Cara October/November 2016

October/November 2016 CARA Magazine October/November 2016 James Vincent McMorrow

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

Irish Illustrators Midlands

LAND LOUGHED

Rome Manchester

In Praise of the Irish Midlands

TRUE NORTH Mouthwatering Manchester

LA Coast

ROMAN CONQUEST Acing the Italian Capital

Vienna Christmas Markets

GRAPHIC GREATS

WE MEET IRISH ILLUSTRATORS

WEST COAST COOLER Los Angeles Beach Life

The Right Moves

JAMES VINCENT McMORROW GETS HIS GROOVE ON

Welcome to Ireland from AIB Corporate Banking

Mick Murray Head of AIB International Corporate Banking mick.j.murray@aib.ie or +353 (1) 641 4248

Simon Scroope Head of AIB Corporate Banking simon.p.scroope@aib.ie or +353 (1) 641 4219

Ireland’s No.1 Bank for Inward Investment.

AIB International Corporate Banking can help you build a powerful presence in Ireland.

As the leading Inward Investment bank, we land more international business than any other, and we’ve helped some of the world’s most recognisable brands thrive.

To see how our dedicated team can work with you, contact Simon or Mick.

Source: AIB has the largest market share of day to day banking relationships amongst foreign direct investment companies, Ipsos MRBI AIB Foreign Direct Investment Research, February 2014.

Allied Irish Banks, p.l.c. is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland.

CONTENTS October/November 2016

88

Check in 06 WELCOME Get comfy for the very latest Aer Lingus news

Leisurely LA

08 ARRIVALS We meet and greet newcomers to Dublin Airport’s T2 11

CHECK IN Calendars at the ready for our edit of the season’s best events

24 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Places that make mezzo soprano Sarah Richmond’s heart sing 26 WEEKENDER Fionn Davenport discovers white asparagus in Bordeaux 28 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican’s best reads, downloads and screen news 30 5 GOOD REASONS Eoin Higgins’ figurative traipse around the Algarve 32

FOOD FOR THOUGHT Aoife Carrigy samples this year’s Food on the Edge

46

34 HAUNTING HOTSPOTS Lisa Marie Griffith and Ciarán Wallace’s dastardly Dublin for Halloween

Drawing Forth

36 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO BOSTON Massachusetts marvels

by Eleanor Costello

Features 38 POWER PLAY James Vincent McMorrow waxes lyrical with Tony Clayton-Lea

62

46 ILLUSTRIOUS CROWD Niamh O’Donoghue profiles Irish illustrators

Roamin’ Rome

54 HIDDEN HEART Pól Ó Conghaile explores the lesser-spotted Irish midlands 62 CIAO CHOW When in Rome ...

Roisin Agnew shows us the sights 78

THE FULL MANC Food writer Emma Sturgess gets a mouthful in Manchester

88 A SHORE THING Lucy White dips a toe into LA’s coastline

78

Mancunian Munchies

Regulars

Business

70

109 BUSINESS & LIFE Jamie Blake Knox’s Viennese whirl

YOU SAY, WE SAY Our edit of your favourite cocktail bars

98 5 BEST CHRISTMAS MARKET CITIES Lauren Heskin gets festive 106 48 HOURS IN LONDON Neil Hegarty’s best of the English capital 125 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT On-board information and entertainment 152 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Roving wildlife cameraman Doug Allen

116 A DAY IN THE LIFE Stephen Bell of Bell Lane Artisan Coffee Roaster 118 TRAVEL HOT LIST Lisa Hughes on the latest gadgets, hotels and networking events 120 SLEEPS & EATS Sheila Wayman on Chicago’s PUBLIC 122 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Virginia Fortune on work and play

Welcome to BROWN THOMAS the home of the world’s leading luxury brands...

Alaïa • Alexander McQueen • Bottega Veneta Canali • Céline • Chloé • Christian Dior Dolce & Gabbana • Ermenegildo Zegna Givenchy • Gucci • Hermès • Louis Vuitton Marc Jacobs • Saint Laurent Paris Stella McCartney • Tom Ford Valentino • Victoria Beckham

... the very best Irish brands ...

Cloon Keen Atelier • Foxford Woollen Mills Heidi Higgins • J.W. Anderson • KDK • Lucy Nagle Louise Kennedy • Mariad Whisker • Mary Gregory Paula Rowan • Richard Malone Sphere One by Lucy Downes • Waterford Crystal

... and the destination for beauty.

Armani • Bobbi Brown • CHANEL • Charlotte Tilbury Dior • Jo Malone London • La Prairie • La Mer Laura Mercier • MAC • Nars • Sisley Tom Ford • Yves Saint Laurent

CONTRIBUTORS eDITorIal editor Lucy white Deputy editor eoin higgins Junior editor Lauren heskin sub-editor sheila wayman editorial assistant eoin Mulligan contributors sean Breithaupt, tony Clayton-Lea, Fionn Davenport, Mark Duggan, neil hegarty, Al higgins, Bridget hourican, Lisa hughes, Pól Ó Conghaile, Jamie Blake Knox, Kristin teig, Matthew thompson, Anthony woods

From intern at Le Cool Dublin to founder of indie magazine Guts, Roisin Agnew makes navigating the choppy waters of multimedia journalism look easy. The Irish-Italian Renaissance woman has grafted for the Irish Times, Vice, The Guardian, Lonely Planet, IMAGE Magazine and Prowlster, and is currently a researcher on David McWilliams’ new TV3 show Agenda. Turn to page 62 for Roisin’s love letter to her second city: Rome.

arT art Director Clare Meredith creative Director Bill o’sullivan

chief executive officer Clodagh edwards editorial Director Jessie Collins editor at large Laura george editorial consultant Ann reihill BoarD oF DIrecTors chairman Patrick Dillon Malone Directors Laura george, robert Power, gina traynor, raymond reihill, sam Power

herwICK

aDmINIsTraTIoN Financial controller Brett walker accounts manager Lisa Dickenson credit controller Angela Bennett

Emma Sturgess is a freelance writer who trained at Ballymaloe Cookery School in Cork. Since leaving Darina Allen’s patch of paradise, she has sought out brilliant food and drink stories from Jersey to New York, working as an awardwinning restaurant critic, features journalist and copywriter. A deeply-held passion for her home city of Manchester, she offers a foodie guide on page 78, asking some of this year’s food movers and shakers why they love it, too.

eLenA he At

aDVerTIsING advertising manager Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie advertising copy contact Derek skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie

Dublin-born Niamh O’Donoghue is a journalist at IMAGE Publications, and also a photographer, videographer and musician. Her passion for writing, fashion and creativity began in her teens when she dedicated much of her time to her blog, CulturedCuppa, and has since worked alongside some of the world’s biggest brands including Canon, Boohoo, Sony, Budweiser as well as publications including MFI Magazine. For her Cara debut on page 46, she profiles some of Ireland’s hottest illustrators.

PrINTING Boylan Print group orIGINaTIoN typeform

Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3 harbour square, Crofton road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9622; image.ie, email corinne.vaughan@image.ie.

Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAge Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAge Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAge Publications Ltd. October/November 2016

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.

IMAge Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the office of the Press ombudsman. to contact the Press ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie

COMpLIMeNtary COpy

Land Loughed In Praise of the Irish Midlands

romaN coNquesT Acing the Italian Capital

gRaPhIC gReaTS

We meeT IRISh ILLuSTRaToRS

IMAge Publications Ltd PUBLIshIng CoMPAnY oF the YeAr 2013 AND 2014 DIGITAL PRODUCT OF THE YEAR 2015

True NorTh Mouthwatering Manchester

coasTal loco Los Angeles Beach Life

The Right Moves

JAMes VInCent McMorrow gets hIs grooVe on

oN The coVer

James Vincent McMorrow photographed

by Matthew Thompson and assisted

by Daragh McDonagh at the National Concert Hall, Dublin.

Welcome to our new issue! We are to all yours. Feel free e away take this magazin rney. for your onward jou ur yo e lov o als uld We wo l feedback and trave photos via Twitter . @CARAMagazine

CARA Magazine October/November 2016

WELCOME ABOARD

As we enter into autumn, Aer Lingus offers plenty to look forward to in 2017, including its rapidly expanding transatlantic routes. elcome onboard and thank you for choosing to fly with Aer Lingus today. Autumn is the season when we reflect on the recent passing of summer, and when many of us start to make plans for our travels in the coming year. For those of you who are already dreaming of 2017 holidays, we have some very good news: we are already taking bookings for summer 2017 on our website, which contains a huge range of seasonal options, with over two million seats to the sun for sale out of Ireland.

Popular European holiday destinations, such as Faro, Barcelona, Bordeaux, Naples, Dubrovnik, Canary Islands and Málaga, pictured, all feature heavily in our 2017 programme but we also continue to grow our network of transatlantic flights. In summer 2017 we will operate our largest ever schedule of transatlantic flights with a widerthan-ever network of North American destinations, ranging from New York to Orlando to San Francisco and many more destinations in between.

We have been the fastest growing carrier operating across the North

W

Atlantic over the past six years and we continue to grow connectivity between the UK and North America – and between continental Europe and North America – through the expansion of our Dublin transatlantic gateway. Guests who choose Dublin as their preferred transfer gateway will continue to enjoy the benefits of US Customs and Border Protection Pre-Clearance ensuring that their arrival in the US is free of queues. This will be particularly pleasing to Irish rugby fans heading out to Chicago to see our national team play the New Zealand All Blacks on November 5 at the Soldier Field stadium.

As the official airline sponsor of Irish rugby, we hope that sending fans over will give our lads a “Home Advantage”!

But back to our 2017 focus. We will to continue to deliver service improvements in the areas of guest comfort and punctuality. We recently became the only Irish airline to achieve the prestigious Skytrax four-star rating and we intend to continue to earn each of those four stars.

So start planning a new year to look forward to by checking out our summer 2017 offering at aerlingus.com.

Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus

EASY RYDER Fore! Aer Lingus is delighted have Ryder Cup Captain Darren Clarke as the airline’s sports ambassador. To mark the recent announcement, he treated lucky cabin crew to a putting masterclass.

BORN TO RUN It’s official: Aer Lingus is the World’s Fastest Airline – at running.

In September, 17 staff members retained its crown at the annual BUD: Runway Run charity race held at Budapest Airport.

FALL INTO PLACE For the perfect autumnal break, jet off to Hartford, Connecticut – the heart of New England and Aer Lingus’ third new transatlantic route for 2016 after LA and Newark.

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WHO? Laura Portbled and Alexia Pollet FLYING IN FROM ... Marseille ALEXIA SAYS ...

“We’re beginning our Erasmus year, we’re off to Athlone to study commerce.”

WHO? Alessandra and Sandro Flashmob FLYING IN FROM ... Milan SANDRO SAYS ...

“I’m a DJ and we’re over to play a few gigs in Galway and Cork before heading to the UK.”

WHO? James Pearson FLYING IN FROM ... San Francisco JAMES SAYS ...

“My co-traveller missed her flight but it’s okay, I’m here! I’m going to rent a car and head west anyway.”

ARRIVALS

From road-trippers to festivalgoers ... Cara was at Dublin Airport to greet the jet-setters.

WHO? Colette Fahy FLYING IN FROM ...

Hamburg COLETTE SAYS ... “I was in Berlin first to check out some of the Biennale exhibits and then went to Hamburg to see a friend.”

WORDS BY LAUREN HESKIN / PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANTHONY WOODS

WHO? Ute Fiederer and Stephan Memmesheimer FLYING IN FROM ...

Frankfurt STEPHAN SAYS ... “I’m wearing a Scotland shirt but I’m German. The Irish like the Scots, right?”

WHO? Perrine Aubert FLYING IN FROM ... Marseille PERRINE SAYS ... “I’ve got big bags with me because I’m staying in Ireland for four months to study.”

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WHO? Jeronimo Suárez and Charlotte Lister FLYING IN FROM ...

Reno via San Francisco CHARLOTTE SAYS ... “Sorry about the dust, we’re just back from Burning Man.”

WHO? Richard Stang FLYING IN FROM ...

Frankfurt RICHARD SAYS ... “I’m here until Sunday to attend a conference on adult education in Maynooth.”

THE NEW US PRECLEARANCE LOUNGE AT DUBLIN AIRPORT

HAVE A NICER DAY

dublinairport.com

Blarney Castle & Gardens Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence. See and feel Ireland’s heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains.

Take the time to enjoy our MAGICAL GARDENS.

Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday - Sunday 9 - 6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie c

c

c

Find out what’s on, where and when in October and November 2016

JEFF EDEN

Check in

ALL THAT GLISTENS ...

Ease into the festive season gently this November 23 at the shimmering, twinkling Christmas at Kew event in London that runs until January 2, 2017. A far cry from the kitsch of LED Christmas trees and “animated” reindeers, this annual installation comprises more than 60,000 lights across a tasteful and innovative Illuminated Trail that includes a Tunnel of Light, Crystal Tree and a Fire Garden, while the whole family can sing-song merrily on high at the Kew Christmas Karaoke Juke Box. Rumour has it a certain red-outfitted, white-bearded, elf-flanked chap will be heading to the North Pole Village, while lovebirds will adore the Mistletoe Moments exhibit. Ding dong! kew.org

Compiled by Eoin Higgins, Eoin Mulligan and Sheila Wayman.

STAY

4 DELICIOUS DESTINATIONS FOR FOOD LOVERS

©2

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Luxury havens that make palate-pleasing their business ...

Le Bristol, Paris

Home to four Michelin stars in its restaurants Epicure and 114 Faubourg, this luxurious Parisian hotel holds nothing back when it comes to tantalising the tastebuds. Helmed by Eric Frechon and his 110-strong brigade of appetite-appeasing chefs, you’re guaranteed a meal to remember, forever.

Rooms from €850. lebristolparis.com

Cliff House, Ardmore

Ireland’s one and only fivestar seaside hotel also has a Michelin-starred restaurant under its belt, making it almost a constellation. With head chef Martijn Kajuiter at the helm of its The House eatery, expect something new and exciting every time you visit – with ocean views the cherry on top.

Rooms from €195. thecliffhousehotel.com

Rome Cavalieri, Rome

Nestled up high in the Eternal City, this scenic spot from the Waldorf Astoria stable boasts Rome’s first and only triplestarred Michelin restaurant, La Pergola, run by chef Heinz Beck.

Known for his peerless and creative cuisine, Beck creates dishes that are as handsome as the restaurant’s panoramas.

Rooms from €267. romecavalieri.com

Town Hall Hotel, London Edwardian on the

outside and Art Deco on the inside, this Bethnal Green bolthole is certainly stylish. It also excels on the food front, its Typing Room restaurant offering five- and seven-course tasting menus – with wine pairing options – while its sister eatery, the Corner Room, is also wonderfully inventive. Rooms from £146. townhallhotel.com

FILM

GRAPE FUN A celebration of film, food and wine lights up the picturesque Californian towns of Napa, Yountville, St Helena and Calistoga for the Napa Valley Film Festival, November 9-13.

More than 125 new independent films and sneak-previews are being screened in venues throughout four villages that are, thankfully, easily navigated on foot. napavalleyfilmfest.org

BIKE TOUR

SADDLE UP Trees are ablaze with colour at this time of year along Boston’s “Emerald Necklace” – a chain of green spaces around the city. Bike company Urbanadventours offers a Fall Foliage tour but, take note, cyclists need to be comfortable with spending at least three-anda-half hours in the saddle and covering up to 24 kilometres. urbanadventours.com 12 |

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ETHAN HART

ART

STREET BRED ARCHITECTURE

BEHIND CLOSED DOORS There’s a chance to gawk inside the once-derelict waterside warehouse that has been faithfully restored and renovated to become Airbnb’s new international hub, above, or check out Facebook’s contemporary European headquarters designed by Frank Gehry and Daniel Libeskind, during Open House Dublin on October 14-16. Buildings of all periods and types open their doors to all-comers free of charge under the theme “The Presence of the Past”. openhousedublin.com

People are notable by their absence in the paintings of the award-winning artist Francis Matthews, whose first solo exhibition at Dublin’s Molesworth Gallery runs November 3-30. After studying architecture at University College Dublin, he decided to pursue a career as a fine art painter. His work explores the streets and hidden laneways of nighttime Dublin, with a distinctive eye for lighting and buildings. molesworthgallery.com

Breast Cancer Awareness SUPPORT SYSTEM October is National Lingus will raise Month in Ireland. From October 24-31, Aer running on-board awareness for Breast Cancer Research by icipating in the SSE collections, while staff members are part ber 30. We wish them luck!

Airtricity Dublin Marathon 2016 on Octo

ART.

JAMÓN JAMÓN

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CHILDREN

TREW TO FORM

THE ESTATE OF FRANCIS BACON

The influence of Spanish culture on the work of Irish-born figurative artist Francis Bacon (1909-1992) is explored in a new exhibition at the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. Francis Bacon: From Picasso to Velázquez presents a selection of nearly 90 of his most compelling paintings, including many rarely exhibited works, alongside those by artists who influenced his career.

Runs until January 8 2017. guggenheim-bilbao.es

Flying suitcases, dancing feet, vanishing queens, curious giants, toe-tapping tunes and a warehouse of wonders are just some of the treats in store for babies, children and adults at the 20th Baboró International Arts Festival For Children in Galway this October 17-23.

Check out Monkeyshine Theatre’s production of Voyage – based on Gulliver’s Travels – an electrified, big-hearted epic and part of a number of superb shows coming to town for this creative extravaganza, which makes memories in little minds for life. baboro.ie

2015 Europe's Leading Tourist Attraction

DIASPORA

PICTURE PERFECT Illustrator Kevin Waldron swapped Dublin for London before eventually throwing down roots in New York. He is best known for his children’s books, among them his own yarns Pandamonium at Peek Zoo and Mr Peek and the Misunderstanding at the Zoo (Templar Publishing), and more recently Harold’s Hungry Eyes (Phaidon Press Limited), which was released this summer. He has also created artwork for Angela McAllister’s take on Edward Lear’s The Owl and the Pussycat (Simon & Schuster) and Michael Rosen’s Tiny Little Fly (Walker Books). kevinwaldron.co.uk. For more on Irish illustrators, turn to page 46.

Why did you leave Ireland? It was always my intention to live abroad and really I had no choice when I finished college in Dublin. I left for London to study for an MA in illustration and to take advantage of the opportunities there to start a career. Roughly six years later I emigrated to New York.

Where do you like to spend your downtime? My wife and I like camping in the national parks – we just got back from Joshua Tree and Big Sur in California. At weekends I like to go for five-hour walks with a friend, exploring the boroughs of New York on foot.

Also, recently I became obsessed with animated shorts and would show what I found on my friend’s projector once a week.

What do you miss about Ireland?

My family.

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“Because I approach each project differently, it’s a bit like inventing a new language” Favourite hometown haunts? I’m afraid that I don’t have any! I just want to see family and friends. My wife is American and she loves to visit the countryside with us. Last Christmas we stayed close to the Flaggy Shore, in Co Clare, for a few days. My favourite bar in New York though is Great Jones Cafe.

Have you always been a doodler?

Oh yes! Drawing is all I’ve ever wanted to do.

What is your favourite commission?

Each children’s book I make is, at the time, my favourite. They can take a long time to

finish but immersing myself in a world I created in my head is challenging and rewarding.

Because I approach each project differently it’s a bit like inventing a new language – how would a mountain or a cake look in this world?

Who are the illustrators and creatives that inspire you?

When I was in college in London there was a long list of illustrators whose work I pored over. Tomi Ungerer and Saul Steinberg were my absolute favourites. Now I’m a bit more like a magpie that sees shiny things here and there – lettering on an old shop sign, folk art, old books left on a stoop ...

What’s been the biggest challenge about working in New York? I’ve never thought of it that way.

There are only positives and inspiration to be harnessed. Oh no, wait … rent! Our building just got sold and we can’t afford our neighbourhood anymore so rent will be the biggest challenge.

How does NYC inspire your work? There are lots of very talented people here. It’s easy to become impatient with the pace of the city but that energy is infectious.

If you could live and work anywhere else in the world where would it be? Kyoto.

We visited Japan last year and it was just incredible.

We travelled around the country on the bullet train – I’ve never done so much and been so relaxed at the same time.

It took me quite a while to reacclimatise to New York.

Liam Quirke Partnership Chairman Head of Brexit Advisory Group

Matheson. The law firm of choice for internationally focused companies and financial institutions doing business in and from Ireland.

Liam Quirke is the Partnership Chairman of Matheson. He is also the head of Matheson’s London office and leads the firm’s Brexit Advisory Group.

Matheson concentrates on meeting the Irish legal needs of internationally focused companies and financial institutions doing business in and from Ireland.

We have invested in growing our strength where our clients are located and are the only Irish law firm with partner-level financial services expertise in Dublin, London, New York and Palo Alto.

To find out more, contact:

London – Liam Quirke, Partnership Chairman and Head of Brexit Advisory Group liam.quirke@matheson.com

European Law Firm of the Year The Hedge Fund Journal 2015

New York – John Ryan, Head of US Offices john.ryan@matheson.com

Financial Times 2012-2015 Matheson is ranked in the FT’s top 10 European law firms 2015. Matheson has also been commended by the FT for corporate law, finance law, dispute resolution and corporate strategy.

Palo Alto – Mark O’Sullivan, Partner mark.osullivan@matheson.com

London

New York

International Tax Review 2016 Winner, Eight Deals of the Year, including in M&A, Debt Capital Markets, Loans and Financing Finance Dublin 2016

Dublin – Michael Jackson, Managing Partner michael.jackson@matheson.com

Dublin

Irish Tax Firm of the Year European M&A Tax Deal of the Year

Palo Alto

www.matheson.com

TECH

THE SUMMITEERS Incubated in Dublin over the last five years, the Web Summit has flown the coop for Lisbon this year. More than 50,000-plus attendees from 150 countries are expected at the global tech jamboree in the Portuguese capital on November 7-10, where the summits within the summit include those dedicated to data and design as well as to sport and security – not forgetting the all-important afterhours pub crawls. websummit.net

ECONOMICS

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MUSICAL

BOWIE MAGIC The late lamented David Bowie lives on in the musical Lazarus (lazarusmusical.com) that he cowrote with Enda Walsh. Inspired by the Walter Tevis novel The Man Who Fell to Earth, Michael C Hall, above, reprises his Broadway role as Thomas Newton, from October 25 until January 22, 2017 at London’s Kings Cross Theatre.

Meanwhile, Dublin’s Olympia theatre hosts Starman: A David Bowie Celebration (olympia.ie) on October 16.

Human irrationality is a pet subject of the US-based behavioural economist Dan Ariely, one of the speakers at Kilkenomics (November 10-13), a tantalising melding of economics and comedy that has been dubbed “Davos with laughs”. The UK’s “undercover economist” Tim Harford and political philosopher John Gray are just two more of the many speakers who will be joining the likes of comedians Des Bishop and Karl Spain in Kilkenny city. kilkenomics.com

HALLOWEEN

Be Very Afraid Ireland gets spooky this Halloween, as Dublin’s Bram Stoker Festival (October 28-31; bramstokerfestival. com) revels in the Gothic horror of the author’s novels with live shows, screenings, music, and the eye-popping Samhain parade at twilight on October 31 by streettheatre company Macnas – a spectacle that their home city of Galway will witness the day before.

