Growing Up With Shanghai- Xujiahui | 与沪成长- 徐家汇

Growing Up With Shanghai 与沪成长 Xujiahui 徐家汇

Recorded and Edited by Terence LLoren, Christina Li Photos by Weina Li Shanghainese Transcription by Jenny Zhang Growing Up With Shanghai- Xujiahui, No. 1, June 2016.

Published by BIVOUAC RECORDING. This book (contents, images, and design) is Copyright 2016 Bivouac Recording and may not be reproduced without permission. The audio is released under the Creative Commons License BY-NC-SA and is free to download and share as long as they are: credited to 'Bivouac Recording', are for non-commercial use, and must be under the same license if used in your work. Bivouac Recording still retains the copyright of these recordings. 'Growing Up WIth Shanghai' is a Bivouac Recording project. info@bivouacrecording.com http://www.bivouacrecording.com 录音师，编辑：罗天瑞 , 李沛佳 摄影师：李威娜 吴语译音：张依群 与 沪 成 长 — 淮 海 路 路 ，2016 年 6 月 。BIVOUAC RECORDING 出版。本刊物为双月刊。该书版权属于。未 经 许 可 不 得 翻 印 。 该 音 频 在 Creative Commons License BY–NC–ND 下发布。 该音频均可免费下载与分享，但 必须符合以下条件：标明版权属于 ‘Bivouac Recording’ 所有；非商业性用途；不进行任意修改。Bivouac Recording 仍保留此作品的版权。与沪成长是 Bivouac Recording 的一 个项目。在中国上海记录设计。

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关于与沪成长

About GUWS

“ 与沪成长 ” 是一系列与上海 年轻人一起完成的 “ 声音漫步之 旅 ”。他们生于 80 和 90 年代， 这些语音不仅记载了他们对成长 之地的亲切回忆也从讲述者的角 度对地理地点讲行过去和现在的 对比。同时讲述者会通过本身的 成长经历也反映了过去 30 年里上 海的讲步与发展。这些实地录音 由讲述人操沪语完成同时录音也 捕捉纪录到当日真实的环境声音 供世界各地的听者感同身受。

“Growing Up With Shanghai” is a series of soundwalks with young Shanghainese who were born and raised during the rapid modernization of their city in the 1980s and 1990s. These recordings capture not only their most intimate memories as they grew up, but, when contrasted with the present state of each location, also reveal the progress and growth Shanghai has undergone in the past 30 years. The current sounds of Shanghai, including that of the Shanghainese dialect, create a comprehensive present-day audio document that future generations can experience.

Xujiahui

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徐家汇

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简介

Introduction

本书为《与沪成长 — 徐家汇》语音 文档的辅助文本。书中记录语音文档 中对话译音，对照英文翻译，地点照 片以及与语音文档相符的路线图。

This book is a supplement to the Growing Up With Shanghai- Xujiahui audio track. It contains dialog transcripts and translations, area photographs, and a route map.

用触屏手机下载音频，请扫描左边的 二维码。如已用触屏手机阅读本文， Please download the audio for this walk by using your mobile device to 请点击二维码继续阅读全文。 scan the QR codes on the left. If you are *（ 手 机 版 使 用 Adobe Acrobat 阅 读 already using a mobile device to read this, click the QR codes to follow the 器） links. 本 书 每 页 文 字 顺 序：沪 语 译 音 （左）；普通话翻译（中 )；因为翻译 * (Use Adobe Acrobat reader for mobile.) （右） The three transcriptions / translations 如有兴趣与我们互动，请将您对这段 in this book follow this format on each 路线上的任何感想，照片通过扫描左 page with text: Shanghainese 边二维码快捷上传到我们的官方微博 transcription (left column); Putonghua 和脸书页。 translation (center column); English translation (right column).

As you walk, feel free to upload your thoughts and images onto the project pages on Facebook or Weibo by scanning the corresponding QR codes on the left.

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Xujiahui 录于 2009 年 7 月 3 日早上 10: 00。

录于 2009 年 7 月 3 日早上 10: 00。

刚开始这个项目时，我不知道该去哪 里，也不知道我会遇到什么样的人。 我的第一次漫步之旅是和我的上海朋 友 Maggie 一起去的，她告诉我她对 参加这个项目很有兴趣。

刚开始这个项目时，我不知道该去哪 里，也不知道我会遇到什么样的人。 我的第一次漫步之旅是和我的上海朋 友 Maggie 一起去的，她告诉我她对 参加这个项目很有兴趣。

一开始我就知道这次漫步之旅将是非 常有趣的。我们从一栋废弃的公寓楼 开始了。这栋废弃的公寓即将被拆 除，将来用于拓宽徐家汇。徐家汇是 上海新兴的购物中心及电子百货中 心。这栋公寓楼很安静，只有几家人 还住在这座废弃的楼房里。政府在 2002 年左右已经对大多数住户进行 了搬迁，并拆掉了公寓内部设施，准 备进行整体拆除。自从 Maggie 离开 这里后，她还是第一次回到这里，看 到现在的场景，勾起了她很多的回 忆，她觉得非常有趣。 我们继续沿着计划的路线前行，来到 了附近她曾就读的语言学校。这里的 街道熙熙攘攘，川流不息，可以听见 餐馆忙于准备午餐的声音，还有从当 地蔬菜市场买菜回家准备为心爱的人 做饭的人们。走在这条路上， Maggie 的 回 忆 很 具 体 ， 也 很 温 馨 —— 在当地的邮局买邮票，还记得 她母亲经常光顾的蔬菜市场。随着我 3

Recorded July 3, 2009 at 10:00 a.m.

