Spectacular and Collectible Pieces 2022
First published in 2022 by BBEYOND BOOKS © BBeyond 2022 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise) without the prior written permission of both the copyright owner and the publisher of this book. www.bbeyondbooks.com ISBN 978-1-905904-81-5 Designed by www.squareandcircus.co.uk and www.aratidevasher.com
Spectacular and Collectible Pieces 2022
foreword In my eyes, the world of art jewellery is alive with possibilities. Today’s designers can explore nature’s most rapturous colour palettes, play with scale, adjust volumes and introduce textures in ways that elevate the humble jewel into something more akin to contemporary art. It is these kinds of spectacular and covetable creations that have found their place within the pages of this book. Even after the years I have spent immersed in high jewellery, I can still experience a sense of wonder when encountering a piece that demonstrates a distinctive, conceptual design. In fact, this book is filled with jewels that inspire such feelings. Curated within these pages are fine jewellery designers each with their own signature style and the technical proficiency to bring jewels to life. You will discover feats of craftsmanship adorned with rare gemstones, sculpted gold, repurposed artefacts and even whole worlds that appear frozen in time beneath faceted rock crystal. This diversity and energetic creativity underpins the significance of self-adornment and helps us go ‘beyond jewellery,’ as this book attests. The jewellers contained herein hail from far and wide, including Switzerland, the United States, Turkey and Japan to name but a few. Within their works, we find global cultures reimagined and reflected back at us, whether through colour palettes, the presence of materials or the choice of architecture and silhouette. If you turn the page to see a rock ‘n’ roll necklace, you may flip again only to discover a whimsical brooch or an Avant-garde ring. In my opinion, at least, an art jewel should give the impression that it is speaking directly and intimately to its intended recipient. We all have such varied tastes, and I am sure that you will find something here to suit yours. If you reach a page only for it to stop you in your tracks, chances are you have stumbled upon the designer whose aesthetic is calling to you, your experiences, your fashion and your own artistic eye. This joy of discovery is what drives my continued fascination with art jewellery. It is my hope that this book is the catalyst for your own journey of discovery or perhaps an avenue to uncover new artists who may enhance your existing passion.
— Katerina Perez
contents Alexander Laut
Tayma Page Allies
Katey Brunini 80 Valerie Jo Coulson
Rare 1 108
ALEXANDER LAUT Alexander Laut is a Russian-born master jeweller extraordinaire whose career has been as circuitous as has his life been culturally diverse, encompassing his Russian roots, Japanese and Hawaiian island aesthetics, and a cosmopolitan lifestyle. Laut has been a jewellery designer for 25 years. The explosion of colours in some of his designs is reminiscent of aristocratic Russian headdresses and each piece is unique and bold in its own way. “I was born and raised in Russia but moved to the USA at the age of 24. I first began bringing my jewellery designs to life in Honolulu, Hawaii, having taken endless inspirations from the beautiful island scenery. I then spent a considerable amount of time in Bangkok, Thailand, immersing myself in the culture there. I now live in Lisbon but still travel. Being born and raised in Soviet Russia, I was greatly inspired by the colourful Eurasian cultures and traditions. Moving to exotic Hawaii opened a new world of inspiration, which is equally reflected in my works. I credit the house of Harry Winston, and especially his son, Ronald, for motivating me to create “big and bold”, one-of-a-kind pieces.” The ingenious mix of important precious stones together with semi-precious gems in some of his designs results in designs that are at once idiosyncratic, playful and sophisticated. “In my most recent work I focus on rare, natural and untreated gems, such as corundum. I avoid on-trend materials such as titanium and aluminium, preferring to use traditional materials like platinum and gold. I see my designs as fit for any occasion – my pieces are different and outside the box.” Laut sources his own gems and builds each piece around the precious stone rather than trying to fit the gem into his design concept.
“I believe that the integrity of each piece is based to a large extent on the value and beauty of the gem stone. At the moment I am working on an exclusive piece for a long-time collector: a pearl and diamond necklace consisting of 27 pearls, each sized above 20mm. Collectors of my work are from all over the world. They are looking for unusual, unique and truly one-of-a-kind pieces. Still, my designs reflect what inspires me rather than being created with a specific individual in mind. I believe that my pieces speak for themselves and that is what attracts the collectors.” On collectible jewellery “I believe that people are attracted to creations that resonate with them. This makes them want to collect more of the same. Collectors are also able to identify timeless pieces. In order for a piece to be timeless, it has to be made from genuine, natural, untreated stones. My creations are sustainable and unique because the rawness of the process is reflected in the final product. Statement pieces attract people for different reasons: they may satisfy an aesthetic pursuit or one of rarity but in any case, they always draw attention. Collectors, on the other hand, have a more personal connection to the pieces.” Feature pieces “The work featured in this book ranges from conservative and classic pieces to playful and ironic creations. I feel the featured work reflects who I am as an artist and as an individual: it is a testimony to a certain emotional and aesthetic value, which is what I feel a good piece of jewellery ought to be.”
