CARA Magazine July 2015
The Frames Sweet Success Donegal Coast
Treasures of the Donegal coast
Rome in the Picture
Scene stealing in Italy’s capital
Eat, Drink, Chicago
Chi-town’s foodie delights
7 Best European Beaches
Portugal’s chic retreat
Staying Power The Frames on 25 years making it
BUSINESS WITH BENEFITS BARCELONA’S BOOM TOWN
Edinburgh Tenerife Nantes Barcelona Business
Sweet Success IRELAND’S CANDY-COLOURED FOODIE REVOLUTION
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Check in 05 ARRIVALS We meet’n’greet Aer Lingus passengers at Dublin’s T2 07 CHECK IN Where to eat, sleep, shop and sightsee this July 20 ON MY TRAVELS Presenter and style queen Angela Scanlon’s roving reports 22 UP TO SPEED Marathon training starts now, so here’s Ruth Anna Coss’ power kit 24 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK John ‘Memo’ Molloy’s most lingering destinations 26 WEEKENDER Niamh Wade chills out at the Ice House, Co Mayo 28 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican vicariously travels the globe in 36 hours 30 CREATIVE FAIR Jessie Collins’ summer edit of Irish arts festivals 32 RAINBOW TRAIL The GastroGays’ LGBT guide to Dublin
54 Donegal’s golden coast
The Frames’ reflect
Features 34 STAYING POWER The Frames tell Tony Clayton-Lea about turning 25 40 SWEET SUCCESS Aoife Carrigy meets Irish sweet makers 54 NORTHERN EXPOSURE Pól Ó Conghaile takes roads less travelled in Donegal
66 WHAT’S COOKING? Let Jody Eddy be your guide to Chicago’s food scene 80 THE REELS OF ROME John Butler’s cinematic city trail 92 COOL CASCAIS Eoin Higgins explores Lisbon’s mellow neighbour 104 7 BEST BEACHES Fionn Davenport’s short-haul picks 112 MASTERCLASS Eleanor Costello makes whiskey
Rome in the picture
114 48 HOURS AROUND EDINBURGH Frances Power lords it up in the kingdom of Fife
123 BUSINESS & LIFE Networking events and executive inspiration
117 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO TENERIFE Cliodna O’Flynn shows us around 120 SPOTLIGHT Nantes ticks all the boxes for Daragh Reddin
126 BUSINESS SLEEPS & EATS Manchester’s business hot spots 128 SMART TRAVELLER KesselsKramer’s Engin Celikbas on London
139 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT Your in-flight news and entertainment
130 BUSINESS WITH BENEFITS Barcelona has never been hotter for startups, says Trevor Baker
168 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Aer Lingus’ Melanie Kialka heads to Rwanda with Unicef
136 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Alex Milton, programme director of Irish Design 2015
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Contributors Eoin Higgins has been a Cara contributor,
EDITORIAL Editor Jessie Collins Deputy Editor Lucy White Assistant Editor Eleanor Costello Sub-editor Sheila Wayman Contributors Jeanne Sutton, Ruth Anna Coss and Bridget Hourican
in a number of guises – from in-house acting editor to food writer – since 2012. A graduate of Dublin City University, he has previously written for The Guardian, The Irish Times, Time Out and Dorling Kindersley travel guides. Higgins has lived in Boston, Barcelona and LA. He currently lives in Dublin, without a cat. In this issue, Higgins takes on the role of photographer, as well as writer. Join him on page 92 as he uncovers the beauty of Cascais, Portugal, through words and images.
Editorial Director Laura George ART Art Director Clare Meredith Acting Art Director Fred Murray Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan ADVERTISING Sales & Partnership Director Rhona McAuliffe +353 (0)1 271 9634, firstname.lastname@example.org Advertising Manager Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622, email@example.com Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855, firstname.lastname@example.org ADMINISTRATION Events & Communications Manager Niamh Wade, +353 (0)1 271 9653, email@example.com Financial Controller Olga Gordeychuk Credit Controller Lisa Dickenson Accounts Assistant Angela Bennett Chief Executive Officer Clodagh Edwards
Jody Eddy is a professional cook who
has worked in the kitchens of Tabla and Jean Georges in Manhattan and Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck in Bray, England. She’s the former executive editor of Art Culinaire Magazine and author of cookbooks Come In, We’re Closed: An Invitation to Staff Meals at The World’s Best Restaurants and North: The New Nordic Cuisine of Iceland, and writes for publications Travel + Leisure, The Wall Street Journal, and Food & Wine Magazine. Minnesota-born, she resides in western Ireland and is researching a new cookbook profiling the nation’s traditional producers. Feast on her Chicago guide, page 66.
BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Laura George Directors Patrick Dillon Malone, Laura George, Robert Power, Ann Reihill, Gina Traynor PRINTING Boylan Print Group ORIGINATION Typeform
John Butler directed and co-wrote The Stag (2014), starring Andrew Scott – the film premiered at the Toronto and Tribeca film festivals and sold worldwide. Before that, he directed Immaturity for Charity (2012) starring Brendan and Domhnall Gleeson. In 2011 he directed and co-wrote the sketch show Your Bad Self, and his debut novel The Tenderloin was shortlisted at the Irish Book Awards. Other writing has appeared in the Irish Times, The Dublin Review and The San Francisco Chronicle. Check out his Roman film locations tour on page 80.
Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3 Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9625; fax +353 (0)1 280 8309; image.ie, email firstname.lastname@example.org. Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGE Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Publications Ltd.
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ON THE COVER
Nicole Dunphy of Pandora Bell photographed by Anthony Woods, exclusively for Cara magazine.
Welcome to our new issue! We are all take yours. Feel free to ay for this magazine aw ey. your onward journ e your We would also lov l feedback and trave r photos via Twitte . @CARAMagazine
WHO? From left, Jenny Dillon and Seoidín Cunningham FLYING IN FROM ... London Heathrow JENNY SAYS ... “We’ve flown back to have some fun with the family up in Cavan.”
WHO? Dominic Shivers FLYING IN FROM ... Thailand via Brussels DOMINIC SAYS ... “I’ve been travelling around South East Asia for the past ten weeks but sadly it’s back home to Derry now.”
WHO? Lily Barton FLYING IN FROM ... Halifax LILY SAYS ... “I’m off to Tipperary for a friend’s wedding.”
It’s a homecoming for many passengers flying into Dublin Airport’s T2. Cara magazine was there to greet them.
WHO? Rachel Ganter FLYING IN FROM ... London Gatwick RACHEL SAYS ... “I’m home visiting all my loved ones for a few days. We are heading to Roundstone for some relaxation too.”
WORDS BY NIAMH WADE / PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANTHONY WOODS
WHO? From left, Sinéad and Rita Fahey FLYING IN FROM ... Isle of Man SINÉAD SAYS ... “I live in Kent but decided to pop home and vist the family.”
WHO? Giovanna Arves and Luiz Piazza FLYING IN FROM ... London Heathrow LUIZ SAYS ... “We were back home in Brazil for four months. We’ve returned for work, and there’s still lots of Ireland we want to see.” WHO? Olga Brady FLYING IN FROM ... London Gatwick OLGA SAYS ... “I’m very excited to be home as I’m going bridesmaid shopping in Dublin. I’ll also catch up with my family and friends.”
WHO? From left, Helen Kinsella, Niamh and Aurelia Kinsella Frenette FLYING IN FROM ... Paris HELEN SAYS ... “Friends and family are having us to stay in Dublin and Wexford.”
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Find out what’s on, where and when in July 2015
Sands of Time
CLIFFORD COFFIN. SIN TÍTULO/ UNTITLED, 1949
They say that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery so let’s assume that Constable, Vermeer, Gauguin et al would have been delighted by a new photographic exhibition from the Vogue archive at Madrid’s Museo Thyssen. Entitled Vogue Like a Painting, some 60 images show the enduring symbiosis between fashion and fine art, with leading photographers including Annie Leibovitz, Steven Klein, Erwin Olaf and Mario Testino gleaning inspiration from the Spanish Golden Age, Dutch portraiture, Victorian-era paintings, the Pre-Raphaelites and more. Runs until October 12. museothyssen.org
Check in Compiled by Lucy White, Eleanor Costello and Eoin Higgins.
4 4 Wonderful Waterside Hotels Enjoy balmy days and nights beside the uisce this summer …
Hotel des Balances, Lucerne Drawing back the
curtains to the Old Town each morning is pretty sweet, but when your room also overlooks the river Reuss, it’s heaven. Even if you don’t book a stylish room at this beautiful Swiss sanctuary – where top-floor single rooms have riverside balconies – book a table at its Venetian-style terrace. Rooms from CHF 220 (€210). balances.ch
Dylan Hotel, Amsterdam
Situated canal-side, this 40room, five-star has immaculate interiors – herringbone brick flooring, handcrafted beams, free-standing marble bathtubs – making it ideal for discerning love birds looking for old-world romance combined with 21stcentury comforts. Including a Michelin-starred restaurant, Vinkeles. Rooms from €325. dylanamsterdam.com
Hotel Vitale, San Francisco Rooms with a
view don’t get much better than this: San Francisco Bay, baby. Get an eyeful of the iconic bridge and the fancy Embarcadero area from one of several choices of rooms (there are also lovely, street-view boltholes), while Americano Restaurant and Bar also has terrific vistas. Rooms from $300. jdvhotels.com
Wineport Lodge, Athlone
Nothing beats waking up to the sight of sunlight bouncing off water, which, weather permitting, you get at this four-star in Co Westmeath: beds are positioned so that they’re facing floor-toceiling windows. Also nice – supping a pint of St Mel’s Helles Lager (brewed in neighbouring Co Longford) on the terrace overlooking Lough Ree. Rooms from €74. wineport.ie
Nautical and Nice Maritime fans are truly spoilt this month. Belfast’s Tall Ships Festival returns to the Titanic Quarter July 2-5, with more than 50 vessels from all over the world anchored before their race to Norway (tallshipsbelfast.com). The impressive topmasts, right, will be spotted from all over the city but get up close, for free, to experience their enormity. And from July 17-19, Bristol Harbour Festival (bristolharbourfestival.co.uk), brings together food vendors, musicians, artists, dancers and acrobatics, including crowd-pleasers Cirque Bijou. Celebrations take place across a three-kilometre stretch of the city, the backdrop provided by ships of all shapes and sizes along the Avon. 8|
Five-Star Finds Design showcase CREATE returns to Dublin’s Brown Thomas for a fifth outing. Championing the talents of 50 Irish craftspeople this year, from textile and jewellery designers – including pieces by Bláithín Ennis, such as her Marline cuff above – to printmakers, dressmakers and milliners, the six-week, pop-up installation runs in-store until August 16. brownthomas.com
WORLDS OF IMAGINATION A plethora of events to fire up the imaginations of mums, dads and kids as family-oriented events come to the fore in July. The Festival of Curiosity (July 23-26; festivalofcuriosity.ie) sees Dublin city come alive in a cultural feast of science, art, design and technology. Watch the city transform, by day and by night, with free events including treasure trails, Lego building, rocket launches, shows and workshops. Colour! (July 14 to August 23; ark.ie) at The Ark, in Dublin’s Temple Bar, will host exhibitions, workshops, performances and talks for ages two-plus and their families. Move through an interactive exhibition that brings to life the fascinating stories of creating and using colour in all its forms.
The Street Performance World Championships (cityspectacular. com), right, take place in Dublin’s Merrion Square on July 10-12 and in Cork’s Fitzgerald Park on July 18-19. Entry is free and the popular event will feature a 34-time GuinnessWorld-Record-holding sword swallower, metal bar-bending strong woman, fast-footed football freestyler and children’s workshops in science, theatre, music and art. Meanwhile, Spraoi (July 31 to August 2; spraoi.com) is an international urban arts festival taking place in Waterford over the July/August bank holiday weekend featuring engaging street theatre, raucous musicians and imaginative parading, as well as hundreds of performers doing their thing throughout the city over the long weekend.
Feeling Supersonic Plane spotters united! On July 19 the annual Bray Air Show (brayairdisplay.com) returns to Co Wicklow’s coastal town, where more than 80,000 spectators are expected to ooh and aah at aerobatic feats and fly-pasts from 2pm. This year the Patrouille Suisse daredevils, right, make their Irish debut, performing aerial stunts in six supersonic jet aircraft. That same weekend, on July 18, is another free air display at Co Clare’s Shannon 10 |
Take a Load Off
Airport to celebrate its 70th anniversary (shannonairdisplay.com). There, the historic Vampire planes from
Norway, and the British Midair Squadron’s Hunter and Canberra aircraft, will rule the skies.
The idea behind The Stork Exchange is so genius we wondered how on earth jet-setting families coped without it. Rather than lugging around buggies, booster seats, high chairs, travel cots and baby monitors on their travels, parents can now hire all of the above, and more, at Dublin and Shannon airports respectively. Top-of-the-range equipment can be collected from the airport office, or delivered, while car seats can even be installed at a chosen location, be it a car rental office, private residence or hotel. Like we said – genius. thestorkexchange.ie
From a distance … “I came to London twelve years ago. My wife is a Londoner and it was always the plan to move here. I think it’s very healthy for a writer to be an immigrant. Writers are solitary people anyway – but being out of Ireland can give you good perspective on it and yourself.” Playwright and screenwriter Enda Walsh may have moved to Britain primarily for personal reasons but, in turn, his career sky-rocketed. In 2012, he bagged a Tony award for his stage adaptation of John Carney’s smash hit film musical Once – which, incidentally, comes home to Dublin this July 14 to August 22, at the Olympia theatre (oncemusical.ie). But before that he had already received critical and commercial acclaim for his sucker-punch Cillian Murphy triptych – Disco Pigs, both play (1996) and film (2001), and plays Misterman (2012) and Ballyturk (2014) – and as the screenwriter for Steve McQueen’s multi awardwinning Bobby Sands film, Hunger (2008). Walsh is teaming up once again with composer/Crash Ensemble founder Donnacha Dennehy (with whom he created Misterman) and actor Mikel Murfi (who starred in Ballyturk) for a new opera, The Last Hotel; the dark lovechild of Ireland’s Landmark Productions and Wide Open Opera (thelasthotel.ie). It will have its world premiere at the Edinburgh International Festival on August 7-12 before, no doubt, transferring to Ireland to cement further his reputation as an international tour de force. He admits the Ireland he left is not the same as it is now – and is all the better for it. “I’m really delighted to see a continuing edge and experimentation to the theatre of some of the younger Irish companies,” he says. “They’ve moved far away from ‘the well-made play’ and blown things up a bit. Louise Lowe from Anu Productions is an absolute genius.” Well, it takes one to know one …
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4 Cracking Coffee Shops …
Conor Naughton of the independently run Suas Coffee House in Ennis, Co Clare, knows a thing or two about coffee. Here are his favourite places for a cup of Joe.
H E W TH O M
The Fumbally, Dublin A stone’s throw from St Patrick’s Cathedral, The Fumbally is very well known in Dublin due to its unique, bohemian vibe. The menu falls within the tasty, comfort food realm and what they do, they do rather well. Order a coffee, settle in next to a laptopped, start-up upstart, or a studiously dishevelled gap-year gran, and take in the eclectic scene. Feast on … Fumbally eggs: scrambled with Gubbeen cheese and tomatoes, on brioche. thefumbally.ie
Télescope, Paris Found close to Palais Royal in the 1st arrondissement, this is a minimalist coffee shop, with a well-deserved reputation for serving some of the finest coffee in La Ville Lumière. Here, attention to detail and a precisely executed coffee service mean that a consistently great cup is served. Get in early to avail of the other tasty treats. Feast on … The menu is compact, and the selection everchanging, but their banana bread is amazing. telescopecafe.com
Stumptown Coffee Roasters, New York With its vintage, bookstore interior and its prime location in the heart of leafy Greenwich Village, Stumptown has a warm, yet energetic, feel to it. The oak panelling, tiled floor, soft lighting and custom espresso machine only add to the stay-a-while atmosphere. Pull a stool up to the brew bar at the rear of the shop and sample some of New York’s best coffee. Feast on … Simple: coffee and doughnuts. What more does a person need?
The Barn, Berlin In the centre of Berlin (Mitte), The Barn is at the vanguard of the European coffee revolution. Not just a café business, the folks behind The Barn are accomplished roasters too; their roastery, located just around the corner from the café, distributes single origins and coffee blends to some of the finest coffee houses in Europe. Feast on … Relax outside in the Berlin sunshine with a coffee tasting board and their famous carrot cake. Combined, it’s a taste sensation.
FOOD & WINE
The Sound of Cork(s) Popping
A tapas frenzy will be gripping four eateries in Cork this month (July 7-22) as the Campo Viejo Tapas Trail (campoviejotapastrail.ie) joins the lovely Lee in winding its way through the city. From the beautiful Bodega, to the bustling new Brick Lane, Corkonians will have the chance to engage with Spanish food and wine at four city restaurants, alongside friendly hosts offering insight into the art of the tapa. Next up: Galway gets its turn from August 26 to September 9.
Need a serious caffeine hit? Or even just a moderate pick-meup? Not many coffee shops offer more than ten different strengths in one place, but Dublin’s Nespresso Boutique on Duke Street does, and more, across two stylish floors. There’s a self-service section, Club Room, Recycling Zone and a Tasting Bar, where welltrained baristas serve up your preferred brew. nespresso.ie
g us: lbourne Hotel is really spoilin ALL THAT SNAZZ Dublin’s She k every eggs Benedict you can thin its Sunday Jazz Brunch boasts ly Kel ce serts trolley), and its Gra of (not to mention a spiffing des tronomic beauty. marriott.com afternoon tea is a thing of gas 14 |
Join us to celebrate the very best of Irish fashion, design and craft. 50 exciting and emerging Irish designers.
15 fashion designers 5 milliners 4 accessory designers 7 glass makers 5 ceramicists 14 craft designers Visit Brown Thomas on Grafton Street, Dublin 2.
Wish you were here Cork born and bred, amateur photographer Darren J Spoonley took this magestic shot of the Cliffs of Moher in Co Clare. “I planned my arrival just before sunset,” he says. “The imposing size and raw beauty of the cliffs have been a favourite of mine for many years, and I knew that the sun’s warm glow would light them up in magnificent colours.”
Have you a stunning photograph of your trip to an Aer Lingus destination to share? Send it to us at firstname.lastname@example.org and weâ€™ll publish our favourite shot in the August issue. The technicals: Photographs must be a 300-dpi high resolution file and please include 100 words about you and the story behind the shot. The editorâ€™s decision is final.
On My Travels
TV presenter, fashion writer and stylist Angela Scanlon tells Niamh Wade about her globetrotting exploits. Co-host of RTE/BBC’s holiday series Getaways, Scanlon is used to living out of her suitcase. Dublin is home but work regularly takes her to the UK where, last year, she hosted London Fashion Weekend (she is also the digital MC of The Voice UK). A familiar face on Irish TV, she has fronted documentaries including RTE’s Full Frontal and Oi Ginger!, with more in the pipeline. hildhood holliers were spent … Travelling around Ireland. We eventually upgraded to DisneyWorld, but one summer in Trabolgan, Cork, still stands out. The funniest travel experience I had was ... Spending the night in jail with a friend in Mexico while on a J1 in America. It’s definitely funnier in hindsight! The most extreme activity I ever tried was ... Skydiving – twice. Once in San Diego, once in Australia over the Great Barrier Reef. I’ve always been terrified of heights so I had to force myself to do it. I also did the Edgewalk in Toronto while filming Getaways – that was actually more terrifying than jumping from a plane. I definitely want to go back to ... India. It has always fascinated me as a country: the colours,
the smells, the mayhem, it is the most exotic and wonderful place I’ve ever been. My dream holiday would be ... To Cuba. I am currently obsessed with it and desperate to get there sooner rather than later. It looks so foreign, so postcard-perfect, like the set of a Wes Anderson movie. My least favourite place was ... Also one of my favourite places; I have a love/hate relationship with Bangkok. The initial assault to the senses can be overwhelming but it is the most fun city in the world, and eating noodles from a box on the side of the street is fabulous. I always pack ... Thermal water spray, a straw hat, SPF and an oversized white shirt. I'm allergic to the sun, which is not ideal when you present a travel show, but I usually manage to keep it under control. I actually own SPF110. It exists. And it works.
My guilty pleasure on holiday is ... Cocktails at breakfast followed by copious napping. At the moment I’m … Shooting Getaways, so my trips away are pretty frequent. I’m writing this from Greece and have just come back from Florida, which involved me successfully flying a jet-pack and crashing a Segway. I’m working hard on persuading the producers to let me go to Ethiopia, Cuba and Japan … My favourite style city is … New York. I lived there for six months after college and it blew me away. I remember looking at people in awe, at them wearing the most ridiculously impractical things but without a hint of selfconsciousness – they could be whoever they wanted (and that felt pretty cool at the time). Paris is an obvious style city but that’s partly because they stick to a formula, which, over time, I’m sure is dull as hell.
3 Style Magnets …
1 PHILIPPE HALSMAN
Audrey Hepburn: Portraits of an Icon, London This exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery illustrates the timeless style of the much-loved actress, left. Some 60 defining images are here, from her early career as a West End chorus girl to her philanthropic work in later life. July 2 to October 18. npg.org.uk
Jean Paul Gaultier, Paris Subtitled From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk, this touring show at the Grand Palais has more than 160 couture and ready-to-wear pieces by the French designer, including Madonna’s conical corset, plus photos by Pierre et Gilles, Andy Warhol and more. Until August 3. grandpalais.fr
My jammiest travel gig was … The first press trip I ever went on. Someone dropped out at the last minute so I packed my bags and headed off. We had breakfast in Austria, lunch in Germany and dinner in Switzerland. We met Bond film stars and ate the best food, partied until sunrise and headed home with a sugar hangover. My idea of holiday hell would be … Getting an itinerary – because I travel so much for work, a “real life” holiday should feel like an escape. I’d hate anything that involves me being awake for more than six-hour periods or exerting myself in any way. My main motivation is finding a place so removed from civilisation that there is no WiFi; a self-imposed tech retreat where you can’t sneak to the loo to check your emails or give in to Instagram. Basically, I would live like a vagabond.
The Rise of Sneaker Culture, New York Did you know that the humble runner dates back to the 19th century? Witness their rise to pop-culture fame at the Brooklyn Museum, where 150 pairs chart their evolution via music trends and strides in technology. July 10 to October 4. brooklynmuseum.org
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Up to Speed
Training for the Dublin Marathon starts now. Here's your power kit, says Ruth Anna Coss. X-Run Ultra Windstopper Gloves by Gore, €55.95 at goreapparel.eu
Kinvara 6 Trainers by Saucony, £105 at saucony.co.uk
Ebe Run Tights by Odlo, €80 at odlo.com
Fitness Tracking Band by Microsoft, £169.99 at 02.co.uk
Midlayer Zip Up Jacket by Stella McCartney for Adidas, €155 at brownthomas.com
Lightweight Running Jacket by The North Face, €80 at thenorthface.ie Letho Sports Bra by dhb, £14.60 at wiggle.co.uk Speed of Lite Running Short by Saucony, £35 at saucony.co.uk Skylon Ace XV Volt Sunglasses by Nike, €127 at Debenhams, Henry Street, Dublin 1
Running Cap by The North Face, €30 at thenorthface.ie
Duo Hot & Cold Knee Pack by Therapearl, £13.62 at wiggle.co.uk
Fitness Micro G Assert Trainer by Under Armour, €95 at Life Style Sports nationwide
You can drink Guinness the world over.
The GUINNESS and GUINNESS STOREHOUSE words and associated logos are trademarks. (c) Guinness & Co. 2015
But you can only experience it here.
The Storehouse is the home of the story of Guinness, and Ireland’s number one visitor attraction. Behind these gates you can explore seven ﬂoors of the intertwining history of Guinness, Dublin and Ireland. Then top off your visit in the top ﬂoor Gravity Bar, where Dublin, quite literally, spreads out beneath your feet, and the perfect pint awaits.
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Guinness Storehouse®, St James’s Gate, Dublin 8.
My Travel Notebook Tipperary man JOHN MOLLOY co-founded Memo Fragrances with his Spanish wife and business partner, Clara, in 2007. Inspired by whiffs discovered while on their travels, their products (scents, candles and diffusers) are stocked exclusively in Brown Thomas – and soon, at New York’s iconic Bergdorf Goodman department store. He divides his time between their office in Paris and their home in Geneva. Here he tells Lucy White about his favourite trips.
MOST FRAGRANT PLACE YOU’VE EVER VISITED? “The Kedu area around Borobudur, Indonesia – walking through Borobudur, or sipping a ginger tea at evening time, with the scent of roasted sesame jasmine and tuberose …”
BIG SMOKE STU DIO SPACEX
FAVOURITE WEEKEND BREAK? “Granada, Spain. From morning until evening, no matter where you turn your head, you’re surrounded by beauty in the Alhambra Palace – the Persian art left by the Arab occupation. And I’ve fond memories of meandering hand-inhand with Clara in the old town, with jasmine and orange blossom lingering in the warm evening air.”
FAVOURITE CITY FOR SHOPPING? “New York. Simply, it has the best service. Having spent 20 years in the fashion industry, I hate shopping so I jump at one-stop shopping opportunities and hotel deliveries.”
IF YOU COULD FLY ANYWHERE TOMORROW, IT’D BE TO … “Mars, with SpaceX. I’m a huge [Canadian/ American entrepreneur] Elon Musk fan.”
MOST SURPRISING PLACE YOU’VE EVER VISITED? “Lake Inle in Myanmar. The subtle smell of floating gardens and the choreography of fishermen gathering their nets are impossible to forget.”