When I first started this project, I didn’t know where it would lead or what type of people I would meet. My first walk was with my Shanghainese friend, Maggie, who told me she was interested in participating in this 一开始我就知道这次漫步之旅将是非 project. 常有趣的。我们从一栋废弃的公寓楼 开始了。这栋废弃的公寓即将被拆 From the beginning, I knew this walk 除，将来用于拓宽徐家汇。徐家汇是 was going to be amazing. We started in 上海新兴的购物中心及电子百货中 an abandoned apartment complex that 心。这栋公寓楼很安静，只有几家人 was ready to be demolished for the 还住在这座废弃的楼房里。政府在 future expansion of Xújiāhuì – a 2002 年左右已经对大多数住户进行 growing epicenter of shopping malls 了搬迁，并拆掉了公寓内部设施，准 and electronics stores. The complex 备进行整体拆除。自从 Maggie 离开 was quiet, save for a few families who 这里后，她还是第一次回到这里，看 still reside here amidst the derelict 到现在的场景，勾起了她很多的回 buildings. The government relocated 忆，她觉得非常有趣。 most of the residents around 2002 and have since gutted and prepared these 我们继续沿着计划的路线前行，来到 buildings for demolition. It was her 了附近她曾就读的语言学校。这里的 first time there since she had left and it 街道熙熙攘攘，川流不息，可以听见 was interesting to see the actual 餐馆忙于准备午餐的声音，还有从当 locations where her memories were 地蔬菜市场买菜回家准备为心爱的人 took place. 做饭的人们。走在这条路上， Maggie 的 回 忆 很 具 体 ， 也 很 温 馨 We continued along the route she —— 在当地的邮局买邮票，还记得 would take to go to her nearby 她母亲经常光顾的蔬菜市场。随着我 language school. The streets were

徐家汇

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Xujiahui 们继续深入居民街坊，街道上的嘈杂 们继续深入居民街坊，街道上的嘈杂 bustling with daily life, with the sound 声渐渐远去。快到番禺路时，我们慢 声渐渐远去。快到番禺路时，我们慢 of restaurants preparing for the 慢地往回走。 慢地往回走。 coming lunch hour and with people returning home from the local 由于这是第一次录音，该录音材料与 由于这是第一次录音，该录音材料与 vegetable market to cook for their 其他录音相比进行了较多的编辑。录 其他录音相比进行了较多的编辑。录 loved ones. Her memories along this 音暂停的部分是为了特别强调，这些 音暂停的部分是为了特别强调，这些 road were quite small and intimate – 几秒钟的无声材料表示少量已经耽误 几秒钟的无声材料表示少量已经耽误 buying stamps at the local post office 的时间。 的时间。 and the vegetable market where her mother used to shop. As we got deeper 请特别留意：走过废弃的公寓时，地 请特别留意：走过废弃的公寓时，地 into the residential neighborhood, the 上有一些凌乱的钉子和破碎的玻璃。 上有一些凌乱的钉子和破碎的玻璃。 amount of street noise dropped, and gradually crept back as we get closer to * 请注意：在编辑本书时尚可走入这 * 请注意：在编辑本书时尚可走入这 Pānyú Lù. 栋公寓，但当您亲临上海时，有可能 栋公寓，但当您亲临上海时，有可能 不能靠近了。 不能靠近了。 Since this was the first recording, it was edited more than the others. 起点 : 虹桥路 289 弄。 入口勒了宜山 起点 : 虹桥路 289 弄。入口在宜山路 Portions where the recording was 路山。 入口处走进然后左转 , 看见垃 21 弄。入口处走进然后左转 , 看见垃 paused have been deliberately 圾桶辰光停。 圾桶时停。 emphasized with a few seconds of silence as an indication that a small [0:09] [Map #1] 现在阿拉勒了虹桥路 [0:09] [Map #1] 现在我们是在虹桥路 amount of time has passed.

289 弄 ， 阿 拉 现 在 蹲 了一嗰 车 库 门 289 弄，我现在站在一个车库门口， 口，箇是一嗰牢老嗰车库，里厢停嗰 这是一个很老的车库，里面停的都是 Please be very careful when walking 侪是脚踏车，旁边就是阿拉屋里厢嗰 自行车，旁边是我家的老房子，现在 through the apartment. There are 老房子，现在已经侪部拆光了。阿拉 已经全拆光了。我们家老房子的一楼 scattered nails and broken glass on the 屋里厢老房子嗰一楼有一嗰小房间， 有一个小房间，是出租给一对小夫妻 floor. 是出租畀一对小夫妻嗰。勒了箇搭阿 的。在这里我听说有一个小赌场一样 拉听讲有一嗰小赌场一样嗰地方，当 的 地 方 ， 当 然 ， 现 在 称 作 “ 棋 牌 * Please note that the apartment 然，现在叫作 “ 棋牌室 ”，箇嗰棋 室 ”，这个棋牌室经常有很多人进 building was currently accessible at 牌室经常有老多人进进出出，基本上 进出出，基本上是男的。我妈和我说 the time of this writing. However, it 5

徐家汇 侪是男嗰。阿拉姆妈畀阿拉说里厢基 本上侪是玩牌、玩麻将，箇些事体勒 了以前侪是禁止嗰。听说警察好像也 来过。阿拉屋里厢蹲勒了俩楼， 靠 窗嗰地方，箇样就可以看见两扇门 了。阿拉勒了二楼嗰大窗口可以看见 一条走廊，箇条走廊走出去就是虹桥 路了。虹桥路勒了旁边有港汇、东方 商厦，以前是呒么嗰。阿拉箇搭附近 侪是七十年代嗰老房子，当然侪弗 高，一般六、七层楼，现在一个人侪 呒么了。另外一扇窗口望出去可以看 到箇嗰小区嗰大门，挨嗰大门出去应 该就是宜山路，穿过宜山路走就可以 到六院。 [ 上楼梯到俩楼左转到走廊尽头嗰单 位 现在是阿拉屋里厢（嗰老房子 里），现在老空，就有回声了。窗框 已经被拆掉了，挂窗帘嗰导轨还留 着。从箇里嗰窗口望出去可以看到几 棵树 [ 向东看 ] 。箇些树侪是别人自 己种嗰，阿拉曾经勒了迭些树下埋了 几只乌龟嗰尸体，从迭些沿街嗰小贩 买来嗰 “ 巴西彩龟 ” 。箇几棵应该 是枇杷树，小辰光就看着伊拉开花、 结果、还有人来採下来。箇扇窗望出 去，应该就是虹桥路了 [ 向南看 ] 。 箇条虹桥路现在变了老宽，以前老小 嗰。以前（阿拉屋里厢附近）侪是七 扭八弯嗰小马路，箇些小马路要转老

