The Crude Perfumer

the crude perfumer Charlotte Marshall N0441573

the crude perfumer MARKETING STRATEGY AND PROPOSAL CHARLOTTE MARSHALL N0441573 FASHION COMMUNICATION & PROMOTION CREATIVE NETWORKS FASH10106

contents

The crude perfumer

The launch

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LOOKING TO THE FUTURE

appendices

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references

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THE CRUDE PERFUMER (Un)refined.

the crude perfumer A Brand. A Lifestyle.

The Crude Perfumer a is niche fragrance brand; one that embodies seasonal changes and our consumer’s lifestyle. This brand aims to develop into a lifestyle, essential for the young city professionals aged 25-34. Our unisex product creates fresh fragrances incorporating raw, “crude”, seasonal ingredients, to create ever changing fragrance notes in line with the seasons. With our consumer’s social calendar at the forefront of our brand ethos, The Crude Perfumer will develop quarterly, Limited Edition fragrances, imitating the pace of our consumer’s social and professional lives and released in line with the changing seasons.

Using seasonal notes for each of our dated fragrance releases, our initial fragrance is simply entitled, AUTUMN TWENTY THIRTEEN; the perfume title is almost anonymous, waiting to be interpreted by the wearer’s social calendar.

Our development of consumer relations and loyalty are key to our brand identity, and can be achieved through technology and social media platforms such as Pinterest, which boasts, according to DMR, 48.7 million users, (Smith. C, 2013).

Our consumer driven brand aims to deliver not only fresh unisex fragrance but memories, unlocked through the power of scent, evoked by our scents.

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According to the Art of Scent, Marian Bendeth writes “Fragrance speaks the loudest on a subliminal level”,(2012) and with the gradual promotional scheme I predict for The Crude Perfumer, this will subliminally transform Autumn Twenty Thirteen and the subsequent seasons into indispensable products.

Through initially exclusive launch events that become staple features of our consumer’s social calendar, to the expansion of events centred around our brand; such as Crude parties, predicted Spring 2014 and a Summer festival the following season. I will draw upon the ideas of Hovland and Wolburg, in their writings; Advertising, Society and Consumer Culture (2010), applying their theory of aspiration within advertising. The lifestyle established by our promotion campaigns seeks to draw upon the idea of consumer aspiration, and will demonstrate this through showing the fragrance to be bracketed within the good life they aspire to have.

The Crude Perfumer will retail in two London department stores initially. Targeting the everyday energetic aspect of our product through retailing at Selfridges and the more niche and premium aesthetic of The Crude Perfumer by retailing in Liberty’s, both offering very different retail experiences to a broader spectrum of our consumer demographic. By 2015, The Crude Perfumer will have established it’s own boutique fragrance lounge, and with statistics suggesting that “this age segment [ages 25-34] [are] predicted to continue growing in 2012-2017, is thus a positive market driver.” (Richards, A. 2012)

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autumn twenty thirteen The Launch.

The Crude Perfumer is hosting our launch event at Dalston Roof Park. This East London venue, with a view across the City provides the perfect balance between casual cocktails and a creative London lifestyle.

Drinks will be provided by Background Bars, serving seasonal cocktails, with a focus on the fragrance notes within our scent, and natural seasonal ingredients. This smart/casual event is reflective of the lifestyle of our guests. In an area thriving in boutique stores such as APC and Aida, and independent creative outlets such as Artwords and Rough Trade East, our niche brand perfectly suits this creative hub. “The East End is a fertile ground for raw organic design” states Yvonne Duncan-Mandel (2011), and it is these crude elements 5

Our guest list will include bloggers, writers, artists and designers, a young creative hub of our target consumer. Amongst the guests will be junior fashion editors, Flossie Saunders and Harriet Steward, from the Sunday Times Style, with The Sunday Times boasting 2.5 million readers with a high proportion of ABC1 (86%) and AB (63%) readers, according to News International (Jul-Sep 2012). Other invited publications editors will include, How to Spend it, fashion journalist Damian Foxe, Julia Sarr Jamois, editor of Wonderland and Another magazine’s editor Laura Bradley; a writer specialising in fashion, fragrance, arts and culture. To cover our unisex demographic, invites will be extended to bloggers Emanuelle Honnorat and Marie-Claire Chappet who write for 1883 Digital, a quarterly magazine “showcasing the freshest emerging talent from the worlds of music, fashion, film, travel and arts, (1883 Digital)”.

