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THE BIG RIDE The Waterford Greenway

FIERCE TALENT Dublin noiseniks Fontaines D.C.

HIGH CAMP Portuguese coastline in an RV


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CONTENTS AUGUST 2019

CHECK IN 4 WELCOME Aer Lingus news and announcements 8 ARRIVALS It’s holiday season at Dublin’s T2 13 CHECK IN Diary-worthy events, hotels, food and drinks news – and an award-winning short story 26 DETOURIST Eoin Higgins takes a detour from Edinburgh City to loaf around Leith 30 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican’s literary picks 32 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Comic and podcaster Jarlath Regan

FEATURES 40 RHYME & REASON Tony Clayton-Lea interviews Dublin firebrands Fontaines D.C. 46 PRINTERS INC. Gemma Tipton meets the bright sparks behind Ireland’s leading print studios 54 LIFE CYCLE Nicola Brady saddles up for Waterford’s Greenway 66 SHORE THING Marcus Bradshaw eschews New York for the lesser-spotted New Jersey 82 BABY ON BOARD Nathalie Marquez Courtney’s Lisbon road trip with a difference – one RV and one newborn 92 AND ALL THAT JAZZ Rose Callahan and Lucy White timetravel to NYC’s Jazz Age Lawn Party

REGULARS

BUSINESS

77 10 SOJOURNS FOR SOLOISTS 109 BUSINESS & LIFE Travelling alone? Leonie Corcoran Ross McDonagh gets his tech on spotlights scintillating cities in Silicon Beach 101 6 IRISH SEASIDE ESCAPES 116 A DAY IN THE LIFE Shayna Sappington dives right in Fashion designer Katie Ann McGuigan 123 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT 118 WILDE SIDE On-board info, entertainment and retail Eoin Higgins finds Staycity the ideal 152 A FINE VINTAGE bolthole for a London layover Aer Lingus invites more women to join 120 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT its Future Pilot programme, building on MD of ConsenSys Lory Kehoe reveals a forward-thinking heritage his work/life lessons


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WELCOME ABOARD Sit back, relax and enjoy your holidays with Aer Lingus this summer.

W

elcome on board and thank you for choosing to fly with us today. August marks the height of the summer season and Aer Lingus is operating a record schedule and number of guests, as holidaymakers jet off on much deserved breaks. To help make your summer travels run as smoothly as possible, here are some tips for you and your family:

FAMILY FIRST Aer Lingus’ “Family First” initiative is designed to ease the check-in and boarding process for those travelling with young families. Children aged between two and 11 years get half-price checked bags and half-price seat selection within Europe. We also allow you to bring your buggy/stroller/travel seat free of charge. CHECK IN THE NIGHT BEFORE You can now check your luggage in the evening before your flight. Only one immediate family member from the travelling party needs to check in for a family group, once all tickets, passports and bags are provided together. EXPRESS BAG DROP If you are not flying with oversize baggage (car seat or pushchair), the Aer Lingus Express Bag Drop Service is the fastest and easiest way to get airside. Once you have your boarding card printed or downloaded to your mobile, simply selftag and check in your bags. Those travelling with oversize baggage will need to get special boarding passes from the check-in gate.

BOARDING, BE FIRST IN THE QUEUE Aer Lingus offers a pre-boarding facility to families travelling with young children, as well as to guests who may need special assistance. Buggies can be dropped off at the gate prior to departure and are delivered to the gate on arrival. To ensure that your family is seated together we strongly recommend you reserve seats in advance when making your booking. ENTERTAINMENT If travelling long-haul, enjoy the very latest inflight entertainment with a dedicated kids section, packed full of movies, games and popular TV shows. If travelling on our European flights, having a tablet to hand can be a handy distraction for children – download a favourite film or TV programme before travelling. TASTY TREAT A tasty treat is always a guaranteed hit for kids and Aer Lingus offers a Kids Snack Box as part of its Bia menu, which along with lots of great nibbles and a juice box, includes an activity sheet and colouring pencils to keep younger guests entertained throughout their flight. We hope you have a pleasant flight – and enjoy your holidays!

Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus and @CARAMagazine.


EDITORIAL

ADMINISTRATION FINANCIAL CONTROLLER Brett Walker ACCOUNTS MANAGER Lisa Dickenson CREDIT CONTROLLER Angela Bennett CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Clodagh Edwards GROUP EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Lizzie Gore-Grimes GROUP CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Melanie Morris GROUP EDITOR AT LARGE Laura George EDITORIAL CONSULTANT Ann Reihill

BOARD OF DIRECTORS CHAIRMAN Laura George DIRECTORS Eoin Magee, Patrick Dillon Malone, Clodagh Edwards, Melanie Morris, Robert Power

PRINTING PCP, England ORIGINATION Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Cedar Communications Limited and Image Media.

CEDAR COMMUNICATIONS LTD CEO Clare Broadbent BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR Christina da Silva COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR Justine Daly CREATIVE DIRECTOR Stuart Purcell FINANCE DIRECTOR Jane Moffett STRATEGY & BUSINESS DIRECTOR Ann Hartland +44 20 7550 8000 www.cedarcom.co.uk 85 Strand, London WC2R 0DW, UK

IMAGE Media Ltd PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 AND 2014 DIGITAL PRODUCT OF THE YEAR 2016 Image Media, Unit 3, Block 3, Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dún Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; image.ie Company registration number 56663

Nicola Brady is a travel writer based in Dublin, who writes for the Irish Independent, Condé Nast Traveler, Evening Standard and more. Her work has taken her to the depths of the Ugandan rainforest in search of gorillas and to the bottom of the ocean in Sri Lanka, but Ireland always lures her back home. A frequent cyclist, Nicola has seen most of the country on two wheels, and in this issue she takes to the Waterford Greenway to indulge her two favourite hobbies – cycling and eating. See page 54.

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ADVERTISING MANAGER Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie ADVERTISING COPY CONTACT Derek Skehan, +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie

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ADVERTISING

Ruth Connolly is a Dublin-based commercial and fine art photographer. She has an MA in photography from Central Saint Martins, London and a BA in fine art printmaking from Limerick School of Art and Design. Ruth focuses primarily on portraiture and editorial work, as well as branding and advertising, and her book, If you lived here, you’d be home by now (The Velvet Cell) was published in 2017. Her first commission for Cara takes her back to her roots, looking inside Irish print studios – see page 46.

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ART DIRECTOR Niamh Richardson CREATIVE DIRECTOR Bill O’Sullivan

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ART

CONTRIBUTORS

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EDITOR Lucy White DEPUTY EDITOR Eoin Higgins EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Shayna Sappington SUB-EDITOR Sheila Wayman CONTRIBUTORS Marcus Bradshaw, Aisling Brennan, Krista Connor, Leonie Corcoran, Bridget Hourican, Ross McDonagh, Nathalie Marquez Courtney, Melanie Mullan, Anne O’Hara, Gemma Tipton, Elly Walton

Brooklyn-based photographer Rose Callahan focuses her lens on those rare, elegant and eccentric personalities for whom dressing is an artform; many of whom were at this year’s Jazz Age Lawn Party in New York City – turn to page 92. Her work has also appeared in Esquire, The Sunday Times, Wall Street Journal and she’s the exclusive photographer for the Metropolitan Opera’s style blog Last Night at the Met. Also, two volumes of Rose’s style portraits are coffee table books: I am Dandy and We are Dandy.

© 2019 IMAGE Media Ltd and Cedar Communications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or IMAGE Media Ltd. Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or IMAGE Media Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Media Ltd.

ON THE COVER

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland. IMAGE Media Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie.

THE BIG RIDE The Waterford Greenway

FIERCE TALENT Dublin noiseniks Fontaines D.C.

HIGH CAMP Portuguese coastline in an RV

Fontaines D.C. were photographed by Eoin Higgins at Iconic Offices’ The Masonry, 151 Thomas Street, Dublin 8, with assistance from Shayna Sappington and styling by Ciana March.

WELCOME TO OUR NEW ISSUE! WE ARE ALL YOURS. FEEL FREE TO TAKE THIS MAGAZINE AWAY FOR YOUR ONWARD JOURNEY. WE WOULD ALSO LOVE YOUR FEEDBACK AND TRAVEL PHOTOS VIA TWITTER @CARAMAGAZINE.


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ARRIVALS

We met these eager travellers in T2, excited to see Ireland in the summer sunshine.

WHO? Lucia Siobhan and Delmence Niland FLYING IN FROM … South Africa via Barcelona LUCIA SAYS … “Today is my 18th birthday, so I am going to celebrate in Galway with my cousins and try my first pint of Guinness.”

WHO? Andrea Urkizu FLYING IN FROM … Bilbao ANDREA SAYS … “My sister lived in Dublin for two years and I fell in love with the city when I came to visit. Now, I try to come here on holiday whenever I can.”

WHO? Helena and Tony Purtscher FLYING IN FROM … Paris HELENA SAYS … “We are teachers from Santa Cruz, California and wanted to travel around Europe on our summer holidays. We can’t wait to explore Ireland for six days.”

WHO? Ahmet Kurt and Servet Ozen FLYING IN FROM … Berlin SERVET SAYS … “We work for the German embassy and are here for two weeks on business.”

WHO? Ross Flatau FLYING IN FROM … Lisbon ROSS SAYS … “I am returning from work in Lisbon. I’m originally from South Africa but have been living in Dublin for two years.”

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MELANIE MULLAN & WORDS BY SHAYNA SAPPINGTON

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Renowned for Bestowing the Gift of Eloquence Each visit to the gardens at Blarney Castle is always a unique experience. The grounds change remarkably with the seasons and new surprises await you around every corner. The 70 acres of gardens are a must see destination, and the estate boasts one of Ireland’s finest collections of trees and plants from all corners of the world. As Ireland’s first Wildlife Estate, it stands to reason that this haven so close to the city is a wonderful location to be close to nature. A stealthy visitor may spot an elusive kingfisher along the riverside walks or a red squirrel in the arboretum. It’s no surprise that Blarney’s gardens are the most visited in Ireland. There is something for everyone, from the amateur gardener to the seasoned plantsman or the family out to explore. Follow the map to find the historic and magical Rock Close with it’s Wishing Steps and Witch’s Kitchen; or the deadly Poison Garden, the Jurassic Fern Garden or the hidden Himalayan Valley.

Visiting gardens just got so much more exciting!

August 9am – 7pm (last admission 6pm) www.blarneycastle.ie | info@blarneycastle.ie (Only 5 miles from Cork)


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© LAMULA ANDERSON, FOTO: MAGIC OWEN

EAT | READ | GO

ROOTS MANOEUVRE From August 24, in Berlin, expect assertive revelation at Connecting Afro Futures: Fashion x Hair x Design, an explorative exhibition focused on decolonising African culture. Visual arts, workshops and panel discussions return to the essence of “the African body” – before hair and fashion had conformed to Western influences. Among other artists, designers Lamula Anderson, work above, and José Hendo integrate traditional colour combinations and Ugandan barkcloth respectively, to bring African culture back to its roots. Join the Afro-resurgence at Kunstgewerbemuseum, until December 1. smb.museum


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ECLECTIC PICNIC Following ten sold-out seasons, Muldoon’s Picnic is back with some of the biggest names in Irish literature. Expect music, poetry, readings and more – an eclectic arts extravaganza. Kicking off in Sligo’s Hawk’s Well Theatre on August 2, Pulitzer prize-winner Paul Muldoon will be joined by guests Nuala Ní Dhomhnaill, Wendy Erskine and house band Rogue Oliphant. The tour will continue to Dublin, Cork, Ennis, Carrick-on-Shannon and Belfast, including speakers/writers/performers Michael Longley, Anne Enright, Glen Hansard, left, Sinéad Gleeson and Leanne O’Sullivan. August 2-11. poetryireland.ie

STAR SCREENINGS Stretch out under the stars and watch one of your favourite films at one of Philadelphia’s many outdoor cinema screenings this August. Expect classics as well as new releases for cinephiles and family nights out, with movies scheduled to show including Christopher Robin (Inn Yard Park), Dirty Dancing (Cira Green), The Goonies (Main Street), Green Book (Grays Ferry Crescent), Paddington (Mt. Airy), Grease (Mann Center) and Solo: A Star Wars Story (Clark Park). And grab free popcorn if you catch a flick at the King of Prussia Town Center. For more details, see visitphilly.com.

CLIFFSIDE VIEWS In Dubrovnik’s secluded Miramare Bay, you’ll find the glorious Hotel Bellevue atop a 30-metrehigh cliff. Creamy whites, caramel hues and glass walls with ocean views add to its tranquil atmosphere. Guests can unwind in the oval pool or whirlpool, indulge in a hot and cold stone treatment at the spa or take the hotel’s private lift to the picturesque pebble beach below. End the night with a glass of crisp white wine from an extensive wine list and baked monkfish with a vanilla sauce at Vapor, the Michelin-recommended restaurant helmed by renowned Croatian chef Saša Računica. adriaticluxuryhotels.com


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ART BEAT

Seventeen leading contemporary artists from 11 countries, including Britain’s Martin Creed and Richard Long, are displaying their work at this year’s Art of the Treasure Hunt, an exhibition hosted by various wineries across Italy’s scenic Chianti region. Focusing on multiculturalism and self-reflection in the modern tech age, take a digital detox by immersing yourself in the calligraphic installations, left, of Taiwanese artist Yahon Chang, which reference the ancient Chinese ink practice of Liu Bai. Until October 15. artthunt.com

SNIP! SNIP! THIS IS THE LAST MONTH IN WHICH TO CATCH THE THOROUGHLY BRILLIANT STAGE ADAPTATION OF RODDY DOYLE’S THE SNAPPER AT DUBLIN’S GATE THEATRE. THIS REVIVAL PRODUCTION HAS BEEN THE TALK OF THE CAPITAL’S THEATRE SET, BRINGING IN NEW AUDIENCES TO EXPERIENCE THE MOVING, CANDID AND WICKEDLY FUNNY ACCOUNT OF FAMILY LIFE (AND PREGNANCY) IN 1980S’ DUBLIN. GATETHEATRE.IE

AMERICAN APPETITE Featuring national headliners, whirling rides, baby farm animals and fantastically strange foods, it is no wonder the Minnesota State Fair had over two million in attendance last year. No need to fear summer crowds, however, as the fair covers a whopping 130 hectares. This year’s music acts include Hootie & the Blowfish, Dierks Bentley, Trace Adkins, Logic, left, and Lionel Richie. But people really go for the food, with more than 300 concession stands selling everything from fried tacos on a stick to cheesy sriracha funnel cakes. Tickets $12. August 22 until September 2. mnstatefair.org

PLAY DATE Families can avoid summer-holiday cabin fever at Airfield Estate this month. With live music and DJs, a world food market, science and discovery hubs, crafts, games, dance and farmyard animals, Playstival has it all to entertain, engross and educate kids of all ages. The two-day festival also features a toddler playtime area and a sensoryfriendly, chill-out zone for children with autism. Get your tickets now to join the fun in Dundrum. Tickets from €12. August 10-11. playstival.ie


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DIASPORA

A SENSE OF DRAMA Kildare’s Shayne Brady is one half of acclaimed London interior design studio BradyWilliams, set up in 2013. Both Shayne and his co-founder, Emily Williams, specialise in luxury interior design for the hospitality, retail and residential sectors. Recently completed commissions include the compellingly different interiors of London restaurants Bob Bob Cité and Soutine. How do you ensure that BradyWilliams stands out in a crowded market? Both my co-founder Emily and I have always seen ourselves as members of the service industry. Just like our restaurant clients, we aim to provide the ultimate level of service. The highest level of detail and craftmanship is core to our work, from how we deliver and present, to stationery and branding and how our staff presents themselves. A key ethos for us is to ensure we deliver unique and innovative designs for each project that are design orientated, delivered on budget and on time. You recently completed interiors for Soutine and Bob Bob Cité. How would you describe each concept? These two restaurant designs could not be further apart, which is what makes our jobs so much fun. Soutine is a neighbourhood French brasserie, snuggled within St John’s Wood High Street – feminine, romantic and refined. When designing Soutine, the major triumph was ensuring that we had enough room to fit a Corbin & King restaurant into the existing space. Bob Bob Cité is futuristic and innovative – almost set-like in its design. The challenge was that its overall design was based on total symmetry; tolerance was down to two millimetres, which is almost unheard of in restaurant design. Luckily, we had expert joiners and an abundance of patience to ensure it was built perfectly.

What in Ireland struck you to pursue a career in architecture and design? Irish people are hugely creative and hospitable, inspiring me from my early days of interest in the industry. When studying in Dublin, my eyes were opened to the beautiful Georgian architecture and a sense of scale and proportion became inherent to my design. I was studying during the Celtic Tiger, which meant that I saw Dublin change immensely. I realised how more modern architecture and design sensibilities could be married with old traditions and values. Your work is often called theatrical and dramatic. From where do you draw inspiration? Theatre and the dramatic arts are a real passion of mine. I attend both West End theatre and musicals at least twice a month. For me, colour and lighting create dramatic moments that are one of our studio’s key sources of inspiration in our hospitality work. I also draw great inspiration from fashion design and art, and the bold creativity of these industries. And though it might sound cliché, the notion of looking up has always fascinated and inspired me. Favourite place for architecture and design? So many, but I would have to say Prague for its incredible Art Nouveau style; Vienna for remarkable buildings and café culture; Cuba for its crumbling architecture and intensely imaginative use of colour and, finally, New Orleans for its soul.

After 12 years living in London, what is the most Irish thing about you? I very much consider London my second home and Ireland will always be my true home. The most Irish thing about me must be that I carry a shamrock in my wallet everywhere I go. It was given to me by a friend some time ago and is my lucky charm. Also, I’ve an underage county medal for GAA, which many, including myself, find hard to believe! What is your splurge restaurant in London – and favourite place for cheap, comforting eats? I have been known to spend hours in a dark snug in The Fumoir Bar in Claridge’s with my great friend Beverly. The Wolseley is wonderful. The best thing is Jeremy King’s (one-half of Corbin & King) ethos that everyone is welcome, whether you’re splurging or on a budget. And of course, Mercato Metropolitana (a food market in Elephant & Castle) which I love for its affordable bites, its focus on local suppliers and for giving back to the local community. Where are your Kildare hotspots when you go home? Having designed Café Wolseley in Bicester Village, it’s great that my county is home to its sister outlet, Kildare Village, which is perfect for an afternoon of shopping. The National Stud and Japanese Gardens are a must see. And if you are ever passing through my local village, Two-Mile-House, The Brown Bear is a perfect spot for a drink.


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SIMON FOWLER

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BAUHAUS PROUD Known as an iconic Cold War architectural innovation, the Stalinallee is a symbol of the Bauhaus’ marriage of fine art and function. On August 17, art:berlin (artberlin-online.de) offers a two-hour guided tour of the historical wonder, so you can get a taste of the influential art movement in preparation for its upcoming centenary. Next month the proper celebrations begin at the bauhaus-archiv (bauhaus.de), where more than 1,000 famous and fascinating Bauhaus originals will be on display.

