The Jeweller - Autumn 2020 // National Association of Jewellers

The mark of industry inspiration & information

Autumn 2020

ÂŁ7.50

Autumn Preview New collections under the spotlight

Equality & Diversity Ensuring a better business with our step-by-step guide

Digital Marketplaces We review this growing sector of showcase solutions

The National Association of Jewellers

THE TH MARCH CLUB

Be Security Wise WITH TH MARCH & THE NAJ

Helping to protect you, your business and your employees An important TH March and NAJ initiative aiming to raise awareness, increase knowledge and improve security throughout the UK Jewellery trade.

Contact TH March or the NAJ to find out more! www.thmarch.co.uk/NAJ

www.naj.co.uk/securitywise

Opinion

Autumn 2020

from The Editor manufacturers and brands and of course we also salute those events – like The Jewellery Cut Live (p46) and VOICE at Vicenzaoro (p16) – that have pulled out all the stops to deliver In Real Life shows.

The same goes for the online trade events that have been keeping things ticking over during and post-Covid. Following a successful summer digital event, British Craft Trade Fair repeated the exercise this month; SHINE at Goldsmiths’ centre (p40) and Jewellery Watch & Fashion at Autumn Fair: Home (p59) were online during September and the highly prestigious Goldsmiths’ Fair promises to be as elegantly luxe as ever, with buyers from across the world being able to browse from their sofas (p60).

I

’m writing this at the beginning of September and while I always live in hope of an Indian summer I’m not that optimistic – it really does feel like autumn. Leaves are turning and there’s a back-to-school feel in the air. Which actually I’m taking as a positive sign. Yes, we’d all dearly love to re-boot 2020, but since that manoeuvre is off the menu, we are left with no choice but to recalibrate the way in which we live and work. What happens next may be beyond our control, but we can future-proof our lives.

In terms of The Jeweller, that means “as you were folks”… or as close to it as possible. This Autumn issue of the magazine would usually be dedicated to previews of the major UK and international jewellery trade shows. However, just because all bar a couple have been cancelled or digitalised that’s no reason not to celebrate newness. Without IJL the Bright Young Gems initiative might have been mothballed this year, but we think the students’ efforts should be rewarded, so we highlight a few names to watch on page 38. Our Autumn Preview (p26) showcases collection launches by designers,

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“To those designers, manufacturers and brands who have kept the wheels turning and the creative juices flowing… we salute you.”

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Every cloud and all that. No-one wishes for a crisis, but it can create opportunities, and this one, for most of us, has presented a chance to re-think how we do things. Take digital marketplaces – they’ve been on the fringes of the industry for a while, with their enthusiasts as well as sceptics. Now, I believe, they are truly coming into their own and proving their worth. Not replacements for physical trade events and face-to-face meetings, but sitting alongside them for the benefit of all. On page 10 we look at a few variations on this theme. Also in this issue (and not before time!) we put fine jeweller Trevor Davis under the spotlight (p56) and we give the floor to a handful jewellery retailers who share their Covid stories (p42)… accepting the ‘new normal’ is what it’s all about. That, plus resilience and hope.

Belinda Morris, Editor

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“we not only aim to raise awareness of peridot – ‘the gem of the sun’ – but we also want to shine a spotlight on the avant-garde.”

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56

“I’d like the industry to remove the barriers and it has to start at the top so that there is fairness for everyone...”

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Inside this Issue Autumn 2020

NEWS

EVENTS & SHOWS

08 NAJ News

16 VicenzaOro VOICE

Introducing the NAJ Yearbook

23 Education Awards

Celebrating JET achievements

42 Retail Update

Post-Covid progress reports

64 Book Reviews

Shaun Leane, Betty Cooke & Simply Brilliant

PROFILE

First trade show since lockdown

40 SHINE

New talent at Goldsmiths’ Centre

46 Jewellery Cut Live

The show IS going on!

59 Autumn Fair

Jewellery at the digital show

60 Goldsmiths’ Fair

Celebrating our industry’s finest

25 Member Profile

Introducing BCTF winner Eleni Koumara

56 NAJ Voices

Belinda Morris talks to jeweller Trevor Davis

66 The Last Word…

… goes to Prime Warden Richard Fox

TRENDS

26 Autumn Preview

Our selection from new collections

38 Bright Young Gems

Our pick of emerging design talent

50 Watch News

Time is not passing by for some

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The National Association of Jewellers The National Association of Jewellers 10 Vyse Street Birmingham B18 6LT 0121 237 1110 www.naj.co.uk

Editor: Belinda Morris editor@naj.co.uk

Advertising sales: garry.lane@naj.co.uk 07741 554 011

BUSINESS ADVICE

10 Digital Marketplaces

On-line showcase solutions

14 Member Benefits

Buy more, more often

20 Better Business

JET Foundations of Appraisal Practice

24 JET Business Network

Website security tips

OPINION

03 From the Editor

Accepting the new normal?

07 The Chairman’s Foreword

Front cover image: Green Rocks www.greenrocksdiamonds.com 0203 9030969 maiko@greenrocksdiamonds.com

Seven questions to ask‌

45 SecurityWise

Contributory writers: Michael Donaldson, Ben Massey, Neil McFarlane

IRV progress report. Check.

22 Education

Printed by: HPA Print Ltd www.hpaprint.co.uk 07525 011 589

Implementing an Equality & Diversity Policy

18 Steering Group

Designed & produced by: Senior Internet www.senior.co.uk 0115 838 9555

Working together has never been more important

The NAJ is responsible for producing The Jeweller and although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAJ does not accept liability, loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from opinions expressed by contributors.

Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisors. The NAJ accepts no responsibility for the content of any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries. The magazine is printed using vegetable based inks on FSC certified paper produced from sustainable sources

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Opinion

Autumn 2020

Chair’s foreword making sure the business survives, while maintaining sight of commercial sensitivity.

As a UK manufacturer, opportunities have arrived in that our workshop never fully closed through lockdown, due to the demand for British-made jewellery – the fact is that for some, other options weren’t on the table. It’s a good time to be on the NAJ’s Created in the UK ‘map’… if you’re not on it already.

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nd then it was Autumn. In the year that is seeing the whole of society facing some of the most consequential issues in modern times, the jewellery and watch trade has been forced to adjust and in many areas, is continuing to adjust. In this Autumn issue of The Jeweller, just how jewellers are adjusting is plain to see – from industry and Association news, to the features on retailers, online events and an insightful Autumn Preview your editor, Belinda, has crafted.

At the start of the COVID-19 pandemic we agreed as the NAJ National Committee that we needed to demonstrate our relevance to the sector. This is the time to stand up and be counted; going above and beyond member expectations while also taking steps to protect the future of the Association. My volunteer colleagues have put in an inordinate This is the time amount of their time – on top of the to stand up and work they do for their businesses – to be counted; best support the staff team through this going above and period. With COVID guidance, courses, beyond member helplines, webinars, communications, support networks, lobbying and many expectations other actions, the staff team as a while also taking collective has certainly pushed the NAJ steps to protect to the heart of the industry, and I want the future of the to recognise the volunteer and staff Association. teams with this, my first foreword in The Jeweller. Thank you all.

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The last five or so months, I hope, have demonstrated to you that we’re here for you, no matter what. As a director myself I’ve experienced many of the same challenging issues you may well have gone through. From social distancing risk assessments and associated policies, to furlough, funding and latterly redundancies, it’s not been nice, but these, often vital, business decisions are about

At the Association’s (very first) digital AGM, we announced our ‘essential strategy’, narrowing our focus to make sure we’re best placed to support the industry to be ‘fit for the future’. Firmly on our radar are power networks, being an active voice, digital platforms and making sure both education and membership are highly relevant for the trade. We are also committed to providing insights, such as the now published Whitepaper on Buying Sentiments, and work continues in this area to start it has never been to influence consumer behaviour. What was not announced at the AGM, but more important continues to be at the forefront of our for the trade to minds, is Equality and Diversity, and I unite and work am delighted that since we identified together. We actions, progress is well underway.

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need to be able to listen to our colleagues and networks, we need to be flexible and we need to be supportive.

Now I am in this Chair position until June 2021, and I’m determined to make sure whoever succeeds me at that point, will be able to put their best foot forward to move us from ‘essential strategy’ – although COVID-19 will of course have something to say about that. However, what I said when I was elected Chair back in June, still stands today and you’re going to hear this a lot from me… it has never been more important for the trade to unite and work together. We need to be able to listen to our colleagues and networks, we need to be flexible and we need to be supportive.

All the best,

Gary Wroe NAJ Chair

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NAJ News

The Jeweller

Please excuse us if we seem a little overexcited, but we happen to be very proud of the Association’s very first Yearbook. If you enjoy The Jeweller you’re going to love this!

Ta-dah! Introducing the NAJ 2020 I Yearbook!

t was always going to be an ambitious project – dreamt up in the distant, carefree spring of 2019 – but we couldn’t have known just how much of a challenge the Yearbook would prove to be as we began working on it early this year. It’s truly been a labour of love… with some blood, sweat and tears thrown in for good measure! And we think it looks great!

We hope you think so too. Yet another invaluable Member Benefit, the Yearbook is not only a celebration of our membership and the wider industry – seen through the eyes of the Association – but also a reminder of the NAJ’s overarching raison d’être: to help you build a better business.

Literally. Better Business features cover everything from apprenticeships to wellbeing; Member Profiles highlight every sector of the trade; we delve into Bespoke; look ahead to Future Trends and then, because we really want to be helpful, we’ve thrown in a comprehensive Supplier Directory.

Have we whetted your appetite?

Visit naj.co.uk/yearbook or scan this code using your mobile phone’s camera:

Discover the heart & soul of our NEW

EMBRACE COLLECTION

Capture the spend of your customers for the moment they say ‘I do’ with a broad selection of wedding day jewellery from Hockley Mint. The new Embrace collection includes more than 120 coordinating pieces, including engagement rings, wedding bands, pendants and earrings with an entwined loop setting for diamonds or precious gemstones. Create your own collection of essential pieces to target bridesmaids, the bridal party and the anniversary market, with your choice of precious metals, settings and stone qualities.

Designed & Made in Britain

Contact the team to arrange a visit from your local representative to view the collection.

+44 (0)121 242 0042 – sales@hockleymint.co.uk

www.hockleymint.co.uk

H ONEST B RIT ISH CRA FTSMANS HI P

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News

The Jeweller

Digital Marketplaces While a few show organisers are delivering virtual fairs to would-be exhibitors and buyers, a growing number of more permanent on-line showcase solutions are on offer. Belinda Morris reports.

Sonic @ Pursuit Redefining the working relationship between retailers and suppliers, this comprehensive solution offers stock control, product repair management, Chip & Pin, website functionality, advertising opportunities and data warehousing… as well as a dedicated Supplier Link and a Marketplace platform and app for B2B stock trading.

Pursuit MD, Mike Burns, says: “Our goal is to help suppliers and retailers work more closely together. By collaborating, both parties can benefit from increased sales, insights into top performing products and streamlined stock control and reordering processes.”

Independent retailers can also use Sonic to bridge their physical and online platforms, allowing for click and collect, order fulfillment, dispatch direct from suppliers and real-time stock updates no matter where the customer is shopping.

Retailer and supplier response has been positive – the latter keen to learn how it will blend into their business.

“It’s all change,” adds Burns. “Having a strong digital presence, along with bricks & mortar and supplier support, will be more important than ever… but needs to be backed up.

Consumers want to see great images, detailed product descriptions and if it’s in stock. They want the choice of buying or reserving, then collecting instore or delivered.

The supplier wants to know if an appro

piece has sold, or how well the sell-through is of their just-launched range.”

“It’s fine having great company history or brand, but your backend systems need to be up to the task of today’s business world,” he says. “I know investing in that new world is expensive and some may question that expense at a time like now. That’s one of the reasons we’ve launched Sonic."

“Parts of Sonic are free to the retailer, reducing investment and offering a fully linked-in website for a set monthly fee. If you link up with your supplier they can become a free extension to your business, offering accurate data on what’s selling and what to buy. We’re asked: “what’s the catch – nothing's for free?” My answer: “how many free apps do you have on your phone?” The way we all do business has changed.

The Sonic B2B Marketplace gives retailers the chance to trade excess or unsold stock among themselves and post requests for specific items they may not stock.

The Sonic B2B Marketplace will also be accessible via an app.

For more information, visit: pursuitsonic.com

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s International Jewellery London (IJL) announces the cancellation of its September 2021 show, physical trade fairs appear to be on increasingly shaky ground. They’re unlikely to be gone for good – we still want in-real-life, face-to-face interaction and the chance to handle the goods – but technology is offering viable alternatives. Digital marketplaces provide one-stop shops that were proving to be the way forward pre-Covid, and are certainly going to increase in strength and numbers post-pandemic. We highlight a few variations on the theme… new as well as established.

Clarity & Success – Stock Sharing Online ‘marketplaces’ where retailers can buy or sell unwanted stock or ask for an item that another retailer may hold, isn’t a new idea. Clarity & Success introduced the concept several years ago with its Stock Sharing platform – part of its Advantage Club.

The platform allows retailers to satisfy customer requirements without having to stock a particular product or brand, alongside the statistics insights that the Advantage Club also provides.

Always useful, this facility comes into its own today – businesses can allow other retailers to purchase items from them and not limit themselves to retail-only sales.

Being able to identify other businesses with items they require – and offer items in return – can be invaluable. What may be dead stock to one retailer is gold to another.

For example, retailers may take a request from a customer in-store and type the reference number of the item into the Stock Sharing software. This identifies, in order of stock quantity, all other retailers on the platform with the required piece in stock.

The software then generates an e-mail to the holding business and an offline payment transaction between the two retailers follows, with the system creating and retaining a delivery note and/or invoice to the recipient retailer and the goods sent. The process is basically the same for redundant stock, where a retailer can list items for other retailers to purchase.

Result? Customer retention for retailers and a way to ensure sales of existing stock, improving cash flow.

For more information, email: uk.sales@clarity-success.com

News

Autumn 2020

Diamnet The diamond trading platform gives bricks and mortar retailers access to 200,000+ diamonds from multiple dealers and cutters around the globe… with one account. Many of the diamonds on its listing are sourced from the UK and can be called upon when needed to show a customer before purchase.

Diamnet can also have diamonds made up and delivered as a fully finished ring from UK mount manufacturers, including Hockley Mint, River Mounts and Chalfen of London.

“Over lockdown we signed a number of new jewellers to the white label service

The Jewellery App “The trade is still a long way off from being reliant on e-commerce,” says Daren Daniels, who conceived The Jewellery App as a B2B platform some five years ago. “We were probably a little too early. Now what’s more important is ROBO – research online,

- designed to help independent retail jewellers compete with online giants and capture online bridal customers,” says MD Howard Levine. “Retailers are really looking at their online presence (as they should be) and most are coming to the conclusion that they must step up.”

Diamnet has started work on version two of its software, with the ability to actually make sales online greatly improved. “The design is more immediate and the UI much more user friendly, with every element having been redesigned with SEO in mind,” says Levine. “This is a ground-up revamp and the most significant change since we launched three years ago.”

buy off-line.” Today he describes TJA as a ‘self-service platform’ but his aim has never changed: to work with the trade for the good of the trade… as a whole.

TJA-Connect is a sophisticated business directory, which, this Autumn, is being extended to also be a ‘virtual trade show’.

Since then, Diamnet has developed considerably. The mined diamond list is evergrowing, offering more choice for retailers. In turn, retailer sign-ups are increasing and a new salesman has joined the team. This year Diamnet teamed up with Swarovski to create a substantial UK stock of laboratory grown diamonds, allowing retailers to benefit from, what has to be, the fastest growing sector in the jewellery trade. The Laboratory Grown diamond list sits alongside the Natural Mined diamond list, stating which diamonds are available for approval upon request. “The Swarovski connection is starting to show dividends – more retailers are asking about lab-grown and the sales are following suit,” says Levine.

“We now work with the NAJ’s Institute of Registered Valuers. As the list is ‘live’ with stones on sale, the prices could not be more accurate – perfect for a valuer. It's a free service for the trade, but we’re delighted to help our industry to be more accurate and transparent.”