Meanwhile, Co Meath,

reputedly where Halloween began, makes the most of its notoriety with The Spirits of Meath Halloween Festival (October 15 to November 6; spiritsofmeath. com). In the city of Derry – voted the world’s best Halloween spot by USA Today readers – Out of this World festival (October 27-31; derrystrabane.com) culminates in a carnival and fireworks display on the banks of the Foyle.

MELTING MOMENTS Big Chocolatestyle, Show (October 8-9;returns thebigchocolateshow.com) and the Salon du PICNIC TIME Closing off the Irish festival season inNew trueYork’s mud-soaked-boots Electric Picnic for another three days Chocolatand in Paris (October 28 to 2-4.

November 1; salonduchocolat.fr) are both delicious diversions, offering tastings, talks of music, food, unfettered socialising art this September Lana Del Rey, LCD Soundsystem and The Chemical Brothers and comedy demos ofacts, the tasty latestfood choco innovations.

“To understand chocolate is to love it,” is the philosophy of the French ... are headlining alongside fringe stalls, art installations and a pop-up eco-village. electricpicnic.ie

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BLARNEY WOOLLEN MILLS

KNITWEAR

s i n c e 18 23

shop online @ blarney.com BLARNEY | BUNRATTY | TIPPERARY

Check in

Breakfast

Dubravka 1836, Dubrovnik While Dubravka’s food is well worth high praise, it’s the incredible sea views that ensure locals and tourists alike flock here.

It’s a very trendy spot and for good reason. The Mediterranean breakfast specials are fantastic and a perfect example of authentic Med’ gastronomy. “Breakfast Dubrovnik” includes Dalmatian honey, Dalmatian prosciutto, aged cheese and wild berries. I can’t think of a better start to a day in paradise than enjoying this cuisine, coupled with an espresso and those amazing vistas. nautikarestaurant.com

Lunch

PHOTOGRAPH BY EOIN HIGGINS

Joël Robuchon, Paris Dining in this world famous restaurant is such an amazing experience. It was recommended to me by my friend, waiter Barry McEvoy. The signature dish, Purée de Pommes de Terre, is an example of French cuisine at its finest. The whole dining experience is so immersive. We ate sitting at long, communal counter tops, around an open kitchen overlooking the chefs who were working just in front of us. It was wonderful to have the focus solely on the food and customers are encouraged to observe the preparation of the phenomenal Robuchon dishes. joel-robuchon.com

FOOD

FOOD FLIGHT Peter Clifford is following in the footsteps of his late father, the renowned Irish chef Michael Clifford, with a passion for seasonal, creative cuisine at his newly opened restaurant, Fennel (fennelrestaurant.com) in Dublin’s Drumcondra. Here is his fantasy itinerary for a day of fine food indulgence.

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Dinner

Gordon Ramsay, London A restaurant I am well accustomed to, having worked there. The quality of food and service – the best I have ever experienced – is unparalleled. Try the signature dish: salmon ravioli, it’s highly memorable. Similarly, the pigeon main course is a delight. One of its best attributes though is the cheese board, which includes more than 60 different types – even the most avid cheese connoisseurs would be impressed. gordonramsayrestaurants.com

Drinks

Peruke & Periwig, Dublin The expertly mixed “Around the World in 80 Cocktails” menu ensures that no matter what your tipple is, you’ll find something that suits your palate here. They also do pretty tasty bar snacks for people who are feeling peckish.

The decor is unapologetically vintage Victorian and this just adds to the charm of the place. The atmosphere is also quite relaxing – perfect after a long day. peruke.ie

finder

#CARA VIEW

FRANCE “This picture was taken at La Fondation Louis Vuitton during a spontaneous weekend trip to Paris. We stumbled upon this towering, incredible sculpture in a hidden gallery, devoid of the crowds. The only way to capture its presence was to juxtapose it to ourselves, making for a great shot.”

Bridget Gormley, Brooklyn; @jagomajo

You Fly Smart. You’re social. Make friends with Cara (@CARAMagazine) and Aer Lingus (@AerLingus) on social media and share your destination selfies and holiday snaps via the #CaraViewFinder hashtag. When you see something, share it and you could be in with a chance to get published in Cara magazine.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Paris three times per day, and from Cork once daily.

NETHERLANDS “I took the picture at the House of Bols museum in Amsterdam – a cocktail experience that tells about the history of the Bols company, the worlds oldest distilled spirit brand. I loved their display of the bottles with all the different colours.”

Jodi Davidson, Aberdeen; @elizabeth135_

FRANCE “This photo was taken at the Musée de l’Orangerie in Paris. My friend Hedvig was investigating this painting from Monet’s Water Lilies series and I loved the colour of her terracotta coat in contrast to the cool hues of blue and indigo. I work in fashion design, so love colour palettes such as this.”

Hannah Fickling, London; @HannahGeorge

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Amsterdam daily.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Paris three times per day, and from Cork once daily.

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OVER TO YOU

Discover and share Aer Lingus and Cara destination sights and insights by tagging your public Instagram and Twitter photos #CaraViewFinder

ITALY “This photo was taken when I was in Sicily. My wife and I were out for a walk when I spotted just a part of the mural, but once we entered the parking lot we were stunned. It was an amazing piece of work.”

George Kolo, Gzira @geokol13

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Catania twice weekly in October.

SCOTLAND “This picture was taken at the Underbelly venue at the fringe festival in Edinburgh. My friend, Hannah Rosley (left), and I (centre) were visiting our friend Eleanor Juby (right) for the weekend.”

Nikki Amram, London @nikkiamram

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Edinburgh five times daily, and from Cork and Shannon daily.

ITALY “This was taken at Poggio Piglia hotel on a dreamy September day in Tuscany, enjoying the last few days of our holiday having travelled through Croatia, Montenegro and Italy. We flew Dublin to Dubrovnik and back from Pisa to Dublin.”

Nicola McNair, Belfast; @nicmcnair

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Pisa three times per week from May 2017.

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HOLIDAY HEAVEN WOULD START WITH ... A little lie-in before a day of pre-planned activities to make the most of wherever I am. I’d love to visit the cobbled streets of Amsterdam, browse the famous flower market, have a singing lesson at the Dutch National Opera, take a trip around the Van Gogh Museum and catch a concert in the Muziekgebouw in the evening.

“My three fan tasy travel comp anions are: Michael McIn tyre, I love to laugh; Bear G rylls, because you never know wha t might happ en on an adven ture; and the A merican conduc tor and p ianist James Levine”

THE MOST UNUSUAL PLACE I’VE EVER PERFORMED IN ... Was filming Songs of Praise with Voices of Ireland in a Co Tyrone barn, hoping the candles wouldn’t blow over and set the hay on fire. My performance venues have ranged from big arenas, such as the RDS in Dublin and the SSE Arena, Belfast, when I was soloist with the Cross Border Orchestra of Ireland, to small restaurants.

And as a wedding singer I’ve been fortunate to perform in stunning chapels and churches all over the country.

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MY FAVOURITE OPERA CITIES ARE ... New York for The Met, Munich for the Bayerische Staatsoper and Finland for the Savonlinna Opera Festival (and I definitely have to go here to see the Aurora Borealis). Anywhere in Italy is also a firm musical holiday favourite.

MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Belfast-born mezzo-soprano SARAH RICHMOND has collaborated with all the big gun opera companies, including Pavilion Opera, NI Opera/Nevill Holt Opera, Wide Open Opera, and Nader Abbassi at North West Opera. She’ll perform in William Walton’s The Bear as part of the 2016 Wexford Festival Opera (wexfordopera.com), which runs from October 26 to November 6.

IF I COULD FLY ANYWHERE TOMORROW ... I’d visit the dream team of director Fabio Ceresa and costume designer Giuseppe Palella preparing Rigoletto at the Theatre Kiel, Germany. Working with them as Willie in Mascagni’s Guglielmo Ratcliff was a delight. I’d sail on the canal and visit the Maritime Museum.

THE MOST SURPRISING PLACE I’VE VISITED IS ... Soriano nel Cimino in Italy. I went there to study my craft and it was beautiful. I stayed in a convent and was really surprised when one of the nuns came out every morning to do yoga with me in the sun.

At home with perfection.

Created with simple, clear forms.

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GO SMART | BORDEAUX

Reign of Terroir Fionn Davenport finds Bordeaux’s Hotel Le Saint-James very much to his taste. he best of Bordeaux often lies just outside it. In this case, in the small village of Bouliac, 10 kilometres southeast of Bordeaux, on a hill overlooking the city from the other side of the Garonne.

I make my way up to discover a hamlet that doesn’t seem to have changed much since the 19th century – at first glance this is a typical French country village with a boulangerie, a church and, next to it, the monument to the fallen dead of the First World War. On the edge of the village is an 18th-century longère, or farmhouse, which since the Second World War has been home to a restaurant famed for its fine cuisine and even finer views, with diners coming from all over to eat in the “Balcony of Bordeaux”.

In 1989 the restaurant was transformed into the Hotel Le Saint-James by local “starchitect” Jean Nouvel, who redesigned the farmhouse and added four rustcoloured pavilions to echo the tobacco barns that once dotted the region. Meanwhile, glass soaks the 18 rooms and suites in light: all have full-length, floor-to-ceiling windows that open up onto the hotel’s own vineyard and, beyond it, the shimmering lights of Bordeaux.

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Straddling the line between traditional and modern – literally, as it sits between the old bit and the new – the hotel’s restaurant gastronomique is where head chef Nicolas Magie turns out Michelin-starred cuisine to GET SET COOK a new generation of Rooms at the glorious gourmets. The food is Hotel Le Saint-James cost divine: the seven-course the perfect steak. I had from €275 in high season and taster menu is served in never even heard of white from €195 in low season. And if cascading waves of everasparagus, so how was you want to try your hand at fine increasing satisfaction.

I going to do something French cuisine, their half-day There was wild turbot, with a vegetable I didn’t cooking course costs preserved in veal juice with even know existed? around €75-85. a dash of lemon; lobster Célia soon put my grilled with lemon blossom in concerns to rest, and over carpaccio of cured Iberian pork; the next three hours I made a a breast of pigeon roasted gazpacho of asparagus, a beef Rich pickings in mulberry sheets and served tartare with foie gras and grilled – Hotel Le Saintwith beans, bacon and berries; asparagus, and a white asparagus James is a feast and more, climaxing in a crunchy risotto topped with a chicken fillet for both the eyes Dulcey and Guanaja dark chocolate stuffed with pistachios. We sat and and stomach. served with a yellow lemon ate our efforts in the garden with a gel, bitter cocoa opaline and a glass of fine wine. I took the recipes yuzu sorbet. home with me, but I’ve yet to make The next morning, I arrive them again: I think I may need to promptly at the hotel’s cooking go back for a refresher course ... school, the Côté Cour, where my instructor – Magie’s sous-chef, (3 Place Camille Hostein, +33 557 970 Célia Girard – announces the 600; saintjames-bouliac.com) theme of today’s half-day course: white asparagus. My first thought is disappointment. I had hoped for something a little more substantial Aer Lingus flies Dublin to Bordeaux four times per week. ... maybe learn the secret of cooking

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SHELF LIFE

Bridget Hourican browses new reads and looks forward to film adaptations and fresh podcasts.

ON READING

BY STEVE McCURRY (PHAIDON, HBK)

A babushka in her kitchen in Russia; a man in Rome selling pictures out of his car, left; two monks in a temple in Cambodia; a guy on the NY subway; a kid on the street in Myanmar – all doing one thing: reading. Travel writer Paul Theroux introduces these photos: “The selfpossession of the reader, the luminous gaze, the notion of solitude, the relaxed posture, the singularity of effort, the sense of discovery and a suggestion of joy.” Taken over many decades and in many countries, these are American photographer Steve McCurry’s homage to the great Hungarian photographer, André Kertész, who published his own book On Reading in 1971.

TRAVEL LOVE OF COUNTRY: A HEBRIDEAN JOURNEY by Madeleine Bunting (Granta, Hbk, ebook) Over six years, the former Guardian journalist travelled Scotland’s Hebrides islands, exploring their landscapes and histories, from ancient shipping routes to the writers and artists who settled on Jura and the monks inspired by remote Iona. At once a work of cultural and natural history, and politics, Bunting brings us their rich Gaelic tradition and relationship to Britain.

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SCREEN THRILLS GARDENING THE EXTRA ROOM by Diarmuid Gavin (Gill, Hbk, from October 14) The RTÉ and BBC gardener turns to the domestic space: your back yard. With diagrams, plans, pictures and photos, he demonstrates how to approach garden design, starting with an examination of what you have in the way of sun and soil and what inspires you. A clear, practical guide to getting the garden you want – whether with trees, shrubs, perennials, bulbs, grasses, ferns, bamboo, climbers …

BIOGRAPHY I READ THE NEWS TODAY, OH BOY by Paul Howard (Picador, Hbk, ebook, from October 20) Ross O’Carroll-Kelly’s chronicler turns to an even more gilded youth for this nonfiction account of the short, glamorous life of the Honorable Tara Browne, the Guinness scion who grew up in Luggala, Co Wicklow, was driven to school in a Rolls-Royce, hung out with the Stones, died in a car crash aged 21 and was immortalised in the Beatles’ song A Day in the Life.

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Two unmissable screen adaptations: opening on October 5 is Tate Taylor’s The Girl on the Train based on Paula Hawkins’ bestselling thriller and starring Emily Blunt, above, and Ang Lee’s film of Ben Fountain’s award-winning novel Billy Lynn’s Long Halftime Walk, with Kristen Stewart, which premieres on October 14 at the 54th New York Film Festival.

PODCAST SOUNDINGS The format is simple: broadcaster Dylan Haskins and singer-songwriter Lisa Hannigan are joined by a “holy Trinity” of guests who share their stories.

Soundings started as an RTÉ culture podcast in October 2013 and the following year launched as a live show. After a summer recording around the UK and Ireland, nine new shows will be released in November, featuring Sharon Horgan, David O’Doherty, Maeve Higgins, David Rawle (Moone Boy), Theo Dorgan, Olivia Chaney and Little Green Cars.

GO SMART | ALGARVE

5

Good Reasons to visit the Algarve this season.

Eoin Higgins dips his toe in its crystal-clear waters.

FOOD Portuguese food often doesn’t get the kudos it deserves. From simple, yet super tasty, dishes that pique the palate, to the top-end of Michelinstarred plushness, the region has a little something for most, if not all, taste seekers. Wine, too, is a winner – enticingly priced, hugely varied in style, and utterly drinkable – the Portuguese seem to keep most of the best stuff for themselves and you can see why.

GOLF Portugal is undoubtedly one of Europe’s leading golf destinations, with world-class links and courses scattered throughout the Algarve. There are more than 25 superb swinging locations, many of which were designed by golf titans such as Seve Ballesteros, Nick Faldo, Christy O’Connor Jnr. and Jack Nicklaus.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to FARO twice daily, from Belfast daily, from Cork five times per week and from Shannon twice weekly.

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FAT TI BURKE

CLIMATE In the summer months, temperatures soar on the Algarve – to uncomfortable heights for some. Ergo, with plenty of sun and average October/ November temperatures reaching a comfortably balmy 17 degrees Celsius, the Algarve is an especially pleasant spot at this time of year. And although there is an increase in rainfall, it’s nothing compared with Ireland’s end-of-year dampness.

BEACHES Europe’s most Instagramfriendly beach and the star of a thousand travel brochures, Praia da Marinha, combines a rich, golden strand; a perfectly turquoise-blue sea; ruggedly beautiful stacks of honey-coloured cliffs and crystal clear rock pools. And it’s not just picture-perfect – because Praia da Marinha is a little tougher to get to, it is typically bereft of madding crowds.

SURFING Bearing a coast littered with nooks, inlets, coves and crevasses where powerful Atlantic waves roll and crash under a golden sun, the Algarve is a great beginners’ surf spot. With lazy white-water rollers and breathy beach breaks, swells come in from all directions.

Plus, there are some world-class surf schools in which to hone your technique, such as Surf Experience (surf-experience.com) in Lagos.

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Food for Thought id you hear the one about Pierre Koffmann, Massimo Bottura and Danni Barry walking into a bar in Galway? It sounds like an in-joke for chefs and food anoraks.

After all, Koffmann is the industry legend who trained Gordon Ramsay and Marco Pierre White, Bottura the Netflix Chef ’s Table star and reigning top chef in the world as voted by his industry peers, and Barry is the twentysomething woman recently crowned Best Irish Chef by Food & Wine magazine for her masterful cooking at Deane’s EIPIC in Belfast. That’s the past, present and future of fine-dining right there. Surely they’ve more pressing things on their minds than sampling the albeit legendary nightlife of Ireland’s most charming Atlantic-sprayed village of a city?

In true Irish fashion, the answer is both yes and no. Along with a further 40 top-of-their-game Irish and international chefs, this illustrious trio will be in Galway this autumn to debate some pretty pressing questions at a TED-talk style chef’s symposium. As Matt Orlando of Copenhagen’s Amass Restaurant (and former head chef at Noma), says of the gathering:

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“Food on the Edge encourages us to take a look at the bigger picture by asking us the question – how will we be cooking in the future and with what kind of ingredients?”

Now in its second year, the ambitious event is the precocious brainchild of the densely tattooed, woolly bearded JP McMahon, a Dublin-born serial restaurateur, chef, food writer and high-achieving powerhouse who helped bring Michelin-star status to Galway. McMahon created Food on the Edge (FOTE) to provide a platform for chefs interested in working together to shape their world in a positive way. Delegates are flying in from as far afield as New York, Mexico, Singapore and Iceland to join the conversation.

Massimo Bottura will draw from his experience at the Rio Olympics, where he served up surplus food from each event in pop-up canteens that fed thousands of disadvantaged

WONDERFULIFE PRODUCTIONS

Cricket flour anyone? International chefs debate the future, reports Aoife Carrigy.

Top, Aniar head chef and FOTE forefather JP McMahon, and above, sunchoke, coffee and porcini by Sasu Laukkonen – one of the delicious dishes served at the 2016 launch.

locals. Advocates for various approaches to sustainability will attend, from veganism (Afro-Vegan advocate Bryant Terry) to the use of cricket flour as a source of protein (Canada’s Liana Robberecht) or the protection of heritage varieties of potato (Peru’s Virgilio Martínez).

Some are returnees, such as Icelandic chef Sasu Laukkonen who was inspired by last year’s FOTE to cut 10 hours a week from his chefs’ rosters to create a more sustainable work environment. Some are firsttimers, such as 20-year-old Irish chef and Koffmann protégé, Evan O’Ceallaigh.

Of course, no one gets out of Galway without sampling the local hospitality: there are serious spreads planned to showcase Ireland’s evolving food culture and the 5,000 years of farming on which it draws.

That’s no joke to pull off, but the impressive folk behind FOTE are the team for the job.

Food on the Edge takes place in Galway Town Hall on October 24-25. foodontheedge.ie

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STEFANIA SPADONI

TRUFFLING MATTERS Truffle season is one of the highlights of the gastronomic calendar and Alba in Langhe, north-western Italy (road trip from Milan Linate airport) is the place to celebrate this pungent, precious fungus. From October 8 to November 27, Alba’s 86th International White Truffle Festival hinges on the all-important truffle market at which serious monies are exchanged, but also includes a truffle show, truffle hunts and sensory analysis sessions at the National Truffle Study Centre. Get there for the third weekend in October to catch the Medieval Fair and Bacchanal festivities, which offer a portal to past traditions. fieradeltartufo.org

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Haunting Hotspots

Lisa Marie Griffith and Ciarán Wallace prowl around Dublin’s spookiest sites for Halloween.

GLASNEVIN CEMETERY. Home to more than one million Dubliners, this cemetery is best known today as the final resting place of Ireland’s national heroes such as Daniel O’Connell, Charles Stewart Parnell and Michael Collins. Glasnevin also has a grisly history.

The watch towers around the boundary wall were erected to make sure that grave robbers, or “sack ’em ups”, were kept out. glasnevintrust.ie

ILLUSTRATION BY FUCHSIA McAREE

SCARE STORY

ST MICHAN’S This cemetery, adjacent to the Old Jameson distillery in Dublin 7, is the resting place of many well-known local characters, but the church is most famous for its limestone crypt, which contains the morbidlyfascinating, mummified remains of bodies dating back to the 12th century.

Visitors can see the death mask of Wolfe Tone, leader of the 1798 rebellion, and also meet the Sheares brothers who were executed for their part in that revolution.

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MARSH’S LIBRARY Opened in 1701, Marsh’s is the oldest public library in Ireland. As well as having ancient books on its shelves, the library also has some figures from the past roaming its stacks. Narcissus Marsh, its founder, has been spotted still perusing his books.

Others have spotted a girl weeping, who is said to be Marsh’s niece. He refused to allow her to marry a sea captain, her one true love, and so she haunts the library until he changes his mind. marshlibrary.ie

DUBLIN CASTLE As the former seat of the British government, Dublin Castle is well known but its gruesome past is often overlooked: Catholics who refused to convert to the Protestant faith were locked up in the dungeon during the Reformation. Francis Taylor and Margaret Ball were two such figures who died here, as did the first fatality of the 1916 Rising.

Rebels, trying to seize the castle, shot and killed a policeman trying to close the gates against them. dublincastle.ie

Lisa Marie Griffith and Ciarán Wallace are editors of the book Grave Matters: Death and Dying in Dublin, 1500 to the Present (Four Courts Press, €24.95), out now.

BULLY’S ACRE Visitors to the Irish Museum of Modern Art in Kilmainham should take some extra time to visit Bully’s Acre, a graveyard said to date back to the Battle of Clontarf in 1014. Located just outside the city boundary, the cemetery became a pauper’s graveyard. Many Dublin Catholics were buried here after the Protestant Reformation.

Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland | Phone +353 1 602 8900 | ConradDublin.com

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Boston is not renowned for its nightlife, but it does boast some impressive local breweries and cocktail bars. Head to Cambridge for the city’s best, including BRICK & MORTAR (567 Massachusetts Avenue, +1 617 491 0016; brickandmortarltd.com), found up an unmarked stairway.

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO

BOSTON

Dubliner Eleanor Costello reveals its best bits.

NIC LEHOUX

It is said that you’ll find Boston’s best Italian dishes in the North End but the pizza at the DIRTY. WATER DOUGH CO is a strong competitor. This casual spot on Newbury Street is the perfect place to refuel after a hard day’s shopping. They also brew their own IPA and nothing beats their beer and slice combo. (222 Newbury Street, +1 617 262 0090; dirtywaterdough.com)

The highlight at the ISABELLA STEWART GARDNER MUSEUM is a bright, leafy Venetianinspired courtyard, left, surrounded by a maze of rooms filled with art from all over the world.