TOUR D’ESPAÑA An ideal summer spin for cycleheads, the infamous Vuelta a España grand tour has a special element this year. Fans can follow in the admirable athletes’ tread via the Alicante Cycling Experience, a three-day cycling journey during stage three of the race. This all-inclusive travel package includes full board, airport/train transfers, bikes to borrow, a laundry service and a muscle-melting massage. The trip, from August 24-30, starts with an excursion to beautiful Calpe and ends with cheers from goggle-eyed spectators. All levels welcome. €115pp per night. alicantecyclingexperience.com

CULTURAL CAPITAL FROM AUGUST 8-18, KILKENNY IS FILLED WITH MUSIC, OUTDOOR THEATRE, SPOKEN WORD, DANCE AND LIGHT SHOWS. THE ANNUAL KILKENNY ARTS FESTIVAL EXPLORES AND EXPRESSES CULTURAL TRADITION AND ITS FORM IN MODERNITY. MOST ANTICIPATED IS CIARÁN HIND’S PERFORMANCE OF STRAVINSKY’S THE SOLDIER’S TALE, ROUGH MAGIC’S MODERN TAKE ON SHAKESPEARE’S MUCH ADO ABOUT NOTHING, CONTRALTO/CONDUCTOR NATHALIE STUTZMANN, ABOVE, AND AMY CUTLER’S COLLOQUIES EXHIBITION ILLUSTRATING WOMEN DESTROYED BY SOCIETAL EXPECTATION – DELIGHTFULLY DISRUPTIVE. KILKENNYARTS.IE


UNWIND IN NATURE Nestled within the idyllic woodlands of Center Parcs Longford Forest is Ireland’s newest luxury spa, Aqua Sana. We’ve got over 21 different spa experiences for you to discover, from hot to cold, and herbal to meditative. With steam rooms, saunas, an outdoor pool and bubbling hot tubs, we have everything you need to leave you feeling relaxed, refreshed and renewed. You don’t even have to be staying at Center Parcs to visit. We have a wide range of Spa Days and an overnight Spa Break too. Aqua Sana is your perfect spa escape in the forest. To discover more visit centerparcs.ie or to book your Spa Day visit aquasana.ie


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DAVID LOFTUS

DINNER YAMAZATO, AMSTERDAM I love Japanese cuisine, as much as I do the beautiful city of Amsterdam. The first traditional Japanese restaurant in Europe to be awarded a Michelin star, Yamazato is elegance personified. Experience some of the best sushi you’ve ever tasted, or you can go all out with the Kaiseki menu. I usually go for the sushi moriawase – a selection of maki and nigiri, and to complement the food there’s also an amazing sake and wine list. okura.nl

BRUNCH THE WOLSELEY, LONDON The Wolseley in Mayfair kicks off any occasion in style. Don’t be thrown by the waitstaff in formal wear; the place may come across as stiff from the outside but, once inside, it has a real easy-going buzz. I’m usually in shorts and Toms but I’m always made to feel right at home the second I walk in the door. It has its own in-house bakery so I always start with a coffee and a pastry, or two. Then it has to be the fried haggis and duck eggs with whisky sauce and a side of kedgeree. It’s an epic start to any day. thewolseley.com

LUNCH THE GREENHOUSE, DUBLIN There’s no doubt in my mind which kitchen is serving up the best lunch in Ireland at the moment. Chef Mickael Viljanen has a creative output like no other, he is driven, with a repertoire of classical dishes enhanced by a service with plenty of charm. The last time I was at The Greenhouse on Dawson Street, I had practically everything on the menu, but the standout dish had to be the scallop with frozen oyster, elderflower vinegar, jalapeño and caviar. Unforgettable. thegreenhouserestaurant.ie

FOOD FLIGHT Kevin Aherne, the chef of Sage restaurant (sagerestaurant.ie) in Midleton, East Cork since 2008, is at the forefront of the “micro local” movement, using only produce that has been grown and harvested within “12 miles” of his restaurant. He is also the director of Feast Cork Festival (feastcork.ie), which this year runs from September 1-8.

DRINKS THE MUTTON LANE INN, CORK Sometimes you can travel all over the world searching for your favourite spots. This bar just happens to be in the city I love so much. There’s little I enjoy more than a few creamy pints of Beamish in Mutton Lane. The atmosphere and music always tee up a great evening, or make for a perfect afternoon drink or two with friends. A Cork institution. facebook.com/mutton.lane


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ITALIAN RAPSCALLIONS Big Mamma Group’s latest riot of kitschy Italian excess, Circolo Popolare, opened its doors in Fitzrovia last month with a launch party that was the talk of the town for days – an eternity on a restaurant scene where there are sometimes 50 new openings per month. With its Big Mamma credentials – and it being a dining room hemmed by teetering shelves holding up 20,000 bottles of booze – Circolo was never going to be the shy, retiring type. And all the better for that. Happy hedonists who reserve a table can relax in the knowledge that they will be pretty much guaranteed a rollicking night out, filled with Italian exuberance, a raucous atmosphere and plenty of gastro-theatrical surprises along the way, as Big Mamma Group keep the giggles coming. bigmammagroup.com

GRUB’S UP Eoin Higgins seeks out novelties for eating and drinking.

OMG OMAKASE Minimal, monochromatic, dark, tactile … words that spring to mind upon

entering this authentic new Japanese hotspot in Philadelphia’s funky Fishtown. HIROKI’s menu is overseen by highly regarded chef Hiroki Fujiyama, previously of Philadelphia’s esteemed Morimoto, where he trained under the world-renowned Masaharu Morimoto, and features two prix-fixe options: one with 17 courses and the other with 21. Both include a few local, seasonal small plates followed by a spectacular omakase selection. As for tipples, an extensive sake list from across Japan, along with a thoughtfully curated selection of top-notch Japanese whiskeys and gins, fits the bill nicely. A new Fishtown essential. hirokisan.com

FIVE WEE DRAMS

TULLAMORE D.E.W. Since 1829, whiskey has been distilled alongside the Grand Canal, in Tullamore, Co Offaly. Visit the distillery today and you can follow in the footsteps of Daniel E. Williams, the creator of a whiskey that still bears his initials. tullamoredew.com

Whiskey experiences a go go

JAMESON, CORK The Jameson Distillery Experience tour is fully guided and wends its way around the original Co Cork distillery, bringing its rich heritage to life. The tour ends with a hosted tasting of three famous Midleton whiskeys, one being Jameson. jamesonwhiskey.com

IRISH WHISKEY MUSEUM For €20 for one hour, learn the origins of Irish whiskey and discover memorable new whiskey expressions at the centre on Dublin’s Grafton Street. For €3 more, raise your tour to “premium”, with rarer tipples and a take-home souvenir. irishwhiskeymuseum.ie

TEELING DISTILLERY The first new distillery in Dublin for over 125 years, Teeling’s pot still produces up to 500,000 litres of spirit each year. Discover the sights, sounds, smells and tastes of a true working distillery, daily from 10am until 5.40pm (last tour). teelingwhiskey.com

ROE & CO The historic meets the contemporary on the Roe & Co distillery tour, Dublin City. Explore the science of distillation, the art of blending and a handson flavour workshop. Afterwards, relax with a complimentary cocktail in the Power House. roeandcowhiskey.com


DETOURIST Eoin Higgins takes shore leave and a salty saunter through Edinburgh’s intriguing Leith.

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s Edinburgh’s mercantile point of contact with the North Sea, Leith has been drawing in a cosmopolitan set since at least the 14th century. Having slipped out of favour for a spell in the late 20th century, it is currently enjoying a commercial, creative and social renaissance.

NOSY Formerly the floating palace of the royal family, Royal Yacht Britannia, is currently berthed at Leith’s Ocean Terminal. Its exterior belies the intimate portrait its interior gives of the day-to-day life of the travelling royals, in particular Queen Elizabeth, whose personal taste is revealed via a self-led, audio-guided tour. royalyachtbritannia.co.uk

GROOVE Check out Irish songster Conor O’Brien as he belts out his Villagers repertoire, or Scottish pop sophisticates Teenage Fanclub banging out their own tops of the pops at Leith Theatre. All part of this month’s Edinburgh International Festival, which happens citywide – with all manner of high- and low-brow cultural morsels to savour. eif.co.uk


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TASTE If Leith plays the roguish sailor to Edinburgh’s grand dame, then The Shore is the seaman’s stamping ground – all cobbled streets, tipsy buildings and bobbing boats. Highlights including the Michelin star-strewn Restaurant Martin Wishart (restaurantmartinwishart.co.uk) and the homely, and good value The Ship on the Shore (theshipontheshore.co.uk).

SPEND Want to support local craftspeople, patronise community artists and dabble in regional design? You can by spending your sterling at the Scottish Design Exchange. Here, get up close and personal with the forces that underpin much of what makes the neighbourhood bristle with a sense of creative possibility. scottishdesignexchange.com

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EXERCISE Starting (or finishing) in Leith, the 20km Water of Leith Walkway is a lusciously leafy trail that can be sectioned off to do piecemeal, or completed via a one-off jog, cycle or stroll. For anglers, there are plenty of good fishing spots along the way, with wild brown trout, grayling and even the odd pike to hook, line and sinker. waterofleith.org.uk


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HOMEMADE Totes at the ready for our summer round-up of covetable Irish jewellery, homewares, statement furniture and skincare.

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Inspired by golden gorse, Loinnir Jewellery’s Irish Shrubbery Moonstone Ring adds an elegant finish to everyday wear. Yellow gold with a glitter of moonstone ... magical. €145 at www.loinnir jewellery.com.

This year marks the 100th Liffey Swim. To celebrate, Damn Fine Print has collaborated with Irish illustrators in a new summer series. Steve Simpson’s seafoam green and orange print is a coastal treat. €90 at damnfineprint.com.

Sleek meets chic in Aisling McElwain’s slate collection. Charcoal grey, matte exteriors contrast with teal interiors, each sealed with a gold trim. Bowls, vases, jugs and plates available. From €32 at aisling mcelwain.com.

Mourne Textiles have nailed the trendy yet practical beachhouse look. These uber-luxe Salthill Tweed Cushions are available in an array of colours, making any room pop with unique flair. €162 at mournetextiles.com.

Don’t be fooled by its modern and crisp design, Elements of Action’s Steel and Leather Arm Chair is more comfy than it looks. Linen upholstery comes in a range of hues, while belt buckles add an edge. €1,900 at elementsof action.net.

“Found in nature, perfected by science” is Bia Skincare’s mantra for its new Codex line. Created by Cork-born herbal scientist Tracey Ryan, its vegan skin superfood is made from native Irish plants. From €51 at codexbeauty.com.


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Get home with Ireland’s largest airport coach network Wherever home is, Expressway will get you there with over 300 daily departures to and from Dublin Airport, to destinations all over Ireland. Expressway is the way better way to travel. Find out more and book online at expressway.ie Please note that not all destinations are included on this map. For full route destinations see expressway.ie

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DO NOT DISTURB by Raoul Shah (Laslett) The first “Do Not Disturb” sign Raoul Shah collected was from a New York hotel room in 1980, on his first trip to the USA with his parents. Over the next four decades, while setting up Exposure, a creative agency based in three cities, he amassed more than 500 signs from hotels. Now he has photographed them for this curious, poignant coffee table book, which pays homage to the discreet charm of hotel living. Some signs are exotic and eccentric – a carved wooden fish from Amankila Resort in Bali, an oversized calligraphy brush from Six Senses in Singapore – but more evocative are the mundane, unobtrusive requests for privacy. SCIENCE

IN PRAISE OF WALKING by Shane O’Mara (Bodley Head) Maybe it’s linked to growing environmental alarm but walking is having a publishing moment (see also Erling Kagge’s Walking One Step at a Time). O’Mara praises walking as exercise for our bodies but, as a neuroscientist, it’s the effect on our minds he’s really interested in – walking makes us more creative, more adaptive, happier, less stressed. H I S TO RY

MUDLARKING: IN SEARCH OF LONDON’S PAST ALONG THE RIVER THAMES by Lara Maiklem (Bloomsbury, Aug 22) Mudlarking: “the act of scavenging in the mud for items discarded by past generations”. When Maiklem moved to London in her 20s, she was homesick for the family farm, so spent the next 15 years scrabbling on the Thames banks. What a haul she gets: Neolithic flints, Roman hair pins, Georgian clay pipes and Victorian toys. All meticulously annotated, photographed or sketched.

SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican leafs through summer’s page-turners and has the skinny on new kids’ adventures. FESTIVAL The largest literary festival in the world, Edinburgh International Book Festival (August 10-26) convenes 900 authors in 800 events, with something for everyone. For families, the Baillie Gifford Children’s Programme showcases renowned authors and illustrators, including Cressida Cowell, below, Julia Donaldson, Alexander McCall Smith and John Boyne. Also, craft workshops, storytelling, sing-alongs, drawing, stand-up (with Harry Hill), creative writing classes, workshops to handle anxiety – literally hundreds of events for children of all ages. edbookfest.co.uk

FICTION

THE OUTSIDER by Emily Hourican (Hachette Ireland) Two 12-year-old girls meet on holiday in Portugal – one of them has wealth, poise and siblings; the other, an awkward, only child of insecure parents. Back in Dublin, their mothers ensure the friendship continues. Another summer holiday in Kerry six years later, the power balance tips … Acute, disquieting observation of adolescence and female friendship. Holiday friends, like shells, should stay by the beach.

EVENT AWARD-WINNING THEATRE, VISUAL ART AND DANCE COMPANY ANU PRODUCTIONS BRING SCRAPEFOOT – ITS VERSION OF GOLDILOCKS – TO DUBLIN’S BRILLIANT CHILDREN’S CULTURAL CENTRE, THE ARK. JUST FOUR PEOPLE AT A TIME ENTER THE WORLD OF SCRAPEFOOT FOR AN IMMERSIVE ADVENTURE IN THE HOUSE IN THE WOODS. FOR CHILDREN AGED SIX-PLUS, WITH A SESSION FOR GROWN-UPS ON THURSDAYS. UNTIL AUGUST 31. ARK.IE


THE WORLD’S MOST MAGNIFICENT CASTLE HOTEL C E L E B R AT I N G 8 0 Y E A R S O F H O S P I TA L I T Y Enter through grand stone gates to discover an 800-year-old castle and former home to the Guinness family. Overlooking Lough Corrib, Ashford Castle is renowned for its warm Irish hospitality, exceptional dining experiences and an unrivalled range of estate activities - all set within the magnificent 350-acre Ashford estate. BEST OF THE BEST IN THE WORLD by Virtuoso

Ashford Castle, Cong, Co. Mayo T: +353 (0) 9495 46003 | E: ashford@ashfordcastle.com ASHFORDCASTLE.COM


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Best thing about living in London? You get the best of both worlds in so many ways. Home isn’t that far but the wider world is on your doorstep. There’s never a dull moment. Like New York, the best of everything is a tube ride away and opportunities are teeming but, unlike New York, you can be back in the family home in three hours if you have to.

Favourite comedy city? Really hard to pick one because each place has something you can’t find anywhere else. Glasgow for 11 months of the year is easily the best place to perform in. The Stand Comedy Club there is an absolute must. In August, Edinburgh is the only place I like to be. Every type, shape, genre and level of comedy is present. Dig around and you will find new comedy gold in the least likely of places.

MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Kildare-born Jarlath Regan dubs himself “comedian, podcaster, baker and greeting card maker”. When he’s not doing stand-up – catch him at Dublin’s Laughter Lounge on August 1-3 – he’s interviewing figures such as Hozier, Brian O’Driscoll and Boy George for his “Irish Man Abroad” podcast. Favoured hangout during the Edinburgh Fringe? There’s an amazing venue off the Royal Mile called The Tron, where the Fringe happens downstairs. And when I’m trying to avoid festival hustle, I’ll head to The Meadows where it feels like the Fringe’s frenetic energy evaporates. For comics, it’s such an intense month that most will only hang out on the final week. That’s when The Stand on York Place is the only place to be.

What have you learned while living abroad? I miss Ireland a lot more than I thought I would. We laugh a lot – way more than other countries. If you’re considered “no craic” in Ireland, you’re basically unemployable.

You’ve interviewed many big names for your podcast. Pick a fave? We celebrated our 300th episode in June with a gala event featuring Aisling Bea, Laura Whitmore, Angela Scanlon, Roisin Conaty, Bronagh Waugh and Niall Breslin, above. All the money from the night went to the London Irish Centre Charity.

What is the most surprising place you’ve visited? Kenmare, Co Kerry. I spent my childhood summers in Kerry and thought I knew it like the back of my hand. On a whim I took my wife Tina to the Park Hotel for a few days and it blew my mind. The hotel itself, run by the legendary Brennan brothers, is the best place I’ve ever stayed in, from every perspective. The town and surrounding area are stunning and rich in history, with little surprises around every corner.

Your podcast frequently discusses the struggles Irish emigrants face coming home. What is their biggest barrier? The expense of transporting your life from say, Australia, can run into tens of thousands. That’s before you look at getting housing, car tax or insurance. If you have kids, it starts to get a little crazy. It’s sad because most Irish move away with a plan to return. I wanted to change that for one person so I teamed up with CurrencyFair — a service for immigrants with bills in multiple countries — to create a contest where the winner receives a €30,000 relocation package to move home. If you visit currencyfair.com/comehome you can enter the contest ...


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WEEKENDER

HONEST TO POD Shayna Sappington leaves the tent pegs at home to check in to Glendalough Glamping.

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e heard nothing but the rustling of trees and the occasional bleeting of sheep from the nearby farm during our stay at Glendalough Glamping in Co Wicklow. Think rehab for the soul, this discrete, sweet spot is tucked away down a gravel side-road just outside Glendalough. After arriving and keying in the gate code, which the owner installed to ensure guests’ utmost privacy, we continued down the narrow path until it opened to reveal the most stunning views this writer had ever seen. A layering of hills and valleys, covered by thick forests and open fields alike, envelops the glampsite with 360-degree panoramas. This magnificent vista can be admired from the main lodging that comprises a kitchen, dining area, laundry room and washroom facilities that are modern, pristine and thankfully not too far away from the rustic, bucolic pods.

Glendalough Glamping owner Patrick hand-built the pods himself, which wasn’t necessarily the intention. “When I first got the land, I wasn’t sure what I was going to do with it,” he admits. “But I did know I wanted it to be an escape – for people to leave the city behind and truly relax and unwind in nature.” And with just nine pods – and a promise of 15 maximum – he has been able to maintain this mantra. Although glamping has become something of a trend, it’s important to Patrick that it doesn't become too “commercialised.” He does though have plans to add a small on-site sauna and clubhouse, for groups to socialise in or individuals seeking privacy. But there is much to explore beyond your doorstep. There are two main walking paths: one to the Glendalough monastery, which includes a lovely walk around the lakes and lasts around two hours; the second is along the Wicklow Way, accessible by two approaches –

“the romantic way” (a nice, easy stroll down the hill and along the main road to its entrance) or “the adventurous way” (an uphill hike for those looking for more of a physical challenge). Whichever path you choose, refuel at The Wicklow Heather (wicklowheather.ie) afterwards, for a delicious, hearty meal to replenish those lost calories (the fish ‘n’ chips were fried to perfection). The restaurant also has a fascinating literature collection, which you can peruse when too weary to carry a conversation with your travel mate. Stay for a glass of red or join the locals at Lynham’s (lynhamsoflaragh.ie) in the nearby village hotel, where pints are surprisingly cheap and the craic is fantastically casual. We ended the night sat out on our pod’s terrace with a glass of a local whiskey underneath a milky sky glittering with stars. Fleece blankets, pod-provided, are available to wrap yourself up in and enjoy the quiet night sky views. The next day, you can take the trail less travelled and grub up with a Full Irish at Ann’s Coffee Shop (0404 454 54) – the local biker/cyclist hangout. Decorated with antique hats, a Wicklow Way mural, and tributes to the local and very accomplished cyclist community, its quirky, small-town vibe captures the essence of the weekend here. Pods cost from €100 per night. Kitchen, kitchenware, dining area, washing/drying machines, toilets, baggage storage and BBQs onsite and available for guests. glendaloughglamping.ie

Cara would like to thank AVIS for their assistance. For the very best car rental deals, visit CARS.AERLINGUSCARS.COM.


