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Tasty Things To Try This Weekend PAGES 4-5

Thursday, December 2, 2010 « Vol. 1, No. 3 « Free Publication « Brooklyn, NY

All The Fun Of Brooklyn Flea PAGES 26-31

My Perfect Day, By Rachel Of Iris Café PAGE 15

Kate Manecke, Hallie Falquet and Rachel Lapal at a book launch party for “Baked Explorations”, held at Greene Grape and Greenlight bookstore in Fort Greene. Photograph by Allen Ying – see pages 6-10 for more

How To Make Your Restaurant Green PAGE 34

Do NOT pick up this FREE paper unless you want to be inspired and informed by delicious Brooklyn food and drink. Happy Hanukkah!


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Almanac

BROOKLYN BREAD

Thursday, December 2, 2010

From The Editors

Our Team

THURSDAY December 2 Partly cloudy

Editor Danielle Franca Swift

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Editor Jack Wright

High Temperature: 45 Low Temperature: 31 Chance of Rain: 20% Sunrise: 7:02am Sunset: 4:29pm Moon phase: 17% visible

FRIDAY December 3 Mostly sunny

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High Temperature: 45 Low Temperature: 29 Chance of Rain: 10% Sunrise: 7:03am Sunset: 4:29pm Moon phase: 10% visible

SATURDAY December 4 Mostly sunny

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High Temperature: 42 Low Temperature: 35 Chance of Rain: 10% Sunrise: 7:04am Sunset: 4:29pm Moon phase: 4% visible

SUNDAY December 5 Few showers

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High Temperature: 39 Low Temperature: 32 Chance of Rain: 30% Sunrise: 7:05am Sunset: 4:29pm Moon phase: 0% visible

Project Manager Dan Mathers Assistant Editor Jon Roth

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Contributing Editor Jason Greenberg

ELCOME to the third issue of Brooklyn’s new food and drink magazine. We’ve been thrilled with the reception from readers and business owners in this beautiful borough and we look forward to informing and inspiring you through this holiday

sesason, and beyond. Whether you are a new or returning reader, here’s a snapshot of what’s in this issue: there are tasty things to try in the borough this weekend (pages 4 and 5); an events guide that will have you salivating (page 7); recipes for sour cream raisin pie, apple and maple bread pudding, the best mac-n-cheese ever (we’re really hyping this one), a spicy fish soup, a satisfying kale salad; a gastronomic bike tour of Brooklyn with the owner of Iris Café (page 15); the sweet history of candy-making in the borough, courtesy of our friends at Brooklyn Public Library (page 19); the story of how a modern Chinese restaurant became Brooklyn’s first Certified Green Restaurant (page 34); an interview with the woman behind the bar at Floyd (page 37)... and photographic coverage of events from a pig butchery to book launches. It all adds up to one thing – a celebration of Brooklyn’s diverse food culture... the people who produce the goods, and the people who enjoy them. That’s what makes Brooklyn Bread different from any publication you’ve ever seen. Enjoy the issue. And a happy Hanukkah, too! Danielle Franca Swift & Jack Wright

Illustrator Liza Corsillo Distribution Catherine Barreda Advertising Sales Erica Izenberg Jen Messier Contributors Brooklyn Public Library, Emily Elsen, Melissa Elsen, Cathy Erway, Sara Franklin, Sarah McColl, Laura Nuter Photographers Sara Heidinger, Justin Nunnink, Lawrence Sumulong, John Suscovich, Allen Ying Brooklyn Bread is published every Thursday by Brooklyn Bread Press P.O. Box 150026 Brooklyn, NY 11215 (917) 740-1072 www.brooklynbreadpress.com Follow us on Facebook @BrooklynBreadPress Printed on recycled paper using soy-based inks.


Thursday, December 2, 2010

BROOKLYN BREAD

Inside This Issue

A smorgasbord of photographs, advice, wisdom and wit! Things To Try This Weekend 4-5 How about a couple days filled with treats both inspiring and indulgent?

The Events Guide 7 Plenty of ways to enjoy yourself in the week ahead.

Humble Pie 8 A recipe for sour cream raisin pie, by the girls at Four and Twenty Blackbirds.

The Cheese Report 8 Laura Nuter offers the best mac-ncheese recipe in the universe!

“Baked Explorations” Book Party At Greene Grape and Greenlight Good eatin’, good readin’ p6-10

A Lily And A Loaf Of Bread 11 Sarah McColl on when food really matters.

Try This At Home! 13 Cathy Erway shows us how to enjoy the best food around... in our own homes.

A Perfect Day In Brooklyn 15 Join Rachel Graville of Iris Café as she plans a day to remember.

Adopt An Animal 17

Slow Food New York City Pig Butchery Learning the art of nose to tail eating at Brooklyn Kitchen p16-22

Three gorgeous cats need a home. Can you help?

Edible History Of Brooklyn 19 How sweet it was... candy-making giants from days gone by.

From Soil To Plate 23 Sara Franklin on the rich, green delights of kale.

What We Bought 31 We find out what the prize buys and bargains are at Brooklyn Flea.

The Joy Of Cheese Six Pack Presents The Dark Side Beer tasting at dba in Williamsburg p24-27

The Big Picture 32 Comes to you from the Kings County General Store in Park Slope.

Café Of The Week 35 A charming new series. Our first stop is Gialeti’s in Windsor Terrace.

Bartender Of The Week 37 Sarah Bernier on life at Floyd.

Brooklyn Bread Rate Card 39

Roasting Class At Ger-Nis Culinary And Herb Center

Everything you need to know!

Brushing up on the techniques of the season in Gowanus p36

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BROOKLYN BREAD

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Thursday, December 2, 2010

Tasty Things To Try This Weekend

Your fun guide to some serious eating in the wonderful borough of Brooklyn... by Jason Greenberg Turkey Leg Sandwich At Henry Public Henry Public’s antique atmosphere and excellently crafted cocktails are not the only reasons to go here. The turkey leg sandwich is also considered one of Brooklyn’s best sandwiches, period. It’s slow braised in milk for hours and when the juicy dark meat falls off the bone, it is pulled, pork style, and piled on toasty, thick Pullman slices, topped with crispy onions and pan gravy. On the side are fries and pickles. It’s so good you should have no problem ordering one so soon after Thanksgiving. Henry Public, 329 Henry Street, Cobble Hill, 718-852-8630, henrypublic.com.

Adult Cheese At The Commodore When Stephen Tanner, a veteran of both Pies ’N’ Thighs and Egg opened the Commodore last year, fried chicken was the draw. But this divey bar’s menu is more than just thighs. Don’t be fooled by the suburban basement aesthetic or the vintage video games – this is serious food. The adult cheese sandwich, a perfectly grilled cheese, brought to another level, is filled with pimento cheese and poblano peppers. Expect it to ooze out the sides with each bite. The Commodore, 366 Metropolitian Avenue, Williamsburg, 718-218-7632.

Don’t miss... Korean tacos at Oaxaca Tacqueria, above, and the adult cheese sandwich at the Commodore.

Huevos Rancheros At Get Fresh Table & Market Recently recommended by the Michelin guide and with a Snail of Approval from Slow Food NYC, Get Fresh Table and Market features items such as butter poached bay scallops, Peking duck with duck confit ravioli and prawns and polenta with poached eggs, part of the menu is clearly influenced by owner Juventinos Avila’s Mexican heritage and family. The huevos rancheros offered during weekend brunch and weekday lunch are made with “mama’s REAL homemade tortillas”, eggs over easy, heirloom beans and three salsas. No wonder the New York Times made comparisons to Alice Waters in their review. Get Fresh Table And Market, 370 5th Avenue, Park Slope, 718-360-8469, getfreshnyc.com.

