BarberSociety Magazine international Winter 2022/2023 issue (in English)

IMAN KHALAF THREE AND A HALF YEARS AGO, I SAID I HAD FAILED THE ONLY BARBER ON BOARD BARBER LADY KATE STEEN I AM ALL ABOUT MEN’S HAIRCUTS AND ENTERTAINMENT!

BARBERSOCIETY MAGAZINE

HOW TO RUN YOUR BUSINESS SUSTAINABLY?

WINTER 2022 | #14 | € 12.50

A MAN ON A MISSION WHATEVER HAIR TYPE YOU HAVE, YOU SHOULD BE WELCOME

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SAVE THE DATE

Sunday 23 April, Amsterdam

Ready for the ultimate barber event?

Amsterdam, Westergas Open to everyone interested in the barber industry! @barbersocietylive

ONLINE TICKET SALES START END OF YEAR

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Collection: Portrait Hair & Make-up: Jesús Vázquez & Marga (ES) Photography: Paula Amati @peluqueriajvazquez_

36 42 44 50 54 62 68 72 74 78

EDITORIAL A NOBLE MISSION Interview with Iman Khalaf TRENDS Landry Agres, Ümit Canta for Wahl, Yuki Kano, Aaron Michael, Jesús Vázquez, Paddy Corrigan, Roberto Dallo, Salon Schädelgärtner, Tyler Kelbert A MAN ON A MISSION Interview with Darío J. Braun PIG & HEN NAUTICAL BRACELETS PRODUCT NEWS Lifestyle, Grooming, In Shop SUSTAINABLE ENTREPRENEURSHIP BARBERS & THE CITY Ghent ALL IN THE FAMILY The only barber on board: Carl de Held BARBER LADY Interview with Kate Steen HOW TO WORK FOR FASHION CAMPAIGNS? Column Chris Foster CUTTING PEOPLE WITH ADDITIONAL NEEDS Q&A with Craig Henderson THIS BARBERPOLE IS TRAVELLING TO… Salon International (UK), The Hair Project (BE)

Editor in Chief Miranda Vlas, press@barbersociety.com Editor Leny Vlas Writers Steven Walker Contributor Chris Foster Art Direction Merktuig Amsterdam; Jarno Aafjes, Dagmar van den Brink Founding Editor Marc van de Hare Advertisements & Publisher BarberSociety B.V. / info@barbersociety.com Miranda Vlas +31 (0)6 54 212 432 ©BarberSociety is a publication of BarberSociety B.V. Nothing from this publication may be copied without the prior consent of the publisher. BarberSociety may not be included in a portfolio of magazines without prior written consent. BarberSociety is not responsible for any inaccuracies in this publication. BarberSociety is not responsible for any actions by third parties that could ensue from reading this publication. BarberSociety reserves the right to publish submitted materials entirely or partially without notification. More information is available at www.barbersociety.com.

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RESILIENCE

EDITORIAL

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In recent years the hairdressing industry, and therefore also the barbershops, have been experiencing difficult times. After Covid-19, we are now hit by high energy costs and inflation. Yet Barbers show time and again that they are able to adapt to changing circumstances. They are resilient and creative in dealing with setbacks.

In this winter edition a number of barbers will wear their hearts on their sleeves. They are open about the difficulties they experienced while running their business and share what insights they gained as a result. Iman Khalaf, founder of Nõberu of Sweden, actually thought he had failed with his product line a few years ago.

He took a different approach and the brand is now experiencing tremendous growth. Darío J. Braun will not be steered off course by economically trying times and has just moved to a large location where he can make his dreams come true and continue his

mission. Barber Carl is successful with his Barbershop Night and Belgian Barber Lady Kate Steen has lots of new plans with the brands of which she is an ambassador. Would you like to let your creativity flow and work in the fashion industry? Chris Foster, the official Gucci Barber, explains how to do this in his column.

Sustainability The high energy costs encourage many business owners to examine the sustainability of their barbershop to see how energy can be saved. This is not only good for saving pennies, you also contribute to the environment.

Take a look at the tips from a sustainability expert in the hairdressing industry on page 50.

In addition, a number of barbers share with us what they do with regard to this topic. There are certainly some good initiatives.

This has made me think, and

I have already applied some solutions to my barbershop.

Finally In keeping with the approaching Christmas season, I like the fact that you can read the story of Craig Henderson in this edition.

Craig is very committed to people with additional needs and makes a difference in his community.

Darío is also committed to a certain group and hopes that everyone, no matter what type of hair you have, can be welcomed in barbershops. It proves once again that many barbers have a big heart and are real people persons. They want to make a difference in someone’s life and make the world a little more beautiful. A beautiful thought for a hopeful start to 2023. I hope to meet you again in person at BarberSociety Live on Sunday, 23 April, or maybe I’ll see you at the battles? Take on that

challenge! You can register on the website at the end of December, when the tickets will go on sale too.

I wish you all a Creative, Inspiring and Successful New Year!

Marc van de Hare Founder BarberSociety Owner of Van de Hare Amsterdam Barbers

PS In this month of giving I would like to draw your attention to the cool Pig & Hen bracelets, see page 42. Do you fancy a city trip in the next few weeks?

Check out Barbers & the City Ghent on page 54.

Many barbers have a big heart and are real people persons 5

INTERVIEW WITH IMAN KHALAF, NÕBERU OF SWEDEN 6

@iman_khalaf @noberu_of_sweden

INTERVIEW

Iman Khalaf (42) stands at the helm of Nõberu of Sweden as Brand director, lead educator and product developer.

He immigrated to Sweden with his parents when he was nine years old. While still at school, he decided he wanted to become a hairdresser. It was an unconventional choice of profession for a son of Iranian immigrants. After completing hairdressing college, he worked for several years at a women’s salon, but soon discovered women’s hairdressing wasn’t really his thing. In his role as salon manager, he began searching for brands to use in his shop and discovered a gap in the market as there was not a brand offering a comprehensive product line. This inspired him to begin developing his own product line in 2016. Today Nõberu of Sweden is a highly successful and fast-growing comprehensive unisex product collection. Nõberu, which means noble in Japanese, is a brand with a clear vision and distinctive place in the market. It puts sustainability first with respect to every step of the process from ingredients to packaging. High time to catch up with Iman Khalaf to talk about building a brand and changing direction.

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Taking a road less travelled Iman’s decision to pursue a career in hairdressing was an unconventional step. It was not what his parents had envisioned for him. Iman explains: “I am an immigrant from Iran, I was 9 years old when I moved to Sweden with my parents. I was not that good at school, so I told my mom I wanted to be a hairdresser.

She just looked at me with a surprised expression. As a guy from Iran to be a hairdresser was not popular with my parents.

Within traditional Iranian families, you’re supposed to 8

become a dentist, teacher or doctor. That is the only way to success in their eyes.”

But Iman was determined to follow his dream and take his own path. “That was the beginning of my hairdressing background.

I completed hairdressing college and began practicing at some women’s hair salons, but soon discovered it wasn’t my thing.

But I didn’t really have a choice because 25 years ago we didn’t have any barbers at all in Sweden.

So I started working with both men and women.”

A spirit of entrepreneurism He was quick to climb the ladder in the Swedish hairdressing world and his entrepreneurial spirit came to the fore at a young age.

“I worked at a salon until I was 21 and was appointed manager within three years. After that I bought the shop from my former boss. When I was about 28, I came in second in a beard contest in Sweden – the Swedish Best Beard contest. That’s when I realised it’s okay for men to care about their grooming and style.”

As a guy from Iran, being a hairdresser was not popular with my parents This was the first inspirational step towards developing a product line that meets the contemporary needs of the industry and consumers. “I began searching for some brands to have in my shop. Back then the only brand we had in Sweden was a local brand called The Beard Family. The scents and the style didn’t match my shop’s style because they were too masculine.

They had a typical old-school barbering look and feel, overly rugged and masculine.”

Off to a flying start The products available in Sweden at the time did not correspond with the look and feel of Iman’s business: “My shop was sleeker, so I started looking for a more British brand and I found Truefitt and Hill. The product sales representative asked me: ‘Why don’t you start your own brand?’ I said: I have no idea how to do that. He said he could help me. And that’s how everything started. This guy helped me, and I contacted one of my friends who was an investor and asked him

if he’d like to be part of this trip. And he said yes, this sounds really good. So that’s how it started back in 2016.”

This sowed the seed for the growth of a new brand. “That’s how the idea of Nõberu of Sweden was born. I told my friends if I start something, I really want to start something that isn’t so masculine. They said: ‘What do you mean – not masculine? If you want to start a manly brand you need to be masculine, just look at the other grooming brands.

They’re all so masculine.’”

