BarberSociety Magazine int. special A.I. Winter issue 2023/2024 (in English)

WILL ROBOTS MAKE THE CUT? TITAN BARBER CREATIVITY IS MY DRIVING FORCE RAISE YOUR PRICE INS & OUTS ABOUT RATES DUTCH TALENT WINS THE BIG SHOT AWARD INTERVIEW WITH LOUISE VLAAR MEN’S FACE CARE BARBERSOCIETY MAGAZINE

WINTER 2023/2024 | #18 | € 15

1

save the date

Ready for the ultimate barber event?

Sunday 14 april, Amsterdam Open to everyone interested in the barber industry! @barbersocietylive

ONLINE TICKET SALES START IN 2024

4 6 10 16 50 52 56 61 68 72

Signature.ai X Olivier Teepe @shotbyolivier

76 78 86 90 92 98

EDITORIAL AWARD-WINNING BARBER PUSHING THE PROFESSION FORWARD Interview with John Carmona aka Titan Barber MEET THE GEN AI ARTIST OF THIS BARBERSOCIETY MAGAZINE EDITION Q&A with Olivier Teepe TRENDS Giovanni Uktolseja, Kervin Hiew, Kevin Nguyen, Darius Rezamand, Paco López, Reed Studio, Christian Huber, Javier Ventoso, Suzi O’Brien, Salvador Oliver, Mercedes Paginton, Baldy, Tommaso Ricci, Peter Healy, Orlando da Silva WILL ROBOTS MAKE THE CUT? PRODUCT NEWS Grooming, In Shop, Lifestyle CREATIVE TALENT WINS THE BIG SHOT AWARD Interview with Louise Vlaar MEN’S FACE CARE Brand bite Re.solve Skin Barbers & Face care

62 65

BARBERING MEANS BUSINESS TO ASTON LAFON BACKGROUND: RAISE THE PRICE Why price increase in the barbering industry is a must How do I determine my barbering rates?

How do I calculate the cost price?

72 74 75

ELEVATE YOUR CRAFT: WHY NOW IS THE TIME TO RAISE YOUR PRICES Column Dennis van Lierop BARBERS & THE CITY Barbershops & Hotspots in Tokyo ALL-IN THE FAMILY Interview with Wendy Rose FROM FADES TO FORTUNE… Column Chris Foster THIS BARBERPOLE IS TRAVELLING TO… Keune Barber Connect (FR) Uppercut Deluxe event (NL) COLOPHON

3

Marc van de Hare with long hair, image including hairstyle created by AI

EDITORIAL

4

Welcome to our AI-powered edition!

The AI world is developing at a breakneck pace. Take, for example, ChatGPT, which reached 100 million users within just two months, while platforms like YouTube and Instagram took years to do the same. This rapid growth is also making other sectors think, such as the art world. Is art created by AI still art?

Have organizations running creative competitions, such as photography competitions, thought about entries made

by AI yet? An example of this is the German photographer Boris Eldagsen, who submitted an AI-created image at the Sony World Photography Awards and won. However, he did not accept the prize, to raise awareness about the use of AI in creative competitions.

For us, a reason to take a closer look at the role of AI in the

Human input and expression remain essential hairdressing industry. What opportunities does this technological development offer? But also, what are its limitations? In this edition, we try to answer these questions.

‘Real’ content and AI-powered content alternate. There are even several hair collections included in this edition that focus on AI. The AI images were created by a renowned AI expert and artist, a collaboration between human and machine. Read his interesting perspective on page 10. Part of the textual content in this winter edition was generated by Brainvine, an advanced AI program which we used for text generation and editing. All AI texts have been rewritten and edited by our editors. It has become an edition in which we find ourselves at the intersection of human creativity and AI technology. So not everything you see in this edition is real, except for the work. But rest assured, the interviews and photos with ‘real’ barbers and experts are 100% authentic!

My opinion What do I think about it myself?

Like all new developments, AI offers both opportunities and threats. It can make our lives more efficient and improve them, such as in healthcare, but it can also cost jobs or be used for malicious purposes. Yet it is up to us, humans, how we use this technology.

Hopefully, this special edition will inspire you to see the opportunities and to get to work with them in your barbershop.

While making this publication, AI proved to be a valuable tool.

Texts were improved, shortened, translated, etc., in no time.

Sometimes this also produced surprising sentences and stimulated our own creativity. But we noticed that you have to be careful that the texts do not become uniform. It is precisely the portrayal of fun or special words used by the interviewee that give ‘juice’ to an article. In short; I see AI as a powerful tool, a handy aid, but human input and expression remain essential. Nothing is more satisfying than coming up with something yourself, articulating it, making an effort, using your own intelligence, and creating your own style. So, remain critical of the role of this technology and keep thinking for yourself.

In the spotlight Two artistic and passionate barbers who are super talented and for whom no AI tool can match their creativity are John Carmona, alias Titan Barber, and the pride of the Netherlands, Louise Vlaar. Both managed to win a Best Men’s Shot Award at the prestigious One Shot Awards in the US this year.

Read their inspiring interviews.

In addition, John shares an interesting view on price increases in the barber industry as does our columnist Dennis van Lierop.

For this theme, we also had an interesting conversation with Aston LaFon, the founder of the brand 18.21 Man Made, check page 68. Take advantage of it!

Holidays and more The holidays are approaching when men want to pamper themselves, an excellent opportunity to introduce facial care treatments. Discover in this edition how other barbers tackle this and learn more about Re.solve Skin, especially developed for barbers. In addition, you will find the column by Chris Foster, this time about personal branding, a beautiful American all-in-thefamily story, Barbers & the City Tokyo, a photo report of two barber events, product news, and the latest hair trends.

After the digital approach of this edition - with sometimes a twist I look forward to seeing you in person at BarberSociety Live on Sunday, April 14. Keep an eye on our website at the beginning of 2024 for Battle registrations and ticket sales.

I wish you a creative, inspiring, and successful New Year and hope for a better world.

Marc van de Hare Founder BarberSociety Owner of Van de Hare Amsterdam Barbers PS: This special AI Winter edition of BarberSociety Magazine can be purchased in print in English and Dutch at www.barbersociety.com/magazine.

While stock lasts.

5

AWARD-WINNING BARBER PUSHING THE PROFESSION FORWARD 6

Photo: © David Ford @titan_barber

INTERVIEW

In 2019, John Carmona, also known as Titan Barber, was steadily building his reputation in the barbering world.

He had been working as a stylist for around 10 years and was travelling to teach classes for hair industry giant Paul Mitchell. That year, John had the opportunity to connect with the BarberSociety team at a show in Romania. Though starting to make a name for himself regionally, he had no idea that his career was about to skyrocket to barbershop stardom on the global stage.

Creativity is my driving force

Meet John Carmona aka Titan Barber

Just three short years later, John boasts nearly 100,000 Instagram followers, multiple successful barbershops, prestigious international awards, and a seat at the table with leading brands like Wahl.

His relentless work ethic, keen eye for photography, and dedication to honing his craft have launched him into the upper echelon of barbering’s elite.

Most recently, John took home the coveted 2023 Hot Shot Men’s Award for the most creative and skilled barbers worldwide.

For John, this win offered confirmation that his artistic talents were being recognized at the highest levels. “I’ve constantly been trying to prove to myself that I belong,” he shares. “Every time I step on a stage, I see it as pocketing the next victory.”

Leveraging Social Media John credits consistency in posting unique, daily cuts showcasing his signature style on social media for accelerating his growth over the past year.

He went from around 50,000 Instagram followers to over 90,000 in just months. Though an introvert at heart, he has

learned to “turn it on” publicly and build an authentic connection with his growing audience.

That said, John doesn’t believe social media prowess alone makes a great barber. “If your goal is just to work in the shop day in and day out, you can absolutely be successful without a massive following,” he explains. “But you do need some presence, so clients know you care.” For John, social media enhances his skills instead of replacing them.

When asked about advice for aspiring barbers looking to grow their social media presence, John emphasized finding your unique voice. “If you look up hashtag barber on Instagram and you scroll through your feed, you’re going to see hundreds of incredible haircuts that are done really, really well,” he said.

“But after a while, they all start to blur together. And it’s not because they’re not great haircuts.

It’s because we’re used to it.”

John believes barbers need to offer something fresh and different to stand out, not just technical talent. “You have to find a point of difference nowadays.

7

Simply being good at cutting hair isn’t sufficient for building a social media following,” he noted. John suggests that consistently showing personality and passion, beyond just providing quality haircuts, is key in the current environment.

© Noor Muhammad

Honing his craft Technical talent remains critical in John’s mind. As part of the elite Wahl Artistic Team, he helps design new tools and market hair trends globally. He also teaches specialized cutting classes independently, valuing

the creative freedom away from brand restrictions.

“That’s where my creativity really shines,” John says.

For John, creativity is essential for barbers seeking fulfillment in their work. “You have two types of people in this industry,” he observes. “You have people that are okay with being good enough, and creative people who will never feel they’re good enough.”

As a creative, John is never fully satisfied - but that constant drive for improvement pushes him to stay at the top of his game.

When asked to expand on the role of creativity in barbering, John emphasized that it provides a “huge mental fulfillment” for those who value it. “It’s that thing that drives you and keeps you going,” he said. “If you don’t constantly find ways to be creative and put yourself into positions to grow, I think that I can speak for other creative people when I say that you end up burning out.”

John believes exercising creativity in all its forms, whether barbering, music, art, or others, is like a muscle you have to constantly work. “The more I make time for myself and the more I take care of myself in that aspect, the easier it is for me to be there for other people,” he reflected. For him, creativity is essential for finding passion and avoiding burnout in the barbering industry.

Raising prices John’s expertise, work ethic, and creativity are evident in his successful shops too. His Denverbased Barber Theory locations recently raised prices to keep up with inflation and cost of living in the area. Though some regulars pushed back initially, many ultimately respected the change.

“When you charge more, it forces you to be better at what you do and take more care,” John points out. He believes barbers industry-

8

pursuing his lifelong passion for creativity in all its forms.

“I found happiness when I stopped trying to copy others and focused on what excited me,” he reflects.

wide should continue raising standards and pricing in tandem to properly value their skills. “If everybody is able to not only raise quality but also prices, it puts the power back in the barber’s hands.”

John feels strongly that barbers shouldn’t undervalue themselves, even if it means having difficult conversations with long-time customers. ‘‘We want to be at the top of the price bracket out here.

We had a couple of people push back, but a lot of times, you’ll find that it’s the people who you’ve been giving deals to that don’t value your services. I want people in my chair that care about the way they look and that are willing to put value into that part of their image.” By commanding rates that reflect their expertise, he believes barbers can gain more control and better compensate for the demands of the industry.