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A LETTER HOME Aisling Brennan, age 12, is the primary school victor of the Young Travel Writers Competition at this year’s Lismore Immrama Festival of Travel Writing, sponsored by Aer Lingus. Here, we share her winning “Postcard to Home”. ILLUSTRATION ANNE O’HARA


This postcard is coming to you from Brazil, South America! Yesterday, my travelling companions and I kayaked along the Amazon river. We passed through deep caves filled with various sizes of bats, their soft wings silently fluttering above our heads and we were thrown down fast flowing rapids and waterfalls. It was so exciting. We marvelled at animals of every size, colour and shape – all the hues of the rainbow! What an experience! Tomorrow, we plan to travel west and hike towards Guayaquil to experience the incredible wildlife and scenery you have always told me about ... When you first landed in Brazil yourself many years ago! We have stayed here eight days now though it feels like months. What an experience! We will have to say goodbye to this wonderful culture in less than a week, but these priceless memories will never leave me, just as they have never left you. I’ve taken lots of pictures and have kept a diary of our escapades so far just as you said. I wish you were here with us Grandma. Everything here reminds me of stories told late at night, around your blazing fire, of laughter and of all your adventures. I know you have always dreamed of returning to this paradise and I have tried to do this for you. Reliving your adventure makes me feel closer to you every day. Thank you for always encouraging me to follow my dreams and achieve my goals. Thank you for being my inspiration and guide throughout my life. You’re such an amazing Grandma!

Aisling Brennan is a student at St John of God NS, Waterford where her teacher is Ms Clare Sheane. Earlier this year, young writers were encouraged to submit entries in three different school categories: primary, secondary junior and secondary senior. Almost 500 entries were received from schools across Ireland, with three winners announced at the Aer Lingus-sponsored Lismore Immrama Festival of Travel Writing in June. In our September issue, check out the award winning junior school entry by Éadoaoin Drumgoole, aged 13.


ng i d a e f l ds o s e qu e b ran i t u o b festyl 0 0 1 e t o and li m o H shio n fa

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RHYME& REASON This year has been extraordinary for Dublin’s “punk Beatles”, Fontaines D.C., whose debut album Dogrel has received rapturous reviews – and a rigorous international tour schedule. But what does success really mean to this quintet? WORDS TONY CLAYTON-LEA PHOTOGRAPHS EOIN HIGGINS

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s feasible manifestos go, it would seem that Fontaines D.C. have got it right: “A minimalist approach was there from the start: three chords, backbeat, don’t say anything at all. Play the songs and let them speak for us.” In rock music there are many different stylistic strands yet, evidently, only two methods of performing. The first is a mix of jazz hands, big mouths, brightly coloured clothes and an onstage presence that we can confidently describe as “entertaining”. The second and arguably more circumspect is what seems to be a sullen display of bad manners but is, more often than not, a serious attempt at reining in the uber-personality. That’s what Fontaines D.C. are all about – all killer, no filler. Egalitarianism, sensible self-image, realistic self-worth. Over the years we have seen too many bands and musicians lose the run of themselves at the sight of a positive review, but not these Dublinbased lads. While the response to their live shows over the past 18 months – as well as reaction to their May-released debut album, Dogrel – has bordered on the rapturous, from local press to NME, The Guardian and Q, there is a sense that Fontaines D.C. are taking it all in their stride.


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Such an approach makes perfect sense, yet one can’t doubt that their lives have been twisted sideways with the speed of their success in the past 12 months. Although they’ve been a band for five years, it is only in the past three that their music has graduated from small rehearsal rooms to grander stages. The last year, meanwhile, has seen the band rapidly progress from Ireland-only favourites to likely international chosen ones. That marked progression of profile – how have they processed this? It hasn’t been easy, they admit. Gathered around a table in a gentrified building in Dublin’s Liberties neighbourhood – in part, the vivid geographic genesis of the songs that populate their equally characterful debut album – three members of the band chat about their early days and where-to-next timeframes. But first, the current workload and how the shift from obscurity to cover stars (how they would laugh at this description) has proven to be challenging. “Yeah, it’s difficult to ignore,” says bass player Deego (aka Conor Deegan) of the barrage of adulation directed towards the band. “It affects the ego, good and bad. You get sleep deprived; you lose touch with loads of friends because you don’t see them.” “The positives are that we get to travel and see so many places we would never have had the means to see otherwise,” remarks guitarist Curley (aka Conor Curley). “But having that conversation with your peers about aspects of the hard work is difficult, because as a band we know it isn’t what they think or presume it is. It isn’t the dream come true, because we work like dogs.” “I’ve spent more hours awake this year in a van than I have in my own house,” points out guitarist Carlos O’Connell. “It isn’t at all glamorous but, once you become used to it, you start to live within those restrictions in the best way you can.”

All five band members (missing from the round-table conversation are vocalist Grian Chatten and drummer Tom Coll) met at Liberties-based music college BIMM Dublin several years ago. Not all finished their courses but each knew a good thing when they encountered it: the company of like-minded people who had more in their heads than lopsided ideas about what success really meant. Several things solidified their fixed friendship: a love of literature and poetry, an unquenchable desire to discover music they hadn’t heard before, an unaffected process in creating art and a collective selflessness that stripped away any notions of ego. Alongside these was a shared obsessive nature that glued it all together. “The friendship was there from the start,” notes Curley. “We had all started with an idea and were excited about playing music. We were also all in it at the same time and that development brought us closer very quickly. The first rehearsal we had probably sounded awful but we came out of the room feeling incredible. After that, we’d stay up late talking about songs that we were either working on or we had heard. There was incredible excitement about the whole thing.” The band’s self-confessed “punk-Beatles” starting-off point developed quickly enough into a three-chord amalgam of New Yorkinfluenced post-punk. They were, they admit, “probably a lot more ready-steady-go, plug in and play”, whereas now “we labour a bit more over the various sounds and how we want to come across instead of being, sonically, a flash-in-the-pan”. With Dogrel unanimously established as one of the finest albums of the year (from any band of any nationality), the musicians feel there’s little point in further discussing its merits and its inspirations. They are, frankly, weary of the media’s all-too inevitable echo chamber effect. “That occurs when you say something

“The first rehearsal we had probably sounded awful but we came out of the room feeling incredible”

Cerebral sounds – clockwise from top left, Carlos O’Connell, Conor Deegan, Grian Chatten, Tom Coll and Conor Curley.


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INTERVIEW

THE LIKES OF FONTAINES D.C.

about certain things [on the album] that people find vaguely interesting,” says Deego, “but then everyone starts repeating it. It’s good that people have something to say about us, for sure, but the whole ‘lads that like writing music and reading books of poetry’ got blown out of all proportion.” “It isn’t really extraordinary that we read,” deadpans Curley. The discourse, too, about Dogrel’s stimuli, its illuminating range of characters, its vernacular and its vital, oral sketches of “Dublin in the rain” has been chewed over ad infinitum and ceremoniously spat out, says O’Connell. The vibe we sense is that if one more question is asked about it, they’ll answer politely while simultaneously stifling a big fat yawn. “Months have passed,” O’Connell continues, “and, while the album isn’t by any means dead, if anyone wants to know what it is about then they’ll just have to listen to it and find out.” This is only right and proper. Onwards is the uninhibited battle cry for this most articulate of bands and so, for most of the summer – with some festival shows as buffers – they will be sequestered in Dublin

writing new songs. Unusually for any music act with such a multi-textured debut album, there is no impression whatsoever that they will stick to any given pattern. Anything and everything is up for grabs. “You have to call it,” says O’Connell, revealing a brusque, dogmatic frame of mind. “Do you want to write an album that you know people will like because they’ve liked previous songs of yours that are written in a certain fashion? Or do you want an album comprising songs we just continue to write – different-sounding songs, perhaps?” The question is pointedly rhetorical. “We know that the next album can be whatever we want it to be,” O’Connell concludes, “and that’s the very best position we can be in as artists.” Why so? The game/set/match reply: “Because no one expects the next album to be anything other than us as a band.” Dogrel is out now. The band are touring across Europe, North America and Canada all year, and on August 2, play Ireland’s All Together Now festival. fontainesband.com

MUSIC Deego: “I always come back to Bob Dylan’s 1965 album, Highway 61 Revisited. I keep finding something new in it. It’s weird because, when I was younger, I used to really like the lyrics and thought for years that was the main aspect to it but, as I get older, I’m enjoying more the energy of the music. That sounds a bit counterintuitive, yet it shows that as art stays the same, personal perspectives can change.” BOOKS O’Connell: “Poet in New York by Federico García Lorca, the Spanish poet and playwright. He died in 1936, during the Spanish Civil War, aged only 38. The book is amazing – it was written from the perspective of a guy from Spain who visited NYC, which Lorca did in 1929. It’s very similar to beat poetry, so it was incredibly ahead of its time and was a major influence on Leonard Cohen.”

CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK THE MASONRY (ICONIC OFFICES), THOMAS STREET, DUBLIN 8.

MOVIES Curley: “It has to be Dead Man’s Shoes, directed by Shane Meadows. It’s from 2004 and stars Paddy Considine, who co-wrote it with Meadows. It’s a stripped back film about the bond between two brothers, one of which is ex-British Army, the other who is intellectually challenged. My older brother showed the movie to me years ago and from that moment on it has meant a lot.”


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PRINTERS INC. Beautiful, affordable art is created in Ireland’s many print studios, which are not only a place of work and collaboration for artists but often welcome in the public for workshops. WORDS GEMMA TIPTON PHOTOGRAPHS RUTH CONNOLLY

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reland abounds in print palaces, from Creative Spark in Co Louth, to the renowned Black Church Print Studio in Dublin. These are atmospheric places where huge presses, or small screens, are slathered in ink, pigment or paint, and from which, by a precise alchemy, gorgeously glowing art emerges. Still, it’s tempting to see prints as the Cinderella of the art world. They can be overlooked, and you don’t always immediately spot their beauty in comparison to some of the flashier arts (hands up oil, bronze, gouache and neon), but once you’ve discovered them, you’re bound to be won over. From the fun and the funky to the extraordinary and gorgeous, and taking in all points in between, printmaking is one of the most surprisingly versatile artistic mediums. It’s also incredibly democratic: instead of just one unique artwork, you can have lots. This also makes print more affordable, so it’s a brilliant way to start an art collection. But be careful: once you’ve fallen in love with Prints Charming, you may find yourself smitten for life. You’ll discover print studios in most major Irish cities, either privately run, making instantly recognisable images, or membership studios – places where artists can go in and turn their hand to the magic. Most also welcome the public, with courses and classes.

THE DUB LINERS

JANDO DESIGN With backgrounds in IT, finance and marketing, the JANDO duo aren’t your obvious printmakers but, planning their wedding, Julie and Owen McLoughlin couldn’t find stationery to suit and so they made their own. “Then, in 2015, Julie stumbled upon a series of screen prints that I had been working on in my spare time,” explains Owen. “She fell in love with them and decided to approach several retailers. Things took off for us there and we haven’t looked back.” Growing from strength to strength,

JANDO, now based across two studios in Dublin, has been winning awards for screen prints, exporting and exhibiting around the world, while also working with Trinity College, the UK’s National Trust, Jameson Irish Whiskey and Tullamore D.E.W. A JANDO day starts around 6am, when Owen is at the computer, responding to emails and working on online orders. “I’ve been trying to limit my time on Instagram of late. It can be a time vortex if you allow it to be,” he says wryly. “I always try to have meetings before lunchtime so I can spend the rest of the afternoon working on new sketches and illustrations.” His favourite moment is

also the most nerve-wracking: “Even though it’s the part where you doubt yourself and your work the most, I love when, after weeks of sketches, test prints and choosing colours, we’re finally pulling it all together and about to reach the finish line and release the final piece into the wild.” jandodesign.com What inspires you? “We enjoy city living and have lived in Dublin for almost 20 years [Owen is from Baltinglass and Julie from Kiltegan]. We felt at home here from day one. It’s impossible not to be influenced by the energy, the people and the architecture of the city.”


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PEOPLE

ON MEDIEVAL MILE

BLACKSTACK STUDIO

Did you know that some of the traditional printmaking materials can be highly toxic? Found down an atmospheric laneway off the Medieval Mile, in the heart of Kilkenny City, Blackstack Studio is committed to making print a healthy thing to do, using safer materials and processes. For artist Maeve Coulter, one of the things she likes best is print’s rich history: “Its origins as a means to communicate to the masses, not the few, appeals to me. I love that it is so broad, encompassing tradition and innovation, satisfying to both the old school and the more avant-garde.” Blackstack operates in the same way, as members come to make their work, access programmes allow the community to use the facilities, and an annual Print Box Set of mini prints showcases work and raises funds for the running costs. It also collaborates, such as recently with Kilkenny’s Butler Gallery and artist Jane O’Malley, but a typical day ranges from the “blissfully peaceful, quiet” of just one person with the studio to themselves, or at busier times, the hum of artists working on their individual projects. “We meet every two months for a catch up and studio planning,” says Coulter. “And we work together for group exhibitions at art venues in the region and on other special projects. We often work as individuals in isolation so it’s a great opportunity to engage with each other, share information, thoughts, or just a cup of tea.” blackstackstudio.com Favourite artwork? “I love John Shinnors’ work, particularly his Birds Over Loop I. I heard that he released swallows he discovered trapped in a building. The sense of confinement, panic and liberation, all at once, enthrals me every time.”

THE INSTITUTION

GRAPHIC STUDIO DUBLIN

Established in 1960, in a basement on Mount Street, Graphic Studio now operates out of an atmospheric former brewery building in Dublin’s Docklands. It also owns and runs a gallery in Temple Bar and has a vast selection of fine art prints for sale. “Many of Ireland’s great artists have worked at Graphic Studio Dublin in the past, either as members or as visiting artists,” says studio director and artist Robert Russell, going on to name an illustrious list, including Tony O’Malley, Louis Le Brocquy, Mary Farl Powers, Diana Copperwhite and Maser. While the studio’s 70 members have 24/7 access, there is a range of courses to welcome the public in to try their hand or perfect their techniques, from etching to woodcut, screen printing to book binding. “A typical day in the studio would include anything from chopping large sheets of copper down to the required plate sizes, to gently hand-wiping a delicate area of an image before rolling it by hand,” says Russell. It’s a slow process, as platemaking and proofing can take weeks before an edition is printed. graphicstudiodublin.com Favourite place: “I love the Irish countryside, especially forests. I have often wondered why we artists are driven to paint and make prints. But I do know that walking through an Irish forest and seeing the wildlife there, makes me want to make art.”


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PEOPLE

THE SILK SCREEN MAKERS

DAMN FINE PRINT

THE CURATORS

CORK PRINTMAKERS

Although set up by former students from the Crawford College of Art and Design to make space for print in Cork City, Cork Printmakers is also focusing on a more in-depth programme through collaborations, commissions, guest artists and its gallery on Wandesford Quay. Director Miguel Amado estimates about half of Cork Printmakers’ 100 members use the studios on a regular basis, making it a busy, lively spot. Members and those doing courses can make prints using screen-printing, lithography, intaglio, relief and digital equipment. There are also workshops and courses, residencies and bursaries. Appointed just last year, Amado is also passionate about community projects and art as a way of creating social change. Invested in the intellectual side of curation, he says: “My work mixes intellectual rigour, a hands-on approach, deep knowledge of theory and art, and a commitment to community development.” In practice, this means opening up art to everyone and “promoting it as a tool for democratisation”. There are collaborations with organisations including GASP, a group of artists with intellectual disabilities, the Cork Traveller Women’s Network and the Cork Migrant Centre, supporting people in direct provision. A typical day will range from working with members and guest artists, making work for clients, and running courses and classes. Meanwhile, in the office, there are meetings with artists, funders, potential collaborators and partners and collectors who have discovered the wealth of material here. corkprintmakers.ie Favourite thing about print? “[It is] an ideal medium for an art practice more responsive to the urgencies, needs, aspirations and dreams of communities, instigating methodologies of collaboration towards co-creation.”

Above, Cork Printmakers’ studio manager Johnny Bugler and member Emma O’Hara. Right, Damn Fine Print co-founder Kim Willoughby and, opposite, member Liam Gough. Following page, clockwise from left, Stoney Road Press’ co-founders Eileen Maguire and David O’Donoghue and members Kelvin Mann and John Fitzsimons.

In Dublin’s artisan area of Stoneybatter, Damn Fine Print has grown from being a space for its co-founders to make their own work, to being a lively membership studio, that runs courses, has a shop and gallery, and does brilliant pop-up print sessions. “We’re only a two minutes’ walk from Jameson Distillery,” says one of the founders, Kim Willoughby. “So, we get plenty of people dropping in to pick up some local art on their travels.” You can also opt for short-term passes to see your own project through. The courses are great for anyone starting from scratch, or artists switching mediums. As Willoughby says, it can be “a fun day getting creative with friends in the studio”, or something more serious. The studio specialises in silk-screen printing. “These are mainly in short runs of hand-pulled prints that are unique each time they’re made,” she explains. “We also do risograph printing (think of it like mechanical screen printing) that is done with a really quirky 1980s duplicator machine.” An artist herself, Willoughby says she doesn’t get as much time on her own work as she’d like, but “we’ve such an eclectic mix of members with different styles, it’s great to see what’s created here. That’s one of the most rewarding parts for me, seeing the output from this studio that we set up on a whim!” damnfineprint.com Favourite thing about printmaking? “It’s all the about the process. It’s a fantastic way to escape the mobile and laptop and produce something entirely by hand.”


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THE FINE ARTISTS

STONEY ROAD PRESS

On a quiet central Dublin laneway, just off the Royal Canal, Stoney Road works with artists to make high quality prints. Collaborations have included Brian O’Doherty, Dorothy Cross, Eilis O’Connell, Patrick Scott, Julian Lennon – the list goes on. Each day begins “with a good cup of coffee,” says Eileen Maguire, who set up the studios with her husband, David O’Donoghue, and fellow artist James O’Nolan in 2001. O’Nolan died last year and is much missed.

PEOPLE

“Coffee is very important; the creativity starts when everybody sits down with a cup. Everything gets discussed …” The studio does woodblock printing, photopolymer, carborundum and letterpress printing, so artists are only limited by their imaginations – leading to wonderfully unlimited results. “The magical moment,” says Maguire, “is when the proof is coming off the press, that wonderful sound of the paper being peeled from its plate and the ‘voila’ moment ... using the creative ingenuity of the artist, with the technical skills of the master printmaker.” Visitors are welcome, “probably best to phone in advance though,

to make sure we’re respectable! The full portfolio of artworks from over 40 artists can be viewed,” she adds. The studio also works with Artisan Framers and undertakes conservation work, so if you have a much-loved piece yourself that needs some TLC, take note. With art valuations and installation of artworks for clients on offer too, Maguire describes it as “the ‘farm to fork’ studio of the Irish art world”. stoneyroadpress.com Favourite place? “Liscannor in the west of Ireland. Even just three to four days there is wonderful, swimming in the Atlantic Ocean off the rocks at Clahane.”