BEST HOTEL YOU’VE EVER STAYED IN? “Park Hyatt Tokyo (Nishi Shinjuku, Shinjuku-Ku, +81 3 5322 1234; tokyo.park. hyatt.com), for the service, the glimpse of Mount Fuji, the 20-metre pool on the 47th floor – and for the hot sake in its restaurant Kozue for feeling human again after a long flight.” 5
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Facing seaweed both on and off sandy beaches, Niamh Wade chills at the Ice House in Co Mayo.
here’s something to Dublin and Liverpool by boat in rather wonderful the 19th century, the riverside Ice about the simplicity House hotel is aptly named. It’s hard of dressing only not to appreciate the architecture, in swimwear and with its chic pairing of old-meets-new a robe. No make-up, hair styling across its 32 bedrooms – divided into or wardrobe planning. As I sip Deluxe, Riverside and Heritage – and peppermint tea, with a leather fine art by Charles Tyrrell, Martin lounger propping me up to watch Gale and John Devlin. I’m staying birds dipping and diving in the River in one of the contemporary riverside Moy, I’m almost too comfortable suites, whose floor-to-ceiling windows to move to the outdoor Riverside frame a breakfastThermal area’s barrel sauna and hot worthy balcony and the tub. I squish the packet of fresh, ubiquitous Moy. And bagged seaweed in my pocket – a with two televisions – one token from my talented therapist, in the bedroom and one in who had earlier administered a the lounge area – in-room 90-minute VOYA Deluxe Facial in dining starts to look very the Chill Spa. I’m not so sure I’ll appealing, especially postbe able to re-create the treatment spa when even clothes feel at home, unless, that is, I can find like an effort ... (It was the somebody with magic hands to right decision: my seafood exfoliate and massage my back before chowder is hard to beat.) letting the power of kelp When I finally take centre stage on my emerge all brightface. Nope, I think eyed and my DIY facial will bushy-tailed WILD SIDE be a comparative the next day, The Ballina Salmon disappointment – I explore the Festival leaps into town but I’ll remember rest of the hotel. July 8-12. Book an Ice House the Zen-like The stylish bar summer rate: from €55 feeling at least. is in the former B&B per person sharing or Having once underground, €199 per room including been the holding fish storage area, breakfast and dinner. place for tons of whose original stone icehousehotel.ie wild salmon en route walls are intact and
A sight for sore eyes – wake up to the bewitching River Moy at the Ice House, top. Above, soak it all up in the hotel’s spa.
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where glass squares in the ceiling denote gaps where salmon was thrown for storage (thankfully the odour is long gone). And in the modern riverside restaurant, wood panels are offset with panoramas and outdoor decking. Considering the property’s history, I thought it only right to order the salmon; fresh, pan-seared, and served with pea purée, citrus mussel cream and honey-glazed veg. The hotel’s Ballina location makes it a great base for exploring the stunning surroundings – head west for Mayo, or ten minutes east to Sligo. I go forth to Enniscrone, a seaside town with five kilometres of golden sandy beach. I bypass the surfing option and instead enjoy a good stretch of the legs on the sands. Wild of (windswept) hair, I eventually return to my car – and its dead battery. Fortunately Tracey’s Café and Surf Shop saves the day as it serves tremendous coffee and also has jump leads. Unfortunately, I run out of time to visit the Foxford Woollen Mills (foxfordwoollenmills. com) – one of the last working mills in Ireland, dating back to 1892 – so I have a good excuse to return ... not that I need one.
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Behind The Lines
JUMANA EL-HELOUEH FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
Lisa McInerney on crafting her first novel.
NYT. 36 HOURS. WORLD edited by Barbara
Ireland (Taschen, €99.99) Since 2002, the New York Times has been offering smart tips on what to do and see, and where to eat and stay, in the world’s cities when you’ve only got a day and a half – after all, 36 hours is but a capsule weekend. In 2011, Taschen started collecting these columns and publishing them in thematic books: USA and Canada; Europe; Asia and Oceania. Now it has published all three volumes in a box set, from A-Z: 365 getaways from Abu Dhabi – above, the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque – to Zurich, via 1,000 photos, illustrations and detailed maps. The NYT writers know their stuff and these are savvy, insider tips. The digital edition is handiest when on the road, so save the three big hardbacks for armchair travelling.
Bridget Hourican vicariously travels the globe in 36 hours, and catches up with author Lisa McInerney.
AILBH O’DON E
WHAT IS THE GLORIOUS HERESIES ABOUT? It starts with jolt: a middle-aged woman accidentally kills an intruder with a religious ornament. This affects four other misfits who exist on the fringes of post-crash Ireland: an unrepentant gangster, an alcoholic dad, a sex worker and a teenage drug dealer. WHAT DOES THE TITLE REFER TO? It’s a pun on the “Glorious Mysteries of the Rosary”, and so suits the scope and nature of my characters’ various transgressions; heretics is probably the nicest thing you could call them. WHERE DID YOU WRITE IT? At home in south Co Galway, overlooking the Burren. It’s the perfect spot for writing – nicely out of the way and very quiet. DIFFERENCES BETWEEN NOVEL WRITING AND BLOGGING? With a blog you’re working at breakneck speed, especially if, like I did, you aim to post five days a week. The turnover is fast and the feedback instant. With a novel you get time and space to make the text as beautiful as you can, and do justice to your ideas and your characters. BEST BOOK TO TAKE ON A JOURNEY? David Mitchell’s Cloud Atlas – six stunning books in one, and what better way to celebrate a journey than to read through time and place, from the 19th century right up to the end of days? The Glorious Heresies (John Murray, €16.99) is out now. Catch Lisa McInerney at West Cork Literary Festival (July 13), Earagail Arts Festival (July 26) and Edinburgh Book Festival (August 28).
3 Best British Walks … LONDON OVERGROUND: A DAY’S WALK AROUND THE GINGER LINE by Iain Sinclair (Hamish Hamilton, £13.99) In the follow-up to 2002’s London Orbital, Sinclair takes the newest rail network known as “the Ginger Line”. By way of Dalston, Camden, West Hampstead and Surrey Quays, Sinclair rails against property speculation and celebrates the various oddballs/geniuses along the way.
WALKING AWAY by Simon Armitage (Faber & Faber, £13.99) In Walking Home (2012), selfconfessed troubadour Armitage took the 412-kilometre Pennine Way towards his birthplace in North Yorkshire, busking in exchange for food and shelter. Now he goes the same distance again, but south, from Minehead in Somerset to Land’s End in Cornwall and on to the Isles of Scilly.
PATHLANDS: TRANQUIL WALKS THROUGH BRITAIN by Peter Owen Jones (Rider, £12.09) Over the course of a year, the Sunday Times’ walks correspondent/Anglican clergyman, took those “everyday paths through villages that people use to walk their dogs”, from Cornwall to Scotland. He is no stickler for maps, and to get back on track he goes through ditches and climbs fences ...
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Works of Art f film, art and good times are what you seek, you could do a lot worse than relocate (unless you are already there) to Galway for most of July. Kicking off with the Galway Film Fleadh (July 7-12, galwayfilmfleadh.com), the annual movie-fest will celebrate the city’s recently-awarded UNESCO designation as a City of Film with premieres, concerts and happenings across the six days. It opens with My Name is Emily by award-winning director Simon Fitzmaurice, starring Evanna Lynch (Harry Potter) and Michael Smiley (The Lobster, Kill List); the Irish-made, Oscar-nominated Song of the Sea will also get its first official home screening at the festival. And if celebrity spotting is your thing, you are bound to find a few sampling the local buzz down Shop Street or beyond, with open-air concerts of movie scores an extra highlight. With hardly time to catch its breath, the city rolls straight into the much-loved Galway International Arts Festival (July 13-26, giaf.ie), which will showcase some exhilarating art works,
including Skywhale, a 30-metre by 21-metre, air-borne, mythical creature, created by Australian artist Patricia Piccinini, which will hover over the city for the duration of the festival. New works by renowned playwrights Enda Walsh and Frank McGuinness get their first viewing while the festival’s Big Top plays host to US art/indie rocker St Vincent, as well as Sinead O’Connor, Damien Rice and Kodaline, to name a few. Street performances from renowned avant-garde theatre groups such as Trans Express are also not to be missed. There’s an embarrassment of stars in al fresco settings in Dublin too, including Paloma Faith (July 2) at Dublin’s Iveagh Gardens, while Chic featuring Nile Rodgers will be disco dancing, also at the Iveagh Gardens (July 9) and Live at the Marquee Cork (July 10). Damien Rice is doing the Iveagh Gardens (July 12) and Live at the Marquee Cork (July 13). One of the exhibitions of the summer has to be by Canadian photographer Stan Douglas at the Irish Museum of Modern Art
July is jam-packed with must-see art and music events around the country. Jessie Collins breaks down the essential list.
Financial Times’ fashion editor Jo Ellison is giving a talk at GIAF about her new coffee table book Vogue The Gown, top. Above, good times are afoot with Nile Rodgers.
3 More Artsy Offerings …
Manchester International Festival, July 2-19 This year’s city-centre shindig is in fine fettle: Björk live; a new Alice in Wonderland-inspired stage musical by Damon Albarn, left; FKA twigs; an art/music project with Gerhard Richter and Arvo Pärt, and Maxine Peake in Caryl Churchill’s The Skriker. See where to sleep and eat on page 126. mif.co.uk
PhotoIreland Festival, Dublin, July 1-31 Emerging talent from South Korea, portraits of German and Austrian children by Christiane Peschek, leading Australian photographers, including Melbourne-based artist Katrin Koenning … the sixth outing of this annual photo fest is excitingly cosmopolitan. photoireland.org
(until September 20, imma.ie). Focusing on Douglas’s recent photography, including the critically acclaimed series, Malabar People, Mid Century Studio and Disco Angola, it shows the artist at the height of his powers, intertwining music, film, theatre, photography and digital formats, to create complex and compelling pieces that are both visually arresting as well as socially provocative.
Capital Fringe, Washington DC, July 9 to August 2 You’ve never seen dancing until you’ve seen high-rise construction cranes doing a pas de deux at dusk. That’s one of the many inventive and intriguing offerings at the tenth anniversary of America’s second largest fringe festival, where theatre, music, art and comedy await. capitalfringe.org
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3 LGBT Gems …
The Outing, Lisdoonvarna, Co Clare, October 2-4 Now in its third year, the fastgrowing offshoot of the historical matchmaking festival is back and bigger than ever, left. With pop-up clubs, drag performances, comedy, live music and interactive events, it’s a guaranteed craic-filled weekend away on Ireland’s stunning west coast. theouting.ie
Pink Lake Festival, Austria, September 3–6 Conchita Wurst has become the globally recognised face of LGBT Austria, which also hosts this annual event at Lake Wörthersee every September. This rural alternative to the popular Fire Island in New York, Pink Lake is perfect for travellers who want to head a little off the beaten track. pinklake.at
evening and late-night pubs, clubs and socialising spaces – among them Pantibar, drag queen and equality ambassador Panti Bliss’s eponymous watering hole on Capel Street (pantibar.com). Alternative LGBTfriendly nightclubs include The Workman’s Club (theworkmansclub. com) on Wellington Quay and Mother on Copper Alley, catering to the casual-trendy set with indie pop, electro and 1980s tunes every Saturday night until late. Elsewhere, seasoned cinemagoers will find a constant stream of independent and arthouse films and documentaries at Smithfield’s Lighthouse Cinema (lighthousecinema. ie) – also the location for the GAZE Film Festival (August 1-3; gaze.ie), Ireland’s annual celebration of international LGBT filmmaking. TI
People power – Ireland’s Marriage Equality bill will have an inevitable impact on LGBT tourism. Below, Daithi Kelleher aka The Cupcake Bloke.
catch-ups over a flat white. Notable mentions include recently-opened Love Supreme (lovesupreme.ie) in Stoneybatter, 3FE (3fe.com), on Lower Grand Canal Street, with its internationally-acclaimed, award-winning coffee, and Krüst (krustbakery.com) on Aungier Street, with must-try rainbow cronuts. With quirky, mismatched and colourful interiors once described as looking like “a drag queen’s handbag that has exploded”, Foam Café (foamcafe.ie) on Strand Street Great is a must-visit. Keen caffeine drinkers can sip until late at night at Accents (accentslounge. wordpress.com) – a unique, latenight, alcohol-free spot near St Stephen’s Green. There, longtime LGBT supporters, Anna-Louise Young and team also host weekly comedy, music and poetry nights, providing a platform for local and international talent while the audience can sip on a cup of the award-winning, locallyfavoured hot chocolate. With the underground history of the LGBT movement, many of the beacons of the community still remain
he world’s eyes were firmly set on Ireland in late May as a small island on the outskirts of Europe became the first country on the planet to introduce same-sex marriage by popular vote. With this groundbreaking referendum on equality, Ireland is now firmly on the radar as a travel destination for both LGBT people and their allies. Dublin, in particular, is ripe for exploring with these alternative tips. Beaming with positivity and picture-perfect bakes, The Cupcake Bloke’s (thecupcakebloke. com) stall on Coppinger Row is an irresistible spot for a chat with a local over a freshly-baked treat. Trading Thursday to Saturday weekly, the stall is located within the Creative Quarter in the centre of the city – an area around South William Street and Drury Street, which is filled with colourful, quirky and forwardthinking boutiques, pubs, cafés and restaurants. Just try to pass by without resisting one of the red velvet cupcakes ... Dublin’s gourmet coffee trend has seen more and more casual cafés offering a place for all-day
CAROLINA DE PASQUALE
A few months on from Ireland’s equality referendum, GastroGays bloggers Patrick and Russell offer an alternative guide to LGBT Dublin.
Follow Gastrogays @gastrogays
Toronto There’s never been a better time to visit the multiculural location of World Pride in 2014, what with the muchneeded Union Pearson Express train service delivering passengers between the airport and the city centre in 25 minutes. Toronto’s LGBT scene largely revolves around the Church and Wellesley area. toronto.ca
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From city-centre busking to becoming a legendary live band, The Frames learnt to follow their hearts. Celebrating their 25th anniversary, they relive the highs and lows with Tony Clayton-Lea. Photographs by Kathrin Baumbach.
ne of my fondest periods of being in The Frames,” recalls Glen Hansard, his beard sporting various shades of grey, his thoughts focused, “was when we had just made For the Birds in 2001. We had recorded it in Kerry and in Chicago, and we had gone out and done a bunch of gigs, very much in the knowledge that we’d be playing the songs quietly. That album was, I felt, one where we finally had the confidence to make a calm record, and it was at that point where I felt most confident in the band. Anyway, during the album launch tour, after a gig in Waterford, one guy made his way back to our dressing room. He had the CD of For the Birds in his hands, and he smashed it onto the ground and expressed in no uncertain terms how much he disliked it. That was an intense moment for us, but we loved the passion that so obviously came from him. Better than indifference, that’s for sure. He genuinely cared.” Glen’s description of that event is, more or less, a suitably fitting encapsulation of
what The Frames mean to people – there is no sitting on the fence when it comes to this band. Unlike so much of what passes for cookie-cutter rock music these days, The Frames were founded and formed in a period (pre-Internet) when music really mattered to people. And if there was a standard bearer of a frontman and singer who put his heart on the line (regardless of commentary, positive and negative, that came his way), then Glen was that person. Twenty-five years after the band formed, Glen, co-founder Colm Mac Con Iomaire and Joe Doyle (not a founding member but a musical cohort and friend for the past 20 years, which makes him more than honorary) are mulling over the memories. We are seated in a Dublin music venue that, if the walls could talk, you’d never be able to shut them up. Whelan’s may not be where it all began for The Frames (that’d be Grafton Street – busker central in the early-mid 1990s – and the creative hub of the Ormond Multimedia Centre, now the Morrison Hotel, where Glen and friends relentlessly rehearsed their way to proficiency), but
it’s definitely where they forged their reputation as a live band. “You don’t think in terms of longevity when you’re young,” reasons Colm. “It’s more from one month to the next, isn’t it? When you’re in a band it’s gig to gig and album to album, and then it’s into touring cycles.” He gives a wry smile. “It all catches up with you and suddenly 25 years have gone. It’s very strange but not unpleasantly so. In some ways it feels like every second of that 25-year period and, in other ways, it has flown by. There are vague years and crystal clear years. Outstanding years, too.” The “crystal clear years”, he says, arrived “after moving from certain record labels. Making records without industry interference is a huge relief, almost as if you’ve just been released from prison. Recording albums with certain producers has also been great, so there were periods across the years where we’d go from being apprentices to hitting our own groove, and then having faith in our own abilities.” “And being more proactive, and actually being behind the reins,” adds Joe,
“rather than recording an album and expecting the record label to do everything for you.” The vague years, explains Colm, were those when the band were finding their collective feet and innately trusting people. Glen reveals that The Frames’ experiences with the established music industry in the 1990s (strings being pulled by record labels, promises and claims that weren’t being followed through, meeting “interesting” people and realising they weren’t up to much) prompted them to devise a DIY/cottage industry work ethic. Such a show of independence was years ahead of its time. Record contracts and management deals slowed everything down, claims Glen, and created a barrier between the two things that made total sense to the band – their music and their audience. Outside U2’s mid-1980s to mid-1990s heyday, has any Irish rock band enjoyed such an indelible and intricately linked relationship with their fan base? It’s unlikely. “The audience was always the through line for The Frames,” Glen confirms. “Why is it the way it is? We work hard and when we play a gig we play a long one. Some would argue that we play too long
It’s the music that makes everything worthwhile. That has kept us together over the years, above and beyond our friendship sometimes, but that’s also part of the natural history of where things have gone for us.” “We have a unique relationship with our audience,” agrees Colm, “in that we realise they’re integral to the sort of performances we deliver. Everyone participates – and that goes back to us as buskers making music on the street. From moment to moment, street musicians have very strong antennae and Glen is brilliant at reading an audience; he has a sense of being able to keep everyone with you and to take off on tangents, or to stop and turn at any point.” “Or as Colm has said very well,” interjects Glen, “sometimes I’ll get the band through the battle and sometimes I’ll get them all shot!” While gigs can turn this way or that on the flick of a coin, they are essentially about empathy. Glen is something of a master at this – he is sometimes messianic, sometimes messy, but he is always able to
Above, from left, Colm Mac Con Iomaire, Glen Hansard and Joe Doyle.
control a room. “It’s looking into a room full of people and sensing that it needs something, some song – something to kick off the night. That definitely comes from busking and being able to read the mood. But it also comes from the family dynamic – like when you walk into the sitting room or the kitchen and you look at the faces and decide what to do. Do I stay or walk out?!” Sometimes it goes pear-shaped, doesn’t it? Cue three shy grins. “I have to put my hand up here about one gig,” Glen announces. “I’m still proud that I did it but it was embarrassing. We opened the headline slot at the Irish music festival, Witness, which was the forerunner to Oxegen. We were fairly high up on the bill – it was a time slot we had coveted for years – and we started the show with a super gloomy song called ‘A Caution for the Birds’, which would eventually find its way onto an album of ours, Burn the Maps.”
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As The Frames performed the morose song they could see thousands of people drifting away for a more positive and ce. festive experience. It was, claims Colm, “a rare misstep on a en grand scale”. Glen continues: “That was us trying to use the head as opposed to the heart, but it didn’t work because whenever we use the heart pretty much everything goes great.” Unusually for a band with such a lengthy history, there is a keen level of genuine friendship among the members. While you don’t need a map to know that Glen is the band’s benign dictator – and there’s a definite if diplomatic sense that his defection, of sorts, to projects outside The Frames, didn’t initially go down too well – there is nonetheless an unforced, obvious camaraderie. “It’s a delicate thing,” admits Glen of the intra-band relationship
Four piece sweet? The Frames’ lineup has chopped and changed over the years.
(Col and (Colm Joe nod in agre agreement), “bec “because The Fram has Frames alwa been all always for one and one for all. It got li a little murky ar around Once, to be honest; th movie was that so something I di with my did wh was the friend, John Carney, who first bass player with the band. In a weird way it was a Frames side project – and then some of the songs that appeared in the movie were on The Frames’ album, The Cost. Where those songs started and ended – songs that began in sound checks, whoever played a beat, and what that means in terms of who contributed what to which songs – is quite vague. I’m just delighted we’ve all managed to stay friends and to talk sense and that when something like marking the 25th anniversary of The Frames comes up that we’re all up for it.” Being in a band, declares Glen, is like being a member of the
emergency services – you’re on call 24/7. Colm, meanwhile, likens it to an evangelical calling. “In essence,” he observes, “it’s the music that makes everything worthwhile. And it’s the music that has kept us together over the years, above and beyond our friendship.” “Being away from it for ten years has been good for the band,” affirms Glen. “We’ve continued to play as a unit but without the pressure. A lot of my solo work came out of sound checks with the same band, so the creative centre of The Frames hasn’t stopped working; it has just been operating under a different title.” And what of the journey, so to speak, if not the legacy, of The Frames? Glen looks at Colm, who looks at Joe, who in turn looks to Glen for a pithy, truthful summation. “It’s all about,” Glen concludes, “following your heart.” The Frames 25th anniversary concerts are on July 4-5 at the Iveagh Gardens, Dublin, and July 11, Live at the Marquee, Cork. The Frames “Best of” album, Longitude, is out now.
After The Frames - What Happened Next? GLEN HANSARD His first studio album without The Frames was 2006’s The Swell Season, a collaboration with Czech singer/ musician Markéta Irglová. Running parallel was Glen’s co-starring role, also with Markéta, in the low-budget movie Once. Another album by The Swell Season (Strict Joy, 2009) and a solo record (Rhythm and Repose, astened Glen’s 2012) copper-fastened increasing international success. All paled in comparison, however, with the huge commercial
achievements of Once, The Musical, which made its Broadway debut in 2012 and shows no signs of slowing down. Ditto Glen who, following Irish summer shows with The Frames, embarks on a European solo tour starting on September 29 at La Cigale, Paris. COLM MAC CON IOMAIRE Alongside Glen, Colm has been a mainst of The Frames from mainstay be the beginning and has also been a member of The Swell Seaso from its inception. Season Kno Knowing how to play your par in a collaborative part se setting – and exactly wher to stand on stage where whe you have someone when
as forceful as Glen under the primary spotlights – is something that Colm is very much aware of, an intuitive stance borne out of his background in traditional Irish music. He has also released two fine solo albums – The Hare’s Corner (2008) and this year’s Agus Anois An Aimsir (And Now the Weather) – that have each highlighted his masterful and cinematic way with music that’s at once expressive and nuanced. JOHN CARNEY The Frames’ bass player from 1991 to 1993 – has developed an enviable reputation as an auteur filmmaker of lowbudget movies with big hearts.
Moderate successes – November Afternoon (1996), On the Edge (2001), and RTÉ TV series, Bachelors Walk – paved the way for Once, which was made for approximately €160,000 and went on to gross millions. While Carney’s Zonad (2009), divided critics, his movie Begin Again (2013), was a charmer. John’s next film is Sing Street, a Dublin-based, 1980s-set, loosely autobiographical tale of a teenager forming a rock band – with original soundtrack by U2’s Bono and The Edge.
SWEET SUCCESS Ireland’s producers of sweet treats are well and truly coming into their own. Aoife Carrigy catches up with the food entrepreneurs tapping into the green isle’s rich bounty. Photographs by Anthony Woods.
sk a first-time visitor to Ireland what they imagine when they think of Irish food and you tend to get a few predictable answers. Irish stew, the clue being in the name as much as in the ubiquity of Irish lamb (or more traditionally mutton), carrots and spuds. Potatoes themselves, largely due to their enormous and ignominious role in our nation’s history. Corned beef if you’re talking to a North American, in whose direction we used to ship great quantities of beef, carefully preserved for the long journey. Maybe even blood pudding and pig trotters (crubeen) – or tripe and drisheen, if the English Market in Cork is on their itinerary. Or butter, perhaps having read about the slabs preserved in the Irish bog for millennia, or how we have for many centuries exported this solid gold encapsulation of the glorious, rain-sodden, green-pastured countryside our grass-fed dairy cattle graze upon. Ask them again, once they’ve had a chance to experience the richness of the contemporary Irish food scene, and you might get some fresh answers. The cheese-makers who in recent decades have helped us look afresh at the bounty of this little green Ireland. The butchers, the bakers, the charcuterie makers. The brewers of craft beers and fermenters of sourdough. The fruit jam preservers and the collectors of eggs. But what about confectioners and artisan biscuit bakers? Chocolatiers and bean-to-bar chocolate makers? Bakers of exquisite cakes whose flavour combinations would do Willy Wonka proud? Exporters of irresistible indulgences fit for the most dietarily challenged? Could this be Irish food today?
Actually, our sweet-tooth is nothing new, if The Dubliners’ 1967 rendition of “The Galway Races” is anything to go by. And it’s there you see confectioners with sugar sticks and dainties, The lozenges and oranges, the lemonade and raisins; The gingerbread and spices to accommodate the ladies, And a big crubeen for thruppence to be suckin’ while you’re able. With me whack fol the do fol the diddlely idle ay! There’s little else that captures authentic Irish life like a visit to the Galway Races. And while pigs’ trotters have given sustenance to the pipers and the fiddlers and the nimble-footed dancers, it’s the sweet treats that truly took pride of place. It seems that this wasn’t just a Galway thing either. In his study of Food as ‘Motif ’ in the Irish Song Tradition, food historian Máirtín Mac Con Iomaire of Dublin Institute of Technology cites “a number of food trades mentioned in ‘The Humours of Donnybrook Fair’ including confectioners, cooks, fruit hawkers, butchers, brewers and bakers”. Fans of trad music may spot that he is referring to the 18th-century broadside ballad recorded by Tommy Makem of the Clancy Brothers fame, describing the annual fair that took place just outside Dublin city centre from the 13th to the 19th century. Today’s confectioners, chocolatiers and artisan bakers may seem as contemporary as you can get, but these savvy entrepreneurs can well and truly claim their place in a rich Irish food heritage. We caught up with a few of them for a closer look at this delicious chapter in the Irish food story.
John and Kasha Connolly
Hazel Mountain Chocolate
A barren-looking karst landscape from which exquisite orchids burst annually, the Burren in Co Clare is full of surprises. But a boutique bean-to-bar chocolate “factory” in a farmhouse shed? Offering guided tours through all the stages of chocolate-making, from sorting and light-roasting the raw cacao beans to cracking, winnowing and stone-milling to tempering and crafting into fresh truffles and single origin bars? It makes complete sense to John Connolly, pictured right, whose family have been farming here for 300 years. “We’re used to creating our own opportunities,” he says. And to his Polish wife Kasha, middle, a trained chocolatier and third-generation baker, as well as to head roaster (and “resident hipster”), Daragh Conboy, far left, it makes sense to have full control over her creations. By definition, a “chocolatier” simply tempers pre-made chocolate. At Hazel Mountain Chocolate, they’re buying cacao beans directly from farmers in Madagascar, Costa Rica and Venezuela. The Connollys value the “synergy of that farm-to-farm trade” and relish their traditional local skills. Their aim is “to stay true to the bean itself” and, unlike most industrial versions, their dark chocolate contains no vanilla. Nor do they add emulsifiers such as soya lecithin and, if they do add milk, it’s local – as are added ingredients such as wild juniper, elderberries and nettles. They even produce a St Tola goat’s cheese truffle, which is proving surprisingly popular, if divisive, and are experimenting with potato truffles. But to be honest, we’d be surprised if they weren’t.