Korean Taco At Oaxaca Tacqueria Now with three locations in Brooklyn, Oaxaca Tacqueria (pronounced wahaka) is exactly what you want a taco stand to be – short on the frills, but high quality food. Named after the Mexican city know for its food, Oaxaca’s tacos are of the fresh and authentic variety. The tacos topped with

avocado, pickled onion, cotija cheese and cilantro are all excellent but the Korean tacos, offered as a special, are far superior. In what can be assumed is a nod to LA’s Kogi trucks, the kalbi-marinated steak, apple and mango slaw, kimchee, and homemade Korean BBQ sauce literally bursts with flavor. Due to their popularity, it may only be a matter of time before these Korean tacos find a permanent place on the menu. Oaxaca Tacqueria, 250 4th Avenue, Park Slope, 718-2221122; 605 Prospect Place, Prospect Heights, 718638-3380, oaxacatacos.com; 251 Smith Street, Carroll Gardens, 718) 643-9630, oaxacatacos.com.

Macarons At Almondine Bakery Praised by New York magazine as one of NYC’s best bakeries, Almondine’s locations in DUMBO and Park Slope churn out wonderfully flakey croissants, baguettes and an array of delectable sweets. On a visit make sure not to miss their tasty French-style macarons. An almond-flavored meringue cookie sandwich filled with jam, Almondine offers flavors including raspberry, pistachio, chocolate, blackberry and passion fruit. They’re sweet and they’re small so they can satisfy your craving on the go. Almondine Bakery, 85 Water Street, DUMBO, 718-797-5026,


Thursday, December 2, 2010

BROOKLYN BREAD

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An extensive whiskey selection, craft beers and a great late-night menu are the highlights at Fette Sau, while the turkey leg sandwich at Henry Public is superb.

prices in Brooklyn. After you’ve enjoyed a pork braciola marinara, house-made gnochi with fresh ricotta or a braised pork shank with cranberry beans, pancetta and Tuscan kale their red wine prunes with mascarpone are not to be missed. Although it might not be the first dessert that jumps off the menu, the combination of sweet prunes, creamy dense mascarpone and hot wine, spiked with cinnamon, turns out to be an extraordinary surprise. And it’s surprisingly light, too. Frankie’s 457 Spuntino, 457 Court Street, Carroll Gardens, 718-403-0033, frankiesspuntino. com. 449 9th Street, Park Slope, 718-832-4607, almondinebakery.com.

Late-Night Menu At Fette Sau After a night out in Williamsburg, stumble over to Fette Sau for the best late-night bites in town. The folks behind Spuyten Duyvil opened Fette Sau in 2007 and are still making some of the best BBQ in New York. The menu changes frequently during dinner hours, but it’s their late-night menu that offers the best value. After 11pm, wonderfully smoky hand-pulled Berkshire pork or daily sausage sandwiches and baked beans,

all prepared in house, are available for only $5 each. The bar is open until 2am daily, offering craft beers by the pint or by the gallon and a large American whiskey selection, both of which go perfectly with BBQ. Fette Sau, 354 Metropolitan Avenue, Williamsburg, 718-963-3404, fettesaubbq.com.

Red Wine Prunes With Mascarpone At Frankie’s 457 Spuntino Recommending a dish from the Frankie’s menu is not difficult. Frank Falcinelli & Frank Castronovo are serving some of the most accessible, delicious food at modest

Macarons at Almondine, top left, and, above, huevos rancheros at Get Fresh Table & Market.


BROOKLYN BREAD

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bicycle station

Bicycle Station

Thursday, December 2, 2010

“Baked Explorations” Book Launch Party November 16 at Greene Grape and Greenlight bookstore PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALLEN YING

“The Bicycle Station is a godsend for cyclists...” Time Out New York

Kate Manecke, Hallie Falquet, Rachel Lapal

TUNE-UPS v REPAIRS RESTORATIONS v SALES Owner Mike has more than 30 years of experience in bike maintenance and care We are open through the fall and winter and offer excellent prices for off-season sales and repairs

Book authors Matt Lewis and Renato Poliafito

$45 TUNE-UPS! Get your bike tuned up and be ready to ride this spring 171 Park Avenue, corner of Adelphi 1 block from Flushing Avenue (718) 638-0300 bicycylestationbrooklyn.com Vanessa Gomez, Michael Robertson (employee greene grape)


Thursday, December 2, 2010

BROOKLYN BREAD

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The Brooklyn Food & Drink Events Guide ’Tis just about the time to indulge yourselves... here are some tips

12/1–12/8 Menorah Lightings And Latkes At Grand Army Plaza

NYC’s next cookoff king or queen. Judges include Andrew Knowlton, restaurant editor at Bon Appétit; Garrett Oliver, brewmaster at Brooklyn Brewery; and Peter Hoffman, chef/ owner of Savory and Back Forty restaurants. Tickets are $20 in advance, $25 day of event, and include tastings from over 25 home chefs. A portion of ticket sales help support Ovarian Cancer Research. Bellhouse, 149 7th Street, Gowanus, thefoodexperiments.com.

Head to Grand Army Plaza for the largest public Menorah lighting in Brooklyn! Enjoy latkes, music and gifts all week long. 12/1 and 12/2 at 6pm; 12/3 at 3:30pm; 12/4 at 7pm; 12/5-12/8 at 6pm. Grand Army Plaza, Park Slope, chabadparkslope.com

12/4 Kimchi And Korean Pancakes Class At Purple Yam Kim-chang day is an important culinary tradition in Korea. On this day, Koreans prepare for the cold winter season by making massive amounts of spicy, warming kimchi to last their family until springtime. It is usually in November, when the cabbages and radishes are harvested and the labor of making large tubs of kimchi is shared by family and friends. In this vegetarian-friendly kimchi class, you will learn to make two of the most popular radish kimchies and one brothy winter kimchi using materials that can be easily purchased from local grocery stores. To soothe your palettes after eating spicy kimchi you will finish the meal with sweet rice flour sesame balls and ginger-cinnamon tea. From 12pm to 4pm. Purple Yam, 1314 Cortelyou Road, Ditmas Park, 718-940-8188, purpleyamnyc.com.

12/4 Meet David Tanis, author of “Heart of the Artichoke and Other Kitchen Journeys” There will be a Q&A and David will sign copies for customers at the Bookcourt. There will also be some drinks and snacks for the crowd. Starts at 1pm. Bookcourt, 163 Court Street, Cobble Hill, 718-875-3677, bookcourt.org.