“I believe that the integrity of each piece is based to a large extent on the value and beauty of the gem stone.” 15
Edmond Avakian is the founder and designer-in-chief of the eponymous brand, beloved by Hollywood stars and lovers of high-octane glamour and intricately colourful jewellery. His career has been circuitous and his life culturally diverse, encompassing an Armenian heritage, Oriental influences, West Coast American academic background, and a cosmopolitan outlook. This has influenced his creations in a unique way. “I have had the good fortune to be exposed to be many cultures and geographical settings throughout my life. This is often seen in the geometrical designs of the jewellery pieces and in the strong use of colour contrast. Each piece is generally inspired by a place I have visited.” Avakian is a visionary who likes to “push the creative boundaries of craftsmanship” by combining ingenious design with rarity of gems that he sources out personally. “I tend to fall in love with a stone because of its unique colour and/or cut, and then work around the stone over the coming weeks and months to create a very unique design. Design has always been something that we put a lot of emphasis on. It has allowed us to differentiate Avakian, the brand, from that of our competitors. At the same time, we are mindful of the fact that the pieces need to be very wearable, so as to become a part of a woman’s day to day life and identity.” Edmond Avakian is a trained gemologist, as are his son and daughter who are leading the brand into the future through digitalization, innovation, and keen awareness of the modern consumer who is both discerning and knowledgeable. “Meticulous gem selection, the intrinsic value of the gem, and the ingenuity of design all go hand in hand - each element has to speak very eloquently. My children share both my vision and eye for detail.” The Avakian collections exude Hollywood glamour, opulence even, and grace many an actress during the Cannes Film Festival. While the high jewellery creations are conceived to wow, most pieces are very easy to wear and integrate into any lifestyle. “We don’t subscribe to trends. All our collections are classic, timeless, bold, colourful and versatile. Beside the classic collections, we create unique pieces for our high jewellery range. These pieces are designed around an important gem. We would generally see a gem we like and purchase it, and then, over the coming weeks and months, create a strong design to make the gem truly stand out, with strong colour contrasts complementing the design.”
21 Victory Pink Sapphire Bracelet
“We don’t subscribe to trends. All our collections are classic, timeless, bold, colourful and versatile.” 23
24 Riviera South Sea Golden Pearl Earrings
25 High Jewellery collection Ruby, Mother of Pearl and Diamond Ring Caché Collection Ruby and Diamond Ring
TAYMA PAGE ALLIES
The heart and soul, the inspiration for each piece of jewellery, is the beautiful gemstone itself. With an eye for the unusual, TAYMA Fine Jewellery showcases elegant and contemporary pieces, designing for the modern international woman who enjoys wearing her jewellery as often as possible. The brand is celebrating 30 years of creating one of a kind handmade jewellery in Hong Kong and has pioneered the introduction of many newly discovered gemstones such as Paraiba tourmalines. Writer, educator, jewellery designer, gem collector and entrepreneur, Tayma Page Allies has a passion for “living in colour”. Born in Malta, Tayma grew up in the Caribbean and West Africa. Her background is as diverse as the gemstones she sources, and it was the rich, vivid cultures of her childhood that ignited her love of colour and bold designs. As a passionate gemstone collector, Tayma styles herself a “Gemalista”, and over 30 years she has accumulated a vault bursting at the seams with stunning cut and cabochon jewels, fossils and minerals. “I’m a collector, and I’m always looking for rare and unusual gems that make my heart skip a beat. I’m fascinated by opalized fossils, and I’m designing a new collection featuring Belemnites and opalized fossil shells.”
“Choosing a gemstone is so personal. Looking at your sparkling aquamarine or turquoise Paraiba tourmaline is uplifting and reminds you of sunny days and holidays,” Tayma says. “Select gems that delight and inspire you: whether it’s a celebration or a romantic occasion, jewellery is always a gift of love.”
The Floating Islands flower pendants and rings were inspired by a bird’s eye view of Australia’s Lizard and Heron Islands. Designed with opals, and accented with diamonds, Paraibas, tanzanites and tsavorite garnets, they reflect the ocean hues of the Great Barrier Reef. The hypnotic extreme earrings, the “Aurora Australis”, designed to celebrate the brand’s 30th Anniversary, resemble the flashing lights of the Southern Aurora, and are a rare pair of extra-long boulder opals set with diamonds and Paraiba tourmalines. The stunning 46.91 carat Paraiba “Wave ring” pays homage to the turquoise Caribbean Sea. The versatile Art of Mixology Collection was inspired by a pair of ancient 2000-year-old Roman hoop and drop earrings that Tayma discovered, and introduces a new dimension to the classic hoop and drop, perfect for the busy working woman who needs deskto-dinner, day-to-night mix and match jewellery. An ingeniously concealed “mousetail” links all three – the hoop, the mixer and the drop. According to Tayma, these infinitely adaptable earrings take you from casual day chic to cocktail hour glamour. Intricate, beguiling and tempting, the TAYMA Cobweb Collection draws us into a colourful web of desire. The mix of cut and cabochon gems, shapes and hues appeal to our wish to stand out in a crowd, as no two designs can ever be the same. According to Tayma, it takes up to nine months to create each Cobweb Cuff, rearranging the gems to maximum effect. “To be an exceptional jeweller, you need an ‘eye’, a natural flair for proportion and colour, as well as a sensibility for the beauty of a gemstone and an idea of who is going to wear it. As a woman, I know what I like to wear and my clients are looking for individual, one-off designs. We celebrate creativity, curiosity, compassion and confidence, and this is quintessentially TAYMA Fine Jewellery,” adds Tayma.
