Issuu

The mark of industry inspiration & information

Spring 2022

£7.50

The Power of Love Celebrate commitment with platinum, gold & diamonds

The Shows Must Go On Previewing face-to-face trade events

Introducing Very Peri Pantone Colour of the Year inspirations

The National Association of Jewellers

THE TH MARCH CLUB

Be Security Wise WITH TH MARCH & THE NAJ

Helping to protect you, your business and your employees An important TH March and NAJ initiative aiming to raise awareness, increase knowledge and improve security throughout the UK Jewellery trade.

Contact TH March or the NAJ to find out more! www.thmarch.co.uk/NAJ

www.naj.co.uk/securitywise

Opinion

Spring 2022

from The Editor week or so before Christmas. Frustrating as it is to have just a few days to gather as many examples of gem-set jewellery that more-or-less fit the chromatic bill, with the print deadline looming, it’s a task I really enjoy. For me, having a colour trend to focus on is a great starting point to a season, and I hope that Very Peri on page 29 provides inspirational food for thought.

appy New Year and welcome to The Jeweller Spring 2022! Does that have an upbeat, optimistic ring to it? I do hope so. It’s in this cheery and bullish spirit we deliver this, the first issue of the new year. Brimming with confidence and positivity, we’ve stacked the pages with colour, excitement and newness as we look forward to a season of collection launches, events and trade fair resumptions. The shows will go on! As is always the case when working on the content for the spring magazine, there’s a last-minute rush after I’ve waited impatiently to discover the Pantone Colour of the Year – traditionally announced a

“A spritely, joyous attitude and dynamic presence that encourages courageous creativity and imaginative expression.”

It might even be useful if you’re planning to attend the Jewellery & Watch Edit, which is now a key part of Moda at Spring Fair at the NEC Birmingham (6th to 9th February, 2022). On page 36, we reveal highlights from new collections launching at the show – a tempting cross-section of diamond and coloured stone fine jewellery collections, silver jewellery ranges, fashion lines and essential retail services. Starved as we all have been of face-to-face gatherings (and the huge value of online events notwithstanding), excitement is mounting for the chance to catch up with industry friends and colleagues again. As well as Inhorgenta Munich, Haute Jewels Geneva and the rescheduled Vicenzaoro, the CMJ’s Spring Event is back and finally able to celebrate its ruby anniversary. Check out all our previews in this issue.

“Spring Fair, the marketplace for gift, fashion, design and source, and which is home to Jewellery & Watch, takes place from 6th to 9th February at the NEC.”

We’re also anticipating the return of weddings – big-time – this year, and with that pleasing thought in mind, we’ve devoted several pages to sparkling celebratory jewellery (page 46), with a heavy emphasis on diamonds… of course. And on the subject of celebration, those of us lucky enough to be there are still buzzing from the frivolity and fellow feeling of the Federation’s Benevolent Ball, held (for the first time since the 1930s!) in the ballroom of the Grand Hotel Birmingham. On page 13, there are party pictures and details of the inaugural Chair’s Award winners. We loved the sumptuous venue so much that we already have a date in our diary to go back for this year’s bash. Huzzah! Until then, I literally cannot wait to see as many of you as possible whenever and wherever!

Belinda Morris, Editor

“The bridal market is growing very nicely… It seems there were loads of people waiting for the lockdown to finish before getting engaged.”

Inside this Issue Spring 2022

NEWS

8 10

NAJ News

The NAJ Summit 2022

The JET Management qualification

NAJ News

Industry News

Jewellery & Watch @ Spring Fair Preview

Professional Jeweller Awards NAJ members are big winners

Industry News Vicenzaoro kicks off the new season

Education

Book Reviews ‘Cartier & Islamic Art’ and ‘Diamonds’

The Platinum Jubilee Competition

PROFILE

The Chair’s Award and Benevolent Ball – pictures!

Education The latest JET Clarity & Success stars

The CMJ Spring Event

Steven Jordan FIRV – valuer

Haute Jewels Geneva show

Inhorgenta Munich postponed

Member Profile Ruth Mary Jewellery

The first UK face-to-face show of the year

Industry News

Member Profile

The Last Word… … goes to John Henn

NAJ News TRENDS

Pantone Colour of the Year

The Power of Love

Watch News

Introducing Very Peri

The National Association of Jewellers 10 Vyse Street Birmingham B18 6LT 0121 237 1110 www.naj.co.uk

Wedding jewellery – ever-bright

The latest timepiece releases

BUSINESS ADVICE

The National Association of Jewellers

Editor: Belinda Morris editor@naj.co.uk

Steering Group

Discussing professional and technical standards

Member Benefits

SecurityWise

JET Business Network

Take control of 2022

Advertising sales: marketing@naj.co.uk 07741 554 011

Designed & produced by: Senior Internet www.senior.co.uk 0115 838 9555

Staying cyber safe

Data… it’s gold dust

Printed by: HPA Print Ltd www.hpaprint.co.uk 07525 011 589

OPINION

From the Editor

The Chairman’s Foreword

Contributory writers: Adam Cook, Michael Donaldson, Ben Massey

Front cover image: Sternglas TickTockDepot info@ticktockdepot.co.uk Mobile: 07837 900281 Office: 01323 870092

The NAJ is responsible for producing The Jeweller and although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAJ does not accept liability, loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from opinions expressed by contributors. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisors. The NAJ accepts no responsibility for the content of any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries. The magazine is printed using vegetable based inks on FSC certified paper produced from sustainable sources

Put your business in safe hands

Empower your next store manager. Give them the essential practical knowledge to lead and deliver exceptional customer service.

Opinion

Spring 2022

Chair's foreword other queries that most commonly arrive on the NAJ compliance desk.

With a new year comes new optimism – but with the backdrop of sobering reality we’re now accustomed to. This is business in times of Covid.

eflecting on what was a positive 2021 for the NAJ, my three highlights were our continued support of members through the pandemic, the NAJ Summit finally coming to fruition and seeing students receive due appreciation and recognition at the Education Awards at Goldsmiths’ Hall in November. We have great expectations for 2022, especially in the realisation of our new strategy. We’re proud to be the Association for the entire sector, championing businesses that show the key values of Honesty, Integrity and Professionalism. But now, as we set our sights on evolving the Association, I know there’s a lot for the membership community to be positive about looking ahead.

With profit imperative for members’ businesses to be viable, the Better Business area of the website will undergo a major update to be a better reference for all segments wanting to make commercial improvements. As a tool, it will be more accessible. We will also review the benefits and services available to members, again to help all segments save money. We will continue to invest in the Find a Jeweller and Find a Valuer directories, as well as stretch the benefit and coverage of The Jeweller, which I feel is now reflecting the NAJ membership community better than ever. Finally, we cannot overlook responsibility. The activities and behaviours businesses should adopt to prove their responsibility to customers, employees and supporters are more important than ever. Many of us live and breathe this industry, so it’s vital we all look at things through a different lens from time to time. To note, this is just a small flavour of the practical inroads we are making; more introductions and improvements are also incoming. A large part of the strategy is inward looking, so the Association can build on its recent developments under the stewardship of a passionate executive and staff team.

The new strategy is intent on realising professional excellence and excellent professionals. To do this, we will use the key pillars of compliance, profit and responsibility for all to understand what’s needed, what’s wanted and what should be in place. Our compliance work starts with our membership documents. We will issue a major update to the Association’s disciplinary procedure and work through a priority set of NAJ documents representing Codes of Practice, starting with pricing and

The NAJ Summit 2021

I must again congratulate the three trade charities: The Goldsmiths’ Company Charity, the Silversmiths and Jewellers Charity and The Benevolent Society – they were all given the inaugural NAJ Chair’s Award at The Benevolent Society Ball in December (plenty of party pictures later in this issue). The rapid mobilisation and collaboration between each when it was really needed was heart-warming and lives long in the memory. I would also like to congratulate Kassandra Lauren Gordon, who received special recognition for her actions in the Black Lives Matter movement and its relevance to the trade. We recognise we have a way to go for true equality and diversity, but the NAJ National Committee is extremely supportive. For those that did attend the event at the Grand Hotel Birmingham, it was a joyous evening, and I suggest you mark your diary for this year’s ball, confirmed for Thursday 8th December, once again at the sumptuous Grand Hotel.

Gary Wroe NAJ Chair

Three trade charities won the Chair's Award

NAJ News

The Jeweller

Introducing the NAJ Summit 2022 If you were lucky enough to attend the first ever NAJ Summit last year, you’ll know exactly how much of a good thing this event is. Especially when getting together doesn’t happen quite so often right now!

eturning to the Staverton Estate in Northamptonshire – now under new ownership – the organising team has listened to the first-time feedback and made some helpful improvements to the event. First of all, it’s now going to be held in June. Holding the event in the summer means attendees can make the most of the venue with its extensive grounds and outdoor courtyard, when Covid is at its lowest, and at a friendlier time for retailers. The date for your diary is 10th to 13th June but take a look at the programme to identify the events best suited to you. Next, we’ve moved the Valuers' Conference forward to the Friday evening, avoiding unnecessary timetable clashes – you won’t have to choose between the valuer or retailer sessions but be able to enjoy both. Likewise, the Supplier Showcase is now just on one day, Sunday. With no sessions planned for Sunday afternoon, you can take in the Showcase at your leisure.

Sunday evening’s Gala Dinner will now include the NAJ Awards, previously held during December’s Benevolent Society Ball. The lively entertainment at the dinner was very well received in 2021, and it proved the perfect opportunity for networking (and the letting down of hair). Now with the NAJ Awards joining the evening, we anticipate more retailers will attend and also benefit from Sunday’s Supplier Showcase and the Retailer Jewellers' Congress the next day. Ben Massey, NAJ marketing director, said: “We learned a lot from the first Summit. You’ll see from the timetable that we’ve really listened to attendees’ feedback to make sure a great experience is had once again. We were delighted by the 2021 feedback overall, but we want to improve on this so more members benefit.” Another change to the event will be how people register when they arrive. Previously the registration desks were through a separate hotel entrance, but this time the team will greet attendees in the hotel reception to help make the check-in as stress free as possible. Due to the feedback, the team will also offer a secondary hotel for attendees who didn’t book in enough time to stay on-site. The sensible way to avoid staying off-site is to book your accommodation early (using the code NATI090622). The Supplier Showcase, taking place on the Sunday only, will also have a limited number (50) of retailer guest passes

available. These passes won’t be eligible for the Valuers’ Conference, Retail Jeweller’s Congress or the Gala Dinner, which you need to book, but guest passes will mean attendees can have lunch, visit the Showcase and enjoy marketing talks in the small Better Business Seminar Series. Short applications for the guest passes are required. Finally, and perhaps the most important change to the Summit, is the fees. Members' early bird tickets are priced at £375 (plus VAT) for the Valuers' Conference (Friday to Sunday inclusive) and £235 (plus VAT) for the Retail Jewellers' Congress (on the Monday), with further cost savings for Institute of Registered Valuers Members/ Fellows (IRV) and JET Business Network Group Members. After 5th May all ticket fees will increase by £50 (plus VAT) with a further final increase of £50 (plus VAT) for late bookings after 23rd May. Attendance at the Gala Dinner, which will feature the NAJ Awards, is firstcome-first-served, with tickets at £65 (plus VAT) per person and tables (for 10) at £585 (plus VAT). However, the Gala Dinner ticket can be combined with attendance to the Valuers' Conference and/or Retail Jewellers' Congress. The final date to book is Wednesday 1st June – no bookings will be accepted after that date. You can see all ticket options on the Summit's webpage.

NAJ News

Spring 2022

Want to register for the nine-hole golf competition? Get your name down early! The nine-hole golf competition is limited to just 16 participants and will take place on the Saturday afternoon, with the first tee at 2pm. To reserve a place, email events@naj.co.uk

NAJ Summit 2022 Overview Programme* Friday 10th June The Valuers' Conference 17:30-18:00

Main Presentation

18:00-23:00

Welcome BBQ / Relaxed Dining

Saturday 11th June The Valuers' Conference

What did last year’s attendees think? “As always a fabulous day with multiple takeaways that'll improve business.” ~ Hugh Potter “An educational day full of inspirational speakers giving us the motivation we need to keep going.” ~ Olivia Stewart-Stead “I will definitely be back. Some very positive ideas that I can take back with me AND some ideas that I now know I can ignore completely.” ~ Joy Barnard “Very well organised, I wish the masterclasses were longer (so much to see and learn!) A great weekend all round.” “All the workshops we attended were fantastic and very relevant to us as retailers.” “No other word than FANTASTIC!”

