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A personal journey down la Rue Mouffetard

pa•limp•sest something that has changed over time and shows evidence of the change something layered

“The taxi went up the hill passed the lighted square on into the dark, still climbing, then levelled out onto a dark street behind St. Etienne du Mont, went somoothly down the asphalt, passed the trees and the standing bus at the place de la Contrescarpe, then turned onto the cobbles of the Rue Mouffetard. The were lighted bars and late open shops on each side of the street. We were sitting part and jolted close together going down the street.�

Ernest Hemingway,A Moveable Feast, 1964

La rue

Les Nicknames & Nasty stories

Cinquième arrondissement of Paris. One of the oldest and liveliest neighbourhoods. The area around Rue Mouffetard is relatively unchanged do to the location and was protected from Baron Haussmanns’s development. Rue Mouffetard dates back to the middel ages and is mainly a pedestrian street today. The french word moufette means skunk and relates to the plague. In the old days this was an unhealty district.

Montefétard Maufetard Mouftrad Mofetard Mostard Moftard Rue Mouffetrad is called “La Mouffe”of the inhabitants and the names has changed through the many years.

Picture taken 10.45 am

La Mouffe - this is my street. I live just there by the restaurant on the right. This is what the street looks like at noon.

Ernest Hemigway lived in the area just outside la Place Contrescarpe and here he wrote some of his irst novels. “ Then there was bad weather. It would come in one day when the fall was over. You would have to shut the window in the night against the rain and the cold wind would strip the leaves from the tree in the Place de la Contrescarpe�

Ernest Hemingway,A Moveable Feast, 1964

Le famous something

Le map

La Mouffe La Mouffe


Picture taken about dawn

La Mouffe by dawn a Sunday. In some hours it will be buzzing with people leaving and coming for work and the smell of crepes will ill the air.

All the surfaces All the textures All the history All the stories All the layers All the inhabitants breathing living loving eating meeting leaving me memories

Picture taken 4.24 am

Les memories de La Mouffe...

Picture taken 2.44 pm

Let me start my adventure into La Mouffe into the palimpsest of memories...

Picture taken 4.24 am

Les chiens Dogs are simply everywhere I go in La Mouffe. Some are small and luffy. Some are big and scary. Some follow their owner around and about.

Picture taken 4.24 am



Picture taken 4.24 pm


Layers of love

bisous bisous bisous bisous bisous bisous bisous bisous bisous bi

Picture taken 4.42 pm

Paris is s called the city of love and La Mouffe could easily be the street of l’amour within Paris.

Pictures around midnight

Pictures taken past midnight

I caught un couple amoureux just near place Contrescarpe.

Stories of the street

from the people I met & one silly cat

La communication

Le tourist

What are you doing right now ? I’m a tourist from Israel. I’m here with my father on a holiday. I like this area and we live near by rue Mouffetard. What do you like about the street? I like that there is a lot of different people here both tourists like myself and the people of Paris. I like the small houses, the bars, and the restaurants. I just like the


Have you been here many times -in rue mouffetard ? Yes! Like I said I always live near by this area, near place Contrescarpe.

Pictures taken about 2 am...a silly sunday

Do you know any history regarding this street ? I know that it’s very old and that it has a lot history but I have not looked into that yet.

what are you doing here ? I’m in rue mouffetard because I study near here, in La Sorbonne. What do you know about the street ? I know it was a popular street.

Now it’s more “bourgeois”

what do you like about the street ? I like it because it’s a lively street where we can ind all we need. There are a lot of shops, cafés, restaurants.

This is my neighbor Sarah & she is very smart!


What are you doing right now ? I work...haha, I work here and have been for two month now. What do you like about the street? I know a lot of students come here at night and a lot of tourists in the summertime. I also like that there are a lot of different people here. I know the street is one of the oldest of Paris. Do you know any history regarding this street ? No just that it is very old. You can see that by the buildings here. What more do you like about this place ? I meet a lot of people because I work here and that’s nice! I like coming here when I’m off work too. This place reminds me

of my homeland Libya and it’s so lively!


Pictures taken a slow monday around 6 pm

Le worker

Picture taken 8.44 am...miaou!

Le silly chat

what are you doing here ? Who?! Yes you, what are you doing right now ? I’m looking at you looking at me! What does it look like I’m doing! What do you know about the street ?

Well I know some people stop and stare at me like I’m some kind of an oddball... and then they start talking to me with a very weird voice. Some even take pictures of me...why?!!! what do you like about the street ? I don’t know! I sit here all day when I’m not sleeping that is... which reminds me I’m so tired with all this talking to you. I have no futher comments to your silly questions!

Crepes, cigs & chocolat chaud...Merci

Eating in La Mouffe is always a treat!

La cuisine

A crepe with a cup of chocolat chaud...every day keeps the doctor away!

Cuisine eaten some lazy sunday afternoon

fo rm id ab le

only a sip back

Picture taken about 2 am...very happy

The cigs, the red wine, les lèvres rouges going out on la mouffe is a moveable feast for me.

Cuisine eaten a thursday afternoon...avec plaisir

su pe rb e

A croissant I bought at my local boulangerie. They make the best ones. It looks so innocent but be aware! It contains about 300 calories!

l’adresse; 123 rue Mouffetard 75005 Paris

I fu alw mo nny ays us se placeat au e d my ch own con oc ol theit d at e fo stre can r de et ard se rt

in i

l’adresse; 83, rue Mouffetard 75005 Paris

Cuisine eaten 4 pm

at an a li d c’ thettle es t n I tr es have bo n. a

Lost things &

Something lost & found

lost characters in my notebook...

something loved is never lost remember that

Ernest Hemingway,A Moveable Feast, 1964

“ You belong to me and all Paris belongs to me and I belong to this noteboke and this pencil.�

Lost things found by me

ar re t

La Mouffe is my street,

my adventure & memeories

and it has forever changed me


Carina Ellen, 2014

Ernest Hemingway,A Moveable Feast, 1964

“ If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young (wo)man, then whereever you go for the rest of your life it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.”







By Carina Ellen

Palimpsest of memories  

A personal journey down la Rue Mouffetard