left: ZIMMERMANN. The wanderlust-inspired interiors at CAMILLA. Inside the posh EVE BY EVE’S boutique.


Inside KNIFE PLEAT. Below: Legumes de Saison made with farmers market vegetables.

OOH LA LA

A play on food and fashion, Knife Pleat is the latest venture from Michelin-starred chef Tony Esnault (previously of Le Louis XV in Monte Carlo) and restaurateur Yassmin Sarmadi. The successful husbandand-wife team, which is also behind Downtown L.A. hot spots Spring and Church & State, serves elevated French fare (think escargot ravioli in mushroom broth and crescent duck) and a bar menu named after SCP’s fashion designers. Christian Dior cocktail, anyone? knifepleat.com.

CAROLINA CAYCEDO works from the Water Portraits series, 2015-2018, on view at OCMAExpand— Santa Ana.

OCMA COMES TO COSTA MESA

South Coast Plaza SHOP ’TIL THE LAST DROP

Travel from Orange County to Napa Valley and back in ultimate style via private jet with the Luxury Package offering three days of exclusive wine tours, VIP shopping experiences, personal stylist, butler service and more. $208,000/8 people.

Left: ANTICA NAPA VALLEY estate, where guests will enjoy gourmet lunch, wine pairings and a grand tour.

C X SOUTH COAST PLAZA

Designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Thom Mayne of L.A.based firm Morphosis Architects, the Orange County Museum of Art is set to break ground this fall at its new Costa Mesa location on the grounds of the Segerstrom Center for the Arts. The striking 52,000-square-foot campus, with a facade composed of metal paneling, glass and exposed concrete to reflect its architectural surrounds, is in and of itself a unique piece of art that will debut in 2021. It will also feature a dramatic lightfilled atrium, rooftop sculpture terrace, cafe and shop. In the meantime, satisfy your art cravings at the temporary space dubbed OCMAExpand — Santa Ana. On view: six new exhibitions focusing on the natural world through the eyes of contemporary Pacific Rim artists. Sept. 21 through March 15. South Coast Plaza Village, 1661 W. Sunflower Ave., Santa Ana, 714-7802130; ocmaexpand.org.


Stella McCartney ©2019 South Coast Plaza

MAKE A STATEMENT THIS SEASON Alexander McQueen · Aquazzura · Balenciaga · Bally · Bottega Veneta · Brunello Cucinelli Bulgari · Burberry · Camilla · Cartier · Celine · Chanel · Chloé · Christian Louboutin Dior · Dolce&Gabbana · Fendi · Gianvito Rossi · Givenchy · Golden Goose · Gucci Harry Winston · Hermès · Loro Piana · Louis Vuitton · Marni · Max Mara · Moncler · Moynat

South Coast Plaza

Oscar de la Renta · Prada · Ralph Lauren · Roger Vivier · Saint Laurent · Salvatore Ferragamo Stella McCartney · The Webster · Valentino · Van Cleef & Arpels · Versace · Zimmermann partial listing


South Coast Plaza

San Diego FWY (405) at Bristol St., Costa Mesa, CA SOUTHCOASTPLAZA.COM 800.782.8888 @SouthCoastPlaza #SCPStyle


Country Mart


S T A T E Statements Opener

M E NICK FOUQUET outside his eponymous Venice shop wearing a hat of his own design.

FULL CIRCLE

CONTRIBUTORS KELLY ATTERTON ANUSH J. BENLIYAN KERSTIN CZARRA MELISSA GOLDSTEIN MARGRIT JACOBSEN KELSEY MCKINNON BROOKE PORTER KATZ ELIZABETH VARNELL S. IRENE VIRBILA

The return of Nick Fouquet to Venice’s Abbot Kinney represents a fresh start for the designer — and the neighborhood

CHRISTINE WHITNEY

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ick Fouquet’s new brick-andmortar on Abbot Kinney is an impressive hat trick — in every sense of the phrase. Three years after the model turned milliner outgrew his first shop on the storied street, he moved operations to a bungalow off Lincoln Boulevard. With over 130,000 followers on Instagram and accounts like Maxfield, Amarees and Net-a-Porter, last year Fouquet’s company grew another 30 percent — “we were bursting at the seams,” he says of the decision to move again. “Venice is a very different place now with all those corporate main-core stores, but down on this end [between Washington Boulevard and Venice Boulevard] we still have the mechanics, welders and woodworkers,” he says of the location on a quiet block beyond the main drag. “It’s kind of like the OG Abbot Kinney.”

“I pride myself Statements on these hats being wearable pieces of art” Inside the minimalist, gallery-like boutique, the seasonal, ready-to-wear collection rests on sculptural custom wood pegs. “I pride myself on these hats being wearable pieces of art,” Fouquet says. T-shirts and pins feature the company’s matchstick logo, inspired by Fouquet’s distressing technique, which involves lighting felts to add patina. There’s a vintage barber chair where custom clients (the likes of which include Diane Keaton, Pharrell Williams, Madonna, Jessica Hart and Cara Delevingne, who wore a bespoke top hat to the wedding of Princess Eugenie and Jack Brooksbank) are measured and fitted. And behind the shop is the

bustling production studio where each piece is made by hand using sustainably harvested beaver fur felt. Fouquet, who commutes from his Buckminster Fuller-inspired geodesic dome home in Topanga Canyon, says hats will always be the backbone of the business, but that he is also working on other accessories: backgammon boards, fanny packs, belts, wallets, silk scarves and bags. “We are just constantly creating. It’s hard to reinvent the wheel, but every time I feel like we come up with something unique with a specific point of view.” 2300 Abbot Kinney Blvd., 310-310-2315; nickfouquet.com. •

“You have to die a few times before you can really live.”

CALIFORNIA credit info goes here in GUCCI goes here goes here LOS ANGELES credit info goes here cin GUCCI goes for redit credit info goes here LOS ANGELES goes credit info here in GUCCI here it info goes LOS ANGELES info goes here credit in for redit credit info goes

From top: Fouquet sits in front of a wall of artfully curated straw (from $725) and felt hats (from $1,225) from his latest collection. The loft-like space features furniture from STAHL + BAND. Colorful unisex Heritage T-shirts, $125/each.

Words by KELSEY McKINNON Photography by MARK GRIFFIN CHAMPION 62

MAGAZ I N EC.COM


Tod’s

TODS.COM

Tod’s Beverly Hills - 310.285.0591 • South Coast Plaza - 714.556.0239 • 800.457.TODS


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Traditional tartans and cozy knits make for a modern take on rural chic

MODEL: PIPER BADARACCO AT FREEDOM MODELS. HAIR BY CHRISTIAN MARC AT FORWARD ARTISTS USING LEONOR GREYL. MAKEUP BY JENNA ANTON AT FORWARD ARTISTS USING ALL GREEN BEAUTY. PRODUCTION: CAMP PRODUCTIONS. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.145.

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Clockwise from top left: SALVATORE FERRAGAMO coat, $4,300, and bag, $1,990. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI coat, $21,500, sweater, $7,350, and pants, $1,645, and STUART WEITZMAN boots, $695. TOD’S jacket, $4,625, turtleneck, $1,145, and pants, $3,175. ETRO sweater, $3,880, and JIMMY CHOO bag, $1,495. ALTUZARRA sweater, $2,095, and OSCAR DE LA RENTA scarf, $290. COACH coat, $795, pants, $350, bags, from $395, and boots, $495. SANDRO top, $595, and top (around waist), $430, and MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION pants, $890, and hat, stylist’s own.

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Photography by MARK GRIFFIN CHAMPION Styling by ALISON EDMOND 64

MAGAZ I N EC.COM


Marco Bicego

NEIMAN MARCUS, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE & YOUR NEAREST FINE JEWELER US.MARCOBICEGO.COM


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DOGPOUND in West Hollywood.

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T A T E From far left: Emeraldhued Moroccan tiling in a guest bathroom at SOHO WAREHOUSE. The rooftop indoor bar area overlooks the pool deck . Sweeping views of Downtown L.A. from the rooftop terrace.

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DOWNTOWN FUNK Ever wish you could just live at your favorite private club? You can now enjoy the benefits for a day or two at the recently opened Soho Warehouse in Downtown Los Angeles. It’s the city’s third Soho House outpost — and the only one on the West Coast to offer hotel accommodations. Set inside a 1916 industrial building that once housed storage facilities for various businesses, including a paper manufactory, liquor distillery and tire distributor, the 48-room property comprises more than a whopping 110,000 square feet. And overnight guests will have access to it all: members-only events, a twostory Soho Active gym, and a rooftop pool and bar decorated with an expansive mural by L.A.-based artist Paul Davies — just one example of their commitment to embracing the local art community. Rooms from $190/night. 1000 S. Santa Fe Ave., L.A., 213-2051000; sohowarehouse.com. B.P.K..

Statements CONSCIOUS COUPLING

NARA COLLECTIVE co-founders ASHLEY EDES and SABRINA Y. SMITH-MORGAN.

It was following a Vipassana retreat (a 10-day silent meditation) and countless backyard strategy sessions that Ashley Edes, who formerly headed experiential marketing at TOMS, and Sabrina Y. Smith-Morgan, the former director of creative content at Interscope Records, hatched the idea for their mindful creative studio, Nara Collective. To date, the Mar Vista-based venture has partnered with purpose-driven companies such as Eaton Workshop, Toms, the Every Woman Biennial, MNLandscape and the justlaunched Gaia Cosmica platform, plus continues to expand its feminist surrealist project, Ars Una/ Art is One, which exhibits artwork focused on the unifying liberation of women and of nature. naracollective.com. K.M.

FIGHTING FIT Try three high-intensity workouts with new California studios. New York sensation DOGPOUND brings its old-school approach to the West Coast. Clients move and lift things in ways that maximize results without dependency on high-tech machines in a sleek space conceptualized by Fabien Baron. 60-minute session pricing upon request. thedogpound.com. LEKFIT, the mini trampoline Bounce studio (and a favorite of actor Busy Phillips) has outgrown its original garage space, upgrading to a 6,000-square-foot, permanent location complete with new trainers and an expanded schedule of classes. $35 per class. lekfit.com. After building his client base at a local yoga studio, Tabu Lanier has ventured out on his own with B.U. FIT, offering classes like BuBurn, a mix of high-intensity power yoga and strength training that has made him the reigning king of San Diego’s fitness scene. $17.50 per class. tabufit.com. K.A.

OPEN DOORS Three new must-shop boutiques MOYNAT PARIS Known for luxe trunks and leather handbags, the French heritage label has debuted its first-ever California outpost at South Coast Plaza. moynat.com.

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CANYON SUPPLY This lifestyle shop in downtown Ojai offers an edit of womenswear, menswear, accessories and home goods. shopcanyonsupply.com.

THE LAST LINE The L.A.-based e-commerce brand will stock its fine jewelry at a pop-up in Westfield Century City Sept. 7 through Oct. 3. thisisthelastline.com. A.J.B.

MAGAZ I N EC.COM

NARA COLLECTIVE FOUNDERS: PETER AUGUSTIN PHOTO. CANYON SUPPLY: MATT + JESS. DOGPOUND: NIGEL BARKER.

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PRODUCTION: CAMP PRODUCTIONS. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.145.

Clockwise from top left: HERMÈS bracelet, $650. OSCAR DE LA RENTA slides, price upon request. AGL shoes, $585. BOTTEGA VENETA belt, $1,400. JIMMY CHOO boots, $1,295. BALMAIN x CARA bag, $2,950.

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Clockwise from above: Artist and designer STERLING RUBY looks on as a model poses in one of his pieces. Jewelry designer GAIA REPOSSI dons Ruby’s all-denim ensemble at Paris Fashion Week . Art meets fashion in flowy, collage-like statement pieces. The vibrant first look from his S.R . STUDIO. LA. CA. runway show at Pitti Uomo in Florence.

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t takes a revolutionary to know one. Gaia Repossi modernized high jewelry and brought Rem Koolhaas interiors to the storied Place Vendôme. So it’s no surprise that the House of Repossi’s artistic director recently stepped out during couture week in fluorescent pink-toned denim workwear from her friend Sterling Ruby’s new fashion collective, which encompasses his main line, S.R. Studio. LA. CA., and three distinct others within that collection: Ed. 50 (limited pieces in quantities of 50), Soto (garments bleached or hand-dyed in the Vernon studio on Soto Street) and Unique (one-off pieces all available through online drops). She suggests the designs from Ruby’s debut S.R. Studio. L.A. CA. men’s and women’s collections — shown in a former Florentine barn at Pitti Uomo this summer — are a riff on the 47-year-old multidisciplinary artist’s personal work uniform. As with his art, he’s letting the line speak for itself, so we’ve enlisted his longtime friend to shed light on the enigmatic creative’s first ready-to-wear collection. GR: “There’s this spark in Sterling’s eyes and an incredible positive energy. I’ve been to his studio many times but fell in love with one of his collages last year in Brussels — where he had shows DRFTRS and WIDW with the Xavier Hufkens gallery. Some of Sterling’s work reminds me of Franz West’s abstract sculptures. There is also an Ed Ruscha feeling to it — though Sterling’s is messier and more plastic. He’s an established artist and this new venture is inspired by urban punk, Americana, Amish quilt-making and even his previous street life as a skateboarder — all with a conceptual touch — it’s a continuation of everything he’s done. He’s already put a foot in fashion through collaborations with Raf [Simons] at Dior, at the designer’s eponymous menswear label, and also at Calvin Klein with the supercool yellow boutique interiors he created. I love that much of the collection looks like a uniform. Maybe his? With the funk acid touch of bright fluorescents that define his palette … who wouldn’t like to wear Sterling Ruby’s uniform? It’s the new definition of streetwear for today. This one is just maybe more elevated, or more fun. It’s like living art on a daily basis.” srstudio.com. •

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STERLING RUBY PORTRAIT: MELANIE SCHIFF. GAIA REPOSSI: PHIL OH/ART PARTNER LICENSING.