Blogger, Krisabel Plummer, fashion graduate and creative power behind, “I Want You To Know,” will also broadcast our event and promote our exclusive launch to a wider readership. Also invited are Ben Herbert, the Editor-in-chief of FashionBeans, the men’s online magazine and Marcus Jayne, who has previously written for Men’s Health and GQ, and now owns his own website The Chic Geek. With the blog demographic, according to Mashable (2012), standing at that 53.3% of bloggers aged between 2135, blogs are a creative platform The Crude Perfumer will use to network and broadcast, ultimately establishing our own lifestyle blog. According to ComScore (2010), reports have shown that females spend more time online than men, therefore it is important to target our male demographic through other mediums. This will be achieved by advertising in printed publications such as Mr Porter Post, a quarterly publication, delivered to the reader; our male target market.

The promotion I envisage, sees The Crude Perfumer slowly and subtly penetrating the market therefore the presence of high end celebrities at my event who receive too much coverage from a mass market is unsuitable as we do not initially intend to retail to this market. Our niche brand launch will have guests such as models Mary Charteris and Portia Freeman. There is a clear focus to the guest list; young creatives, with fast paced London life, all with the time to

embrace something unique and niche.

With a capacity of 200, Dalston Roof Park provides the perfect space for an intimate, secluded and memorable event at which our guests can integrate, relating in their interests in arts culture as well as their adaptable and accelerated city lifestyles.

Greeted at the Launch with Autumn Twenty Thirteen cocktails infused with seasonal fruit, Dalston Roof Park with its casual and scenic aesthetic will boast an inviting party atmosphere. Held in summer, ahead of the launching season, our guests will be relaxing and revelling in the chance to mix with fellow professionals, whilst the sun gradually sets over London.

With DJ sets from Mister Lies and Sky Ferreira, these casual house sets will see our event through to the early hours.

After watching the “Individualism Presents Hackett” store opening video (2013), I was inspired by both the atmosphere and the launch itself. With guests playing pool, live music and a Barber giving high class haircuts in store, the energy, enjoyment and engagement was clear. At The launch of Autumn Twenty Thirteen, we will play host to a photo booth, whilst the bar tenders offer guests the exciting opportunity to mix their own cocktails. However it is the photo booth that will play the key part in creating lasting memories of the night and will coincide with the launch of The Crude App.

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Calender Preview

The App will be unveiled initially at the Launch of Autumn Twenty Thirteen.

The Crude Perfumer is more than a fragrance, we have created a lifestyle brand, and it is this lifestyle that we want our consumer to be completely absorbed by. We are living in what Campbell and Twenge call a Narcissism Epidemic. Promoted by apps such as Instagram, with 100 million users (3013) this new age of the “social butterfly” (Kerr, A. 2013. See Appendix A) documents online, an enviable virtual persona with a social calendar that boasts more functions than the next social butterfly.

Just the names Facebook and MySpace deliberately insinuate narcissistic traits and with Youtube’s tag line being “Broadcast Yourself”, The Crude Perfumer will launch an app, not focussed on the #selfie but on the memories of the season. It will be a social calendar with the opportunity to upload one picture each day throughout our fragrance season.

Highlighted by Tim Rundle and Katie Pukrik, the connection between “scent” and “memory” is strong, but is a market opportunity that is not 7

It requires users to enter contact details, for the The Crude Perfumer to begin creating consumer loyalty and data connections. Once at the party photos from the night will be uploaded to the app. The chosen photo memory is then encased in the set resin in the base of the bottle.