里面基本上都是玩牌玩麻将，这些在 以前都是禁止的。听说警察好像也来 过。我们家住在二楼， 靠窗的地 方，这样就能看见两个门了。我在二 楼的大窗口可以看见一条走廊，这条 走廊走出去就是虹桥路了。虹桥路现 在旁边有港汇、东方商厦，以前是没 有的。我们家附近都是七十年代的老 房子，当然都不高，一般六、七层 楼，现在一个人都没有了。另一扇窗 望出去可以看到这个小区的大门，那 个大门出去应该就是宜山路，沿着宜 山路走就能到六院。 [ 上楼梯到二楼左转到走廊尽头的单 位 ] 现在我在我家（的老房子里）， 现在很空，就有回声了。窗框已经被 拆掉了，挂窗帘的导轨还留着。从这 里的窗口望出去可以看到几棵树 [ 向 东看 ]。这些树都是别人自己种的， 我曾经在那些树下埋了几只乌龟的尸 体，那些沿街的小贩买来的 “ 巴西 彩龟 ”。这几棵应该是枇杷树，小 时候就看着它们开花、结果、还有人 来采下来。这扇窗望出去，应该就是 虹桥路了 [ 向南看 ]。这条虹桥路现 在很宽，以前很小的。以前（我家附 近）都是七扭八弯的小马路，这些小 马路要转好久才能到我家。后来（虹 桥路）拓宽了，就全拆掉了。在虹桥 路边还开过一间肯德基，应该是上海

may not be upon your visit.

Starting Point: Hóngqiáo Lù 289 Nòng.

Entrance on Yíshān Lù 21 Nòng. Walk in, turn left and stop when you see the garage on page 1.

[0:09] [Map #1] We are currently on

Hong Qiao Lu [ 虹桥路 ] 289 Nòng. I am standing in front of a garage. A very old garage. There are a lot of bicycles parked inside. Right next to it is where my old apartment building used to be.

This whole area is going to be demolished soon. There was a small room in our old house that was rented out to a young couple. I heard that there was an apartment that was almost like a little casino. You could call it a ‘mahjong room’ nowadays. A lot of people went in and out of this mahjong room, mostly men. My mother said that they played card games and mahjong there. These kinds of activities were forbidden before, and I heard that even the police came to stop people playing these games. My old apartment was on the second floor.

When you stand next to the window you can see 2 doors. Standing in front of the big window on the second floor 6

Xujiahui 多辰光才可以到阿拉屋里厢。后来 第一家肯德基 1，在东方商厦旁边， （虹桥路）拓宽了，就侪部拆脱了。 现在也没有了。生意大概不好了。 勒了虹桥路边上还开过一间肯德基， 应该是上海第一爿肯德基。 这是我和我外婆第一次去吃的地方 （肯德基）。我外婆那时候还是非常健 勒了东方商厦旁边，现在也呒么了。 康的，大概就六十几岁。带我去的时 生意大概弗好了。箇是我畀阿拉外婆 候我已经下课了，两个人很兴奋，走 第一次去吃嗰地方（肯德基）。阿拉 去那里一看有一个广告，广告上写了 外婆箇辰光还是侠气健康嗰，大概就 两个套餐，一个是送东西的，一个是 六十几岁。带阿拉去嗰辰光，阿拉已 不送东西的。我不懂，就随便点了一 经下课了，两嗰人老兴奋，走到挨面 个。因为看不清楚，我太矮了，看不 一看有一只广告，广告上写了两种套 清楚广告，结果买错了。那时候是送 餐，一种是送物事嗰，一种是弗送物 一个水壶，对孩子蛮有吸引力的，但 事嗰。阿拉弗懂，就随便点了一只。 是我没拿到，外婆又不识字，也对我 因为看弗清楚，阿拉太矮了，看弗清 没帮助。后来外婆老了，不和我们住 楚广告，结果买错了。挨辰光是送一 在一起了，在外面住了，所以这件事 只水壶，对小囡蛮有吸引力嗰，但是 我一直记得很牢。 阿拉没拿到，外婆又弗识字，也对我 没帮助。后来外婆老了，弗畀阿拉蹲 这地方现在很脏，都是建筑垃圾，全 勒了一道了，勒了外头蹲了，所以箇 是蚊子。这个角落很荫凉，天很热， 桩回忆我一直记得老牢。 我听见知了的叫声，就想起夏天小时 候自己一个人在家。我在这个房间和 箇地方现在老龌龊，侪是建筑垃圾， 奶奶一起住，我从小是弹古筝的，古 侪是蚊子。箇只角落老早老荫凉，天 筝就放在这个房间里，老房子的隔音 老热，我听到知了嗰叫声，就想起夏 不好。隔壁邻居和我们关系不错，什 天小辰光自己一嗰人蹲勒了屋里厢。 么话都会说。我从六岁就开始弹古 阿拉勒了箇嗰房间畀奶奶一道蹲，我 筝，一直弹到高中毕业，去其他城市 从小是弹古筝嗰，古筝就放勒了箇嗰 读大学之后就中断了。这些年之中我 房间里，老房子嗰隔音弗好。隔壁邻 是觉得蛮辛苦的，别人说学琴的孩子 居畀阿拉关系弗错，啥闲话侪会讲。 是没有童年的，我就深有体会。那时 阿拉从六岁就开始弹古筝，一直弹到 候我爸爸妈妈是双职工，都要上班， 7

you will be able to see an alleyway leading to Hóngqiáo Lù. The Gateway shopping mall and Eastern shopping mall are on Hóngqiáo Lù, which was not here before. All the houses near my old house were built in the 1970s. They are not high, about 6 or 7 floors. Now, no one lives here anymore. If you look out another window you can see the neighborhood’s gate. Yíshān Lù is right outside of the gate. If you go out from here it should be the ‘Liu Yuan’… Oh no, I think I made a mistake here…

[Go up the stairs to the second floor, turn left, go to the apartment at the end.]