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Clockwise from top left: CINDY HSU ZELL triple arch wood tassel, $1,800, cindyzell .com. POKETO Lucite arc bookend set, $88, needsupply.com. SARAH ELLISON Golden collection Gabriella mirror (full), $1,450, hawkinsnewyork .com. DMITRIY & CO. Masson daybed, from $12,000, dmitriyco .com. VACILANDO QUILTING CO. Rimrock quilt, from $300, vacilandoquilting .co. BEND GOODS Wave table, $1,560, bendgoods.com.

Inspiring decor from daybeds to bookends, arches are around for the long run

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BIRD WATCHING Beloved for his bold, eclectic cooking, Jeremy Fox has just opened Birdie G’s — his first-ever project from scratch — under the Rustic Canyon group umbrella. While his early career took him in a fine dining direction (he earned a Michelin star at Napa’s Ubuntu), here he serves a menu reflective of his midwestern childhood and his grandmother’s farmhouse kitchen. “I have no desire to be cool or stylish. I want Birdie G’s to feel like a place that’s been around forever,” Fox says. The 150seat restaurant at Santa Monica’s Bergamot Station arts complex features an open kitchen with a woodfired grill, an intimate bar with booths and an outdoor terrace. True to Fox’s vision, offerings are nostalgic, with a twist: the tongue pot roast he loved as a kid and a relish plate with an irresistible five-onion creme fraiche dip. Fox’s personal favorites: sloppy Joes, matzo ball soup or crisp oval kasha cakes along with a hearty tripe and chickpea stew and a subtle lamb with Persian spices. He’s enlisted ex-wife Deanie Hickox, who worked with him at Manresa, to consult on the desserts, including a dreamy rose petal pie with a pretzel crust. 2421 Michigan Ave., Santa Monica, 310-310-3616; birdiegsla.com. S.I.V.

Created in collaboration with California-born designer Ini Archibong, the women’s timepieces in the new Galop d’Hermès range feature a sleek stirrup silhouette inspired by the house’s equestrian roots. hermes.com.

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From top: HERMÈS Galop d’Hermès in gem-set rose gold with a black alligator strap, $15,400. The watch in rose gold with an Elephant Grey alligator strap, $9,500.

From top: FACEGYM L.A. takes cues from the Noho studio, shown here. Brazilian pink clay training stick , $49.

SKIN TONE Exercise your visage at FaceGym, the Londonbased company making its West Coast debut in L.A. this fall. “Trainers” use their hands for FaceGym’s signature muscle manipulation techniques and employ a variety of high-tech tools depending on the “workout,” including electrical stimulation and radio frequency, to sculpt, tone and reduce puffiness. With their newly launched Training Sticks collection, FaceGym is claiming its place at the forefront of the athletic-beauty category. “Products in the ath-beauty world have yet to produce skincare that is triggered by exercise, until now,” founder Inge Theron says. Applied before physical activity, ingredients in the sticks, such as Brazilian pink clay and spirulina, are motionactivated, triggered by heat and moisture produced by the skin during movement. Translation: The harder you work out, the more effective the products. 8490 Sunset Blvd., L.A.; facegym.com. K.A.

RESCUE ME Following the success of its summer pop-up, Hero Shop has opened a permanent outpost at the Marin Country Mart. Like the San Francisco flagship, the new boutique boasts founder Emily Holt’s edited roster of brands — including Brock Collection and Rosetta Getty — but with a warm-weather twist. Think “more sunglasses and sundresses, fewer cashmere sweaters,” says the former Vogue editor. 2257 Larkspur Landing Cir., Ste. 2205, Larkspur; heroshopsf.com. A.J.B. HERO SHOP’s new Marin Country Mart outpost. MAGAZ I N EC.COM

FACEGYM: YVONNE TNT. BIRDIE: JIM SULLIVAN.

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Clockwise from top left: PAUL SMITH coat, $3,495, MAX MARA top, $595, SPRWMN pants, $1,300, and tie, stylist’s own. ALEXANDER McQUEEN jacket, $3,390, pants, $1,450, choker, $1,450, and boots, $1,290, and JENNIFER FISHER rings, from $150. GIORGIO ARMANI top, $1,895, pants, $1,295, belt, $775, and cross-body bag, $3,795, and JIMMY CHOO boots, $1,495. FENDI dress, $2,590, and top, $890, HEAD ‘N HOME hat, $113, and DAVID YURMAN ring, $5,500, HERMÈS jacket, $4,050, turtleneck, $1,825, and pants, $3,700, JACQUES MARIE MAGE sunglasses, $955, JENNIFER FISHER rings, from $250, and STUART WEITZMAN boots, $725. TOM FORD jacket, $2,950, turtleneck, $1,390, and pants, $1,990, JACQUES MARIE MAGE sunglasses, $895, and JENNIFER FISHER ring, $225.

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MODEL: DANIKA PIENAAR AT FREEDOM MODELS. HAIR BY CHRISTIAN MARC AT FORWARD ARTISTS USING LEONOR GREYL. MAKEUP BY JENNA ANTON AT FORWARD ARTISTS USING ALL GREEN BEAUTY. PRODUCTION: CAMP PRODUCTIONS. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.145.

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What: Fall/Winter 2019 women’s and menswear Where: The historic Wilshire Ebell Theatre in Hancock Park

Where: Universal Studios backlot (the set of Desperate Housewives, Leave it to Beaver)

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Front row: Malin Åkerman, Adam Lambert, Jaime King, Liz Goldwyn, Katherine Ross, Sofia Boutella

Number of looks: 90 Front row: Liberty Ross and Jimmy Iovine, Frances Bean Cobain, Anthony Kiedis, Rowan Blanchard, Kate Beckinsale Most Instagrammable moment: Actor/singer Quincy Brown brought his pet snake, a black-and-white python named Gemini. Soundtrack: An audio clip from the movie Scream to start, followed by iconic horror film music mixed with dark techno by electronic artists including John Carpenter and Broken English Club Beauty details: Bejeweled “blood” wounds, face paint (cat whiskers, Glasgow smiles), dripping black mascara, clown masks, crimped wigs Most OTT look: The grand finale (a corpse bride) featured a frayed ivory bustier gown with singed holes, cutaway sides and a tarantula on the bust, paired with black-and-white skeletal hosiery and a skull necklace After-party: A block party with Carl’s Jr. catering and Heineken beer

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Most Instagrammable moment: Marilyn Manson mingling with his ex Dita Von Teese Soundtrack: Post-punk tracks by the likes of The Raveonettes and The KVB, shuffled with Britney Spears and Mozart Beauty details: Face sequins, pipe-cleaner crowns, faux-mohawk hair and sparkly CNDlacquered nails adorned with crystals and fringe Most OTT look: Look 25, a vintage Rudi Gernreich dress adorned with custom Libertine patches depicting a miscellany of items, from eyes to cigarette cases After-party: Cocktails and avocado toast in the courtyard with a performance by Ariel Beesley

MOSCHINO PARTY SHOTS: DONATO SARDELLA. LIBERTINE: ALEXANDRE JARAS.

Clockwise from above: GABRIEL GLENN, PARIS JACKSON, KATE BECKINSALE, ELI ROTH and PAULA PATTON. The first look in the MOSCHINO show. Moschino Resort 2020. LIBERTINE look 25. MALIN ÅKERMAN, designer JOHNSON HARTIG and FERGIE. LINDSAY USICH and MARILYN MANSON. Libertine Fall/Winter 2019. Designer JEREMY SCOTT and ROWAN BLANCHARD.

Inspiration: Spooky characters (mummies, spiders, skeletons, etc.) paraded through an eerie, fog-filled cul-de-sac for a sinister trick-or-treat

Inspiration: 17th-century Dutch still-life paintings, Japanese wood blocks and 19th-century English botanicals


Westfield Topange

EXPERIENCE TRUE DINING IL FORNAIO | JOEY WOODLAND HILLS LARSEN’S STEAKHOUSE | SUSHI KATSU-YA

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Statements MAKING A STATEMENT How California’s fashion brands are setting the standard for sustainability

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hile some in the White House may try to deny it, the majority of Californians consider climate change to be a real threat, and that includes its homegrown fashion businesses. Reports of the 8 million metric tons of new plastic that enter the world’s oceans each year, coupled with China’s decision to close its doors to California’s recycling waste, don’t bode well for our state, let alone our planet. And as much as we love fashion, we’re all

too aware that this industry takes a heavy toll on the environment. Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world and despite our best efforts, a whopping 85 percent of donated clothing ends up in dumps or floods markets in developing countries. “The fashion industry has the same level of emissions as the continent of Europe,” says Allbirds co-founder Tim Brown, who pledged to make his San Francisco-based sneaker brand carbon-neutral by this year. Brown is not alone in tackling the climate crisis head on. A collection of California startups are following suit, beginning with their relationship with plastic. San Francisco footwear company Rothy’s creates its machine-washable shoes out of recycled materials, including plastic bottles (to date, it has repurposed 25 million of them). As creative director Erin Lowenberg explains, their mission is “not building a brand and then fi nding a way to use recycled products, but building a company and ethos that started with literally ‘less is more.’”

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Everlane, one of NorCal’s fastest-growing clothing brands, has vowed to eliminate virgin plastic (which can take up to 1,000 years to decompose) from its supply chain by 2021. It has also introduced ReNew, a collection comprising puffer jackets, parkas and fleeces made from postconsumer recycled plastic bottles. “Plastic is killing the world. It’s also a big energy sucker,” says Everlane’s head of apparel Kimberley Smith. “We can help by not making any new virgin material, and [stop further] depleting our resources. This is really our first stance in doing that.” Making your business “circular” is one of the latest buzz words. But don’t think of it as some ephemeral fad. Fashion industry veteran Kristy Caylor, best known for having founded the eco-high-fashion brand Maiyet, was inspired to start her “circular” L.A.-based organiccotton T-shirt brand For Days after the experience of moving into a new home. “I did a classic purge and I was very conscious of where my products went; I sold things to The RealReal (the $2.4 billion Californiabased luxury consignment site which went public this year) and Buffalo Exchange and really tried to prioritize reuse. But then I was still left with a pile of stained T-shirts, single socks and stretched-out pajamas,” Caylor says. “Wouldn’t it be great if these items, one, were high-quality, but, also, if I knew something positive was being done as they left my life?” The business is a membership service that invites customers to send back their tees once they’ve bitten the dust (which are then upcycled), in exchange for new ones. San Francisco’s Marine Layer has a similar program with its Re-Spun collection. It promises 100-percent-recycled tees and has committed to a process using no added dyes or even water in their manufacturing. (It also offers a $5 store credit for unwanted cotton T-shirts.) Water conservation is a particularly hot topic in drought-prone California. Levi’s introduced its WaterLess collection back in 2011 and calculates that it has saved more than 3 billion liters over the past eight years with a production cycle that uses up to 96 percent less water. “We recognize there is real urgency around our water footprint,” says Paul Dillinger, VP of global product innovation. Levi’s uses proprietary technology which it has shared with other brands. “We took all of this information and made it open-source and offered it to all of our competitors on the premise that if you figure out a way to save water and you don’t tell people about it, you’re kind of a jerk,” Dillinger says. Levi’s is also focused on modifying user behavior to reduce water use after jeans have left the factory. “All of our garments have something called a Care Tag for the Planet, which is a label that suggests that you wash your jeans infrequently, wash them on cold, and you hang them to dry,” Dillinger says. The innovation doesn’t stop at improved

technologies around recycling and water reduction. The search for alternative, plant-based materials to replace water-dependent ones has also borne fruit. The aforementioned Allbirds, known for its keenly priced, uber-comfy sneakers which are popular in Silicon Valley, makes its uppers out of sustainably sourced New Zealand merino wool and Forest Stewardship Council-certified South African eucalyptus — not standard fare in a category that revolves around leather (the treatment of which creates some of fashion’s most harmful pollutants), rubbers and plastics. It has also developed a sustainable new material for soles called SweetFoam made from sugarcane, which is carbonnegative in its raw form. Like Levi’s, it is open-source, so competitors are able to access the technical knowhow. (To date, over 100 companies have made inquiries about how to use it.) Tencel, a fabric made of recycled tree pulp, is one of Los Angeles-based designer Shaina Mote’s favored materials for her dresses and jumpsuits and is made using a closed-loop water system. “Fabric development with sustainable materials isn’t that progressive,”

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Mote says. “So I’ve had to get outside of the box here and there.” Rothy’s, meanwhile, is in the process of experimenting with a sustainable new algae-based foam for its insoles. To a large extent, Ventura-based Patagonia, which has championed sustainability since its founding in 1973 and introduced organic cotton back in 1996, has set the standard and remains steadfastly committed to the cause. The company recently partnered with a fishing village in South America to dredge discarded fishing nets from the local shores and turn them into fabrics. Beyond that, products such as the Frozen Range jacket are made of 100-percent-recycledpolyester Gore-Tex. The brand’s updated mission statement has shifted the focus from “making the best products and causing no unnecessary harm,” to “using the business to save our home planet,” says Helena Barbour, VP of global sportswear. In other words: “What can we do that really causes good?” she adds. Now there’s a trend we’d love to go global. •

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Clockwise from top left: A vignette in the DÔEN store at the Brentwood Country Mart. MARGARET KLEVELAND (left) and KATHERINE KLEVELAND. A look from the Fall 2019 collection, shot at Château de Gudanes in the south of France.