LIFE CYCLE Co Waterford’s recently arrived Greenway reveals the county’s most scenic aspects to cyclist, walker and toddler alike. WORDS NICOLA BRADY PHOTOGRAPHS MELANIE MULLAN


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he rusty train tracks run alongside the path, scattered with pockets of bright red poppies and wild daisies weaving between the weathered, wooden slats. A couple of bees poke their heads into the flowers and gently chirping birds flitter overhead, against a glorious blue sky. But I can’t appreciate any of that because, in a spectacular display of clumsy idiocy, I’ve just dropped my bike on to my own leg, leaving a fairly sizeable gash and a rapidly growing lump on my shin. I’ve cycled hundreds of kilometres over the years, so to injure myself whilst standing still, on a bike path shared by chubby toddlers and sausage dogs, feels like insult added to rather literal injury. But people are looking. So, I pick up my bike, resist the urge to clutch my leg dramatically and keep on pedalling. I’m cycling the Waterford Greenway (visitwaterfordgreenway.com), a 46-

WATERFORD GREENWAY

kilometre trail along the route of the old railway line from Waterford to Dungarvan. Following the rather lovely Irish tradition of converting disused tracks into Greenways, the Waterford iteration has taken the Southeast by storm and transformed a region that was slow to recover after the recession. Garvan Cummins (thegreenwayman. com) was one of the driving forces behind it. “It’s been absolutely phenomenal,” he says. “Waterford has everything, in terms of landscape. But every county needs a hook to draw people in. Now we have one. It’s a game changer for Waterford.” I had assumed that it would be mostly cyclists along the Greenway but as I cover the first few kilometres, I’m joined by more on two feet than on two wheels, from those pounding the tarmac in a fierce sprint, to a few auld fellas out for an early morning stroll. “Burning off the rashers!” calls one, as I ping my bell to pass him by.

Opening pages, left, one of the many beautiful sculptures to be found on the grounds at Fairbrook House; opposite, the final descent into Dungarvan. Clockwise from top, a scent of summer; Dungarvan’s seaside aspect; making friends along the way.


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WATERFORD GREENWAY

I’d been warned that the first part of the route isn’t as scenic as the final section, but its understated charm is all the more beguiling. The side of the path is blanketed in tangled clusters of dog daisies, tall foxgloves and those stickyback weeds we used to whip at each other on the playground. Glossy buttercups grow in gangs and I feel the urge to pull over and hold one underneath my chin. Just as my legs start to tire and my brain withers without caffeine, I pull into the first stop. A vintage train carriage sits off the tracks at the Waterford & Suir Valley Railway (wsvrailway.ie), serving tea, coffee and cake. I sit outside with a decent Americano and am joined by Tom, another cyclist who has come from Waterford and cycles the route every week. He joins the leagues of those extolling the virtues of the route’s final ten kilometres. “That stretch from Durrow to the sea … it’ll take your breath away,” he says with a faraway look in his eyes. “Unless you’re brain dead!” And with that, he’s off. He turns back as he cycles away. “When you cycle into Dungarvan, you’ll think of me!” The number of places at which to stop and stretch the legs is a pleasant surprise. Just a few minutes up the track is Fairbrook House (fairbrook-house.com), with gorgeous tearooms and gardens, and a quirky collection of contemporary art on display.

Left, from top, there are many pretty pit stops along the Greenway; the perfect end to the day, fish ‘n’ chips from AndChips on the pier; Waterford’s viaducts make for beautiful views. Opposite, clockwise from top left: swathes of wild daisies line the Greenway; Zipp the dog taking in the scene; rest weary legs at Fairbrook House; cocktail with a view at Cliff House Hotel. Following page, a traffic jam; the Greenway’s eponymous tipple.


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spider webs, trickling droplets of water and burgeoning stalactites. At the other end, towering walls thick with ferns and moss create a Jurassic gorge of sorts, leading to the next big ticket stop, the Ballyvoyle Viaduct. Destroyed during the Civil War and rebuilt in 1924, this stone bridge soars over the treetops of the forestry before weaving towards the first glimpse of the ocean. This tiny patch of sea soon opens out into the glorious expanse of Clonea Bay and, before long, I’m zooming along the Copper Coast, the sun bouncing off the waves as they bash against the black rocks lining the shore. On the approach to Dungarvan, as the smell of the sea fills the air, it feels almost anti-climactic. There’s no finish line, or even a discernible

This tiny patch of sea soon opens out into the glorious expanse of Clonea Bay and, before long, I’m zooming along the Copper Coast The Greenway traffic picks up after the halfway point at Kilmacthomas. There are more cyclists making the most of this unexpectedly sunny day, from the Lycraclad racers to the little kids pedalling like the clappers. When I reach the little village of Durrow, there are fair-weather cyclists out to bike the final ten kilometres. And as a good number of them are partaking in a precycle tipple on the picnic tables outside O’Mahony’s Pub, it would be rude not to join in. And ruder still to not choose a bottle of the Greenway Waterford Pale Ale, brewed in Dungarvan and the unofficial beer mascot of the route. From this point, the visual big hitters come into play, from the tall stone viaducts to the spookily lit Ballyvoyle Tunnel, its thick stone walls speckled with

landmark at which to commemorate my accomplishment. Instead, I head up the road to Ardmore and choose to mark my journey’s end at the Cliff House Hotel (see “Stay”, page 62), where I toast it with a glass of champagne as I stand on a balcony, looking out over the still waters of the bay. The bruise on my leg is changing colour as rapidly as the setting sun but that’s the only complaint I have.

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WATERFORD GREENWAY

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS MODERN CHIPPER When you’ve cycled the guts of 50 kilometres, you want to be sure of a hefty treat at the end. Enter AndChips in Dungarvan; home to the freshest fish in town, with a batter that cracks open with the swift smack of a fork. (Unit 3, Castle House, Davitts Quay, Dungarvan, 058 24498; andchips.ie)

STAY CITY BASE Only a few minutes’ cycle from the start of the Greenway, The Fitzwilton Hotel is the perfect base camp. It’s handy for exploring Waterford City, too, not least during the fifth annual Waterford Walls (waterfordwalls. ie), Ireland’s largest outdoor gallery of street art, August 22-25. Rooms from €110. (Bridge Street, 051 846 900; fitzwiltonhotel.ie) CLASSIC Tucked into the woodland outside Waterford, Faithlegg Hotel has gorgeous views over the Suir estuary and heritage-style rooms within an 18th-century mansion. There’s an 18-hole championship golf course on the grounds and a swimming pool. Rooms from €125. (Faithlegg, 051 382 000; faithlegg.com) SUPER LUXE With an endlessly captivating position right on the water’s edge, a spa you’ll want to move into and a Michelin-starred restaurant, the Cliff House Hotel is the perfect reward after a day of cycling. The rooms are all chic and comfy, with killer views of the sea to boot. Rooms from €350. (Middle Road, Ardmore, 024 87800; cliffhousehotel.ie)

SMART TIPS EAT CLASSIC An Irish favourite for more than 20 years, The Tannery is a celebration of the best in local produce, from fresh oysters to juicy pigeon with black pudding. The dining room is flooded with light, the wine menu that’s chock-full of impeccable bottles … it’s practically impossible to get a bad meal in this spot. (10 Quay Street, Dungarvan, 058 45420; tannery.ie)

PIT STOP Join the hordes of cyclists at Coach House Coffee, a cool café in a converted workhouse, with outdoor seating for sunny days. The menu is chock full of re-fuelling dishes, such as floury blaas stuffed with salty bacon and slippery avocado, above. The coffee is top notch, too. (The Workhouse, Kilmacthomas, 051 295 654; coachhousecoffee.ie)

BIKE HIRE Rent a bike in Waterford from Greenway Waterford Bike Hire (greenwaywaterfordbikehire.ie), €20. If you’d rather stick to the final stretch, rent from The Greenway Man (thegreenwayman.com) in Durrow, €15. PACK SMART You might scoff at the folk wearing padded shorts but you (and your bottom) won’t be laughing at the end of 46 kilometres. And even though the cycle is relatively flat and off-road, be sure to wear a helmet.


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ADVERTORIAL

CONTINUING THE JOURNEY Ireland’s National Marian Shrine celebrates the 140th Anniversary of the Knock Apparition.

K

nock, Co Mayo could easily claim to have one of the most interesting histories of any place in Ireland. In the 19th century, it was typical of villages dotted around the West of Ireland. But the story of Knock, as we know it today, began on the evening of August 21, 1879 when Our Lady appeared at the gable of the church in the company of St Joseph and St John the Evangelist. Fifteen local people gave their testimonies to an official Commission of Enquiry and their accounts were found to be trustworthy and satisfactory. For 140 years, visitors have come to Knock from all over the world. This year marks the 140th anniversary of

the Apparition and Knock Shrine proudly celebrates its rich history and enduring legacy. Countless numbers of pilgrims and visitors have been a part of the journey that has seen Ireland’s National Marian Shrine become an international pilgrimage destination. The theme for the celebrations is “Continuing Our Journey” and for those who visit, it is an opportunity to experience in person this special place. Set in more than 40 hectares of landscaped gardens, the impressive grounds frame the Apparition Chapel and Knock Basilica. When you cross the threshold and enter Knock Shrine, you leave behind

the worry and cares of a troubled world and join with your fellow visitors on a journey. Each person who comes to Knock has their own reason for making the journey, however long or short, to experience a unique and tranquil atmosphere. For some, Knock evokes childhood memories of family visits and a closeness to those who have gone before us. It is a reminder of the faith that has been passed down through generations. Some come searching for answers and consolation, others to reflect and find peace in this serene setting. One thing that is guaranteed is that you will leave Knock Shrine feeling refreshed and renewed.

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ew Jersey is often overlooked as a destination. I put this down to the infamous Jersey Turnpike, a vast six-lane motorway that links the great cities of Philadelphia and New York. This massive freeway cuts a course through a stark industrial landscape, which creates the unfair and misleading impression that New Jersey is best passed through on the way to somewhere else. But turn off the Turnpike, onto the quieter, greener, Garden State Parkway, and you’ll soon find a New Jersey that’s worth staying around for. I set my course for Cape May, a Victorian-era town that proudly claims to be America’s oldest seaside resort. This picture-perfect town of neatly painted timber houses had its heyday during the

JERSEY SHORE

steamboat era. Its unique position, set on a peninsula with the Atlantic on one side and the Delaware Bay on the other, allowed easy access by ship for visitors from both New York and Philadelphia. Today, the steamboats are gone but the magnificent hotels of the era are still an important part of the town. Tradition demands that I call by the Congress Hall Hotel (caperesorts.com). It’s America’s oldest seaside hotel, which during the course of the 1800s welcomed no fewer than four sitting US presidents as guests – including President Benjamin Harrison who created the first “Summer White House” there in 1891, by living in the hotel for four months while electricity was being installed in the genuine article in Washington. Walking through its broad corridors, I’m immediately struck by

Turn off the Turnpike, onto the quieter, greener, Garden State Parkway, and you’ll soon find a New Jersey that’s worth staying around for

Opening pages, life’s a beach at Asbury Park boardwalk and seafront. This page, clockwise from left, Tisha’s Fine Dining in downtown Cape May; the barn at Beach Plum Farm, a market with fresh food, coffee, and handmade goods; dapper dudes on Asbury Park boardwalk.


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JERSEY SHORE

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its old-world grandeur and can sense its presidential appeal. Today the Congress Hall is owned by Curtis Bashaw, who spent his teenage summers working in the hotel. I meet him at the Beach Plum Farm (beachplumfarmcapemay.com), a 25-hectare holding that’s dedicated to providing fresh local food to the hotel’s kitchens. Bashaw brings me around the farm before ushering me into a kitchen garden that is bursting with produce – where I’m surprised to see a team of waiters setting a long table, right in the middle of the vegetables. Bashaw explains that they are preparing for a special Farm to Table dinner, where every item on the plate has been grown or reared on site. My tummy is rumbling so I leave the team to prepare their banquet amongst the raised-beds, while I head towards the harbour in search of the one thing that can’t be found on the farm: fresh fish. Upon arriving at Utsch’s Marina, I can’t miss The Lobster House (thelobsterhouse. com), for its tables are literally set up on the dock, with boats bobbing gently in the background. Lunch here is a relaxed affair and I tuck into a lobster sandwich, while fishermen unload the catch from the trawlers moored beside me. Refreshed, I continue down the pier to the Cape May Whale Watch and Research Center (capemaywhalewatch.com), to board the American Star for a whale and dolphin watching expedition. Once upon a time, Cape May was a whaling town where whales were hunted and killed for their valuable blubber but now the whales are conserved – as onboard marine biologist Melissa Laurino

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Opposite, one of the dozens of exceptional Victorian homes in Cape May. This page, clockwise from top, sax appeal, an Asbury Park boardwalk busker; the herb garden at Beach Plum Farm; a vibrant barley and quinoa salad with pickled onions at the Blue Pig Tavern, Cape May. Next page, from top, boardwalk and beach in Asbury Park; fowl play, Curtis Bashaw at Beach Plum Farm. Following page, the quietly residential Ocean Street near downtown Cape May.


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explains. We meet our first pod of dolphins while still in Cape May harbour and the boat stops as Laurino gives us a full rundown of dolphin behaviour. They find their food through echolocation and, she says, this will help us in our quest to find whales, who often follow dolphins in the hope they’ll lead them to a food source. Leaving the resident dolphins behind, we ply our way into open ocean searching for fin whales and humpbacks. Several kilometres offshore, we spot more dolphins and a ripple of excitement goes through the boat as we set off in hot pursuit. Ultimately, it turns out they’re

travelling alone – no whales with them this time – but it’s a pleasant cruise and the expanse of blue sky and blue ocean is awe-inspiring, so when we return to dock without seeing any whales, nobody seems to mind. Leaving Cape May, I head up the Garden State Parkway towards the middle of the state. I’m eager to see Spring Lake, nicknamed “the Irish Riviera” due to its population of affluent Irish-Americans. It’s a pristine community, comprising big beautiful homes with manicured lawns, all centred on a park where a massive American flag is suspended majestically

Leaving Cape May, I head up the Garden State Parkway towards the middle of the state. I’m eager to see Spring Lake, nicknamed “the Irish Riviera” in the breeze – it’s the American Dream made real for many Irish emigrants, my grandmother’s sisters included. There’s a neat avenue of shops and cafés, including an Irish Shop, which my curiosity won’t let me pass. Here, I’m delighted to find biscuits and teabags sharing shelf space with embroidered Celtic blessings, crystal glass and woolly jumpers. That night I stay in Asbury Park, a gritty beach and boardwalk town made famous by an all-American boy named Bruce Springsteen. It’s home to The Stone Pony (stoneponyonline.com) – a modest beachfront bar that gave both Springsteen and Bon Jovi their starts. My hotel, The Asbury (see “Stay”, page 74), is just metres up from the beach, so early the next morning I walk the short distance to the shore to watch the sun rise. The horizon is touched with gold as the sun pulls itself out of the Atlantic, while a passing pod of dolphins intermittently skims the surface, causing barely a ripple. It’s simply spectacular – confirming there’s much more to New Jersey than just a highway.

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TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

EAT BYO Prohibitively expensive liquor licences have led to the development of some wonderful Bring Your Own restaurants, such as Brandl in Belmar. Tuck into fresh fish and seafood specials, prepared by chef Chris Brandl, and be sure to notice the unusual light fittings – beautiful boardwalk street lamps, salvaged from the Belmar beachfront after Hurricane Sandy. (703 Belmar Plaza, Belmar, +1 732 280 7501; brandlrestaurant.com) AMERICANA New Jersey is famed for its diners and the Asbury Lanes Diner offers a new take on the classics. Sink into the leatherette of a 1950s booth and enjoy a vegan burger and a boozy shake before hitting the adjoining Asbury Lanes for a gig or some bowling. (209 4th Ave, Asbury Park, +1 732 361 6659; asburylanes.com)

FARM TO FORK If you can’t swing a ticket for a Farm to Table event, you can still sample the best produce from Beach Plum Farm at The Ebbitt Room restaurant at the Virginia Hotel. Be sure to check out the devilled eggs, the restaurant’s signature starter. (25 Jackson St, Cape May, +1 609 884 5700; caperesorts.com)

STAY SOUTHERN CHARM Although New Jersey was a Yankee state, the town of Cape May actually lies south of the Mason-Dixon line. Experience some real old-world Southern hospitality at The Southern Mansion, a gloriously restored Civil War-era mansion. Rooms from $249. (720 Washington St, Cape May, +1 609 884 7171; southernmansion.com)

REVOLUTIONARY Named after a woman called Molly who carried pitchers of water to American soldiers at a nearby battlefield during the Revolutionary War, the Molly Pitcher Inn is an elegant hotel overlooking a picturesque marina on the Navesink river. The dining room faces the water and the hotel’s buffet brunch is consistently voted the best in New Jersey. Rooms from $195. (88 Riverside Avenue, Red Bank, +1 732 810 0313; themollypitcher.com) HIGH NOTES Part hotel, part chic social centre, The Asbury Hotel is a happening spot with live music in the lobby every night, a sky bar overlooking the ocean and the Baronet – a rooftop outdoor cinema, with the projector housed in an old beach lifeguard’s watchtower. Rooms from $275. (210 5th Avenue, Asbury Park, +1 732 774 7100; theasburyhotel.com)


In Ireland


10 SOJOURNS FOR SOLOISTS Leonie Corcoran finds friendly cities that are easy to get around and rich with distractions – ideal for the solo nomad.

1 VIENNA AUSTRIA

Vienna constantly ranks highly in “Most Liveable City” and “Personal Safety” lists, making bimbling around on your tod stress-free. It’s a culture-lover’s dream, with opera, ballet and theatre – The Sound of Music runs in September and October at the Vienna Volksoper (volksoper.at) – in abundance. Tickets are easier to secure when travelling solo so keep an eye also on the State Opera House (wiener-staatsoper.at). Another good thing about travelling around Vienna on your own means you don’t have to share strudels or Sachertorte with anyone else: dig in at the kitsch Café Prückel (prueckel.at) and stay at Hostel Ruthensteiner (hostelruthensteiner. com), which opened in 1968 and is known for its spontaneous music sessions. Beds from €26, rooms from €75. Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Vienna daily.


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An ever-evolving restaurant scene, world-renowned museums, picturesque canals and design-led boutiques ... Amsterdam has it all. Time your trip to visit the Van Gogh Museum (vangoghmuseum.nl) on the last Friday of every month, for experimental dance, music and theatre – the perfect introduction to the city. citizenM (citizenm.com) has three ’Dam properties, offering small but well-designed rooms with big windows, friendly staff and a 24/7 lounge made for mingling. Borrow a free bike to cycle into town through the many chic neighbourhoods. Rooms from €89. Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Amsterdam up to four times daily and from Cork ten times weekly.