12/5 PS 29 to Host “Eat Pie and Shop” Fundraiser From 11am to 5pm PS 29 in Cobble Hill, will host the second annual “Eat Pie and Shop” Holiday Gift Fair and Pie Social, to benefit the school. Proceeds from this family-friendly holiday event will support the school’s PTA. The pie social is sure to be a delicious and entertaining afternoon event with local bakers – both amateurs and professionals – supplying a wide array of pies. For a $5 tasting ticket the public can sample a piece of pie of their choosing, including fruit, creamy, savory and nut pies. Bakers are invited to bring pies to be judged by parents and a panel of celebrity judges. The panel

12/7 Cupcakes Take The Cake 6th Anniversary Party

Author David Tanis will be signing books and taking part in a Q&A at Bookcourt on December 4

will include Gail Simmons, of Food & Wine magazine and Top Chef; Dannielle Kyrillos of Top Chef: Just Desserts; François Payard, coowner of François Payard Bakery, François Chocolate Bar and Payard; and Brooklyn’s Borough President, Marty Markowitz. Judging will take place at 1pm. The gift fair will highlight local artisans, craftspeople and merchants from Half Pint Citizens to handmade and classic toys from Fork & Pencil. More than 20 vendors will be displaying and selling their wares. Rooftop Films will show a selection of independent short films for kids throughout the day. Tickets to the movies are $2. To quench their thirst, kids and adults can both enjoy delicious and refreshing egg creams from Brooklyn Farmacy. For more information on the event, including a list of all vendors and information on how to enter a pie, visit eatpieandshop.org. PS 29, 425 Henry Street, Cobble Hill, eatpieandshop.org

Cupcakes Take The Cake is celebrating six years of cupcake blogging with a party at The Brooklyn Winery in Williamsburg. There will be, as you might expect, a LOT of cupcakes. Plus there will be a raffle for goodies like cookbooks, cupcake ornaments, and much more. A portion of the proceeds will go to Cancer Care. Tickets are $10. Brooklyn Winery, 213 N. 8th Street, Williamsburg, 347-7631506, bkwinery.com and cupcakestakethecake. blogspot.com.

12/9 Edible Brooklyn Presents Foodie-Music Themed Edible Pursuit At Brooklyn Brewery Enjoy the trivia game that’s inspiring (and frustrating) foodies from coast to coast. Join Edible Brooklyn magazine for the third installment of Edible Pursuit at The Brooklyn Brewery. Your $20 ticket gets you Brooklyn Brewery Beers, a tasty meat treat by The Meat Hook and rounds of music inspired by food trivia! Trivia goers will answer questions about music about food by writing down answers called out, naming video clips or recognizing music snips. Bring your cleverest friends! Tickets are $20. The Brooklyn Brewery, 79 N. 11th Street, Williamsburg, brooklynbrewery.com and ediblebrooklyn.com.

12/5 The Holiday Food Experiment: Judge A Feast For A Cause Cookoff pros Theo Peck and Nick Suarez present NYC’s premier culinary competition, the Holiday Food Experiment. New York’s top home chefs will prepare their favorite holiday inspired dishes ranging from sweet to savory. You’ll see a bevy of belt loosening, family bickering, nap-inducing recipes that have been passed down through the generations. You may even see a spiked egg nog or a giblet gravy shot. You the audience, along with esteemed culinary judges will select

Cupcakes galore at Brooklyn Winery on December 7.


BROOKLYN BREAD

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Humble Pie

TWITTER BREADCRUMBS SCRATCHbread We’re at the halfway mark for our D.O.U.G.H. campaign @kickstarter. $10 from 500 people in the next 11 days will do it: http://kck.st/ cZjZvz Nov 28th.

By Emily and Melissa Elsen, of Four and Twenty Blackbirds, 439 3rd Avenue, Gowanus

michaelpollan Another good essay on food, class and the culture wars, from Jane Black. http://p2.to/14kD Nov 27th.

AST week we talked about making pie crust in quantity. This week, something to fill the crust with. We’d like to share a recipe that has a great autumn flavor, and is easy to make in the cold months when fruits are scarce – an earthy, spiced Sour Cream Raisin Pie, a trusty hand-medown from our Grandma Liz.

MarketCortelyou Cortelyou is a veritable foodie haven. Thanks @wsj for the mention and the good photo! http://is.gd/hS5v0 Nov 27th.

L

Sour Cream Raisin Pie Makes enough filling for one pie. You’ll need one pre-baked pie shell for this recipe. Plump with hot water one generous cup of quality raisins. Drain and chop lightly. Set aside. Simmer together over low heat (careful not to scald) in a medium saucepan: 1 cup sugar 2 tbsp cornstarch 1/2 tsp salt 1tsp cinnamon 1/2 tsp nutmeg, freshly ground 1/4 tsp nloves 2 tbsp lemon juice 1 1/2 cup sour cream 1 cup milk Whisk in a medium mixing bowl two egg yolks and one whole egg. Add a little of the warm spice and sour cream mixture to the eggs to temper them. Then whisk the eggs into the sauce pan mixture and simmer over low heat until thickened as a pudding. Remove from heat and stir in the chopped raisins. Pour into baked pie shell and let stand until set. Best served with fresh whipped cream.

bkflea Flea at One Hanson Sat AND Sun every weekend now. The top one-stop gift shop, in a landmark! 10a-6p. Nov 27th. ruthreichl Whitecaps on the river. Brisk. Sweet, tiny pancakes, slather of sour cream, sparkle of bright salmon roe. Rush of flavor. Wake up! Nov 27th.

Cheese Report

By Laura Nuter, of Grab Specialty Foods, 438 7th Avenue, Park Slope

A

SHOUT-OUT to all you macn-cheese lovers in Brooklyn and beyond as I’m confident every one of us believes with absolute certainty we hold the key to THE best mac-n-cheese recipe EVER! And we’re all probably coming from the same place in that we’re just looking to share our incredible secret with our closest friends (and might just be looking for a little pat on the back). This is why I’ve chosen to share my little secret with you! The good news is the prep time is quick, the cook time not so long

Thursday, December 2, 2010

and the financial burden... not so heavy. Also, this may give you an excuse to head on over to Eataly (Disney World for the Italians) and check out their incredible pasta bar! Perhaps you will find something fancy or delightfully ordinary for this classic dish. I like the Cavatappi as it functions as a “glue-trap” for the cheese. Prep time 20 min/cook time 45 min/serves four dinner portions or six appetizer portions. 1 cup breadcrumbs (if possible use 5 slices of a freshly baked White Pullman loaf, crust removed, and dried for 2 days) 1 ½ cup Comte 1 cup cave aged Gruyere ½ cup Parmigiano-Reggiano 6 tbsp butter 1/3 cup all-purpose flour 2 cups whole milk 1 cup heavy cream 1 tbsp kosher salt Fresh ground pepper White truffle oil 1 lb dry or 1 1/2 lb fresh pasta Pre-heat oven to 350F, coarsely grate the Comte and Gruyere in a bowl and set aside. Finely grate Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese in a separate bowl, add breadcrumbs and set aside. In a large pot of boiling, salted water cook your pasta al dente, strain and set aside. In a small saucepan, melt 3 tbsp of butter over low heat. Pour over breadcrumb and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese mixture, toss together and set aside In a two-quart oven-safe skillet, melt the remaining 3 tbsp butter over low heat, slowly add the flour, whisking non-stop. Once the flour is incorporated (about 3 minutes) slowly and gradually add milk and cream, continuing to whisk non-stop. Add salt and a generous amount of pepper. Gradually add Comte and Gruyere and stir until the cheese has melted. Add pasta and fold in with wooden spoon. Top with breadcrumb mixture. Bake for 45 minutes or until crust browns. Brush top of crust with truffle oil. Let rest for 10 minutes. Devour.

