BarberSociety magazine ENG Fall 2019

BARBERS & FASHION

BE INSPIRED

BY PEAKY BLINDERS

CHRIS FOSTER COLUMN YOUR BRAND IS EVERYTHING

TIPS FOR PRICING DON’T UNDERSELL YOUR SERVICES!

MOUSTACHES MAKE THE DIFFERENCE

MAGNIFICENT MOUSTACHE PHOTOS

INTERVIEW WITH BARBER BABE MARIA

I WAS ONE OF THE FIRST FEMALE BARBERS IN GREECE

© BBC/Caryn Mandabach Productions Ltd/Tiger Aspect/Robert Viglasky

In response to popular demand, we’re delighted to present the very first English edition of BarberSociety magazine. I’m thrilled with this new development. Both our BarberSociety Facebook community, which marked the first step on the journey, and our annual BarberSociety Live in Amsterdam have had international reach for several years now. So we couldn’t let the magazine lag behind and wanted to broaden its reach to an international audience. As a third-generation barber, I wholeheartedly believe this is the best profession in the world. But we’re not there yet: hairdressing colleges don’t devote sufficient attention to barbering and there is room for giving barbering a more prominent profile and positioning.

I think it’s important for our profession to be taken seriously and believe it’s key for us to focus more on improving quality. Exchanging experiences and knowledge with colleagues at home and abroad is a vital element of achieving this objective. That’s what inspired us to launch the BarberSociety Facebook community back in 2013. Our aim: to connect barbers so they could help each other. Being part of a community both makes you a better barber and ensures the continued development of barbering as a craft.

Annual get-together Organising an event that revolves around this great profession was a logical next step. The first edition of BarberSociety Live in 2016 was a dream come true for me. It was amazing to see how everyone came together! That comradery is a distinguishing feature of our profession. No matter where I am in the world, if I walk into a barbershop and tell them I’m a barber too, they immediately feel like family.

And that’s exactly what we achieve through BarberSociety Live: an event that reflects the unique atmosphere of a barbershop. A cool place to get together to gain information, education and inspiration, while enjoying great conversations with colleagues about the business over a couple of beers. Sure we know each other through online channels, but nothing compares to meeting in person. It’s fantastic that BarberSociety Live has emerged as the leading annual get-together for barbers that includes a Barber Battle giving you the chance to further develop your skills. Next year we’ll be celebrating the event’s 5th anniversary. Our aim is to make it the best edition ever. We’re also looking forward to having even more barbers from around the world come to Amsterdam to be part of this unique event!

The magazine

In addition to providing information and inspiration, we also devote attention to everything that makes this craft

so fantastic for us as barbers. This is why we present a good mix of lifestyle and trade-related topics. It’s a magazine you can share with your clients in your barbershop so they too can gain a behind-the-scenes perspective on the extraordinary world of barbering. While my grandfather, who became a barber in 1934, unfortunately isn’t around to experience all of this, I know he would have been incredibly proud! But it’s wonderful that my father, who carried on the tradition of barbering in our family, is able to enjoy seeing the BarberSociety move from success to success.

This edition

This edition includes a Barbers & Fashion special in which we spotlight one of my favourite series: Peaky Blinders. It’s hard to think of another series that has had such a far-reaching impact on fashion as Peaky Blinders. The ‘Peaky cuts & suits’ article in this edition provides a fascinating perspective on the history and making-of the Peaky style.

The background article about pricing in our business addresses a more serious issue. I personally believe that you can justify charging higher prices when you provide excellent quality and service. That’s why I’m appealing to colleagues to resist the temptation to offer cut-rate prices!

You’ve no doubt noticed that moustaches are making a comeback. Be inspired by checking out the great collection of moustache pictures from the World Beard & Moustache Championships. In our ‘All in the family’ column, we speak with Brian Swarray, aka Barber B, who came up with an innovative way to support Movember. The ‘Barber Babe’ section features an interview with Maria Aggeloglou, who is the owner of three Greek barber shops and is one of Greece’s first female barbers.

Wondering where you should go on your next city trip? Milan is the ticket. In our ‘Barbers & the City’ section, we give you

a behind-the-scenes look at some amazing barber shops that exude Italian style. These Italian barbers also share with you their hotspots in this sensational Italian city.

Subscribe to style

We hope you enjoy this first English edition. You can receive each edition in your letterbox by taking out a subscription. Simply visit www.barbersociety.com/ magazine to arrange your subscription.

Many thanks for being part of BarberSociety and have a great autumn season!

WHAT DO YOU THINK?

P.S. Please let us know what you think of this English edition in the Facebook BarberSociety group

(note: not ‘the Barbersociety’, but ‘Barbersociety’). Do you know barbers who aren’t yet members of the private

Marc van de Hare Founder BarberSociety

BarberSociety Facebook group? Be sure to invite them to become members. Because the more members, the more knowledge and the more inspiration and motivation. Go to www.barbersociety.com/community

My grandfather began working as a barber in 1934. While he unfortunately hasn’t been able to experience all of this, I know he would have been incredibly proud!

Actor Cillian Murphy as Thomas Shelby

Productions Ltd/Tiger Aspect/Robert Viglasky

BE YOUR GUIDE LET YOUR STYLE

What matters most is that the barber wears the clothes and not the other way around

INTERVIEW WITH BOUDEWIJN JURRIAANS, AKA BARBER BIRDMAN

Nobody ever thought Boudewijn would become a barber. He comes from a long line of academics who don’t have any connection with the barbering business. But Boudewijn wasn’t interested in going to university. He always loved music and spent ten years working in the hospitality industry until he got the chance to complete a traineeship at Barbershop Cut Throat in Amsterdam. That’s when Boudewijn discovered that this is his calling. He’s now been a barber for five years and opened his own barbershop in Haarlem two years ago. Boudewijn also performs as an International Artist at Redken.

Own barbershop

‘Once I knew for sure that I wanted to pursue a career in barbering, I went to Dublin to attend the school of barbering there. After that I returned to Cut Throat to further hone my technical skills. I was already determined at that time to open my own barbershop, but I first wanted to gain more practical experience. My years of working at bars and restaurants had allowed me to develop my social skills and my experience in the hospitality industry came in very handy in the barbering business. I find it easy to talk with people and clients quickly feel at ease with me. I’d also learned a lot about entrepreneurism from my previous employers. While there were some things I agreed with and other things I didn’t, I utilised that total experience as the basis for my approach to running my own business.’

Meeting expectations

‘I moved from Amsterdam to Haarlem and researched the city’s demographics before opening my shop. I learned that the population of Haarlem at that time was 188,000, with slightly more women than men. While Haarlem is the hairdressing capital of the Netherlands, there weren’t many barber shops in this city back then, which gave me the chance to make a real difference. After that I started thinking about what I’d need to offer in order to get people to switch from their regular stylist to give me a try. You can build a clientele from the ground up by placing yourself in the client’s shoes. But it’s crucial that you’ve got a crystal clear vision of your concept, what you’re worth and what you can do. Once you have that information, you can elaborate a pricing structure that matches the client’s

expectations. Because the higher the rate, the greater the chance people will complain if they have a disappointing experience.’

Dress for success

‘My barber shop is positioned in the upper segment, so we’re obviously committed to the highest quality. We constantly provide training in order to remain up to standard. Clients tell me all the time that our haircuts grow out well. The interior is also very important because it’s the first impression someone gets if they walk past the shop. That’s why I’ve put a great deal of time and effort into the interior. I’ve consciously opted for a classy look and in keeping with

this I’ve also focussed on our clothing. You’ve got to look at which barber is standing behind the chair. He or she could be wearing torn jeans and old sneakers or more stylish clothes. What matters most is that you wear the clothes and not the other way around. I usually wear trousers with a shirt and waistcoat. I have my clothes tailor made by L’Atelier. But my colleague has a very different look. I don’t have a dress code. All I say is that the clothes should match the individual. And, of course, I hire barbers who are a good fit with the shop, also in terms of their clothes.’

Copycats

‘I always applaud everyone who marches to their own drum and does their own thing. But it does sometimes bother me if someone else’s concept is replicated. And, quite frankly, I just don’t get it. I mean you’re starting your own business and you’ve got the unique opportunity to determine the way you want it to be and then you end up using somebody else’s idea. But you unfortunately still see a lot of copycats these days and many of the shops I’ve already seen before. I think barbers decide to copy somebody else because they see it as a safe option. That business owner hopes that something that’s already been successful will also bring him success. It’s also fuelled by the fear that clients won’t come to the barber shop if you dare to introduce a new concept. I think it’s important to let your own style be your guide, rather than following your clients’ expectations as to what a barber shop should be.

