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BROOKLYN

BREAD Good Food News « Delivered Fresh

INSIDE...

Our Favorite Things To Try PAGES 4-6

THE FEBRUARY ISSUE, 2011 « Vol. 2, No. 1 « Free Publication « Brooklyn, NY

My Perfect Day... By George Weld PAGE 15

Big Plans At Brooklyn Brewery PAGES 38-39

Pervaiz Shallwani, Rachel Wharton and Annaliese Griffin at How to Pickle, Jar and Ferment, an event held by Edible Brooklyn and Brooklyn Brewery on Wednesday, January 19 – see pages 31-36 for more. Photograph by Andrew St. Clair

A Chat With Abigail Of Fort Defiance PAGE 57

Please do NOT pick up this FREE paper unless you want to be inspired and informed by Brooklyn food and drink. Happy Valentine’s Day!


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Win A $50 Gift Certificate!

BROOKLYN BREAD

From The Editors

February, 2011

Our Team Editor Danielle Franca Swift Editor Jack Wright

WHILE you are poring over the pages of Brooklyn Bread, you will have the chance to win a $50 gift certificate for a healthy and delicious meal at Sun in Bloom. How come? Because we have sneakily hidden a happy little sun in one of the ads in this issue. It’s a smaller version of the guy above. When you have located the piece of clip art, enter our contest by sending an email to: hello@brooklynbreadpress. com. Tell us on which page and in which ad the clip art is hidden. Make sure you write CLIP ART CONTEST in the subject line, and also make sure you give us your name and address. A winner will be selected utterly at random on the third week in February, and the name of that lucky person will be printed in the next issue of Brooklyn Bread, and also posted on our Facebook page, and on Twitter. Sun in Bloom is located at 460 Bergen Street, Brooklyn. For more chances to win gift certificates from local merchants, check our Facebook page and Twitter account regularly!

Contributing Editors Bec Couche, Jason Greenberg Assistant Editors Dan Mathers, Jon Roth

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ELCOME back to Brooklyn Bread. Did you miss us? We took a short winter break but are delighted to be back, bringing you our quirky, fun and extremely useful guide to everything good about food and drink in Brooklyn. One big change is that, for now, we are on a monthly schedule. So you might want to take your time browsing our pages. Like a good meal, it shouldn’t be rushed – you’ll just regret it later. Linger a bit, and savor each page... Because this is a monthly issue, we’ve packed in even more goodies than usual. The issue is almost overflowing with recipe ideas (for both food AND drink), another inspiring perfect day in Brooklyn, courtesy of a local business owner, a chat with a very committed bartender, some great new columns, and lots and lots of photographs of people having fun at events ranging from flea markets to fundraisers to pie contests. It all adds up to one thing, as we like to say on this page – a celebration of Brooklyn’s diverse food culture... the people who produce the goods, and the people who enjoy them. That’s what makes Brooklyn Bread different from any other publication. Our next isue is out on Wednesday, February 23. In between times, you can follow us on Twitter and Facebook. And if you’re a relative newcomer to our magazine, you can read past issues on our website – BrooklynBreadPress.com. Enjoy the issue, fellow food lovers. Danielle Franca Swift & Jack Wright

Illustrator Liza Corsillo Contributors Joel Bukiewicz, Josh Cohen, Emily Elsen, Melissa Elsen, Cathy Erway, Sara Franklin, Joann Kim, Laura Nuter, Sophie Slesinger Photographers Jen Campbell, Kelly Conaty, Jennifer Forchelli, Nichole McCall, Justin Nunnink, Kim Madalinski, Andrew St. Clair, Lawrence Sumulong, John Suscovich, Donny Tsang, Allen Ying Brooklyn Bread is published by Brooklyn Bread Press P.O. Box 150026 Brooklyn, NY 11215 (917) 740-1072 www.brooklynbreadpress.com Follow us on Facebook @BrooklynBreadPress Printed on recycled paper using soy-based inks.


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February, 2011

Inside This Issue

A smorgasbord of photographs, advice, wisdom and wit! Our Favorite Things 4-5 Treats both inspiring and indulgent. The Events Guide 7 Everything you need to plan your food calendar. Humble Pie 10 Another tasty helping from the folks at Four and Twenty Blackbirds. The Cheese Report 10 Laura Nuter’s irresistibly gooey guide. Good Bread 10 Another classic recipe for you to try.

Pie for Dinner at Four and Twenty Blackbirds, with chef Nate Smith PAGES 8-9

Knives Out 17 A new column by Joel Bukiewicz. Try This At Home! 21 Cathy Erway shows us how to enjoy the best food around... in our own homes. A Perfect Day In Brooklyn 25 Join George Weld of Egg as he plans a day to remember. Adopt An Animal 27 Six adorable dogs need homes and loving owners. Can you help?

The 4th Annual Brooklyn Pie Contest at The Bedford PAGES 12-13

The Production Line 35 Investigating the source of great dishes. From Soil To Plate 45 Sara Franklin’s regular green report. Love Thy Neighbor 47 Get to know Brooklyn’s best artisans... a new column by Joann Kim. The Wine Column 51 Josh Cohen with his picks of the month.

HealthCorps’ Chili Saves Lives Cook-Off At Brooklyn Brewery PAGES 41-43

Café Of The Month 54 We visit Abigail’s Café in Prospect Heights. Bartender Of The Month 57 Abigail Gullo of Fort Defiance. Brooklyn Bread Rate Card 61 Everything you need to know! Shopping Local 63 A wonderfully useful new column featuring Brooklyn’s best merchants and goods.

The Foodshed Market at the Commons PAGES 55-60

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February, 2011

Our Favorite Things

A roundup of some of the finest dishes and treats from Brooklyn restaurants... by Jason Greenberg Eggplant Napoleon from Tanoreen Mario Batali once said, “I know it doesn’t make sense, and I don’t understand it. But it is consistently the case: Women are better cooks. They approach food differently.” A case in point is Rawia Bishara, whose Bay Ridge restaurant, Tanoreen, will transport you. Bishara was born in Israel of Palestinian descent and opened Tanoreen in 1998 to honor her mother and the food that she grew up eating. This past year she moved down Third Avenue to a bigger space, which she runs with her daughter Jumana. Bishara combines Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisines with outstanding results. Known for her innovative takes on eggplant, Bishara uses the vegetable to accommodate guests with dining restrictions without compromising the integrity of a dish. Her eggplant Napoleon is a perfect example of this. Sliced eggplant is marinated in pesto, dredged in homemade breadcrumbs, and deep fried to golden perfection. It is then layered with smooth and smoky baba ghanoush (made from grilled eggplant), topped with a pesto salad and surrounded with a fresh tomato, red onion and parsley salad, drizzled with her signature blend of olive oil, garlic and lemon juice. The perfect blend of textures and flavors here explains why this restaurant is so beloved. Tanoreen is really an extension of Chef Bishara’s home and history. Expect her to stop by during your meal to make sure everything is to your liking. Wash your meal down with lemonade infused with rose and orange essence. Tanoreen, 7523 Third Avenue, Bay Ridge, 718-748-5600, tanoreen.com.

Photography by John Suscovich French Dip at Walter Foods Walter Foods is a comfortable, consistently satisfying American bistro where you will find comfort foods prepared with unusal care. Fried chicken with spicy honey, pan-roasted striped bass over lobster panzanella and a seared pork chop with Brussels sprouts and apple-peppercorn jus are a few of their impressive offerings. One of the standouts on the menu is their take on a classic French dip sandwich. Upgrading the meat to thin-sliced filet mignon makes for superior texture and taste. Served on a crusty baguette as opposed to the traditional roll, the sandwich has added bite and presents a nice contrast between tender meat and crispy bread. It is topped with a creamy horseradish sauce, a handful of their excellent fries and jus for dipping on the side. Walter Foods, 253 Grand Street, Williamsburg, 718-387-8783, walterfoods.com.


February, 2011

Smoked Catfish Nam Prik at Fatty Cue Chef Zak Pelaccio joined forces with pit master Robbie Richter (formerly of Hill Country BBQ) to open Fatty Cue, a south Williamsburg Asian-inspired barbeque restaurant. The menu they created is like none other. You’ll be hard pressed to find anything ordinary here – it’s both challenging and inspiring. The challenge lays chiefly in deciding what to order. Diners are instantly greeted by a delicious hickory aroma from the smoker out back. Thoughtfully sourced meats such as heritage pork ribs or hand-pulled lamb shoulder are served with smoked fish-palm syrup and Indonesian long peppers,

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and goat yogurt with garlic, Vietnamese mint and pita, respectively. While the menu also features brisket from Brandt Ranch and Pazio Farm duck, the fish options are exceptional. The smoked catfish nam prik is a great way to start your meal. A nam prik is a traditional Thai dip. Available on the dinner menu and as part of the $19 two-course lunch menu, the catfish is smoked for just over an hour and then blended with smoked tomatoes, charred long red chillies, garlic, house-cured anchovy, olive oil, tamarind and dehydrated shrimp. The dish is served with a crudité of seasonal vegetables such as carrots, cucumber, radish, thin-sliced ginger, charred

Classic Hot Chocolate from The Chocolate Room Owners Jon Payson and Naomi Josepher have always shared a love of chocolate. Now they share that love in two Chocolate Room locations. Their menu features a gooey brownie sundae, a rich chocolate layer cake, and a chocolate stout float using Brooklyn Brewery’s Black Chocolate Stout and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. But in February, what better choice than a creamy hot chocolate? It’s made with E. Guittard milk chocolate and vanilla-infused milk, topped with a homemade marshmallow. We could say it’ll bring you back to your childhood, but it’s way better than what you drank back then. The Chocolate Room, 86 Fifth Avenue, Park Slope, (718) 783-2900, 269 Court Street, Cobble Hill (718) 2462600, thechocolateroombrooklyn.com.

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garlic and Thai basil, which all work against the spicy catfish. Smoked ingredients are also found in house cocktails such as the Smokin’ Bone (bourbon, smoked pineapple syrup, Tabasco and chocolate bitters) and the Fatty Manhattan (Rye 1, smoked cherry Coke, Italian vermouth, lemon and bitters). Fatty Cue, 91 South 6th Street, Williamsburg, 718-599-3090 fattycue.com.


