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Cara Magazine June 2013

June 2013

Golfer Graeme McDowell

Customer magazine of the year

Irish Festivals Shannon Region Marseille Cambridge MA Amsterdam Barcelona

Driving force


Meet golfer Graeme McDowell

Eclectic picnics Ireland’s hottest summer festivals Let it shine

Marseille’s glossy makeover


City break

Cambridge MA has the smarts


Dutch gold

The art of Amsterdam

Family matters

French fancies in Perpignan

Irish foodie heaven

Find the best of the mid-west

complimentary copy

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Contents June 2013


Out and about in Cambridge MA

Festival magic


New look Marseille

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04 ARRIVALS Holiday! Celebrate! It’s party time at Dublin’s T2

104 48 HOuRS IN BARCELONA Eats, drinks and the arts by Mal Rogers

07 CHECK IN This month’s events, new restaurants, and travel trends

107 AN INSIDER’S GuIDE tO MILAN Sinead O’Sullivan’s fashionable finds

28 tHE G-FORCE David Robbins meets Graeme McDowell ahead of the Irish Open

18 WHAt’S IN My SuItCASE Actress Caitriona Balfe’s travel essentials


20 SMARt tRAVELLER Voltaire Diamonds’ Seamus Fahy is in love with Paris

136 tRIP OF A LIFEtIME Senior cabin crew Ann Mackesy sees firsthand UNICEF’s efforts in Malawi

22 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican on Irish landscapes and crime fiction 24 ON My tRAVELS Body & Soul Festival’s Avril Stanley’s hotspots 26 JFK’S LAStING tOuCH Lucy White spotlights Ireland’s JFK 50 commemorations

AER LINGuS INFLIGHt New films, TV, music and flight information


Western foodie spree

34 tHE FEStIVAL MAKERS Irish event organisers in profile by Lucy White 46 tHE BESt OF tHE MIDWESt Eoin Higgins’ gastronomic road trip 60 GOING DutCH Daragh Reddin views old masters and new museums in Amsterdam 72 SMARt CIty Lucy White gets an education in Cambridge, Massachusetts 84 ON tHE WAtERFRONt Marseille’s major makeover; Mary Dowey visits 98 5 OF tHE BESt FAMILy BREAKS IN PERPIGNAN We check out kid-friendly holidays

Contributors eDItorIal editor Frances Power Deputy editor Lucy White editorial assistant Méabh McDonnell Contributors Sive O’Brien, Amanda Cochrane, Liz Dwyer group editorial Director Laura George art art Director Clare Meredith aDVertISINg Commercial Director Clodagh Edwards +353 (0)1 271 9634, advertising Manager Noëlle O’Reilly +353 (0)1 271 9621, advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855,

Kristin Teig drove cross-country from her hometown in San Diego to Boston five years ago and has spent the time since getting to know the east coast through editorial assignments on food and lifestyle. For her feature on Cambridge MA, see page 72, she tried Clover’s Soy BLT for the first time, met artists in Somerville and watched kayakers navigate the Charles. “There is so much about Boston that I’m still discovering ... Many unexpected connections and conversations happened while I was working on this – it’s a city that continues to surprise me.”

Daragh Reddin has worked as features editor with Metro Herald for more than five years. As a callow young man, a weekend break to Amsterdam involved little more than weaving unsteadily and pathetically from one bar to the next. In his feature for Cara, see page 60, he returns as a mature and exemplary tourist to take in the city (mostly) by daylight. “With the reopening of the Rijksmuseum, the Stedelijk, the Van Gogh Museum, and the 400th anniversary of the stunning canal ring, there really has never been a better time to visit the invigorating Dutch capital,” says Daragh.

Publisher Richard Power aDMINIStratIoN acting Head of Pr & Promotions Roisin Finnegan, +353 (0)1 271 9643, office Manager Lucy Watts financial Controller Olga Gordeychuk Credit Controller Lisa Dickenson BoarD of DIreCtorS Managing Director Richard Power, Chairman Robert Power Directors Ann Reihill, Gina Traynor, Patrick Dillon-Malone, Laura George PrINtINg Boylan Print Group orIgINatIoN Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, 22 Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9625; fax +353 (0)1 280 8309;, email Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGE Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Publications Ltd.

Mary Dowey is a wine, food and travel writer who leaves Dublin at the drop of a hat to seek out southern French sunshine. For the past ten years she has had a part-time home near Avignon – a useful base for exploring all of Provence including salty, edgy Marseille, her favourite Mediterranean city, see page 84. She edited the English edition of the Michelin Green Guide to Provence and is forever on the move unearthing worthwhile new addresses. Hundreds of her best gastronomic discoveries are posted on her blog

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland. IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit or IMAGE Publications Ltd –


June 2013

Customer magazine of the year

Driving force Meet golfer graeMe McDowell

EclEctic picnics Ireland’s hottest summer festivals Let it shine

Marseille’s glossy makeover

City break

Cambridge MA has the smarts

Dutch gold

The art of Amsterdam

Family matters

French fancies in Perpignan

Irish foodie heaven

Find the best of the mid-west complimentary copy

oN tHe CoVer

Golfer Graeme McDowell photographed by Richard Gilligan

Celebrating luxury, creativity, service and the very best Irish and international brands since 1849.



who From left, Nicolas Fargette, Gregoire and Lucas Guillet Flying From Paris here For ... Gregoire is in Dublin with his brother and best friend for his last weekend as a bachelor before he heads down the aisle.

who Leanne Szanto and Jayne Nicola Flying From London here For ... It’s Jayne’s birthday, so she, Leanne and their large group of friends decided to hop on a plane to Dublin and celebrate in style.

who Marie Wiechert and Franke Scejer Flying From Hamburg here For ... Marie and Franke are off to meet their student friends in Galway for a fun-filled weekend in the City of the Tribes.


Dublin’s T2 is all about the fun this month with Cara magazine meeting Aer Lingus passengers in town for birthdays, stag parties and wild weekends. who From left, Jerome Bourriau, Philippe Josse and Jean Michael Fouchart Flying From Paris here For ... Fishing, fishing and more fishing, that’s the plan anyway. The trio are off to the lakes of Donegal to catch an elusive salmon.


who Olivia Ward and Francesca Rance Flying From Birmingham here For ... Olivia and Francesca are on a spur of the moment holiday to Dublin; they’re looking forward to a trip to the Guinness Storehouse to have a drop op of the black stuff.

who Damien Roh and Nicolas Hues Flying From Paris here For ... Nicolas has been a frequent visitor to Ireland since he lived here five years ago. This trip he’s acting as tour guide for his friend, Damien.


June 2013

who From left, Joel Coren, Jon Smith and Paul Gromer Flying From London here For ... Jon has no idea what he’s here for, he had no idea what he would be wearing this morning either! His friends whisked him away for a stag weekend in Dublin.

who Charlotte Brooks and Rosie Shuker Flying From Birmingham here For ... Charlotte and Rosie are here to indulge in a girly weekend in Dublin. They can’t wait to head off on an open bus tour and see the city.

Blarney Castle & Gardens Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence

See and feel Irelands heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains. Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.

Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday- Sunday 9-6 n



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Find out what’s on, where and when in June

Hidden depths Didier Massard’s haunting “La Cathédrale engloutie, 2012”, pictured, is just one of the highlights of this year’s Photomed festival at Sanary-sur-Mer, on the French island of Bendor, and the Hotel des Arts in Toulon until June 16. Ile de Bendor is bijou at just seven hectares, and boasts the tiniest harbour of the Cote d’Azur. It also has an artists’ village, a wine museum, and stunning sea views from the thoroughly romantic Hotel Le Delos, with ferries from mainland Bandol taking just seven minutes. AER LINGUS flies from DUBliN To MARSEILLE oN TUe, THUr AND sUN.

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4 glamping hotspots

Get some fresh air without compromising on style or comfort ...

Dromquinna Manor

Templenoe, Kenmare, Co Kerry, Ireland Think sleeping under canvas, think bumped heads on tent poles? Not at Dromquinna. These colossal African tents are more five-star hotel suite than your average two-man canopy, with king size beds, goose down duvets and pillows, and lakeside views to die for from your own veranda. There’s also access to nearby Park Hotel Kenmare, which has a luxury spa. Tents cost €150 per night. Open until September 15. 064 664 2888,

Belrepayre Airstream & Retro Trailer Park

Manses, France Far from trailer trash, this retro styled French campsite is scenically located in the Midi-Pyrénées approximately 90km south of Toulouse. It’s an American dream of ten themed Airstream trailers, and the Apollo Lounge bar for cult movie / quiz night / vinyl music nirvana. Trailer rental starts at €110 per night, including breakfast, pitches from €20. Open from April 26 to September 29. +335 616 81199 / +336 078 87679,

Hoopoe Yurt Hotel

Cortes de la Frontera, Andalucia, Spain This gorgeous boutique eco lodge is less than two hours from Malaga airport, and within easy access of the region’s pueblo blancos. Each smart yurt has a private self-composting loo and solarpowered shower, food is locally sourced, the swimming pool chlorine-free, while late-night film screenings compete for attention with a canopy of stars. €130 per yurt, including breakfast. Open May until October 4. +34 660 668 241,


A tale of two halves Love/Hate actor Tom Vaughan-Lawlor tells Lucy White about treading the boards in Mark O’Rowe’s reimagined play. Tom Vaughan-Lawlor has spent a lifetime in the footlights, winning acclaim on the Irish and British stage. But it’s his role as thug Nidge in RTE’s Love/Hate that has made him a household name: “People are so warm and generous about the show,” the Dundrum actor says. “There is a great sense of pride that Ireland has its own TV drama to stand up with the big US and UK series.” This popularity will undoubtedly ensure packed auditoriums this month when he stars in Mark O’Rowe’s darkly comic play Howie the Rookie. First staged in 1999, O’Rowe (Perrier’s Bounty, Boy A, Intermission) has reimagined the piece as a one-man show, Vaughan-Lawlor taking on two different characters. “Playing both


June 2013

parts is a massive challenge, and also a joy,” he admits. “I feel very lucky. The play is the story of two life-defining nights for two men, how their fates counterpoint and coalesce. The language has a muscularity and momentum that is irrepressible, that carries you. I can’t wait to perform it.” Howie the Rookie’s author is also the director (“a huge advantage – you don’t have to stand around scratching your head wondering what the hell the writer meant”). The production runs at Dublin’s Project Arts Centre from June 13 to July 6 and Cork’s Everyman Theatre from July 16-20 before moving to the Galway Arts Festival from July 22-27 and the Edinburgh Fringe from August 1 to 25.

Kate’s Lazy Meadow

5191 Rt. 28, Mt Tremper, NY 12457, USA A blast from the past in more ways than one, Kate Pierson of the B-52s fame has created her own love shacks with 1950s style décor – or “rustic swank”, says the singer. Located in the Catskill Mountains just five miles from Woodstock – and 3.5 hours from JFK airport – the lodgings and Airstream trailers all have mod-cons, and are set amongst fantastic hiking and fishing territory. From $17 per night. Open all year round. +1 845 688 7200.

Paul Costelloe

Klickity Yvonne Ryan

LOVE IRISH DESIGN Jennifer Rothwell

Dublin’s landmark department store and has been proudly, supporting, promoting and nurturing Irish Design since its opening in 1843. Today you can look, feel and touch the work of over 60 talented Irish designers in fashion, beauty, home and giftware – alongside leading International names, all under one elegant roof.

Shop online

Arnotts, 12 Henry St, Dublin 1 / 01 805 04400

Like us on Facebook Arnotts Department Store

Follow us on Twitter @arnottsdublin

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Expanding your horizons Nancy Rockett enjoys the view from some of the world’s best urban rooftop bars. With a veto on high-rise buildings in Dublin city, it is with open arms that we welcome The Marker, a contemporary hotel whose Rooftop Lounge has an enviable panoramic view (Grand Canal Square, Docklands, Dublin 2, 01 687 5100; Cocktails and craft beers complement an urban sunset, while the food menu boasts locally sourced and seasonal produce.

3 watches Keeping time has never looked so good, says Sive O’Brien.

CErTiNa dS aCTioN divEr €1,735 at Arnotts

TiSSoT T-raCE TouCH oraNGE €425 at Keanes, Cork JaEGEr LE CouLTrE MaSTEr CoMPrESSEr GEoGraPHiC €11,000, Weir & Sons

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Meanwhile, its hip, sleek fixtures are tempered by indigenous grasses and flora planted between each seated section for a relaxed, chill-out vibe. Another excellent view from the top is Skybar at Barcelona’s fashionable Grand Hotel Central (Via Laietana 30, +34 932 957 900;, which, as both names suggest, boasts bird’s eye views in the heart of the city – the 1920s property is right beside Barcelona Cathedral. By day, the rooftop is a vertiginous pool deck but by late afternoon it

becomes a sundowners’ hangout. While London is not short on public gardens, rooftop sunspots are at a premium, which makes South Place Hotel’s Angler Terrace a busy prospect during the summer months (3 South Place, +44 20 3503 0000; It, surprisingly – given its Moorgate/Liverpool Street location – rocks a Provence vibe, with pots of lavender and olive trees in addition to furniture by Patricia Urquiola. Still, the terrace is at the mercy of the weather, so if grey clouds are looming, call ahead to see if it’s open.


What’s cooking in Dublin this month?

Eoin Higgins gets the skinny from Coppa Cafe’s restaurateur Federico Riezzo.

Federico Riezzo, right, hails from Aprilia, just south of Rome in Italy and is currently managing operations at quick new lunch stop, Coppa Café at the RHA contemporary art gallery in Dublin’s city centre (15 Ely Place, Dublin 2, coppa. ie). June is one of Federico’s favourite months in the capital – here he reveals what whets his palate in the summertime. “I am really looking forward to the Taste of dublin festival (June 13-16). It’s a great weekend out and no better opportunity to try the different foods and restaurant styles Dublin has to offer. The atmosphere is usually one of fun socialising, it really appeals to the Italian in me. The

weather, not so much! June in Ireland is the peak of the strawberry season and this summer I think a nice strawberry and white chocolate jam is on the cards. If there isn’t a barbecue going on at a friend’s house, I like to picnic. The Phoenix Park has great seated areas that are always nice for supper in the city. Just bring some simple foods, nothing too complicated, a chilled bottle of Prosecco and someone close to your heart, it’s wonderful. Restaurant dining alfresco is another big love of mine, so eating at one of the terraces is also a passion. Because my

friends work there, I love sitting outside at Coppinger row. It is worth it for the people watching alone, but the food is good too, and the cocktails ... they are something else.”


Are you coming to Ireland for the Gathering – Ireland’s call to the Irish diaspora to visit in 2013? If so, celebrate in style and bring your group to Kildare Village. You’ll get a Kildare Village Prepaid MasterCard® Gift Card. They’ll get up to 60%* off in their favourite designer boutiques and take home more than just great memories. For further details and to book, visit

anya hindmarch · Basler · Brooks Brothers · church’s · Furla · gerard darel · hackett · hugo Boss Jaeger · l.K.Bennett · louise Kennedy · Musto · n.Peal · Pandora · thomas Pink · Wolford and many more | M7 Motorway exit 13. Regular train and coach services from Dublin. Bicester village


Kildare village


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*on the recommended retail price all year round.

las rozas village


la roca village

Fidenza village

Barcelona Milan

MaasMechelen village


WertheiM village


ingolstadt village


© Kildare Village 2013


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Jurassic party Have you ever dreamed of sleeping at the feet of a Diplodocus? Prepare to be amazed: London’s Natural History Museum has launched an adult version of its Dino Snores sleepovers. Yes, you and your sleeping bag are invited to bed down for a night in the museum, as well as indulge in a three-course dinner, cooked breakfast and midnight feasting. There’ll also be stand-up comedy and live music, table quizzes, life drawing, a science show and an all-night movie marathon. June 29’s slumber party is sold out but they’ve scheduled more on August 16 and October 19, starting at 7.30pm and finishing at 9.30am. Admission is €175 per person. aer linGuS FLIES FROM DUBLIN, CORK, SHANNON AND BELFAST TO london DAILY.


Heatwave hotties Up your beach babe factor with these scorching beauty treats. By Liz Dwyer. Garnier ambre Solaire bb Sun Protection SPF 50, €24.40 Boasting all the perfecting and glow-enhancing benefits of the original BB cream, and with the added protection of SPF50, this is all you need for sun smart, stunning summer skin. aerin beach cream, €50 Perfect for sunny days and balmy nights, this subtly shimmering body lotion adds a delicate veil of bronze to skin and a hint of a beachy scent. It can also be added to unruly hair too, as the sun’s warming rays activate a powerful, deep conditioning treatment. Paul and Joe eye and liP GloSS duo in bahamaS, €32 For

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glossy lids and sparkling lips, slick on these alluring seascape shades for just the right amount of sun lounger shimmer. oJon rare blend oil, €34 A blend of seven potent natural oils legendary for their great healing powers, you simply brush this divinely scented dry oil through hair to combat humidity frizz and to add a megawatt shine. narS thakoon FaShion nail PoliSh, €19.04 For talking point talons, lacquer up with this electric yellow hue from Nars, its long-lasting, chip resistant formula looks gorgeous against golden skin.

overseas visitors, The As a token of appreciation to extra value to tourists with Gathering Gesture app offers les of gestures include Android and iPhones. Examp and restaurants, gifts, gratis welcome drinks at hotels ilable at iTunes now. and free car hire upgrades. Ava Food

Going wild in the country Wild foraging is all the rage in Ireland this summer, Eoin Higgins unearths the natural attraction of a Wild Foods Masterclass in Co Wicklow. What’s that then? A Wild Foods Masterclass, where one can discover in-depth information about Ireland’s abundance of wild, forage-worthy grub. The two-day masterclass includes demonstrations and talks with Evan Doyle, right, acclaimed chef and co-author of the bestselling Irish food book Wild Food. Where is it? The masterclass is held at the famed BrookLodge in scenic Co Wicklow, home to Ireland’s only certified wild and organic restaurant, The Strawberry Tree. Set in the charming environs of Macreddin Village, the setting is one of natural beauty combined with first class amenities. highlights? Classes will cover identification as well as instructions

on how to gather, cook and preserve wild foods using traditional methods such as sugar, oil, drying, vinegars and alcohol. Overnight stay at the fantastic BrookLodge and optional dinner at The Strawberry Tree restaurant. What’s the damage? The course costs €195 for partners or friends sharing, or €230 for single rooms. Dinner in either The Strawberry Tree Restaurant (€65) or La Taverna Armento (€35) is optional. When’s it happening? The Wild Foods Masterclass is held twice a month. For further details, visit



Blarney Woollen Mills, Blarney, Co. Cork, Ireland Blarney Woollen Mills,Bunratty, Co. Clare, Ireland Blarney Woollen Mills, Dove Hill, Carrick on Suir, Co. Tipperary, Ireland shop online at

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Eat like a Madrileño

In a city of seemingly endless choices, when it comes to small bites, Madrid can be an overwhelming proposition. Eoin Higgins chooses his three favourite tapas restaurants in the Spanish capital.


Well versed in Paris

Seafood central for Madrileños who don’t mind standing, and shouting, alongside a raucous crowd of enthusiastic Spanish food lovers, La Casa del Abuelo (Calle Victoria 12, +34 910 000133; lacasadelabuelo. es) has the feel of a longstanding city favourite. And that’s because it is – this well-patronised and muchloved tapas joint is over 100 years old.

A newish outfit, but consistently satisfying, Lateral (six locations across the city; combines the effortless efficiency of a chain with the personal touches of a passionately run restaurant. The sensibility is Madridmoderne: quite stylish, and very reasonable. As much a hotspot with canny locals as it is with blow-in city-breakers.

At Txakolina (Calle de Cava Baja 26, +34 913 664 877; food is served thick and fast. The bite-sized creations are actually Basque, and served on fresh crusty bread with a cocktail stick pinching together an overflowing stack of luxuriously flavoured elements. Great wines by the glass too.

The Marché de la Poésie is a highlight of Paris’s bibliophilic calendar, when on June 6-9, publishers, writers and bookworms converge on the Left Bank. This year Ireland has been chosen as its “Country of Honour”, with guest scribes including Paula Meehan, Eavan Boland and Biddy Jenkinson. Big crowds are also expected at a free reading by Nobel Prize-winning poet Seamus Heaney at the Centre Culturel Irlandais on June 13 as part of its open-air season. Also in the courtyard are the Meteor Choice Prize-winning Irish four-piece Delorentos, making their French debut on June 21, alongside contemporary trad band The Gloaming.



The sky’s The limiT On July 21, north Co Wicklow welcomes the return of the Bray Air Display, the largest aviation event in Ireland. Expect gravity-defying, jaw-dropping, crowdpleasing aerobatic feats at this free event that in 2011 attracted a record breaking 80,000 spectators. dIARY

Dublin in full bloom More Bloomsweek than Bloomsday, Dublin’s annual paean to James Joyce returns. What once took place every June 16 – the date referenced in Ulysses – is now nearly a week-long affair from June 10 with a literary homage of walking tours, performances, readings and peculiar breakfasts: nutty gizzards, anyone? A newcomer to the programme on June 15 and 16 is Wonderland Productions’ Read Dubliners by Bike; a guided bicycle tour around Joyce’s Dublin in which his stories are relayed by an ensemble cast via individual headphones. The jaunt literally takes in The Boarding House of Hardwicke Street and An Encounter in Ringsend, plus a traditional coddle lunch and a glass of porter in Farrington’s, the historical pub of Counterparts. Tickets cost €29.99 inclusive. /

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Book online at www.guinness and get 10% off adult tickets. Guinness Storehouse®, St James’s Gate, Dublin 8. Tel. 00353 1 408 4800

The GUINNESS and GUINNESS STOREHOUSE words and associated logos are trademarks. (c) Guinness & Co. 2013

Visit the magical home of GUINNESS in Dublin.

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Wish you were here Thi month, reader – This and passenger – La Galina, left, shares Lana thi shot from her holiday this in Playa de Cofete, Fu Fuerteventura. Lana li lives in Greystones, Wicklo and took up photography Co Wicklow, just two years ago as a hobby. She says, “Playa de Cofete is a secluded beach in the south-western part of Fuerteventura. The beach is at least ten miles long with Atlantic waves crashing against the shore. We spent a day on it with the family and really enjoyed the nature and the amazing scene of clouds hanging over the mountain range. There was something eerie and magical about this place. It also has a bit of a mystery about it and even a conspiracy theory related to WWII. It truly is a unique and an unforgettable place.”

The technicals Have you a stunning photograph of your trip to an Aer Lingus destination to share? Send it to us at and we’ll publish our favourite shot in the October/ November issue. Photographs must be a 300-dpi high resolution file and accompanied by a portrait of yourself and 100 words about the story behind the shot. The editor’s decision is final.

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June 2013

June 2013

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sTRiped CoRd BloUse €185 at silk sCARF Barbara Agnes, €229 at

FloRAl dRess €30 at

What’s in my


You’ll catch Irish model-cum-actress Caitriona Balfe unleashing her inner surfer-girl at Malibu Beach in LA (where she lives), or hanging out on Goa’s beaches in India. When not beachside, she’s acting alongside heavy-hitters like Morgan Freeman and Michael Caine in the blockbuster heist Now You See Me. Sive O’Brien checks out her weekend bag.

eAU de pARFUme Ellenisia, €112 at lip BAlm €14 at Kiehl’s, 35 Wicklow Street, Dublin 2 solAR deFeNCe BoosTeR €48 at

CUT-oUT CoTToN dRess Suno, €473.55 at AViAToR sUNglAsses Ray-Ban, €159 at Brown Thomas, Grafton Street, Dublin 2 Flip Flops Slim logo popup, €28.37 at

Book Naked by the Window by Robert Katz, €18.50 at Easons

VolUme millioN lAshes exCess NoiR L’Oreal, €16 at Boots nationwide

leATheR holdAll Louis Vuitton, €1,100 at Brown Thomas, as above moNo TWisT BikiNi Top All Saints; €40; matching bottoms; €35; both at Arnotts, Henry Street, Dublin 1

JeANs Rag & Bone, skinny mid-rise, €275 at

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sURFBoARd €470 at

Certina DS Eagle Chrono €929

Rado HyperChrome Automatic €3,516

Buy before you fly


Tax savings for all passengers

Tissot Luxury Automatic €960

e :

Swatch Limonata €80


t : +353 (0)1 9446463


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Smart Traveller|

Looking for the best places to do business in Paris or to stay in Rome? Lisa Hughes marks your cards.