27 Tayma Page Allies wearing the Aurora Australis earrings and her Paraiba ring
Tayma Fine Jewellery
28 Cobweb Collection Imperial Topaz, Paraiba, tourmalines, yellow sapphire, rainbow moonstone, mandarin garnet and diamond Cobweb cuff in 18K yellow gold
29 Cobweb Collection Rings in fancy sapphires, Paraiba, green tourmalines, moonstones and diamonds
Tayma Fine Jewellery
30 The Wave Ring Paraiba tourmaline 46.91ct
31 Paraiba Collection Paraiba tourmaline and diamond rings
Tayma Fine Jewellery
“I’m a collector, and I’m always looking for the unusual, the rare and the collectable. It’s just what appeals to me and my passion, it’s what makes my heart skip a beat.”
34 Rubellite COllection Rubellite tourmaline and diamond rings
Tayma Fine Jewellery
35 The Art of Mixology Paraiba and rubellite tourmaline diamond earrings
Tayma Fine Jewellery
36 Paraiba Collection Paraiba tourmaline and diamond earrings
37 Floating Islands Opals, Paraiba tourmalines and diamonds
ZOLTAN DAVID SPARKED BY IMAGINATION. FORGED BY FIRE.
Zoltan David is a master jeweller and the founder of the eponymous high end “mystical” jewellery brand. His early fascination with metals, minerals and techniques, and the way objects were put together found its perfect expression in creating jewellery. Once he’d chosen his vocation, he apprenticed with a number of highly accomplished goldsmiths and designers which helped establish the foundation of his creative path. Today, his brand is one of the most highly regarded and his creations eminently collectible and collected. “I am an artist and an engineer, a designer and an inventor. I have a deep passion for beauty and a respect for its power to uplift and inspire not only me but all those who experience my creations. I often feel these creations are not so much mine as they are treasures I have discovered and revealed along my path of a jewellery artist.” Zoltan’s in-depth knowledge of, and artistry in working with metals is the product of a life-long pursuit of excellence. As his experimentation and research evolved, so too did his discovery of rare metals’ characteristics and secrets. His workshop is named Dancing Metals Studio because “ the metals perform as he choreographs”. An accomplished craftsman, he is best known and celebrated for the process of cold forged fabrication, inlaid metals and married metals. Critically, his work holds the only Metal Ornamentation patent in jewellery making. Zoltan considers wearability a vital component of jewellery. 38
“Jewellery is a functional art. The design must be ergonomic; luxury MUST be comfortable.” Zoltan’s pieces are exhibited in a number of museums, including the Smithsonian Natural History Museum’s permanent display, the Museum at the Gemological Institute of America, and the Alfie Norville Gem and Mineral Museum. Collectors are the backbone of the brand and well aware of the distinction between collectible and iconic jewellery as opposed to merely statement pieces. “The fundamental aspect of collectible jewellery is the ability to identify the author at first glance. The second most important is that the work is not mass manufactured but rather, one of a kind or part of a limited edition. The third and most important is that the work be original.” Zoltan works with “all materials beautiful and mystical” but primarily with gold, platinum, bronze, aluminium, zirconium and steel. He incorporates all pristine and exquisite coloured gems, from rubies to lapis lazuli, to emeralds, turquoise, sapphires and jade. If he were to pick one historical or living personality for whom he would like to design a bespoke piece, that would be Coco Chanel, because: “She was a pioneer, a rebel, a trailblazer with a passion for originality and beauty. I like to believe that she would have fallen in love with a design I would create for her.”
39 Starflower AGTA Spectrum Award Winner. 28 ct. Nigerian Tourmaline set in Palladium bezel with 24K Gold shaped inlay and gray Sapphires, Zirconium and 18K Gold flower with 24K Gold shaped inlay.
40 Fifth Element 12 ct Moonstone and Diamonds in Platinum ring body with Bronze elements.
41 Ruby Flight 2.45 ct Burmese Ruby in Platinum with 24K Gold shaped inlay, 18K Gold center band and setting, Rubies and diamonds.
“I have a deep passion for beauty and a respect for its power to uplift and inspire not only me but all those who experience my creations.”
44 Boulle Butterfly Butterfly in Knighsteel with 18K Gold inserts, 24K Gold shaped inlay and Rubies.
45 Come to Me Cognac Diamonds, Paraiba Tourmalines and one perfect Pearl set in Platinum grill and Palladium ring body with 24K Gold shaped inlay.
46 Into the Mystic Cuff bracelet in Steel with 24K Gold shaped inlay, iridescent blue and purple Steel, Tsavorites, Sapphires and Diamonds.
47 Promise Shield 15 ct Golden Beryl in 18K Gold bezel with 24K Gold shaped inlay and Rubies in Platinum frame with Diamonds.