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Man in the mirror Iman was convinced that most men cannot relate to the image presented by the major brands: “How many guys like that do you know? Who are so masculine?

You’ve got to be woodsy, rock and roll, gangster, you name it.

I wanted to develop a brand based on a more equal thinking and that targets a more normal guy. An image that most men can relate to. The name of the brand is very important to me. The first name I fell in love with was Nobel.

But there was a problem: Alfred Nobel had taken that name.

I tried it with like 65 variations of this name, but to no avail because Alfred Nobel owned them all. My friends said give up.”

A name with a secret But Iman was determined to find a name that corresponds with his vision for the brand. “I searched for the Japanese word for noble – Nõberu means noble in Japanese. So I’d found our name.

The squiggle above the o is actually a moustache that isn’t perfect. Why? Because normally when you think of a man, you think about the perfect moustache.

If you don’t have the perfect moustache, you’re not man

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enough. With Nõberu I want to tell people that to be a man you don’t have to have the perfect moustache; you just have to be a man. So this is a secret in the logo that most people don’t know about.”

From A to Z Iman believes that having a comprehensive line of products is the key to success. “A few years ago, when the barber cult emerged, there was only one brand in the market: American Crew. Looking at the brand American Crew, it was so successful because there was a full line of products. All types of shampoos, gels, waxes, etc.

If you look at the brands now they’re focusing on specific product categories. So I said: If we’re going to be successful, we must have a full range brand.

Shave, skin, beard and hair.

It’s a challenge to have so many products that feature high quality from A to Z.” Going in a new direction Iman reached a turning point nearly four years ago when he determined that he wanted to take the brand in a totally new direction. “Three and a half years

ago, I said I had failed. The brand is not equal. We started Nõberu of Sweden because we wanted to be the brand that respects all people. The slogan at the time was: ‘For noble gentlemen only’.

Back then the brand was really masculine, which was typical at the beginning of the barber culture. I told them: I want to change. They said: ‘Are you joking?

Are you going to change the brand?’ Yes, give me some time, I’m going to think about it.”

“I attended a lecture given by a very famous Swedish entrepreneur. Someone asked: ‘What is the secret to having a successful brand?’ He answered: ‘We find a white space in the market.’ So, I went home and started thinking: Do we have a white space in the beauty products market? A white space that other big global brands have missed. One day I went to buy some perfume. I wanted a new kind of scent – so the guy showed me the brand Tom Ford. I said I really like this: Is this a men’s brand? ‘No,’ said the man: ‘It’s a unisex brand’. I said: What are you joking? ‘No, it’s a unisex brand.’ He showed me a very exclusive Swedish brand

Rising success Nõberu of Sweden is moving from success to success and continues to launch new products. “We currently have 61 products in our range.

We have every product category. You don’t need to have four brands in your barbershop. Sometimes you see barbershops with 20 different brands and it’s so ugly.” The distribution is also as exclusive as the products themselves. “Our products are available via barbershops, unisex salons, high end department stores and carefully selected online stores.”

that was also a unisex brand.

So I started thinking: if these brands can say they are unisex while they’re totally masculine, can we say that too?”

Finding the white space This caused Iman to take a closer look at the market.

“I looked closely at the big brands and saw that 95% of all the communications from big global players are directed at women, but people call them unisex. If these brands can call themselves unisex, can we call our brand unisex? So I sent out a survey to 100 women and asked how many of them use masculine roll-on deodorants.

45% of the girls said they use men’s roll-ons. I’d found our white space in the market.”

It was a milestone moment in the brand’s history: “I told my colleagues you need to change all the brands to be unisex, but unisex manly. Most big global brands focus on the feminine part, and we are focusing on the masculine part. We launched

the new brand image two months before Covid-19, it got off to a booming start but then nosedived as Covid-19 took hold.

But the next year we grew 65% percent and 45% the next year.

What happened was that we were the only brand that we can sell to the barbers and unisex salons. Our brand fits perfectly with both high-end barbershops and unisex salons.

We have 13,000 unisex salons and 1,000 barbershops in Sweden, so you can imagine how many doors are open for us.

This is what is happening right now with the brand – we are meeting with new distributors almost every day, everyone is talking about us. Our brand is growing so fast because we’re speaking a different language.

We are a unisex brand, with the focus being on the masculine side. All of our products, except for the beard products, can be used by women. Our products have a feminine touch but are masculine products.

So a masculine overtone, but a female undertone.”

Focussing on the future Looking to the future, Iman has a clear vision of what lies ahead.

“My goal: To keep finding good products, good solutions for barbershops and salons.”

He continues, “We could potentially launch in the US five years from now. It’s going to take some time. The focus right now is on taking care of the distributors. We’ve grown so much and so quickly, and we’ve changed from a barber brand to a unisex male brand. So we really want to work on maintaining and building what we have achieved.

The key word is education.

We have excellent ambassador programmes in all the countries in which we are active. It’s so important because education is the key to success. We’re committed to educating barbers, educators, and hairdressers.

All the distributors around the world need to have a team. They are working with the newest techniques and fashions for men. We really try to be the brand that barbers, hairdressers and distributors want to work with.”

More information www.noberu.se @noberu_of_sweden Distributor Benelux www.machette.eu @noberuofswedenbenelux 11

LANDRY AGRES

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FINALIST AIPP AWARDS 2021/2022, BEST MEN CATEGORY

Collection: Addicted Hair: Landry Agres, Milk San Sebastián (ES) Hair assistant: Laia Tost Photography & Retouch: Esteban Roca Make-up: Laia Tost Styling: Juan Camilo @landry1213, @milksansebastian

SPAIN

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Collection: Addicted Hair: Landry Agres, Milk San Sebastián (ES) Hair assistant: Laia Tost Photography & Retouch: Esteban Roca Make-up: Laia Tost Styling: Juan Camilo @landry1213, @milksansebastian

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Collection: Addicted Hair: Landry Agres, Milk San Sebastián (ES) Hair assistant: Laia Tost Photography & Retouch: Esteban Roca Make-up: Laia Tost Styling: Juan Camilo @landry1213, @milksansebastian

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Collection: Addicted Hair: Landry Agres, Milk San Sebastián (ES) Hair assistant: Laia Tost Photography & Retouch: Esteban Roca Make-up: Laia Tost Styling: Juan Camilo @landry1213, @milksansebastian

ÜMIT CANTA

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FOR WAHL PROFESSIONAL

Collection: Men Trendlook ’23 Hair: r.tattoo x barber / Ümit Canta for WAHL Photography: WAHL / Onur Fiore Outfits: r.tattoo x barber Tools: WAHL @umit.rtb, @wahlprogermany

AUSTRIA

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Collection: Men Trendlook ’23 Hair: r.tattoo x barber / Ümit Canta for WAHL Photography: WAHL / Onur Fiore Outfits: r.tattoo x barber Tools: WAHL @umit.rtb, @wahlprogermany

YUKI KANO

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FINALIST AUSTRALIAN MODERN BARBER AWARD 2022 (AMBA2022)

Collection: HOKORI Hair: Yuki Kano (AU) Photography: Reuben Chapman Special thanks to Greedy Fox Barbershop @yukikano

AUSTRALIA

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Collection: HOKORI Hair: Yuki Kano (AU) Photography: Reuben Chapman Special thanks to Greedy Fox Barbershop @yukikano

AARON MICHAEL

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Aaron Michael Hair and styling: Aaron Michael (UK) Photography: Liam Oakes Model: Kyle Armstrong Motorcycle assistance: Neil Hughes @am_barbershop

UNITED KINGDOM

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Aaron Michael Hair and styling: Aaron Michael (UK) Photography: Liam Oakes Model: Sean McMahon @am_barbershop

JESÚS VÁZQUEZ

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Collection: Portrait Hair & Make-up: Jesús Vázquez & Marga (ES) Photography: Paula Amati Retouch: Javier Villalabeitia Styling: V.M. Pan @peluqueriajvazquez_

SPAIN

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Collection: Portrait Hair & Make-up: Jesús Vázquez & Marga (ES) Photography: Paula Amati Retouch: Javier Villalabeitia Styling: V.M. Pan @peluqueriajvazquez_

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Collection: Portrait Hair & Make-up: Jesús Vázquez & Marga (ES) Photography: Paula Amati Retouch: Javier Villalabeitia Styling: V.M. Pan @peluqueriajvazquez_

Hair: Paddy Corrigan (IE) Photography: Dan Butler @paddy_corrigan_

PADDY CORRIGAN

IRELAND

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Hair: Paddy Corrigan (IE) Photography: Dan Butler @paddy_corrigan_

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Hair: Paddy Corrigan (IE) Photography: Dan Butler @paddy_corrigan_