09:00-10:30

Workshop & Masterclass Series 1 (Masterclass 1a & 1b)

10:30-11:00

Tea / Coffee Break

11:00-13:00

Main Presentation

13:00-14:30

Self-service Lunch

14:30-16:00

Workshop & Masterclass Series 2 (Masterclass 2a & 2b)

16:00-16:30

Tea / Coffee Break

16:30-18:00

Workshop & Masterclass Series 2 (Masterclass 2a & 2b)

19:30-23:30

Valuers' Dinner

13:30-18:00

Gemstone Market

Sunday 12th June The Valuers' Conference 09:00-10:30

Workshop & Masterclass Series 4 (Masterclass 4a & 4b)

10:30-11:00

Tea / Coffee Break

The Supplier Showcase 09:00-18:00

11:00-12:30

Main Presentation

12:30-14:00

Self-service Lunch

16:30-18:00

Workshop & Masterclass Series 5 (Masterclass 5a & 5b)

19:00-23:30

Gala Dinner including NAJ Awards

Including, Find a Jeweller Masterclass and Marketing talks

Monday 13th June The Retail Jewellers' Congress

For more information on the NAJ Summit, including booking, visit: naj.co.uk/Summit Email events@naj.co.uk Call 0121 237 1110

09:00

JBN Welcome and Overview

09:15-10:30

Session 1 & 2

10:30-11:00

Tea / Coffee Break

11:00-13:00

Session 3 & 4 & 5

13:00-14:00

Self-service Lunch

14:00-15:00

Session 6 & 7 & Close

*Programme is subject to change at short notice

Education

Why the JET Management qualification is a vital key to creating a successful, first-class store manager.

Putting your business in safe hands W

hat element of your business has the most significant influence on customer satisfaction and loyalty? Your attention-grabbing marketing and visual merchandising may get people through the door, and your stunning jewellery offer will hopefully be cherished for generations, but if a superior in-store experience does not match these criteria, consumer satisfaction is always going to suffer. It’s a cliché for good reason, but a business is only ever as good as its people, and, for the retail trade, the store manager may be one of the most important employees in the whole organisation. The store manager is the customer-facing representative for your business, setting the tone for operations and the customer experience in-store. Most consumers are unaware of the influence of the store manager on their shopping experience. However, the effect of this key individual

ripples through every significant touchpoint, from staff training and morale to display and merchandising. The store manager is integral to staff training and retention, but where do they receive the education to thrive in this crucial and demanding role? First-hand experience can get a store manager so far, but their own training and development must underpin this experience for them to truly excel in the position. The best jewellery retailers understand this and regularly turn to the NAJ’s JET training to provide the education a successful store manager needs.

performance, improving morale and boosting store profitability on the way. In an age where staff retention is at its most challenging, the JET Management qualification gives store-managers-in-waiting the essential practical knowledge to learn how to hire the right staff and understand recruitment. Keeping and motivating your best staff is crucial to any successful business. Giving them the responsibility of such an aspirational position and the educational support needed to flourish ensures investment pays back a hundredfold. With dedicated modules on customer care and leadership, the JET Management qualification provides a rounded skillsbuilding education that every store manager requires to succeed. A great store manager can elevate a business for customers, staff and employers alike. Can you afford not to give your managers the best tools and knowledge to excel in this vital role? The Association’s head of education, Marie Garnett, concludes: “Our NAJ members understand the importance of training and education, which is why we have created a suite of qualifications that help all levels of retail staff on their jewellery journeys. The JET Management qualification provides the perfect foundation for a successful career for those with managerial aspirations. We want to empower store managers to be the best leaders they can be.”

The next jewellery leaders Whether you already have a store manager who would benefit from educational support, or a staff member earmarked for the role, the JET Management qualification is tailormade to train the next generation of jewellery managers. Students learn how to develop a successful team and manage their

Want to know more about JET Management and other JET courses? Visit: naj.co.uk/qualifications Call: 0121 237 1110 Email: JET@naj.co.uk

Spring 2022

The Platinum Jubilee Competition 2022

QUICK PROGRAMS

TO BOOST YOUR SKILLS

The British Allied Trades Federation (BATF) is commissioning a piece of silverware to commemorate Her Majesty the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee in June 2022.

he BATF, which represents around 2,500 members – predominantly small businesses designing, manufacturing and supplying jewellery, silverware and giftware – owns an unrivalled collection of silverware, built up since 1954. It started as a celebration of craftsmanship traditions for which our industry is famous, when technological advances threatened the continuation of skills passed down through generations. The Platinum Jubilee competition, with its Plant a Tree for the Jubilee theme, is open to UK-based designers and silversmiths, not necessarily members of a trade association. Designed and made in the UK, each entry must be sterling silver and hallmarked with the Platinum Jubilee mark. Winners must make, or have the item made, and delivered to the BATF by 5th May 2022. BATF President Andrew Hinds comments: “I’m really excited about the Federation’s competition for silversmiths to compete for the honour of designing a piece to commemorate Her Majesty the Queen’s forthcoming Platinum Jubilee. The theme is very timely and I’m sure will provide the ideal inspiration for the forest of talent across our industry to express their boundless creativity. I’m very jealous of the judges who will see all of the entries, but I know they’ll have a challenge choosing a winner as competition will inevitably be very strong.” All designs must be hand drawn, painted or CAD drawings on A4 and submitted with a completed entry form to arrive at the BATF’s offices by 17th February, 4:00pm. An expert panel of Federation Board members, practising silversmiths and British Silver Week organiser Gordon Hamme will judge the competition and announce the winner on 28th February, 2022. As well as becoming part of the Federation Silver Collection, the winning design will be shown at the NAJ Summit in June 2022. The winner will also receive a year’s free membership to the relevant BATF trade association, media coverage and £7,500 towards design, production and labour costs (£4,000 upfront). For full rules and conditions of entry visit: https://www.batf.uk.com/silver-competition

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NAJ News

The Return of the Grand Benevolent Society Ball as Trade Charities Honoured with Chair’s Award

For the first time in 70 years, The Benevolent Society returned to the opulent ballroom of the Grand Hotel Birmingham to celebrate with almost 200 trade guests and friends.

n 9th December, The Benevolent Society Christmas Ball, sponsored by the Parify Group, returned with fun and frivolity at its core. The jewellery trade members came together and generously dug deep to raise money for the charity, and then partied the night away. David Doyle, the organiser of The Benevolent Society Christmas Ball, said: “What a fantastic evening it was. Thank you to all attendees, sponsors and hotel staff for making the ball such a memorable occasion. To return to a setting with a proud history of hosting jewellers’ balls as far back as the 1800s, it was a delight to host so many friends in the trade. “The ball has always been about two things: raising significant funds for The Benevolent Society and attendees having fun and enjoying themselves. I’m delighted to say we achieved both of these and, in fact, exceeded expectations.”

NAJ News

Chair's Award Winners

Chair’s Award goes to trade charities The inaugural NAJ Chair’s Award, sponsored by Windiam, was fittingly shared between the three trade charities: The Goldsmiths’ Company Charity, the Silversmiths and Jewellers Charity and The Benevolent Society. The judging panel recognised their tireless work mobilising to support individuals and businesses that had fallen through the gaps of government financial support. The charities’ trade support – raising money from donations and golf days to gala dinners – is one to make the industry proud. The committed work of volunteers behind the scenes, giving their time and making crucial decisions, made a significant difference to people’s lives within the trade. Accepting the award on behalf of The Goldsmiths' Company was Andrew McGowan; Julie Griffin was there on behalf of the Jewellers and Silversmiths Charity and Gay Penfold accepted on behalf of The Benevolent Society.

The Jeweller

NAJ News

How can the charities support me? The Silversmiths & Jewellers Charity Grants are accessible to any current or previous professionals in the silversmithing and jewellery trades, whether in manufacturing, wholesale or retail, as an employee or self-employed. Evaluating every application individually and on merit, the trustees are clear there are no age bars. Two types of grants are available: first, a one-off payment to cover short-falls or complete purchases, for example, a wheelchair or new white goods you can’t afford, but need. Second, an annual grant to go towards basic living costs. More information: Visit thesjcharity.co.uk Email info@thesjcharity.co.uk Call

020 8265 9288

The Goldsmiths’ Company Charity

The Benevolent Society

The Goldsmith’s Charity Committee makes two sizes of grants. Large (up to £30,000) and Small (up to £5,000) with a focus on prisoner resettlement, youth and the ageing population. The charity also manages a 1327 Fund and a Global Majority Fund, as well as a Goldsmiths’ Covid-19 fund.

The Benevolent Society has two types of grant: a one-off payment for essential specifics, such as household items, or perhaps repairs, or even an education course, and also has a quarterly payment scheme to assist those most vulnerable and in need.

The 1327 Fund is a charitable giving initiative for Goldsmiths’ members, launched to offer more choice and greater flexibility for the giving of every goldsmith. Members can choose to give directly to young people, emerging talent and established makers working or aspiring to work in the jewellery, silversmithing and allied industries through the Members’ Industry Scheme (managed by The Goldsmiths’ Centre). The Global Majority Fund offers grants to existing projects or new ideas that facilitate an increase in the representation of people from the Global Majority in the jewellery, silversmithing and allied industries. Working in partnership with the Jewellery Futures Fund, the Goldsmiths’ Company Charity is looking for individuals representing themselves or established groups who identify as being from the Global Majority community and who want to see change in the industry. More information: Visit thegoldsmiths.co.uk/charity/generalcharity/overview/

Anyone in the industries that the BATF represents can apply for the grants and bursaries, no matter which part of their industry they represent (retail, wholesale or manufacturer) and each application is assessed on a case-by-case basis by the Society's Trustees. The Benevolent Society is currently looking for new Trustees to fill voluntary roles and anyone who is interested in learning more about working with the Benevolent Society as a Trustee is encouraged to contact Laura Banner. More information: Visit

thebenevolentsociety.co.uk

Email laura.b.banner@gmail.com Call

0121 236 2657

Please note, these are not the only charities in the jewellery sector to support you, the NAJ Educational Trust as well other organisations both in the jewellery sector and local bodies have grants you can apply for. For more information on other bodies, visit naj.co.uk/financial-support.

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NAJ News

Spring 2022

Kassandra Lauren Gordon

Overall Sponsor: Parify Group The Parify Group Ltd has many facets to its portfolio – lighting, retail design and e-commerce. Best known for being the industry standard of jewellery-focused lighting, the Parify Group is an expert in its craft.

Chair’s Award Sponsor: Windiam

The Chair’s Award judging panel, led by Harriet Kelsall and supported by Anna Blackburn, Lindsey Straughton and Mark Smith, collectively described their task as challenging due to the sheer number of high-calibre recommendations. Jewellery designer Kassandra Lauren Gordon was also highly commended for kickstarting much-needed conversations and actions over the past 18 months. Her open letter to our industry highlighted the inequality and racism in the trade towards black people. Kassandra created and delivered the UK Black Jewellers hardship fund, started a podcast for Black creatives and won a gold award in the equality and diversity category of the Goldsmiths’ Craft and Design Council awards. Speaking to attendees in the grand ballroom, Gary Wroe, NAJ chair, described Kassandra’s contributions as outstanding to better the industry.

Windiam sources and delivers an extensive selection of polished diamonds both to the world’s leading brands and jewellery chains, as well as smaller boutique shops. Leveraging its intergenerational expertise to turn rough into polished in an efficient, cost-effective manner allows Windiam to offer large, highquality stones at competitive prices.

Presenting the Chair’s Award, NAJ Chair Gary Wroe said: “All recommendations had been submitted because a person or company had gone above and beyond to help a person, project, workforce or community through what has been a challenging time. We were heartened by the significant number of recommendations that came flooding in, and we’d like to thank all those that took the time to put forward a recommendation. “The sheer number of recommendations demonstrates that there are many people out there that stood up and unselfishly helped others through the past two years. This is a great sign of how the jewellery community can and has pulled together. In truth, many of the people and businesses recommended could have been deserving winners of the award. “I’d personally like to see that sense of collaboration and support continue and grow for the benefit of the trade and the people in it.”

Save the date The Benevolent Society Ball 2022, which will again feature the NAJ Chair’s Award, has been confirmed for Thursday 8th December, 2022, once more at the Grand Hotel Birmingham. To register interest in attending, email laura.b.banner@gmail.com

Education

Jet Stars

Introducing the latest winners of the JET Clarity & Success Awards.

can do that.” Although we sell watches and diamond jewellery in our store, I always float around the diamonds more than the watches! During lockdown, I thought taking the JET course was the perfect opportunity to get a bit more knowledge under my belt. It also gave me a goal to work towards.

Emma Ruki, Chisholm Hunter (August) I started at Chisholm Hunter in March 2020 – my first introduction to the jewellery industry. I’d been working for six years on cruise ships in entertainment and needed a ‘land job.’ I love selling and thought “Yeah, I

The part of JET I enjoyed the most was studying the provided books; as I’m dyslexic, putting pictures to facts is really helpful! The most challenging for me was the actual writing – writing and spelling have always held me back. Putting words on paper in a way that isn’t simplistic, I find very difficult. It’s great the moderator praised my "impressive" final project on Tiffany & Co. I chose that brand because I think, growing up, you hear about that little blue box every girl wants, and I wanted to find out a bit

JET Certificate revealed the amazing world of jewellery that unites chemistry, physics, arts, history, psychology… I’m very grateful to my tutor, Mark Houghton, who was very helpful, supportive and inspiring during this journey.