Nicole Dunphy Pandora Bell
As lollipop ladies go, Pandora Bell is one glamorous girl. Her adventures have taken her to the Middle East and China, and she has graced the pages of Italian Grazia and British Vogue. Dolce & Gabbana decorated their boutiques with her candy canes, and Vivienne Westwood chose her hand-rolled curlicued lollipops to launch a new fragrance. That Pandora herself is a product of Limerick-based Nicole Dunphy’s imagination doesn’t make her achievements any less impressive. Outstanding too are Pandora’s tangy fruit-pulp jellies, her fleurde-sel salted butter caramels and her gloriously flavoured handmade sweets (blackberrry and champagne anyone?). Dunphy’s imagination has always been lively. A graduate of english and history of art, she worked in her father’s antique business as well as in film and radio before choosing to forge her own path. Her dream was to have a business that allowed her “to be motivated, creative and energised”. The vehicle for that dream? “To create a candy confectionery brand to equal the great chocolate houses of the world.” She trained at the prestigious Valrhona École du Grand Chocolat in France and the Italian Culinary Institute, and applied what she had learnt back home. It didn’t take long for the right people to notice. The Bridgestone Guide named her Newcomer of the Year, describing her nougat and salted caramels as “perfection”. Image magazine included her in the 100 Most Inspiring Women in 2010. At the time, that was “the coolest thing ever”. But it doesn’t beat being “so happy today to be 40, with a lovely daughter, living in a great city and working with a team of really strong women”. Sounds like a dream come true.
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Siobhan and Paul Lawless
The Foods of Athenry
Despite selling their “free-from” cookies, biscuits, crackers and breakfast cereals to the likes of London’s Harrods and Dublin’s Fallon & Byrne, Siobhan Lawless describes herself and husband Paul as “accidental” entrepreneurs. “We never set out to run our own business, nor to manufacture food.” But it’s only when you hear the full story – involving childhood illness and a devastating fire – that you realise the resonance of that weighty adjective. Siobhan was approached in the late 1990s by a prestigious local restaurant to bake their brown bread. With five young children and a husband kept busy on the family farm in Co Galway, her days hardly needed filling. But, she says, “my motto is ‘how hard can it be?’” Overnight, she found herself with a baking business. By 2004 Siobhan was turning away potential customers. Meanwhile the farm was struggling at an increasingly difficult time for Irish agriculture. When their middle child became ill, something had to give. They sold the cows and moved the bakery into the milking parlour; business thrived and the food awards streamed in. “By 2009, we realised we were good at this.” When extended family members were diagnosed as coeliac, they glimpsed just how dismal the gluten-free offerings were on supermarket shelves. They built a second bakery dedicated to filling this gap in the market. Then “a small fire that didn’t go out” destroyed both bakeries, including machinery not yet unpacked or paid for. But, being the family they are, they rose from the ashes and relaunched in 2012. Business is thriving again, with orders coming in from Dubai and New York. “When life gives you lemons …”
Owen and Ken Madden, and Beth-Ann Smith Lismore Food Company
Success came fast for the Lismore Food Company, whose artisan biscuits have had food writers getting flahulach with the superlatives. “We started selling in one shop last October,” says Ken Madden, left, one of the three business partners, along with his brother Owen, far right, and Ballymaloe-trained Beth-Ann Smith, middle. “By Christmas, we were in 50 stores across Ireland.” Ken and Beth-Ann – partners in life as well as business – bonded over a mutual obsession with food, stemming from similar family backgrounds. The pub and bakery established in Lismore main street by the brothers’ 19thcentury ancestors now operates as The Summerhouse, a lifestyle store and café, and HQ for the handmade biscuit range, which includes an All Butter Irish Shortbread made to a centuries-old family recipe. BethAnn’s family ran Smith’s Stores, a landmark delicatessen and bakery in Cork’s Patrick Street. She recalls returning from home to St Columba’s boarding school, laden with chorizo and charcuterie – “very exotic at the time.” Lismore Food Company’s exquisite packaging is full of nods to these personal histories. Its gold disc reflects the signature motif of Irish artist Patrick Scott, coincidently another of St Columba’s alumni with Cork roots. The tubes’ distinctive orange colour was inspired by almonds candied by Ken one evening. Even the barcode is a beauty, representing Lismore’s castle-and-cathedral skyline. Less than a year in business, the trio are already exporting and have plans for a savoury range. Biscuit lovers wait with bated breath.
For most of her life, Kate was more of a reader than a baker. Then five years ago, she swapped her doctorate in Shakespeare for a start-up baking business. “They are very different worlds but I try to apply that academic rigour to the creative process of recipe development, which I love.” It makes sense that Packwood’s favourite food writer is Niki Segnit, whose The Flavour Thesaurus eschews recipes for suggested flavour combinations, some of them pretty wild. After all, exploring wildly imaginative flavour combinations is what the self-taught Packwood has created a name for. “Lots of chefs are working on flavour in savoury food but rarely in cake,” she says. “Cake brings a little bit of luxury into the everyday. It should be something elevating and amazing.” We’re talking cherry blossom, black sesame and almond. Pear, vanilla and smoke. Dark chocolate, tonka bean and fig. Or (Kate’s favourite) toasted nuts, Teeling whiskey and white chocolate that has been slow-roasted for five hours for a smoother, nuttier flavour profile. “I read about the process and hadn’t seen anyone else doing it here,” she says. The Teeling whiskey comes in pipettes, a lab tool recently adopted by modernist chefs, to be injected into the heart of the cake. “It really captures people’s imagination: they love the interactive element.” Interaction is key to Packwood’s business approach – whether chatting to customers at Dublin’s Temple Bar food market, incorporating a first date story into a wedding cake, or running pop-up restaurants at the Lilliput Trading Company with “mentor and close friend” Seaneen O’Sullivan. It seems that academia’s loss is the food world’s gain.
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Barry and Bernard Broderick
It’s a long way to Saudi Arabia and Russia from the Broderick’s basement kitchen in Dublin. When Ina Broderick decided to set up a modest home-baking business in 1983, she didn’t suspect how far her journey would lead. And when her son Barry, right, joined Ina’s Kitchen Desserts ten years later, he wasn’t sure if it could sustain a living for himself, let alone his brother Bernard, left, who followed him into the business. Today, the pair employ close to 100 people and export cake bars to 26 countries. “We are real proud of that,” says Bernard. “It’s been tough enough to get there.” Building an export market is expensive, and takes time. “It could be a year before you get the sales.” But while there have been sacrifices along the way, the brothers were determined that there would also be more than a little bit of fun. When the business was relaunched in 2009 as Broderick’s, they drafted in their alter-egos the Cake Crusaders, to help communicate the family’s story on the labels of cake bars such as their Nutty Crunchy Caramel Munchie slice, which features caramel handmade with real Irish butter. “We wanted to sell something real and we wanted to have a bit of craic as well.” Their strong brand identity helped open doors but it has been the quality of their ingredients that clinched sales. “People tell us they can’t understand how it tastes so good, especially in places where they mightn’t be used to quality ingredients.” Bernard believes that Irish food producers are blessed. “We’ve got the support of Bord Bia, great produce to work with and great access to the European market. We’re very lucky.”
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Northern Exposure It’s off-radar, under-visited and home to some of the Wild Atlantic Way’s most dramatic twists and turns. Pól Ó Conghaile drives the Donegal coast. Photographs by Al Higgins.
Coast is clear â€“ Silver Strand, near Malinbeg, is the perfect place to blow away the cobwebs.
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’m standing at the edge of the earth. Actually, it’s further than that. I’m standing on a gnarly old outcrop that has long since broken away from the edge of the earth. It’s a sheer, brawny knuckle of a sea stack punching out of the Atlantic Ocean at the tip of Donegal’s Slieve League Peninsula. To get here, I’ve driven across Ireland, poked the car down pencilthin bohareens, hiked 500 metres from a storm beach and paddled across a mutinous little passage whipped with waves. Oh yeah, and then I got strapped into a harness and helmet and climbed the damn thing. “What could possibly go wrong?” laughed Iain Miller. That was half an hour ago, when we paused on the last shard of mainland to inflate the souvenirsized dinghy that would take us across Black Channel (not a very reassuring name, that) to the base of Berg Stack. Donegal boasts more than 100 sea stacks – stonking great
Top, our writer Pól Ó Conghaile climbing a sea stack near Glencolumbkille under the expert tutelage of Iain Miller. Above, Pól happily back on dry land.
lumps of rock sprouting offshore – and Miller, who leads hill-walking, mountain training and rock-climbing activities with Unique Ascent (uniqueascent.ie), has climbed almost every one. Offshore, two fishermen in yellow oilskins bob about on a boat. Above us, a wary pair of gulls guard their nest. More people have set foot on the moon than on some of these formations, Miller tells me. There is zero signal on my phone. He’s in his element. Fixing a rope between the mainland and stack, he ferries us across, kits me up in safety gear and dances up the 20-metre rockface in jig time. After anchoring the ropes up top, he signals for me to follow. I dig deep, ignore my thumping heart and kick my boot into the first toehold. The initial metres are surprisingly easy. Then the vertigo kicks in. By halfway, I’m way out of my comfort
zone, struggling to tackle the rock one grip at a time. I laugh at none of Iain’s jokes. When I finally flop over the top, my hands are raw, I’m breathing hard and I splutter a big, fat F-word. The view is awesome – heaving waves, great, chunky cliffs and undulating hills, scarred with stone walls. The gulls have taken off, leaving three camouflage-coloured eggs like precious stones in their nest. There’s an elemental feeling of freedom. My office desk seems very, very far away. “Whoop!” Iain shouts. “We got away with it, man!” I’m in Donegal on a mission. I’m driving the most off-radar (and arguably, under-appreciated) stretch of the Wild Atlantic Way. Skipping obvious attractions such as Bundoran and Rossnowlagh, I started out in Donegal Town, following the coastline as closely as possible right up to the Inishowen
More people have set foot on the moon than on some of these formations
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When in Donegal …
Drink Kinnegar As Ireland’s craft beer scene explodes, it’s getting harder and harder to separate the wheat from the chaff. Kinnegar is a small brewery keeping things simple (and tasty), however. Named after a beach near Rathmullan, its farmhouse beers include a snappy IPA (Scraggy Bay) and citrus-spicy Rye Ale (Rustbucket). When in Donegal, do as the locals do … and drink it. (kinnegarbrewing.ie)
Surf the Peak The Peak in Bundoran is one of Ireland’s top waves, breaking on a rocky reef to kick up a lovely, steep shape suiting all styles of surfing. It’s most definitely not for beginners, however. If you don’t surf, catch it from the shore, before taking the Rougey coastal walk. Locals say you can wish for anything at the wishing chair here ... as long as it’s not love or money. (discoverbundoran.com)
Have an island adventure Donegal doesn’t stop at its coast. The offshore islands here offer some of the wildest scenery on the Wild Atlantic Way. Try Tory Island, with its very own king (no, really), or Arranmore – reached via a 60-foot ferry through the narrow channels between Rutland and Inis Coon. It takes just 15 minutes to reach a wild Atlantic outpost. (087 317 1810; arranmorefastferry.com)
Eat at … BIG HOUSE The cherry on the Fanad Peninsula’s cake, Rathmullan House is a Blue Book country house and restaurant offering creature comforts that perfectly offset the wild, Lough Swilly landscape. Local producers (think Pat Patton’s lamb, or Greencastle-landed fish) feature large on the bar and restaurant menus, and there are pizzas in the Tap Room, too. (Rathmullan, 074 915 8188; rathmullanhouse.com) SIMPLY SMART Set in a former Royal Irish Constabulary base in Mountcharles, the Village Tavern is a simple, smart and friendly reboot of an old building, doing tasty food that lets local ingredients sing. Try the seafood tasting plate, including a mini prawn cocktail, scallop in chilli oil and crab claw with pesto (among other treats) from €8.95. It does a neat line in craft beers, too. (Mountcharles, 074 973 5622; villagetavern.ie)
This picture, scenic Silver Strand, where you can often stroll without seeing another soul. Above right, Donal Doherty of Harry’s Bar & Restaurant.
LEGENDARY Harry’s Bar & Restaurant is an Inishowen legend. Donal Doherty & Co refuse to stand still, however, and their energy, enthusiasm and fierce commitment to local produce have helped what is, in effect, a roadside eatery in Bridgend to punch way above its weight. There’s a new beach shack on Portstewart Strand, too. (Bridgend, Inishowen, 074 936 8544) JULY 2015
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and Fanad peninsulas. It’s a journey of hundreds of kilometres, thousands of things to do, and a breath-taking mix of cliffs, beaches, stacks and surprises along the way. Even before I’d met Iain Miller, in the Gaeltacht village of Glencolmcille, my phone signal had been wavering. Three bars. Two bars. None. That’s how remote the Slieve League peninsula gets. Following the N56 and R263 through the trawling port of Killybegs, dipping down to the Blue Flag beach at Fintra and continuing towards Malin Beg, I could no longer access emails, tweets, texts or other updates. Maybe that was Donegal sending a message (“Live in the now, man!”), but the road finally ran out above the scallopshaped strand cut into the cliffs. Apart from the sheep, I had the place to myself. The Slieve League cliffs, pummelling 300 metres into the ocean in a sweep of rusty red and charcoal grey, had been steeped in a duvet of dirge. A grey pall hung over the lighthouse at St John’s Point. But here, miraculously, a window of blue moved in, allowing shafts of sunlight to spill down on Silver Strand. At Harvey’s Point Hotel that night, owner Deirdre McGlone told me that locals can never agree on the number of steps 60 |
Above, Julie Scott and Jonny Watson of The Rusty Oven pizzeria, hidden away in Dunfanaghy. Below, fishermen head to shore at Port Bay.
leading down to the cove. But knitwear bags from Michelle they can agree on how special it is. McCarroll (Michi), splashes of When I post a photo on Facebook, ceramic from Brian McGee, a man identifies it as the spot where chunky Rathlin Knitwear and even his mother’s ashes were scattered. Japanese papercraft from It’s that kind of place. Naomi Fleury. The following morning, I leave “Most of them do it full-time,” the placid shores of Lough Eske, says Anna Kee, a ceramicist and driving across southwest Donegal teacher who is tending the store to Ardara, a village well-known when I visit. “The likes of me do it for its hand-weaving traditions. for sanity.” It feels like a breezy, optimistic Pushing north, I follow the kind of place, with 19th-century Duquesa Santa Ana Drive, named shop and bar fronts interspersed after a Spanish Armada vessel with design and textile stores. In wrecked off Rosbeg in 1588. one, weaver Eddie Doherty works Commanded by Don Pedro herringbone patterns into blankets, Mares, the survivors made their throws, scarves and hats as he has way ashore, briefly fortified an done since 1956. In another, the area on Kiltooris Lough, and Donegal Designer Makers marched on to Killybegs where (donegaldesignermakers. they embarked on a ship com) – a collection called La Girona, an of the county’s information point leading artisan tells me. That LAND OF design and ship sank off PLENTY craft workers Co Antrim Have you ever dreamed of – exhibit a month owning land in Donegal? Well, you their wares. later. Of an can – buy, or gift, a personal, certified There are estimated plot at the foothills of Muckish colourful 1,300 souls Mountain, Falcarragh, for €20. Available at Dublin Airport and at irishlandowner.ie
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Stay at … ROMANTIC Fresh lobsters in the tank. Fabulous views over Donegal Bay and McSwyne’s Castle. Yup, Castle Murray House Hotel in Dunkineely is a bona fide gem – but don’t just take our word for it. Travel + Leisure magazine once voted it one of the world’s Top 50 Most Romantic Hotels. B&B from €60pp. (St John’s Point, Dunkineely, 074 973 7022; castlemurray.com) POPULAR Topping TripAdvisor’s list of the best hotels in Ireland for three years in a row, Harvey’s Point in Donegal town needs little introduction. Enormous rooms, an awesome location overlooking Lough Eske and a constant drive to improve (check out the new restaurant and open kitchen) combine in a four-star that sets the standard for hospitality in the northwest. “Sunday sleepover” packages bundle B&B and a five-course lunch from €109pp. (Lough Eske, Donegal Town, 074 972 2208; harveyspoint.com) TRADITIONAL A family-run, three-star hotel overlooking Sheephaven Bay, Arnold’s has been a Dunfanaghy mainstay since 1922. The lively bar, cosy fireplaces, on-site stables and warm welcome lift it above the sometimes-timeworn rooms. The fresh mussels are good, too. Two nights’ B&B, one dinner and an hour’s horse-riding from €180pp. (Main Street, Dunfanaghy, 074 913 6208; arnoldshotel.com)
Rock of ages – the cliffs at Slieve League, opposite. Here, Eddie Doherty – one of the last independent hand weavers making Irish tweed – operating his loom in Ardara. Far right, fish pie and a pint of Kinnegar Swingletree Farmhouse Saison in Harry’s Bar. Below, steps down to Fintra Bay.
on board, only nine survived. The Wild Atlantic Way wasn’t named for its gentle nature, I guess. Driving this little loop – and others – the roads grow tight. At times, there’s a laughable 80kmh speed limit as I squeeze between bungalows or pull into grass verges to let oncoming drivers by. For the most part, the Wild Atlantic Way is well-signposted, but its thinnest tendrils lead me astray on several occasions … and I wouldn’t exactly rely on the SatNav either. You could see this as part of the adventure, of course, but with more visitors winding their way along the west coast (I had to marvel at the Porsche Cayenne powering its way through Portnoo), an upgrade of signage and parking, a widening of JULY 2015
certain roads and the provision of toilets on beaches is now necessary. “Donegal was hit by a six-inch wave of tourism last summer,” Iain Miller joked, referring to the touring route’s launch. “We’re struggling to cope!” Continuing north, I detour to the dramatic beach at Magheroarty, dwarfing the small pier from which ferries to Inishbofin and Tory Island depart. I pull in at a viewing point, rain teeming down on the windscreen, and admire a sandy sickle that could be a magazine cover. I drive past Horn Head with its 200-metre rockface, teeming with sea birds. I pass through the bustling holiday town of Dunfanaghy, slipping off the main road to the almost-deserted sands of Marble Hill, where I find Lee Wood of Narosa surf school (narosalife. com), rinsing wetsuits beneath the trees near a new coffee shack. “We keep finding new spots,” he tells me, bright blue eyes shining out from his weather-tanned face. Dunfanaghy recently featured in Missing, a surf movie starring ASP World Champion Mick Fanning, he adds (during July and August, Lee will be doing several surf lessons a day). As we chat, he introduces me to two girls from South Africa and Greece, cradling hot chocolates after their lesson. They are cold. But there is sand in their hair and smiles on their faces. The final stretch of Donegal’s Wild Atlantic Way (or first, if you’re travelling in the opposite direction) nips and tucks around the Fanad and Inishowen peninsulas. Both 64 |
ILLUSTRATION BY STEVE McCARTHY
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have their highlights and wellconcealed gems. Portsalon Beach, overlooking Ballymastocker Bay near Rathmullan, is a stunner. A mile of golden sands, safe swimming, floury dunes – and even a secret surfing spot under the humpy Knockalla Mountain – all reward the long drive north. Inishowen culminates in Malin Head, Ireland’s most northerly point. The windbuffeted barrenness here belies a bountiful nature – beneath the waves are basking sharks, and local photographer Rónán McLaughlin has captured images of snowy owls and even the elusive Northern Lights here.
Give us a wave! Above left, Lee Wood of Narosa Surf School, Dunfanaghy.
Bundoran, COAST TO COAST Over in ades, and marvel join street parties and par s, during at fireworks and vintage car 18-19. Carnival Weekend on July
Local provider Cycle Inishowen (cycleinishowen.com) runs Wild Atlantic Way and other bike tours, and Inish Adventures (inishadventures.com) offers kayaking and other activities from their base on Lough Foyle in Moville. It’s been hundreds of kilometres since my sea stack adventure with Iain Miller. I’ve driven highways and byways, in rain and shine. Donegal doesn’t have the tourism profile of Kerry or Cork, but once you make the journey, watch the bars drop off your phone and hit the groove of its roads, it gets under your skin. The edge of the earth is closer than you think. Follow Pól on @poloconghaile CARTRAWLER CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK CARTRAWLER FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE. FOR THE BEST CAR RENTAL DEALS, VISIT AERLINGUSCARS.COM.
Top construction companies are developing high-profile projects on both sides of the Irish Sea – the best forging relationships with Ireland’s most successful and only nationwide plant and tool hire firm.
hether it’s the Meccano and Lego of childhood, or the bricks and mortar of industry, if you’re in the business of building you know intuitively that solid foundations and quality structures require just one thing. Span for span, mile for mile, block for block – construction success is built on thousands of reliable, unbreakable connections. So it makes sense that Ireland’s most progressive construction companies connect with the tool and plant hire company that bridges the Irish sea – HSS, Laois Hire group, is an established network of 24 hire branches and Super Centres across Ireland who’ve recently launched branches in Ballymena and Galway, with plans to open a further eight branches this year. Building success in good times or in bad is what it’s all about for Michael Killeen, the group’s managing director for Ireland and Scotland. In 1992 he founded Laois Hire with his wife Maureen, and the company merged into the HSS family in 2005 and successfully navigated through the recession to see year on year growth. “We kept our best people, the best systems and we took on the market,”
says Michael on creating Ireland’s only nationwide plant and tool hire company. y. It’s this proactive, progressive attitude that explains why their plant is seen on the most high profile Irish construction sites. From the M50 to the Tralee bypass and the Limerick Tunnel, as well as Dublin Airport’s Terminal 2 and multinational microchip manufacturing facilities, the HSS, Laois Hire brand is a strong, reliable presence. The recent listing of HSS Hire Group plc listed on the London Stock Exchange was, in the words of Michael Killeen, “a major achievement for the company and puts us in a very strong position to invest in the business on an ongoing basis.” Killeen makes at least four flights between Ireland, the UK and Scotland each week, so is very aware of the huge number of Irish contractors and their employees commuting on the same routes. So HSS, Laois Hire group’s natural next step is to offer their experience of success, reliability and high quality to Irish clients doing business in Scotland.
Can you dig it? Michael Killeen, above, is the managing director of Laois Hire and HSS Hire Group Ireland and Scotland.
Conducting business aw away from home doesn’t ha have to entail the trial and error of making ne new connections ab abroad. Clients used to a professional wo workforce, wellmaintained, quality equipment and a co commitment to health and safety fety fr from HSS, Laois Hire group in Ireland can expect the exact same standards from Scotland’s 23 depots. Certainly, having ten depots in Northern Ireland and ten in the south makes smooth, commercial and financial sense for BAM Construction’s plant purchasing manager, Brian Behan. “It’s a huge benefit. Wherever we are they’re within a stone’s throw,” he says, adding that, in a business where safety is paramount, “HSS, Hire Service Group is second to none. “BAM are going further afield and working with our sister companies in the UK, and HSS, Laois Hire will be one of our preferred hire suppliers,” he says, underlining the importance of consistency of supply and service across jurisdictions.
FOOD | CHICAGO
What’s Cooking? The cooking traditions and beloved family recipes of Chicago’s ethnic communities are central to a flourishing food scene. Jody Eddy takes a culinary tour through its neighbourhoods. Photographs by Dan Goldberg.
Fresh as daisies â€“ organic eatery Homestead on the Roof grows its own ingredients in rooftop planter boxes and vertical gardens.
FOOD | CHICAGO
he merciless sun bakes the streets of Chicago’s Far North Side, where African restaurants along the perimeter of Rogers Park jockey for square footage with mom-and-pop joints from Jamaica, Peru and Korea. The servers at the neighbourhood’s Belizean restaurant Redz on Paulina Street (redzbze.com) move slowly through the languid heat, serving golden fried conch fritters that are washed down with icy swigs of thirstquenching ginger beer. Just down the street on Demera Ethiopian Restaurant (demeraethiopian.com), where rich coffee is poured from authentic brass kettles with patinas as warm as the torrid heat. Chicago has long been referred to by culinary insiders residing on either coast of the United States as “flyover country” when discussing the state of its cuisine. What these naysayers fail to realise is that a culinary renaissance is quietly percolating in the hushed, understated way that so many notable things transpire here. The city’s food scene pivots on its distinctive neighbourhoods that were etched out over centuries by waves of ethnic communities who flocked to the city seeking a new life. The one thing they didn’t leave behind were cooking traditions that have shaped iconic Chicago neighbourhoods such as Wicker Park, Bucktown and Logan Square into unique gastronomic microcosms reflecting the rich history of a city that has long welcomed foreigners and their beloved family recipes. Walking east brings you to West Ridge, where the traditionally Jewish neighbourhood is enlivened by the sari and lassi shops of Little India that buzz in air perfumed by chillies along Devon Street. The ethnic grocery stores and meat and vegetable markets vie for space with the Indian snack shop Uru-Swati (uruswatichicago.com), where Bollywood classics run on a 68 |
Wake up and smell the ... Gaslight? A morning coffee sets the mood,
loop on plasma screens, and menu chalkboards lining electric blue walls offer tantalising snacks, such as bhel puri, puffed rice with cucumbers, onions, tomatoes, chillies and green chutney – perfect for days that are as steamy as Indian summers. Meander south to The Chopping Block (thechoppingblock.com) in Lincoln Square to find respite from the heat at one of the city’s best recreational cooking schools, where wooden shelves are packed with cookbooks and hands-on classes are taught at long, communal tables,
ideal for meeting new friends while mastering a new kitchen skill. Stop by Baker Miller (bakermillerchicago.com) before leaving the neighbourhood, a stone-mill bakery and restaurant with wooden chairs painted in vivid Crayola hues, serving soonto-be addictions such as salted caramel chocolate cookies and pecan oat jammers. These treats will most likely quell the sweet tooth today but, for tomorrow’s craving, begin at Pleasant House Bakery (pleasanthousebakery.com) in the
The city’s food scene pivots on its distinctive neighbourhoods that were etched out over centuries
FOOD | CHICAGO
Bridgeport neighbourhood where Scotch eggs are washed down with hibiscus tea soda. Back on track in Lincoln Square, wander over to North Lake Shore Drive to feel the invigorating breeze blowing in from Lake Michigan. Stroll down to the Uptown neighborhood that beckons with its jumble of theatres and music clubs such as the iconic Music Box Theatre (musicboxtheatre.com), the city’s best venue for independent and foreign films and just a hop-skip from Wrigley Field (chicago.cubs. mlb.com). Find sustenance at Ba Le Bahn’wich (balesandwich.com), a family-owned Vietnamese sandwich shop with communal tables at which to munch lemongrass pork banh mi slicked with lemon-fish sauce. Independently owned restaurants are a driving force in Chicago’s justified claim as one of America’s best food cities and Chandra Ram, executive editor of the Chicago-based Plate Magazine, an industry publication for chefs,
The world’s biggest food festival, Taste of Chicago, returns on July 8-12, with a feast that’s as jaw-dropping in scale as it is mouth-watering, boasting everything from pop-up restaurants to concerts to food trucks. cityofchicago.org
says: “One of its recent standouts is Parachute, a Korean restaurant with a twist.” The twist at this contemporary restaurant in Avondale (parachuterestaurant.com), west of Uptown, being dishes such as duck breast, wheat berries, fava beans, ramps and feta, or fried tapioca, pecorino and furikake, served in an industrial space brightened with cobalt-blue fabric banquettes and Korean curios. Further south is Green City Market (greencitymarket.org) on North Clark Street in Lincoln Park, an outdoor and indoor market with dozens of stalls beckoning with welcome shade and poplar baskets overflowing with Midwestern produce. Pick up a cold cinnamonspiked apple cider before heading to the Lincoln Park Zoo (lpzoo. org), a city gem that’s free and open 365 days a year, just north of the Chicago History Museum (chicagohistory.org).
nd of k will be filled with the sou FEEL THE NOISE Grant Par a diverse ere this July 21 to August 2, wh Lollapalooza music festival y, Hot Chip, the Machine, Paul McCartne + ce ren Flo es lud inc p e-u lin com her John Misty. lollapalooza. Kid Cudi, Sam Smith and Fat
Clockwise from far left, farm-fresh comfort food at Pleasant House Bakery; Paul Kahan’s Publican restaurant; tasty tortillas at Salsa Truck; chef Rick Bayless, whose many Chicago restaurants include Frontera Grill, Xoco and Topolobampo; a spit roast at Green City Market; Nicole J Ruiz enjoying a bite at Salsa Truck; exceedingly tempting libations at Half Acre Beer Company; Wesley Ervin is oven-ready at Pleasant House Bakery; Eden Laurin of Violet Hour fixes a drink; and it’s fromage ahoy at buzzy Eataly.