The history of Gimel began when Kaoru Kay Akihara came upon a diamond when she was a GIA student in Los Angeles in the early 70`s. She was so fascinated by its beauty, brilliance, richness and the value of the stone that she decided that she would pursue the profession of a jewellery designer. She faithfully followed the process of assessing these qualities in gem stones, a process absolutely fundamental and essential in creating jewellery. As she accumulated experiences, she learned to pour affection into her products and became quite proficient in making the best possible jewellery through better use of gems while insisting on the highest possible standard at every stage of the process. The products can only be engraved the brand name “Gimel” after a strict scrutiny which has gained Gimel jewellery many international accolades. Gimel made a debut as a jewellery brand at the 2nd Internationl Jewellery Show at Makuhari Messe, Japan in 1991. “At Gimel, we consider the colour of gems as paints on a palette and we think it imperative that the minimum amount of metal is visible from the front by crafting a perfect setting in order to achieve the most stunning effect. We enjoy creating fine pieces, so our products reflect a certain degree of fun, and our belief that jewellery must have a story behind it. You will find the backs of many of Gimel’s creations are embellished with a small creature, such as a ladybird, a honeybee, ants and so on.” Kaoru Kay Akihara says “Gimel attempts to capture life at its brightest moments well before nature takes that life away”. Acutely aware of the necessity to maintain the delicate balance between industry and nature, and deeply concerned about the consequences of climate change, Akihara has made it her mission to encapsulate the fragile beauty of nature and to transmit it to future generations. Dancing lights Young fresh leaves eager with breath of life, Humming bumblebees in search of honey, abound in fragrant with flowers. Sunflowers face strongly towards the burning sun. A dragonfly dances within the cool breeze, Rhythmical cosmos spray the autumn field, Maple deepens its red, smiling in the vernal sunshine, Acknowledging the approaching winter. The earth falls slowly to sleep as white crystals descend from heaven. What have been lost and what will be lost, circle of life, This beautiful and irreplaceable nature expressed in jewellery. That is Gimel 48
49 Turtle Brooch and Pins 950 Platinum, Trapiche Emerald, Emerald, Diamond, Alexandrite
Spring Flower rings All 950 Platinum, Diamond, Demantoid garnet. Individuals pieces also feature 18K Yellow Gold, Alexandrite, Sapphire, Spinel, Paraiba tourmaline, Mandarine garnet and Yellow diamond
Clover Brooch 950 Platinum, 18K Yellow Gold, Demantoid garnet, Diamond, Sapphire
Flower Ring 950 Platinum, Pink diamond, Diamond
51 Swallow Brooch 950 Platinum, Alexandrite, Diamond
52 Crab Pins From Above All 950 Platinum and Diamond. With: Sapphire; Aquamarine and Demantoid garnet; Spinel (clockwise from top)
Summer Right: Olive Necklace and matching earrings 950 Platinum, Keshi pearl, Demantoid garnet; Diamond (earrings only) Below: Lily of the Valley Brooch 950 Platinum, 18K Yellow Gold, Demantoid garnet, Diamond, Ruby
53 Left: Sunflower Brooch 950 Platinum, 18K Yellow Gold, Yellow diamond, Diamond, Demantoid garnet; Sapphire (right image only) Right: Yacht Pin 950 Platinum, Diamond
“Gimel attempts to capture life at its brightest moments well before nature takes that life away”.
Maple leaf brooch (back) 18K Yellow Gold, 950 Platinum, Yellow diamond, Andradite garnet, Diamond, Ruby.
Below: Maple leaf brooches Clockwise from top: 950 Platinum, Diamond; 950 Platinum, 18K Yellow Gold, Andradite garnet, Diamond; 950 Platinum, Demantoid garnet, Diamond
56 Left: Grape Pins 950 Platinum, Sapphire, Demantoid garnet, Diamond Centre: Leaf Brooch 18K Yellow Gold, 950 Platinum, Demantoid garnet, Andradite garnet, Diamond, Ruby
Winter Clockwise from top: Skier Earrings 950 Platinum, Diamond A Boy with Balloon pin 950 Platinum, Keshi Pearl, Diamond Maple Leaf Brooch 950 Platinum, Diamond, Sapphire
58 Lotus Flower Brooch 950 Platinum, 18K Yellow Gold, Pink diamond, Yellow diamond, Demantoid garnet, Diamond, Beryl, Sapphire, Spinel
Winter Top Left: Unicycle Pins 950 Platinum, Trapiche Emerald, Diamond, Sapphire Bottom Left: Violinist Pin 950 Platinum, Sapphire, Diamond
Bottom Centre: Ballerina Earrings 950 Platinum, Diamond
Top Right: Dressage Pin 950 Platinum, Sapphire, Diamond Bottom Right: Conductor Pin 950 Platinum, Sapphire, Diamond
MAISON AUCLERT The concept of ‘Mounted Objects’ was invented by the ingenious artisans of the Renaissance. Goldsmiths, watchmakers and cabinetmakers of the era would take engraved stones, lacquers or porcelains, and create new mountings around them, thus repurposing them into unusual, exquisite objects for the delectation of their refined and eclectic clientele. Inspired by the audacious and poetic approach of the Renaissance masters, Maison AUCLERT has assembled an elegant collection of Antique works of art and mounted them as pieces of contemporary jewellery for a discerning contemporary clientele. Every piece in the collection is unique and hand-made by the artisans of the best workshops in Paris. In deference to the uncompromising spirit of the collector, each Antique work of art is respected: no soldering, scratching, permanent gluing, no repiercing or alteration is permitted during the mounting process. The grandson of an antique dealer, Marc Auclert has had a passion for antique jewellery and objects of curiosity from a young age. Having spent over twenty years working for some of the most prestigious jewellery houses worldwide, he has now decided to succumb to his passion, and has created Maison AUCLERT to share it with others.
61 Bracelet Menuki Tigres
Bracelet Sceau en Lapis Lazulli
63 Bracelets Perle Tricylindrique
“Maison AUCLERT has assembled an elegant collection of antique works of art and mounted them as pieces of contemporary jewellery.”