ROBERTO DALLO

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Collection: POP IMPRESSION Hair: Roberto Dallo Lafuente (ES) Hair Assistant: María Carmona Photography: Jose Urrutia Retouch: Javier Villalabeitia Make-up: Roberto Peluqueros Styling: Francisco Javier Moral Products: American Crew Models: Zhakin Céspedes/ Misha Hill / Anthony Pujols/ Adar Lizarbe @robertopeluqueros

SPAIN

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Collection: POP IMPRESSION Hair: Roberto Dallo Lafuente (ES) Hair Assistant: María Carmona Photography: Jose Urrutia Retouch: Javier Villalabeitia Make-up: Roberto Peluqueros Styling: Francisco Javier Moral Products: American Crew Models: Zhakin Céspedes/ Misha Hill / Anthony Pujols/ Adar Lizarbe @robertopeluqueros

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Collection: POP IMPRESSION Hair: Roberto Dallo Lafuente (ES) Hair Assistant: María Carmona Photography: Jose Urrutia Retouch: Javier Villalabeitia Make-up: Roberto Peluqueros Styling: Francisco Javier Moral Products: American Crew Models: Zhakin Céspedes/ Misha Hill / Anthony Pujols/ Adar Lizarbe @robertopeluqueros

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Collection: POP IMPRESSION Hair: Roberto Dallo Lafuente (ES) Hair Assistant: María Carmona Photography: Jose Urrutia Retouch: Javier Villalabeitia Make-up: Roberto Peluqueros Styling: Francisco Javier Moral Products: American Crew Models: Zhakin Céspedes/ Misha Hill / Anthony Pujols/ Adar Lizarbe @robertopeluqueros

SALON SCHÄDELGÄRTNER

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Collection: KARFUNKELSTEIN Hair: Salon Schädelgärtner (DE) Art Direction: Julia Riepertinger Photography: Sebastian “STIP” Stiphout @schaedelgaertner

GERMANY

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Collection: KARFUNKELSTEIN Hair: Salon Schädelgärtner (DE) Art Direction: Julia Riepertinger Photography: Sebastian “STIP” Stiphout @schaedelgaertner

TYLER KELBERT

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Hair: Tyler Kelbert (USA) Photography: Damien Carney Model: Danielle Oyewole @Tyler_Kelbert

USA

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Hair: Tyler Kelbert (USA) Photography: Damien Carney Model: Danielle Oyewole @Tyler_Kelbert

INTERVIEW

At 25 years, the enterprising Darío J. Braun (32) was the youngest barber in the Dutch city of Haarlem to start his own barbershop. His career did not always run smoothly and brought him many insights. This has now led to the realisation of his dream. In fact, he has just been given the keys to a new large building in Haarlem to establish a beautiful concept there. Darío was born in Colombia.

Adopted as a baby by his Dutch parents Rob and Els, he thinks he has the best of both worlds. And Darío is on a mission! “I was able to turn my Colombian roots and my Dutch upbringing into my own thing”, he says.

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@darios.barbers

INTERVIEW DARÍO J. BRAUN Did you always want to be a hairdresser?

“My mother and my grandmother told me when I was 12: ‘If you don’t know what to do, you can always become a hairdresser.’ At the time, I thought, ‘Hairdresser?

I can become a professional footballer!’ - after all, I played football at a high level. At eighteen, after finishing my VMBO, I ended up studying Sport and Exercise, as I wanted to become a gym teacher. However, studying turned out not to be for me after all. When my mother started talking about hairdressing again

Whatever hair type you have, you should be welcome because she thought it suited me so well, a friend introduced me to ‘No Jokes’ in Leiden, a specialised mixed afro hair salon in the higher segment. They had a lot of clients with curly and frizzy hair.

I then followed the hairdressing school-based training ‘All-round hairdresser’ at the Dutch Hairdressing Academy and learned the practice of the trade from No Jokes’ owner Ross.

A beautiful Surinamese man who showed me how cool and beautiful hairdressing can be. Precisely because of the multicultural world I ended up in, I got to know

myself better and was able to develop. The techniques I used then like skin fades, precise contours, etc., I still apply now.”

How did you go on from there?

“Eventually, at the age of 23, I was a business manager at the very same No Jokes in Leiden.

After joining a hair salon in The Hague for a short while, I finally ended up at Pierôt in Haarlem.

I was allowed to run their barbershop and could finally concentrate on just men’s hairdressing. Because that 37

You have a clear vision, can you tell us a bit about that?

“Precisely because of my mixed background and the fact that at ‘No Jokes’ the foundations were laid for handling afro hair, my vision was reinforced. In my barbershop, anyone with any hair type should be welcome and should be able to be served.

I always quote this example: a young Surinamese girl wants to enter the hairdressing profession and goes to hairdressing school.

But in all the years she spends there, she learns nothing about her own hair. The worlds of Black Hair and European hairstyles are literally black and white.”

So you are on a mission now?

“Yes! Even now in 2022, Black Hair courses are still not recognised by the senior secondary vocational education in the Netherlands.

I really see it as my mission to create awareness for this. Even if you could get an optional module Black Hair in your regular hairdressing course of, say, 3 months, it would already be profitable! This really comes from my heart. I think every hairdresser should have some understanding of it so you don’t have to turn away clients for that reason.

Not just afro, but Asian hair as well.

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I don’t think it’s of our time that these people can’t go everywhere.

Everyone in our society mixes with one another and let us, as hairdressers, make sure we can build a bridge between Black Hair and European hair and everything in between. By specialising in this as well, you can appeal to a much wider clientele.”

You now have two businesses?

“That’s right, I have a business in Haarlem and one in Leiden.

Our speciality is being ‘all-round’; from student cut to afro! Our team now consists of six people.

We rotate between businesses.

My wife Nadia Lopez is also part of the team; I trained her myself.

That I was able to inspire my wife into this profession is, I think, my greatest accomplishment!

When I opened my second business, I experienced how difficult entrepreneurship can be because you have to split yourself up. In the beginning, Leiden didn’t run the way I wanted it to. The staff turnover was too high. Giving your heart to two businesses is just very difficult, you no longer have an overview.

Leiden ended up being a very nice learning experience. It made me realise that I needed a permanent manager and good people I can trust and together with whom I could build something.

The manager in Leiden I trained myself. He was a customer and wanted to learn how to cut hair.

Most of the people in my business are self-employed and rent a chair. That was, incidentally, my salvation during Covid!”

What inspires you?

“America, 100%! There, barbershops never went away. It’s a fusion of cultures and everyone is equal in the barbershop. It’s a bit more urban and hip-hop there.

That’s me all over. So I don’t take my inspiration from classic old-school barbershops because that doesn’t suit me. I want to be me and I can identify much more with the black urban barbershops from America. That culture and

You have to share to multiply

was what I wanted! I never really liked blow-drying but I do love the barber’s precision work and dealing with male customers.

I enjoyed working at Pierôt for two years, until I got an entrepreneurial urge. I bumped into a property in a beautiful street in Haarlem and was immediately sold. This is where I wanted to start my own barbershop. An acquaintance was willing to assist me financially and so I started DARIOS Barbers in November 2015. I am proud to say that in Haarlem, which is a real barbershop town, I was the first young barber to start my own business. You could even say that I set the barber trend in Haarlem back then because many more barbershops have been added.”

that feeling have been with me for 14 years. For me, music is very important. With music, you can show who you are and what you stand for. You can hear 90s hip-hop in my salon. In the morning soul music, R&B and later in the day it goes towards 2Pac and The Notorious B.I.G.”

How did education come your way?

“I really enjoy standing in front of a group! I wanted to be a gym teacher for a reason and I was also a football coach for my friends’ team. In that year of Sport & Exercise, I really learned to teach. In addition, my mother is also a primary school teacher!

Both at Ross and Pierôt, I provided training courses. Once I opened my business, it started playing an even more important role. In particular, women hairdressers who wanted to get better at the men’s trade wanted to apprentice with me. My teaching methods are great for that. I also started teaching for the DEPOT brand

and now I give weekly training sessions. During Covid, I started DARIOS Education. I then had time to write out an annual training course and salon trainings. I was done with free training. It happened that I trained an apprentice who then opened a business on ‘my’ street.

My team members also have educator aspirations so I hope to expand this more seriously with them in the coming years.”

And now you have also recently become a BaByliss Pro ambassador?

“BaByliss Pro approached me because they were looking for someone like me, someone they didn’t yet have on their team.