I personally made a very conscious decision to follow my own style. The interior is relatively traditional, but with a contemporary twist. The wainscoting, for example, has been painted bright blue and the white tiles have been laid in a herringbone pattern. It’s also important to have a distinctive look and feel because too much uniformity in the streetscape would mean your shop won’t stand out.’

Infancy

‘I think the barber culture in the Netherlands is still more or less in its infancy. The Rotterdambased barbershop Schorem spurred the rise of this culture ten years ago. Back then they created a unique concept and positioned it effectively in the market. As an entrepreneur, you can learn loads from looking at the development of Schorem. The only problem is that this success formula has already been copied many times and you can notice that barbers don’t know exactly what their identity is. They think, ‘At least you know if you copy them it will be successful.’ But it’s actually infinitely more exciting if people dare to do something different.’

Plans for the future

‘I want to focus for now on this barber shop and ensure that it’s rock-solid. I also want to move up at Redken from International Artist to Global Artist so I can demonstrate my barbering skills on major stages worldwide. And while I want to remain the face of the barbershop, I would like to work with someone who can assume responsibility for its overall management. This would give me more time to work on positioning myself in the international arena. Perhaps even under my own brand as a freelance barber.’

I don’t understand why you would copy something when you’ve got the unique opportunity to do your own thing

© José Donatz Fotografie

SPECIAL

WE ARE NOT YOUR FATHER’S TAILOR

INTERVIEW WITH PASCAL UMMELS, L’ATELIER TAILORING

When Pascal Ummels, founder of L’Atelier Tailoring in Amsterdam, is asked how long he’s been in the business, he replies: ‘Too long!’ This witty answer typifies this 29-year old entrepreneur. He approaches everything with humour and this is reflected in his company’s tagline: ‘We are not your father’s tailor’. It’s a concept that appeals to a generation of men who love craftsmanship and bespoke tailoring that is modern and bold. He designs clothes for some well-known Dutch celebrities. His designs are also worn by birdman aka Boudewijn Jurriaans (read the interview with him in this edition).

BarberSociety founder Marc van de Hare also has L’Atelier Tailoring create his bespoke jackets.

Pascal is putting all his ambition and entrepreneurial spirit into making L’Atelier Tailoring an international success. This must ultimately lead to the fulfilment of another dream: opening a restaurant where the sky’s the limit and where he says he can ‘just enjoy a bit of cooking.’ But before that day comes, he aims to open between 25 and 30 stores in the Netherlands and abroad.

Craftsmanship with a twist

Pascal opened L’Atelier tailoring in March 2016 upon finishing his studies at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute (AMFI). He had previously attended hotel management college and that education proved to be very helpful with respect to his concept in which hospitality plays a key role. ‘Just like in a barber shop, providing outstanding service, alongside a high-quality product of course, is of paramount importance to me. It is, after all, the level of service you provide that distinguishes you from the rest and enables you to build a loyal clientele. Providing you offer a high-quality product or service – whether it’s tailoring or barbering or shaving –it ultimately all comes down to having a click with the client. In other words: ensuring the client leaves the shop with a good and positive feeling. During my studies at the AMFI, I had an internship at a tailor in Amsterdam and that’s when I got the idea to do something with this craftsmanship. I first tried to take on a role at wellknown clothing brands. When that wasn’t successful, I wrote a plan immediately after finishing my studies at the AMFI in late October 2015. I wanted to position an accessible concept focussing on craftsmanship and contemporary clients, without any pretentiousness and with a twist. Because that’s where I saw a gap in the clothes sector at that time.’

‘Soon afterwards I found this space on the Singel canal in the heart of Amsterdam and opened L’Atelier in March 2016. Rather than, for example, taking another six-month course abroad, I opted to start this business with my savings and try it for a year. I just did it and gradually picked up a spirit of entrepreneurship along the way. And while I love the business and this specialised craft, I don’t wear a suit or formal jacket every day. The same goes for many other men. Men who can’t identify with established brands in the menswear sector, but who can relate to our concept. Our tagline - ‘We are not your father’s tailor’ – also arose shortly after opening the shop. It’s a tongue-in-cheek reference to the traditional image that surrounds suits. Think of your dad or granddad’s suit and you think of a long and loose-fitting suit. Which is the exact opposite of the kind of suit you want.

It all comes down to having a click with the client

What we do is translate the suit as a formal uniform into a more casual and individual garment. Younger, fresher, hipper and more light-hearted. And because they’re tailor-made, each suit is given a personal touch.’

Coffee

‘When a client visits the shop, we first sit down to chat over a coffee or a beer if he prefers! This is because it’s important

for the client to feel comfortable and at ease from the outset. So he can be himself and feel comfortable telling us what he’s looking for. The same goes for a barber shop. As a barber you also want to know what haircut your client has in mind and want him to be honest about his wishes.’

Working method

‘The first thing we do when a client walks through the door is

perform a quick scan. What kind of shoes and watch is he wearing? How is his grooming, how does he talk and walk? This says a lot about the person and what suits him. That’s the first step in the creative process. I’m sure it’s the same with a barber. We then ask him what kind of suit he’s looking for, what he needs it for and what his budget is. The client has often already done some research and, for example, seen something he fancies on Pinterest. Once we’re on the same page with the client, we can transform this idea into the physical product he is envisioning. We then discuss fabrics and all the other aspects relating to a suit such as the lining, design, lapel, buttonholes, etc. At L’Atelier Tailoring you can compose your suit entirely according to your wishes. The final step entails taking the client’s measurements, which is critically important. It’s important with suits for barbers that you have enough room to move. A perfect fit and excellent fabric are key aspects of a tailor-made suit. They provide the added value; otherwise you’d buy a ready-towear suit for half the price. You can have us design a jacket or suit starting at € 350 or € 500 respectively. The average price for a jacket is around € 600 and a suit averages € 800 to € 900.

Boudewijn

Jurriaans

The difference in price lies entirely in the type of fabric you choose. A tailor-made suit isn’t an impulse purchase considering that it takes between 3 to 5 weeks for it to be made. The client then comes back one more time for a final fitting and it can still be altered at this point to make it tighter, shorter or longer.’

Inspiration & trends

‘We have a signature taste and flair within our company. Each season we have samples

made that reflect our vision. We photograph them and display the samples in the shop. We draw inspiration from the fabric samples that are sent to us by our fabric suppliers, who are mainly based in Italy, and the studios we work with. These fabric samples mirror current trends. We’re also inspired by series such as Peaky Blinders. We have clients who specifically ask for a dandy, Peaky style. A 1920’s style, a little oversized, a suave look with a bit more depth. Peaky Blinders in a 21st century jacket if you will. In terms of trends, forest green stands out as a colour this autumn, along with burgundy, grey, beige and brown. We also see trends including plaids, doublebreasted, round collars and high-waisted trousers. Pleats are also making a comeback and braces are likewise taking centre stage. The favourite style of many barbers corresponds with the Peaky Blinders feeling: laidback, relaxed, cool. They are fashion conscious, like beautiful things and have a unique vision. Our ambassador Boudewijn Jurriaans also has suits featuring this style. But there are obviously many other styles as well. We demonstrate our diversity

through other ambassadors too. That’s the great thing about this business; you get to meet so many different and interesting people!’

What does the future hold?

‘We recently opened a second shop in Den Bosch, which is an historical city in the south of the Netherlands. Opening local shops responds to the need to enjoy the convenience of having an L’Atelier nearby. We also want to spread our wings internationally and are planning to open locations in cities such as Dusseldorf and Antwerp. That’s where the men live who we want to serve. We want to work towards having 25 to 30 shops within 5 to 8 years. And once I’ve achieved that goal, I’ll sell the company and open a restaurant where I can cook to my heart’s content. Because that’s my other passion!’