Ekaterina Chetkova (September) Turning 40, full-time mum duties plus lockdown made me feel a bit lost. I wanted changes, challenges and new ways to express creativity. I found that in JET. I learned about JET from a diploma I noticed in a jewellery shop. I began with JET Essentials in October 2020, knowing nothing about hallmarks or diamond grading. The

Every topic and question made me not only learn new things but also challenge myself. The last part of the project – writing about the history of Russian Empire jewellery, Soviet period and modern designers (I love Vladimir Markin’s creations) was a breath-taking experience. It was difficult to stop myself from reading and writing, going deeper and deeper into details, examples, controversial viewpoints and resources. I have a passion for learning and can be quite (maybe too) meticulous. Being able to use resources not only in English but in Russian and Italian was a great help as was the basic practical experience in gemmology and jewellery making. Sleepless nights, accompanied by ‘80s music, took me back to my time at the university in Saint Petersburg. JET was inspiring, challenging and a joy.

more about where and how it came to life and the company’s beginnings. I learnt most about the designers Tiffany has worked with over the years, and still work with, and that it’s not just all about diamonds. I’m happy that my “comprehensive coverage” of the 4Cs was also praised. I’ve definitely become more aware of this aspect of diamonds since taking JET. Finding out how much the cut affects a diamond means I can now explain it to people buying diamonds. Learning about the science of diamonds has really aided me in educating clients I sit down with in store. JET has helped me – not just learning about diamonds but things I would never have thought of, like security. As I’m really new to the industry, these are the things I need to know! It’s also helped me be more confident when I’m talking to customers, be it about diamonds, metals or watches. I definitely want to do JET2.

Progressing through the course, I feel confidence in my theoretical knowledge, which also makes clients feel differently about the jewellery they’re buying or leaving for repair. I’m glad to learn more theory and practical things from my new colleagues at Clement White, a 100-year-old family-run jewellery shop, which I’d loved for a long time as a customer. The owners, the benchjeweller and my colleagues are outstanding professionals who’ve guided me in helping to make customers happy. It’s great to see people choosing an engagement ring or perhaps getting their emotionally priceless family jewellery back after repair. After a silversmithing course and other masterclasses I did alongside the JET – all great experiences – I need time to use it all at home. With more practical knowledge, I’d love to start a JET Diploma, hopefully with my tutor – it would be nice to impress him once more! My plan is to study jewellery design and create jewellery, first for friends and then customers. It sounds ambitious, but JET has shown me that determination, learning and putting your heart in everything can change your life.

Want to learn how JET qualifications can help your business? - Visit naj.co.uk/qualifications - Email JET@naj.co.uk - Call 0121 237 1110

Business Advice

Spring 2022

In the winter issue of The Jeweller, we shared a top line view of the Association’s new strategy, built on compliance, profit and responsibility. Homing in on compliance, we look at what the Professional and Technical Standards Group will deliver for the membership in 2022.

Setting the (NAJ) Professional Standard

“Now our work will make it crystal clear what members should be doing, backed by trading standards. This will altogether strengthen what NAJ membership means to the customer, as well as member companies themselves.” The themes for each code arrive from a combination of the NAJ’s in-house compliance officer, liaison with Trading Standards, the Centre for Effective Dispute Resolution and the representatives of the Professional and Technical Standards Group. All in all, a robust forum to benefit from. As previously noted, the group will first prepare documentation on the membership disciplinary process, then move to pricing. The pricing document, although largely based on legal responsibilities, will set the blueprint for how the format of the document will work and be communicated to the membership. The Association will then move to other topics to include hallmarking and disclosure.

The NAJ Customer Charter

ompliance (noun) is defined as the state or fact of according with or meeting rules or standards. In NAJ membership, many of those rules or standards are legal practice and others are simply sector specific. All members sign the Association’s Code of Conduct based on the values of Honesty, Integrity and Professionalism. This document covers the customer charter, the guiding principles and the disputes procedure. This means the document sets the necessary standards you must uphold to remain a member of the NAJ. Why? Well, without complying to the Code, we have a problem. Or rather, long story short, you have no membership. The member logo gives your customer peace of mind that you follow the standards outlined in the document. That’s the power in the Association’s Find a Jeweller and Check a Member tool: live endorsement of a jewellery business to a customer. If you don’t directly link to your NAJ profile from your website, you might want to sooner rather than later, as well as display your membership logo at your most visible point and share what it means with your staff team.

So, what’s new? Sometimes standards evolve, and other times standards aren’t so simple to understand. Over the next 12 months or so, the Professional and Technical Standards Group will prepare accessible documents representing codes of conduct to help you understand your obligatory responsibilities as a member. Topics will include things like pricing, hallmarking and even disclosure. We will share all documents with every member and host them on a refreshed member document library for ongoing access. In addition, the Association will update its disciplinary procedure to ensure transparency and clarity should the Code of Conduct not be upheld. Barry Sullivan, chair of the Professional and Technical Standards Group said: “We need to be clear, here. We want to make it plain and simple to understand what responsibilities each member business has. I’d like to think that on the odd occasion members aren’t quite fulfilling what they should be, it’s duly unintentional.

When joining the Association, each member agrees to: 1. Act with Honesty, Integrity and Professionalism 2. Describe fully and accurately jewellery, watches and other goods and services for sale 3. Abstain from any conduct or practice that may mislead or deceive 4. Act responsibly and sustainably to support the NAJ’s commitment to the standards of the Responsible Jewellery Council 5. Deal with any complaints in a timely and fair manner and, in the event of dispute, clearly explain the NAJ procedure for mediation, providing the NAJ compliance officer’s contact details to facilitate a timely resolution 6. Cooperate fully with any enquiry to resolve any disputes and abide by the findings and decision

Member Benefits

The Jeweller

Use your NAJ membership to step into the new year with confidence in marketing, in business and at trade shows.

o say the last two years have caused uncertainty in the business world would be something of an understatement. Between the pandemic and Brexit, businesses have been constantly reactive as they try to adapt quickly to an everchanging world. While uncertainty remains in 2022, it’s time for companies to reclaim control – to be once again proactive with purpose. The jewellery community is always forward-thinking at the start of a new calendar year, but now it is more important than ever.

Make your network count For those in the know, the JET Business Network (JBN) was once the NAJ’s bestkept secret and one of the critical tools that dramatically helped accelerate commercial success. It’s common for business leaders to feel isolated, and, for many, the pandemic has magnified this isolation. Whether you’re a founder finding your way or a leader with both the benefit and burden of multiple generations behind you, wondering if you’re steering the ship in the right direction is an all-too-common concern. Finding a trusted community to share advice and offload business troubles is vital for leaders looking to take business to the next level. The JBN is such a community – a supportive network of like-minded business leaders with the collective experience and knowledge to help move your business forward. Created for retail jewellers and run by retail jewellers, the JBN is the support you never realised you needed.

JBN meetings provide a friendly and collaborative environment to discuss the important issues and opportunities jewellery retailers face. The group is supported by performance benchmarks, educational store visits, an online Q&A forum, and much more. JBN members are the voice of the network and its strongest advocates.

“If you’re an independent jeweller, I have to ask why you’re not a member of the JBN. If your response is either ‘time’ or ‘money,’ then you are just the type of person that will immediately benefit from the network.” Stephen Henderson, Stephen Henderson Ltd. With the world changing on a near-daily basis, finding a meaningful support network is vital for any business leader.

For more information on joining contact the JBN Facilitator, Michael Donaldson, on… Call: 07817 305 122 Visit: michael@thevalueinnovator.co.uk You can also read Michael’s regular column on page 60

Take control The show(s) must go on This year marks a full schedule of in-person trade fairs. Across Europe, the major jewellery shows are making their muchneeded comeback. Historically, the start of the year features a packed schedule of trade events in the UK and the rest of Europe. Familiar names already mark the jewellery calendar, returning in spring and summer. These shows will once again provide a perfect platform to do business for all sectors of the industry. Thanks to the Association’s close ties with the major shows, NAJ members can take advantage of benefits and discounts that

help businesses get the most out of the events. For example, Spring Fair returns in early February with a range of fresh changes and innovations, such as the official launch of Curated Meetings: short, scheduled meetings with qualified buyers. This is not business speed-dating, but meaningful meetings with a mutually expressed interest to do business. Crucially, Curated Meetings are also available to those not exhibiting at Spring Fair. It could be the ideal platform for many NAJ members, particularly with an exclusive 10 per cent member discount when booking a package of 10 meetings or more.

“It’s wonderful to see the return of in-person trade shows again in 2022. There’s no better

way to do business, whether you’re a designer, supplier or retailer. Building face-to-face relationships, seeing and touching products and gaining insight into the key trends for the year ahead is invaluable for all jewellery businesses. The NAJ is here to help you make the most of these events through our connections, exhibitor discounts and partnerships with the major trade shows around Europe.” Lindsey Straughton, Head of Communications and Industry Liaison Europe also sees the return of key trade shows, Vicenzaoro and INHORGENTA

Member Benefits

Spring 2022

Reaching the people that matter Marketing strategies are at the top of most people’s to-do lists at the start of a new year. They’re also one of the first things we abandon when the day-to-day realities of running a business take over. To start the year off on the right foot, the Association has a series of easy marketing wins for members. Are you stuck for content ideas? The NAJ’s specially created e-marketing templates are an excellent starting point. Simply edit and send directly to your customer mailing list, upload to your blog or share with your local print media. Each of the templates, designed by leading copywriter Lucy Cripps, is uniquely themed and packed full of marketing prompts and ideas to keep your campaigns fresh and engaging. Give your marketing a kickstart and quickly plan content for the key monthly milestones, including Valentine’s Day and the wedding season. All templates are available to NAJ members in the member resources section on the website.

can find your business, it’s essential you keep your profile up to date with your latest collections, company information and contact details.

The Association has invested heavily in driving traffic to its website and Find a Jeweller pages. With improved SEO and advice-packed consumer pages, the NAJ website has seen a staggering 4,000 per cent increase in page views over the past 12 months. This has translated into more eyes on the Find a Jeweller directory than ever before. To make sure potential customers

Finally, the NAJ’s Better Business portal is a treasure trove of knowledge and advice with handy guides and insightful NAJ Live webinars. The portal covers everything you need to do better business. The marketing sections provide actionable advice to instantly improve your social media, grow your customer base and help define your story.

Get the most out of your membership To learn more about the benefits mentioned or discover the full range of services and products, visit the NAJ website or talk to the NAJ membership team and start getting the most out of your membership.

Visit: www.naj.co.uk/benefits Email: membership@naj.co.uk Call: 0121 237 1110

of 2O22 MUNICH, with international business back on the agenda. For retail members, it’s a crucial way to get a first look at the must-have collections for their stores. For designers and suppliers, the international trade fairs provide the perfect opportunity to broaden their client base.

Keep up to date with the latest trade fair dates and news around the UK and Europe Visit: naj.co.uk/whats-on

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Industry News

Spring 2022

A chance to mix business with pleasure as the CMJ (belatedly) celebrates its ruby anniversary.

Curteis

CMJ Spring Event

Elements Gold by Gecko

Amore

Mark Milton

s we go to press, a few question marks hover above global trade shows and events. However, as the industry is itching to reunite and see life return to normal, we all remain optimistic. Shows must go on. It’s in this spirit that CMJ members are invited to join the buying group on 13th and 14th March 2022, at the newly refurbished Hilton Birmingham Metropole, for its Spring Trade Event. This will be a great opportunity to reunite with fellow members and (finally!) celebrate the CMJ’s 40th anniversary at a glamorous and entertaining black-tie evening event. Two years in the making, this promises to be a night to remember! “The event has already secured the commitment of our newly refined and market-leading supplier members, including those that have joined the CMJ since our last event – all primed and ready to showcase their latest products and deals,” explains a spokesperson for the buying group.

Coeur de Lion

Industry News

mong the suppliers attending will be Curteis, showcasing its vast range of chains, handmade pieces and the latest range of stampings/tags and beautiful lockets, pendants and popular gem-set pieces. Amore will unveil a fun, dynamic gold wire and coloured stone collection called Let’s Twist Again, and Continental plans to make a big splash with its Illusion range. Shaun Leane’s Rose Thorn collection will include brand new pieces, while Fei Liu Fine Jewellery has extended its bestselling collections – think Bubble and Magnolia – including with the pretty pastel Bubble necklace. Clogau’s Ripples line features pieces in silver with 9ct gold, set with white topaz.

The Jeweller

Clogau

Ti Sento Milano promises warm summer feelings, with blues, turquoise, malachite and 18ct yellow-gold plating leading the way. New shapes include cushion cuts and rectangular drops. Baroque pearls, pinks, pearl stud details, undulating rings and bracelets and a classic coffee-bean shape with an edgy vibe, together with simple new classics, make up the rest of the new collection. Meanwhile, Royal Selangor tempts buyers with an extension of its Phonos collection – mobile phone amplifiers featuring warm wood and richly textured metal. Phonos fits most mobile phones, and the device also allows charging cables to run through, so you can charge your phone while playing music or taking a phone call in speaker mode.

Fei Liu, Bubble necklace

Royal Selangor, Phonos

Ti Sento

Shaun Leane

Gemex

Sif Jakobs

UK 0800 1956771

| ROI 1800 625163

| info@curteis.com

w w w. c urt ei s . c o m

Industry News

The Jeweller

Two years after the inaugural show, Haute Jewels Geneva is back… and it’s grown!

Yoko London

Haute Jewels Geneva Mariani

Hans D Krieger

ounded by Michael Hakimian, CEO of Yoko London, the first Haute Jewels Geneva took place in 2019 and saw four jewellery brands (Yoko London, Roberto Coin, Sutra and Crivelli) join forces to create a new jewellery show “that broke the boundaries of traditional trade shows.” After being forced to cancel the event in 2020 and 2021, the show is back. From 30th March to 5th April, a collection of high-end jewellery brands will exhibit at the Fairmont Grand Hotel Geneva as Haute Jewels Geneva, and the original four have grown to 16. The leading brands showcasing their collections are Yoko London, Picchiotti, Hans D Krieger, Marco Bicego, Roberto Coin, Sutra, Crivelli, Bayco, Etho Maria, Stenzhorn, Mariani, Palmiero, Gorgoglione, Leo Pizzo, Verdi and Annamaria Cammilli. Each of the distinguished jewellery houses offers something unique, but they’re like minded in their approach to jewellery creation. They are artisans in their own field, combining high-quality materials with superior design to create spectacular haute jewels.