LittLe BLack Book PARiS


As managing director of Voltaire Diamonds, which has offices in Dublin and London, Seamus Fahy flies at least once a week. His favourite city for doing business is Paris. Best place for business meetings … I like the bar in Hotel du Louvre (Place Andre Malraux;, north of the river, or the bar in the Hotel Lutetia (45 Boulevard Raspail; on the south side of the river. Best for business lunch … I keep an eye on the website lefooding. com for the latest openings and am rarely disappointed. Favourites include Karl & Erick (20 Rue de Tocqueville; +33 1 4227 0371) in the 17th arrondissement and Le Pré Verre (8 Rue Thénard, +33 1 4354 5947; or Lilane (8 Rue Gracieuse, +33 1 4587 9068; in the 5th arrondissement. Less known is the Au Zaganin (81 Rue de Rochechouart , +33 1 48 78 12 70; in the 18th where they have Pluma Iberico, an amazingly tender piece of Spanish pork. Full dinner is around €30/€40pp. Finally, Paris offers some excellent north African cuisine; I had dinner once at the Paris Mosque (Place du Puits de l’Ermite) and was amazed by the taste of couscous and tagine there. Although beware: no wine is served! Best for business drinks … I like the bar in Park Hyatt Vendôme (5 Rue de la Paix, +33 1 5871 1234; or the bar in Hôtel du Louvre (see above)

or Georges V (31 Avenue George V, +33 1 4952 7000; paris/ ). For a more relaxed and off-work atmosphere, a good glass of wine at La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels (7 Rue Lobineau, +33 9 5490 2020) is great. For a nonworking drink on a sunny day, Le Bar du Marché (75 Rue de Seine) in St-Germain-des-Prés is a must. Best business hotel … Park Hyatt Vendôme (see above) or, for a boutique hotel, the Royal Monceau (37 Avenue Hoche, +33 1 4299 8800; Tipping … Service is included in Paris so tipping is usually limited. If service is good, you can leave the change for your drink or up to 10 per cent for a meal. Getting around … Paris is very easy to get around cheaply if you use the Metro; you’re always less than three minutes away by foot from a station and you avoid the traffic jams. The G7 Taxi (+33 1 4790 6611) company offers a business service that is expensive but reliable. Technology… To get to and from the airport, I recommend using a motorcycle taxi service if travelling at peak time. It’s easy to book online ( and costs €80 to and from Charles de Gaulle airport.

Must-have travel gadget GlobalGig cut data roaming charges while on the go by using GlobalGig, a pocket Wi-Fi hotspot that can connect up to five devices, including laptops, tablets and smartphones, to the internet at one time. the gadget works across GlobalGig’s network which currently includes the USa, Uk, australia, ireland, Hong kong, Sweden and Denmark; £50 at 20 |

June 2013


Business hotels in Rome

SHERATON ROMA HOTEL & CONFERENCE CENTER The Sheraton, above, is in Rome’s EUR business district and boasts a wellequipped conference centre. The hotel also offers a shuttle service to the city centre and airport as well as the Link@ Sheraton, a workspace with high speed internet access. (Viale Del Pattinaggio 100, +39 06 54531; HOTEL MAJESTiC ROMA This neoclassical-style hotel offers generous rooms, high-speed internet and helpful staff. Located in the Via Veneto district, the hotel gives guests unlimited access to the business facilities and a fully equipped fitness centre. (Via Vittorio Veneto 50, +39 06 421 441; HOTEL TRE FONTANE This three-star hotel offers value for money and easy access to the nearby business district. Set in an Art Deco building, guests stay in spacious rooms equipped with Wi-Fi, large desks and pretty balconies. (Via del Serafico 51, +39 06 51956556; ARTEMiDE HOTEL Within walking distance of most major attractions and public transport links, the four-star Artemide has free WiFi, a free, regularly refilled mini bar and a roof-top restaurant in which to hold meetings or grab a bite. (Via Nazionale 22, +39 06 489 911; DAPHNE iNN If you need basic accommodation at affordable rates, head for this boutique hotel. Five to ten minutes’ walk from the Trevi Fountain, this hotel offers a 24/7 concierge service to assist with transport. Guests are also given a mobile phone to use. (Via di San Basilio 55, +39 06 874 50086/7;

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Shelf Life|

Reading the landscape: Bridget Hourican highlights a geographical history of Ireland and some of the best native crime writing.

Who’s reading what?

Novelist Deirdre Madden indulges in comfort reading on her travels.

WHAT ARE YOU READING? The Love-charm of Bombs by Lara Feigel. It’s an account of the lives of several writers, including Elizabeth Bowen and Graham Greene, during the Second World War. The descriptions of the atmosphere in London during the Blitz are extraordinary. WHERE ARE YOU LOOKING FORWARD TO VISITING THIS SUMMER? I’ll be going to Paris for a few days. I used to live there and it’s always good to go back. I’d also like to go to Stockholm. I’ve only ever been there in winter, so it would be great to visit when the days are long and the weather is good, and go out to the archipelago. (although it has those). This tie-in BEST BOOK TO TAKE ON A JOURNEY? with an RTÉ series of the same Sometimes it’s nice to indulge in some name looks at the changing comfort reading when you’re travelling; books Irish landscape, from BOOK IT! such as Gavin Maxwell’s Ring of Bright glacial formations The Hay Festival Water about life with his pet otter in to dry stone walls. comes to Kells, Co Meath, the Highlands of Scotland; or anything Twenty-three from June 28-30. See authors by PG Wodehouse. I was in Finland a authors and including DBC Pierre, John couple of years ago and rediscovered experts examine Boyne, Jeanette Winterson, the Moomins books by Tove Jansson. the impact of ice John Banville, Nerys Williams That was a real delight! sheets, climatic and Frank McGuiness; BOOK YOU WISH YOU’D NEVER change and human TAKEN? In general I love Dickens but, intervention, with kells home or away, Little Dorrit is hard going. chapters on drumlins,

LORE OF THE LAND Two secrets of the Irish landscape: tiny white flowers growing in the shallow soil of Ben Bulben, called Arctic sandwort (arenaria ciliatia), may be the only species on the island that survived the Ice Age. Next, a turlough in the Burren, Co Clare – is it a vanishing lake or a vanishing field? At what point did this permanent water body change to a seasonally flooded basin? Secrets of the Irish Landscape, edited by Matthew Jebb with Colm Crowley (Atrium/Cork University Press, €29), which is out this month, is not just another book of stunning landscape photos

forests, the Burren, the Céide Fields, the Bronze and Iron Ages, and Ogham stones.

Novelist Deirdre Madden’s latest novel, Time Present and Time Past (Faber & Faber) is out June 6.

Best recent Irish crime ... The Twelfth Department by William Ryan (Mantle, (M €18.75) out May Ma 23. Ryan returns, with wi police investigator, Captain Ca Korolev, to 1930s 19 Russia. An eminent scientist, with access to the country’s top secrets, is shot dead in view of the Kremlin. The killing goes all the way to the top. 22 |

June 2013

The Lost by Claire McGowan Mc (Headline, €20.50) €2 out now. Two te teenage girls go missing on the Irish border. Fo Forensic psychologist Pa Paula Maguire returns from England to her native Northern Ireland to investigate. McGowan draws on the province’s dark history in this first book of a series.

Screwed by Eoin Colfer (H (Headline, €16.99) out Ma May 9. The Artemis Fowl author brings his an anarchic, madcap brand of crime writing to adult fic fiction, with this sequel to Plugged Plugged. Scre Screwed plunges back into the New Jersey crime world, which, in Colfer’s hands, is cartoonish and surreal, with just a dash of Wodehouse.




Ireland’s Most Unique Visitor Destination See the pinafore worn by Judy Garland in the Wizard of OZ at the Newbridge Museum of Style Icons from May 22nd to July 31st Experience the glitz of Hollywood for FREE at the Newbridge Silverware Visitor Centre, Ireland’s most unique visitor attraction. Home to the legendary Museum of Style Icons, showcasing memorabilia from icons such as Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, Princess Diana, Elizabeth Taylor, Michael Jackson and many more. With great shopping, sumptuous food and the museum’s outstanding permanent collection, this is a memorable experience for all visitors.

oPEN 7 DAYS, FREE ENtRY. PARKING FAcILItIES oNSItE. Directions: Take the M7 from Dublin. Leave M7 at Junction 12 signed CURRAGH / NEWBRIDGE and follow the signs into town. Turn right at shopping centre. The Newbridge Silverware Visitor Centre is 600 metres on the right.



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On my travels

Founder of the Body&Soul Festival, Avril Stanley tells Sive O’Brien how global wanderings have inspired her.

Born in the west of Ireland, Avril Stanley has travelled extensively, running events in San Francisco, creating chill-out spaces in the UK, as well as setting up a nightclub in Galway – all with a focus on fusing holistic arts with performance. She created Body&Soul, first as a section of the Electric Picnic festival and then as a standalone event at Ballinlough Castle in Co Westmeath every summer solstice. Body&Soul runs at Ballinlough Castle, Co Westmeath from June 21-23;

veryone thought we were mad … to start the Body&Soul festival in the early stages of the recession in Ireland. Thankfully, we sold out and were blessed with a heat wave – the start of an exciting journey. The best festival is … one that sends you home with a glint in your eye, spirit of adventure in your soul, memories that make you smile and new friendships to brighten up your world. The most special place I’ve ever been to is … Ulpotha – an eco-village in Sri Lanka offering yoga and ayurvedic retreats. The village is cradled by low mountains, a lotus-ringed lake and emerald paddy fields. The accommodation is simple – mud huts, comfy beds, cotton sheets,


oil lamps and hammocks – no electricity or mobile phone coverage. Bliss. The place I am most drawn to is … Bhutan – a predominantly Buddhist country where gross national happiness is deemed more important than gross national product. The strangest thing to happen while away … was a last-minute decision to jump on a boat with complete strangers heading to an uninhabited island off the coast of Madagascar to see a total solar eclipse. It was one of the most awe-inspiring moments in my life and led to four other expeditions to see total eclipses around the globe. I once climbed … Machu Picchu in Peru. Spectacular. Indian culture … has had the most impact on me. With

such a variety of race, religion and culture, you come across festivals and indigenous customs of all kinds: the mass Hindu pilgrimage of Kumbh Mela; glimmering lights of Diwali or colours of Holi. The most unexpected encounter I have had away … was swimming with a dolphin in the Red Sea. Once I realised it wasn’t going to eat me, it was an awesome experience. You realise what poverty is … when you witness the slums of Delhi in India right beside swanky shopping malls. The divide between poor and rich is huge; it reminds you to appreciate what you have. The best way to travel is … solo. You leave who you think you are at home and life becomes a game of trust, adventure and

3 top holistic retreats


Blow away the cobwebs with a six-night allinclusive surfing, yoga and hiking holiday at the four-star Memmo Baleeira Hotel in Portugal’s Algarve, left. From €695, the luxury beachside retreat includes twice daily yoga and mindful exercises, surfing, walks and vegetarian meals.

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June 2013


Tibetan Dzogchen lama and The Tibetan Book of Living and Dying author Sogyal Rinpoche is leading an Irish Summer Retreat at Dzogchen Beara in coastal Allihies, West Cork. The nine-day annual programme starts June 28 and costs €490, including lunch and supper.

unforgettable experiences. My dream festival line-up is … David Bowie, Kate Bush and Elvis! I’d return to … Sri Lanka in the morning. But there isn’t a single place I’ve visited that I wouldn’t go back to. There is magic and beauty to be found everywhere. Travelling is … an incredible gift. It brings colour, acceptance, humility, adventure, trust and appreciation to life. My next trip is … to the Andaman Islands, in the Bay of Bengal – incredible corals, marine life and near-deserted beaches – yes, please. I’m most excited about … Nick Cave & The Bad Seeds at this month’s festival. He’s one of my heroes. That and the Masquerade Ball, which falls on midsummer’s night.


If you find yourself frazzled in New York this summer, consider Pop Up Yoga, whose vinyasa instructors will come to your hotel, or any location of your choice, mats in tow. They also offer corporate group sessions, ideal for stressed out business travellers. checkthis. com/popupyoga.

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JFK’s lasting touch

This month marks the 50th anniversary of John F Kennedy’s historic visit to Ireland. Lucy White sets the scene for the commemorative events in New Ross. can still see him in my mind’s eye, he was just so ... striking looking. He was smiling and waving at us, he seemed to me to be extremely handsome, very tanned. And that shock of light brown hair ...” Statia O’Leary of Co Wexford is fondly remembering the visit of John F Kennedy to Ireland in June 1963, when the entire country was in thrall to the charismatic American president of Irish origin. She, along with thousands of spectators, flocked to see “the guy we saw in photographs beside the Pope in our parents’ houses”, in the words of Victor Furness, who also made the pilgrimage to New Ross – birthplace of JFK’s greatgrandfather. After singing The Boys of Wexford in the school choir, Furness was rewarded with a presidential handshake. Joe Hall, of Co Kildare got to meet the nation’s idol too: “I was eleven years old, and we all travelled down from Dublin – my father was a teacher there and my grandfather was a shipping agent from the emigrant ships in New Ross. JFK shook my hand.” These are among the personal stories driving The Homecoming, the flagship events of JFK 50, to be attended by Taoiseach Enda Kenny


in New Ross on June 22. There will be the opening of the €1.5 million Kennedy Homestead Visitors Centre in Dunganstown, a tree planting ceremony and permanent exhibition in the JFK Arboretum, and the lighting of The Eternal Flame on the renovated New Ross quayside inaugurating the Kennedy Trail. Co Clare artist Michael Hanrahan will be there to present to Caroline Kennedy one of his paintings depicting her father’s visit to Ireland. And it won’t be the first time their paths will have crossed either. In May, lucky Hanrahan was flown to Boston by Aer Lingus to deliver in person another JFK painting to the Kennedy Museum and Foundation. In fact, the artist is becoming something of a household name among heads of state: two years ago his painting of Queen Elizabeth II’s first visit to the Republic was accepted into the Royal Collection at Buckingham Palace, and last year Barack and Michelle Obama received an artwork of their whistle-stop trip to Moneygall in Co Tipperary. “I never thought when I did these paintings that one would hang in Boston and another be given to President Kennedy’s daughter as a gift,” he admits. “I just felt it was important in some way to capture

US President John F Kennedy greeting cousin Mary Ryan during a visit to his ancestral hometown.

3 moments of remembrance


Pride and Prejudice, June 20 to July 20, Regent’s Park, London It is exactly 200 years since the Bennett family first captured the world’s imagination – which is why Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre is presenting Jane Austen’s evergreen rom-com, Pride and Prejudice, this summer. Fetch my smelling salts, I feel a faintness coming on!

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April/MAy 2013


A Birthday Concert for Lorca, June 5, Bowery Ballroom, New York In a Manhattan-wide festival running until July 21, NYC pays tribute to Federico García Lorca. Singer/ songwriter Patti Smith celebrates Lorca’s birthday on June 5 “with friends”. Here’s hoping her pal and fellow Lorcaphile, Leonard Cohen, is one of them.

the 50th anniversary because I, myself, remember the depth of feeling, the excitement of his visit. I was twelve years old, living in Dublin, and saw him arriving in the big car, young, handsome and tanned – like a film star.” These sentiments are echoed by O’Leary, whose memory of the day is heightened by the president’s assassination just five months later. “I suppose the reason that the memory lingers so long is because he was murdered so soon afterwards,” she agrees, adding: “He had that thing some people have when they look at you and you know you have their full attention.” This month though, the full attention will be all on New Ross. For a full calendar of JFK 50 events, see


Famine Walk, June 22, Tracton, Co Cork This walk is in memory of the 124 men, women and children who, on June 22, 1850, abandoned their homes and headed eight miles to the dreaded workhouse in Kinsale. There’ll be soup kitchens along the way, with proceeds going to charity. All are welcome, even for one mile. Call 021 488 7222.


the G-Force

He’s won the US Open and played in three Ryder Cups, but Graeme McDowell would love to add the Irish Open to his trophy list. The golfer talks to David Robbins about his game, touring with Rory McIroy, and tying the knot. Photographs by Richard Gilligan. t is the day before the 2013 US Masters tournament in Augusta, Georgia. Graeme McDowell is just back at his apartment after a long day’s practice at the course. He is surrounded by the kind of entourage necessary these days for the modern professional golfer: his manager is there, his sports psychologist, and his short game coach has just arrived. But G Mac has had enough of Augusta for one day. “I am in zero Masters mode here right now,” he jokes, and our talk turns to the four days in June, when many of the world’s top golfers will gather to contest the Irish Open at Carton House in Maynooth,


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Co Kildare from June 27-30. When we talk, McDowell is ranked No 18 in the world (and shoots up ten places the following fortnight), is a Major winner (the US Open, Pebble Beach, 2010), has 465,000 followers on Twitter and 49,000 “Likes” on Facebook. He’s had ten tour wins and appeared in three Ryder Cups. Yet the relatively humble Irish Open title is one he would dearly like to add to that list of golfing glory. “It’s the history and tradition, and playing in front of your home fans, fans who are very educated and love their golf, and support us as much as they do, and they oftentimes don’t get as much chance to see us playing in the flesh. It’s important for any Irish player,” he

says. “We joke about it (the Irish Open) as being the fifth Major. That’s kind of a strong statement, but to win anyone’s national championship would be very, very prestigious, and certainly one I would love to add to my resumé.” It’s clear he loved playing in last year’s Irish Open, which was held on his backyard course of Royal Portrush in Co Antrim. In the runup to the event, there were worries about the venue attracting big crowds. In the end, it was the first tour event sold out in advance for all four days, and the crowd of 110,000 was a new tour record. “There’s always such a great buzz at the Irish Open, especially last year at Portrush, the support we got up there,” he enthuses. “Breaking all

June 2013

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the European attendance records, and just the amazing, amazing support all the Irish players got that week, it’s really special.” The Irish Open has been played at Carton House before, in 2005 and 2006, but rain almost stopped play both times. “To be fair, the weather both years was so awful that a lot of players, perhaps, didn’t really get to enjoy the golf course for what it is. It played particularly difficult.” The 33-year-old has spent most of his adult life in the US. He was at college there from 1999 to 2002, and then bought a home in Orlando, Florida in 2005. He plays the majority of his golf on the American PGA Tour, but a deep fondness is evident when he talks Graeme McDowell showed huge early promise. He taking a rare break began studying engineering at about golf in Ireland. from the green. Queen’s University in Belfast, “I always compare golf here in but transferred in 2002 to the America to golf back in Britain and University of Alabama, where he Ireland,” he begins. “Golf remains, studied engineering and economics. in most parts of the world, a very There, he bagged the award for most expensive and very elite sport. outstanding collegiate golf player of But in Ireland, it’s very accessible. the US, turning pro that same year Over here, they don’t have their – and almost immediately won the clubs set up for junior golfers … Scandinavian Masters. A win in the but in Ireland, the accessibility Horses Italian Open though prompted of the game, the way that golf and him to think bigger: he joined clubs in Ireland make the courses the US Tour, aiming to split juniors feel welcome and his time between the US really encourage them Golfers and horseracing fans to play the game really and Europe and become a can have the best of both worlds speaks volumes about the global force in the game. with a €50 special ticket that strength in depth that we “Big mistake,” he said admits them to the third round of have and the great players in interviews afterwards. the Irish Open on Saturday June that we continue “I was too immature 29, and to the Dubai Duty Free to produce.” and I was not a good Irish Derby at the Curragh Although he has an enough player. I was too on the same day. enduring affection for the inexperienced out there and courses near where he grew up – I wasn’t ready. But you can’t really Royal Portrush and Royal County know that until you know it.” Down – his favourite course in He began to miss cuts. He Ireland is a little further south. even broke a club on a course in “I don’t want to spread the word too Switzerland in 2007. “I had just much but, quietly, my favourite golf pulled-hooked a five-wood and course in Ireland is Waterville (Co I saw this root out of the corner of Kerry). I love it down there in that my eye and thought: ‘That looks part of the world, it’s just a magical, pretty cool.’ Boom! The club just magical part of Ireland, and the exploded in my hand. I remember hospitality I’ve received the few thinking afterwards: ‘Who is this times I’ve been to Waterville has guy? This is not me.’ It was a real hit been second to none, I reckon it’s of reality. I said to my caddy, Kenny, just a fantastic golf club,” he says. after the round that he should go McDowell learned his trade and find himself a real player, that at Rathmore Golf Club and I was done.” 30 |

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Good Work

About 18 months ago, Graeme McDowell’s Gmac Foundation contacted Our Lady’s Children’s Hospital in Crumlin, Dublin. “He wanted to get behind a paediatric project that involved children north and south,” recalls Orla Franklin, director of its cardio-thoracic services. “Every year, he flies out about ten children and their families for an all-expenses paid trip to Disneyworld. They stay in Disney’s Polynesian Resort,” she adds. “They talk about it for years afterwards.” The Gmac Foundation – which is supported by Aer Lingus – is McDowell’s charitable foundation. It runs the G-Mac Ball in New York, which raises funds for Our Lady’s Hospital. “He has really opened a window for us into corporate America and high-end sporting America,” says Orla. “He even auctions his time at the ball. I think it’s $50,000 for a round of golf with him. He also made a personal, individual donation of €200,000 to the cardiology unit. “And he still pops in when he is home to see his parents,” she adds. “He hasn’t fizzled out like some sponsors or donors. He’s amazing.” For more on the Gmac Foundation, see

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Things were so bad that he attended the 2006 Ryder Cup in the K Club as the lowest form of golfing life – a media representative. After the event, he decided to shape up. He moved back to Portrush, changed coach, caddy and management company, and spent longer on the range. Thankfully, things turned around. A couple of wins put McDowell in the team for the 2008 Ryder Cup at Valhalla in Kentucky. Then he sank the winning putt in the 2010 event in Celtic Manor in Wales and was part of the heroic European victory at Medinah in Illinois in 2012. “I still get a warm glow from the last two Ryder Cups,” he admits. “My last three, even. I’d put them up there, all three of them, as some of the greatest experiences of my professional career. There’s nothing quite like sharing that experience with the European Tour team.” There was also the small matter of winning the US Open at Pebble Beach in 2010, a victory which put him in exalted company (Jack Nicklaus, Tom Watson and Tiger Woods have won US Opens there). It also got him a slot on the iconic Late Show with David Letterman,

a lot from just watching him play and a guest appearance on the the game, and how good he is, and popular TV series Entourage. just how dynamic he is. You know, But despite his success, he says perhaps he learns from seeing my he doesn’t have the raw talent of experience and my preparation, and “thoroughbred” golfers. the way I think about the game. I “I am not a top pedigree think we have been a fairly good racehorse like a Rory McIlroy. influence on each other.” Things come easy to a guy like tOP HOLe When the season is over, that; he has talent coming out G-Mac’s favourite golf McDowell has another date of his ears. A guy like myself hole is the 13th at Augusta on his schedule: marriage has to dig it out a little more National. “It’s the third hole to his fiancée Kristin Stape. and maximise my game in of the Amen Corner stretch The pair met when interior other areas. I have always been and it’s just a phenomenal designer Kristin was employed a great putter, always been a risk-reward to decorate McDowell’s new very straight driver of the ball. par five ...” property at Lake Nona in Florida. I try to make the rest of the stuff “We’re getting married down in the work,” he has said. Bahamas at a resort called Baker’s There is affection in his voice Bay,” says McDowell. “I own a when he speaks about “Wee Mac”. piece of land there – I’m hoping The pair has had a kind of bigto build there at some point. It’s a brother-little-brother relationship great golfing community, [with] ever since McIlroy joined the Tour, beach-front properties and a real and they have played a lot of team kind of Bohemian, ocean living events together. “We learn a lot culture. We’re going to keep it from each other. I joked with the pretty small. Probably 30 guests: press the other day that the bigfamily and friends. It’s going to be brother-little-brother relationship a good weekend, with good friends, doesn’t work, you know, when little good fun in the evenings and be brother is beating up on big brother obviously one of the more special all the time. When he’s been moments of my life, so we’re playing as well as he has for the past very excited.” couple of years, he’s been pretty God, it seems, is in his Heaven, tough to live with. and all is right with Graeme “We’re very good friends. I learn McDowell’s world. Even his new restaurant venture in Orlando, Nona Blue, is thriving. He sounds relaxed, grounded and in control. The kind of player who just might do well around Augusta. In the end, he fails to make can easily make a six.” the cut at the Masters. He BeSt vAntAGe POIntS bo bounces back strongly with FOr SPeCtAtOrS “The 16th a play-off win at the RBC green. You can see players He Heritage in South Carolina; it drive from the 17th tee down br brings his on-course earnings to there and the 13th tee. to just over $9 million. He You can see the par 3 12th is timing a run, I think. He from there.” sh should be at the top of his game wHO wILL wIn? “A long co come those four days in June.

