Lombardia N W
also heightens the sense of smell; the olfactory compass that stops you from going off course. I ask Paola how it helps... «At night, the wind gives way to a breeze which comes down from the hills, through the gorges and, from time to time, takes the name of the towns situated on the shore. Picking up the scent of baking bread tells you that you’re approaching Laveno where there’s a bakery right in the square that opens onto the lake. The wind sends us the message
Castelveccana. Paola points her finger to a possible mooring place... The south wind is coming: now we must slacken the mainsail and, once again, immerse ourselves in the magnificent nature of the Lake Maggiore area. We change course for the Borromean Islands, some sailing, and then the impressive view of the Santa Caterina del Sasso monastery which is sensational as the sun sets on a
with its enchanting changing colours. Returning to Laveno by boat, the gaze opens up on the nature of the village and rises along the line of the cable car between the green of the mountain and the blue of the sky, into which paragliding enthusiasts launch themselves, decorating the “ceiling" above Lake Maggiore with their sails. Not to mention the charm of the villas on the shore of Caldè, Porto Valtravaglia, Germignaga and Luino, and the little town
and it's up to us sailors to receive it.» Each little town has its own wind: «Breezes originating from mountain or valley ground are named after the towns they come from: there's the "Colmegnina” (from Colmegna), the "Intragnola” (from Intra), the “Maccagnina” (from Maccagno)... ». In order to sail with all sails up, she explains, it is best to take advantage of those from the gorges of Maccagno, Pino
sunny day, its rays painting the rock and the building itself in enchanting colours. «Aperitivo, anyone?», asks Paola…Yes, you can even enjoy a pre-dinner drink while sailing on Lake Maggiore. Now it is time to return to Laveno: the day is over, in any case. Tomorrow, perhaps a hike along the mountain paths to get closer to the nature of the Prealps. If you prefer a bike, you are in the right place:
of Piero Chiara which lends a dash of culture to the lake with its narrow streets and lanes steeped in local history. Sailing time and again, you learn, above all, to face your fears. Silence and patience. Something magical happens: You forget about your mobile phone and think only about sailing the boat onward. Sailing brings you back to the simpler things. You have to look, observe and pay attention
and Tronzano, as well as from Caldè to Laveno and Intra and as far as Belgirate. In the morning, the wind is good between Colmegna and Luino as well as Ispra. For this reason, we must use the wind to guide us in planning our itinerary each day. It is impossible not to fall in love:
close by is Cittiglio, home of the first cycling “champion of champions”, Alfredo Binda. And there are also the tracks in the green Prealpine valleys where, each year, athletes compete in a classic cycling event: the Tre Valli Varesine race. In the evening, unlike on the sea, there is no
to everything around you and, in so doing, you rediscover the richness of Lake Maggiore’s shores. It takes concentration; you have to scrutinise the winds, understand and, most of all, wait. You learn the virtue of patience. When sailing a boat, you have to adjust the sails, take the
it is a beautiful summer’s morning with the north wind blowing, and the clear sky and warm water are irresistible. We cast off literally and metaphorically - then hoist the mainsail. The sails fill and we are off, close to the wind, zigzagging to catch it, from Laveno up to Porto Valtravaglia. The words are not so mysterious after all. A few moments of planning and, possibly, a plunge and a quick swim. The day passes quickly and it is time to moor up and stop to enjoy a finger-licking dish in Laveno itself of perhaps in Luino or
lighthouse, just a picturesque twinkling of lights where there is more wind and, where the air is calmer, a smooth mirror reflecting the lights of the little towns. Sailing on Lake Maggiore, unlike on the sea, offers many viewpoints and many delights to be seen from a unique perspective. There is the botanic garden in Cerro, at Villa Polidora, where the colours of the plants change with the seasons, creating fascinating effects that are different each time. Then there are the kilns in Ispra and the Santa Caterina del Sasso monastery
helm and sit in silence. You rediscover silence and have time to think. And time truly flies: suddenly, the day is ending and it is already time to go back, and you think, “what a pity!”. Paola smiles: we did it, in spite of everything. «Loosen the backstay!», Paola instructs me, loudly. The day is over. This final order signals the end of a unique adventure. I carry out the order and then we are on terra firma. I cast one last look at the lake, and there is another boat, sailing gently along.
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