Roberto Coin

Haute Jewels Geneva promises “an intimate, luxurious environment for jewellery buyers and suppliers to conduct business – a concept that feels even more relevant following the restrictions imposed by the pandemic. With the ability to see each other face to face again, the dynamic event will combine the power, creativity and experience of the participating brands.” The 16 jewellery houses have participated in countless trade shows around the globe, and this collective experience has informed the Haute Jewels Geneva concept. Although the event has grown exponentially since its creation, one of its key aims remains to remove the formality from the traditional trade show experience, providing a relaxed atmosphere for both clients and exhibitors to discover exclusive jewellery designs. While maintaining the emphasis on quality brands in a luxury environment, it is hoped that the event will continue to evolve and grow. Michael Hakimian said: “We are thrilled that Haute Jewels Geneva will be returning in 2022. This unique show is a collaboration between 16 harmonious brands, bringing together their expertise to create a forwardthinking event that addresses the needs of the supplier and the buyer in our fastmoving world.” For further details and visitor registration, visit www. hautejewelsgeneva.com

Picchiotti

Trends

Spring 2022 Andre Michael, tanzanite

The Rock Hound, Chromanteq earrings with ametysts, druzy quartz and ceramic

Pantone Colour of the Year 2022 PJ Watson, tanzanite and diamond

So now we know, the hue we should all be talking about and celebrating – according to colour people Pantone – is Very Peri. No, nothing to do with peridot… instead think ‘periwinkle,’ says Belinda Morris.

Trends

Spring 2022

Ungar & Ungar, amethyst and ruby earrings

Pantone Colour of the Year 2022

Yaa Yaa London, quartz and druzy earrings

Kali Ma, amethyst ring

t’s a little confusing for jewellers, gemmologists and gemstone lovers generally, but PANTONE 17-3938 Very Peri is more of a pale lavender-blue, or, to be exact, “a red violet-infused blue hue.” And, as ever with the annual chromalogical decree, identifying coloured stones that resemble this shade (so new it didn’t exist in Pantone’s catalogue) is tricky. A little artistic license, with squinting and looking at gems in different lights, might be required… but it’s all about mood and, hopefully, inspiration. You might find many gemstones and gemset jewellery that give a feeling for Very Peri; here I’ve selected some that come close, including tanzanite, agate, amethyst, violet spinel, druzy… but iolite, Blue John, lavender fluorite, lavender-treated jadeite, enamel can all fit the bill.

Mishanto, violet spinel ring

Olive Young, Ouroboros

Trends

The Jeweller

Mark Milton, diamond and tanzanite drops

Pantone Colour of the Year 2022

t might be helpful to learn why Pantone chose this particular colour, and why now. They say it displays “a carefree confidence and a daring curiosity that animates our creative spirit,” and it “helps us to embrace this altered landscape of possibilities, opening us up to a new vision as we rewrite our lives. Rekindling gratitude for some qualities blue represents, complemented by a new perspective that resonates today, Very Peri places the future ahead in a new light.” It’s a lot to place on the shoulders of one colour (check out Pantone’s website for more detailed nuances), but more relatable is that it displays “a spritely, joyous attitude and dynamic presence that encourages courageous creativity and imaginative expression.” Very Peri also relates to the expanding popularity of the metaverse (Google it, I did) and colour trends in the digital world. According to one colour analysis website, periwinkle represents serenity, calmness, winter and ice. It can also, apparently, symbolise blossoming friendships, sentimental memories and everlasting love. Meanwhile, Jacob Olesen of Color Meanings says periwinkle is “easy to be around… doesn’t condone hate… put simply, is a role model.” On the negative side, he warns, “periwinkle is flighty.” Personally, I see that as a positive.

Lucy Martin, tanzanite studs

Ntinga, tanzanite rose cut slice

Trends

Spring 2022

Castro Smith, gold and ceramic

CW Sellors, sterling silver and Blue John

MB&F x Bulgari

Sheldon Bloomfield, amethyst and diamond ring

Sarah Alexander, blue lace agate Riptide Earrings

Advertorial

The Jeweller

Sierra Consultancy – CAD knowhow meets design empathy With a background in benchwork and design, Pooja Sahny of jewellery CAD CAM specialist Sierra Consultancy understands the challenges faced by her designer clients.

Tell us your journey – where did you train, then work, after graduating?

part of some great opportunities and formed strong partnerships.

My education was in Antwerp, Belgium. After graduating I was fortunate to gain work experience with a local goldsmith who taught me the practical way to make things at the bench… versus what I was taught in college. It was insightful to see what technical skills I needed to create my own collections. Everything was handmade at this point.

In 2019 I helped to write the 3D Design CAD brief for the Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design Council (GC&DC) awards and assisted as a judge. It was insightful to be on the other side, especially with my experience as a designer entering competitions and a finalist twice in Belgium. This event inspired me and brought me back to my roots. It was a great honour to be a GC&DC award judge in 2020 and then again in 2021.

I participated in numerous museum exhibitions, such as the Diamond Museum in Antwerp (now called DIVA) and competitions. Being a finalist for the Henry van de Velde Prijzen in 2004 for best product and the HRD (now AWDC) Awards ‘Diamonds are Fun’ in 2005 gave me the confidence to continue designing. In 2007, with technology becoming a big influential factor, I enrolled in the GIA campus in London for its Computer Aided Design course. Following certification I spent four years as a part-time designer in a Belgian family-owned diamond jewellery manufacturing company. We used numerous CAD software packages: ArtCAM JewelSmith, Rhino and 3DESIGN. My time there gave me a deeper understanding of the various stages of manufacturing and encouraged me to pursue CAD even further.

When did you first embark on a career in the jewellery world and what led to that? Having studied and worked in the heart of the Antwerp Diamond District in Belgium, I know there is no better industry than the jewellery industry. With my family also in the trade, it seemed only natural for me to follow this path. I originally trained as a silversmith, then, having gained a passion for metal forming, I pursued goldsmithing.

It was after this that I joined Gravotech (formerly known as Type3, the developer of 3DESIGN) as a sales and support manager for its software… and I gave up my benchwork.

When did you establish Sierra Consultancy and why? In 2019, after seven years with Gravotech, I set up Sierra Consultancy – an inevitablity. I wanted to be able to give back to an industry that has played a big part of my life, and at the same time broaden my horizons by offering my experience and take on project work and since that time I’ve been a

In 2020 I started working alongside HS Walsh & Sons to help distribute 3DESIGN CAD software. They are a great team and 2021 was a busy year. Hockley Mint joined our 3Design Partner list by becoming a service bureau, and this year the Jewellery Academy of Wales (JAWS) have been added to our list as a new educational institute. We also had the chance to work alongside Cooksonsgold on an exciting design project. Watch this space for more details about the project!

How has the jewellery industry changed for you (and others) since you’ve been in it? The jewellery trade 20 years ago is very different to what it is now. I grew up in a conservative environment where an Indian woman to hand make jewellery and build a career was quite unheard of. I fought hard to overcome challenges and setbacks and was often treated a certain way because of this. These preconceptions have made me who I am today. I understand the challenges of other designers that are in similar shoes, be it regarding ethnicity, gender discrimination or disability. My goal is to encourage, support and promote jewellers; make them aware of the range of opportunities that are available to help them become the best version of themselves. I feel more integrated in the UK industry than I did in Antwerp. Antwerp was lacking was a

Advertorial

Spring 2022

jewellery support network, and I have been very grateful to find this with the NAJ and my partners.

What was the appeal of working with 3DESIGN – over and above other CAD providers? 3DESIGN is perhaps lesser-known than other CAD software, mainly due to the fact that there are no illegal or cracked versions available on the market. All licences are official and come with official support and training. 3DESIGN has a strong network of clients and distributors worldwide that support each other. As distributors we take a similar approach with our clients – we provide them with training and support that suits their style and, most importantly, budget. I’m fortunate to have a great network of clients. Over lockdown we had many chats and we still talk regularly – they know they can reach out at any time. My advice to anyone looking to become a CAD jewellery designer is to choose a professional software you feel comfortable with, give yourself time to make mistakes and practice, practice, practice. These are the reasons why I chose to work with 3DESIGN. I believed in it, I understood it and have seen it mature over the years.

Does your career background help when it comes to explaining and selling the benefits of CAD CAM? Yes. I can now look back and see how far I’ve come. Like many bench jewellers, I was not the most tech savvy. I could write emails, use Facebook and Google, but to put my creations onto a computer… the software intimidated me. I remember thinking this makes absolutely no sense! Why would you call a tool Curve Sweeping and how do you understand your 3D views using planes and axis? Once I found my own logic, I applied this and it stuck.

I understand the initial frustration and overwhelming sensation of entering the world of CAD CAM. The one thing to remember is that your computer will not explode and that you have the ability to undo something! The reality is that many clients now want or expect a render (photo-like image) when they place a bespoke order with their local jeweller. It’s about taking that knowledge you have at the bench or importing sketches and turning them into a 3D finished looking model.

Would you say that there are still some/a few/many jewellery businesses out there who are reluctant to employ CAD?

levels of courses available: Beginners, Intermediate and Advanced. One-to-one courses are provided by both ourselves and our partner, Jack Meyer from CAD Jewellery Skills. The British Academy of Jewellery runs our group courses, and we are happy to announce that this spring, our new partner, Jewellery Academy of Wales, will be conducting online evening courses. This is ideal for those who work fulltime.

+44 7588 696691 pooja@sierraconsultancy.co.uk www.sierraconsultancy.com

Definitely. There is still this misconception that bench jewellers will be out of a job. This is far from the truth! We encourage our clients to use both methods of creation… CAD and benchwork. CAD speeds up certain processes such as resizing, eliminates the loss of precious metal particles or scraps and allows users the freedom to work from anywhere. The bench jeweller, on the other hand, has the knowledge of how to make a design practical and put it all together.

What are the other issues? Do these vary according to their particular sector of the jewellery industry? Another concern is money. Professional CAD software can be expensive, which is why we have an entry level called 3DESIGN Atelier. Like everything, CAD is an investment to help grow your business and offer a more one-to-one design service. You pay for what you get. There are free software solutions out there, however, what may take 30 minutes to create in their software could be accomplished within a matter of minutes in 3DESIGN.

Tell us about the courses that Sierra Consultancy offers. We have one-to-one courses and group courses to learn 3DESIGN. There are three

The 3DESIGN packages As the official 3DESIGN reseller, we offer three versions of the software: Professional, Designer and Atelier. 3DESIGN Professional is the premium version of the software with all 3DESIGN tools and builders inside. It allows you to create your own STL files required for 3D printing (STL stands for Standard Tessellation Language, or STereoLithography.) It also includes an entry-level version of 3SHAPER, subdivision modelling software. 3DESIGN Designer is perfect for new CAD designers and companies requiring multiple licenses. It also includes an entrylevel version of 3SHAPER, sub-division modelling software. There is no STL export option available with this licence. If there are multiple licences in a company, we recommend using a Professional licence for conversion or using one of our recommended partners, like Hockley Mint, Birmingham; Precision Wax, Stevenage and ABT Design, Kent to convert to 3D printing. 3DESIGN Atelier is the entry-level software – ideal for those new to the industry and on a budget. It has the STL capability without all the automatic builders and wizards. Atelier or Designer can be upgraded to a Professional licence at any point, by paying the price difference.

Show Report

The Jeweller

By the time you read this, it’ll have been a very long two years since the last Jewellery & Watch Show… but it’s back! Now a glittering part of the MODA sector within Spring Fair, it plans to kick off the new season in style.

pring Fair, the wholesale marketplace for home, gift, fashion, design and source, and home to Jewellery & Watch, is taking place from 6th to 9th February 2022 at NEC Birmingham. To set the tone, organiser Hyve has announced Empowering Change as the show’s manifesto for 2022, a manifesto that aims to set the agenda for the live show’s Inspiring Retail Stage as well as a year-round content programme. Suzanne Ellingham, head of content at Hyve Group, says: “Retail is in a state of incredible transformation. Technology enables customers to shop anywhere, any time and in any way that they want. The competitive landscape has changed, and even online retailers are now facing increasing costs and hostile marketing conditions. In a time when staying the same means you’re moving backwards, expecting different results from the same tactics doesn’t make sense. I’m really excited about this year’s Empowering Change editorial theme. The schedule will be packed full of incredible speakers and participants, helpful and inspiring insights, newness as well as the essential trends for 2022 and beyond.”

Alexander Thurlow

On with Targeting visitors across all of Spring Fair’s sectors and created as a platform to champion retail, the Inspiring Retail Stage’s full schedule of live content from experts in their field will provide insights, trend reports, keynote conversations and panel discussions on the key topics facing retail. Each of the four days of the show will cover a dedicated theme correlated to the Empowering Change manifesto.

Herbert Marx.