Beautifully curated, moving from space to space at the Gardner feels like time travel; its own history, including an unsolved theft, is just as intriguing.

(25 Evans Way, +1 617 566 1401; gardnermuseum.org)

MORE ABOUT ELEANOR Dublin born and bred, Eleanor Costello has previously worked as an editorial assistant on Cara. Inspired by all the adventures in the magazine, she headed to Boston where she has been living for the past year.

Before returning to Ireland this autumn, she has been travelling around America.

You can follow her escapades at @eleanorcos.

One of the best spots to window shop is the red-bricked Charles Street. Surrounded by wonderful cobbled side streets, here you’ll find antique stores and independent boutiques. A personal favourite is GOOD filled with modern, minimal fashion and homewares. (133 Charles Street, +1 617 722 9200; shopatgood.com)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to BOSTON twice daily, and from Shannon daily.

DON’T MISS

You will lose track of time browsing the outdoor stalls of BRATTLE BOOK SHOP in the “Fall” sun. This second-hand bookstore is even Instagram-worthy with literary murals and a giant pencil above the door. (9 West Street; brattlebookshop.com)

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A short train ride from the city centre lies the old fishing town of Manchester-by-the-Sea. There you’ll find the unspoiled SINGING BEACH named after the noise the sand makes when the wind blows by, this is worth the trip.

Dripping in history, Boston is full of signifcant landmarks – even in the most unexpected places.

PARADISE ROCK CLUB has been the debut Boston venue of many a successful band and is one of U2’s favourites. (967 Commonwealth Avenue; thedise.com)

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POWER PLAY

Nobody was more surprised than himself when Irish singer-songwriter James Vincent McMorrow entered the world of creative collaboration. The result of which is his new album We Move, which heads on tour this month.

WORDS TONY CLAYTON-LEA PHOTOGRAPHS MATTHEW THOMPSON

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here is something far more reassuring about popularity that gradually evolves, rather than the kind of overnight success that burns brightly, quickly – and then disappears. The incremental development of the former bodes well for creative people who are, initially perhaps, unsure of where they want to go to next.

And so, six years after he released his debut album Early in the Morning, Irish singer and songwriter James Vincent McMorrow has reached the point of mainstream crossover. Not only that, but McMorrow has finally accepted what other people have been saying for all these years: that he’s an exceptional artist who should more fully engage with his brilliance. Seated in the airy café of Dublin’s National Concert Hall, McMorrow – a talkative, likeable guy with a casual command

of hip-hop sensibilities – gently tugs at his beard, takes the compliment on the (hairy) chin and nods. “Yes, I think I’m pretty good. It’s hard to respond to something like that without sounding a bit cocky or super into yourself but, yes, I think I’m good at this.”

McMorrow’s backstory is relevant; now in his early 30s, he began to write songs in his late teens. However, it wasn’t until he reached his mid-20s – when he signed a publishing deal – that he began to participate seriously in the music industry. A period of frustration ensued where, he recalls, he was meeting various industry people with a lawyer on his side of the table. The process, he recalls, was along the following lines: you get a manager, you sign a recording deal, you make an album. There is always a snag, though, and for McMorrow it was that too many people had too many opinions about AERLINGUS.COM |

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his music, his songs and his voice.

Result? He ignored the judgements and went with his instincts.

That debut album slowly gained traction, bringing him to moderate attention. Four years after McMorrow’s debut, however, came the follow-up and, if there was ever an explanation required for the phrase “chalk and cheese”, Post Tropical clarified it. Cut adrift from the debut’s resonant singersongwriter range, the second

album ushered in a completely different version of McMorrow: soulful, sensual, more assured and instinctively poised for further explorations in song structure.

Which brings the story completely up to date. This September he released his third album, We Move; it further nudges his position as a songwriter into an area where few others can match him. As he explains all too eloquently, “I’m just someone who sits in a room and hears sounds, and so it was the idea of making a singer-songwriter record without abiding by any particular set of preordained rules or laws. And I say that not in a lofty way – I merely wanted to create a record that would make you dance and that would have a point to it, lyrically.”

McMorrow has done exactly that but, in the process, he has also placed a spotlight directly onto him as someone who can write songs not just for himself but also for others. In the course of writing material for We Move, he teamed up with Canadian record producer Nineteen85 (aka Paul Jefferies, probably best known for his work with fellow Canadian, Drake, currently one of the most successful recording artists in the world).

Working with Jeffries occurred naturally, initially via the producer hearing McMorrow’s music online, then through introductory tweets and emails, and subsequently faceto-face in studios and rather more social settings.

Unwittingly, McMorrow was introduced to a world of collaborative songwriting and music-making partnerships that he never thought possible several years ago. Up until that point “it wasn’t on my radar at all,” he says of the general idea of working with other people, be they songwriters, producers or mixers, “but my reasoning for it isn’t from a careerist perspective.

“My career is good, I’m happy and I don’t feel a particular need to try to diversify”

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WITH ROB KEARNEY

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My career is good, I’m happy and I don’t feel a particular need to try to diversify my portfolio.”

His job, McMorrow emphasises, is to write songs for himself, yet he views the collaborative process as a sociological experiment.

“What is happening here?” he asks rhetorically. Creative interaction, he insinuates, is what he pursues. “As musicians these days, we’re damned with too many options. I could sit in a room forever and work on things; I’ve always been able to finish songs but I’ve routinely had the tendency to overthink.

“When I went into the studio with We Move, I had a version of it that was very well formed in my mind – there were layers and layers of keyboards, guitars and drums.

If I had thought of the music being altered, I would have run for the hills, shouting ‘what are you doing?!’ But my previous experience the year before of working, virtually, anonymously, with people, made me think differently.”

McMorrow would once have argued that music is art, not science, but his co-writing experiences – enabled and encouraged by Jefferies – taught him that good songs could emerge, providing that the science is tempered (or even tampered) with honesty and emotion. Was there much of a conflict going from solo artist to a co-songwriter for hire?

CHRISTIAN TIERNEY

INTERVIEW

“I realised I was thinking about things the wrong way,” he accepts.

“What I found difficult was writing songs [for other people] and then writing a lyric for them that, in effect, didn’t really mean anything.

I’ve seen others do it, and it’s an extraordinary thing if you can, but I just can’t. My songwriting has to be drawn from something I understand, and that tends to make the songs more personal.”

He isn’t saying which artists he has co-written songs for, but we’ll hazard a guess they’re reasonably well known (and if they’re not, they soon will be). More to the point, however, is McMorrow’s acutely

considered reasoning of wanting to improve as an artist. If that means stretching (or breaking out of) his own boundaries, then so be it. The experience has been as much a thrill as a challenge.

So what is it like meeting up with artists he has had no previous visual contact with and trying to write a song? “The thing with being a musician these days is that you’re used to having your initial contact by either email or Twitter. The idea of this anonymous creativity is something I’m used to, although it’s not my day job, per se. The choice with the new material was to seek out people that I wasn’t used to working with.”

Now with three formidable albums to his name – each one more adventurous, more selfpossessed – it seems that naturally extending his art and craft isn’t going to end anytime soon.

“I always want to get better,” says McMorrow, absent-mindedly finger-combing his beard, “and I believe that there are diminishing returns if you replicate things.

My favourite artists are those that progress and change. My instinct is to do precisely that.”

James Vincent McMorrow’s new album, We Move, is out now. This October he tours Ireland, UK and Europe; his USA/ Canada leg starts on November 7 until December 1. jamesvmcmorrow.com

JAMES VINCENT McMORROW ON …

MOVIES/TV “The best movies I’ve seen recently have been Eye in the Sky, Green Room and Midnight Special. When it comes to television, at the moment I’m really into Mr Robot, right – it’s great, a real head-scratcher. Planes are inevitably where I watch about 90 per cent of movies and TV shows – lengthy flights are great for that!”

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BOOKS “I have framed my albums around books I was reading at the time of making them. For my first record, Early in the Morning, I was reading John Steinbeck and Ernest Hemingway. The second album, Post Tropical, I was reading Michael Chabon’s The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier & Clay.

The new album? I have read no fiction at all.”

TOURING “Over the course of the European and US/Canada tour we have about 50 shows over 60 days. My way of seeing a city is to run a lot. I run whenever I can – for about 30 minutes – and it helps you get a sense of a place.

We’re finishing up in Los Angeles in December and usually we stay there for some time. I know it really well – especially Venice Beach and West Hollywood.”

WITH LINDA GRAY

STYLE TO SUIT EVERY HOME

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The Cartographer WHO Kathi Burke WHAT Irelandopedia and Historopedia Kathi – better known as “Fatti” – is a talented illustrator and designer originally from Waterford but now living in Dublin. Describing her work as “childish, colourful and cute”, Kathi is acclaimed for her beautifully simplified geographical maps, where she takes landmarks or entire cities and recreates them in a striking but easy-to-read manner: clients have included Energia, Airbnb, McDonald’s.

Late last year Kathi co-created, with her father John Burke, her first book, Irelandopedia, which features every county in Ireland, along with historical facts and her signature illustrations. Her search for inspiration is wonderfully straightforward – she draws on the people and places around her.

Kathi’s second publication, Historopedia (Gill Books, €24.99), is released this October 21 and which she feels truly represents her as an artist: “It feels more ‘me’ than anything I’ve done before, I’m really proud of it”. The key to creative survival according to Kathi? Be sound: “Share ideas, share jobs, mingle at openings – even though I hate mingling – meet new people, keep in touch. But yeah, most of all, be sound. People like to work with nice people”. fattiburke.com

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Illustrious CROWD

Meet the Irish cartoonists and illustrators whose inventive talents are writ large on a little island.

WORDS NIAMH O’DONOGHUE PHOTOGRAPHS SEAN BREITHAUPT

T

he creative sector has become a vibrant part of Ireland’s economic landscape over the past ten years, with artistic flair being increasingly valued from boardroom to studio.

This booming industry is a huge source of pride to locally focused, yet internationally recognised, cartoonists and illustrators. They are pushing the boundaries – artistic, cultural and commercial – of an ancient art form. Experimentation, collaboration and challenging the status quo are all driving the colourful revolution. Between global brand alliances and shoutouts from some of the biggest names in publishing, Irish illustrators have set the bar high and the message is clear: we mean business.

A sense of design and aesthetics lies at the heart of most artists’ talents, yet Irish illustrators’ contrasting styles and visions make for a wide and varied canvas.

However they all share a passion for ingenuity and imagination. They also have an incredible ability to capture an often humorous, but very real, sense of Irish culture as we experience it right now.

Here, we talk to six key illustrators – many of whom have been creating glorious maps for Cara for many years – about their work, their motivation and how to make it big on a little island.

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PEOPLE | THE ILLUSTRATORS

The Magpie WHO Graham Corcoran WHAT BBC, Disney, Nickelodeon What happens when you combine Japanese artistic influences with modernistic, nostalgia-inspired illustrations? Graham Corcoran is a visual artist and character designer from Dublin who specialises in 2D digital illustration and concept design.

Having loved art since he was old enough to hold a pencil, Graham considers himself lucky to have been able to turn his hobby into a successful career. Through years of practice, this young creative has developed a distinguished style.

An expert at character building, Graham has worked with the world’s biggest brands, including the BBC, Kellogg’s, Sony Pictures, Nickelodeon, Sesame Street and Disney, to name a

few. Describing his style as “modern-retro”, he is inspired by children’s book illustrators from the 1950s and 1960s, most notably Miroslav Šašek, Mary Blair and, in the modern era, the Japanese illustrator Tadahiro Uesugi for his use of textures. However, and similarly to many young Irish artists, Graham struggled to reach his desired level of professionalism here because of the small size of the industry, and left Ireland briefly to pursue more creative opportunities. “You definitely need to get your work seen internationally, as Ireland is such a small place. Also it’s key to have a good professional reputation, as everybody knows each other, so cultivating good relationships with clients and other creatives is essential.” grahamcorcoran.com

The Wit WHO Fuchsia MacAree WHAT Maps and “Irishness” You will be transfixed by the fluid and natural movements of Fuchsia’s artwork. Sticking with traditional and fundamental colour palettes – and a smudge of “Irishness” – Fuchsia turns the world around her into beautiful, fun illustrations.

Motivated by her surroundings and her own sense of humour, her artwork often has an air of tongue-in-cheek playfulness and is, undoubtedly, culturally inspired.

She self-deprecatingly describes her work as being “not too bad”, and has been commissioned by the likes of Coca-Cola, Lidl, Airbnb, Mercedes Benz and Guinness. She has honed her personal style over the years and knows that there’s no shortcut to success.

“You have to make work that’s engaging and intelligent, and your own interests have to shine through. It’s a lovely scene to be in though, and it feels very cosy and friendly”.

Fuchsia is currently working on a large-scale project at the new Google Data Centre, which is due to open in Co Dublin shortly, as well as projects with the Irish Architecture Foundation, Damn Fine Print and a 2017 calendar for the Irish Design Shop. macaree.ie

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PEOPLE | THE ILLUSTRATORS

The Joker WHO Aoife Dooley WHAT Your One Nikita It’s hard to find someone who truly captures the spirit of Dublin’s unique array of sub-cultures but Aoife Dooley does it with precision, style and wit. Web series, Your One Nikita, is a fictional north Dublin character who shares her drama-filled, spice-bag-infused life on Facebook by perfectly personifying one of the city’s most distinctive dialects and its playfully crude sense of humour.

Feeling as though she was underachieving in school, Aoife initially turned to art as a form of escapism. She has since combined her love of drawing with her wry, facetious sense of humour to build a burgeoning career, which has seen

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her work appear in national newspapers, magazines and on websites.

Describing her style as “humorous, Dublin-themed line drawing”, Aoife comes from the school of writing about what you know, taking much of her inspiration from the northside Dublin estate where she grew up. She also aspires to develop her artwork into animations. “I just think it brings something more to illustration, it adds personality,” she says, adding that she’d like to do it in collaboration “with a comedian, and do some different work with my character to take it further and really bring her to life.”

Aoife is looking forward to debuting Nikita in print – her first book, How to be Massive (Gill Books, €12.99) goes on sale this October 14. aoifedooleydesign.com

The Awards Ace WHO Steve McCarthy WHAT Background designer for Song of the Sea Dublin-based illustrator Steve McCarthy, with his underdog spirit, is no stranger to tough graft and has earned his keep as both a designer and artist over the last couple of years, culminating in an Academy Award nomination last year as part of the team behind Cartoon Saloon’s animated feature Song of the Sea. Without a doubt, Steve’s speciality lies in developing characters, excelling at making them resonate with his audience – particularly the ghoulish giants he superimposes onto the Irish landscape.

Steve has acquired a style that is bold, colourful, comedic and nostalgic. Creative survival in a smallscale industry can be precarious, however, and Steve deliberates on the challenges: “There are so many hurdles involved in creative work and actually making work is a very small part of what it takes to make a living out of it. For instance, there’s working with clients, putting yourself out there, the secret meetings, hand-to-hand combat training, the dark arts and taxes!” mrstevemccarthy.com

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PEOPLE | THE ILLUSTRATORS

The Virtuoso WHO Steve Simpson WHAT Mighty Mouse, Teenage Mutant

Ninja Turtles, Jameson Whiskey

As a child, the idea that an adult could spend his day drawing for his “real job” seemed incredulous to Steve Simpson, but creativity was built into his DNA. The Dublin-based illustrator, who grew up in Britain’s Manchester during The Beano and The Dandy era, developed a deep

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passion for illustration under the watchful eye and skilled hand of his uncle, cartoonist John Geering. “At the age of 14 I spent a summer interning in his studio at the back of his house. My jobs included drawing the borders around the comic panels with a technical pen and filling in the solid black areas he had marked with an X.” The summers spent practising led him to study technical illustration, before working on cult cartoons and characters.

Steve’s work, which he describes as “illustrative design stuff”, is inspired by the Arts and Crafts movement, folk art, 1950s and 1960s vintage lettering, and music. Now, with more than 30 years’ experience under his belt, this illustrator is a true master of his craft, having had his work appear on everything from postage stamps and board games to whiskey bottles and even the screens overlooking Times Square in New York City. stevesimpson.com

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DESTINATION | BELFAST

Mellow moments – the tranquil waters of Lough Ree.

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Watery

Wilds

Lough Ree and its surrounding counties lie at the very centre of Ireland, yet remain gloriously off-radar.

WORDS PÓL Ó CONGHAILE PHOTOGRAPHS ANTHONY WOODS

DESTINATION | IRISH LAKELANDS

O

scar Wilde said he could resist everything except temptation. When it comes to travel, I’m exactly the same. So when I spot a sign saying “Rindoon: Deserted Medieval Village”, it’s a done deal – time for a detour.

Several kilometres down a country road, past Lecarrow, a tiny harbour town on the western shores of Lough Ree, I park at a green farm gate. From here, waymarkers lead along a four-and-a-half-kilometre circuit of the Rindoon peninsula. Brushing by the lake edge, hopping over stiles and dodging cowpats, I soon come across the deserted village. There’s an ivy-swaddled castle, the base of an old windmill tower, the stony shell of a church and a 500-metre-long town wall that looks like it was built this century. In fact, the ruins are those of a borough and fortress first built by Anglo-Normans in 1227. Today, the settlement stands beautifully abandoned ... guarded only by chomping sheep.

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On my way back, there’s a middle-aged man coming the opposite way. He is power-walking, balancing a pot belly on top of some seriously tight leggings. We stop to wonder who is following the arrows correctly.

“Sure it’s a free country,” he smiles. “You can go whichever way you like.”

It’s just the latest discovery on my travels around Lough Ree. Bordering three counties (Roscommon, Westmeath and Longford), this swell in the River Shannon is one of the loveliest landscapes in Ireland’s Ancient East. But it remains resolutely off-radar. Over a few days, I stumble across several world-class heritage sites, almost by accident, with barely a soul in sight.

After Rindoon, it’s time to get out on the water itself. Terry Benson of Barracuda Boat Trips (barracudaboattrips.com) takes me on a short tour of Lough Ree’s islands in a speedboat. These desolate outposts are dotted with cattle and curiosities – at one, I hop off and pick my way across marshy ground towards Early Christian ruins that wouldn’t look out of place at

SLEEP AT …

Opposite, “Viking Mike” captains his ship, far left, and a sculptural tree in Rindoon. Above, the undulations of Glasson Golf Club. Left, Beryl and James Kearney of the 17th-century Viewmount House in Longford. Below, Terry Benson of Barracuda Boat Trips, ready for a spin.

Clonmacnoise, the famous monastic site further south along the Shannon. While I traipse around in search of this Lost World on the lake, Terry casts off to see if he can’t catch a fish.

“I love it up here,” he says, when I arrive back OPEN covered in cow dung, grinning from ear to ear and SEASON showing off my photos. “There’s only one thing Athlone and the eastern in the world you can’t do and that’s live forever. shores of Lough Ree are part of It’s open house after that.”

Ireland’s Ancient East, a touring Measuring 105 square kilometres, Lough region bringing 5,000 years of Ree’s name hints at hidden depths (Loch history to life across some of the Rí, in Irish, means Lake of the Kings). On country’s lushest landscapes. another boat tour, this time a more sedate irelandsancient trip out of Athlone with Viking Ship Cruises east.com (vikingtoursireland.ie), I learn that Vikings sailed these waters in the ninth century ... and with names like “Olaf the Scabby Head”, they weren’t exactly a welcome sight. The cruise passes under Athlone’s famous

ACTIVITIES The four-star Glasson Hotel and Golf Club, above, might be full of all the mod-cons but the club house actually dates back to the 1780s.

In 1993, its owners Tom and Breda Reid – still at the helm – transformed their family home into a golf club before branching out into a hotel and championship green. And its super panoramas of Lough Ree are beautiful all year round. Rooms from €55pp sharing. (Killinure Cottage, Killinure, Athlone, Co Westmeath, 090 648 5120; glassongolfhotel.com) FOODIE Move over, Wild Atlantic Way. Views over the reeds and ripples from Glasson’s Wineport Lodge might just trump the lot. Ray Byrne and Jane English’s lodge mixes slick, contemporary rooms (I liked the mini-brownies in a Kilner jar, and the underfloor bathroom heating) with a restaurant made famous by the reality show The Restaurant. Recently refurbished, it feels like you’re eating on a river cruise ship. Rooms from €65 pps. (Glasson, Co Westmeath, 090 643 9010; wineport.ie) BOUTIQUE Beryl and James Kearney’s 17th-century Viewmount House, is the crown jewel of Longford hospitality, a Blue Book manor house mixing period charm, intricate gardens and food that exceeds expectations.

Gary O’Hanlon’s VM Restaurant is the perfect complement, an atmospheric conversion of old stables where dishes often combine tradition with perky twists – monkfish tail with coconut curry and parsnip crisps, for example.

B&B from €70 (Dublin Road, Longford, 043 334 1919; viewmounthouse.com) AERLINGUS.COM |

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GRAHAM CORCORAN

DESTINATION | IRISH LAKELANDS

white railway bridge and out onto the lake, its captain telling tales along the way. Picking up binoculars stowed on the boat rails, passengers peer into reeds spearing up from the shoreline, trying to catch a glimpse of the lake’s colourful birdlife, perhaps even an elusive corncrake.

Bit by bit, the magic of the midlands is revealed. On a driving loop, I cross the Shannon both at Athlone (athlone.ie) and the pretty village of LanesboroughBallyleague. On the Longford side of Lough Ree, a thin, gravelly causeway leads to the husks of a 13thcentury Augustinian monastery on Saint’s Island.

Swapping four wheels for two, I hook up with Doron Harte of Athlone Bike Tours (athlonebiketours.ie) for a spin on the Old Rail Trail – a 40-kilometre cycleway along the former Athlone-Mullingar railway. It feels like a secret pathway, skirting past the walls of Moydrum Castle (it appears on the cover of U2’s Unforgettable Fire) and the old station at Moate, with its fresh paint and flower baskets. Later, passing through Granard in Co Longford, there’s a chance to clamber up a Norman 58 |

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From top right to bottom: the heavenly St Mel’s Cathedral; it’s Fort Knox at Athlone Castle; Athlone Bike Tours’ Doron Harte, and swish exhibits at Athlone Castle.

Opposite, Celtic god Lugh looms large at Dún na Sí Heritage Park.

3 MUST SEES ECCLESIASTICAL “It’s amazing to think that the fire was reaching 1,000 degrees around this painting,” says Father Tom Murray.

“And it survived.” Little else did.

On Christmas morning, 2009, Longford awoke to the news that its 19th-century St Mel’s Cathedral had been burnt to a crisp – but the subsequent restoration has seen it rise, Phoenix-like, from the ashes.