Sisters Margaret and Katherine Kleveland of North Hollywood-based fashion label Dôen are opening the barn doors to their first permanent brick-and-mortar for their ethereal prairie prints at the Brentwood Country Mart. It’s a fitting home for their feminine bohemian aesthetic, influenced by their coastal childhoods in Santa Barbara — surrounded by orange blossoms and old oaks — and now beloved by a cult-like following of women with that same sense of nostalgic style. The collectively owned, women-run direct-to-consumer label tapped L.A. design team Nickey Kehoe for the interiors, which are illuminated with scalloped-edge sconces and raffia pendants and set with reclaimed wood tables, antique cabinets and a kid’s corner replete with sisal baskets filled with wooden toys. Dôen’s “fewer, better things” mantra manifests in natural fabrics draped into vintage-inspired smock dresses, skirts, trousers, chunky sweaters, shoes and now coats — a new addition to the 3-year-old line that the designers worked to perfect. Margaret explains the collective’s slow fashion embrace: “We choose to develop our own fabrics, not only to get the exact look and feel for the design, but also to be able to work with and support factories and processes we can be proud of.” 225 26th St., Ste. 4, Santa Monica, 818-2064471; shopdoen.com. E.V.

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A decade ago, Fendi’s iconic Peekaboo handbag made its first appearance on the Spring 2009 runway at Milan Fashion Week, instantly establishing its status as the new “it” bag. Still coveted by style savants the world over — among them Meghan Markle, Amal Clooney and Naomi Campbell — the collectible classic is entering a new chapter of its evolution with a selection of strategic updates. The list of modernizations includes a new hinge construction that allows the trademark pouch opening to follow the natural shape of the bag; fresh materials such as a perforated calf leather and velvety nubuck-finished exotic skins; and a debut extra-light unstructured edition. 201 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 31-0623-3420; 195 Grant Ave., S.F., 415820-2090; fendi.com. A.J.B.

FENDI Peekaboo handbag in vintage leather, $5,600.

BON APPÉTIT Three new eateries to book now MERCI MONTECITO Pastry chef Elizabeth Colling, an alum of Spago Beverly Hills, serves artisanal French fare at her new cafe. mercimontecito.com.

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ANTICO, LOS ANGELES Chad Colby’s rustic Italian eatery turns out homemade pastas, grilled meats and Puglian dishes with a distinctive wine list. antico-la.com.

SELBY’S, ATHERTON Power lunch with tech titans over old-school dishes like porterhouse steak and don’t miss the martini cart. selbysrestaurant.com. K.C.

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PORTRAIT AND INTERIOR: NICKI SEBASTIAN. CAMPAIGN: HILARY WALSH. MERCI: STUDIO ARNA. ANTICO: NANCY NEIL. SELBY’S: ED ANDERSON.

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Clockwise from far left: THE GUILD HOTEL.The richly hued reception area. The ballroom is a former basketball court.

GUILD: DYLAN + JENI. ICES: GIOVANNI DUCA. GORDON: KIM BUTAN/CLOTH AND STONE PHOTOGRAPHY.

CHECK YOU OUT In Downtown San Diego, steps away from the Gaslamp Quarter, The Guild Hotel opened in a former Army-Navy YMCA from the 1920s. The Italian Renaissance-style exterior was meticulously restored, and inside, the sleek lobby bar is a vision of plush, jewel-toned seating and marbletopped tables. The 162 guest rooms are equally stylish, including the two-bedroom penthouse Heritage Suite with a private roof deck. And brides-to-be, take note: the old basketball court is now maybe the most un-hotel hotel ballroom we’ve seen with original blond wood floors, simple globe pendant lights and white brick walls. Rooms from $250. 500 W. Broadway, San Diego, 619-795-6000; theguildhotel.com. B.P.K. From left: A Heritage by ARIEL GORDON Victorian seed pearl locket and midcentury diamond Alpaca charm, prices upon request. The designer.

A double-exposure photo of singersongwriter LIA ICES in Sonoma.

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For the last 10 years, Bay Area-based fine jeweler Ariel Gordon Maffei has designed delicate pieces (hand-engraved signet rings, conflict-free birthstone necklaces) with the intent of creating modern family heirlooms, all crafted at her Downtown Los Angeles studio. To fete her eponymous brand’s milestone, she has debuted Heritage by Ariel Gordon, a collection comprising over 200 vintage pieces she personally sourced from historic local estates, forgotten Hollywood costume departments and flea markets. Among the trove of finds: late-Victorian buckle rings, midcentury zodiac and initial charms, turn-of-the-century watch chains and more. arielgordonjewelry.com. A.J.B.

THE VOICE For Sonoma-based singer Lia Ices, motherhood has been a boundless source of creative energy. Last year, the songstress and her husband, Andrew Mariani (who owns Scribe winery), launched Una Lou, a rosé named after their newborn daughter. This past summer, Ices rereleased her first album, the ballad-heavy Necima, under her own label, Natural Music, along with a new dreamily melodic single, “Waves 2,” all while gearing up for a fall tour across California to debut material from a forthcoming 2020 album. “I love the magic of a live performance and giving the audience as much of myself as possible,” she says. “It’s like a gift.” Sept. 4, The Chapel, S.F. Sept. 6, Moroccan Lounge, L.A. Sept. 20, Big Sur Health Benefit Concert, Big Sur. liaices.com. K.M.

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Clockwise from top left: BULGARI Gelati ring, $2,200. DAVID WEBB Stone Knot necklace, $84,000. GRAFF multishaped bracelet, price upon request. POMELLATO Sabbia earrings, $15,600. PIAGET Endless Run ring, price upon request.VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Perlée Couleurs pendant, $21,700. TIFFANY & CO. Tiffany T bracelet, $2,600. CARTIER Les Galaxies de Cartier ring, price upon request. MARCO BICEGO Lucia earrings, $10,410.

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Actor ELIZABETH DEBICKI, wearing MAX MARA, is the recipient of this year’s Women in Film Max Mara Face of the Future Award.

CHANGE MAKERS For Max Mara, a strong message is best delivered in style

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t’s very powerful to be in a room with women like this,” actor Elizabeth Debicki says of those assembled by Max Mara at the Chateau Marmont on the eve of Women in Film’s annual gala, a star-studded summer soiree at the Beverly Hilton to celebrate women who are positively changing the entertainment industry. The 29-year-old — who is this year’s recipient of the Women in Film Max Mara Face of the Future Award — selected a suffragette-white pantsuit from the Italian fashion house that seemed to speak to her support of the nonprofit’s ongoing push for gender equality. The Italian fashion house also recently made headlines with a vibrant

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outerwear archival piece — aptly named the Fire Coat — that Nancy Pelosi donned for a particularly consequential Oval Office visit. Clearly, influential figures are partial to the brand when delivering critical messages. Debicki, known for onscreen portrayals of such unapologetic trailblazers as Jordan Baker (The Great Gatsby) and soon Virginia Woolf (this fall’s Vita & Virginia), is intimately familiar with the power of fashion. It was her aforementioned turn in Gatsby, and her collaboration with the film’s Academy Award-winning costume designer Catherine Martin, that she cites as helping her to feel fully confident in her 6-foot-plus frame. Offscreen, Debicki supports Women in Film’s drive for pay parity and joined the cast and crew from Vita & Virginia for a viral group photo in support of the campaign to repeal Ireland’s eighth amendment, which opposes abortion under nearly all circumstances. Max Mara has a history of creating polished pieces for strong women. Gallerist Holly Solomon, the late Vogue Italia editor Franca Sozzani, and former French Vogue editor and stylist Carine Roitfeld have all donated favored designs to the label’s archive. Maria Giulia Maramotti,

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Inside the San Rafael home of prop stylist Kendra Smoot, as seen in TRAVEL HOME: DESIGN WITH A GLOBAL SPIRIT.

“Debicki is not scared of being herself” MARIA GIULIA

ELIZABETH DEBICKI AND MARIA GIULIA MARAMOTTI: FRAZER HARRISON/GETTY IMAGES FOR MAX MARA. RUNWAY: ALESSANDRO GAROFALO. TRAVEL HOME: PEGGY WONG. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.145.

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granddaughter of the house’s founder, confirms the label’s history of creating ready-to-wear fit for a fight. In Debicki, she sees a woman who “is not scared of being herself.” It comes as no surprise that the house’s latest collection is awash in boss tailoring, including sharply cut coats with strong shoulders. Creative director Ian Griffiths is also reissuing the 2011 design Pelosi plucked from her closet. Maramotti says, “[The brand] is about women feeling good in what they are wearing, finding strength and using their clothing to send a message.” For Griffiths, Debicki personifies the spirit of the fall collection. “She has the quiet assurance of someone who knows that when she speaks, she’s going to be heard.” us.maxmara.com. E.V.

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From top: MARIA GIULIA MARAMOTTI and Debicki. The Fire Coat, made famous by Nancy Pelosi, is being reissued by the label for the fall collection. Max Mara Fall/Winter 2019.

San Francisco-based interior designer and Sacramento Street blogger Caitlin Flemming teamed with her mother, Julie Goebel, founder emeritus of Travelers Conservation Foundation (whose mission is to protect natural, cultural and historical sites around the world) for the new sojourninducing interiors book Travel Home: Design With a Global Spirit (Abrams, $40). Offering a peek inside the spaces of more than 20 renowned decorators, including Carolina Irving, John Robshaw and Nate Berkus and Jeremiah Brent, the book also touches on the aesthetes’ favorite international itineraries and discoveries. M.G.

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1. DOLCE & GABBANA woven bag, $4,145. 2. BALLY Kyrah bag, $1,695. 3. LES PETITS JOUEURS Lulu bag, $556. 4. DIOR Lady Dior bag, $6,000.

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Have fun with fall’s flirty feathers and flounces MODEL: EMIKO HERBERT AT NEXT MANAGEMENT. HAIR BY CHRISTIAN MARC AT FORWARD ARTISTS USING LEONOR GREYL. MAKEUP BY JENNA ANTON AT FORWARD ARTISTS USING ALL GREEN BEAUTY. PRODUCTION: CAMP PRODUCTIONS. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.145.

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Clockwise from top: RED VALENTINO dress, $1,570, POLLY WALES ring, $2,420, and RENE CAOVILLA heels, $1,260. MAJE skirt (worn as a dress), $395, POLLY WALES ring, $3,630, MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION bag, $1,550, and heels, $895. OSCAR DE LA RENTA gown, $22,290, ring, $220, and bag, $2,390, TABITHA SIMMONS flats, $695, and ribbon, stylist’s own. MIU MIU dress, $2,510, shorts, $790, and socks, price upon request, and bralette, stylist’s own. CHANEL dress, price upon request, OSCAR DE LA RENTA earrings, $170, DOLCE & GABBANA clutch, $3,845, and AGL heels, $555. GIVENCHY dress, $4,595, ANDREA FOHRMAN earrings, $8,600, GLOMESH clutch, $429, and TABITHA SIMMONS heels, $895.

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FALL FASHION Feature Opener

GUY AROCH. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.145.

CAROLINA HERRERA dress, $3,990, and EMMANUEL TARPIN earrings, $39,000.

SARAH PAULSON’S BIG MOMENT SAINT LAURENT COMES TO MALIBU REBELLIOUS STYLE AT UNIVERSAL STUDIOS TAMARA MELLON’S COMEBACK INSIDE THE HOME OF A DENIM POWER COUPLE September 2019 91


In her private and professional lives, Sarah Paulson has never followed a conventional path. The Emmy and Golden Globe winner explains why she prefers the life less ordinary

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RODARTE top and skirt, prices upon request. POMELLATO ring, $12,100. SERGIO ROSSI boots, $1,495.