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bicycle station

Bicycle Station

February, 2011

Your Brooklyn Valentine Dream List Perfect gifts for special people... by Jason Greenberg

“The Bicycle Station is a godsend for cyclists...” Time Out New York

TUNE-UPS v REPAIRS RESTORATIONS v SALES Owner Mike has more than 30 years of experience in bike maintenance and care We are open through the fall and winter and offer excellent prices for off-season sales and repairs $45 TUNE-UPS! Get your bike tuned up and be ready to ride this spring 171 Park Avenue, corner of Adelphi 1 block from Flushing Avenue (718) 638-0300 bicycylestationbrooklyn.com

Seven Deadly Sins for Two from Tumbador Chocolates Jean-Francois Bonnet, former pastry chef at Daniel restaurant, opened his Tumbador factory in Sunset Park in 2005. The company has grown tremendously and they now supply their first-rate chocolates to Fresh Direct and Williams Sonoma as well as working with chefs like Todd English and Zac Pelaccio. Specially created for Valentines Day, the Seven Deadly Sins is a thirteen-piece box featuring twelve heart-shaped bonbons and one 55% dark chocolate and sea salt bouchée to share with your valentine. Each person works their way through the bonbons towards the middle to share the salty bouchée. Tumbador Chocolate, tumbadorchocolate.com. Blood Orange Agar Heart Jellies from Liddabit Sweets Right in the peak of blood orange season, Liz Gutman and Jen King from Liddabit are featuring these heart-shaped jellies especially for the holiday. Adding the fruit purée after cooking gives these treats an intense fresh fruit taste. Available at specialty goods stores such as Marlow & Sons, Blue Apron Foods and Greene Grape Provisions, they are a sweet vegan alternative to chocolates (and they’re just as delicious). Liddabit Sweets, liddabitsweets.com. Fondue For Two at The Chocolate Room Both locations offer an inviting, cozy space for a shared dessert and glass of wine. The fondue for two, made with 60% Belgian bittersweet chocolate, is served with homemade pound cake, strawberries, bananas, pineapple and homemade oversized marshmallows. The chocolate is not too sweet but thick enough to hug on to whatever you choose to dunk in. The Chocolate Room, 86 Fifth Avenue, Park Slope, (718) 783-2900, 269 Court Street, Cobble Hill (718) 246-2600, thechocolateroombrooklyn.com. Park Deli Classic at Park Delicatessen Stop by Park Delicatessen for one of their beautiful flower arrangements presented in recycled soup cans. The bouquets are available in a wide assortment of colors and are priced at $35 or $50. While you’re there pick up a Brooklyn-made card from Campbell Raw Press. Park Delicatessen, 533 Park Place, Prospect Heights, (718) 789-8889, parkdelibk.com.


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February, 2011

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The Food & Drink Events Guide

Enjoy a romantic dinner for two – or feast on pizza, pretzels and beer. Better still – do it all. 1/30 Wine and Tapas Tasting Event at Palo Santo Park Slope wine store Picada y Vino is holding its second annual Wine Tasting and Tapas Night at Palo Santo Restaurant for a festive, casual evening. Sample half a dozen wines, feast on superb Latin-inspired pairings from Chef Jacques Gautier, and enjoy good company! The event is from 5:00 pm to 9:00 pm, and the cost is $45 per person (tax and tip included). For more information, or to make a reservation, call 718636-6311. Palo Santo Restaurant, 652 Union Street (between 4th & 5th Avenue), Park Slope, palosanto.us. 2/2 Third Anniversary Dinner at Beer Table You might observe Groundhog Day on February 2, but if you’re looking for a tastier cause for celebration, head over to Beer Table where Justin and Tricia Phillips are serving up “eight tiny courses and eight tiny beers” in honor of their third anniversary. There will be one seating at 8pm, and dinner costs $75. Beer Table, 427B 7th Avenue, Park Slope, 718-965-1196, beertable.com. 2/4 Valentine Cooking Class at Ger-Nis Ger-Nis dims the lights and teaches you how to prepare a five-course meal, including chestnut soup with grape honey, roasted pork loin with cherry sauce, and caramelized banana tartlets. Enjoy an aperitif and wine pairings in this hands-on cooking class, and you’ll be prepped to offer your loved one (or yourself) a special meal come February 14. Ger-Nis Culinary & Herb Center, 540 President Street Suite 2E, Gowanus, 347-422-0337, ger-nis.com. 2/6 Pizza Pros at The Brooklyn Kitchen Did you know professional pizza makers are called pizzaioli? Sign up for this class and you’ll benefit from the knowledge of two of the borough’s finest pizzaioli – Anthony Falco and Angelo Womack of Roberta’s. These gentlemen will show you how to make pizza from near-scratch, using a variety of seasonal ingredients. By the time class ends you’ll know how to craft a pie that beats the stuff at most corner pizza places in New York. Sign up soon, because classes fill up fast! Class is $75 and starts at 2pm. The Brooklyn Kitchen, 100 Frost Street, Williamsburg, 718-389-2982, thebrooklynkitchen.com. 2/14 Valentine’s Day Dinner at Lilla Café Avail yourself of a delicious, five-course dinner offering favorites like Cornish hen

Happy drinkers at last year’s Brooklyn Wort. Don’t worry, February’s competition will be held indoors.

as well as creative plates like beet and ricotta ravioli. The prix fixe Valentine’s menu reads like a multiple choice quiz of gourmet dining – happily, there are no wrong answers. Plus, your dinner will be accompanied by a live musician. Seatings at 6:30 and 8:30pm, $45 each. Lilla Café, 126 Union Street, Carroll Gardens, 718-855-5700. 2/14 Sweets and Meats Waffle Feast at Beer Table Nothing says love like a stack of waffles dripping syrup, especially when paired with one of the beers on tap at Beer Table. Reservations aren’t necessary for this Valentine’s Day treat, so stop by when you’re ready for breakfast at dinner. Beer Table, 427B 7th Avenue, Park Slope, 718-965-1196, beertable.com. 2/14 Sparkling Wine Tasting at Abigail’s Cole Porter may get no kick from champagne, but pretty much everyone else does. Stop by Abigail’s in Prospect Heights and enjoy a tongue-tickling selection of Cava, Prosecco, Cremant, and Champagne. The event begins at 7pm and costs $40 per person – reserve early. Abigail Café and Wine Bar, 807 Classon Avenue, Prospect Heights, 718-3993200, abigailbrooklyn.com. 2/17 Pretzels, Mustard and Beer at Ger-Nis Peruse this list and tell us your mouth doesn’t water: New York street pretzels, horseradish-herb pretzels, spicy cherry pretzel knots and chocolate nutty pretzels. And then there is a feast of savory mustards. to make. Get hands-on experience using the ingredients that make up pretzels and mustard, twist dough, and learn a thing or ten about the history of pretzels, mustard

and beer. Did we mention the beer? You can look forward to locally crafted beer selected by Ben Granger, owner of Bierkraft in Park Slope. Class costs $50. Ger-Nis Culinary and Herb Center, 540 President Street Suite 2E, Gowanus, 347-422-0337, ger-nis.com. 2/21 Sausage-Making Class at Brooklyn Kitchen Charcuterie is a French word that either refers to cooked, cold meats, or an establishment that sells them. If you’d like to learn more about the former from people who run the latter, you’re in luck. Sign up and soak up the expertise of sausage gurus from The Meat Hook. You’ll learn how to make two different kinds of sausage in this interactive class. Even better, you can munch on sausage during the lesson and go home with your own link. Costs $60. The Brooklyn Kitchen, 100 Frost Street, Williamsburg, 718-389-2982, thebrooklynkitchen.com. 2/26 Brooklyn Wort: Brooklyn’s Homebrew Competition Brooklyn’s brewmasters converge at Gowanus Studio Space to wow judges and guests with a kaleidoscopic collection of local beer. Each guest receives a 2oz pour of beer from every brewer (there are 30) and a plate of food. Afterwards, you can cast your vote for the People’s Choice Award. This event, sponsored by Sycamore and Brooklyn Homebrew, was a huge hit last year, so don’t miss your chance at a comprehensive tasting tour of Brooklyn’s beers. There are two tasting times, 2:30 and 4:30, and admission is $30. Tickets available at brooklynwort.com. Brooklyn Wort, brooklynwort.com, Gowanus Studio Space, 166 7th Street, Gowanus, 347-948-5753, gowanusstudio.org.


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February, 2011

Pie For Dinner At Four And Twenty Blackbirds Sunday, January 23 in Gowanus, with chef Nate Smith

Salih Sabri and Kristy Lopez-Bernal

Joelle Berman and Martha Guenther

Carrie Caldwell and Denie Velkovich

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDREW ST. CLAIR... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072


February, 2011

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Pie For Dinner At Four And Twenty Blackbirds Sunday, January 23 in Gowanus, with chef Nate Smith

Andie Cusick, Fiorella Valdesolo, Angela Conant, Benjamin Cohen

Kate Hooker, Matt Conover, Carrie Noteboom

Sophie Camin, Marrissa Wo, Kristen Ossmann, Jackie Werner (Four and Twenty)

Garvin Rhodes, Michelle McDevitt, Stella Yoon

Co-host Melissa Elsen, chef Nathan Smith, Sonya Giacobbe (Kelso of Brooklyn)

Ponni Perumalswami, Adam Pasick, Lynne Abeles, Valery McKeon

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDREW ST. CLAIR... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072


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Humble Pie The sweetest of treats

By Emily and Melissa Elsen, of Four and Twenty Blackbirds, 439 3rd Avenue, Gowanus

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ALENTINE’S Day will always and forever be the chocolate holiday of the year. This recipe has cayenne chili powder in it. It’s spicy, rich and fudge-like. You will need one shallow 9- or 10-inch prebaked tart or pie shell of your choice for this recipe. Any type of crust will do. Chilied Chocolate Pie 11oz 72% or higher, vquality chocolate 2 eggs 1 1/2 cups light cream 1 teaspoon vanilla pinch salt 2 fine grinds black pepper 1/4 teaspoon cayenne powder 2 dashes old fashioned bitters Chili flake for sprinkling Place chocolate in a medium mixing bowl. Using a heavy-bottomed saucepan, warm the cream slowly, stirring as you go, until it steams and becomes hot. Don’t burn it! Pour the hot cream over the chocolate, then slowly whisk together without incorporating air. Add to the melted chocolate the vanilla, salt, black pepper, cayenne powder and bitters. Crack the eggs into a separate mixing bowl. Pour about a half cup of the chocolate into the eggs and whisk to temper the eggs. Pour the warmed egg mixture into the chocolate and spice mixture. Gently whisk together but do not incorporate air. Pour the mixture into your prepared tart or pie shell and bake for about 10-15 minutes in a 325F oven, or until center is just set. Don’t overbake, or the filling will become grainy. After cooling, sprinkle with chili flakes.

Crazy about Brooklyn Bread? You can read our old issues online! Visit BrooklynBreadPress.com

Good Bread Our monthly recipe

Multi-Grain Bread with Sesame, Flax and Poppy Seeds, from Bon Appétit 1/2 cup unsweetened multi-grain cereal 2 cups boiling water 1 envelope dry yeast 4 1/3 cups bread flour 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon brown sugar 1 1/2 teaspoons salt 2 teaspoons sesame seeds 2 teaspoons flax seeds 2 teaspoons poppy seeds 2 cups water Place cereal in large bowl. Pour in two cups boiling water. Let stand until mixture cools to 110F, around 20 minutes. Sprinkle yeast over cereal. Add one cup flour, oil, sugar, salt and stir until smooth. Mix in enough remaining flour to form dough. Cover; let rest 15 minutes. Place dough onto floured surface. Knead until smooth and elastic, adding more flour if sticky, 10 minutes. Oil large bowl. Add dough to bowl; turn to coat. Cover bowl with clean kitchen towel. Let dough rise in warm area until doubled, one hour. Mix seeds in bowl. Punch down dough. Turn out onto lightly oiled surface. Knead briefly. Shape into 12x4-inch loaf. Sprinkle baking sheet with two teaspoons seeds. Place loaf atop seeds. Cover with towel. Let rise in warm area until almost doubled, 30 minutes. Position one oven rack in center and one just below center in oven. Place baking pan on lower rack and preheat oven to 425°F. Brush loaf with water. Sprinkle with remaining seed mixture. Using sharp knife, cut three diagonal slashes in surface of loaf. Place baking sheet with loaf in oven. Immediately pour two cups water into hot pan on lower rack in oven (water will steam). Bake loaf until golden and crusty and tester inserted into center comes out clean, 35 minutes. Transfer to rack and cool. (Can be made one day ahead.) Wrap in plastic; store at room temperature.