Good Bread

Apple & Maple Bread Pudding From Bon Appétit 6 eggs 1/2 cup maple syrup 1/2 cup dark brown sugar 1 tbsp vanilla extract 2 tsp ground cinnamon 1/2 tsp fine sea salt 1 cup whole milk 1 cup heavy whipping cream 2 tbsp apple brandy 1 1lb rustic bread, cut 3/4- to 1-inch cubes 3 tbsp unsalted butter 2 1/2 pounds Granny Smith apples peeled, quartered, cored, cut 1/3-inch thick 1/4 cup maple syrup plus additional for brushing 1/4 cup dark brown sugar 
Whisk eggs, syrup, sugar, vanilla, cinnamon, salt in large bowl. Add milk, cream, and brandy and whisk until blended. Add bread cubes and submerge into custard. Soak 30 minutes. Position rack in bottom of oven. Preheat to 350°F. Butter 9x5x3-inch pan. Melt 3 tbsp butter over medium-high heat. Add apple, sauté until golden, stirring and turning, 10 to 12 minutes. Stir in 1/4 cup syrup, then sugar. Simmer until sugar dissolves and thickens to syrup, about 1 minute. Remove. Mix half of apple into bread custard mixture. Transfer bread pudding mixture to pan. Arrange remaining apple atop pudding. Spoon syrup from pan over apple. Place loaf pan on baking sheet. Bake pudding until puffed and cracked on top, apples are brown, and center registers about 180°F (1 hour 30 minutes). Remove and rest at room temperature up to 1 hour. Brush apples with syrup. Serve warm or at room temperature.


Thursday, December 2, 2010

BROOKLYN BREAD

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“Baked Explorations” Book Launch Party November 16 at Greene Grape and Greenlight bookstore in Fort Greene

David Lazala, Ken Williams

Nicole Jerabek, Carolina Paula

Lenni Wolff, Lexi Adams

Jessica Daniel, Chris Meierling

Joyce Tang, Kristina Peterson

Maya Sigel, Devorah Lev-tov

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALLEN YING... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072

The ONE-STOP SHOP for a greener home & life

Green in BKLYN invites you to stop in for holiday gifts and a chance to win a little something… Enter our second annual drawing for the 2010

Green (in BKLYN) Gift Basket with eco-friendly gifts and treats worth at least $201.00. Spend at least $20.10 before 2011 and you’re in!

Green in BKLYN

432 Myrtle Ave (b/w Clinton & Waverly) www.greeninbklyn.com 718-855-4383 Holiday hours: Tue to Fri 11-8 Ÿ Sat 10-8 Ÿ Sun 11-6


BROOKLYN BREAD

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Thursday, December 2, 2010

“Baked Explorations” Book Launch Party November 16 at Greene Grape and Greenlight bookstore in Fort Greene

Matt Holbein, Stephanie Felton

Naomi Hanson, Stephanie Porto

Robert Rubin, Erika Swyler

Brian Yanish, Candice Crawford, Zack DeZon

Julia Böhme, Sonia Böhme

Daryl Ellerbe, Jessica Stockton-Bagnulo

Megan Senior, Alexandra Batsford

Mei Chin, Britta Blodgett

Jay Honstetter

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALLEN YING... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072


BROOKLYN BREAD

Thursday, December 2, 2010

Page 11

A Lily And A Loaf Of Bread More with less... by Sarah McColl

L

ET me share with you a thought I had the other day that might, especially given the publication you’ve picked up, be a bit controversial: I don’t think food is inherently interesting. Okay, I can feel you bristling from here. Perhaps you are entranced by romanesco broccoli (it is a gloriously strange sight, I’ll grant you that), or wish you could sit down across from a bottle of pomegranate molasses and hear the tales it could tell. I feel you; I’ve swooned over a honeycrisp apple or two in my day. But I decided the other afternoon, while walking down a stretch of Sixth Avenue littered with yellow leaves, that food isn’t interesting at all. Hear me out. What is interesting to me – evenly endlessly fascinating – is what food can do. Food brings people together to sit, and if we are feeling amiable and jolly (which food can do, too), to chat. Food can act as a salve to whatever indignities the day ushers in. Think of beans and greens soup, drizzled with olive oil, served on a cold and

rainy night when we’ve just walked in the door with wet shoes. Food even provides fun. Feeling bored and too lazy to leave the house? I see some homemade chocolate chip cookies and milk-dunking in your future! Perhaps most of all lately, I’ve been thinking about the ways food serves to comfort us, and how we use food to take good care of ourselves. Nigella Lawson admits to turning to a bowl of ground beef topped with shredded cheese when the world presses in too close. Julie Powell eased a broken heart with garlic soup. Many of us are likely turn

to our mother’s recipes, no matter how out of fashion, to set ourselves right again. The affront a good deal of us are struggling with now is money and the lack of it. Things are getting better, they say, and that is some comfort, no matter how cold, and whoever “they” may be. But the greatest relief to the particular pains of an empty purse is feeling yourself armed with recipes that make something out of practically nothing. It’s a time for hauling out Fanny Farmer and that old Mennonite gem More-With-Less. Given our druthers, perhaps we wouldn’t eat these humble meals made from canned tomatoes and egg noodles. Maybe we wouldn’t bake our own bread to save a few dollars. But there is a prideful comfort to knowing that we can get by armed with a cadre of alchemic recipes and scoutish selfsufficiency. We can take care of ourselves no matter how little we have or what comes our way. That’s not only interesting, it’s an inspiration.

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Thursday, December 2, 2010

The (Makers) Market At The Old American Can Factory Saturday, November 20 in Gowanus

Wendy Wheeler Smith of Soul House Kitchen

Danielle Di Vecchio of Biscotti Di Vecchio

Simon Tung of Macaron Parlour

Liz Barkley of Brown Bag Bakery

Natalia Porter of Wits Productions

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JUSTIN NUNNINK... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072

Copies of this magazine get snapped up fast... But do NOT panic, dear reader. If you cannot find a copy of Brooklyn Bread at your favorite food and drink establishment, book shop or other fine store, you can read every single page of Brooklyn Bread online.

Just visit brooklynbreadpress.com


BROOKLYN BREAD

Thursday, December 2, 2010

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Try This At Home!

Inspired by Brooklyn’s finest culinary creations, Cathy Erway tries them out in her own kitchen

I

Chengdu Fish Soup, as inspired by Grand Szechuan House

F IT weren’t for the numbing-hot crushed peppercorns swimming on top, or the lumps of fresh tofu and white fish sunken at the bottom, I probably would have never warmed up to the perils of biking to 87th Street in Bay Ridge from North Park Slope in the heat of midsummer. The Chengdu fish soup, a homestyle dish at Grand Szechuan House, is actually a little like the ride there itself: it’s colorful and claustrophobic, and induces a heavy sweat. Drizzled with red chile oil, topped with crushed peanuts and sodden with sponges of Napa cabbage, it – and the ride down 5th Avenue required – quickly became a favorite adventure since my days of returning to eat out in New York. So naturally, I had to at least attempt to make it at home. I’ll warn that the version I managed to come up with is slightly different from the authentic soup at Grand Szechuan House. But as is, it’s a spicy and incredibly soothing fish stew, and it’s fun and easy enough to throw together. The restaurant, which has gained small fame through the years, is one of those notso-rare gems of Brooklyn: an honest, unassuming and honestly good invocation of a distinct cuisine. In the case of Szechuan, this involves fiery dried chiles in almost everything and a lurking note of Szechuan peppercorns for that signature numbing heat. Both are easy to find in Asian markets, especially in Sunset Park. If you have trouble finding the latter, just say its name –“Ma la” – to a salesperson in something approaching a shouting voice. Aside from the spices, this dish consists of fish, tofu and Napa cabbage, essentially. It’s possible to score all three at the Greenmarket, picking out a firm fillet of white-fleshed fish from Blue Moon Seafood or Pura Vida Fisheries, and the tofu homemade from D&J Organics farm. Napa or “Chinese” cabbage is easy to find. Whatever you do, don’t make this soup just for one, as it’s meant to be slurped up, and sweated over, communally. I’ve made the mistake of ordering it at Grand Szechuan House with just one other, while it’s portioned for six to eight, and we burned our faces off.