Shane Lowry’s Guide to the Montgomerie Course at Carton House BeSt SCOre “I’ve played it so often, it’s hard to remember. But I’ve scored in the mid-60s there.” FAvOUrIte HOLe “The 18th. A good par 5 and a great finishing hole.” tOUGHeSt HOLe “It’s probably the 5th, a 490-yard par 4, uphill and into the prevailing wind. It’s usually a drive and a four-iron to a small green.” DAnGer HOLe “The 13th might produce some drama. It’s 320 yards, a drivable par 4. You can make a two but you

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June 2013

hitter. Someone like Thomas Bjørn (winner in 2006 at Carton) or Stephen Dodd (winner in 2005 at Carton) have the game to do it well. It will take a great golfer, someone whose hit is long and straight.”

Shane Lowry is the touring pro at Carton House and winner of the 3 Irish Open in 2009.

The Irish Open is hosted by Carton Th Ho House, Maynooth, Co Kildare, and runs from June 27-30. Tickets are available from the-irish-open/carton-house/651952. Adult one-day tickets cost €31, adult season tickets cost €71, and children under 16 are admitted free with a paying adult.

• Open 7 days a week, all year round • Guided tours • Tutored tasting • Gift Shop • Café GLaSSES up To DrInkInG rESponSIBLy

Bury Quay, Tullamore, Co. Offaly, Ireland Tel: +353 (0) 57 93 25015 Email: Visit


Jo Mangan, The Big House Festival “Over the course of one day you might be intrigued by a floating sculpture in the grand entrance hall, serenaded by a blues band in the beautiful ballroom, wowed by a forest full of mechanical birds, entertained by theatrical characters or inspired by a lakeside classical concert …” Jo Mangan is describing the otherworldly delights of The Big House Festival, a three-day multidisciplinary extravaganza held on the dreamy Castletown estate in Co Kildare. As CEO of the Performance Corporation, Mangan is used to producing “theatrical adventures in surprising places”; take your pick from the sand dunes of Co Mayo, the medieval dungeons of Kilkenny City, and a fishing village in Kenya. But a festival packed with tailor-made oneoff events for a sole venue poses new challenges each year, not least the programming. “We put out an open call to artists to visit us at Castletown, who then propose what they want to create for the house or grounds,” says Mangan of the selection process. “This year we’ve had more than 400 responses, and the ideas are astonishingly good – it’s so hard choosing which ideas to programme and which to pass on.” It’s a tough process but one that works; the festival is now in its sixth year, thanks to Mangan and PC’s artistic director Tom Swift’s discerning eyes and ears. The Big House Festival at Castletown House, Co Kildare, runs from August 3–5, see big-house


festival makers

The festival season is in full swing, with events around Ireland to suit all tastes – and weather conditions. Lucy White slips into her wellies to chat to some of the organisers, and meets a compulsive reveller. Photographs by Steve Ryan. lame it on The Gathering. This year, Ireland boasts more summer festivals than you can shake a cagoule at, from fledgling upstarts (Longitude, The History Festival of Ireland, Ballymoe’s Town of a Thousand Beards) to veteran blockbusters (Electric Picnic, Street Performance World Championships, Cork Midsummer Festival, Dublin International Theatre Festival, Galway’s Film Fleadh and Arts Festival). Come rain or shine, the country’s hills, fields, city centres, country houses – and bogs: see page 44 – will be alive with the sound of music, theatre, sports, spoken word and cooking demonstrations, leaving us with a delicious dilemma such as: Rosses Point Shanty Festival in Co Sligo (June 14–16) or the Swift Satire Festival in Trim, Co Meath (July 4–7)? Who better then to quiz about Ireland’s thriving festival landscape than Mark Graham, a man who in summer 2011, decided to embark on a twelve-month, thrice-weekly odyssey of the nation’s shindigs – instead of saving for a mortgage. “I prepared for some serious scrimping,” he explains,


“until a much more reasonable and louder voice in my head said, ‘The banks have a worse credit rating than you. Could you not get a campervan and live on the road for a year?’” And so his madcap quest was born – as was his blog, documenting his frequently bonkers experiences, among them The Cow Dung Festival in Co Sligo’s Castleconnor (“some of the things I’ve seen make Father Ted look like a documentary ...”) and the Septemberlong Lisdoonvarna Matchmaking Festival (“a parallel universe that’s somewhere between the Ploughing Championships and Ayia Napa”). How he found the time – and Wi-Fi – to blog in between hallucinating during a pilgrimage on Lough Derg and turnip tossing in Ballydehob, is anyone’s guess. But one thing is certain: after spending a year on the road, he finds it very difficult to stay at home these days. “Knowing only too well the weird and wonderful things that are happening around the country, I have developed chronic FOMO – Fear of Missing Out,” he confesses. “The upside is that I’ve been crowned All Ireland Conker Champion,

won the Bucket Singing World Championships, came sixth in the Bog Snorkelling Championships and have a consistent pain in my face from smiling. It beats worrying about mortgage repayments.” He also developed a soft spot for Dunderry County Fair, Clonakilty’s Random Acts of Kindness and Durrow Scarecrow Championships. He has since developed A Year of Festivals in Ireland phone app. If you only go to one music festival this year, says Graham, Electric Picnic is “hard to beat” (August 30 to September 1, Stradbally, Co Laois), while the inaugural Longitude (July 19 to 21, Marlay Park, Rathfarnham, Co Dublin) has “one of the best line-ups this summer”, boasting performances from German rockers Kraftwerk, French indie outfit Phoenix and New York City boys Vampire Weekend. With so many events happening on our own doorsteps, you needn’t even travel far to get into the party spirit this festival season. For a full list of Ireland’s festivals and events, visit For more on The Gathering events, see

June 2013

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Ger O’Donovan, Random Acts of Kindness Festival

You know you’ve arrived when Goldie Hawn tweets about your inaugural event. Championed by A-listers and civilians alike, the Random Acts of Kindness (ROAK) Festival returns this July for a second year to Cork’s Clonakilty – a town better known for its black and white pudding, but now for its pop-up philanthropy. From street parties to locals giving away food and gifts, to a Tidy Town clean-up campaign, the festival’s aim of “bringing a smile to people’s faces and spreading some positivity” was duly met, says co-organiser Ger O’Donovan. So much so, in fact, news of the altruistic event went global, attracting not just the attention of Ms Hawn but a Californian radio station. Two European festival awards later (Project of the Year, and the Better Together campaign), RAOK is already in rude health. This year the event celebrates The Gathering, with workshops in speaking Irish, GAA and trad music, while street parties, storytelling workshops and a social media space known as The PARK have cross-generational appeal apropos of Irish hospitality. Says O’Donovan: “A phrase that’s associated with Ireland is Céad Míle Fáilte, one hundred thousand welcomes. The RAOK Festival embraces and endeavours to showcase this spirit.” Random Acts of Kindness in Clonakilty, Co Cork, runs from July 19–21, see

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Daniel Browne, Sea Sessions

“To me, highlights are always seeing 5,000 people partying on a beach where myself and my mates have grown up surfing. It’s a real alive time for the town, and celebrates life the way we like to live it.” Dan Browne is swelling with pride about Sea Sessions, a surfing-meets-music festival he co-founded in 2008 on the tantalisingly squally beach of Bundoran, Co Donegal. And who can blame him? Now in its sixth year, Sea Sessions has attracted around half a million punters, bagging a Best Small Festival 2011 award along the way. Browne and his mates launched the event to “reflect what was happening in the water with a party on land”, calling in performances by Kaiser Chiefs, Bell X1, Paul Weller, Grandmaster Flash, Happy Mondays and Fatboy Slim over the years. This year’s headliners are London alt.rockers Bastille, plus there’ll be turns from Fat Freddy’s Drop, Xavier Rudd, DJ Yoda, Gilles Petersen, The Original Rudeboys, Duke Special and La Galaxie. But of course it’s not only about the music; the Expression Session championship returns – the only surfing event in Ireland or the UK endorsed by the Association of Surfing Professionals Europe in which surfers compete for a cash prize of €3,000. The tide, and the stakes, are high … Sea Sessions at Bundoran, Co Donegal, runs from June 21–23, see

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Sian Smyth and David McWilliams, Dalkey Book Festival

Marquees, bookshops and theatre auditoriums are the usual homes for a literary festival. Not so the annual Dalkey Book Festival, held “in quirky and intimate venues, like the church, the chipper, cafes, pubs, schools – even a decommissioned Garda station – to help create a very special atmosphere,” explains David McWilliams, better known as an economist but also co-director of this event with his wife Sian Smyth. This year the coastal town welcomes Carl Bernstein, the American journalist who broke Watergate and, from closer to home, national treasure Edna O’Brien and Artemis Fowl author Eoin Colfer. The absence of the late Maeve Binchy – a Dalkey native – will be sorely felt this year, though commemorated with a tribute at the festival’s launch event on June 14. “Her last public appearance was in her beloved local, Finnegan’s, where she read a story written especially for and about the festival,” Smyth explains. “The opening event will celebrate Maeve’s life, remembering her as a writer and Dalkey resident.” Elsewhere, a programme of comedy, theatre, current affairs, history and music will appeal to more than just bookworms. Of highlights so far, Smyth says “really, it’s seeing the town packed full, and everyone in good humour. That said, it has been wonderful to have Seamus Heaney reading in the local church, Kevin Barry in the Masonic Hall, and Edgar Allen Poe performed in the medieval graveyard at midnight.” Dalkey Book Festival, Co Dublin, runs from June 14–16, see

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Brid Kirby, Waterford Harvest Festival

It’s rather fitting that the Waterford Harvest Festival (WHF) has flourished from home-grown sapling into Ireland’s largest food jamboree celebrating green, clean, local and seasonal produce through a lively programme of market stalls, pop-up farms, competitions, workshops and live entertainment. So successful has it become, its flagship site is moving from the South Quays to the more central Viking Triangle. Describing WHF’s average punter as “young families, empty nesters, active retired, young people, weekenders – foodies of all kinds”, festival director Brid Kirby is delighted to see the return of the twoday GIY (Grow It Yourself) Gathering, having blossomed “from its origins in the Lady Lane Library in Waterford City into an international organisation”. It will see more than 400 people learning about homegrown produce from guest speakers including Craig Rudman (River Cottage) and Charles Dowding (No Dig). With food scandals hitting the headlines every other week, GIY couldn’t be more zeitgeisty. But is the trend here to stay? “I hope so,” says Kirby. “People ask themselves, ‘is it good for me?’ about their food, but it is equally important to think about where it comes from and how it was made, both from a food chain and a local economy perspective. Ireland is so fortunate to have amazing food and drink producers and processors that we just love showcasing them at Harvest.” The Waterford Harvest Festival, Dungarvan, Co Waterford, runs from September 9–15, see

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“Cold, dirty, tough on legs, but great craic,” says Declan Connolly of one of Ireland’s filthier but no less family-oriented festivals. His brainchild: the Irish Bog Snorkelling Championships, which is exactly what it says on the tin, inviting kids and adults to don breathing equipment usually associated with the sea to dive into the murk and mulch of Co Monaghan’s Castleblayney. Er, was there alcohol involved when you hit on this idea, Declan? “No!” he insists. “One day I commented to a friend that the weather was so bad you couldn’t make out the bog from the fields, and he asked if I’d ever heard of bog snorkelling. I said never, went home, Googled it, and found this crazy sport going on in Wales – so I decided to give it a go here.” The Irish championship debuted in 2009 and now boasts an 24-metre mud slide, zorbing, bog bath racing, live music, barbecues and weekend camping. “There’s rumour of an Olympic event in 2016 …” Connolly jests, inviting the question of how one trains for such niche competitions. “Practise snorkel swimming in your local pool, only no conventional swimming strokes allowed. Then, throw some muck, grass and creepy crawlies from your garden into your bath to find your comfort zone.” Gah.

Irish Bog Snorkelling Championships at Alice’s Loft & Cottage, Co Monaghan, runs from September 13–15, see

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Photographed by Steve Ryan, assisted by Emma Doyle. Hertz Car Rental: Cara would like to thank Hertz for their assistance. For best car rental deals, visit and click on the Hertz icon, or call reservations from Ireland on 01 813 3844.

Declan Connolly, Irish Bog Snorkelling Championships

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Ireland’s Shannon region has a food landscape just as thrilling as its better-known neighbour, culinary hotspot Cork – provided you know where to look. Eoin Higgins meets some of the producers.

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Bring me that horizon – fisherman John O’Toole contemplating the day’s catch in Co Galway’s Clifden Bay.

April/MAy June 2013

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food | MIdWEST of IRELANd

f you are of a certain vintage (and nationality), mention of the Shannon/ Limerick region conjures up images of industrial innovation, economies of scale and the promise of an Irish commerical super province. At least that’s the story the geography textbooks of our childhood told us. Schoolbooks from the 1970s, as it turns out, don’t always give the full picture. Sure, the Shannon Free Zone has been a wonderful economic hub for the region – not least because of Shannon Airport’s strategic importance as a stepping-stone for US investment, and tourism, into Europe – but thriving industry and aeronautical excellence hasn’t been the only dynamo driving the region’s passions. A long tradition

PhotograPhs by Peter Dybowski & DaviD sciora


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of what may seem like a very modern aspiration – producing and consuming local, naturally produced food, in a traditional way – has hummed consistently beneath the sheen of innovative economics for thousands of years. And it’s that which pulls visitors to the counties of Limerick, Clare and south Galway in increasing numbers these days, driving its own economic miracle. And what’s not to like in this land of organic milk and artisan honey? A thriving market scene, oodles of producers, smart restaurants, considered accommodation and all this before you even begin to take a peek at the surrounding scenery – the physical beauty of the place is powerful – or, for that matter, peer into its fascinating history. At the centre of this geographic smorgasbord, Limerick city is a

Top, time standing still at Doonagore Castle in Co Clare. Above, our writer and gastronome Eoin Higgins. Right, an auld phone box in Bunratty Village.


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PhotograPhs by Peter Dybowski & DaviD sciora

Clockwise from left, Olivier Beaujouan from On The Wild Side; Limerick’s Milk Market gate; Thomas Ryan, owner of Pónaire Roastery & Coffee Bar; Sarah Woulfe of Sarah’s Pantry; Kirsti O’Kelly of Silver Darlings.

compact urban centre that once thrived on pork production – there’s a telling line in playwright Mike Finn’s homage to his native city, Pigtown, that reflects how snoutto-tail eating once reigned supreme here: “There was nothing left but the squeal!” And although those days of porcine efficiency may have diminished, the city can still be proud of the staunchly traditional butchers, bakers and grocers that continue to serve the citizens on a daily basis. The famous Limerick Milk Market becomes the spiritual home of all things food on a Saturday morning and it’s wise to swing by early to see what’s on offer. The market has a history that stretches back to the mid-19th century, yet is now one of the most modern allweather markets in the country. The recommended first port of call is for coffee at Pónaire Roastery & Coffee Bar – the only hand-crafted coffee roaster in the area – opt for their filter brew, which changes weekly 50 |

June 2013

and, by the taste of things, gs, is chosen by someone who knows their beans. Next, a uniquely regional al Limerick ham sandwich from Peter ter and Mary Ward’s very well-stocked ed Country Choice concession is a good bet. From artisan bakers to Irish cheesesellers, fresh fishmongers rs and organic fruit and vegetable producers, ucers, there is much to indulge the taste buds. As mentioned, meat and butchering have played a large nomic part in the city’s gastronomic ers history and local butchers still have a large slice of the food action, in and out of the market. One such meat seller, fifthgeneration Co Limerick farmer Noel O’Connor, from Pat O’Connor Meats on the city’s William Street, supplies restaurants and consumers not only locally but as far afield as Dublin and London. As Pat explains: “The business

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5 places to eat in Limerick ...

has been in my family for five generations and the techniques and methods that my forebears used I still use today.” O’Connor’s Limerick ham, for instance, is hand-cured in the same way as his family has done for generations before him. “We do all the curing ourselves, that way we have complete control over the process. We know what our customers want, pretty much what they have always wanted, so we tend to stick with that.” Ham is just one side of O’Connor’s interest, beef is the other. A visit to his farm in the rolling pastures of Raheen, Co Limerick, reveals a herd of happy, well-looked after cows and Noel O’Connor in his element amongst them. “Beef is my main passion; I am committed to the animals’ welfare and I allow the 52 |

June 2013

cattle to roam all year round.” The cows do indeed seem content, wandering freely through the field, feeding on the lush pasture (the rain brings some benefits) and looking like they are enjoying life, as much as cattle can. The dry-aged beef that comes from these beatific beasts (one can try it at Hamptons restaurant in Limerick city) is quite special and Noel believes his secret is, in part, “how you treat the animals, keep them happy, keep them outdoors feeding on the grass; and then there is the hanging process, and the way

Top, Co Limerick farmer Noel O’Connor and his bovine friends. Above, The Mustard Seed where the menu is top notch.

Hamptons Housed in The Savoy, Hamptons has the same attention to detail as the hotel. The menu is huge but suppliers have been carefully chosen, highlighting the best of the region. The décor is conducive to relaxed, convivial dining and, in the kitchen, wood-fired Robata ovens and grills ensure steaks, in particular, get the treatment they deserve. 061 609 325; The Mustard Seed In its romantic setting at Echo Lodge in Ballingarry, The Mustard Seed is a charming, finedining restaurant, half an hour’s drive from Limerick city. Front of house, Dan Mullane is a consummate host, while in the kitchen Angel Pirev expertly gives local, artisan and often organic ingredients a classy going over. 069 68 508; Cornstore Situated on Thomas Street, this is yet another Limerick city restaurant with a keen eye on the quality produce available from local suppliers. Casual and lively, the relaxed atmosphere attracts many of the city’s younger diners, the cocktail bar being a particular hotspot at weekends. The menu concentrates on fresh seafood and wellexecuted steaks. 061 609 000; Brasserie one The chic, boutique townhouse hotel, No.1 Pery Square, is a destination in itself. In the elegant dining room, service is attentive yet unobtrusive. The menu sports rustic and classic French fare and again the creative use of the best of local artisan produce is commendable. 061 402 402; Zest! Located in the Limerick City Gallery of Art, Zest! is a light, airy and architecturally pleasing café specialising in fresh creative salads, tasty tartlets, good teas and coffees, and other typical lunchtime staples. The perfect spot in which to grab a quick, good quality lunch, or chat with a tea or coffee and something sweet – simple, yet considered seems to be the ethos here. 061 319 449;

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This page, peace and quiet in Clifden Bay. Opposite, clockwise from left, The Cliffs of Moher never cease to amaze; the dramatic beauty of the Burren’s Mullaghmore Mountain; St Tola organic cheesemonger, Siobhan ní Ghairbhith.

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Other than food ...





Bunratty Castle The widely retold anecdote about the tourist who asked why the 15th-century castle had been built so close to the motorway is a good yarn, which may or may not be true, but the castle itself is a treat for history buffs to explore. A separate attraction, Folk Park, which surrounds the castle, recalls life in 19th-century Ireland through a realistic recreation of village life. ( The Cliffs of Moher The famous cliffs are a huge draw for visitors to the region and, as well-known as they are, it is hard not be impressed by their awesomeness. Along with the experience of the cliffs themselves, the Atlantic Edge exhibition in the underground interpretive centre is also outstanding. Broken down into four principal themed areas exploring different elements of the mighty Cliffs of Moher: Ocean, Rock, Nature, Man, this is a fine way to spend an

afternoon. ( The Burren One of the largest examples of a limestone pavement in Europe (the area covers over 250 square kilometres), a trip here is like visiting an alien world. Aside from its geological uniqueness, the Burren National Park is also richly historical – there are more than 90 megalithic features in the area. ( Limerick City Gallery of Art Directed and curated by Helen Carey, the gallery is one of Ireland’s foremost contemporary art spaces. If contemporary art is not your scene, then the permanent collection may be; more than 800 important works from Ireland from the 18th to the 20th centuries make this a fascinating destination for all visual arts lovers. ( gallery. For more info on events and places to visit, see

they are butchered. A lot of modern, more industrial outfits use water in the butchering process and that, in my opinion, is not going to produce great beef. The water begins to rot the meat more or less instantly. And our ageing process is important too; we dry-age for about three weeks. Even though they take more time and effort, the old traditional ways are still the best.” Leaving Limerick city and county and heading further north into Co Clare, the landscape changes dramatically as one heads towards the almost lunar landscape of the Burren, one of the largest

limestone pathways in Europe, but the principles of natural food production remain as downto-earth with many producers around here too. One of the most successful, St Tola organic goat cheese farm in Ennistymon, is an excellent stop-off on the food trail. A tour of the production floor with director Siobhan ní Ghairbhith is fascinating. The cheeses were originally made by her neighbours, Meg and Derrick Gordon, who developed the quality and helped establish St Tola as a gourmet cottage industry. As Siobhan recalls: “It was important for Meg and Derrick that the production would stay in the area, so I had recently given up teaching and was keen to do something with farming. And it all started from there.” Since then St Tola has developed into an international business using state of the art, yet traditional, production

Love Gourmet FOOD LOVERS Returning for a third outing is urants in the Week, an annual food festival across 20 top resta menus at Limerick and Shannon region offering special between €250-€45 per person. June 1-9; lovegourm June 2013

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techniques. All of the cheeses are certified organic and have won a bushel of awards. A small producer using traditional methods, Siobhan’s ambition is quite impressive, bolstered by a desire to change the face of food in Ireland. “We should be a completely organic island, as it would set us apart from every other country in the world in terms of food quality. The perception of Ireland is already one of naturalness so we should strive further towards that.” It sounds like a tall order but it is certainly an interesting idea. Ireland, the organic island, is as enticing a concept as any I’ve heard on my travels, and, I am sure, it would be equally so for the many visitors who travel here each year. The Burren Smokehouse, in Lisdoonvarna, was set up in 1989 by Birgitta and Peter Curtin, around the same time the international Slow Food movement was beginning to bloom. The family-run business has since accrued international renown, most famously for its cold- and hotsmoked salmon. A dedicated local food enthusiast, and firm believer in the produce of the area, Birgitta also has a huge passion for ecotourism. “We are members of the Burren

Ecotourism Network. The Burren is a fragile ecosystem so, although we thrive on food tourism, we believe in tourism with care, with an eye to sustainability, making sure that what we do is not taking more from the environment than it gives back.” Common sense really and here in Clare, that idea seems to have taken hold with most producers. Leaving Co Clare, crossing over into Co Galway, again there is a

Above, the craggy landscape of Doolin, and right, Birgitta Curtin, one half of The Burren Smokehouse team. Below left, the smart Georgian townhouse hotel No.1 Pery Square.