Stay at … HIP Just a few blocks off the Magnificent Mile, the Acme Hotel goes more than a mile to satisfy guests seeking a hotel adventure rather than just a place to lay their heads for the night. The carefully curated selection of offbeat artwork and bric-a-brac exudes whimsy, while the Berkshire Room in the hotel lobby that boasts old world cocktails tempts patrons to linger long into the Windy City night. In the morning, the hotel’s West Town Bakery’s pastries and coffee from Chicago’s own Passion House Coffee Roasters is the ideal way to nurse a hangover. For the technologicallyobsessed, Acme even offers its guests on-thehouse Google Glass during their stay. Double rooms $175-$430. (15 East Ohio Street, +1 312 894 0800; acmehotelcompany.com) FANCY Luxury boutique hotel The James, on Magnificent Mile, is as sophisticated as it is ethical. Operating with a mandate to be “globally and socially conscious”, it boasts efforts to promote native businesses, local and national artists, and to be environmentally sensitive. The sleek rooms, with their neutral colour palettes and state-of-the-art gizmos, begin at $260, while penthouse lofts go for $550. (55 East Ontario, +1 312 337 1000; jameshotels.com/chicago) COOL The Longman & Eagle offers relatively inexpensive rooms that begin at $95, just upstairs from one of the most beloved casual restaurants in the city. Comfort foods such as homemade sausages and ricotta pasta from chef Matthew Kerney complement the extensive bar menu offering more than 300 whiskeys, seasonal cocktails, and local craft brews. The hotel offers only six rooms but snagging one of the coveted spaces also secures you a spot at the restaurant that’s always bustling but doesn’t take reservations. (2657 North Kedzie Avenue, +1 773 276 7110; longmanandeagle.com) JULY 2015
FOOD | CHICAGO
ALE & PACE
Drink at … ELEGANT The Violet Hour in Chicago’s Wicker Park neighbourhood is one of the city’s most exquisite places to slake your thirst. Skilled bartenders serve bespoke cocktails in an underground space that resembles a refined jewel box lined in silky pewter and dusty violet. Sophisticated cocktails that slip right down, such as the Juliet and Romeo with Beefeater, mint, cucumber and rose water, jockey for attention with feistier concoctions, such as The Rabbit Hole, comprising Letherbee Fernet, lemon, strawberry syrup and Fernet Branca. If drinking these gems isn’t enough, The Violet Hour offers hands-on, Master Bartender classes, where students can learn the secrets behind the magic. (1520 North Damen, +1 773 252 1500; theviolethour.com) LIVELY Big Star in Wicker Park boasts the cuisine of Chicago chef Paul Kahan – he of the celebrated Publican restaurant (thepublicanrestaurant.com) – in a refurbished 1940s gas station, where old time rock ‘n’ roll and late night honky-tonk sessions go down as easy
Craft beer has never been more popular and so the fourth annual Chicago Craft Beer Festival in DePaul/ Lincoln Park has never been bigger. Sup your way through some 75 artisan beers in the tasting tents. July 18-19. chicagoevents.com
as the extensive selection of bourbon and beer. The menu is a topsy-turvy blend of highbrow and lowbrow, such as cans of hipster Schlitz alongside a genteel Penrose “Devoir” Saison. Big Star also boasts an impressive mezcal selection, along with their own line of craft beers developed in conjunction with Chicago beer darling Revolution Brewing. (1531 North Damen, +1 773 235 4039; bigstarchicago.com)
CHEEKY In the Fulton Market, La Sirena Clandestina offers a diverse, seasonal menu of temptations such as steak empanadas and Cuban sandwiches that taste so much better when washed down with clever creations such as the Chilean Pisco, a brunch cocktail consisting of rhubarb amaro, Italian apertif, lemon and agave. The dark brick walls set a moody tone that perfectly complements the NogOff, a barrel-aged cachaça served with Jamaican rum, whole egg, sirop de canne, allspice dram and freshly shaved nutmeg. (954 West Fulton Market, +1 312 226 5300; lasirenachicago.com)
True as steel – the Frank Gehrydesigned Jay Pritzker Pavilion in Millenium Park hosts a multitude of outdoor concerts.
The heat shows no sign of abating at the door of Xoco (rickbayless.com) in Wicker Park, a casual Mexican eatery from Rick Bayless. Patrons wait in line at the counter beneath walls the colour of taco shells for Oaxacan street food specialties, such as spicy pork belly chilaquiles and silky cups of cool bean-to-bar drinking chocolate. If time permits, a more upscale example of Bayless cuisine awaits at his traditional Mexican restaurant Topolobampo in the River North neighbourhood famed for its Fulton Street Market (fultonstreetmarket.org), an urban farmers’ market that supplies many of the city’s restaurants with flowers, produce and handcrafted goodies such as blackberry honey and smoked rabbit sausages. A few blocks away, chef Mario Battali’s vast Italian food emporium Eataly (eataly.com) buzzes with shoppers eager to stuff their canvas shopping bags with every gastronomic import from Italy imaginable, before bellying up to the bar at the centre of the two-floor galleria for a crisp prosecco and bowl of pumpkin caponata with
“At Rustic Stone our philosophy is simple. We source the best seasonal ingredients, then we apply simple techniques to extract the most flavour, while giving you the information you need to add nutrition and structure to your diet. The produce I’ve chosen and our demand for freshness, is the cornerstone of our Rustic idea, while providing a healthy but affordable eating approach.” - Dylan McGrath
17 South Great Georges Street T: 01 707 9596
“Quite simply a menu designed to support the very best of homegrown produce. The food is assembled in an uncomplicated way that relies on its freshness to shine through as a real hero. We are committed to bringing to the plate all that is great from the best of Irish produce, at a time when its is important to support the value, the effort and commitment of our Irish producers and farmers. These people are an inspiration to us; through their passion they are continuously evolving with a determination to be proud of what we do on this rapidly developing food island”. - Dylan McGrath
Taste at Rustic is an exciting new restaurant in the heart of Dublin City. A new food experience by Dylan McGrath to explore the idea of flavour, tastes and in the room cooking, while being influenced by Japan, Spain and South America. “I love the flavour release of some of these cooking techniques. I find something special in the use of their immediate, quick heat and I hope you do too”. - Dylan McGrath
Taste at Rustic 17 South Great George’s St. Dublin 2, Ireland. Tel: +353 (0) 1 7079596
bar layout Centre Tapas y it C ng ti ci Dublin’s dining ed “This ex e new hub of gn th in ed on ti at I have desi posi ing concept th vation in small ar sh a is e en no sc e, seasonal, in u’re to allow simpl ts of flavour. So whether yo or rs ow bu sh e yl om tapas st g back fr in m co e, tr su ea ca al going to the th e company of friends, this th be just enjoying ways fun and engaging to al n”. experience is eaten on the ru or er ov d mulle
- Dylan McGra
Fade St Social, 4-6 Fade St, Dublin 2 T:01 6040066 fadestreetsocial.com
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FOOD | CHICAGO
3 Summer Highlights …
Chicago’s vast Irish-American population is as proud of their motherland as they are of their adopted city. This mutual adoration merges seamlessly from July 10-12 at the Irish American Heritage Festival hosted by the Irish American Heritage Center on North Knox Avenue. The festival showcases dozens of Irish musical, dance and theatrical acts on five stages over the course of three, craft-beer-soaked days. Tickets run from $15-$20 for adults. (irishfestchicago.com)
The Square Roots Music Festival in Lincoln Square celebrates traditional folk music with performances by more than 50 acts from July 10-12. The homage to Chicago’s musical heritage, explores tradition through an eclectic mix of indie rock, world music, dance parties, and open jam sessions. Local brews and regional food are sure to keep the energy levels up for what promises to be an action-packed weekend. Suggested donation is $10 for adults. (squareroots.org)
It wouldn’t be July in Chicago without fireworks to honour America’s Independence Day and there’s no better place to watch them than at the Navy Pier’s Freedom Fest. Barbecue, a full bar and a DJ come together on the Navy Pier rooftop to entertain the thousands of revellers who will gather at this second annual July 4th celebration on the shore of Lake Michigan. General admission is $34 for adults. (navypier.com/events)
freshly pulled mozzarella that gleams as seductively as the pinegreen, olive oil bottles lining the shopping shelves. Just down the street is Trenchermen (trenchermen.com), a dark oasis of glazed chestnut wood and leather stools lining a bar adorned with dozens of vintage-glass stills. In its past life, the retro-vibe restaurant was home to the Luxor Russian Baths. It’s safe to say today’s dishes from chef Patrick Sheerin, such as toasted oats and mapo tofu with lentils, market mushrooms and almonds, or bowls of octopus and squid ink gnocchi with kimchee Bolognese, nori and shiso, were never served to 1920s bathers. Order one last Carrot and the Mule, a refreshing libation of carrot ginger beer, vodka and citrus, before heading over to Ruxbin (ruxbinchicago.com), a restaurant from chef Edward Kim that features steampunk decor in prismatic shades of moss and persimmon and New American dishes glinting with hints of Kim’s Korean heritage, such as prawns and pickled plums with daikon, taro and pumpkin puree.
Before saying farewell to Wicker Park, it’s time for pork sweetbreads with fennel and roasted apricots at The Purple Pig (thepurplepigchicago. com), just a block off the Magnificent Mile. This perpetually bustling eatery, with its open-kitchen and farmhouse ambience, is a collaboration of three celebrated chefs who serve some of their dishes in ceramic pigs that accessorise the wooden beer barrels lining the walls. Maybe afternoon clouds will absorb the blazing sun just in time for a visit visit to Wicker Park’s northern neighbour, Bucktown, a once-scruffy patch of sketchy record shops transformed into trendy art galleries and inviting restaurants, such as chef Chris Pandel’s The Bristol (thebristolchicago.com). This universally adored spot, with its rustic chic interior, offers unique but unpretentious dishes such as roasted carrots and whipped Stracchino cheese with golden raisins and toasted pistachios, beneath abstract oil paintings from local artists. A pint awaits at Half Acre Beer Company
Opposite, Anish Kapoor’s famous Cloud Gate aka “The Bean” at the entrance of Millenium Park. Below, Fulton Market is a popular hangout.
(halfacrebeer.com) just west of Bucktown, where the brewery tour culminates with a chilled can of Daisy Cutter Pale Ale. There’s still a little time to unwind with another drink just north of Bucktown at Homestead on the Roof (homesteadontheroof.com), a breezy organic restaurant with its own rooftop planter boxes and vertical gardens serving more than 100 artisan spirits and thirst-quenching, rotating craft brews.
PHOTOGRAPHS PAUL SHERWOOD
French health food company joins Ireland’s business boom The land of ‘céad míle fáilte’ has flung its arms open to thousands of international companies, thanks to Ireland’s amazing business landscape that includes a young, talented and highly-educated workforce. hrough the Succeed in Ireland initiative, delivered by ConnectIreland in partnership with IDA Ireland, close to 50 small and medium-sized companies have decided to establish in Ireland. These international companies, which were looking at expanding elsewhere, were convinced to locate their new operations in Ireland after an introduction was made by a friend, family member or business contact. Almost 1,500 jobs are being created right across the country as a result. One such company that’s creating jobs is a French health food enterprise, which recently established a European hub in Dublin. Passion Spiruline, a superfood company, which already distributes into the UK, Western Europe and Australian markets will create thirteen jobs in the coming three years. Five of these jobs are already in place. The company produces and sells the Spirulina supplement, an iron-rich health food and dietary supplement, in a variety of forms, including petals, nibs and crunchies. For St Patrick’s Day, they produced a celebratory green ale in collaboration with the Independent Brewing Company, combining the health benefits and vibrant colour of the supplement with the passionately brewed Irish beer. Commenting on the expansion, Alois Medee, director of Passion Spiruline, says: “We are delighted to have settled in the heart of Dublin City. Being in Ireland will enable us to grow our operations and expand our commercial efforts into other
English-speaking countries. This can only be done by benefiting from a highly-skilled local workforce. “We are immensely happy with the services provided by ConnectIreland. They have been a tremendous help to us, most significantly giving important advice and putting us in contact with the right people and organisations, thereby helping us grow our business here in Ireland.” Fellow director, Renaud d’Avout d’Auerstaedt agrees: “I was so overwhelmed by the quality of ConnectIreland’s support in the tough initial stages that I actually felt the need to insist that we weren’t expecting to become the next Facebook! “After a careful analysis of different
Passion Spiruline’s director/CFO Alois Medee (far left) and development director Renaud d’Avout d’Auerstaedt (far right), show their product to Richard Bruton TD – minister for jobs, enterprise and innovation – and ConnectIreland’s COO Joanna Murphy.
potential host countries, we decided Ireland would best fit our needs as a dynamic food start-up with a European reach.” Passion Spiruline was introduced to ConnectIreland by a friend who considered Ireland the best location for their business. If you believe that Ireland is the right business environment for international companies, reach out to your network and see if they know of, or work in, a company considering European expansion. Put ConnectIreland in touch with the company and let us do the rest. By registering as a connector you could earn a reward of up to €1,500 for every job created, up to a maximum of 100 jobs. Register online at connectireland.com today.
DO YOUR PART AND EARN UP TO €150,000 Companies from around the globe have been introduced to the benefits of doing business in Ireland through the best channel imaginable – the people. Irish people, the diaspora and friends of Ireland have all been playing their part in sharing the message that, not only is Ireland open for business, it is also the best place to go for a wealth of opportunities. Men and women who believe
that Ireland is the only place to do business are using their networks to help create real, sustainable jobs in the country that they love. Through ConnectIreland, the company responsible for delivering the Government’s Succeed in Ireland initiative, in partnership with IDA Ireland, these people are helping to change the business landscape in Ireland. And you can too.
Consider who you know living and working abroad and ask them if their company is expanding. Introduce them to ConnectIreland and you could earn up to €150,000 for your efforts. There is a reason why thousands of international companies have established operations in Ireland. Be part of that reason. Register on: connectireland.com
Looking for somewhere to do business in Europe? Look no further
THE BEST COUNTRY IN THE
3 SIMPLE STEPS TO FIND OUT MORE
Log on to ConnectIreland.com and register as a connector
Introduce us to an internationally expanding company
Once the company is up and running, you receive â‚Ź1,500 for each job created (min of 3 jobs, max 100)
ConnectIreland, delivering the Succeed in Ireland initiative in association with the IDA
For more log on to connectireland.com JULY 2015
FOOD | CHICAGO
ILLUSTRATION BY KATHI BURKE
The day is winding down just in time for Logan Square, where the sun sets above the neighbourhood’s eclectic blend of upscale cocktail lounges, seedy dive bars and two of Chicago’s most talked about restaurants. Before diving in, invigorate the palate at Gaslight Coffee Roasters (gaslightcoffeeroasters.com) where single origin coffee is meticulously roasted in a rustic space featuring just the right amount of kitsch and taxidermy. Now it’s time for Fat Rice (eatfatrice.com), where chef and coowners Abe Conlon and Adrienne Lo serve an eclectic Macanese menu of small bites such as sweet and sour eggplant with spicy peanut sauce, and larger dishes such as bacalhau, a salt cod spread with olive, chili, mint and bread in metal crocks that are heated over a wood-fired grill before being delivered, family-style, to the hungry masses. The city cools down in a violet twilight that streams through the floor-to-ceiling windows of Yusho (yusho-chicago.com), a Japanese restaurant where grills fire intoxicating bites such as lamb meatball skewers just in time for the last call of the day. Chef Matthias Merges serves many of his dishes in donabe clay pots or on bamboo trays lined with Japanese newspapers to a late-night crowd eager to gobble gastronomic delights, such as steam buns with tempura catfish, yuzu aioli, candied sesame and jalapeño. With that, a sip of warm sake draws the curtain on a summer’s day in Chicago, a place as varied as its people whose heartstrings stretch nostalgically back to their homelands, but who have discovered a fresh beginning in a city born of the passions and traditions of the immigrant populations who have always found safe refuge here. Follow Jody @jodyeddy Meals on wheels, Chicago-style – Salsa Truck .
AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO CHICAGO ELEVEN TIMES PER WEEK, AND EVERY TUESDAY, THURSDAY AND FRIDAY DURING WINTER
CULTURE | ROME
Rome is so impossibly handsome that places such as the Pantheon, pictured here, will always translate well into holiday snaps.
Reels Rome of
Swing a camera around in Italy’s capital and you’ll make a beautiful picture, so it’s no wonder filmmakers love to shoot here. John Butler wanders through some famous locations in this most photogenic of cities. Photographs by Matthew Thompson.
CULTURE | ROME
find travelling to be inherently film-dramatic. I can’t board a train anywhere in Europe without feeling a little like Matt Damon as Jason Bourne (and that includes the DART) and, in addition to being a monstrous drama queen, I am also a filmmaker and a fan of Italian cinema. I cannot expect you to comprehend my giddy excitement upon descending the train at Rome’s Termini (a for-nothing €14 ride from the airport). It’s only partly due to the location here of Europe’s largest studio, Cinecitta (more on that later), that it’s known as Europe’s most film-friendly capital. Swing a camera around here and you’ll make a beautiful picture. Rome earned the nickname “The Eternal City” in ancient times; emperors and lowly citizenry alike unable to envisage a world without it at the very centre, but the natural beauty and the relatively unchanging shape (the colour and
The stairs most travelled – the famous Spanish Steps, top. Above, our man filmmaker John Butler is delighted by Rome’s cinematic wonders.
texture of the buildings) lend even more sense to the sobriquet as the centuries roll past. By way of comparison, a recent online piece re-visited the filming locations of The Commitments, bemoaning how unrecognisable Dublin now was, 25 years since Alan Parker’s film was released – yet the Rome of Vittorio De Sica’s Bicycle Thieves, filmed nearly 70 years ago, is nearly entirely unchanged. Buildings, climate and the historical influence all lie at the root of the relationship between The Eternal City and film, but there is also the inherent drama of Rome’s inhabitants. Get among them by walking from morning to night, witnessing the eruption of a volcanic argument on the street, you’ll be convinced that somebody’s about to get a stabbing – until the antagonists
hug and kiss and you realise they were discussing the weather. In a day, and on foot, you can cover the film sites. Begin at the Spanish Steps, located almost at the dead centre of the city, east of the Via del Corso, which bisects the side of the city west of the Tiber. Virtually all Rome-set movies feature characters skipping down these steps (Bertolucci’s Besieged most prominently), though not the kind of walking that ever convinced you they lead anywhere. Most notably, though, it was at a café at the foot of these steps that Matt Damon’s Tom Ripley orchestrated the meeting of Cate Blanchett and Gwyneth Paltrow, observing it all, Godlike, from the top. These days Café Dinelli is in fact a Missoni store. Oh, well. Climbing the famous
Virtually all rome-set movies feature characters skipping down the Spanish Steps
A watercolour painting by Róisín O’Shea © 2012
ohnnie Fox’s Pub situated in the heart of the Dublin Mountains has it all, a living museum of Irish History andTradition where unique pieces from old farm implements to Historical antiquities adorn every wall, nook & cranny. Serving an award winning a la carte menu from 12.30 until late, with live musicians playing traditional Irish music 7 nights a week, our special kind of Irish welcome is not to be missed.
ituated only 40 minutes from Dublin City Centre and 10 minutes from Dundrum or Enniskerry Villages why not take our private shuttle bus which will collect you from an array of Dublin City or County Hotels operated by ExpressBus.ie (01 8221122) for €5 each way.
For a real treat one should experience the world famous show known as the Johnnie Fox’s HOOLEY night which includes the esteemed Johnnie Fox’s troop of Irish dancers, live traditional Irish music, a full 4 course evening meal and plenty of great craic….. at only €49.95 per person. • • • •
AWARD WINNING KITCHEN TRADITIONAL IRISH ENTERTAINMENT CORPORATE EVENTS PRIVATE PARTIES
Johnnie Fox’s Pub l Glencullen l Co. Dublin
l Ireland l Tel: (01) 295 5647 Email: email@example.com
SEAFOOD IS OUR SPECIALITY AWARDWINNING A LA CARTE MENU
CULTURE | ROME
Eat at … FANTASTIC FARE Tucked away behind the Colosseum, Naumachia is a simple Roman trattoria that serves a fantastic bucatini all’Amatriciana, fettuccini with sausage, and deep-fried artichoke hearts with anchovy. If you can’t get in here, Da Luzzi next door is an equally fine place with outdoor seating, where they serve a spectacular lasagne. (Via Celimontana 7, +39 067 002 764; naumachiaroma.com)
CELEBRITY HAUNT Santa Lucia is one of a number of places wherein Julia Roberts enjoys a complete mental and spiritual rebirth by submitting to a simple plate of Italian carbohydrates. Facetious snarking aside, this restaurant is well worth reserving. Leonardo DiCaprio, Harvey Keitel, Rupert Everett – all past customers. I do hope they ordered the suckling pig – it’s out of this world. (Largo Febo 12, +39 066 880 2427; santaluciaristorante.it)
WELL LOCATED Trastevere is marginally less touristy and a little care-worn, and all the better for that. Mainly for its location, I enjoyed pizza and Parma ham at Grazia e Graziella, an inexpensive and very friendly place. If you’re tired from all the walking, this is the spot to sit on the front terrace, absorb the atmosphere and watch the world trip past. (Largo MD Fumasoni Biondi 5, +39 065 880 398 graziaegraziella.it)
steps takes you to Via Veneto, where you’ll find Harry’s Bar and Café de Paris, both of which feature in Fellini’s La Dolce Vita, the film which gave the world the word paparazzi. A stone’s throw down the hill from here, in Roman Holiday, Gregory Peck’s dissolute reporter occupied Via Margutta 51, while Rome’s most celebrated film auteur, Federico Fellini, himself lived for many years at 110. A flung coin away in the other direction (a ten-minute walk south) lies the Trevi Fountain, where €3,000 worth of wishes are deposited into the water, daily. This sight might lay claim to being the epicentre of movie Rome, having been immortalised over and over in film, from Three Coins in the Fountain – a quite forgettable film but an unforgettable song by Frank Sinatra, La Dolce Vita and, of course, the immense ... Gidget goes to Rome. In Roman Holiday, it is from here that Gregory Peck spied on Audrey Hepburn as the newly liberated princess got “that” haircut on Via della Stamperia. In reality, as with many urban landmarks, by day and early in the evening the fountain is packed with hordes dutifully hoovering up another “experience” via selfie stick. Late at night, though, they’re safely in their rooms counting Facebook “likes”. Stop by after dinner and you can actually see the fountain and hear the water, and stand there and look at it and, you know, have a think. Besides, it was at night, and in La Dolce Vita that Anita Ekberg coaxed Marcello Mastroianni into the waters for a dip (not recommended at any hour). Fittingly, after the great Mastroianni’s passing, the fountain’s waters were shut off, the façade draped in black. Onwards! To the Piazza Navona, stopping briefly at the 2,000-yearold geometric wonder that is the Pantheon, which featured in the film Angels & Demons. Scenes from films as diverse as Catch 22 and Eat Pray Love were filmed at Piazza Navona but here, the Italian
propensity for drama plays out even more dramatically in the area of architecture. The intense rivalry between Baroque architects Bernini and Borromini is storied and, wandering around the “Fountain of the Rivers”, note how two of the figures in Bernini’s fountain are averting their gaze from the church of St Agnes directly opposite – designed by Borromini. I’m guessing
Opposite, the Trevi Fountain, immortalised by Anita Ekberg in La Dolce Vita. Top, a policeman in formal dress on Via del Salvatore; above, a vintage camera at Cinecitta, and right, the evocative Pantheon, which ‘starred’ in Angels & Demons.