I bring in a bit of hip-hop, so to speak. Naturally, that flattered me. I had a good connection with the people working at BaByliss Pro and am enthusiastic about their tools. I think it’s cool that they keep coming up with new products. That sits well with me, innovating. They have given me a

bigger stage to communicate my vision. It is fantastic that after 14 years of hard work with blood, sweat and tears, I notice that my vision that everyone should be welcome in your business regardless of hair type, is seen and understood. Also by the brands. That gives me so much satisfaction! I see such collaborations as the crowning glory of my work.”

Tell us about your dream that is now becoming a reality?

“My experiences with two businesses made me realise that I function best with one big business where I am 100% present. That also fits better with where I want to go with my vision.

Opposite the station square in Haarlem, we found a new 100m2 building with room for six barber chairs, two men’s beauty rooms AND we are going to build a photo studio there! It will be a content place in-house where I can get creative without leaving the shop.

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Making photos and films like my vlog, but also giving training sessions. After seven years of having DARIOS Barbers at my current location, it is now time for me to take the next step. I want to create something with the best barbers in Haarlem and the surrounding area that is not yet being done. To have a man who wants a haircut be unable to ignore us and to check us out first.

My aim is that customers who walk in can be served within an hour and don’t necessarily need to

have made an appointment one or two weeks in advance. I want to work towards a luxurious all-in men’s concept where you have everything in terms of men’s beauty under one roof. According to my firm belief, it is something men are looking for, but they don’t know where to go. I see these large premises and the opportunities they offer as the end game for myself. My creative hub where I will spend the next 10 to 20 years.

This is really my dream. I hope to build that together with my wife.”

How will you do it?

“An interior design company has come up with a design. And I want to attract barbers who are as good or better than me. I want to start hiring employees again and pay them handsomely as well. I know that self-employed people earn more but are also more at risk. I want to give my staff stability and reward their qualities well. You have to share to multiply.

And maybe soon there will be a star performer on my team who wants to set up his own business after 3 or 4 years that I can help him with, to perhaps start the next DARIOS Barbers.”

Anything else you want to share?

“I hope that I have inspired other barbers with my story to think about my vision and message.

Surely everyone should be welcome in every barbershop. As a barber, you should have at least some understanding of every hair type so you never have to turn anyone away. I really hope my story has created some awareness.”

With music, you can show who you are and what you stand for 40

L I F E ST Y L E

PIG & HEN’S NAUTICAL BRACELETS In the early 16th century, Dutch explorers set sail to unknown parts of the world. Along the way, they were forced to endure the deadly seas which were home to a graveyard of shipwrecks. Often the only survivors were the pigs and chickens on board, kept alive by the floating wooden crates they were transported in. Marked as a good omen, sailors started getting tattoos of a pig and a chicken to protect themselves from disaster across the sea. They hoped that this would help them survive the worst storms and sail them safely back to their loved ones.

Inspired by this story of the pig and the chicken, ‘Pig & Hen’ was created; a challenging and stylish bracelet brand from Amsterdam. At Pig & Hen everything is handmade, with the greatest care and an attention to detail. The brand uses exclusive nautical materials so that the bracelets can last a lifetime. This makes them strong, unique and, above all, durable.

Sustainability At Pig & Hen they do their very best to guarantee an exceptional customer experience as well as contributing to a balanced world.

By looking closely at how they efficiently operate production whilst keeping the environment

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at the forefront of creation, you can wear your Pig & Hen bracelets with peace of mind.

They achieve these goals by setting themselves the highest possible standard as a company: that of excellence. “As an employer and part of the international fashion community, we are taking big steps towards the most sustainable way of producing. For example, we only use materials that do not contain harmful ingredients, and we strive to prevent waste and to reuse rope and closures where possible.

Because of this position, we can contribute with our bracelets to a better world for everyone and also for the generations after us.”

Diversity within their team is also important: “As proud people of Amsterdam, we are loyal to our local heroes. Our team consists of a diverse group of fine individuals with very different ages, backgrounds and origins.

In our studio the working language is friendship and togetherness.

Every day many cultures and life stories are connected with each other. This ensures that our team is as diverse as the people we make our bracelets for.”

More information www.pighen.com

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PIG & HEN 1

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LIFESTYLE

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Little Lewis DBL Ivory - Pigeon Blue | Silver € 59,95 Brontide 4mm Lapiz Lazuli | Silver € 79,95 Navarch 6mm Navy | Silver € 89,95 Gorgeous George Black | Black € 59,95 Salty Steve Black | Black € 59,95

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Catena Venetian Navy | Silver € 89,95 Navarch 9mm Navy | Silver € 89,95 Little Lewis DBL Black | Black € 59,95

Order online: www.pighen.com

LIFESTYLE

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AMERICAN CREW ANTI-DANDRUFF + DRY SCALP SHAMPOO The American Crew Anti-Dandruff + Dry Scalp Shampoo relieves any irritating itch and helps prevent dandruff and dry scalp. Leaves hair feeling refreshed, hydrated, and manageable. Contains powerful cleansing ingredients formulated to keep the scalp clean, healthy, and flake-free by washing away excess oils and irritants that lead to dandruff, while simultaneously moisturizing to combat possible dry scalp symptoms.

It is the perfect product for this winter!

More information www.americancrew.com

GROOMING

DEPOT – THE SECRET IS IN OUR FRAGRANCE

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Fresh black pepper is an iconic fragrance within the Depot range. The fresh and rugged fragrance can be found in various products, making it a real hero! Experience this delicious scent, choose a shaving product

or go for a wonderful home fragrance in the form of a candle, spray or diffuser.

More information www.depotmaletools.com

DAPPER DAN BODY WASH The first Body Wash from the traditional brand Dapper Dan. With the well-known and popular fragrance from the Gold series of tart, fruity orange peel, delicate wood notes, soapy sage and musk. Leaves a silky feel on the skin and has an addictive scent that is long lasting and noticeable.

More information www.pomadeshop.com

NEW NÕBERU OF SWEDEN POWDER WAX

More information www.noberu.se Distributor Benelux: www.machette.eu

GROOMING

Nõberu is launching The Powder Wax, a wax in a powder format. Nõberu Powder Wax leaves a fantastic texture and flexibility with a matte finish. The Nõberu Powder Wax can be shaped to fit different types of styling for all hair lengths. Scent : Tobacco Vanilla.

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GOLDEN BEARDS ORGANIC BEARD OIL ARTIC The Danish Organic Beard Oil ARCTIC (30 ml / 1 Oz) is made solely from natural oils that soften and moisturize beard and skin.

With a mix of carrier oils and essentials oils you will have the feeling that your beard is in the Artic. Take just one deep breath and you will feel the freshness from head to toe!

More information www.goldenbeards.com

NEW OAK EAU DE PARFUM - URSPRUNG

GROOMING

Ursprung is the first fine fragrance project of the men’s care brand OAK and their first product for men as well as women and all people who do not need these categories.

URSPRUNG is created by OAK and Geza Schön in Berlin. The Eau de Parfum is an intensly fresh, invigorating fragrance whose transparency gives you an idea of the power of the composition right from the moment you smell it.

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A top note of peppery-fresh is entwined with herbaceousfruity notes of clary sage and elderflower. The heart note is very transparent with iris, hedione and freesia.

The base is a masculine interplay of balsamic and leathery components with

a dominant woodyamber note and the magical depth of real oakmoss.

More information www.oak-ursprung.com

GAMMA+ X-ERGO CLIPPER X-Ergo is the professional modular clipper with microchipped magnetic motor for more power.

Perfectly balanced modular ergonomic design. Fully adjustable DLC fixed taper blade with DLC shallow cutter can be easily zero gapped. Customizable Click or Freestyle levers, tight or stretch taper length mods and 8 professional magnetic guards.

More information www.gammapiu.it/en/products/clipper-x-ergo

This perfectly balanced alloy gives an unforgettable cutting performance.

This product is made for the most accomplished artists. Manufactured from a secret composition of rare blended steels and other alloying materials, these scissors represent the absolute pinnacle of craftsmanship embodied by truly superior qualities. Simple yet elegant.

IN SHOP

SAKURA SCISSOR SS-40

More information www.shears.nl 49

B AC KG R O U N D : S U STA I N A B I L I T Y

AS A HAIRDRESSER, HOW CAN YOU RUN A BUSINESS SUSTAINABLY? Now that energy bills have risen sharply and the climate is changing, the need for running a sustainable business has increased. Pieter Patje, retired hairdresser, specialises in sustainability. He has published various articles on sustainability specifically for the hairdressing industry and is the author/publisher of the Dutch book ‘Sustainability in the Hairdressing Sector’ part 1. We asked him if he could shed some light on how barbershops and men’s hairdressers can contribute to sustainability.

What is sustainability?

According to the Oxford dictionary, it means: [something] that can continue or be continued for a long time or involving the use of natural products and energy in a way that does not harm the environment.