Stay at ... Splurge A beautiful townhouse on Limerick’s smartest Georgian terrace, Patricia Coughlan’s No.1 pery

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Square has been a muchwelcomed addition to the city. Rooms are tastefully designed, spacious and have all the luxuries one would expect from a Condé Nast Traveller recommended destination. The interior has been fully restored, with all its original architectural features expertly reinstated in precise detail. Rooms from €119. (1 Pery Square, Limerick, 061 402 402; Midprice Run with precision and acute attention to detail, The Savoy Hotel in Limerick city is a stylish urban oasis. Rooms have a glamorous sheen, a reminder that this was once a five-star Marriott,

and carry all the conveniences one would expect. The bar is a pleasant place in which to unwind for pre-dinner cocktails or, during the day, afternoon tea in the Liszt lounge is a very civilised affair. Rooms from €99. (Henry Street, Limerick, 061 448 700; BudgeT Nestled in 20 acres of parkland, radisson Blu Hotel & Spa limerick is something of an oasis just 3km from the city centre and 10km from Shannon airport. The four-star property boasts a particularly snazzy Rain Spa and Wellness Clinic, free Wi-Fi for all guests, Porters restaurant, Quench bar – and fine views of the Woodcock

Mountains. Rooms from €57.60 per night (Ennis Road, Limerick, 61 456 200, hotel-limerick) Aidan McGrath and his wife Kate Sweeney have created a delightful B&B in Co Clare with a warm welcome, great food and pleasant interior. Wild Honey inn has attracted recommendations far and wide so booking well in advance is recommended. All 14 rooms are cosily appointed and have good views over the surrounding countryside. Rooms from €40 pps including a good, hearty breakfast. (Kincora Road, Lisdoonvarna, Co Clare, 065 707 4300;


’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Centuries of Dublin history surround the world-renowned O’Neill’s. Just around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and the Molly Malone Statue, trade has flourished uninterrupted for over 300 years. O’Neill’s is conveniently set in the heart of Dublin.

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PhotograPhs by richard gilligan / illustration by chris Judge

dramatic shift in the landscape as the impressive Twelve Bens mountain range looms over magnificent Galway bay en route to the next destination, Clifden. An overnight stay at the delightfully eccentric Abbeyglen Hotel – with its raucous nightly sing-song and wonderful, oldschool restaurant serving classically prepared seafood – is an evening well

spent, and a breath-taking few hours fishing for mackerel and collecting lobsters and crabs from a traditional currach around Clifden Bay are a heavenly way to spend a morning. Just ask the Abbeyglen folks to organise it. Well-known, local archaeologist Gerry MacCloskey, together with Brian Hughes from the Abbeyglen

Above left, Connemara archaeologist Gerry MacCloskey cooking up a fishy treat. Below, a bird’s eye view of Clifden Bay from Lower Sky Road, Co Galway.

Hotel, run Connemara Safari (, an islandhopping boat excursion that takes visitors around the three islands of Inish Bofin, Inish Turk and Clare Island. These locations, Gerry reveals, are the sites of the earliest known settlement of Neolithic farmers on the island. Ireland’s first farmers most likely made their way from northern France, before settling on the west coast of Ireland. The surrounding scenery is astounding and, when the sunshine glints off the rock pools scattered along the fine strand of the bay, it seems a fitting end to this food trail to have come back to the very beginnings of farming on the island. Methods have certainly changed since the first people began farming here but it’s likely they wouldn’t be too shocked by today’s farming ethos: naturally-produced food, mostly for local consumption is still, thankfully, very much the order of things.

Hertz car rental Cara would like to thank hertz for their assistance. for the best car rental deals, visit aerlingus. Com and click on the hertz icon. or call reservations from ireland, 01 813 3844.

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GOING DUTCH The long-awaited reopening of the Rijksmuseum is reason enough to visit Amsterdam. Daragh Reddin takes a spin through its galleries and museums, and avoids cultural overload by sampling the hopping nightlife. Photographs by Anthony Woods.

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The bike is king – or queen – in Amsterdam and much the best way to get around. Local Julia Herfst saddles up.

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PhOTOgRAPh cOuRTesy Of Rijksmuseum / PeDRO PegenAuTe

ou are in a most privileged position then, young man,” my taxi driver declares with characteristic Dutch solemnity when I tell him the main purpose of my visit to Amsterdam: to attend a preview of the Rijksmuseum (Museumstraat 1, +31 20 6621 440,, the national museum of the Netherlands. After ten years of extensive renovation and restoration – running several years and millions of euro over budget – the most exalted attraction in the Netherlands has finally reopened its doors and the atmosphere in the city, days ahead of the official launch, borders on the reverential. Under the aegis of Spanish architecture firm Cruz Y Ortiz, the neo-Gothic museum’s once funereal interior has morphed into an airy, light-filled and eminently welcoming space, which we access through a stunning new atrium off Museum Square. Such is the sway of the Dutch cycling lobby that, in an only-in-Amsterdam decision and much to our amusement, bicycles


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continue to whizz through a glass corridor that divides the museum in two. Across four floors and 80 galleries, the building positively embraces the visitor; its pleasingly navigable design is the most striking facet of a sensitively executed overhaul. Exhibits, once dotted about in a somewhat higgledypiggledy fashion, are now presented chronologically from the Middle Ages in the basement through to the 20th Century on the uppermost floors. The jewel in the crown of the collection is, as it has been since the museum opened in 1885, Rembrandt’s compelling “Night Watch”, which, like a secular altar, beckons us from the end of a series of rooms known as the Eregalerij (the Hall of Fame). The once divisive masterpiece, a large and tumultuous group portrait


From top, the funereal interiors have been transformed into an airy, welcoming space at the Rijksmuseum, which houses Rembrandt’s compelling “Night Watch”.

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of a militia company – actually local merchants playing at being soldiers – is certainly a jaw-dropper; however, the other works from the Dutch Golden Age that flank it are no less remarkable. Vermeer’s enigmatic “Milkmaid” is only a fraction of the size, for instance, but the unassuming kitchen servant bewitches this visitor as, deep in reverie, she sets about the mundane task of pouring milk, which, courtesy of Vermeer’s meticulous brushstroke, is represented by the teeniest trickle of white paint. Nearby, Frans Hals’s beguiling portrait of the wealthy Isaac Massa lolling against his equally jovial wife, Beatrix van der Laen, is a gem; his subjects pose in such an exceptionally candid and contemporary fashion that you half expect Isaac to reach into his pocket and whip out a vibrating iPhone at any moment. Though this magnificent collection of 17th-century Dutch art is the major attraction for most visitors, there are exquisite works and curios around every corner. In a display case in an adjacent room,

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Sleep at ... BUDGET For a unique, not-for-theprudish experience consider a night or two at the guesthouse of Xavieria Hollander, the former madam and author of The Happy Hooker. The decor in Xaviera’s Happy House (Beethovenstraat, +31 20 673 3934; is, as you’d expect, a little on the naughty side. Rooms from €100 A 300-year-old converted canal house, right, Seven Bridges Hotel (Reguliersgracht 31, +31 20 623 1329; is chockablock with antique and Dutch artisanal furniture – and free Wi-Fi. Rooms get smaller with each storey – and the stairwell is practically vertical – but the ambience is delightful, the breakfast-in-bed sumptuous, and the location fab for eats and drinks. Rooms from €95. MID-RANGE Centrally located, only minutes away from the Rijksmuseum, the elegant and modern Park Hotel (Stadhouderskade 25, +31 20 671 1222; has a beautiful lobby,

a collection of woolly beanies, many striped in bright colours, look as though they have just fallen off the heads of revellers in the Red Light district; they are, in fact,

with shelf after shelf of handsome art and design books. Eye-poppingly comprehensive buffet breakfasts, with unlimited prosecco, will bolster guests until dinnertime. Rooms from €159. SPLURGE The newest five-star in town, the 122-room Andaz (Prinsengracht 587, +31 20 523 1234;, opened late last year in a former public library. Designed by Dutch architect Marcel Wanders, it’s a show-stopper, with rooms boasting bed-side sinks, oversize orange easy chairs and modern art flourishes. Rooms from €343.

Modernist pieces by Ellsworth Kelly and Matisse, mounted, light up the Stedelijk Museum.

the hats worn by whaling crews in Spitsbergen in the 17th century and were, miraculously, preserved beneath the ice in perfect condition. Or what about the heart-wrenching terracotta bust of the Virgin Mary from sculptor Pietro Torrigiani in a collection devoted to the Middle Ages and Renaissance art? Though there’s a modest collection of 20th-century art on the top floor, it pales – in terms of both quality and quantity – in comparison to what’s on display at the nearby Stedelijk Museum (Museumplein 10, +31 20 573 2911; Like the Rijksmuseum, “the bath tub”, as Amsterdammers have fondly dubbed this mecca to modernism, recently reopened after a ten-year revamp. Where the former has gone in for muted grey walls, the Stedelijk has been given a uniform white-box treatment, with a new room on the ground floor devoted to a stellar permanent display focusing on Dutch industrial design. Elsewhere one of Matisse’s last endeavours, an enormous paper cut-out completed when his eyesight was failing, is but one of the highlights in a collection boasting major works from Mondrian,

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Left, canal enthusiast – and director of Het Grachtenhuis, the new museum devoted to their history – Vincent Verkoelen. Below, Suzanne Veldink, assistant curator of the Van Gogh Museum, bottom, which has just returned to its home in the Museumplein.

Picasso and Van Gogh. First-time visitors might be wary of cultural overload but there are several bijou museums – Anne Frank House chief among them – peppered about Amsterdam that are an ideal starting point for the tentative sight-seer. The city’s famed canal ring turns 400 years old this year, making it an ideal time to visit one of the city’s newest and most unassuming attractions, Het Grachtenhuis (Herengracht 386, +31 20 421 1656; This small museum, housed across four rooms in an immaculately preserved 17th-century residence that affords gorgeous watery views, is dedicated to the history of the canals and presents a thoughtful multimedia exhibition that takes a mere 40 minutes to complete. Make sure to spend a little time peering into the windows of a magical, oversize dolls house that presents scenes of domestic life, replete with holograms, across almost five 66 |

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centuries. The museum’s director, Vincent Verkoelen, is an enthusiastic ambassador for the city’s architectural heritage. “By the end of the 16th century,” he explains, “the city of Amsterdam was flourishing and its promise of great wealth lured a flood of merchants, craftsmen and fortune hunters to the city. Growth was inevitable and, after lengthy consultations with local entrepreneurs, the canal ring was realised. This urban expansion of the three canals – Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht – around the old city would become known as the best city plan ever conceived, which has been underscored by its inclusion on the Unesco World Heritage List.” Of course the only way to appreciate truly these glorious waterways, which, unlike their oppressive Venetian equivalent, are cheerful and enticing, is to take a restorative walk or cycle along their banks. The long-established Mac Bike ( is a safe bet

The Van Gogh Museum ... Though the Van Gogh museum is closed for renovation on our visit, we’re lucky enough to take in some 75 of its masterpieces temporarily on display at the Hermitage Amsterdam – a former nursing home by the Amstel river that specialises in blockbuster exhibitions. The curators have taken this opportunity to present the work of the venerated post-Impressionist thematically rather than chronologically, thus affording a rare opportunity to see gloomy still lifes from Van Gogh’s early years sidle up to the joyous, colour-saturated images of his glory years. It makes for an astounding contrast. Last month, the Van Gogh Museum celebrated its 40th birthday by returning to its rightful home in the museumplein (Paulus Potterstraat 7, +31 20 570 5200;


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Amsterdam is far from the most pocket-friendly European city to visit but wandering along its astoundingly picturesque canals costs nothing. They offer truly evocative views by day and by night it’s an experience to cherish. Tulips may be synonymous with Amsterdam but there’s far more flora on display at Hortus Botanicus (Plantage Middenlaan 2a, +31 20 625 9021;, one of the oldest botanical gardens in the world. The Jewish experience under occupation is refracted through the tale of Anne Frank, whose life is poignantly commemorated in the house (Prinsengracht 263, +31 20 556 7105; where she and her family took refuge. Arrive early to avoid crowds. West of the city centre, between Prinsengracht and Lijnbaansgracht, lies Jordaan, a formerly working-class neighbourhood that’s now a lovely bohemian enclave with galleries and trendy independent fashion outlets. Go through an unassuming little doorway on the Spui and you find yourself in a little haven of medieval serenity: Begijnhof (entrance on Gedempte Begijnensloot, +31 20 623 3565; is a former sanctuary for members of the Beguines, a lay Catholic sisterhood.

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Above, this year marks the 400th birthday of the canal ring. Below, from left, the house where Anne Frank took refuge is now a museum; one of the oldest botanical gardens in the world, Hortus Botanicus.

for short-term rentals, while a trip on the canal bus (, which links all the main tourist attractions, offers seductive views at a leisurely pace. To visit Amsterdam and eschew sampling its nightlife would be a shame. Even if the raucous goings-on in the Red Light District – which is, as it happens,

corralled within a handful of streets – aren’t to your liking, the city’s social scene is both diffuse and defuse. Upmarket bars are on Reguliersdwarsstraat but if you fancy something a little more alternative check out Melkweg, The Milky Way (Lijnbaansgracht 234a, +31 20 531 8181; melkweg. nl) a one-time dairy that’s now a huge indie gig venue and gallery space. On our visit we enter a sea of asymmetrical haircuts, drainpipe denims and cut-glass Dutch cheekbones, while a louche, all-girl electronica act ply their wares on stage. To the front, there’s a very good and inexpensive restaurant, Eat @ Jo’s, where we gorge on top lamb meatloaf washed down with local beer. After a little sleuthing I manage to track down its owners, who are two female friends from Milwaukee and not – as they initially insist – transsexual Dutch brothers with a passion for Latex.

If that’s something you are into, however, suffice it to say the city has something for you. Church (Kerkstraat 52; clubchurch. nl), for instance, is a gay nightclub where the star attraction is drag queen Jennifer Hopelezz. If you need, er, Dutch courage visit on Thursdays when drinks cost €2.50 and the straight-friendly crowd is decidedly less lascivious. For a far more neighbourly vibe, however, Cafe De Koe (Marnixstraat 381, +31 20 625 4482;, with its easy-going, mostly local clientele, is a much gentler bet and the smiley staff are happy to shoot the breeze

Shop at ...

Top, Noorder Spullen, just one of the stores full of eclectic goodies and attitude. Above, Dirk Derks at Concerto, the hotspot for vinyl addicts.

The ubiquitous department store Hema ( started life in 1926 – think M&S without the forbidding prices – and is the perfect spot if you’re searching for a thoughtful souvenir. Stocking everything from stationery to cheering soft furnishings, it’s also great for simple clothing staples. If you count High Fidelity as one of your favourite movies, you’ll have to be dragged kicking and singing from Concerto (Utrechtsestraat 52-60, +33 20 624 5467;, a large and collegiate record store with a vast vinyl collection and regular in-store readings and gigs. Vovnjau (Willemsparkweg 68, +31 20 772 0825; is named after the Danish word for “woof” and pet lovers will find the ideal present for their hairy but cosmopolitan little friend in this wonderfully barking boutique. Choose from such doggie must haves as a faux-snakeskin collar and Jimmy Chew stiletto heels.

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Eat at ...

Movie buffs ffs should head to the iconic Eye e Film Institute, e, above, Afke Van n Der Werff at laidback Café de Koe, right. t.

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with newbies. The Kalverstraat is the place to head to if you’re keen to dust off the credit card but, with its surfeit of pedestrians and familiar shop fronts, it may prove as dispiriting an experience as a visit to any European high street. Its antithesis is the Nine Streets area in the Canal District, where you’ll find dozens of headscratchingly random little stores, one devoted to toothbrushes, another to juggling equipment. In spring, markets tend to pop up across the ci city but Noordermarkt is the mo most scenic and it’s great for a morning-after-the-nightbefo before rummage if vintage fare is yo your bag. While there are far more rewa rewarding ways of punching in a few hours in the city than taking in a movie, a visit to th the Eye Film Institute, whic which opened early last year to mu much fanfare in Amsterdam Noor Noord, is well worth considering (IJpro (IJpromenade 1, +31 20 589 1400; A free threeminute ferry ride from the jetty

BUDGET An Amsterdam institution since it opened in 1940, Van Dobben (Korte Reguliersdwarsstraat 5-9, +31 20 624 4200; is the go-to diner for inexpensive Dutch fare and, because it opens late, it’s ideal for post-boozing soakage. A Van Dobben Croquet Sandwich is a must. From €10 per head. MID-RANGE The octagonal tower on top of In De Waag (Nieuwmarkt +31 20 422 7772;, a 500-year-old Gothic gatehouse, was once the real-life scene for Rembrandt’s “The Anatomy Lesson of Dr Nicolaes Tulp”. The cavernous venue might scream “tourist-trap” but the food is uniformly excellent and the candlelit interior suitably tranquil. From €30 per head. SPLURGE Chef Onno Kokmeijer garnered not one but two Michelin stars for his inventive culinary creations at the 23rd-floor restaurant Ciel Bleu (Ferdinand Bolstraat 333, +33 20 678 7450; The motto is “taste with your eyes, see with your mouth” but, for the financially straitened, “pay through the nose” might feel more accurate. From €110 per person.

behind Centraal Station will bring you to the complex on the bank on the opposite side. Check out the stunning, open-plan café, where you can take in the views with a strong coffee and an oven-fresh madeleine, before wandering the free, filmthemed exhibits in the basement. Pleasant as the experience is you’ll be keen to take the ferry back to the mainland to wander the impossibly pretty canals, which, in a city in constant flux, have changed scarcely a whit in more than 400 years. AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN AND CORK TO AMSTERDAM DAILY.

A watercolour painting by Róisín O’ Shea © 2012


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Smart city If Boston is the grand old dame of Massachusetts, Cambridge is its cooler, nerdier brother. Lucy White explores the home of Harvard and MIT, and finds a buzzing social scene. Photographs by Kristin Teig.

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A rower’s-eye view of Harvard University from the Charles River.

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City break | Cambridge ma

stretch out my legs on the hallowed steps of Harvard University’s Memorial Church, New England chowder in my belly and the taste of root beer on my tongue. Sunlight cuts a hypnotic swathe through honey locusts, oaks and rare elm trees, providing welcome shade for students reading, picnicking, chatting, rushing (or dawdling) to their next lecture. This may be the closest I’ll ever get to genius. Cambridge is a city so smart that more than 73 per cent of its 106,000 plus population has a graduate or four-year bachelor degree. That’s a lot of smartypants, most working in the IT or education industries. But despite its scholarly prowess, Cambridge is much less formal than its British namesake; its typically New England architecture is homely and inviting – huge wooden colonialera houses, mostly split into condos


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– its Mini Cooper and Subaru SUV-driving residents are warm and effusive. There are also a lot of beards – a mainstay of the start-up entrepreneur. Cambridge is around five kilometres from Suffolk County’s Boston, the wide, ink-blue Charles River bisecting the two cities. The 26-kilometre-long thoroughfare Massachusetts Avenue – or, colloquially, Mass Ave – connects both and then some, linking Harvard, Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), Brandeis and Boston universities. The locals do love their cars but subway system “The T” ( is pretty cheap and efficient, serving Cambridge on the red line and Boston city on the green. There seems to be some rivalry between Cambridge’s different

Top, sunny side up on campus in Harvard. Above, Lucy White admiring panoramic views of Boston Common from The Ritz-Carlton.

“squares” – not really squares at all but commercial intersections that serve as a centre for each district. Kendall aka Technology Square is the home of MIT; Central – birthplace of Ben Affleck – is a gentrified hotspot of cosmopolitan eateries; Harvard, of university fame; Porter, that’s shared with the neighbouring city of Somerville, Cambridge’s hipper, artier sister (see page 82); hipster favourite Inman, whose Legal Sea Foods restaurant dates back to the 1950s and has served New England chowder at every presidential inauguration since 1981. It is also home to the appropriately named lifestyle emporium Boutique Fabulous (1309 Cambridge Street, Inman Square; – who wouldn’t want 3D cat playing cards? – and Lechmere Square, in a perpetual state of redevelopment.

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11-12 Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6713922 The Quays, Temple Bar situated in the heart of Temple Bar is one of Dublin’s liveliest pubs with a great mix of locals and tourists. Live Irish Traditional Music everyday makes the pub a magnet for those of us looking for a bit of craic and with a restaurant on the first floor.


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My first introduction to bustling Harvard is breakfast at nearby Clover (Harvard Square, Holyoke Street;, a cult-status, fast-food, vegetarian café that would tickle the appetite of the staunchest carnivore. As cacophonous as a Red Sox game – when your order is ready, staff shout out your name from the open kitchen – Clover is less a fourleaf lucky charm and more a savvy enterprise by Ayr Muir who, with chef Rolando Robledo, has transformed a humble start-up at MIT into four sit-in eateries and eleven food trucks: menus change daily and seasonally, with 30-60 per cent of its largely locally sourced ingredients organic. I choose the soy BLT, which, if it’s good enough for Boston mayor Thomas Menino, who heralded it “the best BLT sandwich in Boston”, it’s good enough for me. (Caffeine fiends will love the individually filtered coffee, below). Seeing Harvard itself is a pinchme moment, its historic, literary and cinematic mythology now a high-definition reality. Well, ish. Daniel C French’s (1850-1931) bronze sculpture of John Harvard

Stay at ...

(1607-1638) is also known as The Statue of the Three Lies because a) John didn’t found the university, only bequeathed a one-off sum of money to it, b) the inscription date is wrong, and c) it’s actually in the likeness of student Sherman Hoar (1860-1898). Such nuggets can be heard on any one of the free, student-led guided walking tours (+1 617 495 1573; over a cacophony of snapping cameras as tourists have their photo taken rubbing John Harvard’s foot – the superstition being that it’ll bring you luck or, depending on who you speak to, bring you back to Boston. The university is a literal and figurative hotspot during summer, when temperatures nudge over 90°F. One can always cool off, though, at the finely curated Harvard Museum of Natural History (26 Oxford Street, Cambridge;, a three-storey curio of zoological galleries, meteorites, dinosaurs and a 4,400-strong collection of jawdroppingly intricate glass flowers, commissioned by the professor of Harvard’s Botanical Museum and Left, Zachary Kuchnicki making coffee at cult-status café Clover, whose soy BLT, right, is a hit with Boston’s mayor Thomas Menino.

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COLONIAL Within walking distance of Harvard, and less than ten minutes away from Porter Square T station, The Mary Prentiss Inn is a respectfully restored mansion dating back to 1843 with 20 charming rooms, lovely staff and a fine breakfast (6 Prentiss Street, Cambridge, +1 617 661 2929, maryprentissinn. com; double rooms from $180). VICTORIAN A handy, short walk away from the MIT/ Kendall red line T station, The Kendall Hotel is, quite novelly, a converted Victorian fire station. A member of the Historic Hotels of America, antique and repro furnishings abound – and, its Black Sheep restaurant is championed by local cleverclogs Noam Chomsky (350 Main Street, Cambridge, +1 866 566 1300,; double rooms from $212). SCENIC Located on the river Charles, the Hyatt Regency boasts stunning views of downtown Boston – ask for a river-facing room if you can. Also, the hotel runs free shuttle buses to MIT, Harvard and Kendall Square (575 Memorial Drive, Cambridge, 1800 233 1234,; double rooms from $212).