February, 2011

Cheese Report Seriously tasty dispatches

By Laura Nuter, of GRAB Specialty Foods, 438 7th Avenue, Park Slope

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INCE the gooiest of all holidays is just around the bend, I thought it only fitting to focus on the gooiest of all cheeses. If you’re staying in to cook something special for your guy or gal pal on this most celebrated of date nights, we suggest you grab a bottle of fancy bubbles (Ulysse Collin Champagne is wonderful) or if going the beer route, Brooklyn Black Ops. You’ll want to pair either with a luscious triple-crème, petit Brillat-Savarin or Delice d’ Argental, or the cutest-ever goat cheese heart covered in pink peppercorns from Capriole Farm. A couple of strawberries on the side wouldn’t hurt, and whatever happens after that... is none of our business! On the other hand, should you find yourself at home alone twiddling your thumbs with no one to play with, how about taking the initiative to get the party started with your very own Raclette machine and seven of your closest pals? The word raclette is derived from the French word racler, which means to scrape. Over seven centuries ago it was known as bratchas, a Swiss-German term for roasted cheese. Back then, Swiss shepherds would bring cheese into the mountains with them and in the evenings, they would place the cheese next to their campfire to soften, and then scrape over potatoes, onions, pickles and crusty bread. Today’s modern version keeps with tradition, and since campfires are not allowed in Brooklyn apartments (unless you’re in Bushwick) you’ll need to grab yourself a Raclette machine (I like Swissmar), a few bottles of Riesling or Pinot Gris, a threepound hunk of Swiss Raclette cut into 6L x 2W x 1/8D inch pieces, 16oz Cornichon, 16 slices Prosciutto di Parma, 16 slices Bresaola (air-dried beef), 16 slices Berkshire ham, 2lbs of boiled new potatoes in their skin and two baguettes, sliced 3/4-inch thick. The rest is super easy... pour melted cheese over delicious accompaniments! Have fun!


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MONTHLY MASH FEBRUARY 2011

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B N R Y l E WE K OO

THURSDAY

BROOKLYN GHOST BOTTLE NIGHT AT BARCADE

SATURDAY

TEDX MANHATTAN: CHANGING THE WAY WE EAT

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12

TUESDAY

15

SATURDAY

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Rare And Even Non-existent Beers Available For One Night Only. Thursday, February 3; 6pm Barcade 388 Union Avenue Brooklyn, NY Http://www.barcadebrooklyn.com/

Learn, Teach, Be Inspired. And Have A Brooklyn While You're At It. Saturday, February 12; 10:30am-6pm Prince George Ballroom 15 East 27th Street New York, NY Event Is Sold Out; Live Stream Available At www.livestream.com/tedx www.tedxmanhattan.org/m/

BROOKLYN “MAIN ENGINE START” RELEASE PARTY Welcome Our New Brewing System's Very First Beer. Tuesday, February 15; 7:30-10:30pm The Brooklyn Brewery 79 N 11th Street, Brooklyn, NY Http://www.brooklynbrewery.com This Event Is Invite Only. To Win A Pair Of Tix, Email Info@brooklynbrewery.com With The Subject Line “Brooklyn Bread”

BROOKLYN WORT: BROOKLYN’S HOMEBREW COMPETITION Amateurs Face Off For Best Homemade Beer Recipe. Saturday, February 26; Tastings At 2:30pm & 4:30pm The Gowanus Studio Space 166 7th Street Brooklyn, NY www.brooklynwort.com

*Always remember to check Brooklynbrewery.com/events for a full calendar of Brooklyn Brewery events Brooklyn Brewery | 79 N 11th St, Brooklyn Ny 11211 | Brooklynbrewery.com


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February, 2011

The 4th Annual Brooklyn Pie Contest at The Bedford Sunday, January 23 in Williamsburg

Rebecca Lin, Liana Kraushaar, Katie Watson, Matthew Zimmerman

Rose Gold, Julia Bedell, Gereld Sterada

Stephanie Porto, Bianca Buchanan, Jamal Rogers

Geoff Evans, Judd Redmond, Margot Schou

Liz Neves, Donnet Bruce, Nicole Taylor, Meredith Modzelewsky

Lata Nott, Pearl Chen, Karen Goldberg, Brianna Lee

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALLEN YING... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072


February, 2011

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The 4th Annual Brooklyn Pie Contest at The Bedford Sunday, January 23 in Williamsburg

Amrita Dasgupta, Veronica Fischmann

Natasha Cheung, Leanne Abriani

Allegra Angus, Vanessa Perkins

Cathy Markland, Carolyn Bigda

Alex Silva, Thompson Harris

Jason-Louise Graham, Emma Rougerie

Aimee Hunter, Airin Miller

Steven Sussman, Lauren Simon, Jill Lipton

Jessica Kantor, Rob Gorski

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALLEN YING... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072


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February, 2011


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What We Bought At Brooklyn Flea Sunday, January 16 at One Hanson Place

Tizia Sertimer bought a pupusa platter

Kristen Sarra got a bookmark postmarked on her birthday

Angela Tetaud bought vintage dolls

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDREW ST. CLAIR... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072


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February, 2011

An Afternoon At Brooklyn Flea Sunday, January 16 at One Hanson Place, Fort Greene

Matt Lang and Matt Lindemulder of Porchetta

Irene Papas of Red Hook Lobster Pound

Margot Stein and Joanna McNancy

Amanda Woodward and Alison Woodward

Anthony Frank of A. Frank Antiques

Caitlin Craggs and Victor Broadley

Lucy Dixon and Ryan Dixon

Susanna Curtis and Angelo Petrigh

Katie Kurtzman and Kristen Bauer

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDREW ST. CLAIR... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072


BROOKLYN BREAD

February, 2011

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Knives Out

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A new column about the art of knive-making... by Joel Bukiewicz, of Cut Brooklyn

MADE my first knife in the early winter of 2004. Earlier that year I’d moved down to a small town in central Georgia to work on the manuscript of a novel I’d started in graduate school; rent was cheap and my wife and I could afford to write full time. At some stage between failing to sell my manuscript, Kerry’s loss to Bush, and Christmas I found myself hating the place I was in, sitting at a laptop turning thoughts into sentences. Aside from family, writing was the only thing I’d ever loved, and somehow I’d gotten to a place where I hated it. Confused, and terrified I’d lose it forever, I closed my computer one day in late November and promised not to open it for three months. To pay rent I was cutting firewood at the old family farm, which was 20 minutes down the road, and when I stopped writing I started spending most of my time outside. I’d wake before 5am and go fishing at one of the big ponds at the farm. When it’s cold the bass slow down and hang out deep, but if you know what they’re up to you can still

catch a lot of them. I had an itch inside that I couldn’t put a name to, or maybe it was a sadness. But I found that making things made it feel a little better. So that’s what I did. I made a set of canoe paddles for my dad, then bookshelves for his office; I made a coffee table

for our home and a pair of candlesticks from bent copper wire. And one day in December I found myself in the crumbling equipment shed at the farm, in the light from a hole broken through the roof, staring at a bar of rusty steel, half hidden in the corner beneath hay and farm debris. I picked it up because it seemed like the kind of thing that could be useful, disappeared with it back to the shed behind our own house, and there, where I set up shop, I made with it my first knife. Overnight, I was obsessed. Rarely did I leave my shop before 2am, and soon I was stumbling over the nuances of the craft. A kitchen knife, in profile, has five lines – its economy simply doesn’t forgive. An extra millimeter here, a few there – extend the belly too far into the flat, make the knife too tall at the heel, or the tip too high – and it’s a goat. Every facet of its creation is a study in balance, each process an opportunity, and a trap. Like one of the bass I’d lured from slumber down at the pond, I was hooked deep. I love knives because they saved me.

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paSta & ravIoLI

orGanIC eGGS,

mILk & yoGurt

manGaLISta

pICkLeS, CHutneyS & Caponata

pork 260 Fifth Avenue, Park Slope 718.230.3119

freSh, local

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Stop by for a nutritiouS noSh.

LoBSter roLLS, wInter SoupS,

CoFFee, tea, paStrIeS, CraB CakeS, GLuten-Free SweetS & SavorIeS & more!

www.foodshedmarket.com


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February, 2011

Our Favorite Places To...

Drink coffee, eat breakfast, eat dessert, and enjoy a nightcap

CARLY MISSICO... «Drink coffee: Marlow and Sons «Eat breakfast: Grilled Cheese at Kitchen «Eat dessert: Vinegar Hill House «Enjoy a nightcap: Dressler

ANDREW ROWAT... «Drink coffee: Iris Cafe «Eat breakfast: Kitchen or Prime Meats «Eat dessert: Sahadi’s «Enjoy a nightcap: Henry Public

SHAYNA GEHL... «Drink coffee: Tillie’s Bean «Eat breakfast: Kitchen «Eat dessert: Cake Man Raven «Enjoy a nightcap: Green Grape Provisions

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDREW ST. CLAIR... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072

Copies of this magazine get snapped up fast... But do NOT panic, dear reader. If you cannot find a copy of Brooklyn Bread at your favorite food and drink establishment, book shop or other fine store, you can read every single page of Brooklyn Bread online.

Just visit brooklynbreadpress.com


February, 2011

BROOKLYN BREAD

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Eight good reasons to visit Michael & Ping’s 1. Healthier food – never (ever) MSG 2. Bahn Mi – Slow-roasted pork, char sui, spicy mayo on toasted baguette 3. Tamarind-glazed Spare Ribs – Slow-cooked for eight hours 4. See the magic happen in our 51-foot open kitchen 5. Wood beams + exposed brick walls = cool (but cozy) vibe 6. Great lunch specials – get out of the office already! 7. Enjoy dessert next door at 4 & 20 Blackbirds, Brooklyn’s best pie shop 8. We’re the first Certified Green Restaurant in Brooklyn* EAT IN « TAKEOUT « DELIVERY to Gowanus/Park Slope/Carroll Gardens/Cobble Hill ENTIRE RESTAURANT IS AVAILABLE FOR EVENTS (GREAT PARTY SPACE!) *Admittedly, this doesn’t necessarily make the food taste any better, but it DOES make everyone feel better

437 Third Ave (corner of 8th Street), Gowanus 718-788-0017


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BROOKLYN BREAD

Gowanus Canal 16ft

February, 2011

An Afternoon At Brooklyn Flea

Sunday, January 16 at One Hanson Place, Fort Greene PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDREW ST. CLAIR

Mediterranean 7,280ft

Angela Leo, Greg Nieberg, Tom Braxton, Nic Braxton

Indian 25,344ft

atlantic 28,232ft Will Schambach, Connie Lau, and Brian McDonnell

Pacific 35,797ft

Oddhero.com Graphic prints, made in Brooklyn with genius Eddie Enriquez of Australian Scent


BROOKLYN BREAD

February, 2011

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Try This At Home!

