BarberSociety magazine international Fall 2020 issue (in English) by BarberSociety magazine

INTERVIEW WITH JULIUS CVESAR BUILD YOUR OWN DOOR AND SET OF KEYS BARBERS SAVE LIVES JOIN TOM CHAPMAN’S “THE LIONS BARBER COLLECTIVE”

BARBERSOCIETY MAGAZINE

ADD COLOUR TO AUTUMN B ARBERS ON HAIR COLOURING T RENDS P RODUCTS

FALL 2020 | #5 | € 12.50

INTERVIEW WITH PAUL MAC I WOULD RATHER BE OVER-THE-TOP THAN MIDDLE-OF-THE-ROAD

Enes Dogan | Hair Stylist NĂźrtingen, Germany

Extremly short. Extremly simple. I am Enes Dogan and by nature a perfectionist. With the GENIO PRO FADING EDITION, perfect and skin-close fades can be easily realized thanks to the short cutting length of 0.5 to 2 mm. It is absolutely reliable and sustainable thanks to its two exchangeable batteries for non-stop power. A masterpiece for my masterpieces. More details under: #moserpro

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Collection: Tribe Goals Hair: Paul Mac Special (IE) Photography: Ricky Mangala Stylist: Lewis Robert Cameron Model: Hugo Santos

EDITORIAL

THE DAVID BOWIE OF BARBERING Interview with Paul Mac

ADD COLOUR TO AUTUMN D iscover the hottest international trends in men’s hair colouring C olour products in focus

SLOW-COOKED SUCCESS Interview with Julius Cvesar

BARBERS & THE CIT Y Jakarta

HAIR TREND PREDICTIONS FOR AUTUMN/WINTER Jim Shaw, owner of Toni&Guy Billericay (UK)

TRENDS Jim Shaw & Daisy Carter, Johann Glaser, Pelsynera, Michel Neuteboom, Tommie Jansen, Wiardi Koopmeiners, Alexander Prasser, Paul Mac Special, TONI&GUY Salon Live show, Sergio Molina Fernández, Rory Mason & Ashley Gamble, Jonathan Andrew for Fudge Professional

PRODUCT NEWS In Shop, Grooming, Lifestyle

BARBER BABE Interview with Eva Suárez

BARBERS SAVE LIVES The Lions Barber Collective

COLUMN CHRIS FOSTER The organic Facebook game: 6 hacks

ALL IN THE FAMILY Interview with Anthony Komodikis

12 40

Editor in Chief Miranda Vlas, press@barbersociety.com Editor Marit Heemskerk Contributor Chris Foster Art Direction Merktuig Amsterdam; Jarno Aafjes, Dagmar van den Brink Founding Editor Marc van de Hare Advertisements & Publisher BarberSociety B.V. / info@barbersociety.com / Miranda Vlas +31 (0)6 54 212 432 ©BarberSociety is a publication of BarberSociety B.V. Nothing from this publication may be copied without the prior consent of the publisher. BarberSociety may not be included in a portfolio of magazines without prior written consent. BarberSociety is not responsible for any inaccuracies in this publication. BarberSociety is not responsible for any actions by third parties that could ensue from reading this publication. BarberSociety reserves the right to publish submitted materials entirely or partially without notification. More information is available at www.barbersociety.com.

Coiffure Award 2020 nominee The Netherlands Hair: Siko van Berkel (NL) Photography: G + K @sikovanberkel

I hope you are all doing well. Hopefully, you’ve been able to start cutting hair again and are supporting each other during these uncertain times. Since I can’t attend any barber events during this period, I’m so happy I can use the phone and the online channels to keep in touch with my colleagues and stay up to date on the global trends and developments in our profession.