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created between 1886 and 1936. While on campus, check out the Carpenter Center on Quincy Street, famous for being the only building in North America designed by Le Corbusier. Overloaded by facts on molluscs, minerals and Modernism, you’ll need a boost: head to historic Brattle Street on Harvard Square and choose between cupcakes at Sweet (, or chocolatiers LA Burdick for chocolate mice so cute you may be unable to eat them ( Sugared up, we browse the rails at boutique Mint Julep and quirky jewellery at Anthropologie before trying on straw boaters in vintage-style milliners Goorin Bros (, established in 1895, whose friendly sales guy tells us of their in-store hat and wine soirées. Pretty Brattle Square Florist ( – which has been in business for more than 100 years – is so temptingly lovely, I almost buy a bouquet to take back to my hotel … But don’t leave the square before checking out Harvard Book

Store (1256 Massachusetts Avenue;, which dates back to 1932 and holds regular guest author events. Naturally, as an academic hub there are plenty of places to eat and drink in Cambridge. Belly Wine Bar and Charcuterie – housed in a 19th-century mill on Kendall Square – is a feast of rillettes, terrines, fine vino and cheeses.

Eat at ... AL FRESCO Russell House Tavern (14 JFK Street, Cambridge, +1 617 500 3055; is a popular haunt, not least in summer when its bijou patio is in full swing. Book a table for a weekend brunch, where you can wash down a hickory smoked pork loin sandwich with a Serrano pepper infused Bloody Mary. COMFORT EATING Menus change daily at Southernstyle dinner hotspot Hungry Mother (233 Cardinal Medeiros Avenue, Kendall Square, Cambridge, +1 617 499 0090;, its chintzy décor comforting yet contemporary. Arrive to dine by 6pm and get cinema tickets for just $8 each.

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FIESTA FOOD Tequila flight anyone? Somerville’s Mexican bar and restaurant The Painted Burro (219 Elm Street, Davis Square, +1 617 776 0005; was extended earlier this year and is still busier than a mariachi ditty. From its authentic tortillas and tacos, to to-die-for chipotle corn, this place is a must.

Clockwise from top left, Kuamane Brown of LA Burdicks chocolatiers; fedora chic at hat shop Goorin Bros; designer Baleigh Acebo at Mint Julep boutique; amazing eats at Somerville’s The Painted Burro.

American bartenders know how to make a mean cocktail (must be those Prohibition genes), so my mixology odyssey starts at Cuchi Cuchi (795 Main Street, Cambridge;, one part bar/ restaurant, one part courtesan’s dressing room. The menu is a burlesque of bygone tipples and tasting plates from across the globe, while staff are ostensibly




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One to watch: Somerville If Cambridge is where the IT crowd and boffins reside, nextdoor neighbour Somerville is home of the fine artist, the documentary filmmaker, the festival curator. In fact, according to its mayor Joseph A Curtatone, only New York has more artists per capita than the city of Somerville. With a cosmopolitan population of 75,754 – the 17th most densely populated city in the US, behind Cambridge at No 13 – it is fast emerging as an up-and-coming area for creative and hipster types. And this is where they go: the Farmer’s Market every Wednesday on Davis Square; vintage shopping in secondhand/upcycled shops Found (255 Elm Street; and Magpie (416 Highland Avenue;; Backbar for an

vaudevillian. Diners are more diversely attired, some in vintage finery, others in jeans and sweaters – an accurate cross-section of Massachusetts’s multifarious and easy-going dress code. I reapply my starlet-red lipstick, clink my Satan’s Whiskers with my pal’s Corpse Reviver and get stuck into lubricious garlic shrimps, fiery Mexican deepfried tomato, and plump mushroom pancakes lavished with sour cream

aperitif before indulging in a five- or seven-course tasting menu at its eatery Journeyman (both 9 Sanborn Court, Union Square, backbarunion. com); Dali, the Surrealist, tapas bar brother of Cambridge’s Cuchi Cuchi (415 Washington Street), and Spoke Wine Bar (89 Holland Avenue) for cheese and charcuterie. Tourists may be spotted trying to find “the Good Will Hunting table” in Irish pub The Burren (247 Elm Street;, while a tour of the Taza Chocolate Factory is lipsmackingly good (561 Windsor Street; tazachocolate. com/tours). Also, Etsy fans take note: every Saturday from 11am to 4pm until September 21 there is an arts and craft fair on Assembly Row along the lovely river Mystic (

Clockwise from above, cocktails at Backbar; art plein air; Boston Brew Tours’ Chad Brodsky at Meadhall; dinner time at Journeyman; glamourpuss staff at Cuchi Cuchi.

and caviar. Other cocktails of note on my visit include colossal Dirty Martinis at The Ritz-Carlton Boston Common (10 Avery Street, Boston;, the ginbased Ruby Rose at whiskey bar Saloon (255 Elm Street, Somerville; and concoctions so bespoke at Drink (348 Congress Street, Boston; drinkfortpoint. com), there’s no menu – just tell the bartender your gustatory needs et voilá. If craft beer is more your thing, look no further than the Boston Brew Tours (+1 617 453 8687, $86, including transport, lunch and approximately 18 beers). Owner Chad Brodsky collects us in his people carrier, aka The Beer Bus, and explains why artisan hooch is having a moment. “Prior to Prohibition, Boston was

the epicentre of beer in America, with 31 breweries,” he says. “In the mid-1980s, Sam Adams and Harpoon Brewery re-emerged, and today there is a beer renaissance – nanobreweries, brew pubs, craft beer bars happening in the Greater Boston and Cambridge area. “This revival, combined with an increasing number of visitors to the city – and a Bostonian’s affinity to drink – provided us the perfect conditions for Boston Brew Tours.” And so we head towards the steam-towered, blue-collar topography of Jamaica Plain, to join a group tour at Samuel Adams brewery to learn about the manufacturing process before sampling different varieties in a fun, informative tasting session for beer fanciers. Then on to Cambridge’s Meadhall for lunch (4 Cambridge

uctor SCREEN IDOL Fans of John Williams – a cond hony Symp n laureate of the Boston Pops – listen up: Bosto Orchestra’s Spring Pops season is dedicating Film Nights to his outstanding cinematic oeuvre on rg. June 7, 8, 11 and 12 at the Symphony Hall; bso.o

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My Boston by Anglo-Irish artist and Somerville resident, Zoe McCarthy. “I like to walk along the Boston Harbor, starting at Rowes Wharf – taking in the seals in the New England Aquarium – to the Institute of Contemporary Art (ICA), which has a great permanent collection and also interesting temporary shows. The Water Café is a nice spot for glass of vino. Every Sunday throughout the summer the SOWA Open Market sets up camp on Harrison Avenue in the South End with an eclectic mix of art, craft and food vendors. It’s a great place to pick up a handmade souvenir, and while in the area it’s worth marvelling at the exotic antiques on offer at nearby Mohr & McPherson. Most Fridays in June at the Boston Harbor Hotel are free Movies By Moonlight screenings ( – a fun way to end an evening after walking around the city, but you need to get there early to get a spot. Also, the Sunset Clambake Cruise to Spectacle Island is a lovely thing to do in the summer months (, ditto taking a high speed ferry to Provincetown to visit its many art galleries.”

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5 best things to do in Cambridge ...


Harvard Museum of Natural History is a treasure trove of more than 12,000 specimens from across the globe, including the world’s only mounted Kronosaurus, a 42-foot-long marine reptile. 26 Oxford Street, Cambridge, +1 617 495 3045, $12 adults, $10 students and seniors, $8 for children aged three to 18 years; Brattle Street Walking Tour is an historical treat, showcasing early examples of New England architecture, including a former Loyalists’ mansion that in 1775 was taken over by George Washington as his headquarters. Tours last 90 minutes, $17 per person for groups of up to ten; tours/Tory_Row. The Charles River is a great spot for walks, picnics, a run, or simply to watch the rowers do all the hard work. Get in on the aquatic action yourself, hiring canoes, kayaks, rowboats and sailboats – Kendall Square’s Paddle Boston rents kayaks at $18 per hour for adults, and also offers guided tours from $49 adults, $45 children. Harvard Square Wine Tours are a novel way of learning little-known facts about the university area, filtered through international wines and award-winning cuisine. Every Saturday and Sunday, 3.30pm-5.30pm, $66, Food trucks are “a thing” in New England, none more so than in summer. From Lobsta Love to Grilled Cheese Nation via Oriental meals-onwheels Mei Mei, see which ones are located where at cityofboston. gov/business/mobile/ schedule-tabs.asp. Or, on June 8, head over to Kendall Square for the annual Cambridge Food Truck Festival (


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Center;, a gastropub boasting more than 100 artisan draught beers from around the world – even its food is cooked in beer, one keg every week, explains bar manager Tyler Murphy, while giving us a behind-the-cellars snoop. Also on the tour is microbrewery Ni Night Shift Br Brewing (3 Charlton St Street, Everett; nig nightshiftbrewing. co com), run by three fr friends and whose ex experimental and se seasonal concoctions ar are sublime and ze zeitgeisty – like Taza St Stout, which has gi ginger, chicory root an and organic roasted cacao nibs from the Somerville-based Taza Chocolate fact factory. And in the warehouse opposite is Idle Hands Craft Ales (idlehandscraftales. com), a monastic-Belgian-inspired nanobrewery, where a former

computer programmer is producing approximately 380 litres per week. So, the moral of this story is: Support the local economy by drinking local beer! Not too much though, as there’s plenty more to explore. Harvard’s American Repertory Theatre aka ART (64 Brattle Street, Cambridge, +1 617 496 2000; and its fringier, club theatre Oberon on Arrow Street is a must-visit for performance. Anything goes, from musicals to electronica nights, dance, comedy, talks and Pulitzer Prizenominated stage drama. For live music, there’s Toad (Porter Square;, and for jazz, nothing beats Reggatabar (Charles Hotel, 1 Bennett Street, Cambridge; As the sun sets on Harvard Yard – and my trip – I go to rub not-JohnHarvard’s foot, first for luck, second to return. I’m all set. AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO BOSTON TWICE DAILY AND FROM SHANNON ON MON, WED, FRI AND SUN.


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on the waterfront

The second biggest city in France has undergone not just a major clean-up but reconstruction on a lavish scale to celebrate being this year’s European Capital of Culture. Mary Dowey guides us around the sights of a shiny new Marseille. Photographs by Matthew Thompson.

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On the waterfront in Marseille, a city well deserving of its Capital of Culture 2013 status.

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dgy, arty, feisty, lively, gritty, grungy … the labels pinned to Marseille for years still linger. But now there is a new one: shiny. To celebrate her status as European Capital of Culture 2013, the second biggest city in France has undergone not just a major clean-up but reconstruction on a lavish scale, plotted by some of the world’s most visionary architects. Shiny doesn’t really do it justice. It’s breathtaking. To appreciate the boldness of the transformation, start at the Vieux Port – the narrow, city-centre harbour crammed with boats as neatly ordered as sardines in a tin. These days a leisurely stroll takes the place of a lethal traffic-dodging exercise, thanks to Norman Foster’s elegant pedestrianisation scheme, with its striking interplay of shadows on cobbles. Fort Saint Jean which has


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guarded the harbour since the time of Louis XIV is now at the heart of MuCEM (, the Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations, designed by Rudy Ricciotti with an over-water walkway leading to a glass pavilion sheathed in a lacy cement veil. Next to it, like a giant white hinge mesmerisingly balanced on a slender base, stands CeReM (Centre Régional de la Méditerranée;, Stefano Boeri’s spectacular waterfront exhibition space and auditorium. You are now on the Boulevard du Littoral, a tree-lined walkway stretching for more than two kilometres past the new Regards de Provence museum (; past

Top, the exhibition space CeReM is sturdier than it looks. Above, Mary Dowey enjoying the sights.

the striped, neoByzantine Cathédrale de la Major to the shimmering new facade of Kengo Kuma’s Fonds Régional d’Art Contemporain (; past Le Silo (silo-marseille. fr), a concert venue in a converted grain bin; nascent luxury shops, offices and apartments, all the way to the Cma CGM tower. This 147-metre-tall pillar of blue-green glass, by architect Zaha Hadid, marks the end of the dramatic new waterfront, which has turned Marseille’s face proudly back to the sea. Yet we’re talking about only half a dozen new landmark buildings out of scores of major building projects taking shape all over the place. Ambitious regeneration is underway



THE MUCKY DUCK Celbridge, Co. Kildare

01 6288340 / Situated in the heart of Celbridge, Co. Kildare Guinness Time began here in the Guinness family home with the birth of Arthur Guinness in 1725. So began a wonderful piece of Irish history. With that heritage it's no surprise that the Mucky Duck has earned a reputation for great food and drink. A must visit for fans of the "Black Stuff "!

THE COUNTY CLUB Dunshaughlin, Co. Meath

01 8259220 / Located less than 30 minutes from Dublin city centre The County Club has long been a favourite with customers looking for great f ood in comfortable surroundings. The County Club's daily carvery is a particular favourite while we are also renowned for our wonderful Irish steaks.


Dunshaughlin, Co. Meath 01 8250556 / With it's traditional thatched roof An Sibin is a landmark in the heart of the village of Dunshaughlin. A blend comfort and age old of new world com tradition serving breakfast, lunch and dinner while also the perfect venue for parties and great nights out.


Our signature Steak on the Stone special is a must have, a unique dining experience which is available on all our a la carte menus.


Dunshaughlin, Co. Meath 01 8240133 / Summer 2013 promises to be a bumper period for sports fans so Carberry's is the place to be to sample a all the atmosphere while also enjoying the summer days in our outdoor pavilion.

O ’ F L AH ER TY S / BR AD Y ’ S BA R Navan, Co. Meath 046 9022810 / Whether you visit O'Flaherty's for our delicious carvery, a night out with friends or to catch live sport screens you are sure to on our big sc have a memorable time and why not have a nightcap around the roaring fire in Brady's Bar! Sláinte.


021 4344454 / Long established on Leeside with fine food served all day in the lounge bar and upstairs in our Loft Restaurant. is a must on your next visit The Wilton W to Cork. Don't forget to leave room for our famous homemade, brown bread ice cream!

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We are now accepting your old Punts as payment for food or Drinks!!

Clockwise from left left, catch of the day in the port; public sculptures by Bernar Venet; the grand town hall, La Mairie de Marseille; former tobacco factory Belle de Mai, now a hipster hangout.

in the area around Saint-Charles station, for instance, and the Belle de Mai (, a vast old tobacco factory turned hip artists’ hang-out. Even if not all of the new or refurbished structures will have shed their scaffolding by the end of this cultural year, their impact is clear. After 2,600 pendulum years, Marseille is on the up. But in the process, thank goodness, it hasn’t lost its soul. Any morning of the week you can watch fishing boats unload their catch along the short end of the Vieux Port – scorpion crabs, conger eels, octopus, sea urchins, spider crabs and other less identifiable piscine delights. They are sold with 88 |

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a salty repartee that has probably been around for even longer than navettes, the tooth-breaker biscuits for which Marseillais have retained a bizarre affection for – oh, something like three centuries. You can still see one of the city’s most famous products, pure olive oil soap, being made in the traditional way if you visit one of a remaining handful of old-style savon de Marseille manufacturers. (Strongly recommended, by the way: it seems to enhance everything from faces to floors.) And you can sample its other most famous product, the powerful, aniseed-flavoured spirit pastis, made in the time-honoured way by small, artisan producers rather than

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Eat at ...

L’Epuisette (Vallon des Auffes, +33 491 521 782; is more classical than cutting edge – but still the perfect place for a special dinner, especially on a sunny evening. Built on rocks with the sea on three sides, Guillaume Sourrieu’s Michelin-starred restaurant has a solid reputation, especially for fish, and dreamy sunset views.

blandly mass-produced. Timelessness in other forms? Maison Empereur (, an Aladdin’s cave of cookware, was already a favourite with whizzo chefs back in the 1830s. The confectionery firm Dromel has been making sugared almonds for French weddings and christenings since the 1890s ( Torrefaction Noailles (noailles. com) and Cafés Debout (26 Avenue Pasteur) have been sending the aromas of freshly roasted coffee out on to Marseille streets since the 1920s. And, even though it probably isn’t that ancient, the wine bar La Part des Anges ( feels as if it has been luring thirsty people into its dark, slightly louche interior, forever. Apart from tough survivors like these, there’s something immutable about the ambience of the place.

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For a casual meal with a breezy, beach-side feel, head for Les Akolytes (41 Rue Papety, +33 491 591 710,, just above the Plage des Catalans. The food is far more interesting and more generous than its tapas tag implies, with subtle Asian influences. Great value, too. When exhaustion strikes, the remedy lies near the

Above, locally produced tipple pastis. Below left, Maison Empereur, a treasure trove of cookware, below right, santé! Raising a glass au Français in the Belle de Mais.

Vieux Port at Sylvain Depuichaffray (66 Rue Grignan, +33 491 330 975; The coolest pâtisserie in town sells thrilling cakes and smart savouries to take away or devour on the spot in a small salon de thé. Alternatively, tuck in to unctuous artisan ice-cream at Le Glacier du Roi (4 Place de Lenche, +33 491 910 116).

The Jackie Clarke Collection Jackie Clarke (1927-2000) was a genius collector. From the age of 12 he amassed a collection of Irish material comprising over 100,000 items, spanning 400 years Open Daily Tues-Sat from 10am to 5pm Family Activities, Group and School Tours


CuLtuRe | MaRSeiLLe

Stay at … Refurbished Sofitel Vieux Port (36 Boulevard Charles Livon, +33 491 155 900; sofitel-marseille-vieuxport. com) offers comfortable, stylish bedrooms, a smart bar, pool, spa and restaurant with superb harbour views. A 10-minute uphill walk or taxi from the centre. Rooms from €200. Within splashing distance of the harbour, and close to shopping streets too, Hotel La Résidence du Vieux Port (18 Quai du Port,

+33 491 919 122; is bright and cheerful with a fashionable 1950s feel, most rooms overlooking the port. Rooms from €140. Philippe Starck has had huge fun designing hipsters' favourite Mama Shelter (64 Rue de la Loubière, +33 484 352 000; mamashelter. com), a few Metro stops from the centre. Frivolous touches are underpinned by solid basics: good beds, thick towels, 27-inch iMacs.

Rooms from €109. For street cred on a budget, it’s hard to beat Casa Ortega (46 Rue des Petites Maries, +33 954 327 437; David Karoubi has revived the pension concept in his friendly B&B near St Charles station. Fans of the retro look will love its hallmark 1960s pieces and Vivienne Westwood wallpaper. Rooms from €69 including breakfast.

ean Top, clean nes at lines hotel Mama elter, Shelter, and David ubi at Karoubi his pension style B&B Casa Ortega. Left, the striking Fonds Régional de Provence d'Art Contemporain. Opposite, skateboards and street art – both a common sight in Marseille.

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Marseille may be grimy in parts yet it always seems to sparkle. The sun bouncing off the golden rooftop Madonna on Notre Dame de la Garde flares almost blindingly across the harbour. In fact, if you have time (and puff), it’s worth climbing up to this hilltop basilica – not just to admire its lining of glinting gold mosaics but to grasp the impressive geography of this city, laid out like an outsize pink apron against a bright blue dress. No doubt about it: Marseille is a huge, busy, sprawling, industrial metropolis. Yet stay around the centre and, in spite of the tourists, you may be struck by a neighbourhood atmosphere, which can seem almost intimate – encouraged by the layout of old areas like Le Panier where washing still dangles across narrow streets. “I was here once before, a year or so ago,” I told the owner of L’Escale Marine (22 Quai du Port), a seafront bar that catches the evening sun. “Yes, I remember,” he replied. “You’re Irish, aren’t you?”

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culture | Marseille

5 essential things to do in Marseille ...

One of the intriguing things about Marseille is that, even within a relatively small distance, different parts of the city look and feel radically individualistic. Just off the central artery, La Canebière, the Noailles markets are like an outdoor souk heaped with exotic fruits, Moroccan spices, Egyptian flatbreads, Tunisian dates… A reminder of the city’s crossroads position, not just at the meeting point of west and east but between Europe and Africa as well. As one French guidebook notes, Marseille is un fabuleux melting-pot. A short bus-hop out of town towards the south lie fabulous villas built by wealthy industrialists; surprisingly attractive beaches and the gentrified remnants of small fishing villages. You’d have to be more tycoon than modest boatman to afford a miniscule cottage today in the nearest and prettiest of these fishing hamlets, the Vallon des Auffes. But it’s worth dropping into, all the same, partly for its charm but also because it shows the flip side to the massive international trade ships in Marseille’s maritime evolution. Utterly different again is the Cours Julien area behind the port – an important vegetable market until 1972 and brimming now with the kind of youthful energy that spills over into avant-garde performance spaces, alternative restaurants and trendy shops. Ah, and graffiti – Marseille’s most popular and visible art form, here taken to such extremes that, rather than risk defacement, some smart retailers have had their entire shop-fronts, 94 |

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see the brand new waterfront lined with dramatic buildings by some of the world’s most exciting architects. To understand what the entire city will look like soon, inspect the architectural model of Marseille in the handsomely refurbished warehouses known as les Docks ( You can walk, take the tram, or rent a bike from one of the le Vélo ( stands. admire the panoramic view from the hilltop Basilica of Notre Dame de la Garde down over Marseille and a wide sweep of the Med. A tough climb but worth it. Visit the fish market. Every morning fishing boats unload their catch along the short end of the Vieux Port. Even if you buy nothing the banter will be good-humoured – and the freshness of the specimens laid out before your eyes should make you resolve to book a good fish restaurant.

Above left, past and present artfully collide thanks to the imposing, Rudy Ricciotti-designed MuCEM. Right, Mama Shelter's bonkers bar festooned with inflatable swimming toys.

le foot or le corbusier? Fans of le foot will make a beeline for the stade Vélodrome (, hoping to see the city’s star team, Olympique de Marseille, in action or else seek consolation in the OM souvenir shop. But this part of town is also sacred to followers of modern architecture. Near the stadium is la cité radieuse, designed by Le Corbusier in the late 1940s to promote a new approach to urban living. This mammoth apartment block incorporates a hotel and restaurant (le Ventre de l’architecte; with suitably retro décor but modern food. escape the bustle by jumping on a boat to the calanques. Or drive to the chic little port of cassis, less than 30 minutes south of Marseille. Sip delicious cassis wine at a harbourside bar and watch the Parisian style parade go by.

Follow in the footsteps of your heroes by taking a look behind the scenes at Aviva Stadium... A tour of Aviva Stadium is a fantastic way to discover more about the iconic home of Irish rugby and football. This unmissable tour of Aviva Stadium will lead you into areas that are only accessible to the players and officials on match days. This privileged inside view of one of the world’s finest and most technologically advanced stadiums is an experience you will never forget.

Book now, email or phone +353 (0)1 238 2300.








Stadium tours are open all year around, 7 days a week, excluding event day. Pre booking is advised.