Right now, we are in my old apartment.

It is completely empty now, so you can hear the echos. The window frames are all taken out but you can still see where the curtains used to hang. From here you can see there are a couple of trees outside of the window [Looking west].

These were planted by the neighbors around here. I buried my pet tortoises here – those Brazilian Colorful tortoises you can buy on the street.

These trees should be ‘pípa’ trees.

When I was young, I used to love to see them blossom and fruit. People would

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Xujiahui

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徐家汇 高中毕业，去其他城市读大学之后就 中断了。挨些年当中阿拉是觉着蛮辛 苦嗰，人家讲学琴嗰小囡是呒么童年 嗰，我就深有体会。挨辰光阿拉爸爸 妈妈是双职工，侪要上班，屋里厢里 只有老人，老人是特别宠小囡嗰，弹 弗弹是弗要劲嗰（只有老人勒了嗰情 况）。伊拉会要阿拉休息一下，看看 电视什么嗰。但是我老怕阿拉姆妈， 伊老凶嗰，伊会逼勒我弹。当然了， 花了嘎许多钞票，还请了老师，本来 是 十 元一嗰 小 时 ， 后 来 涨 到 了一百 元，现在可能更加贵。我已经老长辰 光呒么上过课了。阿拉嗰老师现在也 应该有八十岁了，应该是想弹也弹弗 动了。隔壁邻居听到阿拉弹琴，阿拉 姆妈回屋里厢有辰光会去问伊拉 “ 阿拉屋里厢小囡有呒么弹琴？或 者旁敲侧击一下 ” 邻居就会讲（弹 或呒么弹）。因为隔音弗好，老房子 了，墙壁就薄薄一层，箇琴声侪传过 去了。可以整嗰走廊侪听得见。老房 子夏天比较热，屋里厢里嗰大门总是 开勒嗰，只有外面一扇铁门锁勒，箇 样隔壁阿姨要是有啥物事吃，侪会叫 声阿拉，西瓜咯什么嗰。 阿拉蹲勒了箇搭直到阿拉高中毕业， 阿拉屋里厢买房子勒了别嗰地方，实 际上我是老喜欢箇里嗰。为啥好呢？ 因为虽然房子老了，但是交通侠气方

家里只有老人，老人是特别宠孩子 的，弹不弹是无所谓的（只有老人在 的情况）。他们会要我休息一下，看 看电视什么的。但是我很怕我妈妈， 她很凶的，她会逼着我弹。当然了， 花了这么多钱，还请了老师，本来是 十元一个小时，后来涨到了一百元， 现在可能更加贵。我已经很长时间没 有上过课了。我的老师现在也应该有 八十岁了，应该是想弹也弹不动了。 隔壁邻居听得见我弹琴，我妈妈回家 有时候会去问他们 “ 我们家孩子有 没有弹琴？我刚好出去一下 ” 邻居 就会说（弹或没有弹）。因为隔音不 好，老房子了，墙壁就薄薄一层，这 琴声都传过去了。可能整个走廊都听 得见。老房子夏天比较热，家里的大 门总是开着的，只有外面一扇铁门锁 着，这样隔壁阿姨如果有什么东西 吃，都会叫上我，西瓜什么的。 我住在这里直到我高中毕业，我们家 买房子在别的地方，其实我是很喜欢 这里的。为什么好呢？因为虽然房子 老了，但是交通非常方便，想去哪里 都行，我现在只需要走走路就到徐家 汇了，现在徐家汇也算另一个市中心 了。比较主要的商业区，像天文台测 温度，这里都是要报出来的。我以前 最喜欢去的是港汇，因为里面很大， 非常宽敞，比起这种老牌，像 “ 汇

climb up to pick the fruits. This road in front of the window [Looking south] should be Hóngqiáo Lù. This road has been widened during the years. It used to be really narrow. There are many of these narrow roads around here. I would have to walk a long time and take many turns before getting home, but after [Hóngqiáo Lù] was widened, all those small roads are gone. The KFC on Hóngqiáo Lù, which should be the first KFC in Shanghai 1 used to be right next to the Eastern Mall but it is gone now because the business was not that good. This was the first fast food place I took my grandmother. My grandmother was very healthy then, I think she was in her 60s. We went one day after I finished school and we were both very excited. After walking in we were reading all of the menus.

They had two set meals that we could choose from. One came with a free gift and one didn’t. I couldn’t really understand it and because I was so short I could not read the menu clearly so I just ordered whichever looked good. In the end, I found out that I got the wrong one. The free gift which was a water bottle and I really wanted it.

Grandmother didn’t read the menu 10

Xujiahui 便，想去阿里侪可以，阿拉现在只需 要走走路就到徐家汇了，现在嗰徐家 汇也算另一嗰市中心了。比较主要嗰 商业区，像天文台测温度，箇里侪是 要报出来嗰。阿拉以前最喜欢去嗰是 港汇 ，因为里厢老大，非常宽敞， 比起箇种老牌，像 “ 汇金 ” 、“ 六 百 ” ，挨辰光相当嗰宽敞畀舒适， 有辰光屋里厢里弗开空调了，夜道一 嗰人散步就会散过去，蹲一歇再回 来。上海人有嗰习惯，喜欢勒了外 头 “ 乘风凉 ”，不过阿拉屋里厢呒 么箇种传统。阿拉姆妈以前是属于小 资产阶级，伊觉着自己还是比较有身 份嗰，她弗喜欢拿把躺椅摆了外头睡 勒了外头。伊觉着老难看，呒样子， 呒腔调。 [ 穿过马路有一扇小门侬可以穿过 ] 现在阿拉过了马路马上就要到乐山新 村了，前头有新东方嗰学堂。箇嗰学 堂阿拉侠气熟悉，从小上到大，自从 伊开了之后我就一直去。阿拉以前是 读英语学堂嗰，对语言老感兴趣，放 寒暑假，除了弹琴阿拉侪会去挨面上 课。