EDITORIAL COLOUR, COLOUR, COLOUR I began noticing a while back that barbers are increasingly using men’s hair colouring, both pastel and platinum tints and bold and striking colours. It’s one way we can give men a dash of colour during this ‘grey’ period. Colouring is also a great means for our clients to express their individuality. Autumn always heralds the kick-off of the new fashion season. So it’s the perfect time for a colour special. That’s why this themed edition showcases the latest trends in men’s hair colouring and colouring products. Hair colouring artists We’ve got some incredible hair colouring artists within the barbering community. I’m proud that we’ve been able to give some of these artists the chance to be on stage at BarberSociety Live in previous years. One of them is award-winning Irish barber Paul Mac, who’s been called the David Bowie of barbering, and American barber Julius Cvesar. I’m always hugely impressed when I spot pictures of their hair creations on Instagram. So I’m delighted that we’ve interviewed them for this edition to find out more about their creative drive. Be sure to read their inspiring stories of their journeys in barbering. The key message: Stay true to yourself, create your own opportunities and persevere. I couldn’t agree more! Grooming in Indonesia Hair artist Yudhekk from Jakarta has also racked up a massive

number of followers thanks to his bold colourful hair artistry. I’ve been following him on Instagram for a while now, so I was thrilled to get the chance to meet him in person in Jakarta last year. It was nice of him to make a long journey through Java for our meeting. You’re sure to see and hear more about him as he takes the world by storm. We’re pleased to share a sampling of his fantastic creations in our colour trend pages. Also check out all the other hair colour creations we’ve received from barbers around the world. They’re super inspiring! So I’d like to thank everyone who has contributed to this edition. It’s amazing to see how barbers from the Netherlands to Australia and everywhere in between are working with colour. Indonesia’s strong grooming culture is also highlighted in our ‘Barbers & the City’ section that places Jakarta in the spotlight. Last year, Oky and Fatsi, two pioneers in the field of barbering in Indonesia, took me on a tour of different barbershops in the country. It was a real privilege to visit some of the island’s amazing barbershops and meet such talented barbers! Developments worldwide This edition has an international flavour and provides a good picture of global developments in our fantastic industry. Be inspired by the moving stories of Spanish barber babe Eva Suárez, who shares her ambition to pursue lifetime learning,

Stay true to yourself, create your own opportunities and persevere UK barber Anthony Komodikis on three generations of barbers, and Jim Shaw, owner of Toni&Guy Billericay, UK, on his trend predictions for the future. Want to save a life too? With Movember just around the corner, I would like to draw special attention to ‘The Lions Barber Collective’. It’s an excellent initiative from well-known British barber Tom Chapman. Many barbers have already joined this collective and as a result are genuinely saving lives. Like to find out more? Read more on page 83, take the free training course and become a ‘lion’. In closing: Did you know that the type of emoji impacts the Facebook algorithm? Check out Chris Foster’s six hacks on this topic in his column. I hope you enjoy reading this edition and wish you a colourful autumn!

Marc van de Hare BarberSociety Founder

I would rather be over-the-top than middle-of-the-road

INTERV IEW

INTERVIEW PAUL MAC

THE DAVID BOWIE OF BARBERING Paul Mac has taken an extraordinary journey to the top of the barbering world. Growing up in a rural town in Ireland called Ahiohill, pursuing a career in barbering wasn’t a common path to take. Paul first worked as a carpenter and a factory worker but found both jobs ‘soul-killing’. He had always been drawn to barbering. So he followed his heart. Eighteen years ago, Paul moved to Cork, attended barbering college and worked his way up from the bottom. His hard work, love of his craft and out-of-the-box creativity have paid off. Today he is one of the world’s most progressive barbers. Racking up five world titles, over twenty awards and twenty magazine covers , including the cover of this edition of BarberSociety magazine. His styles can be raw and edgy, futuristic punk or rockabilly reinvented. He’s been called the ‘David Bowie of the barbering industry’. We met up with Paul Mac virtually to talk about the changing industry, creative drive and daring to be different.