For more information, visit: diamnet.co.uk

When exhibitors and visitors sign-up they will be able to form networks, creating groups and forums which can be open or private. When the show closes, those connections are permanent.

The online, two-day event is designed like a physical show, with aisles and ‘stands’ on the left and right of the screen. Exhibitors will be ordered in sectors: gold, diamonds etc. Click-throughs to supplier pages will offer the chance of look books, product lists, images, videos, live chats, messaging, contact details and a click through to the directory. While ‘live’ online for two days, the stands will remain up to view for a few weeks. It’s planned to run the show bimonthly.

TJA’s self-managing consumer site is now commission-free, connects to eBay and has Augmented Reality ability and IOS and Android apps. The free website and online business package gets a supplier online at a fixed price.

For more information, visit: www.tjaconnect.com/trade-show-visit/

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News

The Jeweller

backbone is slow fashion, longevity, high quality and high craftmanship.

We want to promote diversity and sustainability, and help promote small and upcoming businesses,” she adds.

Retaissance Cathie Osborne’s idea for an ‘always-on’ global platform for buyers and brands to connect, communicate and trade, was born in the summer of 2019 – the pandemic and its consequences saw her hone the concept and hasten its completion.

Owner and founder of Hatton & Spencer packaging and a fashion agency, Osborne wanted to offer something acknowledging changes in consumer buying behaviour, and to help “build retail resilience”. The digital platform covers all non-food retail: fashion, accessories, jewellery, footwear, intimate apparel, gifts, beauty and home. “Our

Nivoda The Nivoda platform provides businesses with direct access to the world’s diamond supply, combining physical transportation infrastructure with technology to deliver time and cost savings. Businesses can buy from any number of global diamond suppliers, receive one consolidated shipment and be invoiced in their local currency – as easy as ‘add to cart and check out’.

Jewellers buying directly from manufacturers in India and Hong Kong are often faced with high shipping, payment and insurance fees. Nivoda has local teams on the ground consolidating shipments and payments. Through these efficiencies it can offer a transparent pricing structure cheaper than shipping directly from suppliers.

The online diamond marketplace reports over 350 diamond dealers and manufacturers signing up to its platform, adding an additional 125,000 certified diamonds to the website. David Sutton, Nivoda CEO says: “Suppliers appreciate that Nivoda is a truly independent platform and completely free of charge.

We also take care of fulfillment, handling

“Retaissance’s extensive infrastructure allows brands to filter their specific requirements – on product selection, price points and sustainability, and by attributes and procurement methods which are so important with the current changing wholesale model,” explains Osborne. “These attributes include sustainability, minimum order quantities, short order, in-stock only and trans-seasonal products. Our proprietary database of 27,000 contacts and 18,000 social media followers, means brands have access to buyers across all channels and in all categories.”

Each brand’s profile page showcases its range, with a dedicated page for each product, highlighting details… like a line sheet. Look books and lifestyle imagery can help to further connect with buyers.

Membership is engaged through the ‘Lounge’ which brings together interesting content, best practice, industry sector specialist blog posts, talks and newsletters.

the logistics and payment of orders, which reduces the burden on suppliers.”

Nivoda is also seeing a surge in buyer users. In an industry that was already cash constrained and underbanked, the pandemic is pushing jewellers towards a more ‘inventory light’ business model.

The fast delivery process allows jewellers to sell stock virtually without the need for pre-funding.

For more information, visit: nivoda.net

“Wholesale models are changing – buyers’ resources are stretched while targets and demands are high,” says Osborne. “This platform that will find and access tomorrow’s brands today, and future-proof market share by tracking brands as new markets develop, and extending lines with fresh independent brands; we’re hoping this makes their job more straightforward.

“We believe independent brands now have the best opportunity they’ve had in the last decade to gain market share and open new stockists in the UK, Europe and beyond. We’re removing the cost barriers associated with the traditional trade show model and abolishing the rigid framework of traditional buying, allowing buyers to try in low quantity, then return when sales take off in order to maximise revenue.” A jewellery brand, she says, could currently be selling to a retail jeweller and not targeting, or aware of, the opportunities within the gift, heritage, museum or department store markets.

Free to buyers, all NAJ supplier members will receive 33 per cent discount on membership to Retaissance, which, currently serves in the UK, Netherlands, Sweden, Germany, Italy, Spain, Portugal and France.

Later this year it will be opened up to the USA, Canada, Australia and New Zealand.

For more information, visit: retaissance.com

“I’m excited and inspired to learn more about how digital marketplaces are facilitating improved communication and new sales opportunities within the trade and in some cases applicable to the consumer. I’m sure their enhanced relevance, caused by the pandemic, will accelerate their long-term application.

However, I could never foresee a situation where they will completely replace our national and international trade fairs; like many I long for the safe opportunity to return to face-to-face interaction with industry colleagues and the joy and privilege of handling precious gems and jewellery.”

Helen Dimmick, independent jewellery consultant and co-director of Ainsworth Jewellers

Have you seen the NAJ Member Marketplace yet? visit: naj.co.uk/ MemberMarketplace

NAJ News

Autumn 2020

The NAJ’s newest approved member For all your auction requirements

Valuation and probate services for all purposes UK-wide pre-sale contactless estimates We specialise in: Antique and modern jewellery Watches Gemstones Silverware Coins, medals and militaria Works of art Whisky and wine Vintage toys Antiques, ephemera and collectables of all kinds

Qualified All members of our jewellery department are certified gemmologists and diamond graders

Preferential selling rates for NAJ members We are here to support the jewellery trade Record-breaking international sales More than 3,000 bidders from all over the world joined our latest online Fine Arts Sale

Established – Professional – Transparent The Winterton family name has been synonymous with auctioneering in Staffordshire since 1864

01543 251081 www.richardwinterton.co.uk ben@richardwinterton.co.uk

The Lichfield Auction Centre, Wood End Lane, Fradley Park WS13 8NF

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Business Advice

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The Jeweller

We take an upfront look at two new member benefits launched by the Association, in response to the impact that COVID-19 could have on the sector.

Make the Most of Your Member Benefits T

he first of these new online features is our Member Marketplace, which highlights manufacturers and suppliers. The second is Trendspot, the new consumer-facing blog which features you, our members, supporting new targeted PR activities to inspire and excite the public, to buy more jewellery… this Christmas.

Member Marketplace Save time, find trusted suppliers and benefit from exclusive incentives. That’s pretty much what Member Marketplace is about.

Being a single webpage the marketplace is simple to use, but as it’s constantly being updated with new members joining, and existing members posting and updating their incentives, regular visits make a lot of sense.

On the Member Marketplace you’ll find a list of NAJ members that offer you, as a fellow member, incentives ranging from discounts to extended terms and additional services. If you want to learn more about either the company, or the offer, it’s a case of clicking through to the member’s NAJ profile to learn more about their business, view collections or services, and then make contact.

Garry Lane, Partnership Manager said: “It’s not complicated on purpose; we want to make it simple for all supplier members to post incentives, and straightforward for other members to view the incentives in a clear format.

“All NAJ members conform to the Association’s core values of Honesty, Integrity and Professionalism, and if there’s ever an issue, the NAJ Complaint Mediation Service benefit kicks in, mediating between both parties. Being ‘as one’ is so important right now, so working together to better industry togetherness is crucial.”

Seven ways to get the most out of Member Marketplace: 1 Bookmark the webpage and use it as a reference point 2 Phone through enquiries; you never know what will come from a human conversation 3 Check to see if your existing supplier is an NAJ Member, if not, why not?! Is it a missed opportunity for them?

4 Whatever jewellery business you represent, update your NAJ profile regularly. This can be found on ‘find a jeweller’ – make sure any incentives are clear to understand 5 Understand the NAJ Complaint Mediation benefit so if things don’t work out, it’s not necessarily a lost cause 6 If you’re a supplier, submit incentives that are considered exclusive to be included in more promotions 7 Make sure incentives are relevant and appropriate; if it’s a service have case studies ready to showcase.

Member Marketplace is just one benefit out of more than 40 currently listed on the Member Benefits page, but like the TH March Club and JET Business Network for independent jewellery retailers, they have several ‘inclusive’ factors that can help save you money.

Member Marketplace categories include: Finished Jewellery, Silverware and Gifts, Gemstones, Findings & Materials and Tools, Equipment & Services.

Business Advice

Autumn 2020

The latest Member Marketplace incentives include:

Category

Member

Incentive for NAJ Members

Non-branded Jewellery – Diamond Jewellery

Diamnet

10% annual discount on Diamnet’s white label Online diamond showroom

Non-branded Jewellery – Fine Jewellery

Planet Gold Ltd

5% discount on all orders for NAJ Members

Non-branded Jewellery – Fine Jewellery

London DE

A trade discount of 30% on all of our stones and products.

Branded Jewellery

Lucy Quartermaine

10% on all initial orders. Plus full support and free staff jewellery to wear in store.

Finished Jewellery

Tools, Equipment & Services Business Services (eg.

Marketing).

Lucy Cripps Ltd

15% discount on website or print material copy (editing, writing or proofreading)

Tools & Equipment

Magpie Labels

15% discount on jewellery labelling and 10% on printing systems.

To view more member incentives, or make a submission onto the Member Marketplace, Visit: naj.co.uk/MemberMarketplace (Login required) Call/WhatsApp: 07741554011 Email: garry.lane@naj.co.uk

Buying more, more often…

This Autumn the NAJ has ramped up its consumer activities more than ever before, in an attempt to stimulate more Christmas jewellery purchases from the buying public. Why? Press and PR on behalf of the membership is a Member Benefit, and it’s crucial right now.

this Christmas. Many high street retailers are already increasing their Christmas campaigns in an attempt to bring buying forward, perhaps in an effort to negate ‘black Friday’. Our campaign will include regional media packs for members to issue to local press, and social media assets to share through appropriate channels. Again, all press is linking back to the Find a Jeweller tool (naj.co.uk/find).

There are two key activities that we’ve actioned: 1. NAJ Trendspot 2. 2020 Christmas campaign

NAJ Trendspot Edited by the editor of The Jeweller, Belinda Morris, we’re building consumer blogs on the NAJ website that inspire the browsing and buying public. Like all promotional elements there is a large connection to social media, and in this case Instagram and Pinterest.

It’s important that we feature all members’ jewellery, from fashion right up to the finer things in life, from designers and manufacturers to retailer jewellers, galleries, department stores… all linked back to the Find a Jeweller tool (naj.co.uk/find).

2020 Christmas Campaign The Association has protected funds to deliver a targeted press and PR advertising campaign to get more people to buy more jewellery

What do you need to do?: If you’re a member, share your collections, your news and even suggest topics for Belinda (your editor) and others to cover. Your jewellery could appear in the Trendspot, The Yearbook or The Jeweller, or even all three. One more nudge: keep your NAJ ‘Find a Jeweller’ profile up-to-date as this is where the Association is directing all consumer interest. If your profile isn’t updated regularly you could very well be missing out on business!

Update your profile now: Visit naj.co.uk/members-area Email editor@naj.co.uk

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Industry News

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The Jeweller

VOICE – first international jewellery fair since lockdown

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n a bid to push the international jewellery industry to start up again in the wake (some might say ‘in the midst’) of the Covid-19 pandemic, the Italian Exhibition Group (IEG) introduced a new omni-channel event – VOICE (12th14th September, 2020). An acronym for Vicenzaoro International Community Event, it comprised: a Summit (in real life and televised), a physical exhibition with 350 exhibitors and an online showroom.

Unlike the Vicenzaoro fairs, 95 per cent of participating exhibitors were from Italy, reflecting the travel restrictions elsewhere around the world. The same constraints – for prospective buyers – led to digitisation across the board; as well as daily Summit talks and discussions, the VOICE website

featured virtual ‘rooms’ where buyers and exhibitors could connect. Suppliers were equipped with laptops, high-spec zoom cameras, optimal lighting and sound equipment to show their jewellery, watches and packaging in the best possible detail.

The website also featured Inspiration Boards with product images posted by visitors.

Technology, Design and Trends for the meetings with producers, buyers, opinion leaders, associations, trend setters and press. An example: ‘How we see the Future’ outlined the opinions of the new generation of entrepreneurs on cross-contamination with the fashion world, digital innovation, inspiration from new tools. Another focussed on sustainability, a development area for the market that asked companies for greater attention and innovation, with two CIBJO seminars on the post-Covid repercussions on CSR and sustainability and the entrepreneurial initiative of five African artists and designers.

Carniello explained that the concept of a hybrid show such as VOICE had been considered by IEG before Covid-19 struck “but we’ve accelerated the plans”. He also said that some of the innovations will be used for the Vicenzaoro fair in January 2021.

For now, the digital aspect of VOICE meant that everyone could take part digitally – “open, without barriers”.

Keep up to date with all that’s taking place, digital or in person.

Visit naj.co.uk/whats-on

In a webinar hosted by Jewellery Outlook, Vicenzaoro’s event director Marco Carniello reassured participants that “all advanced safety techniques are in place” for the event (www.vicenzaoro.com/it/voice for details).

“We don’t expect huge numbers of visitors, but it will be a limited number of people in the pavilion at any time, with one meter social distancing and masks mandatory for all.” The Voice app for e-tickets helped to cut down queuing.

Unoaerre

Among the sector’s key players who chose to exhibit at VOICE, included Damiani, Mirco Visconti, Fope, Roberto Coin, Pesavento, Karizia, Fabergé, Riccardo Orsato, Alessi Domenico, Daveri Vicenza, Unoaerre, Giordini, Richline, Quadrifoglio, Amen, Aucella, Bruno Mazza, Coscia, De Simone, Mattia Mazza, Enzo Liverino, Annamaria Cammilli, Rosato, Pianegonda and Damaso Martinez. The watch segment saw Swiss producers Corum and Victorinox as well as the German brand Junghans.

Fope

Roberto Coin

The three-day Summit focussed on themes of Sustainability, Innovation and

Damiani

Pesavento

Autumn 2020

NAJ News

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17

18

Barry tutoring valuers on the Association's Practical Valuation Techniques (PVT) Tutorial course.

IRV chair Barry Sullivan takes stock of the year As I write it’s early September. I’m preparing notes for the next Valuations Steering Group meeting early next month… and do you know what – we’ve come a long way in just nine months.

I

’m recalling Goldsmiths’ Hall in January, where we experienced a number of MIRVs and FIRVs voice concern over the progress of the Institute under the National Association of Jewellers, which sadly resulted in some valuers not renewing their membership with the IRV. In my opinion, it’s never been more important to be together with the challenge to move forward with the power that the NAJ holds.

This is the case for the IRV: our voice has never been stronger.

Since that time, we’ve moved forward in a new – I’d argue ‘inclusive’ – direction, where I and other members of the restored Valuations Steering Group continue to push under three key themes: kudos, profile and saving money.

Kudos The IRV remains the largest and longest standing valuation authority in the UK and

Ireland for valuers to be a part of, is backed by the NAJ – encompassing the entire jewellery industry – and is recognised by many insurers and authorities. Via the NAJ, the IRV is also plugged into CIBJO, the international jewellery trade organisation responsible for driving international compatibility. Let’s get started.

With the MIRV and FIRV post nominals on display on business stationery, websites, trade press and, increasingly, on LinkedIn, these letters are recognised far and wide, and for those that are unaware it’s gratifying to be able to explain just what these letters mean; why and how we’re experts in our field.

Now with new Student and Associate non-practising membership categories in the IRV, those who are looking to progress as valuing professionals can sample the IRV kudos as part of the NAJ valuing community. What’s more, ‘Retired’ or non-

practising IRVs who still have an active interest can remain a part of the community, at a reduced subscription rate. Of course, we maintain the Honorary IRV status for rewarding exceptional support to the Institute.

The IRV has long been responsible for paving the way for entry routes into valuing, and the ‘Certificate of Appraisal Theory’ has just experienced a major upgrade. The NAJ Education Team, with the support of my valuation colleagues, last month delivered the Level 3 JET Certificate in the Foundations of Appraisal Practice, or ‘FoAP’ for short. Not only has the theoretical side been renovated and modernised, but a practical element has been introduced. And, one of the most significant developments is that this is the first NAJ qualification to make it onto the Regulated Qualifications Framework (RQF), a real first for the IRV and, once again, serious kudos.