The future of barbering and AI Looking ahead, John sees mastery of versatile cutting techniques as essential for barbers to stay relevant in the evolving industry.

With more women opting for short hairstyles, he believes softer, personalized cuts will grow in popularity compared to harsh

lines and high-contrast fades.

John also envisions barbershops becoming more inclusive and catering to all genders moving forward.

On the technology front, John doesn’t see AI overtaking the “love and passion” of human barbers. “If I look at an original painting versus a print, I’ll value the original more because you can see the artist’s passion,” he illustrates. However, he thinks AI could assist barbers with administrative tasks like booking and scheduling.

John also predicts online education will become more critical for barbers to expand their reach and impact. “Being able to mentor people when I’m not able to necessarily be in front of them, I think would be a huge step in my career,” he said.

He aims to create digital training content to share his specialized techniques at scale.

Pursuing his passions When asked about his own future, John mentions potentially expanding into photography and launching his own product line.

But above all, he aims to keep

For aspiring barbers hoping to follow his path, John stresses playing to your unique strengths. “If you try to fit a mold made for someone else, you miss the point,” he advises. “Focus on what you’re good at and what makes you happy.”

John also believes comparing yourself to barbers at the top of their game on social media can be dangerous. “People don’t post the struggles they went through to get where they are,” he cautions. “You have to realize you aren’t owed anything – you have to work for everything.”

The road ahead Beyond social media, John credits his business partner Eric with providing invaluable support as he’s built his brand and travelled more for events and education.

Together, they’ve focused on growing the name and reputation of Barber Theory Studios in Denver. With barbering as his lifelong passion, John sees himself continuing to build his business empire well into the future.

John’s journey proves that with dedication and drive, barbers can build thriving careers and international reputations. He went from teaching classes locally to winning global awards and leading education for top brands in just a few years. We can’t wait to see what this passionate, artistic barber accomplishes next.

9

Q &A

MEET THE GEN AI ARTIST OF THIS BARBERSOCIETY MAGAZINE EDITION OLIVIER TEEPE

10

© Olivier Teepe

AI expert Olivier Teepe is a visionary Dutch artist who is always pushing boundaries in his photography and digital art. After achieving his Master of Fine Arts and founding his own creative agency, Olivier became fascinated with the potential of AI and began experimenting with various AI tools and algorithms, embracing its power in art. He is now known for his unique blend of human intuition, photography and artificial intelligence, creating stunning works.

Having also been involved as an artist in the further development of the well-known AI program DALL-E and gaining recognition for his AI art, he is invited nationally and internationally as a keynote speaker.

We are very honoured that he has contributed to this special edition of BarberSociety Magazine, the first AI-powered trade magazine in the Netherlands and beyond. Several images crafted and assisted by AI are his work. We spoke with him about this intriguing and controversial topic and how AI enriches his art.

11

12

© Olivier Teepe

AI will never replace me, but rather makes me more and more valuable and unique What is AI? “An AI image is an image created with the help of computer-controlled intelligence.

The software uses algorithms to create images that can for instance closely resemble real photos, yet can be completely generated by the computer. The AI learns from various real images to represent reality as accurately as possible. It is basically a prediction mode in it’s core.”

When did you first encounter AI? “Back in 1991, we were working with a very small research team on AI at the Art School in Utrecht.

At the time, it was about very simple predictive models on an IBM computer that you could converse with. In the years that followed, I experimented a bit; making video clips, researching things, testing beta editing programmes, etc. My interest in innovative technologies was sparked then and has always been present since then.

About two years ago, I was invited

by OpenAI to join the Artist Program to extensively beta test DALL-E (ed.: an AI that can generate images from text) and to examine and take out biases in terms of diversity and inclusivity.

Adjustments needed to be made before the public launch. Since last year, AI development has accelerated massively, millions of people are using ChatGPT, and we are already working with the DALL-E 3 program. Interesting

detail: DALL-E 2 was trained on a dataset of 12 trillion (!) images.”

Fear of this new technological development?

“We knew AI would change art, but at what cost? There are ethical issues, such as biases and copyrights. Some in the cultural sector don’t see it as art, but as a trick.Back in the time of paintings, this was also said about early photography. But think about Photoshop. Photographers quickly discovered that it was a very useful tool. Fear of new technology has always been there. My humble opinion? Fully embrace what’s new and might look threatening. AI will never replace me, but rather makes me more and more valuable and unique. With AI, you discover new insights that you might have overlooked. It accelerates your creative process and can provide inspiration. However human expertise and decision-making remain crucial. In short, I see AI as a fantastic creative partner in the form of just a tool.”

How did you start using AI in your work?

“The fact that my brain was stimulated by the idea that I could create images with a predictive model made me think: ‘What if I could train an AI with my own photography?’ Every time I wanted something that didn’t exist yet, and in the weeks and months that followed, it would be developed. I wanted

to integrate all the knowledge and experience I had gained into one way of creating where I wanted to maintain full control over every single pixel, color, light, and material.

Kickstart.ai commissioned me to create a series of four unique works in tangible form of numbered signed fine art prints (‘The Dimensions of Belonging’).

In addition, I create limited edition fine art prints and AI artworks on commission from a curator. I also regularly receive invitations to speak as the Gen AI expert at international, and also national events. It’s actually just like in the barber profession, the more you do something with passion, the more you will master it.”

With AI, you have to ‘prompt’, what does that exactly mean?

“When creating images with Gen AI, you need to know exactly which words you use for the commands. This is called ‘Prompt Query Language’, a new language to ask AI precise questions and combine different prompts for the desired result. Formulating prompts correctly in the right order is an art in itself. Without experience, it’s really difficult to achieve the exact desired result.”

What are the benefits of co-creation with AI? “We are now at a tipping point where on one hand you can save enormous costs of productions 13

© Olivier Teepe

I encourage you to try to understand AI 14

with AI and on the other hand often also achieve a better creative end result. This means you have more budget left for research, concept, Big idea, and process. We can train our private model on literally any niche area for a brand and then create infinite images for, for example campaign and communication purposes.

Imagine: you train an empty AI with 10,000 hair collections.

You therefore create a unique AI model that is able to generate images of hairstyles based on recent datasets, unlike most open AI systems that work with rapidly ageing datasets. You could also train an AI with a dataset purely focused on hair. Think of texture, model, cutting styles. That way, it becomes the best tool of its kind.

Training solely on your own (and owned) data is also called ‘Private AI’. It’s more authentic, nuanced, and efficient than public AI. This technology is customised, each application is unique. So you do need a high technical expertise team and strategic content marketing insights for that.”

What are the dangers of AI? “Dangers include identity fraud, for example. Also consider cloning an entire instagram account of, say, a well-known barber including voice, videos and photos which is thus totally fake but with which someone with bad intentions can get things done. Even an entire barbershop can be digitally created in AI. Just check out the barbershops in this edition at ‘Barbers & the City Tokyo’. In addition, hair collections can be created in AI and submitted for competitions. It’s becoming increasingly difficult to distinguish what’s real and what’s fake.

And then there is the copyrights story. AI’s can be trained on all kinds of images such as works of art. These are images that may be protected and for which no permission has been given by the creator for use. The chance that AI creates something

identical is small. But the risk exists that it creates something that resembles the style of an artist. This has already led to lawsuits in the UK and USA. Countries are now investigating how to deal with this.”

Meanwhile, you are partnering with a private AI startup, Signature.ai. Can you tell us something about that?

“I want to create unique work together with AI, but preferably without connection to the internet, like open AI does, for example. In a close collaboration with a team of design and AI specialists, the Signature.ai model was developed. This allows you to have your own AI trained per brand, in a secure environment where the copyrights of all creations are with you as the brand. Part of our approach is ‘Human in the Loop’, which means that expert human input is always needed; always a creative director and someone from the legal team who thinks along live and protects what you want to develop and create.

As a creative consultant, I now support international luxury brands with AI solutions. I help them with everything from advice to concept to production. Think of print and digital advertising campaigns, instore materials, and online expressions. This increases the quality of their work and saves huge costs. And makes everything ultimately measurable.”

Many people feel threatened

by AI and what it means for their profession. What is your take on this?

“If you haven’t started exploring and embracing AI in the past year, you risk being left behind or even replaced. Think of the creative sector, such as photography, voice acting, journalism, coding, and design, but also in the medical world. For example, AI can start recognising early disease states, such as cancer or Alzheimer’s, much more accurately than humans.

Whether barbers can be replaced? I don’t see that happening at all. Many people see their barber as a trustworthy person with whom you have a chat, share a laugh and a tear. Just basically like a pub owner.

Emotion, empathy and sheer creativity are human traits that cannot be replaced by AI.” How do you think AI could be applied in a barbershop?

“It can help you with insights, customer contact, newsletters, and social media. It can automate and forecast your appointments and send reminders with even more know-how and intelligence than the current systems.

It can even go further with personalized skincare and haircare advice, facial analyses, and personal advice.

I am also thinking, for example, of a beard trimmer that recognises your customer’s hair length, hair type and preferred hairstyle and automatically adjusts it accordingly. Or a mirror that shows different hairstyles that would suit the customer.

AI can even predict what your customers need; what are they missing, what do they really want, what products does a customer need? So dive into the world of AI, it can only give you insights.”

What’s next?

“There is no turning back. AI is developing rapidly, also in video, music, voice and integrated solutions. By the time you read this, and the ink is dry, there will already be new developments.

AI is providing a giant technological leap forward and is a great tool for all kinds of tasks. I encourage you to try to understand AI and work with it in a way that is positive for the future, humanity and the planet.”