Getting around

ILLuStratIon by anna SImmonS

buy a 24-hour or 48-hour Marseille city Pass at the main tourist office (4 La Canebière; It will save you heaps on transport (bus, tram, metro), a boat trip, a guided city tour, the tourist train and museum entrance fees. It’s also worth checking out the app Marseille on the Move by monument tracker (€1.59).

logo and all, painted by street artists. It’s in areas like these that you sense most acutely the energy of Marseille: the pugnacious, rebellious, confidence that has driven it forward in difficult times. Rebuilding the city on a grandiose scale may be the most obvious manifestation of that feisty spirit right now – but it’s not a new phenomenon. Remember it was here that Le Corbusier cast his vision of a new style of urban living, in La Cité Radieuse ( And, after the decline of the port and docks had left a large swathe of Marseille crumbling, the Euroméditerranée partnership, which is now spearheading so much reconstruction, was already at work

in the 1990s, restoring magnificent Haussmann-style apartments all along the Rue de la République. But you don’t have to enjoy buildings to pick up on the city's chameleon vibe. Every time I go to Marseille, I discover exciting new places to eat – restaurants with finely judged, innovative cooking as distinct from lazy tourist food; or – as bad – over-hyped Marseille staples like bouillabaisse which, however tasty, boils down to being little more than a madly overpriced fish soup. You’ll also find one of the most glorious modern pâtisseries in all of Provence, as well as exceptional home-made ice-cream. And great new places to stay keep emerging – sleek hotels neatly matched by cool B&Bs. This is to say nothing of the dynamism that's driving a

Left, Le Corbusier's Modernist masterpiece, La Cité Radieuse, whose famous rooftop gym has been transformed into a new contemporary arts space by Ito Morabito.

programme of more than 400 cultural events throughout 2013 – radiating out from Marseille to nearby cities, including exquisitely arty Aix-en-Provence and Roman Arles. Whether you have time to visit these or not, try to escape Marseille’s big-city frenzy for half a day at least. Jump on a boat to the narrow, coastal inlets known as calanques. Deep turquoise water, dazzling white rock, no people … beautiful. And you’ll still be back in town in time for an extravagant fish supper. mary Dowey posts details of her favourite addresses for good eating and drinking in marseille and beyond on her website

AER LINGUS FLIES From DubLIn to marSEILLE, tuE, tHur anD Sat.

s (taste an extensive, TAKE HOME The city’s hallmark products – pasti du Port, +33 491 908 677; high-quality range at Maison du Pastis (108 Quai – traditional at Savonnerie – and olive oil-based soap 496 120 091; Marseillaise de la Licorne (34 Cours Julien, +33

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The ‘Irish American Ring’ is designed, manufactured and hallmarked in Ireland. The ‘Irish American Ring’ is a unique ring that tells a fantastic story. It’s for someone who celebrates both their Irish roots and their American heritage. The ‘Irish American Ring’ is available in a Ladies & Gents version, and can be ordered in 10ct, 14ct, 18ct Gold (yellow or white) or Silver or in Platinum. One side of the ring depicts the Irish Harp – the ancient symbol of Ireland. The other side of the ring depicts the American Bald Eagle – the supreme emblem of The United States of America. The top of the ring reads ‘Irish American’. Between these two words you can see a tiny star – representing the 50 states of America and a tiny shamrock, the little 3 leafed plant that is synonymous with Ireland. The ‘Irish American Ring’ is available in a variety of coloured stones – Emerald being the most popular.

For information on your local stockist please contact ‘IRISH AMERICAN RING’: European Copyright: EU Reg. Design 002075754-0001: United States Patent Application No 29/433,851


Family break | PerPignan


of the Best family Breaks in

PerPignan Whether the budget is cheap and cheerful or top dollar, Perpignan in Southern France, has a resort to keep all the family happy. We choose some of the finest spots.

Castelnou, a village built at the foot of a 10th century castle near Perpignon, carries the title of the most beautiful village in France.

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Camping Les Fontaines

This bucolic campsite borders the natural reserve of the lake of CanetSaint Nazaire, so is not only pretty but fun and educational for kids too. The lake itself is a prime spot for pink flamingos, bee-eaters, hoopoes, orioles, aigrettes, kingfishers and many more feathered friends, while the onsite mini farm offers children the chance to start their mornings collecting fresh eggs with the farmer, or grooming the donkeys and ponies. There are individual plots for caravans and tents but those flying into Perpignan can stay in mobile homes that sleep up to six persons. All have private terraces, while communal facilities include a swimming pool, playground, sports field, snack bar, karaoke, discos and dinners on set dates. The beach is four kilometres away, while other local attractions include Canet, Saint Cyprien, Collioure and Ceret. Mobile homes range from €108 to €119 per night for six persons during high season, and €35 to €40 in low season, excluding bed linen. Camping Les Fontaines, Route de Saint Nazaire, 66140 Canet en Roussillon, +33 468 802 257;

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Family break | PerPignan

Campsite La Sirène Children and water parks go together like croissants and beurre, which makes Campsite La Sirène such an enticing prospect. Situated around 900 metres from the seaside at Argèles sur Mer – and set amongst no less than 16 verdant hectares – the campsite has its own aqua park to appeal to even the mildest water baby. There are regular camping pitches of course but also a choice of chalets, mobile homes and cottages catering for up to six persons. La Sirène and L’Hippocampe share some facilities including a large sports ground for football, basketball, beach volley, tennis, table tennis and archery for adults and kids. There are also children’s clubs, a beach club and diving school, a gym, shop, hair salon, and live nightly entertainment during high season. And in the unlikely event anyone gets bored here, the Spanish border is just a short drive away … Chalets range from €39 to €175 per night; mobile homes range from €42 to €229 per night; cottages from €61 to €256 per night. Campsite La Sirène, Route de Taxo, 66702 Argelès-sur-mer, +33 468 810 461;

Imagine Rouissillon A self-styled “luxury family microresort”, Imagine Roussillon couldn’t be more child-friendly if it was run by Peppa Pig herself (hmm, then again ...). Located just 19 kilometres from Perpignan airport, and staffed by a British couple – one half of which is a trained Pilates instructor – the resort is a clutch of converted winemakers’ cottages and workshops, with a gorgeous backdrop of the Pyrénées and vineyards. There’s a spacious villa for eight persons, and two apartments for six and four persons. A week’s package includes a bakery breakfast, two evening meals and wine, two nights’ babysitting, a kids club, twice weekly maid service, exercise classes, plus one offsite

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family activity, such as go-karting or mini jet-skiing. Onsite facilities include a playground, a heated saltwater pool and hot tub, as well as a gym and exercise studio to work off those croissants. Moreover, there’s free Wi-Fi on the roof terrace and pre-programmed GPS to ease your way towards Canet Plage, finishing the day with a wine tasting next door at the Chateau de Rey. Prices range from £1,900 to £2,500 in June and September; £2,600 to £3,500 in July and August; £1,204 to £1,617 from September to May. Imagine Roussillon, Mas Sisqueille Ouest, 66140 Canet-en-Roussillon, +33 630 586 764;

Family break | perpignan

Chateau La Tour Apollinaire Parents looking for something grander than a tent – and away from the wilderness – need look no further than the Chateau La Tour Apollinaire, which comprises self-catering suites and apartments. Despite being a ten-minute drive away from Perpignan airport (and no more than a 15-minute walk to the city centre), the converted 19th century chateau is a sanctuary of lush, private walled gardens, a heated pool and quirky décor; a mash-up of Belle Époque, Art Deco, Italian Gothic and Gallic-Catalan influences, not least the Templar-inspired chapel, now a three-bed apartment. Baron Hippolyte Despres-Apollinaire – cousin of the famous French writer Guillaume Apollinaire – built the property in the 1890s, but its 2003 conversion respectfully maintains the past. Fortunately, there are all mod cons – free Wi-Fi across its eleven

rooms and seven apartments (for two to six persons) and, for a fee, a DVD library and cinema projection equipment. With Perpignan so close, and beach water-sports and mountain hikes within less than a 20-minute radius, the chateau is an

ideal base for modern families. Apartments range from €170 to €351 per night in low season, and €300 to €500 per night in high season. Chateau La Tour Apollinaire, 15 Rue Guillaume Apollinaire, 66000 Perpignan, +33 468 644 572,


combines five-star scenery with three-star comforts. Take your pick from cosy wooden cabins (for up to six persons) and Canadian tents (for up to five persons), in addition to pitches, each accommodation is equipped with a fridge, hot burning stove and sun terrace. In July and August children aged five and up can join Huttopia Kids Events, which includes handicrafts, outdoor games and sensory nature experiments, with paid add-ons including quad biking, pony rides and white-water sports. There are also two large swimming pools, a play park and zip-line, in addition to nightly entertainment – including wine tastings for adults.

Huttopia Font-Romeu If you’re a parent who is inseparable from your mobile phone, consider going cold turkey and reconnecting with your offspring at Huttopia. A “back to nature”, eco-tourism family campsite company operating in France and Canada since 2005, Huttopia is a technology-free zone

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– never mind lack of Wi-Fi, they don’t even have TVs in their static accommodation. But then who needs a telly when you have views of the Catalan Pyrenees and forests of Font-Romeu? A picture-perfect ski resort in winter and a sunny, leafy idyll in summer, the campsite

Cabins range from €120 in low season to €162 in high season per night; Canadian tents range from €63 in low season to €104 in high season per night. Huttopia Font-Romeu, Route de Mont Louis, 66120 Font-Romeu, +33 468 300 932; france. aer lingUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO perpignan ON TUE, THUR AND SAT.

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Traditional Italian trattoria and pizzeria restaurant. 26 Lower Ormond Quay, D1. Tel: +353 (1) 8741000 Mayor Square, IFSC, D1. Tel: +353 (1) 6702887

A workshop of cutting edge Italian food. Town Square, Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin 18. Tel: +353 (1) 216 6764 Unit 35, Kildare Village, Co. Kildare. Tel: +353 45 535850

“Dunne and Crescenzi has changed the way the Irish eat” Tom Doorley, The Irish Times.

Being there | Barcelona

Don’t miss ...

Aside from Gaudi, galleries and gastronomy, Barcelona has much to offer: Beach Barcelona lays claim to some 4.2 kilometres of Mediterranean beach, minutes from the city centre. Barceloneta, the nearest beach (and old fishing quarter), comes with bars and barbecues serving tantalising seafood. Being Barcelona, even at the seaside architecture is to the fore. Frank (Guggenheim Bilbao) Gehry’s golden fish sculpture, Peix, marks the end of Barceloneta and the start of Icària beach. PartY Barcelona is fiesta central; notwithstanding its architecture and culture, the city’s verve makes it a focal point for Europe’s merrymakers. The Primavera Sound Festival (May) and the Sónar Festival (June 13-15) feature contemporary music, while Gaudi’s Park güell plays host to a chaotic week-long festival of music, culture and general debauchery in August. ShoP Fashionistas looking for a bargain should wander the independent designer stores in the streets around carrer Verdi, carrer torrijos and carrer gran de gràcia.

48 hours in

Barcelona Go clubbing, shopping, dining, drinking or sight-seeing in one of Europe’s foxiest cities. To cool down, simply walk down to the Mediterranean, writes Mal Rogers.

Eat at ...

Barcelona has one of the most vibrant gastronomic scenes in Europe — some 10,000 restaurants, several Michelin stars, and countless tapas bars. There is so much going on here your senses will struggle to keep up. BUDget el Xampanyet (Carrer Montcada 22, +34 93 319 7003) is a buzzing tapas bar, renowned for local cuisine, noisy banter and proximity to the Museu Picasso. You can scarcely ask for more from a café than that. Catalan specialities washed down with cava or cider is the way to go. MiD-range els 4gats (Carrer Montsió 3, +34 93 302 4140; has been serving celebrity diners, artists, poets and locals across two centuries — and they really seem to have got the hang of it; the food is traditional, local, and served with operatic flair. SPlUrge Go for the €109 lunch taster menu at the Michelin-starred cinc Sentits (Aribau 58, +34 93 323 9490; to out-Instagram your friends. Enjoy the like of tomato sorbet with garlic bubbles, or lamb with mustard ice cream. Startling, but very tasty.

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From top left, seaside strolls on Barceloneta boardwalk; a fine vintage, bar and restaurant Els 4Gats first opened its doors in 1898; the familiar yet no less awe-inspiring vista of Gaudi’s Sagrada Família.

Sleep at ...

Accommodation in Barcelona comes in all sizes, architectural forms and prices. Check out: BUDGET In the pulsating Gràcia area, the Generator Hostel Barcelona (Carrer de Còrsega 377, +34 93 220 0373; is about as cheap an option you’ll get – other than sleeping on a bench in Gaudi’s Park Güell. With accommodation ranging from eight-person dorms (€23) to en suite double rooms (€41), the Generator also has free Wi-Fi, a tapas bar and is a short walk from both beach and Barcelona’s nightlife. MID-RANGE Boutiquery in Barcelona isn’t hard to find, and Hotel Cram (Carrer Aribau 54, +34 93 216 7700; is up there with the finest. Set in a stunning, 19th-century Modernista building, the 21st century beckons as soon as you enter the hotel, with Michelin-starred restaurant, rooftop pool and all manner of digital wizardry. Rooms from €139.50, breakfast not included. SPLURGE Elegance, decadence and glamour combine at the five-star Hotel Omm (Carrer Del Rosselló 265, +34 934 454 000; to produce what may well be Barcelona’s sleekest hotel. In the heart of the city, the rooftop terrace provides dramatic views of Gaudí’s La Pedrera. Double rooms from €184 excluding breakfast.


Drink at ...

Barcelona’s bars range from the sophisticated through to the traditional — and it’s the sort of place you’re likely to stumble on one so perfect you’ll grudge going anywhere else. TRADITIONAL At Taller de Tapas (L’Argentería 51, +34 93 268 8559; the old vaults are a splendid place to quaff cava (Spain’s elegant take on champagne) and nibble tapas till stupid o’clock in the morning. TRENDY For a drink with a view, head up to the 10thfloor, open-air bar of the Hotel Majestic (Passeig de Gràcia 68, +34 93 487 3939; Order the cocktail of the day and try not to utter too many swear words as you gaze at the astonishing, glittering Catalan architecture panorama set before you. SOPHISTICATED Hemingway enjoyed a mojito in Boadas (Carrer dels Tallers 1, +34 93 318 9592) on a regular basis. The Art Deco cocktail bar in Raval opened in 1933 – making it the oldest in the city – and, despite the fact that the tuxedoed bar staff prepare the best daiquiri this side of the Atlantic Ocean, it’s not overwhelmed by tourists.

Clockwise from top left, bustling Park Güell never ceases to amaze; sleek modern design at Hotel Omm; rooftop bar on the tenth floor of the Hotel Majestic – the perfect place for a sundown cocktail.

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Welcome to the heart of Killarney National Park and to Molly Darcy’s Traditional Irish Pub. The home of great Irish food and live Traditional entertainment. Enjoy Dinner, Craft Irish Beers & Ales plus Leading Irish Music Band Onóra with The Torc Dancers.

Join us this Summer for a fun Irish Night ... an experience to remember! June: Every Tuesday & Thursday July – Sept: Every Tuesday – Saturday inc. Entertainment from 8pm • Group reservations are welcome! • FREE Parking • FREE WiFi Internet • Close to Killarney Town Centre

Molly Darcy’s Traditional Irish Pub In the heart of Killarney National Park Tel: +353 (0)64 662 3400 | Muckross | Killarney | Co. Kerry E:

I think department store, LA RINAScENTE located in the city centre, is the “Brown Thomas” of Milan. I usually stroll around here on a Saturday, but it is extra special at Christmas time. If I have a guest I make it my business to go to the bar on the top floor for vino and the awesome view of the DUOMO cATHEDRAL right (Piazza Duomo, +39 02 88 521;

An insider’s guide to


Irish girl Sinéad O’Sullivan gives us the inside scoop on Italy’s most fashion forward city. SFORZEScO cASTLE top, (Piazza Castello, +39 02 88463700, 3700, functions equally as an historic building and exhibition area; I am always surprised by something new going on inside. What makes this place even more special is the fact that it is located in front of PARcO SEMPIONE above. The castle is also a prime venue for open-air concerts. See whatt is on from June to August at

BAR BASSO is famous for its Negroni oni (gin and Campari mix) so of course I had my first one here. It has turned out to be a great place for a drink after a long day of work or shopping. (Via Plinio 39, +39 02 2940 0580; om).

The cANAL area of Milan, left, is full of history and has no traffic. I love its silence and scenery. The last Sunday of every month, when there are stalls selling everything you can think of, is particularly special. This is my top spot to zone out.

Via della Spiga, Via Montenapoleone, Via Sant’ Andrea and Via A. Manzoni make up what is known as IL QUADRILATERO DELLA MODA (the square of fashion). The area is home to top Italian designers: Armani, D&G, Prada, Valentino and Moschino, among many others. It’s packed full of fashion history and I love looking at the amazing window displays.

MORE ABOUT SINÉAD O’ SULLIVAN It has been four years since Sinéad moved to Milan to teach English and she now works as a community manager for a marketing agency. She has always had a crush on Italy, so living there is a dream come true. You can follow Sinéad @Sineadina on

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THE LAST SUPPER was the first thing I wanted to see when I arrived in Milan. I had to wait about three months, as there is always a waiting list for the da Vinci masterpiece. As expected, it was worth the wait, and yes, I will go time and time again. (Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie 2; Good old BRERA . The area oozes art, culture and history. It is full of bars and there is always something going on.

RUGANTINO (Via dei Fabbri 1, +39 02 8942 1404; is a real treat as it offers a taste of Rome. You simply eat and watch the night come to life right in the historical zone of Colonne di San Lorenzo. Then for dessert go across the street to the best gelateria in town: GROM! (

Pi Pizza memories are made in I CAPOTOSTA . It is the one place I am sure to get a real re Neapolitan pizza served by friendly Neapolitan staff. I love the atmosphere, the It Italian buzz and the Italian beer beer. (Alzaia Naviglio Grande 56 56, +39 02 8941 5910).

MAISON MOSCHINO above, like the fashion house, is full of whimsy, from paper cloud light fittings to bedrooms styled as woodlands and ballgowns – its proximity to the stylish Corso Como 10 is no coincidence (Viale Monte Grappa 12, +32 02 2900 9858; Still, HOTEL DEMIDOFF was my first hotel in Milan, and I love it simply for that reason, and also that it’s €58 per night and ideally located near the metro, the shops, bars and parks. (Via Plinio 2, +39 02 2951 3889;

I love to hang out at LE BICICLETTE left. It’s my home away from home. The decor reminds me of a 1970s-style living-room with funky, old-school bicycles hanging from the ceiling. I’ve used it as a great party venue. (Via Conca del Naviglio 10, +39 02 5810 4325;


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For your guide to our new and exciting On Demand movies and television programmes, including Game of Thrones (pictured), turn to page 116.


Welcome Aboard For your comfort and safety Please pay attention while the cabin crew demonstrate the use of the safety equipment before take-off. Also, make sure to read the safety instruction card, which is in the seat pocket in front of you. Seat belts must be fastened during take-off and landing, and whenever the “Fasten Seat Belts” sign is switched on. We recommend that you keep your seat belt loosely fastened throughout the flight.

Your seat must be in the upright position during takeoff and landing, but can be reclined by pressing the large button in the armrest. Other buttons (in the armrest or above your head, depending on the aircraft) may be used to operate your reading light and air vent, or to call a cabin attendant.

ar mhaithe de do chompord agus le do shábháilteacht ... ... iarraimid ort aird mhaith a thabhairt, ar an bhfoireann cábáin ag tús na heililte agus iad ag taispeáint conas an fearas slándála a úsáid. Iarraimid ort an cárta threoraca slándála atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair a léamh chomh maith. Caithfear criosanna sábhála bheith ceangailte le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe agus ag aon am a bhíonn an comhartha “Fasten Seat Belts” ar iasadh. Molaimid duit an crios sábhála bheith leathcheangailte agat i rith an turais.

Le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe, ní mór do shuíochan bheith sa suíomh ingearach. Ag am ar bith eile, is féidir an suíochán a chur siar ach brú ar an gcnaipe mór atá ar an taca uillinne. Tá cnaipí eile ann (ar an taca uillinne nó os do chionn, ag brath ar an eitleán) chun úsáid a bhaint as an solas léitheoireachta nó as an ngaothaire, nó chun glaoch ar bhall den fhoireann cábáin.

Portable electronic equipment Portable electronic equipment may interfere with aircraft equipment, creating a potentially hazardous situation. With safety as our priority, we ask you to pay particular attention to the following: Mobile phones and all other personal electronic equipment must be switched off and stowed safely as soon as the aircraft doors are closed. It is not permissible to use any electronic device to transmit or receive data during the flight, however devices equipped with flight mode, or the equivalent, may be used. Flight mode should be selected before the device is switched off. Devices PermitteD ✔ at any time: Devices powered by micro battery cells

and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices PermitteD ● in Flight but not During taxi/take-oFF/

initial climb/aPProach lanDing: Laptops with CD ROM or DVD drive, palmtop organisers, handheld calculators without printers, portable audio equipment (eg Walkman, CD-player, Mini-disk player, iPod and MP3-player). For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset. Computer games (eg Gameboy, Nintendo DS). Video cameras/recorders, digital cameras, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers, electronic toys. Bluetooth devices with mobile phones in “Flight” mode, devices with “Blackberry” technology with “Flight”/Flight Safe” mode

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selected, laptops, PDAs with built-in Wi-Fi with “Wireless Off” setting selected. Devices ProhibiteD ✘ at all times: Devices transmitting radio frequency

intentionally such as walkietalkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN). Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

Aer Lingus is delighted to welcome you on board Tá áthas ar Aer Lingus fáilte ar bord a chur romhat

Food and bar service

Seirbhís bia agus beáir

A new range of food items – including sandwiches, confectionery and a range of snacks – is available for sale on all Aer Lingus scheduled services to and from the UK and Europe. A charge applies for all drinks on UK and European flights in Economy class. On long haul flights, there is a charge in Economy class for alcoholic drinks, while soft drinks are complimentary. Details of all items available for purchase are contained in an information leaflet, which is in all seat pockets.

Tá raon nua bia ar fáil anois ar sheirbhísí sceidealta Aer Lingus a dhéanann freastai ar an Riocht Aontaithe agus ar an Eoraip. Ina measc, tá ceapairí, milseogra agus rogha sneaiceanna éagsúla. Ní mór íoc as gach deoch sa ghrád barainne ar na heitiltí seo. Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha, tá costas ar dheochanna neamh-mheisciúla go fóill ar fáil saor in aisce. Tá sonraí faoi gach rud is féidir a cheannach ar bord foilsithe sa bhileog eolais atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair.

News, music and movies

Nuacht, ceol agus scannáin

On long haul flights, we offer you an extensive programme of viewing and listening options. For full details, turn towards the back of this magazine.

Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha tá clár leathan féachana agus éisteachta ar fáil. Le hagaidh tuilleadh eolais, féach deireadh na hirise seo.

Fearas iniompartha leictreonach Is féidir le fearas iniompartha leictreonach cur isteach ar threalamh an eitleáin, rud a d’fhéadfadh bheith contúirteach. Agus sábháilteacht mar phríomhchúram ag Aer Lingus, iarraimid ort aird sa bhreis a thabhairt ar an mír seo a leanas: Caithfear gach guthán póca agus gach fearas pearsanta leictreonach a mhúchadh agus a chur i dtaisce a luaithe agus a dhúntar doirse an eitleáin. Ní ceadmhach úsáid a bhaint as uirlis leictreonach ar bith chun sonraí a tharchur nó a ghlacadh i rith na heitilte. Is ceadmhach, áfach, uirlisí le cumas “mód eitilte”, nó a chomhionann sin, a úsáid. Caithfear an lipéad “modh eitilte” a roghnú sula múchtar an uirlis. GLéAsAnnA A bhfuIL ✔ ceAdAIthe I GcónAí: Gléasanna a bhaineann úsáid as

micreaceallairí agus/nó fotaichill; cluaisíní chúnta (gléasanna digiteach san áireamh); glaoirí (gleacadáin amháin); séadairí.

GLéAsAnnA Atá ● ceAdAIthe I rIth nA heItILte, Ach nAch

bhfuIL ceAdAIthe Le LInn don eItLeán bheIth AG GLuAIseAcht Ar tALAmh/AG éIrí de thALAmh/ AG tAbhAIrt fAoIn dreApAdh tosAIGh/ AG dírIú Ar thuIrLInGt/ AG tuIrLInGt: Ríomhairí glúine le tiomántán dlúthdhiosca (CD ROM) nó diosca digiteach ilúsáide (DVD). Eagraithe pearsanta boise. Áireamháin láimhe gan phrintéiri. Clostrealamh iniompartha (ms Walkman, seinnteoir CD, seinnteoir

Mini-disk, iPod, seinnteoir MP3). Ar mhaithe le compord na bpaisinéiri eile, níor choir na gléasanna seo a úsáid ach amháin le cluaisíní. Cluichí ríomhaire (ms Gameboy). Níl cead gaireas forimeallach a úsáid le cluichí láimhe ríomhaire am ar bith (ms paca forlíontach cumhachta a cheanglaítear le cábla). Físcheamaraí agus fístaifeadáin, trealamh digiteach san áireamh. Ceamaraí digiteach. Glacadóirí láimhe chóras suite domhanda (GPS). Rásúir leicreacha. Bréagáin leictreonacha (seachas bréagáin chianrialaithe). Gléasanna “Bluetooth” i gcomhar le gutháin phóca agus iad i “modh eitilte”; uirlisí a bhaineann feidhm as teicneolaíocht “Blackberry” agus “mód eitilte” nó “slánmhód eitilte” roghnaithe orthu; ríomhairí glúine; ríomhairí boise (PDA) le Wi-Fi ionsuite agus an lipéad “raidió múchta” roghnaithe orthu.