Taking the road less followed Paul Mac bucked convention and took a different direction: “I first worked in carpentry, but I always wanted to cut hair. I was always cutting my friends’ hair and was interested in what celebrities like David Beckham were doing with their hair, especially funkier cuts and colouring. But I’m from a remote place in Ireland where back then it would have been considered strange for a lad to go into cutting hair. But I took the leap around eighteen years ago.” He didn’t skyrocket to the top but worked his way from the bottom up. Paul says: “It was hard for me to get a job in Cork as I don’t have

any family or connections in barbering. And back then barber shops were like conveyor belts. They’d hire attractive girls to get the lads in. It was get the lads in and get ‘em out. I first did hairdressing for two years and then attended St. John’s Central College for a year, followed by a year working at Toni & Guy. After that I moved to a barbershop where I stayed for eight years. I then rented a chair in another shop for almost three years, which is the shop I have now. But I completely rebranded and renovated it, so I’ve had Paul Mac Special for almost four years. I designed the barbershop myself, so my 7

carpentry came in handy.” Last year, Paul launched @Hair_Slayerz. His objective with this new venture is to bring together like-minded professionals to share experiences, learn from each other and pursue growth and development. Paul explains: “We’re a community of industry black sheep showcasing alternative artists who weren’t being represented on more commercial pages. Our main aim is to inspire through our education masterclasses.” A cut and a dram A distinctive feature of Paul Mac Special is that it serves complimentary Jameson whiskey. He entered a partnership with the whiskey distillery over three years ago and it’s been a perfect match: “Jameson contacted

me when I was opening my shop and wanted to sponsor me. I thought ‘holy shit’ – Ireland’s biggest export brewed right here in Cork wants to work with me. I was delighted. Initially for three months, it’s now been going strong for three and a half years. The sponsorship helps attract clients. Stag and groom’s parties love it and it’s a great photo opportunity. It’s a hit with tourists. A true Cork experience.” An artist at heart How did he get into avant-garde work? “I was the go-to guy in Cork for punk kids wanting funkier styles. When I started competing, I did more classic work, but I didn’t really have the drive for it. I like preparing, making mood boards and such. I love telling a story, rather than just shooting cool hair against

a white backdrop. Most people use professional models, but they won’t let you do anything funky. I use a lot of Emo kids and drag queens, they’re the best because they’re used to spending hours getting ready and they love the creative process. I was on the British men’s hairdressing team, MHFed, and President Adam Sloan said I was the David Bowie of barbering.” Bringing colour to life Paul uses vibrant colours and sees men’s hair colouring going mainstream. “The younger generation is image conscious and keeps up with trends. They see celebs – footballers, fitness models, reality stars colouring or bleaching their hair and follow trend. Platinum and silver are the mainstream colours. But you take it further with editorial work. I draw my inspiration from America where pastel tones and neon colours are popular. Pulp Riot & Brazilian Bond Builder are the the brands I usually use; they’ve got really vibrant colours.” Blue weekend That colouring can sometimes go horribly wrong, is something Paul knows from experience. “When I was with Toni & Guy, the head colour technician didn’t like me. One busy Christmas, he asked me to go downstairs and shampoo his client. He said to use White Violet shampoo, which I’d never heard of. So I was searching the shelf for White Violet, but there was no sign of it. It was dead busy, so I thought: I’m not going back up to ask him. I was thinking flower and colour and scanned the shelf and spotted Blue Orchard. That’s it! So I used this Blue Orchard instead of White Violet, which turned her highlights blue. I had to go up and tell him and he was like the anti-Christ. She was nice about it. But she did have to have blue highlights all weekend and come back in on Monday for a redo. He never spoke to me again.”

@paulmacspecial World-class competitor Paul has only been taking part in competitions for the last seven years. Why participate in competitions? “It gets your name out and attracts brands’ attention. I’m an ambassador for Denman brushes, Matakki scissors and JRL clippers and there’s more in the pipeline.” He’s changed his approach through the years. “The first competitions I won were with generic stuff. But once I started doing my avant-garde work, I didn’t even place for over two years. But I stuck to my dream. I’m lucky my wife and other mentors have been so supportive. Most people said: tone it down, it’s mad, judges won’t get it, it’s too extreme for barbering. But once I won titles in the UK and US, recognition followed in Ireland and it just snowballed down.”