金 ” 、“ 六百 ” ，那时相当的宽 敞和舒适，有时候家里不开空调了， 晚上一个人散步就会走去那里，待一 会再回来。上海人有个习惯，喜欢在 外面 “ 乘风凉 ”，但是我们家没有 这种传统。我妈以前是属于小资产阶 级，她觉得自己还是比较有身份的， 她不喜欢拿把躺椅睡在外面。她觉得 很难看，没样子，没腔调。[ 穿过马 路有一扇小门你可以穿过 ] 现在我们 过了马路马上就要到乐山新村了，前 面有新东方的学校 2。这个学校我非 常熟悉，从小上到大，自从它开了之 后就一直去。我以前是读英语学校 的，对语言很感兴趣，放寒暑假，除 了弹琴我都会去那里上课。

[9:58] 现 在 对 面 开 了 间 锦 江 之 星 旅

馆 3 ，以前我记得是间厂房吧？还是 什么公司？这栋楼空着很长时间了， 现在终于变成一座旅馆了。我还是第 一次注意到。旁边是个卫生中心，它 也是后来才开的。我记得去看过病的 也配过药，感冒什么的小毛病都是在 那里看的。锦江之星旅馆右边是个 “ 丽花皇宫 ”4 [Map #2]，好像是个 夜总会。是很早前就有的，以前看它 [9:58] 现在勒了对面开了间锦江之 的招牌还觉得挺好看的，现在看起来 星旅馆，以前阿拉记得是间厂房吧？ 有点老（老土、旧），黄兮兮的都锈 还是啥公司？箇栋楼 空勒老长辰光 了。 了，现在好不容易变成一座旅馆了。 11

either. After that, my grandmother got older and moved somewhere else in town so I saw her less frequently. I never forgot this outing we had together.

Our apartment is very dirty now, filled with construction garbage and full of mosquitoes. This corner is very cool even in really hot weather. I can hear the sounds of cicadas. When I was young and was home by myself I would stay in this room with my grandma. I started learning how to play the Chinese Harp since I was a kid, and the harp was put right in this room. Walls in old houses like this do not keep the sound in. We had a pretty good relationship with our neighbors so we could talk about anything to each other.

I started playing the Chinese harp when I was 6 and continued playing until my high school graduation. I stopped when I went to another city for University so it was tough to keep learning the harp. They say that kids who played an instrument since they were young do not have a childhood, and I know exactly what that means.

徐家汇

12

Xujiahui

13

徐家汇 阿拉还是第一趟注意到。旁边是嗰卫 生中心，伊也是后来才开嗰。我记得 去看过病嗰 也配过药，感冒啥嗰小 毛病侪是勒了箇搭看嗰。锦江之星旅 馆 右 面 是 嗰 “ 丽 花 皇 宫 ” [Map #2]，好像是嗰夜总会。是老早就有 嗰，以前看伊嗰招牌还觉着蛮好看 嗰，现在看起来有点老（老土、 旧），黄兮兮嗰侪锈脱了。

[10:52] 这 条 路 边 原 本 有 个 公 交 车 My parents both had full time jobs so 站，原本是 26 路。这辆 26 路是条非 常长的线路，可以通到老西门。小时 候我非常喜欢去城隍庙，我妈妈就带 我乘这路车，慢吞吞慢吞吞的才能到 那里（城隍庙）。以前，没有地铁， 就觉得乘公交车不错。有了地铁之后 我就再也不原意乘这辆车了，非常 慢，很折磨人的耐心。

[10:52] 箇条路旁边老早有嗰公交车 [11:50] 这里有个菜市场，是我不原 站，是 26 路。箇辆 26 路是条侠气长 嗰线路，可以通到老西门。小辰光阿 拉非常喜欢去城隍庙，阿拉妈妈就带 阿拉乘箇路车，慢吞吞 慢吞吞嗰才 可以到挨面（城隍庙）。以前，呒么 地铁，就觉着乘公交车弗错了。有了 地铁之后阿拉就再也弗原意乘箇辆车 了，侠气慢，老折磨人嗰耐心。

意来的地方。大家都知道，菜场就是 非常臭，特别是夏天。夏天在我的印 像中除了知了声就是西瓜（腐烂后） 的臭味。上海人有种习惯不太好，喜 欢乱扔东西，垃圾箱外面和里面，西 瓜都要放了很久才会清理掉。非常 臭，我最讨厌的就是走过这种地方的 旁边。

[11:50] 箇里有嗰菜市场，是阿拉弗 [ 开始哼哼 ]

原意来嗰地方。大家侪晓得，菜场就 是侠气臭，特别是夏天。夏天勒了我 嗰印像中除了知了声 就是西瓜皮 （腐烂后）嗰臭味。上海人有种习惯 弗太好，喜欢乱厾物事，垃圾箱外面 畀里厢，西瓜皮侪要放了老长辰光才 会清理特。侠气臭，我最讨厌嗰就是 走过箇种地方嗰旁边。 [ 开始哼哼 ]

[12:55] [ 乐山路上右转 ] 现在我们来 到了乐山新村，它附近现在还没有怎 么变样，还是有很多卖小吃的卖水 果。还有一个老邮局 5，曾经我们家 集过邮。我妈玩花样，我也不知道为 什么要集邮，每个月都有邮票，每个 月就要拿本本子，去邮局领邮票，就 在这间小邮局 [Map #3]。

they were always at work. Only my grandparents were at home with me and they spoiled me, so they didn’t really care if I practiced hard or not.

They would let me relax and watch TV. But I was always scared of my mother.