This bottle will be their personalised sample to take away with them, with photos from the launch.

This concept is unique to the Crude Perfumer.

This app enables our customers to create a catalogue of instant seasonal memories placed into an archive.

On leaving the event our guests will leave with their personalised bottle and be asked to sign our Crude diary, much like the Filofax launch (2012) where guests were asked to leave a message in their function diary; a lasting memory of the night.

In the following weeks our guests will receive samples of our four up and coming fragrances for 2014, and a hardback diary with the dates of Crude parties and feature messages left by the other guests, in a memory scrapbook style.

The Crude Perfumer will host launch events at both Selfridges Daylesford Tea Garden, and Libertys, but these will be hosted

by PR company, PushPR; Specialising in, “forward thinking Fashion & Lifestyle Public Relations”.

PushPR, have launched businesses such as nelly.com and Alice Menter, small niche brands, who with the help of PushPR have featured in publications such as Dazed, i-D and Love. Rachel Humpherys for nelly. com writes that “we’ve received unprecedented product placement for a new retailer” (2012). This coverage and the readership of these publications reach through the collaboration with PushPR, is the niche stepping stone our brand would require to expand gradually into the right market and demographic.

Promoted through posters and flyering, our consumers will use this flyer as an invite, creating the sense of exclusivity you receive with a niche brand.

We will flyer in areas such as Shoreditch, Chiswick and Islington.

Our consumer understanding, means we can recognise our customer on the street, by their style and location, this ensures the right cliental attend our launch and feel valued through our guest selection.

Our department store launches will be low key, yet provide our customer with a similar experience as our initial launch. Our in store launches will have photo booths and the App will be available to download, expanding our consumer base further. A feature video of the Dalston Roof Park party will be played, in the style we shot our backstage shoot video. This glimpse into the lifestyle of The Crude Perfumer, again plays on the idea of the aspirational consumer(Hovland, R. & Wolburg, J. 2010). Our department store consumers will see this video and want to be invited to the next Crude party.

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Fashion Film is a hugely powerful marketing tool. Heralded as one of the best fashion films of the season, by The Business of Fashion (2013), Steven Meisel has filmed Lanvin’ Spring/Summer 2013 campaign, and taken the brand In the opposite direction from generic. The film features Albert Elbaz, the House’s Creative Director, providing informal skype commentary, “a clear wink to Internet culture intruding on the otherwise airtight perfection of print media”.

Embracing technology and our consumer, The Crude Perfumer, will create a launch film to generate hype around our brand. This will be broadcast on YouTube and on empty walls around the city. This is a promotion idea I first saw in Williamsburg, New York, broadcast on an empty wall from the roof of a car was an arts film, promoting a gallery. Its so unexpected that it makes passers-by stop. Location is key, again London areas I will target will be Chiswick and Shoreditch, and advertise before short art films shown at venues such as Notting Hill Arts Club and Red Gallery, Shoreditch. The use of promotional projection has already grabbed the attention of fashion media. The company Projection Advertising have been offering businesses the opportunity to project their promotional campaign onto the Cliffs of Dover.

H&M projected their David Beckham, bodywear line campaign. Ella Alexander (2012), in writing “A Beckham Landmark” for Vogue News online wrote that the campaign “illuminated the famous British landmark [and] caused a media frenzy”.

Following our launch our product will be available to purchase from these two London department stores and their websites, at a price of £70 for 100ml. Also online retailer Net-a-Porter and Mr Porter and advertised on How To Spend it Gift Guide edited by Rochelle Radstone

Looking to the future

our brand will only grow in strength and identity. With tactile and scented adverts appearing in printed publications such as How to Spend it, Wonderland and AnOther. David Whitbread writes in “The Design Manual”(2009) how reader interaction can enhance the success of the ad through techniques such as varying paper type and tactile laminated surfaces. The subtle inclusion of our fragrance bottle within our advert’s lifestyle layout means that to highlight our product we will use a laminate, scratch and sniff surface technique. Our bottle so discretely fits into our consumer lifestyle, and this is mirrored in our advert design. The bottle is in proportion to other products in the display and only highlighted by the gloss of the varying paper. Our advert will vary from season to season through the subtle alteration of appropriate product and items. When we conducted a survey of our consumer (See Appendix B), favourite past times included travel, live music and the arts, all of which are reflected in the objects we’ve chosen to feature including passports, a camera and gig tickets. Our lifestyle advert will alter seasonally to display fitting seasonal items and products.