L'Atelier Amsterdam

Singel 105 (+31 (0)20 777 42 54) The Netherlands

L’Atelier ’s-Hertogenbosch

Snellestraat 36 (+31 (0)73 737 0158) The Netherlands More information

FASHION LOVING BARBERS

Duncan Bailey, Schorem

Haarsnijder & Barbier (NL)

@the_brylcreem_man

©Jelle Mollema Fotografie

FASHION LOVING BARBERS

Robert-Jan Rietveld aka Bertus Barbier, Schorem

Haarsnijder & Barbier (NL)

@the_bloody_butcher @schorembarbier

©Jelle Mollema Fotografie

Gio (the New Kid), Gio’s Chop Shop (NL) @giothenewkidofficial, ©José Donatz Fotografie

(USA) @iamtyrikjackson

Tyrik Jackson, Sharper Image barber shops

FASHION LOVING BARBERS

Nero de Boer, Nero Barbershop Men Only (NL) @nerobarbershop

Leah Hayden Cassidy, Hayden Cassidy Hair (IR)

@hayden_cassidy

Ruben Djirlauw, Cut Throat Amsterdam (NL) @barber_djirlauw

FASHION LOVING BARBERS

Stefaan Dekeyser, Hairateljee Dekeyser (BE) hairateljeedekeyser.be

Albert van Lingen, Gio’s Chop Shop (NL) @albertotheyoungbarber, ©José Donatz Fotografie

Fresh Prince, Hair Kingdom (DE)

@freshprince.thebarber

©José Donatz Fotografie

CUTS SUITS

PEAKY BLINDERS

It’s hard to think of another series that has had such an impact on fashion as Peaky Blinders! Countless guys now specifically ask for a ‘Peaky cut’ – the distinctive and stylish ‘Shelby family’ look. The look has now become a prominent part of the streetscape. Peaky Blinders is a massive hit. Its popularity isn’t just down to the superb acting of the cast, including leading man Cillian Murphy, and the exciting story line; it’s also thanks to the Shelby family’s distinctive fashion sense. Masculine, classy, elegant and edgy. The gypsy family from Birmingham that took control of the English gangster world in the early 20th century has in the 21st century triggered the biggest new men’s hair trend in recent times through its signature short cropped haircuts. It’s a distinction that’s often reserved for footballers. The series has been aired on BBC since 2013 and gained global popularity when series 1 through 4 became available on Netflix in 2017. Season five is currently airing on BBC One on Sunday nights at 9:00 p.m. (until late September) and will then be available on Netflix from 4 October.

©BBC/Caryn Mandabach Productions/ Tiger Aspect Productions/Matt Squire Hunger Games actor Sam Claflin joins the cast of Peaky Blinders season 5

The ‘Peaky cut’

Loz Schiavo, the hair and makeup designer for Peaky Blinders, says (source: BBC): ‘The director of the first series wanted something unconventional and unique and that’s why I came up with the following idea. Show only a shaved head under the Peaky cap so you don’t see until the guys take off their caps that they each have their own particular haircut that matches their personality. So when they’ve got their caps on, it’s very difficult for witnesses to identify a gangster if he got caught in the act. It’s amazing how popular the haircut has become. When we started making the series, it took us about a week to convince the cast to chop off their hair for the now iconic, period-style haircut. It’s strange, when I first did this, the boys wanted to wear hats to hide it, but now they don’t need to as everyone is wearing it. One of the main points of reference for the look came from the book Crooks Like Us by Peter Doyle: a compilation of portraits of criminals by the Sydney police from the 1920s. It’s a legendary collection of mugshots of crooks photographed in their suits holding up signs bearing their names. But the style is also partly inspired by military haircuts and gangster haircuts with nods to earlier historical eras. During the poverty-stricken post-war era in which the “Peaky world” is set, many men had to shave their heads because of lice. There wasn’t anything hip about it back then.’

Cillian Murphy, who plays the leading role of Thomas Shelby in the series, doesn’t actually understand why the Peak haircut is so popular. In fact, he’s not a fan of the style at all. He told Shortlist in an interview: ‘But people like the undercut thing; people go to the barber and ask for a ‘Peaky cut’. It’s crazy that people like it, it’s not grown on me in four years now. I normally keep my hair long. But do they

realise it was styled this way to prevent lice? Tell ’em they’ve got the lice cut, see what they say then.’ Loz: ‘Undercuts and various fades were already popular at barber shops prior to the series. The harshly shaved backs and sides accentuate the shape of your face and the major contrast with the style on top is a guaranteed eye-catcher. There are still plenty of fans of the “Peaky cut”, which is essentially a disconnected undercut without a fade.’

©BBC/Caryn Mandabach Productions Ltd/ Tiger Aspect/Robert Viglasky

The function of the haircut was to prevent lice

Duel

Lots of barbers and their clients are also fans of this iconic series. This gave Robert Grosvenor, the award-winning barber from the UK and owner of Headmasters in Birmingham, the idea to create a collection inspired by Peaky Blinders. It’s called Duel and was photographed by Andrew Kruzek. He explains: ‘I feel Peaky Blinders really has had a major impact on male grooming fashion. My reasons for doing this shoot was I wanted to capture how modern day barbering is heavily influenced by the 1920’s. I tried to capture this by the style of clothing I created. My theme was the 1920 gangster image. The haircuts and styles I chose were very modern-day but with a sharp, polished and chiselled finish like it was back in the 1920’s. The shoot took place in Birmingham in the West Midlands. I'm a Birmingham boy and Peaky Blinders was based in Birmingham, so I thought it was a fantastic place to shoot.’

©BBC/Caryn Mandabach Productions Ltd/ Tiger Aspect/Robert Viglasky

ROBERT GROSVENOR

Collection: Duel Hair: Robert Grosvenor

Photography: Andrew Kruzek

Products: Reuzel, Milk Shake

@robertgrosvenor3

Collection: Duel Hair: Robert Grosvenor

Photography: Andrew Kruzek

Products: Reuzel, Milk Shake

@robertgrosvenor3

Collection: Duel Hair: Robert Grosvenor

Photography: Andrew Kruzek

Products: Reuzel, Milk Shake

@robertgrosvenor3

STRONG SUIT!

INTERVIEW WITH MARCUS VAN BEEK, SHELBY BROTHERS

Have you ever dreamt of standing in the shoes of Thomas Shelby and his cronies? You can turn the dream into reality! Shelby Brothers has developed a cool collection inspired by Peaky Blinders that includes stylish suits, boots, caps, jackets, ties and bags. Founders Marcus van Beek and Patrick Kroezen are die-hard fans of the series and are even in close contact with one of the extras from the series. They launched a collection of bags inspired by Peaky Blinders back in December 2014 and have expanded it since then. The collection has been photographed in the Peaky style and two of the models are barbers.

Suit & Bag Tommy (l) and Alfie (r)

Quality is key

Marcus: ‘We don’t have to tell you that Peaky Blinders is one of the most brilliant series to have been made in recent decades. It’s not just a cult thing; it’s taken the world by storm. We view the series as the “Godfather” of this generation. We are, in any case, big fans here at Shelby Brothers, in large part thanks to the stylish yet edgy look of the Blinders’ 1920’s outfits. Inspired by the ultra-cool Shelby bothers, we developed this collection in collaboration with a number of partners. In addition to the cool

bags, the collection features amazing shoes from Blackstone, handmade suits made of real British tweed, dashing bow ties and, of course, the characteristic flat caps with a razor in the peak. So the collection offers everything you need to immerse yourself in the style of Thomas, Arthur, John and Alfie. You can also select one of the stylish 1920’s items to add a Peaky touch to your own outfit. We put quality first and this is why we use only the very best materials for our products inspired by Peaky Blinders. We even succeeded in

convincing the famous British luxury wool manufacturer Moon, which is known for the impeccable quality of its tweed, to delve into their archives to find samples from the 1920s and weave exactly the same tweeds for use in our products. This reflects our firm belief: It’s all in the details. So we’re not talking about junk like plastic keyrings and tacky lighters with a daft logo, but first-class clothes and accessories that stand out in terms of their quality. Stylish items that you can enjoy for many years to come.’

The series Peaky Blinders is set in Birmingham in the years following World War I. This large city in the midlands of England was very deprived after the war. During this period gangs battled it out for control

of the city. One of these gangs is Peaky Blinders. Great news: It’s been announced that there will be a season 6 and there are even plans to make a Peaky Blinders movie. Steven Knight, the creator and writer of Peaky

Blinders, explains: ‘My ambition is to make it a story of a family between the two world wars; I’ve always wanted to end the series with the first air raid siren in Birmingham in 1939.’

Watch it on BBC One on Sunday Nights at 9:00 p.m. through the end of September. Available on Netflix from 4 October.

Three-piece tweed

The three-piece tweed suits in the Shelby Brothers collection are available in three styles and price categories:

1 Ready-to-wear, choice of five suits (price: € 200)

2 Made-to-Measure, choice of approximately 19 suits (price: € 249.95)

3 Tailor Made, choice of one suit available in four colours (price: € 998)

‘The difference between Madeto-Measure and Tailor Made is that with Made-to-Measure you fill in an extensive size list online

on the basis of which the suit will be made exclusively according to your body and sizes. With Tailor Made, a tailor will visit you to take your measurements, fit the suit and ultimately provide a completely bespoke suit. The suits are made in England according to the highest British standards. By working with the right designers and partners, we can offer handmade tweed suits at very attractive prices. While the top-selling colours are always grey and blue, we also see brown gaining popularity. Hunters green Tailor Made suits are also popular, especially as wedding day suits.’