Paul would rather be overthe-top than middle-of-theroad. “I’d rather be Marmite than vanilla. I’d rather be first or last than just consistently quite good. I want to make a memorable statement.” His work is taking the world by storm: “I was in LA for ten days in January, collaborating with American stars like Hair God Zito, Mikey Teeze and Marina Hayes. We did a live collab session. Everybody loved it. It was totally chill, and we finished with a live photoshoot. That landed us on the cover of Estetica and it was featured twice as Behind the Chair’s Look of the Day ahead of the Chair Awards, which I won three years ago and was my big break in America. So hopefully this will do the business again.”

Holy shit – Ireland’s biggest export wants to work with me

Future-focused So where does Paul go from here? “I’ve been inducted into the Irish Hairdressing Hall of Fame. So I won’t be competing in men’s barbering in Ireland because you can’t go any higher. I’ll do international competing like Behind the Chair. My main aim is to get the Hair_Slayerz really take off, do more masterclasses and online education and get into hair tools and hair products down the line. I’d like to do more with the brands I’m already representing. Denman have made two customized Paul Mac brushes and a Hair_Slayerz one.” A word of advice His advice to barbers moving up in the industry? “Be yourself. Be original. It’s better to be Marmite that people love or hate. There aren’t enough shepherds and too many sheep. There are a few people who lead the way, and everyone just copies them to death rather than trying to forge their own way in the industry. The people who push forward are the ones who’ll be remembered.” 9

COLOUR TRENDS 11

Photography: Alex Snaps, Model: Robert Mc Gillicuddy

PAUL MAC (IE) @PAULMACSPECIAL

Collection: Tribe Goals, Photography: Ricky Mangala, Stylist: Lewis Robert Cameron, Models: Hugo Santos, Timmy Carey, Lee Harmon, Aj Tinsley

Photography: Kest , Model: Amphibian

PAUL MAC (IE) @PAULMACSPECIAL

Photography: Kest, Model: Amphibian

Photography: Kest , Model: Amphibian

Collection: COLORES by BRAIN ON ACADEMY Color: Ismael de Mora Photography: Jorge Cabrera, make-up: Louis Visage

FRAN ARANDA & ISMAEL DE MORA (ES) @FRANARANDA_, @ISMAELDEMORA_

Photography: @Er.ic_s 18

ELI MINDSET (AU) @ELI_MINDSET_

EVA SUÁREZ (ES) @EVASUAREZ5

20 Photography: Javier Martos Pérez, Model: Ángel González Tercero

MIHAELA STELNICEANU (RO) @MIKKY.ELLA

Model: @rwtattoos

LEXIE SHAY RABBETT (AU) @HAIR_BY_LEXIESHAY

Hair: luka Chitty @lukachitty and Ryan Cullen @ryancullenhair Colour: Lexie and Christabel Legrande @christabel_legrande for Pulp Riot Styling: @oldbutgoldvintage, Photography: @poochpurtillphotography Model: @ad.kay

Model: @jordi_coles

Hair: @adam_t.a.b, dyed and styled: @jacob_t.a.b

BYRON WALTERS (UK) @BARBERBYRON, @LORDSBARBERING

JACOB HOLLILAND (UK) @JACOB_T.A.B, @THE_ATTENTIVE_BARBER 24

JAY LEE (HK) @BARBERJAYLEE

YUDHEKK (ID) @YUDHEKK

Colour: Holland Color team @keunehaircosmetics products: Keune Color Chameleon range Photography: @korte_metten Model: @linairo

Collection: White Creations Photography: Felix Northover Model: Jack Rayfield

JAMES BEAUMONT (UK) @JAMES_BEAUMONT

Model: Angel

SONIA AVILA FERNÁNDEZ (ES) @SNAV_GROOMING

Model: rapper The Game @losangelesconfidential

FREAKZ DU ARTZ (NL) @FREAKZDUARTZ

Hair: Sid Sottung Color: Guste Kliukaite Model: Kurt

Hair: Matthew Fleetwood Color: Guste Kliukaite Model: Florence

SID SOTTUNG ACADEMY (UK) @SIDSOTTUNGACADEMY

Photography/image: Hairdressers Journal

TONI&GUY SALON LIVE SHOW (UK)