As we grow and expand, so too will our consumer following. By summer 2015 I predict our consumer following to have grown to a sufficient number for our brand to host a launch festival. Gradually our launch events will increase in size, with industry professionals and consumers being given the opportunity to sample our latest season. Winter Twenty Thirteen will be hosted at LoungeLover, Benthnal Green and Spring Twenty Fourteen at Sketch, Gallery and East Bar. By Summer Twenty Fourteen, we intend to host a launch festival, taking inspiration from our consumer’s lifestyle interests and the subtle

mysterious promotion stagey of Secret Cinema. Secret Cinema is popular London cinematic experience attracting the intrigued and curious. There is still largely an air of mystery about it despite having been established in 2007.

Promotion is achieved through word of mouth and locations and themes not released until the day. Nick Curtis for the London Standard writes how audience involvement is key to the Secret Cinema’s success “ elevating them from spectators to enthralled participants” (2012) The air of secrecy and complicity makes the experience more precious to the audience . With our App, we will post clues as to dates and venues, and ensure that our loyal consumers are kept informed and receive priority information weeks before our festival launch. We aim through word of mouth to boost our App following, and customer data. People will want to come to the next Crude party. Once we have developed our consumer following, our brand intends to make retain brand excitement through the secretive release of launch venues and information. Our ultimate goal is to release anonymous time and date posts on the app for ticket collection and coordinates for the party destination. “The scavenger model for marketing gives you instant user interaction.” says Nancy Messieh, writing for The Next Web (2011). For the launch of Jay-Z’s book launch, Decoded, he deployed a similar marketing technique with the help of search engine Bing and creative agency Droga5. The agency placed various pages of the rappers book all over America including: “a rooftop in New Orleans, a pool bottom in Miami, cheeseburger wrappers in New York City, a pool table in Jay’s 40/40 Club” (Gray, T. 2010). Using Bing maps and locations released through social media, readers were about to decode the clues given and source the page locations with the chance to win Jay-Z concert tickets.

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The Crude Perfumer is a lifestyle brand.

Through our events we hope to create lasting memories of that season.

The Crude Perfumer will develop an archive by 2015, after one full year of production. This is a concept unique to The Crude Perfumer. A catalogue of personal memories all connected through scent and association. As previously mentioned our perfumes are simply named after the seasons, with interpretation left open for occasion or circumstance and through doing this the fragrance becomes entirely and subconsciously personal. The consumer will be able to contact our archive years after their limited edition fragrance was taken out of circulation. Scent is the closest sense linked to memory and simply by remembering the time of year they wish to purchase, our consumer will be able to unlock memories. The science behind this reveals that the physical abilty to smell is closely linked to memory through the proximity of the olfactory nerve in location to the amygdala, the area of the brain that is connected to “emotion as well as emotional memory”(Cherry, K. 2010). Through the combination of the Crude App and the archive, our consumer will be able to place personal photos from that season into the base of the bottle, instantly accessible through the App calendar of memories. This is a special feature of archive bottles. Not only does the scent of Autumn Twenty Thirteen bring back memories of past occasions but pictures from these events are encased in the base; A beautiful, unique and personal touch.

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Following domestic success in the fragrance industry The Crude Perfumer intends to capitalise on immerging markets, particularly European in reference to the beauty and personal care industry. However our global marketing strategy is not exclusive to Europe, in that other international economies namely Brazil provide an opportunity to attain a new consumer and further our brand. In 2016 “Brazil is forecast to generate higher incremental growth in beauty care than any other market” Rob Walker (2012). This statistic alone is suggestive of an opportunity to enter an exciting growing market in beauty care. Our primary goal in terms of expansion lies in Europe, partially in the thriving Norwegian and German economies.