Giving the show a welcome fillip ahead of the event, in December, Spring Fair was presented with the prestigious Trade Show of the Century Award at the Association of Event Organisers Centenary Party & Awards. Julie Driscoll, Hyve’s divisional managing director for retail, engineering and manufacturing, said: “I’m so delighted! This prestigious award goes to all employees and suppliers who have helped keep this brilliant exhibition delivering for its customers over the last 75 years.”

Show Report

Spring 2022

Georgia Wang

Rodney Holman

the show! Midhaven

Jewellery & Watch – our preview of this year’s attendees. Alexander Thurlow

Georgia Wang

This ever-blooming business continues to delight customers with its beautiful Love Nature, Love Flowers range. With the past year opening eyes to the wonder of the outdoors, this new nature-inspired collection ensures Alexander Thurlow’s products remain as in demand as they have been for the last 72 years.

Established in 2019, Georgia’s pearl jewellery is designed “without borders of age, gender or stereotype.” Two collections will be unveiled: Quintessence and Burial of Rose. The former takes its concept from The Little Mermaid, the flowers referencing Ariel, the pearls refer to her tears and the bubbles in the sea. The latter takes the dark background of the Middle Ages, with vines twining to create baroque-like pieces.

Herbert Marx This year, Herbert Marx launches its brand-new handmade silver and gold chain collections, which offer exceptional quality and a wide variety of designs. In addition, it continues to offer “the widest and best range of gold, gemstone and diamond jewellery (both 9ct and 18ct) anywhere in the UK… and has the most incredible B2B website, free next-day UK delivery on stock items.”

Rodney Holman

Midhaven

“We will have lots of fantastic new designs at Spring Fair for you to tempt your customers. With brighter times on the horizon, there should be plenty of reasons for people to treat themselves and loved ones to fabulous jewellery. As always, there is no minimum order and delivery is free.”

Featuring created opals in vibrant blue tones or subtle white, the Opalique collection comprises earrings, pendants and bracelets in 925 sterling silver with rhodium-plated finish. Earrings range from simple understated studs to classic drops, with themes of animals, love and wellbeing.

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Sea Gems

Sea Gems Silver Origins boutique jewellery brand features contemporary handcrafted 925 sterling silver jewellery designed by Sea Gems in Cornwall. Inspired by the iconic Cornish landscape, Sea Gems has created unique designs combining high polished and textured surfaces with gold vermeil or coloured gemstones to enhance the beauty and story of each piece. Collections include the intricate Beachcomber range, delicate botanical and wildlife pieces as well as fun, whimsical motifs that celebrate moments of love and life.

Lido Pearls

Cavendish French

Buvy

Cavendish French For 2022, this independent designer of handcrafted contemporary sterling silver and stone set jewellery will launch its new Rainbow collection into its micro pavé set cubic zirconia range. This will include green, red and yellow stones. Also showcasing are many new silver designs plated in 18 carat yellow gold.

Buvy Founded in Sydney in 2019 by designer Paven Rayat, this classic and minimal jewellery brand has a vision to create beautiful and high-quality pieces. Buvy’s next collection, Adapt, was created with the notion of pieces taking on a new form with the crevices they sit in. Buvy “explores the journey of how slowly things change, collide and adapt into something more beautiful than we could have imagined.”

Lido Pearls Beautiful, timeless and elegant, pearls have always been perfect finishing accessories for brides and bridesmaids, and Lido will showcase over 1,600 designs, including statement pieces as well as delicate pretty pearl and CZ sets. The theme for 2022 from Lido will be #fallinlovewithpearls, a line that will appear in all marketing and social media posts this year.

02 00 23 0 39 0 93 0 30 9 0 69 96 9 U KU@ K@ G RGEREENE R NO RC OKCSKDSIDAIM AO MN OD NSD. S C.O CM OM

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Reeves & Reeves

Amber Hall

Scream Pretty

Reeves & Reeves

Scream Pretty

Reeves & Reeves will introduce a new collection of sterling silver charm necklaces with a selection of pearls and textured silver and 18ct gold vermeil charms. The design gives customers the fun of choosing and swapping charms on the chains, which feature a contemporary large link. Team with hoop earrings to finish the look.

The signature playful style is clear in Mismatched Huggies, the latest designs added to the extensive curated ear collections. This updated take on the huggie features twin 18ct gold-plated sterling silver hoops, one with a hinged clasp and an attached semi-hoop, creating the illusion of two piercings. Available in a riot of coloured crystals, turquoise and clear stones, one hoop is studded in CZ stones, the other polished. Other highlights include trend-led shell and pearl, colour-pop enamel and Prairie collections.

Amber Hall

Kali Ma

This well-established wholesale company specialises in Baltic amber jewellery. Family run, its website is trade only and allows you to browse through its catalogue range as well as additional products both in amber and other gemstones such as turquoise, amethyst and moldavite stones.

Kali Ma Following two 2021 key trends, Kali Ma has seen a massive increase in silver ring sales in general, but particularly in gem set ranges. Vintage retro styles featuring oxidised details and motifs, such as lotus flower accents, are among the most elaborate styles. Bright multi-coloured stone-set silver ranges – including CZs – have also expanded with delicate necklaces being a favourite.

H2on at Midhaven H2on at Midhaven

This Italian-made and -designed collection of men’s jewellery has many new styles for 2022. In stainless steel with 18ct gold plate, diamond and/or leather details, the highquality design-led line is all about style and opulence.

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Spring 2022

Perfection Jewellery

The UK-based manufacturer Perfection Jewellery offers thousands of styles of diamond jewellery – from simple studs and tennis bracelets to large dramatic crosses. It finds creative ways of making diamond jewellery look as awe-inspiring as possible, while providing fantastic value… without sacrificing quality.

RE Morrish This family-run British manufacturing jewellers based in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter offers over 7,000 products at the show. Covering many styles, the jewellery ranges from Roman, mediaeval and Tudor to Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco. Check out, too, the gents’ signet rings, Celtic designs and gem-set and diamond-set pieces, all made in Morrish’s workshops, in silver and gold.

RE Morrish

London Pearl

PoM925

London Pearl With good movement on its silver ranges, London Pearl has rapidly expanded its silver offer and now has several major multiples running silver lines with the company, both with and without pearl content. The simple, traditional lines are proving particularly popular.

PoM925 The new collection plays with tactile surfaces and mixed metallic tones to create imaginative designs, with a core sterling silver range adding timeless pieces. Unexpected details feature throughout, with a laidback elegance, true to PoM’s signature style. Golden hues add a hint of luxe, while worn finishes ensure each piece is understated yet chic, whether classic or contemporary. The addition of crystals and gemstones creates extra sparkle.

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The Jeweller Town Talk

Town Talk Town Talk has been developing the art of maintaining sparkling silver and jewellery for over 125 years. Superior quality and beautiful presentation give its jewellery care particular appeal. Visit the stand to see the complete range, including the new antitarnish jewellery pouches.

Studex

With over 40 years’ experience, Studex’s comprehensive ear and nose piercing programme with training and support helps retail partners offer a piercing service in their business. Piercing trends for 2022 will see the continuation of the curated ear in high shine 9ct gold with diamonds, and jewellers can showcase a range of different sizes and styles of earring.

Pure Jewels at Pure London, 2022

LOX @ Goodman Bros

Pure Jewels is a new destination at this trend-led show, showcasing collections by fine jewellery designers, as well as watches, components and loose gems. Pure regularly welcomes top UK jewellery retailers, press and influencers, who attend to gather product inspiration and source new collections for the seasons ahead. The show’s organiser, Hyve, is offering a 2.5% discount to all NAJ members who wish to exhibit at Pure London, which takes place 17th to 19th July, 2022 at Olympia, London.

Inverness @ Goodman Bros.

Connoisseurs, Lox and Inverness at Goodman Bros. Alongside Connoisseurs, the much-loved and comprehensive range of jewellery cleaning products, Goodman Bros. will show Lox, the Secure Lifting Earring Back – patented, British design and manufacture – which fits all types of earrings and post diameters and is hypo-allergenic, comfortable, safe and secure.

New to the Lox family is a unique hygiene seal for retailers to hygiene-protect earrings sold and accept returns. Inverness supports businesses thinking of adding the ear-piercing service into their stores with its safe, gentle ear-piercing system. Perfect for the curated ear look, Inverness is safe to pierce the lobe and cartilage using a hand-pressured system.

Industry News

The Jeweller

Inhorgenta S Munich

howcasing jewellery, watches and gemstones, it’s with a spirit of realism that the show has been postponed. Instead of mid-February Inhorgenta Munich will be held from 8th-11th April, 2022. The organisers regard Inhorgenta as “Europe’s most important industry get-together.” Show director Klaus Dittrich explains: “Our partners and customers long for the direct exchange onsite – and we ensure a safe trade-fair experience. The central element is that only those vaccinated, recovered and tested can participate. And we have well-ventilated halls, clever routing, distancing and hygiene rules.”

It may have been postponed, for clear reasons, but come hell or high water, the Munich-based Inhorgenta trade fair is ready to show the industry can get together safely.

Ti Sento

Hans D Krieger

Gerstner

Sif Jakobs

Gellner

Among the new features at the show is the concept of the CARAT AREA in Hall C1, which will have a selection of top-notch international brands, some showing there for the first time. Themes of the show will be Innovation & Future Retail and Inspiration & Sustainability, highlighting that “the entire industry must face up to the consequences of digitalisation, especially for the retail sector and its responsibility regarding sustainability.” “The future retail landscape will be shaped by several major changes: we are increasingly seeing digital channels and hybrid concepts, and at the same time conscious, sustainable and mindful shopping is coming to the fore,” says Theresa Schleicher (Future Institute), who has provided insights for Inhorgenta’s Trendfactory. “The luxury segment will grow in the sustainability sector in the future. And then we see the desire for strong individualisation, but also the longing of public spirit and community. Customers want speed and availability, as well as a reason to peruse and window shop.”

4th Floor, 86 Hatton Garden, London EC1N 8QQ E-mail: sales@gemex.co.uk Tel: +44 (0) 207 242 1080

Trends

The Jeweller

Trends

Spring 2022

Love in the Time of Covid Far from being dimmed, the desire to commit, to wed, to express love and devotion has intensified over the past two years. Long may the celebrations continue.

01 Betts Metals 02 Continental 03 River Mounts 04 Diamnet 05 Hockley Mint 06 Unique & Co 07 Matt Aminoff

nce we can look back with some objectivity at the effects of the pandemic on our industry, interesting statistics and observations will doubtless emerge. The trade’s resilience, ingenuity and optimism have been tested… and not found wanting. And among customers, the demand for fine jewellery – diamond, wedding and commitment jewellery in particular – has never seemed stronger. From plain gold bands to statement engagement rings and striking bridal jewellery sets, the sector is booming. Gareth Thomas of Brown & Newirth, who saw a ‘let’s get on with it’ attitude, is optimistic. “Various reports indicate there were around 350,000 weddings postponed due to the pandemic and that it will take two to three years for these to filter through,” he says. “On top of the average 250,000 weddings per year in the UK, we’re looking at a market somewhere in the region of 400,000 weddings in 2022 and 2023. The bridal market is going to be robust for years to come, especially as we’ve seen an increase in engagements (and probably break-ups!) as a result of lockdowns.” The ethical jeweller Ingle & Rhode has produced analysis around key moments, from the first cases of Covid to today, providing revealing trends in consumer behaviour across the UK. “The data is interesting,” says a spokesperson, “and what we have seen so far is when the country unlocks from a lockdown, we experience a big bounce. During lockdowns, people deferred their spending, so over the course of the last 12 months we have experienced our best year.” Betts Metals, which specialises in Single Mine Origin Gold for its wedding bands, observed “a groundswell of interest in provenance, coming from consumers as well as

retailers. It’s not an option to not know where your metal is coming from,” says Charlie Betts. Nathan Warburton of River Mounts adds: “After the turbulence of the 2020 lockdowns, the market rebounded and sales not only resumed but increased. With many expecting pent-up demand to last only a short time, it came as quite a surprise for most to find that demand continued strong through 2021. We experienced an increasing demand for bridal jewellery – primarily with people having shorter engagements and buying both their engagement and wedding bands together.” “The bridal market is growing very nicely,” adds Howard Levine of Diamnet. “It seems there were loads of people waiting for the lockdown to finish before getting engaged, just as we hoped. This is not a surprise, but what is a surprise is how it continued past the initial reopening. Things keep getting busier!” Nikita Hornzee of Continental also experienced an increasingly buoyant bridal sector. “With couples ever surer of their commitment to one another, we’ve seen a lift in bridal sales and an increased average spend, with clients looking for quality, individuality and elegance,” she explains. “Also, we’ve seen a lift in eternity rings sales, in particular set with ruby, emerald or sapphire, celebrating wedding anniversaries.” She also points out that lockdowns have offered time to pause, reflect and evaluate… across the sector, for a variety of reasons. Hockley Mint saw increased demand for multi-stone rings. Wedfit six-claw styles were also “extremely busy” in the lead up to Christmas. “We’ve seen product demand increase during the pandemic; being UK-based meant we had shorter lead times compared to overseas suppliers,” says Gary Wroe. “We hope that support for British-made jewellery continues as worldwide restrictions lift and more retailers, designers and brands appreciate domestic craftspeople, fast lead times and talent… like those found at Hockley Mint.” “At Allied Gold, business has been stronger than we could have ever wished across all aspects of the business, setting new records month by month,” says Robert Day. “All product ranges and collections are performing strongly in all alloys, and the bespoke side of our offer has doubled year-on-year again, and we’re about to launch our diamond engagement ring collection, which is new for 2022.”