The 3 variations in a row: From left to right: Ready-to-wear, model Bjorn Tailor Made, model Marcus Made-to-Measure, model barber Max

We’re fans of the stylish yet edgy look of 1920’s outfits

Mugshot

‘Like the stylists of Peaky Blinders, we’ve also drawn inspiration from the photos in the Crooks Like Us book and have photographed our Made-toMeasure collection in the style of the Australian mugshots. The mugshots have a bad-guy look that we’ve tried to imitate. Look-a-likes of the characters in the series are all featured in our Urban Boxx ‘Guilty’ photo series. A striking detail is that two of the models are barbers. Kurt Sonnemans, owner of Barbier Kurt in Zundert, the Netherlands and Barber Max, who works at ‘de Meesterbarbier’ in Tilburg in the south of Holland, is the Arthur look-a-like. Bjorn, who came in second in the 30 cm minimum beard category at the World Beard & Moustache Championships 2019, modelled for the Alfie look-a-like. Our photographs bear such a clear resemblance to the atmosphere and actors

of Peaky Blinders that they caught the eye of one of the extras from the Peaky Blinders series. We made contact via Instagram with Geoff Holland who plays one of the prominent gang members in season 4. He invited us to take a Peaky Blinders tour of the film locations in Birmingham and Liverpool.

It was an amazing experience to go on this “pilgrimage” with him. So you can tell that we’re just as passionate about the Peaky Blinders series as we are about our collection.’

The Peaky Blinders items can be ordered at: www.shelbybrothers.com

From left to right: founders Patrick Kroezen and Marcus van Beek with actor Geoff Holland

Barber Kurt, Ready-to-Wear

Barber Max, Made-to-Measure

Barber Max is the Arthur look-a-like

1 Arthur suit brown 3-piece tweed suit, Made-to-Measure € 249.95

2 Leather bow tie Arthur cognac € 19.95

3 Shelby cap deluxe Old-Brown € 49.95

4 Black Overcoat (100% wool) € 199.95

5 Round-neck penny-collar shirt € 49.95

6 Peaky boots Arthur (by Blackstone©) € 279.95

7 Arthur laptop bag (tweed and leather) € 159.95

8 Shelby cigarette box € 29.95

9 Peaky bracelet brown (by Josh©) € 49.95

10 Shelby vintage pocket watch € 29.95

11 Shelby chain wallet € 49.95

Razor-shaped cufflinks € 34.95

13 Vintage braces black (by Hendrik©) € 14.95

WIN A PEAKY BLINDER CAP

What’s a Peaky Blinder without his flat cap? You could say this iconic cap is the star of Peaky Blinders. Even though they’ve amassed great wealth, the Blinders stick to their working-class tweed caps. This is because they not only serve to protect their stunning undercuts against the English weather –they also turn them into the perfect weapon by stitching razors into the peaks of the caps.

Want to try your luck at winning a Peaky Blinders-inspired cap with a razor in the peak worth € 49.95?

Just email us and tell us why you’d like to win this Shelby Brothers cap. Send your email to info@barbersociety.com by 1 November 2019 and be sure to include your name and address. Three winners will be selected from the submissions and they will receive Peaky Blinders caps.

This promotion has been made possible by Shelby Brothers. More information: www.shelbybrothers.com

Collection: THE RANCH

Hair: Aimee Mcpherson (UK)

Photography: Marie Harkness @harknessphotography

Models: Morgan Crallan & Ellis & Dan @savalasmodels

Wardrobe: Richard Murr @howayinn

Studio: @hiddenheightsstudio @blunt.am

Collection: THE RANCH Hair: Aimee Mcpherson (UK)

Photography: Marie Harkness @harknessphotography

Models: Morgan Crallan & Ellis & Dan @savalasmodels

Wardrobe: Richard Murr @howayinn

Studio: @hiddenheightsstudio @blunt.am UNITED

MCPHERSON AIMEE

Collection: THE RANCH

Hair: Aimee Mcpherson (UK)

Photography: Marie Harkness @harknessphotography

Models: Morgan Crallan & Ellis & Dan @savalasmodels

Wardrobe: Richard Murr @howayinn

Studio: @hiddenheightsstudio @blunt.am

UNITED KINGDOM

BALDY

Hair: Baldy (UK)

Photography: Liam Oakes @liamoakesphoto @baldysbarbers

KATABALOEBOENG ROMANO

THE NETHERLANDS

Katabaloeboeng, Barber Ro (NL)

Hair: Romano

Photography: Benny van Ravenhorst

MUA: Danielle Voormeeren / Linda van Ark @romanocut, @barber.ro

MCKAY CANDICE

Collection: The Factory Hair: Candice McKay (SA)

Photography: John Rawson

MUA: Maddie Austin

Styling: Jamie Russell

Products: Davines

@candicemckay_

Collection: The Factory Hair: Candice McKay (SA)

Photography: John Rawson

MUA: Maddie Austin

Styling: Jamie Russell

Products: Davines @candicemckay_

MCKAY CANDICE

Collection: The Factory Hair: Candice McKay (SA)

Photography: John Rawson

MUA: Maddie Austin

Styling: Jamie Russell Products: Davines @candicemckay_

Collection: The Factory

Hair: Candice McKay (SA)

Photography: John Rawson

MUA: Maddie Austin

Styling: Jamie Russell

Products: Davines

@candicemckay_

ALEX AZURMENDI

Collection:Chained

Hair: Alex Azurmendi, Centro Beta (ES)

Hair Assistant: Laura Irure

Photography: David Arnal Photographer @davidarnalteam

Retouch: Javier Villalabeitia @javiervillalabeitia

MUA: Wildvandijk @wildvandijk

Stylist: Visori Fashionart @visorifashionartstudio

Products: Montibello @montibello_peluqueria

Collection: #MYTREASURE

Hair: Hairkrone (ES) Photography: David Arnal @davidarnalteam

MUA: Hairkrone

Stylist: Visori FashionArt @visorifashionartstudio @hairkrone

HAIRKRONE

(ES)

MAKEOVER

Collection: Okubo

Hair: Makeover, @josemakeover @eva_makeover_

Photography: David Arnal @davidarnalteam

MUA: Wild Van Dijk @wildvandijk

Stylist: Aaron Gil @aaron_gil_stylist

Models: Jose Luis Cubell @joselucubel, Carlos @garrigolazo, Guillermo @guillermo_gas & Jaime @jaimeferrandis

Products: Schwarzkopf Professional @makeoverlogrono

Collection: Okubo

Hair: Makeover, @josemakeover @eva_makeover_ (ES)

Photography: David Arnal @davidarnalteam

MUA: Wild Van Dijk @wildvandijk

Stylist: Aaron Gil @aaron_gil_stylist

Models: Jose Luis Cubell @joselucubel, Carlos @garrigolazo, Guillermo @guillermo_gas & Jaime @jaimeferrandis

Products: Schwarzkopf Professional @makeoverlogrono

JOSE GARCIA

Hair: Jose Garcia @ Jose Garcia Peluqueros

Photography: David Arnal

MUA: Isabel García

Stylist: Aaron Gil

Models: Déjàvu Models

Products: Schwarzkopf Professional @josegarciapeluqueros

Hair: Jose Garcia @ Jose Garcia Peluqueros

Photography: David Arnal

MUA: Isabel García

Stylist: Aaron Gil

Models: Déjàvu Models

Products: Schwarzkopf Professional

@josegarciapeluqueros

JOSE GARCIA

Hair: Jose Garcia @ Jose Garcia Peluqueros

Photography: David Arnal

MUA: Isabel García

Stylist: Aaron Gil Models: Déjàvu Models

Products: Schwarzkopf Professional

@josegarciapeluqueros

@ Jose Garcia Peluqueros

Hair: Jose Garcia

Photography: David Arnal

MUA: Isabel García

Stylist: Aaron Gil

Models: Déjàvu Models

Products: Schwarzkopf Professional

@josegarciapeluqueros

JORDI PÉREZ

Collection: Squad

Hair: Jordi Pérez, La Barberia de Gràcia (ES)

Photography: Sergi Jasanada

MUA: La Barberia de Gràcia

Stylist: Angel Cabezuelo @angelcabezuelo77 @labarberia

Collection: Squad Hair: Jordi Pérez, La Barberia de Gràcia (ES)