Vibrant new mosaics and stained glass are highlights of a glorious good news story. (043 334 6465; longfordparish.com) HISTORIC Athlone doesn’t just straddle counties. Its bridge over the River Shannon also joins parishes, provinces, east and west – and the iconic Athlone Castle has a suitably storied history. A new, interactive

layout combines artefacts and information with a 360-degree movie, dress-up costumes and even an exhibit on John McCormack, the town’s famous tenor. (Castle Street, Athlone, 090 644 2130; athlonecastle.ie) FOLKLORE It’s amazing what a small community can do. That’s my takeaway from the beautifully kept Dún na Sí Heritage Park, just off the Old Rail Trail outside Moate. A zip-line and play area will burn off any excess energy, with folk history attractions ranging from a stone circle to a forge and fisherman’s cottage. Watch out for the clever sculpture of Lugh, the Celtic god of light – his spear is an 18-metre, 4,000-year-old piece of bog oak.

(Moate, Co Westmeath, 090 648 1183; dunnasi.ie)

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Pork Life – Athlone’s The Fatted Calf, left and below. Bottom, sweet treats await at Ruth McGarry-Quinn’s Torc Café.

PÓL Ó CONGHAILE

DESTINATION | IRISH LAKELANDS

EAT AT …

DEREK SKEHAN

SEASONAL Fiona and Feargal O’Donnell’s modern Irish bistro, The Fatted Calf, is a midlands gem.

Dishes such as Ballyhoura mushrooms with treacle-cured bacon from Horan’s butchers, above, or wild mackerel from the Burren Smokehouse, combine flavours, textures and Irish ingredients in a classy space full of natural light off Church Street. It was worth a detour when a pub in Glasson; doubly so now it’s a confident urban restaurant in Athlone. (Church Street, 090 643 3371; thefattedcalf.ie)

motte for epic views over the town and countryside.

There isn’t a tourist in sight.

One of my final stops is the Corlea Trackway (heritageireland.ie) at Keenagh, Co Longford. The visitor centre here houses a beautiful section of Iron Age bog road, dating from 148BC but only discovered in the 1980s. Guide Noel Carberry brings its history, conservation and talking points to life before revealing the hallowed beams themselves. Why was the trackway built? Theories range from trade and transport to a pagan pathway connecting the living and dead. Since its discovery, two bog bodies, vats of ancient butter and other artefacts have been found in the earth nearby – a story that seems to echo my lakelands journey.

“It makes you wonder,” Noel says. “What else is buried out there?”

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SWEET Every café should have a chocolate fountain.

Torc Café certainly does. Ruth McGarry-Quinn’s little oasis does a varied menu of teas, coffees and casual food, but it’s your sweet tooth that will be most satisfied ... try the house “mess” or rocky road for a treat, and pick up a box of truffles and a few bottles of St Mel’s, the local craft beer, to go. (New Street, Longford, 043 334 8277; torccafe.com) TRAD There is actual sawdust on the floor of Sean’s Bar. The whole building appears to slope towards the river.

A framed chunk of clay and wattle is mounted on a wall. Is Sean’s Bar really the oldest in the world? Who cares. It oozes atmosphere, and sure why let the truth get in the way of a good story? Skip the fairly generic beer garden out back and nab a brew beside the fire – all the better if a trad session is in full swing. (Main Street, Athlone, 090 649 2358; seansbar.ie)

CIAO CHOW

Rome is best known for its ancient sites, but the Eternal City's lively, young neighbourhoods are just as enticing.

WORDS ROISIN AGNEW PHOTOGRAPHS AL HIGGINS

Above, dining al fresco on the Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina. Opposite, clockwise from top left, main street in Il Pigneto; Hotel Bernini Bristol on Piazza Barberini; Roberto Rinasduzzi in his Il Pigneto record shop, Blutopia; ornate courtyards embellish city centre apartments; an equine statue of King Vittorio Emanuele II at the Altare della Patria (Altar of the Father), on the Piazza Venezia; evening aperitivo on the Via di Campo Marzio; the famous Trevi Fountain; Alessia Spatziani of Ciampini bar and restaurant; scooters are the only way to travel in Rome.

DESTINATION | ROME

ome lives and dies by its clichés, created in no small part by cinema.

Fellini, Pasolini, Sorrentino, Anna Magnan, and Audrey Hepburn have all contributed to a subliminal movie version of the city that influences visitors’ expectations. The image of a Rome filled with crumbling ruins, criss-crossed by speeding scooters and inhabited by swaggering, handsome men is as true today as it was in Roman Holiday. Its cinematic soul endows everything with a languorous glamour.

For all its razzle dazzle, later decline and infinite controversies, Rome remains one of the most-visited cities in the world. Whether one goes once or many times, its vast sprawl of ancient sites (the Caracalla baths and its Roman forum), turn-of-the-century architecture (the Coppedè neighbourhood), its fascistic buildings

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to ROM E 11 times per week.

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(Mussolini’s EUR), and its bold contemporary design, its beauty will astonish every time.

In Elizabeth Gilbert’s best-selling memoir Eat Pray Love, it could at first seem diminishing for Rome to be assigned the lesser of the three verbs. But in fact assigning “Eat” to Rome is the greatest honour, eating

EAT AT …

PIZZA Whilst it offers all manner of unparalleled Roman fare, La Gatta Mangiona (“the greedy cat”) is renowned for its pizza. It has one particular type every month for you to choose from, but the lack of choice is compensated by how mind-blowingly good the pizza is. Ending your hunt for good pizza here is a great way to see Monte Verde, a neighbourhood between the Gianicolense hills and bustling Trastevere below. (Via Federico Ozanam 30, +39 06 534 6702; lagattamangiona.com) TRADITIONAL Informal and beautifully put together, Osteria delle Coppelle, offers the best of traditional Roman cooking at a reasonable price.

This gorgeous restaurant faces onto a private square not too far from Piazza Navona and has its own bar. There’s an option to eat outside or in, as well as to stay on for an after-dinner drink.

Its upcycled industrial decor is offset by a super-relaxed atmosphere and impeccably good food. Get lots of the little starters, they’re incredible.

(Piazza delle Coppelle 55, +39 06 4550 2826; osteriadellecoppelle.com)

being the city’s favourite pastime. Roman cooking has a long tradition, one that benefits from regional produce of the Lazio region and from its old Jewish community, as well as from the city’s salt-of-the-earth spirit. You’ll be hard-pressed to get a bad meal or feel ripped off in Rome, everything on offer being well-priced and simple, lacking any of the pretension that has come to be an accepted part of good food in English-speaking countries. Get a cacio-e-pepe pasta, an amatriciana with guanciale (fatty pork cheek) and artichoke cooked alla Giudecca (roasted) and you’ll never look back.

For instance, try Ai Tre Scalini (Via Panisperna 251, +39 06 4890 7495) in Rome’s happening Monti

Opposite, the aweinspiring colosseum, above, and below, a side street off the Via dei Pettinari.

Above, clockwise from top left, afternoon espresso in Bar Necci in Il Pigneto; an Aperol Spritz in Ciampini; ready for business at Osteria delle Coppelle, and Il Pigneto street art.

SPLURGE A sumptuous and cavernous interior makes La Veranda restaurant at the Hotel Columbus one of the most distinctive restaurants one can visit in Rome. Few movies pay such a visual homage to the city’s beauty as Paolo Sorrentino’s Oscar-winning The Great Beauty/La Grande Bellezza, and it’s unsurprising that La Veranda, next to St Peter’s Basilica, was chosen as one of the famous locations used in the film. The vaulted, frescoed ceilings and white linen tablecloths, along with its finedining menu and views over the old Borgo Santo Spirito, make it a magical experience. (Borgo Santo Spirito 73, +39 06 687 2973; laveranda.net) AERLINGUS.COM |

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DESTINATION | ROME

neighbourhood. Situated in a dip in the cobbled road, the building is ivy-drenched, and a huge antique street lamp hangs just above the three steps (tre scalini) that lead indoors, making it look like a wine-lover’s Narnia from the top of the road. A fashionable crowd gathers here and takes its vino outdoors onto the street.

The Complesso del Vittoriano is the enormous turn of the century monument that dominates the busy thoroughfare separating the Colosseum and Roman Forum from the Teatro Marcello – and commands some of the best views of Rome. Adjacent is the Campidoglio, designed by Michelangelo. In between the two is Caffetteria Italia (Piazza Venezia, +39 06 678 0905), a café up high in the terraces of the building that offers 360-degree views of the city centre. It’s a little pricey but worth it for what are arguably the best vistas in the city, so maybe just go for a coffee and freshly squeezed orange juice (spremuta).

Whilst the Eternal City can sometimes feel like the eternally unchanging city, new energies have managed

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to take root. Over the last few years Il Pigneto has become Rome’s answer to Brooklyn’s Bushwick. Amid street art installations and murals, some of the best new bars, galleries, and restaurants have given rise to a neighbourhood where 20- to 30-year-olds gather for anything from traditional Roman fare at Primo Al Pigneto (Via del Pigneto 46, +39 06 7013827; primoalpigneto.it) to vegan food and local microbrews in Bestia Mora (Via del Pigneto 156, +39 06 295 953; bestiamora.com).

A working-class neighbourhood that was best known for being a favourite haunt of Pier Paolo Pasolini, Il Pigneto has secured its place as the heart of young Rome. Focusing on the main vein that runs through it, Via del Pigneto, the neighbourhood offers a proper experience of the Rome that is just about perceptible but slightly out of reach for the average tourist caught up in the city’s historical awesomeness and glamour. This is where your in-the-know and ink-adorned Roman crowds are to be found, setting up markets on weekends

Opposite, the streets and terraces leading up to the Piazza Venezia. Left, Rosti, a restaurant in buzzy Il Pigneto and, below, tram vs motorcycle.

and vying to be the most outlandishly slick kid on the block. The competition has served the neighbourhood well, giving rise to some of the best bars and eateries around. Rosti (Via Bartolomeo d’Alviano 65, +39 06 275 2608; rostialpigneto.com) is a good introduction to the Pigneto, where you can have a drink in its quiet garden before going for dinner around its giant communal tables for a very ballsy traditional Roman meal. For afters, Cargo (Via del Pigneto 20, +39 349 740 4620), one of the neighbourhood’s busiest bars, is a safe bet, with its reputation for the best Bloody Mary in town far preceding it and making it a good spot to meet people in the crowds that flock outside. A Moscow Mule, however, may be their actual best drink ...

Pigneto is best explored in the evenings on weekends, when it comes alive with its native artists and creatives, but make sure you make time for its contemporary galleries and boutiques, as well as for a movie in the members-only culture club and arthouse cinema CoHouse (Via Casilina Vecchia 96c,

SLEEP AT … resource of nearby eats/drinks recommendations. Rooms from €349. (Via Bocca di Leone, 14, +39 06 699811; hoteldinghilterra.com)

LAVISH Located between the Spanish Steps and the Trevi fountain is Hotel d’InghilterraStarhotels Collezione, whose 16th-century building has hosted the likes of Lord Byron, Ernest Hemingway, and Liz Taylor. It has a maze of quiet reading rooms, a beautiful bar and restaurant, and recently renovated rooms and suites, above. The concierge is an amazingly helpful

SCENIC A four-star hotel set just a little way from the Colosseum, the Hotel Capo d’Africa stands out for its huge rooftop terrace that looks onto the nearby Roman Forum. It’s also situated in one of Rome’s nicest neighbourhoods, Celio, which somehow retains a quiet and elegant air in spite of being so close to many of the busiest tourist sights. It’s a great residential neighbourhood – perfect to see how the locals live without getting too far from the action. Rooms from €157. (Via Capo d’Africa 54, +39 06 772801; hotelcapodafrica.com)

authentic and best restaurants are literally on your doorstep, with places like Urbana 47 (locally sourced fare) and La Carbonara (pasta) nearby. Rooms from €187.

(Via Urbana 6/7, +39 06 4891 3446; fifteenkeys.com)

AIRY Situated in one of Rome’s long-standing trendiest neighbourhoods, Monti, The Fifteen Keys hotel is a perfect representative of the area’s nonchalance and grace. The five-storey house went through a renovation in 2015 and is now an airy and sunlit four-star hotel with a flair for minimal contemporary design, above. Its location means that some of Rome’s most

VALUE Modest and not particularly concerned with being trendy, Hotel Due Torri is situated among some of Rome’s most romantic cobbled lanes between Castel Sant Angelo and Piazza Navona, close to the Tiber. It was a former residence for cardinals, and now benefits from its stuck-in-past, kooky feel. A great value option in one of Rome’s most evocative areas. Rooms from €110. (Vicolo del Leonetto 23, +39 06 6880 6956; hotelduetorriroma.com) AERLINGUS.COM |

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DESTINATION | ROME

MUST DOS CONTEMPORARY ART One of the better-established contemporary art spaces in the city, the Galleria Lorcan O’Neill has hosted exhibitions by the likes of Tracey Emin, Eddie Peake and Richard Long in its exquisite space and adjacent internal courtyard, complete with fountain. It’s worth visiting not only for the choice exhibits but also because O’Neill is one of Ireland’s best exports in Rome – and coincidentally the brother of Rory, aka Panti. (Vicolo dei Catinari 3, +39 06 6889 2980; lorcanoneill.com) APERITIVO-DINNER If you’ve been to Italy before you know that it’s all about getting an aperitivo, or pre-dinner drink, which comes served with a variety of free finger food.

Somehow in recent years (perhaps because people started drinking more and eating less during the recession) the popularity of the aperitivo reached an all-time high. Bars and restaurants responded by buffing up and prolonging the free snacks options so that it’s now called apericena – aperitivodinner. Try Ciampini if you want to have yours with Rome’s perfectly tanned polo shirt brigade. (Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina, +39 06 687 6606; ciampini.com)

The Piazza della Rotonda, a neighbour of the Pantheon.

Below, contemporary art at the Galleria Lorcan O'Neill.

+39 346 273 5632; cohouse-roma.com).

Although getting off the beaten track is a source of pride for every traveller, in Rome’s case sticking to the main drag is not necessarily a bad thing. Tourists are as much a part of the cityscape as the broken marble columns that are everywhere. Born and raised in Rome, I’ve taken the double-decker tourist bus around the city five times and I often arrange to meet people in front of the Pantheon. As long as you don’t allow yourself to be bullied into eating at a restaurant by a pushy waiter on the street, or buying something from a street vendor, you’re safe. But don’t miss Rome’s wonders out of a desire to be different to everyone else. Of all places, it rewards those who embrace being tourists.

The American author Nathaniel Hawthorne, who lived in Rome for a time, had one of his characters say, “I sometimes fancy that Rome will crowd everything else out of my heart”. To fall in love with Rome is to make it the standard bearer to which all other cities will be compared. If you get the bug, it’s a mixed blessing.

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THE VIEWS Yearning for a good vantage point from which to look over the city like a super-villain? The Janiculum hill to the west is a classic option, but that doesn’t mean it should be dismissed. Just above the madding crowd, the Gianicolense hills offer views across the whole of Rome and as far as the snow-capped mountains of Terminillo. The Janiculum also offers promenade walks among the busts of the likes of Mazzini in between the spectacular balconies.

Happily, it also involves passing by the likes of the Terrazza San Pancrazio bar among others. (Via di Porta San Pancrazio 32, +39 331 257 4249)

We’re closing briefly in order to bring you the greatest living whiskey experience.

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RE-OPENING MARCH 2017

SMART EDIT | COCKTAIL BARS

You say, we say ...

10

BEST COCKTAIL BARS

to leave you stirred, not shaken Our edit of your favourite places leading the art-in-a-glass revival.

like to have a martini, two at the very most. After three I’m under the table, after four I’m under my host.” We know what tooted Dorothy Parker’s horn but what’s your poison?

Popularised by American barman Jerry Thomas with his 1862 publication How to Mix Drinks or the Bon-Vivant’s Companion, cocktail culture is in rude health, thanks to Don Draper making the Old Fashioned sexy again and the “artisanal” food and drink movement ensuring that any bar worth its celery salt has handmade botanical bitters at the ready. We now peruse extensive menus of increasingly bonkers concoctions involving bacon, anchovy brine, smoke and Chupa Chups garnish (yes, really, at New York’s The Late Late bar) until we are – literally – gimlet-eyed. So pour yourself something potent and enjoy our compilation of your best cocktail bars.

“I

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Little Red Door, Paris Little black dress optional at this semiclandestine spot in the hip Haut-Marais neighbourhood. Behind the unmarked but identifiable door, a juxtaposition of exposed brick walls, leather sofas, velvet stools and Baroque wallpaper creates a relaxed ambience, but they take the cocktails very seriously. In the interest of creativity, the

drinks menu changes twice a year, reflecting the season that’s in it – with small plates available on the side for the peckish. lrdparis.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Paris three times daily, and from Cork daily.

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Tales & Spirits, Amsterdam

MARK DUGGAN

“Laugh, giggle and be silly” is house rule no 15 at this multi-level cocktail bar and restaurant.

House specials include Fallen Lady (Ketel One vodka, Mozart dark chocolate liqueur, raspberry syrup), while their signature, tworound combo, Floats Like a Butterfly and Stings Like a Bee, leads with vodka and gin respectively. Food can be ordered at will, in small or large amounts, as the mood – and the munchies – takes you. talesandspirits.com

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Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Amsterdam four times daily, and from Cork twice daily.

Smuggler’s Cove, San Francisco

A mind-boggling 550 different rums are showcased on the shelves of this dramatic-looking, pirate-themed haven. No prize for guessing the staple ingredient in many, but not all, the cocktails here, which can be mixed with up to another 12 elements. Credited with driving a tiki renaissance, the bar’s exotic creations will transport you from California to the Caribbean on sight. smugglerscovesf.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to San Francisco daily in October, and five times weekly in November.

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4 Artesian, London Voted by industry insiders as the World’s Best Bar for four consecutive years, the Langham hotel’s cocktail lounge comes with credentials second to none. Whether the refined elegance of the classic Langham Martini floats your olive, or you fancy one of their more “innovative” or “surreal” offerings, it’s a chance to immerse yourself in fivestar sophistication. artesian-bar.co.uk

Aer Lingus has 28 flights to London daily, from Dublin, Belfast, Cork and Shannon to London Heathrow, and from Dublin and Knock to London Gatwick.

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Tribeton, Galway A former hardware store, this beautiful old building has been reborn as the swanky Tribeton, which recently won a Sky Bar gong for Best Modern Bar. Geometric, wooden flooring and a sweeping staircase lead up to a surprisingly large space, and, better yet, a large and perfectly executed cocktail menu. They do the classics to perfection (their espresso martini is divine), but it’s their G&T menu – over 80 different gins – that really takes the botanical biscuit. Pull up a plush stool at its pewter and Italian marble bar, signaled by a frieze of Tamara de Lempicka reproduction artwork, and enjoy. tribeton.ie | AERLINGUS.COM

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SMART EDIT | COCKTAIL BARS

Boca Grande, Barcelona Barcelonian artist-turned-interior designer Lázaro RosaViolán has set the scene for the cool crowd in this restaurant’s stunning Boca Chica cocktail lounge. Here, in the heart of the Catalan capital’s Eixample district, your mouth will be hanging open at the decor – as well as for a taste of one (or many more) of their exquisite drink combinations. A visit to the spectacular WCs is a must, although not, perhaps, if you’re inclined to catoptrophobia (fear of mirrors) ... bocagrande.cat

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Barcelona twice daily, and from Cork twice weekly in October.

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7 The Dead Rabbit, New York Hospitality in the old New York, American-Irish tradition is the trademark of the multi-award winning The Dead Rabbit Grocery and Grog – to give it its full name – run by Belfast men Sean Muldoon and Jack McGarry. Come into The Parlor in this Lower Manhattan hostelry and choose from “historically accurate” mixed drinks, such as Guilty as Sin (whiskey/cognac/mescal), dreamed up by 19th-century bartenders. A very Gangs of New York vibe. deadrabbitnyc.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York twice daily, from Shannon six times per week and from Dublin to Newark daily.

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The Blind Pig, Dublin

Evoking the American Prohibition era, this citycentre speakeasy is very coy about its location. You need to call or email ahead to find out where you can imbibe concoctions such as “The Godfather” (Tullamore Dew and amaretto), a twist on Marlon Brando’s favourite cocktail, or the Bee’s Knees (gin/honey/lemon). They organise cocktail-making classes for groups too. theblindpig.ie

SMART EDIT | COCKTAIL BARS

The “mixologists” certainly know their stuff at this popular city-centre bar, serving inventive signature cocktails as well as many of the classics. Feted for having Germany’s best bartenders, as well being voted the country’s top bar, it’s the perfect place to start or finish – or bookend even – your night out. spiritsbar.de

WOLFGANG SIMM

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Spirits, Cologne

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Düsseldorf twice daily, and from Cork twice weekly in October.

Dogma, Antwerp Forget the sophisticates and enjoy the brash and bawdy approach to mixing drinks in this lively bar, just over 40 kilometres from the Belgian capital.

In surroundings that are “soaked in sex and rock ‘n’ roll”, tikis, beer cocktails and long drinks are among the menu collections and there is even a “Pregnant Selection” – holy water or ginger ale. dogmacocktails.be

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Brussels up to three times daily.

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OVER TO YOU

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Next issue we share your favourite National Parks at Aer Lingus destinations. Have your say @CARAMagazine, using the hashtag #CaraYSWS.

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THE FULL MANC

Manchester’s Food and Drink Festival underlines the northern British city’s emergence as a gustatory powerhouse.

WORDS EMMA STURGESS PHOTOGRAPHS MARK DUGGAN

Oven ready – a staffer at Altrincham Food Court, opposite, means business. This page, Lucy Dixon of Grindsmith Coffee.

DESTINATION | MANCHESTER

o say that Manchester finds its appetite during the Food and Drink Festival (foodanddrinkfestival. com) would be disingenuous. After years in the culinary wilderness, Manchester now has a permanent appetite – for quality food, independent spirit and restaurants both big and shiny and rough and ready. But the annual festival, which runs until October 10, celebrates this gustatory relish like no other event.

MFDF sets up shop every year in front of the city’s Neo-Gothic Town Hall. Here, a beer bar dispensing 100 regional brews knocks shoulders with a charity bake off, pop-up pintxo bar, vegan banquet and tasting menu from The French at the Midland Hotel (see ‘Sleep at’, page 82), one of the

T

Madferrit – Carolina Saa and Marri Motta, above, at this year’s Food Festival, its ‘Hub’ fronting the Town Hall, right, on Albert Square.

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biggest hitters in town.

As a local, I can’t help but be enthused by what’s happening.

You can (and absolutely should) get crisp chicken skin with foie gras mousse and aged Parmesan at Manchester House (18-22 Bridge Street, Spinningfields, +44 161 835 2557; manchesterhouse.uk.com), where Aiden Byrne and the late, great restaurateur Tim Bacon were united in ambition. You can also find great coffee (try Grindsmith on Deansgate; grindsmith.com), superb bread (from Companio’s bike on Tuesdays and Thursdays at Victoria Station) and brilliantly ridiculous cake (from dessert bar MilkJam, home of whole pies baked into cakes; milkjamcreamery.com).

For a little perspective, though, there’s no-one like an incomer.