Pieter Patje

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Sustainability is much broader than frequently used clichés such as waste separation, economical use of water and LED lighting.

These things also help, of course, but sustainability is mainly about CO2 Neutral Entrepreneurship, the Circular Economy, the Ecological Footprint of individual barbershops/hairdressers, The New Economy, Sustainable Entrepreneurship and more.

In my view, it is important for the hairdressing industry to recognise the urgency of measures to combat climate change and to start running sustainable businesses. Involve your employees in this and exchange ideas with them about how to run a sustainable business.

What can you do?

There are many ways in which you can work sustainably as a hairdresser. Below is a list of the most important ones that can be easily implemented in the short term. As a hairdressing business, you can take a sustainable direction in no time.

Green energy supplier Switch to a green energy supplier.

Banking and insurance Bank and insure your business with a sustainable bank and insurance company.

Good waste management Separate your waste: glass, paper/cardboard, plastic, textiles, organic waste, aluminium, light metals, residual waste.

Dispose of packaging with a chemical content as chemical waste. Do you want to contribute to recycling?

Make sure that the empty packaging is thoroughly rinsed.

Hair recycling In a number of countries, there are hair recycling projects in which the hair is collected and used as a reusable resource. New products such as biocomposite recycling bags are manufactured from it, for example. It can also be used to treat skin burns and to combat hydrocarbon contamination.

Water management Use special water-saving taps (perlators), switch off taps during washing/rinsing, check taps and sinks regularly for leaks.

Natural hair care products Work with and sell only natural hair care products.

Energy Use energy more efficiently: The use of energy-efficient equipment (washing machine, dishwasher, dryer, hair dryer, clippers, adapters, coffee maker, etc.) is highly recommended.

Use eco-friendly disposable towels so that fabric towels no longer need to be washed and dried. This also saves water.

Where possible, choose LED lighting If possible, install solar panels

If possible, remove paving/ concrete/asphalt out the front and at the sides of the building and put plants in instead (good for biodiversity and better rainwater drainage).

This also applies to the roof and front and side walls (keeps out cold and heat).

New build and renovation When building or renovating new buildings, consider the circular economy first, use second-hand and/or recycled materials.

Tools and sustainable alternatives Do you want to run a business that takes care of the environment and our planet? Ecological hairdressing products will help you. They are in some ways a ‘green’ alternative: biodegradable, sustainably produced or recyclable.

The range of sustainable tools for hairdressers is increasing.

Few manufacturers, although there are some, are aware of their ecological footprint, and the negative effects of climate change and plastic pollution on nature. Every decision and every action has an impact on the environment. Modern technology is increasing the possibilities for offering an environmentally friendly alternative. For example, natural materials such as straw and resin are suitable for making a biodegradable plastic for paint brushes, combs and hair brushes and hairdressing capes can be made from corn. This significantly reduces CO2 emissions, while allowing you to achieve the same results. These products, each in their own way, have a positive impact on our behaviour in the barbershop/men’s hair salon and on the environment. Choose these ecologically sustainable products and contribute to a cleaner future without compromising on quality.

Ask the better barbershop wholesalers for more information.

Ethical issues, something to think about…

Badgers, wild boar, cattle, goats and sheep are bred especially for the hair cosmetics industry (badger hair, wild boar hair, leather, goat hair and fur). These animals are kept in cages that are too small, are often deformed so as not to damage their precious fur and skin, and face a horrible death. These practices often occur in Third World countries, where the producers responsible care very little about the harrowing working conditions of their employees (long working days, coming into contact with chemicals, low wages, etc.).

These producers are also less concerned with the chemical waste of their product, which ends up on the land and in the sewers of the local population.

Waste streams are discharged into nearby rivers and lakes where local residents wash themselves, brush their teeth and do their laundry, often resulting in all sorts of terrible incurable diseases and conditions.

Animal testing for cosmetics has been banned in the EU since 2013. Despite the ban, there are still companies in the hair cosmetics industry that continue to test on animals. Fortunately, there are also hair cosmetics companies that take people, the environment and society seriously and obtain the prestigious B Corp certification.

It is the most complete and stringent sustainability certificate available. There is also more focus on fair chains, without malpractice in factories and on plantations where the working conditions in the chain are closely monitored. Before going into business with a hair cosmetics brand, do your due dilligence.

Author: Pieter Patje 51

B AC KG R O U N D : S U STA I N A B I L I T Y

Paddy Corrigan, Area9, Dublin (IE) “Together we can make a big difference”

Darío J. Braun, DARIOS Barbers, Haarlem and Leiden (NL) “With me moving into a new business, this is the perfect opportunity to start making my premises as sustainable as possible!

My wife is a very big advocate of that anyway, and she got to me as well, haha! I’m also thinking of starting my own product line in a few years’ time.

Then I will definitely look at how I can start using as many natural ingredients as possible and to make sure nothing is tested on animals. In particular, I want my own product line to be able to help everyone. Products that are also suitable for Black Hair because they need different care with much more emphasis on hydration. I’m not going to use a white label but I really want to develop my own products so that every hair type can benefit from them. Because also in terms of products, it is very black and white and between these two extremes, I want to build that bridge.”

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BARBERS ON

“When we got our shop done up, we got all the best wiring, etc. After Covid, I really started looking at the environmental aspects of our business.

During the pandemic we used a lot of masks, gowns, towels and such, which created a lot of waste. We’re making a real effort to use disposable towels rather than so many textile towels. We were getting our towels laundered twice a week, now we’re down to maybe two to three times a month. We’re trying to reduce waste. We used to throw out three big bin bags of waste every week. With this in mind, we’ve asked our product suppliers to stop packing everything with lots of Styrofoam padding.

It’s a small step that when taken collectively with all the other shops can make a big difference.”

SUSTAINABILITY

Iman Khalaf, Nõberu of Sweden, Stockholm (SE) “We aim to be as sustainable as possible. Our products are all made locally in Sweden.

We only use recycled plastic, so all the packing and labelling is recycled.”

“Oyster mushrooms are being grown on our coffee grounds”

Kate Steen, Haar & Barbier, Brugge (BE) “As an entrepreneur, sustainability always comes into play. We try to minimise our impact on the environment without sacrificing the customer or quality. The brand Tonsor 1951, for which I am ambassador, is already very involved in this as well. Among other things, they pay attention to sustainable and recyclable packaging and to sustainable production and distribution processes. For instance, our ground coffee goes to a mini oyster mushroom farm, where they grow oyster mushrooms on our coffee grounds. Going into the future, sustainability is very important, you have to anticipate that.”

Carl de Held, Barbershop Carl, Katwijk a/d Rijn (NL) “Since we took over larger premises about 3.5 years ago, we have been working on sustainability. We have double-glazed windows and everything is insulated. We had high-efficiency boilers put in and our aim is to have about 40 solar panels installed on the roof before the summer. We have been separating plastic and paper for years and all our lights have LED lights. At product level, I don’t really concern myself with that. Products just have to be good and exclusive.”

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BARBERS & THE CITY

We showcase a different city in each edition of BarberSociety magazine as a source of inspiration.

In this edition, we’re spotlighting the beautiful Belgium city of Ghent. Check out Ghent’s amazing barbershops and the hotspots local barbers say you shouldn’t miss when visiting their city.

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BARBERS & THE CITY

ROMAIN Verbroederingstraat 19 9050 Ghent Belgium @romain_ghent www.romainghent.be ROMAIN stands for complete and high-quality care for men: from barbershop to grooming products and cigars. They are one of the few barbershops in Belgium that shave with a straight razor, sharpened on natural stone.

This is an authentic craft and requires a lot of knowledge and precision. Head barber and founder Stijn De Sutter is the first and only master barber of the famous Italian shaving family Scapicchio in Belgium. ROMAIN also manufactures grooming products such as shaving soaps and perfumes in collaboration with a local perfumer. They also have a fumoir where you can smoke an exclusively selected 56

collection of quality cigars, whether or not accompanied by a good whiskey or rum.

Of course, the cigars can also be purchased together with beautiful and practical accessories. Stijn says: “We go for quality over quantity and we particularly want to provide excellent service for our customers.”

OUR HOTSPOTS Cocktail & Cigarbar Yvonne Kliniekstraat 68 bus 0001 9050 Ghent At ROMAIN, we could no longer fit all of our passions into one business, which is why YVONNE opened its doors just 50 metres away. Finally a cocktail bar in our neighbourhood that serves the best cocktails!

Vier Tafels Plotersgracht 6 9000 Ghent +32 (0)9 225 05 25 @vier_tafels www.viertafels.be As a Belgian, it is very difficult to choose one restaurant, but if I had to choose, then I would go for Vier Tafels in the Patershol in Ghent city centre. I’ve been going there all my life. It always feels a bit like coming home.