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“I’ve always been with people who are older. Man or woman. It must be what I gravitate toward. I don’t know why”

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he moment Sarah Paulson heard that her co-star Rihanna was jealous of the striking neon green plasticfringed Prada dress she wore to their Ocean’s 8 premiere last year, she realized she had arrived. “When Rihanna wants your dress, everyone else can take a seat,” jokes Paulson when we meet at West Hollywood’s San Vicente Bungalows. Neon frock or not, it is hard not to notice Paulson these days. After years of slogging away as a jobbing actor, she now finds herself — at age 44 — on the Hollywood A-list, having appeared in a multitude of high-profile movies and television series. (To make things official, in 2017, Time magazine named her one of the 100 most influential people in the world and in 2018 she was ranked one of the best-dressed women in the world by fashion website Net-a-Porter.) Paulson says she has always been drawn to dramatic clothes. “The truth of me is [I love] a sparkle. I had a crown I wore as a child that had rhinestones and sequins all over it and a magic wand: My sister and I would take turns sleeping in them,” she admits as we sit down at the bar inside the exclusive members-only club, where guests have stickers placed over the fronts and backs of their phones to enforce the club’s strict “no photos” policy. Paulson rolls her eyes when she sees my bandaged phone. “Don’t you love it?” she asks dubiously. I tell her that the house rules make me feel as

though I’m back in high school. “That’s exactly what I said,” she exclaims. She immediately conveys she is on your side: There is no celebrity hauteur. She is fresh-faced with a hair-just-washed look wearing a striped ruffled cotton shirt and white voluminous pants with Stan Smith sneakers. Off the red carpet her two go-to designers are Dries Van Noten and Nili Lotan — “I’m all in Nili Lotan today” — and her style icon is, she says, Diane Keaton, who also happens to be a friend. “I’ve been in her closet: I can put on her hats, I can try on her glasses. I like having a fashion idol whose clothes I could actually steal!” She wears no makeup, no jewelry, no nail polish. Her only accessory is her iPhone, with a case imprinted with the words “Judy Fucking Davis.” “I’ve been working with Judy Davis [on the upcoming Netflix series Ratched] — and to me there is maybe no finer actress.” Paulson has just spent a rare night at home with her partner of four years, the 76-yearold actor Holland Taylor (The Practice, Two and a Half Men). “We’re both very busy. … We’re not in the same place a lot. So when we are, it is extraordinarily precious time for us. Sometimes we don’t want to do anything. We don’t leave the house. We don’t want to have dinner with our five other friends who we love and adore. We just want our time. … We’re just holding hands, watching Chernobyl on HBO and sleeping.”

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She knows their relationship is unusual. “It’s a twofold thing: one is that it’s with a woman; the other is it’s with someone significantly older.” But she has spent a lifetime confounding expectations. “I didn’t go to college. I didn’t get married. I didn’t have a family.” Her career upturn has surprised even her and her glee is palpable. “Never in my wildest dreams could I have expected to act with Judy Davis. And I’ve got her email! And I can call her up if I want to! That, to me, is an achievement.” The roles that have propelled her to such a position speak to her versatility. American Horror Story was her big breakthrough: She appeared in the first eight seasons, playing different characters and winning multiple awards. In 12 Years a Slave, she played the cold wife of a brutal slave owner. Then in 2016, she played real-life prosecutor Marcia Clark in American Crime Story: The People v. O.J. Simpson, which earned her an Emmy and a Golden Globe. Last year, she joined the all-female heist movie Ocean’s 8. And this year, she shares the screen with Nicole Kidman in The Goldfinch, playing Xandra, the trashy stepmother who emanates “a strong smell of Juicy Fruit,” as author Donna Tartt memorably describes her in the Pulitzer Prize-winning novel. “She’s like sandpaper,” Paulson adds. Reading the book several years ago, Paulson made a resolution to one day play Xandra. “I said it out loud in my bed, I remember it so

CAROLINA HERRERA dress, $3,990. EMMANUEL TARPIN earrings, $39,000.

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distinctly.” She knew she would have to battle for the part. “You don’t make the jump from that gal who plays Marcia Clark to this Vegas [gal] who probably sells drugs. It couldn’t be more extreme.” Luckily Paulson likes nothing better than to scrap for a role. “I had to audition, which I haven’t done in a while. I got a spray tan. I wore a wig and I brought cigarettes and smoked them. [Before the audition] I spent an hour in my car screaming because her voice is described as raspy.” Would she do anything for a role? “I think I would,” she replies thoughtfully. “I’m about to start something where I’m gonna have to gain a significant amount of weight — 20 pounds. I was talking to an actor I admire greatly the other day, and she was like, ‘I wouldn’t do that, I would just be too worried about my health.’ And I was like, ‘Wow, what does it mean that I would do it?’ I will try to do it with help. I won’t just start visiting Carl’s Jr. every day.” In the meantime, though, she remains particular about her diet, quizzing the waiter about the brunch options. At first she is interested in the omelet, but when he describes the ingredients, she starts shaking her head. “You lost me with squash. You don’t want squash in your eggs, that is strange. But two eggs any way? I get very excited. I would love two eggs, fried over medium plus.” (She also orders an accompanying ginger-turmeric juice that makes her screw up her face in disgust when she tries it. “It’s like taking medicine — awful,” she grimaces, putting it firmly to one side.) Born in Tampa, Fla., Paulson moved at the age of 5 with her mother and sister to New York following her parents’ divorce. She says she always knew she wanted to be an actor, and New York gave her that opportunity. She spent afternoons watching theater in the park and attended the Fiorello H. LaGuardia High School of Music & Art and Performing Arts. After graduating, she flew to Los Angeles to test for the 1995 series American Gothic. She got the role and left for North Carolina to shoot the series. But after it was canceled, instead of returning to New York, she moved to L.A. “My formative years were spent out here.” She misses the “kinetic energy” of New York, but has come to appreciate the beauty of the West Coast. “I feel so lucky to live in California. It’s so unique and special and has so much to offer.” She and Taylor maintain separate places

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of their own. “Gwyneth [Paltrow] and Brad Falchuk are doing it,” she jokes. “I think there comes a point when, especially later in your life, you think, ‘I like my stuff, you like your stuff, your stuff doesn’t go with my stuff, why do we have to get rid of half of it? We can do this in a grown-up way that works for both of us.’” Previously, Paulson was in a relationship with actor Cherry Jones, who played President Allison Taylor in the Fox series 24. She and Paulson were together for five years and Jones was 18 years her senior. “I’ve

always been with people who are older. Man or woman. It must be what I gravitate toward. I don’t know why. But I’ve never met anyone my own age that [made me feel], ‘You are the one,’ or ‘I want to explore this.’ That just hasn’t happened to me.” She was engaged once — to Tracy Letts, an actor and playwright (who is nine years older than Paulson). “I was young — 24. We loved each other, it just didn’t work out. He’s with Carrie Coon and I adore him and her and their child.”

TORY BURCH dress, $898. Opposite: N. 21 BY ALLESANDRO DELL’ ACQUA dress, price upon request. VRAM earrings, $30,220.

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The only difference, she says, about being with someone older is that time is far more treasured. “It puts things into hyperfocus. ... There’s a real gift in it, because the nature of it forces me to see the preciousness of it and not be walking around with this ridiculous notion that we’ve got forever.” On a recent podcast, Taylor was asked if she was concerned about the age difference and replied: “Well, if she dies, she dies.” I repeat this to Paulson and she laughs. “It’s so funny [when she says that]. It’s disarming. But people don’t always get it.” Paulson also has a “complicated” relationship with social media. Although she updates her Instagram regularly and has 2.4 million followers, she finds herself enraged sometimes by comments. “When they attack Holland and say mean, terrible things about her, that makes me shake with rage. I want to reply so badly, and I don’t. … Who knows what it kicks up in them: their own curiosities or maybe they were raised to think [a relationship with a woman] is disgusting. … [I think,] ‘Your ugliness is about you.’ I know why it’s normal and OK for me to love who I love.” Paulson has not ruled out having children: “I’m a bit long in the tooth, [but] I did freeze my eggs years ago. I have no idea how viable they are. I have to look at the choices I’ve made in my life and recognize that [they] have led me down a particular road.” Although she feels that things have improved enormously for women in the acting industry, she is aware that, as an actor in her mid-40s, the clock is ticking loudly. “I feel like I have one leg up and an arm up in a tiny window. The gravitational pull is like a guillotine, but I refuse to let the thing come down on my head.” Even so, she says she feels lucky. “Because Ryan Murphy [co-creator of American Horror Story] is so invested in telling the stories of women who are over 40, I’ve [felt] nothing short of celebrated … and extraordinarily supported in my work environment. I have a man behind me saying, ‘Fly baby, fly.’” She has just wrapped Ratched, another Murphy project, based on the novel One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest. Paulson plays the lead [the notorious Nurse Ratched] and is also an executive producer. She says she would like to produce and direct more — she directed an episode of American Horror Story (“It was overwhelming and thrilling”). But at the end of the day, she affirms, “I really still like to act.” X

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DOLCE & GABBANA dress, price upon request. POMELLATO ring, $23,900. Makeup: DIOR Capture Dreamskin Care & Perfect emulsion, $150, Backstage Face & Body primer, $36, Dior Forever Skin Glow foundation, $52, Diorshow Pump 'n' Volumn HD mascara, $29.50, and Rouge Dior Ultra Care lipstick , $38.

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Hair by GREGORY RUSSELL at The Wall Group using Amika Velveteen Dream. Makeup by ADAM BREUCHAUD at The Wall Group using Dior. Manicure by Tracy Clemens at Opus Beauty using Chanel Le Vernis. Production by CAMP PRODUCTIONS. Location ONE GUN RANCH, MALIBU.

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BOARDWALK

For Saint Laurent’s latest show, the French powerhouse eschewed Paris for the Malibu shore

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The SAINT LAURENT men’s Spring/Summer 2020 runway show, held on the shores of Paradise Cove, Malibu.

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“In L.A. you can feel there’s curiosity, positivity; you can breathe a douceur de vivre” 1, 3, 8, 11, 17: RAINER HOSCH

verybody knows that September is the biggest month of the year in women’s fashion. But for menswear, it is June. This is when the world gets its first taste of the following year’s Spring/Summer men’s collections across four sun-drenched fashion weeks, from New York to Paris via Florence, Milan and London. Many shows, Saint Laurent included, also feature a handful of women’s precollection looks, which offer a glimpse of the trends of tomorrow. For his second traveling menswear show (last year’s was in New York) since he took over from Hedi Slimane (now at the helm of Celine) in 2016, Saint Laurent’s creative director, Anthony Vaccarello, chose Los Angeles to debut his new direction. The Belgian designer shipped the men’s Spring/ Summer 2020 show from the banks of the Seine in Paris to the lapping shores of Malibu’s Paradise Cove. This crescent of sand at the foot of an imposing bluff with a rougharound-the-edges shack of a restaurant that’s been serving seafood towers and watermelon daiquiris since the 1950s was a surprising choice. But in it, he found the right cocktail of gritty charm and chilled-out cool that chimed with the primary inspiration for his collection — Marrakech in its heady heyday. “Los Angeles has that life quality which other cities don’t have — except Paris of course,” he says. “You can feel there’s curiosity, positivity; you can breathe a douceur de vivre [sweetness of life] that I can only compare to Marrakech back in the day.” Moreover, Vaccarello had one of the dreamiest stretches of beach in the state to work with. A simple wall of towering angled mirrors reflected the natural beauty of the illuminated bluffs and the rising tide. As you might expect when a storied brand lands on the West Coast, the oceanfront show was awash with Saint Laurent’s adoring, A-list fans. Campaign face Keanu Reeves and actor Laura Dern as well as singersongwriters Miley Cyrus and King Princess were all in attendance. Models Anja Rubik, Hailey Bieber and Amber Valletta joined François-Henri Pinault, chairman and CEO of Saint Laurent’s parent company, Kering, on the front row next to his wife, actor Salma Hayek. The embroidered caftans, embellished tunics and wafting harem pants on display transported attendees to a time when Yves Saint Laurent himself would seek sanctuary

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The spellbound audience takes in the new collection and Pacific views.

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7. 1. Fresh coconut water. 2. KING PRINCESS. 3. HAILEY BIEBER . 4. AMBER VALLETTA and TOMMY DORFMAN. 5. LAKEITH STANFIELD. 6. Models take a sip. 7. LIAM HEMSWORTH, MILEY CYRUS and ANJA RUBIK . 8. THE BLAZE performs. 9. QU CHUXIAO. 10. DAVID FRIEND, ZOË BLEU SIDEL, LOUIS MARZIN and TUCKER TRIPP. 11. The boardwalkcatwalk. 12. Marzin. 13. GRAY SORRENTI and SIMONA KUST. 14. ALEXANDRA GRANT, KEANU REEVES, SALMA HAYEK and FRANÇOIS-HENRI PINAULT. 15. One of the 82 looks from the show. 16. Guests sipping coconut water. 17. A glimpse backstage. 18. TONY WARD and VINCENT GALLO.