JULIUS CVESAR (US) @JULIUSCAESAR

INTERV IEW

‘SLOW-COOKED’ SUCCESS Build your own door and set of keys

Julius Cvesar is a man on a mission. He’s been passionately dedicated to delivering highly-skilled barbering since launching his career eighteen years ago. His signature hair styles are characterised by their eclectic versatility and impeccable craftsmanship respecting the finest barbering traditions. Hair colouring features prominently in many of his styles, with vivid and ultra-bold colours being his go-to palette. His work hasn’t gone unnoticed by the international barbering press and awards competitions. In 2018, he was named Men’s Groomer of the Year at Barbercon NYC. Julius also took centre stage at the 2019 edition of BarberSociety Live for a show with Hayden Cassidy. He’s actively building his brand by leveraging social media to present his work and ideas to the world. With 100K+ Instagram followers, he’s reaching an ever-wider audience globally. He opened ALL HAIL STUDIO and ALL HAIL ACADEMY in downtown LA in early 2019. We spoke with Julius virtually to talk about success, signature cuts and barrier-breaking colours.

INTERVIEW WITH JULIUS CVESAR 37

It has helped break the barrier of gender norms

Unlocking the door to success What does Julius see as the key to his success? “I’ve said before: When you come knocking at the doors of opportunity, and no one answers, you don’t simply just give up. You go build your own door and your own set of keys.” He is convinced the secret to international success lies in building relationships with people who share your passion and commitment to the industry. “That’s what is most important. It’s all about building real relationships and connections with like-minded individuals.” Inspiring distinction Julius’ hair styles are one-of-akind and painstakingly tailored to the individual. His cuts are known for their mosaic mix of classic barbering methods and progressive new ideologies. What makes a signature Julius Cvesar cut distinctive? Julius explains: “A few factors that make my work distinctive really come from the root of my inspirations. I’m well-versed in multicultural haircuts from classic traditional to urban clipper fading to precision salon-friendly styles. I try to really deliver a haircut and style that is cohesive to my client and their lifestyle.”

It’s 2020, so it’s less about inventing and more about innovating. I agree that, due to industries like hair and fashion, it has helped break the barrier of gender norms. Very popular colours right now are vibrant neons and deep heavily saturated colours. Los Angeles is definitely a perfect landscape for all the crazy hair colours we see today, but I am slowly seeing it more and more all around the world.” Demonstrating excellence Julius gave a show together with Hayden Cassidy at last year’s BarberSociety Live in Amsterdam. Why does he think it’s important to take part in barbering shows? “As a passionate serviceman of my industry, I find it important to make it out to the barbering shows. It is very easy to get stuck behind the chair with a full schedule, and although we may be busy cutting hair all day, we are not giving ourselves a chance to grow in skillset, get up to date with the new trends

and innovations of our industry, and to network with equally passionate peers of our industry.” Taking the world by storm Opening All Hail Studio and All Hail Academy in 2019 marked a major step forward in Julius’ goal of being a leader in the industry worldwide. He explains his approach to these ventures and what he wants to achieve through them going forward. “ALL HAIL and its divisions like the creative space: ALL HAIL studio and the educational platform ALL HAIL academy are very special to me. I am in this game for the long game. I am in no rush, as I want everything to flow slow-cooked and thorough. The focus is to continue to share the ALL HAIL narrative with the world, and hope that one day it can too play a role in being a leader in the industry on a global scale.” @juliuscaesar