Action Against Hunger’s Caroline Dyer recently moved from London to Manchester to manage the

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Book your Christmas 2016 Party at Gogartys • 3 Course Festive Dinner/Lunch Menu from €25 Private dining and Bar options available • Selection of discounted Fine Bordeaux wines Live Irish Music every day from 12.30pm until 2.30am

Gogartys 58 -59 Fleet Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 tel: +353 (0)1 6711 822 • email: restaurant@gogartys.ie

www.gogartys.ie

DESTINATION | MANCHESTER

SLEEP AT …

SPACIOUS Teachers at the repurposed Victorian schoolhouse Great John Street would be open-mouthed at its transformation into a hotel bursting with luxurious detail. Many of the rooms are duplex; all are appropriately categorised as “grand”.

Inside-outside space is a rare treat; at the top is a rooftop lounge and playground and, downstairs, a library and private terrace. Rooms from £226. (Great John Street, +44 161 831 3211; eclectichotels.co.uk) 82 |

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FOOTBALLERS’ FAVE With one foot in Salford and one in Manchester, The Lowry has the biggest bedrooms in either city and feels gloriously spacious.

A recent refurb celebrates Manchester without relying too heavily on cliché, but the one preconception about The Lowry – that footballers love it – remains true. Afternoon tea in the restaurant is a big hit. Rooms from £107. (50 Dearmans Place, +44 161 827 4000; thelowryhotel.com)

GOURMET The grand old lady of St Peter’s Square, The Midland has the cachet of attracting chef and forager extraordinaire Simon Rogan, whose takeover of intimate, high-end restaurant The French has proved a Good Food Guide-pleasing success.

Downstairs, there’s a chic spa whose therapists go the extra mile to personalise treatments, making The Midland remarkably hard to leave.

Rooms from £98.

(16 Peter Street, +44 161 236 3333; qhotels.co.uk)

Great Northern British Bake Off – clockwise from top left, tastebudseducing treats at El Gato Negro; Milkjam; Honest Crust Pizza, and The Great Northern Pie Company.

Opposite, diverse dining at Altrincham Food Hall.

fundraising efforts of the northwest chefs and restaurateurs who support the charity’s aim to end child hunger. She says, “What I like about Manchester is that it doesn’t listen to anybody else, it really does do its own thing. I feel I’m right in the middle; there’s a restaurant opening almost every week. You can see how far forward Manchester wants to push itself, but it takes its heritage with it.”

Caroline’s visitors get the full Manc. “I take them to independent places, which is what Manchester does really well. El Gato Negro (elgatonegrotapas.com) is a favourite.

Walking round the Northern Quarter, which a friend said feels like Brooklyn, you can get great food at Evelyn’s (evelynscafebar. com), or grab a slice of pizza or a great burger. There’s a really good ambience pouring onto the streets.”

The less said about pouring onto the streets, the better – no one would claim that Manchester is reliably dry – but there’s plenty to be said for the suburbs. At the end of one of the city’s rapidly multiplying tram lines, Altrincham is an easy 30-minute hop and home to a recently revived market. The covered Market House (altrinchammarket.co.uk) is now the refectory of dreams, where locals and visitors vie for tables at which to eat Honest Crust’s standout pizzas, swirl a glass of something from Reserve Wines, and try one of The Great North Pie Company’s truly magnificent pies. It has also spawned other businesses. Across the way, Sugo Pasta Kitchen’s high standards are inspired by nonna’s own meticulous kitchencraft.

Also worth the tram journey, are the two Didsburys. In Didsbury Village, chef Gary Usher is on track for the October opening of his third restaurant, Hispi. It will be the second crowd-funded restaurant for this accomplished cook, who charmed Twitter with truthful, often sweary, dispatches from his Chester restaurant. “I lived here ten years ago and loved it,” he says.

“I was in the city centre but have more connections with the suburbs now. I like the feeling; there are

DRINK AT ...

DIVEY The new basement bar and music venue Red Door is crammed with Manc memorabilia done right.

It’s deliberately divey, but the back bar is a sight to behold, rich with cocktail-based promise.

It was the final project of the much-missed Tim Bacon, the hospitality pioneer who died earlier this year, having played no small part in the Manchester food and drink revolution. (78 Deansgate, +44 161 832 2808; reddoor.uk.com)

LIVELY A booming bier palace with weekly live musik, Albert’s Schloss is a bar like no other.

Dispensing super-fresh, unpasteurised tank Pilsner with a side order of Mancunian cheek, Albert’s doesn’t take itself too seriously – but there’s certainly plenty to chew on for beer buffs. Nonhopheads can push a button for prosecco or investigate the schnapps collection. (27 Peter Street, +44 161 833 4040; albertsschloss.co.uk)

SALTY Yes, the folk at Hawksmoor can cook a steak, but they can also mix a drink. They charmed Manchester by leaving the London braggadocio at home and they’ve been rewarded with a barful of regulars drinking Corpse Revivers and Concealed Weapons. The bar is dark, atmospheric and big on quality service – and the bar snacks are salty-good.

(184-186 Deansgate, +44 161 836 6980; thehawksmoor.com)

lots of independents, it suits us.

There’s a little patisserie round the corner from Hispi called Bisous Bisous (bisousbisous.co.uk), which is phenomenally good. I’ve also got into the grilled chicken at our neighbours, Solita (solita.co.uk).

They brine it and cook it on the Inka grill. I couldn’t believe how moist it is, it’s really clever.”

In nearby West Didsbury, DJs and bar owners Luke Cowdrey

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to MANCHESTER five times daily, and from Cork up to three times daily.

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DESTINATION | MANCHESTER

“Walking around the Northern Quarter, which a friend says feels like Brooklyn, you can get food at Evelyn’s, grab a slice of pizza or burger”

Clockwise from top left, Evelyn’s Café Bar; the carnivorous Cane & Grain in the Northern Quarter; tender street art; Altrincham Food Hall is pet friendly; take a load off at Evelyn’s, and a hearty brew at Grindsmith coffee shop.

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DESTINATION | MANCHESTER

and Justin Crawford made their move into food with Volta, where small plates, effortlessly cool punters and pavement tables conjure a loose, Mancunian take on the Med. Once best known for seminal club night Electric Chair, they are now swimming with the big fish with The Refuge by Volta in Manchester’s landmark Palace Hotel (Oxford Street, +44 161 233 5151; refugemcr.co.uk). Just opened, it’s got so much going for it – including a long bar stocked with local drinks, stunning tiled interior, hidden club space and even a secret street – that you don’t need to eat, but our sneak preview of dishes, including sea bass with tamarind and peanuts, suggests that you very much should.

Cowdrey is a fan of Altrincham Market, Northenden Vietnamese joint Mì & Pho (miandpho.com), and Rusholme’s “side-street pirate places and their lamb koobideh, Afghani rice with raisins and amazing breads. The motto of Electric Chair is seek and ye shall find, and for food it’s never been more relevant. There’s loads out there.”

SMART TIPS Manchester Literature Festival (October 7-23) is passionately run and supported, and its literary walking tours include a Thinkers and Drinkers pub crawl and a Gothic Literature walk. manchesterliteraturefestival. co.uk Maxine Peake is brilliant in Sarah Frankcom’s production of A Streetcar Named Desire at the Royal Exchange until October 15. Can’t catch it? Drop in to the cool, hushed space surrounding the in-the-round auditorium for the calmest five minutes in Manchester. royalexchange.co.uk

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Electric Chair DJs Luke Cowdrey and Justin Crawford have successfully moved into the city’s food and drink scene with Volta.

MUST VISITS ...

ART With an awardwinning glazed extension stretching out into the park, the University of Manchester’s flagship Whitworth Art Gallery is stunning. A programme of contemporary artwork adds considerable zip to its extensive collections, which include textiles, wallpapers and a significant holding of prints. Design fetishists will love the superior, neatly ordered shop.

(Oxford Street, +44 161 275 7450; whitworth. manchester.ac.uk)

LITERARY The refurbished Manchester Central Library is a landmark building with real civic purpose, and its general lending areas are thronged with visitors.

Upstairs, the circular, dome-topped Wolfson Reading Room has a spectacular ceiling and the echoing acoustics are worth a whisper by the wall. From the ground floor, you can see straight up to the top.

(St Peter’s Square, +44 161 234 1983; manchester.gov.uk)

SHOPPING The Northern Quarter’s fame might make it more raucous than cool on weekends, but there’s still plenty to love about Manchester’s most distinctive district – even without the booze.

Shop for streetwear (Oi Polloi for boys: oipolloi.com; Retro Rehab for girls: retrorehab.co.uk), stop for coffee at Fig + Sparrow (figandsparrow.co.uk), then browse the mags at Magma (magma-shop.com).

Molly Malone Statue opposite O’Neill’s

The Head Chef Dave carving from a selection of freshly roasted meats at the Carvery

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onveniently set in the heart of the city, around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and across the road from the Molly Malone Statue, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Trade has flourished here uninterrupted for over 300 years.

When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies.

To make your visit enjoyable we offer you ...

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Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous Carvery serving only the finest Irish Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, Lonely Planet rate us as one of the Top 5 Places to find ´Real Irish food in Dublin’

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Irish Music and Traditional Irish Dancing 7 nights-a-week

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Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area

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Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on draught in Ireland, representing as many of the local Craft Breweries as possible, rotating and guesting beers

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Pour Your Own Pint tables

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Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers

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For the whiskey connoisseur there’s our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys and malts

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HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan with major international league games.

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Our ‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast can’t be beaten for quality and value. 11 items plus tea/coffee and toast, pictured below.

Really Good Full Irish Breakfast only

€6.95

*This special offer is available Mon-Fri only, 8am-11.30am.

Our ‘Really Good’ Breakfast Menu is served 7 days a week.

Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week

M.J. O’Neill Suffolk Street, Dublin 2 Tel. 01 679 3656 www.oneillspubdublin.com

Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796

Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin

*

AShore Thing

DESTINATION | LA COAST

Counterpoint the la-la of Los Angeles with the chill-zones of Santa Monica, Venice Beach and Malibu.

WORDS LUCY WHITE PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTIN TEIG

Canal life, Blauwburgwal, in Centrum.

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Malibu, with a squeeze of lime ... surf’s up on the west coast.

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DESTINATION | LA COAST

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anta Monica and Venice are so laid-back, they’re not so much horizontal but supine on a sun lounger, Aperol spritz in one hand and yoga mat in the other. West of Downtown LA, they’re both an antidote from the starry hustle and bustle of Beverly Hills, the commercial hub of Pershing Square, the LGBT-buzz of West Hollywood and Fairfax, and the old, genteel money of Brentwood.

While LA is known for its car-centricism, Santa Monica’s Third Street Promenade is pleasingly pedestrianised. In contrast to the blockbuster fashion brands of Rodeo Drive (Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Cartier, etc), the Promenade’s raison d’ être is considerably casual, with shops including Madewell, lululemon, J.Crew, GAP and Banana Republic dotted along its wide, leafy streets that become a purple haze of jacaranda blooms in spring. Street-spilling cafés, restaurants and cinemas also make this a place to linger.

Elsewhere, on Wilshire Boulevard, is Huckleberry (huckleberrycafe.com), whose virtuous, “superfood” salads are beautifully negated by unctuous lemon squares, cookies, cheesecake, tarts, sponges and doughnuts a-gogo. “I think my date might be gay ...” confided an older lady as I waited in line for the bathroom, adding, “so

maybe I’ll make a new friend?” Which says everything you need to know about this optimistic, liberally-minded city.

And then there’s the seafront, famous for both its funfair-boasting pier and also Muscle Beach, where biceps are curled and vanity flexed. Channel Hollywood’s golden age by checking into the Hotel Shangri-La (see ‘Sleep at’, page 92) before hiring a bike, Segway, rollerblades – or just plain old walk – to Venice Beach, less than five kilometres away.

There, all the stuff of legend is true: the artists, the writers, the rubberneckers, the surfers, the stoners, the freaks, the hypnotic rise and fall of the skate-parkers.

If you’ve seen the listless Netflix series Flaked, you’ll be sure to recognise the low-rise backdrops of Abbot Kinney’s coffee shops, clapboard bungalows, surf dudes – and even Googlers, whose LA outpost is in an office designed by Frank Gehry and fronted by a giant binocular sculpture by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen.

No Venice editorial is complete though without a deserving mention of Gjelina (gjelina.com) – a notoriously good neighbourhood bar and restaurant – and The Butcher’s Daughter (thebutchersdaughter.com), a relaxed, “rustic”, bleached-wood vegetarian hip-spot, both on Abbot Kinney Boulevard. We love you, man.

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Book online at www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com and receive a 10% discount on adult tickets

From Clarion to Clayton Hotel Cork City

The hotel is superbly located overlooking Cork’s famous River Lee and facing the inspired architecture of City Hall and offers a wide range of amenities including Kudos Bar, the restaurant, Essence Spa, SanoVitae health and fitness club and a range of meeting and conference facilities to suit your every need from 2-350 guests.

From 22nd November we will be the Clayton Hotel Cork City our name is changing but still offering the same great service #claytoncorkcity2016 claytonhotelcorkcity.com

DESTINATION | LA COAST

2 1 Channel your inner starlet, or matinée idol, at the Hotel Shangri-La’s glamorous pool in Santa Monica. shangrila-hotel.com

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2 Gallery assistant Erica Entrop, who works at the Lois Lambert Gallery, which is part of the Bergamot Station arts complex on Santa Monica’s Michigan Avenue. loislambertgallery.com

SLEEP AT …

ART DECO Built in 1939 and awarded a preservation gong by the Santa Monica Conservancy in 2009 for its faithful restoration, Hotel Shangri-La epitomises the Deco era. Its clean, white, Streamline Moderne lines evoke a luxury cruise-liner, while rooms are distinctly mod-con, some of which overlook the Pacific Ocean. Added bonus: its bathrobes are among the plushest you’ll find and it has 92 |

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ONYX, a rooftop bar with beach panoramas. Rooms from $319. (1301 Ocean Avenue, Santa Monica, +1 310 394 2791; shangrila-hotel.com) GROUPS Angelenos are infamous for their health-kick regimes, making Calamigos Guest Ranch the perfect spot at which to go native with friends or family.

A two-hectare hideaway a tenminute drive away from Malibu

Beach, it offers a beach club, horse trekking, yoga, surfing, golf, whale watching, wine tours and spa treatment diversions. Cottages from $415. (South, 327 Latigo Canyon Road, Malibu, +1 818 889 6280; calamigosguestranch.com) VALUE Formerly the Inn at Marina del Rey, The Kinney made its debut this summer and has Millennials firmly in its sights (but

don’t let that put you off), for its Insta-worthy, contemporary take on 1960s Pop. And in the unlikely event you get tired of the bright decor (teal, yellow, oranges), games room and heated outdoor pool, the storied Venice Beach is less than a ten-minute amble away. Rooms from $204.

(737 West Washington Boulevard, Venice, +1 310 821 4455; thekinneyvenicebeach.com)

3 3 The street life of Abbot Kinney in Venice, backdrop to the Netflix series Flaked.

4

4 Zest laid plans ... a visit to Santa

Monica’s Farmers Market on Main Street every Sunday is a must for foodies. smgov.net 5 Boards ahoy in Malibu.

6 Farm eggs and toasted soldiers are among the many delights at The Butcher’s Daughter restaurant in Venice. thebutchersdaughter.com

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DESTINATION | LA COAST

7

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7 Go green with envy at how the other half live on the Venice canals.

8 When in Rome ... Malibu Farm’s apple and kale juice, the drink of choice for many a health-kicking Californian.

9 Pedal power on Venice’s bustling Abbot Kinney Boulevard.

SMART TIPS WH EELY GOOD Get the lay of the land of Santa Monica and Venice on an electronicbike Pedal Or Not tour.

A chipper guide will show you the sights over three hours, from $68 per person. pedalornot.net UNITED FRONT From the outside, a Modernist home; from the inside, Shulamit Nazarian’s eponymous gallery is a treasure trove of contemporar y art from the Middle East and Arab/ Iranian/Jewish diaspora. shulamitnazarian.com

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“D&C has set the benchmark for casual Italian dining in the capital..” - Hotpress Magazine

Valued of casual Italianthe restaurants “Dunnecollection & Crescenzi has changed way the Irish eat” - Tom Doorley

“D&C has set the&benchmark Italian dining “Pioneering reigning” -for Thecasual New York Times in the capital..” - Hotpress Magazine

Preparing students for

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14-16 South Frederick St. Dublin 2 Ph:+353 (1) 6759892

11 Seafort Avenue Sandymount, Dublin 4 Ph: +353 (1) 6673252

L’O cina Dundrum Ph: +353 (1) 2166764

L’O cina Kildare Ph: +353 045 535850

• Co-educational day school for children aged 4-18 • German lessons from Kindergarten to Secondary School • Preparation for the Irish Certificate Exams

Bar Italia Ormond Quay Ph: +353 (1) 8741000

• German language diploma DSD and Sek1 • International environment, strong European focus in its curriculum • Knowledge of German not required

www.dunneandcrescenzi.com

St. Kilian’s German School / Eurocampus, Roebuck Road, Clonskeagh, Dublin 14 +353 1 288 3323

secretary@kilians.com

www.kilians.com

DESTINATION | LA COAST

10 11

10 Every first Friday of the month, Abbot Kinney hosts a food truck festival. abbotkinneyfirstfridays.com

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to LOS ANGELES . four times per week.

11 The herbivore’s favourite,

The Butcher’s Daughter.

12 California gold – watching

the sun melt over the Pacific Ocean never gets old.

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5 BEST

CHRISTMAS MARKET CITIES Lauren Heskin has the presents of mind to get into the festive spirit.

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GOTHIC

PRAGUE This vibrantly historical city is spectacular at any time of year, but particularly in winter when temperatures drop and the hen and stag parties become less ubiquitous. The soaring Gothic spires of the Old Town pierce crisp, cold skies like splintered ice, while, below, the festive Czech bitters, becherovka, keeps the Christmas crowds warm.

PRAGUE CITY TOURISM

CHRISTMAS AT There are several markets scattered across the city (December 3 to January 4, 2017), most within walking distance of one another.

The principal ones are in the beautiful Old Town Square and the aptly titled Wenceslas Square, named after the Czech duke immortalised in the carol. While you can buy unusual glassware, ceramics and Christmas gifts at these markets, the big draw has to be the food. Spit-roasted hams, Czech beers, pastries, medovina (honeyed wine), barbecued sausages and sauerkraut – prepare to begin your Christmas eating habits here. Be sure not to miss trdelník, a rolled cake cooked over an open flame and then coated in sugar and ground walnuts.

DON’T MISS The Žižkov district, a neighbourhood that comes alive at night, has a wide array of stunning architectural gems, including the Žižkov Television Tower, the Church of the Most Sacred Heart and Olšany Cemetery.

SLEEP AT Housed in a 13th-century former monastery, Augustine hotel’s luxurious fabrics, elaborate ceilings, elegant furnishings and exposed beams make for cosy hibernation from the chilly Prague winter. Rooms from €252. augustinehotel.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Prague four times weekly.

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WIENTOURISMUS

/ PETER RIGAUD

WIENTOURISMUS / PETER RIGAUD

DON’T MISS Aside from the twinkling lights of the markets, there is plenty to see and do. A hike up the tower of St Stephen’s Cathedral is a must for grand views over the city and its numerous palaces. The Ringstrasse encompasses some of the city’s most stunning architecture within its streets. Take your pick of museums, parliament buildings and university campus – the Zaha Hadiddesigned library is a particular highlight.

SPECTACULAR

VIENNA The Austrian capital is one of Europe’s most beautiful cities – its museums, theatres, history and stunning architecture make it a fascinating place to visit. Come November you’ll not only be looking up at the opera house and the Hofburg Palace, but also the larger-than-life lights strung up in trees outside the Wiener Rathaus (the city hall) and the “snow” covered stalls beneath.

CHRISTMAS AT There are six Christmas markets in Vienna, the largest of which is nestled amongst the trees in front of the City Hall (November 11 to December 26; christkindlmarkt.at). One of the most spectacular markets, it’s packed with unusual, handmade decorations and gifts that can’t be found at run-of-the-mill markets. Be sure to pick up a cup of glühwein to keep warm and soak up the festivities of the city.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Vienna daily.

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SLEEP AT The Guesthouse Vienna is within sight of the grand Vienna Opera House and the Albertina Museum, a former Habsburg palace. It’s the ideal base for a weekend in the city and the stylish rooms host some spectacular views of the historic Vienna skyline. Rooms from €217. theguesthouse.at

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SMART EDIT | CHRISTMAS MARKETS

TRADITIONAL

COLOGNE You don’t need to visit every museum, although there are many excellent ones, to understand Cologne’s history.

It’s layered into the fabric of every street – Roman ruins, Medieval churches, modern architecture and avant-garde structures at every turn. But its activities are anything but retrospective; it has a vibrant art and culture scene, busy nightlife and delicious eats.

SLEEP AT The QVEST Hideaway hotel is in the heart of the Old Town, in a magnificent Victorian building. Leaving the period features to speak for themselves, it’s understated and chic, with all the comforts of a high-end hideaway.

Rooms from €170. qvest-hotel.com DON’T MISS The Chocolate Museum, beside the sail-like white tents of the Harbour Christmas Market, is a seasonal must visit (and by seasonal we mean every season). It’s only open on Mondays through December but it’s a fascinating way to spend a few hours, learning about the history and production process of chocolate, while also sipping/ chowing on the stuff in the café. Plus, you can witness a Lindt Chocolate factory in action. chocolatemuseumcologne.com

KOELNERWEIHNACHTSMARKT.COM

CHRISTMAS AT You can’t have a Christkindlmarkt list without mentioning one from the founding country and Cologne hosts some of the best in all of Germany (November 21

to December 23; colognetourism.com). Its collection of markets, from the beautifully festive gathering outside Cologne Cathedral and the rustic, sylvan option in Stadtgarten, to the Village of St Nicholas in the Rudolfplatz, will send imaginations into full flight.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Düsseldorf twice daily.

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RICH YEE

TIME-TRAVEL

SAN FRANCISCO This city always has a kooky vibe but, during the holiday season, restaurants, shops and bars really get into the Christmas spirit, despite the mid-teens temperature outside. The City Hall is beautifully lit in red and green, Christmas trees adorn Fisherman’s Wharf and Union Square, with an ice-rink at the latter. Shops go all out, with windows festooned in wreaths and twinkling lights.

CHRISTMAS AT Journey back in time to Victorian England with the Dickens Christmas Fair in Daly City. Over five weekends from November 19, watch the Bay Area’s Cow Palace Exhibition Halls become lamp-lit London streets, complete with holiday carollers, dinky tearooms, old-fashioned Christmas gifts and hundreds of costumed merry-makers to get you in the festive mood.

Have your hair braided, your fortune told and

dance the night away at Fezziwig’s famous Christmas Eve party, where tables groan under the weight of roast beef, Yorkshire puddings, mince pies and buttered rum.

Even Scrooge would have a good time. dickensfair.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to San Francisco daily in October, and five times weekly in November.