She was very tough on me. She was always forcing me to practice because she had already spent money for the harp and also the lessons. It started at 10 yuan per hour then it slowly went up to 100 yuan per hour. Maybe it’s even more expensive now. I have not had a harp class for a long time. I am pretty sure my teacher must be in his 80s now, and has already retired. All my neighbors could hear me practice, so when my mother came home she would check up on me by asking the neighbors, “Did my daughter practice today?”. The neighbors could always tell her the truth because the harp could easily be heard through the thin walls. I bet the whole hallway could hear me practicing. During summer it would get really hot in the apartment so we would always keep the windows and front door open but the iron gate closed. The Ayi 2 from next door would come to call me whenever they had 14

Xujiahui

[12:55] [ 乐山路上右转 ] 现在阿拉来 [14:32] 我 有 很 多 同 学 ， 都 住 在 这 good food like watermelons, etc. 到了乐山新村，伊附近现在还呒么哪 能变样，还是有老多卖小吃嗰卖水 果。还有一嗰老邮局，曾经阿拉屋里 厢集过邮。阿拉姆妈孛相花样，阿拉 也弗晓得为啥要集邮，每嗰号头侪有 邮票，每嗰号头就要拿本簿子，去邮 局领邮票，就勒了箇间小邮局 [Map #3]。

[14:32] 阿拉有交关多同学，都蹲勒 了箇搭。小学同学，初中同学，阿拉 侪勒了一道，伊拉就蹲勒了乐山新 村，两栋绿色嗰楼里。以前还觉着绿 颜色老鲜艳，现在已经暗脱了，变墨 绿色了。

[14:56] 箇搭旁边就是徐汇区乐山菜 场 [Map #4] 。箇嗰菜场侠气老，阿拉 姆妈就经常畀邻居阿姨跑到箇搭买 菜，侪拎着老多物事回去。阿拉姆妈 以前有段辰光手受伤了，就是因为拎 了太多菜，比方两只西瓜畀老多嗰菜 拎回去。后来经过我多次提醒，伊终 于放弃，弗再拿嘎西多菜回去了。现 在老多老阿姨侪推一种铁车子（折叠 嗰有滑轮嗰篮），我觉着蛮好。不过 阿拉妈觉着弗好，伊讲拎上楼弗方 便。难么阿拉就放弃了，算了（弗畀 姆妈买了）。 15

里。小学同学，初中同学，我们都在 一起，他们就住在乐山新村，两栋绿 I lived here until I graduated high 色的楼里。以前还觉得那绿色很鲜 school. We bought a new house 艳，现在已经旧了，变墨绿色了。 somewhere else but I actually liked living here more. Although the house [14:56] 这里旁边就是徐汇区乐山菜 is old, its central location makes it easy 场 6 [Map #4] 。这个菜场非常老，我 to get to popular places in the area. It’s 妈妈就经常和邻居阿姨跑来这里买 just a short walk to Xújiāhuì [ 徐 家 汇 ]. 菜，都拎着很多东西回家。我妈以前 Nowadays, Xújiāhuì is considered 有段时间手受伤了，就是因为拎了太 another center of Shanghai. It’s a 多菜，比如两个西瓜和许多的菜拎回 major commercial area. When they do 家。后来经过我们的多次提醒，她终 Shanghai’s weather report on TV, they 于放弃不再拿这么多菜回家了。现在 would announce Xújiāhuì’s weather as 很多老阿姨都推一种铁车子（折叠的 a separate area. I used to love the 有滑轮的篮），我觉得那很好。但是 ‘Gateway Mall’ [ 港 汇 ] 3 because it was 我妈觉得不好，她说拎上楼不方便。 so spacious and comfortable compared 那我就放弃了，算了（不给她妈买 to the older malls such as ‘Huìjīn’ [ 汇 了）。 金 ] and ‘600’ [ 六百 ] 4.

[15:48] [ 秀山路上左转 ] 这条路通往 Sometimes we would not turn on the 番禺路，就是我刚才所说的新东方的 所在地 ，旁边是交通大学的研究生 宿舍。我曾经进去过一次，还是蛮干 净的。但是交大的盒饭特别难吃。以 前我在新东方读书，全天的课，中午 出去吃饭。第一次吃，由于不熟悉地 形（附近的店铺等等），就买了他们 的（交通大学食堂的）盒饭，十元一 份，当时是很贵的，又难吃又没有什 么菜，所以说学校都是很黑的。上了

air conditioner at home, so I would walk by myself at night to these malls to kill some time. Local Shanghainese have this habit, they go outside and ‘chéng fēngliáng’ [ 乘 风 凉 ] 5 in the summer winds, but we didn’t have this kind of tradition at home. My mother was considered a little ‘bourgeois’ and she thought it was tasteless to put a chair out and enjoy the wind outside.

徐家汇

[15:48] [ 秀山路上左转 ] 箇条路通往 多了，这条路上的餐厅我都知道了。 She thought it just looked bad. [Go down 番禺路，就是阿拉刚刚讲嗰新东方嗰 所在地 ，旁边是交通大学嗰研究生 宿舍 。阿拉曾经进去过一次，还是 蛮干净嗰。但是交大嗰盒饭特别难 吃。以前我勒了新东方读书，整天嗰 课，中午出去吃饭。第一次吃，由于 弗熟悉地形（附近嗰店铺等等），就 买了伊拉嗰（交通大学食堂嗰）盒 饭，十元一份，箇辰光是老贵嗰，又 难吃又呒么啥菜，所以讲学堂侪是老 黑嗰。上了多了么，箇条路上嗰餐厅 阿拉侪晓得了。像是 “ 小乐惠 ” 箇 些阿拉侪认锝了，就会进去吃，弗想 吃（饭）嗰话阿拉就会去隔壁嗰农工 商超市，买些面包，酸奶。酸奶是阿 拉最喜欢吃嗰物事，小辰光夏天吃 觉着老清凉。现在晓得了，箇物事比 牛奶还要好。阿拉小辰光把牛奶当水 喝，侪冰勒了冰箱里，我弗大吃冷 饮，就喝牛奶，灌下去，箇感觉弗要 太好哦！