Julius draws his inspiration from the visual arts and says this artist’s eye is reflected in his styles. “Using references from architecture, art, and fashion within my work allows me to see the hair differently. My signature style can be found in the attitude of my finished works. Through using photography, bold imagery, and the landscape of Downtown LA, I think it makes my work quite disruptive.” Breaking barriers with colour The extensive use of vibrant colours set Julius’ hair styles apart. Is colouring reserved for his avant garde work or does he see men’s hair colouring going mainstream? “Men’s hair colouring isn’t anything new. 39

COLOUR PRODUCTS

KEUNE COLOR CHAMELEON From boldly outspoken hair to subtle statements, Keune Color Chameleon is a range of nine intense direct dyes, plus two shade shifters to pastelize or deepen, that offer vibrant, fashion-forward color results. More information www.keune.com

OSMO IKON® PERMANENT HAIR COLOR SYSTEM OSMO® has repackaged and reformulated its range of vegan friendly professional colour. In addition to introducing 18 exciting new shades, the low ammonia formulas have been adapted to include more conditioning ingredients and 100% grey coverage.

JOICO COLOR INTENSITY COLLECTION ‘LOVE AURA’

More information www.osmo.uk.com

The new Color Intensity collection from JOICO Brand Ambassador Larisa Love is inspired by the physical and emotional transformation of positive energy and connection. This artistic palette of five whimsical shades will spark a whole new love affair with color. Love Aura Collection – an alluring color palette designed to make chic color accessible to anyone. More information www.joico.eu

This service neutralises unwanted highlights, fades grey hair and revives dull hair by restoring texture and substance. It is innovative and perfectly adapted to menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s needs. Giving natural results in just 5 minutes. It fades with each shampoo (about 24) without any root

effect or false highlights. American Crew Precision Blend consists of a Precision Blend Developer (11 to 22 colours) and a Precision Blend Coloration (4 shades). Mixture 1+1. More information www.americancrew.com

COLOUR PRODUCTS

AMERICAN CREW PRECISION BLEND

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL CHROMA ID Chroma ID is Schwarzkopf Professionalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first 100% customisable, semi-permanent mix and tone colour system with integrated Bonding Technology for intense care. From subtle to bold shades, the possibilities are endless. More information www.schwarzkopf-professional.com 41

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BARBERS & THE CITY

Team BarberSociety regularly travels to other cities to gain inspiration. Before the Coronavirus outbreak, the team visited some top barber shops in Jakarta, the capital city of Indonesia. We asked the Indonesian barbers to share with us their must-visit hotspots! Once the pandemic is behind us, be sure to visit beautiful Indonesia and drop by these hotspots and these cool Indonesian barber shops for a haircut! Because one thing is for sure: Indonesia has a strong grooming culture and highly skilled barbers! 43

CHIEF BARBERSHOP

Ciragil branch Jl. Ciragil No. 11 Jakarta Selatan +62 217251130

Kemang branch Jl. Kemany Raya No.27D Jakarta Selatan +62 81290008559 www.chiefbarbersupplies.co @chief.barbersupplies Chief Barbershop, the pioneer of the barbershop trend in Jakarta, was founded in 2013 by Oky and Fatsi, two great guys with a different background. Located in the heart of Jakarta, Chief Barbershop currently operates 5 branches with all very talented barbers. Besides authentic barber chairs, all branches are decorated with industrial and rustic interior design and art of a famous Indonesian artist. However, the Cipete branch showcases a totally different 44

design ultimately for classy gentlemen experiences. In addition to the barbershops, Chief Barber & Supplies Co. is looking after barbershop business and offers male grooming products including Chief pomades and the first in the world oil-based pomade removal. Products that are developed with help of a group of R&D experts. Chief barbershop has been awarded as Best Barbershop in Jakarta by Men’s Health Magazine and with their product range they won ‘Best hair grooming product’ in Indonesia in 2016. Oky & Fatsi took us to two of their nice and spacious branches: Ciragil and Kemang.

