DISCOVER PORTLAND Exploring HISTORY
Exploring PORTLAND’S
PAST
T5 HISTORIC MUSEUMS TO VISIT IN PORTLAND
BY RICHARD SHAW
he past and the present co-exist in Portland. Historical attractions include the Maine Narrow Gauge Railroad, Portland Museum of Art, Maine Jewish Museum, and the Children’s Museum and Theatre of Maine. There is even an International Cryptozoology Museum, and an Umbrella Cover Museum, just a ferry ride away on Peaks Island. Here are five more places to explore. Check websites for hours and admission fees.
WADSWORTH-LONGFELLOW HOUSE
Henry Wadsworth Longfellow spent his youth and early adulthood in this home, one of New England's most visited museums. Built in 1785-1786 for Gen. Peleg Wadsworth and Elizabeth Bartlett, the poet's maternal grandparents, it is the oldest brick structure on the Portland peninsula and a survivor of downtown urban development. The museum at 489 Congress St. hosts seasonal activities. Plus, the Maine Historical Society next door, which owns the property, is featuring Notorious: Maine Crime in the Public Eye, an exhibit chronicling such cases as Bangor’s 1937 Brady Gang shootout, as well as a colorful display exploring the state’s 19th century quilting traditions.
VICTORIA MANSION
Lavish living in 19th century America is represented in this impressive 1860 Italianate brownstone mansion, a public museum since 1941. Visitors to the 109 Danforth St. landmark are often astonished by its opulent furnishings and elaborate design, including a painted plaster ceiling and carpeted staircase straight out of “Gone With the Wind.”
The Morse-Libby House was built for hotelier Ruggles Sylvester Morse, and designed by the New Haven architect Henry Austin. Verandas and ornate windows are some of its many features. Named for Queen Victoria after opening to the public, the mansion was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1971. Events are held throughout the year.
ABYSSINIAN MEETING HOUSE
One of the highlights on Portland's two-mile Freedom Trail is this former 1828 house of worship located at 73 Newbury St. Currently undergoing a major renovation to preserve the building's original character, visitors are encouraged to explore the nation’s third oldest standing African American meeting house and learn about its place in history.
Before falling into disrepair in the 20th century, the building served as a place of worship and activism for Portland’s Black community, which included former enslaved people and Underground Railroad movement leaders. An estimated $1 million in additional funding is needed to restore the landmark’s facade and other features.
(Right) WadsworthLongfellow House, built 1785-1786. COURTESY OF JOHN RIPLEY
(Below) Victoria Mansion’s green bedroom. COURTESY OF VICTORIA MANSION
(Bottom right) Abyssinian Meeting House, established 1828. COURTESY OF JOHN RIPLEY
Victoria Mansion.
PHOTO BY ANDREW DAVIS, COURTESY OF VICTORIA MANSION
The Portland
COURTESY OF BANGOR
PUBLIC LIBRARY & JOHN RIPLEY
(Left) Tate House Museum, built in 1755.
COURTESY OF TATE
HOUSE MUSEUM
PORTLAND OBSERVATORY
Munjoy Hill wouldn’t be the same without this unique 86-foot wooden landmark at 138 Congress St. Built in 1807 by retired ship captain Lemuel Moody, it is the nation’s last remaining maritime signal tower. Visitors on self-guided and docent-led tours, climbing the octagonal structure’s 104 steps, enjoy a 360-degree view of Casco Bay.
Now owned by the city of Portland and operated by the nonprofit Greater Portland Landmarks, the observatory has displays explaining how, in earlier times, a telescope and signal flags established communication between ship and shore before a vessel could reach the city’s docks. In 2006, the tower was designated a National Historic Landmark.
TATE HOUSE MUSEUM
Set apart from its modern neighbors at 1267 Westbrook St. is this quiet treasure, dating to 1755. It was built for British native George Tate, who came to Portland with his wife, Mary, to oversee the harvest of white pines used as ship masts for the Royal Navy. Tours point out period house furnishings and herb gardens.
Museum director Holly Hurd highlights the museum’s Colonial nature that is unique in all of Greater Portland. Newer interpretations are more inclusive of the era's enslaved and indigenous people. Laborers such as Bet, most likely a slave, are mentioned to tourists and school groups who appreciate 18th century Maine life told in a realistic manner.
(Above)
Observatory from an 1881 booklet lithograph and current day.
THE OLD PORT:
A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE OLD PORT EXCHANGE
BY RICHARD SHAW
Fifty years after new economic life was breathed into a decaying part of Portland's downtown, the Old Port Exchange shows no signs of slowing down. The district, bounded by Exchange, Commercial, Fore, and Congress streets, was once a warren of warehouses and wharves. Now it is a walkable destination, including restaurants, shops, and condos.