T

Inspired by Brooklyn’s finest culinary creations, Cathy Erway tries them out in her own kitchen

HERE was a time when I thought Chavella’s on Classon Street in Crown Heights was my neighborhood’s secret. Unlike the new bars and bistros to pop up in the neighborhood, this longstanding haven to authentic Mexican food had only been discovered by fellow dwellers of Crown Heights. Well, either everyone’s moving here or word’s spread afar. Getting a seat at Chavella’s on a Friday night, or for weekend brunch, is only slightly easier than negotiating the lines outside Tom’s diner on Washington Avenue, in Prospect Heights. The attention is well-deserved, though. I admire the eaters of the city when they’re lining up behind a place like Chavella’s (pronounced sha-VAY-as). The entire restaurant is the size of a small studio, with cramped tables adorned modestly with Mexican memorabilia. But the kitchen, visible through a short divider wall, turns out some of the most fresh, flavorful, and real Mexican food in the city. Nothing about the menu could be deemed gimmicky or inauthentic: not the fluffy, double stack of fresh masa tortillas underneath every taco; not the steamed, corn husk-covered tamale, lip-smacking tomatillo sauce, or the fact that even dishes with meat are well-rounded rather than jam-packed with it, and vegetables like cactus and avocado are almost as prevalent. But for me, the sopa de frijolas stands out – a black bean soup so rich and creamy, you’ll likely be full after one bowl. I’ve tinkered with black beans in my time, and have found this is only achievable with lots of time. No chicken broth or heavy cream necessary, just dry black beans and a good, long simmer in the pot. The day before you start making your sopa, by all means soak the beans overnight. (Cutting the corner by using canned beans will mean a less-than-optimum taste – no contest with the soup at this restaurant, for sure.) The next day, sautée some aromatic vegetables, and plenty of garlic. These will have melted into all but nothing by the time the soup is done. Chavella’s finished soup is blended, and comes garnished with pico de gallo, queso fresca and crema on top. I seldom bother with the added refinement, but a good way to get pico de gallo might be in your leftovers from a Chavella’s take-out.

Sopa de Frijoles Inspired by Chavella’s Makes about 8 servings 2 cups dry black beans, soaked overnight and drained 1 medium onion, chopped 1 small carrot, chopped 1 rib celery (with any leaves on it), chopped 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 bay leaves 1 teaspoon cumin ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional) 1 teaspoon chipotle hot sauce (such as Tabasco) 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice 2 tablespoons olive oil Salt and pepper to taste In a large, heavy-bottomed pot with a lid, cook the onions, carrot and celery over

medium-low heat in the oil for 5-7 minutes, or until onions are translucent. Add the cumin, optional cayenne pepper, garlic, and season with salt and pepper. Cook another 1-2 minutes. Add the beans, bay leaves, chipotle sauce and enough water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook for 2 hours. Check on the pot every hour and if water level is becoming low, add more to cover by 1 inch. Taste, and add more salt and pepper as desired. The total cooking time should be around 3 hours at least, to create a creamy consistency. Remove bay leaves. Transfer to a blender or food processor if desired, to make the soup smooth. Stir in the lime juice and serve. Cathy Erway is the author of The Art of Eating In, the blog Not Eating Out In New York, and hosts the weekly radio show, Let’s Eat In, on Heritage Radio Network on Mondays.


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February, 2011

An Afternoon At Brooklyn Flea Sunday, January 16 at One Hanson Place, Fort Greene

Keith Klein of Milk Truck Grilled Cheese

Kelsie Pelletier and Michael Brick

Cierra Sherwin and Michael Rudder

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDREW ST. CLAIR... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072

fresh pastries artisanal breads desserts custom cakes

A café firmly in the “Great European tradition”, “serving NY’s best coffee” in the “most articulate space around” – according to its cult following of creative directors and writers.

Café Regular

448 atlantic avenue, boerum hill 718.246.2402 Ÿ bettybakery.com Tue-Fri 7:30-7 Ÿ Sat 9-7 Ÿ Sun 11-5

318a 11th Street, Brooklyn Sun-Wed 7am-7pm Thu-Sat 7am-8pm

Café Regular du Nord 158a Berkeley Place, Brooklyn Sun-Sat 7am-8pm


BROOKLYN BREAD

February, 2011

Page 23

An Afternoon At Brooklyn Flea Sunday, January 16 at One Hanson Place, Fort Greene

Chris Thorn of McClure’s Pickles

Talya Chalet of Fine and Raw Chocolate

Kati Stadum of Brooklyn Brew Shop

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDREW ST. CLAIR... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072


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BROOKLYN BREAD

February, 2011

A Sparkling Winter Tasting Story At Ger-Nis January 12, featuring chef Gabe McMackin of Roberta’s PHOTOGRAPHS BY NICHOLE MCCALL

Nissa Pierson, Jeffrey Pogash, Gabe McMackin, Nilani Trent

Jonathan Wagner, Jocelyn Wagner, Karen Messing, Yianni Einhorn, Masayo

Vicky Minchala, Tina Degraff, Gabe McMackin


BROOKLYN BREAD

February, 2011

Page 25

My Perfect Brooklyn Day By George Weld, owner of Egg restaurant in Williamsburg

George Weld, owner of the acclaimed Egg restaurant – his perfect day begins with a run and ends with a family pizza. Photograph by Allen Ying

M

ORE people live on my street in Williamsburg than in the Virginia town where I spent most of my childhood. A decade after moving here, I’m still amazed by how much goes on in this tiny sliver of the borough. There’s so much here that I can imagine a dozen ways to string together a perfect day in Brooklyn – staring out over the Narrows from the base of the Verrazano Bridge; eating Totonno’s pizza and walking the beach on Coney Island; taking laps around the Prospect Park bike loop before settling in for a concert at the bandshell. But most days I never make it out of Williamsburg, where I live, work, eat, shop, send my kids to school,

and have nearly perfect days more often than not. On this particular day, I wake up early and sneak out of the room to try to make coffee without waking my wife or my two daughters. I keep a little bag of whatever’s new at Blue Bottle to drink at home (Egg’s coffee comes from Brooklyn Roasting Company, but I walk by Blue Bottle about 10 times a day – it’s irresistible, and the baristas are amazing). I’ll drink that in the dark, savoring what passes for silence in this town. As soon as it’s light enough to see my way down the stairs, I’ll head out for a run: I go up Kent Avenue past Pop’s Uniforms and the new Vans compound, into Greenpoint. I turn onto Quay Street by our paper-

goods supplier, Paramount Paper, and continue down West Street, an intriguing ruin of a street where collapsing buildings are cheek-by-jowl with renovated apartments, a bus company, and a slaughterhouse, whose workers are often hosing blood off the sidewalks into the sewer as I run past. I continue past the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory and turn at the end of Manhattan Avenue where it dead-ends at Newtown Creek. As a living body of water, Newtown Creek is a horror – a Superfund site so toxic and polluted that I once heard a city official warn a reporter against lighting a cigarette too close to it. But if you catch it early in the morning when the sun is glancing off the church spires and office glass of Long Island City A


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February, 2011

SOME OF GEORGE WELD’S FAVORITE PLACES « Totonno’s 1524 Neptune Avenue, Coney Island, 718-372-8606 «Blue Bottle Coffee 160 Berry Street, 718-387-4160 «Margo Patisserie Cafe, 667 Driggs Avenue, Williamsburg, 718-384-1212 «Taco Chulo 318 Grand Street, Williamsburg, 718-302-2485, tacochulo.com «Roberta’s 261 Moore Street, Bushwick, 718-417-1118, robertaspizza.com «Best Pizza 33 Havemeyer Street, 718-599-2210

Island City, when the rogue sailboats tied up to the bulkhead there rest perfectly still above the mirrored water, it can look beautiful, and it can go a long way toward reminding you that you live on the tip of an island. Since my perfect day would have to be a Saturday, when my wife is home from work and my daughter home from school, we’d loiter around the house a bit when I get home. We’d walk past Egg and say hello, then go to Cafe Margot for almond croissants to eat as we walked up to the McCarren Park Greenmarket. M’lou, my older daughter,

planters made out of any available container. We’ll spend the afternoon lying in the grass at the State Park on the East River, watching sea planes come in from the Hamptons – I’m always awed by the sight of one of them splashing down and puttering across the river to the piers on the Manhattan side. The view gets all the better as the sun goes down on the far side of the Empire State building – in a town with less to do, sitting in this park or on the 5th Street Pier and watching the city light up at dusk would count as premiere entertainment.

“Newtown Creek is a horror, but if you catch it early in the morning when the sun is glancing off the church spires and office glass of Long Island City, when the rogue sailboats tied up to the bulkhead there rest perfectly still above the mirrored water, it can look beautiful.” would get a mango yogurt drink from Ronnybrook; we’d pick up some cheese from Consider Bardwell, get some vegetables from Garden of Eve, and wander home. We like to get brunch at Taco Chulo on the weekends – the food’s great and it’s rarely crowded. But if we feel like wandering a little further afield, we’ll go to Roberta’s, where the wait passes quickly while you wander their back garden, an urban, hippie-punk utopian fantasy of patched-together hoses, homemade weather vanes, and herb

At home, we’ll cook dinner with whatever we bought in the park, or order from Best Pizza if we’re feeling lazy. We all conk out early – after the girls are in bed, we’ll watch a movie, or read and try to tune out the happy chatter of the crowds milling around the Music Hall downstairs. In another life, catching a show there would have been part of my perfect day, but in this life, with too much to do and explore as it is, I leave that for others. Egg is located at 135 North 5th Street, Williamsburg, 718-302-5151, pigandegg.com.


February, 2011

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Enrich Your Life... Adopt An Animal

Three beautiful creatures need homes... call Dog Habitat Rescue at 718-395-2298 or email rescue@doghabitat.org

«

ASHLEY is a red chihuahua who was pulled from a high-kill shelter. She’s feisty and playful – like most of her breed, she’s a real firecracker! She’s under two years old, in very good health and is currently living with a foster family in Brooklyn. Please let us know if you’d like to arrange a meeting with Ashley. She’s a keeper.

«

YAN arrived from the same puppy mill as Xander and Uggie. In fact, we had 26 dogs arrive and we gave them names in alphabetical order. Yan is a malti-poo mixed breed and has been getting along well with all the dogs at our rescue. He’s up-todate his shots, neutered and ready for his new home.

«

XANDER is a young malti-poo who came to our rescue in early January from a puppy mill in WV. He’s around 2 years old, very affectionate and gets along well with other dogs. He’s learning how to walk on a leash and is highly motivated to learn new tricks – especially when there’s a treat in your hand!


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BROOKLYN BREAD

February, 2011

A Sparkling Winter Tasting Story At Ger-Nis January 12, featuring chef Gabe McMackin of Roberta’s PHOTOGRAPHS BY NICHOLE MCCALL

Mari Lipponen, Elissa Icso

Erin McCann, Patrick McCann

Raphael Chun, Maggie Siedel


February, 2011

BROOKLYN BREAD

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Enrich Your Life... Adopt An Animal

Three beautiful creatures need homes... call Dog Habitat Rescue at 718-395-2298 or email rescue@doghabitat.org

«

UGGIE is a shih tzu rescued from a puppy mill in Virginia. He’s acclimated well to his new city, but he’s not a big fan of the snow. He’s a mild mannered, quiet little fella who enjoys being a lap dog. He was given high praise by the foster family that took care of him after he arrived in Brooklyn. He’s ready for his new home!