Photography: Sergi Jasanada

MUA: La Barberia de Gràcia

Stylist: Angel Cabezuelo @angelcabezuelo77 @labarberia

SPAIN BERNAT SAYOL

Collection: Strong

Hair: Bernat Sayol, Salones Carlos Valiente (ES)

Photography: Esteban Roca @esteban_roca_photo

MUA: Nacho Sanz @nachosanz_makeup

Stylist: Salones CV @saloncarlosvaliente @beeernat @saloncarlosvaliente

Collection: Strong Hair: Bernat Sayol, Salones Carlos Valiente (ES)

Photography: Esteban Roca @esteban_roca_photo

MUA: Nacho Sanz @nachosanz_makeup

Stylist: Salones CV @saloncarlosvaliente @beeernat @saloncarlosvaliente

Collection: Strong Hair: Bernat Sayol, Salones Carlos Valiente (ES)

Photography: Esteban Roca @esteban_roca_photo

MUA: Nacho Sanz @nachosanz_makeup

Stylist: Salones CV @saloncarlosvaliente @beeernat @saloncarlosvaliente

XARO FERRI SANCHÍS

Collection: Two4Velvet

Hair: Xaro Ferri Sanchís, Xaro Ferri Estilistas (ES)

Photography: Juanjo Martín @graficament

MUA: Cristina Martínez

Stylist: Xaro Ferri Estilistas

@xaroferriestilista

Collection: Two4Velvet

Hair: Xaro Ferri Sanchís, Xaro Ferri Estilistas (ES)

Photography: Juanjo Martín @graficament

MUA: Cristina Martínez

Stylist: Xaro Ferri Estilistas @xaroferriestilista

XARO FERRI SANCHÍS

Collection: Two4Velvet

Hair: Xaro Ferri Sanchís, Xaro Ferri Estilistas (ES)

Photography: Juanjo Martín @graficament

MUA: Cristina Martínez

Stylist: Xaro Ferri Estilistas @xaroferriestilista

Collection: Two4Velvet

Hair: Xaro Ferri Sanchís, Xaro Ferri Estilistas (ES)

Photography: Juanjo Martín @graficament

MUA: Cristina Martínez

Stylist: Xaro Ferri Estilistas @xaroferriestilista

SAM WALL

Collection: Conflict

Hair: Sam Wall (UK)

Photography: Marie Harkness

MUA: Lawson Wright

Models: Tyne Tees Model Agency

Location: Hidden Heights Creative Studio

mrsamwall.co.uk, @mrsamwall

THE NETHERLANDS

YVONNE KOK

Collection: MFPS

Hair: Yvonne Kok, barbershop Mr. Handsome (NL)

Photography: Richard Monsieurs

Styling: Jantine v. Luttikhuizen @barbershop.mr.handsome

WAHL

Fade by Anthony Galifot (FR) for Wahl

Hair: Rebel Crop

Photography: Wahl Products: Wahl 5 Star Series: Cordless Senior, Detailer, Balding Clipper, Hero and the finishing tool

wahlglobal.com/the-netherlands

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HOW CAN I DETERMINE THE RIGHT PRICE FOR MY SERVICES?

How should I determine my rates? It’s a question many barbers struggle with. After all, you’ve got to cover your expenses and don’t want to undersell your services. But you equally don’t want to price yourself out of the market. You can obviously look at what the competition is charging, but basing your prices on the competition’s price structure is risky business. Because how do you know what your competitor’s cost base is and whether or not they charge realistic prices? In order to determine an appropriate price, you’re better off basing your prices on your own operations and taking note of factors that are specific to your business. It is, first of all, important to determine the cost price of your service. This depends on your cost base and the amount of time you spend on each client. Your rent or mortgage payments will naturally be a major

Text: Marit Heemskerk

© Clay Banks

expense and the related amount will depend in large part on your location. In addition, you have to closely analyse your target group. The information you gain from this analysis will largely determine the extras you offer and the time you allocate for each barbering session with a client. It ultimately all comes down to charging prices that your clients are prepared to pay, which cover the costs and enable you to generate enough profit.

Cost price calculation

You must first and foremost charge a price that fully covers your expenses. This is why it is important to make a detailed

Determine the cost price for each service

1 The first step entails determining your operating costs. Ask your bookkeeper or accountant to provide you with an annual financial statements report and a profit and loss account and increase your operating costs with the official inflation rate each year.

2 Determine your income from the enterprise each year. How much income will you generate?

3 Add up the costs from steps 1 and 2 to ascertain your total expenses.

4 Calculate the number of productive minutes per employee (including you) per year.

5 Divide the total costs by the number of productive minutes. This is the cost price. Add VAT to this amount and increase by a small percentage to cover unforeseen expenses.

6 The final step entails determining the number of minutes you need per session with the client and then multiplying this by the cost price per minute. This reveals the amount a service actually costs.

overview of your costs and expenses. Because only then will you be able to determine a realistic price for your services.

Once you’ve ascertained the cost price per service, you can then determine the price you should charge your clients. You can also consider introducing price differentiation whereby a higher price is charged for a senior barber than for a junior barber.

Startups

It’s particularly difficult for barber shops in the start-up phase because there are still too many uncertain factors that

You first have to determine the amount of your actual costs before you can determine an appropriate price

© Joshua Rodriguez

must be taken into account. As a start-up entrepreneur you often can’t charge the same prices as well-established barber shops. Deciding what you want to earn is an important first step. This lets you set a goal for yourself and you can then ascertain whether this is feasible. You’ve probably already drawn up a business plan and you can use it as the basis for estimating your expected expenditure. Be sure to also allow for the start-up expenses you will have to incur. If you find it difficult to make these calculations, you can always ask your bookkeeper or accountant to help you. A different method entails calculating an hourly rate and then determining how much time you spend on each session with a client. Because time is money and your working hours must also be paid. Also be sure to take leave days and holidays into account when making this calculation. And last but not least, you can always look at the prices your competitors are charging to see how your prices compare to their prices. You can also speak with colleagues in another city who run a similar barbershop.

Don’t start with cut-rate prices

Many barber shop owners are afraid to ask too much for their services, but it’s also important to realise that overly low prices can also scare off potential clients. This is because something that’s cheap is often perceived as less valuable and the client could treat you accordingly. You’re better off asking a higher price and providing an exceptional experience with a range of extras. This both allows you to attract a different kind of clientele and ensure a much more manageable workload in the shop. You have more time for your clients and at the end of the month you will have sufficient funds to keep your business up and running.

© Andi Whiskey

OWNERS SHARE TWO BARBER SHOP THEIR EXPERIENCES

Boudewijn (AmsterdamJurriaans Dandy, Haarlem, the Netherlands)

‘It is hard to determine what your services are worth. But it actually just comes down to a mathematical sum. If you know the amount of your rent and fixed expenses and what amount you want to have left over at the end of the month, you can then calculate how much time you will allocate for each client and at what rate. Say you give 200 clients a month a haircut, you divide the amount you want to earn by 200. You then obviously look at how your prices compare to those of other barber shops in your area. I’m the most expensive barber shop in Haarlem, but I do offer lot of extras for the added price. So you have to look at the category in which your barber shop is operating and assess whether you can deliver a service to justify the price. If people

Cay Kleeven (Barber Cay Kleeven, Horst, the Netherlands)

‘The most important thing when considering whether to start your own business is to determine if you will be able to pay your pension and industrial disability insurance. If you can’t, then it’s better to continue working for an employer where everything is arranged for you. You also must determine which target group you want to serve. In the upper segment, you’ll need to offer extras and spend longer with each client. A key aspect relating to your selection of your chosen target group is how many clients you want to cut a day. If you

ask €15 per haircut, you’ll need to have four clients an hour. In contrast, in the upper segment you will serve fewer clients a day. I’m not a big believer in looking at the competition in your area to determine your prices; you’re better off setting your prices yourself. How do you want to work and what makes you happy? Because if you, for example, want to open a barber shop in the upper segment and there are already a number of them in the area, you should ask yourself whether it’s wise to start another barber shop

think €40 is expensive for half an hour, I tell them that you shouldn’t just look at the 30 minutes, but also at the many years of training I have undertaken in order to be able to offer this added-value service in that half hour. People know how much they can spend and, providing you can give them an outstanding experience for that amount, they will absolutely keep coming back.’

in the direct vicinity. Because once you’ve determined how you want to work, you should never adapt your concept to the location.’

Original formulas for the beauty of men.