Profile We continue to work on developing the website for ‘Find a Valuer’ to present the most professional profile possible for the Institute and its Members and Fellows, and increase its reach and influence for public and trade customers. Being able to link the

Better Business What am I proud of that we’ve done this year?

New Associate, Student and Retired IRV non-practising membership categories Parity in fees for FIRVs and MIRVs Find a Valuer profiles to and from the Find a Jeweller directory is a nice touch, as is the ability to list additional locations we can cover – not just relying on the single set location. However, being able to view the number of visits to my profile is extremely useful so I can see if the updated profile that the NAJ has paid for is taking effect. If you’re an IRV and haven’t yet requested your free profile update, be sure to take advantage while it lasts.

The recently produced series of videos will do well, I’m sure, to give more profile to the IRV, as do the social media accounts that feature members, to help build public understanding of 1) why valuations are so important and 2) why it’s so important an IRV delivers the valuation.

The NAJ Yearbook is a new addition, and in truth I’m still getting to grips with it… in its digital format – but the opportunity is certainly appealing to help highlight to NAJ retailers where their closest IRVs are. Personally, I would like to see the publication move from a digital-only format to include a printed version and then see it distributed far and wide to increase the coverage for the IRV and NAJ supplier communities as a whole… but I’m told to ‘watch this space’! Exposure like this in The Jeweller regularly gives the IRV publicity and a voice, as it does in the monthly NAJ Live events where IRVs have been speakers. I’m delighted that we’re able to experience such coverage, but don’t get me wrong… I’ll always press for more!

More coverage is possible at the NAJ Summit next year, which features the Valuers’ Conference and Jewellery Retailers’ Congress, especially as the speaker line up is so strong, and some trade shows have opted out of scheduling 2021 events. With physical meeting opportunities likely to be few and far between, it’s good that the Summit dates are firmly in the diary for next year (19th21st June) at the De Vere Staverton Park in Northampton, 15 minutes off the M1, COVID regulations in mind.

Save money The NAJ is a trade body after all and so as a Fellow myself I expect to be able to not only raise my profile, benefit from the kudos of the Membership or Fellowship, but also save on my costs (and time).

Exclusive access to price guides, pre-sales estimates from auction houses, legal and tax helplines, resource libraries and enhanced insurance benefits all help, but it is this area where I think more can be done, and is why I’m absolutely determined to make sure the IRV Members and Fellows are able to save money as the industry recovers from the impact of COVID-19.

Now we’re moving into the final months of the year, we are starting to look at 2021.

Making IRV Fellowship and Membership fees the same for next year is a long overdue action I believe, and fees for the previously referenced Associate, Student and Retired membership categories are reasonable in comparison. In fact for FoAP students, IRV student membership is included.

Also looking ahead to 2021, I believe that the most significant cost-saving that could be applied… has been. I had great delight in working with IRV administrator Sandra Page, to make Members and Fellows aware that by renewing their membership before a set date they were eligible for a much greater discount to attend the Valuers’ Conference than in previous years; so long as they book to attend at the same time as they pay their subscription. Fantastic news.

… and also: Communication When it comes down to it, communication is so key to a lot of what I’ve written here, and I do feel communication has been much improved since the turn of the year.

Yes the monthly ‘Keeping you in the Loupe’ newsletter is always relevant, and the IRV Email Group remains a popular benefit for peer support, but for me, sitting on the National Committee as the Valuations Steering Group representative, knowing that the IRV cogs are turning intertwined with the Association as we head towards the holy grail of Chartership, is a good feeling.

Do you offer a valuation service and are not yet a member of the IRV? Visit naj.co.uk/irv Email irv@naj.co.uk Call 0121 237 1110

Modernised appraisal qualification (FoAP) Marketing support for web profiles Communication with Keeping You in the Loupe (via newsletter and virtual meetings) Find a Valuer online directory was improved (we’re not finished here though!)

NAJ Yearbook directory IRV video series to educate consumers IRV social media platforms Increased discount to attend the Valuers’ Conference A Digital Valuers’ Conference Continued full support by the NAJ Reinstated the Valuations Steering Group (VSG) with new IRV representatives and effective sub-groups more inclusive of the valuing community Delivered a new IRV Registration & Professional Review Panel to oversee CPD and associated activities going forward Increased IRV representation on to other NAJ steering groups including the Education Steering Group Extensive support for valuers to engage with the rest of the IRV community during lockdown, as well as the rest of the NAJ community Appointed new IRV Student Advisors who are being trained to the level of other bodies operating qualifications on the national framework Delivered a Be COVID Safe training course to ensuring consumer confidence when valuers began operating post lockdown Updated the NAJ’s Principles of Best Practice for Valuers which applies to all NAJ members that carry out valuation services, with added responsibilities for IRVs to clearly differentiate between an IRV and others

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NAJ News

20

The Jeweller

How to Build and Implement an Equality and Diversity Policy in Your Workplace With Equality and Diversity (E&D) featuring heavily in society, the Association’s Better Business Steering Group has revisited its policy guidance on the subject to provide a step-by-step ‘how to’ for the jewellery workplace.

T

he following (condensed) guidance is presented in consultation with members – what you see here is still in draft form. Please send any feedback to: membership@naj.co.uk For the full version of the guidance visit: naj. co.uk/equality-and-diversity

Introduction A key to future productivity and performance in your business is recruiting from the widest possible pool of talent, and ensuring its future growth within your business. Many private businesses lack an E&D policy to help create positive outcomes, and so benefit from the wealth of diverse talent on offer. Our aim is to assist you in introducing and monitoring a policy to improve your business.

The Equality Act 2010 protects people from discrimination related to any protected characteristics – of which there are nine: • Age • Disability • Gender reassignment • Marriage and civil partnership • Pregnancy and maternity • Race • Religion and belief • Sex • Sexual orientation While businesses are not required by law to have an E&D policy in place, it’s against the law to discriminate against any of the above. Often, discrimination and diversity go hand-in-hand; to mitigate the risk of potential disputes, it’s prudent to adopt a vigorous

approach to workplace policies and a diligent reviewing process.

Step One: consultation and data compilation Consultations are ideal for introducing business changes. Making motivations and intentions clear is paramount to the success of an E&D policy. It allows staff to raise questions or concerns and gives your business time to assess findings. Involve all staff, including those on sick, maternity and adoption leave and career breaks.

1. Invite staff to a group consultation and outline proposed intentions and actions.

Prepare to answer questions, such as why you’re preparing to introduce an E&D policy.

2. Following consultation arrange individual consultations to explain how the policy will be implemented and hear any personal concerns or suggestions.

3. Following consultations, present your findings to your staff. Be prepared to answer additional questions.

Step Two: identify areas of concern With combined information gathered through consultation and data review, you can identify underrepresented areas. Start with a high-level review of demographics: age, sex and race representation, then look deeper into department, position... Consider perhaps: • Is management full of older white males?

• Does the accounting department tend to hire only females?

• Are London branch employees more ethnically diverse than those in the Bristol branch?

Step Three: address policies or practices affecting diversity Having reviewed areas of concern, determine whether specific barriers are preventing the employment of individuals from different demographic groups. Are policies or practices in place that are contributing, such as: Unconscious biases: These are underlying attitudes and stereotypes that people unconsciously attribute to another person/ group that affect how they understand and engage with them. Are there departments that are underrepresented in relation to the labour market? Could the hiring manager be selecting individuals based on biases?

Review selection procedures.

Company culture: Apparent preferences toward aspects often associated with religious beliefs can repel candidates of differing beliefs or lifestyles. An annual Christmas party and recognising only Christian holidays can unintentionally send a message that only Christian employees are welcome. Consider a holiday party instead and provide floating holidays for the multitude of religious observances.

Political preferences: An employer with vocalised political allegiances or signs/ messages on its property may discourage individuals with different viewpoints from applying. Outward expression from an employee supporting a candidate who differs from a manager's choice can affect the manager's perception of the employee, and decisions regarding pay, performance and promotion. Take disciplinary action against intolerance of differences.

Step Four: identify business objectives Include specific E&D goals into your business strategy via three key areas:

NAJ News

Autumn 2020

Business: An inclusive and diverse workforce encourages a more diverse range of talent. Treating people fairly in recruitment, training and promotional opportunities helps motivate staff. E&D policy benefits:

The management team must be held accountable – examples of expectations include ongoing individual dialogue with staff regarding E&D, training and holding team members accountable for any adverse behaviour.

• A wider pool of talent applying for jobs

Step Six: implement initiatives

• Increased staff retention • Lower sickness absence rates • Increased productivity due to staff satisfaction and positivity Extending values to businesses you interact with leads to sharing of good practice, more effective working strategies and pooling of resources.

Morality: There is a moral case for ensuring equality of opportunity for staff and equality of access for customers and clients. The Equality and Human Rights Commission states: ‘Discrimination, whether conscious or not, limits an organisation's ability to get the best from its workforce. A climate where unlawful discrimination is fostered, condoned or ignored cannot provide these benefits’.

Law: Legislation exists because discrimination persists. There’s a time and resources cost for every case of discrimination brought against your business. Research from the Chartered Institute of Personnel and Development shows that ‘the average cost to an employer associated with an employee successfully bringing a case to an employment tribunal is £7,484, not including a manager’s time. An Employment Tribunal case takes an average of 16.4 days’. This far outweighs the cost of implementing fair working practices.

Step Five: support Successful change involves a top-down and bottom-up approach; use specific sections of the data report with different employee groups to stimulate dialogues about change.

Ask team members to apply for the role of initiative support. Depending on the size of your business, create a diverse committee of employees from all levels with leadership presence, to implement the goals defined in the previous step and promote workplace E&D. Provide a clear mission, defined budget and expectations. They should organise and implement: • Training and events to bring awareness to workplace E&D • Engaging co-workers in E&D conversation and training • Reviewing and developing policies and procedures to promote workplace E&D

A broad range of initiatives a business can implement to bring about greater visibility for E&D include: • Appoint executive sponsors Break into several categories or roles such as BAME, or cover all under one E&D manager.

For example, a BAME sponsor provides visible leadership on race and ethnicity in their organisation and drives actions like setting targets for ethnic minority representation, briefing recruitment agencies and supporting mentoring and sponsorship.

• Capture data and publish progress Ethnicity data is important for establishing a baseline and measuring progress – a crucial step towards reporting on issues like ethnicity pay differentials or inclusion.

• Commit to zero tolerance The Race at Work Survey revealed that 25 per cent of ethnic minority employees reported they’d witnessed or experienced racial harassment or bullying from managers.

Commitment from board level management is needed for change.

• Leadership Ensure active positive leadership can be seen in your management. This can include performance objectives that cover responsibilities to support fairness.

• Minority support Provide strategies that provide individual support to specific staff. Actions can include mentoring, reverse mentoring and sponsorship.

• Staff training Raise awareness through training. Develop an action plan to implement initiatives by setting realistic goals.

An action plan might be: 1. Initiative: Build E&D team for cultural competence and inclusive decision-making.

2. Responsibly: Sponsors E&D, director E&D 3. Action items: Cultural awareness and competency training, team-building exercises, ongoing E&D dialogue with E&D team one-on-one and during meetings.

4. Timeframes: Culture awareness and competency training: within six months; team-building exercises: annual staff retreat and monthly meetings; ongoing dialogue: as needed and ongoing during staff interactions.

Step Seven: communicating the initiative/policy For the best policy implementation, communicate to all members in your business.

People vary in how they understand messages – it’s important for each person to receive an ongoing stream of communications about initiatives. Use all media channels available to you and your team. The message can be amplified in one-to-ones and staff meetings.

Step Eight: measure and disseminate outcomes It’s vital to measure the results of implemented diversity initiatives. Monitor representation of identified groups for increased representation and understanding.

Check improved employee retention and public recognition – employer awards or social media accolades can indicate an employer’s E&D performance. Communicate results of regular initiative reviews.

Step Nine: review and adjust E&D initiatives aren’t static – have periodic reviews of initiatives and goals, measured both through data (staff retention, productivity...) and through staff feedback. Small adjustments may be needed or additional initiatives introduced, in which case, this guide can be revisited from Step One and onwards.

Step Ten: influence As you bring your tailor-made E&D policy into effect, go further by assessing your supply chain, partnerships and stock demographic.

By acknowledging an internal and external obligation to E&D, you can influence all aspects of the trade. The principles for fairness must extended outwards into the ways in which your business interacts with others.

Have you visited the Better Business toolbox yet, or even taken the health check?

Visit naj.co.uk/bb

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22

Education

The Jeweller

professions evolve and grow and FoAP fills the needs of today's valuer at the start of their career, especially with the new practical valuation element now included. Previously successful CAT students don't miss out either – they can continue to take the Practical Valuation Techniques (PVT) workshop to add the practical element to their CAT qualification.”

Initially the three-day PVT workshop, teaching the steps required to assess and value jewellery and prepare a valuation, was introduced. In early 2020, the NAJ’s Education Steering Group made the decision to fully incorporate the PVT workshop into the new qualification.

Chair of the Education Steering Group, Heather Callaway commented:

NAJ launches JET Foundations of Appraisal Practice

A

fter extensive preparations and background work, the NAJ has launched its new qualification for trainee valuers – the JET Foundations of Appraisal Practice (FoAP).

Like its predecessor, Certificate of Appraisal Theory (CAT), JET FoAP, is one of the pre-requisites of joining as a full practising member of the NAJ’s Institute of Registered Valuers (IRV), the leading professional body for UK valuers of jewellery, silverware and watches.

Having been fully updated and re-structured to include a more practical focus, the new JET FoAP qualification is now nationally recognised as part of the Regulated Qualifications Framework. This means that students are assured that their qualification is of the highest possible level, assessment is carried out to nationally recognised standards and student learning is supported by well-designed learning resources and assignments.

The NAJ has also decided to follow modern assessment practice, which puts less emphasis on exams for testing professional skills, knowledge and behaviours, and focuses more on using realistic scenarios to test the skills, knowledge and behaviours that the student will require to do the job.

So, how else does FoAP differ from CAT? The qualifications contain the same high quality of learning materials, focusing on the principles and concepts of jewellery, watch and silverware valuation. Students of both qualifications are supported by high calibre advisors, all practising valuers and highly regarded Fellows of the IRV. The main difference between the two qualifications is that in addition to theoretical learning that provides students with a detailed understanding of the IRV-approved approach to valuing jewellery, silverware and watches, students will also gain practical experience of undertaking a valuation, including how to use worksheets and compile a valuation document.

The JET FoAP qualification has been developed in response to feedback from students and from the IRV Registration Panel, who said that more support was needed on the practical elements of undertaking a valuation to help students prepare better for membership of the IRV. Sue Pennington, FIRV and member of the IRV Registration Panel said: “CAT has been a huge success and produced some fine, promising, new valuers. All

“As one of the original CAT advisors I’ve had the great privilege of supporting many aspiring CAT students over the years with a very good theory-based valuation programme. Students have frequently asked for more help and support on the practical elements of undertaking a valuation, so that they are more skilled and better prepared to apply for membership of the IRV. The FoAP has been introduced in response to student feedback.”

All new FoAP students will receive free student IRV membership providing access to its resources and networking, including an IRV mentor and discounted attendance at the annual Valuers’ Conference.

Recent CAT graduate and new Member of the IRV, Simon Johnson said: “Taking the time to engage with the all that the Institute can offer has increased my skills and confidence no end. I’m now valuing more professionally and confidently than I ever thought possible. The IRV is the only body capable of producing this quality of support and knowledge for student members and I couldn’t recommend it highly enough” The NAJ’s Head of Education, Marie Garnett added: “I’m really proud that the NAJ has achieved national accreditation and recognition for the new qualification. I’m excited that we’ve responded to student feedback and are providing a high quality learning experience that will help students acquire the knowledge, skills and behaviours that they require to become fully-fledged members of the IRV.”

Ready to view the modules in more detail and register your interest?

Visit: naj.co.cuk/JET Call: 0121 237 1110 Email: JET@naj.co.uk

Education

23

Clarity & Success Stars JET Award winners for May and June describe their jewellery journeys and the secret of their success.

interest that Michael and I share. We’ve discussed Lalique’s versatility and skill at length – invaluable to my project research.