More information: www.signature.ai www.olivierteepe.com @shotbyolivier 15

FUTURE MAKERS ‘23

GIOVANNI UKTOLSEJA

16

FOR WAHL

Collection: Future Makers ‘23 Hair: Giovanni Uktolseja (NL) Photography: Wahl Professional @GioTheNewKid

THE NETHERLANDS

Collection: Future Makers ‘23 Hair: Kervin Hiew (MY) Photography: Wahl Professional @kerv_thbx

FUTURE MAKERS ‘23

KERVIN HIEW

MALAYSIA

FOR WAHL

17

FUTURE MAKERS ‘23

KEVIN NGUYEN

18

FOR WAHL

Collection: Future Makers ‘23 Hair: Kevin Nguyen, Wahl Education USA Photography: Wahl Professional @yakuzabarber

USA

Collection: 70s Blue Print Hair: Darius Rezamand (UK) Photography: Andy Kruczek Make up: Katy Bird Assistant Stylist: Kaylah Hall Models: Michael Mcgoldrick @darius_barbering @devros_barbers

70S BLUE PRINT

DARIUS REZAMAND

UNITED KINGDOM

19

ESSENCE

PACO LÓPEZ

20

Collection: Essence Hair: Paco López, The Barber Shop by Paco López (ES) Photography: David Arnal & Paco López MUA: Paco López Styling: Mikoto @thebarbershopbypacolopez

SPAIN

21

Collection: Essence Hair: Paco López, The Barber Shop by Paco López (ES) Photography: David Arnal & Paco López MUA: Paco López Styling: Mikoto @thebarbershopbypacolopez

22

Collection: Essence Hair: Paco López, The Barber Shop by Paco López (ES) Photography: David Arnal & Paco López MUA: Paco López Styling: Mikoto @thebarbershopbypacolopez

23

Collection: Essence Hair: Paco López, The Barber Shop by Paco López (ES) Photography: David Arnal & Paco López MUA: Paco López Styling: Mikoto @thebarbershopbypacolopez

3066

REED STUDIO

24

Collection: 3066 Hair: Reed Studio (AU) Photography: Leigh Winsor @reedstudio_

AUSTRALIA

Collection: Beardmen Hair: Christian Huber (CH) Photography: Levie Poeiert @chrishuber_

BEARDMEN

CHRISTIAN HUBER

SWITZERLAND

25

26

Collection: Beardmen Hair: Christian Huber (CH) Photography: Levie Poeiert @chrishuber_

27

Collection: Beardmen Hair: Christian Huber (CH) Photography: Levie Poeiert @chrishuber_

ANALOGYK

JAVIER VENTOSO

28

Collection: Analogyk Hair: Javier Ventoso (ES) Hair assistant: Oscar Ventoso Photography: Esteban Roca Mua: Bea Torres y Odu Martínez Styling:Julia Asensio y Javier ventoso Communication: Óscar Martínez @javier_ventoso @oscarmr76

SPAIN

29

Collection: Analogyk Hair: Javier Ventoso (ES) Hair assistant: Oscar Ventoso Photography: Esteban Roca Mua: Bea Torres y Odu Martínez Styling:Julia Asensio y Javier ventoso Communication: Óscar Martínez @javier_ventoso @oscarmr76

THE TAKEOVER

SUZI O’BRIEN

30

Collection: The Takeover Hair Stylist and Creative Direction: Suzi O’Brien, Studio X (AU) Photography: Leigh Winsor Hair Assistance: Steph Chops Wardrobe: Josie Mcmanus Make up: Sophie Harris @suzi_thestudiox, @leighwinsor

AUSTRALIA

31

Collection: The Takeover Hair Stylist and Creative Direction: Suzi O’Brien, Studio X (AU) Photography: Leigh Winsor Hair Assistance: Steph Chops Wardrobe: Josie Mcmanus Make up: Sophie Harris @suzi_thestudiox, @leighwinsor

32

Collection: The Takeover Hair Stylist and Creative Direction: Suzi O’Brien, Studio X (AU) Photography: Leigh Winsor Hair Assistance: Steph Chops Wardrobe: Josie Mcmanus Make up: Sophie Harris @suzi_thestudiox, @leighwinsor

Collection: The Takeover Hair Stylist and Creative Direction: Suzi O’Brien, Studio X (AU) Photography: Leigh Winsor Hair Assistance: Steph Chops Wardrobe: Josie Mcmanus Make up: Sophie Harris @suzi_thestudiox, @leighwinsor

Inspiration “The inspiration for my collection was Artificial Intelligence.

In 2023, artificial intelligence has emerged as a ubiquitous force, captivating the world with its capabilities. As a creative, I find myself drawn to the profound intersection between Ai and the art form.

This fusion of technology and creativity inspires my collection, pushing the boundaries to explore new perspectives and experiment with an AI population takeover and a new race of artificial people, blurring the lines between humans and extra-terrestrial.

Each look has carefully been crafted to give the idea of something unusual about each individual, forcing the observer to take a second look. From gravity defying hair, extra-large shoulders and tiny waists to a hostile stare and bad intensions. Are they human or are they not?”

33

ART.IFICIAL INTELLIGENCE, (ART.I) COLLECTION

SALVADOR OLIVER

34

Collection: ART.ificial intelligence, (ART.i) Collection Hair: Salvador Oliver, La Barbería de Oliver (ES) Hair Assistant: Monica Moreno Photography: Juan Francisco Pagán Retouche: Javier Villalabeitia MUA: Monica Moreno Styling: Visori Fashionart Products: Tahe Advanced Barber @Salvador_Oliver__, @labarberiadeoliver

SPAIN

Collection: ART.ificial intelligence, (ART.i) Collection Hair: Salvador Oliver, La Barbería de Oliver (ES) Hair Assistant: Monica Moreno Photography: Juan Francisco Pagán Retouche: Javier Villalabeitia MUA: Monica Moreno Styling: Visori Fashionart Products: Tahe Advanced Barber @Salvador_Oliver__, @labarberiadeoliver

Salvador Oliver: “The sheer speed at which technology is advancing opens before us a scenario as astonishing as it is unsettling: a technological singularity in which algorithms, computer networks and robots are capable of transcending their own limits and creating new generations of increasingly powerful and sophisticated machines.

This cycle repeats itself over and over again, leading us directly into the explosion of artificial intelligence, a future in which intelligent machines far surpass human capabilities.

It is highly likely that the technological singularity will occur in no more than five years, at which point machines will be capable of selfprogramming without the need for human involvement. All of this poses significant challenges for our society, starting with deciding how far we are willing to go in this race for technological progress and what kind of future we want to build in the era of intelligent machines.”

35

BALDY X MERCEDES PAGINTON

BALDY X MERCEDES PAGINTON

36

Collection: Baldy X Mercedes Paginton Hair: Mercedes Paginton (UK) Photography: Liam Oakes @baldysbarbers, @mercedespaginton

UNITED KINGDOM

37

Collection: Baldy X Mercedes Paginton Hair: Baldy (UK) Photography: Liam Oakes @baldysbarbers, @mercedespaginton

EARTH

TOMMASO RICCI

38

Collection: Earth Hair: Tommaso Ricci (IT) Photography: Peet Virieloe Styling: Giulia Rossi @tommaso_ricci__

ITALY

39

Collection: Earth Hair: Tommaso Ricci (IT) Photography: Peet Virieloe Styling: Giulia Rossi @tommaso_ricci__

40

Collection: Earth Hair: Tommaso Ricci (IT) Photography: Peet Virieloe Styling: Giulia Rossi @tommaso_ricci__

41

Collection: Earth Hair: Tommaso Ricci (IT) Photography: Peet Virieloe Styling: Giulia Rossi @tommaso_ricci__

READ BETWEEN THE LINES

PETER HEALY

42

Collection: Read between the Lines Hair & styling: Peter Healy (UK) Photography: Liam Oakes @healyhair_

UNITED KINGDOM

43

Collection: Read between the Lines Hair & styling: Peter Healy (UK) Photography: Liam Oakes @healyhair_

44

Collection: Read between the Lines Hair & styling: Peter Healy (UK) Photography: Liam Oakes @healyhair_

Collection: Extravaganza Hair: Orlando da Silva (SR) Photography: Derek Rezone Styling: Maria Pinas @Orlando.da.silva_

EXTRAVAGANZA

ORLANDO DA SILVA

SURINAME

45

46

Collection: Extravaganza Hair: Orlando da Silva (SR) Photography: Derek Rezone Styling: Maria Pinas @Orlando.da.silva_

47

Collection: Extravaganza Hair: Orlando da Silva (SR) Photography: Derek Rezone Styling: Maria Pinas @Orlando.da.silva_

48

Collection: Extravaganza Hair: Orlando da Silva (SR) Photography: Derek Rezone Styling: Maria Pinas @Orlando.da.silva_

49

Collection: Extravaganza Hair: Orlando da Silva (SR) Photography: Derek Rezone Styling: Maria Pinas @Orlando.da.silva_

© Olivier Teepe

B AC KG R O U N D

MAKE THE CUT? Provided by Salonhub

Rarely has humanity been so concerned about technological advancements as with the rapid developments in artificial intelligence (AI) we are currently witnessing.

People fear that jobs will disappear as these robots could easily and effectively take over human tasks. Copywriters, administrative staff, marketers, but also doctors are worried about these developments. But what about the world of barbering? In the long run, could robots take over hairdressing work?

50

Regarding the question of whether long hair, a gray tint, or a balding head looks good?

Judge for yourself: Robot at the barber chair?

The answer to whether artificial intelligence can take over all tasks in a barbershop is simple: no.

Cutting and coloring can currently only be done by human hands, as cutting a hairstyle or beard, just like coloring, is such specific work that it remains an insurmountable task for a robot for the time being.

Social aspects important to the customer There is also another important issue that it remains to be seen whether robots will be able to satisfy in the future.

This concerns social contact.

Customers value the interaction, personal advice, and skills of an experienced barber.

Human barbers have the creativity, intuition, and flexibility to create complex hairstyles and deal with unexpected situations. It will be particularly difficult to replace that complete human experience. In addition, the social chat with the barber is also just very enjoyable.

What use do robots have then?

So will the rise of artificial intelligence bypass the barbering industry altogether?

No. Artificial intelligence can indeed contribute positively to barbershop operations.

The most famous robot at the moment is ChatGPT. This robot can easily and quickly provide answers to various questions based on search engines and results. For example, a visitor to a barbershop could consult

ChatGPT prior to their appointment. The customer might want to quickly know what the trends are for the upcoming winter to discuss with their barber.

Help with choosing a hairstyle For instance, a robot could be used to determine in advance which direction you want to go with your hairstyle. Does long hair suit you? What do you look like when gray hair starts to dominate? Is a bald head a curse or a blessing? What do you look like without a beard?

The robot Hairstyle AI (www.hairstyleai.com) offers the possibility to answer these questions. You start by uploading at least 15 photos and then the robot gets to work. We took the test and after about an hour and a half, about 30 different hairstyles rolled out. Bald, long hair, grey locks, curls, the popular ‘man bun’, almost every possibility was covered.

Robot is not a replacement, but a supplement Ultimately, we can determine that there are certainly robot-driven tools that can be useful in a barbershop.

However, there is so much more to consider. Think about the social aspect, advice from an experienced barber, and the professional cutting of a hairstyle or beard. Hairdressers and barbers will keep robots out of the barbershop for the time being, and we as visitors are quite happy about that.

Hairstyle with long hair, created by a robot

The grey hairstyle

And finally: bald 51

MURDOCK LONDON KINGS ROAD BLACK TEA COLLECTION

Get set for a handsome Christmas with the Kings Road Black Tea Collection from Murdock London.