SLEEP AT You may be feeling Christmassy but this is still California and you won’t forget it in the airy Phoenix Hotel. The rough-and-ready looking motel exterior gives way to spaces that have Cali chill written into every brightly coloured hemp cushion and colour-blocked wall. Rooms from $149. jdvhotels.com

t Santa Run DON’T MISS ... The San Francisco Grea r is a 5k fun run that takes place on Decembe attire for all 11. You’ll get a Santa suit and hat, necessary that doubles up competitors, as well as a finisher’s medal nsf.com as a tree ornament. Win-win! greatsantaru

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FULSOME

Belgian cuisine is made for winter.

Hearty wheat ales, sugar-dusted waffles, split-pea soup, steaming frites with a dollop of mayo to keep you warm on the cobbled streets ... We haven’t even mentioned the thick hot chocolate yet. And the capital city follows in festive suit, with numerous markets, ice-rinks and a phenomenal light display in La Grand-Place.

gifts and fair games, and you’ll find a spiced cider and mulled wine stand on every corner to keep the chill at bay. La Grand-Place is usually the centre of the festive goings-on, which includes an extraordinary light show projected onto the 17th-century Town Hall building, and an ice-rink beside a decked out, eight-metre-tall Christmas tree.

CHRISTMAS AT The city centre is littered with Christmas markets, in the Place de la Monnaie, Place Sainte-Catherine and the Marché aux Poissons (November 25 to January 1, 2017; winterwonders.be), each cluster of wooden chalets hosting crafts, food,

DON’T MISS Belgium is one of Europe’s smallest countries but there’s plenty to see across its 19,000-plus square kilometres. A short train journey will bring you to the Bruges, Leuven or Ghent winter wonderlands, each with its own festive specialties.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Brussels 14 times weekly.

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CICI OLS SON

BRUSSELS

SLEEP AT Not satisfied with simply being near one of Brussels’ most beautiful buildings, L’Hôtel des Galeries is actually in the historic Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert shopping arcade.

The crisp sheets and gorgeous velvet curtains of this artfully contemporary hotel are enough to make you want a duvet day in chilly Brussels.

But you have to get up, not least because its restaurant, Le Comptoir des Galeries in the Galerie du Roi, does some of the city’s finest waffles. Rooms from €190. hoteldesgaleries.be

DESTINATION | LONDON

48 HOURS IN

LONDON Tired of London, tired of life? Never, says Neil Hegarty, who shows us the sights.

Sleep at ...

FASHIONABLE Old money heads for the lovely St James district – and the Sofitel St James, housed in a stately former bank building, and featuring spacious rooms, a smart spa, and an atmospheric bar and restaurant, is well situated to make the most of the area’s delights. Doubles from £390.

(6 Waterloo Place, +44 207 747 2200; sofitelstjames.com)

Above, the London skyline from the Thames, and below, the plush surroundings of The Bloomsbury hotel.

TRADITIONAL The Victorian façade of the Landmark is just that: a landmark in chic Marylebone – and things get better still inside this grand, former railway hotel. Try the pool and excellent spa, or a delightfully traditional afternoon tea.

Comfortable bedrooms – and don’t miss the fabulously ritzy Mirror Bar. Doubles from £385. (222 Marylebone Road, +44 207 631 8000; landmarklondon.co.uk) ROMANTIC Come to The Bloomsbury for a charming welcome – and the highest standards of accommodation, complete with fine linens and glossy marble bathrooms. Check out the Club Bar, newly revamped in the spirit of the decadent 1920s – and look out for the regular literary evenings hosted here. Doubles from £260. (16-22 Great Russell Street, +44 207 347 1000; doylecollection.com) 106 |

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FAMILY TIES

Neil Hegarty follows his bestselling biography of Sir David Frost, That Was the Life That Was, with his debut novel: Inch Levels (Head of Zeus, €16.99 at Eason), exploring secrets and silence in two generations of an Irish family.

Out now.

Eat at ...

FUSION UNI is Japanese for “sea urchin” – and this eponymous restaurant brings an elegant fusion of Japanese and Peruvian cuisine to fashionable Belgravia. Upstairs it’s sushi, while downstairs the menu runs to squeakyfresh seafood, light tempura dishes, sashimi and more. Decor is sleek but comfortable and prices very reasonable.

(18a Ebury Street, +44 207 730 9267; restaurantuni.com)

TAPAS-TASTIC The Ibérica family of restaurants offers excellent and authentic Spanish food, with deli counters to boot, and the Marylebone branch is light-filled and relaxing. Go down the tapas route and you’ll find delightful arrays of flavours: chilled, red-berry gazpacho, artisan hams and cheeses, seafood black rice and more.

(195 Great Portland Street, +44 207 148 1615; ibericarestaurants.com)

FRESH NOPI is an offshoot of the famed Ottolenghi empire. The usual rules apply – fresh, imaginative, veggieinclined and zesty food – but we’re talking a distinctly more restaurantesque feel, with a great wine list. The interior, all brass and marble, is beautiful; add nimble service and you’re in for a treat. (21-22 Warwick Street, +44 207 494 9584; ottolenghi.co.uk)

Drink at ...

PLUSH 11 Cadogan Gardens is that rarity in the vicinity of relentlessly fashionable Sloane Square: beautifully low key, with deep plush chairs to sink into after a long day’s shopping on the King’s Road. Decor is gold and charcoal, the coffee strong and restorative – and cocktails are made with style.

(11 Cadogan Gardens, +44 207 730 7000; 11cadogangardens.com) AUTHENTIC The St John’s Tavern is the real thing: a Victorian boozer in the heart of North London (just over the road from Archway tube), now restored to its former glory. There’s a brilliant restaurant in the back, but the light-filled bar is equally lovely and the beer is taken seriously. (91 Junction Road, +44 207 272 1587; stjohnstavern.com)

Don't miss …

FLAMING It’s 350 years since a fire erupted in a Pudding Lane bakery and went on to consume half of London, and the brilliant Museum of London is remembering this cataclysm in a bespoke exhibition. Fire! Fire! (£8/£4; until April 17, 2017) is absorbing, interactive, immersive – and great for children. (150 London Wall, +44 207 001 9844; museumoflondon.org.uk) TRANQUIL In Bloomsbury? Sidestep the crowds heading for the British Museum and instead check out the absorbing public galleries just around the corner at SOAS. The Brunei Gallery showcases marvellous collections of

Asian, African and Middle Eastern art – and don’t miss the beautifully tranquil Japanesethemed and wisteria-shaded roof garden. (Thornhaugh Street, +44 207 637 2388; soas.ac.uk) STARSTRUCK Here’s a chance to see two giants of the British stage on home turf: following their hit run on Broadway, Ian McKellen and Patrick Stewart return to the West End in Sean Mathias’ acclaimed production of Harold Pinter’s No Man’s Land until December 17 at Wyndham’s Theatre.

(Charing Cross Road, +44 844 482 5120; nomanslandtheplay.com)

Clockwise from top right: a postshopping rest stop at 11 Cadogan Gardens; Gong’s Remembering Grasshopper tipple; the blazing Fire! Fire! exhibition in the Museum of London; and NOPI’s braised egg shakshuka.

ELEVATED Fancy a room with a view?

Then take yourself along to Gong, on the 52nd floor of the Shard. There are lots of comfy banquettes along the walls but do grab a table at the window and sip a cocktail at sunset. The world at your feet; never mind the vertigo. (32 London Bridge Street, +44 207 234 8208; www.the-shard.com)

SMART FLIERS Aer Lingus has 28 flights to LONDON daily, from Du blin, Belfast, Cork and Shanno n to London Heathrow, and from Dublin and Knock to London Ga twick.

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Do hen y & Nes bi t t 4 / 5 L O W E R B A G G O T S T R E E T, D U B L I N

Live music Every Sunday and Monday from 8pm Food served all Day, Breakfast Lunch & Dinner Private function rooms available A Dublin Landmark…

One of Dublin’s oldest pubs, situated in the heart of Dublin City Centre.

Doheny & Nesbitts is a haunt for many of the country’s leading politicians, sports and media personalities with bars and function rooms over three levels. Why not sample the finest in Irish food and drink.

Come and enjoy the craic and the banter in Doheny & Nesbitts - Just a 1 minute walk from St. Stephens’ Green, a must for any trip to Dublin.

Voted overall

best pub in Ireland in the hospitality Ireland awards

W: www.dohenyandnesbitts.ie T: 00353 (0) 1 6762945 E: info@themangangroup.ie

ON BUSINESS

Making travel work for you

Oh, Vienna!

CHRISTIAN STEMPER

Behind the historic Imperial façade, the Austrian capital is a hub of creative innovation, while the city’s famed coffee-shop culture has moved with the times, as Jamie Blake Knox discovers.

WIEN TOURISMUS / CHRISTIAN STEMPER

Business

ienna has a long Imperial history, evident in its grandiose architecture and broad, tree-lined avenues. However, Vienna is also a modern, accessible and welcoming city, very much at the heart of Europe, and its pivotal location helps to explain why Vienna serves as the headquarters for many global businesses. In recent years, it has also become a hive of creative innovation. The Pioneer Festival (pioneers.io), for example, now in its

V

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to VIENNA daily.

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fifth year, hosted more than 1,500 startups from more than 90 countries in May. The redevelopment of the historic MuseumsQuartier has reenergised a vibrant cultural centre too. The late Zaha Hadid’s dazzlingly futuristic Library and Learning Centre is the focal point of the striking new campus at the University of Economics and Business. Finished just three years ago, at a cost of almost half-a-billion euro, the area has become a mini-metropolis within the city.

Daniel Cronin has lived in Vienna for the past 20 years and is co-founder of Austrian Startups (austrianstartups.com). He believes Vienna is open for business in every sense of the term.

“So many of my meetings take place in coffee shops,” he says.

“They’re just as much an integral part of Viennese society as they’ve always been.”

In Vienna, you soon realise there is a wealth of fresh creative energy bubbling behind the traditional façades of the old Imperial city.

Free stuff to do in Vienna The Viennese can be a morbid bunch. The city’s central cemetery, Zentralfriedhof, is not only one of the largest in the world but it also houses some of Vienna’s finest graves.

This Halloween you can admire some of the

elaborate constructions and memorials; pay your respects to the likes of Schubert, Brahms, Beethoven and Strauss – and perhaps find a space for contemplation. (Simmeringer Hauptstrasse 234, +43 1534 692 8405)

Eat at …

CLASSIC Not only does the Artner restaurant serve the finest steaks in town, but some parts of the cellar vaults date back to the Middle Ages. The cellar has been tastefully redesigned and holds more than 7,000 bottles. The emphasis is on wines from the rich soils of the Carnuntum region in Lower Austria. (Franziskanerplatz 5; artner.co.at)

Rustic wine taverns, known as heurigen, are dotted among the many vineyards that surround the city. Autumn is the best time to visit because it’s when they serve up the year’s new wines, along with moreish platters of cheeses, pickles and breads.

STYLISH The disordered lines of black paint over the white ceilings in Skopig & Lohn are by the local artist Otto Zitko, but cool clean furnishings offset the sense of chaos.

This restaurant specialises in creative takes on traditional Austrian dishes.

The braised lamb with mint pea purée, almonds and white polenta is succulent and light, and the cheese board is divine. (Leopoldsgasse 17, +43 1219 8977; skopikundlohn.at)

CHIC Located near the centre of the town, the focus of the stylish and urbane Labstelle restaurant is on regional, Austrian food. The menu is innovative and all produce is sustainably sourced, seasonal, and, where possible, comes from the areas directly around Vienna. The food is perfectly complemented by an extensive selection of local wines and beers. (Lugeck 6, +43 1236 2122; labstelle.at)

Opposite – the late, great Zaha Hadid’s Library and Learning Centre.

Top left, Artner, which serves a mean steak and, top right, a seasonal salad at Labstelle. As its name suggests, the delightful Vollpension, left, is run by OAPs.

MARK GLASSNER

Wein O’Clock

OFFBEAT Vollpension describes itself as an intergenerational coffee shop run by and for the old and young. It has more than 200 different cake recipes, made by no fewer than 15 grannies and grandpas. The setting is quirky and relaxed, and the cakes and coffee are superb. (Schleifmühlgasse 16, +43 1585 0464; vollpension.wien)

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Stay at ...

COOL Hotel Lamée’s 32 rooms – all of which have exquisite furnishings and marble bathrooms, left – draw inspiration from Cubism, 1930s Hollywood and the Orient Express. It has a stunning rooftop bar that overlooks the Gothic St Stephen’s Cathedral. There is also access to conference rooms and work spaces in its sister hotel, the Topazz, directly across the street. Rooms from ¤152. (Rotenturmstrasse 15, +43 1532 2240; hotellamee.com) ARTY Spittelberg is close to the city centre with scores of cool bars, cafés and restaurants.

The boutique Altstadt Hotel, located in one of the classic old houses, captures the area’s feel: eclectic style with bold colour schemes, polished parquet and floor-to-ceiling curtains.

Rooms from ¤133. (Kirchengasse 41, +43 1522 6666; altstadt.at)

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QUIRKY As someone who is apprehensive of clowns, I was reluctant to experience a hotel that takes the circus as its theme. But the rooms and suites at the 25hours Hotel are a riot of bright colours with dreamlike wallpapers from the renowned Berlin illustrator Olaf Hajek. Rooms from ¤102.

(Lerchenfelderstrasse 1-3, +43 152 1510; 25hours-hotels.com)

Nightlife at ...

ALTERNATIVE Housed in a former locomotive factory, WUK, left, is a crafts and culture centre with a difference. The building is now home to everything from human rights organisations to dance workshops and a snug pub. It is one of the best venues in the city, with a diverse music programme that ranges from alternative to hip-hop and electronica. (Währinger Strasse 59, +43 140 1210; wuk.at)

Roll up, roll up!

A lively room at the 25hours Hotel, left.

Below, the boldly beautiful Altstadt Hotel.

CHRISTINA KARAGIANNIS

HIP Despite its eccentric styling, the Dachboden bar, left, has a relaxed and cosy atmosphere just like a large living room – if, that is, your house was decorated by a circus ringmaster.

There are large sofas and tables to encourage chatting or networking.

The cocktails are potent, and it offers sensational views of the buildings on the Ringstrasse and the adjacent palaces. (Lerchenfelderstrasse 1-3, +43 152 1510) BBQ The Brickmakers has the best selection of local and international craft beers in Vienna. Its restaurant, left, is called Big Smoke and takes barbecuing to new levels of sophistication. The Brickmakers’ platter, which includes ribs, Southern fried chicken, sausages and pulled beef, is meant for two but it’s hard not to devour the lot on your own! (Zieglergasse 42, +43 1997 4414; brickmakers.at) TRADITIONAL An authentic classic, the Kaffee Alt Wien is smoky and dimly lit, and its walls are covered with peeling old film posters from the 1950s, left. It is always crowded, buzzing with people and conversation. It’s open from 10am in the morning till 2am every night and is a good place to while away an entire evening. (Bäckerstrasse 9, +43 1512 5222; kaffeealtwien.at)

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O LE E DO AOIF

TRADITIONAL The Naschmarkt celebrated its centenary this year and is something of an institution.

On either side, there are apartment buildings decorated with faded Art Nouveau paintings and mosaics. Its food stalls sell everything from Viennese cakes to Vietnamese dishes. Try the kaiserschmarrn – a shredded pancake served with icing sugar and warm fruit compote. On the weekend there is also an engaging flea market. (1060 Wien)

Y

Play at ...

ICONIC With its distinctive golden-leaf dome, the Secession gallery is a masterpiece of Viennese Art Nouveau. Above its entrance is the slogan “To every age its art, to every art its freedom”, reinstated after the Nazis tore it down, meanwhile Gustav Klimt’s Beethoven Frieze has been painstakingly restored. It also hosts an international programme of contemporary exhibitions.

(Friedrichstrasse 12, +43 1587 5307; secession.at) COSY Kleines Café may be very small inside, and the furnishings are plain and, perhaps, slightly worn, but this café still exudes Bohemian charm. There are more ornate locations but I couldn’t imagine anywhere better to spend a rainy afternoon, with a delicious apple strudel and coffee, engrossed in a good book, or simply enjoying the excellent people watching.

(Franziskanerplatz 3)

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The Secession gallery combines a permanent Art Nouveau collection with contemporary exhibits.

We applaud

natural instinct

When geese fly south for the winter, their natural instinct is to fly in a V formation.

They do it for a very good reason, it allows them to reduce air resistance which means they can fly 70% further in formation than they could if they flew alone.

At Savills we believe with experience comes natural instinct.

The instinct that allows you to seize a real opportunity or walk away.

And, much like the geese, the natural instinct of our teams is to work collaboratively with our clients, so together we go further.

There are many things that set us apart, we believe our natural instinct is just one of them.

savills.ie

Business

A DAY IN THE LIFE

I LOVE VISITING …

6am This is the normal wake up time in our house, except on Tuesdays and Thursdays, when I have early swimming training in Lough Owel or go for a long morning run. My gear is downstairs and I hop into the car in my hoody, Speedo’s and flip-flops or runners.

I drive to the lake for a two-kilometre swim route with a few other nutters. Then back to the house for breakfast with the kids and my wife Denise; get showered, dressed and it’s out the door again. Occasionally, I drop one, or two, of the kids to school. We are lucky as we live in Mullingar – everything is close to us and there’s typically no traffic. Our factory is only five kilometres from the house, too.

8.30am I arrive at the factory; I’m always the first one in, so I turn on the coffee machine and get everything warmed up. The rest of the team arrive after 9am and coffee is served. Depending on the mood and the morning, we change what we drink – at the moment filter is my favourite.

9.30am We have a team meeting and discuss plans for the day. Normally, the smell of roasting coffee starts to permeate the air around now as production kicks in. Orders come in and they are sent out for picking and delivery the next day. As I’m in charge of sales, I am always on the phone, and answering emails and making proposals take up a lot of my day.

10.30am I leave the roastery and head out to meet current and potential customers.

We are a very proactive company, so travel is second nature to me at this stage. I can do up to 1,500 kilometres per week, meaning I work a lot from the car, which I actually 116 |

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PHOTOGRAPH BY JOANNE MURPHY

What’s a normal day when you have three children under eight, a new puppy, a fledgling business and you decide to start training for an Ironman race? Stephen Bell of Bell Lane Coffee puts in the hours. enjoy as I have no distractions and you can concentrate on what you are doing. It’s not for everyone but it is all I have known for many years. I aim to visit at least six customers a day, as well as prospecting for new business.

Rome is big favourite of mine as it’s such a great hub for both pleasure and work.

I am often in Italy on business as a guest of Nuova Simonelli, with whom we deal a lot.

I love the coffee scene in Rome as well as the opportunity for great food and sightseeing.

12.30pm I take an early lunch as I’m up early. If I am training for an Ironman, I possibly have dinner now and another light meal in the late afternoon. I get some more work done and catch up on emails and return calls I have missed throughout the day.

3.30pm I would aim to make my way home at this stage. If I left Dublin after 4pm, the traffic would be a disaster getting out of the city. I can get to the motorway in 30 minutes and then ease back to Mullingar by 5pm.

I make some more calls on the way home and, if I need to send some emails, I pull over to a lay-by and do a half-hour’s work.

Munich airport, surprisingly, is actually a great place to get delayed in as you have so much to do! It has an outdoor tennis court, and a live match is often being played, so you can watch that or else head into the city to take in the sights of the Bavarian capital.

6.30pm Home. I have tea and toast and I’m normally back out the door with one of the kids to athletics or hurling practice until 8pm. If possible, I can also squeeze in a run for the hour, or Denise might go instead.

8.30pm Back after kids’ training and get them showered and into bed. Denise has made the lunches and dinner for the following day as we both work in Bell Lane and time is precious. Television is very limited so we either sit and chat about the day or catch up with family on the phone.

10.30pm Bedtime – we need our sleep as our days are not normal ...

Another Italian favourite is Bologna, in Northern Italy. I love this city for its superb hospitality, the rich culture and history, and, of course, the food, which is exceptional. The Piazza Maggiore, in the centre of town, is a joy to wander around with its great cafés and even better people watching.

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Business

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GADGET From the early-morning flight to the evening run, Bang & Olufsen’s Beoplay H5 wireless headphones have your back. Splash and dust resistant, and crafted out of textured rubber and polymer to withstand wear and tear, there’s up to five hours’ battery life. With a magnet in each earpiece so that you can wear them around your neck, say goodbye to tangled wires. €249, beoplay.com

EVENT Europe’s largest digital society conference, re:publica, swaps Berlin for Dublin this October 20 but the conference’s agenda remains the same: net politics, digital rights and the development of the digital society, plus major issues of the day, from Brexit to hacker culture. re-publica.com

3 BUSINESS

TRAVEL HOT LIST

ACCESSORY What happens when a luxury Italian luggage specialist joins forces with a cult notebook brand? You get the Moleskine by Bric’s line of bags and suitcases. The capsule collection ranges from a functional backpack for short trips, up to a sturdy, hard shell trolley, above. Inside each bag there’s a business organiser with room for gadgets, while the fluorescent lining gives a nod to the much-loved notebooks. brics.it

Eats, tech, accessories and events – Lisa Hughes has it covered.

4

STAY A $50 million expansion complete, Boston’s Back Bay staple Hotel Commonwealth has 96 new guestrooms, including a suite overlooking the famous Fenway Park. Splashes of classic prints give it a preppy feel, and “virtual concierges” allow you to request room service and check in for your flight. Rooms from $339. (500 Commonwealth Avenue, +1 617 933 5000; hotelcommonwealth.com)

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APP Go from Tradeshift takes the pain out of expense management.

Ideal for SMEs, Go tracks transactions and sends email alerts direct to finance teams. With its chat interface, the multitasking app can book work trips, flights and car rental and then store your travel preferences to personalise your next trip.

Tradeshift.com/Go

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EVENT Online platforms have proved they can hold their own but publishers are still trying to figure out how to make digital platforms profitable and tackle ad blocking. At the Digiday Publishing Summit in Europe in Nice this October 26-28, leading publishing heads, including Wolfgang Blau, chief digital officer at Condé Nast International, and Kate Ward, VP of International at Refinery29, muse on the latest hurdles facing digital platforms. digiday.com

7

EAT Treat clients to authentic Pacific Rim cuisine in the heart of London’s Mayfair at Black Roe Poke Bar & Grill. For the uninitiated, poke is a Hawaiian, marinated, raw fish dish but Black Roe also serves a variety of fresh seafood and oysters.

With distressed leather finishes and portraits on the walls of the fishermen who supply their fresh catch, this intimate 60-seat restaurant’s decor is as eye-catching as the menu.

(4 Mill Street, +44 20 3794 8448; blackroe.com)

Looking for answers The law firm with a focus on BREXIT It’s our world wide reach and ability to adapt to the changing landscape, that make us the law firm of choice for innovative and forward looking business.

Our dedicated BREXIT unit gathers together our expertise and the team is ready to advise you on the challenges ahead and the impact for your business.

Helping you concentrate on what’s important now and in the future.

Sean Ryan Partner, Head of BREXIT Group Ireland +353 1 6644 207 seanryan@eversheds.ie

eversheds.ie Corporate Law Firm of the Year Business & Finance B2B Awards 2016 Public Sector Law Team of the Year Irish Law Awards 2016 European Pensions Law Firm of the Year European Pensions Award 2016

Business Hotel

CHICACO COCOON

Sheila Wayman goes PUBLIC for chic comfort.