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Feature in the Moroccan souks, delighting in the decadence of his second home. They appeared alongside the skinny jeans, tuxedo jackets, and louche, long neckties that predate Vaccarello but are now recognized as the brand’s house codes. As men’s and womenswear intermingled on the boardwalk-catwalk to the point of being indistinguishable, the designer’s intentions were unveiled — a largely gender-fluid, 82-look collection that is both achingly cool and acutely relevant. Immediately after the show, Vaccarello told members of the press who had jetted in from around the world: “When I do men’s, I think of women’s; and when I do women’s, I think of men’s.” It is no surprise that the designer cites Mick Jagger as his principal muse for the collection. Having been asked to design pieces of the rock deity’s wardrobe for the Rolling Stones’ U.S. No Filter tour, Vaccarello spent time with Sir Mick and was granted access to his extensive clothing archive. Naturally, some of the garments directly inspired looks in the collection. In particular,

“Los Angeles has that life quality which other cities don’t have. I just feel free” ANTH O NY VAC CAR E L LO

the mid-’70s pieces that at the time were dubbed “effeminate” but now would be celebrated as “genderless” inspired him the most. “After meeting Mick Jagger, he showed me his wardrobe, and I was particularly attracted by the details, the colors, the attitude,” Vaccarello says. “Mick is one of the ultimate coolest guys ever. I’ve always been inspired by him and Serge Gainsbourg. They were similar in the way of wearing a tuxedo with nonchalance.” As Paris-based DJs The Blaze performed at the afterparty on the sand, spicy tequila cocktails and Saint Laurent-branded coconuts were passed around — something you could never picture at a haughty fashion party in Paris. But, as we Californians know too well, L.A. has that ability to loosen up even the stiffest collars. When asked how it felt to show in Malibu, Vaccarello concluded: “I just feel free. Free to express myself in the way I want.” •

LEXI BOLING, BINX WALTON, ANTHONY VACCARELLO and MICA ARGAÑARAZ. Opposite: Four looks from the men’s Spring/Summer catwalk .

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Feature Fall’s most rebellious looks get the cinematic drama they deserve — claiming the spotlight at Universal Studios

PUNKY TOWN Photography by BEN MORRIS Creative & Fashion Direction by ALISON EDMOND

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BALENCIAGA coat, $2,990, top, $1,450, and booties, $1,190. JENNIFER FISHER earring, $495 (sold as a pair). HUE tights, $15. Opposite:DIOR jacket, $3,900, tee, $860, skirt, belt, and ring, prices upon request. HOUSE OF EMMANUELE choker, $575.

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SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO dress and cape, prices upon request, and tights, $290. JENNY BIRD earrings, $80. JIMMY CHOO pumps, $595. Ribbon, stylist’s own. Opposite: MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION coat, $3,990, tank top, $590, and pants, $4,990. DIOR earring, price upon request (sold as a pair). HOUSE OF EMMANUELE choker, $575, and cuff, $725.

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VERA WANG shawl, $950, apron, $1,200, and dress, $3,500. HOUSE OF EMMANUELE choker, $250. DANNIJO cuffs, from $195. JIMMY CHOO pumps, $1,895. Opposite: MAX MARA cardigan, $940, and turtleneck , $595. MKITA STUDIO sunglasses, $675. SERGIO ROSSI boots, $1,895.

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PRADA top, $690, dress, $4,390, and boots, price upon request. JENNIFER FISHER earring, $395 (sold as a pair), and rings, from $250. Opposite: CHANEL jacket, price upon request, wool jacket, $6,400, pants, $7,900, and earrings, $1,300. JIMMY CHOO sneakers, $6,500. SPLENDID tee, $48. LILLIAN SHALOM ring, $925.

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MIU MIU coat, $5,950, dress, $3,600, scarf and sandals, prices upon request. DANNIJO earrings, $170. RINALDY YUNARDI gloves, $349. Tights, stylist’s own. Opposite: BOTTEGA VENETA top, $1,320, skirt, $2,150, bag, $2,400, and boots, $1,150. JACQUES MARIE MAGE sunglasses, $495. JENNIFER FISHER earring, $495 (sold as a pair). HUE tights, $15.

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VERSACE jacket, $4,400, sweater, $875, and skirt, $3,675. Opposite: 2 MONCLER 1952 jacket, $3,640, and skirt, $1,315. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI tee, $445, and necklace, price upon request. AGL booties, $500. Tight’s, stylist’s own.

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SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.145.

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LOUIS VUITTON jacket, skirt, belt, and shoes, prices upon request. DANNIJO earrings, $150. Hat and socks, stylist’s own. Opposite: LONGCHAMP coat, $3,010, jacket, $2,500, top, $1,220, and skirt, $2,670. YVY choker, $190, and bracelet, $158. LILLIAN SHALOM ring, $700 (left). JENNIFER FISHER ring, $325. AGL boots, $740.

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Makeup: SERUCELL KFS Cellular Protein Complex serum, $225. IT COSMETICS Bye Bye Lines foundation, $38. JILLIAN DEMPSEY Cheek Tint in Bloom, $28. DIOR Lip Glow, $34, and Diorshow On Stage Liner in pearly turquoise and matte pink, $30.50 each. Model MARIKE LE ROUX at Nomad MGMT. Hair by CHRISTIAN MARC at Forward Artists using Leonor Greyl. Makeup by JO STRETTELL at Tracey Mattingly using It Cosmetics. Manicure by EMI KUDO at Opus Beauty using Chanel Le Vernis. Production by CAMP PRODUCTIONS.

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PERFECT FIT A ’30s-era Bel Air home has just the right look for two titans of the L.A. denim industry

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EMMA GREDE walks through the breezeway, which is shaded by flowering wisteria vines. Emma wears GOOD AMERICAN dress, $165.

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mma and Jens Grede are aware that the story of how they stumbled into their Paul R. Williams-built, Sandy Gallin- and Scott Mitchell-designed Bel Air dream home may make Los Angeles real estate hunters cringe with envy. “I’d been in this house many, many times over the past seven or eight years,” says Jens, who co-founded denim label Frame in 2012 with his longtime collaborator, fellow Swede Erik Torstensson. (The partners also own the London-based marketing and branding company Saturday Group and are co-editors of Industrie magazine.) Jens would stop by to visit the home’s previous owner, fashion mogul Serge Azria, who would take his meetings on a shady back patio, sitting in a wicker chair in front of an outdoor fireplace, where the couple is situated today. A 110-foot-long swimming pool occupied by a pair of pink flamingo floats stretches out behind them. “I would come to ask Serge for advice, and he would sit here, where I’m sitting now, and we would discuss business.” “Then he would always come home to me and tell me about this magical house,” says Emma, who also happens to be a co-founder of a denim

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Above: Emma and her husband, JENS GREDE, were drawn to L.A.’s thriving art scene, and they bought pieces from local contemporary artists, like this work by ALEX ISRAEL, to support it. Opposite: The classic entrance — a signature of architect PAUL R . WILLIAMS — gets a modern, asymmetrical twist with pittosporum in stone planters on one side of the front door and a simple fountain on the other.

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A perfectly restored grand staircase in the foyer needs no adornment. Opposite: Built-in curved shelving houses objets and artifacts, some moved with the couple from London and others acquired with the home.

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Jens wears FRAME jacket, $295, T-shirt, $75, and pants, $195. His own PATEK PHILIPPE watch and SAINT LAURENT boots. Emma wears GOOD AMERICAN top, $169, and pants, $149. JIMMY CHOO heels, $1,050. ANITA KO earrings, from $2,000.

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“We just came here, and I thought, yes, we should do it” EMMA GREDE

Feature brand, Good American, with Khloé Kardashian, and ran a fashion marketing business of her own, ITB Worldwide. At about 12,000 square feet, the ’30s-era gem has seven bedrooms, a library, a media room, a gym, two clubby-feeling built-in bars and impressive mature grounds. It’s just down the street from Hotel Bel Air, and it’s as close to real estate royalty as you can get. “When I saw Serge, he would tell me, ‘You should really move to L.A.,” Jens adds. “I would say, I would live in L.A. if I could live in your house.” “And I would say, ‘Don’t be ridiculous,’” says Emma, with a laugh. Several factors conspired to lure the young family west: Jens and Emma both wanted to be closer to their brands’ headquarters and manufacturing, and Los Angeles was popping up more and more on their cultural radar. And their young children — Grey, 5, and Lola, 3 — were getting to the age when life in an urban city like London can be challenging.

“Ten years ago, when we first used to come here, you really felt locked out if you weren’t part of the entertainment industry,” Emma says. “It didn’t matter if you were in tech, fashion or art — this was a town for entertainment people. That’s really shifted now. A lot of Silicon Valley is moving here, and there’s the art and the music scene. What’s driving culture today is food experience, travel, fitness, health, and L.A. is the capital of lifestyle.” Because being in the right place at the right time is the pair’s M.O., they made the move. At first, they settled into a “lovely rental” in Beverly Hills and were “perfectly happy” with it, Emma says. Then, Azria called. “It was a year ago,” Jens explains. “Serge finished his place in Malibu, and he said, ‘You always loved the house. I think you should live there with Emma and the kids. Why don’t you come out to Malibu and we can discuss it?’ So I went out to Malibu, and a month later we were here.”

“We just came here, and I thought, is it even a question? I mean, yes! Yes, we should do it. This is insane,” Emma adds. “I know, we talk to people who say that they’ve looked at 32 different houses and couldn’t find the right one. We just fell into this one.” They’ve left the furnished house largely untouched, making minor tweaks and bringing in some pieces from their country home in the Cotswolds to create a familiar atmosphere for the children. It’s been a decade since legendary agent turned luxury house flipper Gallin renovated the house with architect Mitchell, but every surface — from the dark, distressed-wood floors to the coffered ceilings in the bedrooms — still emanates a quiet, contemporary luxury. “We’ve started to change certain pieces of furniture in different rooms but very slowly and carefully,” Jens says, pointing out a couple of club chairs that have been reupholstered in sheepskin and some 1960s modern marble end

A view of the back of the house shows that it remains true to its 1930s heritage, even though the footprint has grown.

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Hair and Makeup by Christina Cassell at The Only Agency using Pat Mcgrath Labs. Production by CAMP PRODUCTIONS.

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SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.145.

Clockwise from above: On the lower level, a billiards “pub” room, a glass-encased wine room, a gym and a sunken T V lounge open out onto the yard. A custom outdoor table for 30 was inspired by artist DONALD JUDD. In the dining room, HANS WEGNER chairs surround a table for 12; a painting by ALFRED BOMAN. Opposite: The long, narrow pool — a focal point of the property — was added during Gallin and Mitchell’s renovation, back in 2007.

tables. “You wouldn’t know it unless I told you. I think this house has a spirit and a soul, and we love what Sandy Gallin did. We’re huge fans.” There are two critical new elements that have turned this house into the family’s home. The first is their very contemporary art collection, which includes large-scale pieces from Petra Cortright and Alex Israel and leans heavily on poppy colors, specifically head-turning pink in works by Alex Da Corte, Jon Rafman and Alex Israel. “We really bought art for L.A., because again, Jens was like, ‘If we’re going to live here, we should work with artists who are of this time,’” Emma says. The second addition is the ephemera that comes along with parenting a couple of kids under the age of 6, including miniature cars, stuffed animals and stacks of board books, the likes of which this house hasn’t seen in some time. “You can’t miss that very central play room,” Emma says of the children’s space off the kitchen. “When you’re like Jens and me — we both work very full time — the weekends are our moment to spend together, so we’ve made that space for cooking and dining and playing, and it flows beautifully. And there’s a lot of pink plastic in it. There’s no way to get around it.” “A house is to be lived in,” Jens says. “I never like anything to be too precious. Different parts of the house serve different ideas. Emma feels the same way. If we have a party, we open up the doors of the living room and it’s slightly more formal. But we’ve had our kids’ birthday parties here and pool parties here. It’s made for a lot of people to be here and for entertaining, and we use it well.” Further proof that fate brought the house into the Grede family’s lives arrived when Torstensson and his partner, Net-a-Porter founder Natalie Massenet, sent them a gift from their new vacation home in the Hamptons. “Natalie called and said that they’d found these giant metal letters in their house, SAG, and she was going to send me the G and the A, for my brand, Good American,” Emma says. “Then we found out that the letters [as a set] were Sandy Gallin’s initials.” “Their house was done by Sandy Gallin,” Jens says. “He and [architect] Scott Mitchell did only about five houses that they lived in together. And the crazy thing is that my partner Erik has his last house, and the house they did before that is this one.” “It was completely coincidental,” Emma says. “We think it was meant to be,” Jens adds. X


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SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO dress, $10,500. VHERNIER earrings, $15,400. Hair by SYLVIA WHEELER at Forward Artists using Bumble and Bumble. Makeup by KATE LEE at The Wall Group using Chanel. Manicure by MILLIE MACHADO.

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TAMARA MELLON’S NEXT STEP Feature

The Jimmy Choo co-founder bounced back from bankruptcy to raise $87 million in funding for her eponymous brand. She shares the ups and downs of her L.A. story Words by CHRISTINA BINKLEY Photography by AMANDA DEMME Creative & Fashion Direction by ALISON EDMOND

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LONGCHAMP dress, $2,465. JENNIFER MEYER earrings, $2,850. SYLVIE CORBELIN ring, $4,700.