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Marc van de Hare regularly travels to other cities to gain inspiration. He recently visited several barber shops in Milan. We asked these Italian barbers to share their favourite hotspots that aren’t to be missed when you’re in Milan. And also be sure to drop by these Italian barber shops that embody La Dolce Vita!

ANTICA BARBIERIA COLLA

Via G. Morone 3

20121 Milan

+39 334 8099417

www.anticabarbieria

collashop.com/en/

Antica Barbieria Colla isn’t a barber shop, it’s a time-honoured institution. Antica Barbieria Colla, which is currently owned by Franco Bompieri, was established in 1904 and is Milan’s oldest and most famous barber shop. It is steeped in history and radiates the glory of a by-gone era. The walls of this elegant shop are covered with photographs of the countless celebrities who have come through its doors. Impeccable service is clearly at the heart of everything they do here. The barbers operate in a state of extreme concentration to carry out their craft in keeping with a longstanding tradition of excellence in barbering.

There’s no music and no noise, the only sound you can hear is that of scissors working their magic. It’s a haven of serenity that provides a marvellous time-out from the chaos of the city. Antica Barbieria Colla also offers an exclusive range of luxury men’s grooming products including shaving soap, after shave, cologne, beard oil and hair care products. Franco’s daughter has now taken over the helm as the establishment’s manager. She explains: ‘We hope our clients see as us as special thanks to our working method that is based on respecting our tradition and having an open perspective vis-a-vis the future and the world of today.’

OUR HOTSPOTS

Osteria dell' Acquabella

Via San Rocco n° 11 20135 Milan

+39 02 58309653

www.acquabella.it

A wonderfully laidback eatery in the Porta Romanda District where you can relish local specialities in a classic Lombardy ambience. The menu features a selection of the finest traditional cuisine the region has to offer – classic and delicious.

Trattoria Del Pescato

Via Atto Vannucci 5, Milan

+39 02 58320452

www.trattoriadelpescatore.it

Trattoria Del Pescato is the place to be for superb seafood. It’s been serving up delicious fish dishes according to the timehonoured Italian tradition for 40 years. The quality of the cuisine is out of this world!

Terrazza Martini

Piazza Armando Diaz 7

20123 Milan

+39 011 941 98 31

www.martini.com/ terrazza-martini-milano/

Terrazza Martini is the perfect setting for marvelling at Milan in all its beauty. Situated on the top floor of Piazza Diaz in Milan’s city century, it affords breathtaking views of the Duomo and the entire city of Milan.

DEPOT men’s concept store

Piazza Monte Grappa 12

21100 Varese

+39 0332 775822

www.depotmensconceptstore.com

www.depotmaletools.com/en/

DEPOT men’s concept store that houses Mr. Fox Barber is located in Varese just outside of Milan. This concept store opened in November 2018 and is absolutely worth visiting! The DEPOT men’s concept store features everything modern men want including exclusive treatments in the barber shop, the DEPOT® range of hair care and shaving products and accessories, clothes, bags, shoes and jewellery. The store showcases a selection of top brands and all the products are made in Italy. It’s a vibrant hotspot for everyone who loves luxury lifestyle and male grooming products. The spacious store,

with the barber shop in the basement, features a modern design with classic details and a vintage appeal. Mr. Fox Barber has been designed to be an oasis of tranquillity where gentlemen can enjoy traditional shaving and barbering rituals using ultramodern products. The service provided in the classic modern barber shop is both exclusive and attentive. The concept store is the brainchild of Ivano Panzeri, who is also the founder of the DEPOT® male tools brand that offers stylish hair care products for the contemporary man.

OUR HOTSPOTS

La Perla Ristorante via Carrobbio 19

21100 Varese

+39 0332 231183

www.perlaristorante.it

La Perla is one of the best seafood restaurants in the centre of Varese. It’s a family restaurant boasting great wines and a laidback and convivial ambience.

Caffè Broletto s.r.l.

Via Carlo Giuseppe Veratti 4 21100 Varese

+39 346 0159397

www.caffebroletto.it

Il Broletto is the go-to place for great drinks. It’s one of the best aperitivo bars in Varese with a superb location!

Gelateria Romana

Via Alessandro Volta 6 21100 Varese

+39 0332 285653

www.gelateriaromana.com

If you like ice cream, you will love La Romana. The dark chocolate flavour is to die for!

Francesco Cirignotta – Barber “Snob”

Viale Gabriele D'Annunzio 25

20123 Milan

+39 02 835 7406

www.cirignotta.net

This is an awe-inspiring, high-end barber shop in a sophisticated setting! There aren’t enough superlatives to describe this pinnacle of barbering. The barber shop boasts a sublime design and exudes elegance. The owner, Francesco Cirignotta, is a professional through and through. With 30 years’ of barbering experience under his belt, through this barber shop he has elaborated a concept that ensures his clients enjoy a true barbering experience that focuses on relaxation and wellness. He has consciously opted to place only one chair in the shop so that he can give each client his undivided

attention and impeccable service. He is an artist with his hands and also a knowledgeable man who is a pleasure to converse with.

HIS HOTSPOTS

L’Arabesque & L’arabesque pour homme

Largo Augusto 10 20122 Milan

+39 02 7601 4825

www.larabesque.net

L’Arabesque is a cult store and café located close to the Duomo. It invites you to take a design journey through the 1950s and 1960s. You’ll find vintage clothes, a gallery, furniture, home accessories, exclusive fragrances and a library with a wide selection of unique design books. You can also enjoy refined Italian cuisine in the café and restaurant.

Bottiglieria Trattoria da Pino

Via Cerva 14

20122 Milan

+39 02 7600 0532

For a great lunch, drop by this trattoria near via Montenapoleone in the heart of Milan. Fast service, great food and reasonable prices!

Al Garghet

Via Selvanesco 36

20141 Milano

+39 02 534698

www.algarghet.it

This exceptional restaurant is surrounded by a luscious garden. Enjoy quintessentially Italian dishes with Lombardy influences. Be sure to try the risotto alla Milanese! Bellissimo!

Bullfrog Modern Electric Barber

Via Dante 4 20121 Milan

+39 06 92082714

www.bullfrogbarbershop.com

There is a great chain of barber shops in Italy called: Bullfrog barbershop. Inspired by a trip to New York, founder Romano Brida decided to bring the concept of American barber shops to Italy. He opened his first barber shop in Milan’s popular workingclass district Isola in 2013. In doing so he fused the Italian art of shaving and the distinctive vibe of authentic American barber shops. It’s a place where men can have treatments in a relaxed ambience. Romano identified a need for high-quality beard products and this led him to develop the iconic and multifunctional beard balm ‘Agnostico’, which was the first Bullfrog product.

The concept has evolved through the years in collaboration with a partner. The employees are trained at the Bullfrog Academy and all the Bullfrog barber shops radiate Italian class with authentic, functional, fast and high-quality service being the top priority. Bullfrog furthermore offers a range of fantastic care and lifestyle products, including accessories, ranging from beard balsams to brushes and exceptional fragrances. There are now 14 locations, including shops in Zurich and Munich. The Munich shop gained the number 1 position of the 2019 Playboy rankings of German barber shops.

These Italian barber shops will naturally also be shown in 360-degree virtual tours on the website (www.barbersociety.com/ insider). Look out for them on the social channels!

OUR HOTSPOTS

Deus ex Machina

Via Thaon Di Revel 3

20159 Milan

+39 02 83439230

www.deuscustoms.com/ cafes/milan/

The ultra-cool Deus Ex Machina store is located next to the very first Bullfrog location in the Isola district of Milan. The well-known Australian brand specialises in unique motorcycles, bicycles and surfboards. A clothing and accessories line has been developed around the brand’s three inspiring passions. This line has gained worldwide acclaim for its unrivalled graphics and imaginative combinations. The store’s restaurant and bar called Deus Café is the meeting place for everyone who loves the three worlds. So Deus Ex Machina is much more than just a brand: It is a culture.

Da Berti

Via Francesco Algarotti 20

20124 Milan

+39 02 669 4627 www.daberti.it

Restaurant Da Berti has been revered for its outstanding traditional Milanese cuisine and legendary wine cellar since 1866. Be sure to try the Ossobuco alla milanese! The waiters at this world-class restaurant are professional, attentive and unobtrusive. You can also savour al fresco dining during the summer months in the restaurant’s large garden.

Rocket bar

Ripa di Porta Ticinese 95 20143 Milan @rocketbarmilano

The recently opened Rocket Bar Milan has instantly become one of the top trendy places in the Navigli district. It features a tropical and vintage ambience

and serves up cocktails that tantalise the senses. And as the finishing touch to the total experience, the playlist has been created ad hoc by professional deejays. In short: this is the place to be for amazing cocktails.