Fiery and satisfying – the Chengdu Fish Soup from Grand Szechuan House in Bay Ridge is worth the trip, but you can also try making it at home. Photograph by the author

Spicy Chengdu Fish Soup inspired by dish at Grand Szechuan House serves four to six ½ - 1 lb white-fleshed fish fillets (such as cod, halibut, hake or flounder), cut to 2-inch pieces 1 block firm tofu, cut to 2-inch pieces about ½ lb Napa cabbage, chopped to 2-inch pieces 2-3 small dried red chiles, chopped 1-inch piece of ginger, skinned and cut to matchsticks 2 scallions, chopped ½ bunch cilantro, chopped 2 tablespoons roasted peanuts, crushed 4 cups vegetable or seafood stock (can be made with the fish heads and bones if you buy them whole) 1 cup rice wine 1 tablespoon rice vinegar 4-5 tablespoons Asian red chile oil 1 tablespoon Szechuan peppercorns

Heat a large, heavy-bottomed pan and toast the Szechuan peppercorns for a couple minutes when it’s hot, stirring occasionally, until fragrant. Remove from heat and crush with a mortar and pestle, or spice grinder. Set aside. In the same pot, heat the chile oil and add the ginger and dried chiles. Cook, stirring, a minute or two, until fragrant. Add the Napa cabbage and cook for a minute, stirring. Add the rice wine and bring to a boil. Add the stock, vinegar and tofu. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook about 10 minutes, or until cabbage is well softened. Taste for seasoning, and add salt as desired. Add the fish and cook 2-3 minutes or until pieces are just cooked through. Transfer to a serving bowl if desired and garnish with the Szechuan peppercorn, scallions, cilantro and crushed peanuts on top. Cathy Erway is the author of The Art Of Eating In, published by Gotham Books, and of the blog Not Eating Out In New York (www.noteatingoutinny.com). She hosts the weekly radio show, Let’s Eat In, on Heritage Radio Network.


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The (Makers) Market At The Old American Can Factory Saturday, November 20 in Gowanus PHOTOGRAPHS BY JUSTIN NUNNINK

Carrie Luckner Zimmerman of Petit Paris

Marc Schreiner of Mos Atelier

Rebecca Pedinotti of Park Slope Market

Anton Nocito of P&H Soda

Keishon Johnson of Pure Goodies

Deborah Brenner of Las Delicias


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My Perfect Brooklyn Day Some of Rachel Graville’s favorite things

Iris Café owner Rachel Graville’s perfect day is a food-driven bike odyssey, taking her from Red Hook to Sunset Park and points in between. Photograph by Justin Nunnink

W

HEN I’m not working at Iris Café, I like to pack a lot of eating in! I live in Red Hook and if I don’t make coffee at home, I’ll go to Brew Bar at Stumptown Roastery (weekends only 10am-5pm). They have a beautiful new tasting room where you can try various brew methods (Chemex, Melita pour over, vacuum press, aero pot, V60, and French Press), and all the coffees they roast are available. There’s so much to learn and the baristas are very knowledgeable. After coffee, I’m ready for breakfast and I ride a few blocks down to Fort Defiance. We have regulars at our café, and Fort Defiance is one of the few places I frequent on a regular basis. I like the breakfast roll with egg and cheese (it’s what people are always asking for at Iris Café but we don’t fry anything). Also, I make a Cobb salad at Iris but it’s atypical. I read that Cobb salad is named after a Chef Cobb, (who made an “everything but the kitchen sink” salad), so really, anything goes. But Fort Defiance’s is classic, in a huge bowl, with bacon, blue cheese, chicken, avocado, and tomato. I eat that with maybe a Gingerade or a Bloody Mary with Aquavit, depending if it’s

late enough in the day to start drinking. Then I might have to stop in at the café, in Brooklyn Heights, so I’d use the excuse to have lunch at the counter at Mile End. Noah and Rae are popular for their smoked meat and poutine, but while the hot dog at Mile End is the best I’ve ever had, it is the bun that is a scene stealer. There is no better lunch. Well, maybe with a whitefish salad and a bagel and red onion, if they have any left after breakfast. I drink the Boylan’s Seltzer or a beer. I ride a bike all year round, but beautiful weather makes me want to ride further. I’d get on and ride up the hill toward the park where I’d stop in to see Justin or Tricia at Beer Table. The beer, pork belly, and pickled eggs are all delicious, but Justin is a food dehydrating fanatic like me… so I like to see what new things he has tried drying. When I can, I have Gerald Jerky (it goes great with beer, and Justin is the one who inspired me to start making beef jerky). Once fueled with a stellar beer and a snack or two, I’m ready to head into the park. I like to cut through Prospect Park on my way to Ditmas Park, where it is almost impossible to choose where to eat. I love Farm on Adderly and Mimi’s Hummus. Haunting me

lately is the goat curry at Purple Yam, so I’d have that and maybe a drink at Sycamore. Iris Café used to be a flower shop, so I’m partial to the idea of a bar/flower shop. Then I’d make my way back and circle the rest of the way around the park. If I didn’t have to wake up early the next day (rare anymore!), I’d continue the loop and exit the park in the direction of Sunset Park. I’ve lived in many parts of Mexico, and my favorite tacos in Sunset Park are those found at Tacos El Bronco, a truck on 5th Avenue and 43rd Street, convenient to the Melody Lanes Bowling Alley, in case you’re into that kind of thing. Late-night tacos (any night but Wednesdays) are best here, and my favorite are the chorizo tacos. The first time I went, I had three tacos (lengua, carne asada, and chorizo). After I finished the three, I went back and ordered three more chorizo. Yes, they are that good. After all that eating, I’d be ready to go home, but a nice invigorating ride back from Sunset Park would wake me up. I’d stop into Palo Cortado on Court Street on the way home for a sherry at the bar. The food is delicious, but I’m pretty sure I just wouldn’t be able, and a nightcap would have to suffice.


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fresh pastries artisanal breads desserts custom cakes

448 atlantic avenue, boerum hill 718.246.2402 Ÿ bettybakery.com

Thursday, December 2, 2010

Slow Food New York City Pig Butchery: Nose To Tail Eating Sunday, November 14 at the Brooklyn Kitchen PHOTOGRAPHS BY LAWRENCE SUMULONG

Server Alyssa Michael

Tue-Fri 7:30-7 Ÿ Sat 9-7 Ÿ Sun 11-5

Dennis Spina of Roebling Tea Room, Caroline Fidanza of Saltie

A café firmly in the “Great European tradition”, “serving NY’s best coffee” in the “most articulate space around” – according to its cult following of creative directors and writers.