In classic Michael style, he went the extra mile in lending me a book on Lalique that he’d purchased from the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum in Lisbon, that houses many of Lalique’s pieces.

Rupert Olav Gunter – Michael Lynes Jewellery, Witney (May) “I’ve always been interested in jewellery. I have early memories of going through my mother’s jewellery box and asking lots of questions. I loved polishing the silverware!

When I was seven, living in Norway, we had a hallmark book, which I read then looked for hallmarks on objects around the house. I remember being excited to discover the lion passant symbol on the back of our coasters.

My interest in gemstones also started early – my geode collection was a prized possession. In early 2018 I joined Michael Lynes, drawn by Michael’s knowledge and passion for the industry as well as an interest in the store’s vintage collection. I’m now a trainee manager.

“I particularly enjoyed the final project, focused on René Lalique, and how it allowed me to delve deep into the topic.

I also particularly enjoyed the module on diamonds and gemstones and using Cally Hall’s book on gemstones to aid my research. This was the topic that allowed me to assimilate the most new information.

Working through the sheer volume of information available surrounding the assignment topics and choosing the most relevant path to take in answering the questions, proved most challenging to me.

I was drawn to Lalique for my final project because I believe he was the arbiter of Art Nouveau. The drastic culture clash and refined yet inspired jewellery of that period in Europe is a favourite of mine, and an

“The modules on sales techniques and customer care help me directly in dealings with customers. The masterclass material for all the modules was pertinent to every day life working as a jeweller, from information about security to developing knowledge about gemstones and precious metals.

“I’ve already enrolled in the JET Professional Jewellers’ Diploma courtesy of Michael who has kindly sponsored me.

I’m currently finishing my first assignment.

I hope to continue working in this industry and to carry on learning and perhaps one day own my own business.”

Michaela Farrell – Chisholm Hunter, Chester (June) “My career in jewellery was a happy accident. Halfway through University I was diagnosed with epilepsy so had to drastically rethink my options.

After graduation I worked part-time in Accessorize, then full-time at Warren James, discovering a passion for selling jewellery. I joined family-run Chisholm Hunter in April 2018 as I wanted to work with higher-end pieces.

“We’re all trained in diamonds, fine jewellery and Swiss timepieces, but tend to focus on specific departments depending on our strengths and interests. I naturally gravitated towards diamonds. One of the most important parts of my job is customer interaction. It’s very special helping someone choose the perfect engagement ring and welcoming them back with their partner for matching wedding bands. I’ve even had clients return to celebrate their pregnancy with an eternity ring.

“Chisholm Hunter makes training a priority, investing in its staff to give us the best chance of success. I knew immediately that I wanted to take JET. Thanks to guidance from my managers and team members I quickly became confident at approaching customers and in the sales process. However, with no previous experience in luxury jewellery, the more I learn the better salesperson I’ll become.

“My favourite part of the coursework was on gemstones, particularly the corundum family – learning how gemstones get their vibrant colours was extremely interesting. I loved studying independently, choosing topics that piqued my interest, like shaped diamonds and favourite designers. My final project was about the iconic Harry Winston – his aspirational designs and manufacturing methods. His long-standing connection to Hollywood and his involvement in discovering some of the world’s most magnificent diamonds and gemstones captured my interest. He’s created some of the worlds most exquisite and contemporary pieces but has never swayed from his traditions.

“Taking JET helps greatly in my everyday work. After studying gemstones and the MOHs scale I can suggest pieces that are best suited to the client’s lifestyle. Understanding the practicality of certain settings, precious metals and specific diamond shapes, is particularly useful. The course has taught me a lot about the whole jewellery industry, not just the small part I play on the shop floor.

Understanding the process from mining to manufacture means I’m more confident in answering questions. Also, the final projects helped keep me sane through lockdown!”

Are you ready of your JET Certificate? For more information, visit naj.co.uk/JET

24

Business Advice

The Jeweller

Seven questions every business owner needs to answer ASAP says Michael Donaldson, JET Business Network facilitator

Even high performing, strategically sound businesses that have been run extremely well over the pre-covid years are having to reassess their futures. Some will become stronger, some will recover and some will cease, but there is one thing for certain, not everything will return to normal once this pandemic is beaten.

Here are seven questions a business owner should be addressing to understand the business realities of the country coming out of lockdown.

Q1. Power Struggles?

As the global superpowers continue to ‘slug it out’, the ramifications will be felt by billions around the world. The US, EU and China are our largest trading partners and then there’s Brexit.

So, what has that got to do with your business? Nothing, unless you, your suppliers and your customers are insulated from changes in international trade tariffs, exchange rates, metal prices, product compliance, innovation etc.

Q2. Purpose?

One thing that probably hasn’t changed for the majority, is a company’s purpose – why a company does what it does. That’s not to say it hasn’t or won’t be affected by accelerated changes in how we think and feel about the issues and opportunities facing us as we continue to address life in and beyond this pandemic.

After months in social isolation, waiting for life to reboot and worrying about what the future may bring, many more people will be looking for more meaningful work. Actions are now expected on the pre-pandemic issues round diversity, inclusion, equal pay, climate change and BLM. Company words and good intentions will no longer cut it with the pandemic public – the mood has changed.

Q3. People?

As some of the 9.5m UK furloughed workers begin to return to work, it’ll be an emotional and anxious time for some and a different return for all; beginning with the commute, compounded by a work environment that demands distancing, PPE, and possibly different start and finish times. One of the challenges facing businesses will be resetting their culture (and policies) with employees potentially working at home, in the office, in the shop, in the warehouse or in the factory.

How quickly a business can re-establish a sense of common purpose, shared identity and a sense of belonging will give them an advantage.

The pandemic impact on processes will present opportunities and threats across the business, in areas such as: innovation, supply chains, online shopping, sales skills, finance and mitigating the damage of the next lockdown/pandemic.

Q6. Potential Opportunities?

Acting now could position a business not only to survive Covid-19, but prosper postCovid-19. Market share will be available from the failure of competitor businesses to re-open or stay open, but more immediately for businesses handling the crisis better than others – from simple PPE measures to sensitive, clear communications.

Acquisition targets will be cheaper and more acquisition opportunities (be they companies, people, products or processes), will present themselves as businesses struggle to recover.

Q7. Profit?

Q4. Product?

Just one question needs answering here: how will all the above impact the profit line?

As a profit rule it’s always better to choose difference over discount and to avoid responding in kind to product dumping and price-cutting; it’s easier if your products and services have a compelling difference.

No one ever said it was easy running a business, and with challenges like these you might consider seeking some external support from your local Chamber of Commerce, Local Enterprise Partnership, Business Improvement District or a management consultant (I happen to know a very good one) or better still from an annual subscription for the JET Business Network.

Internal discussion will be driven by how businesses regard their products and services but more importantly how their customers regard them – are you supplying nonessentials or essentials?

• Monthly Performance Reports - enabling you to benchmark your business against other retail jewellers • Online Q&A Forum – whether you have a business issue or just seek guidance. You ask the question and the members answer

For an annual subscription of £850, you and your business will benefit from the shared knowledge, experience and expertise of the JBN via:

Q5. Process?

• Educational Store Visits – allow you to see and hear what other jewellers are doing • Regional Group Meetings – to discuss the issues and opportunities they face, as well as develop new business skills

• New Flash Service – receive relevant business and Industry articles straight to your inbox • Member Business Surveys – on topics identified by the members • Plus the opportunity to influence and shape the content of the Annual Congress For further information visit naj.co.uk/JBN or call Michael Donaldson on: 07817 305 122 or email: michael@thevalueinnovator.co.uk

Designer Profile

Autumn 2020

In June this year, Eleni Koumara of Eni Jewellery was announced as the recipient of the NAJ Award at the (online) British Craft Trade Fair. So what makes a winner?

Asks Belinda Morris.

Eleni – Eni Jewellery Where did you train as a jeweller and was it always your first choice of career? What led you into the jewellery world?

via my website enijewellery.com and I am very happy to have some stockists in Greece, Spain, Brussels and the UK.

my efforts have been rewarded. I am super excited and grateful, and I hope that it will open new opportunities for my business.

I remember myself making jewellery with simple materials since I was eight or nine. I don't have an academic education in jewellery – I got involved in silversmithing back in 2008, when I began experimenting with metals and fire under the guidance of Manolis Manimanakis – a great artist and craftsman. I would watch him work, and he showed me the basics on soldering, stone setting etc.

What inspires your work and do you have a particular woman in your mind when you design?

I see you are taking part in the next BCTF online showcase this month…

Six months later I bought my own equipment and I started practicing. In a way, I can call myself self-taught. I have a degree in computer engineering, and although I have worked as a web developer, I couldn't give up my passion for creation and expression.

What has been your career path to date?

Once I finished my university degree I decided to attend a short course in jewellery design at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London. In 2016 I decided to go full time with the jewellery business, prior to that I was web developing. To date I have not regretted that decision, as it gave me the chance to dedicate my self full time to what I love. Also I had the chance to take part in several exhibitions all over the world, like Dutch Design Week and the Biennale in Shanghai.

When and where did you establish your own business? Were you selling directly to the consumer or to the trade?

I established Eni Jewellery Ltd in London in 2016. I am selling directly to consumers

I get inspiration from different things. My previous collections were inspired by urban landscapes and music movements. The latest – Enyo – was inspired by the goddess of war in Classical Greek mythology. The main idea behind the Enyo collection is us, the human beings: the extension of our limits, our inner strength, the power and the self-estimation.

Yes! The previous one was a great experience – I couldn't imagine that a show would have been transferred online with such a big success. And all thanks must go to the amazing work that the BCTF team have put behind it. I am really looking forward to the next one.

I usually don't have a particular woman in mind when I design my collections. I am trying to keep a balance between the forms and the shapes, and I think I couldn't design a piece that I wouldn't wear myself. I work in fine silver, which is softer and brighter than sterling silver. I can give it any form I like.

How have the last six months been for you, work-wise? Have you managed to continue designing and selling?

To be honest, those six months weren't the easiest. Many shops have closed, some of them permanently, but thankfully I managed to continue designing and selling online. I truly thank all the people that are supporting my work and they keep choosing handmade jewellery.

What does winning an award at BCTF mean for you and your business?

It is a great honour to get the NAJ Award of Excellence in Jewellery. It feels like all

Following the success of the BCTF online fair in June, with many orders taken, a second interactive online fair took place 20th-22nd September, with a raft of new features.

The next physical fair is due to take place 10th-13th April, 2021 at the Yorkshire Event Centre, Harrogate.

Visit naj.co.uk/whats-on

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The Jeweller

Autumn/Winter 20/21 Preview… the show must go on Real Life events may have been – necessarily – postponed, but that doesn’t mean the new season has been put on ice.

To those designers, manufacturers and brands who have kept the wheels turning and the creative juices flowing over the past few months… we salute you. While key trade shows like IJL and CMJ’s Autumn Event are unable to go ahead, the fruits of your labour clearly deserve a platform and retail jewellers still want to know what’s new… so we’ve gathered together highlights from new collections.

Hockley Mint

Brown & Newirth

Domino

Brown & Newirth

Andrew Geoghegan

Trends

Autumn 2020

Diamonds for Today Flexi-Link

Andre Michael

Sheldon Bloomfield

Tankel

Gemex

Diamonds for Today Semi-Set

Gemex

Diamond Jewellery Hockley Mint

Bass Premier/Diamonds for Today

Launched in 2019, Hockley Mint continues to see growth in its cost-effective Embrace bridal and wedding jewellery collection of engagement rings, wedding bands, eternity rings and wedding day suites with a range of fancy cut diamond options. The range stars a looping heart-shaped diamond setting and others with petal-shaped mounts for cushion and princess cut diamonds. hockleymint.com

The Semi Set line offers unique, affordable jewellery – the best products and service with no compromise on quality (heavier, more solid mounts with great setting and G VS+ stones). For fast delivery all regular lines are stocked. The Londonmade Flexi-Link comprises smooth, tactile drop earrings, necklaces, pendants and bracelets in 18ct yellow, rose and white gold, or platinum, set with ethically sourced diamonds. Visit the new website: diamondsfortoday.co.uk

Brown & Newirth Brown & Newirth has added to its awardwinning ‘Bloom’ collection of engagement rings, which are now available with split and French set shoulders. Retail partners can also choose from a range of metals and diamond grades. A new website features state-of-theart search functionality with an appointment booking system and a ‘Concierge’ try-beforeyou-buy service. brownandnewirth.com

Domino Jewellery Anthology 2020 is inspired by nature, astrology and vintage eras, with 16 stories featuring statement necklaces, simple pendants, chandelier earrings, studs, bangles and rings. A choice of 18ct gold colours are available as well as diamond and gemstone mixes, while Anthology Bijou offers more delicate, entry-level designs.

The Rosabella line has relaunched, with a luxurious brochure for retailers to share with customers. info@dominojewellery.com

Andre Michael Manufacturer Andre Michael is offering an in-house bespoke jewellery making service to retailers, guaranteeing swift delivery in a growing market due to rising tastes for personalisation. Customers often identify designs on the internet that inspire them and request their own interpretation from their local family jeweller. Retailers can send in their requests, including an image of the required piece, to: bespoke@andre-michael.com

This season Gemex will present tapered diamond set trilogy rings and fancy yellow diamond engagement rings. Extended and exclusive ranges are available on its website for ordering online. Adorned with either GIA or IGI certified centre stones starting from 0.25 carats to 1.00+. E-mail the team and ask about the box of best sellers and popular, free state-of-the-art CADCAM service. sales@gemex.co.uk

Andrew Geoghegan The new Costeira collection is inspired by the angular Portuguese coastline – where it was conceived. The interlocking rings, in platinum, white, yellow or rose gold, feature kite-shaped frames, each holding two microset diamonds. The rings (also symbolising connectivity) are available full or half-set. andrewgeoghegan.com

Kohinoor Jewellers The new everyday-wear diamond collection is based on geometrical shapes. Lightweight and affordable these fast-selling pieces offer high quality at an attractive price point. A highlight of the new collection is a statement necklace that takes inspiration from the gardens of the Taj. Base stones in this collection would always be emeralds – the preferred stones of the Mughals – and showcase the Taj’s flora and fauna. kohinoorjewellers.com

Sheldon Bloomfield See entry under ‘Coloured Gemstones’

Tankel In response to a strong demand for trilogy rings – some with coloured gemstones – featuring white diamonds that are exceptional value for money, Tankel has extended its collection to include these pieces. tankel.co.uk

Kohinoor Jewellers

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NAJ News

The Jeweller

Trends

Autumn 2020

Tivon Fine Jewellery

Picchiotti

Ntinga

Satta Matturi

Coloured Gemstone Jewellery Ntinga

PJ Watson

Ntinga has been working hard on birthstone collections: the cluster collection is a diamond and coloured gemstone range of pendants, earrings and rings; the Aura Collection features rose cut gemstones in their natural form representing the 12 birthstones or meaningful gemstones, on a silver chain with engraveable disc and gemstone claw stud earrings are in 9ct gold with a range of different colours. ntinga.co.uk

Renowned for its fine diamond and coloured gem set jewellery, Hertfordshire-based PJ Watson maintains a stock of hundreds of items. However as designers and manufacturers its strength lies in offering one-off pieces featuring unique gems at competitive prices. Shown here is an 18ct gold ring set with bi-coloured tourmaline and diamonds. info@pjwatson.co.uk

Sheldon Bloomfield

The Italian brand’s XpandableTM Collection, with its invisible mechanism that allows the fine rings and bracelets to expand and contract, is constantly being developed and improved. The new ‘Glee’ line features fashion-forward designs with vibrant stones, alternating with diamond pavé motifs – perfect for stacking. picchiotti@pjwatson.co.uk

The popular multi-sapphire range has been expanded, with fancy sapphire pieces set without diamonds to emphasise the colour and ‘keep it simple’. Sheldon Bloomfield has also introduced a two-tone gold and diamond range – yellow gold was definitely in more demand last year, so new diamondset items have been introduced. sheldonbloomfield.com

Tivon Fine Jewellery The Classic Collection re-embraces certain timeless gemstones and designs, combined with keen price-points. Market forces and its own trajectory to the top end of the market, has kept Tivon’s prices higher in recent years. “Now as the silver brands’ domination wanes and gold re-emerges as the metal of choice, we’re reintroducing lines that help retail partners and consumers recapture lower prices BUT without compromising quality!” tivonjewels.com