CULTURE | ROME
Stay at … Rome is teeming with hotel options, but I’m going to stick my neck out and recommend that you pick one of the many in the neighbourhood known as Monti. HIGH END The five-star Hotel Nerva is a pretty, high-end boutique hotel, a stone’s throw from the Colosseum. Being also a few minutes’ walk from Rome Termini and about ten minutes’ walk from the tourist bustle of Rome’s centre this hotel is a great base for your Rome adventure. Double rooms from €230. (Via Tor de’ Conti 3-4, +39 066 781 835; hotelnerva.com) MID PRICE Four-star Hotel Forum occupies a prime spot at the foot of this neighbourhood undergoing something of a renaissance. The finest feature of this 80-bedroom hotel is the rooftop restaurant boasting views of the Palatine hill and the Colosseum. In reverse order of glamorousness, Alain Delon stayed here. So did the Dalai Lama. And so did Liz Taylor. Double rooms from €190. (Via Tor de’ Conti 25-30, +39 066 792 446; hotelforum.com) BARGAIN Rooms are small but clean in Antico Palazzo Rospigliosi, a perfectly serviceable Euro-hotel fronting onto the Santa Maria Maggiore (in front of which there’s a nice open-air market). Some 40 bedrooms are available from around €80 per night. Your stay here includes a decent continental breakfast (with rather less decent coffee, it must be said), and there’s a church on the third floor, should your gastronomic excesses require late-night absolution. (Antico Palazzo Rospigliosi, +39 064 893 0495; therelaxinghotels.com) NEW Now, this isn’t in Monti – it’s situated within minutes of the Piazza Navona – but if you’d rather not stay in a hotel, the G-Rough apartments are worth checking out. In addition to its hotel service, a series of suites are available to rent, each furnished with interesting pieces, designed to a high spec but with a sense of home-away-from-home. Exposed wooden beams, two king beds, a living area and a small kitchen make them ideal for small groups and families. Not only do you get to stay right at the heart of the action but, after tramping the city all day, sometimes it’s nice to eat in, high above the bustle. From €835 a night for four. (Piazza di Pasquino 69, +39 066 880 1085; g-rough.it)
Above, Lola Patumi soaks up the atmosphere. Below, Caravaggio’s masterful St Matthew trilogy in the San Luigi Dei Francesi’s Contarelli Chapel.
this is the earliest recorded instance of celebrities throwing shade – Bey and Mariah would be proud. Of greater cultural significance, though, is the fact that in Eat Pray Love Julia Roberts’ character responds orgasmically to a gelato at the steps of Borromini’s church! Apart from that, shortly after offing Jude Law with a boat oar, ambling through the piazza with Cate Blanchett, Matt Damon’s Tom Ripley tells her “I’ve never been happier. I feel I’ve been handed a new life”. Perhaps he’d also tried the gelato. By the way, just as there
is for Roman Holiday and Angels & Demons, there is an Eat Pray Love walking tour ... It would be remiss to leave the environs without stopping in at the San Luigi Dei Francesi church to see (for free) the Matthew trilogy by Caravaggio, before crossing the Tiber via Ponte Sant’Angelo. Look directly below, for here was moored the boat where the infamous party (and fight scene) of Roman Holiday took place. The portico of the church of Santa Maria in Cosmidin is where you’ll find the Mouth of Truth, where Hepburn and Peck risked their hands, also in Roman Holiday, while further on in Trastevere are some of the sights of Bicycle Thieves (as well as some terrific restaurants). A little to the south, the Porta Portese Market where father and son search in vain for his bicycle still runs on the weekends, although the bridge itself, on the southern end of Trastevere is business-like, trafficky and of value only to the most ardent cinéaste. Bicycle Thieves lay at the vanguard of the Italian “neorealist” movement but, wandering on foot as the protagonists did, illustrates creative embellishments even in this genre. Da Sica’s
CULTURE | ROME
The ancient city of Rome recreated in the ancient city of Rome â€“ or, specifcally, at Cinicitta film studios.
Don’t miss … SCOOTERS Audrey Hepburn commandeering Greg Peck’s Vespa and getting them into trouble in Roman Holiday was an act of madness, but renting one of these wee beasties for the day is not quite as nutty a proposition as it sounds. Rome’s traffic is only ever reported upon with horror from the perspective of tourists trying to walk around it. In reality, the streets are made to navigate on a scooter and traffic moves at a moderate pace. Go on – you only live once. Bici & Baci rents Vespas for about €45 a day, they also run Vespa and bike tours if you’d like to be shown the sights rather than find them yourself, and there’s also a Vespa museum in the basement. bicibaci.com
STUDIO TOUR A 20-minute metro train ride from Termini deposits you at the biggest film studio in Europe, where Scorsese made Gangs of New York, where Ben Hur was filmed, where the TV series Rome (natch) was filmed, and The Life Aquatic created by Wes Anderson. For €22, Cinecitta offers guided tours for groups between 9.30am and 6pm (as an individual you can join in), and visitors can see a permanent exhibition of props and costume, in addition to peeking at the outdoor and sets. The studio also runs temporary art exhibitions (it’s showing photographer Steve McCurry’s work until September 20), so it’s worth checking in advance. cinecitta.it
MONTE Formerly the Roman equivalent of Dublin’s red-light district Monto, this great little quarter is now home to some of Rome’s best bars, restaurants and vintage clothes stores. Amble along Via del Bochetto, to the intersection of Via Zingare – that’s Piazza Della Montana Dei Monte, where people gather at night to drink wine and talk. This neighbourhood is greatly atmospheric, particularly the bars along Via Panisperna (try Ai Tre Scalini or Bar Zilial). Lastly, it would be remiss not to mention one gelateria and the Fatamorgana gelateria at the Piazza degli Zingari was the best I found. And on this, I really did my research ...
CULTURE | ROME
ILLUSTRATION BY ELLY WALTON
determination to avoid showing the tourist landmarks so favoured by Hollywood might have made the film feel “real” but, for example, an accidental falling in at the Tiber, where father is convinced he has lost his son, could only be achieved many kilometres north. Emotional truth counts for much more. From Trastevere, venture a 20-minute walk to the Vatican to satisfy your longing for fugitive albino monks, or cross the river and head through the Jewish Quarter, then south towards the Circus Maximus and the Colosseum. Whichever direction you choose, films are a beautiful lie and we all know it. The sun was setting just as the Colosseum began to reveal itself to me. Just then, a Pakistani man dressed as a gladiator stepped into my line of view, offering me an informal tour of the ancient site. Waving him away I skipped past the line of Somalis vending selfie sticks (business is brisk), and began to hear the strain of Peruvian pan pipers playing “Bridge Over Troubled Water”. I imagine the long-dead emperors would be thrilled at all this – the Palatine Hill and environs are still an epicentre of world culture, in a way. But I would advise you not
SHADOWS AND DUST
to take in these sights late on a Sunday afternoon, Get goosebumps on a “Moon on a bank holiday. I on the Colosseum” guided tour. returned at dawn and Rambling around the arena’s bowels was left speechless. Yes, in broad daylight is atmospheric films are a lie in how enough, but come nighttime it’s they reveal the truth of splendidly spooky. Every Mon, Thur a city, but suspending and Sat until October 10; 8.10pm one’s disbelief is one of until midnight. coopculture.it the great pleasures of life, just as much when you’re walking around Rome as in the darkness of the cinema. The city of Rome can never hope to recreate the magic of Rome on screen, but it Holy moly! Long queues at the certainly gets close. Vatican.
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BEACH BREAK | CASCAIS
COOL CASCAIS Lisbon enjoys a reputation as one of Europeâ€™s hippest cities and nearby Cascais has an easygoing sophistication that is equally worthy of celebration. Eoin Higgins explores, and photographs, the area.
A view of the Santa Marta Lighthouse and Museum, Cascais.
BEACH BREAK | CASCAIS
ruising along the sun-kissed Avenida Marginal out of Lisbon, Cascais bound, I flick on the radio as yet another unfeasibly speedy German estate car whooshes by in the fast lane. Hitting the auto-tune, digits tumble toward and lock onto, the crisp, static-free stereo of 98.1. Rádio Marginal plays a mix of mid-tempo soul and jazz – the right kind of aural salve to soothe a stressed, pre-holiday mind and, as Steely Dan’s “Home at Last” fills the compact’s air-conditioned interior, I feel like I’m finally getting there. The N6, as it’s less romantically known, stretches from Lisbon and hugs the Estoril coastline until it peters out at Cascais. As a hub for exploring this varied, yet compact, region of Portugal, there are few better locations. One of the wealthier Portuguese municipalities, from its humble 12th-century beginnings as a fishing village, Cascais’ star has risen steadily over the years – its glamorous reputation peaking in the 19th century when it became a summer playground for Portugal’s royal family and their high-rolling hangers-on. That fusion of simple tradition and the good life is still evident, from the small-town humility and helpfulness of its locals, to the opulent style of its private homes and its rejuvenating, Riviera-like atmosphere. The town itself is easilynavigable but a good start for any outward journey is the Citadel, once a strategic fortress of defence and where, in 1896, King Carlos I established Portugal’s first oceanographic laboratory. These days it houses a hotel,
quality gift shops and a charming bookshop – Déjà Lu is a charitable endeavour (all profits go to the Portuguese Down Syndrome Association) so picking up some pre-loved holiday reading material here is a worthy indulgence. Afterwards, a pleasant café, downstairs is a good spot to gather one’s bearings before discovering
As a hub for exploring the varied, yet compact, region of Portugal, there are few better locations than Cascais 94 |
Top, fishing off the rugged coastline at Guincho. Above, flâneur Eoin Higgins takes us on a road trip around Lisbon’s doorstep.
some of the town’s museums – a good way to remain chilled during the day’s hottest hours. The Museum Quarter comprises twelve spaces. Highlights, including the Santa Marta Lighthouse Museum, Museu do Mar Rei D Carlos, and the Portuguese Music Museum, are each great stop-offs, but an unmissable visit is to the Casa das Histórias Paula Rego (House of Stories) featuring works from the famous Portuguese painter, printmaker and illustrator. The building itself (designed by Eduardo Souto de Moura) is just as impressive as the brilliant paintings exhibited within. Set in amongst the museums,
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BEACH BREAK | CASCAIS
Stay at … SELF-CATERING Great deals abound on airbnb.com but if you’d rather something a little more comprehensive, Vila Bicuda is an excellent choice, combining good value with excellent amenities. Popular with families, the resort is located between Cascais proper and the beaches of Guincho. Double studios from €81 per night. (Rua dos Faisões, 2750-689 Cascais, +351 214 860 200; vilabicuda.com)
MODERN A luxurious spa, an infinity pool, smart restaurants and bars, Hotel Miragem is a good choice for those who like to keep their creature comforts close to hand. The staff are excellent and unimposing, while the beach and sea views, as well as their proximity, are pretty hard to beat. Double rooms from €180 per night. (Avenida Marginal, 2754-536 Cascais, +351 210 060 600; cascaismirage.com)
CLASSIC The Albatroz Seafront Hotel affords soothing views of the Cascais coastline. Originally an aristocratic residence, the hotel keeps some of those old-school glamorous flourishes, adding all the modern conveniences one would expect. The restaurant is excellent, too. Double rooms from €190. (Rua Frederico Arouca, 2750-353 Cascais, +351 214 847 380; albatrozhotels.com)
Grandiose designs – opposite, Casa das Histórias, the Paula Rego art gallery in Cascais. This page, the whimsical architecture of Sintra’s Palácio Nacional de Pena.
BEACH BREAK | CASCAIS
The Albatroz Seafront Hotel is a true charmer for both guests and visitors to its terrace bar and restaurant. Below, the view from Park bar, Lisbon.
the Parque Marechal Carmona is a surprisingly verdant green space. Lawns, ponds, a playground and lots of sculpture – not to mention the peacocks and roosters that roam freely – all conspire to make this a versatile (and free) family activity spot. The park also runs alongside the road to the region’s unique beach area, Guincho, about a 15-minute drive away. Guincho is a craggy collection of soft beaches beaten and battered into calm submission by a raging Atlantic. On the way from Cascais, Forte de Oitavos is an interesting drop-in. The restored 17th-century fort was once home to a garrison tasked with defending the mouth of the River Tagus from pirates and would-be foreign invaders. Nowadays, it houses a museum that concentrates upon the military angle but, up on the rooftop, it also provides great views of the coastline. Further on to Guincho proper, you’ll find the region’s watersports utopia, where surfing, wind-surfing, kite-surfing and competitive sailing all find their currents along the beach. For some this is an opportunity, for
6 Lisbon must-dos RELAX The Portuguese have the right idea about work/life balance, and seem to have perfected the art of simply being in the moment. In the evening make your way up through Bairro Alto to hang out with the cool kids at the viewpoint Miradouro de Santa Catarina, or just take it easy with a relaxing stroll about by the seafront near Praça do Comércio. GULBENKIAN MUSEUM With a permanent exhibition that is broken into two distinct tours, which, in turn, are laid out geographically and chronologically, this is an archive that appeals to the highly-ordered museum buff. Engaging temporary exhibitions mean that the Gulbenkian should be visited early to avoid the crowds in peak season. (Av. Berna 45A, +351 21 782 3000; museu.gulbenkian.pt) OCEANARIUM Europe’s largest indoor aquarium is located in the Parque das Nações parish just northeast of the city centre. The Peter-Chermayeff-designed building houses a huge collection of species, from sharks to
pufferfish and is a truly impressive experience, especially for families. Afterwards, top-notch shopping is to be found at the nearby Vasco da Gama mall. (Esplanada Dom Carlos I s/n°, +351 21 891 7002; oceanario.pt) ALFAMA As well as being a great workout for fatted calves, trekking through the steep streets of Lisbon’s oldest district gives an intriguing insight into the city’s present, as much as it does its past. Alfama is very much a visual treat; from its charming ng architectural sights, to its splashes of graffiti and exceptional views, there’s a lot to take in. EATING Lisbon’s culinary repertoire doesn’t begin and end with the sardine, although that’s a very good place to start. From the simplicity, and great buzz, in places like Casa da India (Rua do Loreto, Bairro Alto) to the trailblazing at Cantinho do Avillez (R Duques de Bragança 7, Chiado; cantinhodoavillez.pt), the city groans with fab restaurants to savour and remember.
NIGHTLIFE Bairro Alto perches atop the city as a beacon of creativity. Restaurants, boutiques and record stores vie for the attention of the super hip young things that throng its streets, especially at night when street carousing is the order of the evening. A good start to an evening’s revelry is Park (Calçada do Combro, 58), a cool bar on the sixth floor of a multi-storey car park. Just before sunset, order a mojito and enjoy the spectacular view.
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BEACH BREAK | CASCAIS
others a claxon call to proceed with caution. This is no calm Mediterranean, so only experienced surfers and swimmers should dive straight in. A good place for learners to check in though is at Moana Surf School (moanasurfschool.com), where surf teachers Eric and Lucy Larsen are on hand to help you stay afloat. However, as windswept and challenging as the seafaring might be, there is also an undeniably calm undertone to Guincho, as though the beach buffs and adventurers that loll about its fine sands aren’t rising to the ocean’s provocation. And that’s probably wise. In the summer heat, a calm countenance is a must and subsequently the vibe here can be very relaxed. Beside 100 |
the surf school, a light lunch at Bar do Guincho (bardoguincho.pt) is a good way to get one’s slouch on. A fresh salmon salad while looking out over the crashing waves is a particularly good holiday lunch. Further inland, less windswept yet just as interesting, another jewel in the region’s crown, is the chocolate-box beauty of Sintra, described by Lord Byron, who visited on his grand tour, as a “glorious Eden”. A royal array of palaces dots the misty, pine-clad hills of this resort, a big draw for day-trippers. Steep winding roads and scary hair-pin bends that make it hard to fathom just how your tour bus is climbing them, lead to a number of architectural
Clockwise from above, ornate details abound in Cascais; Yvette Garcia enjoys the famous Pasteis de Belém; quirky Cascais book store Déjà Lu; fashion model, Lafayette, celebrates her birthday at Park bar, Lisbon.
Eat at … CONTEMPORARY The specialties at Moules & Gin are, as it says on the tin, mussels musse and gin and there’s a fine selection of pleasing executions of avai both available in this cool, casual space. Reasonably Reasonabl priced, but book ahead. (Rua Nova da Alfarrobeira 14, 2750-452 Cascais, +351 21 486 7604)
wonders. The pinnacle, in terms of scale, is the Palácio Nacional da Pena. The palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of the foremost examples of 19th-century Romanticism ism in Europe. Twisted minarets, narets, sculpted balconies, and ornate towers belie influences from Medieval and Islamic sources, all surrounded by 200 hectares of lush national park. Sintra is home, too, to Sintra National Palace, Monserrate Palace, Castelo dos Mouros, among other stone-built curiosities, should you wish to take in the full house. South of Sintra and ten minutes
from Cascais, Estoril, is another once-playground of the rich and famous. It is now best known for its beaches (bigger and less crowded than Cascais’ in the summer months) and the Casino Estoril (casino-estoril.pt) with its dastardly history ... During the Second World War, Estoril was a bolt-hole for spies and shady interlopers. Casino Royale, Ian Fleming’s first James Bond
TRADITIONAL None of your fancy TRADITI stuff at Restaurante Dom Pedro I and all the better for it. Enjoy the classic clas Portuguese simplicity of shellfish sh and rice (€24 for two) while wh ogling the beautiful 19thce century tiles adorning the walls of this bijou neighbourhood restaurant. re (Beco dos Inválidos 32, 2750-376 Cascais, +351 21 483 3734; dompedrocascais.com) Clockwise from top left, photo hi-jinx at Praia Ribeira; Sol, Bernardo Ornelas, Lucy Larsen and Eric Larsen at Moana Surf School; a scooter made for two, Cascais.
FINE DINING Another candidate for the “it does what it says on the tin” award: the Gourmet Restaurant specialises in elevating local ingredients and dishes. Friendly service, spectacular views towards Cascais harbour, exemplary service and a sophisticated menu and wine list. (Avenida Marginal, 2754-536 Cascais, +351 210 060 600; cascaismirage.com)
novel, was inspired by the writer’s own experiences on a wartime trip to neutral Portugal and led to his inspiration for the scene where 007 is tasked with bankrupting Soviet counterintelligence operative, Le Chiffre. Those days of heady intrigue may have left Estoril, but the casino still exists and a fun flutter is an exciting way to spend a few evening hours. Portugal’s reputation SEAFOOD as a golfing destination A 20-minute drive north is assured and this of Sintra, Ericeira is rightly region is no exception. course has been played renowned as a destination World-class links and by some of the world’s for the region’s best seafood courses are scattered best, from Ballesteros to restaurants; Esplanada Furnas throughout. Notably, Torrance. (restaurantefurnasericeira.com) is the course at Quinta Back on the road, particularly good, while the town da Marinha, which further east along Avenida itself has a very pleasing laidcomprises almost Marginal, past Estoril and back vibe. Great beach – six square kilometres towards Lisbon, Belém Praia do Sul – too. of beautified natural is famous for a number of surroundings, has some attractions, not least Pasteis interesting challenges for de Belém, reputed to be the home accomplished and weekend of Lisbon’s best pastéis de nata, the swingers alike. Then there’s the moreish custard tarts that are said Arthur-Hills-designed Oitavos to have been first created a couple Dunes, recognised internationally of hundred metres away at the as one of the world’s best natural Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (also worth links courses. For improvers, there a visit) in the 18th century. The café/ are superb facilities to practise and bakery is typically thronged with perfect, including an impressive out-of-towners hoping to take-away, driving range, as well as a short-game or enjoy at a table, the deliciousness option with two greens, bunkers, on offer. After the indulgences, there fairway and rough areas. And finally, is also the impressive monument Above left, Sintra Estoril Golf Course, which was Padrão dos Descobrimentos resident Jaoa established in 1929, is a 5,200-metre (Monument to the Discoveries) to Freitas hangs out course overlooking Estoril and the admire from the ground or, if your with newfound Atlantic Ocean. Lessons and clinics fear of heights is slight, the viewing pal, Sol, on are available year-round and the ledge, 52 metres up. Guincho Beach. 102 |
ILLUSTRATION BY FUCHSIA MacAREE
BEACH BREAK | CASCAIS
After the heady heights of a day’s exploring, Cascais is always a short trip home, and evening diversions are easy to find in the town, too. Whether it’s sauntering off the main streets, where residences are often white-walled and clad in bougainvillea or wisteria, to discover hidden tascas (the nofrills, cheap-as-chips traditional eateries that locals are rightly proud of) or enjoying cocktails and a boogie at one of the nightclubs or bars down by the marina, your nights in Cascais can be just as adventurous as your days spent discovering its rich hinterland. Follow Eoin @EoinHiggins CARTRAWLER CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK CARTRAWLER FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE. FOR THE BEST CAR RENTAL DEALS, VISIT AERLINGUSCARS.COM.
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EURO BEACHES | BEING THERE
Summer is upon us, so thoughts of spreading out beneath the sun on a warm, sandy beach are never far away. Fionn Davenport highlights seven beaches worth dreaming about.
Praia da Marinha, Algarve, Portugal Portugal’s most photographed beach and the star of a thousand tourist brochures, this beautiful cove is sandwiched between a perfectly blue sea and a rising stack of honey-coloured cliffs that have been gnawed by erosion into a beautiful fantasy of arches and grottoes.
Because it’s a little bit harder to get to than most of the surrounding beaches it attracts fewer crowds, making it more likely that you’ll find a nice stretch of golden sand on which to lie. From there you can strike out with a snorkel and explore the deep blue waters (which give it
its alternative name of Navy Beach), a collection of rock pools full of marine life and strange cave formations that can also be visited by boat (there are plenty of options from Vilamoura and Albufeira). The beach is eight kilometres south of Lagoa; and just under 60 kilometres from Faro.
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EURO BEACHES | BEING THERE
Acitrezza, Sicily The key ingredient of eastern Sicily’s beaches is black volcanic rock, courtesy of Europe’s most irritable volcano, Etna, which dominates the inland landscape. The best of these is at Acitrezza, a small town about 16 kilometres north of Catania that in recent years has become the beach destination for locals in-the-know. Part of the reason is the gravelly beach, set against dark, imposing cliffs that slide into a clear sea of splendid turquoise – active volcanoes are an occasional inconvenience, but their busy minerals do provide some stunning colours. The nightlife also impresses: not too hectic, but energetic enough to draw punters in from miles around. The clincher though is the rock stacks known as the Faraglioni dei Ciclopi – the Cyclops’ Lighthouses – for it was here, according to legend, that the giant cyclops Polyphemus tried to stop Ulysses from escaping by hurling giant rocks at his ship. Thankfully for Homer and those of us who enjoy the view, he missed.
Agadir, Morocco As city beaches go, Agadir is a contender for best in show. A favourite with winter sun worshippers, the long, wide strand that fronts the town is always a bustle of activity – there are wet-bikers and paragliders, snorkelers, the odd surfer and, occasionally, a camel train or two, yet despite the action, an air of calm pervades. Holidaymakers come to Agadir because it’s warm, even in January, and you can swim and sunbathe most of the year. The beach is lined with four and fivestar hotels, cafés and restaurants where you can work off an appetite by tucking into a tagine or sampling the delicious mint tea.
History In The Making... Our story begins in 1905, on the sea-washed decks of the Battleship ‘Potemkin,’ when Ivan Beshoff first set sail with the famous Russian Imperial Tsarist fleet. Eight years later he arrived in Dublin and began building what, by 1939, would be the origin of a legacy that has so far spanned three generations, Beshoff Bros Fish 'n Chips . Ivan’s son, Anthony, and his wife, Kathleen, worked hard to expand the family business until it became a household name, known for its superior quality and natural goodness. Today, decades later, the legend lives on through the next generation, Richard and John Beshoff, as they continue to use the finest ingredients, and their meticulous attention to detail, to proudly continue their family business and provide the highest quality of fresh fish n’ chips to the Dublin community. In honour of their grandfather Ivan Beshoff, who died at 104 years of age as the last survivor of the Potemkin, Richard and John have described their fish n’ chips as ‘Imperial Perfection’ and hope you enjoy every morsel of them.
Over 75 years of mouth-watering quality! • Breakfast Served everyday in Dame Street • Family Meal Deals always available • Low Calorie & Gluten Free Meals *
www.beshoffbros.com YOU CAN FIND US IN DUBLIN: HOWTH MESPIL ROAD* CLONTARF* DAME STREET* Endorsed by
EURO BEACHES | BEING THERE
Praia as Catedrais, Galicia, Spain On Galicia’s northern shore is one of Spain’s most eye-catching beaches, even if its beauty only becomes apparent at low tide. This is when the Gothic-looking rock arches that line the beach reveal themselves, natural flying buttresses that give the one-anda-half kilometres of beach an air of stunning majesty. As the tide comes in the rock cathedrals that give the beach its local name (its actual name is Praia de Aguas Santas, or Beach of the Holy Waters) and their sandy floor are swallowed whole by the turquoise sea and disappear until the following day. This is the ideal time to explore the caves and grottoes carved into the 30-metre-high cliffs, where you’ll find shallow rock pools that are perfect for wading. The beach was declared a national monument by the Galician government. You can fly into Santiago de Compostela, in southwestern Galicia.
Gwenver Beach, Cornwall, UK Cornwall has more than 400 beaches and a healthy, ongoing debate about which one is best. Many a local’s favourite is Gwenver, at the northern end of Sennen Cove and joined at low tide to Sennen Beach. It’s at the base of steep granite cliffs and the slightly difficult access (a tricky path) means that it never gets too crowded. Once on the sandy stretch that’s about 150 metres long – its name thought to derive from Guinevere, King Arthur's wife – enjoy this Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (official).
Calanque d’En Vau in Cassis, France The coastline immediately south of Marseille is lined with calanques, a series of fjord-like inlets carved into the white limestone cliffs. The most beautiful of them is the Calanque d’En Vau, about an hour’s walk west of Cassis: you’ll need a decent pair of hiking boots to get here, but your reward is a superb, V-shaped shingle beach lapped by Mediterranean waters which, depending on the light, are either a deep emerald green or a shimmering turquoise. The cliffs that surround you are a favourite with rock climbers; they’ll shield you from even the tiniest gust of wind but also, depending on the time of day, the sun. The alternative way to get here is by boat: there are services along the coast that drop anchor at the mouth of the calanque and then you swim to the beach – you won’t swim in clearer waters anywhere.
EURO BEACHES | BEING THERE
Dog’s Bay Beach, Connemara, Ireland The filigree Irish coastline is dotted with beautiful beaches but few are quite as eye-catching as Dog’s Bay, about three kilometres outside the fishing village of Roundstone, on the road to Clifden. It’s a big beach – just over one-and-ahalf kilometres long – stretched out in a horseshoe shape along the western edge of the peninsula. If it wasn’t for the weather, you’d think you were in the Caribbean: the sand is a brilliant
white because it’s made entirely of tiny fragments of seashells rather than the crushed limestone of other western beaches. The waters are crystal clear and perfect for swimming, as the bay is sheltered from the stronger currents by the protective wrap of the headland. And, in the unlikely event Dog’s Bay isn’t to your liking, the eastern side of the peninsula is home to Gurteen Beach, another white sand beauty with the same clear waters.
AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO FARO UP TO THREE TIMES DAILY, FROM CORK DAILY AND FROM SHANNON THREE TIMES PER WEEK; FROM DUBLIN TO SANTIAGO DI COMPOSTELA FOUR TIMES PER WEEK; FROM DUBLIN TO MARSEILLES FOUR TIMES PER WEEK; FROM DUBLIN TO NEWQUAY FIVE TIMES PER WEEK; FROM DUBLIN TO CATANIA TWICE A WEEK; AND FROM DUBLIN TO AGADIR ONCE A WEEK.
EXPERIENCE EXTRAORDINARY THIS JULY www.giaf.ie / +353 91 566 577
MASTERCLASS | WHISKEY MAKING
The Spirit of Dingle
Eleanor Costello gets a first-hand glimpse of what it takes to make whiskey on Kerry’s glorious coast. he sound of glass bottles hitting off each other chimes from the back of the car as the manager of the Dingle Distillery, Mary Ferriter, expertly manoeuvres around the twists of the Conor Pass. Personal deliveries and collections of empty containers, by the self-titled “Wild Atlantic Woman”, exemplify the many extra miles taken by this business. “It’s real,” she says simply, of the employees’ authenticity and passion as the driving force behind the brand. I’m in Kerry for the first time in years, and, as a sporadic whiskey drinker, feeling somewhat out of my depth as a student at the distillery’s own school. There’s no classroom or modern visitor centre here; I’m right in the middle of the noise and aroma of the working distillery. Our lessons are lead by Michael Walsh (one of their main distillers) and John Moriarty (their resident whiskey expert), whose love of the
BILL LIN NA
CLASS ACT spirit is infectious. Getting in the way of the distillers at work, we were able to stick our nose right in the Mash Tun (where the main barley mix is blended), and stir the evolving yeast in ourselves, experiencing the real toil that goes into making it. We take a short break and are treated to the idyllic scene of a woman swimming her horse in the deep Dingle waters below the distillery – a moment you couldn’t choreograph – before we’re treated to a vodka and gin masterclass. These spirits are less complicated to make than whiskey and Dingle Distillery is already winning global fans with both of its versions, while the first Dingle
The next Whiskey School is on August 12-13, priced at €450. And for a less intensive experience, you can join a tour at €10 per person. (086 829 9944; dingledistillery.ie)
Our student sipper Eleanor, gets to grips with the whiskey-making process, bottom left. Below, where the magic happens at the Dingle Distillery.
Whiskey won’t be released until 2016. Allegedly women have a more subtle nose, which we put to the test. Sadly, I discover I can’t tell my cut grass from my vanilla and have to be satisfied with my ability to imbibe rather than discern. Surrounded by filled barrels marked with names of the distillery’s founding fathers (it was set up in 2012 with more than 500 benefactors), we get to sample the maturing spirit along with other familiar brands. During tasting, we’re reminded that it’s a personal experience; that not everything will appeal to all and the Dingle-native employees crowd around to watch our faces as we taste a particularly peaty Lagavulin. Day two and we’re back in the classroom, learning about the distilling process. We get to see, smell, and taste the unmatured spirit from the pot stills. We fill and mark our own barrels. I sign and date the cask in chalk and tell them I’ll be back to check up on it, in three years, when it’s legally the real thing. My time at the distillery has made me feel like part of something exciting – Mary hugs me goodbye, saying I’m now “part of the family”. I’m bound to impress my peers at the pub with my new-found whiskey trivia. And, failing that, I can always buy a round of Dingle Gin and let the taste do the talking.
Oliver St JOhn
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BEING THERE | EDINBURGH
48 Hours Around
Edinburgh is fun, especially in festival season, but head north to the kingdom of Fife and you’ll find plenty more to amuse the bouche. Frances Power takes the high road.
Don’t miss …
HORSE POWER The Kelpies rear up out of the landscape about 20 miles outside Edinburgh like huge guardians of the Forth and Clyde canal. Based on two real live Clydesdales, Duke and Baron, and fashioned out of thousands of plates of steel by Glasgow artist Andy Scott, the sculptures pay tribute to both the history of the working horse and the lost industries of these parts. But they also take in a Celtic myth – kelpies are shape-shifters found in lochs and pools that delight in drowning their riders. So stick to the tour inside the kelpies, or admire from a distance at night when they are lit up and glorious. (Helix Park, Falkirk; thehelix.co.uk)
CHILLING SIGHT Underneath an innocent-looking farmhouse lies an eerie reminder of the Cold War. A tunnel leads 30 metres underground to The Secret Bunker, a command centre and broadcasting studio with dormitories large enough to house 300 military and government personnel in case of a nuclear strike. Very 007-ish and strangely fascinating. (Crown Buildings, Troywood, St Andrews, +44 1333 310 301; secretbunker.co.uk)
Across the Firth of Forth, just an hour’s drive north of Edinburgh, the land is rolling, green and pleasant, full of historical sites and quaint seaside villages. Add artisan goodies and you get a spot to feast both eyes and stomach.
BLAST FROM THE PAST There are layers of history to peel back in pretty St Andrews – epicentre of the Reformation (John Knox first preached here) and boasting many martyrs. It is home to the ruins of a splendiferous Roman Catholic Cathedral, which sits at the top of the A-shaped complex of wide streets and these days makes a peaceful place to spread your picnic rug and enjoy the sea view.
Clockwise from left, the rolling kingdom of Fife; the ruins of St Andrew’s Cathedral; the monumental Kelpies.
SPIRIT GUIDE Local golf caddie Douglas Clement was the driving force behind the Kingsbarns Whisky Distillery & Visitor Centre, a former 18th-century farmstead that has been transformed into a whisky distillery – though you’ll have to wait ten years to taste their first dram. The kilted Douglas leads fascinating tours around the plant, as well as tastings of the gold stuff. (East Newhall Farm, Kingsbarns, +44 1333 451 300; kingsbarnsdistillery.com)
Shop at … SUGAR HIGH The Iain Burnett Highland Chocolatier gourmet shop – all elegant greys and reds – is like a chocolate box itself. Browse the velvet truffle range or treat yourself to a chocolate espresso or hot velvet chocolate shot at the bar. (145 South Street, St Andrews, +44 7891 711 672; highlandchocolatier.com) ART AND CRAFT In August each year, the pretty fishing village of Pittenweem comes over all arty as houses, shops and garages turn into pop-up galleries where you can hunt down new talent (August 1-9; Above left, sweet treats at Iain Burnett Highland Chocolatier. Left, Cambo House, whose glamping tents were inspired by the local snowdrops.
Sleep at … FOODIE The Peat Inn is a tempting Michelin star stop – with accommodation – just six miles from St Andrews. Run by food columnist and chef Geoffrey Smeddle and his wife Katherine, it plunders local farms, artisan producers and the fish-rich waters for fine raw ingredients. Double room £225 B&B (near St Andrews, +44 1334 840 206; thepeatinn.co.uk) GLAMP The gardens at Cambo House are famous for their show of snowdrops, so famous that when they added a glampsite, the tents were designed to match. Stay here and you can wander the prairie garden or
Best fish‘n’chips? Anstruther Fish Bar (4244 Shore Street, Anstruther; anstrutherfishbar.co.uk). For more info on Year of Food and Drink in Scotland – or for accommodation – see VisitScotland.com
stroll through the walled garden that groans with fruit-laden trees. Glamping from £185 for three-night weekend, full week, £295; B&B £13.50pp extra; May to October. (Kingsbarns, St Andrews, +44 1333 450 054; camboestate.com) BUDGET The Victorian Spindrift Guest House in the hamlet of Anstruther was once the home of a tea clipper captain and is said to have at least one (friendly) ghost. It also serves up fine food and a good line in banter. Rooms from £90 B&B. (Pittenweem Road, Anstruther, +44 1333 310 573; thespindrift.co.uk)
pittenweemartsfestival.co.uk). Refuel at the Cocoa Tree Café with a chocolate espresso and pick up the key to a seventhcentury Christian shrine that later became a smuggler’s cave. (Cocoa Tree Café, 9 High Street, Pittenweem, +44 1333 311 495; pittenweemchocolate.co.uk) DESIGN At Tom Pigeon, a design studio in an old fisherman’s loft in Cellardyke, geometric jewellery and sharply designed prints and cards make the perfect take-home present. (St Anns, Fowler Street, Cellardyke, +44 7816 180 259; tompigeon.com)
Eat at … ARTISAN Will Docker, MD at Balgove Larder trained at Ballymaloe in Co Cork and you’ll see that love of good ingredients – from rabbit, pheasant, deer and home-grown beef to veg and artisan cheeses – here. Check out the pop-up Steak Barn, where on summer nights they barbecue the finest meat and serve it al fresco. (Strathtyrum, St Andrews, +44 1334 898 145; balgove.com) SINFUL Stop off for tea and cake (fudge doughnut anyone?) at Fisher & Donaldson, official suppliers to Her Majesty. (Ceres Road, Cupar, +44 1334 652 551 or 13 Church Street, St Andrews, +44 1334 472 201; fisheranddonaldson.com) REGAL Northpoint Café is the coffee shop where Will & Kate had their first date. Jammed with students, it serves great breakfast and lunch. (24 North Street, St Andrews) FUN Forgan’s is a hiply decorated former golf club factory (unisex loos ahoy) where haggis balls are followed by a high-kicking ceilí at weekends. (110 Market Street, St Andrews, +44 1334 466 973; forgansstandrews.co.uk) AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN AND CORK TO EDINBURGH DAILY.
Molly Malone Statue opposite O’Neill’s The Head Chef Dave carving from a selection of freshly roasted meats at the Carvery
Our fully-refurbished Roof-Top Beer Garden & Smoking Area
Conveniently set in the heart of the city, around the corner fromTrinity College, Grafton Street and across the road from the Molly Malone Statue, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs.Trade has flourished here uninterrupted for over 300 years. When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies. To make your visit enjoyable we offer you ... ●
Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous Carvery serving only the finest Irish Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, Lonely Planet rate us as one of the Top 5 Places to find ´Real Irish food in Dublin´
Irish Music and Traditional Irish Dancing 7 nights-a-week
Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area
Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on draught in Ireland, representing as many of the local Craft Breweries as possible, rotating and guesting beers
Pour Your Own Pint tables
Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers
For the whiskey connoisseur there’s our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys and malts
HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan with major international league games.
Our‘Really Good’Full Irish Breakfast can’t be beaten for quality and value. 11 items plus tea/coffee and toast, pictured below.
‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast only
*This special offer offer is available Mon-Fri only, 8am-11.30am. Our‘Really Our ‘Really Good’Breakfast Good’ Breakfast Menu is served 7 days a week.
Music and Dancing 7 nights
M.J. O’Neill Suffolk Street, Dublin 2 Tel. 01 679 3656 www.oneillsbar.com
Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796
“Top 5 places to ﬁnd Real Irish Food in Dublin”
If you’ve nerves of steel, drive to MASCA . The village clings to a valley with an almost sheer drop to the sea. Most hotels can organise a Masca Trail – check any of the tourist information or excursion offices. Once there, admire the views, browse the few shops, have a drink and tapas, or take a guided walk from the valley to the sea where a boat waits to pick you up.
AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO
Tenerife Cliodna O’Flynn shows us why she swapped Dublin for Tenerife …
There are many magical places to visit from Tenerife, one of which is LA GOMERA, also known as the “Emerald Isle”. Forty minutes by ferry from Los Cristianos (for tickets: fredolsen.es or navieraarmas.com), it boasts incredible views of MOUNT TEIDE, below, the highest mountain in Spain. Sometimes snow-covered, it’s visible from almost all parts of the coastline and a reminder that there’s more to Tenerife than sea and sand. HELLOCANARYISLAND.COM
Santa Cruz is Tenerife’s capital, and it offers a great combination of shopping and family-based activities. The AUDITORIO DE TENERIFE is also worth a look, it being designed by Spanish architect Calatrava, who’s also responsible for Dublin’s Samuel Beckett and James Joyce bridges. Inside, the Tenerife Symphony Orchestra can toot a good tune – and, of course, music needs no translation. (auditoriodetenerife.com)
ADEJE is where I chose to live and love. My barrio is Callao Salvaje, a coastal village, above, with a good selection of restaurants. Personal favourites: El Rincon Criollo (+34 922 740 861) where Cuban-style food is cheap and the atmosphere relaxed; for traditional Canarian food, try the goat stew at Bodegon Canario (Centro Commercial Esmeralda, Local 20, Callao Salvaje) and for a great lunch, Oasis (Calle Grande 5, Adeje, +34 922 780 827) has the best Canarian chicken in the world.they serve, with fresh salad and chips, at a great price.
IFONCHE has the most amazing mountain rambles where, according to my daughter, some of “the most inhabited fairy caves on Tenerife”, left, are located. It is also home to one of my favourites: RESTAURANTE HERMANO PEDRO where rabbit and goat vie for attention on the menu – get there early on Sundays if you want a table. (Carretera General Ifonche; +34 922 725 022).
As with many beach resorts, there are far too many inauthentic Irish bars south of the island. One of the best, genuine Irish drinking holes though is the DÁIL FOUNTAIN BAR in Los Cristianos, which shows GAA football and hurling at the weekend. (Calle Paloma 10; dailfountainbartenerife.com)
More than anyone the Spanish can mix religion and fun, and local ROMERIAS (street processions) are just that. Each town holds these street parties, with decorated carts parading up the main street and people in local dress offering onlookers tastes of local produce, paella, food, wine, gofio (local toasted cereal).
Adeje town is an attractive combination of new and old architecture – the Convento de San Francisco and the Santa Ursula church book-end the award winning PLAZA DE ESPAÑA above, which provides the stage for so many events. It also hosts a farmers market every weekend from 8am to 2pm, where you’ll find the best in local veg, fruit, bread, cakes and pastries, awardwinning cheeses and wines.
Once the island capital before a volcanic eruption in 1706, GARACHICO boasts excellent coastal restaurants and hotels. A former mansion, LA QUINTA ROJA is rather special. (+34 922 133 377; quintaroja.com).
Fun for families: LORO PARQUE left, in the north, and SIAM PARK and AQUALAND in the south are excellent but busy. A smaller attraction is PUEBLO CHICO (Camino Cruz de Los Martillos 62, La Orotava; pueblochico. com), a delightfully designed Canary Islands in miniature.
ayofa – up from Los , LA ESTANCIA, in Ch If you’re into fine dining restored plantation restaurant; a beautifully Cristianos – is a classy cuisine. (Urb. Las ean ran ter edi ng, French-M house with award-winni ; laestancia.com) 359 Armiche 3, +34 922 729 Aguilas del Teide, Calle
Dublin-born Cliodna is an ex-RTÉ news ws editor and radio producer. She moved to Tenerife in 1999 for what was supposed to be a year, and never left. She worked as an editor for Island Connections, an English language newspaper, before moving to the communications department of Adeje council. In addition, she writes a blog (englishtimeadeje. adej com) and hosts a radio programme, English Time, on Radio Sur Adeje. She’s also a mother to a nine-year-old who loves Canarian weather – and Irish Christmases.
More about Cliodna
AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO TENERIFE FOUR TIMES PER WEEK.
Irelands Oldest Pub EST 1198
TRADITIONAL FOOD SERVED ALL DAY LIVE IRISH MUSIC NIGHTLY SUNDAY MUSIC SESSION 3.30-6.30pm
20 Bridge Street Lower, Dublin 8 10 minute walk from Guinness Store House 2 minute walk from Christchurch
Tel : +353 1 6795186 www.brazenhead.com
BEING THERE | NANTES
Make Time For … JDO BILLAUD
Compiled by Daragh Reddin
SCI-FI Launched in 2007, Les Machines de l’Île is a “menagerie” located on a small
ON TREND Okko Hotel Nantes Château The flagship venture of France’s newest four-star hotel chain is this tastefully decked-out establishment in the heart of the city. A less-is-more aesthetic, with a vaguely industrial finish, ensures every corner of Okko cries out to be Instagrammed. The atmosphere, nonetheless, is decidedly casual. nanteschateau. okkohotels.com
GRAND Radisson Blu The city’s largest hotel opened in late 2012, in the vast, 19th-century Palais de Justice. It’s hard to imagine a more extreme transformation from a forbidding courthouse to an opulent pleasure dome, replete with an excellent spa. Passage Pommeraye, Theatre Graslin and the Natural History Museum of Nantes are all within walking distance. radissonblu.com
SHOPPING A 19th-century, multilevel shopping emporium, Passage Pommeraye is so much more than just a mecca to consumerism. The sheer scale of its design and architecture – right down to the gas-lamp sporting marble cherubs that illuminate its main walkway – is extraordinary. A recent renovation makes it a must. passagepommeraye.fr
3 Arty Stays …
BOHEMIAN Hotel Pommeraye This two-star boutique hotel punches well above its rating, offering exceptionally good value and surprisingly spacious rooms. Engaging and quirky artworks are changed regularly; while the management’s commitment to nurturing talent is evinced by the fact that each year a local artist is invited to develop a project within the hotel. hotelpommeraye.com
TO TABLES France’s sixth largest city was once known as TOP “N “Nantes the Grey” due to rampant industrialisation. It has sinc sloughed off that epithet thanks, in no small part, to since its embrace of the visual arts and a vibrant culinary scene. La year, IT consultant-turned-chef Dominic Quirke Last op opened excellent “neo-bistro” Pickles (pickles-restaurant. co in Rue Du Marais, to fuse local produce with ideas com) gar garnered from his global travels. For an authentic treat, be sure to try a crêpe at Heb Ken (heb-ken.fr), where visitors deliberate over the choice of savoury or sweet buckwheat pancakes. Arguably Nantes’ most august ins institution, Brasserie La Cigale (lacigale.com), left, has da li diners din with its it Art Nouveau-styled mosaics and frescoes since 1895. been dazzling Its classic French fare is faultlessly executed and, to accommodate sophisticates seeking refreshments after attending the theatre opposite, is served until midnight.
island in the Loire featuring animatronic creations designed as an homage to author Jules Vernes who was born in Nantes. Channel your inner mahout and ride the spectacular 45-tonne mechanical Grand Elephant around which the exhibition is centred. lesmachines-nantes.fr
HISTORY A former capital of Brittany, Nantes’ standing as a city of great historical importance is nowhere more evident than the Castle of the Dukes of Brittany, with its moat, towers and buildings dating back to the 15th century. Its museum provides a fascinating overview of the city’s history through some 850 exhibits. chateaunantes.fr
Enjoy the Waterford Crystal Factory Experience. Book your tour online today.
To book your factory tour visit waterfordvisitorcentre.com the largest collection of Waterford Crystal in the world or phone +353 (0)51 317000
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Traditional musicians every night Craft Beer & Whiskey tasting anytime Historic Pub in Irelands Oldest City Seafood Restaurant & Gastrobar Panoramic Alfresco Rooftop Terrace
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On Business Barcelona Rising This month, we suss out the startup scene in Barcelona, buzzy Manchester, the best networking events and much more ...
Making travel work for you
Three Dates for the Diary …
Privacy in a Connected World, St John’s College, Cambridge, UK, July 6-8 Privacy and personal data are hot topics for all e-commerce businesses. This conference at St John’s College focuses on the best ways to manage the flow of personal data between countries and the corporate world. Topics include tracking, wearable tech, drones, big data and practical privacy management. privacylaws.com
Digital Publishing Innovation Summit, New York, July 16-17 Digital publishing stalwarts including vanityfair.com, The Huffington Post and hearst.com are among the participants at this “Monetizing Your Content Through New Initiatives” themed event at The Pierre hotel on Fifth Avenue. More than 30 speakers will offer expert views on maximising your online audience, mobile opportunities and how to make money through evolving media platforms. theinnovationenterprise.com
Asia Business Week, Dublin & Cork, July 8-14 With two-way trade between Ireland and China estimated at more than €8 billion, it makes sense that Asia Business Week kicks off with the Ireland-China Business Summit, a networking shindig covering areas of trade, agritech, science, technology and more. Other notable events include a Financial Services Skills forum at the IFSC on July 9 and the Cork China Business Summit on July 13. asiabusinessweek.ie
Running a business and staying productive while you’re regularly on the move isn’t easy, but these useful business apps help you stay ahead of the game … BIZ CARDS Camcard Good oldfashioned networking is still an essential part of business but gone are the days of collecting paper cards on your travels. With CamCard you can scan cards or exchange them electronically and the app stores the details to your phone, making it easy to get in touch later. Free on iOS and Android. camcard.com
TEAM CHAT Slack A godsend for remote teamwork, Slack provides instantly searchable team communication wherever you are, as well as access to all your team’s files, real-time messaging, group chats and more, and it’s free for an unlimited number of users. Free on Android and iOS. slack.com
NUMBER CRUNCHING QuickBooks Online Stay on top of the company accounts and paper trail with this accountancy app that allows you to create custom invoices, keep track of receipts so you can organise expenses on the go and work on profit and loss, and balance sheet reports, wherever you are. Free on Android and iOS. intuit.com
Ever been standing at the check-in desk/passport control, having forgotten in which compartment or pocket you put your tickets/ ID/wallet? No such problems with the sleek and Booqpad for iPad Air 2, which also has space for cards, cash and tickets. Booqpad, £55 from booq.co.uk
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©Steljes 2015. Details subject to change without notice. SMART Board, SMART taglines are trademarks or registered trademarks of SMART Technologies in the U.S. and/or other countries. Steljes Limited is the authorised distributor of SMART Technologies in the UK, Ireland, Adriatics and Hungary. E&OE. SJ88497
Room with a View If you’re in town during the Manchester International Festival (July 2-19; mif.co.uk), check out our sleeping and snacking quide. The Light ApartHotel is in Manchester’s quirky Northern Quarter, where most restaurants and bars do not disappoint – and nor does this sleek bolthole. Its towering presence overlooks the city, the massive Arndale shopping centre a mere Eccles cake’s throw away. Location-wise, you couldn’t ask for more. When night falls, the entire city lights up, and that evening glass of wine has an unrivalled backdrop – make sure to book a two-bedroom apartment near the top, or a penthouse suite, for the full, glamorous effect. The best part is arguably the fully-equipped kitchen. Hosting a two-course evening meal is easier than at home, what with top-of-the-range facilities for even the most microwave-dependent
traveller. The open-plan dining and living area can double as a meeting space, accommodate a corporate party, or be a place to relax away from the energising bustle. With free Wi-Fi, comfortable surroundings, gym access, discounts with a neighbouring spa, the lovely family-run French
The vast penthouse at Light ApartHotel has an impressive bird’s-eye view of Manchester.
restaurant 63 Degrees, and complimentary Grab‘n’Go continental breakfasts every morning, The Light ApartHotel makes the most sense for business travellers looking to be blindingly impressed. Studios from £79. (20 Church Street, +44 161 839 4848; thelight.co.uk)
4 North-Western Noshes
Manchester Art Gallery Combine your lunchtime feed with some Victorian masterpieces. This public art gallery ticks all the boxes for a hearty, no-fuss lunch: homemade soups and crusty sandwiches, and there’s even a local craft brew on offer. (Mosley Street, +44 161 235 8888; manchestergalleries.org)
SuperStore On street level is a grocery store and upstairs a cracking bar/eatery. Breakfast, lunch and dinners are made from scratch, from a full English to small plates to jaw-breaking burgers to inventive evening meals (coffee-rubbed venison, anyone?). (Tib Street, Northern Quarter, +44 161 834 3303; superstore-manchester.co.uk)
Bakerie A buzzy spot subtitled “Bread and Wine”. Sharing platters are great for groups, and fresh bread is baked on site daily. It also has a little brother next-door – Pie & Ale, which sells exactly that, served with mash, fresh peas and gravy, and much more besides. (45 Lever Street, Northern Quarter, +44 161 236 9014; bakeriemcr.com)
Teacup Kitchen Owned by local DJ, Mr Scruff, TK serves tasty breakfasts (sample dish: smoky bacon beans on toast), formidable lunches and dinners (hello rum ribs!), and its Rainbow Battenberg has probably been Instagrammed more times than the Etihad Stadium. (55 Thomas Street, +44 161 832 3233; teacupandcakes.com)
Best Hotel Restaurant in Ireland 2015
Indulge yourself in the delights of Adare Manor Experience fine-dining at its very best in The Oakroom, Adare Manor’s award-winning restaurant. This intimate, candlelit space, overlooking the majestic River Maigue, is one of the most enchanting dinner settings in the country. Dishes and flavours change with the seasons; concentrating on the finest of locally sourced produce, which are complemented by a vast selection of wines from the Manor’s Cellar.
Then retire to Adare Manor’s elegant bedrooms for an oasis of relaxation and peace. Each room is individually designed, many featuring little details lovingly added by Lord and Lady Dunraven in the 1800’s, such as carved headboards, expansive adjoining bathrooms, original fireplaces and stunning river or garden views. Make your next getaway one to remember. Experience an equisite, gastronomic escape at Adare Manor.
BUSINESS | TRAVEL
Smart Traveller LONDON
BEST BUSINESS HOTELS IN GALWAY
Managing partner of advertising agency KesselsKramer, Engin Celikbas flies weekly between offices in Amsterdam, London and LA. He tells Lisa Hughes why his favourite city is the UK’s capital.
London is a great city to walk around, and I average about 7.5km walking per day when I’m there, according to my trusty Moves app (moves-app.com). Best business hotel … citizenM (20 Lavington Street, +44 20 3519 1680; citizenm.com) is fantastic – not only because lp create it! It offers we helped affor affordable luxury and the conference rooms have everything you ne need for meetings. An Another favourite is th the Ace Hotel (100 Sh Shoreditch High Street, +4 +44 20 7613 9800; ac acehotel.com), which ha has impressive rooms and is very close to ythin including our office. everything, Essential travel apps … I can’t imagine travelling without the many apps that make not only my life easier but also that of my colleagues who help me organise my travel. I wouldn’t know what to do without Passbook (imore.com/passbook) for keeping all my boarding passes and tickets in one place, and WorldMate (worldmate. com) for planning and deals. If you’re doing business here for the first time … Avoid the overpriced central London hotels. The South Bank is developing rapidly and, as a result, there are some great places to stay, eat and drink on the cheap popping up.”
ss “London is great for business because … It gives us access to an amazing talent pool, which is crucial for our company. WiFi is pretty much everywhere and it’s free for the most part. London's creative energy is terrific, but also exhausting, so it’s nice to combine it with my home in Amsterdam. For a very ‘London’ business lunch … Ruby Restaurant (8-9 Hoxton Square, +44 20 3487 0277; ruby-it.com) serves amazing Italian fare. I love their pasta dishes and it’s a low key, affordable place. Another quality restaurant is the Rivington Grill (28-30 Rivington Street, +44 20 7729 7053; rivingtonshoreditch. co.uk), which offers British cuisine at its best – although my favourite dish is their hamburger. Getting around … You can’t beat the London Underground for e fast and inexpensive connections – with the odd hike between stations and destinations, that is.