Trends

The Jeweller

Trends

Spring 2022

Trending Now Bespoke designs performed well at London DE, which also sells loose gemstones and finished jewellery to the trade and direct to consumers. “Currently solitaires, trilogy and halo rings are our bread and butter – they still remain highly popular and our most requested of designs,” says Phil Spencer. Coloured gemstones for engagement rings are becoming increasingly popular, with more demand for them now than there ever has been. Gemex’s bestselling engagement ring styles this year are “easily” solitaires and three-stone rings, especially those set with fancy cuts, such as ovals, pears and emeralds. “We’ve seen a resurgence in yellow gold, including platinum head with yellow gold shank,” says Lee Ruben. “Alternating coloured stones combined with diamonds for eternity bands is also increasingly popular.” “Tankel has seen huge demand for coloured three-stones and coloured clusters,” adds Tony Tankel. “Coloured centres that have been very strong are emeralds; rubies; blue, pink yellow and fire orange sapphires; aqua, mint tourmaline and tsavorites. Demand for all diamond rings and earrings and pendants has been buoyant for a long time.” Oliver Sutton at Charles Green anticipates the key trends experienced over the last couple of years to continue at the luxury end of the market: “In bridal jewellery, we expect platinum to remain overwhelmingly the most popular choice and the average spend to increase, and we anticipate demand for bespoke bridal jewellery to grow further,” he explains.

08 London DE 09 Andrew Geoghegan 10 Charles Green 11

Gemex

Andre Michael

Wedds & Co

14 Tankel

“We’ve definitely seen an increase in engagement rings from consumers and stockists,” explains designer Andrew Geoghegan. “The wedding bands we’ve seen movement in have been plain, with perhaps some subtle stone set detail and a movement away from super fine. Our interlocking Costeira micro-set diamond ring has seen a terrific uptake, not simply as a wedding band – its versatility as bridal stacking bands and its add-to style placed it as a firm favourite for 2021. We’re confident this will increase in 2022 as we introduce bangles and unset rings.” Andre Michael expects smaller diamonds, say 0.50-carat, to become increasingly sought-after this year as “polished diamond prices are likely to rise further due to tight supplies of rough diamonds. Platinum is expected to continue to offer good value relative to gold, especially if inflationary concerns persist into 2022, which will underpin the yellow metal seen as a hedge against rising prices.” At Brown & Newirth, retailer demand “is of course driven largely by what the consumer is asking for. We’ve seen halos and fancy cut engagement rings – ovals and pears have done especially well over the past few years, and we don’t see this slowing,” says Thomas. “While classic round brilliant diamonds remain the biggest volume style, we’re seeing some interest in fine emerald and princess cuts. Designs tend to be fine and decorative. Men are definitely choosing narrower bands,” he adds. “For a decade our best-selling width was 6mm, but in 2021, it was 5mm by a large margin. Gents are also selecting more decorative bands – there’s a significant upturn in demand for repeated and geometric patterns and diamonds seem to be back. There may be something in the water due to next year’s jubilee – platinum sales have wiped everything else off the board. We have enjoyed around 85 per cent platinum orders (taking away jewellery).”

Laboratory Grown Diamonds “For me, the introduction of laboratory-grown diamonds has really helped keep the wedding jewellery push alive,” says Levine. “Customers have been educated enough now to understand the value proposition presented by these diamonds, and they’re embracing the choice. Notwithstanding the controversial ethical and sustainable status of these gems, the public is open to this message and bringing the conversation to the fore. In turn, this is bringing the customer into the shop and allowing retailers to present the choice in the best way they see fit. We are booming with both types of diamonds and long may it continue.” “We’re watching with interest to see how the lab-grown diamond jewellery market fares in 2022,” adds Sutton. “There’s certainly been a lot of coverage in the recent months, not only in trade press publications, but we’ve noticed features across more and more luxury print media publications. Will it make a big splash in 2022, and how will the luxury market react?” “Last but certainly not least,” Hockley Mint now offers a collection of laboratory-grown diamond jewellery, comprising single and three-stone rings as well as earrings and pendants. “Laboratory-grown diamonds have shown they are here to stay, increasing in popularity over the last decade,” says Wroe. “We aim to stay at the forefront of innovation with this new collection. We also understand many customers remain apprehensive regarding quality and source, that’s why all stones above .3ct are International Gemology Institute certified.”

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Henning (left) and Dustin (right)

STERNGLAS – the one to watch Based in Hamburg, Germany, Sternglas is fast becoming the timepiece name to reckon with. We learn how one man’s passion became a watch market winner.

n 2007, when he was just 16, Dustin Fontaine landed himself a student job with the high-end German watch manufacturer MeisterSinger. Until that moment, he had no real interest in watches and certainly no close connection with them. The experience, however, was to change his life. Almost immediately, he developed a passion for timepieces, a passion that took him from one-man-band entrepreneur to head of a Europe-wide business employing 20-plus people.

That early love for the high-end watches Fontaine was working with sparked a particular ambition. These watches were wonderful… but expensive. Was it not possible to make a watch with a similarly clean design but was affordable? In 2016, he opted to crowdfund and received encouraging support on Facebook for his idea and so produced his first watch. It was a case of trial and error – problems with the glass led to lots of early failures and redesigns. Persistence eventually paid off. Although the initial thought was to produce just one watch – forming a company was never part of the plan – the following year, he tried crowdfunding again and this time was able to create a collection. This time he used sapphire glass for each watch… a practice that continues today, along with quick-release, no-tools-needed straps as well as screw-

back cases for each model where possible. Affordability, however, remains key to the Sternglas ethos, along with the minimal, clean lines. By the end of 2018, the company was growing, but selling online only. Fontaine and his co-founder, Henning Haberkamp, decided that they needed to follow B2B channels in order to broaden their market and support brand awareness. Sternglas needed to be in jewellers’ windows. Sales reps were established and, within a year, there were 100 accounts in Germany. Then Covid struck… but not before the brand came to the attention of Hans Brandt of watch distributor TickTockDepot based in the UK. “At the end of 2019, my father sent me a cutting from the local newspaper of my hometown, Hamburg – it was an article

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Spring 2022

regarding the success of the Sternglas start-up,” Brandt explains. “Initially I was attracted to the simplicity of the designs. Then, at the start of 2020 I met the Sternglas management and team (a great young crew) and was convinced of the level of craftsmanship, as well as the reasonable prices (£139 to £399 at retail) of this largely unisex collection. “I could see that it would make a perfect line extension for our UK distribution of German watches. Now we are covering the vintage, aviator and, with Sternglas, the timeless ‘form follows function’ sector,” he adds. He’s certain that the brand is perfect for the UK market: “the Scandinavian school (Hamburg is just one hour’s drive from the Danish border), combined with German impact, is a popular British lifestyle look,” he explains. “And the good priceperformance ratio goes fantastically with the German name. It’s a winner.” The timing for Brandt, as we now know, was not great. “It couldn’t have been worse – I started as an agent to promote the range a couple of days before the first lockdown,” he says. “However, we ended the year with a handful of new retail partners and a stunning turnover.” The other issue to deal with was Brexit. “In April 2021 TickTockDepot decided to invest in stock to become the Sternglas distributor to make the import and supply process safe and easy for our customers.” It was a good move. “The number of accounts is continually rising and sales are going up, whether online or high street,” he adds. “The customer feedback is promising. They benefit from the exclusive limited editions that I could get my hands on for the UK contingent. Plus, Sternglas provides first class images and videos and stickers to use

on social media.” Customers also appreciate the good-looking, high-quality window display material as well as the packaging – a contemporary style cube made from quality card. The manual for every watch is available by scanning the QR code that comes with the warranty card in the box. While TickTockDepot welcomes multiples, their numbers are necessarily restricted by the current customer map. “Our philosophy is to create a long-lasting partnership with independent, family-run jewellers; this way we can guarantee an exclusive sales area,” Brandt says. The partner profile also includes selected online dealers, “but to keep it fair and successful, we don’t want our partners to sell on third-party platforms,” he adds. So, what in the Sternglas line-up is exciting Brandt right now? “Definitely the new diver’s watch. It still has the brand’s signature design quality… it’s the most Bauhaus-like diver’s watch on the market.”

Watch News

The Jeweller

Spring Time A selection of new and recent horological releases.

04 DUCKWORTH PRESTEX British watch firm Duckworth Prestex launches its second collection following the success of the first, released early 2021. The Bolton pays tribute to the hometown of founder Neil Duckworth, whose grandfather established Prestex there in 1924. The Bolton replicates the look of one of the first Prestex pocket watches – the same numerals font plus characteristic train track and white dial. Japanese movements ensure high, lasting accuracy, while a polished and brushed stainless steel cushion case gives a period look.

05 PANERAI The Luminor Chrono Flyback Ceramica and Verde Militare represent Panerai’s legacy – timepieces developed for marine exploits, embracing advanced materials and design. These new models in the Chrono Complicazioni family are characterised by high-tech materials, complex calibers and small quantities. Both will be available in limited numbers.

01 JUNGHANS

02 CERTINA

06 DOXA

The Meister range has been at the heart of the Junghans collection since the 1930s – and it remains there today. To mark Junghans’ 160th anniversary in 2021, the company released the Meister Fein range, with its delicate contours and elegant design features. It’s available in three variations: silver-plated sunray brush dial on the finely sculpted Milanaise bracelet, and a more traditional white or sunray brushed black dial on a choice of leather straps.

The DS Powermatic 80 Certina’s latest three-hand model is multifaceted: stylish, precise, timeless, urban and retro. Thanks to the quick-change strap system, the look of the watch can easily change to suit mood or occasion. The innovative movement demonstrates precision, a comfortable 80-hour power reserve and, thanks to its NivachronTM balance spring, enhanced resistance to magnetic fields.

The new Sub 600T is a change in direction from the brand’s typical look, introducing a new case shape – away from the curvy tonneau case of the popular 300, 300T and 1500T models. A re-creation of the original 600T from the ‘80s, the watch case is a chamfered stainless steel block with angular and sharp lines and an offset crown at 4 o’clock. Available with a choice of sandblasted steel bezel or a newly introduced ceramic bezel and water resistant to 600m.

03 OMEGA OMEGA has added three new models to its refined Globemaster family. Each new 41mm model has signature details, including a fluted bezel and a pie-pan dial, inspired by the first OMEGA Constellation watches released in 1952. Each facet has the months of the year, and on the scratchresistant sapphire crystal case back is a Central Observatory medallion – a tribute to OMEGA’s history of precision records and achievements in the early 20th century.

Watch News

Spring 2022

07 IRON ANNIE

08 BAUHAUS

10 BREITLING

The F13 Templehof line focuses on classic masculine pilot watches with a modern touch. The Alarm Chronograph appeals to purists with its traditionally designed dial – legible even in the dark – while other models have colourful accents. As well as the chronographs and GMT models with quartz movements, there are models with automatic movements – high-quality automatic watches at entry-level prices.

For those who love minimal designs and Form Follows Function style, the Bauhaus watch brand features all the attributes of the eponymous design school and adds fresh colour. In the middle and lower price segments, the watches have high-quality automatic movements from MIYOTA and ETA, plus quartz movements from the Swiss company Ronda. This new model features a solar movement and power reserve display.

Super AVI, the newest watch series from Breitling, celebrates aviation history with designs inspired by the original 1953 CoPilot AVI aviator’s watch and four legendary planes: the North American Aviation P-51 Mustang, the Vought F4U Corsair, the Curtiss P-40 Warhawk and the de Havilland Mosquito. Seen here: the Mustang comes in 18ct red gold or stainless steel case.

11 TIMEX

Co-designed by outdoor brand Finisterre and Timex, the Timex x Finisterre Tide Watch combines classic styling, recycled materials and high standards of design and durability. The rugged body is a solid casting of stainless steel, co-branded on the caseback and watch dial in nautical hues with orange accents. Water resistant to 200m, the watch’s defining feature is a unique tide-tracking function that counts down to low or high tide, displayed by a blue hand placed where the second hand usually is on the dial.

12 BREMONT 09 G-SHOCK

This striking new colourway reflects the world of virtual reality. The Virtual Blue series highlights details with turquoise, pink and purple flashes, bringing an '80s theme up to date. With the latest Carbon Core Guard technology, in a slimmer, more refined case, this watch is as durable and tough as any G-SHOCK, with 200m water resistance and shock resistance.

The Longitude Stainless Steel is the latest release in Bremont’s Longitude Collection. The classic yet contemporary design marks a significant milestone as it houses the brand’s first manufactured movement from its new ENG300 movement series. It also incorporates original brass from the historic Flamsteed Meridian Line at the Royal Observatory Greenwich, which marks the historic position John Flamsteed, the first Astronomer Royal, made his observations, laying the foundations for accurate timekeeping and navigation.

Watch News

The Jeweller

13 TUDOR

14 GIRARD-PERREGAUX

TUDOR has revived its historic collaboration with the French Navy with the launch of the Pelagos FXD model (FXD refers to the extra robust fixed strapped bars of the case). This technical diver’s watch meets specifications developed with the navy’s combat swimmers. Features include a bidirectional rotatable bezel in titanium with ceramic insert, 70-hour power reserve and one-piece fabric straps with a self-gripping fastening system.