2 TORONTO CANADA

Toronto is so friendly it even has its own Greeters Program (toronto.ca). Experience the city’s many vibrant neighbourhoods with locals who volunteer. Sport always provides common ground so find your tribe at an ice hockey, basketball, soccer or baseball game. Meet local gastronomes at L.U.S.T Supper Club (lukechef.com), run by young chef Luke Hayes, for a themed evening of food and chat in top-secret locations before heading for the well-located, eco-conscious Planet Traveler Hostel (theplanettraveler.com), which has a rooftop patio. Dorm beds from $38, rooms from $93. Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Toronto daily.

4 GAVI ITALY

Rest, recharge and rejuvenate in the Piedmont hills of Italy. Isn’t this what solo travel is really all about? On this luxury Ballet-lates and Pilates retreat, leave stress at home and calmly work on your fitness and flexibility while surrounded by beautiful scenery in the Locanda la Raia boutique hotel (locandalaraia.it). Dublin-based Pilates and Ballet-lates practitioner, Christie Seaver, leads four-day retreats, which include daily classes and is styled for each person – add spa treatments, wine tasting and cycling or simply enjoy the scenery (balletlates.net). October 2019 and May 2020 dates coming soon; rates from €1,150. Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Milan (Malpensa) twice daily.

PAINTING: VINCENT VAN GOGH (1853-1890) SUNFLOWERS, ARLES, JANUARY 1889/OIL ON CANVAS, 95-73 CM/VAN GOGH MUSEUM, AMSTERDAM (VINCENT VAN GOGH FOUNDATION)

3 AMSTERDAM NETHERLANDS


SOLO BREAKS

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6 BERLIN GERMANY As the 30th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall approaches – November 9 – the city celebrates with exhibitions, activities and, of course, parties. Cycle the Berlin Wall Trail with any of the app-operated, dockless cycle schemes (see berlin.de) or join a free walk that tells the tale of Oderberger Strasse, a former dead-end street expiring at the wall (email registration at berlin@hdg.de). Later, meet an artloving crowd at the Wallyard Concept Hostel (wallyard.de), which is bursting with quintessential Berlin attitude and vibe. Dorm beds from €22, rooms from €30. Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Berlin twice daily.

5 NEW YORK CITY USA

Easy to navigate and with endless sights, New York – though not the cheapest – is one of the most accessible solo travelling cities. For starters, it’s easier to get a seat at a restaurant or deli counter when you’re on your own, such as the ramen bars opposite the Tenement Museum (tenement.org). Visit Books are Magic in Brooklyn (booksaremagic.net) for an author’s talk or, if you’re missing Garfield at home, visit cat café Koneko (konekonyc.com), which has extra kudos for actively re-homing felines. Bed down later at the Ace Hotel (acehotel.com) in Midtown, which offers mini rooms, a restaurant and a lively lobby where creatives congregate. Rooms from $179. Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York (JFK) twice daily and from Shannon six times per week.

NEW YORK PHOTOGRAPH: DAVID WILLIAMS PHOTOGRAPHY/ MURAL BY TIM DIET

7 DUBROVNIK CROATIA

George Bernard Shaw advised those seeking paradise on Earth to head for Dubrovnik. And those seeking a Game of Thrones experience can follow the same advice. Treat yourself to an expert-led, two-hour GoT tour to the steps of the Walk of Shame (with your clothes on), sit on the Iron Throne and visit King’s Landing, from €66 (urbanadventures.com). Stay at Hostel Angelina Old Town (hostelangelinaoldtowndubrovnik. com) to lap up Medieval magic as the sun goes down and crowds depart. Dorm beds and rooms from €60. Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Dubrovnik daily and from Cork twice weekly.


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8 SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA SPAIN If you’re looking for organised group travel with some time for yourself, take to the saddle. Riding a horse along the well-paved pilgrimage trail of the Santiago de Compostela, Spain, means you are following in the hoofprints of kings and saints. Andalusian horses are renowned for their intelligence and sensitivity, not unlike our Connemara ponies. Bond with your steed by day and enjoy glasses of wine with the group by night. Seven-day packages, excluding fights, from €1,800. followthecamino.com Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Santiago de Compostela daily.

9 LISBON PORTUGAL Eating alone can be one of the trickiest parts of single travel but eating in Lisbon is never lonely. Grab a spot at a counter or communal table at Time Out Market (timeoutmarket.com) or in one of the many restaurants and bars in the LX Factory (lxfactory.com), a creative hub. Central neighbourhoods are easy to navigate on foot – or rent an electric scooter via the Lime app (Android and iOS) to avoid busy tramlines and explore the waterside. The converted palace of Independente Hostel & Suites (theindependente.pt) has dorms and suites with vintage touches throughout, plus a buzzy lounge and eatery, and staff intent on showing you Lisbon like a local. Dorm beds from €20, suites from €148. Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Lisbon 11 times per week and from Cork twice weekly.

10 LONDON UK The hardest thing about a solo trip to London is deciding in what neighbourhood to stay … then finding affordable accommodation. Head for Shoreditch in the East End, where galleries, markets, street art and street food can only inspire. Join Run Dem Crew (rundemcrew.com), founded by DJ, poet and writer Charlie Dark, for a nightly sprint/ jog to meet new people and exchange ideas. As for resting your feet, Z Shoreditch (thezhotels.com) offers everything you need for an urban getaway, with rooms from £50. Aer Lingus flies from Dublin, Cork, Shannon and Belfast to London multiple times daily.


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BABY ON BOARD A road trip may seem like an unlikely first family holiday but travelling in a converted van proves the perfect way to experience Portugal’s wild west coast. WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS NATHALIE MARQUEZ COURTNEY


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f you’d asked me to describe my idea of family holiday bliss, I probably wouldn’t have said it was cooking a prawn pasta dinner out of the back of a van in the middle of a deserted forest. But here we are. And spoiler alert: it actually is bliss. It’s our first night with “Elia”; from the outside, she looks like your typical white transit van. But she has been lovingly converted into a bona fide home on wheels, complete with a comfy, queensized bed, gas stove, pots, pans and some impressively sharp kitchen knives. I take in the scene, straight out of a #vanlife Instagram post: husband boiling water for spaghetti. Baby contentedly crawling around on a picnic mat. And me, photographing everything in sight – it is sunset after all and a warm amber glow has coated every twig, every pine cone, every blade of swishy dune grass in this beautiful cork forest right by the ocean. It’s hard to believe we are less than an hour away from the tiles, traffic and tourists of Lisbon city. A van road trip is, perhaps surprisingly, one of the easiest first family holidays: complete flexibility to work around your baby’s naps, a large luggage allowance and no pesky check-out time to scramble for. Normally, just getting out of the house is a struggle. Nappy bag? Check. Baby carrier? Check. Hat, blanket, bibs, teether – oh and a spare top, just in case … With the van,

With the van, everything we need is right here, all the time, neatly tucked away in one of Elia’s many compartments everything we need is right here, all the time, neatly tucked away in one of Elia’s many compartments. As a new parent, the peace of mind that comes with knowing that you haven’t forgotten anything and that a handy place to feed, change and nap your baby is mere steps away at all times brings its own kind of delight. It feels liberating and opens up so many possibilities, making planning a varietypacked trip so much easier. It helps that Elia is expertly kitted out with all the essentials, but also lots of thoughtful touches: a Bluetooth speaker, USB ports, wine-bottle stoppers, a long-lasting cool box and, of course, snazzy tropical wallpaper. In short, there are just enough modern amenities to make you feel at home.

One of our first drives brings us to Portugal’s Serra da Arrábida Natural Park. Undulating roads cut through a 100 sq km swathe of lush forests and rocky peaks, the beaches at their base shimmering enticingly in the sun. It is vivid, vibrant and very much alive. We regularly stop to take in the views, spotting beetles, butterflies, snakes and, at one point, two wild boars. Figueirinha and Creiro beaches are the most accessible in the area and come with paid parking, toilet facilities and a café or restaurant. Others, such as Ribeira do Cavalo, require a little more work – hiking down a dirt track or walking for a kilometre or two. The rewards are glorious: neardeserted golden strands that wouldn’t look out of place in the Caribbean.

Opening pages, left, road trippers at Cabo Espichel, on the Setúbal peninsula; right, Ben Marquez Keenan introduces his son Ari to the sea at Carvalhal beach. This page, top, Nathalie and Ari walking through a cork forest; above, a rearview mirror view of Cabo Espichel Lighthouse.


LISBON

Later that evening, we drive to the south-western tip of the park, towards the jagged, windswept cliffs of Cabo Espichel and its impressive 18th-century lighthouse. According to a centuries-old local legend, fishermen saw a vision of the Virgin Mary rising out of the sea riding a giant mule up the side of the vertiginous cliffs. There are indeed visible footprints on the near vertical cliff face but, much to our excitement, it turns out they are well-preserved dinosaur footprints, dating back to both the late Jurassic and Cretaceous period. As the light slowly drains away after our prawn supper, we bed in for the night. Sliding open the van doors the following morning, while still in bed, and taking in the majestic forest view – so crisp and clear it could be an advert for 8K TVs – is pure magic. Our next stop is the seaside town of Sesimbra, which, along with Setúbal, bookends the park. We wander around, taking in the thronged tascas, pretty tiled buildings and buzzy seaside promenade, giggling at the novelty of getting to go from being completely alone, surrounded by nature, to tucking into a sardine lunch a

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mere 25 minutes’ later. Our son Ari is, at ten months, as inquisitive as they come so the new sensory adventures at each stop prove utterly delightful for him, whether it’s tentatively burying his toes in the sand, shaking pine cones found on the forest floor or grinning at waiters. We spend the night in Ecoparque do Outão, a cheap and cheerful campsite within the park (from €3.90; Rua do Outão, +351 265 423 890), indulging in hot showers. The next day, following a back-of-the-van breakfast of fruit, yoghurt and orange juice at a nearby beach, we head south. While the rough, ready and rustic appeal of life on the road is well documented, travelling by van also gives you affordable access to decidedly snazzier destinations. Areas that may have previously been out of budget are suddenly achievable, which is how we find ourselves in Comporta, in the heart of Portugal’s Alentejo region. Technically a town, Comporta has become shorthand for a hip collection of exclusive enclaves and designer villas about an hour south of Lisbon. A night here during the high season

Clockwise from left, the seaside promenade in the pretty resort town of Sesimbra; setting up for the night in the Viva a Vida camper van; cocktail hour at beachside restaurant, Sal.

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can cost upwards of €500, but a stay in a local car park, alongside a few other campervans? Totally free. You can save your money for slap-up seafood suppers by the sea, wine tastings or pretty objets d’art from one of the many chic boutiques inconspicuously housed in the town’s white-washed, blue-striped buildings. After some idle wandering and lustful window shopping, we devour choco frito, a local speciality of delicious, deep-fried cuttlefish at Pica Peixe (Avenida 18 de Dezembro 21A, +351 265 490 277), in the nearby town of Carvalhal before hitting the road again. Whilst trying to pinch and zoom into the route we’ve planned on Google Maps, we make a wrong turn as we leave and find ourselves on a dirt track right through some of the region’s famous rice fields – I giddily can’t believe my luck. Elegant storks fly overhead and every now and then you glimpse some of the striking holiday homes that lure the likes of Christian Louboutin to the area. Of course, there are the usual uncompromising complications that come with baby life but it doesn’t take us long to learn a few practical lessons: keep snacks in the cooler box so you never have to hurriedly prepare things from scratch; baby carriers are handier than buggies almost all the time and driving during naps is key. Depending on the age of your baby and the number of rests needed, you could cover quite a lot of ground this way. After just 48 hours with Elia, we marvel at how much we have managed to pack in and how fun and relaxed it has all been. Waking up to a new view every day (without having to haul any bags) feels like the ultimate luxury. Our tiny home on wheels is a forest cabin at night, beachside breakfast bar in the morning and chic seaside town retreat by lunch. The constraints force you to get creative, help you stay in the moment and lead to some genuinely authentic adventures. For once, the hype is real. Clockwise from top, Pego beach in Carvalhal; sunrise through the trees in Arrábida Natural Park; Carolina Campos Costa serving up at Bar Mar restaurant on Figueirinha beach. Following page, freshly grilled sardines at Tasca do Isaías, Sesimbra.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to LISBON 11 times per week and from Cork twice weekly.


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TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

EAT RUSTIC Dark and poky, but in the best possible way, the unassuming Tasca do Isaías is a prime place in which to squeeze yourself onto a tiny table and tuck into platters of sardines and catch of the day, served with hearty sides and washed down with tasty local wines. (741 Rua Cel Barreto 2, Sesimbra, +351 914 574 373) COOL & CASUAL There is no shortage of beachside restaurants in this part of the world but almost everyone you talk to recommends Sal – and with good reason. Friendly staff in colourful, striped T-shirts serve up moreish cocktails overlooking the beach. Specialties include squid ink rice, octopus salad and traditional, freshly grilled fish. Reservations are a must during high season. (Praia do

Pêgo, Carvalhal, +351 265 490 129; restaurantesal.pt) SHAREABLE Housed in a former stables, Cavalariça is one of Comporta’s newest – and coolest – restaurants. Chef Bruno Caseiro cut his teeth under renowned Portuguese chef Nuno Mendes in London and the market-driven menu of sharing plates is inspired by traditional regional dishes but served with a decidedly modern flair. (Rua do Secador 9, +351 930 451 879; cavalaricacomporta.com)

STAY ROAD READY Danish couple Lisa Gorioukhin and Simon Jæger ditched their jobs in Copenhagen to launch Portuguese van-rental company Viva a Vida. They have three vehicles in their fleet, of which

our Elia was one, each converted into simple, cute and cosy mobile homes. The pair spent a few years travelling around Portugal and their enthusiasm and passion is contagious. Along with their well-kitted-out vans, they generously share their tips, on-the-road tricks and a handy map of recommendations with every rental. From €70. (+351 964 391 951; vivaavida.pt)

SMART TIP Portugal is fairly laid-back when it comes to parking, even for camper vans and motor homes, but always make sure to adhere to local traffic laws and avoid parking on private land. The app park4night can be handy for finding vanfriendly spots. It features user reviews, pictures and accurate GPS coordinates.


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AND ALL THAT

JAZZ

New York’s best-dressed flock biannually to the Jazz Age Lawn Party, a riot of big bands, chorus girls and sartorial ingenuity. WORDS LUCY WHITE PHOTOGRAPHS ROSE CALLAHAN

I

n the 21st century, there aren’t many places where an impeccably dressed stranger might ask if you’d like to join him to dance the Charleston. But then few places are like the biannual Jazz Age Lawn Party on New York City’s Governors Island. You’d be forgiven for thinking that you’d arrived in a time machine … but flappers and flaming youths are transported by modern-day ferry from Manhattan’s southernmost tip to an impressively authentic timewarp instigated by musician and bandleader Michael Arenella. There are no feather boas and fringed microdresses here (so 1950s), nor spats and trilbies (so Bugsy Malone); only the most authentic outfits fastidiously assembled by those who simply want to party like it’s 1929. Blankets, picnic baskets, crockery and freshly-cut flowers bed the dappled lawn, while guys and dolls line up for vintage photography, wet shaves, cocktails and food trucks. Now in its 14th year, the second Lawn Party this summer is August 24-25 – these photographs were taken in June – while Gilded Age diehards will be alert for Arenella’s 2020 dates: the 100th anniversary of Prohibition. jazzagelawnparty.com


NEW YORK CITY

Collect Avios on your hotel bookings in New York or use your Aer Lingus partner credit card to collect Avios on your shopping. For info and AerClub registration, visit aerlingus.com/aerclub.

Borne back ceaselessly into the past ... previous page, Ariel Gold, Melody Cohen and Lauren Rossi rock sorbet shades. Opposite page, clockwise from far left, Steve Diatz is gazette ready; nautical by nature, Lauren and Chase Noble; Michael Arenella, frontman of the Dreamland Orchestra – and founder of the Jazz Age Lawn Party; peachy keen Raissa Bretana. This page, right, Andrew Yamato’s dapper details and below, burning up the dancefloor like it’s 1929.

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SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to NEW YORK JFK twice daily and from Shannon six times per week.

Clockwise from top, guys and dolls get into hold; barber Mike Haar, of Haar and Co, administers a wet shave; people watching here is the bee’s knees. Opposite, David Delucia gets his Gatsby on. Next page, shady lady Zoë Kasten, with friends Rachel Hess and Ariel Gold.


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TRAVEL ESSENTIALS STAY EMINENT A grand dame near the lamentable Times Square, The Chatwal is just the tonic for its frenetic Midtown location. Designed by leading architect Stanford White, the ritzy property opened in 1905 as lodgings for members of The Lambs Club, a thespian elite that included Irving Berlin and Charlie Chaplin. The Lambs are honoured with an eponymous, elegant restaurant, while high-spec guest rooms pay homage to a bygone era but with contemporary flourishes, such as heated loo seats in glittering marble bathrooms. Rooms from $494. (130 W 44th St, +1 212 764 6200; thechatwalny.com) SLEEK Also in Midtown, The Refinery was once a millinery factory during the founding of Manhattan’s Garment District. This heritage informs much of the 1912 property’s interior and graphic design, and also staff uniforms, which are smartly retro. Loft-style bedrooms are gleaming white, while similarly immaculate bathrooms are furnished with the niff du jour Le Labo Santal 33 goodies. The crowning glory is arguably its rooftop bar, which has a pleasing eyeful of that Art Deco wonder that is the Empire State Building. Rooms from $169. (63 W 38th St, +1 646 664 0310; refineryhotelnewyork.com) SPLENDID The Evelyn is the smaller sibling of The Edison – a Roaring Twenties icon itself – and great value. Interior design is deceptively understated, while groups can bunk up in shared dorms without compromising on style. The hotel’s name, incidentally, is a tribute to It Girl of the early 1900s, Evelyn Nesbit, who was groomed by the aforementioned Stanford White – who was later fatally shot by Nesbit’s husband, Harry Thaw. Doubles from $120. (7 E 27th St, +1 212 453 4040; theevelyn.com)

SOIRÉE ELEGANT Art Nouveau in style and substance, Augustine is the lovechild of feted restaurateur Keith McNally and the Michelin-award winning Austrian chef Markus Glocker. Klimt and Toulouse-Lautrec would surely approve, the menu a Viennese whirl of Gallic classics and American East Coast produce. Don’t leave without visiting

The Beekman hotel next door – feel your jaw hit the floor as your widening eyes ascend the opulent nine-storey atrium. (5 Beekman St, +1 212 375 0010; augustineny.com) BOHEMIAN The Red Room at KGB is an owner-run fleshpot of monthly absinthe tastings, live jazz, flash fiction, writing workshops, burlesque and boylesque. Once upon a time the mobster Lucky Luciano ran a speakeasy on the site, providing ample inspiration for the interiors that include furtive booths, scarlet drapes and brass and copper accents – not to mention a freestanding bathtub, sometimes stocked with giggle juice on ice. (85 E 4th St, +1 703 221 4587; redroomnyc.com) MARVELLOUS For a unique spin on the 1920s theme, visit Bar Moga, which raises a Silk Merchant (gin, lemon, shiso, grapefruit, Calpico, cardamom, rose) to the Moga, or

Modern Girl – the Japanese equivalent of the flapper. Prop up the bar for an eyewateringly-priced 18-year-old whiskey ($243) or pick from a pocket-friendly food menu of katsu and mini Kobe burgers (128 W Houston St, +1 929 399 5853; barmoga.com)

SMART TIPS HOTSY-TOTSY This summer’s second instalment of the Jazz Age Lawn Party is on August 24-25, noon until 6pm; tickets from $45 to $175, free for children. jazzagelawnparty.com SET SAIL Catch the ferry to Governors Island from Manhattan’s handsome Battery Maritime Building for a $3 round trip. Crossings are scheduled every half hour and take around 10-15 minutes. govisland.com


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6 IRISH SEASIDE ESCAPES

CHRIS HILL / ©TOURISM IRELAND

Shayna Sappington reveals this summer’s beachiest Irish holiday destinations.