Manteca Cataloniëstraat 2 9000 Ghent Jazz is a big passion of mine and I prefer going to a bar over a club. My favourite haunt is Jazzcafé Manteca.

SCHAAP tailors Zombeekstraat 23 9031 Ghent +32 497 50 32 05 @schaap_tailors www.schaaptailors.be My favourite men’s shop is my personal tailor, being the tailor of SCHAAP. I go there for the quality and the personal service.

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BARBERS & THE CITY

Barbier Pourbaix Bij Sint-Jacobs 12 9000 Ghent Belgium +32 9 335 87 83 @barbierpourbaix.gent www.barbierpourbaix.be Barbier Pourbaix was founded in 2017 and is located in the heart of Ghent. Igor Pourbaix is a young entrepreneur, but with an old soul.

This is reflected in the barbershop.

A more authentic barbershop is almost impossible, many pieces of furniture are 100 years old! As the son of two parents who are hairdressers, Igor Pourbaix has been fascinated by the profession from an early age. He says: “Of course, this is not strange when you grow up in a salon among the furniture, the hair, the customers and the fun atmosphere with

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both parents as hairdressers. This made me become fascinated by the profession. Later, it became clear that cutting men’s hair specifically was my preference.

About the barbershop itself, I can only proudly say that it is a gem!”

OUR HOTSPOTS The Cobbler 1898 The Post Graslei 16 9000 Ghent +32 9 391 53 79 @thecobblerghent www.1898thepost.com/en/ the-cobbler/ This is an impressive business! This cocktail bar also appeals to me because of its authentic decor.

Mokabon Donkersteeg 37 Ghent +32 9 225 71 95 @mokabon_cafe www.mokabon.be An old-fashioned coffee house. Tasty & cosy!

Crossroads Classic Tattooing Kortedagsteeg 2A Ghent @crossroads_classic_tattooing YAYO (Carlos) is a fantastic craftsman and has a huge passion for it. Especially for old-school tattoos. @yayo.tattooer

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©2017 - Balder Deschildre - All rights reserved

BARBERS & THE CITY

Barbier Tom Kortrijkse Steenweg 108 9000 Ghent Belgium +32 (0)9 251.51.15 @barbier_tom www.barbiertom.be Barbier Tom is a classic no nonsense barbershop where everyone is welcome, from business manager to homeless person. Friendliness and service are their priorities. Manager Tom Audoore says: “We make it as enjoyable as possible with a cup of coffee or a draught beer. We make sure our customers always leave with a smile. Together with our great team, we keep an eye on innovations and we are always looking to implement them.”

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OUR HOTSPOTS Zuru Zuru Ramen Kortrijksesteenweg 110 bus 001, 9000 Ghent +32 (0)9 377 71 61 @zuruzururamen www.zuruzuru-ramen.be When the best ramen in the whole world is made in your neighbourhood, it’s not hard to name our favourite restaurant!

Cafe De Karper Kortrijksesteenweg 2 9000 Ghent +32 (0)495 280 707 www.cafedekarper.be For a nice pint of beer!

Kaffee Plansjee Hoogpoort 61 9000 Ghent +32 475 55 16 46 For dancing and partying, go to Kaffee Plansjee.

Dhaene Tailor Kortrijksesteenweg 61 9830 Sint-Martens-Latem +32 9 2823708 @dhaenetailor www.dhaenetailor.com Dhaene Tailor is our favourite men’s shop!

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©2015 - Balder Deschildre - All rights reserved

©2015 - Balder Deschildre - All rights reserved

A L L-I N T H E FA M I LY

Both barber Carl de Held (52) and his wife Sandy de Held-Minnee come from Dutch hairdressing families. Together, they run a large business in the Dutch village of Katwijk a/d Rijn with a women’s salon and barbershop. About 10 years ago, Carl decided to follow his heart and only cut 62

men’s hair. His past as the only barber on board with the Dutch Royal Navy certainly contributed to this. He wears the same white barber jacket as grandfather Bram Minnee used to and he has a tattoo on his arm of barber’s scissors and a razor.

“This is not a job. This is just fun.”

@carl.kapper.barbier

THE ONLY BARBER ON BOARD Did you always want to be a hairdresser?

“No, as a teenager I wanted to drive a big American truck!

If I hadn’t had a second cousin who was a barber, I wouldn’t be a barber now! As a child, my hair was always cut by my second cousin Gert-Jan de Best. Then, when it was busy, he would ask me to sweep the establishment in exchange for Snickers. Every time I came in, he would shout, ‘Here

comes my successor!’ Years later, as a 16-year-old boy, I was filling shelves at the local supermarket.

My second cousin was shopping there and asked if I wanted to work with him in his salon, he needed an apprentice. And so I started working for him. I then joined the on-the-job hairdressing training course (BBL) and he taught me the trade. Until I became a barber on board with the Dutch Royal Navy during my military service!”

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Haircuts, nattering, whiskey, beer and music Barber on board with the Dutch Royal Navy, how did that happen?

“The former Valkenburg airfield is in Katwijk. There were many people from the navy there.

When I was called up for military service, they encouraged me to join the navy. ‘You can become a barber and see something of the world, because barbers always go sailing.’ After passing the examination and undergoing naval training, I then joined the Dutch Royal Navy as a barber on board.”

That must have been a special time?

“Yes, it was a great experience!

Many things happened. I was also deployed to the war in the former Yugoslavia and later I sailed on Zr. Ms. Tromp with a squadron of three ships where I was the only barber on board. Every Thursday morning, I was taken by RIB (ed: dinghy) to one of the other ships to cut hair. Or a cable was stretched out between the boats and then, on the high seas, I was pulled from one ship to another with a pulley. On the boat a room would be set up as a barbershop, usually a detention cell with a chair in it. There I would be cutting hair for a day and a half. When we entered the harbour on Friday evening, I would walk back to my base ship the Tromp via the shore. I did that for 3.5 years and enjoyed it so much that 64

I applied three times to become a professional. But due to rounds of cutbacks, no more professionals were hired then.

Luckily, because otherwise I wouldn’t have had what I have now! So because I am a veteran myself, veterans get a 10% discount on a treatment of their choice at my establishment, on presentation of their veteran card. This is my way of helping veterans.”

Do you have another good story from that time?

“Yes, I remember something clearly. One day, a bigwig came on board, a staff officer from another ship. He wanted an immediate haircut but my schedule was full. So I had to tell him ‘no’ and he didn’t like that at all. He reported it to the chief logistics officer who ordered me to cut his hair anyway. So I did his haircut. I finished it in six minutes, and he left with a bad haircut.

Shouldn’t have pulled rank!”

Did your passion for barbering start in the navy?

“In the navy, the first seed was definitely sowed for barbering.

I only cut men’s hair there, a lot of shaving up and block heads.

Typical navy haircuts. After the navy, I worked for about two years as a manager in an establishment in Rijnsburg for my second cousin, after which I was able to take over

that business in 1996. Years later, when the joy of that business started to fade, Bertus and Leen from Schorem just appeared on TV. I thought, “I want that too, I’m done cutting women’s hair”, and joined Schorem as an apprentice. That’s where the flame for the men’s profession was properly fanned, and it became the go-ahead to start doing what I really love. I set up a corner in my establishment as a barbershop and since then I have only been cutting men’s hair. Now, in my current business in Katwijk aan de Rijn which is a lot bigger, I have fully separated the ladies’ section from the barbershop. We work with 14 people in total. There are ten chairs in the ladies’ section and two in the barbershop.

I am the only one who only does the men. Although I often have barberbabe Karina working by my side.”

Why didn’t you close the ladies’ section?

“In a village like Katwijk a/d Rijn, the revenue from ladies is very important. After all, I am a business owner as well as a barber.

I also enjoy having a large team around me, working together and managing people. It brings me joy to see a female customer, too, leave the shop satisfied.”

You come from a hairdressing family, can you tell us a bit about that?

“About three-and-a-half years ago, I got the chance to take over my wife’s uncle’s hair salon in Katwijk aan de Rijn together with her when my own business in Rijnsburg, which I had owned since I was 25, became too small.

Opa Minnee Pui Kerkstraat Carl & Sandy

My wife is the fourth generation to have a hair salon at that location.

I myself am a third generation hairdresser, after my uncle and second cousin. Although my wife comes from the Minnee hairdressing family, who are well known here in the bulb region, she is not a hairdresser herself but works part-time as a hostess/ receptionist in our hair salon.

Behind the scenes, both of us are entrepreneurs. Her greatgrandfather was the first generation about 100 years ago, then her grandfather was succeeded by her uncle and so now it is our turn. Her father chose the carpentry/painting trade. Sandy herself worked in healthcare for many years.