OUR HOTSPOTS GIOI Jalan Senopati Raya No.88, RT.7/RW.3, Selong, Kec. Kby. Baru, Kota Jakarta Selatan, Daerah Khusus Ibukota Jakarta 12190 +62878 8000 6101 @gioijakarta & Remboelan 10 Different locations Check the website for the addresses: www.remboelan.com These two restaurants are definitely our favourites! They serve authentic IndonesianAsian Cuisine with a touch of fushion and meals are cooked by an award-winning chef. Asian cuisine with a twist.

Duck Down Bar SOHO Building - Basement Floor Jl. Gunawarman No. 61 Kebayoran Baru, Jakarta Selatan 12240 +62 21 27519786 https://biko-group.com/ duck-down-bar

stylish and spacious restaurant setting and several different lounge areas, both indoors and outdoors, where the terrace is completed with an amazing rooftop infinity pool.

Duck Down is the coolest bar in Jakarta. You can enjoy music, hang out with the boys, drink beers and have a great time. Skye BCA Tower Lt. 56, Jl. M.H. Thamrin No. 1 RT.001 / RW.005, Menteng, Jakarta Pusat 10350 +62 021 23586996 www.ismaya.com/eat-drink/skye Skye is a rooftop bar and restaurant located in Jakartaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tallest building where you can take in great views of the cityscape from the sky. They also serve a very good cocktails selection. Skye comes with a 45

FRANK’S BARBER

Jl. Kemang Raya No.15 Jakarta 12730 +62 878-8323-3009 @franksjkt Frank’s Barber was established in 2014. It is a relaxed barbershop where customers can get a great ‘hair and mo’ do with an Indonesian twist. Here’s a selection of Barber Ed’s hotspots. OUR HOTSPOTS William’s – casual dining Jl. Tulodong Atas No. 28 SCBD, Jakarta 12110 +62 21-7242828 www.williams.co.id My favourite restaurant is William’s- casual dining. William’s offers a thoughtful menu homage to Western-Asian comfort food in a laidback place located in the heart of Jakarta’s central business district. Try their signature salmon, it’s amazing! 48

Nitro Coffee Jl. Ciranjang 10, Kebayoran Baru Jl. Sumenep 24, Menteng @nitrocoffee.id If you’re after coffee and sweets, our choice is Nitro coffee, for me it’s the best coffee in town.

Leon Club Jalan Wijaya no 25 RT.6/RW.4, Petogogan, Kby. Baru, Kota Jakarta Selatan, Daerah Khusus Ibukota Jakarta 12160 +62 21 7221188 www.leonjakarta.com

Loewy Bistro & Bar Oakwood Premier Cozmo Jl. Lingkar Mega Kuningan E4.2 No.1 Selatan Jakarta 12950 +62 21 25542378 www.loewyjakarta.com

The place to be is Leon! Leon offers a sophisticated and relaxed inner city drinking and dining experience. Explore a vintage meets modern ambience and catch the rhythm with Leon’s selection of fine music.

My favourite bar is Loewy in Kuningan area. A casual 1940s inspired bistro & bar serving classic brasserie dishes & awesome cocktails! A well-designed but informal décor, and adding to the mix: a buzzing, energetic bar serving the best, stiffest drinks in town.

These Indonesian barber shops will naturally also be shown in 360-degree virtual tours on the website (www.barbersociety.com /insider). Look out for them on the social channels!

Owner and director of Toni & Guy Billericay

JIM SHAW

AUTUMN

TRENDS WINTER

PREDICTIONS

2020 has definitely been a year to remember and I can’t believe we are heading towards fall! As autumn quickly approaches, below I have put together my top 5 men’s hair trend predictions for autumn/winter outlining what I think men will be asking for in the salon as the new season approaches.