Bague Camée Lacunaire
Bague Profil Hélios
Bague Fragment Lion
Bague Camée Blackamoor
BO Agates Tibétaines
BO Impression Lucius Verus
BO Impression 4 Intailles
68 Pendentifs Cristal de Roche
Collier Intaille Magique
Pendentif Oiseau Indien 69 Collier Tête Bleue JZ
MANA MATSUZAKI Mana Matsuzaki is an award-winning Japanese jewellery designer whose collection is a nod to the best in classic civilisation: to launch her brand she used the word LATREIA, a Greek theological term meaning adoration. The majority of her collections are also named after Greek words. “I have long been in awe of Greek ancient history; the philosophy, politics and culture of that era have had such a powerful influence especially on the Western world to this day. When I came across the word “LATREIA”, originating from the Orthodox bible, I felt it captured perfectly the elegance I wanted to convey in my jewellery collection.” Matsuzaki doesn’t incorporate any specifically Japanese cultural elements in her work – that would be an easy cliché, she feels. Rather, she draws inspiration from the shapes of fossils and skeletons she observed at the American Museum of Natural History. “My designs can be appreciated and understood without complex explanations - I wanted to create jewellery that transcends ethnicities, cultures and times. I wanted to create jewellery that even space aliens could understand.” That said, Matsuzaki has enormous regard for traditional Japanese handcrafts and techniques and while none of her work is explicitly Japanese, she feels she is subconsciously influenced by the Japanese shibui aesthetic, defined by laid back, subtle elegance rather than ostentation. Her fascination with pre-historic adornments made of bone, horns, and other raw elements used before gems were mined is reflected in the design of the pieces, many of which appear to be claws, arrows or are scarab-like in shape. “When drawing a human skeleton at art school, I noticed that the shapes of bones are really interesting. Staring at the big pointy claws and huge curved spines of the T-Rex for the first time, I found ‘factional beauty’ designed by nature itself. Ever since I have been obsessed with those natural shapes and have come to focus on the concept of “animism” and the original meaning of jewellery. I admire how our ancestors used to communicate with nature and the supernatural power through their jewellery.
Earth itself is a source of my inspiration so just copying shapes of existing creatures like certain flowers or insects is not my style.... They are already beautiful and perfect as they are. I’m not interested in recreating beautiful things into jewellery. I want to design beautiful work with materials that are not obviously beautiful. I want to focus on the hidden beauty charm and mystery of nature and bring these elements out in my work.” Matsuzaki sources gems through trustworthy dealers who have been trading with her family business for decades. Her father, and the jewellery company president, has been an important gem collector since the 1980s. Her favourite stones are red, pink and black: Rubies, Pink Sapphires, Tourmalines, Garnets and Black Diamonds. She also likes pearls. Matsuzaki’s design and craftsman studios are intertwined physically and logistically, a distinctive feature of fusing jewellery conceptualisation and jewellery making. “I grew up in this environment since I was born: my parents started their own atelier over 50 years ago and have been producing elaborate and unique pieces, working closely with skilled craftsmen. I have always enjoyed watching the process and this comes naturally to me. I am only a designer. I’m incapable of creating the actual pieces. I always need craftsmen who perfectly understand my concept and turn my drawings into reality. We need to work together and in unison to achieve excellence. This year, 2021 is our company’s 50th anniversary and when I take over the family business. I intend to keep our atelier going for as long as I work as a designer.” Strong concept, artistry, craftsmanship and quality gems make a jewellery brand both collectible and instantly recognisable. Mana Matsuzaki has selected as her most recognisable and representative of her brand piece her debut work: a necklace that features a big round black diamond and south sea pearls. “This piece obviously illustrates claw shapes and clearly conveys my original concept. Anyone can understand what I want to do as a designer through this piece. 2021 is also my brand’s 15th anniversary. Looking back on my own history, I re-evaluate my first work and I believe it is daring and keen. I would also like to feature my tanzanite necklace as it is a personal favourite of mine.”
72 Demiurgos Necklace in 18K Yellow Gold with Black Diamond, South Sea Pearls and Diamonds
73 Left: Claw Link Necklace, Double Claw Ring (top) and Monarkos Ring (bottom) All in 18K Yellow Gold with Diamonds Right: Gyalia Eyewear Collections in 18K Yellow Gold with Diamonds / 18K Rose Gold
“I’m not interested in recreating beautiful things into jewellery. I want to design beautiful work with materials that are not obviously beautiful.