PJ Watson

Picchiotti

Satta Matturi Designer Satta Matturi’s Totem mask earrings are an added extension to her current Artful Indulgence collection, which takes its inspiration from African batik and lace fabrics as well as West African tribal masquerade. The bold, 18ct gold chandelier earrings feature rose cut diamonds and a variety of quality coloured gemstones. info@sattamatturi.com

Ti Sento See entry under ‘Gold’

Sheldon Bloomfield

Ti Sento

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Trends

The Jeweller Sheila Fleet

Kit Heath

Kali Ma

Angel Whisperer

Sarah Alexander

Sarah Alexander

Silver and Fashion Jewellery Angel Whisperer

Sheila Fleet

The Powerful Stone Collection consists of six different stones, for different effects. The interchangeable rhodium plated sterling silver necklace can hold any stone to give wearers the option to co-ordinate an outfit or change to give off their energy. The stones are: rose quartz, malachite, blue agate, lapis lazuli, red jasper and tiger’s eye. The same stones are also available in stud earrings and bracelets. guardianbrands.co.uk

The new Seasons collection is inspired by a walk in Inverewe, a vast botanical oasis in the West of Scotland. In either silver and enamel or silver with yellow gold and enamel (as seen here) the four colourways represent Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter for a selection of necklets, pendants, earrings and rings. Scottish Gold is also available. sheilafleet.com

Reeves & Reeves

Kit Heath Of the core lines based on the popular Bevel collection, creative director Katie Nickell notes: “Consumers are increasingly aware of environmental issues and seek better quality, timeless pieces, rather than disposable ‘fast fashion’.” In keeping with the rainbow trend the line includes neckwear with gemstones, while the toggle bracelet with joining links comes with CZ, to help wearers ‘stay connected’. New Huggie hoop earrings, with pavé set CZ, add a spirit-raising touch of glamour. sales@kitheath.com

Unique & Co

New this season: the Crown collection, with ring, studs and necklace, with great attention to detail, in high shine silver and touches of 18k gold vermeil, is perfect for special occasions. The humorous Welly and Brolly, with bright pops of colour, collection celebrates the great British weather. Enameled necklaces, earrings and bracelets feature movement in star and dot detailing and are ideal for layering. The stone collection includes labradorite, pink and aqua chalcedony, set in high shine silver. reevesandreeves.com

Reeves & Reeves

The Sarah Alexander brand is innovative and designed for easy everyday wear and to be layered and interchangeable with the range for endless possibilities for matching to different looks. A varied selection of design styles means there is something for every taste and occasion. Mainly working in sterling silver, with around 50 different natural gemstones, the inspiration across the collection is a mix of Scandinavian minimalism and designs which reflect the art and culture of the Far East, Europe, Africa and the Caribbean. sarahalexanderjewellery.co.uk

Kali Ma Following continued success with the Opalique collection Kali Ma has launched a new Autumn collection, which includes reflections of the ocean. The natural shimmer of the opalique with blue and green accents lends itself perfectly to manta ray pendants and earrings, alongside turtles and simple wave rings. High polished sterling silver accentuates the stone colours.

All Kali Ma collections, including Limited Edition pieces, can be viewed and ordered on the newly launched website: kalimadesigns.com

Unique & Co Interesting detailing defines Unique Women’s sterling silver collection with its 3D storytelling pieces. With over 50 new silver styles there are multiple ranges of capsule collections. Each is designed to layer into existing ranges and consists of pavé highlights, rhodium features,18ct Rose gold vermeil and 18ct yellow gold vermeil highlights. The handmade sterling silver designs are based on organic forms found in the natural world, such as circles, flowers and leaves – necklaces, earrings and bracelets have a simple purity and elegance. uniqueandco.com

Trends

Autumn 2020

Men’s & Children’s Jewellery

Little Star

Unique

Little Star

Unique & Co

During lockdown Little Star ran a competition for kids to design jewellery, with the two winning designs forming part of the new collection. Many designs submitted followed a rainbow theme. After notable success the freshwater pearl offering has expanded to include a charm-style necklace and bracelet, a diamond star bracelet and a t-bar heart charm necklace and bracelet set. For girls of all ages there are stylish, premium quality, valuefor-money heart and star pieces with longer chains, with adjustable lengths for girls little and big to enjoy. littlestarjewellery.com

Unique’s new styles offer more colourways in the popular brushed finishes that are perfect for layering with other items from the men’s collections. The new, slightly wider wristwear, with its pared-back simplicity, has a playful two-tone look and features brushed steel and can be worn alone or layered Rose plating continues to inspire and new styles include intriguing, mechanical movement cufflinks and inlay rings. uniqueandco.com

H2on @ Midhaven

Midhaven New for 2020 is ‘H2on’, a range of high quality, contemporary Italian bracelets and pendants. Made from fine leather, rope and stainless steel with 18ct overlay and natural stones, the stylish line is complemented by eye-catching Tuscan wood POS and white display and impressive H2on cardboard POS boxes. Lines can be chosen individually or, following discussion, a selection can be tailored, with anything swopped within 14 days. Check the website for an e-catalogue: midhaven.co.uk

Anchor & Crew Set to release 75 new designs in Autumn, the new lines will see the continued expansion of a natural stone collection – such a line proving very popular since it's release in early 2020. The brand will also move into daintier designs as it sees the concept of bracelet layering continue to grow for men as it has for women.

Director Chris Warner adds: “For us, being handcrafted in Britain and having customer services and a price point to match is much more respectful of the process than making an equivalent design for much cheaper abroad." anchorandcrew.com

Unique

Anchor & Crew

Deakin & Francis Deakin & Francis

Created to support the NHS, the Limited Edition Rainbow Bumble Bee collection of cufflinks and lapel pin, are in sterling silver with enamel and are inspired by the rainbows painted by children to symbolise hope. Ten per cent of each purchase will be donated by Birmingham-based Deakin & Francis to the NHS. deakinandfrancis.co.uk

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Trends

The Jeweller

Matt Aminoff

Little Star

Claudia Bradby

Pearl Jewellery Pearls of the Orient The latest earring collection combines cultured freshwater pearls with both large and small gently twisted gold vermeil and sterling silver hoops. The two designs feature either classic teardrop-shaped cultured freshwater pearls contrasting with modern hoops, or large baroque drop pearls for a very distinctive look. The pearl drops can be removed from the hoops adding an additional selling point. pearls@pearlsoftheorient.co.uk Satta Matturi

Matt Aminoff London Matt Aminoff continues to develop its collection of one-of-a-kind pearl and diamond pendants, seeking out the most outstanding South Sea and Tahitian pearls, taking into account size, shape, natural colour and lustre. In the Hatton Garden workshops they are set in platinum or 18ct gold and decorated with diamonds.

Latest features include a 17mm Australian South Sea pearl set in platinum and a 14mm Indonesian South Sea gold pearl, in 18ct yellow gold. All are displayed on 34” heavyweight Spiga chains. mattaminoff.com

Yoko London Pearls of the Orient

Claudia Bradby The Dreamcatcher Collection of silver and pearl jewellery designs combines the natural world “with that of our ethereal minds… to offer a glimmer of optimism about the future…” Organic elements such as feather forms and cowrie shells (cast from real shells) unite with freshwater pearls for pendants, necklaces, bracelets, while hoops, helix spiral earrings and chain ear threads add a contemporary touch. claudiabradby.com

Each piece inYoko London's latest collection, Sleek, is set in 18ct gold and pairs dainty, high quality Akoya pearls with diamonds in style-conscious, elegant designs. All have been designed with the modern woman in mind, created to enhance any outfit, from a casual daytime look, to a formal evening gown. The collection is affordable, yet retains the exceptional Yoko London quality. yokolondon.com

Satta Matturi Yoko London

While diamonds and coloured gemstones play a major role in the exotic jewellery by designer Satta Matturi, she is also inspired by pearls – in particular Akoya and South Sea varieties, used as the large key feature of a piece or as highlights and fringes. sattamatturi.com

Little Star See entry under Men's & Children's Jewellery

Autumn 2020

NAJ News

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The Jeweller

Designers

LucyQ

Alex Monroe

Vixi

In a new collaboration, jewellery design and craftsmanship fuses with the wit and style of writer and cultural observer Raven Smith – a non-gendered, sensory 18-piece collection, where a surface simplicity will reveal layers of hidden elaboration. For instance, a sleek band uncovers a row of 4.5mm freshwater pearls or cabochon-cut green tourmalines studded within – a wearer’s secret indulgence that leaves behind a tell tale shadow on the finger. alexmonroe.com

Inspiration for Vixi’s Desert Flowers collection is drawn from the determination, strength and natural beauty of cacti and succulents. Thetriple leaf detail of the hand finished brushed texture contrasts with the smooth sparkle of pavé-set tiny faceted zirconia. Ear jackets, stud earrings and hoops are in rhodium plated sterling silver or thick 18ct gold plated sterling silver. vixijewellery.co.uk

KLG

LucyQ Designs Lucy Q has added new pieces to her diamond set collections: Diamond Drop and Melting Diamond. Inspired by “the treasure within a piece of jewellery…” an expression of love, joy, remembrance, the Diamond Drop designs are flush-set with diamonds.

Melting Diamond draws inspiration from holistic therapy and the soul’s energy.

A centred negative space in each piece symbolises worries melting away with the power of positive thinking. A teardrop shape outline encapsulates thoughts – a way to express inner feelings. lucyqdesigns.co.uk

Shaun Leane From time immemorial the snake has proved inspiration for artists and craftsmen.

With the Serpent’s Trace collection, the House of Shaun Leane re-imagines the skeletal frame of this creature through elegant, articulated structures of silver-gilt vertebrae. The iconic spine bracelet is now joined by intricately crafted serpent skulls, set with clusters of white diamonds, attached to delicate skeletal trails that slide over the skin. shaunleane.com

Kassandra Lauren Gordon’s space-themed collection – Fly Me to Jupiter – appeals to “a woman who is bold, fearless and unapologetic about who she is”. The sky’s texture “that relates to the different moods and allure that aligns with women” is a feeling that she brings out in her designs, along with “the magical, mystery of the sky – the constantly moving planets, the brightly shining stars”. The movement and sparkle are captured in her pieces as they move with the body. kassandralaurengordon.com

Fei Liu

Yulan

Shaun Leane

Yulan’s popular Monet collection has been expanded to include the new Silver Full Bangle, the flowing shape creates a sculptural effect that is a new departure for the designer. All Yulan’s nature-inspired jewellery, with an emphasis on texture and finish, is hand-made in British workshops. yulanjewellery.co.uk

Fei Liu Award-winning designer Fei Liu’s versatile Carpe Diem collection has three looks aimed at three distinct consumer groups: young; professional women and more mature customers. All pieces combine high quality vibrant purple-aqua Swarovski Zircon Pentagon Star stones with white 8 hearts and 8 arrows cubic zirconia set in shards of contrasting white rhodium plated silver and 18ct gold plated silver. feiliufinejewellery.com

Yulan

Vixi Jewellery

KLG Alex Monroe

Trends

Autumn 2020

Marco Bicego

Sif Jakobs

Mark Milton

Sian Evans Disa Allsopp

Gecko

Sif Jakobs Vulcanello is designer Sif Jakobs’ tribute to the rustic Icelandic nature where she grew up – the more organic look with its curves and unexpected shapes references the rock formations and volcanic structures. A dash of glamour and sparkle is added with white zirconia stones, as well as black CZs for an edgier feel. mark@sifjakobs.com

Flora Bhattahcary

Ti Sento Milano

Ti Sento

Gold Jewellery Marco Bicego

Sian Evans

The spiral has always been a source of inspiration for Marco Bicego and in the new, contemporary collection – Marrakech Onde – it has been reinvented. Chain links in light, thin 18ct yellow gold are formed from irregular ovals joined by pavé diamonds, for earrings, necklaces, rings and bracelets. marcobicego@pjwatson.co.uk

London-based designer maker Sian Evans, with 35 years of goldsmithing knowledge and experience behind her, creates collections that are sold globally. The Fine Jewellery collections, made in her atelier workshop, feature the mark of the makers hand. Her interest in ancient jewellery technologies and archaeology informs the qualities inherent in her gold pieces, which are sensual, designed to be worn and to improve with time. sejewellery.com

Mark Milton While keeping prices keen for stockists for the Christmas season, Mark Milton feels that newness will always be desired, along with what the brand does best: welldesigned, well-made commercial products in gold and gemstones. In 9ct gold dainty pieces – like the Bee line – feature a variety of textures and small diamonds and stones, while in 18ct gold clean, simple, fashionforward pendants, bracelets and necklaces are designed as entry point fine jewellery pieces. mark-milton.com

Disa Allsop Born in London, but having been brought up in Barbados, Disa’s jewellery designs are greatly influenced by the island, with colourful gems playing a major role. She personally selects the stones, including rough and rare-cut golden citrines, warm garnets, rubies, sapphires and morganites as well as white and coloured diamonds that are set on unique bands. disaallsopp.com

‘The Future is in Your Hands’ collection offers a very bold direction for the brand (including a few ‘out there’ price points). A ‘70s retro vibe, with a dash of re-worked Art Deco, brings together 18ct gold-plated pieces featuring strong and opulent stones (like malachite and black onyx) and pattern such as tortoise and leopard. A dreamy atmosphere is created with rose gold plating and mother of pearl for combinations of soft and hard shapes. mesmericdistribution.com

Flora Bhattachary Flora’s one-of-a-kind designs include a selection of pieces from here new Shakti Collection, which was developed “in celebration of the strong and independent women who wear my jewellery – and symbolises female strength”. florabhattachary.com

Gecko – Elements Gold The luxury of time collection – destined to be passed-down for generations –comprises jewels with a conscious mind-set. Emanating quality over quantity, the classic pieces with a modern sensibility that pinpoint a period in time, or a cherished moment, can be worn eternally. Key pieces include amethyst and blue topaz, kite-shape jewels with diamonds; a white gold baguette bar suite with diamonds and an Art Deco-inspired statement set with ruby, emerald and diamonds. geckojewellery.com

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Emerging Designers

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The Jeweller

Bingjie Zhao

Coco Liang

Miho Ishizuka

Bright Young Gems

Tara Mansell

Melissa Schembri

While IJL – and therefore its student initiative Bright Young Gems – is on hold, fledgling jewellery designers across the country continue to study, create and innovate.

B

efore Covid-19 interrupted everything, the joint NAJ-IJL initiative to launch talented final year student and recent graduate jewellery designers was underway. UK colleges and universities had briefed those students in the competition to win coveted places on the scheme; designs were being completed and the race was on to be one of the chosen few to showcase their work at the September show in London.

The physical platform may have been snatched away, but we feel that those designers who have worked hard to finish collections – and have caught our eye – deserve to be seen. Lindsey Straughton, the NAJ’s industry ambassador and one of the judges of the annual BYG award, has selected a few of her favourites from among the colleges able to respond to our call for images.

Birmingham City University School of Jewellery Eleanor Jones Inspiration comes from a love of rock formations, crystals, minerals and geological processes – the textures, forms and colours derived from them. Initial sketches and model making lead to experimentation, using CAD software to reach final design concepts. Her jewellery is bold, precious and wearable.

Coco Liang The universe is the creation of order out of chaos; this collection aims to visualise this philosophy of order and chaos by creating repetition and patterns using precious metal, feathers and gemstones.

Melissa Schembri Sculpting skills are combined with modern technologies to create unusual luxury jewellery. During her final year Melissa has developed her skills as a Zbrush cad designer, creating sculptural pieces with concealed elements, which are emotive, wearable works of art.

Bingjie Zhao This 9ct gold collection reveals the beauty of space from a scientific approach – the hero piece imitates the coronal loops in solar activities. Wires are rooted in three main areas that represent the magnetic poles at the sun’s surface. The base is textured and decorated with garnets, which resembles the visual appearance of the sun.

Emerging Designers

Autumn 2020

University for the Creative Arts, Rochester Hannah Searles Inspired by the repetition of a single floral form, this flower neckpiece is created in oxidised square silver wire.