1 DUNMORE EAST, CO WATERFORD This Viking village is partly known for its idyllic fishing spots. The panoramic bay also

has adventurous water sports, historical cliff walks and fresh seafood – Lemon Tree Café’s (lemontreecatering.ie) chalkboard special has yet to disappoint. Refresh with a watermelon salad or a tian of cucumber and crabmeat out on the sunny, open deck. Folk fans anticipate the Bluegrass Festival (August 22-25; discoverdunmore.com) – where Sarah Savoy and her band will headline with Cajun classics. Tip: take the scenic route from Cheekpoint to see castle ruins, smuggler’s cliffs and private coves.


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2 CURRACLOE, CO WEXFORD

3 COBH, CO CORK Named one of the 25 most beautiful small towns in Europe by Condé Nast Traveler this year, this Wild Atlantic

Way Wonder lies at the heart of Cork’s city harbour. The Titanic’s last port of call in 1912, Cobh’s past can be explored via the Titanic Experience (titanicexperiencecobh.ie), the Rebel Walking Tour (cobhrebelwalkingtours.com) and the heritage centre (cobhheritage.com), which tells the history of Irish emigration. For adventure, go on safari at Fota Wildlife Park (fotawildlife.ie) or the chance to test your wit in an escape room (escapadecobh.com). Refuel at the eco-friendly Seasalt Cobh (seasaltcobh.ie) for a phenomenal brunch experience – the menu changes weekly, vegan/vegetarian options are abundant and the orange and cardamom syrup cake is divine.

TOP: GORDON WYCHERLEY/ WEXFORD COUNTY COUNCIL. BOTTOM: GEORGE KARBUS PHOTOGRAPHY/ ©FAILTEIRELAND

Head southeast for the summer and you’ll find the perfect swimming spot at the Blue Flag Curracloe Beach. Soft sand and languid waves welcome families to relax, horseback-ride or fish onshore. Many flock here for summer camping, and one look at the night-time scatter of stars will tell you why. A visit to the Raven Nature Reserve (npws. ie) is a must too; the giant sand dune site is filled with rare and beautiful plants and animals that have disappeared from other parts of the world.


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4 PORTSTEWART, CO DERRY An ideal family getaway, Portstewart has guided dune walks, summer sandcastle competitions and an eponymous golf course, above (portstewartgc.co.uk). Make sure to bring a handy net for the children’s Butterfly Safari (August 10; nationaltrust.org.uk) and snaffle a knickerbocker glory from town stalwart Morelli’s (morellisofportstewart.co.uk). A boating tour from here of the Giant’s Causeway comes highly recommended, as does Harry’s Shack – a delicious beachfront café with fresh, healthy seafood to savour. Children will also find much to amuse at the Victorian port’s 33-jet fountain music and light show.


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SEASIDE ESCAPES

5 STRANDHILL, CO SLIGO Something of a wave haven, Strandhill is known for its expansive beach and gnarly waves, drawing

6 LAHINCH, CO CLARE Close to the Cliffs of Moher yet far from tourist traps, Lahinch is nestled in Liscannor Bay. Sunbathe on sandy shores or, for something more active, try your hand at golf on one of the area’s championship courses. Spend the morning brunching at The Cheese Press in nearby, upand-coming Ennistimon, and peruse its boutique shops. There’s also a delicious pint to be had at Pot Duggans (potduggans.com) after which, a trip to St Tola Goat Cheese farm (st-tola.ie) is highly recommended – sample creamy fromage and feed friendly goats. Barrtrá Seafood Restaurant (barrtra.com) is great too, for upscale dining with an ocean view.

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surfers from all over Europe (who sometimes teach newbies). Try paddle boarding, a kayak tour – or a tranquil seaweed bath at VOYA (voyaseaweedbaths.com). Foodies frequent The Venue (venuestrandhill.ie), for its medallions of monkfish and its Friday Steak Night, while Shell’s Café (shellscafe.com) promises a toothsome treat or a Buddha Breakfast Bowl on the terrace.


IRELAND’S RYDER CUP VENUE FEATURING Two Arnold Palmer designed Championship Golf Courses Walk in the Footsteps of Champions at the Home of the 2006 Ryder Cup, 2016 Dubai Duty Free Irish Open & 13 European Opens

For information on our golf experiences +353 (0) 1 601 7200 | sales@kclub.ie | www.kclub.ie The K Club, Straffan, Co. Kildare, Ireland


ADVERTORIAL

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AN ICON IN THE MAKING Revolutionising the way people work, Dublin’s Iconic Offices is set to deliver the world’s first WELL certified flexible workspace.

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conic Offices, Ireland’s leading indigenous flexible workspace provider, this month unveils a brand new, €3.5 million “Grade A” office in Dublin’s Central Business District. Located within close proximity of St Stephen’s Green, The Lennox Building is a premium proposition more akin to a five-star boutique hotel, and increases Iconic’s portfolio to 16 CBD sites. In the last 20 years, the modern office has undergone numerous evolutions. The early 2000s saw the demise of mass cubicles and the rise of open floorplans, while 2016 brought waves of football and ping pong tables to tech offices everywhere. Although office design trends come and go, one thing that won’t change is the impact the office environment has on employee health and wellbeing. With this in mind, The Lennox

ICONIC OFFICES

Building has upped the ante by signing up to The WELL Building Standard – specifically its WELL v2 certification system – to place the wellness and productivity of its members at the heart of its design. WELL v2 is the world’s first building standard that creates spaces in which people are happier, healthier and more efficient. Founder and CEO, Joe McGinley, explains: “We are always looking to improve and excel when it comes to our workspaces. Our 2019 properties are taking Iconic Offices product to another level, with The Lennox Building being unique in both function and design. The building will literally perform for its occupants, providing a comprehensive range of first-class amenities any business could require.” Spanning approximately 27,000 sq ft

T: +353 1 905 3508

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over five floors, this impressive property will house up to 350 workstations, premium private offices, co-working and meeting room spaces. Clients will also be supported by exceptional amenities, including a 2,000 sq ft outdoor rooftop terrace with expansive city views and facilities that provide yoga, Pilates and meditation classes. So whether you’re an individual freelancer or in a team of up to 350 employees, flexible terms are offered here for a minimum of one month.

E: SALES @ ICONICOFFICES.IE

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SILICON BEACH


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RIDING the TECH WAVE Silicon Beach, a true work-and-play destination, now rivals the tech sector hub of Silicon Valley, says Ross McDonagh.

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ow that everyone beneath CEO level is forced to live in campervans in Silicon Valley (okay, a slight exaggeration but you get the idea), a second tech capital of the US was necessary ... and Silicon Beach was born. Google, Facebook, YouTube, Sony, Snap Inc, Yahoo!, BuzzFeed, Electronic Arts, Hulu and Bird, are just some of the tech and tech-related companies that have major offices here. While the geographic definition varies (some consider it as Culver City, Beverly Hills and even Downtown LA – despite the dearth of sand), it generally encompasses the beachfront stretch from Malibu to Manhattan Beach, running through Santa Monica, Venice and Playa Vista en route, encompassing more than $150 billion worth of startups. The assimilation in some parts hasn’t always been smooth;

Snap re-located from Venice to Santa Monica amid pressure from locals over gentrification, and fears it would replace character with higher rents. (Snap continues sub-leasing its beachfront office space there to even more startups.) And who could forget the electric scooter wars of 2017? Either way, Silicon Beach boasts the double attraction of being a technology hub and a holiday destination. With the world’s fourth busiest airport plonked right in the middle of it, LAX is the one place you can answer “both” to that “business or pleasure?” question without compromising your integrity.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to Los Angeles daily.

GET SMART ARRIVALS LA was ground zero for e-scooter wars, with Bird, Lime, Spin, Uber and Lyft all zipping about the battlefield. But if you need to complete that “last mile” in a hurry through the city’s infamous traffic, try Wheels: little rentable e-bikes that come with much bigger wheels, a lower centre of gravity and a lower chance of eating pavement.

WHEN IN ROME … Burning the candle at both ends to end up hooked up to an IV drip used to be a pretty bad sign. Now you can schedule it. Do your burn-out and/or hangover a favour and book the IV Doc the night before the morning after: they’ll come to your hotel. There’s even specific jet lag, migraine and even food poisoning relief. theivdoc.com


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MANHATTAN BEACH POST PHOTOGRAPH BY RICK POON

EAT GRAZING At Manhattan Beach Post there is homespun fare with an artisan flair, made for sharing. Expect mouthmelting charcuterie and cheese selections – and it’s worth visiting for the signature bacon cheddar buttermilk biscuits alone, left. The perfect informal setting for entertaining a group of clients – although you may be too busy chowing down to chat. (1142 Manhattan Ave, Manhattan Beach, +1 310 545 5405; eatmbpost.com)

BOLD BITES The younger sibling of Gjelina, MTN serves Japanese-inspired izakaya and ramen in a rustic yet modern standalone building, made of reclaimed raw wood and steel, in Abbott Kinney. Ambience is set by spinning vinyl, low lighting and comforting smells of Nippon pub food and braised Wagyu. Try pork belly and squid chahan and MTN beef-wrapped enoki mushrooms. (1305 Abbot Kinney Blvd, Venice, +1 424 465 3313; mtnvenice.com)

FUN The Misfit serves SoCal swank, organic-style. Think jidori crispy chicken with fennel slaw or a seared ahi tuna burger with sriracha mayo for just $5 from the Bar Fly Lunch menu. Techy Silicon slingers can’t get enough of the lunchtime happy hour, and with wines at just $4 a glass, we can see why. An additional bonus is the joint’s location within Santa Monica’s iconic Art Deco clock tower. (225 Santa Monica Blvd, +1 310 656 9800; themisfitbar.com)


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SLEEP VIBING The Surfrider Malibu is a laid-back and friendly boutique spot with just 20 rooms, right on the Pacific Coast Highway, opposite Malibu pier. The cocktails on offer from the rooftop bar are on par with the vista, and both are reserved for guests alone. Who needs a pool when you have the Pacific Ocean right outside your room? Surf gear available to rent from the super chill staff. Rooms from $419. (23033 Pacific Coast Highway, Malibu, +1 310 526 6158; thesurfridermalibu.com)

URBANE If you’re after an idyllic beach setting outside the main touristy gravity wells of LA, but want access to a lively night scene too, then Manhattan Beach’s Shade should be your first and only stop. Enjoy the gorgeous rooftop pool and make sure you book a room with a whirlpool tub. PS The resident chef is so fabulous, his name is Graham Norton. Rooms from $369. (1221 N Valley Drive, Manhattan Beach, +1 310 546 4995; mb.shadehotel.com)

SERENE The quietest hotel on a peaceful stretch of the busiest beach avenue in Santa Monica, Oceana, a former apartment complex, is ideal for a long and luxe stay. A literal underhand stone’s lob from the sand, it only reopened in June after an extensive facelift, maintaining its old-school beachy feel with a newly immaculate veneer. Rooms from $486. (849 Ocean Ave, Santa Monica, +1 877 927 2128; hoteloceanasantamonica.com)


Creating Space FOR BUSINESS TO GROW Try out our newest coworking space in Cork City with a complimentary day pass. Just use the code Cork-Cara-19 glandore.ie | +353 (0)21 424 4100 | info@glandore.ie City Quarter, Lapps Quay, Cork


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such as New York. We currently have 15 locations, and more than 400 students, including some celebrity clients. Our plan for Petite Performers is to expand our franchises throughout the UK and USA. As far as managing staffing goes, we make sure to place talented and reliable teachers and managers in our locations. Emily oversees the UK franchisees and I oversee the USA’s. Do you purely teach or work with casting agents? The premise is to create a magical, safe, nurturing space to fall in love with dance and performing arts. However, from time to time we are approached by casting directors and industry professionals who are interested in working with our students. As a result, many students have worked in commercials, TV, film and theatre. What do you love most about the city? I love the healthy lifestyle and vibe Los Angeles offers, from food to fitness, there is something for everyone.

TINY DANCERS Michelle Cardno is owner and co-founder – with her twin sister Emily – of Petite Performers, a franchise of dance and theatre schools for six months to six years, with locations in Los Angeles, New York and London. How long have you lived in Los Angeles? I’m originally from the UK, just outside London, and am now living in Hancock Park, LA. I first came out in 2007 with a plan of just checking out a new city and staying for a couple of years. I ended up loving it so much that I went on to start my company, as well as meeting my now husband, here.

jobs such as dancing for Top of the Pops, Spirit of the Dance and Disney. That naturally progressed into teaching for other studios before setting up on our own in our respective cities (Emily is based in Chiswick, London). From a young age we both felt that was ultimately what we would love to end up doing.

How did you get involved in the industry? Emily and I grew up taking dance and performing arts classes. We then trained at the prestigious Bird College in London and went on to have performing careers for a few years professionally, including

How does it work operating a business on opposite sides of the pond? Emily and I meet in person a couple of times a year to work on business and creative development, such as programming and content ideas. Usually somewhere halfway,

What do you like to do here in your downtime? I love being able to finish up a busy week at the studio by heading to the beach and catching up with friends, or even taking a yoga class to reset. Emily runs the UK schools – how does doing business differ in the US and Europe? My sister and I have developed a business model and curriculum that can be replicated almost anywhere so, in fact, they are fairly similar. But one big difference is the school holidays. In the UK they have week-long breaks every five weeks or so, whereas in America we have fewer weeks off throughout the year – but a much longer summer break.

Fly to LOS ANGELES from Dublin for 75,000 Avios points*. Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, use those that you have and pay the rest in cash.

*AVIOS BASED ON PEAK BUSINESS TRAVEL, ONE-WAY

BUSINESS INSIDER

Where do you like to take clients? Our clients are mostly little humans but when we have collaborations with our writers and creatives, Soho House (sohohouse. com) is a wonderful place for that, be it in Los Angeles, New York or London.


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PREMIUM SERVICES & AMENITIES TO RESIDENTS INCLUDE:

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GRAND CANAL DOCK, DUBLIN 2

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A DAY IN THE LIFE Katie Ann McGuigan is a Londonbased Irish fashion designer whose brand offers high-end ready-to-wear in bold prints and graphic silhouettes. Her most recent collection, shown during her London Fashion Week presentation, is on show at Dublin’s Brown Thomas CREATE 2019, an annual in-store showcase celebrating Ireland’s most exciting design talent. 7am I’m not really a morning person, but I love to start the day early. It begins by taking my dog, Blue, to the park so he can have a good run – it’s a good way for us both to get our fix of fresh air before a day in the studio. I’ve had Blue for a year and a half now. I live in a London flat with no garden so our mornings in the park are really important for both of us. 8.15am I really enjoy getting into the studio early, before any staff arrive, as it gives me a bit of extra time to have a strong cup of coffee, a bowl of porridge and put a plan together for the day. 9.30am Staff arrive and I delegate different tasks to ensure that everyone is on the same track and it’s clear what has to be done that day. As with anything done by hand, it’s very time consuming. We pattern cut, sew and print by hand, to ensure that everything is done to a very high standard. 11am I take Blue out for a walk again to make sure he is getting the exercise he needs and I’ll grab a coffee. If I have lots of emails to catch up on and paperwork to do, I’ll be on my laptop. Otherwise, I might be ordering fabrics, cutting or printing. Our studio has a lovely atmosphere, with huge windows, so there is loads of beautiful natural light shining in. 2.30pm I’ll usually have lunch around this time, while continuing to work through my emails, orders and paperwork. We will

I LOVE VISITIN G …

NEW YORK My brother runs his own bespoke furniture design business, Orior by Design, in Tribeca, so I’m often over visiting him. I love the energy and atmosphere in New York and I love visiting because it’s a nice contrast to London.

have finished some of the morning’s tasks by this stage, so I’ll delegate afternoon tasks. 4pm I look over any new styles that might need changes. It’s really important that I have the time to triple check that everything is right with the design, patterns, fit and prints before we cut the final garment. As my mum has always said, “measure twice and cut once”. 5.30pm Around this time, when the studio is quiet again, I will read any replies to emails that I sent out that morning. When you are running your own business, it’s so important to keep on top of things.

PARIS I visit Paris at least twice a year for the showrooms there, after our London Fashion Week presentations. It’s nice to get out of London and be inspired by everything that Paris has to offer. I especially love visiting galleries when I’m there.

7pm Usually I’m back home at this stage and sometimes I might continue my work from home. That could vary between cutting vinyl or doing research for the next collection. When you have your own business I think you’re always working. You never really switch off because you’re always thinking about what needs doing, or thinking up concepts and ideas for your next collection. 9pm If I’m lucky to find the time I might watch something before going to sleep. At the moment, I’m really into documentaries on sustainability and how small changes can make a huge difference. This inspires me to think about how I will implement these ideas in the studio where we try our best to reduce and recycle our waste.

DUBLIN I love coming home to visit, people are so warm and friendly. This year I’m so happy my work will be sold in Brown Thomas as part of CREATE: as an Irish designer, Brown Thomas is the ultimate store in which to have your work sold.


Get the right people behind you At William Fry, strong client relationships and quality legal and tax advice are the hallmarks of our inward investment business. Our client-focused service combines technical excellence with commercial awareness and a practical, constructive approach to business issues.

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S I L I C O N VA L L E Y


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HOTELS

WORK/PLAY IN LONDON

REFINE THE PITCH Break out and buckle down at Spaces, a co-working company with locations across the city. The Covent Garden one has all you could wish for: from white boards to hot desks to designer offices (with facilities for up to 12 people; at £540 per day). Just the ticket for brainstorming, blue-sky thinking and lightbulb moments. spacesworks.com

WILDE SIDE Eoin Higgins finds a game-changing business accommodation option in London’s Covent Garden.