76 Pteryx Necklace in 18K Yellow and White Gold with Tanzanite and Diamonds
77 Aftokrateira Brooch / Pendant in 18K White and Yellow Gold with Pink Tourmaline and Diamonds
78 Margaritari Pendant in 18K White Gold with South Sea Pearl and Diamonds
79 Elafi Lefkos Necklace and Earrings in 18K White Gold with Baroque Pearls and Diamonds
Katey Brunini is a fine jewellery artist who is the recipient of the Women’s Jewelry Association Award of Excellence in Design, the American Gem Trade Association’s Editors’ Choice Spectrum Award, the International Pearl Design Competition Award and the MarCom Platinum Award for website design, among many others. Brunini’s work has been featured in the San Diego Museum of Natural History, the Carnegie Museum, the Gemological Institute of America’s Permanent Collection, the Headley-Whitney Museum (Smithsonian adjunct), as well as at Art Basel Miami. She was raised in a small beach community north of San Diego. “My family was a nomadic tribe of sorts. Education and experiences are important to us. I studied history, art history, design, religion, and gemology, as well as doing jewellery apprenticeships in Italy and California. K. Brunini jewels was launched in the 1990’s and has global brand recognition for design, ethics, and authentic creativity influenced by Mother Nature’s rhymes, and interconnected to a universal rhythm.” Her collections are thematically created and organised – an interesting concept in itself. “I grew up with a librarian mother, so everything in my life has become a series of book chapters organized like the Dewey Decimal system. I don’t really believe in chronological time, thus threads of feelings and sentiments guide my thought process. Themes rise like cream to the top when freed from boundaries and boxes.” Brunini’s pieces are complex and intricately built, some with a hint of Edwardian grandeur; others with a tribal whimsy or bohemian chunkiness. The rings, in particular, are definitive statement/ conversation pieces, the use of organic materials alongside precious gems and metals providing an interesting counter point. This, she says, is a play on raw and refined, good and evil. The idea is to flip it on its side, and then flip it again. “Life is boring when everyone looks and acts the same. Individuality has to be earned in earnest in an age that celebrates “followers”. Decades of thoughts and ideas and millennia of practical techniques merge in our pieces. Conventional rules have blurred edges and they flow into a bigger picture. I find the prettiest ugly, and the ugliest pretty. Timelessness is the goal. The pieces say, “ I stand out in the crowd, not because I am the loudest or the flashiest, but because silently, I touch the depths.” Our clients know what this means - they are not followers.” Brunini loves rubies and opals, especially together. “They pair exceptionally well.....unexpectedly”. She does create on commission, as well as a retail range. “I feel the most important aspect of creating a commissioned piece is to be a focused and good listener. I am a conduit to the combined sensitivities of the creator and the wearer. The jewel is meant to be worn, not hidden away, so it must resonate with the adorned. I have no ego involved with the final creation, I am merely a surrogate of beauty. There must exist a unilateral trust. I trust in the grace and violence of Mother Nature.” 80
81 Twig “Chains of Love” necklace Oxidized sterling silver with bezel set Yowah nut “Unicorn Eye” and 18k yellow gold eyelashes with .50 carat total weight hot pink spinels en tremblant.
Vertebrae Bangle in black oxidized sterling silverwith 200.11 carat total weight aquamarine cabochons, and 2.28 carat total weight diamonds
Objects Organique antler ring in 18k yellow, white, or rose gold with 6.01 carat cushion cut lavender spinel and .37 carat total weight diamonds
Objects Organique dragon ring in 18k yellow, white, or rose gold and black rhodium with 3.24 carat emerald cut red spinel and .03 carat total weight ruby eyes
DNA ring in platinum with 8.46 carat gray spinel cushion cut center and 5.18 carat total weight gray spinel side stones and approximately .55 carat total weight diamonds
Skipping Stones necklace in oxidized sterling silver with 12 Koroit and opals in matrix and 5 gigantic Sleeping Beauty turquoise beads
83 Skipping Stones earrings in 18k yellow, white, or rose gold with bezel set opals and turquoise beads
“Life is boring when everyone looks and acts the same. Individuality has to be earned in earnest in an age that celebrates “followers”.
86 Vertebrae necklace in 18k yellow gold and oxidized sterling silver with 16 bezel set Australian opals
Skipping stones necklace in black oxidized sterling silver and morganite beads with 87.22 carat pear shaped Madagascar Morganite cabochon and 1.70 carat total weight diamonds and .80 carat total weight pink diamonds set in lightning bolt
87 Objects Organique necklace in 18k rose gold with crystallized shells, South Sea pearls, carved Midway coral beads, and approx. 0.55 carat total weight irradiated blue diamonds and opal clasp
VALERIE JO COULSON Valerie Jo Coulson is an American designer whose brand is strongly defined by her personality and philosophy. Coulson majored in Fine Arts with three semesters in jewellery making and recognized quickly that this was the medium for her expression. She has worked as an independent studio jewellery artist since 1979.
All of her pieces, unique as they are, have strong emotional and literary connections and are created first and foremost for herself, but “within the context of communicating a collective consciousness. ” “By the age of nine, I was well on into my immersion in the arts and cognizant of its power and importance to humanity. At the time, reading Irving Stone’s The Agony and the Ecstasy, life of Michelangelo, I experienced what I might describe as an epiphany, compelling me to proclaim that I was going to live my life as an artist. My work in essence is a visual biography, steeped in existential contemplations synchronically with history and events which inform, inspire and perplex me.” Collectors of her jewellery would appreciate the unique and stunning aesthetic of each piece all the more if they are aware of the narrative behind it. They would also relate to it subliminally.
“The defining thread of my beliefs and transcription through my work is woven within the philosophy of Sacred Geometry... the interconnectedness and inseparability of the part from the whole. Geometries are the archetypes of a universal language that describes the seen and unseen order of nature and the cosmos; rhythms and cycles, relationship of form, movement, space and time. I believe this is an intrinsic narrative which resonates through energies/vibrations. Aesthetically and no less paramount, is beauty manifested through symmetry and order. My father in his tutelage often said to me ‘simplicity is beauty’.”