Dundee University College of Art & Design Tara Mansell “Beautiful adornments make the wearer feel special; my designs also have added symbolism. Water and sea-life are especially soothing – my inspiration is the spiny flower coral, with a soft but knobbly textured appearance and a simple radiating curved structure. Segments of filigree represent the tactile and delicate coral surface. Hidden functions help people cope with stress or anxiety – twisting and turning jewellery helps deal with tense situations.”

Kelda Young “My work is inspired by recollected fragmented memories that have been materialised through photography and condensed into abstract shapes through the medium of collage. I use recycled aluminium to cast hand carved rings – it’s unpredictable and can result in beautiful surface finishes from the casting process.

I also use recycled sheet metal to build hollow forms that allow my work to push the boundaries of scale but can still be worn comfortably.”

Central St Martins

Edinburgh College of Art

Miho Ishizuka

Daniela Groza

‘The Body is Temporarily Removed’ questions the fundamental role of jewellery and its relationship with the human body.

Miho believes that the physical body is often forgotten when it’s hidden under dazzling jewellery. This collection, inspired by the props, stands and archaeological tools used commonly in museums, redirects our attention, guiding people to observe and celebrate our human form as a living, artistic sculpture.

Modern Venus is a high-end fashion jewellery collection that promotes inclusivity, highlighting the beauty of diversity and individuality within one’s body shape and skin tone. Materials celebrate colour through the use of different metals: silver, gold, oxidised silver, 18ct red gold…

The Japanese Mokume-gane technique of blending and laminating different metal alloys to create marbled surfaces, echoes the beauty of skin imperfections.

Millie Marks The ‘Jocale’ (plaything) collection challenges the wearer to become creative through jewellery. Inspired by children’s building blocks and the art of joinery the collection constitutes toggles, wooden blocks and ropes. They link together to be customised and worn as diverse designs of rings and necklaces: through exploration and problem-solving, the wearer can participate in their process.

What are you creating? Remember to tag the NAJ on Instagram @UKNAJ

Bo Na Yoon This collection re-examines ancient culture, from Etruscan to Egyptian, focussing on the ancient jewellery technique of granulation.

It mimics traditional weaving patterns, including some from Scotland, combining them with granulation and creating threedimensional units, which then form pieces of jewellery. Common objects become artefacts with a hint of the immortal for contemporary jewellery.

Bo Na Yoon

Kelda Young

Millie Marks

Hannah Searles

Eleanor Jones

Daniela Groza

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Digital Show

The Jeweller

Shine 2020, the Goldsmiths’ Centre’s annual new talent showcase in jewellery and silversmithing, returns this year as a digital-only event, in response to “changed circumstances and consumer patterns”.

'Miniature Nature World' Caddy Spoon by Katie Watson

Main photo right: Jewellery designer Megan Brown

Jewellery designer Caitlin Hegney

Shine... like a star C

elebrating up-and-coming UK designer makers, Shine will present 11 new collections hand-picked for their originality and quality. Each maker will be supported through an intensive online skills training programme, delivered by the Goldsmiths’ Centre, and designed to get them marketready for the online opening on 17th September 2020.

Daisy Grice, Katharina Kraus, Sarah Shelton-Palmer, Ellys May Woods, Katie Watson, Francesca Urciuoli, Lindsey Fairley and Yilin Wang.Online Meet the Makers events, a digital press and buyers preview evening; and interviews and short films created with the makers and shared via the Goldsmiths’ Centre’s social media channels will be hosted as part of the Shine programme, to enable consumers and trade representatives to interact with the talented makers.

Providing a platform for these new businesses, every purchase of their work made via www.goldsmiths-shop-talent. org is reinvested to support the emerging and thriving careers. The online showcase will remain as the main exhibition on the website until 22nd December, 2020.

This year’s Shine exhibitors are: Caitlin Hegney, Heidi Carthew, Megan Brown,

Shine 2020 makers will be showcasing and selling their work from 18th September 2020 online at www.goldsmiths-shop-talent.org

Lotus Bracelet by Yilin Wang

Charlotte Dew, Public Programme Manager explains: “Taking Shine 2020 online this year offers exciting opportunities to bring beautiful designs directly to new audiences. We will be working with the best emerging talent in jewellery and silversmithing and providing intensive training for each maker to enable them to get the most out of selling at a distance. We’re delighted to be supporting their enormous potential and talent; we believe they are the ones to watch.”

Want to see more of what's taking place, whether in person or online. Visit naj.co.uk/whats-on

Digital Show

Autumn 2020

Woven Necklace by Megan Brown

Map 8 by Francesca Urciuoli, photographer Federico Cavicchioli

Kathy Kraus earrings with rhodolith and rainbow moonstone

Trilogy Spine Armour Ring by Daisy Grice

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News

The Jeweller

Retail in the time of Covid A snap-shot of how jewellers are adapting, innovating and keeping ahead post-lockdown.

L Guess

Adam Jacobs, Jacobs the Jewellers, Reading “During lockdown we emphasised our online abilities more heavily, putting phone consultations, online chats and video consultations, centre to the online buying process. Our type of jewellery and watches have always required explanation and supporting assistance, so by altering our website to promote this we dramatically improved our online sales.

When lockdown started we took our annual in-store emerging designer competition online, with online voting, communicating the competition on social media and eNews.

It proved exceptionally popular with 1,000+ votes (three times more than usual physical votes) and 2,400+ page views over threeweeks. Next year we’ll combine physical with virtual, widening our audience and cementing our position as a shop that helps express individuality, supporting local emerging talent and our skilled craft.

Aside from doorstep deliveries, we offered our usual eCom delivery. More important was the NAJ’s #storesafe scheme helping members navigate government guidance and set up required protocols. It put safety at the centre of the reopening message, utilising #storesafe branding on our bespoke hand sanitisers, eNews and website.

NAJ’s online staff training programme was mandatory for all the team returning, alongside our new and/or enhanced clientserving and hygiene policies. The new online appointment booking service smoothed customer flow and allowed a selection of visiting times. It’s been enthusiastically picked up – 109 appointments in under three weeks. Online appointments will be retained!

What lockdown has taught us: we can be imaginative, creative, positive and resilient. We have a great team who we further bonded with via regular weekly lockdown communications. We can consider,

Alok Sharma MP discusses safety measure with Adam Jacobs

implement, test and deploy lockdown choices and initiatives more nimbly and quickly than we thought! And fellow independents have a great open, giving support structure almost hard wired in their DNA.”

Sophie Guess, L Guess, Littlehampton and Rustington “There have been lots of interesting changes in stores and how we’re having to carry out business now. I have to say it’s currently booming and although footfall is way down, we’re closing some really nice sales and the customers are, overall, being really nice.

We’ve introduced an online booking system, which has been very successful and is definitely something we intend to continue.

It has a number of benefits: we know who’s coming in and what service they’re looking for, we can reserve our customer seating area exclusively for them, they can jump the queue and boy we’ve sure had some queues at certain times! Most importantly the customer

feels special and we’ve had a lot of feedback that they really like having an appointment to come in.

We’ve fully screened all our counters… but in a nice way (if there is such a thing) and have introduced a welcome desk at the door to meet and greet. So we can ensure customers receive a warm welcome, are sanitising their hands and lowering their mask before entering the store and provides a member of staff to chat to anyone queuing and answer any questions. It’s important for us that we’re following the NAJ guidelines and protecting our staff and customers. It would be easy to become complacent or not bother, but we have been complimented daily by customers on how well we’re doing things and how they feel safe and comfortable shopping with us. It’s not easy to get the balance of being Covid-safe while limiting customer levels and still ensuring an enjoyable in-store experience. As I say to my staff: jewellery is a luxury purchase and it’s important the customer is made to feel special despite the 'new normal'.

News

Autumn 2020

Kirsten Woods, senior marketing executive, Laings, Glasgow “To allow us to re-open safely we introduced a bespoke appointment system, inviting customers to book a time and date to suit them for appointments held in-store. The health and safety of our clients, staff and community has been paramount and was always at the forefront of our re-opening strategy. The appointment service, bookable online, allows us to deliver safety alongside personal, five-star customer service, providing a luxury experience. It’s allowed us to ensure appropriate social distancing, controlling the number of people in store at any one time.

Beaverbrooks

Other changes… we’re keeping staff on flexi as we don't currently need everyone in. We’re not carrying out same-day battery replacements and watch alterations – we’re following the 72-hour rule – most customers are completely fine with that. We’re also following a full sanitisation process before we examine customers' jewellery, gold for buying and after customers try on items of jewellery.

The store still looks beautiful despite screening and we’re trying our best to embrace this new way of doing things. I’m not sure what the Christmas period holds for us if we can only allow limited numbers of customers in-store – hopefully restrictions may have eased a little. However I feel screens and masks will still be in place.”

Sophie Fulford, Winsor Bishop, Norwich “We ran virtual appointments throughout lockdown as an obvious measure of keeping in touch. Initially team members and customers alike felt a shift in behaviour from what they were used to, but this very quickly became a preferred approach because we could see immediately that conversion rates increased if a virtual appointment had occurred.

Our assumption is that it’s to do with the face- to-face familiarity, and of course the ability to actually view the product rather than being reliant on still images or e-mail.

Other than the ability of physical touch, it really isn’t any different but comes with the added benefits of ease from the customer’s point of view – talking to us from their kitchen table. Operationally it’s quicker,

easier to upsell and conversion rates are high. These are a part of our normal service offering as we move forwards.”

Anna Blackburn, managing director, Beaverbrooks “As always, the safety of our people and customers is our number one priority, so we worked hard behind the scenes to put measures in place to protect them once we reopened our doors. [In the months during lockdown] we developed comprehensive plans for reopening, which put safety at the top of the list while ensuring we are able to resume the high level of personalised service our customers expect.

An engagement ring is one of the most important purchases you’ll ever make and to be able to see the sparkle and brilliance of a diamond for yourself and fall in love with the ring is so important… an experience you can only really get by being there in person.

The introduction of our jewellery cleaning process and increased hygiene measures will mean customers can do this safely, allowing them to continue to celebrate those special moments that are perhaps more important now than ever before.

The directors and I, along with the senior management team, have been actively involved in the reopening plans, from personal visits to stores and the warehouse to help implement the changes to ensure the safety of our people, to developing the plans for reformatting of stores in line with government guidance. It’s been a challenging and uncertain time for all of us, but we’re feeling optimistic about the future.”

Customers have been really positive about appointments, enjoying the oneto-one experience, whilst providing a safe environment. They’ve also been understanding of social distancing and why we have to limit the number of people in store. We’ve not had any problems with customers wearing face masks – they understand the safety concerns behind wearing them. We also introduced a Safety Pledge for both staff and customers.”

Sonny’s – Jewellery Quarter Diamonds Sonny’s of Vyse Street, Birmingham has not merely kept its head above water since lockdown, it’s opened a new store. The new concept Jewellery Quarter Diamonds, which opened earlier this month, is focussed on bespoke design and a relaxed luxury personal shopping experience. Seven new employees have been taken on and the team has “thought ahead about operating the shop during such a time.”

“We’ve had a customer hand-wash station installed, and all consultation booths are separated by elegant glass dividers,” explains Gemma Hickey, marketing executive. “It’ll be appointment only, partly so we can manage the flow of customers, but also to offer that premium and personal experience for customers.”

Benchmark your retail business against others and stay connected Some of the jewellery retailers presented here are members of the NAJ’s JET Business Network; a close community of independent retailers and one of the Association’s best kept secrets.

Visit naj.co.uk/JBN Call 0121 237 1110

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NAJ News

Maker-Mends Ltd

The Jeweller

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to provide you with a FIRST CLASS SERVICE for all your Jewellery and Watch Repairs, Bespoke Jewellery, Engraving, Setting and Stone Supply.

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Service Provider for the UK’s Jewellery and Watch Industry Maker-Mends Ltd Registered Office: Aquila House, Waterloo Lane, Chelmsford, Essex CM1 1BN Registered in England & Wales No. 3520552

Business Advice

Autumn 2020

Website Security Tips to Keep Your Business Safe

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he online shopping trend is potentially signalling a long-term change in the way consumers shop.

With this in mind, your website’s security is now more important than ever.

Cyber-criminals are constantly looking for improperly secured websites to attack, while many customers say website security is a top consideration when they choose to shop online. As a result, it is essential to secure servers and the network infrastructure that supports them. The consequences of a security breach are substantial: loss of revenue, damage to credibility, legal liability and loss of customer trust.

Web servers, which host the data and other content available to your customers on the internet, are often the most targeted and attacked components of a company’s network. By securing your web server, you protect customers and prospects that use your company website.

Specific security threats to web servers include: • Cyber-criminals exploiting software bugs in the web server, underlying operating system or active content to gain unauthorised access to the server • Denial-of-service attacks directed at the web server or its supporting network infrastructure to prevent or hinder your website users from making use of its services • Sensitive information on the web server may be read or modified without authorization • Information on the web server may be changed for malicious purposes.

Is it your jewellery business SecurityWise?

Many jewellers saw an increase in online purchases during lockdown and this trend is set to continue.

Be SecurityWise, warns industry insurer TH March.

Take the following five steps to protect your company from those threats listed above:

Step 4: Prevent unauthorised access or modification on your site.

Step 1: Form a plan and utilise the right people.

Content on publicly accessible web servers is inherently more vulnerable than information that is inaccessible from the internet, and this vulnerability means businesses need to protect public web content through the appropriate configuration of web server resource controls.

Because it is much more difficult to address security once deployment and implementation have occurred, security should be considered from the initial planning stage. Developing such a plan will support web server administrators in making the inevitable trade-off decisions between usability, performance and risk.

Step 2: Ensure that web server operating systems and application meet your security requirements.

When securing a web server, you must first secure the underlying operating system. Most web servers operate on a general-purpose operating system. Many security issues can be avoided if the operating systems underlying web servers are configured appropriately.

Step 3: Publish only appropriate information.

Generally accepted examples of what should not be published or what should at least be carefully examined and reviewed before being published on a public website include the following:

• Detailed physical and information security safeguards • Information that specifies or implies physical security vulnerabilities • Detailed plans, maps, diagrams, aerial photographs and architectural drawings of business buildings, properties or installations

•

Examples include:

• Install or enable only necessary services • Limit uploads to directories that are not readable by the web server • Define a complete web content access matrix • Use intrusion detection systems, intrusion prevention systems and file integrity checkers

Step 5: Protect and monitor web security.

Maintaining a secure web server requires constant effort, resources and vigilance.

Securely administering a web server on a daily basis is essential, including:

• Backing up critical information frequently • Maintaining a protected authoritative copy of your organisation’s web content • Establishing and following procedures for recovering from compromise • Testing security periodically Taking proactive measures to secure your website by carefully setting up and maintaining your web server can save your business from experiencing crushing losses of revenue, customer loyalty and proprietary information.

Be protected with the TH March Club

•

Visit naj.co.uk/SecurityWise

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Shows

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The Jeweller

Melanie Georgacopoulos

Deborah Blyth

The industry’s ‘new normal’ will be kicked off in style with the UK’s first jewellery show to take place In Real Life since lockdown. It’s a big Yay! for The Jewellery Cut Live!

Jewellery Cut Live -

Amira Karaouli

T

he glamorous, socially-distanced event on 11th and 12th October comes with added sparkle thanks to the backing of Fuli Gemstones.

The peridot miner has signed a three-year deal to be headline sponsor of The Jewellery Cut Live. Fuli Gemstones, which owns the largest-known peridot mine in the world, will also use the event to showcase loose peridot gems and peridot jewels specially commissioned from emerging designers.

Liv Luttrell

Fuli Gemstones peridot 59cts

that will educate guests about the properties of this green gemstone. Peridot, a gem loved by the Egyptians, Victorians and royalty throughout history, has long been revered as a symbol of wealth and is found deep within the earth’s mantle, or locked in lava or meteorites (meaning that some peridot comes from outer space).

The two-day event, held at The Royal Institution on Albermarle Street, W1, will showcase the work of more than 20 independent jewellery designers, including Zeemou Zeng, Baroque Rocks, Melanie Georgacopoulos, Marie Mas, Olivia & Pearl, Deborah Blyth, Libby Rak and Noor Shamma. The show will be attended by store buyers, press, industry insiders and jewellery-loving consumers, who can shop directly from designers at the show.