«

MIKE is a six-year-old Schnauzer rescued from a high-kill shelter in the South. He’s cleaned up since the photo was taken – a haircut is all he needed to help him look less raggedy and more Schnauzer-y. He’s gentle and low key, is up to date on his shots, neutered and ready for his new home. Please contact us via email to meet Yan.

«

DELTA and his brother, Echo, were rescued from a puppy mill in VA and we’ve been caring for them since they arrived in January. Delta is a high-energy, bouncy and exuberant young male Yorkie who loves to roll around with other dogs. If you’re looking for tail-wagging puppy-powered playfulness, this is your guy!


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BROOKLYN BREAD

February, 2011


BROOKLYN BREAD

February, 2011

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How To Pickle, Jar And Ferment

Wednesday, January 19 at Brooklyn Brewery, in association with Edible Brooklyn magazine

Kheedim Oh and Matt Chan of Moma O’s Premium

Lacey Wissen and Paul Wetzel

Rachael Griffin and Jason Singer

Carl Brungraber and Brittany Craig

Jay Steinhauer and Amy Mathews

Laena McCarthy of Anarchy In A Jar

Larissa Kyzer and Amber Musser

Rich Awn of Mombucha

Grace Iannelli, Katie Quilligan, Katie LaFleur

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDREW ST. CLAIR... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072


WHAT do you call a Sunday afternoon mixed with curried meat, potato and chickpeas, a licking of tamarind and chili sauce, all wrapped tightly in a giant piece of buttery flakey eggy bread for $6-$7, eaten to the tune of reggae music? The answer is a Roti Food Safari in Crown Heights. Lured by the charms of the West Indian take on the burrito, our eager safarist, Bec Couche, armed only with a map, a bike and a very healthy appetite, set out to investigate the Roti, and its sidekick – Doubles.

De Hot Pot

1127 Washington Avenue Feeling the imminent threat of being full and not wanting to peak too early, I seized the opportunity to venture into the smaller snack incarnate – Doubles. The potato and channa (chickpea) curry sandwiched between two palm-sized pieces of fried Roti-wrapping was the perfect R.O.R (rest between Rotis) – and, at $1.50, a bargain. Like all the food on this safari, it required skill to eat – and dark clothes. It’s more of a grab-n-go place than a sit and linger, so I took a homemade Sorrel drink for the road, a beverage mulled from brown sugar, ginger, sorrel and spices – delicious.


Trinidad Roti

Gloria’s

991 Nostrand Avenue After consulting with my fellow (and more experienced) customers waiting in line, I opted for Goat Curry Roti, with pumpkin. It was my first foray into hircine cuisine (hircine is a fancy word for goat) and I found the sauce to be a perfect combination of salty and sweet, the pumpkin firm and flavorsome, and the goat tender and rich. Watch out for bones, though.

2702 Church Avenue Only halfway through the adventure – and I was in trouble. One of the most feared side-effects of bike-riding in winter had set in – frozen fingers. Taking a seat in the half-religious artifact shop, half-restaurant with thoughts of tropical beaches prompted by the large mural helped to thaw them out – but I needed (more) sustenance. The smiling staff empathized. Happy to explain the menu, they suggested hot chocolate to warm my hands, and a boneless Chicken Roti, with tangy tamarind and mango sauce to warm my belly – all served on a beautifully colored tray. In half an hour I was revived, and ready for the quest to continue.

Trini-Gul Ali’s Original Roti

337 Utica Avenue For a place that claims first dibs on the ‘Ali’ name (it’s very popular on the Roti circuit), the ‘original’ is suspiciously modern inside. Before authenticity fears set in, I learned the place had recently undergone a renovation – “different face, same food”. Taking online reviews into consideration, I eased myself into the West Indian cuisine with a Dahl Roti. Unwrapping the stretchy-naan-likebread parcel revealed a piping hot medley of juicy lentils, potatoes and tasty curry gravy. Given the lack of utensils, I worked out quickly that Roti is finger, not fork, food. BYO napkins.

543 Nostrand Avenue Staving off feelings of bloat, I switched it up at this pretty establishment with a deviation from Roti – the Bake and Shark. The ‘bake’ is fried puffed-up bread and the ‘shark’ consists of hunks of fleshy, fried shark meat, topped off with cucumber and tomato and a splash of spicy tamarind sauce. Those who are counting calories, proceed with caution. Those who are not – follow my lead and top it off with a delightfully tangy take on a Doubles for the ride.

Ali’s Trinidad Roti Shop

1267 Fulton Street My epic odyssey’s final stop might not be the original ‘Ali’, but it won points for popularity and novelty. The long line, combined with the decorated bulletproof serving window, suggested what’s cooking in the kitchen must be good, and it was. Having mastered the art of using my fingers to eat (and tell-tale turmeric stained tips to prove it) I opted for the Buss up shot Conch Roti. Instead of the curry being wrapped in a parcel, the Roti skin is served shredded on the side to be dipped into the moreish curry. Apparently the name comes from the meal’s likeness to a busted-up shirt after a fight. I’d hate to see the other guy.


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February, 2011

How To Pickle, Jar And Ferment

Wednesday, January 19 at Brooklyn Brewery PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDREW ST. CLAIR

John Till, Nick Horman, Brian Burns and Ray Schamp of Norman’s Best Pickles

Heather Parlier, Deb Gibbs, and Matt Mankovich

Pervaiz Swallwani, Rachel Wharton, and Annaliese Griffin


February, 2011

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The Production Line

We uncover how some of your favorite dishes and drinks came to be, and what path they took to get there... by Bec Couche

your local destination for all sweet treats WE CAN BE FOUND AT BROOKLYN’S WEEKLY ARTISTS & FLEAS MARKET FROM 12-8PM ARTISANAL “SPIRITED” COOKIES AND SEASONAL FRUIT TARTS ARE OUR SPECIALTIES

An egg cream, as prepared by Brooklyn Farmacy’s Gia Giasullo. Andrew St. Clair #1: THE EGG CREAM FROM BROOKLYN FARMACY According to local legend, Brooklyn’s relationship with the creamy, chocolatey bubbly drink known as the egg cream began in the early 1900s. A guy named Louis Auster rented a store on 2nd Avenue and 7th Street in Gowanus, and started rolling out the holy trinity of seltzer, milk and syrup to the locals as a refreshing and cheaper alternative to a milkshake. It was a winning combination. Fast forward to the present day in Carroll Gardens’ Brooklyn Farmacy for proof that the beverage has not lost any fizz with its fans. We spoke to co-owner Pete Freeman on what it takes to make an egg cream of which Auster would be proud. ALL MILK IS NOT CREATED EQUAL “We go through 8 gallons of milk a week, in summer it’s 20. All milk is not created equal. The larger the dairy collective – the less control over the end product. We use Hudson Valley – an organic, nine-farm collective in Kingston. From there, the milk then goes to a distributor. Normally, we go to the source, but it’s 150 miles to Brooklyn, and you need a lot of equipment to transport milk.” SWEET SYRUP “You can’t have an egg cream without U-bets Chocolate Flavored Syrup – you would be laughed off the block. We go through about four or five gallons a week of it. U-bet have been making the same syrup since 1903 – around the same time Brooklyn began to make egg creams. It’s a fifth generation family-owned business – and they are still manufacturing and producing in Brooklyn [416 Thatford Avenue, Brownsville].” THE HEART OF THE MATTER “Renovated soda fountains cost around $12-15,000, but my brother found one in Pittsburgh on eBay for $400. It was an early 1950s model Bastian Blessing, built in Chicago. I hopped on the overnight bus and got it. The guy who owned it had bought it at an estate sale from a juvenile detention center. He was a nice guy, and he had the intention of setting it up in his home, but never got round to it. We needed the whole neighborhood to help move it into the U-Haul. After that, I drove it back to Brooklyn, and Ronny Beberman set it up so we use pure, fresh NYC tap water. He is the seltzer guy – together with his father they do all the city’s restaurants, and they add authenticity and knowledge to what we are doing. The soda fountain is the heart of what we do.” TIP FROM THE SODA JERK The egg cream is still best drunk in one quick slurp, so not to lose its fizz. Brooklyn Farmacy and Soda Fountain is located at 513 Henry Street, Carroll Gardens, 718-522-6260, brooklynfarmacy.blogspot.com.

FOLLOW US ON FACEBOOK FOR CONTINUOUS HOLIDAY UPDATES FACEBOOK.COM/BROWNBAGBAKERY.BBB

LET US CATER YOUR PARTY CONTACT US FOR MORE INFORMATION LIZ@BROWNBAGBAKERYNYC.COM


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February, 2011

How To Pickle, Jar And Ferment

Wednesday, January 19 at Brooklyn Brewery, in association with Edible Brooklyn magazine

Jessica Childs of Kombucha Brooklyn

Samantha Seier of Edible Brooklyn and Erica Patino

Timothy Callahan of Brooklyn Brewery

Michael Dipelso and Kurt Seller

Rich Awn (Mombucha) and Eri Kanaoka

Jamie Eridon and Lex Olbrei

Deirdre Hering and Larissa Kyzer

Ana Paglione and Alyson Yaffe

Adam Pasick and Pearl Schenkel

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDREW ST. CLAIR... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072


February, 2011

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BROOKLYN BREAD

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February, 2011

Brooklyn Brewery Goes With The Flow

B

Expansion of its Williamsburg base will increase local production from 10,000 to 100,000 barrels a year

ROOKLYN Brewery has been a community-driven business since its inception 23 years ago. The company has given to arts organizations, parks, nonprofits and charities. It donates beer and money to Prospect Park Alliance’s events and fundraisers, sponsor the BAMcinemaFEST and donates to Brooklyn Historical Society. “There were certain years where the brewery gave more away in money and beer than it actually earned,” said Ben Hudson, marketing manager for the brewery. But thanks to a mix of the following ingredients – sound business judgment, marketing savvy and, most importantly, superbly brewed beers – the company has grown from a small startup to the third most common tap in New York. And with the recent purchase of a new warehouse, the Williamsburg-based brewery plans to keep on growing. “There are very few moments when we’re not interviewing someone for a job – it seems like we’re adding people weekly,” said Hudson. And, that

doesn’t mean the charity stops. Brooklyn Brewery continues to give, and the new space will allow them to do even more - like opening its event space for public use one night a week, or holding seminars on pickling and good food. So, what are the company’s overall ambitions for their new capacity? Brooklyn Bread’s Dan Mathers caught up with Steve Hindy, Brooklyn Brewery’s founder and president, to find out. What has changed at Brooklyn Brewery? We have installed a new brew house which is much more efficient than our old brew house, and it is twice the size. Ultimately, when we build out all the new fermenters it will brew 12 times what we’re brewing now. How much are you currently brewing? In 2010, we brewed 108,000 barrels of beer. How much of that was done onsite? 10,000 barrels of that was done in Brooklyn. The other 98,000 was done upstate. We brew under contract at Matt Brewery in Utica, where we have a brewmaster.