GLéAsAnnA A bhfuIL ✘ cosc IomLán orthu: Gléasanna a tharchuireann

minicíocht raidió d’aon turas. Siúlscéalaithe. Bréagaín chianrialaithe. Aonaid fhístaispeána le feadáin ga-chatadóideacha. Trealamh ríomhaire gan sreang (ms luch). Printéirí PC. Schríbhneoiri DVD, CD agus taifeadáin Minidisk atá sa mhodh taifeadta. Ceamthaifeadáin digiteacha agus iad ag athscríobh dlúthdhioscaí. Steiréónna iniompartha. Raidiónna póca (AM/ FM). Glacadóiri teilifíse. Trealamh teiliméadrach. Ní cheadaítear fearas LAN gan sreang (WLAN) a úsáid. Is féidir ríomhairí glúine a bhfuil WLAN ionsuite iontu (ms Centrino) a úsáíd le linn na heitilte ar choinníoll go bhfuil WLAN curtha as agus faoi réir na srianta a bhaineann le húsáid ríomhhairí glúine (thuas luaite).

SmokiNg In line with Irish government regulations, Aer Lingus has a nosmoking policy onboard its flights. Smoking is not permitted in any part of the cabin at any time. tobAc De réir rialacháin Rialtas na hÉireann, tá polasai i réim ar eitiltí Aer Lingus nach gceadaítear tobac a chaitheamh. Ní cheadaítear d’aon duine tobac a chaitheamh in aon chuid den eitleán ag aon am.

Aer Lingus. nk you for choosing to fly with Tha ht. flig t san plea and able We hope you have a comfort le hAer Lingus. agus go raibh maith agat as taisteal t aga h hac eam taitn h dac por Tá suil againn go mbíonn turas com

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Aer Lingus news aer lINgus lauNChes hurlINg FestIVal IN the CIty oF the trIBes From September 18 to 21, 2013, Aer Lingus, in partnership with Etihad Airways will host the first ever International Hurling Festival in Galway City and County. Pictured at the launch of the Aer Lingus International Hurling Festival at the Galway Bay Hotel, Salthill are, from left, Leanne McGarry, Etihad Airways, Michael Grealy, Chief Human Resources Officer, Aer Lingus, Galway Hurler David Collins, Dave Walsh, General Manager, Ireland, Etihad Airways and Carmel Coyne of Aer Lingus with Salthill Knocknacarra Hurlers Donal O’ Shea, Finn Timon, John Kenny, Cormac Timon and Macdara O’Griofa.

Pictured at the Aer Lingus Viscount Awards at the Royal Automobile Club, London, are Claire Greenwood from Andor Technology and Julie Davidson, Aer Lingus cabin crew.

NortherN IrelaNd BusINesses CeleBrate aer lINgus VIsCouNt awards wIN

on easier! Aer Lingus is making travelling to central Lond train tickets while Customers can now purchase Heathrow Express n on booking their flight in one seamless transactio

aer lINgus regIoNal MoVes Its operatIoNs at duBlIN aIrport to terMINal 2 Aer Lingus Regional, operated by Aer Arann, moved all services to and from Dublin Airport to Terminal 2 on May 1, 2013. Up to now, some Aer Lingus Regional flights had operated from Terminal 1. The move means that both Aer Lingus Regional services

and Aer Lingus mainline services now operate from the same terminal, making connections easier for customers. In addition, the move to Dublin Airport’s newest terminal facilitates Aer Lingus Regional customers in linking to Aer Lingus’

take-oFF For aer lINgus FlIghts FroM shaNNoN to Faro Aer Lingus’ inaugural flight from Shannon to Faro took to the skies on May 1. Pictured are cabin crew Tommy Byrne and Catriona O’ Dea. The service operates three times per week until the end of October, giving customers in the West of Ireland direct access to the ever-popular holiday resort of the Algarve.

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transatlantic services in Terminal 2 – a significant and growing part of the business. For information on Aer Lingus Regional fares and the full schedule, please visit

Seven of Northern Ireland’s most dynamic companies have been honoured at the fifth annual Aer Lingus Viscount Awards in London. The Awards, in association with Ulster Business, were held in the prestigious Royal Automobile Club and awarded companies that have best demonstrated a positive impact on the Northern Ireland economy and a strong collaboration between NI and Great Britain. The judging panel deliberated over 100 of the province’s most entrepreneurial and innovative companies before deciding on the eventual winners. The Aer Lingus Viscount Award for Overall Excellence was aw awarded to Andor Technology. Vict Victoria Gault, Marketing Co Communications Manager said, “A Andor, we work hard to “At en ensure we can meet customer ne needs around the world, su supplying top quality products wi unrivalled performance with ca capabilities. To be recognised at the Aer Lingus Viscount Aw Awards for Overall Excellence is something we are very proud of and is testament to the ongoing hard work of all our employees.”


Check-in your bags the night before you travel.

Now with Evening Before Check-In from Aer Lingus, you can check in your baggage the day before you travel. If you are flying between 6 and 8am from Dublin, simply check in your luggage at the airport between 4 and 8pm the evening before you fly. Then, relax and get a good night’s sleep, knowing you have a stress-free travel day ahead. To find out more, visit

Evening Before Check-In

Great Care. Great Fare.



Flights to the UNiteD stAtes oZ THe GreAT ANd PoWerFUL Sci-Fi, Fantasy (PG) 127 minutes Oz The Great and Powerful imagines the origins of the beloved wizard, who debuted in film classic, The Wizard of Oz. Disney’s fantastical adventure Oz The Great and Powerful imagines the life of Oscar Diggs, a small-time circus magician with dubious ethics. Oscar is hurled away from dusty Kansas to the vibrant Land of Oz. He thinks he’s hit the jackpot until he meets three witches, who are not convinced he is the great wizard everyone’s been expecting. Putting his magical arts to use through illusion, ingenuity – and even a bit of wizardry – Oscar transforms himself not only into a great wizard but into a better man as well. STArS James Franco, Mila Kunis, Rachel Weisz, Michelle Williams, Zach Braff direcTor Sam Raimi

A Good dAy To die HArd Action (R)

STArS Bruce Willis, Jai Courtney, Sebastian Koch, Rasha Bukvic, Cole Hauser, Yulia Snigir

FATHer’S cHAir Drama (R) STArS Wagner Moura, Mariana Lima, Lima Duarte, Bras Moreau Antunes

ALviN ANd THe cHiPMUNkS: THe SqUeAkqUeL Family (PG)

voiceS oF Zach Levi, David Cross, Jason Lee, Justin Long, Amy Poehler, Anna Faris


ANd NoW A Word FroM oUr SPoNSor Comedy (NR)

STArS Bruce Greenwood, Parker Posey, Callum Blue


Comedy (NR)

Comedy (PG-13)

STArS Richard Coyle, Ruth Bradley, Russell Tovey

STArS Seth Rogen, Barbra Streisand, Colin Hanks, Adam Scott, Yvonne Strahovski, Danny Pudi


THe eNd oF Love

Fantasy (PG-13)

Drama (PG)

STArS Alice Englert, Emma Thompson, Viola Davis, Jeremy Irons

STArS Smyth Campbell, Michael Cera, Jocelin Donahue

Horrid HeNry: THe Movie



Thriller (R)

Drama (R)

STArS Alexander Siddig, Marisa Tomei, Joshua Jackson, Oded Fehr

STArS Rob Lowe, Eric McCormack, Julie Bowen, Carrie-Anne Moss, Saffron Burrows, Jamie Chung, David Harbour, Richard Schiff

Family (PG) STArS Theo Stevenson, Anjelica Huston, Richard E. Grant, Noel Fielding, Parminder Nagra

THe Look oF Love


Action (R)

LeS MiSerAbLeS

Musical (PG-13)

Biopic (R)

Comedy (PG)

STArS Arnold Schwarzenegger, Eduardo Noriega, Forest Whitaker, Johnny Knoxville

STArS Hugh Jackman, Russell Crowe, Anne Hathaway

STArS Steve Coogan, Anna Friel, Imogen Poots, Tamsin Egerton, David Walliams, Stephen Fry

STArS Billy Crystal, Bette Midler, Marisa Tomei, Tome Everett Scott, Bailee Madison


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PeTer PAN Family (G)

voiceS oF Bobby Driscoll, Kathryn Beaumont, Hans Conreid

eTHeL Documentary (NR) STArS Ethel Kennedy, Rory Kennedy, John F. Kennedy

To mark THe GATHeriNG ireLANd 2013 – Aer Lingus presents Irish comedy Grabbers. Directed by Jon Wright, Grabbers is a monster comedy from Irish screenwriter Kevin Lehane.


Flights From the UNiteD stAtes PROMISED LAND Drama (R) 106 minutes

Promised Land is the new contemporary drama directed by Gus Van Sant (My Own Private Idaho, Good Will Hunting, Milk). Matt Damon plays Steve Butler, an ace corporate salesman who is sent along with his partner, Sue Thomason to close a key rural town in his company’s expansion plans. With the town having been hit hard by the economic decline of recent years, the two outsiders see the local citizens as likely to accept their company’s offer. What seems like an easy job for the duo becomes complicated by the objections of key local people. Written by Matt Damon and John Krasinski, Promised Land explores America at the crossroads where big business and the strength of small-town community converge. StARS Matt Damon, Frances McDormand, John Krasinski, Rosemarie DeWitt, Hal Holbrook DIREctOR Gus Van Sant


Family (G)


StARS Jonathan Cain, Deen Castronovo, Arnel Pineda

vOIcES OF Ericka Beck, Albert Brooks, Willem Dafoe, Ellen DeGeneres, Alexander Gould, Barry Humphries

StARS Sean Penn, Ryan Gosling, Emma Stone, Nick Nolte, Josh Brolin, Frank Grillo, Holt Mccallany




Drama (R)

Adventure (PG)

Thriller (NR)

StARS Nichola Burley, Martin McCann, Charlene McKenna, Valene Kane

StARS Suraj Sharma, Irrfan Khan, Adil Hussain

StARS Christophe Cervoni, Eric Juhérian, Mathias Rubin

Documentary (NR)




Thriller (R)

Action (PG-13)

StARS Jude Law, Channing Tatum, Catherine Zeta-Jones

StARS Dwayne Johnson, Susan Sarandon, Barry Pepper, Benjamin Bratt

Action (R)

IcE AgE: cONtINENtAL DRIFt Family (PG)

vOIcES OF Ray Romano, John Leguizamo, Denis Leary

thE ODD LIFE OF tIMOthy gREEN Family (PG)

StARS Dianne Wiest, CJ Adams, Rosemarie DeWitt, Ron Livingston, M. Emmet Walsh

IDENtIty thIEF Comedy (R) StARS Jason Bateman, Robert Patrick, Morris Chestnut, Jon Favreau, John Cho, Amanda Peet

Adventure (PG-13) StARS Nicholas Hoult, Eleanor Tomlinson, Stanley Tucci, Ian McShane, Bill Nighy, Ewan McGregor



Crime (R)

Drama (PG-13)

StARS Jason Statham, Jennifer Lopez, Michael Chiklis, Bobby Cannavale, Nick Nolte

StARS Joe Mullins, Muiris Crowley, Corina Gough, Kevin McCormack, Keith Byrne




Comedy (PG-13)

Comedy (PG-13)

StARS Mia Wasikowska, Matthew Goode, Nicole Kidman, Jacki Weaver, Dermot Mulroney, Phyllis Somerville

StARS Alicia Silverstone, Sigourney Weaver, Krysten Ritter, Wallace Shawn, Malcolm McDowell

StARS Nicholas Hoult, Teresa Palmer, John Malkovich, Rob Corddry, Analeigh Tipton

Thriller (R)


To mark thE gAthERINg IRELAND 2013 – Aer Lingus presents Jump – it follows the lives of four 20-something’s whose lives collide one night. Pilgrim hill focuses on a middle-aged farmer living in rural Ireland.

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On demand

On Demand TV allows you to select and view your favourite TV shows. Don’t miss the most anticipated new shows on TV in this extensive choice of award-winning Comedy, Drama, Documentary, Lifestyle and Kids programmes.

America: The Story of the US

Mankind: The Story of All of Us


In Documentary highlights enter a world beyond imagination with award-winning and critically acclaimed documentaries – Untamed Americas, Beyond The Cosmo, Megastructures, Bird Brain, Harna’s Wildlife Rescue Camp and Living The Wildlife. Music documentary Hendrix on Hendrix and Sports documentary Enzo Ferrari Passion for Speed offer an insight into two very different men. Multiple episodes of Premium Factual documentaries are available On Demand. From History Channel enjoy three episodes of Mankind The Story of All of Us, the new mini-series narrated by Josh Brolin and Stephen

Fry. It looks at the story of the human race and uses dazzling CGI to bring to life the most critical events in human history. History Channel also presents the Emmy award-winning America: The Story of the US, that looks at how the history of the United States was invented. From National Geographic Channel there are three episodes of the technology series Engineering Connections presented by Richard Hammond, and three episodes of Great Migrations, this series tells the formidable stories of many of the planet’s species and their movements, while also revealing new scientific discoveries.

The Meaning of Life


Lifestyle highlights include History Channel favourites Pawn Stars and Shipping Wars. Don’t miss Project Runway, Grand Designs, Jamie’s 15 Minute Meals, Show Me Your Wardrobe, The Jo Whiley Music Show, Who Do You Think You Are?, The Meaning of Life (featuring Noel Gallagher), Race of Champions and HSBC Golfing World. To mark The Gathering 2013 Aer Lingus presents The Gathering: Homeward Bound which sees Trevor Brennan return to his roots, Other Voices: Villagers Special and four fascinating episodes of The Genealogy Roadshow.


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Handy Manny

KIDS HIGHLIGHTS Kids can enjoy Disney favourites Handy Manny and Doc McStuffins and from Monster Entertainment kids will love Funky Fables and Fluffy Gardens. Tweens and Teens can view Glee, Shake It Up and Disney’s Austin and Ally.

The Big Bang Theory

Ripper Street

As we witness a golden age in TV drama, Aer Lingus offers an engaging choice of DRAMA TV with multiple episodes available of the hottest drama from the US and UK. There are also one-off episodes to select from in The Mentalist, Boardwalk Empire, The Wire and Glee. Three episodes of brand new BBC Drama are available – Ripper Street is a compelling, gritty crime drama with high production values and a stellar cast. Set in Victorian London, this drama is fused with rich storylines that meld with the intrigue of a criminal underworld as it follows the battle of the men whose job it is to bring the law to the lawless. According to The Guardian, “Ripper Street is beautifully performed, and beautiful to look at – stylish, and stylised.” Ripper Street is filmed in Dublin.

Austin and Ally


Call the Midwife After fabulous ratings and reviews for the first series, the moving, funny and true-to-life look at the colourful stories of midwifery in East London in the 1950s continues in Call The Midwife. Three episodes from the award-winning series 2 are available On Demand. This is a fascinating portrayal of birth, life, death and a community on the brink of huge social change. Aer Lingus is proud to premiere the first three episodes of Season 3 of Game of Thrones. In Season 3, many critical plot points from the first two seasons come to a head, with several major characters

meeting cruel fates. This epic drama is set in a fantasy continent and is a truly thrilling journey through an unforgettable fictional landscape. The Game of Thrones Exhibition takes place in Belfast from June 8th- 17th; production and filming for the series took place in Northern Ireland. Watch out for the first three episodes of brand new HBO Drama Banshee. This exciting new series charts the twists that follow recently paroled master jewel thief Lucas Hood. Described by the Hollywood Reporter as, “ … taut, entertaining and smarts … hooks you immediately.”

Don’t miss two episodes of one of the hottest comedies of the moment from HBO in Enlightened starring Golden Globe winner Laura Dern. Also from HBO take a look at Veep and Curb Your Enthusiasm. More brand new comedy includes Modern Family, It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia, Family Guy, New Girl, Louie, The Middle, The Big Bang Theory and Peep Show. As Lena Dunham’s awardwinning hit comedy series returns to HBO, Aer Lingus presents the first five episodes of Girls from the brand new Season 2. Girls follows the urban adventures of a group of 20-something NYC women. Season 2 of Girls is as addictive as ever and has become the cultural touchstone for a new generation. Take a trip back in time and enjoy Arrested Development and The IT Crowd starring Chris O’Dowd.

Established 1980



On demand 1970s



Easy Listening

Fitzpatrick Hotels

That 70s Show

Indie Hits

John Kelly

This is a contemporary easy-listening collection of songs from both sides of the Atlantic, brought to you compliments of The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA. With two hotels in downtown Manhattan, Grand Central and Fitzpatrick Manhattan, Fitzpatrick’s is the place to stay in NYC. Visit their website for more information, Fitzpatrick Hotels USA are also on Twitter & Facebook.

Take a trip back to the decade famous for flares and flower power in That 70s Show. Listen out for some seriously memorable gems from The Rolling Stones, Stevie Wonder, Pink Floyd, ABBA to Lou Reed, The Who and The Clash.

Tune into Indie Hits – an alternative selection of tunes from bands that have now gained cult status. Bands to listen out for include grunge gods Nirvana and the inimitable Pixies, as well as other US Indie gods – The Shins, The National and The Black Keys. Manchester’s finest of course make an appearance in the form of The Stone Roses and Oasis.

On RTÉ lyric fm, Kelly presents The John Kelly Ensemble every weekday afternoon between 2pm and 4pm. From Bach to Brian Eno, The John Kelly Ensemble transforms your afternoons with a sonic adventure like no other. Here, exclusively for Aer Lingus passengers, John provides a carefullychosen selection of classical music. You can find out more about John’s programmes on or follow him on Twitter @johnkellytweets



Talk Radio

Traditional Irish

Chart Hits

Irish Poetry Corner

Best of Moncrieff

Ceol na nGael

Chart Hits lifts the lid on the most up-to-the-minute Pop hits from both sides of the Atlantic. Listen out for your favourite artists in this compilation of smash hits. This exciting set of songs features hits from the world’s most successful artists including, Justin Timberlake, Nicole Scherzinger and One Direction. Also listen out for brand new songs from industry stalwarts Depeche Mode and David Bowie.

Poetry has been a passion in Ireland for a couple of thousand years. Brian Munn selects and reads verses from renowned Irish Poets – W.B. Yeats, Oliver Goldsmith, Percy French, Oscar Wilde and others of note. This unique selection is at times comic, romantic and always nostalgic. Enjoy this ensemble of Irish poetry produced especially for Aer Lingus to celebrate this remarkable Irish tradition.

Best of Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent features. Its insightful format gives listeners a unique listening experience. Tune into Best of Moncrieff every weekday from 1.30-4.30pm on Newstalk 106-108fm for a lively mix of phone-ins, text messages and stories from around the world and down your street. Text 53106, email afternoon@ or follow Sean on Twitter @SeanMoncrieff.

Ceol na nGael is a traditional music programme presented, in Irish, by Seán Ó hÉanaigh. Seán presents Sruth na Maoile on RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta. The station is the national Irish language broadcaster in Ireland, and is celebrating 40 years on air. Ceol traidisiúnta agus ceol tíre den scoth, le Seán Ó hÉanaigh. For more visit: Twitter @RTERnaG.

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On demand




Documentary On One Documentary On One is the multi award winning radio documentary strand from RTÉ Radio 1 (88-90FM) and is currently the most successful documentary unit in the world – winning over 70 awards since 2009. The website contains over 1,000 radio documentaries all freely available to listen/podcast. You can also download the all new and free Documentary On One for iPhone and/or Android app. The documentaries featured are “Kerry and The Tramp”, “Fire and Water” and “Kenmare Street”.

The Big 10 98FM’s Big 10 is presented by Claire Solan, the voice of the Dublin airwaves and presenter of many well-known TV shows. In this special programme commissioned for Aer Lingus, Claire uses the theme of The Gathering 2013 and remembers previous events and gatherings that have brought Ireland and Irish people together over the last number of decades. We hope you enjoy the music, moments and memories. For more on Claire and 98FM, visit

Opera Night


In Tales from the Opera RTÉ lyric fm presenter Liz Nolan visits the history of this spectacular art. She presents an opera, a story, a glimpse into the lives of the characters, both real and imaginary, who have shaped the form as we know it today ...”Poor Butterfly” smirked Noel Coward. But can any of us remain unmoved by a story of such desperate sadness? Tales from the Opera pays homage to Puccini’s Madama Butterfly.

Homecoming is a nostalgic mix of famous Irish songs selected especially for The Gathering 2013. Whether you live in Ireland, are coming home to visit relatives and friends or discover your Irish roots – these Irish classics are sure to conjure up memories of days gone by. This show represents the cream of Irish talent from U2, The Pogues, The Cranberry’s, Horslips, The Dubliners, The Saw Doctors to Rory Gallaghers and many more. Enjoy Coming Home with Homecoming.




Folk, Roots



Jazz Alley

Roots Freeway

Join Audrey and Ogie in The Cosy Corner to enter a world of sleepy and comforting music that’s sure to help little ones drift to the Land of Nod. The Cosy Corner has plenty of sleepy-time stories and meditations from all over the world; including soothing Irish lullabies. All of the lullabies are chosen especially for sleepyheads flying all over the world. So get your pillow and your blanket and get comfortable in the Cosy Corner … it’s going to be a relaxing flight.

Phantom 105.2 is the home of very best music on Irish radio. Phantom is committed to playing new music, Indie Rock and alternative music for Dublin. Claire Beck brings you through a selection of what you will hear on Dublin’s alternative Radio Station! Claire presents Phantom Drive, daily from 3pm on Phantom 105.2. Turn it on and try something different! Phantom 105.2 –!

Take a walk down Jazz Alley with Donald Helme, featuring the best in classic and contemporary jazz. Focusing on the curious, quirky, obscure, and neglected Jazz Alley broadcasts on Ireland’s dedicated classical music station, RTÉ lyric fm, each Wednesday evening at 7pm. Donald Helme’s lifelong enthusiasm for jazz began in the 1950s with Count Basie, and blossomed from there to include almost all aspects of this absorbing and important music.

Niall Toner presents Roots Freeway on RTÉ Radio 1, Ireland’s mostlistened-to radio station; Saturday nights at 11pm. Roots Freeway is an eclectic mix of Folk, Bluegrass, Blues and Roots Music. Toner is first and foremost, a music fan and also is a songwriter and a musician, playing guitar and mandolin with his own band, The Niall Toner Band.

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Wellbeing Aer Lingus is pleased to bring you some suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and wellbeing during your flight: Wear loose-fitting clothes on board, to all your skin to breathe. Stretch your legs by taking a stroll through the cabin. Circle your ankles clockwise and anti-clockwise. Trace the letters of the alphabet with your foot by moving your ankles. Exercising your feet and

legs periodically helps to reduce possible effects of long-duration travel. Avoid sitting or sleeping in the same position for too long and gently stretch muscles to improve your circulation. Move your neck and shoulders during long flights to prevent stiffness.

Reducing the effects of Jet Lag: Avoid heavy food, alcohol, tea or coffee the day before you travel. When you arrive at your destination, try to adjust your activities to the new time zone. Mild exercise on arrival will help to stimulate your circulation.

We wish you an enjoyable experience.

Travel Tips It is important to take time to reduce your risk of getting sick. Various viruses are thought to spread mainly from person to person through coughing, sneezing, or close contact with the flu. Here are some everyday preventative actions you can take to help slow the spread of germs that cause respiratory illness, like flu: Cover your nose and mouth when you cough and sneeze. This will help to prevent the spread of droplets from that contain germs. Wash your hands often with soap and water. If soap and water are not available use an alcohol–based hand rub. Avoid touching your eyes, nose and mouth, this can cause the spread of germs. An important step is to get a flu vaccination, especially for elderly people, people with certain chronic health conditions, and pregnant women.