Coulson’s traditional fabrication methods and the prolific and intricate use of stone inlay, as well as her choice of materials make a strong visual impact. “I like to refer to them as ‘Character stones’, because each has its own script and unique reveal. My heart beats a little faster when I look at stones that have a chatoyant effect (from the French verb “chatoyer” meaning to shine like a cat’s eye): Opal, Tiger Iron/Tiger’s Eye, Rutilated Quartz, Moonstone. They are also the most difficult to inlay as the orientation and cutting is crucial to optimize the beauty, the play of light. The architecture of the jewel is configured via traditional, time honored metal working techniques of fabrication and forming. This structure or bridgework creates the windows or compartments within which to inlay the stone. In this methodology, I can create sculptural form and painterly canvas utilizing a modicum of these precious materials. This is integral to me in a spiritual connection to the land. The entirety of the work is by my own hands, with the exception of several pieces in the last couple of years incorporating elements which are 3D printed and cast such as the linkages for the Concatenation d’etoiles necklace.” Each Coulson piece is striking in its own way, inspired as it is by specific events, moods or other works of art, yet at the same time the artist’s signature style throughout the collection is unmistakable. Clients are primarily collectors who buy specifically the Valerie Jo Coulson creation as well as what is ultimately a statement piece of wearable art.
89 Concatenation d’etoiles Necklace
Valerie Jo Coulson
90 Chiaroscuro Necklace
91 Gauntlet Cuff
Valerie Jo Coulson
“Aesthetically and no less paramount, is beauty manifested through symmetry and order. My father in his tutelage often said to me ‘simplicity is beauty’.”
Valerie Jo Coulson
94 Firenze bracelet
95 The Echinacea Teapot
SEVAN BIÇAKÇI Sevan Biçakçi creates jewellery that is eminently collectible. He is often seen wearing several of his rings on each hand and stacking multiple bracelets around each wrist. His bold distinctive pieces look like they might come straight from the proverbial Aladdin’s cave, making a statement that is inherently different to that of straightforward single, high carat gem rings, for example. “The statement my unique designs make about their wearers is quite simple: they work very much like the symbols of ancient goddesses and gods, telling us about their beliefs, strengths, love for nature or interest in culture, history and about many other facets, thus making them feel like genuine individuals. I don’t think that such goals can be achieved with the classic single, high carat gem ring which may hint at one’s wealth or the generosity of the person who buys it, however I personally expect more than that from jewellery. I expect my pieces to function as subjects, not as objects.” The cultural references of Biçakçi’s work are firmly rooted in the Ottoman Empire and the Byzantium before that, with collectors attracted by the highly idiosyncratic, story-telling style, intricate craftsmanship and fantastical design, all interwoven in the same piece. “The culture that is reflected in my works is basically a summary of the last 3000 years on today’s Turkish territory, which makes Armenian culture equally an inevitable part of it. I take pride in living in a geographical area that has been considered the melting pot of civilizations throughout history and I try to mimic this characteristic with my personal approach to jewellery design. From the viewpoint of cultural influence, none of my pieces are in fact of distinct Ottoman, Byzantine or Armenian character. Rather, they reflect all influences that have been interacting in this part of the world for several thousands of years. Inspired by an ocean of cultural layers, I create one-of-a-kind crossbreeds.”
Biçakçi “turns precious stones into even more precious pieces”, adding value and pedigree through design and craftsmanship. “I was once invited to collaborate with an emerald mining company from Columbia who wanted to commission twenty special pieces to be exhibited on special occasions around the world, starting with Cannes Film Festival. After showing me their inventory of “special” emeralds with prices ranging $40000-$50000 per carat, they asked which ones I would like to work with. My first pick was a 50-carat stone with a value of $2.5 million. I saw a chance to reversely engrave a cherub intaglio into it, but the moment I articulated this idea, I could see the host’s face turn pale. In a panic, he told me that their emeralds were too precious to risk; they would want me to use the stones as they are, without engraving reverse intaglios into any of them. Despite my attempts to explain that this is my way to turn precious stones to priceless ones, they were reluctant to end up with cracked stones or reduced emerald weights, so the conversation went nowhere. Gem quality and provenance are important, however, not the be all and end all.” Fair trade, sustainability and genuineness apart, Biçakçi is open to working with all kinds of gems. “Unfortunately”, he says, “some minerals like kunzite and zultanite would end up getting chipped in whole layers during the intaglio carving process, which automatically limits their usage in my atelier”. “Emerald and tanzanite are very fragile and difficult to work with, but it is a risk worth taking as I love them too much.”
Sevan Biçakçi Dance of Cranes Necklace of gold, silver, diamonds, mosaics with Carnelian tesserae, Amethyst with reversely engraved intaglio of two cranes. In Eastern cultures, cranes are known for bringing news from afar, for being loyal, and for bringing good luck. Because they are monogamous, because they love to dance in pairs with the flock, and because they live long lives, they're even emulated by humans. Double cranes carved into the stone center of this necklace represents two lovers bound to each other by eternal loyalty.