As Girard-Perregaux celebrates its 230th anniversary, it looked to its past to create a new model – the Cat’s Eye Eternity Edition. With its in-house-made grand feu enamel dial, this latest model follows several variants of the Cat’s Eye, and its lustrous, flawless beauty promises to never fade or crack with time. The dial, with its guilloche sunray motif, is set with 62 brilliant-cut diamonds.

15 MAINSPRING ACCESSORIES The latest addition to the range of secure and stylish accessories designed for the modern watch collector is the Raceday Sidecar. With watch protection at the heart of the brand, the solutions to preserve fine valuables are crafted with attention to detail using the finest materials. This four-slot watch and utility pouch of high quality nylon and leatherette comes in three colourways.

14 15

AND IN THE NEWS

TUDOR + Beaverbrooks Launch Beaverbrooks has collaborated with Swiss watchmaker TUDOR to open TUDOR’s first UK boutique outside London. Owned and operated by Beaverbrooks, it is in Sheffield’s Meadowhall centre, offering a new shopping experience in the north. The boutique features a range of classic, sport, diving and heritage-inspired watches, and it’s the only shop outside London to stock the latest, highly anticipated TUDOR Black Bay 58 Bronze Boutique Edition Watch.

Hawchester Launches Created and designed by entrepreneur Shehab Jabir, who comes from a long line of jewellers and watchmakers, this first collection of contemporary, elegant and quintessentially British-style watches is a dedication to the watchmakers of Clerkenwell, London. Jabir, a practising plastic and reconstructive surgeon specialising in hand surgery by day, has a passion for precision and the intricacies of how things work. With watchmaking in his DNA, he spent the last three years perfecting the design, which was strongly influenced by British luxury automobiles with their muscular build and brushed and polished steel and seeking the best mechanisms and craftsmanship. The Hawchester Clerkenwell timepiece is available in both automatic and chrono quartz movements, and each feature the same eye-catching signature on-trend large face in a distinctive colour palette: Dover White, Cannock Black, Oxford Blue, Cumbrian Green and Tudor Red.

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The Jeweller

For the love of history Steven Jordan FGA DGA FIRV gives a glimpse into the world of a heritage valuer.

by eye. It’s a skill I still possess. There was the absolute minimum of gemmological instruments in those days and much had to be determined by good use of the 10x loupe. In my first year, the manager introduced me to the process of insurance valuation. His approach was systematic and certainly influenced the way I carry out valuations even today.

When (and why) did you join the IRV? How has that advanced your valuing career?

What led you to become a designer maker? I left school in 1973 at 17 and worked for a bank for a few months. It was a poor fit; the bank was glad to see me go. Since childhood, I had an interest in watches and geology. A vacancy for an apprentice jeweller in an independent jeweller in Great Yarmouth seemed a good match for my interests. My career started modestly – each day, no matter the weather – I was entrusted to wash the windows. I was ambitious and soon progressed to emptying the bins and vacuuming. In 1974, I carried out my first valuation – albeit under supervision. I moved from one independent jewellers to the next, gleaning as much as I possibly could. I was, and still am, a glutton for information.

How did you make the leap from cleaning to valuing? Was there any formal training? Every young lad at that time was expected to carry out the most menial of tasks. However, my thirst for knowledge was recognised and rewarded by lessons in watch repair, gemstone analysis and diamond grading

In the late 1980s, I was fortunate to wash up on the safe shores of ST Hopper of Boston. Under the watchful eye of that wonderful gentleman Gerry Hopper, myself and his son Tim honed our valuation skills. It was at that time I was involved with my first major town silver and regalia valuation, assisting Mr Hopper at Boston Town Hall. It’s an interesting collection, particularly with its links to the other Boston and the silversmith Paul Revere. It well and truly whetted my appetite. In the mid ‘80s, I tried to source a training programme for valuers and found that although nothing in our sector existed,

there was a scheme in the very early days of development. In 1989, I joined the NAG Registered Valuers scheme. I embarked on an independent career in 1993 and, thanks to my friends at Cellini Cambridge, who allowed me office space, the business quickly progressed. Although I had a good portfolio of retail jewellers, it was discrete consultancy work for the valuation companies and auction houses that brought the very interesting heritage valuations. It was an absolute privilege to value items owned and worn by George Washington, Lord Nelson, Napoleon Bonaparte, Sir Winston Churchill and various deceased members of the Royal Family.

How do you keep up to date with the world of valuing? As a keen gemmologist and former board member, I maintain my gemmological knowledge through the Gem-A Gemmological Journal and gemmological websites. There are occasions when there’s need of my gemmological knowledge as some regalia and ecclesiastical items are gem set. For silver and regalia, I’m constantly in touch with silversmiths to ensure I’m up to date with manufacturing processes and pricing for facsimile values. I also take a close interest in auction market trends. My day starts by reading the Antiques Trade Gazette at breakfast. I’m keen on the history of silver and its makers and am a member of the Silver Society.

Any career highlights? In 2005 – the bicentenary of the Battle of Trafalgar – I’d already valued one of the Norfolk hero’s mourning rings. Being asked next to give an opinion on his Gold Medal was a highlight. I’ve met the famous, worked abroad, underground, under guard and in the middle of the Thames. My services have been used by Gurr Johns (Pall Mall), Mappin & Webb, Carrington & Co (Royal Warrant holders), The Guild, the fine jewellery department at Harrods, Tiffany & Co, Mozafarian (London/Dubai), Searle & Co, the London Assay Office, the Birmingham Assay Office, Bonhams Auctioneers, Phillips Auctioneers, the Police and loss adjusters. I now concentrate fully on silver and regalia collections – primarily for the livery companies, town councils, museums, churches, cathedrals, military and sporting bodies. It allows me to handle historically interesting items for which I still have a passion. Steven Jordan FGA DGA FIRV FNAJ Tel: 020 7419 5956 Email: info@hawksworth-valuations.co.uk www.hawksworth-valuations.co.uk

since 1890

COLOURED GEMSTONES

Ruppenthal uK ltd 7th Floor, 63-66 Hatton Garden, London EC1N 8LE +44 (0) 208 777 4443, london@ruppenthal.com

Find a Jeweller is your NAJ shop window Keep your profile up-to-date and show the world what your business is all about. naj.co.uk/find

SecurityWise With cyber-attacks becoming more frequent and more sophisticated, jewellers need to be prepared for this growing threat. TH March outlines the facts and preventative measures. Have you done all you can to protect your business against a cyber-attack? Throughout history jewellers have been vulnerable to crime. Dealing with highvalue goods means security has always been paramount. While most jewellers have robust systems to reduce the risk of smash and grab attacks, how many can confidently say they are doing all they can to secure their businesses against cybercrime?

The rise in cyber-attacks The Government’s Cyber Security Breaches Survey 2021 reveals that four in 10 businesses reported a security breach or attack in the previous 12 months. The most common of those were phishing attacks (a fraudulent message designed to trick the victim into revealing sensitive information to the attacker or to deploy malicious software on the victim's infrastructure like ransomware), which accounted for around 80 per cent of reported incidents. Experts have warned that Covid-19 has exacerbated the problem because businesses have found it more difficult to put cyber-security measures in place during the pandemic. This may be because of resources being stretched and more

The Jeweller

members of staff working remotely. The growth in e-commerce is also creating more opportunities for criminals, who are developing increasingly sophisticated methods to access businesses’ data and other assets.

it is vital for businesses to consider a standalone cyber-liability policy.

Steps to take after an incident

The changing nature of cybercrime

When a cyber-attack occurs, how your organisation responds can make all the difference in mitigating the damages. In particular, time is of the essence, so having an effective cyber-incident response plan in place is vital for your organisation. It should specifically address key actions to implement immediately following an attack. Consider these steps:

Jewellers face the constant risk of staff falling for phishing emails or text messages, increasing the danger of email or socialmedia hacking. This means the criminal could disrupt the business’s systems by installing malware or ransomware.

• • • • •

As well as causing huge financial losses, a cyber-attack can also threaten your reputation as a jeweller. After all, your customers want to feel confident you are providing a safe shopping experience.

Criminals continually innovate to stay ahead of the law, especially in cybercrime. Because their methods are increasingly sophisticated, it is impossible for any business to identify every potential threat.

Protection against a growing threat While it is important for every business to educate its staff to recognise potential threats, no one is immune to the risk of a cyber-attack. Everyone should consider having protection in place in case the worst should happen.

Start documenting the incident Alert key personnel Secure all workplace technology Seek further assistance Inform appropriate parties

TH March has access to specialised insurers who can provide jewellers with expert advice, guidance and security strategies. This cover can include protection against extortion, corporate ID theft and phishing. Should an attack occur, the business receives cover to respond to the issue, including any legal or regulatory fees, as well as crisis communication and business interruption cover.

According to the Cyber Security Breaches Survey 2021, however, under half of businesses (43 per cent) have some form of cyber insurance. Most standard property and liability policies have exclusions for cybercrime. This means

Staying Cyber Safe

New year, new business, new you.

Join the NAJ’s community for independent jewellery retailers. You’ll get access to a like-minded network that can help support you and your business. Regular meetings with other members, commercial benchmarking reports, ‘need to know’ newsflash service, educational store visits, and so much more.

“Just back from my first JBN meeting, a day packed with advice and guidance. My only regret is not joining the JBN sooner.” Lesley Skinner, Jan Allan Jewellers

Contact Michael Donaldson JBN Facilitator 07817 305 122 michael@thevalueinnovator.co.uk

Business Advice

The Jeweller

Data – it’s potential gold dust Increase your 2022 profits by using your data, suggests Michael Donaldson, JET Business Network facilitator.

ast November, I was on a Zoom panel at the World Jewellery Confederation 2021 Congress – it was the final global open session, and the digital audience was truly global, but down nearly 60 per cent on the open session average. Not that I took it personally, you understand; the topic – ‘Dealing with Data in the Digital and Online Jewellery Trading Environment’ – sadly doesn’t seem to rock (pun intended) many jewellers’ boats. To my mind, that’s bonkers, as data can be gold dust if used correctly… or just dust if ignored. Before joining our industry, I worked in the FMCG and electrical appliance sectors, and my time there taught me two key data lessons: an opinion without data is just an opinion, and whether it’s big data or small data, if you don’t use it, it’s just data. My biggest shock on arriving in jewellery over 20 years ago, at Cookson Precious Metals (CPM), was the lack of independent market sales data and the seeming lack of appetite for market sales data – then I suppose what you’ve never had, you never miss! There was some consumer research available, but I didn’t have enough confidence in interview diary research, which offered more opinion than hard sales data. In the absence of any market data, we created our own at CPM, by counting the individual items in the Christmas windows of the leading retailers – based on the assumption that retailers give more window space to their better performing product categories. We usually counted around 10,000 items every year, then collated and formatted the data to share face-to-face with the respective retailers – “Here’s how your range looks compared to retailer A, B, C.”

It opened the dialogue, created cooperative relationships and helped us make business decisions round supply, channels, products, promotions and price points; it helped us reduce our risk and maximise any retail opportunities, but I missed the Growth from Knowledge data reports I was used to. As a jewellery business owner, you may see purchasing data as an unnecessary expense, or you might be waiting for our sector organisations to get together and produce our own market data, or perhaps you believe that using data can’t make a positive difference to your business performance – so why bother. There’s lots of free data out there if you’re prepared to spend time to find it; some is usable, some is informative, the majority just opinion, but combined, it provides food for thought, and planning your business decisions over the next few years will require a lot of thought in the absence of a crystal ball. Still too busy to seek it out? Then start with your own internal data around your business pain points; quick wins in these areas build confidence and increase the appetite for using more data to drive business improvement activities. It doesn’t have to be complicated, so keep it simple to begin with and avoid over complicating the process. For example, managing stock starts with three questions, the answers to which can improve your performance in stock turn, cash flow and buying process: * What percentage of your stock sells in the same year you put it into stock? * What percentage of your stock sells in the year after you put it into stock? * What percentage of your stock is three or more years old and growing a beard sitting in stock? If you’ve never used data or have stopped using data, here are five tips to get you started:

1. Use data that quickly address your current pain points 2. Do NOT use the data to support a preconceived idea 3. Avoid getting distracted by data discoveries unrelated to the task in hand 4. Do more with what you’ve got but remember rubbish in means rubbish out 5. If you haven’t got a system that collects your data, you need to GET ONE – the NAJ can help you identify reputable system suppliers for our sector JBN members have been sharing and using data to improve their retail businesses for years – they’ve used data to assist strategic decisions, such as opening new stores, relocating stores, refurbishing stores and closing stores. They’ve used it to assist operational decisions, such as sales space, stock management, gross margins and pricing. And they have used it tactically on product ranging, supplier selection and staff incentives. As JBNers know, data can be gold dust if used correctly or just dust if ignored.