Top, London has an extensive talent pool, which is crucial for creative companies, says Engin Celikbas, above.
“I can’t travel without … My Côte&Ciel Cô rucksack, as it’s smart sm looking and functional enough en to let me move through throu airports and train stations stat easily.” €255, for stockists, stoc visit coteetciel.com
RADISSON BLU HOTEL & SPA Sleek yet cheery, the Radisson can host up to 1,000 delegates in its mutlifarious meeting rooms, and even offers “Brain Food” menus (low-fat, low-sugar) for optimum think-tanking. Private barbecues also make for nifty staff away-days. (Lough Atalia Road; radissonhotelgalway.com)
PARK HOUSE HOTEL & RESTAURANT This smart, four-star is well situated and has all the creature comforts any blow-in delegate could wish for, from free Wi-Fi to in-room AVEDA toiletries to fine cuisine. Corporate rates are also available, which includes free parking and breakfast. (Forster Street, Eyre Square; parkhousehotel.ie)
HOTEL MEYRICK This handsome heritage property is in a prime spot overlooking Eyre Square, with easy access trainsport links. It has a variety of conference and meeting rooms, while VIP groups can exclusively hire the whole of level five. Also, stressed execs can let off steam in the gym and/or spa. (Eyre Square; hotelmeyrick.ie)
Partnering to provide better healthcare
Hermitage Medical Clinic - Ireland’s ﬁrst and only Cyberknife Centre For more information Visit our website www.hermitageclinic.ie or Call our CyberKnife Centre on 00 353 1 6459045 “We at the Hermitage Medical Clinic are delighted with the quality of work and professional service delivered by BAM Specialist Works” Eamonn Fitzgerald, Chief Executive
www.bamireland.ie (Specialist Works)
SUN, SEA AND BUSINESS Despite Spain’s recent economic struggles, Barcelona is attracting its fair share of budding entrepreneurs. Trevor Baker finds out just what’s so alluring about Catalonia’s capital. Photographs by Jean-Marc Joseph.
rom the windows of the World Trade Center in Barcelona, you can look out over the mock battleship styling of Roman Abramovich’s multi-million euro yacht moored directly below in the large port. The presence of the billionaire Chelsea FC owner is one symbol of how this city has changed in the last 25 years. Before the Olympics came here in 1992 it was just another Mediterranean city, with a steadily increasing tourist trade and a lot of struggling industry. After the Olympics it became, first, the coolest city on the Mediterranean, then a mass tourism destination second only to Paris and London in Europe. Now it’s arguably one of the continent’s genuine “world cities”. Yet, even more than tourism and the fickle attention of the super-rich, it’s the presence of companies such as eDreams ODIGEO (edreams.com) that are most important for the future of
the city. As the largest e-commerce site in Europe, employing more than 900 people in Barcelona alone, it’s a significant presence here, even if its official HQ is in Luxembourg. Telecommunications, e-commerce, digital enterprise and startups of all kinds are central to Barcelona’s vision of how it’s going to shake off the economic crisis and reduce its dependence on tourism. Yet eDreams was born in the US, at Stanford University, when Californian James Hare and Spanish former aerospace engineer Javier Pérez-Tenessa de Block – ex-colleagues from management consultants McKinsey – realised how the internet would revolutionise travel. It was only later that they decided Barcelona should be their home. If the city is really going to become southern Europe’s tech-hub, it will have to provide an eco-system where companies can grow from the first spark of an idea, all the way up to behemoths such as
eDreams. The company’s director of business development, Pablo de Porcioles, is optimistic. “In Barcelona there is a huge number of tech companies,” he says. “Airbnb (airbnb.com) has a base in Barcelona, and Booking.com moved here last year. We have a high quality of life, good communications. It’s a very dynamic city with highly qualified people.” There are major companies that have grown up here. Softonic (en.softonic.com), now one of the world’s biggest download portals with 125 million users a month, was founded in the city way
back in 1997, as part of the final-year project of Barcelona’s Ramon Llull University student Tomás Diago. Another huge name in Barcelona is online retail outlet Privalia (privalia. com), founded after Barcelona natives Lucas Carne and Jose-Manuel Villanueva spotted a niche in the market for a company who could connect fashion bargain hunters with designers looking to shift excess stock. Yet not everything is perfect. Spain still has one of the highest unemployment rates in Europe and there are frequent complaints about bureaucracy. “It’s still complicated to open a new company in Spain. In the UK or Germany it takes a few hours. In Spain it takes days and days,”
says de Porcioles. “But things have changed. Twenty years ago people wanted to be funcionarios (public sector workers with fixed contracts) but now they’ve travelled more, they’re more cultured and they’ve seen new initiatives.” There is a new spirit of entrepreneurship in the city. One of the latest companies trying to change the way that the travel industry works is ByHours.com. It connects hotels with travellers who want to book by the hour, rather than for a whole night’s stay, specifically focusing on business people, rather than the more traditional market of amorous couples. “In every other area the travel sector has changed and evolved
hugely but in the area of hotels it’s barely changed at all,” says CEO Christian Rodriguez. “It’s still hugely conservative. We want to change that.” He says that things in Barcelona are very different now to the way they were even ten years ago. Now 31, he started his first serious business when he was just 19 and has an office down a charming alley in the Old Town, north of the Gothic Quarter. “It was very unusual then to be so young and start up your own company,” he says. “You’d be on the front page of the newspaper. Now it’s more common. The culture has changed completely.”
The 38-storey Torre Agbar sits at the gateway to Barcelona’s tech hub.
BUSINESS | BARCELONA
This is partly because, despite its inherent risks, entrepreneurship has become less of an adventure and more of a necessity for many of the current generation of graduates in Spain, who have found themselves locked out of the traditional professions in a time of high unemployment. The jobs that are available are also much less secure. “Ten years ago I had a lot of friends whose goal was to work for a multinational,” says Rodriguez. “Now I can sit down with somebody who works for a multinational and say, ‘who has more risk, you or me?’ It’s the same for both of us. If you work for a multinational you can be out the door in ten minutes.” This reality has long been recognised by the local government. They’ve attempted to provide their own support for entrepreneurs with the development of a specialised tech-hub called 22@ in the Poblenou area of the city, north east of the centre, where planning regulations have been relaxed for knowledge-based businesses, new housing has been subsidised and startups are supported with publicly funded incubators. The Poblenou area used to be known as “Catalonia’s Manchester”, for its textile factories, but now its mixture of warehouses, Art Nouveau buildings and gleaming new offices are host to thousands of workers. An increasing number of bars and restaurants are moving into the area, such as the vegetarian and macrobiotic Sopa (114 Carrer de Roc Boronat, +34 933 095 676; sopabarcelona.com) as well as new icons: the surging Torre Agbar (211 Avinguda Diagonal, +34 933 422 000; torreagbar.com) set to become a Grand Hyatt Hotel in 2017, and the Media-TIC building (Carrer de Roc Boronat/ Carrer de Sancho de Ávila; 22barcelona.com) with its innovative energy-saving façade. One company which has benefited from all this investment is Slashmedia, the software developers behind the popular DressApp that allows users to store photos of their clothes on a phone and mix and match them to choose what to wear. They started with the publicly funded Barcelona Activa, 132 |
The five-star Grand (barcelonactiva.cat) which customers,” says Avilés. Marina Hotel is on has been kickstarting small “They really help you with the waterfront, and just businesses since 1986. everything you need to start a 15-minute walk from Emilio Avilés, Slashmedia a company. There’s a good La Rambla. Book at CEO, was a computer eco-system for startups, holidayswithaerlingus.com engineer for major companies not just for mobiles but for but now employs almost 50 staff e-commerce and gaming.” in Barcelona, with another office As well as public support, in Madrid and a London launch Barcelona also has its own venture planned for next year. “We were capital firms and angel investors. Above, The Media-TIC born during the economic crisis Among these are the venture capital building with its but for me that was okay,” he says. firm who work from what the Wall energy-saving “During a crisis there are fewer Street Journal called “the coolest façade. competitors. People are too scared office in the world”, Active Venture to start a company and there are Partners (active-vp.com), who have lots of good professionals available. an Art Nouveau rooftop on the During the good times you have famous Passeig de Gràcia. Other to compete to get the best staff but investment firms in Barcelona, such during a crisis it’s easier.”w as Nauta Capital (nautacapital. He says that the support from com), are also behind many startups local government has been crucial. and other enterprises but there is a “Here in Barcelona there’s a lot consensus that major funding is still of help to find investors, to find difficult to find.
Clockwise from bottom left, biking past the Torre Agbar; entrepreneur Christian Rodriguez started his first serious business at age 19; Barcelona’s high quality of life attracts an international crowd; Elisabet Mas, founder of laundry services app WashRocks.
Not far from Slashmedia is another local government supported office space, the Almogàvers Business Factory (165 Carrer dels Almogàvers, +34 934 019 777), its trendy façade plastered with inspirational slogans. Another app, WashRocks, which connects cashrich, time-poor professionals with same-day laundry services from their phone, is grateful for the use of the facilities here. However, founder Elisabet Mas echoes the criticism of many entrepreneurs in Barcelona who say that it’s an easy place to start but not so good for companies that want to grow. “Spanish investors are very cautious,” she says, “they don’t take risks. It’s not like American investors who’ll invest even before the company know how to monetise what they’re doing – a Facebook or a Twitter. It’s really difficult in Spain to get investment if it’s not clear how to monetise the project.” These are the kind of issues being addressed by Josep Piqué, ex-CEO of 22@ who now has a wider brief to manage the economic development strategy of the city. “About €200 million has been invested in the 22@,” he says. “We’ve invested about €20 million, the rest has come from utility companies and European funds. Now every year we receive €20 million in local taxes. We’ve money coming in from 22@ that we can invest in another district.”
He says that there are approximately 1,500 companies based there, which have created 90,000 jobs – 44,600 of them knowledge-based and the rest in service industries. Piqué is a strong believer in the idea that cities, rather than nation states, are best placed to encourage future prosperity. “In Barcelona the leadership came from the city, not the regional or the national government,” he says. “We don’t wait for anybody to decide what we want to be.” Back at the World Trade Centre, Pablo de Porcioles agrees. “We’re not competing against Madrid and Seville,” he says, “we’re competing with London and Silicon Valley. If we want the best engineer, that’s a guy who could also be working for Google, Twitter or Facebook.” And of Barcelona’s secret weapon, he adds: “I’m always travelling to London, Stockholm, Paris, and when I come back I’m always hit by the quality of life that we have here.” Trevor Baker stayed at the Chic & Basic Ramblas hotel, doubles from €99. (7 Passatge de Gutenberg, Barcelona, +34 933 027 111; chicandbasicramblashotel.com) Follow Trevor @MrTrevorBaker AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO BARCELONA TWICE DAILY, AND FROM CORK THREE FLIGHTS PER WEEK.
BUSINESS | TRAVEL
Get your Bearings
WORLD TRADE CENTER It looks a bit like somewhere that 007 would hotdesk from. But it actually houses a convention centre, offices, shops, cafés and restaurants.
Illustrator Graham Corcoran shows us around the business hot spots of Catalonia’s capital.
TORRE AGBAR Urban erections don’t get much more attentiongrabbing than this blue and red 38-storey skyscraper that’s named locally as “El Supositori” (The Suppository).
SOPA Need a break from the luscious chorizo and salchichon? Try this vegetarian and macrobiotic eatery in the emerging Poblenou neighbourhood.
6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT Alex Milton is programme director of Irish Design 2015, a year-long initiative promoting home-grown talent abroad (irishdesign2015. ie). A trained car designer, Milton went on to take a Masters at London’s Central St Martins before being appointed head of design at Dublin’s National College of Art and Design, where he is now a visiting professor. Here, he shares some secrets to success.
I believe that design can transform things for the better. Success has happened as a by-product of pursuing what I believe in. I truly love what I do, so I’m very lucky.
Be prepared to work really hard. Great ideas don’t just arrive from nowhere, they are the result of an intensive process of research and development. Remember that life isn’t necessarily going to follow the path you’d imagined – when I graduated at 23, I certainly didn’t think I would be the programme director for the Year of Irish Design in 2015.
Accept that work and life are interwoven. It’s never really been a question of balancing the two elements, but a journey through a life in design.
Success is down to your team. Managing the people and the systems that enable good design to happen is incredibly complex. For me, design-relevant management skills was an early challenge and is an ongoing process as my role changes and evolves.
Always travel with a notebook. I take them everywhere I go, my Moleskines. The second travel must-have is a good book. On the last trip to New York Design Week I re-read The Memory Palace: A Book of Lost Interiors by Edward Hollis on the flight. My final hand luggage essential is a real guilty pleasure: liquorice.
Design inspiration is all around. What I love about Japan is the contrast in cultures, landscape, architecture, craft, design and cuisine. And the Netherlands continues to be consistently fresh, whether you’re hanging out on Witte de Withstraat in Rotterdam, going to the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, or cycling around The Hague ...
10 YEARS AGO THEY SAID WE WERE CRAZY
BUT WE’VE HAD ENERGY EFFICIENCY AND SUSTAINABLE DESIGN ON OUR MINDS SINCE WE STARTED At the time, our commitment to sustainable, innovative and socially responsible engineering was considered unconventional. Now we're the leaders in these important fields, working on projects including international data centres, healthcare, commercial & office fit-outs, educational and pharma.
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CELEBRATING 10 SUCCESSFUL YEARS IN BUSINESS
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A totally unique theatrical performance telling the story of the Irish from their very beginning to the present “Captivating and Hugely Entertaining”. Experience 9,000 years of Irish cultural triumphs, feel their defiance as they fight against near annihilation and watch them rise up from their cultural ashes... “Deeply Moving”. This innovative production allows the audience to walk through each scene with a mythical guide who tells the 10,000 year story. firstname.lastname@example.org www.storyoftheirish.ie
Location: Smithfield, Dublin 7 Hop On/Off Bus - Jameson Distillery Stop
Show/Tours Start Every 15 Mins Duration 80 Mins
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Flying with Aer Lingus
Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment. Enjoy delicious food, the latest movies, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.
140 Welcome aboard 141 Your comfort and safety 144 Aer Lingus News 156 Flight Connections 160 Our Route Networks 164 Connecting to Wi-Fi Inflight Entertainment 146 Movies to North America 147 Movies from North America 148 Our Classic Movie Selection 151 Television On Demand 154 Radio On Demand 155 Music On Demand
Welcome aboard Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you. After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight. If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know.
h words Useful Iris ses and phra e
m Fáilte Welco ello Dia dhuit H ill Goodbye Slán go fó
Why not try speaking a few words e of the native languag ting visi are while you Ireland!
e o m My nam ...is a inm d you? How are ? ú t á t a s Cona ood ma ith I’m g Tá mé go
eers Sláinte! Ch nk you h agat Tha it a m h ib Go ra se me hscéal Excu it le o m h b Ga
In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your flight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going. Share your photos if you’d like, because we would love to hear from you on Facebook, Twitter and YouTube.
Take a photo and post it to our facebook page. Let us know how you’re enjoying your flight.
Chat to us on Twitter where you’ll also find the latest flight information.
Passengers with wheelchair requirements
A SS IS TA N CE
If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you. u. When contacting us you will need your booking reference number.
Inverness Aberdeen Glasgow
Knock Shannon Kerry
Belfast Isle of Man Dublin
Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester East Midlands
ETA IL S CO N TA CT D
.com nce@aerlingus specialassista 365 011 Ireland (0818) on–Fri 09:00–17:00 M t & Sun 10:00–16:00 Sa nk Holidays 10:00–16:00 Ba 20 21 UK (0871) 718 886 8333 1 53 Europe +3 2 4222 USA (516) 62
What cities do Aer Lingus fly to and connect to?
London (Heathrow) Bristol
View our videos of milestone events, festivals, sponsorships and campaigns.
See page 160 for full route maps
Your comfort and safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times. We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be. In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device.
ARE YOU READY FOR TAKE-OFF AND LANDING?
Is your mobile phone and/or other portable electronic device in 'flight mode'?
Is your seatback fully upright?
Is your armrest down?
Is your tabletop stowed?
Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you?
You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important. Please note that certain devices may not be used.
To use your mobile phone and all other portable electronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to ‘flight mode’ or the ‘flight safe’ setting.
Devices permitted at any time
Devices permitted in flight only*
Devices prohibited at all times
Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.
Laptops, portable CD-players, Mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset. If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff.
Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).**
If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off.
*Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.
Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight. After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach. You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.
On A330 aircraft, to avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network, devices must be switched off flight mode once advised that it is safe to do so by crew.
**Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.
Your comfort and safety A safe flight for everyone It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:
Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew.
Do not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another passenger (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.
Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment.
We also want to make it clear that Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a passenger on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed. Similarly, behaviour or language towards other passengers or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.
Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable and to reduce jet lag.
KEEP MOVING On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.
EAR CARE Cabin pressure changes can be painful particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew.
For your Safety
Fógra Sábhá Pour votre ilteacht Sécur ité Für ihre Siche rheit Para su Segur idad
Safety For your áilteacht Fógra Sábh Sécur ité Pour votre Siche rheit Für ihre Seguridad Para su a Sicurezza Per la vostr
Per la vostra Sicurezza Säker het ombo rd Sikke rhet om bord Sikke rhed om bord Please do
e from Aircra
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Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before take off, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.
ON Airplane Mode
ON Airplane Mode
In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board. These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.
DRINK UP Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.
EYE CARE If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual.
TIME ZONES Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone more quickly.
MARCO PIERRE WHITE STEAKHOUSE & GRILL DUBLIN
DUBLINâ€™S FINEST STEAKHOUSE OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK FOR LUNCH AND DINNER
Saint Patrick's Cathedral Dublin
Open Daily for Visitors www.stpatrickscathedral.ie or call +353 1 4539472 for details
LATE OPENING FRIDAY & SATURDAY 51 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Ph: 0035316771155 Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner email@example.com
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Aer Lingus News As the official airline of Ireland’s Special Olympic Team, Aer Lingus is incredibly proud to be flying the 88 athletes and 40-strong management team to the World Summer Games taking place in Los Angeles this July and August. Team Ireland will receive a super send-off from Dublin Airport when they embark on their outward journey to LA on July 21. The first stage of this trip of a lifetime will see the team spend a few days in the city of Downey, located in sunny southeast Los Angeles County, California, as part of the Special Olympics Host Town programme. On July 25, a spectacular opening ceremony will be staged in the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum with the highly anticipated sporting action commencing the following day. Team Ireland athletes will compete in twelve sports over the course of nine days. The World Summer Games will be one of the largest sporting events in the world this summer with 7,000 athletes, 500,000
LET THE GAMES BEGIN
spectators and 30,000 volunteers taking part. US President Barack Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama are also serving as honorary co-chairs of the Summer Games. Everyone at Aer Lingus would like to wish Team Ireland the very best of luck at this momentous event. We will be cheering on our inspiring athletes every step of the way. Follow the action @SOIreland, and on the Facebook page: /specialolympicsireland.
NYC BRUNCH Aer Lingus launched its new early morning New York service last month. Flights depart Dublin Airport daily, at 7.50am, arriving into John F Kennedy International Airport at 10.20am local time – just in time for guests to enjoy brunch downtown, right. With the addition of the early morning service from Dublin, Aer Lingus now operates up to four flights per day to New York – three daily from Dublin and six flights per week from Shannon. The return flight, EI 102, departs New York at 12 noon arriving into Dublin at 11.40pm, on the same day. As part of the re-launch of its business class service, Aer Lingus
has also opened a new business lounge at John F Kennedy International Airport available, exclusively, to Aer Lingus Business Class customers and Gold Circle members. The lounge offers an oasis of calm within the busy terminal, a business centre with complimentary Wi-Fi and a preflight dining service offering the very best of modern Irish cuisine, to name but some of the benefits. In addition, a new Arrivals lounge: Revival Lounge, has opened at Dublin Airport giving Aer Lingus business guests arriving from North America the opportunity to freshen up before leaving the airport.
Above, Irish captain Robbie Keane turns a training session into a field of dreams for members of Ireland’s Special Olympics 11-a-side football team; right, Ruairi O'Toole shows off his medals.
All About Eve
NEW BOUTIQUE MAGAZINE SUMMER RANGE Shopping takes off this summer as Aer Lingus adds lots of new products to its extensive on-board shopping range at prices up to 50 per cent less than on the high street. The Boutique summer range includes the latest trends and biggest brands, carefully selected by the Aer Lingus Retail team. Highlights include: Egyptian Magic AllPurpose Skin Cream – a cult favourite among
celebrities and beauty editors; the multi-awardwinning Sheer Glo from Irish brand BUFF MakeUp; a Dermalogica Skin Set; and Talika Eyebrow Lipocils, which stimulates eyebrow growth. Stunning new jewellery includes Porcelain Doll Rose Gold Earrings from Dublin-based Harpur de Neve, and a Tipperary Crystal Rose Gold Necklace that is sure to add elegance and style to any outfit. Derek Monahan, Director, IT Service Management, Aer Lingus receives the Citrix Innovation Award from Mark Templeton, CEO, Citrix, at the ceremony in Orlando, Florida.
Innovation Award Aer Lingus has won the prestigious Citrix Innovation Award for its creative use of Citrix solutions. The airline's most notable achievement within this category is the paperless cockpit, which has helped to reduce fuel costs and improve on-time performance. Pilots can now access up-to-date information via an iPad, which means they no longer have to carry bulky flight manuals on-board an aircraft.
Aer Lingus has launched an evening check-in service at Cork Airport, giving guests the option to check in baggage between 4pm-8pm the night before. The service is available exclusively to those travelling between 6am-8am the following morning, allowing guests to effortlessly bypass the morning queues at check-in and make their way through security screening and on to their respective boarding gates, with minimal hassle. The service has proven popular with families travelling with young children. Only one immediate family member needs to check in for a family group, once all tickets, passports and bags are provided together. All other passengers must be present for evening check-in with tickets, passports and baggage. Evening check-in is also available to guests travelling from Dublin Airport.
SAMBO SURPRISE! Few of us wish to trudge through the day without indulging in a delicious coffee or two, and there’s nothing quite like a great in-flight cup of Joe. Subsequently, Aer Lingus is delighted to announce its partnership with Java Republic, ensuring quality coffee on board all short haul flights, priced at €3/£2.30. One of Ireland’s cheeky foodie treasures is the
much-loved crisps sandwich, and passengers can now indulge in nostalgic memories of childhood with this tasty snack: a limited edition Tayto Crisps Sandwich, as part of the Bia menu and available on all short haul flights. Grab yours now and tuck into the taste of home, just as Mr Tayto, Leah and Ryan Douglas were doing at the Tayto sambo’s official launch, above.
Movies Flights to North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight to North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky!
OURLM FI TOP O CE CH I
Comedy The Second Best Exotic Marigold Hotel 122 mins
As the Best Exotic Marigold Hotel has only a single remaining vacancy – posing a rooming predicament for two fresh arrivals – Sonny pursues his expansionist dream of opening a second hotel. Stars Judi Dench, Maggie Smith, Bill Nighy. EN FR DE IT ES
A Most Violent Year
Kingsman: The Secret Service
125 mins An immigrant fights to protect his business and family. Stars Oscar Isaac, Jessica Chastain, David Oyelowo
127 mins A young woman must fight to protect Earth’s inhabitants. Stars Channing Tatum, Mila Kunis, Eddie Redmayne
129 mins A spy organisation recruits a street kid to the agency. Stars Colin Firth, Taron Egerton, Samuel L Jackson
90 mins Earth has been conquered by robots from another galaxy. Stars Gillian Anderson, Ben Kingsley
92 mins A Las Vegas bodyguard gets in trouble with the mob. Stars Jason Statham, Michael Angarano, Dominik García-Lorido
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
100 mins A tale of romance between a small town girl and a senator. Stars Jessica Biel, Raymond L Brown Jr, Jenny Gulley EN
PG13 Parental Guidance
Not suitable for children under 13.
The Wedding Ringer
What We Do In The Shadows
101 mins A socially awkward guy hires a best man for his wedding. Stars Kevin Hart, Josh Gad, Kaley Cuoco-Sweeting
86 mins A group of vampires struggle with modern life. Stars Jemaine Clement, Taika Waititi, Jonathan Brugh
105 mins The classic tale of Cinderella with a modern twist. Stars Lily James, Cate Blanchett, Richard Madden
108 mins A man is selected to participate in an AI experiment. Stars Alicia Vikander, Domhnall Gleeson, Oscar Isaac
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
The Boy Next Door 91 mins A cheated on married woman falls for a younger man. Stars Jennifer Lopez, Ryan Guzman EN
FR DE IT ES
Restricted Not suitable for children under 18. Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español
Movies Flights from North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight from North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky!
OURLM FI TOP O CE CH I
Action American Sniper 132 mins
EN FR DE IT ES
Navy SEAL sniper Chris Kyle’s pinpoint accuracy saves countless lives on the battlefield and turns him into a legend. Back home to his wife and kids after four tours of duty, however, Chris finds that it is the war he can’t leave behind. Stars Bradley Cooper, Sienna Miller, Kyle Gallner.
133 mins A furloughed convict hunts a cyber crime network. Stars Chris Hemsworth, Viola Davis, Wei Tang
120 mins A police robot develops the ability to think and feel. Stars Sharlto Copley, Dev Patel, Hugh Jackman
107 mins A man tries to recover stolen paintings. Stars Johnny Depp, Gwyneth Paltrow, Ewan McGregor
106 mins A film about the awakening of painter Margaret Keane. Stars Amy Adams, Christoph Waltz, Krysten Ritter
105 mins A con man has his plans derailed by a femme fatale. Stars Will Smith, Margot Robbie, Rodrigo Santoro
119 mins UK gay activists help miners during a strike in 1984. Stars Bill Nighy, Imelda Staunton, Dominic West
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
PG13 Parental Guidance
Not suitable for children under 13.