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“There are no luxury brands that are direct-to-consumer. We’re pioneers in this space”

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ou might not expect Tamara Mellon’s office to stock McCann’s instant oatmeal packs and Sun Chips in the break room. After all, this is the woman who famously launched Jimmy Choo — the brand’s sexy heels being one of the world’s most recognizable symbols of luxury — over two decades ago. But today, her new eponymous label’s headquarters on Beverly Boulevard in Los Angeles reflects a ruthlessly efficient startup culture: There’s a Peloton exercise bike in a corner, and the only private office is occupied by the fourmember customer service team. Mellon’s desk, meanwhile, is smack in the middle of the open-plan layout, surrounded by orderly rows of Eames-style chairs and white tables that the cost-conscious company purchased from Wayfair. The lean office culture is an example of Mellon’s new approach to the luxury business. She recently completed her third round of funding, which raised $50 million — one of the largest funding rounds for a female-founded fashion brand ever, bringing the total raised to $87 million. “To be honest, it was absolutely brutal,” Mellon says, settling into a low white sofa in a meeting room that was likely designed to be the CEO’s office. “Most of the people we were pitching were white middle-aged guys who had no emotional investment in the product.” At 52, Mellon is well on her way to establishing her second powerhouse upmarket footwear label. Her concept is to do what she has done before, but for the modern age: designing impeccably crafted Italian-made shoes and, this time, selling them direct-to-consumer — cutting out the middlemen, the wholesale accounts and the department stores. That also means

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redefining high-end service in ways that can be delivered online — while there won’t be traditional sales associates, there will be a cobbler service to repair shoes for up to two years after purchase. And if you’re looking for something specific, one of the styleand digitally savvy associates in customer service will compile a list of options and share it via email, text, WhatsApp, or Facebook Messenger. There’s even a Slack channel available for customers who want to comment or ask questions. Mellon founded this version of Tamara Mellon in 2016, but it’s actually her second attempt at the label. A more traditional foray launched in 2013 sold wholesale to department stores but left her filing for bankruptcy two years later. Mellon learned the hard way that fewer people are shopping in department stores today — and that conventional wholesale models hamstring labels with markups that lead to high retail prices. When she applied her aspirational designs to the sort of business models being pursued by direct-to-consumer brands such as Allbirds and Rothy’s, business took off, growing 136 percent in 2018 over 2017. “There are no luxury brands that are directto-consumer. We’re pioneers in this space. So maybe we’re a little early,” she says. The brand has one brick-and-mortar store, which opened last year in Palisades Village. For the past eight years, Mellon has been in a relationship with CAA co-founder and former Hollywood mega-agent Michael Ovitz. She has a daughter, Araminta, 17, with the late banking heir Matthew Mellon, and she credits “Minty” with helping her fathom the way young consumers shop and divine the next trend. “If we’re talking consumerism, they don’t discover brands the same way. They discover everything on Instagram.”

Opposite: VALENTINO jumpsuit, $4,980. JENNIFER MEYER earrings, $6,500. JOHN HARDY ring, $7,500. TAMARA MELLON sandals, $450.


Armed with a better understanding of the consumers who are driving fashion’s future, Mellon says she is shooting high for her brand. “We plan on being a billion-dollar company. That’s the vision,” she says coolly. To build it, she also eschewed the typical luxury brand approach, starting with bringing on co-founder and chief executive Jill Layfield, the 44-year-old former chief executive of Backcountry, an online purveyor of outdoor apparel. It’s an unlikely pairing in every way imaginable, beginning with their own shoe preferences. While Mellon can often be found in towering heels, Layfield is more likely to sport a pair of Tevas (though she makes an exception for Tamara Mellon sneakers). Before moving to L.A. in 2016, Layfield lived in Park City, Utah, and wore Patagonia hiking dresses to work. Layfield says she was initially nervous about meeting Mellon. “I’d read a lot about her and thought, ‘Oh my god, she’s a fashion person. What’s she going to be like?’” They met in L.A. after being introduced via a venture capital connection. “From the moment we sat down, she was very glamorous, but she was warm and kind and down-to-earth. I was instantly like, ‘Wait a minute, I think we’re wired alike,’” Layfield remembers. For their new venture, Mellon plumbed her contacts at Italian factories and turned to the same manufacturers as famous luxury brands, but instead of carrying a six-time retail markup, Tamara Mellon footwear prices mainly range from $350 to $995. “We really sit in a sweet spot alone right now. The legacy brands are retail- and wholesaleheavy,” she says. Mellon, who came to fashion via working at magazines rather than design school, is known for her crystal ball, having anticipated trends such as platform ankle boots in the early 2000s. These days, she’s

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doubling down on casual shoes — sneakers and Dr. Martens-style boots. She is also nerding out on data, which is already telling her that people like buckles more than ankle ties, that a 90-millimeter heel is the most popular height, and that discerning customers prefer to shop Monday through Thursday, leaving the weekends for family. In true tech startup fashion, she’s hired supply-chain experts to speed production and build a data-science crew that she expects to soon number 10 analysts and engineers. She plans to use data for product testing, putting new styles on tamaramellon. com, ordering enough supply for three weeks, then replenishing according to how each style sells. Furthermore, Mellon no longer follows the collections-driven model she used at Jimmy Choo, which she co-founded in 1996 and built into a fashion juggernaut. “I don’t design collections anymore,” Mellon says. “We put out new shoes every week.” It’s a significant shift in the long arc of her career. Mellon was born in 1967 to the late Thomas Yeardye, an actor and stuntman who co-founded the Vidal Sassoon chain, and Ann Davis, a former Chanel model in the 1960s. They moved to L.A. when she was in elementary school, and she had been living between London and New York for most of her life before settling back in L.A. While working at British Vogue in her early 20s, Mellon became a face on the London scene — a reputation that garnered many a U.K. tabloid headline. In a later book, In My Shoes: A Memoir, she wrote about drinking and snorting cocaine until 1998, when she wound up in a Narcotics Anonymous meeting in which she met her husbandto-be, Matthew Mellon. While working as an editor, she also discovered that well-heeled women in

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London, like Princess Diana, were buying shoes from a Malaysian cobbler in a tiny shop in the city’s East End. His name was Jimmy Choo. Mellon received a loan from her father and partnered with the cobbler to launch the shoe brand, which became a fixture, along with Manolo Blahniks, on Sex and the City. She sold a majority stake in the company in 2011 to Labelux (Jimmy Choo is now owned by Capri Holdings, which also owns Michael Kors and Versace). Though they remained friends, in 2005 she divorced Matthew Mellon, who tragically died last year on a trip to a drug rehabilitation center in Mexico. After a high-profile relationship with the actor Christian Slater ended about 10 years ago, Mellon met Ovitz, 20 years her senior, whom she calls her “life partner.” “It’s very hard at this age. ‘Boyfriend’ sounds ridiculous,” she says. “‘Fiance’ says you’re going to get married.” She lives with Ovitz and Minty — juggling her design world with mothering a teenager, who has a busy schedule and social media interests of her own. Minty has roughly 2,700 followers on Instagram and has been receiving gifts from brands hoping she’ll post about them, but she has shown no interest in becoming an influencer. “That’s her call. Totally,” Mellon says. “She’s much more interested in business — in being on the other side of the table. More the CEO than the designer.” Mellon also has her eyes on a shifting future. She has put her name on this company, which means that if she sells it, as she did Jimmy Choo, she would also be selling the rights to the moniker. But the prospect doesn’t scare her. “I’m OK with it,” Mellon says, looking sanguine. “In 10 years time, I’ll be very happy for succession plans.” •

SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.145.

“We plan on being a billion-dollar company. That’s the vision”


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ETRO dress, $7,200. JOHN HARDY earrings, $1,495. TAMARA MELLON boots, $825. Hair by CHRISTIAN MARC at Forward Artists using Leonor Greyl. Make up by SILVER BRAMHAM at Art Department using Make Up For Ever. Manicure by EMI KUDO at Opus Beauty using Chanel Le Vernis. Production by CAMP PRODUCTIONS.


CALIFORNIA. CURATED. CALIFORNIA. CURATED.

SHOP STATE OF MIND’S CROSS-GENRE DESIGNERS, IN A CLASS ALL THEIR OWN

SHIVA ROSE

THUNDERWING

ELISABETH WEINSTOCK

Rose face oil, $105

Good Vibes stationery, $68

State of Mind

Sydney everyday tote in natural glazed whipsnake, $2,047

LISA EISNER

MADE BY YOKE

HOUSE OF KINGA

Cali cuff in black jade, $3,450

Venice balance perfume oil, $83

Signature candle, $240

California is more than just a place, it’s an attitude. So we set up STATE OF MIND to help you capture its essence. A one-stop shop for the finest made-in-California clothing, accessories, homewares and wellness products, it has all the things we want in our own homes, and our closets, right now.

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D I MYTH BUSTING IN MYKONOS

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There’s a laid-back side to the legendary party island, you just need to know where to find it

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The infinity pool of THE WILD HOTEL BY INTERNI, Mykonos.

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f you’re worried Mykonos is not for you — with the daily sunset dance parties, 11 p.m. dinner reservations and a disproportionately low ratio of taxis to people — think again. Granted, you could never set foot in the sea, be out from dusk ’til dawn and spend all day in bed. But choose the right base and your days can be as indulgent as your nights are decadent. One such place is The Wild Hotel by Interni (thewildhotel.com). It opened in May of this year on the island’s peaceful westside. Perched way up

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Clockwise from above: The terrace of FTELIA BEACH CLUB. The private beach of The Wild Hotel by Interni on the island’s peaceful westside. The backstreets of Chora, Mykonos. The entrance to Ftelia Beach Club. Catch of the day at INTERNI garden restaurant. Interni in the heart of Mykonos town.

DINING TERRACE: CHRISTOPHER KENNEDY. BEACH: YIORGOS KORDAKIS. WHITE BUILDINGS: RICARDO GOMEZ ANGEL/UNSPLASH. FTELIA: ROMAIN LAPRAIDE. INTERNI EXTERIOR AND FOOD: MARGARITA NIKITAKI. WINDMILL: JASON BLACKEYE/UNSPLASH.

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With cubist design cues, whitewashed walls and terra-cotta umbrellas, it’s got Instagram written all over it. The vibe, however, is distinctly chicer than bloggers looking for likes — think the Athens “in” crowd kicking back over chilled rosé as kite surfers glide past. Breezy Ftelia Bay is also home to the hectic-by-day Alemagou beach club (alemagou.gr), albeit the place to be on a Friday evening. Head over at sunset — after feasting on grilled cuttlefish and

on a bluff, the 40 rooms and suites arc their way around a crescent-shaped infinity pool. Whether you’re gorging on Greek yogurt and wild honey at the breakfast buffet or swinging a kettle bell at the outdoor gym, you are never without a view of the Aegean Sea. Indeed, by the time you order your first cocktail, the uninhabited island of Nisída Tragonísi on the horizon starts to float in the midday haze. With its own private beach 100 feet below, replete with bedside service, it’s very easy to never leave. But leave you must — to Ftelia (fteliabeachclub.com), one of two sister properties.

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From left: ETRO x LUISA WORLD straw hat, $312, and silk kimonos, $3,500 each.

March 2019

MYKONOS MUST-SEES

ceviche from Ftelia’s Michelin-starred chef Nikos Fotiadis — to catch one of Berlin’s top DJs play deep house into the night. Not to be missed is the hospitality group’s original property, Interni (internirestaurant.com) which sees queues of glamorous Greeks snaking out the door every night. Not only is it a sanctuary in the middle of the Mykonos town (set in a garden in which you dine under pine trees and pergolas of bougainvillea), it has unparalleled cuisine, with highlights including octopus carpaccio and lobster risotto. Nothing sets you up better for a night exploring the back-alley bars and hidden clubs of the sprawling capital, such as Jackie O’ and Cavo Paradiso. What time is last call? That’s entirely up to you. •

Think the Athens “in” crowd kicking back Travel over chilled rosé as kite surfers glide past

ET TU, ETRO? The Italian brand known for its summer soirée– appropriate wares has partnered with Luisa World boutique at Nammos Village on a limitededition capsule collection which pays tribute to The Cyclades. The four silk kimonos in Etro’s trademark paisley prints, a straw hat and a bag embroidered with the words “Etro Beach” are exclusively available through the Luisa World website. luisaworld.com. ON SACRED GROUND Sculptor Antony Gormley has installed 29 cast-iron body forms on the neighboring island of Delos, the first new artworks in 5,000 years to arrive on the sacred island largely acknowledged as the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis. Admission is free. The Wild Hotel by Interni can arrange a day’s boat trip for approximately $1,450. antonygormley.com. SOHO HOUSE TAKES SCORPIOS The world’s foremost members-only club network has snapped up Scorpios, the beach club on the island’s enviable southern tip, which evokes the mood of Mykonos in its 1960s heyday. Fans of the venue’s famous Sneaky Sunday sunset parties will be pleased to hear that outposts of the club will soon be popping up in Tulum and Miami. scorpiosmykonos.com.