“We are always doing something new. We have five year-round beers, six seasonal beers and our 750ml bottles. With this new brew house we want to increase production of the Reserve and produce a new beer every four months that will be available in kegs or 750ml bottles.”

Brewmaster Garrett Oliver oversees the brewery’s award-winning line. Photography by Allen Ying

The Boston Beer Company, makers of Samuel Adams, originally brewed all of their beer under contract with Pittsburgh Brewing Company. Is this approach typical in the industry? I wouldn’t say it is typical. It is something that companies based in urban areas have sometimes resorted to because the cost of land and rent is so high. It was a way for us to get started and build up our production. With the new setup will you brew everything right here in Brooklyn? No. We will continue to brew around 100,000 barrels a year in upstate New York, but the growth that we expect for the company will all come from the brewery here. So the beer business is doing well? Actually, in 2009 beer consumption was down about 2.5% in the United States. That’s a whole lot of beer – like 5 million barrels. It was down another 2% in 2010. However, Brooklyn Brewery experienced 20% growth in both 2009 and 2010. How do you plan to expand? In the next three years we are hoping to increase our production up to 200,000 barrels, and all of that will be coming from Brooklyn. Do you plan on just producing more of what you’re already brewing, or will we be seeing lots of new beers? We are always doing something new. We have five yearround beers, six seasonal beers and we do our 750ml bottles. We also have the Brewmasters Reserve series, where we do a new beer every four months. With this new brew house we want to increase the production of the Reserve and produce a new beer every four months that will be available in kegs or 750ml bottles. Also, the Sorachi Ace – a Saison beer made with Sorachi hops specially developed in Japan – was originally a part of the Brewmasters Reserve series. That will be added to our list of year-round beers and is due out in the spring What is the current extent of Brooklyn Brewery’s distribution and how will that change? We are in 24 states. The only state west of the Mississippi River we go to is Texas, but in 2011 we will start selling in Minnesota. We also export to 16 countries. Our biggest export market is Sweden, and we also sell in Denmark, Finland, Italy and England. This year we’ll be in Norway, and we plan to continue expanding our exports. Do you plan on using this new space to do anything other than brew? We have


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Brooklyn Brewery is planning on nearly doubling its total annual production to 200,000 barrels, with half of that being produced in Williamsburg. an event stage downstairs where we are open to the public Fridays from 6-11pm. It becomes a beer bar where people can drink. We also do tours on Saturday from noon to 8pm and Sunday from noon to 6pm. That party room originally held 300 people, but about four years ago we put the 750ml bottling line in the party room, and it took up a third of the space. Now the bottling line has been moved into the new space, so we’re back to 300. With the extra room we are planning to be open daily for tours and for special events. What brought this on? We have been looking for a new space to expand for the last six years and couldn’t find any space in Brooklyn. It was really very difficult because there was a gold rush underway for residential development. It wasn’t until the economy went down the tubes that we were able to get more space over here. I guess the economy tanking has kind of been the silver lining for us. Of course, we were not wishing for the economy to collapse!


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February, 2011

Prospect Farm Winter Pot Luck Wednesday, January 19

Lawrence, Sammy and Melissa Lopata

Meaghan Linick

Sabine and Matt Fische-Daly

Maya Frei

Phil Shipman

J.T. Hinchen, Libby Avitabile, Tom Hinchen

Naomi Donabedian

Jay Smith (compost co-ordinator)

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072


February, 2011

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HealthCorps’ Chili Cook-Off At Brooklyn Brewery Friday, January 21 in Williamsburg

Kathryn Pologruto, Tom Kanenbley

Jessica Anders, Rob Roberts (HealthCorps)

Sakris Kalashian, Alvin Chan

Beth Chamberlain, Sandeep Soman

Rebecca Rinehart, Jessica Leinwood

Alex Mangone, Matthew Woods

Eric Downs, Greg Gallagher

Jeny Ninyo, Josh Gordon

Meghan Berry, Stephen Evans (HealthCorps)

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072


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HealthCorps’ Chili Cook-Off At Brooklyn Brewery Friday, January 21 in Williamsburg

Stefanie Casillas, Annie Novak, Kallie Weinkle (Roof Top Farms)

Nidhi Singh, Shweta Bonneau, Joan Burres, Lioudmila Wherroi, Alan Wherry

Kelly Kocinski, Ben Spoer , Laura Schwinder (Team In Training)

Janelle Petak, Katrina Sanders, Orly Ninyo

Jr. Denson, Sarah Fishstrom, Amy Barras (HealthCorps)

Fernando Rodriguez, Debbie Avila, Nate Yampolsky (Teen Battle Chef)

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February, 2011

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HealthCorps’ Chili Cook-Off At Brooklyn Brewery Friday, January 21 in Williamsburg

Matt Benchimol, Ben Gellis

Lisa Allette, Joel Allette

Erica Rodas, Jake Ross (HealthCorps)

Megan Geiger, Hannah Min, Brian Halton

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDREW ST. CLAIR... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072


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February, 2011

Four & Twenty Blackbirds

WE LOVE YOU Four & Twenty Blackbirds 439 3rd Avenue at 8th Street Gowanus, Brooklyn www.birdsblack.com

Pie by the slice in the shop, whole pies are made to order with 48 hours notice. Please call to order: tel 718.499.2917

Closed Mondays Tuesday to Friday: 8am–7pm Saturday: 9am–7pm Sunday: 10am–6pm


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From Soil To Plate

I

T’S only mid-January, but I’ve got the fresh food blues. Yes, there are greens, yes there are starchy potatoes and vibrant sweet tats to be found in abundance, but I’m craving bright, juicy, sappy and sweet. I find myself dreaming of planting peas after the danger of spring frost and the life affirming bitterness of early dandelion greens. But alas, those first delicacies of the new growing season are still months away. So thank all things good that there is one vegetable in particular that shines throughout the winter: carrots. During my farming days, I stuck freshly harvested carrots into each pocket of my mud-encrusted jeans as field snacks. When hunger would start to hit, I’d catch a glimpse of the slightly wilted, lacey greens dangling from my pockets and chomp into those hearty summer snacks. Although I’ll happily crunch through bunch upon bunch of carrots any time of year, winter carrots are, by far, the tastiest. In a recent interview, chef and local food celebrity Dan Barber said, “To get the root veg-

The monthly green report by Sara Franklin etables that all of us adore… these need to be stressed under several hard freezes. And, in fact, if stayed in the ground in the right soil with the right seeds, end up becoming carrots that far, far exceed in flavor, in sugar and in flavor, anything that’s grown in a monoculture in those warmer climates.” One winter interlude at the Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture in the southern Hudson Valley gave me access to the carrots whose praises Barber was singing, those delicate Mokums grown by farm manager, Jack Algiere. But I have been privy to winter carrots of many northeastern origins, including some from Brooklyn. Winter carrots can be dug from the ground well into the freeze – the effort it takes makes their sugary sweetness that much more rewarding. I’m a bit of a minimalist when it comes to preparing my produce. And carrots are no exception – my favorite way to consume them, by far, is in their raw state. But, if you’re looking for something a bit jazzier, I recommend this delightfully fluffy puree, which makes a fabulous dip, spread or side.

Carrot Puree with Ginger and Orange (Adapted from Bon Appetit, 1998) 3lbs carrots, cut into chunks 4 tablespoons sugar or honey 1/3 cup fresh orange juice 1/2 cup(1 stick) butter, cut into pieces 1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger 1 tablespoons grated orange peel 1 tablespoons fresh lemon juice Cook carrots and 3 tablespoons sugar/ honey in large pot of boiling salted water until carrots are very tender. Drain and return carrots to pot; stir over medium heat to evaporate excess moisture. In saucepan over medium heat, bring orange juice to simmer. Add butter, ginger and orange peel; whisk until butter melts. Whisk in lemon juice and remaining tablespoon of sugar/honey. Purée half of carrots and half of juice mixture in food processor at a time (or, for chunkier texture, use a potato masher or ricer) until smooth. Transfer to bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

BLANC&ROUGE “Excellent, wide-ranging selection, high end to low.” – NEW YORK TIMES

Organic and biodynamic selections Wine tastings every Wednesday Free delivery with no minimum purchase within DUMBO and Brooklyn Heights. Delivery elsewhere in Brooklyn and Manhattan is free for orders over $200 81 Washington Street, DUMBO 718-858-9463 Visit our online store at brwines.com


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Love Thy Neighbor

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A new column showcasing the best of Brooklyn’s artisans... by Joann Kim

KIN care is rarely the subject of contested discussions in casual conversation. Unlike the ease with which we discuss and favor organic, locally harvested food and the wonderful ways we can consume them, skin care lives in the private sector of routine maintenance and religious devotion to particular brands we discover after tumultuous runs of trial and error. It’s easy to be dedicated to certain products, leaving little room to educate and open up to alternatives, but with a little more attention and consciousness we can see that even products deemed natural and organic can be detrimental to our skin. Enter Sprout Wellness, a holistic skin care company overseen in Brooklyn by nutritionist Adina Grigore. Sprout Wellness uses the most basic ingredients such as apple cider vinegar and coconut oil to make an all-natural skin care products that is affordable, effective, good for the environment. And conveniently enough, it makes you feel good, too. “I try to make recipes with fewest and best ingredients and create products that will improve you in some way,” says Adina. The making of the brand has an obvious personal story attached. “I was sensitive to everything on the planet. I went to nutrition school because I found I could hardly eat without being symptomatic. I was shocked to learn how easy and effective making my own skin care was and how quickly my skin improved.” When teaching seminars about skin care and nutrition Adina was asked by people if she sold the products she preached about and better yet – could she not make it for them?

“So now, I make it for them.” Three years later, Sprout Wellness makes cleansers, toners, exfoliants, lip balm, and cream which is sold in local stores around Brooklyn, for now. When asked what major trials and tribulations she experienced in developing the products, Adina responded, “Getting people to care as much about skin care as they do about the quality of their food is difficult. I found people tend not to consider that they’re not only applying toxins on their body, but into their body.” Elements like animal fat, chlorox, and sulfates are not ingredients we’d enjoy imagining rubbing on our skin but it’s certainly a fact that’s not considered enough. Some household products that can be used to naturally improve and maintain healthy skin is coconut oil, a highly moisturizing element that is good for your hair, skin and lips. Sea salt is an exfoliant that is also antiinflammatory and helps fight bacteria. Using the most basic ingredients in right proportions can help even the most extreme cases of skin rashes and diseases such as

eczema. In the end Sprout Wellness is an endeavor created in hopes to educate consumers. “I want people to realize that it’s not hard and to pay attention to what they’re buying. I want it to empower people, to think about it as a DIY approach to taking care of your skin,” says Adina. The following recipe will attest, in its simplest form, that skin care doesn’t have to be an intimidating venture with chemicals, test tubes and foreign elements. Facial Exfoliant Enough for 1 facewash 1 tablespoon sea salt 1 tablespoon oats, lightly ground in blender 1 tablespoon almonds, lightly ground in blender Mix together, add a little to your palm with a bit of water. Scrub your face in circles, which helps trigger exfoliating affect. Leave on for 1-5 minutes. Wash off. So simple! For more info, visit Sproutwellnessnyc. com.