Real estate developers sparked the renaissance in the 1970s, when they purchased derelict properties and turned them into offices, apartments, and retail space. Restaurants such as The Hollow Reed on Fore Street sprang up, while the Old Port Association was formed to halt demolition and improve street aesthetics.
Anchoring the redevelopment was the opening of the Cumberland County Civic Center, now the Cross Insurance Arena, at the top of the Old Port, in 1977. In 2006, work began on the Ocean Gateway project, a major cruise ship terminal. Nine years later, the former Press Herald newspaper building at the top of Exchange Street was converted into the Press Hotel. And earlier this year, plans were announced for the 380-foot-tall, 30-story Old Port Square project at 45 Union St. It would be Maine's tallest structure.
In the end, the Old Port is all about history. Native son Barry Daniels shares memories dating to the 1950s, when his parents worked for the Globe Laundry at 26 Temple St. He is the State Street Traditional Jazz Band's clarinet player, performing Sundays in the Old Port.
Transplants such as John Ripley, of South Portland, enjoy crossing the Casco Bay Bridge to shop and dine at the Old Port, which he said, “... is a balance between the past and the future. Imagine technology companies near old bars and fish mongers.”
Local artists, such as the late Paul Black, captured the area’s architecture, including its cobbled streets and the U.S. Custom House at 312 Fore St., in changing seasons. And the yearly Old Port Festival, which ended in 2019, drew families and tourists for a day of parades, games, and food. For many, the festival helped put the Old Port on the map.
Then & Now
(Left) An image from an 1881 booklet lithograph showing Middle Street. COURTESY OF THE BANGOR PUBLIC LIBRARY
(Above) Current day Wharf Street still features cobblestones. COURTESY OF BARRY DANIELS
(Above) The U.S. Custom House and Steamboat Wharf are featured on a 1915 postcard. COURTESY OF THE BANGOR PUBLIC LIBRARY
(Left) The U.S. Custom House as it stands today. COURTESY OF BARRY DANIELS
(Above) Custom House Wharf steamboats are shown in an image from an 1881 booklet lithograph.
COURTESY OF THE BANGOR PUBLIC LIBRARY
(Below) The present day Casco Bay Lines ferry system provides year-round service from Portland to the islands of Casco Bay. COURTESY OF BARRY DANIELS
(Left) An 1881 booklet lithograph shows Middle Street before the Great Fire of 1866.
COURTESY OF THE BANGOR PUBLIC LIBRARY
(Below) Shops and restaurants still line the streets of the Old Port, including Exchange Street shown here.
COURTESY OF BARRY DANIELS
Eat, Drink & BE MERRY
YOUR PORTLAND FOOD JOURNEY BEGINS AT THESE CITY FAVORITES
BY KATIE SMITH
Portland, the little Maine city on a peninsula that extends into Casco Bay, may be best known for its briny air, cobblestone sidewalks, and — the food. We can’t forget the food. Who wouldn’t enjoy sitting on a deck and taking in the picturesque waterfront while munching away on everything from woodfired pizza to raw oysters?
Portland has more restaurants per capita than most major cities and has won its fair share of James Beard awards. And the city has more to offer than just lobster rolls — even if people come in droves to consume one.
In Portland, you can satisfy your sweet tooth with donuts made from potatoes, taste handmade pasta, and enjoy a pint from a neighborhood brewery. Tourists and locals agree Portland’s dining scene is a mouth-watering experience that everyone must try at least once in their life. So, if you’re there for a weekend, or if Portland is home, here’s a list of don’t-miss eats.
THE HOLY DONUT
177 COMMERCIAL ST. AND 194 PARK AVE., PORTLAND
(ADDITIONAL LOCATIONS IN BRUNSWICK, SCARBOROUGH, AND ARUNDEL)
Never had a donut made with potato? It’s a Maine staple, and this place has turned the spuds of Maine into an icon. Made with real Maine potatoes, their donuts are deliciously sweet and satisfying — think somewhere between yeast and cake donuts. And the options are endless: maple bacon, dark chocolate sea salt, blueberry lemon. They also have seasonal flavors and gluten-free options.
FORE STREET
288 FORE ST., PORTLAND
If watching the cooks in the kitchen with a wood-fire scent is your jam, you’ll love Fore Street. Its farm-to-table vibe is rustic yet elevated. The restaurant’s focus is simple, offering seasonal ingredients prepared in an open kitchen with a wood-fire oven and grill. It’s a great place to visit for a special occasion or a regular Saturday night. You see an array of outfits from dress shirts to flannels, so come as you are and enjoy!
BECKY’S DINER
390 COMMERCIAL ST., PORTLAND
Becky’s offers the old-school taste of Portland. Located on the waterfront, you can find families and fishermen craving comfort food and coastal classics like blueberry pancakes, lobster Benedict, and of course there’s always bottomless coffee. Lunch and dinner fare includes broiled seafood dinners, lobster rolls, and meatloaf and gravy. Becky’s has a classic diner feel, with booths, handwritten specials, and friendly servers.