Carry-on baggage Carry-on baggage on Aer Lingus services is restricted to one piece per person, as well as to the weights and measurements, illustrated below.

Passengers with wheelchair requirements Our priority is to always ensure the safety and comfort of all passengers. We encourage passengers who may need assistance to contact us well in advance of their date of travel to enable us to assess their needs.

Maximum weight

10kg 55cm (22ins)

If you are a wheelchair user or require wheelchair assistance when travelling on Aer Lingus services, please advise us of your requirements at least 48 hours in advance, quoting your booking reference number. Our contact details are as follows: email: Telephone: (Ireland) 0818 365 011 08:00 - 18:00 Mon-Fri & 09:00 - 17:00 Sat & Sun (UK) 0871 718 20 21 (Europe) + 353 1 886 8333 (USA) 516 622 4222



48cm (19ins)

(22 lbs)

24cm (9ins)

40cm (16ins)

Maximum weight

7kg (15 lbs)

20cm (8ins)

33cm (13ins)

In addition you may choose to carry on one of the following, which must be placed under the seat in front: Small ladies handbag/gents satchel = 25cm (10”) x 33cm (13”) x 20cm (8”) OR Duty Free shopping bag as well as: Baby-changing/food bag Medical/assistive devices EU security rules regarding liquids, gels and aerosols in cabin baggage apply. Flights departing the USA are subject to TSA security rules. Passengers in Row 1, or at an emergency exit, MUST store baggage in an overhead bin.

Safety brief We would like to bring your attention to the following safety and security measures: Please pay attention to any instructions given to you by the cabin crew. Any behaviour towards a fellow passenger or cabin crew that is deemed to be threatening or abusive (including the use of offensive language) is a serious matter. As our priority is the safety of all passengers, it is important not to interrupt the cabin crew while they carry out their duties, and not to interfere with aircraft equipment.

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As a service to passengers, alcohol is served in the airport lounges and on board. In the interests of safety, Aer Lingus may refuse to allow you board if it is thought too much alcohol has been consumed. While the majority of passengers are responsible, there have occasionally been incidents where intoxicated passengers have caused serious safety hazards. Passengers are reminded also that during the flight you may not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or any other

passenger. The consumption inflight of Duty Free alcohol purchased from the Sky Shopping service is also prohibited. This measure is, again, necessary in the interests of flight safety. If incidents of this kind occur during a flight, the cabin crew is obliged to contact police on arrival at your final destination. The Aircraft Captain may also divert the flight enroute in order to remove disruptive passengers. Should this happen, Aer Lingus will not

be responsible for getting you home, your ticket money will not be refunded, and – in addition to the authorities awaiting you on landing – you could be heavily fined and/or be liable to a prison sentence. In many cases, other airlines may subsequently refuse to allow you to fly with them. We emphasise that while on board the aircraft our priority is your safety. As always, we wish you a safe and enjoyable flight, as well as a safe onward journey.


Say goodbye to hair loSS

How a new pill can help restore your hair and self-confidence.

“Your hair loss stops and at the same time you see new hair. Your hair will look much bigger; it becomes heavier and thicker”


air loss can be a nightmare for both men and women. It can make sufferers feel less attractive, knocking confidence in the workplace and in relationships. In some cases it can lead to depression. Scientists at Oxford promise to make this a thing of the past. Their pill, TRX2, has only been on the market since 2011, but is on the verge of becoming Europe’s best-selling hair loss treatment. TRX2 is based on organic compounds, works far better than existing treatments and has no side-effects whatsoever. “Your hair loss stops and at the same time you see new hair. Your hair will look much bigger; it becomes heavier and thicker,” says Oxford Biolabs CEO Dr Thomas Whitfield.

Hair loss treatments often promise a lot without delivering, but TRX2 is backed by cutting-edge science and has been thoroughly tested. According to a trial, TRX2 works for 87% of men and women. The results can be impressive – the average hair count increases 35.1% after nine months and 49.2% after 18. Start TRX2 as early as possible in order to increase the chances of fully regaining your hair. TRX2 is suitable for men and women of all ages. The crystalline white capsules come in a brown glass bottle, which is sufficient for one month of treatment and costs approximately €49. The manufacturer offers a money-back guarantee if ordered via TRX2’s official website, and ships worldwide.

eXClUSiVe PaSSeNger deal Order via and use the coupon code ‘aerlingus’ to receive an exclusive 5% discount.

oxford Biolabs Ltd, the oxford Science Park, oxford, UK | |



top construction companies are developing high-profile projects on both sides of the irish Sea – the best forging relationships with ireland’s most successful and only nationwide plant and tool hire firm.


hether it’s the Meccano and Lego of childhood, or the bricks and mortar of industry, if you’re in the business of building you know intuitively that solid foundations and quality structures require just one thing. Span for span, mile for mile, block for block – construction success is built on thousands of reliable, unbreakable connections. So it makes sense that Ireland’s most progressive construction companies connect with the tool and plant hire company that bridges the Irish sea – HSS, Laois Hire group, which has increased its workforce and is looking at a 20pc growth path for 2013. Building success in good times or in bad is what it’s all about for Michael Killeen, the group’s Managing Director for Ireland and Scotland. In 1992 he founded Laois Hire with his wife Maureen, and the company merged into the HSS family in 2005 and has seen annual growth for the last five years. “We kept our best people, the best systems and we took on the market,” says Killeen on creating Ireland’s only nationwide plant and tool hire company. It’s this proactive, progressive attitude that explains why their plant is seen on the most high profile Irish construction sites. From the M50 to the Tralee by-pass and the Limerick Tunnel, as well as Dublin Airport’s Terminal 2 and multinational microchip manufacturing facilities, the HSS, Laois Hire brand is a strong, reliable presence. The recent major investment of new Kubota mini-excavators brings their fleet to over a hundred, the largest in Ireland; evidence of faith in, and commitment to the Irish construction industry. “It’s a major vote of confidence for their own business and for the industry as a whole,” says Tom Parlon, Director General of

Michael Killeen, Md HSS ireland and Scotland and tom Parlon, director General of the Construction industry Federation

Ireland’s Construction Industry Federation of the investment. Killeen makes at least four flights between Ireland, the UK and Scotland each week, so is very aware of the huge number of Irish contractors and their employees commuting on the same routes. So HSS, Laois Hire group’s natural next step is to offer their experience of success, reliability and high quality to Irish clients doing business in Scotland. Conducting business away from home doesn’t have to entail the tedious trial and error of making new connections abroad. Clients, used to excellence in customer service, a professional workforce, well-maintained, quality equipment and a commitment to health and safety from

HSS, Laois Hire group in Ireland can expect the exact same standards from Scotland’s 24 depots. Certainly, having 12 depots in Northern Ireland and 12 in the south makes smooth, commercial and financial sense for BAM Construction’s Plant Purchasing Manager, Brian Behan. “It’s a huge benefit. Wherever we are they’re within a stone’s throw,” he says, adding that, in a business where safety is paramount, “HSS, Hire Service Group is second to none. “BAM are going further afield and working with our sister companies in the UK, and HSS, Laois Hire will be one of our preferred hire suppliers,” he says, underlining the importance of consistency of supply and service across jurisdictions.

HSS HIRE IS YouR NatIoNWIdE HIRE compaNY NoRtHERN IRELaNd NI: 08457 28 28 28

SoutHERN IRELaNd RoI: 1800 22 33 66


Route maps


Aberdeen Glasgow




Isle of Man Blackpool DUBLIN Manchester London Birmingham HEATHRoW


Amsterdam London Dusseldorf SouTHEND Bristol Bournemouth London GATWICK Brussels Frankfurt











Zurich Geneva Lyon

Bordeaux Bilbao

Santiago de Compostela

Toulouse Perpignan Madrid


Milan lan

Marseille MALPENSA Nice

Venice Verona Ve Bologna Dubrovnik











Corfu Izmir





Agadir Lanzarote Tenerife

Fuerteventura Gran Canaria

To & From Dublin Austria Vienna

Czech Republic Prague

Belgium Brussels

Denmark Copenhagen

Bulgaria Bourgas

Finland Helsinki

Canary Islands Fuerteventura Gran Canaria Lanzarote Tenerife

France Bordeaux Lyon Marseille Nice Paris Perpignan Toulouse ■ Rennes

Croatia Dubrovnik

Germany Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Stuttgart Greece Athens Corfu Hungary Budapest Ireland ■ Kerry

Italy Bologna Catania Milan (Linate) Milan (Malpensa) Naples Rome Venice Verona The Netherlands Amsterdam Morocco Agadir Poland Warsaw

Portugal Faro Lisbon

Switzerland Geneva Zurich

Spain Alicante Barcelona Bilbao Ibiza Madrid Malaga Palma Santiago de Compostela

Turkey Izmir

Sweden Stockholm

United Kingdom Birmingham London (Gatwick) London (Heathrow) Jersey Manchester ■ United Kingdom Aberdeen Birmingham Blackpool Bournemouth Bristol Cardiff Edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man London Southend

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann For more information on schedules, please visit

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BELFAST Manchester



SHANNON Bristol London Heathrow













Palma Lisbon Faro

Alicante Malaga



Las Palmas

To & From Belfast, Cork, Shannon & Gatwick FROM BELFAST Flights operate from George Best Belfast City Airport

Portugal Faro Spain Malaga Palma United Kingdom London Heathrow London Gatwick

FROM CORK Belgium Brussels Canary Islands Lanzarote Tenerife Las Palmas France Nice Paris ■ Rennes Germany Munich

FROM GATWICK Portugal Faro Lisbon Spain Alicante Barcelona Malaga Palma Switzerland Geneva

United Kingdom London Heathrow ■ United Kingdom Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh Glasgow Jersey Manchester

Ireland Belfast Cork Dublin Ireland West Airport (Knock)

FROM SHANNON United Kingdom London Heathrow ■ United Kingdom Birmingham Edinburgh Manchester

FROM KNOCK ■ United Kingdom Birmingham London Gatwick

Portugal Faro

The Netherlands Amsterdam ■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann

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Boston New York




To & From Dublin & Shannon FROM DUBLIN


USA Boston Chicago New York Orlando

USA Boston New York (Via New York/Boston with JetBlue)

Chicago Orlando

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Calgary Winnipeg Vancouver Seattle Portland OR

Minneapolis Milwaukee

San Francisco San Jose


Burbank Long Beach Orange County


Burlington Toronto Buffalo

Syracuse Ro Rochester

Portland ME

Boston Pi Pittsburgh Nantucket Philadelphia neW York Des Moines Salt Lake City Indianapolis Columbus Baltimore Cincinnati ncinna Washington Greensboro Wichita Saint Louis Denver DuLLES uis Washington Wa NATIONAL Louisville Lexington Lex Richmond Ri Nashville Tulsa Raleigh - Durham Ra Las Vegas Oklahoma City Charlotte arlo Knoxville Memphis Omaha


Grand Rapids

Los Angeles Santa Ana San Diego



Cleveland Dayton on

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Atlanta Charleston



New Orleans

San Antonio

Jacksonville Orlando

Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami


San Juan Ponce Po

FLY BETWEEN THE FOLLOWING CITIES VIA DUBLIN, SHANNON, NEW YORK, BOSTON & CHICAGO new destinations with aer Lingus, in partnership with JetBlue, United airlines and aer arann Getting to the uS from destinations throughout Europe has never been easier. uS, Irish and European based customers can book a single low fare reservation between Ireland, Europe and a wide range of continental uS destinations using JFK New York, Boston and Chicago as stopovers. By choosing to fly to the united States via Dublin and Shannon with Aer Lingus, passengers can avail of united States Customs and Immigration Pre-clearance facilities at

Terminal 2, Dublin airport. This facility allows passengers travelling on the majority of uS bound flights to clear uS immigration and customs before departing Dublin and Shannon. Customers arrive in the uS without any further processing requirement allowing for a seamless transfer to their final destination. ■ neW York Connecting with JetBlue at JFk: Passengers travelling from the uS to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue domestic departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin. From april 3 2013, aer

Lingus flight operations will move from terminal 4 at John F. kennedy international airport into JetBlue’s acclaimed terminal 5, at JFk. ■ Boston Connecting with JetBlue at Boston Logan international airport: When you arrive from Dublin or Shannon, proceed directly to Terminal C for your JetBlue domestic departure. Passengers travelling from the uS to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin.

■ ChiCago Connecting with United airlines at o’hare Chicago international airport: On arrival at Terminal Five from Dublin or Shannon, make your way to the nearby ATS (Airport Transit System), which runs every four minutes to your uA domestic departure point. Passengers from the uS to Ireland and Europe can check in bags at the uA departure point, then exit security in Chicago O’Hare to take the Airport Transit System to Terminal Five for the onward Aer Lingus flight, and pick up their bags in Shannon or Dublin.

■ DUBLin Connecting with aer Lingus regional (operated by Aer Arann) at Dublin airport: Aer Lingus’s interline agreement with Aer Arann allows passengers connect to Aer Lingus transatlantic flights via Dublin Airport, where they can through check their luggage directly to their final uS destination.

All routes correct at time of going to press

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June 2013




Isle of Man Hamburg


Dublin Birmingham

Shannon kerry


london souTHenD london

cardiff Bristol






Dusseldorf Brussels Frankfurt

paris Vienna


Geneva Milan






santiago De compostela





palma alicante Faro

■ Via Dublin with aer lingus                          

alicante amsterdam Barcelona Berlin Birmingham Brussels Dusseldorf edinburgh Faro Frankfurt Geneva Hamburg london (Gatwick) london (Heathrow) Madrid Malaga Manchester Marseille Milan linate Milan Malpensa Munich naples palma paris rome santiago de compostela

   


stockholm Venice Vienna warsaw

■ Via Dublin with aer lingus Regional       

Bristol cardiff edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man london southend kerry

■ Via Shannon with aer lingus  london (Heathrow) ■ Via Shannon with aer lingus Regional    

Manchester Birmingham Bristol edinburgh

■ Via new YoRk with Jetblue                           

aguadilla austin Baltimore Boston Buffalo Burbank Burlington charlotte chicago Denver Fort lauderdale Fort Myers Houston Jacksonville las Vegas long Beach los angeles nantucket new orleans oakland orlando phoenix pittsburg ponce portland Me portland or raleigh-Durham

          

rochester sacramento salt lake city san Diego san Francisco san Jose san Juan seattle syracuse Tampa west palm Beach

■ Via boSton with Jetblue               

Baltimore Buffalo charleston charlotte chicago Dallas Fort worth Denver Ford lauderdale Fort Myers Jacksonville las Vegas long Beach los angeles nantucket new orleans

                

oakland orlando philadelphia phoenix pittsburg portland or raleigh-Durham richmond salt lake city san Diego san Francisco san Jose san Juan seattle Tampa washington (Dulles) washington (national)  west palm Beach

■ Via ChiCago with united to uSa       

atlanta austin charlotte charleston cincinnati chicago cleveland

                             

columbus Dallas (Fort worth) Dayton Denver Des Moines Detroit Fort Myers Grand rapids Greensboro Houston Indianapolis Jacksonville kansas city knoxville las Vegas lexington los angeles louisville Memphis Miami Milwaukee Minneapolis nantucket nashville new orleans oklahoma city omaha orange county phoenix pittsburgh

              

portland or raleigh-Durham rochester sacramento salt lake city san antonio san Diego san Francisco san Jose santa ana seattle st louis Tampa Tulsa wichita

■ Via ChiCago with united to Canada      

calgary edmonton salt lake city Toronto Vancouver winnipeg

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann June 2013

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Middle east and australasia route network


Bahrain Abu Dhabi


Kuala Lumpur Singapore



Abu Dhabi

Muscat Kuala Lumpur Singapore Bahrain Sydney Melbourne

Flights are operated by our codeshare partner, Etihad Airways.

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June 2013

Sydney Melbourne

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Just 13km from Dublin city centre and 10 minutes from Dublin Airport OFFICES IN NEW YORK CITY AND KILKENNY, IRELAND

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Flight Connections

CONNECTING TO ANOTHER AER LINGUS FLIGHT AT DUBLIN AIRPORT FLIGHTS ARRIvING AT TERmINAL 2 FLIGhT ConnECTIonS Connecting flight departs Gates 401 - 426 Arrivals Route to Baggage Reclaim from Gates 400s

FLIGhT ConnECTIonS Connecting flight departs Gates 100s - 300s

To Gates 100s 300s


Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk


Security Check

Lifts to Gates 401 - 426 Escalator to Gates 401 - 426

Terminal 2 Arrivals

If you already have a boarding card for your connecting flight, and your baggage has been tagged to your final destination, simply follow the sign for Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which you will see on your left hand side as you enter the Immigration Hall. By following this sign, you will proceed to Immigration and Security Check. After clearing these points, check the information screens and proceed to your boarding gate.

If your baggage has not been tagged to your final destination you must clear Immigration, enter the baggage reclaim area, collect your bag, exit through the Customs hall and proceed to Aer Lingus check-in on the departures level. Once you have reached the departures level, check the information screens for your onward flight information, and proceed as directed to the appropriate check-in desk.

If you have any queries, or need further assistance, please go to the Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which is located in the baggage reclaim area in Terminal 2, where our staff will be glad to help.

Please note: eU regulations concerning the carriage of liquids apply to your connecting flights at Dublin airport

Connecting at Heathrow Airport Transferring to an international flight at Heathrow? Please disembark from the rear of the aircraft where a dedicated coach will take you to the Heathrow Flight Connections area and reduce your journey time by an average of 20 minutes. Please disembark From THe BACK oF THe airCraFT iF:

Please disembark From THe FRONT oF THe airCraFT iF:

 You are an international connecting passenger and all your luggage* is checked through to your final destination

    

*Pushchairs checked to London can be collected from the back of the aircraft

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June 2013

london is your final destination Your onward connection is to a domestic Uk airport Your luggage needs to be collected from Heathrow You would like to leave the airport between flights You or someone you are travelling with needs special assistance

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loghan Castle is an exclusive, self catering venue ideal for that Fairytale Wedding or Party, the self catering option gives the unique opportunity to tailor your day to have it your way! Banquet Hall can seat up to 120 guests with 7 double bedrooms uniquely decorated giving an authentic castle experience in a luxurious way with central heating throughout. Ceremony and Drinks reception can be held on the battlements, in the courtyard, in our landscaped gardens or in our cosy Drawing Room with an Open Fire.

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BLANCHARDSTOWN CENTRE Dublin 15. Tel: 01 822 5990 ST STEPHENS GREEN Dublin 2. Tel: 01 478 1233 TEMPLE BAR Fleet St, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 672 8975 DUNDRUM TOWN CENTRE Tel: 01 298 7299 SWORDS Airside, Swords, Co Dublin Tel: 01 840 8525 BELFAST Level 2, Victoria Square, Tel: 028 9024 9050

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PROFESSIONAL FASHION DESIGN DIPLOMA P (3 years full-time) Trade For the Irish & International Clothing T rade & Associated Industries. 1 or 3 month trial fashion design courses for career & educational breaks Sept-May. Sept-May y. Also summer holiday day courses in fashion design or dressmaking. Evening and Saturday courses Dressmaking morning courses 6 Herbert Place, Dublin 2 Tel:+353 16763653 / 6767940 Email: .

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Flight Connections at New York JohN F keNNedY airport



From April 3 2013, Aer Lingus will operate from Terminal 5 at New York’s JFK Airport. While known as JetBlue’s T5, Aer Lingus will have its own dedicated area within the terminal, allowing for easy check in, baggage handling and seamless connections to destinations within the United States and Puerto Rico. With the move to T5, the minimum connection time from European arrivals to connecting JetBlue markets will be reduced to just 60 minutes. Customers traveling to Ireland will enjoy JetBlue connections as fast as 40 minutes.

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June 2013

The award-winning, stateof-the-art Terminal 5 offers great features and amenities, including:  Up to 15 security lanes  26 gates with seats aplenty  Free Wi-Fi  55,000 sq. feet of great food and shopping  Large children’s play area and much more!


Sekonda Chronograph Men’s Dress Watch This watch has a classic design and the chromed metal case is complemented with a brown and cream dial. The one-second chronograph and 24-hour readout are highlighted with cream sub dials. The watch is finished with a brown padded leather strap and is waterresistant to 50 metres. Guaranteed for 2 years.

Celtic Circles Pendant & Earrings Set by Trinity & Co. This exquisite set radiates feminine beauty. The pendant’s gold-plated shamrocks are carefully placed in Celtic circles. The matching shamrock earrings have a clear crystal for extra sparkle. Wear your good luck wherever you go.

Sekonda Crystalla Women’s Watch with FREE matching pendant A stone set case with mother-of-pearl dial is enhanced with the crystal ball cord bracelet. This watch fits all wrists and is adjusted by pulling open the bracelet and then pulling the beaded strings to your desired size. A free matching pendant makes this set an ideal evening accessory or a perfect gift. Guaranteed for 2 years.

Sky Shopping Aer Lingus welcomes you to our extensive range of amazing quality items onboard during June.

Please check your Sky Shopping brochure for all prices philosophy all stars by philosophy

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June 2013

| 135

Trip of a life Time | Unicef

A broad appeal

Ann Mackesy, a member of Aer Lingus’s senior cabin crew, discovers light and shade in Malawi, where UNICEF brings hope to many. arlier this summer I had the privilege of travelling to Malawi with seven Aer Lingus UNICEF ambassadors to see first-hand how the money raised in the Change for Good campaign on board our flights is spent to help improve the lives of some of the world’s poorest children. It was an amazing experience. Somehow words just don’t seem enough to tell the stories of the places we visited and the children we met. Their smiles were infectious and their laughter and high spirits just as lively as children who live in a much safer, more carefree environment in Ireland. The poverty was heart-breaking to see but, on the flipside, it was inspiring to hear the children who wanted to be doctors, teachers and accountants, and to meet enthusiastic nurses who, thanks to UNICEF, now have the tools to treat the vulnerable. On the first day of our field trip we visited Bwaila Maternity Hospital, Malawi’s largest maternity


136 |

June 2013

referral unit. The first thing that hit me was the overwhelming smells and the lack of basic comfort. Room after room, even hallway after hallway, was overcrowded – some mothers lay two or three to a bed on rubber mattresses, while others were lying on stone floors, having just given birth without pain relief. Bed sheets were so scarce that many patients had brought their own. At least 40 babies are born at the hospital every single day – that’s almost two an hour or 1,200 per month. There are too few nurses, even fewer midwives, and just six doctors to attend to the entire hospital. But still they do their very best. One matron told us that there was a restriction on the number of operations that could be performed due simply to the lack of sutures used to close wounds. But, despite such challenges, the hospital provides amazing services, from ante- to post-natal care, alongside child immunisation clinics and family planning services. Local women know that attending the

Above, left, an anxious mother looks on at an overcrowded ward in Bwaila Maternity Hospital. Right, Ann Mackesy getting hands on with a nurse and a newborn.

clinics could significantly improve their children’s lives. Behind every place we visited over the week was a real mix of emotions. One was a “child friendly school” (surely there should be no other kind?), another a brand new unit funded by UNICEF for victims of sexual abuse. An Irish paediatrician gave us a tour, his delight with the new facilities a welcome contrast to the wrongdoings that would be treated there. On our last day we met families who had to survive on a few pennies a day, but we saw that their very existence was vastly improved by UNICEF giving them $10 per month – such a small sum in developing countries, but huge for a family in Malawi. It was clear that hope was fuelled by UNICEF’s vital efforts. For instance, just one more incubator, one more CTG machine to monitor a baby’s heartbeat, one more oxygen tank at Bwaila Maternity Hospital would make its care and services so much more effective. I strongly appeal to our passengers to continue donating whatever they can for our Change for Good campaign. Those funds collected on board our flights really do make a big difference to the lives of millions. For more information or to make a donation,

Cara Magazine June 2013