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mack-bang in the thick of it all!” Our cabbie extols the virtues of our location as we clamber out of the Hackney carriage and onto The Strand. “But it’s gonna be a hot one!” he warns, as his whispering (they all seem to be hybrids now) black chariot slinks back into London traffic. We are here to spend two nights in the city as part of a work/leisure break. It’s high summer and the heat is certainly on, only slightly mitigated by an intermittent breeze. A seamless check-in sees us whizzing our way up to the seventh floor of Wilde Aparthotels by Staycity’s first outpost in London’s Covent Garden. The elevated studio is cool, air-conditioned to a tee and with nice views over north London – the midcentury BT tower a retro centrepiece. Design-led, with funky Irish flourishes throughout – its founder and

CEO Tom Walsh is Irish – the studio is also a masterclass in the efficient use of space. A compact kitchen – with mintgreen Smeg toaster and kettle – is set cleverly into a tall oak unit that is also a nifty pull-out desk, large enough to set up a modest office. Between jaunts to and from meetings, or saunters around Covent Garden, the room proves to be a practical and stylish haven in which to work and/or escape from the heat and the hub-bub. While friendly and courteous, staff interruptions are kept to a minimum throughout – welcome respite in an age of diminishing privacy – and there’s even a complimentary smartphone in the room, with free international calls and unlimited data to tap and swipe away at to your heart’s content … all of which makes a stay in London for business, and pleasure, a breeze. Rooms from £159. staycity.com

WOO THE CLIENT The private dining room at 10 Greek Street is an understated, elegant space. Staff are helpful and genial, with an eye for detail. As for the food, with British, Med’ and Middle Eastern flavours, there is something in chef Cameron Emirali’s tasty range to suit all palates. A nice Sunday lunch spot too, ideal for a post-workingweek wind-down. 10greekstreet.com

TOAST THE WIN Treat the team to snazzy cocktails at the Savoy hotel’s American Bar. Join pianist Jon Nickoll as he croons through the classics, while the drinks menu mirrors the music – each cocktail playfully referring to the songs on offer. Order a round of “Sun”, based on George Harrison’s uplifting tune, and shining with zingy, celebratory flavour. thesavoylondon.com


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6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT Lory Kehoe is the managing director of ConsenSys in Ireland, the country’s largest blockchain company, and has led strategy and implementation projects for corporates and governments around the globe. He also teaches as an adjunct assistant professor on MBA and masters programmes with the Business School in Trinity College Dublin and, in his spare time, is an avid surfer, reader and travel enthusiast.

1 BACK YOURSELF If you say something, then do it. Simple. There is a great book called The Art of Deliberate Success by a mentor of mine and great Cork man, Dr David Keane. David gave me my first career opportunity, which in many ways changed my life and I am eternally grateful for it. Although easier said than done, finding your niche and holding real enthusiasm for it will influence any team you lead. Don’t be afraid to commit to something. 2 “WHAT WOULD YOU DO IF YOU WERE ME?” When a team member asks me for guidance, my first response is always: “What would you do if you were me?” This is a disarming, respectful and engaging technique, as it means listening to the person’s proposal, demonstrating that you value their input and also helps them to not only think about their own viewpoint but those of others’ and the implications.

3 LEAD FROM THE BACK This is one area where I’m still learning. It reminds me of Steven Covey’s fourth habit of highly effective people: “Seek first to understand, then to be understood”. You need to and must empower those around you. Create opportunities for others to shine. If you have hired the right people – critical, by the way – then you have to trust them. 4 COMPOSURE The more senior you become in life, sport or work, the more people are looking to you for guidance. A former boss of mine pointed that out to me a number of years ago and it really resonated (all I was thinking about then was me). If you let your emotions prevail instead of logical thought and rational decision making, not only will you most likely make poor decisions but others will adopt the same approach and, in turn, it will lead to more poor decisions being made.

5 KNOW WHEN TO LEAD FROM THE FRONT There will be times when things are not going right and you will need to step in to provide cover for other team members. These are the moments that people recall more than others. Another one of my principles is to make a concerted effort never to ask someone to take on a task that I wouldn’t do myself and to set the tone, regardless of the task – like emptying the office dishwasher. 6 REFLECT As Ray Dalio says, “bad times plus good reflections equal great lessons”. Taking time out to think about life, relationships, work, whatever, is absolutely critical. You see things through a different lens, look at things in a more logical way, see the bigger picture and it enables you to identify and focus on what is really important. And finally, don’t ever forget to say thank you daily.

LORY’S SMART CITY NEW YORK DESTINATION New York is my favourite city in the New World. My brother lives in Brooklyn and ConsenSys’ HQ is based in Bushwick, so I am fortunate to spend time there a few times a year. New York has an energy like no other city I have ever been to. It’s addictive.

EAT I ate at The Mercer Kitchen on Prince Street in SoHo on my last visit and had one of the best salads of my life. Yes, I said salad! The restaurant has a great vibe with a really cool and tasteful interior and is perfect for client entertainment. themercerkitchen.com

STAY 1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge has it all for me. The views of the Brooklyn Bridge, the Statue of Liberty and Downtown Manhattan from the rooftop bar are my “happy places”. Always helpful team members, a good gym and an amazing scent make it a must-stay spot. 1hotels.com


LOUGH RUSHEEN, BARNA ROAD, GALWAY

An exquisite residence commanding unspoilt views across Rusheen Bay and The Atlantic Ocean. Lough Rusheen offers a rare combination of a 457 sq m / 4,919 sq ft residence on a 9.51 hectare / 23.5 acre totally private and stunning parkland site with approx. 600m of sea frontage onto Rusheen Bay, yet all within Galway City. Beautifully maintained, the house is a mixture of old and new; a contemporary build has been added to an older house to now provide a 5 bedroom family home, including separate guest accommodation. Privately sheltered by its extraordinarily generous grounds laid out in a mixture of structured gardens, mature woods, an area designated as special area of conservation for habitat protection, and a large paddock. A haven of peace and tranquillity in a naturally beautiful setting in one of Ireland’s most exciting and vibrant cities Galway. Asking Price: ₏2,900,000 CONTACT:

Philip Guckian +353 (0)1 237 6308 philip.guckian@sherryfitz.ie sherryfitz.ie

BER No. 111291969. PSRA No. 002183.

Tony Kavanagh +353 (0)91 569 123 tony.kavanagh@sherryfitz.ie sherryfitz.ie


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Box office hits Settle in and enjoy some of the latest Hollywood blockbusters.

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112 mins

Dumbo A young elephant helps to save a struggling circus. Stars Colin Farrell, Michael Keaton, Danny DeVito, Eva Green EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Adventure

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96 mins

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A Dog’s Way Home

Alita: Battle Angel

Aquaman

A female cyborg goes on a quest to find out who she is. Stars Lana Condor, Jennifer Connelly, Eiza González

A war between the worlds of ocean and land is on the horizon. Stars Jason Momoa, Amber Heard, Willem Dafoe

Avengers: Endgame

Breakthrough

A dog travels 400 miles in search of her owner. Stars Ashley Judd, Jonah Hauer-King, Edward James Olmos

The climatic end to the epic Avenger’s journey. Stars Brie Larson, Scarlett Johansson, Karen Gillan

A boy comes back to life after drowning in Lake St Louis. Stars Topher Grace, Chrissy Metz, Marcel Ruiz

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Captain Marvel

Fighting with My Family

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Isn’t it Romantic

Earth is caught in a war between two alien races. Stars Brie Larson, Samuel L Jackson, Ben Mendelsohn

A story of a family who fight a little differently. Stars Dwayne Johnson, Lena Headey, Florence Pugh

Tracking a disturbed man who has 24 personalities. Stars James McAvoy, Bruce Willis, Samuel L Jackson

Hellboy battles an ancient sorceress bent on revenge. Stars David Harbour, Ian McShane, Milla Jovovich

Natalie discovers her life has become a romantic comedy. Stars Rebel Wilson, Liam Hemsworth, Adam Devine

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Nancy Drew and the Hidden Staircase

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Pet Sematary

Shazam!

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The Curse of La Llorona

Nancy investigates the ghostly activity at a nearby mansion. Stars Sophia Lillis, Zoe Renee

A family discovers an ancient burial ground in their home. Stars Jason Clarke, Amy Seimetz, John Lithgow

A streetwise kid discovers he can change into a super hero. Stars Zachary Levi, Mark Strong, Asher Angel

A British couple are sent to live in Hamburg in post WW2. Stars Keira Knightley, Alexander Skarsgård, Jason Clarke

A mum and her kids are drawn into the supernatural realm. Stars Linda Cardellini, Patricia Velasquez, Raymond Cruz

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The Mule

The Upside

A war veteran turns drug mule for a Mexican cartel. Stars Bradley Cooper, Clint Eastwood, Manny Montana

The relationship between two men with differing backgrounds. Stars Kevin Hart, Bryan Cranston, Nicole Kidman

Explore the formative years of the author Tolkien. Stars Nicholas Hoult, Lily Collins, Colm Meaney

The Lego Movie 2: The Second Part Lego Duplo invaders threaten to wreak chaos. Voiced by Chris Pratt, Elizabeth Banks, Will Arnett

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All the classics R

Take a trip down movie memory lane with our great selection of classics.

Our animation film package will guarantee fun for all the family with classics including ‘Bambi’, ‘Peter Pan’ and ‘Beauty and the Beast’.

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AI Artificial Intelligence Stars Haley Joel Osment

American Sniper Stars Bradley Cooper, Sienna Miller

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300 Stars Gerard Butler, Lena Headey

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Can You Ever Forgive Me? Stars Melissa McCarthy

Casablanca Stars Humphrey Bogart, Ingrid Bergman

Chef Stars Jon Favreau, Robert Downey Jr

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Marvel e Univers

Sit back and enjoy our actionpacked Marvel Studios package. Starring some of your favourite Super Heroes such as ‘Captain America’, ‘Iron Man’ and ‘Thor’.

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© 2019 Disney

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Dunkirk Stars Fionn Whitehead, Barry Keoghan

East Side Sushi Stars Diana Elizabeth Torres, Yutaka Takeuchi

Empire of the Sun Stars Christian Bale, John Malkovich

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Far From the Madding Crowd Stars Carey Mulligan

Ghostbusters Stars Melissa McCarthy, Kristen Wiig

Horrible Bosses Stars Jason Bateman, Charlie Day

Journey’s End Stars Paul Bettany, Sam Claflin

Life of the Party Stars Melissa McCarthy, Debby Ryan

Mr Church Stars Eddie Murphy, Britt Robertson

Ready Player One Stars Olivia Cooke, Tye Sheridan

Sideways Stars Paul Giamatti, Thomas Haden Church

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PG13

154 mins

Spy Stars Melissa McCarthy, Rose Byrne, Jude Law

Tammy Stars Melissa McCarthy, Susan Sarandon

The BFG Stars Mark Rylance, Ruby Barnhill

The Color Purple Stars Danny Glover, Whoopi Goldberg

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE ES

EN FR DE ES

EN DE

PG13

119 mins

PG

124 mins

The Internship Stars Vince Vaughn, Owen Wilson

The Second Best Exotic Marigold Hotel Stars Maggie Smith

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

R

112 mins

G

100 mins

Three Kings Stars George Clooney, Mark Wahlberg

Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory Stars Gene Wilder

EN FR ES

EN FR ES

Irish movies and shorts Special feature

PG13

9 mins

PG13

16 mins

PG13

30 mins

PG13

89 mins

PG13

3 mins

PG13

83 mins

PG13

18 mins

PG13

25 mins

Algorithms Stars Alan Rogers, Lynn Larkin, Rob Ross

An Táin, Darkness Descends Stars Richard Wall

Detainment Stars Ely Solan, Leon Hughes

Katie Stars Katie Taylor

Listowel Radio Museum Stars Eddie Moylan

One Night in Dublin Stars Manny Aivo, Mei Bignall

Psychic Stars Brendan Gleeson, Brian Gleeson

The Family Way Stars Ciara O’Callaghan, Clara Harte

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN


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INFLIGHT

TV time Catch up on an old favourite or discover a new show. Business CNBC Conversation An in depth look at a public persona, featuring episodes with Rose McGowan, Ren Zhengfei and Martin Sorrel Managing Asia Royal Philips transforms under CEO Frans van Houten Marketing, Media, Money A behind the scenes look at Piguet handmade Swiss watches Secret Lives of the Super Rich Meet the super rich and learn how they live their lives

Kidzone Women on the Verge, S1, EP 1–6 Set in Dublin, Sharon Horgan’s ‘Women on the Verge’ tells the darkly comic tale of three career-driven friends in their 30s, who share the same nagging concern – that their lives seem to be moving out of their control. Stars Kerry Condon, Eileen Walsh.

LinkedIn Learning S1, EP 1–10 Learn how to make the most of your career with the LinkedIn Learning series. Join a variety of leading professionals as they discuss the common mistakes and the simple tips and tricks that you can learn to help you grow and succeed in your career.

Learn & discover

Sports

10 Things to Know About … Investigating one of the most complex ecosystems on Earth America Inside Out With Katie Couric Does new technology actually make our lives better? Blue Planet II ‘One Ocean’ goes on a journey to reveal new worlds Find Me a Home Three contrasting property markets It’s a Park’s Life A look at Dublin’s Phoenix Park One Strange Rock What makes planet Earth so special Pilgrimage: The Road to Santiago The team begin their journey in the French Pyrenees Science of Stupid How motorbikes and balancing things on your head can hurt! Star Talk Neil discusses the science behind science-fiction Whistleblower: The Maurice McCabe Story How the McCabe’s dealt with the aftermath of scandal

Clubland Explore premier football league clubs and their traditions Courtside A look into what it takes to compete at the highest level Epic Trails Follow Eric Hanson as he explores the world’s top trails The Fast Lane Explore the ups and downs that is F1 racing The Immortals Celebrate the careers of sport’s greatest icons Up Close With People at their top of their game share what drives them

Viral Alltime Movies A look at the ten best Netflix movies and subtle CGI Dainty Diaries A DIY way to make pom pom cushions and vases DramaticMac A drugstore, everyday make up tutorial Robin James Robin compares cheap and expensive high street products TRY Irish people try Jack Daniels, Mexican snacks and riddles WhispersRed ASMR Relax and listen to the soothing sounds of Emma’s ASMR

Daniel Tiger’s Neighbourhood It's Daniel’s birthday and he’s excited for birthday cake! Earth to Luna! Luna and her little brother love science and nature Giving Tales Classic fairy tales by Hans Christian Andersen Justice League Unlimited Wonder Woman fights the Legion of Doom to save the day Marvel’s Guardians of the Galaxy The residents of Planetoid are turned into zombies Scooby-Doo! Mystery Incorporated A hideous creature is turning children into monsters SpongeBob SquarePants Squidward tries to prevent Spongebob coming near his home

22 Live Ireland’s newest music show, with live performances About Last Night Ireland’s top clubs, festivals and gigs. Ariana Grande: Live In London Songs from her album ‘Sweetener’ Find it, Cook it! Ireland’s culinary delights Rock Legends: Elton John The fascinating career of Elton John The Great British Bake Off Biscuit baking with a British twist The History of Comedy Humour in everyday experiences U2: Live In London U2 play in the famous Abbey Road Studios Video Killed the Radio Star The musical impact of Prince

Ageless Gardens Gardens and their role in healthy ageing In My Mind Breaking down the stigma around mental health Raising Children Journey through parenting dilemmas and solutions Style for Men Learn the secret tips and tricks of style for men Upscale with Prentice Penny Penny puts her upscaling talents to work at a bar What’s Really in our Food? De-mystifying the science behind the food we eat

Laugh out loud

Real life

Wish you were here

Friends Follow the lives of six friends living in Manhattan Modern Family Three families face the trials of modern living Mom A single mom restarts her life while dealing with her own mom New Girl Jess moves into an apartment with three single men The Last Man on Earth After humans are wiped out, Phil finally gets some company This Time with Alan Partridge Alan is handed a career lifeline and only chaos ensues Young Sheldon Meet a child genius named Sheldon Cooper and his family

Close Up The story and glamour of Hollywood’s favourite stars Cook, Eat, Burn Donal prepares healthy foods Frock Finders Picking the right dress for the right moment Louis Theroux’s Altered States The traditional model of marriage New Orleans: City of Stories New Orleans artists and musicians Tastes Like Home Fulvio talks to people who have family abroad The Story of Us with Morgan Freeman The concept of freedom Top Gear The hosts head to Norway in the newest estate cars Tracks and Trails Glengarriff Nature Reserve in Cork Whiskey Business The Teeling brothers distillery business

Best of Irish Castles Explore Ireland’s most magnificent castles Drive Australia’s Great Ocean Road Uncover hidden spots on Australia’s Great Ocean Road Introducing Madrid Discover all that the city of Madrid has to offer Introducing New York City Discover the top things to do while in the Big Apple Just back from: Toronto & the Niagara Peninsula Gain an in-depth look at Toronto and the Niagara Peninsula Lisbon’s Most Delicious Custard Tarts Discover the best custard tarts that Portugal has to offer

Music & arts

Wellbeing


Enjoy a FREE night tour with all Classic tickets. Simply say BigFlight19 when purchasing your tickets. Speak to a member of staff at stops or buy from your driver bigbustours.com / infodublin@bigbustours.com

Classic with Free Night Tour will be offered by uniformed members of Big Bus staff only at stops or on bus and only when the discount code is given. Promotion cannot be redeemed through any other channel including online purchase or Big Bus partners. No other discount can be combined with the offer.


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INFLIGHT

Binge watching Because there’s no better time for a binge watch. Take a look at our latest boxsets.

Doctor Who Season 11 PG Throughout this series the Doctor and the gang embark on exciting adventures throughout space and time. Among their travels, they visit Alabama in 1955, meeting Rosa Parks, go to Punjab in the year 1947; and to Lancashire in 1612, getting involved in a witch trial.

Game of Thrones Season 1 R

The Handmaid’s Tale Season 2 R

Experience the first season of this visionary HBO series set in a mythical world whose inhabitants vie for control of the Iron Throne. But in a land where seasons can last a lifetime, winter is coming.

The Emmy-winning drama series returns with a second season shaped by Offred’s pregnancy and her ongoing fight to free her future child from the dystopian horrors of Gilead.

Love/Hate Season 1 R

The Marvelous Mrs Maisel Season 1 PG13

The story of an organised crime scene of Dublin is revealed, centred on Darren, who wants to stay out of trouble but ends up returning to his old habits and his old gang.

Miriam ‘Midge’ Maisel has everything she’s ever wanted – the perfect husband, two kids, and an elegant Upper West Side apartment. But her perfect life suddenly takes an unexpected turn forever.

Supernatural Season 13 PG13

The Sinner Season 2 R

Lucifer returns with surprising news: the devil is expecting a child. Now, Sam and Dean must tackle this complex situation, dealing with a creature of extraordinary powers.

Detective Harry Ambrose goes back to his hometown to investigate the murder of a couple by their 11-year-old son. As he tries to figure out why, it becomes clear that the town is hiding some secrets.

The Flash Season 4 PG13 With The Flash voluntarily in prison, Iris leads a discouraged Team Flash in protecting Central City. However, a new villain threatens to destroy the city if the Flash doesn’t fight him.

True Detective Season 3 R Retired detective Wayne Hays, who originally investigated a crime, is asked to look back on the twists of the unsolved case with a true-crime documentary producer.


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INFLIGHT

Audio Relax to your favourite tunes, make a playlist or delve into a new podcast.

Solange ‘When I Get Home’ is unhurried, ambient and exploratory, exploring several musical genres – including spiritual jazz – and with collaborators including Gucci Mane and Sampha.

Classical

Kidzone

Sound Out Ian McGlynn, RTÉ Lyric FM The Blue of the Night RTÉ Lyric FM

CAKE Culture and Arts for Kids and Everyone

Rock

Easy listening

Marty Miller Radio Nova

An hour long compilation of easy listening songs from Fitzpatrick Hotels

Talk

Indie Lost in Music Louise Duffy, Today FM

Irish Ceol na nGael Seán Ó hÉanaigh, RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta Irish Pulse Compilation of Irish artists Sinéad ar Bord Traditional and contemporary tracks in the Irish language

Pop Pop Charts Compilation of favourite pop songs Gold in the Sky Karl Tsigdinos, RTÉ Gold Late Date RTÉ Radio 1’s Late Date with Cathal Murray The Hotmix Rebecca Shekleton, 98FM Tracy Clifford RTÉ 2FM

Best of Moncrieff Seán Moncrieff, Newstalk RTÉ Radio 1 Documentary on One We offer two documentaries on this flight. The first tells the story of Van Morrison’s seminal album from 1968, ‘Astral Weeks’; the second, of Kildare man Michael Roe, who was one of the fastest racing car drivers in the world during the 1980s.