Café Regular

318a 11th Street, Brooklyn Sun-Wed 7am-7pm Thu-Sat 7am-8pm

Café Regular du Nord 158a Berkeley Place, Brooklyn Sun-Sat 7am-8pm

John Karasiewicz, Tom Mylan


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Enrich Your Life... Adopt An Animal

Three beautiful creatures need loving homes... call BARC at 718-486-7489 or email info@barcshelter.org

«

THELMA was a stray who was brought to us by a Good Samaritan. We think she’s probably had a tough time on the street because she’s skinny and shows signs of having had a recent litter of kittens, and she appears very grateful to be safely indoors. She’s keeping her paws crossed that someone will take her home soon and spoil her rotten!

«

MRS. SKEFFINGTON is an absolute dear, a sweet beauty who was given up by her owner. Mrs. Skeffington has plenty of love to give and would like nothing better than a quiet home and a warm lap to cuddle up on.

«

STATLER is a fairly shy guy and is just getting used to ending up in a shelter – he had a comfortable home before his owner recently passed away. He has a very nice disposition and could use some human TLC so if you visit, be sure to give him some scratches and cuddles!

your local destination for all sweet treats WE CAN BE FOUND AT BROOKLYN’S WEEKLY ARTISTS & FLEAS MARKET FROM 12-8PM ARTISANAL “SPIRITED” COOKIES AND SEASONAL FRUIT TARTS ARE OUR SPECIALTIES

FOLLOW US ON FACEBOOK FOR CONTINUOUS HOLIDAY UPDATES FACEBOOK.COM/BROWNBAGBAKERY.BBB

LET US CATER YOUR HOLIDAY PARTY CONTACT US FOR MORE INFORMATION LIZ@BROWNBAGBAKERYNYC.COM


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An Edible History Of Brooklyn

A highly nutritious, fascinating series in collaboration with Brooklyn Public Library

T

ODAY our craving for sweets is satisfied by factories all over the world. But up until just a few decades ago, many of my favorite treats would have been produced in Brooklyn. The Just Born company, home of those cute marshmallow peeps, has only been located in Pennsylvania since 1932. Just Born’s founder, Russian immigrant Sam Born, got his start with a small shop in Brooklyn. You could find candy-making under several headings in the Trow Business directories of the late 19th and early 20th centuries: Chocolate & Cocoa, Chewing Gum and Confectioners (wholesale). A total of 28 businesses were listed within these categories in the 1898 edition. This number increased to 92 by 1912. Only one chewing gum company was listed in the 1898 directory: Adams & Sons of 156 Sands Street. Thomas Adams has been called the “father of chewing gum.” Mr. Adams’ use of chicle caused him to name his product Chiclets, which were manufactured in Brooklyn until 1903, when his sons moved the business to Newark. Adams built a mansion at 8th Avenue and Carroll Street. Chiclets weren’t the only form of gum made in Brooklyn. The women in the image

Working at the Federal Chewing Gum plant at Bush Terminal, Sunset Park Photograph by Edward E. Rutter

above are hard at work at the Federal Chewing Gum plant in Sunset Park’s Bush Terminal. Also manufacturing at Bush Terminal until 1965 was The Topps Company, creators of Bazooka Joe and baseball cards; its corporate offices remained there until 1994. One legendary staple in Brooklyn’s sugary past was Barton’s Bonbonniere, better known as Barton’s Candy. Barton’s was established in 1938 by Viennese immigrant

Barton’s Bonbonierre employees on DeKalb Avenue in this photograph taken from the “Brooklyn Eagle”

Stephen Klein. During the height of its production, the 1950s, Barton’s had three kosher manufacturing plants in Brooklyn. The main plant was at 80 DeKalb Avenue. Not far from the old Barton’s site, at 315 Vanderbilt Avenue, you can find a building labeled “Candy and Confectionery Workers Local 452.” This location for the local candymaking union headquarters opened in April 1947. At that time, the union represented 4,200 workers, many of whom lived and worked in Brooklyn. As with many of Brooklyn’s industries, the competition for more space, cheaper labor, easier shipping and larger markets caused most of Brooklyn’s local confectioners to either leave or close shop by the late 20th century. Today, Brooklynites continue the candy tradition, albeit on a smaller scale. Most notable is Mr. Chocolate himself, Jacques Torres, whose chocolate factory has been producing truffles, bars and sinfully good hot chocolate since 2000. But Torres is not alone. I recently had a maple pecan bar from Williamsburg’s Mast Brothers that put my mass-produced holiday favorites to shame. These smaller businesses may not ever grow into the great Brooklyn candy businesses of the past, but they are a reminder of Brooklyn’s heritage in all things chocolatey, sugary and sweet. LESLIE SHOPE


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Slow Food New York City Pig Butchery: Nose To Tail Eating November 14 at the Brooklyn Kitchen PHOTOGRAPHS BY LAWRENCE SUMULONG

Server Adrienne Haeberle

Teri Jover, Gary Kaplan, Matthew Haeberle

Alyssa Michael, Nanda Graham


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Four & Twenty Blackbirds

This must be where pies go when they die Four & Twenty Blackbirds 439 3rd Avenue at 8th Street Gowanus, Brooklyn www.birdsblack.com

Pie by the slice in the shop, whole pies are made to order. Please call to order: tel 718.499.2917

Closed Mondays Tuesday to Friday: 8am–7pm Saturday: 9am–7pm Sunday: 10am–6pm


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Thursday, December 2, 2010

Slow Food New York City Pig Butchery: Nose To Tail Eating Sunday, November 14 at the Brooklyn Kitchen

Adrienne Haeberle, Leigh Power Sherry

Lyle Tick

John Karasiewicz, Jennifer Mazza

Kathy Horchak-Andino

Rodney Benson

Gary Kaplan, Matthew Haeberle

John Karasiewicz, Tom Mylan

Alice Tai, Anna Kaplan-Seem

Gabriela Falquez, Mario DiBiase

PHOTOGRAPHS BY LAWRENCE SUMULONG... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072


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From Soil To Plate

T

HE whispers of winter are upon us. Maybe some of us are run down, stressed out, and moping about the shorter days. But this time of year, I find much to revel in. With early evenings come more excuses to cook – who doesn’t want to turn in early after work and spend the nights at home, clad in woolen socks and sweaters? More than any other time of year, I find myself hosting during the month of December. As old friends descend on the city to enjoy the festive season or to visit family, I find that my kitchen becomes a haven and a salon of sorts, always open for business, filled with warmth, comforting aromas and good conversation. With the increased interest in local foods, I’ve heard many Brooklynites question the feasibility of eating northeastern crops through the cold seasons. I take a great deal of pleasure in a diet based on root crops, veggies and preserves I put up over the summer, beans, grains and bits of meat here and there from the deep freeze. But I’m not immune to cravings for crisp, verdant salads during the

The weekly green report by Sara Franklin winter, that crunch and snap fulfilling some deep visceral need for things reminiscent of the vibrancy of the growing season. So I’m thrilled that one of my favorite crops, kale, is able to grow virtually year-round. In my garden, we just pulled up our summer kale. And though, in a chaotic mess of a fall, we didn’t get around to seeding our fall kale, I peer with envy into community garden plots around the Borough that are still teeming with the crinkly dark green leaves. Kale is perhaps one of the easiest greens to grow, and gives incredible bang for its buck. You can either direct seed the plants a foot to 18” apart, or start them in trays (or purchase starts from the farmers’ market) and then transplant them into good potting soil. Kale grows well anywhere with good sunlight, and I have had luck with it in settings ranging from window boxes and five-gallon buckets to the long rows I used to tend for a living. Allow your kale to grow to maturity – Lacinato or dinosaur kale will grow to about a foot tall, while Red Russian and the common green kale can grow up to two feet tall and nearly as

wide in leaf-span – before beginning to harvest. Then snap off leaves, starting with those closest to the root. The plant will continue to produce as long as it’s regularly harvested, cleaned of yellowing leaves, watered and occasionally fertilized, for up to eight months. Sara’s Everyday Kale Salad Though this salad is a favorite all year round, as it can serve as a side as well as a sandwich filling, pizza topping or garnish to a burger, I find it especially satisfying in deep winter, when fresh greens are more difficult to get. 1 bunch Lacinator/dinosaur kale, cut into thin strips good extra virgin olive oil 2-5 cloves garlic, minced (depending on your penchant for heat) red pepper flakes, to taste juice of 1 lemon Parmesean or other hard cheese, grated Toss ingredients together. Season with salt and pepper. Can be served immediately, but flavor deepens significantly if allowed to marinate, covered, for a few hours. Allow to come to room temperature before serving.