When I first visited her home, my mother-in-law told her daughter, ‘No way, another hairdresser?

You would have been better off coming home with an electrician, then we could have built our own house. We have enough hairdressers in our family!’

But in the end, it is still a special thing that we are continuing the business that her greatgrandfather started.”

What changes in the sector did you see over the years?

“The Netherlands was a country of unisex hair salons and fortunately you see many barbershops on the streets again, a place of their own for men. And I am not talking about the Turkish hair salons; in my eyes, “a grade 1, a line and done” should not be labelled a barbershop. You should be able to do more than that: from modern to old school haircuts including shaving treatments.

I also think a cool old-school look of the barbershop is part of it.”

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You organise a Barbershop Night, what does that entail?

“Yes, I organise those once a month on a Wednesday night.

Just men among themselves who can walk in without an appointment. No women, apart from barberbabe Karina, but haircuts, nattering, whiskey, beer and music. I put on my own playlist of Elvis, ACDC and Rock & Roll and enjoy it immensely. As do my customers! I started organising these evenings this year and I already have regular customers for them. Women go to the beauty salon, men go to the barber.”

Why do customers return to you?

“I think it has to do with my passion and enthusiasm. I am always open to learning and trying out new things. Customers notice that.

It’s my work but also my hobby.

I can still get a kick out of creating a beautiful haircut.

I read specialist literature, follow training courses and I keep developing. For instance, I also absolutely love visiting BarberSociety Live!”

What is your biggest blunder?

“Years ago, I had just put the blade on a customer’s upper lip to shave away the hair. At that moment, a staff member asked him something and he replied, resulting in a huge cut on his upper lip. We could laugh about it afterwards but it was dramatic at the time. He left with a huge plaster on his upper lip! Since then, we have a rule: when I am shaving a customer, no employee is allowed to talk to that customer.”

Will you raise prices now that energy costs have risen?

“We always index our prices on 1 December. We deliberately don’t do this on 1 January because everyone will have just finished the expensive festive month by 66

then. We take into account the 4.5% wage increase set out in the Dutch CLA on 1 July 2022. Still, we will not include the energy increase and inflation very heavily in a price increase. We are thinking of a 5-6% price increase, you don’t want to lose customers.

Fortunately, with us they always have the choice of our annual subscription, with that they get EUR 50 as a gift straight away.”

Do you think a family member will follow in your footsteps?

“I have two daughters, aged 20 and 17. The eldest has no interest in the business but the youngest especially likes the business side of things. She has always said she wants to take over the business after studying Business Administration, which she wants to do. But we put absolutely no pressure on her. She shouldn’t go into something she doesn’t like or feel passion for.”

What is your dream for the future?

“My dream has actually already come true! I have a beautiful, bigger shop in an authentic street in a characteristic building from 1910 with separate barbershop and women’s salon. I am 52 years old now and in about 15 years I hope my daughter will have taken over the business or I will have sold it. Then I think it would be great to still be able to cut my old customers’ hair two days a week in a shed with a chair. With a cigar, a cup of coffee and some whiskey, of course. Because, after all, hairdressers can never do without people.”

Anything else you want to share with our readers?

“Keep enjoying your profession, be open to change. Be creative, as a barber but also definitely as an business person.”

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Together we can achieve much more than alone 68

@kate_s_barberella @haarenbarbier

INTERVIEW

PERSONALITY IS KEY Belgian Barber Lady Kate Steen (38) has been running a business in Bruges, Belgium, with her partner Annelies for seven years. When she talks passionately about the barber profession, you can feel her energy. It is with good reason that she is the ambassador for MOSER, Joico and the Italian grooming brand Tonsor 1951. After some years in the woodworking world, she decided to jump into the barber profession at the age of 31 and plans to pursue it for many years to come. Her main focus is the enhancing of her customers’ personality. It is therefore not surprising that she has a distinct style herself. You will rarely hear her clients say “Just do my hair like last time”.

From wood to cutting hair, can you explain?

“I have been together for over 10 years with my partner Annelies Steelant who had been working in the hairdressing industry for quite some time. I myself was a project supervisor at a woodworking company. However, I always had a soft spot for how people looked, how you could link their personality to their appearance and to their hairstyle or beard. I looked up to Annelies; how she could change people hair by hair and make everyone happy and positive. In 2014, she was looking for something different.

She had been toying with the idea of her own salon for some time because she wanted more creativity in her craft. Through conversations with suppliers,

it came down to me stepping in and taking on the challenge.

I bought scissors and enrolled in a distance learning hairdressing course. It was a lot of trial and error; blood, sweat and tears!

We had to convince people of our story. Finally, in 2015, we started ‘Haar & Barbier’ in Bruges.

We started with 3 full-timers and 4 chairs. Now we work with a close-knit team of 7 employees with 10 chairs. Annelies was initially in charge of women’s haircuts and profits and I was in charge of men’s haircuts and entertainment! We really grew together immensely and make each other better every day.

I am an energetic person, trying to create an experience for our customers in our salon and barber area.”

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Model: Tom Bielen

What is your speciality?

“I have since found out that cutting men’s hair is really a speciality, it is precision work.

I believe that a haircut should both be an extension and enhancement of someone’s personality. As barbers, it is our job to assess the wishes and personality of a customer and to project those on the haircut using the options we have. I see the customer as a blank canvas, so to speak, that needs someone’s careful attention. We also prioritise the ease of style and durability of the hairstyle. From that mix, I want to make the most perfect match possible every time. Long or short, with clippers or scissors. Personally, I have a particular interest in hair tattoos and afro. These hairstyles are not ordinary and break the rut.”

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Does it help that you are a female barber?

“I’m sure clients come to me because I’m a woman. But it’s also about my personality - I could have also been a bar manager, haha!”

Your biggest challenge?

“The technical side of the business is my biggest challenge, i.e. speaking its language. By changing the hair or beard, you have to see and feel whether the hair is ‘happy’. You can’t actually learn that. You see more than just the hair, so to speak. Because of my passion for this, I have come to understand hair more over the years. I have learned to project that onto the customer.”

Your biggest blunder?

“My biggest blunder was the time I was cutting the hair of a customer after a hairdressing event, with too little sleep.

His ear had to suffer, so much blood! I was using towels but it kept bleeding, it looked like Halloween! My salvation was the pharmacy next door.

The pharmacy assistant rushed over and took care of it. What a relief! I then offered my victim a free treatment and luckily he remained a customer!”

Where do you get your inspiration from?

“I get my inspiration mainly from my own customers in the chair.

They rarely say, ‘just do it like last time’. They know I am open to other ideas. Not everything is feasible but I always use all my creativity. I also find working at a trade fair inspiring and I like to surround myself with colleagues I look up to. I never copy because a copy of a hairdo is only 50% of a good result in my eyes.

Furthermore, I am open to anything that excites me. From the men of Schorem, Vidal Sassoon to local or national hairdressers. I look at both ladies and gentlemen because many techniques for ladies can be applied within the barber profession to achieve different results. Finally, I don’t focus on unfeasible, manipulated digital images, even if it looks very creative. It is important to me that a haircut is easy to style and long-lasting.”

You are an ambassador for several brands. Why? “I have been working with Wahl since the beginning and I loved that they approached me for an ambassadorship of the MOSER brand. They believed that as a Barber Lady, I would be perfect for working with MOSER’s tools, and I am. I am impressed by the passion with which the tools are developed for every aspect of the barber profession. The tools lie well and balanced in my hand and I have a good sense of the capabilities of the tools. It’s just

I am all about men’s haircuts and entertainment! a perfect match! We create content for them on social media and we take care of each other.

We are also ambassadors of the Italian brand Tonsor 1951. With them too, we try out new things and think out of the box. Through these collaborations, you inspire each other. We are now turning our basement into a photo studio to start bringing out collections for MOSER and Tonsor, but also collections that we can send

to trade magazines. All these initiatives are really things that give me energy!”

Future plans?

“We hope to expand Haar & Barbier while maintaining our culture and vision for the company. Either way it has to happen with a good team such as the one we have now. We hope to take the ambassadorships further and improve them

and motivate our people even better in terms of technique and mindset. Together we can achieve much more than alone!”

Do you have any tips?

“Set your goals. Live for your passion and not for what someone else wants. Don’t be manipulated but be inspired by others. Enjoy your craft. As hairdressers, we make better versions of people. Be proud!”