The best-selling Black Tea fragrance is suitable for every occasion, and for Christmas 2023 it is conveniently stowed in a signature Murdock blue washbag.

Strengthen the hair with new Black Tea Strengthening Shampoo, cleanse with the Black Tea Body Wash and finish with the Black Tea Deodorant and Cologne. The range is totally vegan and comes in travel sizes, the perfect gift for the discerning gent.

More information www.murdocklondon.com

RE.SOLVE EYE SERUM

GROOMING

Re.solve Eye Serum addresses puffiness and fine lines around the eyes.

A combination of active ingredients and the metal massage ball contained in the pen – gives you the confidence to look your best at any time of day within minutes. Suitable for all skin types.

52

More information www.resolve-skin.com

DEPOT SARTORIAL SAGE COLLECTION Depot® has launched a new fragrance: ‘Sartorial Sage.’

This addition to the 900 SCENTS collection offers an enchanting blend of oriental, aromatic and woody notes.

From scented candles to eau de toilette, you can now enjoy this elegant and unique fragrance in all your favourite products. Let your senses be enchanted by Sartorial Sage!

More information www.depotmaletools.com

LOOP GREY COLOUR FOAM is a mousse with subtle colour pigments for an elegant colour finish. It revives the natural colour tone of the hair and conceals grey and white hair with a natural slate grey tone. The foam gives the hair medium hold, volume and grip. Subtle masculine fragrance.

More information www.grahamhill-cosmetics.com

GROOMING

GRAHAM HILL LOOP GREY COLOUR FOAM

53

ANDIS RESURGE SHAVER The powerful reSURGE Shaver by Andis is contemporary in design, supremely ergonomic and functionally superior. Its dual independent gold titanium hypoallergenic foils feature an integrated long hair trimmer to reduce the amount of pre-shave trimming.

An easy pivot head hugs the unique contours of the face, as its high-speed rotary motor powers at 9,900 strokes per minute to glide effortlessly through wet or dry hair. A Lithium-ion battery delivers 60 minutes of run time on a single charge (a premium lightweight charging stand is sold separately). With a cleaning brush and a Smart LED 3-bar battery status indicator, the reSURGE™ Shaver delivers unrivalled precision that your craft and clients demand.

More information www.andis.com

ETI MAESTRO HAIR DRYER The super-powerful hair dryer ETI MAESTRO combines Italian design and handling in a compact and elegant format. A 3-speed brushless motor is capable of generating a silent airflow adjustable up to 9 temperatures for efficient working and less drying time per client. Using ion technology, clients will not get static or frizzy hair after blowdrying. The ETI MAESTRO features a ‘self cleaning function’ and feels as light in the hand as a smartphone.

IN SHOP

More information @etibenelux Distributor Benelux: www.wahl.nl

54

PAUL SMITH COLLECTION CANDLES AND DIFFUSERS Paul Smith, the iconic British designer known for his vibrant creativity and distinctive style, is proud to introduce his first-ever home fragrance collection under the Paul Smith Home label. Inspired by cherished memories and fueled by a passion for color and bold design, this collection features

an array of collectible, reusable candles and diffusers that encapsulate the essence of Paul’s unique aesthetic. The United Perfumes Collection boasts five captivating scents.

The vessels housing these enchanting fragrances are crafted from two-tone complementary colored glass, designed for reuse as vases or jars, and featuring lids that double as coasters.

The Paul Smith home fragrance collection offers three options for each scent: a single-wick 240g candle, a triple-wick 1kg candle, or a 250ml reed diffuser.

More information www.paulsmith.com

OAKLEY® 2023 SNOW COLLECTION The latest kits co-developed with team Oakley’s world-class athletes, Mikaela Shiffrin, Aleksander Aamodt Kilde, Jamie Anderson, Sage Kotsenburg, and Ståle Sandbech, fuses art and innovation.

Oakley®’s 2023 Snow Collection was created by combining the knowledge gained from years of producing snow-centric equipment fused with boundary-less creativity.

This unique goggles-collections delivers next-level experience.

LIFESTYLE

More information www.oakley.com

55

INTERVIEW

CREATIVE TALENT THE BIG SHOT AWARD

INTERVIEW WITH LOUISE VLAAR

It’s been a year full of highlights for Louise Vlaar (33), who made history this year by winning the Big Shot Men Shot Award at the prestigious One Shot Hair Awards in Austin, America. As the only Dutch person, she managed to turn her nomination into a victory at the world’s biggest hair awards show. But this success is just one of the many awards, both national and international, that Louise has received. Her men’s collection was earlier this year honored with a Coiffure Award in the Netherlands.

56

She works at Pro-Solo in Alkmaar (NL). She started there as a trainee under Mark van Westerop, who was named ‘Dutch Hairdresser of the Year’ in 2022. Mark took her under his wing 15 years ago and taught her the skills of the hairdressing profession. She has since grown into a talented Master Stylist, is part of the Keune Artistic Team, and shares her knowledge with others. In our conversation with Louise, it becomes clear that her enthusiasm, dedication, creativity, and passion have brought her to where she is today. “It’s been an amazing year, sometimes I can’t even comprehend everything that’s happening!” Be inspired by her story!

57

@louisevlaarhair

credits: @keunecosmetics and @ghd & @shidosha.leader.washou.nl

Passion for hairdressing Louise explains how she started her hairdressing training and what attracted her to the profession: “I started hairdressing 15 years ago at the age of 18. I was drawn to it because of the creativity and the ability to make people happy. When I was looking for an internship, my mentor pointed me to the team of Pro-Solo in Alkmaar, who participate in competitions and provide educational trainings. I then realized that the profession involved more than just working in a salon. To become part of that seemed really cool to me.”

She continues: “I trained a lot to master the techniques as quickly as possible and was also allowed to accompany Mark (ed.: van Westerop) to various trainings across the country, I didn’t mind if it was on the weekends. In the early years, I was busy with the profession seven days a week.

I thought it was so cool and wanted to know, experience, and witness everything!”

Her most memorable moments Winning awards are unforgettable experiences for Louise. She says: “Winning awards are of course 58

We are real enthusiasts of our profession moments you will never forget!

We’ve won a few team awards and that really gives a super vibe because you experience so much joy as a team. The very first time I won an award is of course also unforgettable. That was in 2010 the Dutch Coiffure Award for ‘Newcomer of the Year’. Terrifying but a fantastic moment!”

The secret of Pro-Solo Louise emphasizes the importance of teamwork at Pro-Solo: “At Pro-Solo, we are real enthusiasts of our profession!

As a team, we strengthen each other and you are encouraged to keep developing yourself. You are supported in your ambitions, we are a close-knit team.”

Award-winning men’s collection A notable highlight in Louise’s career is the creation of her men’s collection this year, which later won the Best Men Shot Award at the One Shot Hair Awards. Louise

shares the inspiring story behind this collection: “I draw inspiration from so many things, think of nature, air currents, seasons, colors, textures. I have folders on my phone where I save images that inspire me. This year the men’s collection actually came about spontaneously.”

She continues: “I had planned to color my Brazilian model completely white, which would also demonstrate that it is possible to get such dark hair evenly white. Initially, I wanted to submit for ‘color’, but changed my mind during the process.

I started creating and let what emerges happen. By switching from ‘color’ to ‘men’, I entered this men’s collection like an open book, which was also exciting!

Eventually, this resulted in 10 photos with 10 looks and in the evening with the team we chose 4 photos that best showed the diversity, from long to short hair.”

to come together. That whole process makes me very happy!”

Louise adds that in recent years she has been working with a fixed team of photographer, stylist, and makeup artist. “That works very well, you are attuned to each other, everyone has their own strength.”

She emphasizes that the support of her partner is crucial for her success: “I am lucky to have a partner who keeps things running at home, because I also gave birth to a son this year.

You’re away a lot of evenings, in fact you spend every spare hour the weeks before shoot day making final preparations. So I’m glad he supported me in this, he knows how important this is to me and how much I love doing this.”

The creative process Creating a collection is an intensive creative process: “Because creating a collection for the Coiffure Award has become such a part of my life, you are actually involved with it almost the entire year, whether it’s about gathering inspiration or thinking about the concepts.

I use the summer time to become

more concrete about it and then I train a lot, a lot of mannequin heads go through!

I try things out in the salon, naturally make mistakes, brainstorm with the team members of Pro-Solo. Eventually, you come to a kind of final result and in December/January the shoot takes place where all the puzzle pieces really have

Modern technology in competitions When asked if she is afraid that colleagues will use modern technologies for their entries, Louise replies: “Many photo competitions already have conditions where proof is requested. For example, you have to provide the raw file so that it can be demonstrated that no retouching has been applied 59

Keep pushing yourself creatively to the hair, show before and after photos of the model and in some cases also a 360-degree video of the look. At the One Shot Awards, it’s different. There you have to post your entries on Instagram and tag them.”

The importance of competitions Louise explains how important it is for her to participate in competitions: “I find it a cool challenge to enter the Coiffure Awards to be able to express my own creativity and bring together my passion and vision in a collection.” She emphasizes the stimulating effect of everything that comes with it: “The preparation and the journey towards it excites me as a creative person. I’m really in my element then, it makes me very happy!

On training evenings, I’m really a ‘freak’ in the salon, enjoying creating, throwing everything out, going ‘out of the box’.”

Louise also shares the importance of recognition by professional juries all over the world: “If my vision is then also appreciated by national and international professional juries, that’s of course very cool! That appreciation makes me feel really good and opens doors. I become better known among my colleagues and as a result, I am more often asked to provide education. I also hope that by winning international awards, like the Big Shot Award now, I will be invited abroad to give trainings or presentations, a dream of mine.”

60

The victory Louise tells how she experienced her recent victory at the One Shot Hair Awards and her reaction to the news: “I was nominated for several categories, just like Mark.

So we got an invitation to come to the awards show in Austin, Texas, which had a whole programme attached to it. Unfortunately, we didn’t manage to go there.

Because I was actually under the impression that I hadn’t won, I didn’t watch the livestream either, after all, it was in the middle of the night. My boyfriend checked immediately in the morning who the winners were and discovered that I had won.

He woke me up with this great news, I just couldn’t believe it!

I immediately had Mark on the phone and was so incredibly

happy! It felt very unreal because you don’t have the physical award in your hands at that moment.

However, I immediately received a lot of congratulations on Instagram, also from colleagues I hold in high esteem, and I suddenly got a lot of new followers. When you consider that 120 countries participated and that you have been selected as the winner out of thousands of entries, that obviously gives a huge boost!”