1 Nike GTS ‘16 TXT

2 Adidas Ozweego

3 New Balance M990v5

4 Nike P-6000

5 Nike Shox TL

6 Vans UA Era 59 VLT LX

Solebox.com is the place for the newest and most exclusive sneakers. And if you’re in Amsterdam, be sure to visit Solebox Amsterdam. The store’s unique interior, which has been inspired by and created for the city of Amsterdam, is an experience in itself. Check out the online shop at www.solebox.com.

BABYLISSPRO FOIL SHAVERS

BaBylissPro Foil Shavers FXFS1E and FXFS2E are perfect for fading, tapering or finishing precision lines. Both shavers have all-metal housing. The FXFS2E has a double floating head and features the NiMH battery that delivers up to 3 hours of continuous run time on a single ultra-fast charge of just 3 hours.

More information

www.babylisspro.eu

Synthetic fibres (vegan friendly)

Captain Fawcett’s wooden handled synthetic fibre shaving brush, when used in conjunction with the Captain’s shaving soap or cream, produces a rich and voluminous lather. Synthetic fibres are an excellent alternative to farmed Badger

hair. The incredibly soft tips are beneficial to those with sensitive skin whilst replicating the brush properties required for a simply superb shave.

More information

www.captainfawcett.com

CAPTAIN FAWCETT’S SHAVING BRUSH

1922 BY J.M. KEUNE EAU DE TOILETTE

1922 by J.M. Keune is launching an exclusive eau de toilette. It’s a masculine fragrance that conveys both an air of freedom and sensuality. Scents of sandalwood and cedar with notes of musk and leather. Top notes of eucalyptus, cardamom and fig combine to create a wonderful fragrance that will become an indispensable part of discerning men’s daily routine.

More information

www.1922.keune.com

Captain Fawcett has collaborated with the worldfamous Scapicchio family, Italy’s preeminent shaving experts, to create a magnificent

fig, olive and bay rum shaving soap. The soap’s refreshing fragrance pays homage to Luigi Scapicchio’s great grandfather who immigrated to Chicago in 1910 and established his first Italian barber shop. The inspiration for this gloriously scented shaving soap is born from the abundant fig and olive groves found in the Scapicchio family’s native Puglia. A hint of West Indian Bay Rum, a traditional hair tonic, has been added for good measure, creating a fusion of both the Old and New World. This soap is the secret to the ultimate shave.

More information

www.captainfawcett.com

Scapicchio's Fig, Olive and Bay Rum Shaving Soap

American Crew® launches ACUMEN, a prestige line of grooming and skincare products formulated exclusively for men and all their key needs. ‘We know

that men are looking for multifunctional and effective products and ACUMEN fully meets this need,’ says David Raccuglia, founder of American Crew® .

DEPOT NO. 309 TEXTURIZING DUST

New formula to empower your hairstyle

This volume powder provides a light hold with a matte finish. It gives volume and structure to every hair style, particularly fine, thin and natural hair. Formulated with natural silica for hair styles with texture and volume.

More information

www.depotmaletools.com

The American Crew® ACUMEN collection includes 15 products of skincare, shaving, grooming and styling.

AMERICAN CREW ® ACUMEN™

Designed as a regimen of four steps covering Shower, Shave, Care and Style.

More information www.americancrew.com

The new 18.21 Man Made Deodorant is available in the well-known fragrances Spiced Vanilla and Sweet Tobacco and consequently fits in perfectly with the other 18.21 Man Made products. The deodorant’s solid gel stick detoxifies and nourishes the skin. The deodorant is also free of hazardous materials such as aluminium, alcohol and bicarbonate of soda. It is mild for sensitive skin and doesn’t stain.

More information www.1821manmade.com

18.21 MAN MADE DEODORANT

The man. His secret. His deodorant.

BARBER BABE

MARIA AGGELOGLOU

You see more and more female barbers these days. What attracts them to this traditionally male-dominated profession? Maria Aggeloglou grew up in her dad’s barber shop and decided to follow in his footsteps. A bold decision in Greece at the time!

Why did you become a barber?

´My family has been in barbering for generations. My grandfather opened a barber shop in Thessaloniki in 1901 and my father succeeded him. The barber shop was my dad’s life and I spent lots of time at his shop as a child watching him work or helping out. In the end I decided I wanted to become a barber too. That was

© Darren fotografie

15 years ago and Greece was pretty conservative back then. At the time I was one of the first women in Greece to become a barber. But it was my passion and fortunately my father was happy that I wanted to enter the profession and has supported me every step of the way.´

Creativity

‘I’m now a co-owner of two barber shops. My dad is relatively young and is still working. Even though I went to barbering college to learn the trade, I actually learned everything I know from him. I’ve also completed a number of training courses outside of Greece. The barbering profession is in my blood. I love that my work is a real outlet for my creativity. A great deal of technical skill goes into haircuts and I like that challenge. I also really enjoy giving excellent shaves.’

Prejudices

‘When I started working as a barber, there were a lot of clients who thought it was strange. Men in Greece aren’t used to seeing a woman in a barber shop. Greece is very different from other countries in that respect. I’ll never forget a client from Turkey who was in Greece on holiday. He refused to let me cut his hair and said I didn’t belong in a barber shop. But there weren’t any other barbers free and so he ended up letting me cut his hair after all. After I was finished, he was so happy that he paid me double the price! And every time he was in Greece after that he would visit our barber shop and ask for me specifically. I think he felt guilty that he had been so prejudiced. And I’ve seen the same thing with many other clients. They’re wary at first because they think a woman couldn’t be as good

as a man. But when they look in the mirror after I’ve cut their hair, they’re very pleased with the result and want me to help them every time. Fortunately it is now becoming easier for female barbers in Greece as well. That’s why I’m also glad I stuck with it. It’s how I in turn help young women who want to become barbers.’

More fun than I imagined

‘I’ve never regretted choosing this profession. Working in a barber shop is more fun and creative than I originally imagined. I can really put all of my passion into this job. I don’t only want my clients to have a fantastic experience; I also want to have a positive working atmosphere and satisfied clients.

Our barber shop provides luxury grooming treatments for men. Men used to spend more time on their appearance and I see it as a positive thing that this trend is making a real comeback. Why shouldn’t a man want to look well-groomed?

I see the modern barber shop as an evolution of the traditional shop. While we naturally still follow certain traditions, we’ve also added additional services to our range such as facials, hair removal, massages and manicures. The range has become much wider.’

Plans for the future

‘My dream is to one day fit out a bus like a barber shop and travel in it around the world. So that I can give treatments to men from all different cultures. Along the way I want to attend shows and events in different countries so I can come into contact with barbers from different countries to exchange knowledge and learn new techniques.’

1901 Barbershop

Karolou Ntil 3, Thessaloniki 546 23 @barbershop1901

I was one of the first female barbers in Greece

Many Greek men think women don’t belong in barber shops

Freedom of expression

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Ramon Claudio - @hotbarber

SKELETONFX FX7870GE

Photography: @luis_alvarez for BaBylissPRO

Barber Artist: @hotbarber

360° exposed T-blade

MOUSTACHE MAGNIFIQUE

The moustache is making a comeback among savvy men in their 30’s and 40’s. It’s a trend we’re seeing worldwide. Following a period in which beards have been all the rage, the time has come for something new. A moustache provides the perfect means for standing out in a crowd. This fact was showcased at the World Beard and Moustache Championships 2019 held in Antwerp last May.

Captain Fawcett is the global sponsor of this event. We received the official photos – a sensational series of moustache photos – via the

Official portraits of the 2019 World Beard and Moustache Championships in Antwerp taken by Iain Crockart

www.iaincrockart.com

www.captainfawcett.com

well-known barber Richie Finney from the UK, who is Captain Fawcett’s right hand. The photos were taken by photographer Iain Crockart, who serves as Captain Fawcett’s brand image manager. The photos clearly show the world of different ways moustaches can be used to express your individual personality!

ARE THE PRICES AN INDICATION OF YOUR VALUE? YOU ARE CHARGING

© José Donatz fotografie

'As an industry coach I get to talk to many hair professionals and very often the matter of pricing comes up, with questions such as: ‘AmIchargingenough formyservices?’

‘Iwanttochargemore, butI’mscaredmyclients willgoelsewhere.’

The best way to answer these questions is to instead ask, ‘How do I guarantee the best return of my investment?’ and the answer is always to build a rock-solid brand. Brands are so important. It is the strength of your brand that will help determine your pricing structures.