Roald Dahl’s Esio Trot
88 mins A retired bachelor has a thing for his neighbour. Stars Dustin Hoffman, James Corden, Richard Cordery EN
103 mins A likable guy pursues his office crush. Stars Ryan Reynolds, Gemma Arterton, Anna Kendrick
91 mins A routine business trip goes off the rails in every way. Stars Vince Vaughn, Dave Franco, Tom Wilkinson EN FR DE IT ES
The SpongeBob Movie: Sponge out of Water
92 mins SpongeBob tries to get the Krabby Patty formula back. Stars Tom Kenny, Antonio Banderas EN FR DE IT ES
Yellowbird 90 mins A hero‘s journey with a most unlikely hero. Stars Arthur Dupont, Sara Forestier, Bruno Salomone
FR DE IT SP
Restricted Not suitable for children under 18. Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español
We also provide a selection of classic movies available on flights to and from North America. Timeless favourites such as Annie Hall and Unforgiven are available as well as a selection of Irish short films and features.
Our Classic Movie Selection
All The President’s Men
Alvin and the Chipmunks: Chipwrecked
138 mins Stars Robert Redford
92 mins Stars Jason Lee
93 mins Stars Woody Allen, Diane Keaton
EN FR DE IT ES
Independence Day PG13
102 mins Stars Clint Eastwood EN
100 mins Stars Zach Galifianakis, Bradley Cooper
145 mins Stars Will Smith, Bill Pullman
96 mins. Stars Reese Witherspoon, Luke Wilson
EN FR DE IT ES
119 mins Stars Vince Vaughn, Owen Wilson
EN FR DE IT ES
136 mins Stars Sean Connery, Nicolas Cage
140mins Stars Christian Bale, Michael Caine
143 mins Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Jennifer Connelly
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
Million Dollar Baby
114 mins Stars Steve McQueen, Jacqueline Bisset EN
Night at the Museum
132 mins Stars Clint Eastwood, Hilary Swank
145 mins Stars Tom Cruise, Colin Farrell
108 mins Stars Ben Stiller, Carla Gugino
EN FR DE IT ES
131 mins Stars Clint Eastwood, Gene Hackman, Morgan Freeman EN
Walk the Line
When Harry met Sally
Diary of a Wimpy Kid
Diary of a Wimpy Kid: Rodrick Rules
94 mins Stars Zachary Gordon, Robert Capron
99 mins Stars Zachary Gordon
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
The Darjeeling Limited
The Great Gatsby
91 mins Stars Owen Wilson
143 mins Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Carey Mulligan
EN FR DE IT ES
EN FR DE IT ES
136 mins Stars Joaquin Phoenix
96 mins. Stars Billy Crystal, Meg Ryan
104 mins Stars Patrick Stewart, Hugh Jackman, Ian McKellen
EN FR DE IT ES
(500) Days of Summer
95 mins Stars Zooey Deschanel
EN FR DE IT ES
Irish Shorts and Features
Being the PG Creative Quarter, Dublin
Boogaloo and Graham
6 mins Stars Jason Kavanagh
15 mins Stars Charlene McKenna, Martin McCann
2 mins Stars Cormac O’Broin, Dylan Ward EN
2 mins Stars Tomás Gleeson, Ben Tompson, Shane Skerry EN
2 mins Stars Tommy O’Neill, Joe Donofrio, Derek O’Sullivan EN
98 mins Stars Moe Dunford, Kerry Fox, Catherine Walker EN
One Million Dubliners 80 mins
The Mad Hatter
3 mins Stars Dermot Magennis, Peter O’Byrne EN
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Television On Demand On Demand TV allows you to select and view your favourite TV shows. Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV in this extensive choice of award-winning Comedy, Drama, Documentary, Lifestyle, Business, Sports and Kids programmes. Business
This month, Bloomberg’s Encore Erik Schatzer sits down with Dell founder and CEO Michael Dell for an exclusive interview. Also from Bloomberg are Eye to Eye, featuring fashion icon, Margerita Missoni. Inside, which profiles mega-company, LinkedIn, and a one-off televised version of the World Economic Forum in Tianjin. Meanwhile, EuroNews bring us Business Planet, Real Economy and Science – all of which cast a cold eye over economics, technology and scientific developments.
Tune into Super Senses to explore the extraordinary sense of smell that some animals possess. Also available are Bullit, which features the classical pianist, Yuja Wang, National Geographic’s Megafactories and Cosmos: A Space Odyssey, hosted by astrophysicist, Neil DeGrasse Tyson. For more on Ireland and Irish culture, tune into Building Ireland, which follows the construction of Waterford’s port, or Tracks and Trails featuring novelist and broadcaster Manchán Magan.
As we witness a golden age in TV drama, Aer Lingus offers engaging choices with boxsets of Fargo, The Walking Dead and Mad Men on offer, as well as multiple episodes from the brand new series, The Knick, and a return to fan favourites, Boardwalk Empire and The Wire.
The Meaning of Life
Enjoy highlights of the Big Apple as John Fitzpatrick, CEO of Fitzpatrick Hotels North America, invites us to explore his quintessentially Irish hotel and his version of New York in the TV short, Fitzpatrick Hotels New York. For more on Irish culture, food and music, tune into Other Voices, Kitchen Hero with Donal Skehan or The Meaning of Life, in which Irish broadcasting veteran Gay Byrne interviews Stephen Fry. In this month’s episode of Young Hollywood’s The Evolution Of..., we delve into the lives of the Modern Family cast, including Sofia Vergara, Ty Burrell and more. Also available are Pawn Stars, The Art Of Graffiti, Project Runways All Stars and Jamie’s Comfort Food.
Kids New Girl
Modern Family first hit our screens in 2010, and has become somewhat of a cultural defining series. Now, with four consecutive Emmy Award for Outstanding Comedy Series and a Golden Globe for Best Comedy TV Series, Modern Family returns with Season 6. Two episodes are available on board your Aer Lingus flight. Those with a more anarchic sense of humour might appreciate two new episodes of It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia. Also available are multiple episodes of New Girl, The Big Bang Theory, Girls and Togetherness.
News & Events In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.
250 Great Goals
Learn to Draw
Kids will surely enjoy Learn To Draw – an educational drawing show, presented by international cartoonist Øistein Kristiansen, that demonstrates new techniques and gives inspiration to get kids drawing! Fans of Learn to Draw may also enjoy charming animated series Pip Ahoy! or an imaginative episode of Rocka-Bye Island. Teens may be more inclined to view and enjoy Austin and Ally, a sitcom about a young internet celebrity or Marvel’s Avengers Assemble starring some much-loved comic characters.
Soccer fans shouldn’t miss 250 Great Goals, which brings a selection of some of the finest goals scored over the last couple of decades, including a stunning free kick from Paul Gascoigne in the 1991 FA semi-cup final and Lionel Messi scoring an amazing goal against Getafe in 2007. Also on board are Ultimate Rush (a must-watch for extreme sports fans!), The Fast Lane for those with an interest in motorsport, and HSBC: Golfing World 2015.
Television On Demand Drama Boxsets
OU R V TOP TICE CHO
Fargo SEASON 1 The announcement of Fargo, the series, caused consternation – why besmirch the legacy of a much-loved Coen brothers classic? And on the surface, it seems like a pointless exercise – same nebbishy lead, same supporting cast of criminal misfits, same frozen location. Another bleakly comic, snow-sunk Midwestern gothic. But the antic morality at the centre of the Coens’ original film is more or less absent. Instead, we’re dealing with something closer to the
reigning spirit of today’s TV drama – violence, nihilism, and a whole lot of anti-heroic behaviour. This might be because the TV format provides fewer opportunities for the Coen’s trademark narrative non-sequiturs, as every seemingly superfluous detail is a possible lead for a future twist. Since this is only Season 1, we don’t really have to worry about that stuff just yet. It’s enough to just sit back and marvel at the well-wrought drama of each episode.
The characters are compellingly drawn, on the thrilling border between verisimilitude and caricature, especially Billy Bob Thornton’s Lorne Malvo. (“There are no saints in the animal kingdom,” he says, “just breakfast and dinner.”) In fact, the most pertinent Coen comparison isn’t with Fargo – it’s with No Country For Old Men, their 2007 Cormac McCarthy adaptation. We wait on tenterhooks for a second season that’s set to rival Breaking Bad.
A crime drama television series with a twist of black comedy
The Walking Dead SEASON 5 That The Walking Dead even managed to stumble to a fifth season is a testament to the show’s quality. Since the very first episode, a sort of zombie apocalypse has been taking place behind the scenes. Cast and crew infighting, budgeting problems and a revolving door of show runners led to several near-cancellations – still the show remains, acclaim piling up faster than the bodies of the dispatched undead. The Walking Dead follows a formula familiar to zombie
movie fans – cross-section of American society forms fragile peripatetic community while fleeing the victims of vicious zombifying plague, etc. In the model of films like 28 Days Later, the zombies (called ‘walkers’) can run, and fast. Unlike most zombie movies, though, there’s little hope to sustain the journey – just peaks and troughs of despair. If you’ve watched from the first season, you’ll notice how quickly the show turned from a subtle morality study into a
grave-dark drama of shifting power dynamics. This shift is at its starkest in Season 5. The first episode presents us with a perfect example; when protagonist Rick meet a priest, Fr Gabriel, he is instantly suspicious when the man insists that he has never killed anyone, human or walker. Cynical pessimism is the only reasonable response to the world of The Walking Dead. The stakes can only rise as we lurch towards the show’s penultimate season.
A gritty drama portrays life in the weeks and months following a zombie apocalypse
Mad Men SEASON 7 In the first half of its final season, Mad Men’s future finally arrives. It’s been the show’s guiding tension since the very first episode – when will the 1960s hit? And not just the rock music, drugs and tie-dyes, the familiar counter cultural wallpaper of representations of that era; the 1960s was also the decade of One-Dimensional Man and ‘The Medium Is The Message,’ the birth pangs of both today’s corporate advertising culture and its discontents. Thus, in Season 7, a computer finally arrives in the office.
Copywriter Michael Ginsberg is threatened by its static, humming efficiency, and loses his marbles in the time-honoured white collar way. Peggy and Don are in competition for the position of alpha personality, a gender dynamic unimaginable in Season 1, and Dawn Chambers, the show’s first major black character, is promoted to personnel director. Like Leopold Bloom, another ad man, Don Draper is privileged to be perched on a protagonist’s plateau,
watching the world below transform itself. But he lacks the crucial self-awareness to follow through, and his appetites degrade, rather than enrich, his experience. By Season 7, even Draper’s mentor Roger Stirling has outstripped him, and the toxic comforts of fat has-beendom are beckoning. It’s up to the second half of Season 7 to show us whether or not he’ll catch up with the world.
A drama series about one of New York‘s most prestigious ad agencies in the 1960s
Your Relaxation, Business, Leisure and Family Resort in beautiful County Mayo
Our 90 acre park and woodland resort is home to two hotels – Breaffy House Hotel with 106 rooms for relaxed leisure and business breaks and We wou Breaffy Woods Hotel with 128 rooms for family fun and holiday ld to host love your breaks – with only a few minutes stroll between each property. wed The multi-award-winning Healy Mac’s Irish Bar and Restaurant now open at Breaffy House
Breaffy Spa features 12 treatment rooms which includes 2 Dry Floatation Therapy beds, a Hydrotherapy Bath and our signature Rasul Mud Chamber
Breaffy House Resort is a registered civil wedding ceremony venue with banqueting facilities catering for up to 500 guests and conferences of up to 2,500 delegates Breaffy Buddies Kids Club with playground, astro turf pitch and indoor games room
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Radio On Demand
TOP R ADIO PICK
On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows.
CL ASSIC AL
Contemporary easy listening from both sides of the Atlantic brought to you compliments of The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA.
Marty in the Morning
Movies and Musicals
The Hamilton Scores
TXFM‘s Indie Hits
Ceol na nGael
Join Marty Whelan as he takes the chill out of your early mornings with music, news, weather and travel updates from 7–10am, weekday mornings on RTÉ lyric fm.
Movies and Musicals features a broad range of soundtracks from early classics, right through to contemporary scores. Presented by Aedín Gormley.
The Hamilton Scores features George’s superb choice of music to accompany your flight! Broadcast on Saturday mornings from 10am–1pm on RTÉ lyric fm.
TXFM bring us the best indie hits of the moment, featuring artists such as Blur and Mumford & Sons. Curated especially for Aer Lingus by TXFM presenter, Claire Beck.
A traditional and folk music programme presented by Seán Ó hÉanaigh of RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta. Ceol traidisiúnta agus ceol tíre den scoth.
Irish Poetry Corner
Irish Pulse brings you some of the most famous Irish songs in recent history. Listen out for Villagers, We Cut Corners and many more!
Join Emma O’Driscoll in this edition of Happy Days on RTÉjr Radio with songs about flying, exercising during the flight and some fun games that you can play on your journey!
Brian Munn selects and reads verses from renowned Irish Poets: WB Yeats, Oliver Goldsmith and Oscar Wilde amongst others.
Tune in as Chart Hits lifts the lid on the most up-tothe-minute pop hits from both sides of the Atlantic!
Weekday evenings you’ll catch ‘The Big Ride Home’ with Dara Quilty on Dublin’s 98FM from 4pm. Dara’s on board right now to count down the top ten songs of the year!
Weekend On One
Ryan Tubridy, presents a daily radio programme on RTÉ 2fm. In this programme, especially recorded for Aer Lingus, he plays some of his favourite radio hits.
The Weekend on One with Cathal Murray airs every Saturday and Sunday morning between 6–8am on RTÉ Radio 1. It features an eclectic mix of music from all genres.
TA L K R A D I O
Nova Irish Classic Rock
Documentary on One
Best of Moncrieff
Celebrate some of our favourite albums, from AC/DC to Zeppelin, with Foo Fighters, Dylan, Bowie, and Oasis. Hosted by Marty Miller from Nova 100FM.
Documentary on One brings you two documentaries. The story of Harry Callan, an Irishman held in captivity during WW2 and the story of Paddy Armstrong, one of the Guilford Four.
Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent issues. Tune in every weekday 1.30–4.30pm on Newstalk 106–108 FM.
Music On Demand Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums. Why not begin with some of our crew’s favourites below! A L L T I M E FAVO U R I T E S
Amy Winehouse Back to Black Billy Joel An Innocent Man Fleetwood Mac Rumours Status Quo Aquostic (Stripped Bare)
A LT E R N AT I V E
Father John Misty
Father John Misty I Love You, Honeybear Johnny Marr Playland Karen O Crush Songs Morrissey World Peace is None of your Business
E L EC T R O
Aphex Twin Syro Basement Jaxx Scars Depeche Mode Sounds of the Universe Jungle Jungle Röyksopp The Inevitable End
Theatre of Voices & Paul Hillier
Alfie Boe Alfie Andrea Bocelli Aria – The Opera Album Katherine Jenkins Believe Theatre of Voices & Paul Hillier Lang: The Little Match Girl Passion
Damien Rice My Favourite Faded Fantasy Hozier Hozier (Deluxe Version) Jape This Chemical Sea Sinéad O’Connor I’m not Bossy, I’m the Boss The Coronas The Long Way POP
Kelly Clarkson Piece By Piece (Deluxe Version) Jessie Ware Tough Love Sam Smith In the Lonely Hour Taylor Swift 1989 (Deluxe)
CL ASSIC AL
Alexandre Tharaud Chopin: Journal Benjamin Grosvenor Dances Piotr Anderszewski JS Bach: English Suites Nos 1, 3 & 5 Rachel Podger Guardian Angel JA Z Z
Hypnotic Brass Ensemble
Bill Laurance Flint Brian Blade & The Fellowship Band Landmarks Ginger Baker Why? Joe Jackson The Duke Hypnotic Brass Ensemble Fly: The Customs Prelude RNB
Drake If You’re Reading This it’s Too Late Electric Wire Hustle Love Can Prevail FKA Twigs LP1 Nicki Minaj The Pinkprint (Deluxe)
Angaleena Presley American Middle Class Brantley Gilbert Just as I am Dierks Bentley Riser Ray Price Beauty is... The Final Sessions M E TA L
Eluveitie Origins Judas Priest Redeemer of Souls Megadeth Th1rt3en Metallica Death Magnetic Motörhead The Wörld is Yours Slayer South of Heaven ROCK
Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds
Coldplay Ghost Stories Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds Chasing Yesterday (Deluxe) Robert Plant Lullaby and... The Ceaseless Roar The Black Keys Turn Blue JULY 2015
Flight Connections at Dublin Airport WELCOME TO DUBLIN AIRPORT
Where are you ﬂying to?
Are your bags checked through to your ﬁnal destination? YES Follow signs for Flight Connections
NO Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.
ALL OTHER DESTINATIONS
GATES 401– 426 15 minutes walk to gate
GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate
Follow signs for US Preclearance
Have all your required forms ﬁlled out.
Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk Our staﬀ are on hand for any queries you might have. Here you can: – Collect your onwards boarding pass – Check your next boarding gate and ﬂight status
Gate Information Screens
Dublin Airport provides FREE Wi-Fi throughout the Terminal
Passport Control and Security Screening
Hand Baggage search
Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.
Follow signs for Flight Connections
Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.
Our Gold Circle Members and Business Class guests are welcome to visit the Gold Circle Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between ﬂights.
DUBAI JLT UAE FUJAIRAH UAE AWARD-WINNING FOOD, LIVE ENTERTAINMENT, SPORT ON SCREENS & GENUINE IRISH HOSPITALITY
DUBAI WTC UAE
DUBAI AIRPORT UAE
NEW YORK USA Now Open
GALWAY IRELAND Now Open
LIMERICK IRELAND LONDON ENGLAND Coming soon
ABU DHABI UAE
CLARKE QUAY SINGAPORE BRAY IRELAND Coming soon
We are now open in New York City. Find us @ 70 West 36th Street, between 5th & 6th Avenue. McGettigan’s - Proud History, Bright Future
Sinnotts Traditional Irish Bar in the heart of Dublin’s old shopping district. Food Served All Day NHA Irish Sports Bar of theYear 2014 Late Bar & DJ’s Thursday to Saturday
Quote ‘Cara Magazine’ and get 2 for 1 Traditional Irish Stew Sinnotts Traditional Irish Bar, South King Street, (St. Stephens Green), Dublin 2 +353 1 4784698 email@example.com www.sinnotts.ie
Flight Connections at T2 Heathrow Airport On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections
Which Terminal are you ﬂying from?
Terminal 1 is connected by a pedestrian link from Terminal 2. For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are ﬂying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.
You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security.
Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your ﬂight is ready for boarding.
Flight Connections for North American destinations If you have any queries about your connecting flight at any of our North American destinations please ask us. We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.
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Our European and North American Route Network Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America. Visit aerlingus.com for more information. Edmonton Saskatoon
Vancouver Victoria Seattle
Salt Lake City Omaha
Boston Martha’s Vineyard
Dallas (Fort Worth)
Burlington Portland ME
Tulsa Los Angeles Santa Ana Orange County San Diego
Detroit Fort Wayne
Tampa Fort Myers
West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami
Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air)
Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe)
Aer Lingus partner destinations (JetBlue, United Airlines, Air Canada)
With US Customs and Border Protection Pre-Clearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland. 160 |
San Juan Aguadilla Ponce
We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America. You can travel from Dublin direct to five US destinations, or to Canada, and benefit from up to 100 onward connections with our partner airlines.
Connect with ease from any of our European destinations to our Northern American network via Dublin or Shannon.
Inverness Aberdeen Glasgow
Isle of Man Liverpool
Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester East Midlands
London (Heathrow) Bristol
Dusseldorf Brussels Prague
Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Pula Marseille Nice Bologna
Santiago de Compostela
Tenerife Gran Canaria
Try our new online route map You can view our destinations and book your flight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your ipad, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!
Our Middle East and Australasia Route Network You can now book flights between Dublin and Abu Dhabi, and have full access to flights across the network beyond Abu Dhabi, to points including Australia, Asia-Pacific, the Indian Subcontinent and the Middle East. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.
Bahrain Abu Dhabi Muscat
Kuala Lumpur Singapore
Aer Lingus routes from Dublin (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways)
Healy Macâ€™s on P Ramlee in Kuala Lumpur named Best Irish Bar in the World by The Irish Times & Diageo Now open at Breaffy House Hotel Castlebar, Co Mayo
Healy Macâ€™s multi-award-winning Irish Bar & Restaurant Malaysia . Indonesia . Ireland . Spain (late 2015)
Enjoy Wi-Fi and Mobile on board your transatlantic flight today* Wi-Fi on board On our A330 aircraft you can stay in touch with everything that matters, even when you’re in the air. Here’s how to connect your Wi-Fi enabled devices.
Switch on Once the safety belt sign has been switched off, turn on your device and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi
Mobile Network on board With our on board mobile network, AeroMobile, you can use your phone for text, email and internet browsing, just like you always do**. Stay connected even as you cross the Atlantic.
Connect Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse aerlingus.com for free along with some of our partners’ sites.
Purchase Internet Access Click the ‘Buy Internet Access’ button and choose a tariff that offers either one hour of browsing or a 24 hour pass.
Payment Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.
Username and Password
Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so and ensure it is on silent or vibrate mode.
Aeromobile Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.
Welcome SMS Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator. Standard roaming rates apply.
Enter a username and password. You need to remember these if you wish to change device.
** Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and roaming charges.
You can now browse, email and surf the internet… enjoy! W ER NE W ES LO R I C P
One hour pass €7.95 | $9.95 24 hour pass €14.95 | $18.95 JULY 2015
You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email and browsing the internet.
Standard roaming rates apply from your mobile phone operator *A330 aircraft only.
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BOUTIQUE | SHOPPING
It’s SO much more than an inflight shopping catalogue.
On your way to your summer holiday and just realised you forgot your cosmetics bag (and young Freddie's favourite teddy)? Don't panic, Boutique's got you covered.
COOL COSMETICS FOR HOT SUMMER NIGHTS From the cult favourite, Touche Éclat, to the incredible Irish product, TanOrganics Self Tanning Oil (right), Boutique is bursting with brilliant brands at astonishing prices. Fancy saving ¤45 on Transformula's Marine Miracle Crème? Or how about picking up Elizabeth Arden's Eight Hour Essentials Set for just ¤28 (it has an equivalent value of ¤76!)? From make-up to skincare, Boutique has everything you need for your most beautiful summer holiday yet.
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FANTASTIC FEATURES FILLED WITH TIPS AND TRICKS So here’s the thing you won’t find, you know, in other inflight shopping magazines. In Boutique, we go that one step further and offer some really great reading too. In the new issue you’ll find features on everything from choosing your signature scent (for women and men) to tips on achieving awesome brows. You’re welcome.
FRESH SUMMER SCENTS Look for a fresh new fragrance for your holiday? Boutique has the best range of designer scents, all at sweet prices. For summer in a bottle, you can't beat Dolce & Gabbana's classic, Light Blue. Capturing sun-drenched days and dazzling nights, you can practically feel the Italian sun when you spritz it on. Even better? You'll save ¤20 if you buy it from Boutique.
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SOMETHING FOR ALL FAMILY Boutique isn't just your one-stop-shop for grown-ups, you know. Sure, there are lots of gadgets and gifts for big kids, but little ones are definitely catered for too. From the adorable Fergus the Bear (he has an aviation jacket on, for heaven's sake!) to a must-have Frozen watch (which she'll never want to let go of), there are lots of really great gifts and games for children. We particularly love Rory's Story Cubes – an Irish game that will keep them entertained for hours – and the fab underwater camera for just ¤12 #seaselfies
YOU CAN WIN TWO FLIGHTS TO SAN FRANCISCO Finally, if lovingly handselected items at incredible prices, plus exclusive buys and interesting features aren’t enough, you can also win flights to San Fran. WE KNOW! In fact, we’re wondering why you’re still reading this ...
TRIP OF A LIFETIME | RWANDA
Aer Lingus senior cabin crew Melanie Kialka visited Rwanda to witness Unicef’s life-changing community work. was very excited about the trip with Unicef as I had always wanted to volunteer abroad, to try to help people who needed it and make a real difference in their lives. I’ll admit it though, I was also apprehensive. We visited the Early Childhood Development & Family (ECD&F) centre on the day that I was team leader. This was close to my heart as I have four children myself. The bright, colourful facility was built in July 2014 and is a very welcoming eco-build with an inner courtyard. Unicef ’s goal is to build another 13 to 18 centres as the one we visited is so effective. I was impressed with what was offered here, how it helps the “Twas” (marginalised people)
integrate with the local community by meeting at the centre, with their children. It also gives parents and children the opportunity to mix at educational sessions and acquire new social skills. The Rwandan people we met were so friendly to us. Every time we arrived at a school or a centre they welcomed us with traditional dancing and singing. They have so little but were always full of smiles and gratitude for the simple things in life. We brought lots of gifts for the local families at the ECD&F, including games and toys – bubbles and balloons, in particular, went down a treat. At one point I was giving out presents when one woman, longing for something, caught my eye – but I had just
They have so little but were always full of smiles and gratitude for the simple things in life 168 |
Above, students at the Early Childhood & Development centre; right, Melanie Kialka shares a simple pleasure.
Do you have a Trip of a Lifetime story about an Aer Lingus destination? Please send it to tripofalifetime@ image.ie at not more than 600 words with a portrait shot of yourself. The editor’s decision is final.
run out of gifts, so I dug into my handbag, all I had was a brush-andmirror set, and you would think I had given her the winning lotto ticket, such was her gratitude. Rwanda has one of the highest rates of breastfeeding in the world, which is something to be very proud of. They could show us a thing or two in the Western world about how natural it is to breastfeed your baby any time, any place. Rwandan mothers exclusively breastfeed their babies up to six months before introducing them to solids, however they continue to breastfeed for two years and beyond. Meanwhile, we saw firsthand how expectant mothers are educated on how important it is to stimulate their baby while it’s in the womb and how babies react positively to music. On our last evening I chaired a de-briefing session with Noala Skinner, a Unicef representative based at their head office in Rwanda. Each of my colleagues gave a synopsis of their own project work and we all rounded it up with suggestions and any observations we had noted during our week. Lastly, I thanked Noala for a fantastic, productive and busy week with the team and presented her with a large scale A320 retro model aircraft, which she was absolutely thrilled to receive and said it will take pride of place in the Unicef head office. It was a week that all of us will truly cherish and remember forever. So keep those Unicef collections going onboard, as they really do make such a huge difference, which we saw firsthand on our trip. Each and every one of us has our part to play onboard Aer Lingus to help Unicef continue their fantastic work.
Old stories made new
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Aer Lingus In Flight Magazine Published by IMAGE Publications