The most challenging aspect of the profession Louise emphasizes what the most challenging aspect is of the hairdressing profession: “As a hairdresser, you never stop learning, you always have to keep looking for the challenges yourself. We have a wonderful profession where things are always changing. So I also don’t think you can stand still, you have to keep professionalizing and innovating, keep pushing yourself creatively.

The challenge, of course, is to help your clients, sometimes 10 to 15 in a day, as much as possible with your expertise and knowledge.

Ask your customers questions like: ‘Who are you, what do you want to radiate, what suits you, what kind of hair do you have?’”

Future plans and inspiration for others Finally, Louise shares her future plans with us and has an inspiring message: “I mainly want to continue with what I am doing now, I hope to break through internationally and of course I am aiming to win the award for ‘Dutch Hairdresser of the Year’ within now and 5 years!” She encourages others to pursue their dreams and never give up: “Always follow your dreams; if you have goals, go for it. If you want to participate in the Coiffure Award, go for it. I won a Coiffure award in 2010 but I also had to be patient for 10 years after that before I won another award. So don’t give up! You also participate for your own development, so it has never been in vain.”

61

© Olivier Teepe

BRAND BITE

Re.solve Skin to make your skin look its best You can’t hide bad skin with a beard, a great haircut and nice clothing.

Re.solve it with the best skincare!

The modern man is paying more and more attention to his appearance and wants to present himself with confidence.

It’s no surprise that facial care for men is becoming increasingly popular. Barbershops and men’s hairdressers are capitalizing on this by not only selling facial care products but also offering facial treatments. A brand that is making significant strides in this industry is the cosmetics brand Re.solve.

We asked them to share their story with us and to tell us more about their products.

62

WIN A RE.SOLVE SKINCARE PACKAGE! Want to get to know Re.solve?

No less than 25 Re.solve Skincare packages worth € 75 are being raffled among the readers of BarberSociety!

Scan the QR code, enter your details on the website and who knows, you might soon receive the Re.solve Skincare package!

Re.solve: facial care for men Re.solve facial care for men provides the tools to make the skin look its best. As a result, the brand enables men to take care of their skin in a simple way every day.

This daily routine improves the condition of the skin, boosting self-confidence in appearance.

The origin Re.solve Skin is a new face in the barber world. The brand has been operational since December 2022, but a long process of research and studies preceded it, starting in 2019. It turned out that there was indeed a demand for

skincare products specifically for men’s skin. However, most men are not there yet; often, they wash their face with a splash of cold water or, worse, with shower foam or shampoo. They also often use a greasy ‘ladies’ cream’, which is not suitable for men’s skin.

This is because the men’s skin is 20% thicker than women’s skin and therefore has different needs. Re.solve was therefore commissioned to develop specific products for men’s skin care at A&T Cosmetics’ laboratory in Budapest. The design and name were conceived by Two Create Studio in London.

Unique Re.solve products are crueltyfree, vegan, non-comedogenic, free of parabens, silicones, sulfates, and, very importantly, free of microplastics. This is unique because European legislation is coming to ban microplastics in cosmetics. So, Re.solve is already ahead of this legislation!

63

The products Re.solve Skincare Range The Re.solve Skincare range, designed for simple, daily skincare, consists of 7 products: Charcoal Cleanser A daily facial cleanser that removes dirt and bacteria, leaving a fresh and polished feeling without damaging the skin.

Exfoliating Scrub This scrub effectively cleanses and gently removes dead skin cells.

Eye serum The serum addresses puffiness and fine lines around the eyes and gives an instant refreshing feeling.

Hydrating Moisturiser A hydrating day and night cream ideal for men with dehydrated, tight skin.

Also perfect to use as an aftershave balm.

Pro- Aging Moisturiser A nourishing day and night cream ideal for men with mature skin.

Anti-Shine Moisturiser An instant matifying day cream ideal for men with oily, shiny skin.

Protecting Spray As the last step of morning care, the protecting spray with SPF 20 can be applied over the moisturiser.

Re.solve Skinwear range Currently, the development of Skinwear is underway; products that allow men to camouflage skin imperfections.

The Re.solve Skinwear range will consist of four products:

For barbers Re.solve has developed a total concept for barbers. This concept consists of products and training courses specifically tailored to men’s needs. The products are beautifully designed and affordable for everyone.

The luxury barbershops affiliated with Re.solve offer men a complete experience, where facial care is also included in the beard treatment.

Across the border Internationally, Re.solve also wants to make its mark, and they are already gaining recognition across the border. For example, they were visible with their impressive stand at the Great British Barber Bash in Edinburgh and Liverpool, Barber Connect in Telford, and at Salon International in London.

Retouch Pen This pen helps to camouflage dark areas on the face, such as puffiness, dark circles and pigmentation spots.

Spot Eraser A pen specially designed to camouflage blemishes such as pimples and simultaneously dry them out.

Tinted Moisturiser This day cream with SPF, available in several shades, evens out the skin.

Bronzer Stick The bronzer stick gives the skin a healthy, fresh and sun-kissed complexion.

Re.solve is a comprehensive men’s line that allows men to even out the skin in addition to taking care of it.

Barber Virgil, @virgilthebarber038, is so enthusiastic about Re.solve Skin that he has become their ambassador. He says, “Re.solve is the brand of the future. In a few simple steps, it offers complete care for men.

I apply it to every beard treatment. In just a few minutes, the customer undergoes a great experience and the result is amazing.”

More information www.resolve-skin.com @re.solve_skin

64

Cay Kleeven, Kleeven Educatie, the Netherlands I offer a face waxing treatment and a facial treatment called the ‘Luxery Face Treatment’. It is an extensive and relaxing face treatment for €17 but always in combination with another treatment: 1 We start by cleansing the skin with the Facial Balancing Cleanser

and using massage techniques such as effleurage and petrissage.

These help to clean the skin and improve blood circulation.

Using a Hot Towel ensures deeper cleansing and extra relaxation. @barbercaykleeven 2 The next step, applying the Deep Exfoliation Scrub, helps remove dead skin cells. Circular movements and friction massage further enhance the exfoliation treatment. The Hot Towel after the scrub helps remove residues and promotes the removal and relaxation of the epidermis.

3 The use of a steamer during the treatment prevents the skin from cooling down and keeps the pores open. This helps to remove waste products from the skin.

4 After removing the scrub residues, apply the Ultra Intensive Face cream, possibly with a little Face and Body Bronze for an extra fresh and healthy appearance. The concluding tapotement and vibration massage provides relaxation.

5 Again, the steamer is used to allow the products to penetrate deeper into the skin.

Products?

4VOO MEN’S Skin Care. Perhaps a facial care line from Mr Finnley’s in the future.

65

Paul Taylor Clinch, Black Sails Barbershop, UK Our favourite facial treatment involves the 3 products we use from Reuzel: 1 Starting with the CLEAN & FRESH SOLID

FACE WASH STICK. It’s easy to use and fantastic as a facial cleanser hydrating the skin as well as a powerful antioxidant.

2 Then using the HYDRATING FACE MOISTURIZER to hydrate your skin. It’s fragrance free and works on all skin types.

3 We also use the INTENSIVE CARE EYE CREAM which is great for reducing dark circles around the eyes.

It’s none-greasy and won’t clog the pores and absorbs easily into the skin.

@pirate_paulus

Products?

Reuzel!

Virgil Burghard, Suolle, the Nederlands The facial treatment from Re.solve is a favorite, especially because it’s a relaxing moment for the client! This treatment is available separately (€25) but a facial treatment is included with every beard treatment (€35).

@virgilthebarber038

We provide a facial treatment after every shaving treatment, which includes a charcoal cleanser mixed with an exfoliating coffee scrub. This ensures a deep cleansing of the skin.

I then massage this mix of products well into the skin, cleaning the pores and surface of the skin thoroughly.

After that, I apply a hot towel treatment for 1.5 minutes, which brings the client into a complete zen moment. Then I clean the entire face and apply a hydrating cream, which I massage into the skin until it is fully absorbed. As a finishing touch, I use the eye serum stick for under-eye bags and eyelids. The client is then completely refreshed and rejuvenated!

Sometimes I extend the treatment with a steam treatment, but I only do this if the client is open to it.

Products?

I enjoy working with all the products from Re.solve!

66

Connor Evans, Men’s Grooming Company, UK We offer skin care services facials / shaves / and complexion boosters with education for the client to look at their skin at home. Our ‘ILLUMINATE Facial Treatment’ (£60, approx. € 69) is our most popular and a hit with our clients. It’s a one-hour service.

Illuminate Facial: 1 Relaxing welcome: Begin with a hot towel infused with Insight Feelings Gourmand fragrance parfum. @connorevanshair 2 Cleansing ritual: Gently cleanse the skin with Insight Man hair and body cleanser.

3 Warm towel cleanse: Remove the cleanser with a soothing warm towel.

4 Shaving prep: Apply shaving soap using Insight Man shaving brush.

5 Aromatic steam: Enjoy another hot towel infused with parfum for a refreshing experience.

6 Precision shave: Reapply shaving soap and expertly shave contours for a polished finish.

7 Stubble care: Apply beard cleanser, followed by a soothing massage and warm water spray for thorough cleaning.

8 Towel finish: Remove any remaining product with a warm towel.

9 Nourishing oils: Apply multifunctioning shave and beard oil for skin and beard care.

10 Revitalizing chill: Experience a rejuvenating ice-cold towel treatment.

11 Aftershave elegance: Gently massage Inside Man Emollient Aftershave Cream for a fresh and smooth complexion.

12 Hydra refresh: Conclude the service with a mist of Antioxidant Hydra Refresh to the head and face for a revitalizing finale.

Products?

We are using INSIGHT MAN product range.

Doriana Borgo, The Barber, Italy We specialize in skincare and beard care tailored to our clients’ specific skin and beard types. The beard treatment, which has become a favorite, was developed by myself through the study of various massage techniques. It is both incredibly relaxing and deeply invigorating. The second option is the anti-aging treatment, known for its freshness and soothing effects (sometimes, I combine the two treatments.)

@thebarber.it

The beard treatment, priced between €35 and €45, involves a combination of maneuvers and touches that encompass the entire face and head. I carefully select products based on the customer’s skin type. I conduct a thorough cleansing to remove any residues and then begin the treatment with specific products. The process includes the application of a specific mask and an anti-stress, anti-aging massage.

Products?

I love Dermalogica, The Ordinary and now, I’ve discovered a cool new brand for male skincare: Barberians.

67

BARBERING MEANS BUSINESS TO ASTON LAFON

INTERVIEW

68

Aston LaFon is the president and founder of the 18.21 Man Made men’s premium grooming products line. A native of Detroit, Michigan, he has been living in Austin, Texas for about two decades. Aston has over 25 years’ experience working on the business side of the barbering industry.