Whenever you purchase an expensive item there is almost certainly a strong brand associated with it. The brand would have successfully communicated to you their values and their expertise, which sets them apart from others in their marketplace and thus compelling you to invest with them.’

Brand Communication

‘Whether your personal brand is as a barber, a hairdresser or a salon owner, your brand communication needs to be strong, clear and robust. Customers will be drawn to your brand because you have taken time crafting out your unique skill set and values in your market.

Use social media platforms to get your message to your customers about what you can do for them. Individuals are always drawn to strong brand identities.

People who do not spend time crafting a strong brand unfortunately fall into the category of being a commodity. Their time is bought and sold far more cheaply. Successful brands do not operate with a commodity mind-set. Your brand needs to continuously engage with you customers providing them with a clear distinct message to retain customers whilst appealing to new customers.

So, to be able to charge the appropriate price according to your worth, your career profile and brand need to be at the top of the game!’

Exercise

‘If you are not sure where your brand sits in the industry why don't you take a few moments to do this brand building exercise.

Firstly, look at your career and your profile:

Is it a strong profile?

What are the core values of your work?

What is your brand communicating?

How can you make your brand stand out and serve your customers better?

Secondly, think about 2 popular brands that you love:

What are they known?

What do they mean to you?

How do they make you feel when you interact with them?

Why do you go back to them time and time again?

Now, do the same for your brand putting yourself in the shoes of your customer. You may find this hard to do, if so; ask a trusted friend who will be brutally honest. Better still ask some of your customers. This exercise will help to identify your strengths and the areas you can improve on to create a really impactful brand and thus charge more for what you do.

Remember, your brand is everything. Managed correctly it will give you stability, growth, loyalty and longevity within the industry.

Want to know more and delve a little deeper? Just scan the QR code and it will take you to a video series for us to work together on more brand building strategies.

Let me help you take your brand to the position it should be!’

Chris Foster – ‘the profile guy’

‘When it comes to what we charge as hair professionals we get very uncomfortable with the whole concept of pricing the services we provide. We tend to cringe and second-guess ourselves as to whether we are charging enough or too much for the services we provide.'

More Yang of Brotherhood Barbershop (TW)

Ming of 'Brothers Men Barbershop'(HK)

Barberteam

Sergio and Saskia Livesi, Z.one concept

DEPOT team (from left to right) Stefan Boonekamp, Carlos Lopes and Sergio Livesi

© Steven McKenna Photography

© Steven McKenna Photography

© Steven McKenna Photography

© Steven McKenna Photography

Charlie Venn © Steven McKenna Photography

Charlie Venn © Steven McKenna Photography

The Great British Barber Bash

Sam Massey © Steven McKenna Photography

© Steven McKenna Photography

INTERVIEW WITH BRIAN SWARRAY

Collection: MINI ME

Hair: Barber B Brian Swarray, Laimar Swarray, Shareace Rawlins

Photography: Emily Dickenson

Models: Barber B Brian Swarray (father), Laimar Swarray (son), Lucian Holliday (grandson)

- clothing @bestleedsuk barberb.co.uk

@piranhahairstudio

Brian was the first person in his family to become a barber. But he did begin a new family tradition because his son is following in his footsteps as a barber and his daughter as a hair stylist. He also has high hopes that his 11-year-old grandson will carry on the tradition. He’s now been working in the barbering business for 28 years and, in addition to running his barber shop, he travels the world for shows and education.

Finding a pair of clippers

‘My example was an old Jamaican barber who could shave figures in people’s hair. That was 30 years ago and he was a huge inspiration to me. I’m from a poor area of Leeds and was always going through rubbish bins in search of

something I could sell. I found a pair of clippers one day and started experimenting with them. I’ll never forget the first haircut I gave my brother as a model – it took me nearly two-and-ahalf hours to finish! I grew up in a ghetto where different cultures lived side by side. I’m mixed race, but I didn’t want to be black or white. Even back then I didn’t like labels and simply wanted to be a barber for everyone. But this doesn’t detract from the fact that the afro hair culture has been a massive inspiration to me. It is, after all, the source of so many trends, including fading techniques and hair tattoos. They’ve only become popular over the last ten years, but I’ve been doing them for nearly 30 years!’

Mosaic

‘I’m completely self-taught and never went to barbering college. When I started out, we obviously didn’t have YouTube or internet where you could find videos. What I learned in the beginning was to listen very closely to my clients. While they

were all men with afro hair at first, I eventually also took on clients with European or Asian hair. I started by learning how to cut afro hair because I’m convinced that if you’ve mastered the technique for afro hair, you can then go on to cut any type of hair. It’s not the same story the other way around and that’s why it’s smart to focus first on barbering afro hair so you can subsequently cut all different kinds of hair. Many men of colour unfortunately think that white barbers don’t know how to cut their hair properly. That’s rubbish and is actually one of the misconceptions I try to eliminate in my barbershop. We have barbers from a number of different ethnic backgrounds working at our barber shop and they’re proof that you shouldn’t think in labels. My barber shop is a mosaic of different cultures and that’s why we can inspire each other.’

Satisfaction

‘Back to where it all began. After practicing endlessly for six months, I opened my own shop in Leeds with one chair. It seemed to come easily to me and at a certain point more and more people started ringing me for a haircut. This work has given me self-confidence and made feel that I’m doing something that matters. As a barber I have the unique opportunity to transform and inspire others. It’s a great feeling to see my clients leave the shop with greater selfconfidence. I could have never imagined that this work would give me so much satisfaction. And when I found out I could get paid for my hobby, I was over the moon! I tried to become better every day and started taking part in competitions. Thanks to this profession, I’ve been able to travel extensively and it has really enriched my life.’

Sharing knowledge

‘I eventually also founded an academy where I can teach my techniques to other barbers.

My mission: to share my knowledge and help the younger generation get ahead. I’m now also developing a special educational method for children to teach them about barbering in the form of a play. Learning should be fun and if someone’s passion is ignited, they’ll do everything possible to become better. Events such as BarberSociety Live clearly provide an outstanding platform for sharing your knowledge. That’s why I’m so grateful I’ve been given the opportunity to give a show at the event in order to do my part for the continued development of the profession.’

Movember

‘I also think it’s important to give back to the community. This is why I supported the Movember Foundation in their initiative to raise greater awareness of prostate cancer among men. The project was linked to the rugby league because rugby fans often didn’t give any thought to the topic of prostate cancer. Rugby fans were invited to pop into a special “burly Man Van” for a free haircut on the condition that they’d also listen to some important information about prostate cancer. The idea behind this was that barbers have a great deal of influence thanks to their face-to-face contact with clients. As barbers, we’re used to listening to their problems and that puts us in a good positon to provide information. The project was a massive success and received extensive media attention.’

‘I also want to use my academy to raise men’s awareness of various health risks and the preventative actions they can take. Men often don’t think enough about their health and this means arming them with awareness and information can potentially help prevent premature death. It´s all about encouraging them to see a doctor and pay more attention to their health and fitness.’

Own choice

‘My children have more or less grown up in the barber shop because I was always working. My son shares my passion and I taught him the trade when he was 12. He trained as an accountant, but decided to take up a career in barbering instead. I’m convinced that you can only be a good barber when you’ve decided yourself that barbering is what you want to do with your life. Now we do hair shows together and his is the manager of my shop. My daughter is a mother and a part-time hairdresser. Her son is now eleven and he loves to spend time at the barber shop. Even though he’s still young, I can tell that he’s interested in barbering. But I’ll never push him; he has to make up his own mind.’

The future

‘I think that this is only the beginning. There are still so many things I would like to do. Also in the field of education and techniques. And I want to open a barber shop that is open 24 hours a day. This is a great profession that opens up a world of opportunities!’

Men should be more aware of their health

Useful information

Specialities include hair tattoos and multicultural haircuts. Each barber has his own workstation; there are 12 workstations in total.

The prices of the services range from € 10 to € 50 depending on the barber. Open 6 days a week from 9:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m., closed on Sundays.

Scheduled appointments and walk-ins.

Favourite brand: Wahl Clippers, Barbicide

Piranha Hairstudio

60 Northstreet, Leeds www.barberb.co.uk

© Darren fotografie BarberSociety Live 2019 Laimar Swarray (l) Brian Swarray (r)

Josh and Nile

MEET THE NEW STYLING ESSENTIALS

This season it’s all about texture. Once considered wild and rebellious, textured hair is now modern and trendy on both long and short hair. Inspired by this trend we created three new styling essentials. All very versatile, with a matte finish.