For an annual subscription of £1,000+VAT, you and your business will benefit from the shared knowledge, experience and expertise of the JBN via: • Monthly Performance Reports - enabling you to benchmark your business against other retail jewellers • WhatsApp Market Group – for finding, buying and selling products and services. • Online Q&A Forum – whether you have a business issue or just seek guidance. You ask the question and the members answer • Educational Store Visits – see and hear what other jewellers are doing • Regional Group Meetings – to discuss the issues and opportunities you face, as well as develop new business skills • New Flash Service – receive relevant business and industry articles straight to your inbox • Member Business Surveys – on topics identified by the members • Plus – influence and shape the content of the Annual Retail Jewellers’ Congress For further information Visit naj.co.uk/JBN Email michael@thevalueinnovator.co.uk Call Michael Donaldson on 07817 305 122

Member Profile Do you now sell your jewellery mainly to the trade or do you also work on consumer commissions? I've been selling to the trade for about five years, but as my focus has shifted to fine jewellery, this is something I’ll be focusing more on in the year ahead, once my new ready-to-wear collection launches. I also do a lot of bespoke pieces, some of which come about through trade customers.

The Precious Lacemaker We spoke to Ruth Mary Chipperfield about her unconventional and inspiring jewellery journey. Where did you train? I'm completely self-taught. For me, the design always comes first. Then to create the design, I've either learned new skills or outsourced the work to goldsmiths, setters, casters, etc. It means I'm always thinking outside the box, and a lot of my bespoke clients come to me for something they've never seen before. In fact, I commonly get clients who don't even know what they want, so we have a conversation and figure it out together. I've recently done Kerry Gregory's Gemstones for Designers course, which has given me a really good working knowledge of gemstones, the law and how best to advise clients.

What prompted you to become a jewellery designer? And what came first, lace or jewellery? I started out in chemistry, but when I was diagnosed with narcolepsy, life took a turn. I was collapsing 30+ times a day, and my husband became my fulltime carer. I used the little time I had to teach myself to create jewellery, while also trying out other things, like lacemaking and macramé. I view jewellery as tiny sculptures, so I realised I could create tiny sculptures in whatever medium I liked and then cast them. So, my signature style of lace handstitched in precious metal was born. Gold is my favourite metal, but I also work in silver and platinum.

When were you an IJL Kickstarter and what did you gain from the experience? It was 2018. At the time, I exhibited a collection of contemporary silver jewellery, but much of the feedback suggested buyers liked the story of handstitched lace and the style of my designs but wanted to see it in fine jewellery. So, having spent the last three years focusing on bespoke design, I'm now designing my first fine-jewellery collection, which I’ll release to the trade in June 2022. But I thought I’d showcase a sneak peek for you here. Coming from a completely unconventional background, I've found it important to connect with the jewellery trade, so joining the NAJ was one of the first things I did.

Has your design inspiration remained consistent since the beginning – a signature look? Within the parameters of lace, how has your style developed over the years? The theme of handstitched lace in precious metal still runs strong, but while I used to create bigger statement pieces, I've now shifted to smaller more versatile pieces of fine jewellery with ethically mined gemstones. I don't think I’ll abandon the bigger sculptural pieces altogether, though. If there's a market for tiaras, tableware and chandeliers with a lace aesthetic, I’ll be delighted to create something. I mean, imagine a chandelier hanging in the entrance hall of a grand house, where each component started out with needle and thread, handstitched to create its form, before being cast in solid silver and adorned with sparkling gems!

Can you define your typical customer, either by demographics or attitude/style? Most of my customers are women between 40 and 60 who buy jewellery for themselves. Many of them have decided to leave corporate jobs and want completely different jewellery to align with their newfound confidence as an individual, not as someone who is part of a giant corporate structure. I also get mature brides come to me for wedding, engagement or hybrid rings. They tend to prioritise the rings they will wear daily over the wedding day itself, which is fleeting.

Where do you work from? I work in the front room of my house in Birmingham. The walls are blush pink, and it's full of quirky objects I've collected over the years that inspire me. It's never tidy. Enquiries: info@ruthmary.com or 07838683840

NAJ News

The Jeweller

Two weeks before Christmas, a who’s who of the UK jewellery industry came together in London for the welcome return of the Professional Jeweller Awards. Happily, NAJ members came away as big winners on the night.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

F Hinds Daniella Draper 77 Diamonds Bradley's Jewellers Holly Matthewson, Gecko Harriet Kelsall Bespoke Jewellery River Mounts

3 2

ith nominations in almost every category, it was always going to be a memorable evening for NAJ members. And several members celebrated winning the coveted crystal glass trophies. Members from all facets of the trade – supplier, retailer and designer – celebrated well-deserved wins. Lindsey Straughton, the NAJ’s head of communications and industry liaison, was there: “What a fantastic evening for NAJ members, and huge congratulations to all the winners and those nominated. For so many of our members to win awards is a testament to their hard work and commitment to quality – they all follow our code of Honesty, Integrity and Professionalism, and it’s demonstrated with this recognition. Thank you to Professional Jeweller for putting on such a brilliant evening.”

Celebrating the Best

And here are the NAJ member winners: Independent Fashion Jewellery Retailer of the Year (fewer than five stores) Harriet Kelsall Bespoke Jewellery Independent Fine Jewellery Retailer of the Year (fewer than five stores) Bradley’s Jewellers, York Multiple Fashion Jewellery Retailer of the Year (five or more stores) F Hinds

Jewellery Industry Supplier of the Year River Mounts Branded Jewellery Boutique of the Year Daniella Draper Young Jewellery Designer of the Year (under 30) Holly Mathewson (of Gecko Jewellery) Jewellery Team of the Year Lucy Quartermaine 7

Best New Store or Store Refurbishment Mappin & Webb (Kingston store) Retail Leader of the Year and Digital Innovator of the Year 77 Diamonds

Industry News

Spring 2022

Vicenzaoro – the Jewellery Boutique Show Always eagerly anticipated as a dazzling showcase of the latest trends in fine jewellery, Vicenzaoro is taking ‘current pandemic indicators’ into account to move from January to March

indful that Covid travel restrictions will mean fewer international attendees, the organisers of the Italian show have announced a new date: 17th to 21st March, 2022. This year, Vicenzaoro will once again collaborate with CIBJO – the World Jewellery Confederation – to hold the General Assembly, the final session of its 2021 Virtual Congress, which took place last November. This hybrid event, which will gather international delegates at the Vicenza Expo Centre and be livestreamed, will involve stakeholders from all over the world. The event takes global stock of the sector and of international industry standards for diamonds, coloured stones, pearls, gem

labs, precious metals, coral and responsible sourcing. It also is a chance to finalise the World Jewellery Confederation Education Foundation programme on responsible and sustainable activities within the sector and CIBJO's cooperation with the United Nations. On the eve of its General Assembly, CIBJO will give two public seminars at Vicenzaoro on responsible sourcing, social activism and sustainability in the jewellery sector. One deals with how, to meet the strong demand for fine jewellery and ongoing cultural change, retailers can show they’re committed to meeting consumer expectations by supporting sustainability initiatives. The other explores how the increased use of new production technologies enables higher precision in finished pieces and manufacturing processes as well as greater creativity. The show itself, as ever, demonstrates both perfectly – particularly in VO Vintage, a relatively new area open to the public, collectors and enthusiasts of vintage watches and jewellery. Here, show organiser IEG offers a response to the needs of Luxury Vintage, a fast-growing sector due to the recent push towards sustainable purchases and the role of watches as investment goods. Highlights from Vicenzaoro 2021

Matt Aminoff

Fope Men

Book Reviews

The Jeweller

If Santa didn’t bring you the deluxe coffee-table book of your dreams, a) have words and b) feast your eyes on these two mouth-watering titles. Then leave the magazine open on this page…

Diamonds: Diamond Stories By Anders Christian Madsen. Foreword by Edward Enninful Assouline.com, £70 This glittering coffee-table collaboration between the Natural Diamond Council and publisher Assouline showcases how diamonds transcend time, punctuate culture and continue to carry personal meaning and symbolism. The book opens with a foreword by Edward Enninful, who outlines his own relationship with diamonds via the lens of his position as editor of British Vogue. As a renowned stylist, he has observed how diamonds in fashion images and celebrity portraits have conveyed different messages over the decades. For him, diamonds represent luxury, glamour and aspiration,

“but the representation of those ideals are changing – so is the diamond.” The book’s introduction by Madsen takes Enninful’s view that you can wear Grandma’s diamonds with jeans and a T-shirt, that there are new and progressive ways – for boys as well as girls – to wear diamonds, and expands on it. Our new understanding of luxury is perfectly illustrated by an image of diamond-clad Marilyn Monroe as ‘boudoir babe’ juxtaposed with a similarly attired Madonna three decades on – decidedly all about empowerment and independence. A recent Vogue cover of Billie Eilish redefines further what corsets and diamonds mean. Whether you accept or question the author's premise, there’s no denying the power and glamour of the very many full-page fashion images that follow. And you’d have to agree with Madsen’s summing up that diamonds are “universal symbols for anyone who dares to dream.”

Cartier and Islamic Art In Search of Modernity Thames & Hudson, £45 Inspiration for jewellery can come from all manner of sources; in the case of Louis Cartier (1875-1942), the grandson of Cartier founder Louis-Francois, Islamic art was a particular draw. The impassioned collector and arts patron was especially attracted by the geometric shapes, colour combinations and motifs he saw in Persian book arts. Published to accompany a major exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris and the Dallas Museum of Art, this sumptuous book looks at the influence of Islamic art on Cartier’s work, how motifs and colours of that world found their way into amazing pieces of jewellery down the decades. For the jewellery/art historians – as well as Cartier fans – there is plenty to get your teeth into, with illustrated essays around the subject to put Louis Cartier’s passion into context. For instance, in the early 20th century, the study of Islamic art became an established discipline, and the fall of the Ottoman Empire in 1922 saw works of art arrive in Paris, inspiring fashion designers such as Paul Poiret as well as dealers, collectors, historians, perfumers, jewellers, interior designers and publishers. Images in the book range from large, detailed close-ups of gorgeously vibrant pieces – artefacts as well as jewellery – from the Cartier archive, as well as black and white photographs used by the house for a 1913 exhibition.

Every Gem is unique......

…….We create the story info@ntinga.co.uk • www.ntinga.co.uk • +44(0)208 959 6550

Opinion

The Jeweller

the Last Word... goes to John Henn

good stuff for charity, and I met some great like-minded jewellers. We considered people over 35 too old to join! I took – and passed – the NAG diploma courses, plus the FGA and DGA at the Birmingham School of Jewellery. Later I joined the NAG council, became a director, then chair of Education, Membership and Valuations committees for varying periods, followed by Association chair 2002 to 2004. I shared some memorable times with CEO Michael Hoare (a great guy, sadly missed), treasurer Frank Wood and vice-chair Jonathan Lambert. In 2016, I joined the British Allied Trade Federation board with the Independent brief on behalf of the NAJ.

Sixth generation jeweller, managing director of TA Henn in Wolverhampton and our man at CIBJO goes under the spotlight. Who has been the biggest influence on your working life? My father – he and I worked together from my start until around 2000 when he retired. It wasn't an easy working relationship as I was in the store while he ran the company. It left me playing catch-up in later years.

Tell us about your career journey in the retail jewellery world I joined the company as it was sinking in 1980, spent five years losing less and less money until we broke even in 1985. I went to the CFH college in Lausanne to understand the structure of a successful business. The key lesson I took away was that American jewellers earned more money from the interest they charged on the accounts clients had than they did on the sale of the items.

I've represented the NAG, latterly the NAJ, annually at CIBJO since 2002. It’s shown me the good and the bad, the selfless and the selfish and the companies that care along with those that don't know the meaning of the word. Are we doomed? I hope not; the new generations have a conscience, something that has been sadly missing from much of our trade. However, the future looks to be supporting the low-carbon artisan, so maybe the pendulum will swing back.

What three words describe you best... in your view and according to others? Reasonably honest (I’ve told clients what they want to hear, usually that I'll chastise someone in the workshop although I knew they were swamped… so the odd white lie), considerate and, hopefully, kind.

Looking back at your career, what one thing would you do differently if you had your time over? I'd have liked to have worked for a company at the top of its game, which might have given me the business tools I lacked in the early days.

How long have you been an active member of the NAG – now the NAJ?

If you could sit down with anyone from the jewellery industry for a serious conversation, who would it be and what would you talk about?

In 1985, I became a member of the NAG’s Young Executive section – we did some

The CEO of the London Bullion Market Association – we’d work out a plan to bring

into line or exclude the bullion dealers of the world who persistently fail to toe the ethically sound line. I'd like regulatory companies like this to grow some teeth. It’s not good enough just to turn a blind eye.

Tell us something not many people know about you Aged 49, I climbed Mont Blanc from St Gervais with a great friend, and a husbandand-wife guide team, then skied off the summit.

You sat on a 2021 CIBJO Congress panel – what was the theme of the discussion? ‘The Language of Sustainable and Responsible Business in Jewellery.’ We concluded that we need to help new companies become better informed, while serial offenders and opportunists need to be brought into line. The NAJ has some great plans due to be launched next year for fledgling UK jewellers. However, there’s no helping the serial offenders; they just need to be exposed and let public opinion shut them down. Misinformation is a global problem; we should be encouraged to speak the truth, not be vilified just because it’s difficult to hear.

If you could wave a magic wand, what would be the one thing that you would change about the jewellery industry? Creating a level playing field, enabling the quality and integrity of most companies to shine though.

Outside of your family, what is your proudest moment to date? It was being part of a team in 2012 that helped my friend Simon Cupitt (of Cupitt Jewellers) achieve his Land’s End to John O'Groats dream, albeit on motorcycles, him without speech and only one functioning leg, while suffering from motor neurone disease. He died in early 2013.

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