WHAT & WHERE The famed Ambassador East hotel in Chicago’s Gold Coast has been completely transformed into the sleek PUBLIC

by Ian Schrager, a pioneer in hotel concepts. It’s all about cool style, quiet efficiency and great value, eschewing what he terms “design on steroids” in favour of classic good taste that embraces inclusivity rather than exclusivity. Within the 285 very spacious rooms and suites, decorated in soothing colours, the emphasis is on creating a home from home for those on the road. Even the public spaces have a cocooning effect; the roaring fire, coffee and cake in the Library can be hard to leave. Rooms from $149.

(1301 North State Parkway, +1 312 787 3700; publicchicago.com)

DOWN TO BUSINESS From intimate boardrooms and airy banquet rooms to a comfy screening theatre and lounge areas, every style of doing business is catered for. Bedrooms have large work areas and there is also communal space in the lobby’s Living Room, where tables are fitted with 21.5-inch iMacs and outlets for personal devices. You can ask for a loan of a laptop, mobile phone, iPad and iPod during your stay, while fax machines and printers are also available. The importance of good food in the flow of business is not overlooked. The legendary Pump Room restaurant, a popular hangout for celebrities and which infamously barred singer Phil Collins on the grounds of dress code, inspiring his No Jacket Required album, has undergone a “farm to table” revolution through the expert guidance of French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. At night its bar transforms into a “supper club” with tapas-style dining for convivial networking.

DOWNTIME The shopping and restaurants on the Magnificent Mile are within walking distance and, just before the DuSable Bridge, is the departure point for the Chicago Architecture Cruise. Claimed by some to be the best 90 minutes you can spend in the city – the birthplace of skyscrapers – the river trip gives an enthralling overview of its “higher, taller” history, with Jeanne Gang’s Aqua Tower amongst the latest additions. Adults $42. (465 North TUSCAN TREAT McClurg Court; A luxurious B&B, Villa D’ chicagoline.com)

COUNTER DINING Party guests always end up in the kitchen and at Roister “the restaurant is the kitchen – the kitchen is the restaurant”. This new venture from chef Grant Achatz (of Alinea fame) has been garnering plaudits for seriously good food served in a fun and boisterous setting.

(951 West Fulton Market; roisterrestaurant.com)

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Citta is a Tuscan-style villa hidden behind the façade of a 19th-century greystone in the heart of Lincoln Park. There’s a stocked kitchen and wine tap and a private grotto. Rooms from $129. (2230 North Halsted Street, +1 312 771 0696; villadcitta.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Chicago twice daily.

AU D I T | TA X | A DV I S O RY | O U T S O U RC I N G

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“If you or your clients are in Ireland to do business, we’re the people to talk to.”

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Head of International Trade

www.eisneramper.ie F I N A N C I A L S E R V I C E S – I N T E R N AT I O N A L T R A D E – G O V E R N M E N T © 2016 EISNERAMPER IRELAND. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Business

6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT Virginia’s

SMART CITY

to meet Sir James Goldsmith and he was a beautiful man to everyone around him. What struck me the most about him was his insistence that his driver be fed in the restaurant while he was having lunch.

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Money isn’t everything Free time is important and, the older I get, the more I value it. Within this industry there are no set hours as the business dictates how you work – it’s not nine-to-five. Then there’s my other and most important job with Rebecca, my 16-year-old, which is the hardest one of all and for which there is no training, formula or guarantee. I’m in it for the long haul – no retirement or pension options here.

4

Use your savvy The advice I’d give to recent graduates is to be persistent and use your talents to try to make it. It’s important to enjoy your chosen profession – if you don’t like it, move. And don’t burn the candles at both ends, so curb the social life.

1

Hospitality hotshot VIRGINIA FORTUNE is general manager at the 1878 Club and The Premium Club, the two distinctive, private members’ clubs at Dublin’s 3Arena (3arena.ie).

Learn to multi-task As a single working mother, I have certainly needed to become a multi-tasker. It’s incredibly difficult to balance family and work life these days, with the cost of childcare and the pressures of work. I think the option to share maternity leave between both parents should be available and most employers

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could easily provide low-cost crèche facilities onsite as a perk.

2

Be fair Getting to the “top” frequently brings out the worst in people, but this doesn’t have to be the way if you maintain enthusiasm, dedication, fairness, self-belief and the respect of your coworkers. I was fortunate enough

DESTINATION Madrid has an interesting, international feel with a great, engaged workforce and a real emphasis on quality of life. I love wandering around, enjoying cañas y tapas in La Latina, or going to the Prado (museodelprado.com).

SLEEP AT The InterContinental is a classic (ihg.com), but I like the character and style of some of the smaller, more niche places too, such as the Petit Palace (petitpalace.co.uk). I also really like the outdoor pool at the Meliá Castilla (melia.com).

5

Embrace challenges We’ve had some very hard times as, essentially, private club membership is a luxury purchase but there is demand again. I love to see the team progressing and becoming fantastic individuals – to have loyal and trustworthy people around you is such a bonus.

6

Have trust in delegation My environment is pretty international. If I travel, I always stay in touch with the office – a bad habit that I need to address ... for everyone.

EAT AT If I could get a booking, DiverXO (diverxo.com) by chef David Muñoz would definitely be somewhere I’d love to go. It’s an exciting and creative menu with some incredibly inventive cooking – and is currently Madrid’s only three-Michelin star restaurant.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Madrid 11 times per week.

Flying even higher Lambert Smith Hampton are now covering the whole island.

Ireland’s commercial property consultancy

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P

Flying with Aer Lingus

Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment.

Enjoy delicious food, the latest movies, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.

126 Welcome aboard 127 Your comfort and safety 140 Flight Connections 142 Connecting to Wi-Fi 144 Our Route Networks Inflight Entertainment 130 Movies to North America 131 Movies from North America 132 Our Classic Movie Selection 135 Television On Demand 138 Radio On Demand 139 Music On Demand

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Welcome aboard Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you.

After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight.

If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know.

Why not try speaking a few words of the native language while you are visiting Ireland!

Fáilte Welcome Dia dhuit Hello Slán go fóill Goodbye ...is ainm dom My name is...

Conas atá tú? How are you?

Tá mé go maith I’m good Sláinte! Cheers Go raibh maith agat Thank you Gabh mo leithscéal Excuse me Cara Friend

Aer Lingus are proud to be recognised as Ireland‘s only 4-star airline, awarded

by Skytrax, the world‘s leading airline and airport review specialists.

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In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your flight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going. Share your photos if you’d like, because we would love to hear from you on Facebook, Twitter and YouTube.

Guests with wheelchair requirements If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you. When contacting us you will need your booking reference number.

Take a photo and post it to our Facebook page.

Let us know how you’re enjoying your flight.

Chat to us on Twitter where you’ll also find the latest flight information.

View our videos of milestone events, festivals, sponsorships and campaigns.

Assistance Contact Details specialassistance@aerlingus.com Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222

Your comfort and safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times. We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be.

In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device.

You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important. Please note that certain devices may not be used.

To avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network, on our A330 aircraft, devices must be switched off flight mode – once our crew advise it is safe to do so.

Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices permitted in flight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, Mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other guests, audio devices should be used with a headset.

If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.

Are you ready for take-off and landing?

Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.



Is your mobile phone and/ or other portable electronic device in ’flight mode’?

   

Is your seatback fully upright?

Is your armrest down?

Is your tabletop stowed?

Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you?

To use your mobile phone and all other portable electronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to ‘flight mode’ or the ‘flight safe’ setting.

ON Airplane Mode

If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off.

Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight.

After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach. You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.

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Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable and reduce jet lag.

KEEP MOVING On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.

Your comfort and safety

EAR CARE Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew.

A safe flight for everyone It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:

DRINK UP Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.

EYE CARE



Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew.



Do not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another guest (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.



If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual.

Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment.

We also want to make it clear that Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a guest on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed.

Similarly, behaviour or language towards other guests or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.

Airbus 330-

200

For your Safety

Fógra Sábhá Pour votre ilteacht Sécur ité Für ihre Siche rheit Para su Segur idad

Airbus 319

Safety For your áilteacht Fógra Sábh Sécur ité Pour votre Siche rheit Für ihre Seguridad Para su a Sicurezza Per la vostr

Please do

not remov

e from Aircra

Per la vostra Sicurezza Säker het ombo rd Sikke rhet om bord Sikke rhed om bord Please do

ft

TIME ZONES ON

Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster.

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Airplane Mode

not remov

e from Aircra

ft

Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before take off, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.

ON Airplane Mode

ON Airplane

ON Airplane

Mode

Mode

In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board. These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.

Travel everywhere in Dublin with the Leap Visitor Card Available to buy from: · Dublin Bus Travel information Desk (T1 Arrivals) · Spar shop (T2 Arrivals) · Discover Ireland Tourist Information Desk (T2 Arrivals)

The Leap Visitor Card can be used on: Airlink 747/757 airport bus services, all Dublin Bus scheduled services, all Luas (tram) services and DART and Commuter Rail in the Short Hop Zone.

24 hours Unlimited Travel.

Includes Airport to Dublin return on Airlink 72 hours Unlimited Travel.

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Movies Flights to North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight to North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky!

Action X-Men: Apocalypse 134 mins

EN FR DE IT ES

IT

Comedy

Biography

R

113 mins A CIA operative’s memories are put into a death-row inmate.

Stars Kevin Costner, Ryan Reynolds, Gal Gadot EN

Comedy

Now You See Me 2

PG13

Star Trek Beyond

PG13

The ancient mutant En Sabah Nur awakens in 1983 and plans to wipe out modern civilisation and take over the world, leading the X-Men to try to stop him and defeat his team of renegade mutants.

Stars James McAvoy, Michael Fassbender, Jennifer Lawrence, Evan Peters and Rose Byrne.

Action

Criminal

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PG13

Papa Hemingway in Cuba

R

Love & Friendship

PG

129 mins Four Horsemen return for a second mind-bending adventure. Stars Jesse Eisenberg, Daniel Radcliffe, Michael Caine

120 mins A mysterious new enemy puts the Federation at risk.

Stars Anton Yelchin, Chris Pine, Idris Elba

110 mins Ernest Hemingway helps a young journalist find his voice. Stars Giovanni Ribisi, Joely Richardson

92 mins Lady Susan Vernon tries to play matchmaker.

Stars Kate Beckinsale, Chloë Sevigny, Xavier Samuel

EN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

EN FR ES

Documentary

Drama

Mike and Dave Need Wedding Dates

R

98 mins An online dating ad made by two brothers goes viral. Stars Zac Efron, Anna Kendrick EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Kids G

General

PG

Parental Guidance

PG13 Parental Guidance

Not suitable for children under 13.

R

The Family Fang

IT

R

Misery Loves Comedy

PG13

Last Days in the Desert

PG13

Bling

PG

105 mins A brother and sister try to find their missing parents. Stars Jason Bateman, Nicole Kidman, Kathryn Hahn

94 mins Do you have to be miserable to be funny?

Stars Amy Schumer, James L Brooks, Judd Apatow

98 mins An imagined chapter from Jesus‘ 40 days in the desert. Stars Ewan McGregor, Ciarán Hinds, Tye Sheridan

82 mins Sam attempts to win the heart of his childhood sweetheart.

Stars Taylor Kitsch, Jennette McCurdy, James Woods

EN ES

EN

EN

EN

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Finding Dory 97 mins Dory searches for her long-lost parents.

Stars Ellen DeGeneres, Albert Brooks, Ed O‘Neill EN FR DE IT ES

EN PG

FR DE IT ES

Restricted Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español

CCEN Closed Caption English

Movies Flights from North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight from North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky!

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Action

Independence Day: Resurgence 120 mins Two decades after the first Independence Day invasion, aliens attack Earth again with an advanced and unprecedented force. A new generation of defenders joins forces with the surviving protagonists from the first film to participate in a battle to save the world from annihilation. Stars Liam Hemsworth, Jeff Goldblum and Bill Pullman.

EN FR DE IT ES

Action

Comedy

Biography

Free State of Jones

R

Precious Cargo

R

The Huntsman: Winter‘s War

PG13

PG13

The Nice Guys

R

The Man Who Knew Infinity

PG13

East Side Sushi

PG

139 mins An uprising against the corrupt Confederate government. Stars Matthew McConaughey, Gugu Mbatha-Raw

90 mins A crime boss makes off with another thief‘s loot. Stars Mark-Paul Gosselaar, Bruce Willis, Claire Forlani

113 mins Two warriors conceal their love as they fight to survive. Stars Chris Hemsworth, Jessica Chastain, Charlize Theron

116 mins An investigation of an apparent suicide in 1970s LA. Stars Russell Crowe, Ryan Gosling, Angourie Rice

108 mins The life and academic career of Srinivasa Ramanujan. Stars Dev Patel, Jeremy Irons, Malcolm Sinclair

100 mins Juana‘s dreams are crushed because of her race/gender. Stars Diana Elizabeth Torres, Yutaka Takeuchi, Rodrigo Duarte Clark

EN

EN DE ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

EN FR

Drama

Kids G

General

PG

Parental Guidance

PG13 Parental Guidance

Not suitable for children under 13.

R

Me Before You

PG13

The Phenom

PG13

88 mins

Term Life

R

110 mins An unlikely bond is formed between a carer and her patient.

Stars Emilia Clarke, Sam Claflin, Janet McTeer

A Major League pitcher loses control over his pitching. Stars Ethan Hawke, Paul Giamatti, Johnny Simmons

93 mins A man is wanted around town by various hitmen.

Stars Hailee Steinfeld, Vince Vaughn, Jon Favreau

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN

EN

Fishtales

PG

89 mins Cleo and Puffer try to find their 8-legged friend, Ollie. Stars April Rose, Evan Tramel

EN

The Angry Birds Movie

EN PG

FR DE

97 mins Find out why the birds are always so angry. Stars Jason Sudeikis, Josh Gad, Danny McBride

IT ES

Restricted Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español

CCEN Closed Caption English

EN FR DE IT ES

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We also provide a selection of classic movies available on flights to and from North America.

Timeless favourites such as The Fugitive and Thunderball are available, as well as a selection of Irish short films and features.

Our Classic Movie Selection

Alien

R

117 mins Stars Sigourney Weaver, Tom Skerritt, John Hurt EN

Due Date

95 mins Stars Robert Downey Jr, Zach Galifianakis

R

Aliens

R

EN FR

EN FR DE

Fantastic Mr Fox

PG

EN FR DE

The Darjeeling Limited

R

PG

104 mins Stars Tom Hanks, Elizabeth Perkins, Robert Loggia

87 mins Stars George Clooney, Meryl Streep, Bill Murray

EN FR DE IT

Big

137 mins Stars Sigourney Weaver, Michael Biehn, Carrie Henn

The Fugitive

Flags of our Fathers

EN FR DE IT ES

R

135 mins Stars Ryan Phillippe, Barry Pepper

91 mins Stars Owen Wilson

124 mins Stars Harrison Ford, Tommy Lee Jones, Sela Ward

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

The Grand Budapest Hotel

PG13

144 mins Stars Daniel Craig, Judi Dench

EN FR DE IT ES

PG13

Casino Royale

R

100 mins Stars Ralph Fiennes, Saoirse Ronan EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Hocus Pocus

PG

Cool Runnings

PG

Corpse Bride

98 mins Stars John Candy, Leon, Doug E Doug EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

Invictus

PG13

Magnolia

96 mins Stars Bette Midler, Sarah Jessica Parker, Kathy Najimy

134 mins Stars Morgan Freeman, Matt Damon, Tony Kgoroge

EN FR ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

The Spy who Loved Me

Thunderball

The Rocker

PG13

102 mins Stars Rainn Wilson, Josh Gad, Christina Applegate EN FR DE IT ES

PG

77 mins Stars Johnny Depp, Helena Bonham Carter, Emily Watson

PG

188 mins Stars Tom Cruise, Philip Seymour Hoffman, Julianne Moore

R

Dark Shadows

PG13

113 mins Stars Johnny Depp, Michelle Pfeiffer

94 mins Stars Zachary Gordon

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR

Rocky

119 mins Stars Sylvester Stallone, Talia Shire, Burt Young

PG

PG

125 mins Stars Roger Moore, Barbara Bach, Curd Jürgens EN FR DE IT

EN FR ES

Trouble with the Curve

Sex and the City 2

PG

R

141 mins Stars Sarah Jessica Parker, Kim Cattrall

EN FR DE

130 mins Stars Sean Connery, Claudine Auger, Adolfo Celiil Shepard

Diary of a Wimpy Kid: Dog Days

EN FR DE

PG13

X-Men Origins: Wolverine

PG13

111 mins Stars Clint Eastwood

104 mins Stars Hugh Jackman

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Irish Shorts and Features

A Day Like Today

R

86 mins Stars Andie McCaffrey Byrne, Paul Butler Lennox EN

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City of Roses

9 mins Stars Aisling O’Neill, Aoibhin Garrihy EN

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PG

Dare to be Wild

100 mins Stars Emma Greenwell, Tom Hughes EN

PG

Late Arrivals

PG13

Signs of the Times

PG

10 mins Stars Lucie Azconaga, Tim Dillard

7 mins Directed by Stephen Rodgers

EN

EN

The Red Herring

PG

Waiting for Tom

7 mins Directed by Leevi Lemmetty

9 mins Stars Clelia Murphy, Billy Traynor

EN

EN

PG

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12 mins Directed by Katie Lincoln

EN

PG

MARCO PIERRE WHITE STEAKHOUSE & GRILL DUBLIN

DUBLIN’S FINEST STEAKHOUSE OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK FOR LUNCH AND DINNER

LATE OPENING FRIDAY & SATURDAY 51 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Ph: 0035316771155 Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner dawson@marcopierrewhite.ie

NOW OPEN IN DONNYBROOK 1 Belmont Ave, D 4 Ph: 0035315510555 courtyard@marcopierrewhite.ie

www.marcopierrewhite.ie

Bar & Restaurant ‘Home of the Irish Coffee’

Kennedy’s established in 1850 has long since maintained an honourable standing amongst the elite of Dublin’s watering holes.

Indeed it once provided more than a sumptuous pint for the residents of Westland Row and Merrion Square as the front part of the establishment used to be a grocery shop. A shop where young Oscar Wilde earned his first shilling stacking the shelves on Saturday afternoon.

With its location on the doorstep of Trinity College, Kennedy’s enjoys a clientele comprising of the very latest additions to Ireland’s academic body.

Serving Irish Classic in terms of food and a Live Trad Session on Sunday, call into Kennedy’s where you are guaranteed a friendly hospitable atmosphere as well as attentive service.

World’s longest ski slopes

€25 Trial Lesson Promo Code: Cara25ski

(Advance booking essential, subject to availability, one voucher per person, all equipment provided)

Just like real skiing you’ll be able to practice turn after turn without stopping allowing you to simulate real ski runs!

Call (01) Suitable 293 for0588 to Book!

4yrs and up!

Indoor Ski Centre Dublin - 26 Rowan Ave - Stillorgan Business Park - A94 N996

Adult Lesson €49 Child Lesson €39 6 Lesson Special €199 Parties from €200

www.skicentre.ie

Television On Demand On Demand TV allows you to select and view your favourite TV shows. Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV including Comedy, Drama, Documentary, Lifestyle, Business, Sports and Kids programmes.

Business

Studio 1.0

This month Bloomberg‘s Brilliant Ideas examines hugely respected Irish-born artist Michael Craig-Martin. Also from Bloomberg is Studio 1.0, where host Emily Chang sits down with Xiaomi Vice President Hugo Barra.

Meanwhile, EuroNews bring us Business Planet/Global Conversations and Learning World – all of which cast a cold eye over economics, technology and energy developments.

Comedy

Documentary

Access 360 World Heritage 2

Crossroads follows different forms of transport from around the world. This episode features Hong Kong‘s lively trams.

Also available on board are Through the Wormhole with Morgan Freeman which questions whether science will ever allow time to move backwards, and National Geographic‘s Access 360 World Heritage 2, which features St Petersburg‘s fine art and architecture. Tune into Planet Food and Beer Geeks, which explores different styles of craft beer from around the world.

Lifestyle

American Food Battle

Step into the world of food with American Food Battle. Follow European chefs as they discover America‘s cuisine. Tune into City Chic for an insight into the French fashion industry.

For fans of culture and art Culturefox TV offers a guide to Irish culture and events, whilst The Ronnie Wood Show sees the Rolling Stones guitarist interview some of rock‘s most engaging characters.

Sport

Drama As we witness a golden age in TV drama, Aer Lingus offers engaging choices with boxsets of True Detective, Treme and The Walking Dead on offer, as well as episodes from The Wire, Gotham and Martin Scorsese-produced series Vinyl.

Veep

Modern Family first hit our screens in 2010, and has become somewhat of a culture defining series. Now, with five consecutive Emmy Awards for Outstanding Comedy Series and a Golden Globe for Best Comedy TV Series, Modern Family continues with Season 6. Those with a more anarchic sense of humour might appreciate a new episode of multi award-winning comedy Veep. Also on board are episodes of New Girl, The Big Bang Theory, Silicon Valley and The Last Man on Earth.

Kids

Stars of Europe 2016

Sports fans shouldn‘t miss Stars of Europe 2016, which shines a light on the continents‘ greatest sportsmen. This episode profiles Portuguese superstar Christiano Ronaldo.

Also on board are HSBC: Golfing World 2016, Race of Champions 2015 and Epic TV, featuring adventure sports of all kinds including surfing, climbing, wingsuit, base jumping and mountain biking.

Shaun the Sheep

Kids will surely enjoy Learn to Draw, a stepby-step drawing show which demonstrates how to draw fantastic and creative cartoons.

Kids may also enjoy charming animated series Shaun the Sheep, or an imaginative episode of Voltakid or Flip Flap.

News & Events In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.

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Television On Demand Drama Boxsets

True Detective SEASON 2 The second season of True Detective began airing in June 2015 on the HBO network.

Season two comprises eight episodes and there are a lot of big names in this season’s cast, with a principal cast of Colin Farrell, Rachel McAdams, Vince Vaughn, Taylor Kitsch and Kelly Reilly.

Colin Farrell is Ray Velcoro, a compromised detective in the all-industrial City of Vinci, LA County. Vince Vaughn plays Frank Semyon, a criminal and

entrepreneur in danger of losing his life’s work, while his wife and closest ally (Kelly Reilly), struggles with his choices and her own.

Rachel McAdams is Ani Bezzerides, a Ventura County Sheriff’s detective often at odds with the system she serves, while Taylor Kitsch plays Paul Woodrugh, a war veteran and motorcycle cop.

Season two takes place in California and follows the interweaving stories of the

officers from three cooperating police departments.

A bizarre murder brings together three law-enforcement officers and a career criminal, each of whom must navigate a web of conspiracy and betrayal.