BLANC&ROUGE “Excellent, wide-ranging selection, high end to low.” – NEW YORK TIMES

Organic and biodynamic selections Wine tastings every Wednesday Free delivery with no minimum purchase within DUMBO and Brooklyn Heights. Delivery elsewhere in Brooklyn and Manhattan is free for orders over $200 81 Washington Street, DUMBO 718-858-9463 Visit our online store at brwines.com


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Thursday, December 2, 2010

The Joy Of Cheese Six Pack Presents The Dark Side Tuesday, November 16 at dba, Williamsburg PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH

Bartender Chellise Michael

Chris Molanphy, Viviane Valvezau

Allison Beck, David F. Slone, Esq.


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Kings County General Store Saturday, November 20 in Park Sloope

Jillian Roghe of Jillery by Jill Fagin

Jennifer Sweeney of City Mouse Houseware Kemba Bloodworth, owner of The Meat Market

Andrea Cobb of Natural Abstract

Michelle Otis of Mufflin Jewelry

Chloe Chapman of It’s A Bird, Bird World greeting cards

Akiko Nishimura of Akiko’s Cookies

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JUSTIN NUNNINK... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072

“In a café-crazed town, Iris is one of a kind.” “Best Café” in 2010 “Best of New York” issue, New York magazine Stumptown coffee ¯ Pastries, cookies and biscuits, all baked in-house All-day breakfast classics ¯ Sandwiches ¯ Salads For full menu and more details, visit us online at www.iriscafenyc.com 20 Columbia Place, b/w State & Joralemon | Brooklyn Heights | 718-722-7395 No computers or iPads please – take some time out from the real world!


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Thursday, December 2, 2010

A Saturday Afternoon At Brooklyn Flea November 20 in Fort Greene

Richard Chamblin, Kyle Chamblin

Michael Yong, Grace Tang

Jonathan Kennell, Emily Shek

Lourina McQuilkin, Sen Rasichanh

Andie Cusich, LukeGrism

Michaell Heilman, Rikke Anderson

Jamie McDole, Sedef Everest

Whitney Hamilton, JT Hamilton

Sam Nixon, Leah Kasell

Niki Haas, Pam Colon

Phyllis Bobb from Reclaimed Home

Jessyca Spilkane, Lisa Jakuc

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072


Thursday, December 2, 2010

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The Joy Of Cheese Six Pack Presents The Dark Side

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Gowanus Canal 16ft

Tuesday, November 16 at dba, Williamsburg PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH

Mediterranean 7,280ft

Ojes Tejani, Aeden Motnyk

Indian 25,344ft

atlantic 28,232ft Dawn Parness, Aaron Parness

Pacific 35,797ft

Oddhero.com Graphic prints, made in Brooklyn with genius Ray Deter discusses the beer pairings


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Thursday, December 2, 2010

A Saturday Afternoon At Brooklyn Flea November 20 in Fort Greene

Lauryn Gerstle, Doug Brooks, Lindsay Newman

Hannah Zimmerman, Earl Zimmerman, Will Zimmerman

Ebon Charles from Amaya Designs

Amy Lapierre from Birdhouse Jewelry

Jen Endozo, Dilara Kiran, Alex Restivo

Sherline Willis, Melissa Johnson of Chippy Frames

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072


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What We Bought At Brooklyn Flea We mingle with the shoppers at the last outdoor market of the season

Martin Satryb, 45, art director, Fort Greene. Bought rap, electronic and disco records.

Clare Osborne, 34, designer, London, with her friend Cara Johnson. Bought knit jumpers for design inspiration and personal pleasure.

Sandra Klaus, 56, insurance worker, Williamsburg. Bought: Depression-era glass.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072

Vinyasa Yoga Open Level Classes Beginners Tweens 39 Wyckoff Street between Court and Smith www.cobblehillyoga.com


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THE BIG PICTURE Checking out the goods at Kings County General Store in Park Slope. More photos on page 25. Photograph by Justin Nunnink

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Thursday, December 2, 2010

How To Make Your Restaurant Green

Michael & Ping’s is Brooklyn’s first Certified Green Restaurant... co-owner Mike Bruno explains the process

W

E’VE worked really hard over the last year and a half in building our restaurant, Michael & Ping’s, to earn the Green Restaurant Association’s Certified Green Restaurant status. I know what you’re thinking, “Wait, who’s the Green Restaurant Association? And what does it mean to be certified?” I didn’t really know what that was either when I started thinking about the concept we had for a modern chinese takeout. I just knew that there had to be a way to make our restaurant more efficient and to have less of an impact on the environment. So it was on to what I knew best… Google! It landed me on the Green Restaurant Association’s website. I quickly learned that they were a national non-profit that had developed a system for helping restaurants become environmentally responsible. So off I was, on a mission to earn 100 points distributed among six categories: Water Efficiency, Waste Reduction & Recycling, Sustainable Food, Energy, Disposables and Chemical/Pollution Reduction. Building a restaurant is a daunting process in itself, so adding the environmental component was a challenge, but the GRA’s system and consultant made it easier. So as we made decisions throughout the building process, we evaluated where we could earn points, and ultimately took steps to become more environmentally efficient. Without boring everyone with all of the details, I thought it would be interesting to highlight some key steps we have taken and how they compare with the traditional measures in place today. Installing energy-efficient hand dryers in bathrooms Besides drying your hands in about 10 seconds, these dryers save us from buying paper towels. A typical fast food restaurant uses one ton of paper towels per year. To make one ton of paper towels, 7,000 gallons of water are polluted, 17 full grown trees are cut down, 464 gallons of oil and 42 gallons of gasoline are burned. Since paper towels can not be recycled, three yards of landfill waste are then created after use. Yikes! Compost pickup Restaurants produce an enormous amount of food waste. Instead of that waste taking up space in a landfill with no function whatsoever, composting is a great way to recycle that food back into farms and other facilities.

Mike Bruno outside Brooklyn’s first Certified Green Restaurant, in Gowanus. Photograph by Justin Nunnink

Re-usables for dine-in customers How much waste does a casual take-out restaurant like McDonald’s produce? I wish I had the answer, but think about it for a moment. Every time a customer eats in, they are given multiple wrappers, cups, sauce containers and so on. That all gets thrown away. We didn’t want to continue that trend, so our dine-in customers get a re-usable plate, silverware, cup etc. Couple that with our compost pick-up for food waste, and there is

practically nothing that goes to the landfill! This process has really made me realize that as consumers we should be encouraging all restaurants and business to look at their carbon footprints and explore ways to reduce it. Michael & Ping’s is located at 437 Third Avenue (near 9th Street), Gowanus, 718-788-0017. For more information on the Green Restaurant Association, visit dinegreen.com.