In his role as 18.21 Man Made president, he visits many barbershops and speaks with numerous barbers about their challenges and opportunities. This active dialogue helps him keep his brand aligned to barbers’ evolving needs.

It also enables him to keep a finger on the pulse of the industry. This gives Aston a unique perspective on wider developments and trends across the barbering landscape.

We meet up with Aston to talk about industry trends, the importance of versatility and charging what you’re worth.

Aston LaFon @1821manmade

Photography: © Jaden LaFon

Outstanding service is the key to sustainable success

Growing up around haircutting and styling Aston LaFon has been around haircutting and styling all his life. What attracted him to the industry? “My mother was a hairdresser and so I grew up around haircutting and styling.

I was attracted to the culture, the service and the craft,” Aston explains.

He goes on to pursue a career on the grooming products side of the business and never looks back.

With a career spanning 25 years, he knows the industry inside and out. He focuses on the women’s side of the business for the first fifteen years of his career and then turns his attention to men’s grooming products ten years ago.

This transition in his career corresponds with the resurgence

of classic men’s barbering, which creates a strong market for premium grooming products to match the meticulous cuts.

“Over the years I’ve worked with some really great product brands and some not-so-great product brands. I’ve started brands of my own and served as an importer, exporter and distributor. Along the way, I’ve been fortunate to support thousands and thousands 69

of service providers, either with brands or services or strategies to help grow their business through technical skills, service offerings and much more. My goal is to nourish their career and enrich their personal incomes.”

Aston says everything came together with the founding of 18.21 Man Made. “We offer top shelf grooming goods for the aspiring gentlemen. And as a brand, we’re best known for our boozy packaging, intoxicating scents and professional grade performance. We provide products barbers can rely upon and trust, so they feel confident prescribing those products to their guests. Confident that their guests can go home and duplicate that style. So we’re grateful to the professional service providers because that’s how we grow as a brand.”

achieve them must be a top priority for any business owner.

It all comes down to making people feel happy and good about themselves. In other words, the added value that comes from the direct relationship with the person in the chair and behind the chair, not on Instagram.”

wonder: Do barbers understand their value? This is because I tend to see that barbers get stuck in these modest price points. And it honestly bothers me because there are plenty of barbers that are charging a rate which matches the skill and the service they’re offering,” says Aston.

Money matters Do the prices barbers are charging accurately reflect the value of their skills and service? “I often

So let’s talk actual prices. Aston says: “The average price in the US is about $35, usually for a 45-minute to an hour service. The

70

Photography: © Kelsey Lawrence

What happens when the clipper fade cuts barbers have learned on YouTube go out of style? Aston replies, “That hits the nail on the head. Having a versatile skills set is vital. The more versatile you are, the wider mix of customers you can serve. It’s all about focusing on the fundamentals every day.

It gives you an opportunity to create more customers. Because barbering is, first and foremost, a business. So having a vision, goals, measurable performance indicators and strategies to

@rikkihixx

Staying power for barbers Does Aston think the phenomenon of traditional barbershops has peaked and will start declining as hairstyles change? Aston says it all comes down to developing versatile skills and staying focused on the customer. “Whether or not barbers will have lasting power this time around depends on the barbers’ ability to give customers something great and to develop their skills.”

price is really based on how busy the service provider is. The flow of customers through the chair tells them what their price point should be. So maybe $35 is a great place to start. But if you’re delivering

up $38, nobody’s going to be shocked. But that relatively small increase can make a big difference in how much income you take home or how much income you generate for

Barbering is, first and foremost, a business a good service, have returning customers and are busy for the amount of time you want to be busy, it’s time to raise your prices. That could be a rise of $3, $5 or $10. You can have a fun little sign on your station saying: ‘The world is getting more expensive and so am I’.”

Aston is convinced your business and customer base will let you know when you’re worth more and can charge more. “Your customers who are vested in you, don’t want to go somewhere else because they’re so happy. They’re the customers that will stick with you and send you more customers who are willing to pay more as well.

And that’s how you grow.”

Is there a danger of pricing yourself out of the market?

“Yes. I would always recommend a small increase. A $3- or $4-dollar increase is easily digestible for consumers. A $10 jump is a big jump. So if you’re at $35 and move

your shop. Just that little $3 can make all the difference,” Aston explains.

Expand your services range to grow your business Aston says that expanding the range of products and service you offer is another way to strengthen your earning model.

One example is offering facial treatments using men’s face care products. “Offering facial treatments is great because there are a lot of men who want those services. It’s a business that barbers can capture.

It fits in perfectly with the overall barbering service.

Because if you go back to the first barbering schools in the early 1900s, they taught skin care services as part of the standard curriculum.

But we’ve lost that over time and have focused heavily on haircuts. But it used to be taught as part of a well-rounded grooming program that went

far beyond the haircut to incorporate shaves and skin care.”

Stick to the plan What is Aston’s advice to barbers wanting to build successful businesses and fulfilling careers?

“Have goals and a plan! It’s difficult to get where you’re going if you don’t know where you are and don’t know where you want to go. If you’ve got a sound vision and can work that vision into a plan with very clear goals, you can get there. Providing outstanding service time after time is the key to sustainable success. Instead of going to social media and creating the persona that you’re doing more or having more, just focus on creating more for yourself. And the way to do that is to give the best service.”

Aston has some important words of encouragement for the international barbering community. “I hope that everybody enjoys their craft.

And if you don’t have the skills and experience you want, be confident that if you put in enough time, effort and persistence, you will get there.”

71

B AC KG R O U N D

In the world of beauty and personal care, the barbering industry plays a crucial role. Customers entrust barbers with their hair and appearance, expecting a high level of service and expertise. To meet these expectations and maintain the quality of service, it is sometimes necessary to implement price increases. In this article, we will explore several reasons why price increases in the barbering industry are a must.

Investing in quality and training To keep up with ever-changing trends and techniques in the barbering industry, barbers must constantly invest in ongoing education and training. They need to learn to work with new products, technologies, and techniques to keep customers satisfied. These training and investments require financial resources, and price increases can help cover these costs.

Materials and equipment High-quality materials, tools, and equipment are essential for delivering quality services in the barbering industry. Scissors, combs, hairdryers, styling products, and other supplies need to be regularly replaced and upgraded. This requires financial resources that can be supplemented by price increases.

Health and safety In light of the COVID-19 pandemic, barbershops have had to take extra measures to ensure the health and safety of customers and staff. Purchasing personal protective equipment, regularly sanitizing workspaces, and implementing social distancing measures come with additional costs. Price increases can help cover these expenses and ensure safety.

72

Improving the work environment An attractive and comfortable work environment contributes to the overall customer experience.

Upgrading barbershop furnishings, lighting, and decor can increase customer satisfaction, but it comes with an investment. Price increases can contribute to improving the work environment.

Fair compensation for barbers Barbers are professionals who work hard to satisfy customers and enhance their appearance.

They deserve fair compensation for their expertise and efforts.

Maintaining competitive prices ensures that barbers can earn a viable income and remain motivated to provide high-quality services.

Customer satisfaction and experience Customers not only expect quality but also a great experience at the barbershop.

This includes attention, comfort, and a sense of luxury. By raising prices and investing in the customer experience, barbers can build a more loyal clientele and generate word-of-mouth referrals.

Generated by ChatGPT

PRICE INCREASE IN THE BARBERING INDUSTRY IS A MUST

Various economic motives also affect the barbering industry.

These factors can further justify the need for price increases in the industry. Consider inflation, increases in labour costs due to, for example, higher minimum wages and social security contributions, sustainability and environmental regulations, technological investments, increasing competition, etc.

It’s important to note that price increases in the barbering industry should be carefully considered and communicated to customers.

Transparency and explaining the reasons behind the increases are crucial for fostering understanding and acceptance among clients.

In conclusion, price increases in the barbering industry are sometimes necessary to ensure the quality, safety, and experience of customers, as well as to provide fair compensation to barbers. By taking the right steps and effectively communicating with customers, the barbering industry can thrive and continue to meet the ever-changing demands of modern society.

73

B AC KG R O U N D

HOW DO I DETERMINE MY BARBERING RATES?

Generated by Brainvine

Here are some tips to help you determine your rates:

Calculating Het berekenen thevan price defor prijs a voor een barber treatment kappersbehandeling can vary kan variëren depending onafhankelijk various factors van verschillende such as the complexity factoren, of the zoals de complexiteit treatment, the duration van of the de behandeling, treatment, the barbershop’s de duur van de behandeling, location, and thede costs locatie the van de barbershop barbershop needs to encover de kosten diebe to deprofitable. barber­shop moet

Market research: Look at what other barbers in your area are charging. This will give you an idea of what customers are willing to pay.

Cost calculation: Calculate how much you spend on products, rent, insurance, taxes, etc. This will help you determine the minimum you need to charge to make a profit.

Experience and specializations: If you have a lot of experience or are specialized in certain techniques, you can charge a higher rate for that.

Time: How long does an average treatment take? Naturally, if a treatment takes longer, you can charge more for it.

Service: Do you offer extras, such as a head massage or a beverage?

This can also affect your price.

Value: Think about the value you provide to your customers. It’s not just about cutting hair, but also about the experience and the outcome.

74

How do I calculate the cost price?

Calculating your cost price is an essential step in determining your rates. Here are the steps you can follow:

1

2

3 4

irect costs/material costs: D These are the costs that are directly related to your services. For a barber, these could be the costs of hair products such as shampoo, conditioner, styling etc. that you use for each customer.

Indirect costs/overhead costs: These are the costs that are not directly related to your services, but that are necessary to run your business. Think of rent, utilities, insurance, marketing costs, etc.

Labor costs: These are the costs of your time or the time of your employees.

Calculate how much you want to earn per hour and how much time you spend on average on each customer.

Depreciation costs: These are the costs of depreciation of your equipment and furniture. If, for example, you buy a chair for € 1,000 and expect it to last 5 years, then your depreciation costs will be € 200 per year.

Add up all these costs to get your total costs. Then divide these total costs by the number of customers you serve per year to get your cost price per customer. This gives you a basic idea of what you should at least ask to cover your costs. Don’t forget that you also want to make a profit, so your final price should be higher than this cost price.

Let’s take a fictional example: Suppose you’re a barber and you want to calculate the cost price for a standard haircut. Here are some possible costs:

1 2

Direct costs: You use about € 5 worth of hair products for each haircut.

3 4

Indirect costs: You pay € 1,000 per month in rent and € 200 in utilities. You also spend € 100 per month on marketing.

That’s a total of € 1,300 per month. If you have about 100 customers per month, your indirect costs per customer are € 13 (€ 1,300 / 100).