[17:31] 箇 搭 走 出 去 就 是一嗰 汏 浴 中

心，以前箇搭门口停满了公车，挨些 领导、小老板，侪来按摩，按照小辰 光对阿拉嗰教育来讲，箇样是老弗好 嗰，公款消费嘛 ! 现在也见怪弗怪 了，习惯了。

[18:32] [ 勒了番禺路十字路口停下 ]

像是 “ 小乐惠 ” 7 这些我都认识 了，就会进去吃，不想吃（饭）的话 我就会去隔壁的农工商超市，买些面 包，酸奶。酸奶是我最喜欢吃的东 西，小时候夏天吃觉得很清凉。现在 知道了，这东西比牛奶还要好。我小 时候把牛奶当水喝，都冰在冰箱里， 我不常吃冷饮，就喝牛奶，灌下去， 感觉很好！

[17:31] 这 里 走 出 去 就 是一个 洗 浴 中

心，以前这里门口停满了公车，那些 领导、小老板，都来按摩，以小时候 对我的教育来说，这样是很不好的， 公款消费嘛 ! 但是现在也见怪不怪 了，习惯了。

[18:32] [ 在番禺路十字路口停下 ] 一 般我就是走这条小弄堂去上海影城看 电影的。上海影城是我最熟悉的一个 电影院，第二是衡山电影院 8。这两 间的早晨票都非常的便宜，我还记得 衡山电影院的一个录像厅，那个录像 厅叫什么我忘了，反正（电影院里） 一共两个，里面经常会放些香港的老 片子，枪战片。小时候我不敢看这种 片子，因为妈妈说这种片子不好。后 来大了，我还是蛮喜欢的，里面就有 张曼玉，很早拍的一个片子，它的主 题歌我还记得很清楚，是张学友的

the stairs to the entrance.]

[Directly across the road, there will be a small gate to a residential area you can go through, continue to Guǎngyuán Xī Lù.]

When we cross this road [Yíshān Lù] we will be at ‘Lèshān New Village’ [ 乐 山新村 ], and the ‘New Oriental School’ [ 新 东 方 的 学 校 ] 6 is right here in the front. I am very familiar with this place because I took extra classes here when it first opened. I used to study English as a major in my school so I was very interested in languages. Every winter and summer holiday, in addition to my harp lessons, I would come to class here.

[9:58] [Turn left on Guǎngyuán Xī Lù.]

Now they have opened a ‘Jǐnjiāng Star Motel’ [ 锦 江 之 星 旅 馆 ] 7 right across from the school. I think this used to be an empty factory or some kind of office building. This building had been vacant for a long time and now it has finally become a motel. This is the first time for me to see this place. Right next to it is a health center, which also opened after I left this neighborhood. I remember coming here when I was

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徐家汇 一般阿拉就是走箇条小弄堂去上海影 城看电影嗰。上海影城是我最熟悉嗰 一嗰电影院，第二名才是衡山电影 院。箇两间嗰早晨票才是侠气嗰便 宜，我还记得衡山电影院嗰一嗰录像 厅，挨勒录像厅叫啥么子 我忘记 了，反正（电影院里）一共两嗰，里 厢经常会放些香港嗰老片子，枪战 片。小辰光我弗敢看箇种片子，因为 姆妈讲箇种片子弗好。后来大了，我 还是蛮喜欢嗰，里厢就有张曼玉，老 早拍嗰一嗰片子，伊嗰主题歌我还记 得老清爽，是张学友嗰 “ 吻别 ”， 箇首歌够老了，（看电影嗰辰光）是 我第一次听到。还弗是伊专辑里嗰， 箇辰光是 1990 年。我弗晓得为啥我 会记得箇么清爽，箇也是我第一次看 比较血腥嗰香港枪战片。后来就一直 弗大敢看。我勒了上海影城看嗰我最 喜欢嗰动画片 “ 狮子王 ”，阿拉有 嗰妹妹，后来伊也去看了，箇辰光应 该只有七八岁，伊拉姆妈畀 阿拉讲 伊看完后吓死了，看勒哭出来了。不 过我箇辰光看勒侠气投入，（觉着） 侠气好看，一直推荐小朋友们去看， 是我嗰动画片启蒙片，相当于。畀箇 种 “ 葫芦娃 ” 都弗可以比，人家是 做嗰更加嗰精致许多。

“ 吻别 ”，这首歌够老了，（看电影 的时候）是我第一次听到。还不是他 专辑里的，那时候是 1990 年。我不 知道为什么我会记得这么清楚，那也 是我第一次看比较血腥的香港枪战 片。后来就一直不大敢看。我在上海 影城看的我最喜欢的动画片 “ 狮子 王 ”，我有个妹妹，后来她也去看 了，那时候应该只有七八岁，她妈妈 和我说她看完后很害怕，看得哭出来 了。但是我那时候看得非常投入， （觉得）非常好看，很推荐小朋友们 去看，是我的动画片启蒙片，相当 于。和这种 “ 葫芦娃 ” 都不能比， 人家是做的更加的精致许多。

sick sometimes to get medicine. For things like colds or other small things, I would come here for a quick check–up.

There is a ‘Lí Huā Palace’ [ 丽花皇宫 ] 8 [Map #2] on the right of the ‘Jǐn Jiāng Star Motel’, maybe some kind of night club. It has been here forever. I used to think the signage was very pretty but now it looks so old fashioned and out of place. It’s all yellow and rusted now.

[10:52] There used to be a bus stop on

the curb here. It used to be a stop for bus #26. Bus #26 has a very long route.

It passes by the ‘Old West Gate’ [ 老 西 门 ]. I used to love to go to the ‘Chéng Huáng Temple’ [ 城 隍 庙 ]. My mother would take me there with this bus. It is very slow and takes forever to get there. This was when there was no subway in Shanghai yet, so taking the bus was the best way to get around. But after the subways were built, I would not take this bus anymore. Riding a bus was too slow and took a lot of patience.

[Starts humming.]

[11:50] There is a local food market

here and I don’t like it here too much.

Everyone knows that the food markets 18

Xujiahui in Shanghai stink – especially in the summer. My only memory of summer around here was the sound of cicadas and the smell of rotten watermelon.