Fuli Gemstones chief marketing officer Pia Tonna said: “Fuli Gemstones is excited to be supporting London’s iconic jewellery showcase The Jewellery Cut Live. The founders Rachael [Taylor] and Andrew [Martyniuk] have a vision that Fuli and I equally share: to support emerging talent and to create a platform that represents some of the best in jewellery design. Fuli owns the world’s largest-known peridot deposit in the world and through this association, we not only aim to raise awareness of ‘the gem of the sun’ but we also want to shine a spotlight on the avantgarde.”

As part of the popular jewellery lecture series at The Jewellery Cut Live, Fuli Gemstones will orchestrate a talk on peridot

Now in its fifth season, the bi-annual twoday jewellery show held during London Fashion Week, will occupy the entire

Shows

Autumn 2020

historic Mayfair venue, which will allow visitors to browse the jewels on display safely. Exhibitors will be spaced out in well-ventilated rooms and all government guidelines will be respected and adhered to.

Hand sanitising stations will be provided, traffic flow will be regulated, and staff will adhere to a strict cleaning rota.

Marie Mas

Rachael Taylor said: “Coronavirus has had a huge impact on the jewellery industry calendar, postponing the majority of events until next year, but we were lucky enough to host our February event just weeks before the British lockdown.

Ilona Orel

“This is a time for positivity and for supporting independent creative jewellery talent, which is exactly what The Jewellery Cut was set up to do. Lockdown has been a difficult time for many jewellery designers, and I know they are really excited to get out there once again and showcase their work. After all, fine jewellery is a considered purchase that shoppers want to see up close before buying, and with more focus than ever on the makers behind the jewels, meeting the designers face to face has never been more important.”

Baroque Rocks

Nazli Hariri

Alexia Gryllaki

Jessica Steele

Akansha Sethi

Ruby Taglight

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NAJ News

The Jeweller

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Shows

Autumn 2020

Andrew Martyniuk added: “I’ve been in conversation with some of our VIP clients and the store buyers who usually attend The Jewellery Cut Live, and there’s a real appetite for a jewellery event. After a long lockdown away from jewels – during which many jewellers have reported a rise in sales, suggesting a renewed interest in jewellery amongst consumers – people are keen to get back out there and discover new designers and collections again. As a boutique event, able to spread out across the entirety of The Royal Institution, we can create a safe space for this to happen and whip up a muchneeded positive buzz around our brilliant cohort of independent jewellery designers.”

General entry to the show is free and tickets must be booked in advance through Eventbrite. Guests can also upgrade to a VIP ticket, which includes a glass of wine and goody bag (from £15) or a AAA Pass (from £80), which will give guests all the benefits of the VIP ticket as well as complimentary tea and coffee both days and access to the otherwise invite-only VIP party and unlimited entry to the event’s series of popular talks. All talk tickets are charged separately (from £10).

Noor Shamma

Zeemou Zeng

Jewellery Cut Live Fuli Gemstones

Libby Rak

Nicola Souelias

Links to more event information, including tickets, opening times, a full list of jewellers and other key details can be found via the NAJ’s ‘Whats on’ guide. visit naj.co.uk/whats-on

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Watch News

The Jeweller

Time Passages 01: TAG Heuer

04: Maurice Lacroix

TAG Heuer’s growing collection of Connected watches now includes three new models with new colours and styles… plus high-tech functionality. Following the launch of the third-generation Connected and the Connected Golf Edition, these models introduce new looks and materials: two steel cases with oceanic blue ceramic bezels and one ultra-lightweight sandy titanium case.

The Aikon Venturer collection has been expanded with two new models, created with a common base but different aesthetics. The bold, modern bronze and brown ceramic version and the sporty-chic gold and steel model with blue dial. In steel or bronze, its surfaces are satin-finished, while its edges are polished. The bezel’s six arms have a functional role – extending beyond the ceramic bezel so it can be easily grasped and rotated. The arms are engraved with 10-minute intervals, making the Venturer a genuine tool watch.

02: Omega Cutting-edge style and innovation are central to the James Bond story. Fittingly then, Omega introduces a brand new Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond Numbered Edition, offering plenty of high-tech details. The platinum-gold 42 mm case has a platinum-gold plate on its side, engraved with each special edition number. The leather strap’s polished-brushed buckle is also in platinum. Other features include a black ceramic bezel ring with a platinum diving scale in positive relief, and a black enamel dial, with a spiralling gun barrel design in 18ct white gold.

02

03: Festina – Calypso 01

Joining the wearable revolution is the Festina group with the addition of the smartband Calypso SmarTime. The six-model collection pairs a youthful and fun spirit with practicality – plus the market’s biggest screen in this segment (1.14”), allowing clear display of all functions, with a customisable interface. The silicone strap is interchangeable with an additional strap included with each band. Activity monitoring sits with health check and well-being tools like blood pressure, heart rate and sleep monitors and guided-breathing exercises.

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Watch News

Autumn 2020

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Watch News

The Jeweller

Time Passages 05

06

08

07

09* 08: U-Boat

05: NOMOS German watch brand NOMOS is celebrating 175 years of Glashütte watchmaking with a limited edition of its classic Ludvig model. Alongside the hand-wound version with the NOMOS Alpha caliber (Ludwig), there are two versions with innovative automatic calibers from: DUW 3001 (in Ludwig neomatik 39) and DUW 6101 (in Ludwig neomatik 41 date). All three models are regulated as a chronograph would be.

06: Festina SmarTime The Festina group consolidates its place in the smart watch segment with the new SmarTime line: three female stainless steel models, one with CZs on the bezel, one with a rose PVD finish – with and without CZ detail. The stylish straps include: denim, red and black padded leather and crocodile print. Each model includes two exchangeable straps. SmarTime has features for permanent connectivity, a customisable dial and many monitoring functions.

Italo Fontana has launched the professional dive watch, U-Boat Sommerso, in a Bronze version – resistant to seawater and to corrosion, harder than stainless steel and iron combined, often used in the arms industries. A nod to antique diving equipment is evident and emphasised by the natural oxidation of the material of the 46mm case, which creates a naturally aged, often unique look.

It features a rotating unidirectional bezel with calibrated markers every five minutes interspersed with numbers every 10 minutes from 10 to 50.

09: Obaku The Danish watch brand has introduced the world’s first 4.9mm thin watch with a wooden top ring. The Trae and Trae Lille collection is a fusion of warm wood and high-quality industrial materials. The ultra-thin case, scratch resistant sapphire crystal and stainless steel build is complemented by the wooden ring created from sustainably harvested sapele wood – a distant cousin of mahogany, that is in a light and a dark shade.

11

07: Lotus Lotus breaks into the smartwatch sector with Lotus SmarTime, a collection of 19 watches in three different styles, all complementing the on-trend, urban vibe of their analogical namesakes. Available in a minimalistic version with a 1.22” screen, a more tech version with a 1.54” screen (both with silicone and Milanese strap options) and a sporty one with a 1.3” screen on a steel or leather strap.

An additional strap is offered with each model.

10

Watch News 12 10: Doxa In 1967, the brand established in Le Locle introduced a revolutionary diver's watch, the first ever to look past black or white and go for colour, with an orange dial that was much easier to read and more practical in the darkness of the deep. New for 2020, the stainless steel Sub 300 COSC comes in six dial colours with matching rubber straps.

11: Junghans The perfect colours for the new max bill Kleine Automatic are inspired by the laws of nature, while the watch’s purist design is based on the original concepts of Bauhaus designer Max Bill. The case-size for the Kleine Automatic is a return to the original max bill watches: for the first time, Junghans is offering an automatic version with a diameter of 34mm; precisely the size of the original watch from 1961.

13

12: Rado Last year Rado launched a partnership with Les Couleurs Suisse, the organisation exclusively mandated by the Foundation Le Corbusier, to license the designer’s original palette of architectural colours. With the True Thinline Les™ Le Corbusier, Rado has produced a unique palette of nine limited edition high-tech ceramic watches. Each represents one of the colours from the nine groups in the colour palette: cream white, iron grey, ultramarine, yellow, pink, orange, greyed-green, pale sienna and grey-brown.

14

13: Raymond Weil The new models in the Toccata line of women’s watches feature an ultra-classic rectangular case with a chic and elegant 1930s retro style. Available in steel, yellow or twotone PVD gold, set with or without diamonds and with a calf leather, alligator print strap.

14: Hublot The limited edition Big Bang Unico Sky Blue model says holiday – whether Mykonos, Ibiza or St Tropez. Created in satin finish ceramic, the fresh, laid-back sportiness is complemented by a white Velcro fabric strap (with an alternative white and sky blue rubber strap included).

Meanwhile the Big Bang Millennial Pink in aluminium is a gender-fluid muted, pale, dusty pink.

15: Edox 15

The Swiss watchmaker has given a 21st century twist to its 1960s dive model, Delfin. The Delfin Mecano’s makeover includes a skeleton dial and movement, exposing some of the automatic calibre 853. Super-LumiNova coating on the hands ensures that a clear display however deep the dive.

A screw-down crown and double O ring seals allow the watch to function at 200m.

16: Certina

16

The latest DS PH200M model has a ceramic bezel and sapphire crystals front and back; its movement features an anti-magnetic Nivachron™ balance spring for improved resistance. In keeping with its predecessor, the new model ensures water resistance to 200m. The stainless steel case has a convex rotating bezel in dark blue ceramic with a gold-coloured scale. The NATO strap can be replaced by a Milanese bracelet or calfskin strap.

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Watch News

The Jeweller

17

Time Passages

18

19

20

17: Zenith Zenith has revisited its iconic Pilot’s Watch to offer modern instrument utility with retro analogue charm. The Pilot Type 20 Rescue and Chronograph Rescue has a stainless steel case with slate-grey sunray dial, with oversized Super-LumiNova® Arabic numerals. The rugged model is complemented by an aged black calfskin leather strap, recalling classic shearling leather flight jackets, with rivets, titanium pin buckle and a distinctive tab inspired by those seen on vintage pilot helmets.

18: Emile Chouriet @ Mode9 The new Fair Lady Lotus Red offers a literal rendition of the mystical red lotus flower – in China a symbol of truth, kindness and beauty. The dial features a three-dimensional motif depicting the flower, with a deep red colour and gradient effect darkening towards the edges. Each hour marker holds a brilliant cut diamond, while the hands mimic leaves and the crown and lugs of the 29.2mm stainless steel case are inlaid with Swarovski crystals.

19: Hamilton The latest Hollywood partnership from Hamilton is the brand’s biggest yet – a collaboration with the production team behind Christopher Nolan’s latest film ‘Tenet’. Special features were required and the resulting watch – based on Hamilton’s BeLOWZERO – has inspired a limited edition (888) model in lightweight titanium with blue or red-tipped second hand as a nod to colours in the film.

20: Bremont It’s 10+ years since the first Bremont Martin-Baker (MB) watch was released; a unique piece for pilots that had ejected using Martin-Baker ejection seats. The new MBII models are a natural design evolution – the core principles and rigorous testing programme unchanged. The white and black dial models have been refined and a new blue dial has been added – with bolder, more readable hands, more contemporary numerals and a cleaner look without the day function.

Watch News… retail Laings Launches New Social Platform Glasgow-based jewellers Laings has launched a new social platform, Laings Watches, to share its love of watches and to help its audience to stay ahead of the curve. Described as a ‘Platform for You’, @LaingsWatches on Instagram showcases a range of luxury watches, offering insights, news and captivating stories.

Stuart McDowell, Laings’ retail director commented: “We have an elite portfolio of luxury watch brands and have access to incredible content and visuals. Laings Watches allows us the opportunity to share our appreciation of these works of art.”

Everything ‘watches’ will be shared, from ground-breaking innovation from a luxury brands, to an exclusive first look at the Pre-Owned Collection or how-to demonstrations from watch experts. The platform allows Laings to connect with watch enthusiasts on a more personal level. Their followers are encouraged to collaborate with them and engage with the content, building a community of watch fans, and giving them a place to connect with one another.

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NAJ Voices

The Jeweller

There was no real chance that Trevor Davis would grow up to be anything but a fine jeweller. Aside from the fact that it’s written in his DNA, the clues were all there… as Belinda Morris learned.

Called to the Bench “Making jewellery is something I always wanted to do. My father was a jeweller and I used to spend all the time I could in his workshop, watching him and making things.

I loved the tools – on my seventh birthday he gave me my own set and I still use some of them today.”

Trevor was keen. At around the same time he also started to receive books on jewellery as gifts:

“I still have my earliest one on how to make jewellery – I don’t need to use it anymore, but it’s my bible; it will never leave my house,” he says.

T

revor could not have wished for a more perfect and inspiring role model than his father, Keith Davis.

Having arrived from Jamaica on the Windrush in the 1960s, the young – but already very experienced – jeweller went on to become the head designer at David Morris, who at the time was based in Hatton Garden. When the atelier moved to Mayfair, Keith became the first black jeweller on Bond Street… and also the first black member of the Goldsmiths’ Company. Now living in New York, Mr Davis Senior’s craftsmanship led to creating specialised pieces for a number of American jewellers, including Harry Winston.

However, his jewellery journey on arriving in 1960s London was far from smooth. “Overt racism was rife and it was very bad; he had a horrid experience,” says Trevor. “But my mother was a doer; she fought to break down barriers and she used fashion connections that she had to get an introduction to David Morris. She actually took dad’s jewellery to show him. Dad got the job, but he wasn’t convinced that his treatment there would be any better than he’d received before… she forced him to go! David had dad’s back – he saw the talent and skill.”

Trevor’s mother, who came to England from Trinidad, was a successful fashion designer, so the creative world was bound to beckon.

And while his skills as a craftsman may have come from his father, he arguably has his mother to thank for the resilience and determination that have led him to work for the esteemed likes of John Donald, Theo

Fennell, Van Petersen… and also David Morris. Reaching this point has not, however, been easy for him either.

Racial troubles in the 1970s drove Mrs Davis to take her children back to Trinidad, where, in a workshop, Trevor learned jewellerymaking skills from the ground up. “We were given an amount of metal on a Monday and had to have the work finished on Friday ready to be delivered to a customer on Saturday. It had to be perfect or you had to start again – it was real on-the-job training,” he explains. “Caribbean jewellery has a very specific look – bold and up-scaled. But Trinidad is a mix of black African and Indian people, so we also made fine, traditional pieces, especially filigree.”

After 13 years, at the age of 19, Trevor returned to London, bringing his comprehensive jewellery-making skills with him. “I got a job working for a jewellery shop in Hounslow; I was making everything that they sold – they didn’t have to buy any stock,” he says. “But I was working from eight in the morning until eight at night and not being paid a living wage. They took huge advantage.” He was, and is still, in no doubt that the colour of his skin was a factor. It was a dire situation… and then Mother Nature intervened. Or, as Trevor puts it: “God moves in mysterious ways… I became ill and ended up in hospital. It took me two weeks to recover and when I went back to work my job had been given to someone else!”

It was a hard lesson learned which prompted him to take a short course in business

NAJ Voices

Autumn 2020

management: “I wanted to familiarise myself with the rules and regulations of employment, so that it didn’t happen again.” Through the Prince’s Trust scheme Trevor also had the great fortune to be mentored by the (now retired) gem dealer Marcia Lanyon. What began back in 1993, when Trevor made the decision to become self-employed, is still in place today: “she’s always there for me for business advice; we talk almost every day – she’s wonderful!,” he says. Unsurprisingly he’s extremely enthusiastic about mentor schemes, as well as apprenticeships “as the best way to become a hands-on jeweller”.

Today Trevor has found his niche. “It’s always been fine jewellery for me – it’s what I grew up with, I need to work at the bench. Any piece that I am working on has to have finesse – I’m a perfectionist,” he explains. “Because I have spent so many years making whatever the customer wants I will make anything; there are no barriers – there’s nothing I wouldn’t touch!” While his

Dad had the worst of it in the 1960s and ‘70s – every 10 years it gets a little easier because people like him opened doors and made it easier for us. In turn my generation have made it easier for younger jewellers and what’s happening now with the Black Jewellers activism means that the next generation will have it better still.

website offers ready-to-wear pieces, most of his business is word of mouth – having been described as the best jeweller in Trinidad has certainly helped.