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TRUE BLOOD

The key to eternal youth may be running through your veins

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SUSANNE SPIEL/TRUNK ARCHIVE

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latelet-rich plasma therapy, also called PRP — popularized in the past decade by star athletes like Kobe Bryant to accelerate healing — is on the radar these days for its ever-expanding cosmetic applications, including the influencer favorite (and highly controversial) “vampire facial.” So what is PRP exactly? “It’s a concentration of a patient’s own platelets, separated from their blood, used on the skin, amplifying natural growth factors that rejuvenate and heal tissue,” explains Dr. Ronald Moy, renowned Beverly Hill-based dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon. Since this procedure is highly customized with your own


“PRP has an overwhelming upside and little to no downside” D R . I LY A R E Y T E R

blood, only the donor can safely benefit from treatment. After consulting with your physician, the first step in a PRP treatment is having your blood drawn. It’s placed into a centrifuge device and spun at intensely high speeds, causing the blood to separate into layers. The red blood cells are forced to the bottom of the vial, white blood cells and platelet-rich plasma settle in a thin middle layer, and the platelet-poor plasma rises to the top. The PRP (the precious middle layer) is then injected into injured areas or applied to skin that has been treated with a laser or microneedling. While the term “vampire facial” refers to PRP application on the skin after microneedling (a procedure in which the skin is pricked with a device to create microinjuries and stimulate collagen production), some doctors are tweaking the process for even more impressive results. “I initially applied PRP topically during the microneedle skin rejuvenation procedure but wasn’t seeing significant changes (beyond microneedling alone) until I started injecting it in micro-droplets into the dermis,” says board-certified dermatologist

Dr. Nancy Samolitis, a co-founder of Facile Dermatology + Boutique, a favorite among actors Minka Kelly and Odette Annable, and well-known California-based influencers, such as Rocky Barnes and Brittany Xavier. The technique improves overall skin tone and texture, smoothing and softening fine lines and wrinkles. “I also love PRP for treating acne scars and for skin rejuvenation in areas that are often challenging to treat with only injectables, such as the under-eye area,” Samolitis shares. Dr. Ilya Reyter — one of Los Angeles’ most in-demand dermatologists, known for his subtle, face-refreshing results — agrees. “PRP’s popularity among patients increases each year. I consider PRP to be one of the most powerful, minimally invasive procedures performed in medicine today, with an overwhelming upside, and relatively little to no downside,” he says. “In the future, we will rely more on treatments that use our own tissues like PRP, and less on injections of foreign substances into our skin.” PRP, rich in regenerative ingredients, also promotes new hair growth, which is great news for men and women with thinning hair. Reyter is a big fan of using PRP on the scalp. “We’ve observed hair growth from PRP for years, even though the mechanism of action for PRP in hair growth is poorly understood.” Translation: It works, we just aren’t sure exactly how. The scalp treatment takes only a few minutes and is similar to the facial application — once PRP is created, small injections are made into the scalp; the patient leaves the office with no real downtime. Reyter suggests spacing treatments a few weeks apart. While PRP isn’t exactly new to the scene, its very existence can give us a glimpse into the future of cosmetic procedures, including using PRP to stimulate stem cells. “Those are primarily located in bone marrow and more difficult to harvest,” explains Samolitis. “Eventually stem cells [a type of cell that has not been differentiated into a particular tissue type] will be able to be turned into any kind of cell that we need to rejuvenate and repopulate tissue, such as skin-, fat-, muscle- and collagen-producing cells [called fibroblasts]. When that is possible, we likely will see a breakthrough in the true fountain of youth.” •

VILES: SZABOLCS MIZSER/SHUTTERSTOCK. SONG: @SONGOFSTYLE

Wellness

ZEN MOMENT

AIMEE SONG Veteran California fashion blogger Aimee Song has spent the past 10 years building her brand: she launched her influential site, Song of Style (songofstyle.com), and a YouTube channel, published two best-sellers and amassed more than 5 million Instagram followers. Recently, the Los Angelesbased tastemaker debuted her Song of Style capsule clothing collection in partnership with e-commerce site Revolve. The addition of the West Coast-inspired fashion line to Song’s repertoire brought fresh challenges. “I felt overwhelmed and overworked. I started seeing a therapist,” she confesses. Since then, her life has shifted. She’s calmer and more selective with her time. “Saying no can be a powerful tool for your health.” With less on her schedule, the avid celery juicer indulges in boxing sessions at Rumble and Set and Flow, and walking her dogs with her AirPods popped in, phone stowed away. “I’m more in the moment and less hard on myself now,” she says. It’s improved my relationships. I still have my ups and downs, but I’m working on it, and I’m grateful for how far I’ve come.”

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CBD beauty products are booming, but these eight rise to the top

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BEBOE THERAPIES’ anti-inflammatory high-potency CBD serum, $148.

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SAINT JANE LUXURY BEAUTY SERUM

BAMFORD B SILENT NIGHTTIME TEMPLE BALM

BEBOE THERAPIES HIGHPOTENCY CBD SHEET MASK

LAB TO BEAUTY ULTRA LUSH BODY BUTTER

More than 20 antioxidant-rich ingredients, infused with 500 mg of full-spectrum CBD, make up this healing serum that boosts skin’s natural radiance. $125, sephora.com.

Sleep peacefully and wake up restored with this mix of organic poppy seed oils, cannabis sativa hemp seed oil and organic chamomile. $42, ranchatthepiermalibu.com.

Soaked in plant extract AHAs, vitamins, algae extract and over 50 mg of CBD, each sheet works on a cellular level to moisturize and brighten the skin. $78, barneys.com.

Plumped up with CBD, aloe vera, vitamin C and shea butter, this mega-moisturizer with hyaluronic hydration is the secret to luminous skin. $50, barneys.com.

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VERTLY HEMP CBD INFUSED BATH SALTS

LORD JONES ROYAL OIL

PRIMA THE DAILY HEMP WELLNESS SOFTGELS

JUNA NUDE DAILY HEMP CBD DROPS

Plump full of hemp-derived CBD, these low-dose softgels are designed to help support healthy sleep, immunity, recovery and mood. $45, prima.co.

When taken daily, this antioxidant- and phytocannabinoid-rich hemp oil activates receptors to release stress and reduce inflammation. $75, juna-world.com.

Featuring minerals, botanical infusions and cannabinoids, these salts calm the mind and body, soothe muscles and stimulate circulation. $29, barneys.com.

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3. Welllness

Grapeseed oil and 1,000 mg of broad-spectrum CBD are the only two ingredients in this all-purpose supplement that can be used as a topical, a tincture or a beverage booster. $100, lordjones.com.

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MAGAZ I N EC.COM


SHOPPING GUIDE ON OUR COVER Gucci bright azure lamé crew-neck mini dress with puff sleeves, $6,980, Gucci, Beverly Hills, 310-278-3451; gucci.com. Fendi black organza pleated skirt, $1,980; fendi.com. Vram one-of-a-kind Eon earrings with blue and white sapphires, $36,400, Broken English, Santa Monica, 310-458-2724. Vhernier Verso ring, $5,050, Vhernier, Beverly Hills, 310-273-2444.

TABLE OF CONTENTS p.42 Sarah Paulson wears Carolina Herrera tiered shirt gown with belt, $3,990, Carolina Herrera, Beverly Hills, 310-276-8900. Emmanuel Tarpin Kinetics earrings, $39,000; emmanueltarpin.com. Marike wears Bottega Veneta top in lacquer satin, $1,320, skirt in shiny cellophane, $2,150, Sky Blue and silver pouch, $2,400, and boots in Storm Cuir, $1,150; bottegaveneta.com. Jacques Marie Mage Ray Carbon sunglasses, $495; jacquesmariemage.com. Jennifer Fisher large Bolden hoops, $495. Hue petite fishnet tights in black, $15; hue.com. Jens and Emma Grede both wear Frame clothing; frame-store.com.

COUNTRY STRONG p.64 Salvatore Ferragamo wool coat with fringed hood and trim, $4,300, and leather and plaid handbag, $1,990; ferragamo.com. Brunello Cucinelli cashmere fur coat, $21,500, hand-embroidered cardigan in cashmere and silk, $7,350, and silk pants, $1,645, Brunello Cucinelli, Beverly Hills, 310-724-8118. Stuart Weitzman Mckenzee Chill shearling boots, $695; stuartweitzman.com. Tod’s leather jacket, $4,625, bicolor turtleneck, $1,145, and leather pants, $3,175, Tod’s, Beverly Hills, 310-2850591; tods.com. Etro sweater, $3,880, Etro, Beverly Hills, 310-248-2855. Jimmy Choo Varenne Bowling bag with JC logo, $1,495; jimmychoo. com. Altuzarra checkered wool sweater, $2,095; altuzarra.com. Oscar de la Renta white flower Harvest scarf, $290, Oscar de la Renta, L.A., 323-653-0200. Coach 1941 tailored wool coat, $795, tuxedo pants, $350, similar styles available, tweed Tabby shoulder bag 26, $395, colorblock Marleigh satchel, $495, similar styles available, and lace-up chain booties, $495; coach.com. Sandro studded flannel top, $595, and flannel top, $430; sandro-paris.com. Michael Kors Collection auburn Glen plaid wool pants, $1,100; michaelkors.com.

MIDAS TOUCH

$2,200, Bulgari, S.F., 415-399-9141; bulgari.com. David Webb Stone Knot necklace with carved agate and black enamel, $84,000, David Webb, Beverly Hills, 310-858-8006. Graff multishaped diamond Threads bracelet, price upon request, Saks Fifth Avenue, Beverly Hills, 310-275-4211; graff.com. Pomellato Sabbia earrings with white, brown and black diamonds, $15,600, Pomellato, Beverly Hills, 310-550-5639. Piaget Endless Run ring, price upon request, Piaget, Beverly Hills, 929-458-8196; piaget.com. Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée Couleurs pendant with onyx, $21,700, Van Cleef & Arpels, Costa Mesa, 714-545-9500; vancleefarpels.com. Tiffany & Co. Tiffany T wire bracelet in rose gold with mother-of-pearl and diamonds, $2,600, Tiffany & Co., Beverly Hills, 310-273-8880; tiffany.com. Cartier Les Galaxies de Cartier ring with diamonds, rock crystal, and metaquartzite, limited edition of 20, price upon request, Cartier, Beverly Hills, 315-203-3707. Marco Bicego Lucia hand-engraved earrings in yellow gold with pavé diamonds, $10,410, Saks Fifth Avenue, S.F., 415-986-4300.

WEAVE WORK p.87 Dolce & Gabbana black and white woven bag, $4,145, Dolce & Gabbana, Beverly Hills, 310-888-8701; dolcegabbana.com. Bally Kyrah bag, $1,695, Bally, Beverly Hills, 310-247-1012; bally.com. Les Petits Joueurs Lulu bag with twisted piping, $556; lespetitsjoueurs.com. Dior embellished Lady Dior bag, $6,000, Dior, Beverly Hills, 310-859-4700.

COCKTAIL PARTY p.88 Red Valentino tulle and Point D’Esprit dress with floral embroidery, $1,570, Saks Fifth Avenue, Beverly Hills, 310-275-4211. Polly Wales Rita Rapunzel ring in California Sunset, $2,420, Wendy Foster, Santa Barbara, 805-966-2276. Rene Caovilla Operina slingback heels, $1,260; renecaovilla.com. Maje Jizio skirt, $395, similar styles available; maje.com. Polly Wales Celeste ring with white sapphires, $3,630, Esqueleto, S.F., 510-629-6216; shopesqueleto.com. Michael Kors Collection Bancroft Disco pouch, $1,550, and Mirella Runway shoes, $895, Michael Kors, Beverly Hills, 310-777-8862; michaelkors.com. Oscar de la Renta ivory ostrich feather gown, $22,290, Oscar de la Renta, Oscar de la Renta, L.A., 323-653-0200, crystal pavé point ring, $220; bergdorfgoodman.com, and white and black Billiard bag, $2,390; neimanmarcus.com. Tabitha Simmons Hermione gunmetal glitter flats, $695; tabithasimmons.com. Miu Miu floral dress, $2,510, shorts, $790, and socks, price upon request, Miu Miu, Beverly Hills; miumiu.com. Chanel organza dress, price upon request. Oscar de la Renta crystal gold shadow Bud Pavé flower earrings, $170; bloomingdales.com. Dolce & Gabbana white and gold clutch, $3,845, Dolce & Gabbana, Beverly Hills, 310-888-8701; dolcegabbana. com. AGL patent heels in gold, $555; agl.com. Givenchy short puffy dress in light peach, $4,595; givenchy.com. Andrea Fohrman, one-of-a-kind Lightning Ridge opal drops with pink sapphires, $8,600; andreafohrman. com. Glomesh single Barrel clutch, $429; glomesh.com. Tabitha Simmons Bells Rose satin heels, $895; tabithasimmons.com.