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C O LU M N C H R I S FO ST E R

HOW TO WORK FOR FASHION CAMPAIGNS? The Official Gucci Barber Earlier this year I had the amazing opportunity to be the creator of the Gucci Monogram Buzz Cut; for the Gucci Cruise show 2023 held at the iconic Castle Del Monte Italy. This haircut received such an amazing response within the fashion world. I was totally blown away that Alessandro Michele Gucci Creative Director posted the haircut on his personal Instagram account. The response has been overwhelming with people from all over the world reaching out to me to tell me how much they love the haircut. It is truly an honour to have received such recognition for my work.

As a barber, you know that one of the best ways to get exposure for your work is to land gigs working on fashion campaigns. But how do you go about building a profile that will allow you to work at the top of the fashion industry?

Here are a few tips.

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Up-to-date portfolio First, make sure your portfolio is up-to-date and reflects the type of work you want to be doing. If you’re aiming to work on high-end fashion campaigns, make sure your portfolio reflects that. Include images of any past work you’ve done on fashion shoots, as well as any other relevant experience, such as working with celebrity clients.

Networking Next, start networking with people in the fashion industry.

Attend fashion events, introduce yourself to designers and stylists, and get your name out there.

The more people you know in the industry, the better your chances of landing gigs working on fashion campaigns.

Local modelling agency Working with a local modelling agency can be a great way to get access to high-quality models for your test shoots. By striking up a relationship with the agency, you can ensure that you always have a pool of talented models to choose from. In addition, the agency will likely be familiar with your work and will be able to provide feedback and guidance on how to make the most of your shoot. As a result, working with a modelling agency can help you to produce better results and improve your portfolio.

Test shoot A test shoot is when a group of creatives come together to work for free in order to get images that will help build each other’s portfolios. Though it may seem like working for free goes against the principle of capitalism, test shoots can be mutually beneficial for all parties involved. For example, a fashion designer may need photos of their garments to present to potential clients, but they can’t afford to hire a professional photographer. Meanwhile, a freelance photographer is looking to expand their portfolio and attract new clients. By working together on a test shoot, the fashion designer can get the photos they need, and you can get great work to build your portfolio ready for the fashion industry. Test shoots can be an important part of building a career in the creative industry.

Engagement If you’re looking to build relationships with other creatives, one of the best things you can do is engage with their work. That means liking and commenting on their posts, leaving long comments, asking questions, and making them feel valued.

In return, they’ll be more likely to check out your work and offer feedback. And as you continue to build these relationships, you’ll create a strong network of creatives who can offer support and advice.

Social Media Finally, keep your social media presence professional and polished. Make sure your Instagram feed is full of inspiring images, and that your Twitter account is free of any negative or unprofessional comments.

Remember, potential clients will be looking at your social media accounts before they decide to hire you—so make sure they like what they see!

Creating a portfolio and online presence that will help you land fashion campaigns may seem like a daunting task, but it’s definitely doable. By following the steps we’ve laid out above, you can create a polished and professional profile that will make fashion brands take notice.

So, what are you waiting for?

Start building your dream portfolio today!

For more tips and advice make sure you check out my Instagram account @theprofile.guy TikTok @theprofileguy Chris Foster The Profile Guy

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Q&A CRAIG HENDERSON

Q &A

What made you decide to become a barber?

“I was studying science and math and I was stuck in what to do or where to go. One time I was on the bus on the way home from being in town with my friends and there was a paper with a job section.

There was an advertisement in it for training to become a hairdresser. So, that was what I did. Over 10 years later, I’m still in the industry with my own business with my fantastic fiancée Sarah and I moved over to barbering.”

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Craig Henderson is the proud owner of Craig’s Barbershop in Bolton (UK) which offers barbering services for all lengths, genders and sexualities. He has a focus on working with adults and children with additional needs and wants to raise as much awareness as possible.

He says: “We are a community service, so we need to serve our community and looking after clients from all walks of life. We are all gifted, talented individuals so be that incredible human being you are and make a difference.”

Why would you like to help specifically children and young adults with additional needs?

“I like helping these clients because they are no different to me or you apart from they may have a neurological condition or physical disability. So why can’t we do their hair? We are trained to cut hair, it may be more challenging but it so rewarding to see them smile, their parents / guardians smile, because you achieved the impossible how they feel.”

What does it take to cut them?

“It takes so much patience, understanding and adapting to certain situations as it is not your orthodox way of cutting hair. You need to think outside the box and be ready for what reaction is going to happen next, as they are so unpredictable.”

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@craighenderson_srsb @craigsbarbershopbolton

Does it require any additional schooling?

“I had no additional training, but my son had SPD which is Sensory Processing Disorder. So, this helped me a lot to understand triggers. But not every kid or young adult is the same so you’re constantly learning on the job.”

Is there an amazing story to tell about one of your clients?

“I had one client who had additional needs and he had a fear of literally everything, from combs, scissors just everything. But after 40 minutes, I managed to complete a full haircut without any tears or upset.

He gave me a hug to say thank you and his mum and dad burst into tears and couldn’t thank me enough for what I achieved with their little superhero because with all previous barbers he head butted them, bite them and so much more. But I managed and now he comes back every 3 weeks for a haircut.”

What are your ambitions for the future?

“My ambition is to have a shop that is fully equipped for these kinds of clients including my neuro typical clients. I don’t mean a separate room, the goal is desensitize them to experience.

Not lock them away from the public like a monster. I would like more floor space, for example a disabled toilet with changing station, a sensory wall, a section where I can wheel up wheelchair use etc. There is so much I am dreaming about but one day I have this and I make even more of huge difference to the community.”

Is there anything else you would like to share with our readers?

“In developing some hair industry PECS (Pictures Exchange Communications), I already made a huge start making a difference to the additional needs community especially the non verbal autistic and deaf. These cards help explain the process or give them independence when having a haircut. They are available on my website, and I will ship them world-wide: www.craigsbarbershop.co.uk/pecs-cards.

It so rewarding to see them smile 76

Would you like to be able to help people with additional needs? Check Craig’s tips: 1

Be prepared, people with additional needs aren’t your neurotypical client you have on a daily basis. They can be more challenging, so make sure to allocate enough time, between 45- 60 minutes for an appointment.

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Make sure you have plenty of resources, fidgets, action cards, chalk markers, spare equipment.

For example, I have an old pair of clippers with the blade dulled and same with a pair of scissors to let them feel the equipment and understand it isn’t going to hurt them. The action cards help the nonverbal autistic clients or deaf clients, for example they can express themselves with the cards how they are feeling and the cards explain the process etc.

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Be at their level, they are likely won’t want to be in the chair to start.

It’s about desensitizing them to a normal working hair establishment, so the smell of products, noise and everything that happens in the shop.

This will help later on in life. So to start, if they want it doing in the waiting area or the bench outside or the bus stop, that’s fine. And talk to them at their level and praise them even if you just manage to comb their hair. And do not restrain them in any way as this will cause distress and discomfort.

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Speak to the parents / guardians to understand the previous experiences, any sensory difficulties they may face, their needs and adaptations. Get them to bring a spare change of clothes too as 90% of the time they won’t wear a gown or even a towel, so get baby wipes in stock, lollys, fruit, veg for rewards.

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I nform your colleagues that you have an additional needs appointment in. Communication with your peers is key, as most of the time usually children will wander around the shop and want to touch and look at things and be in other people’s personal space. Also get colleagues to speak to their client to have some respect during this window as especially in barbershops bad language, banter can be normal practice in this man dominating environment. This can offend the parents, and the child.

Remember music in the shop is background noise.

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e patient, nonjudgmental and B importantly be willing to make sacrifices. During a service you may not do anything on the visit, and you can’t expect to charge the parents for your time on this occasion.

But it is a huge WIN if you have them in the shop, that first step conquered.

Maybe next time you just comb their hair, it takes time to work with people with additional needs. It usually takes around 6 visits before you get to achieve a haircut, sometimes you do it on first, second or even third attempt. So even if you cut a small amount of the fringe or the nape on the first visit is a WIN too.

All the small changes can have a huge impact to their life.

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I strongly advise you work on your scissor work, as clippers work can take a lot longer to build up trust.

So be prepared to be able to do a grade two back and sides with scissors if it’s possible, so get practicing.

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Salon International London (UK), October 2022

JJ Savani

Photography: © Salon International

Natalie Cresswell

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Dexter Dapper Johnson, Toni & Guy

Photography: © Salon International

Model Toni & Guy

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Jayson Cuzins, Fella Hair

Salon International London (UK), October 2022

L3VEL3, Carlos Estrella & Jay Nouri

Mic Daniano

Hair Force1

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Sebastien Liolios, winner BaByliss Pro barber battle with his model

Photography: © The Hair Project & Team BarberSociety

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The Hair Project Kortrijk (BE), October 2022

Duncan Laurence

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Photography: © The Hair Project & Team BarberSociety