BODA
671 CONGRESS ST., PORTLAND
If you’re looking for an edgy place that serves up Thai street food with a modern twist, Boda is it. It’s intimate, luxe, and low-key romantic with exposed brick and glowy lanterns. Boda has offerings like Quail eggs wrapped in bacon, some of the best pad thai you’ll ever have, and sticky rice with mango. It’s a great place to sit solo at the bar or bring a date.
SCALES
68 COMMERCIAL ST., PORTLAND
If you’re looking for waterfront dining that’s upscale yet relaxed, try Scales. Think classic New England seafood with lots of class. Not only is the food amazing — oysters on the half shell, butter-poached lobster, seared scallops, and don’t forget their butterscotch pudding, the tall windows will make you want to sit and stare (and eat) for days. The vibe is airy, cozy, and elevated all at once.
DUCKFAT
43 MIDDLE ST., PORTLAND
(OR FIND DUCKFAT FRITES SHACK AT 43 WASHINGTON AVE.)
In a little nook of the Old Port, Duck Fat is the place to go for fries. Cooked in duck fat, the fries are like no other. Don’t forget to try all the dipping sauces. Duck fat also offers the best milkshakes you’ll ever have, as well as seasonal soups and salads. There’s something for everyone in this cozy restaurant, and once you visit, you’ll want to keep coming back.
IVENTURE TO JUST A FEW OF PORTLAND'S MANY BREWERIES AND DISTILLERIES
BY JOANNA O’LEARY
t’s no secret Portland is one of the best food destinations in America, but here’s our plug for it also being a great place to indulge in a liquid lunch. We’re referring specifically to the city’s breweries and distilleries, many of which offer guided tastings, tours, specials, and tasty treats to soak up the booze. Ready to wet your whistle? Here are just a few stops all clustered within walking distance of each other in Portland’s hip East Bayside neighborhood to add to your itinerary.
THREE OF STRONG SPIRITS
35B DIAMOND ST., PORTLAND
Using water from Sebago Lake (plus yeast, molasses, and organic cane syrup, natch), Three of Strong Spirits produces distinctive aged rums like their “Brightwater” and “Merrymeeting” spiced varietals. The distillery is particularly popular among the canine-and-companion set, not only because the outdoor patio is dog-friendly but also given Three of Strong is possibly the only tasting room in the city to offer mocktails specially designed for your favorite mongrel. Located in a former warehouse in East Bayside, Three of Strong is adjacent to other local brewers and must-see culinary spots, making it convenient for those looking to hit multiple tours and/or happy hours in one afternoon.
RISING TIDE BREWING COMPANY
103 FOX ST., PORTLAND
Case in point, just a hop, skip, and jump away you’ll find Rising Tide Brewing Company, founded by business (and life) partners Heather and Nathan Sanborn. A warning to the indecisive: choosing from among their extensive selection of year-round, seasonal, and limited-release beers is a formidable, albeit pleasurable, task. Equally delightful is the opportunity to complement your tasting selection with some of their elevated comfort food (I recommend the calamari and the fried cod sandwich). Should you and the love of your life be as smitten with Rising Tide as you are with each other, the Brewery is also available to host weddings in addition to other gatherings (birthday parties, corporate events, family dinners).
BELLEFLOWER BREWING
66 COVE ST., PORTLAND
Amateur beer-makers who dream of opening their own shop may find inspiration at Belleflower Brewing. Co-owners Zach Page and Nick Bonadies began as homebrewers, then joined forces to assist in the launch of Trillium Brewing Company, before eventually breaking off to establish their own venture in the form of Belleflower. Their lively taproom in combination with a robust schedule of rotating food trucks and activities (pottery! yoga! Kölsch service!) has enabled the brewery to become one of the go-to socialization spots for a diverse crowd of beer enthusiasts.
2025-26 SEASON FALL HIGHLIGHTS MERRILL AUDITORIUM
TCHAIKOVSKY & BRAHMS with RANDALL GOOSBY
FOR ME, PERSONALLY, MUSIC HAS BEEN A WAY TO INSPIRE OTHERS. —Randall Goosby
ECKART PREU MUSIC DIRECTOR
Tchaikovsky Violin Concerto in D Major RANDALL GOOSBY VIOLIN
Rising star Randall Goosby helps kick off the new century of the PSO, appearing in the opening concert of our 101st season. Acclaimed for his “exquisite tone and sheer virtuosity” (The New York Times), Goosby joins the PSO to perform Tchaikovsky’s only violin concerto— athletic and dramatic, full of passion, irresistible lyricism, and impressive turns.
SATURDAY, OCT 18 SUNDAY, OCT 19
SPOOKY SYMPHONY
MORIHIKO NAKAHARA GUEST CONDUCTOR
Some music is hauntingly beautiful… and some is just plain spooky!