Megan Trainor ‘The Love Train’ is Megan Trainor’s second EP and was released soon after her wedding. Trainor’s vocals are equally powerful and passionate and this EP is filled to the brim with romantic heartfelt numbers like ‘Marry Me’; and tracks to dance to, like ‘All the Ways’.

Podcast Erin’s Isle Meet the Galway Hookers Erin’s Isle Gaelic Golf; How to Hit a Hole in One Erin’s Isle Stargazers’ Delight Erin’s Isle Living Legends

Podcast: Erin’s Isle Featuring a series of podcasts about Ireland. Learn about the country’s golf courses and meet some of its legendary people.


INFLIGHT

133

The Script ‘Science and Faith’ is one of The Script’s most well-known albums and deservedly so. It is designed to be equally at home in a stadium sing-along or to have in the background with friends. The album is a mixture of pop, hip-hop and rock, ‘Science and Faith’ has tracks for every mood.

All-time Favourites

Country

Jazz

Pop

KidZone

Aretha Franklin The Very Best of

Brooks & Dunn Reboot Carlton Anderson Carlton Anderson Maren Morris Girl Mitchell Tenpenny Telling All My Secrets Ryan Hurd To a T Ward Thomas Restless Minds

Branford Marsalis Quartet The Secret Between the Shadow and the Soul David Orlowsky Trio One Last Night – Live at Elbphilharmonie Django Reinhardt Djangology Rebekka Bakken Things You Leave Behind Weather Report Mysterious Traveller

Backstreet Boys DNA Lennon Stella Love, Me Meghan Trainor The Love Train Rak-Su Rome Tom Odell Jubilee Road Tom Walker What a Time to Be Alive

Captain Allen Swift Popeye’s Favorite Sea Shanties and Other Songs Charles Grean ‘The Unicorn’ and Other Favorites for Growing Boys and Girls Charles Grean Songs from Walt Disney's ‘Jungle Book’ Dora The Explorer We Did It! Dora’s Greatest Hits Spongebob Squarepants Spongebob’s Greatest Hits The Richard Wolfe Children’s Chorus Yellow Submarine and Other Big Hits for Little People

Bob Dylan The Freewheelin’ Bob Dylan Dean Martin My Woman, My Woman, My Wife Muddy Waters Hard Again Robert Johnson King of the Delta Blues Singers The Five Stairsteps The First Family of Soul: The Best of the Five Stairsteps

Alternative LCD Soundsystem Electric Lady Sessions St Lucia Acoustic Vol 1 The Neighbourhood The Neighbourhood Winnetka Bowling League Cloudy With a Chance of Sun

Classical Cameron Carpenter Rachmaninoff: Rhapsody on a Theme of Paganini & Poulenc: Organ Concerto Khatia Buniatishvili Schubert Roman Rofalski The Kapustin Project Teodor Currentzis Mahler: Symphony No 6 Yo-Yo Ma Salonen Cello Concertos

Electro Alan Walker Different World Groove Armada Groove Armada Greatest Hits Lost Frequencies Less is More Martin Garrix By Law Saint Etienne Smash the System Singles 1990-99 The Chainsmokers Sick Boy

Irish Dervish The Great Irish Songbook Christy Moore Listen Kodaline Politics of Living Shane Sullivan Little Steps The Script Science & Faith Triona Warrior

Metal Arch Enemy Covered in Blood Dream Theater Distance Over Time In Flames Come Clarity Krisiun Scourge of the Enthroned Ozzy Osbourne No More Tears Unearth Extinction(S)

Opera Anita Rachvelishvili Anita Howard Arman Rossini: Stabat Mater Maarten Engeltjes Forgotten Arias Regula Mühlemann Cleopatra – Baroque Arias Simone Kermes Mio Caro Handel

R ’n’ B HER I Used to Know Her: Part 2 Khalid Suncity Khalid Free Spirit Nao Saturn Solange When I Get Home VanJess Silk Canvas

Rock Bring me the Horizon Amo Bruce Springsteen Springsteen on Broadway Elvis Presley The Best of The ’68 Comeback Special Nothing But Thieves What Did You Think When You Made Me This Way? Sundara Karma Ulfilas’ Alphabet The Unlikely Candidates Danger to Myself


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INFLIGHT

Your comfort and safety Your comfort and safety is our number one priority at all times. Our crew are on hand to look after you and any requirements you may having during your flight. We do ask that we have your attention during our safety announcements. Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable: Keep moving: On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs. Drink up: Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.

Ear care: Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat with our cabin crew. Time zones: Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster.

We ask for your attention during the safety demonstration by our cabin crew before take-off. We also recommend that you familiarise yourself with the safety card in the seat pocket in front of you.

We have a strict no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board. You cannot smoke in any part of the cabin.

General safety tips for your flight today • Do pay attention to any instructions given to you by our cabin crew. • Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment. • It is illegal to consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another guest, including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique. • Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a guest on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed.

Guest with wheelchair requirements

Assistance contact details

• Any behaviour or language towards other guests or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.

If you or a guest you’re flying with requires a wheelchair to reach or depart the plane, we’re here to help.

specialassistance@aerlingus.com

Use of photography on board today

Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays

• You’re very welcome to take photos or video of guests travelling in your party for your own personal use.

Simply get in touch with us at least 48 hours in advance of your trip, let us know your booking reference number and we’ll take care of this for you.

UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222

However: • Taking photographs or video of airline personnel, equipment or procedures is strictly prohibited on board. • Taking photographs or video of other guests on board without their express consent is prohibited.


MONAGHAN’S CASHMERE STORE Established 1960

“Ireland’s Leading Cashmere Store” Frommers Travel Guide

Tom & Suzanne Monaghan

M A trip to Dublin would not be complete without visiting Tom and Suzanne Monaghan in their store at 21 South Anne Street. Monaghan’s is famous for its cashmere selling a wide range of classic sweaters in the latest styles and colours for both men and women. As they celebrate 59 years Tom and Suzanne would personally love to meet you in-store and offer you an extra 10% discount in addition to your tax free rebate on your horizon tax free card for all non EU residents (terms and conditions apply) Monaghans Cashmere, 21 South Anne Street, Dublin 2, Phone: +353 (0)1 6794451

www.monaghanscashmere.ie


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INFLIGHT

Your comfort and safety Your portable electronic devices You’re very welcome to use portable electronic equipment on this flight, but to help keep you safe we ask that you follow our guidelines below.

Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices permitted inflight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, minidisk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other guests, audio devices should be used with a headset. If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before take-off. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.

Switch your device to flight mode or the flight safe setting during taxi, take-off and landing. If you’d like to use your phone during your flight, switch it to flight safe mode. If your device doesn’t have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight. After landing, when the cabin crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are welcome to use your phone – provided it’s within easy reach. It’s important that you stay seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew when we land.

Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and mini-disk recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.


138

INFLIGHT

About AerSpace With our new premium short-haul travel experience you get more space to work or relax because we’ll always leave the middle seat free. And with lounge access, Fast Track security and priority boarding you’ll breeze through the airport. Arrive at your best with AerSpace. AerSpace is launching on September 1 and is available to book now on aerlingus.com.

What benefits come with AerSpace? Dedicated seating, with the centre seat always empty

20kg check-in bag allowance

Fast track security access at Dublin Airport

Lounge access (where applicable)

Priority boarding

Dedicated overhead locker space for your bags

Complimentary food and beverages on board from our Bia menu

Subject to conditions & availability.


Get ready for take off around Dublin with the TFI Leap Visitor Card

The convenient public transport prepaid card for visitors to Dublin. 24 Hours

10

72 Hours

19

7 Days

.50

UNLIMITED TRAVEL

UNLIMITED TRAVEL

40

UNLIMITED TRAVEL

Includes Airlink Airport - Dublin return Available at Dublin airport and at selected agents in Dublin city centre. Ticket agents: Dublin Bus Information Desk (T1 Arrivals) Spar Shop (T2 Arrivals) WH Smith For more information, visit leapcard.ie


140

INFLIGHT

Flight connections Dublin and London Heathrow Airports Flight connections at Dublin Airport

Flight connections at T2 London Heathrow On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections.

YES

Follow signs for Flight Connections

Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections

NO

Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.

All other destinations

USA

USA

Follow signs for US Preclearance

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Réamh-Imréitach SAM U.S. Preclearance

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have. Here, you can collect your onwards boarding pass and check your next boarding gate and flight status

Which terminal are you flying from? For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.

Where are you flying to today?

Are your bags checked through to your final destination?

Passport Control and Security Screening

Geataí Gates

Security screening You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security. Departure lounge Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.

101-335

Hand Baggage search

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.

Gate Information Screens

Follow signs for Flight Connections

Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.

AerClub Concierge, Platinum and Silver members are welcome to visit the Aer Lingus Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.

Departure gate Enjoy free Wi-Fi in Dublin Airport


MARCO PIERRE WHITE STEAKHOUSE & GRILL

For over 175 years everyone has enjoyed a warm Irish Welcome in The Temple Bar.

DAWSON STREET DUBLIN 2

MARCO PIERRE WHITE COURTYARD BAR & GRILL DONNYBROOK DUBLIN 4

2016 winner

Lovers of whiskey have enjoyed Irelands largest whiskey collection, complimented with live Irish music sessions daily at the friendliest spot in Dublin.

2016 2017 winner

2018 2017 winner

www.marcopierrewhite.ie

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Explore the world with us

Anchorage Juneau

Ketchikan

Edmonton

Saskatoon Vanc Bel

Victoria

Seattle

Calgary

Portland

Regina

Eugene

Winnipeg

Vancouver Bellingham

Victoria

Wenatchee

Seattle

Thunder Bay

Kalispell Spokane Pullman

Pasco

Great Falls Belgrade

Portland

Sacramento

Milwaukee Madison

Sioux Falls

Cedar Rapids Omaha

Reno

Kansas City

Oakland Fresno

Fort Wayne Akron Canton

Oklahoma City

Memphis

Greenville Atlanta

San Antonio

Houston

Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard

New York JFK

Philadelphia

Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham

Charlotte Columbia

Charleston

El Paso Austin

Greensboro

Knoxville

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Tucson

Newark

Boston Hyannis

Washington (National)

Lexington

Little Rock Phoenix

Providence

Washington (Dulles)

Nashville

Tulsa

Hartford Pittsburgh

Columbus Harrisburg Baltimore Cincinnati

Portland ME

Albany

Rochester

Dayton

Indianapolis

Springfield

Monterey San Luis Obispo Los Angeles Santa Barbara Burbank Ontario Long Beach Palm Springs Santa Ana San Diego

Buffalo

Cleveland

Louisville

Wichita Las Vegas

Syracuse

Detroit

St Louis

Halifax

Burlington

Toronto

Grand Rapids

Chicago

Des Moines

Denver

San Francisco San Jose

Ottawa Traverse

Boise

Salt Lake City

Moncton Fredericton

Montreal

Billings

Medford

Santa Rosa

Duluth

Minneapolis–St Paul

Redmond Eugene

St. John’s

Quebec Fargo

Walla Walla

Yakima

Missoula

New Orleans

Tallahassee Pensacola

Savannah

Jacksonville Gainesville

Orlando Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale

Miami Honolulu Kahului

Key West

Honolulu Kahului

San Juan Aguadilla Ponce


INFLIGHT

143

Save time with US Preclearance You’ll clear US immigration in Dublin or Shannon Airport before you board your flight with us to the US. That means arriving in the US as a domestic passenger and avoiding those immigration queues.

We fly to more than 100 destinations across the US, Canada, Europe, the UK and Ireland. We’ve also got great partnerships with JetBlue, British Airways and many more airlines to connect you to even more destinations. Where’s next on your travel wishlist?

Aer Lingus European and North American network Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air) Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe, for routes via Dublin to North America) Aer Lingus partner destinations (American Airlines, Air Canada, Alaska Airlines, Jetblue, United Airlines and WestJet)

Aberdeen Glasgow

Newcastle

Donegal

Belfast Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester

Isle of Man

Knock

Dublin

Shannon Kerry

Edinburgh

Birmingham

Cork

Cardiff Newquay

Berlin

London London Heathrow City

Bristol Exeter

Hamburg Amsterdam

Düsseldorf

London Gatwick

Southampton

Brussels Prague

Frankfurt

Jersey

Paris Vienna

Munich

Rennes

Budapest

Zurich

Nantes Geneva Lyon Bordeaux

Toulouse

Santiago de Compostela

Bilbao

Montpellier Perpignan

Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Bologna Pula Nice Pisa

Split

Marseille

Bourgas

Dubrovnik Rome

Barcelona

Naples

Madrid Corfu

Palma

Lisbon Alicante Malaga

Athens Catania

Faro

Tenerife Tenerife

Lanzarote Lanzarote Fuerteventura Fuerteventura

Gran Canaria Gran Canaria

Route map correct at time of print. Destinations and schedules subject to change.

Izmir


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Connections to Middle East & Australasia

Dublin

London Heathrow

Dubai Abu Dhabi

Sydney

Melbourne

You can book flights from Dublin to the Middle East and Australia at aerlingus.com with our codeshare partners, British Airways and Etihad Airways.

Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)


U.S. IMMIGRATION LAWYERS SINCE 1997

Excellent track record representing: • • • • •

Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers

• • • •

Family-based petitions Interns and trainees Artists Outstanding individuals in athletics, business, entertainment and science

For client testimonials visit: www.obrienandassociates.com @usvisaexpert

New York Office: T: 212-965-1148

Deirdre O’Brien, Esq.

Kilkenny Office: T: 056-7767994

MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION


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INFLIGHT

Let’s get you connected Keep chatting, sharing and discovering Connect to our inflight Wi-Fi 1

Connect to our Mobile Network* 1

Turn on your device and connect to Aer_Lingus_WiFi

Turn on your device and switch off flight-safe mode

(A330 and A321neoLR)

If the Aeromobile Network doesn’t connect straight away, select it via your Network settings

2 Launch your browser, click ‘Buy Internet Access’ and purchase a plan Choose from the following plans

AerSocial €6.95 | $7.95 Up to 50MB

AerSurf €13.95 | $15.95 Up to 120MB The smart choice

AerMax €29.95 | $32.95 Up to 270MB

3 Enter a username and password and start browsing

2 Once you’re connected, you’ll receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile

*Mobile Network is available on A330 only


See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal

manufactured before your eyes Guided Factory Tours Daily

C: +353 (0) 51 317000 E: houseofwaterfordcrystal@fiskars.com W: www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com


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INFLIGHT

Welcome to your world -class airline We’re so proud of our 4-star Skytrax rating. Being celebrated on the world stage for our consistent quality and excellence in guest experience never gets old. We hope you enjoy your ight with us today.


See the city like a local. The DoDublin Card includes : • • • • • •

Direct Airlink Transfer Hop on Hop off City To ur Dublin Bus Travel FREE Walking To ur FREE Little Museum Entry 3 Day Card for €35

Buy Tickets at : Bus & Travel Information Desk (T1 Arrivals Hall) or Airlink Bus Stop (T1 & T2)

Dublin’s Best Sightseeing & Travel Pass

Airlink Express Hop on Hop off Dublin Bus

dodublin.ie


150

BOUTIQUE

TOP PICKS Feel confident, fit and fresh with these Boutique magazine essentials – a natural summer glow with a little boost.

CALVIN KLEIN ETERNITY FOR MEN AIR €39 A medley of mandarin, lavender and earthy patchouli, this fragrance is the perfect way to spruce up after a long-haul flight. Arrive gloriously confident.

ELARI NANOPODS SPORT €99 To enhance your sporty glow, try these secure, Bluetooth buds – ideal for long runs in new places with new music/ podcasts/audiobooks. The best part? They’re waterproof, so you can get a morning swim in, stress-free.

TAN-LUXE THE FACE ILLUMINATING SELF TAN DROPS €26 These award-winning drops work like a dream. Just apply after moisturiser for a streak-fee, natural tan that lasts an entire week. Mmm ... smells like raspberry. (Two drops for radiance, four for sunkissed).

SKIN NERD CLEANSE OFF MITT €5 A gentle, eco-friendly alternative to face wipes, you can wash and reuse this microfibre mitt. Just add water and remove makeup with a soft swipe – a travel must.

TANORGANIC SELF TAN MOUSSE €22 This certified organic and velvety mousse is 75 per cent aloe vera mixed with argan and baobab oils, guaranteeing nourishment and hydration in an envious shade of golden bronze.


DUBLIN EXCLUSIVE GLENDALOUGH POITÍN

Cocktails from €8.95

€ 7.45

Poitín is Ireland's historic predecessor to whiskey. It can be traced as far back as 584AD in the monastic settlements of Glendalough.

Fleet Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 HARDROCK.COM

E R ’ U YO

N O C BA AZY! Me

CR

Bacon Crusted Ribs

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FIRST AMONG EQUALS Gráinne Cronin was Aer Lingus’ first female captain back in 1988 – and there’s more work to be done, to welcome women into aviation.

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n August 2, 1988, a commuter plane flew from Dublin to Shannon. Nothing extraordinary about that, only it was the first time that an Aer Lingus aircraft had been entirely “manned” by women. Captain Gráinne Cronin, above, was co-piloted by Elaine Egan, having received her

wings at Aer Lingus in 1979, when this photograph was taken, alongside her pilot father, Felim. Retired since 2010, Cronin was not Ireland’s first female aviator – there were Limerick’s Lady Mary Heath in the 1920s (Great Britain’s first woman to hold a commercial license) and Wicklow’s Gillian Cazalet, flying for the UK’s Dan-Air and

Sweden’s Skyways in the early 1970s – but she unequivocally paved the way for female captains here. Aer Lingus was one of Europe’s earliest airlines to actively recruit women, but with only ten per cent of its pilots female in 2019, it is keen to attract considerably more. This year it employed Red C Research to poll 500 adults, aged 18-30, of which 350 were female and 150 male, to investigate the gender disparity. And the results were stark, with males more likely to consider and be advised to follow a STEM career (50 per cent) than females (31 per cent), while in career guidance at schools and colleges, the role of a pilot was discussed much more with male students (19 per cent) than with females (eight per cent). The topmost reasons for women not considering a career in the cockpit include “not for me” and a lack of confidence they would have the necessary skills (40 per cent), with only a quarter of men believing they don’t have the right skill set. Visibility, confidence and education are clearly key in attracting young women to a vocation in aviation. What both genders had in common is that most were unaware that the Aer Lingus Future Pilot Training Programme is fully funded by the airline, which takes around 18 months to complete, and involves a stint in Jerez, Spain. While take up for this programme is very popular, the application rate among women has hovered around seven per cent. Here’s hoping that this summer’s female applicants are more plentiful and that there are many more Gráinne Cronins to come.

Wing leaders – Gráinne Cronin and her captain father, Felim, pictured, in 1979. Her sister, Caroline, is a pilot, as are Gráinne’s two daughters, Alana and Louisa.


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