Labor costs: You want to earn € 20 per hour and you spend about half an hour on each haircut. So, your labor costs per haircut are € 10 (€ 20 * 0.5).

Depreciation costs: You’ve spent € 2,000 on equipment that’s expected to last 5 years. That means your depreciation costs are € 400 per year, or about € 33 per month (€ 400 / 12).

If you have 100 customers per month, your depreciation costs per customer are about € 0.33 (€ 33 / 100).

If you add up all these costs, you get a cost price of about € 28.33 (€ 5 + € 13 + € 10 + € 0.33) per haircut. Suppose your desired profit margin is 20% (a common margin): € 28.33 x 0.20 = € 5.67.

A standard haircut would then cost € 28.33 + € 5.67 = € 34 This is of course a simplified example and in practice there may be other costs you need to consider. Barbershops should consider factors such as competition, market dynamics, and customer demand when setting their prices.

75

C O LU M N D E N N I S VA N L I E R O P

Elevate your craft: why now is the time to raise your prices In an era marked by rising costs, courtesy of inflation, escalating interests, and skyrocketing energy expenses driven by global events, staying ahead in the barbering industry demands a keen eye on your pricing strategy.

As a seasoned business coach dedicated to helping passionate barbers turn their craft into a lucrative venture, I assert that reviewing and raising your prices, at least biannually, is more than just a necessity—it’s a cornerstone for ensuring business growth amidst economic fluctuations.

What is the right price?

The path to finding the right price isn’t straightforward; it’s an exercise in understanding your brand’s value and the unique experience you offer to your clientele. A shining example is Belgian barber Kevin Boon, whose meticulous branding, clear market positioning, and robust communication strategies propelled him to confidently elevate his prices. By placing customer experience at the heart of his business, Kevin not only bolstered his profitability but also amplified his brand’s word-of-mouth reputation.

How do you communicate a price raise?

At the HALO Academy, we’ve devised an intriguing approach to breaking the news of price increments to your cherished clients while preserving their 76

loyalty. Our secret sauce?

The loyalty card initiative. By crafting an engaging email that underscores the remarkable enhancements awaiting your clients, and subtly mentioning the price adjustment to sustain and enrich their barbershop experience, you create an avenue for transparent communication.

Offering them a chance to book their next three appointments at the previous rate is a gesture that cements their loyalty while easing them into the new pricing structure.

The fear of losing customers often deters barbers from upping their prices. However, a wellthought-out price hike, rooted in delivering a superior customer experience, not only retains loyal patrons but attracts those who appreciate the enhanced value.

If your waiting list is growing,

it’s a clear signal that your current pricing doesn’t reflect the highquality service you provide.

Regular market and competition analysis is a prerequisite to avoid undervaluing your expertise.

A healthy financial foundation Turning your passion into profit is a journey that begins with a robust bottom line. By raising your prices, you’re building a financial cushion to weather unforeseen challenges and continue delivering exceptional service. The narrative of ‘karoshi’ - working oneself to death, prevalent in today’s demanding times, underscores the importance of a balanced approach to business. Ensuring a healthy bottom line is not just about surviving, but thriving, thereby enabling you to invest in your well-being and the continuous enhancement of your craft.

In the face of adversity, the decisions you make today are the bedrock of your prosperity for the next decade or more.

Perhaps, it’s time to re-evaluate your pricing, master your brand, and take a bold step towards a more profitable and fulfilling barbering venture.

What do you think?

Dennis van Lierop @halo_edutainment

Barbershop price increase checklist Understand your market Look at the current economy: are costs like rent and supplies going up? Check what nearby barbershops are charging.

Review your costs List all your costs to see if you are making enough money to cover them. Decide what new price will help cover costs and allow for some profit.

Brand positioning Think about what makes your shop special. Ensure your prices reflect the quality and experience you provide.

Talk to your customers Plan a kind way to inform customers about the price increase.

Consider offering loyal customers a special deal, like keeping the old price for their next few visits.

Improve your service Use the extra money to improve your shop and services.

Ask customers for feedback to know if they like the changes.

Watch and adjust Keep an eye on how the new prices are affecting your business.

Be ready to make small changes based on what you observe and what customers say.

Maintain financial health Save some money for unexpected situations. Ensure your business remains profitable with the new prices.

Take care of yourself Balance work with rest to keep doing a great job. Keep learning and improving your skills and business knowledge.

Plan for the long-term Reflect on how the new prices are helping your business grow.

Think about how the decisions you make now will affect your shop in the future.

77

BARBERS & THE CITY

78 78

We showcase a different city in each edition of BarberSociety magazine as a source of inspiration. In this edition, we’re spotlighting bustling Tokyo, the capital of Japan. Check out Tokyo’s amazing barbershops and the hotspots local barbers say you really shouldn’t miss when visiting their city.

79

© Olivier Teepe

BARBERS & THE CITY

80

Tokyo Skyline Shears & Style Highrise Boulevard 18, Top Floor Tokyo 416-20003 Japan +81 3 4645 7776 www.tokyoskylineshearsandstyle.com On the towering top floor of an iconic building nestled in the heart of Tokyo, one finds ‘Tokyo Skyline Shears & Style,’ the epitome of cutting-edge barber artistry. With stunning views of the bustling city and Yoyogi park, this stylish barbershop warmly welcomes its guests. Here, at the nexus of sky and earth, ‘Tokyo Skyline Shears & Style’ seamlessly blends technological innovation with comfort and refinement. From avant-garde hairstyles to state-of-the-art grooming, ‘Tokyo Skyline Shears & Style’ is the ultimate destination for gentlemen seeking an unparalleled, contemporary experience in the world of men’s grooming.

OUR HOTSPOTS Sakura Teppanyaki 10-11-12 Roppongi Boulevard, Roppongi Tokyo 453-8961 Japan +81 3 5321 4467 www.sakurateppanyaki-tokyo.com Enjoy a luxurious teppanyaki dinner at Sakura, where talented chefs will prepare your meal for you.

Urban Gents Boutique 7-8-9 Shibuya Avenue, Shibuya Tokyo 765-0043 Japan +81 3 8125 3520 www.urbangentsboutique.com This chic boutique in Shibuya offers contemporary and stylish menswear, from tailored suits to casual streetwear.

Harajuku Groove Lounge 22-23-24 Harajuku Avenue, Harajuku Tokyo 432-0041 Japan +81 3 2231 8674 www.harajukugroovelounge.com A stylish lounge club where you can relax and enjoy cocktails and live music.

81

Photography: © Jeremia Vlaanderen

BARBERS & THE CITY

The Barba Tokyo 1F Tohan Building 7 3-4-12 Uchikanda, Chiyoda-ku Tokyo 101-0047 +81 3 3525 4857 Japan www.thebarbatokyo.com If you’re looking for a place where craftsmanship, style, and service come together, then The Barba Tokyo is the place to be.

The Barba Tokyo operates five barbershops in Tokyo, each with its own identity. From classic, man cave, to street style, these barbershops serve as a social hub for men. Offering a wide range of services, from traditional shaves to modern haircuts, they provide a unique experience for every customer. Whether you’re a local or a visitor, step into The Barba Tokyo to enjoy a slice of Tokyo’s vibrant barber culture.

82

OUR HOTSPOTS Unagi Hashimoto 2 Chome-5-7 Suido, Bunkyo City Tokyo 112-0005 Japan +81 3 3811 4850 www.unagi-hashimoto.jp For a very authentic Japanese meal, rice with eel (unagi in Japanese), head to Unagi Hashimoto. Be sure to have a sake with it! This restaurant has been awarded a Michelin star.

New York Bar PARK HYATT TOKYO 52nd floor 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-Ku Tokyo 163-1055 Japan +81 3 5323 3458 www.restaurants.tokyo.park. hyatt.co.jp

New York Bar, known from the film ‘Lost in Translation’, has a phenomenal view from the 52nd floor. There is live entertainment every night with jazz performances. Local vintage cognac and brandy, classic and original cocktails, and the largest selection of Californian wines in Japan are served.

Harajuku district Harajuku is a rather large district in Tokyo that is actually mostly known as the fashion district of Japan where you can see the most diverse clothing styles passing by. The clothing styles are often derived from the famous Manga or Anime and range from very dark to extremely colourful and cheerful. The creative scene comes here to shop and you will find endless shops, the latest sneakers, clothes etc.

83

© Olivier Teepe

BARBERS & THE CITY

84

Harmony Cuts & Shaves Shibuya Avenue 7, Shibuya Tokyo 048-0006 Japan +81 3 1245 3967 www.harmonycutsandshaves-­ tokyo.com Tucked deep in metropolitan Tokyo, on the corner of Vintage Avenue and Classic Street, is nostalgic barbershop ‘Harmony Cuts & Shaves’, an enchanting return to the golden years of men’s grooming. With unparalleled mastery, Harmony Cuts & Shaves offers traditional shaves and timeless haircuts. The retro décor, genuine hospitality and impeccable service make this barbershop a place where time stands still for a moment, and where craftsmanship and style go hand in hand.

OUR HOTSPOTS Harajuku Bites 19-20-21 Harajuku Street, Harajuku Tokyo 423-5006 Japan +81 3 3345 6732 www.harajukubites.com Taste delicious fusion dishes and street food in a trendy setting in the heart of Harajuku.

Roppongi Grooves Club 13-14-15 Roppongi Street, Roppongi Tokyo 123-1066 Japan +81 3 8875 9043 www.roppongigroovesclub.com This vibrant club in Roppongi is known for the best techno music and international atmosphere.

Harajuku Threads 25-26-27 Harajuku Lane, Harajuku Tokyo 573-0043 Japan +81 3 7589 0043 www.harajukuthreads-tokyo.com Discover the latest fashion trends at Harajuku Threads, a boutique offering hip and contemporary men’s clothing.

85

From Corporate to Clippers

A L L-I N T H E FA M I LY

86

@theboisebeardsmith

Interview with Wendy Rose Exploring the transition from a corporate career to the world of barbering, we delve into the experiences of passionate barber Wendy Rose. Including the motivation behind her career change, the establishment of ‘The Beardsmith’ in Idaho, USA and the influence of her family’s history on her chosen profession. Wendy is 53 years old but says about this: “I feel like I’m 35!”

I think my grandfather would roll over in his grave

How did you get started in the world of barbering?

“I started my journey to barbering when I was 44 years old after more than 20 years working in the corporate world as an executive assistant for corporations.

I decided that I wanted and deserved more and going the corporate route as a single mother was not working for me. Becoming a barber ended up offering a lot more than I ever imagined.”

Who inspired you to become a barber?

“It began as a burning desire to find my true purpose. I started to notice men growing their facial hair and soon, it became an obsession - really critiquing beards. I wanted to sculpt beards and make people feel good about themselves. I come from a long line of hair people (barbers and cos) and decided to check out barber school.”