“In a café-crazed town, Iris is one of a kind.” “Best Café” in 2010 “Best of New York” issue, New York magazine Stumptown coffee ¯ Pastries, cookies and biscuits, all baked in-house All-day breakfast classics ¯ Sandwiches ¯ Salads For full menu and more details, visit us online at www.iriscafenyc.com 20 Columbia Place, b/w State & Joralemon | Brooklyn Heights | 718-722-7395 No computers or iPads please – take some time out from the real world!


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February, 2011

An Afternoon At Sun In Bloom Sunday, January 16 in Park Slope

Shannon Ferguson

Lisel Burns, Jorge Lamy

Elizabeth Whitcomb

Jennifer H. Villeneure, Laura Minor

Jessica Westermann, Jess Rooney

Madelyn Crudo Burke, Joan Lockwood

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072


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February, 2011

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Dim Sum, Lose Some

Bec Couche joins a Purple Yam class to learn the tricky art of the dumpling

Brooklyn Bread’s Bec Couche (center) listens attentively along with her classmates as Chef Kho shows the way. Photograph by Nichole McCall

T

HE Purple Yam launched their popular cooking series last year, inviting keen cooks into their basement kitchen to master various disciplines of Asian cuisine. So far classes have taken students through the prep stages of Philippine Adobo, Korean kimchi and mung bean pancakes, each session ending with a delicious groupmade feast. On this day, the students jostling for counter space in the between pots, pans, and an awful lot of meat cleavers, have one thing on their mind: Dumplings. Chef Kian Lam Kho, author of Chinese cooking blog redcook.net, is passionate about dim sum, and begins the class with a crash course in Cantonese culinary history. He explained dim sum means snack food and had been served in China for generations in tea houses and by street vendors. The dim sum we know started appearing in the early 20th in Hong Kong, drawing from Cantonese and Sichuan styles, which resulted in delicious juicy wontons, dumplings, pot stickers, egg rolls and shumai. Mouths watering, we donned our

aprons, and selected our cleaver (the Chinese kitchen weapon of choice), eager to get started. After Kho demonstrated authentic chopping styles for ingredients and rudimentary dumpling folding, he divided the group into two, assigning each three dishes. Panic ensued. Where’s a mixing bowl! What’s sesame oil? Are these garlic chives? Who has the white pepper? The moment of chaos quickly gave way to a sense of camaraderie – we all shared the goal of wanting to master the techniques and feast on the (hopefully) tasty results. Chopping and mixing duties were then democratically dealt between the students, with the coveted dumpling dough rolling and folding shared equally. Kho seemed proud as the kitchen’s order restored, and filled with the rhythmic chopping sound of the cleaver bringing out the aromas of garlic, ginger and scallion. Then… we hit a snag. The results using ready-made wrappers for the wonton, shumai and egg rolls were impressive (some said shop quality!), but the shrimp dumplings and pot stickers required dough made and rolled

from scratch and proved to be a little more challenging/disastrous. Kho’s versions were delicate, plump and perfect, while ours were clumsy, lumpy and borderline grotesque. Kho urged us not to be discouraged, a difficult task looking at our disfigured efforts. Had we let the team down? Would our dumplings be the eyesores on the table? Would we be forced to eat our creations? Would anyone notice if we leave early? Surprisingly, it didn’t matter. Kho was right. When it came to sitting down to enjoy our meal, everything looked great – including the beaten-by-the-ugly stick dumplings. Cooking had worked wonders, the crispy fried edges masking (nearly) all their imperfections, giving way to relief and a welldeserved and delicious feast. The Purple Yam’s Cooking Series is suitable for both beginners and experts, run from 12-4pm and are $65. For more information on the next class on February 5 featuring Korean BBQ, Bulgogi and Fried Chicken, check www.purpleyamnyc.com or contact Christina Newhard on purple.yam.nyc@ gmail.com, 917-309-3360.


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The Wine Column

Josh Cohen of Blanc et Rouge wine store offers his picks of the month

Ayala Champagne Brut Majeur NV ($34) My resolution this year? More Champagne! There’s always an excuse to bring a bottle home, like dinner: the Ayala is a classic match for seafood (mmm, seared scallops), but it’s also one of my go-to wines for hard to pair foods, like Vietnamese and sushi. The Ayala is crisp and elegant right out of the fridge, but let it warm up a bit and it gains complexity, balancing brioche richness and apple crispness with some chalky Champenois minerality on the palate. And if you don’t finish a bottle, it will keep for days in the fridge with a champagne stopper.

Kiralyudvar Tokaj Sec ($14) You may know Hungarian Tokaj as the ancient dessert wine, once drunk exclusively by popes, and later by the Soviet Union’s politburo. But there’s also a dry version that combines the complexity and also some of the warmth and richness of the sweet wine with the refreshing dry finish of wine you’d want to drink with dinner. Kiralyudvar, which means The King’s Court, is one of the top estates in the region and their sec, which smells of baked apples, honey and a touch of flower is a perfect winter white: try it with chicken, ham or pork loin.

Domaine de la Chevalerie Breteche 1996 How often do you get to drink 15-year-old wine – at $30? This delicious wine comes from Bourgeuil, in France’s Loire Valley. It’s made from Cabernet Franc, which is a parent of the better-known Cabernet Sauvignon. Typically characterized by more freshness and finesse than its sometimes lumbering progeny, Cabernet Franc can combine the stateliness of Bordeaux and the delicacy of Burgundy. The Breteche is a great example: it has flavors of wild blackberries and blackcurrants, as well as musk and mineral. The wine’s bright acidity makes it an excellent match for duck.


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February, 2011

An Afternoon At Sun In Bloom Sunday, January 16 in Park Slope

Olivia Lane

Rich Lovejoy

Sarah E. Workman

Rachel TanibaJeva

Adele Mancusu

Aimee Follette (executive chef/owner)

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072


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February, 2011

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Home Sweet Home

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Victoria Hagman, founder and owner of Realty Collective, chats to Dan Mathers about bricks, mortar, and good food

F YOU want the lowdown on an area, talking to a real estate expert is a good start. Especially if it’s someone like Victoria Hagman, who also happens to be a major local food advocate. In an interview with Brooklyn Bread, Victoria gave us the scoop on her favorite parts of Brooklyn. You started the agency in 2005? Yup. When you were 23? Actually, I was 24. That’s a lot of pressure for someone so young to be starting a company? I was excited by it. I kinda feel like I can do anything. I have the skills, and I knew all the resources were available to me to make it happen. It seemed like a no-brainer – I was good at what I did, and I felt like the people I was working with beforehand – if they could do it, I could do it. What were you doing before starting your company? I was in college. I’ve never done anything else. Never done anything else? In high school I worked at an amusement park every summer. I started there when I was 14, working the ticket booth. By the time I was in college I was running the tickets and the gaming – I ran all the games, had a bunch of employees. So, I figured if I could have a bunch of employees at 18, I’d be fine now. Why real estate? I started doing real estate when I was in college at Pace University. I went to school for art history and by the end of college I knew that I didn’t want to work in a gallery or a museum. So, it was going to be a little difficult for me to go anywhere. What do you offer your clients that makes you different? I think that we offer a more laidback atmosphere. You’re not meeting somebody who is wearing a suit and tie. We don’t rush people because we know it’s important to take time and make the right decision. Now, if you wait too long it’s not going to be there, but you don’t want to pressure people into making a decision that they could regret. We also offer other things like giving advice on renovation. We do staging for when you’re selling so you don’t have to get somebody else to do that. We offer a lot of in-house things that other people just don’t have. For example, we have two architects on the team, and I’m getting my masters in historic preservation. How is the Brooklyn market right now? There are a lot of buyers out there right now. Everyone realizes this is a good time to be buying if you have money. If you can get a mortgage, you can get something great for your money. The problem isn’t the real estate

Victoria in the well-appointed kitchen of her Red Hook apartment – she’s a member of the local CSA. Dan Mathers

market – it’s the mortgage market. Banks don’t want to lend to anyone who doesn’t have great credit and a lot of money to put down. And renters? You can get a great space in Brooklyn, and it’s cheaper than Manhattan. I mean, Brooklyn is just better – c’mon. You are an advocate for the local food movement. How so, and how did you get into it? I live in Red Hook, and we have a CSA that is amazing. They have not only a variety of different things that they bring, but they also have people come in and demonstrate recipes on the day of the CSA pick-up. They hand out recipes for the ingredients that are available that Sunday. And, it runs all the way through to Thanksgiving. It’s also great for the Red Hook community because they have all the kids from the projects and the Red Hook initiative all come in and maintain this farm that is right here in Red Hook. Is there one particular area of Brooklyn that is showing a lot of change? Gowanus. Because of the Superfund and Whole Foods coming to the area I think a lot of people are starting to look past the projects which really used to make it a very tough sell. Anywhere else? I think the Columbia Waterfront District has changed a lot. There are a couple of big condo developments that have been built, so there are a lot of people moving in. Because of that it seems like a lot of the businesses that have opened in recent years have been staying open. Take me through a day in the Columbia

Waterfront District. What would you eat for breakfast? I don’t eat breakfast. Coffee? I don’t do coffee. I drink chai. If I eat anything for breakfast I eat like a banana and oatmeal at home. I love like runny, greasy eggs, but that is like a brunch kinda thing for me and brunch is strictly on the weekends. So, what is your first stop for food during the week? For lunch I would get the sausage and broccoli rabe at Ferdinando’s Focacceria on Union Street. It’s a neighborhood secret that it’s an off-menu special that’s always available. It’s that or Kotobuki, the sushi place on Columbia. They have an awesome lunch special: $8 gets you salmon, bok choy and rice. Dinner? House of Pizza and Calzones on Union Street. I’d also go to Calexico, that taco place? They have some amazing sauces. Favorite spot for a drink? I used to go to Lido on Columbia, but it just reopened as MicNic and I haven’t been in, but it looks cute. Sometimes I go to B61 or Moonshine. I probably get out to drink more in Red Hook, so Bait & Tackle, and Brooklyn Ice House. Any good shopping ideas? There is an amazing place across the street from us called Brooklyn Collective. You can go there and buy handmade gifts from artists in Brooklyn. Anything else worth mentioning? Margaret Palca. It’s an amazing bakery on Columbia with great pumpkin cheese cake and a carrot cake that’s really good. They make really good sandwiches also, but the guy takes his time, so don’t go there if you’re in a hurry.


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Café Of The Month

We visit Abigail’s Café and Wine Bar, Prospect Heights

FEATURED DRINK: Espresso with steamed milk. Beans were roasted at Kitten Coffee in Brooklyn. Biscotti is made in house, cranberry and apricot

THE CUSTOMERS: Ben Tuber and Brigid Dunn. Ben answered... «Occupation? Writer. «What brings you here? Brigid, the wi-fi,and the coffee. «What were you thinking about before we interrupted you? About working on a paper and also moving to London. .

THE CUSTOMERS: Alana Krivo-Kaufman and Abigail Ellman. Abigail answered... «Occupation? Teacher. «What brings you here? The space and the proximity to the train. «What were you thinking about before we interrupted you? Housing justice and solidarity organizing.