Local Shanghainese have a kind of bad habit – they throw a lot of garbage on the street. Whether it is inside or outside of the garbage bin, the garbage usually takes a long time to be collected. It stinks like hell and I hate walking by here.

[12:55] [Turn right on Lèshān Lù.] Now

we are in the ‘Lèshān New Village’. Its surroundings have not changed much.

There are still a lot of vendors for snacks and fruits, and an old post office 9. My family used to collect stamps. My mother loves these kinds of things. I had no idea why we did it but every month when new stamps were issued we would take this little book to go to the Post Office to collect the new stamps. It is this little Post Office right here. [Map #3]

[14:32] I have a lot of classmates who

live around here. During Elementary School and Junior High we used to hang out together all the time. They mostly lived in the “Lèshān New 19

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徐家汇 Village” – in these two green buildings.

I used to think the green here was very vibrant, but now it looks old. It’s almost a dark shade of green now.

[14:56] Right next to the residential

area is the Xuhui District ‘Lèshān Vegetable Market’ [ 乐 山 菜 场 ] 10 [Map #4]. This market is very old. My mother used to come here with our neighbor Ayi to buy vegetables everyday. They would take so much food home. My mother’s hand hurt for a while in the past and I think it was because she was carrying too much food from the market.

She would sometimes take home two watermelons and a lot of vegetables so I would have to keep reminding her not to carry so many things. Finally, she gave up trying to take so much home at once. Now a lot of older people use a little cart when they go shopping.

I think those are great but my mother doesn’t want to use those. She said that they are hard to carry when going up the stairs. I gave up trying to convince her about it in the end, oh well.

[15:48] [Turn left on Xiùshān Lù [ 秀 山 22

Xujiahui 路 ]] If you continue down this road is Pānyú Lù [ 番 禺 路 ]. This is where the ‘New Oriental’ School is located. Right next to it is the ‘Jiāotōng University’ [ 交 通 大 学 ] graduate school dorms . I have been there once and saw it was very clean inside. I remember ‘Jiāotōng University’ had very bad lunch boxes.

When I used to study at the ‘New Oriental’ School I had a full day of classes so I had to go and buy my own lunch. On the first day, I did not know where to go eat so I bought something from the ‘Jiāotōng University’ canteen.

One lunch box cost me 10 yuan. That was considered very expensive at the time and on top of that it tasted horrible. They also had a very small selection. Perhaps all the school’s lunch boxes were like that. As time passed, I found more and more places to eat in the area. I even found places like ‘Xiǎo Lè Huì’ [ 小 乐 惠 ] 11 and would go in for a meal. When I did not feel like a formal meal, I would go to the supermarket next door for some bread and yogurt. I love to eat yogurt.

When I was young, I used to eat it a lot in the summer because it would cool me down. I found out recently that yogurt is actually better than milk for 23

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徐家汇 your health. I also used to drink milk instead of water straight out of the fridge. I don’t eat ice cream a lot, but I have to drink milk. It makes me feel good!

[17:31] If you walk out from here there

is a spa. There used to be a lot of buses parked here. Sometimes government workers and small business owners would come here for massages and such. I have been told that going to these places was considered a bad thing because they were probably using company or government resources for personal enjoyment.

Nowadays, we are used to these ideas.

[18:32] [Stop at Pānyú Lù Intersection.] I

would walk down this alleyway to go to the ‘Shanghai Movie Theatre’. I am very familiar with The Shanghai Movie Theatre. The second one I know well is the ‘Heng Shan Movie Theater’ [ 衡 山 电影院 ] 12. Both of them have matinee specials. I remember in the ‘Héngshān Movie Theater’, they only had two different theaters and one of them would always play old Hong Kong movies, such as movies with gun fights, etc. I was afraid to watch those movies 26

Xujiahui because my mother would tell me they were a bad influence on me. But now that I am older I am starting to love them. I love Maggie Cheung in her old movies, and I still remember the title song of one of her movies was Jackie Chan’s ‘Kiss Goodbye’. This song is very old now and I remember that I heard it first from this movie and not from her album. This was sometime around 1990. I have no idea why I remember it so vividly. Maybe it was because that was my first bloody Hong Kong movie with a gun fight. After I saw it, I was afraid to watch anything like that for a while. My favorite movie at the ‘Shanghai Movie Theatre’ was the animation ‘Lion King’. I have a little ‘sister’ and she watched it with me, she was only 7 or 8 then, and her mother told me afterwards that she was really scared watching it and even cried. I really love that movie, it is very amazing and I would recommend all kids to watch it. It was one of my first animation films I have seen in my life.

The classic Chinese Animation films ‘Húlu Wá’ 13 is no comparison. The animators of the ‘Lion King’ did a lot more delicate work.

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Footnotes

注脚

1) According to some locals the first 1) 有本地人说第一间肯德基是人民 KFC was opened in People’s Square.

2) Pronounced ‘Ah–Yee’. Literally ‘Auntie’ but generally a polite way to call older women.

3) A.k.a. ‘Gǎnghuì’ [ 港汇 ].

4) These malls also are in Xújiāhuì.

5) Shanghainese pastime where people would sit outside and enjoy the cool breezes. Usually in the early evening or when ever it was cool outside.

6) #187 Guǎngyuán Lù [ 广元路 ].

7) #319 Guǎngyuán Xi Lù [ 广元西路 ].

8) #315 Guǎngyuán Xi Lù.

9) #241 Lèshān Lù [ 乐山路 ].

10) #115 Lèshān Lù.

11) #667 Pānyú Lù.

12) #838 Héngshān Lù [ 衡山路 ].

13) ‘Húlu Wá’ is a popular Chinese cartoon featuring 7 brothers with special powers.

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广场上的。 2) 广元路 187 号。 3) 广元西路 319 号。 4) 广元西路 315 号。 5) 乐山路 241 号。 6) 乐山路 115 号。 7) 番禺路 667 号。 8) 衡山路 838 号。

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