Ultimately season 2 of True Detective offers immense drama as we see a joining of three law enforcement groups, multiple criminal collusions, and billions of dollars.

True Detective is a gritty American anthology crime drama television series created by Nic Pizzolatto

Treme SEASON 4 Treme was created by David Simon, creator of The Wire and Generation Kill and Eric Overmyer, writer-producer of Homicide and Law & Order.

Pierce, Khandi Alexander, Rob Brown, Steve Zahn, Kim Dickens, Melissa Leo, Lucia Micarelli, Michiel Huisman, David Morse, India Ennenga and Jon Seda.

the ability of whether the police department can keep up with the rise in crime is questionable.

What keeps the city afloat through all of this is its culture.

Treme is set in post-Katrina New Orleans and documents the struggles of a diverse group of residents as they rebuild their lives and their city.

The story consists of a diverse group of residents struggling to rebuild New Orleans in the months following Hurricane Katrina.

Treme takes its title from the name of one of the city‘s oldest neighbourhoods, a historically important source of African-American music and culture. The large cast of Treme includes Wendell

Life in New Orleans is getting better, but it‘s not happening fast enough to keep residents from wondering whether things would be easier or better elsewhere. Crime is on the rise in New Orleans and

Mardi Gras Indian chief Albert Lambreaux (Clarke Peters) is sewing in preparation for Mardi Gras. The social aid and pleasure clubs are getting ready to hit the streets in their colourful, fast step finery. And those loveable rogues, Davis McAlary (Steve Zahn) and Antoine Batiste (Wendell Pierce) have cooked up a new set of schemes on and off the bandstand.

Treme depicts the struggles of New Orleans residents rebuilding their lives post-Katrina

The Walking Dead SEASON 6 The Walking Dead is an American horror–drama television series. The sixth season premiered in October 2015 comprising of 16 episodes.

Season six was developed for television by Frank Darabont.

It is based on the eponymous series of comic books by Robert Kirkman, Tony Moore, and Charlie Adlard.

In the first part of the season we see Rick and his group leading the Alexandria community through a series of crises.

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These include the threat of a large herd of walkers and an attack by dangerous scavengers known as the Wolves.

In this new reality, there are new dangers, new opportunities and new complexities to face.

The second half of season six involves Rick and his companions discovering more survivor communities. They make allies of the agrarian Hilltop colony and adversaries of the Saviours, which are led by the ruthless Negan.

To claim their place in this newfound landscape, the group must become the threat themselves. This means becoming as terrifying as any of the adversaries they've encountered.

With no hope of safety in Alexandria, Rick and his band of survivors soon discover a larger world beyond what they understood it to be.

Season six is notable for introducing some eminent comic characters such as Heath, Denise Cloyd, Scott, Dwight, Paul ‘Jesus‘ Rovia, Gregory, and Negan.

OUR TOP TV CHOICE The Walking Dead is a TV series which follows a group trying to survive a zombie apocalypse

CRAFTED THE CORK WAY

Octob e Beerfe r st Octo ber 27th to 29th

EXPERIENCE our award winning

BREWERY

Built on the site of an old Franciscan Monastery founded in the 13th century, our award winning brewery and Brew Pub provide a taste of Irish craft brewing against the back drop of intriguing history.

BREWERY TOURS

AND TASTINGS TOURS MONDAY – FRIDAY 6.30PM PRICE: €10 PER PERSON FOR GROUP BOOKINGS, PLEASE ARRANGE IN ADVANCE

HOSTING WEEKLY EVENTS INCLUDING

TRADITIONAL STORYTELLING, TRADITIONAL MUSIC, JAZZ & BLUES

FRANCISCAN WELL BREWERY 14b NORTH MALL, CORK CITY FOR FULL DETAILS CONTACT: 021 439 3434 FRANCISCANWELLBREWERY@GMAIL.COM www.franciscanwellbrewery.com

Radio On Demand

Our boarding music contains a number of contemporary Irish artists including Clannad, HomeTown, Van Morrison, Dervish, Paddy Casey, , Kodaline, Christy Moore, The Script and many more.

On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows.

EASY LISTENING

INDIE

IRISH

KIDS

Fitzpatrick Hotels

TXFM‘s Indie Hits

Ceol na nGael

Irish Pulse Broadcast

An hour long compilation of songs that will suit any music taste. Brought to you by The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA.

TXFM brings us the best indie hits of the moment, featuring artists such as Coldplay, Grimes and Blur.

A traditional music programme presented

by Seán Ó hÉanaigh.

Ceol traidisiúnta agus ceol tíre den scoth.

This is a compilation of some of Ireland‘s best contemporary artists.

Listen out for Bressie, Kodaline and many more!

Late Date

Pop Charts

Timeless tracks, hidden gems and the best new Irish music. Join Cathal Murray, RTÉ Radio 1 for a selection of songs created specially for Aer Lingus.

Listen to a compilation of your favourite pop songs that have topped the charts in recent years.

The Eoghan McDermott Show Eoghan McDermott from 2FM Drivetime presents a special Aer Lingus show.

Expect laughs and a lively soundtrack!

The Greatest Hits of all Time – RTÉ Gold RTÉ Gold is an hour long show presented by Paul Moriarty and plays the greatest hits of all time from the 60’s–90’s.

Lyric FM: Classical Kids Join Ian McGlynn for a fun introduction to classical music including Prokofiev's Peter and the Wolf, music by a Brazilian Mozart.

POP

POP

ROCK

Top 20 Throwback Anthems

Radio Nova: Marty Miller

Barry Dunne counts down 98FM’s Top 20 Throwback Anthems as we hit rewind on the biggest tracks from the 90’s and 00‘s.

60 mins of the greatest music ever recorded alongside chats with Roger Daltrey of The Who and Eric Bell of Thin Lizzy.

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TA L K R A D I O

The Louise McSharry Show Louise McSharry brings you a selection of brand new songs from emerging artists both from Ireland and around the world.

SPOTLIGHT

Documentary on One

Best of Moncrieff

In 1916, Thomas Manning left Ireland to work in the copper mines of Butte, Montana. However, just four years later, Thomas was shot and murdered.

Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent issues.

Tune in every weekday 1.30–4.30pm on Newstalk 106–108 FM.

Spotlight: Gavin James Listen as Gavin James introduces tracks off his spectacular debut album Bitter Pill.

Music On Demand Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums.

ALL TIME FAVOURITES

A LT E R N AT I V E

CL ASSIC AL

S P O T L I G H T: KO DA L I N E Kodaline have released their highly anticipated second album Coming up for Air. The Irish group have experimented more with their sound on this album and have created hits such as Honest and The One.

George Michael

Bruce Springsteen The Wild, the Innocent & the E Street Shuffle Desmond Dekker & The Aces The Best of Desmond Dekker George Michael Older COUNTRY

Maren Morris

Brooks & Dunn #1s... and then Some Cam Untamed Jim Reeves Platinum & Gold Collection Maren Morris Hero

M E TA L

Iron Maiden

Amon Amarth Jomsviking Iron Maiden The Final Frontier Judas Priest Redeemer of Souls Yashin The Renegades

Aqualung

Aqualung 10 Futures Chairlift Moth Elle King Love Stuff Misty Miller The Whole Family is Worried Natalie Press Side by Side

ELEC TRO

Netsky

Faithless Sunday 8 PM Fatboy Slim Palookaville Jean-Michel Jarre & Rone Electronica 2: The Heart of Noise Netsky 3

OPER A

Paul Potts

Leonard Bernstein– ACT01 West Side Story Paul Potts One Chance Simone Kermes & La Magnifica Comunità Love Various Opera Hall of Fame

Lubomyr Melnyk

Alessio Bidoli & Bruno Canino Anima Italiana Alliage Quintett & Sabine Meyer Fantasia John Williams John Williams – The Guitarist Lubomyr Melnyk Illirion IRISH

Damien Dempsey

Damien Dempsey It‘s All Good – The Best of Damien Dempsey Gavin James Bitter Pill The Gloaming 2 The High Kings Grace & Glory P OP

Tom Odell

Fifth Harmony 7/27 (Deluxe) Kygo Cloud Nine Meghan Trainor Thank You (Deluxe) Tom Odell Wrong Crowd (Deluxe)

Aer Lingus are proud supporters of Kodaline, flying the band across our European and North American network as they perform to sell-out audiences.

Exclusively to Aer Lingus guests, you can hear the guys give a track- by-track introduction to their latest album. Get to know the Dublin quartet and the stories behind their creative process and success!

JA Z Z

Peter White

Miles Davis & Robert Glasper Everything‘s Beautiful Peter White Sony Jazz Trios: Peter White Various Miles Ahead, Motion Picture Soundtrack RNB

Laura Mvula

Anthony Hamilton What I‘m Feelin‘ Beyoncé Lemonade Cadenza No Drama Laura Mvula The Dreaming Room Ro James Eldorado

KIDS

Big Time Rush

Big Time Rush BTR Cedarmont Kids Lullabies John Lithgow Singin‘ In the Bathtub Various Classic FM Music for Babies

ROCK

Kongos

Cage the Elephant Tell Me I‘m Pretty Fatherson Open Book Kelvin Jones Stop the Moment Kongos Egomaniac Wild Belle Dreamland

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Flight Connections at Dublin Airport WELCOME TO DUBLIN AIRPORT

DUBLIN

Where are you flying to?

Are your bags checked through to your final destination?

YES Follow signs for Flight Connections

NO Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.

USA

ALL OTHER DESTINATIONS

GATES 401– 426 15 minutes walk to gate

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Follow signs for US Preclearance

Have all your required forms filled out.

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have. Here you can: – Collect your onwards boarding pass – Check your next boarding gate and flight status

Gate Information Screens

Dublin Airport provides FREE Wi-Fi throughout the Terminal

Passport Control and Security Screening

Hand Baggage search

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.

Follow signs for Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.

Our Gold Circle Members and Business Class guests are welcome to visit the Gold Circle Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.

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DEPARTURE GATE

DUBLIN

Chartered Town Planning & Development Consultants

THE PLANNING & DEVELOPMENT CONSULTANCY FOR IRELAND DEVELOPMENT PLANNING | MASTERPLANNING | ENVIRONMENTAL ASSESSMENT Planning Advocacy ▪ Development Feasibility ▪ Masterplanning ▪ Planning Applications ▪ Planning Appeals & Judical Review ▪ Zoning Submissions ▪ Expert Planning Witness ▪ Urban Regeneration ▪ Environmental Impact Assessment ▪ Spatial Analysis ▪

www.hraplanning.ie

info@hraplanning.ie

00353(0)61 435000

Chartered Town Planning & Development Consultants DUBLIN | LIMERICK

Flight Connections for North American destinations If you have any queries about your connecting flight at any of our North American destinations please ask us.

We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.

Staying connected on board* Mobile Network on board

With our on board mobile network, AeroMobile, you can use your phone for text, email and internet browsing, just like you would on the ground**. Stay connected even as you cross the Atlantic.

Flight Connections T2 Heathrow Airport On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections.

Which terminal are you flying from?

For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.

On our A330 aircraft you can stay in touch with everything that matters, even when you’re in the air.

Here’s how to connect your Wi-Fi enabled devices.

1 Switch on

Once the safety belt sign has been switched off, turn on your device and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi

Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so, keeping it on silent or vibrate mode.

Ensure you switch off ‘flight safe‘ mode.

2 Connect

Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse aerlingus.com for free along with some of our partners’ sites.

2 Aeromobile

Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.

3 Purchase Internet Access

Click the ‘Buy Internet Access’ button and choose a tariff that offers either one hour of browsing or a full flight pass.

3 Welcome SMS

4 Payment

Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator.

International roaming rates apply.

Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming, iPass, PayPal or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.

5 Username and Password

4 Connected

Enter a username and password. You need to remember these if you wish to change device.

You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email and browsing the internet. ** Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and roaming charges.

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Departure lounge Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.

Wi-Fi on board in 6 steps

1 Switch on

International roaming rates apply from your mobile phone operator

Security screening You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security.

6 Connected

You can now browse, email and surf the internet… enjoy!

W R NE WE ES LO R I C P

One hour pass €7.95 | $9.95 Full flight pass €14.95 | $18.95 *A330 aircraft only.

FULHAM - LONDON

NOWOPEN

uae | ireland | singapore | usa | uk

an irish welcome, wherever you go. experience the best of ireland at home & abroad

contact@mcgettigans.com | www.mcgettigans.com

We have been in business since 2004 and we currently let and manage 4,000 properties throughout the city. We provide a wide range of services for landlords in the commercial and residential sector. Our letting team offers a full service from preparing the property to the market, to completing new tenancy agreement and ongoing property management services, for both residential and commercial property owners

MD Prope y offer advice on strategy, market review and work with you to achieve targeted results.

• Letting • Management • Block Management • Appraisal • Strategy and advise

Contact us when you land 38 Upper Baggot Street, Dublin 4, D04 A2P2 Tel: 01-6607803 Email: letting@mdpm.ie www.mdpm.ie PSRA Licence No: 001806

Our European and North American Route Network Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Edmonton Saskatoon

Calgary

Regina Winnipeg

Vancouver Victoria Seattle

Duluth

Montreal

Ottawa

Portland OR

Traverse

Minneapolis Boise

Milwaukee Madison

Sioux Falls

Salt Lake City

Omaha Denver

Reno

Oakland

San Francisco San Jose San Luis Obispo

Des Moines

St Louis

Louisville Nashville

Tulsa

Oklahoma City

Los Angeles

Santa Barbara Burbank Santa Ana Long Beach San Diego

Fort Wayne Chicago

Springfield

Las Vegas

Memphis Little Rock

Phoenix

Buffalo

Detroit Cleveland

Indianapolis Wichita

Toronto

Grand Rapids

Cedar Rapids

Sacramento

St. John’s

Quebec Fargo

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Akron Canton

Rochester

Pittsburgh

Albany

Hartford

Newark

Columbus Harrisburg

Dayton

Halifax

Burlington Syracuse

Cincinnati

Washington (Dulles)

Providence

Portland ME

Boston Hyannis Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard

New York (JFK) Philadelphia Baltimore

Washington (National)

Lexington

Greensboro

Knoxville

Charlotte

Greenville Atlanta

Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham

Columbia Charleston

Savannah Austin

Houston

San Antonio

New Orleans

Jacksonville

Orlando Tampa

Aer Lingus European and North American Network

Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami

Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air)

Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe)

Aer Lingus partner destinations (JetBlue, United Airlines, Air Canada) With US Customs and Border Protection Pre-clearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland.

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San Juan Aguadilla

We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America.

You can travel from Dublin direct to nine US destinations, or to Canada, and benefit from up to 100 onward connections with our partner airlines.

Ponce

Connect with ease from any of our European destinations to our Northern American network via Dublin or Shannon.

Inverness Aberdeen Glasgow

Donegal

Newcastle

Belfast

Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester East Midlands

Isle of Man

Knock

Liverpool

Dublin

Shannon Kerry

Edinburgh

Birmingham

Cork

Amsterdam

Berlin

Warsaw

London (Heathrow) Bristol

Cardiff

London (Gatwick)

Dusseldorf

Southampton

Exeter

Newquay

Hamburg

Brussels Prague

Frankfurt Jersey

Paris

Stuttgart Vienna

Munich

Rennes

Budapest

Zurich

Nantes Geneva

(Malpensa)

Bordeaux

Toulouse

Santiago de Compostela

Bilbao

Venice

Milan

Lyon

Milan

(Linate)

Nice

Montpellier Perpignan

Verona Bologna Pula Pisa

Marseille

Bourgas

Dubrovnik Rome

Barcelona

Naples

Madrid

Alicante Murcia

Athens Catania

Malaga Faro

Tenerife Gran Canaria

Lanzarote Fuerteventura

Corfu

Palma

Lisbon

Try our online route map You can view our destinations and book your ight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your ipad, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!

Izmir

Our Middle East, Australasia and South African Route Network You can now book ights from Dublin to destinations in the Middle East, Australia and South Africa via London Heathrow and Abu Dhabi.

Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

w

Dublin

London Heathrow

Bahrain

Dubai

Abu Dhabi

Muscat

Kuala Lumpur Singapore

Johannesburg

Cape Town

Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)

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Perth Sydney

Melbourne

A watercolour painting by Róisín O’Shea © 2012

J

ohnnie Fox’s Pub situated in the heart of the Dublin Mountains has it all, a living museum of Irish History andTradition where unique pieces from old farm implements to Historical antiquities adorn every wall, nook & cranny. Serving an award winning a la carte menu from 12.30 until late, with live musicians playing traditional Irish music 7 nights a week, our special kind of Irish welcome is not to be missed.

S

ituated only 40 minutes from Dublin City Centre and 10 minutes from Dundrum or Enniskerry Villages why not take our private shuttle bus which will collect you from an array of Dublin City or County Hotels operated by ExpressBus.ie (01 8221122) for €5 each way.

Hooley Nights

For a real treat one should experience the world famous show known as the Johnnie Fox’s HOOLEY night which includes the esteemed Johnnie Fox’s troop of Irish dancers, live traditional Irish music, a full 4 course evening meal and plenty of great craic….. at only €52.50 per person.

• • • •

AWARD WINNING KITCHEN TRADITIONAL IRISH ENTERTAINMENT CORPORATE EVENTS PRIVATE PARTIES

Johnnie Fox’s Pub l Glencullen l Co. Dublin

l Ireland l Tel: (01) 295 5647 Email: info@jfp.ie

www.jfp.ie

www.facebook.com/Johnniefoxspub

SEAFOOD IS OUR SPECIALITY AWARDWINNING A LA CARTE MENU

WELCOME TO YOUR WORLD-CLASS 4-STAR AIRLINE. In recognition of our consistent quality and excellent guest experience, Skytrax World Airline Awards has rated Aer Lingus 4-stars, making us the first and only Irish airline to receive such a prestigious rating.

Smart flies 4-star. Smart flies Aer Lingus.

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U.S. IMMIGRATION LAWYERS SINCE 1997

Excellent track record representing: • • • • •

Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers

• • • •

Family-based petitions Interns and trainees Artists Outstanding individuals in athletics, business, entertainment and science

For client testimonials visit: www.obrienandassociates.com @usvisaexpert

New York Office: T: 212-965-1148

Deirdre O’Brien, Esq.

Kilkenny Office: T: 056-7767994

MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION

> Your gateway into Europe.

Frequent, reliable, without border restrictions.

CALL US TODAY! Dublin: +353 1631 0900 Cork: +353 21 45 04 788 Belfast: +44 28 9078 1844

www.samskip.com

Watch 1 out!

To coincide with the clocks going back, bag a timely bargain in our on-board Boutique.

2

SKAGEN Melbye Scandinavian style is bang on the zeitgeist and this Danish brand is hitting all those clean, industrial elements beautifully in this brushed steel and mesh watch with eye-catching orange detail.

4

SEKONDA Sports Chrono This watch

combines classic design with modern elements, its chronograph dials make it efficient functional and effi cient and the simple black leather strap gives a further masculine edge to the bold yellow face.

6

SEKONDA Oxblood

We just love the colour of this beauty – the deep red is the perfect complement to pale skin tones and the rose gold finish adds warmth for a winter watch winner.

BOUTIQUE | SHOPPING

FOSSIL Riley Rose

A statement piece if ever there were one, this Fossil watch combines form, function and fashion. The rose gold finish fi nish and polished face are sure to stand out and will take you from desk to drinks with ease.

3

SEKONDA Ladies Mesh This sleek

timepiece is the perfect accessory – its neat, mimimalist dial and mesh strap work with office wear, while the touch of gold and diamante in the dial means it works for a night out too.

5

SEKONDA Digital Analogue Ideal for

the outdoorsy type, this chronograph watch comes in a hardy casing and its 1/100-second countdown, alarm and dual time make it perfect for sports activities, plus it’s water resistant and has a two-year guarantee.

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TRIP OF A LIFETIME | ANTARCTIC

RETURN TO THE EMPERORS

Doug Allan rekindles old friendships among penguins and drops in to a famous Kerryman’s temporary abode.

t’s mid summer, I’m in a T-shirt, feeling the first prickles of sunburn on the back of my neck. The sky is vibrantly blue from horizon to horizon, cloudless. The sea is almost mirror calm, only little waves lapping against the hull of the boat that brought me and a dozen other people ashore. I’ve walked in the opposite direction from my companions, heading for other little figures that were already here. It’s been 30 years since I first met them and now I’m returning to a colony of Emperor penguins in Antarctica.

I was working for the British Antarctic Survey in 1983 when I spent 15 months as Base Commander on the challengingly remote Halley Station – dark for three months of the year, with temperatures as low as minus 50˚C. But for me, there was one big attraction – the Emperor penguin colony 15 kilometres away on the coast. The chance to film them was a rare privilege, because Emperors are the only penguins who breed through the winter rather than over summer. The film I shot back then set me off on my wildlifefilming career.

Now I’m looking at the 20,000 pairs of Emperors at Cape Washington. It’s December, some chicks have already fledged, they stand close to the edge of the ice, but seemingly reluctant to take their first swim. A leopard seal suddenly sticks his reptilian head clear of the water.

I

His unblinking eyes fix on me and the fledgers, but he doesn’t have the element of surprise to launch himself up on the ice for an attack. He slips back seamlessly underwater.

The adults are in magnificent condition, an oily sheen to their feathers, brilliant golden yellow necks. I don’t want to disturb them but I also want a chick’s-eye perspective on them; I’d like to photograph them from a low perspective, with that magnificent blue sky as a backdrop.

The secret? I simply lie flat down on the ice. I’m transformed, from a figure they’re slightly wary of, to a shape they’re curious about.

Waddling isn’t a properly regal word to describe the way they dip their heads from side to side as they approach. In just a few minutes, they’re so close they tower above me.

I’m back home with the penguins, a fully-fledged member of the colony.

Two days later, I’m pushing open the door to another, very different home. Stepping over the threshold

“I’m back home with the penguins, a fully fledged member of the colony” 152 |

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Top, a chick’seye view of the Emperor penguins, and above, Doug Allan amongst his waddling friends.

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of the winter quarters built by Captain Robert Scott’s men on the Terra Nova Expedition, from where he launched his fateful bid for the South Pole in 1911. The hut was abandoned when the expedition returned to England but the dry cold of Antarctica preserved the building and much of its contents.

I look down at shelves of scientific bottles, old boots on the floor still with vestiges of polish.

There’s even an Emperor penguin, a mummified carcass on the table near the kitchen. Leather dog harnesses are draped over the wooden frame at the end of one bunk, and in my imagination this has to be where petty officer, first class, Tom Crean slept. A veteran of three Antarctic expeditions with both Scott and Shackleton between 1901 and 1916, this Irishman’s physical strength and mental steadfastness shine through every account written about this “heroic era”.

When he retired from the Royal Navy in 1920, he opened a pub in his home village of Annascaul on the Dingle peninsula, Co Kerry.

Tom Crean’s South Pole Inn is still doing great business, a modest nod to Antarctica by one of its most accomplished explorers.

Doug will be presenting his illustrated talk In the Company of Giants in 16 Irish theatres through October and November – dates and venues at dougallan.com.

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