The fact remains however, that being a black jeweller comes with ‘issues’. “There’s a lot of racism in the trade – black jewellers don’t get the jobs and the promotions that they deserve,” he says, echoing the belief of many in the black jeweller community.

“A lack of role models is given as a reason why, for young black jewellers, getting into the trade is difficult. But we’re not given

the chance to become role models.” Bias in interviews is common, he asserts, having himself been turned down for a job that he had on paper and over the phone, only to be told it had gone once he was face-to-face with the employer.

“We’re not living in an ideal world,” he adds, “and even though I’m where I want to be now, racism in one form or another is an everyday thing for me. I don’t get the recognition that I deserve. I was angrier about it when I was younger, but at 50 I’m exhausted by it. We’re all exhausted.

Trevor agrees that anyone starting out in the industry will probably struggle to begin with. “But if a black person and a white person make the same thing, the black person has to work harder to make it even better. We have to prove ourselves – push things over the boundaries,” he explains.

“I’d like the industry to remove the barriers and it has to start at the top so that there is fairness for everyone. I’m ready to be a role model, to help by giving advice to young talented black kids so they can get on the ladder, as Marcia did for me. But now that I’ve been let in the door, it’s closed behind me – so how can I help? The industry needs to give them some love.”

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NAJ News

The Jeweller

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Show Report

Autumn 2020

Jewellery Watch & Fashion at Autumn Fair @ Home Ti Sento

This month was due to see the first Jewellery Watch & Fashion event at the Autumn Fair, NEC, Birmingham.

Needs must however and on 8th and 9th September organiser Hyve Group delivered the virtual Autumn Fair @ Home.

Another development was the Product Showcase, giving brands the opportunity to take buyers on showroom tours, or simply talk through their latest collection – a chance to submit a five-minute video to be shown to buyers during a sector-specific time slot. Sector categories included: The Gift Showcase; The JWF Edit and Design & Source Showcases.

Franck Herval at SL Designs

An exclusive content programme allowed access to current industry intel, trend insights, peer-to-peer panel sessions, and

Hyve’s virtual forums (Pure, Moda and Scoop are included in the line-up) are a key part of the company’s ‘Refuelling Retail’ initiative – non-commercial events allowing existing customers to participate at no additional cost, aiming to connect the industry this autumn as all national and international retail trade exhibitions had to be cancelled.

Dganit Hen @ SL Designs

Sea Gems

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ringing together the key elements of what makes the Autumn Fair ‘in real life’ a key retail trade show, Autumn Fair @ Home provided industry insights, as well as a first-hand look at the latest products, trends and collections. The exclusive virtual forum was designed in close communication with the show’s brands and regular buyers to cater to the needs of the industry.

have to offer. The Virtual Showrooms offered brand line-ups across the Autumn Fair website. Buyers were able to take a virtual tour via look books, video content, editorial and brand imagery.

more. Among the line-up were trend experts Colour Hive and Trend Bible and key topics of discussion included the state of play for independent retailers, colour and trend intelligence, changes in consumer behaviour during and post-lockdown and the importance of local retail.

Autumn Fair @ Home also hosted brands from across the home, living and gift sectors including Jewellery & Watch and Fashion (JWF). Dedicated Virtual Showrooms gave buyers an accessible way to discover new names and see what their current partners

Julie Driscoll, UK regional director said: “Our market-leading shows are a vital cog in UK retail, our physical shows are places of discovery and dynamic environments where business is done – we want our virtual forums to offer a similar environment. There is no doubt that COVID-19 has impacted retail this year, however, we believe that now is the time to help refuel retail and help our community to bounce back. We hope that the free forums that we are offering to our customers this September really help to kickstart product discovery.

“We are confidently planning for our February shows, and whilst Autumn Fair @ Home will offer a brilliant way to connect our community in September, it will also act as a great preview for what our retailers will see at Spring Fair, in February. We look forward to opening the physical doors… and being able to facilitate business finally being done in person again. What digital has shown us is that whilst it’s a great tool, there is no substitute for face-to-face meetings and being able to touch and feel product again.”

Did you know you can post your latest collections through the 'Find a Jeweller' tool for the trade and public to view? Visit naj.co.uk/find

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Shows

The Jeweller

Daphne Krinos

Goldsmiths’ Fair Internationally renowned as the ‘must visit’ fine jewellery and silverware event of the year, the Goldsmiths’ Fair 2020 has decided that digital is the safest option. It’s still not to be missed…

Flora Bhattachary, Tahitian Pearl and Diamond Earrings

Lukas Caspar, Hoop Earrings, Toumalinated Quartz

Shows

Autumn 2020

Shimell & Madden

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his year, from 24th September to 6th October, Goldsmiths' Fair presents the work of over 130 fine jewellers and goldsmiths from across the UK. Showcasing everything from engraved signet rings to brooches that might be described as mini sculptures and earrings crocheted from fine wire and embellished with diamond beads.

For 2020 Goldsmiths' Fair might be going digital, but there will still be opportunities to view and buy work from the best contemporary makers, as well as virtual oneto-one studio visits, demonstrations, talks, exhibitions and a virtual tour of Goldsmiths' Hall. The Fair will provide an online platform for visitors who ordinarily attend the live event at the Goldsmiths’ Hall in the City of London, as well as to new global audiences.

Exhibiting for the first time is jeweller Sian Evans whose brightly coloured kinetic earrings are inspired by Alexander Calder mobiles. Established maker, Christopher Thompson Royds immortalises the flowers found in our hedgerows and verges in 18

Christopher Thompson Royds, Natura Morta Cornflower Necklace, Gold and Enamel

carat gold, while Castro Smith reinvents the ancient technique of seal engraving to create stunning illustrative work. Recent graduates will show new work mixing precious and non precious materials, recycling gold and silver and playing with shape and texture.

The theme for Goldsmiths' Fair 2020 will be recycling and reimagining existing pieces. The recycling of precious metals is a tradition that goes back thousands of years – gold, silver and platinum can be smelted down and gems hold their intrinsic value and can always be reset.

Following the trends of slow fashion, consumers are increasingly interested in the possibility of working with a jewellery designer to remodel their existing pieces.

An unfashionable ring, a single earring or a brooch with a broken clasp can be reworked, keeping the intrinsic sentimental value but transforming it into something more wearable and up to date. Jewellers like Disa Allsop, Flora Bhattachary and Shimell and Madden are making a name for transforming heirlooms into something that is worn not locked away.

Mirri Damer, Drift Ring, Gold and Sapphires

Jacqueline Cullen, Galactica Dark Matter Explosion Earrings

Sorrell Bay Agate Diamond and Tourmaline Cluster

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Shows

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Disa Allsopp

Emily Kidson

Goldsmiths’ Fair Sarah Herriot Mirage Ring

Castro Smith

Nina Bukvic, Diamonds, Saphhire,18ct Gold Ring

Sian Evans Wisteria Earring

Shows

Autumn 2020

Teri Howes

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irtual displays will highlight brooches drawn from Goldsmiths' Collection. From ancient times, a brooch was an emblem of authority, wealth and power which spoke of cultural connections and social status.

Before buttons or hooks, a brooch or pin was the only way to fix and drape textiles to the body. Brooches continue to fascinate and challenge contemporary makers as what renowned jeweller and sculptor Wendy Ramshaw called ‘a portable art form’. Contemporary makers specialising in brooches include Louise O'Neill, Emily Kidson and Romilly Saumarez-Smith.

In challenging times, Goldsmiths' Company continues to support small-scale artisans, age-old skills, quality craftsmanship and trade, as it has done for the last seven centuries. Exhibitors use exceptional handmaking skills to create their pieces, applying techniques that have been passed down over hundreds of years. All makers exhibiting at Goldsmiths' Fair are chosen through a rigorous selection process, which ensures the highest standards of both materials and craftsmanship.

Louise O'Neill

Ingo Henn, Green Tourmalines, 18ct Yellow Gold, Diamonds, Enamel

Visit: goldsmithsfair.co.uk

Maya Selway, Bespoke Earrings

Romilly Saumarez Smith, Agate, Silver, 18 Carat Gold, Pearls, Diamond Beads, Sea Urchin Spine Ends

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Book Reviews

The Jeweller

very contemporary pieces made their way into the Klosterman collection.

Shaun Leane Published by ACC Art Books.

Curated and with a foreword by Shaun himself, this lavishly illustrated tome – too huge and handsome to be a mere ‘book’ – includes in-depth studies by jewellery experts. Their words open up the world of Leane – his first steps into the industry, his inspirations, collaborations and innovations.

This record of his career celebrates the 21st anniversary of his jewellery house. It’s also a heartfelt tribute to his friend and long-time collaborator fashion designer Lee Alexander McQueen; many of the book’s amazing images are from McQueen shows.

Fine jewellery specialist Joanna Hardy reflects on this collaboration, weaving the first chance meeting into Leane’s story, from early aesthetic sensibilities in north London, to apprenticeship, success and acclaim in Hatton Garden and beyond. By 1997 he was working on six shows a year – two for McQueen’s own line and four for Givenchy (while McQueen was creative director). In 1999 Leane established his own eponymous brand.

Claire Wilcox, V&A senior curator of Fashion, delves deeper into the work that Leane created with McQueen. The extraordinary pieces – often for the whole body – are described in deconstructive detail; the processes of concept, creation and fitting for a show. One model explains: “Wearing that coiled corset forced me to stand up… to be present… It’s very commanding.” Leane’s relationship with McQueen allowed his own originality to flourish.

Jewellery writer-historian Vivienne Becker discusses Leane’s contemporary work of

‘modern classics’. With his own collection “his style emerged fully formed: a fusion of traditional, meticulous craftsmanship and conceptual modernity”. Cultural and historical references combine with an avante garde spirit for his distinctive, provocative, romantic style. Long, slender ‘Tusk’ earrings exemplify Leane’s vision of today’s woman as “a warrior, romantic, strong yet vulnerable.”

The 250+ beautiful images are testament to this vision.

Simply Brilliant Artist-jewelers of the 1960s and 1970s Edited by Cynthia Amnéus D. Giles. In association with Cincinnati Art Museum From late Autumn this year, until February 2022, museums in Antwerp, Pforzheim and Cincinnati will play host to ‘Simply Brilliant’ – a celebration of around 200 one-of-a-kind pieces of jewellery from the collection of Kimberly Klosterman. The 1960s and ‘70s were a period of “rebellion and intense cultural change in jewellery” – individual and non-conformist, this was a new approach to adorning the body and the jewellery you wore said much about your interests and views.

Central to the shift in ideas was the 1961 International Exhibition of Modern Jewellery (1890-1961) organised by the Goldsmiths’ Company and the V&A. This book explores that groundbreaking show (which went on to be Goldsmiths’ Fair) and its influence on major jewellery houses like Boucheron, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. Some of their

As did jewellery by UK-based artist-jewellers Andrew Grima (a favourite of The Queen and Princess Margaret), John Donald, Gerda Flockinger, Laurence Graff, Arthur King and David Thomas – joining designers from the US and across Europe. Essays on subjects like ‘The Art of Fashion & Jewellery’ are followed by a beautifully illustrated catalogue of the exhibition, each designer’s career, inspirations and style outlined in detail and in turn.

The Circle and the Line The Jewelry of Betty Cooke By: Jeannine Falino and Eleanor Hughes D. Giles. In association with The Walters Art Museum This book accompanies a retrospective of almost seven decades of work by internationally acclaimed, Baltimore-based jewellery artist-designer Betty Cooke. An ‘”icon within the tradition of modernist jewelry” Cooke’s guiding principle is ‘less is more’; her pieces are described as wearable, minimalist sculpture – expressed through lines and angles.

The foreword points out that she is “less concerned with crafting… tokens of power and conspicuous wealth… her artistry is rooted in a relationship between abstract form and body”. Deceptively simple, her jewellery often uses mixed materials: base metals with tubes of gold and pearls, gold with a pebble and a diamond or silver with bone or ebony.

The book features a full-illustrated checklist, “Reflections” by leading patrons and collectors of Cooke’s work, an illustrated time-line, a selected bibliography and a list of collections containing pieces by Betty Cooke.

Fibre

NAJ News

Autumn 2020

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Industry Profile

the Last Word... goes to

This May Richard Fox, MD of Fox Silver, was made Prime Warden of the Goldsmiths’ Company – the first in the Company’s history to take office virtually, via video conference.

Please tell us about Fox Silver.

Fox Silver is a design-led goldsmithing, silversmithing and fine jewellery manufacturer; Serena, my wife and graduate of Camberwell School of Arts, designs and makes the fine jewellery. The business began after I completed my Master of Design at the RCA in 1981 with a tool kit and a lot of ambition as a sole trader in Clerkenwell. In 1982 I moved to Kennington and in 2005 to a factory in Croydon; expanding over the years to supply global clients. We use traditional skills and engineering alongside CAD design, computer-operated milling, engraving and rapid prototyping. Another speciality is precious metal plating and electro-forming.

Our clients include Formula 1, Rolls Royce, Pernod Ricard and Lambeth Palace – I’ve worked with some for 36+ years; we’re all very proud to continue these partnerships.

What drew you, in 2005 to become a Goldsmiths’ Company Liveryman?

It had never been on my radar, however, my contribution to various committees must had signalled that I might consider joining the Livery. I was immensely flattered and accepted in September although when the Freeman’s Party arrived in October I’d not been invited… why? I was informed, as a Liveryman, I’d have to be invited by a Freeman – didn’t see that coming!

How does someone become Prime Warden and what does this role mean to you?

I never set out to become Prime Warden – it just happened. I was asked by the then Prime Warden, Michael Galsworthy, if I’d consider joining the Court of Assistants.

I’d sat on the Technical and Training

The Jeweller

Richard Fox

Committee and later, as an Assistant, moved on to vice chair and then chair of the Craft & Industry Committee alongside vice chair of the Trustees of the Goldsmiths’ Centre.

I take my role as an Assistant very seriously as a spokesman for the trade and designer makers. From 1996 I was a founder member of what is now Contemporary British Silversmiths. I was initially daunted by the Assistant role, let alone Prime Warden; the tomes of paperwork added more gravitas.

However, serving as a Warden for three years was a very useful experience. After all I am now the very first Virtual Prime Warden – what an honour… although perhaps not for all the right reasons!

As Prime Warden, how involved are you with the Company’s many committees?

I’ll be chairing the Court of Wardens and Assistants – a ‘global’ overview to the running of the Company and its activities.

At Fox Silver it’s been challenging – markets and conditions fluctuate and Covid-19 is a global crisis, with ramifications for us all.

Fortunate I have a very diverse portfolio so we continue to design, manufacture and export commissions within the UK and globally. One can either capitulate or find new opportunities in ways of working.

What has been and will be your focus during your year in office?

I’m deeply passionate about our world-class industry and will do what I can to support it during my time as Prime Warden.

We’ve set up the Blueprint Group, chaired by the Second Warden, Dame Lynne Brindley, with six members of the Court of Assistants, to lead the process of sharing ideas and producing a blueprint for change.

It’s looking at areas such as our heritage and assets; intergenerational change; training and education; diversity; charity; membership; our business processes; relations with the trade and Governance.

It’s about changing how we operate, to reflect that the world will be different, post

Covid-19, and we will have to be too. Any great institution only ever remains great by constantly changing.

We responded rapidly to the Black Lives Matter movement, with a strong condemnation of racism and a commitment to make the Company and trade more diverse and inclusive. We were already focused on the need to move ahead in terms of diversity, but recent events really concentrated our minds about doing more, and faster. Our public statement was a marker about what we’ll do to improve diversity, equity and inclusion, to which I’m personally committed.

We contributed towards trade support through the Goldsmiths’ Covid-19 Fund – £700,000 awarded in grants to almost 500 sole traders or micro-business owners; financial relief to some of the most vulnerable jewellers and silversmiths who couldn’t access government funding, certainly early in the crisis.

Operationally, everything has been conducted digitally and in some ways it’s far more efficient. However, one misses the friendship and fellowship of clients, colleagues and friends, which cannot be replaced. It’s heartening that, while we’ve all missed being together, we’ve adjusted quickly and pulled together in a way that’s truly representative of the spirit of the Goldsmiths’ Company.

NAJ News

Autumn 2020

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