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The Foodshed Market At The Commons Sunday, January 16 in Boerum Hill

Bowen Rodkey, Chelsea Stemple

Fred Zelinger

Heather Gartner

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February, 2011

The Foodshed Market At The Commons Sunday, January 16 in Boerum Hill

Danielle DiVecchio (Biscotti di Vecchio)

Ben Conniff (Luke’s Lobster)

Marisa Wu, Jerry Pfeifer

Meghan Long, Natalie A. Solei

Taso Manis (Swoon Sweets and Savories)

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072

Taso Manis (of Swoon Sweets and Savories) 0016


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February, 2011

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Bartender Of The Month

I

Abigail Gullo of Fort Defiance... interview by Bec Couche

N 1776, the role of Fort Defiance was to help General Washington sneak his troops across the East River, and to make Red Hook a difficult place for the British to get to. The fort did a good job, the Revolutionary War was won, and some 250 years later, Red Hook is still a difficult place to get to. We spoke to proud bartender Abigail Gullo about Fort Defiance’s modern role – less emphasis on artillery, more on great food and good cocktails – and most importantly, keeping the locals happy. How long have you been working here? Since May last year, but I was a customer from their first week of opening. Before I was working as a manager for a children’s theater company. There was a time in my life where I thought I would be opening a restaurant so I wanted to learn the business. Meeting the Fort Defiance owner St. John (pronounced Sin-jin) I realized that it was exactly the sort of place I would have wanted to open. Our chef is amazing, there’s great food, a great vibe, and great drinks. So, the owner’s name is St John, but pronounced Sin-jin? Yeah, I think it’s common in the UK. He has a St. John Martini on the menu – and everyone always pronounces it “St. John”, but he’s quite used to it. What sparked your love for cocktails? My grandfather taught me how to make a Manhattan when I was 12. As a kid I would go to diners and save the placemats, envisaging my own cocktail parties when I was older. In my 20s I lived in Dublin for a couple of years. I would have cocktail salons at my apartment, and I had my mom send me whisky cherries so I could make Manhattans, Cosmos and Gimlets. She also sent frozen H&H bagels – I was a bit of an ex-pat. Does the cocktail menu change seasonally? Yes, and that’s one of the things I enjoy the most, researching and sourcing hard-tofind items, and working with fresh marketdriven ingredients. We also specialize in creating cocktails that go well with food. St. John did a 5-course meal for New Year’s Eve based on the travels of cocktail aficionado Charles H. Baker; I was amazed how well the cocktails were paired with the food. What sort of crowd do you get? Our clientele is similar to the cuisine that’s popular right now – local and sustainable. We have a lot of people from Red Hook, who are proud to be Red Hookers. It’s a difficult place to get to, but we’ve got enough press lately that we’ve become a destination spot as well; it’s a nice stop off on the way to Ikea or Fairway. So there’s a real sense of family at Fort

Abigail commutes from Washington Heights to work at Fort Defiance. That’s commitment. Photograph by Allen Ying

Defiance? Yes! I have such a nice loyal group of regulars. We look after each other. I normally ride my bike from Washington Heights, and when that huge snowstorm hit in December, it hampered my commute. I had to walk twoand-a-half miles from Jay Street station, but there was a big Saints game on that night, and I didn’t want to miss it at the bar. We like to consider ourselves a New Orleans bar and loyal Saints fans (I have a Fleur de Lys tattoo on my arm). St. John borrowed a TV so we could watch it. We had a great time, but there was no way I was going to be able to make it back home in the blizzard. I had a couple of regulars putting up a fight as to who was going to put me up – it was very sweet. What do you love about your job? I never know who I am going to meet or talk to but I know I will be serving delicious food and drinks, and I know I will be happy. I must really love my job. Especially if I was happy to hike through all that snow just to get to work! Have you ever named a drink after a customer? Yes, there’s a drink called a Wiley, a bourbon virgin milk punch named after a boy who comes in here with his dad. He spent his 7th birthday here – his parents asked him where he wanted to go and he said Fort Defiance. I was pretty happy with that.

Cocktail recipe you can share? I usually like using rye and bourbon – I have a blog called ryegirlnyc.blogspot.com – but at the moment there’s a bunch of local gin distilleries that are popular. Joe Santos from Brooklyn Gin enlisted me to make a cocktail for the new production of John Gabriel Borkman at BAM, put on by the visiting Abbey Theater in Ireland. I used to go to that theater when I lived in Dublin so I liked how it was coming full circle. The Abbey Theater’s logo is a woodcut of a woman with an Irish wolf hound, so I did a play on the traditional Greyhound cocktail – and called it The Wolf hound. The Wolfhound 1 1/2oz Brooklyn Gin 3/4oz Cocchi Americano (an old school version of Lillet, a fortified wine) 3/4oz Aperol (Italian apertif with herbs and a hint of grapefruit) Blood orange slice Stir over cracked ice and serve up or on the rocks with a slice of blood orange, which are lovely, tart and in season now. Fort Defiance is open M-F for breakfast, lunch and dinner from 8am to late, except Tuesday, when they close at 3pm.


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The Foodshed Market At The Commons Sunday, January 16 in Boerum Hill

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH

Dog Habitat Rescue at Unleash: Brooklyn 216 Franklin Street Brooklyn 718.395.2298 rescue@doghabitat.org

Mike Sestito, Michael Hechme (Brooklyn Stash)

«Dog Habitat Rescue, founded in 2009, is the newest member of the Mayor’s Alliance for

Kaia, Jenny, and Richard Dirkson

NYC’s Animals. «Working with 150 Alliance Participating Organizations to increase adoptions from Animal Care and Control shelters and transform New York City into a no-kill community by 2015. Scott Bridi (Brooklyn Cured)


February, 2011

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The 4th annual Brooklyn Pie Contest was held at The Bedford in Williamsburg on January 23 – more photos on pages 12, 13. Photograph by Allen Ying


BROOKLYN BREAD

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February, 2011

The Foodshed Market At The Commons Sunday, January 16 in Boerum Hill

Christopher Kelly, Michelle Gillette

Patrick, Lilianna and Judy Inosanto

Joe Pfeifer, Mary-Pat Pfeifer (National Crab)

Carol Lang (Cibelli Chocolates)

Anthony Sannino (Sannino’s Bella Vita Vineyard)

Tiffany Johnson (Pure Goodies)

Brian and Karen Walters

Alison and Matt Etter

Matthew and Victoria Rosamond

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072


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February, 2011

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Brooklyn Bread 2011 Rate Card

Every month, 7,000 copies of BROOKLYN BREAD are delivered to 300 selected food and drink establishments in the wonderful borough of Brooklyn. The “One-Night Stand” rate (one issue only)

The “I Dig You, Let’s See Where This Goes” Rate

Full Page

$200

$180 .................$160

Half Page

$130

$117 ..................$104

Quarter Page

$80

$72

AD SIZE

The “Let’s Take This To The Next Level” Rate

(at least four issues) You save: 10%

(at least eight issues) You save: 20%

...$64

Rates are per issue and include ad design.

{

SIZE

Ad Specifications

DIMENSIONS

}

Full Page.................6.8” wide x 9.2” tall

Half Page.........................3.3” wide x 9.2” tall or 6.8” wide x 4.5” tall

Quarter Page...........3.3” wide x 4.5” tall

TO PLACE AN AD IN BROOKLYN BREAD, CONTACT: (917) 740-1072

advertise@brooklynbreadpress.com


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February, 2011

Sustainable Flatbush 1st Volunteer Potluck Social Sunday, January 16

Andy, Chris Kreussling (Sustainable Flatbush)

Melody Ross, Christina Ventura, Carla D. Ibrahim

Mela Ottaiano

Sheryll Durrant

Eric Godoy, Steffany Ballas

Keka Marlagao, Jocelyn Cohen

Madeline Nelson, Veronica Findlay

Stacy Roupas, Mikkos Cerda-Roupas

Louise Bruce, Gaby Waldman Fried

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072


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February, 2011

Page 63

Shopping Local

Celebrating the best of Brooklyn... by Sophie Slesinger

Butcher Block By Brooklyn Butcher Blocks

Mason Jar Lantern By Alyssa Ettinger

Hand-Made Apron From Brooklyn Mercantile

Handcrafted in Gowanus by Nils Wessel, with beautiful woods like Cherry and Walnut, these sturdy blocks instantly organize your prep area and support all the slicing, dicing, and fine chopping you can muster. To pick up one of these beauties contact Wessel directly through his website or follow his Facebook page to see what market he will be at next. www.brooklynbutcherblocks.com.

Whether you grew up below the Mason-Dixon Line drinking sweet tea or you experienced the gift of summer squash last season, everyone has a need for a few good Ball jars. Alyssa Ettinger takes the elegant route, handcasting them in porcelain and attaching a wire handle to create the perfect vessel for a simple votive candle. Visit Brooklyn Flea or her online shop. alyssaettinger.com.

This Fifth Avenue shop carries gifts such as handcrafted aprons, vintage and new fabrics, and custom upholstery. While trying on kitchen fashion and entertaining the possibilities of a new ottoman, be sure to check out complimentary table runners and cloth napkins for upcoming gatherings around the table. Brooklyn Mercantile, 335 5th Avenue, 718-788-1233, brooklynmercantile.com.

“Baked Explorations” Cookbook From Baked

Irresistible Cooking Classes At The Brooklyn Kitchen

Vintage Linen Napkins From GRDN

This is the second publication from the famous Red Hook sweet spot. It includes new recipes and killer photos to convince even the most resolved New Years dieter to indulge a little. Try the Sweet and Salty Brownies and the Buckeyes, famously documented by Deb of beloved New York blog, Smitten Kitchen. Baked, 359 Van Brunt Street, 718-222-0345, bakennyc.com.

While purchasing (or drooling over), some hard to find tools, sign up for a class at The Brooklyn Kitchen. Upcoming classes include lessons in wine tasting, home brewing, and pasta making. You can sign up online, but it’s worth a visit to marvel at all of the possibilities for the home cook. The Brooklyn Kitchen, 100 Frost Street, 718389-2982, thebrooklynkitchen.com.

When form meets function, it’s always a beautiful thing. These napkins are made from hand-woven vintage fabric of 80% linen and 20% cotton. The flax used was grown without pesticides on family farms, then harvested, processed and spun by hand. Not only will they add a touch of class to your dinner settings, they will last longer, too. GRDN, 103 Hoyt Street, 718-797-3628, grdnbklyn.com


Farmers_Gin_BW_Ad:Michters Real Rye Tasting Panel Ad 11/30/10 11:59 AM Page 1

“...infused with classy herbs like elderflower, lemon grass and angelica...[F]ragrant, a bit floral and not as bone-dry and piney as a typical London gin.” The New York Times – Florence Fabricant

Botanicals In Organic Balance

CHATHAM IMPORTS, INC., NEW YORK, NY (distilled from organic grain) www.chathamimports.com

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Profile for Brooklyn Bread Press

Brooklyn Bread February 2011 Vol. 2 No. 1  

Brooklyn Bread is a new magazine that celebrates the borough’s thriving food community and diverse food culture.

Brooklyn Bread February 2011 Vol. 2 No. 1  

Brooklyn Bread is a new magazine that celebrates the borough’s thriving food community and diverse food culture.

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