Beverly Hills, 310-271-5051; ysl.com. Jenny Bird Nora earrings, $80; jenny-bird.com. Jimmy Choo black kid leather pointed-toe pumps, $595; jimmychoo.com. p.111 Michael Kors Collection black bonded Gabardine military coat, $3,990, black cashmere elongated top, $590, and tiger sequin stretch tulle pants, $4,990, Michael Kors, Beverly Hills, 310-7778862; michaelkors.com. Dior earrings, price upon request, Dior, Beverly Hills, House of Emmanuele Titan Knight Nikki choker, $575, and noir crystal cuff, $725; houseofemmanuele.com. p.112 Max Mara wool and cashmere zebra cardigan, $940, and merino wool black turtleneck, $595, Max Mara, Beverly Hills, 310-385-9343. Mykita Studio 8.2 sunglasses in shiny black, $675, Mykita, L.A., 213-335-5815. Sergio Rossi multicolor striped boots, $1,895; sergiorossi.com. p.113 Vera Wang ivory check wool draped shawl, $950, black Georgette apron, $1,200, and silver sequin tank dress, $3,500, Vera Wang, Beverly Hills, 323-602-0174. House of Emmanuele crystal Titan Vamp choker, $250; houseofemmanuele.com. Dannijo Luna cuff, $295, and Rosie heart cuff, $195; dannijo.com. Jimmy Choo Maruxa 100 black patent jewel pumps, $1,895; jimmychoo.com. p.114 Prada striped top, $690, lace dress, $4,390, and buckle boots, price upon request, Prada, Beverly Hills, 310-278-8661. Jennifer Fisher 2-inch chain-link hoops, $395, statement chain-link pinky ring, $250, double chain-link ring, $290, and double cylinder ring, $295; jenniferfisher.com. p.115 Chanel shiny lambskin jacket, price upon request, wool tweed jacket, $6,400, shiny lambskin pants, $7,900, and metal, glass and strass earrings, $1,300, Chanel, Beverly Hills, 310-278-5500. Splendid Cass crop tee, $48; splendid.com. Lillian Shalom Marlene ring, $925; lillianshalom. com. Jimmy Choo Smoke metallic suede sneakers with crystals, $6,500; jimmychoo.com. p.116 Miu Miu leather and fur coat, $5,950, taffeta dress, $3,600, army print scarf and jeweled sandals, prices upon request, Miu Miu, Beverly Hills; miumiu.com. Dannijo Aude earrings, $170; dannijo. com. Rinaldy Yunardi fingerless spike gloves, $349, The Residency, L.A., 323-688-2077. p.117 Bottega Veneta top in lacquer satin, $1,320, skirt in shiny cellophane, $2,150, Sky Blue and silver pouch, $2,400, and boots in Storm Cuir, $1,150; bottegaveneta.com. Jacques Marie Mage Ray Carbon sunglasses, $495; jacquesmariemage.com. Jennifer Fisher large Bolden hoops, $495. Hue petite fishnet tights in black, $15; hue. com. p.118 2 Moncler 1952 tartan bomber jacket, $3,640, and tartan skirt, $1,315; moncler.com. Brunello Cucinelli sleeveless tee, $445 and pirite Argento necklace, price upon request, Brunello Cucinelli, Beverly Hills, 310-724-8118. AGL red latex booties, $500; agl.com. p.119 Versace black croc patent leather jacket, $4,400, fuschia heritage cable knit sweater, $875, and black croc patent leather skirt, $3,675; versace.com. p.120 Louis Vuitton leather jacket with lacing details, leather knee-length straight skirt, Basque belt, and Beaubourg platform derby shoes, prices upon request, Louis Vuitton, Beverly Hills, 310-859-0457; louisvuitton.com. Dannijo Sargent hoop earrings, $150; dannijo.com. p.121 Longchamp fur coat, $3,010, monogram jacket, $2,500, similar styles available, studded top, $1,220, and studded skirt, $2,670, Longchamp, L.A., 424-313-3483. YVY leather ring choker, $190, and eyelet bracelet, $158; yvy.com. Lillian Shalom Saturnus silver ring, $700; lillianshalom.com. Jennifer Fisher triple tube ring, $325; jenniferfisher.com. AGL black latex boots, $740; agl.com. Makeup: Serucell KFS Cellular Protein Complex serum, $225; serucell.com. It Cosmetics Bye Bye Lines foundation, $38; itcosmetics. com. Jillian Dempsey cheek tint in Bloom, $28; jilliandempsey.com. Dior Lip Glow, $34, and Diorshow On Stage liner in pearly turquoise and matte pink, $30.50 each; dior.com.

Shopping Guide

p.68 Hermès dog plated leather bracelet in black, $650; hermes.com. Oscar de la Renta black shearling slides with large buckles, price upon request; oscardelarenta.com. AGL black patent leather shoes, $585; agl.com. Bottega Veneta belt in happa, $1,400; bottegaveneta.com. Jimmy Choo Brelan 85 black suede boots with gold eyelets, $1,295; jimmychoo.com. Balmain x Cara Romeo quilted leather bag with studs, $2,950; balmain.com.

UNIFORM THINKING p.76 Paul Smith coat, $3,495, Paul Smith, L.A., 323-951-4800; paulsmith.

com. Max Mara white button-down top, $595, Max Mara, Beverly Hills, 310-385-9343. Sprwmn white leather pants, $1,300; sprwmn. com. Alexander McQueen red wool, silk and black flannel jacket with asymmetrical drape, $3,390, black flannel pants with red side stripe, $1,450, silver choker, $1,450, and leather boots, $1,290, Alexander McQueen, Beverly Hills, 323-782-4983. Jennifer Fisher double cylinder ring, $295, and Samira ear cuff, $150; jenniferfisher.com. Giorgio Armani top, $1,895, pants, $1,295, crossbody bag, $3,795, and belt, $775; armani. com. Jimmy Choo Maxima 35 black leather boots, $1,495; jimmychoo. com. Fendi black Gabardine Longuette dress with shoulder detail, $2,590, and nude fluid jersey and organza top, $890; fendi.com. Head N’ Home ultra leather military peaked cap, $113, Village Hat Shop, San Diego, 619-906-4440; villagehatshop.com. Hermès woven jacket in Egg Shell, $4,050, cashmere knitted turtleneck in Egg Shell, $1,825, and woven pants in Egg Shell, $3,700; hermes.com. Jacques Marie Mages Kilpatrick Antique sunglasses, $955; jacquesmariemage.com. Jennifer Fisher statement chain-link pinky ring, $250, and double chain link ring, $290; jenniferfisher.com. Stuart Weitzman Katrina boots in black vinyl, $725; stuartweitzman.com. Tom Ford Oxblood red velvet jacket, $2,950, Cranberry cashmere and silk turtleneck, $1,390, and red silk Duchesse pants, $1,990, Tom Ford, Beverly Hills, 310-270-9440; tomford.com. Jacques Marie Mage Jagger JPS sunglasses, $895; jacquesmariemage. com. Jennifer Fisher stripe signet ring, $225; jenniferfisher.com.

SHAPE SHIFTERS p.84 Bulgari Gelati ring in pink gold with mother of pearl and diamonds,

ON TOP OF THE WORLD p.92 Rodarte black floral Cloque ruffle top, and black floral Cloque asymmetrical skirt with ruffle, prices upon request; matchesfashion. com. Pomellato Ritratto amethyst and diamond ring, $12,100, Pomellato, Beverly Hills, 310-550-5639. Sergio Rossi black leather boots with ruffle, $1,495; sergiorossi.com. p.95 Carolina Herrera tiered shirt gown with belt, $3,990, Carolina Herrera, Beverly Hills, 310-276-8900. Emmanuel Tarpin Kinetics earrings, $39,000; emmanueltarpin.com. p.96 N. 21 by Alessandro Dell’Acqua embroidered nude dress with volant, price upon request; numeroventuno.com/en-us. Vram Tau Disco earrings, $30,220, Broken English, Santa Monica, 310-458-2724. p.97 Tory Burch gathered taffeta sleeve dress, $898, Tory Burch, Beverly Hills, 310-274-2394. p.98 Dolce & Gabbana polka-dot gown, price upon request, Dolce & Gabbana, Beverly Hills, 310-888-8701. Pomellato Tango brown diamond ring, $23,900, Pomellato, Beverly Hills, 310-550-5639. Makeup: Dior Capture Dreamskin Care & Perfect emulsion, $150, Backstage Face & Body primer, $36, Dior Forever Skin Glow foundation, $52, Diorshow Pump ‘n’ Volume HD mascara, $29.50, and Rouge Dior Ultra Care lipstick, $38; dior.com.

PUNKY TOWN p.108 Dior multicolor tartan jacket, $3,900, Sisterhood is Powerful tee, $860, tartan skirt, double belt and silver ring, prices upon request, Dior, Beverly Hills, 310- 859-4700; dior.com. House of Emmanuele Carnival Scorpio choker, $575; houseofemmanuele.com. p.109 Balenciaga Petrol blue faux fur coat, $2,990, Spruce green silk top, $1,450, and turquoise calfskin BB fringe booties, $1,190. Balenciaga, Beverly Hills, 310-8540557. Jennifer Fisher large bolden hoop earrings, $495; jenniferfisher. com. Hue opaque tights in blue, $15; hue.com. p.110 Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello fox fur cape and wool embroidered sculptural dress, prices upon request, and silk Swiss dot tights, $290, Saint Laurent,

PERFECT FIT p.123 Emma wears Good American satin midi dress in copper, $165; goodamerican.com. p.128 Jens wears Frame moleskin shirt jacket in noir, $295, Perfect tee in noir, $75, and L’Homme slim pants in noir, $195; frame-store.com. Emma wears Good American star burnout top in black, $169, and good legs pants in black, $149; goodamerican.com. Anita Ko diamond safety pin earring, $2,000, diamond loop earrings, $4,625, and diamond orbit earring, $2,100; anitako.com. Jimmy Choo Smokey 100 heels in black, $1,050; jimmychoo.com.

TAMARA MELLON’S NEXT STEP P.133 Longchamp black ruffle dress, $2,465, Longchamp, L.A., 424-3133483. Jennifer Meyer diamond mini bezel dangle hoops, $2,850, Jennifer Meyer, Pacific Palisades, 310-230-1271; jennifermeyer.com. Sylvie Corbelin Doubles Initiés ring, $4,700, Just One Eye, L.A., 323-969-9129. p.134 Valentino jumpsuit, $4,980, Valentino, Beverly Hills, 310-247-0103. Jennifer Meyer diamond pointed oval drop earrings, $6,500, Jennifer Meyer, Pacific Palisades, 310-230-1271; jennifermeyer.com. John Hardy classic chain two finger ring with diamonds, $7,500, John Hardy, Costa Mesa, 714-549-2356; johnhardy.com. Tamara Mellon Corbu 105 sandals in red, $450; tamaramellon.com. p.137 Etro floral dress, $7,200, Etro, Beverly Hills, 310-248-2855. John Hardy Naga drop earrings with diamonds, $1,495, John Hardy, Century City, 310-203-9690; johnhardy. com. Tamara Mellon Foxxy boots, $825; tamaramellon.com.

C Magazine is published 12 times/year by C Publishing, LLC. Editorial office: 1543 Seventh St., Santa Monica, CA 90401. Telephone: 310-393-3800. Fax: 310-393-3899. E-mail (editorial): edit@magazinec.com. Subscriptions: domestic rates are $19.95 for one year (12 issues); orders outside U.S. and Canada, add $49 postage; rest of the world, add $69. Single copies and subscriptions: shop.magazinec.com. Postmaster: Send address changes to C Magazine, P.O. Box 1339, Santa Monica, CA 90406.

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MY

C A L I F O R N I A

I

Favorite drink? Ketel One on the rocks, no fruit.

S

Favorite market? The Original Farmers Market at The Grove — the one and only from 1934. You’d think Barbara Stanwyck might be there buying groceries.

C O V

Favorite museum? Sunnylands [near] Palm Springs is like heaven on earth.

E

Where do you go to let loose? Tramp Stamp Granny’s [in Hollywood].

R I

What do you wear by day? I have a uniform that works almost everywhere in the world: dark Michael Kors jeans, a black Michael Kors T-shirt or black crewneck cashmere sweater, and black or gray sneakers.

E S MICHAEL KORS The inimitable American fashion designer shares his Golden State favorites, from shopping musts and road trips to swanky, old school eateries

My CA

Favorite restaurant? Musso & Frank Grill for the history, the prime rib and the amazing waiters. Favorite bar? Melvyn’s is a Palm Springs legend and the peoplewatching is amazing! It’s a slice of Hollywood history.

146

Favorite boutique? March in San Francisco. It makes even a noncook want to redo their kitchen from top to bottom. Which sunglasses do you wear? Michael Kors aviators or vintage Ray-Ban aviators. Favorite drive? Highway 1 driving over Bixby Creek Bridge in Big Sur. There’s a reason it’s so famous.

Favorite park? The Presidio — the trees, the view, and it’s all so close to downtown San Francisco. Amazing! Favorite beach? Pfeiffer Beach in Big Sur because of the cliffs, the ocean and the rock formations.

What do you wear in the evening? I’ll add a bespoke black jacket from Kilgore London and black crocodile Tod’s driving loafers to my uniform.

Clockwise from top left: MICHAEL KORS. San Francisco’s MARCH boutique. MERCEDES-BENZ E-Class Cabriolet. SUNNYLANDS in Rancho Mirage. MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION Monogramme python crossbody bag, $1,650. BIXBY CREEK BRIDGE in Big Sur. TOD’S City Gommino driving shoes in crocodileprint leather, $525. The historic MUSSO & FRANK GRILL in Hollywood.

What car do you drive? MercedesBenz E-Class convertible. Favorite must-have from your fall collection? Our new Michael Kors Collection Monogramme bag works with everything from jeans to a dress and it will only get better with time. What is California’s biggest contribution to style? The seasonless laidback luxury. •

MICHAEL KORS: INEZ AND VINOODH. MARCH: MICHAEL GRAYDON. MERCEDES-BENZ: DIRK WEYHENMEYER. SUNNYLANDS: SIBYELLE ALLGAIER. BIXBY BRIDGE: SAM GOODGAME/UNSPLASH.

D


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