You run ‘The Beardsmith’, what inspired you to the concept of the barbershop?

“The Beardsmith was founded by the late Jeff Summers and myself in August 2014. The focus was beards and Jeff could grow a magnificent beard. He was a software developer who believed in me and helped support me through barber school. The name ‘Beardsmith’ came from him when someone asked him how his beard was so perfect, he said, ‘I have my own personal Beardsmith’.

He trademarked the name.”

Could you share some insights into the unique beard trimming techniques you use?

“Yes, during my time in barber school, there was no emphasis on beard grooming. However, the focus was on shaves and facials.

Consequently, I developed a specific technique for sculpting beards using only a trimmer over 87

comb. This method was then combined with a facial and a shave, providing a unique experience for bearded men who had never had the chance to experience a straight razor shave or had never sat in a real barber chair. At the time, everyone was growing beards!

As I started working, people came from all over to visit my barbershop, and it eventually led to a huge cult following in Boise, Idaho.”

are the ones who embody the Beardsmith Way.”

What makes a Beardsmith special?

“What makes a Beardsmith special, is a hair cutter (barber or a cosmetologist) who has a passion for men’s grooming.

Someone with a vision, who can see the finished product and offer a solution as well as create it.

Barbers who do well at our shop

Could you tell me about your grandfather being a barber?

“My grandfather, Ted Patton had a barbershop located in San Jose, California, located across from the Winchester Mystery House for 50 years. I did not get to see his shop when I was young because my mother, who was a cosmetologist, moved to Idaho

88

How is it like to be a barber in Boise, Idaho?

“Being a barber in Boise, Idaho is great! Before we started, barbering was reserved for the old guys and now, there are hundreds of barber shops.

A lot of them began from barbers who learned with us along the way, and they now have successful shops of their own.”

when I was 4 years old. My uncle Don Patton worked with my grandfather for a few of those years also. My grandfather passed away over 20 years ago, but he worked late into his 70’s. I did not spend a lot of time with my grandfather as a child because we lived in a different state.”

Did your mother support your choice to become a barber?

“When I told my mother, who wasn’t a cosmetologist for long, that I was going to go to barber school, she told me not to do it!

She said: ‘You won’t make any money and it’s a hard life.’ It was exactly what I needed to hear so I could prove her wrong. I was already working in a corporate job, making great money, but I was empty inside. So, I believed I could do the opposite and I struck out to prove her wrong!”

What do you do differently than your grandfather?

“I think my grandfather would roll over in his grave if he saw the big mural of himself on my barbershop wall! He was very humble and never bragged about being a barber. Back in the day, he was considered a blue-collar worker who made a very modest living. I think he would be shocked at how we do things.

Our customers can have a beer and get a haircut! Also, all of our Beardsmith Barbers are employees!”

What major changes do you think have occurred over the past generations?

“The straight razor, for instance, isn’t what it used to be. I believe that our current methods are much more efficient. The technology in haircutting has

finally started evolving and changing. Additionally, the way we conduct business, utilizing social media and appointment scheduling software, among other things, has evolved significantly.

A lot has changed, but one thing remains constant, and that’s our relationships with our patrons!”

Are you incorporating AI into The Beardsmith in any way?

“I try to learn as much about technology as possible! We do use some AI tech for our advertising, etc. I think it’s important to stay aware of what’s happening and stay current with the times.”

How are you holding up after the impactful event you’ve experienced?

“I co-created this company with the amazing help of Jeff Summers, who unfortunately passed away

from a heart attack in 2019.

It has been a very difficult transition to manage the shop without him, as he was so loved by many of our customers, colleagues and employees. Luckily, my sister, Amy, runs the front desk and helps in as many aspects of the business as possible.

Without her at the helm, I don’t know where we would be. She is going to go to barber school next year and become a ‘Beardsmith’.”

Looking to the future –Do you envision a new generation carrying on the barbering tradition?

“I’d love to say ‘yes’ to this.

My son is a natural with the clippers, but he is 19 and is pursuing other ventures. I hope one day, the tradition will be carried on.

I am leaving a legacy, who knows what will happen. All I really want is for my family to be happy doing what they love.”

89

C O LU M N C H R I S FO ST E R

From Fades to Fortune…

Building Your Barber Brand

90

1

2

What’s a personal brand, anyway?

The need for residual income

Think about your favourite celebrities. They’re not just known for one thing. They also have clothing lines, fragrances, or even their own TV shows. That’s because they have built a brand around themselves. In the same way, your personal brand is the image and reputation you build around yourself, representing your unique skills, experiences, and values as a barber.

Residual income is money you earn without actively working for it, after the initial effort. For example, imagine making money while you sleep, or when you’re on vacation. Sounds great, right? The unpredictability of life means we can’t always rely on the consistent income from cutting hair. Building a residual income provides a safety net and can potentially offer more financial freedom.

In today’s digital age, standing out isn’t just about giving the cleanest fades or the sharpest trims. It’s about creating a brand – your brand. As a barber, leveraging your personal brand can open doors to opportunities beyond the barber’s chair, especially in the realm of residual income. Let’s break down why and how.

3

4

How can barbers use personal branding to create training programmes?

The Benefits of Leveraging Your Personal Brand

Showcase your expertise: With social media platforms like Instagram and TikTok, you can share your hair-cutting techniques, latest trends, or product reviews. This not only attracts clients but also establishes you as an expert in your field.

Offer online classes: Once you’ve got a decent following, offer online classes.

This could range from basic hair-cutting tutorials for beginners to advanced techniques for seasoned barbers. Platforms like ‘Teachable’ or ‘The Profile Guy Digital Tools’ allows you to create and sell your courses.

Create how-to guides: Write e-books or guides on specific topics, like ‘The Ultimate Guide to Fades’ or ‘Mastering Scissor Techniques.’ Once written, these resources can be sold multiple times, providing a steady stream of income.

Host workshops: Organise workshops or seminars where aspiring barbers can learn from you in person.

This not only boosts your reputation but also provides another income source.

Increased recognition: The more you showcase your skills and share knowledge, the more recognised you become in the barbering community.

Networking opportunities: A strong personal brand can lead to partnerships with haircare brands, collaborations with other barbers, or even speaking engagements at events.

Enhanced trust: Customers and students will see you as a reliable expert, leading to more business and referrals.

And here’s a head-start: I’ve put together a FREE training on how I was able to generate significant income from my profile by selling my own digital products.

To access this invaluable resource, simply scan the barcode provided. It’s a game-changer!

So, pick up those clippers, a camera, and let’s start building your brand!

Chris Foster @theprofile.guy

Barbers have always been pivotal figures in communities, offering more than just haircuts.

By leveraging your personal brand, you can expand your influence, share your expertise, and build a steady source of residual income. It’s time to think beyond the chair and embrace the boundless opportunities that personal branding can offer.

91

92

93

Keune Barber Connect, Seté (FR), August 2023

Enzo Robe (l) Winner ‘Best Innovative Style award’ Josue Paisnel (r) Winner ‘Best Technique award’

94 @enzorobe3

Co-organiser: @geoffreykvot

95

Keune Barber Connect, Seté (FR), August 2023

Photography: © Lucas Marcou

@lecoiffeursah

96 @chrisbrownlesshair

97

@bencoupeur

Uppercut Deluxe look&learn, Amsterdam (NL), October 2023

Founder @steve_purcell

@steve_purcell

Editor in Chief Miranda Vlas press@barbersociety.com

COLOPHON

Editor Leny Vlas Writers Steven Walker Ben Copeland Miranda Vlas Contributors Olivier Teepe (@shotbyolivier), cover: signature.ai Chris Foster Dennis van Lierop Art direction & graphic design Merktuig, Jarno Aafjes, Dagmar van den Brink Founding editor Marc van de Hare Online sales www.barbersociety.com/magazine Printing Noova Media Productions Customer support Abonnementenland www.aboland.nl Advertisements & Publisher BarberSociety B.V. Amsterdam, the Netherlands Miranda Vlas +31 (0)6 54 212 432 info@barbersociety.com www.barbersociety.com @barbersocietymag BarberSociety is a publication of BarberSociety B .V. Nothing from this publication may be copied without the prior consent of the publisher. BarberSociety may not be included in a portfolio of magazines without prior written consent. BarberSociety is not responsible for any inaccuracies in this publication.

BarberSociety is not responsible for any actions by third parties that could ensue from reading this publication.

BarberSociety reserves the right to publish submitted materials entirely or partially without notification.

The publisher excludes any liability for damage due to printing errors or other inaccuracies.

More information is available at www.barbersociety.com.

AI & the Winter 2023/2024 edition Some of the images featured in this edition of BarberSociety Magazine were generated by artist Olivier Teepe with the help of a custom-made AI tool between June 2022 and December 2023 (see © Olivier Teepe).

Some of the textual content within this publication was initially generated by Brainvine and ChatGPT, advanced AI tools. The AI texts have been rewritten and edited by our editors.

We greatly appreciate and value the power of Al technology in assisting us with creative endeavors although human touch remains indispensable in perfecting the final product. We are grateful to Olivier Teepe for his artwork, as well as Kenzo Reeder and our dedicated editors for their invaluable contributions.

98

© Olivier Teepe, @shotbyolivier, signature.ai

BarberSociety Magazine utilizes artificial intelligence algorithms to generate images for artistic and inspiration purposes. These images are produced based on patterns, data, and training, and are not sourced from Beardmen collection images

Earth collection images

specific copyrighted materials.

BarberSociety Magazine acknowledges that despite its best efforts to ensure

** P hotography: Generated

compliance with copyright laws, there

with the help of AI

is a possibility that some Al-generated

today, text: generated

images may unintentionally resemble

with the help of AI

copyrighted works.

** P hotography: generated

*

**

©Kenzo Reeder, @kenzoartwork.ai

with the help of AI early

The Magazine does not assume any

2022, text: generated

responsibility or liability for any

with the help of AI

infringement caused by the Al-generated images displayed within its pages.

Users, readers, and contributors are reminded to exercise their own due diligence and comply with copyright laws when using or reproducing Al-generated images from this publication.

The Magazine cannot be held responsible for any unauthorized or infringing use of Al-generated images beyond the scope of this publication. By accessing, using, or relying on the content of this publication, including Al-generated images, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless the Magazine, its publishers, editors, employees, and affiliates from any claims, damages, or liabilities arising out of or related to copyright infringement associated with

www.hairstyleai.com:

Al-generated images. Please be aware that this disclaimer is intended to provide a general understanding of the Magazine’s stance on copyright infringement associated with Al-generated images.

99