Enchanteur Ring of gold, silver, a diverse array of diamonds cuts, and a tanzanite with reversely engraved dome architecture intaglio Over the five hundred years following the conquest of Constantinople, stunning mosques, covered bazaars, mausoleums, hammams and other complexes were built throughout the realm of Ottoman Empire. Many of these were influenced by the magnificence of the Hagia Sophia: Sevan’s trademark dome-shaped ring arose from the same enchantment. To accomplish this difficult task, he sometimes risks precious but extremely fragile gemstones – tanzanite in this case – as he puts into it a carefully engraved domed bazaar intaglio. And even though the stone did not break by the time the job was finished, it lost almost half of its weight as dust away into the air. In this piece, around 200 sparkling diamonds of a variety of cuts are spread across the base to do justice to the hard and beauty that went into it.
Sevan Biçakçi King Cobra Bracelet of gold, silver and a diverse array of diamond cuts in various shades The King Cobra: An important symbol of determination, assertiveness, daring, transformation and grace in many ancient cultures. In this piece, the design of th ejing cobra’s jaw functions as a ring. The body and til allow the bracelet to be easily attached and removed thanks to spring joints that allow for mobility. An array of different cuts of diamonds come together in various sshades of cognac and yellow to depict the patterns and texture unique to the snake.
“Inspired by an ocean of cultural layers, I create one-of-a-kind crossbreeds.” 103
Golden Horn Bracelet of gold, silver, diamonds, miniature paintings The space formed at the front when the cuff is closed is framed with black diamonds, and represents Istanbul’s Golden Horn and the thousands of years of history it’s paid witness to. The parts that touch the lower wrist offer views from both sides of the Golden Horn, displayed as Ottoman miniatures against a gold leaf background. The rest plays homage to a flying flock of seagulls highlighted with white diamonds. The spring-loaded hinge at the back allows the bracelet to open from the front to either side.
Sevan Biçakçi Gazella Wristwatch of gold, silver, diamonds, and sapphire glass with reversely engraved intaglio of a gazelle figurine. Alaattin Gaybi was the son of the bey (prince) of the Alaiye beylik (principality). After shooting a gazelle under its arm, he chased the fleeing gazelle to Abdal Musa’s lodge. He couldn’t see the gazelle, so he asked the dervishes where it had gone. Finally, he saw Abdal Musa, shot under his own arm by this same arrow. After he saw this, Gaybi bound himself forever to Abdal Musa, refusing even his father’s attempts to extricate him. The image of the gazelle appears on this glass cover of this wristwatch as it leaps towards the sky, all while remaining stationary. It’s instilled not with violence, but with love.
Messenger Ring of gold, silver, black and brown diamonds and a smoky quartz with reversely engraved dove intaglio The first to leave Noah’s Ark after the Great Flood, returning shortly thereafter with an olive branch in its beak, heralding the continuation of life on Earth despite the greatest natural disaster in history... The dove has been a symbol of survival ever since.
RARE 1 David Birnbaum is the founder of, and guiding force behind, Rare 1, the brand extraordinaire conceived to fill a gap on the global market. As the name suggests, the firm deals in gems of ultimate rarity. “Clients globally come to us for the exceptional quality, rarity, beauty and value of the gems, certified by our brand signature.” Birnbaum’s vision? To create extraordinary pieces made with the “rarest of the rare” gems and offer the kind of exceptional personal service to match the quality of the jewels. Rare 1 showcases the largest selection of extraordinary collectibles at a private and discreet New York City salon - and boasts a worldwide clientele of super-discerning individuals. Prior to founding Rare 1, Birnbaum was a name principal at Andor & David Birnbaum, Inc., globallyknown as De Beers’ Sightholders. Rare 1, as a concept, deals in 10-250 carat gems: D colour, pink and blue diamonds, of vivid and intense luminosity, and sells to heads of state, billionaires, VIPs and private collectors. “We have the very top selection in the world, by far.” The firm equally offers a uniquely bespoke design service and is often called upon to create a piece around an extremely rare gem. The making of the carefully conceived and designed jewels is entrusted to a specific team best suited for each individual project. Birnbaum’s name is on every single piece by way of exclusive branding and quality certification. Rare, high spec gems are, of course, an investment, as well as a statement on the part of the owner/ wearer. Says Birnbaum: “95% of the investment is in the key center rare beauty gem.” “We look for both the visual and the technical when we source our gems; we need to be at the apex on both parameters.” The Birnbaum Rare 1 pieces have a classic, timeless look about them and let the gemstones shine. They are timeless, tailored, contemporary classics. Given the iconic status of the jewels, the brand sets great store by its legacy, defined by Birnbaum himself in these three words: Extraordinary. Timeless. Rare. The best contact mode for clients is by email: David.Birnbaum.NY@gmail.com
Blue Diamond (loose) 25+ carat Fancy Blue Pear Shape / Internally Flawless Diamond
109 Blue Diamond (in ring) 10+ carat Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond / Pear Shape / Premium Clarity
110 Pink Diamond 25+ carat Fancy Orange Pink Heart Shape / Internally Flawless Diamond
111 Heart Shape Diamond 100+carat Heart Shape Diamond / D Flawless
“We look for both the visual and the technical when we source our gems; we need to be at the apex on both parameters.” 113
114 Pear Shape Diamond “The Jordanna” 45 carat Fancy Vivid Pink / Pear Shape Diamond/ VVS 1 / GIA Lab
115 Diamond Bracelet Rare 1 Designer Bracelet / 12 Pear Shape/ D Color diamonds / Premium Clarity / average size 8 carats each / 95+ carats total diamond weight / in custom-crafted platinum
“An art jewel should give the impression that it is speaking directly and intimately to its intended recipient.” – Katerina Perez