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Café Of The Week We visit Gialeti’s Café, in Windsor Terrace

Skateboards Flowers Dry-Goods

FEATURED DRINK: Gialeti’s Café owners, Gia Noonan and Lety Sas, recommend the Pumpkin Caramel Latte, made with whole milk, cinnamon and pumpkin spice plus caramel made in-house. Served with a slice of Gialeti’s Granny Smith apple pie.

533 Park Place Prospect Heights 718.789.8889

Brooklyn Wine Enthusiasts & Lovers Of Great Cocktails

THE CUSTOMERS: Isaih Qualls, five (and a half); Ella, six; Claudia, six; Isa Herrera, 42; Selina Alko, 42. We gave Selina the Brooklyn Bread inquisition... «Occupation? Children’s book illustrator and author. «What brings you here? I’m accompanying my son for an after-school hot cocoa. «What were you thinking about before we interrupted you? I was thinking about the craft fair at Public School 10 on Saturday, December 11.

JOIN OUR NEW AND EXCITING MEET-UP GROUP Where wine enthusiasts meet cocktail lovers! NETWORKING Ø CHATTING Ø FLIRTING See you online! tinyurl.com/bklynsippers


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Thursday, December 2, 2010

Roasting Class At Ger-Nis Culinary And Herb Center Thursday, November 11 in Gowanus

Whitney Richardson (Culinary Asst.), Tina

Chun Wong, Nga Wong

Nathalie Taveras, Floritza Santos

Shirley, Michael, Tammy

Lyn Tucker, Jane Mak

Gregory McCann, Wendy Blake

Pearce Thompson, Samantha Jimenez

Pearce Thompson, Florita Santos, Nathalie Taveras, Wendy Blake

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072


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Bartender Of The Week Sarah Bernier from Floyd, in Brooklyn Heights

The secret to bartending? “You need to have a sense of urgency without looking like you’re moving hurriedly,” says Sarah Bernier. Photograph by Justin Nunnink

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ATHER your mates and catch the latest Champions League fixtures, grab a few friends for a game of bocce, or just turn up at the bar for a beer – no matter the reason, you should be making your way to Floyd. With an indoor bocce court, and a rustic appeal, Floyd is a charming, cozy and sporty bar. We chatted to bartender Sarah Bernier, 34, from Narragansett, Rhode Island. How long have you been working at Floyd? I have been here almost three years. What drinks are selling most right now? Maker’s Eights. It’s a specialty drink made with a standard pour of Maker’s Mark and topped off with Ale 8, which is this great, spicy ginger ale made in Kentucky. What do you WISH you were serving the most of? Fresh, refreshing ginger drinks – but that’s really not our thing. I’m not a very good drinker, so I take my drinks with lots of juices, and I love ginger. If someone steps up to the bar and asks you to “make them a shot,” what do you serve? First you have to assess your client – are they a “woo” girl or some guy. I always ask

them what they normally drink, but most of the time if they are asking you for something, they are looking for a drink that’s sweet and easy. I usually serve them up a shot of Absolut Kurant with a splash of sour and cranberry. What do you call that? [Laughing] I don’t. What is the most annoying thing that a customer can ask of a bartender? When someone steps up to the bar and says, “Ahhh, I don’t know what I want, make me a drink.” If you don’t know what you want, I definitely don’t. It is really difficult to just jump straight into someone’s palette. What qualities do you think are most important in a bar? A good vibe, music, lights. I don’t care for specialty places that serve amazing specialty drinks, but the bartenders aren’t friendly. I would rather go somewhere that the bar staff makes you feel welcome. What qualities do you think are most important in a bartender? Has to have a good attitude, be down-to-earth, friendly and fast. It’s like a good diner waitress: You need to have a sense of urgency without looking like you’re moving hurriedly. It’s not just all about if you can make a good cocktail.

If you’re not at Floyd, where do you go for a drink? I really like this place Bocca Lupo, even though it’s more a restaurant than a bar. They have this delicious blueberry mojito, and it doesn’t hurt that they’re just around the corner from Floyd. What is your favorite stop for dinner? There is this great Indian place a couple blocks over on Smith Street called Raga. They have an amazing sag paneer that just makes me want to cry because I know that it will have to end. Are you a competitive bocce player? I’m not. I’m just a competitive spectator. I like the people who really enjoy it – they make T-shirts and put a lot of effort into the sport. I always find myself supporting them. From the outside looking in, would you say people get better at bocce as they drink? Oh, absolutely. They get much better. And I’m not just saying that to sell more drinks – it’s tried and true. I would rather people didn’t drink TOO much, because once they get too drunk they’re really not doing me any good. Floyd, 131 Atlantic Avenue, Brooklyn Heights, 718-858-5810, floydny.com.


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Thursday, December 2, 2010

“Growing Roots” Book Reading With Katherine Leiner Saturday, November 13 at Word bookstore in Greenpoint

Annie Novak, author Katherine Leiner

Lisa Pertoso, Mardi Miskit

Stephanie Anderson, Jenn Northington

Laura Cline, Kate Cahill

Jenn Northington, Andrew Lipton

Katherine Lock

PHOTOGRAPHS BY SARA HEIDINGER... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072

«Dog Habitat Rescue, founded in 2009, is the newest member of the Mayor’s Alliance for NYC’s Animals. «Working with 150 Alliance Participating Organizations to increase adoptions from Animal Care and Control shelters and transform New York City into a no-kill community by 2015.

Dog Habitat Rescue at Unleash: Brooklyn 216 Franklin Street 718.395.2298 rescue@doghabitat.org


BROOKLYN BREAD

Thursday, December 2, 2010

Page 39

Every Thursday, 7,000 copies of BROOKLYN BREAD are delivered to 300 selected food and drink establishments in the wonderful borough of Brooklyn. AD SIZE

The “One-Night Stand” rate (one issue only)

The “I Dig You, Let’s See Where This Goes” Rate

The “Let’s Take This To The Next Level” Rate

(at least four issues) You save: 10%

(at least eight issues) You save: 20%

Full Page

$200

$180 ..................$160

Half Page

$130

$117...................$104

Quarter Page

$80

$72

....$64

Eighth Page

$50

$45

....$40

Sixteenth Page

$30

$27

....$24

DEADLINE Must reserve space and provide copy by Thursday at 3pm for the following week’s issue. Rates are per week and include ad design.

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Ad Specifications

SIZE DIMENSIONS Full Page.................6.8” wide x 9.2” tall Half Page.........................3.3” wide x 9.2” tall or 6.8” wide x 4.5” tall Quarter Page...........3.3” wide x 4.5” tall Eighth Page.............3.3” wide x 2.2” tall Sixteenth Page.........1.6” wide x 2.2” tall

TO PLACE AN AD IN BROOKLYN BREAD, CONTACT: advertise@brooklynbreadpress.com « Or call (917) 740-1072


market_ad_brooklynbread_101126.pPage 1 11/26/2010 7:27:58 PM


Brooklyn Bread 12/2/10 Vol. 1 No. 3