From the eerie and unsettling to the downright bone chilling, experience a concert filled with ghostly melodies, eerie soundscapes, and spinetingling surprises. From playful chills to magical thrills, it’s the perfect way to celebrate the spookiest time of year with friends and family!
NAKAHARA
GOOSBY
GUIDING Lights
VISIT A LOCAL LIGHTHOUSE
STORY BY WANDA CURTIS • PHOTOS COURTESY OF BOB TRAPANI
As you navigate through all of the exciting places to visit in greater Portland, consider a trip to one of the many historic lighthouses in the area. Maine lighthouses have guided ships through our rocky, rugged coastline for centuries. There are more than 60 lighthouses in Maine, and 57 are still active. Some lighthouses can be visited individually or by signing up for a tour, while others can only be viewed and photographed from a distance. Here’s a guide to just a few of greater Portland’s most iconic and photogenic lighthouses.
PORTLAND HEAD LIGHT
Portland Head Light in Cape Elizabeth is the oldest and most well-known Maine lighthouse. It was built in 1790 during George Washington’s presidency. A second-order Fresnel lens was lit for the first time on Jan. 10, 1791. And the lighthouse is still active today.
The now automated light beams extend 24 miles, shining over the Casco Bay area. Portland Head Light can be viewed up close from the 90-acre Fort Williams Park adjoining the lighthouse. The park is open from sunrise until sunset. The lighthouse tower is open to the public only once a year on Maine Open Lighthouse Day, which this year is Sept. 13. Approximately 300 tickets will be made available to climb the tower on that day. Visitors to the tower must be able to climb 85-plus steps unassisted. The lighthouse keeper’s quarters, which were converted into a museum and a gift shop, are open to all. The museum contains lighthouse lenses and historic displays. In addition, there are picnic and recreation areas within the park.
Portland Head Light also offers views of four more lighthouse towers in the area. To the north you can see Spring Point Ledge Lighthouse; straight out ahead in the
bay is Ram Island Ledge Light; further out on a clear day you can spot Halfway Rock Light Station; and to the south is Cape Elizabeth Light.
RAM ISLAND LEDGE LIGHT
Ram Island Ledge Light is another active lighthouse located within a short distance of Portland. Just across the bay from Portland Head Light, it’s the most remote of all the lighthouses near Portland. It can only be viewed from a distance on land; to get closer you’ll need a boat. Ram Island itself is only a quarter mile long, surrounded by “treacherous and often submerged rocks that line the northern side of the harbor,” according to Jim Hudspith’s “A Complete Guide to Island Ledge Light” article on mainelighthousemuseum.com. According to the article, the 400-foot ship California became grounded on ledge in 1900, which prompted Congress to consider taking action. However, it wasn’t until after a British schooner ran aground on a reef in 1902 and two fishing vessels met a similar fate, that any work began. A light was finally unveiled in April 1905.
CAPE ELIZABETH LIGHTHOUSE
(AKA TWO LIGHTS)
Located at the south entrance of Portland Harbor, Cape Elizabeth Light was first constructed in 1828 as a pair of lighthouses, giving it the moniker Two Lights. Those towers were replaced with two cast-iron towers in 1874. The western tower was discontinued in 1924, and today it is privately owned. The eastern tower remains in service and is now automated, however neither the tower nor the grounds are open to the public. The area is now home to Two Lights State Park, where visitors can enjoy views of the ocean, picnic tables, shoreline trails, and spot the lighthouse from the end of Two Lights Road.
SPRING POINT LEDGE
Spring Point Ledge Lighthouse is located on the breakwater at Southern Maine Community College in South Portland. It was built in 1897 to light the way for mariners traveling in Portland Harbor and warn them of a dangerous ledge, which was the site of several collisions before the lighthouse was built. Unlike most Maine lighthouses, Spring Point Ledge Light is open for the public to tour inside from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and every other Saturday during the summer. There is an admission fee. For more information, email springpointledge@gmail.com.
PORTLAND BREAKWATER LIGHT (AKA BUG LIGHT)
The Bug Light Park Lighthouse is a small but active lighthouse, sitting on top of the Portland Breakwater in Bug Light Park in South Portland. It’s the eastern end of the Greenbelt Walkway, and located across the bay from downtown Portland. Built in 1875, the lighthouse helped vessels navigate Portland Harbor. The Greek Revival design of the 26-foot-tall tower sets it apart from other lighthouses, in addition to its small size.
Visitors can walk up to the lighthouse, but can only view the inside on Maine Open Lighthouse Day. The lighthouse will be open from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Sept. 13, 2025.
For more information about Maine Open Lighthouse Day, visit lighthousefoundation.org. You’ll find a list of participating lighthouses around the state, along with hours and details.