Whilst Germany is Europe’s largest economy (IMF), Norway boasts an economy “with high employment rates and stronger disposable income levels among consumers”. Essentially this provides a basis for The Crude Perfumer to attempt to develop a strong hold in these nations, within the beauty markets. Consideration of potential retailers is crucial and in reference to Germany, Ludwig Beck and KaDeWe, target the same cosmopolitan consumer as our operations domestically in London.

Overall The Crude Perfumer as a confident and ambitious brand, plans for future international development, only after following significant social and economic success in the UK.(See Appendix C)

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“Fragrances remain an emotionally-driven market,� (2012).

The Crude Perfumer is not just a Fragrance, we are a lifestyle.

We aim to deliver not only fresh seasonal fragrance but a social calendar thaT boasts The Crude Lifestyle; an enviable social calendar documented by The Crude App, and memories bottled by The Crude Perfumer.

the crude perfumer

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appendices Appendix A:

Appendix C: The Crude Perfumer Presentation - Marketing and Promotion

Kerr, A. Branding, Advertsing & The Social Butterfly Norris, L. 2013. Branding & Consumer Culture. FASH10106: Creative Networks 2012/13 Half Year 2

Appendix B: Consumer Research Questionaire & Survey

RESEARCH SURVEY http://www.surveymonkey.com/MySurvey_EditorFull.aspx?sm=b2PdotX_2F_2BkZmqVfl_2FyLlh85kEPbZ7lcrtazD0jU5Ni4_3D FRAGRANCE SURVEY http://www.surveymonkey.com/MySurvey_EditorFull.aspx?sm=uvzTcLGYF9Z_2FVZXJ0XWSG1pehFQ9Ocbgf_2F9VMnXdwmY_3D 15

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Businessoffashion.co.uk. Available at: http://www.businessoffashion.com/2013/03/ top-10-fashion-films-of-the-season.html Cherry, K. 2010. Scent Can Be a Powerful Memory Trigger [online]. Available at: http://psychology.about.com/od/memory/ss/ten-facts-about-memory_8.htm Curtis, N. 2012. Secret Cinema: how to get 25,000 people to pay £50 for a film ticket, without knowing what the film is [online]. Standard.co.uk. Available at: http://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/esmagazine/secret-cinema-how-to-get-25000people-to-pay-50-for-a-film-ticket-without-knowing-what-the-film-is-8390489.html Duncan-Mandel, Y. 2011. Trend Walk – London’s Fashionable East End [online].

Kreativlondon.blogspot.co.uk. Available at: http://kreativlondon.blogspot. co.uk/2011/09/london-take-walk-in-east-end.html Gray, T. 2010. INSIDE JAY-Z’S LAUNCH OF “DECODED” WITH DROGA5, BING [online].

Fastcocreate.com Available at: http://www.fastcocreate.com/1679232/jay-z-decoded HACKETT SPITALFIELDS STORE LAUNCH VIDEO, 2013 [Film]. London: Aaron Christian and Olan Collardy Available at: http://www.individualism.co.uk/2013/01/hackett-spitalfields-store-launch-video/ Hovland, R & Wolberg, J. 2010. Advertising, Society and Consumer Culture.

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Skelton, A. 2012. Social Demographics: Who’s Using Today’s Biggest Networks [online]. Mashable.com. Available at: http://mashable.com/2012/03/09/social-mediademographics/ Smith, C. 2013. How Many People Use the Top Social Media, Apps & Services? [online]. Expandedramblings.com. Available at: http://expandedramblings.com/ index.php/resource-how-many-people-use-the-top-social-media/ Whitbread, D. 2009. The Design Manual. Australia, Sydney: Wales Press Ltd

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New

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University of New South

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