Long and wavy During the lockdown period we noticed men either shaving all their hair off or allowing their hair to grow long and embracing it. I think a lot of men were surprised at how much they would like the longer length and how much easier this is to style. And now, more men are starting to come into the salon and keep their hair slightly longer and instead of opting for a complete restyle, they have just been trimming their hair or asking for advice on styles to suit the longer length. Waves are a hairstyle that we have seen become more and more common and I think this will definitely continue into autumn/ winter 2020. Men love to have hair that’s easy to style and all that’s required for this look is a simple texturizing spray like a salt spray to give the hair more of a wave and some volume and grit. This is such a casual yet cool hairstyle and will be a huge hit with men due to it being a very low maintenance style. 1

Slicked back I have started to notice slick back hairstyles becoming more on trend recently. They work well for those with short or long hair, where a hairdryer can be used to slick the hair back off the face before finishing with a gel or serum for hold or shine. I think this look is a very sophisticated look and is great for men who like that professional, business man look. It’s also a great look as it works for most face shapes and it can be made more contemporary by pairing it with an undercut. 2

Jim Shaw, former UK MTVs resident art director, is an award winning, highly talented stylist and successful salon owner. Both in 2019 as well as in 2007 he won the title of British Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hairdresser. His artistic work has continued to see him nominated and he has been regularly featured in magazines. Jimâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s expertise has gained him an impressive list of celebrity clients. As a sought-after hairdresser, his skills and talent are shown at London Fashion week and window campaigns for various brands.

Buzz cut As I mentioned previously, a lot of men will have experimented with the buzz cut during the lockdown period and shaved off all their hair as it got too long and unruly. I think a lot of men will have been surprised that they could pull of this look and also would have loved how low maintenance this style is with no styling required. If a client is interested in trying this in the salon, we normally advise to start with a clipper on the number 3 or 2 and then they can see how they feel before cutting this any shorter and perhaps going to a number 1. 3

Side partings Side partings are a great way for men to change up their look, particularly if they are used to a middle parting, as changing to a side parting can give their hair added volume. Side partings will continue to become popular as we come into the autumn/winter season and there are so many ways these can be incorporated into menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hairstyles, whether they have short or long hair. A quiff, fade or comb over style also looks particularly great paired with a side parting, adding more drama to the look and giving it an overall more contemporary finish. 4

Short and textured I think the key to looks coming into autumn/winter 2020 is that they are definitely looking more low maintenance, textured and soft. With this in mind, those who prefer shorter hairstyles will be looking at adding more texture into their style and we will notice a lot of men asking for layers within their short hair to do this or requesting more of a Caesar style haircut, where the hair is faded on the sides and thickness and texture is left on the top. 5

JIM SHAW & DAISY CARTER

Hair: Jim Shaw and Daisy Carter Styling: Jim Shaw Photography: Tony Le Britton Makeup: Roseanna Velin @jimshawhair, @daisycarter1

UNITED KINGDOM

‘BEST INTERNATIONAL MEN’S COMMERCIAL COLLECTION’

@INTERNATIONAL HAIRDRESSING AWARDS, MADRID

Hair: Jim Shaw and Daisy Carter Styling: Jim Shaw Photography: Tony Le Britton Makeup: Roseanna Velin @jimshawhair, @daisycarter1

JIM SHAW & DAISY CARTER

Hair: Jim Shaw and Daisy Carter Styling: Jim Shaw Hair: Bjorn la Tulippe Photography: Tony Le(NL) Britton Photography: Makeup: Roseanna Rob Jacobs Velin @latulippehair@daisycarter1 @jimshawhair,

UNITED KINGDOM

‘BEST INTERNATIONAL MEN’S COMMERCIAL COLLECTION’ @INTERNATIONAL HAIRDRESSING AWARDS, MADRID

Hair: Johann Glaser (AT) Photography: Daniel Waschnig Model: Martin BrandstĂ¤tter @barbershop_glaser

JOHANN GLASER

AUSTRIA

PELSYNERA

Collection: DES Hair & Styling: Sonia Neri, Pelsynera (ES) Photography: David Arnal MUA: @de_maria @pelsynera

SPAIN

Collection: DES Hair & Styling: Sonia Neri, Pelsynera (ES) Photography: David Arnal MUA: @de_maria @pelsynera

PELSYNERA

Collection: DES Hair & Styling: Sonia Neri, Pelsynera (ES) Photography: David Arnal MUA: @de_maria @pelsynera

SPAIN

Hair: Michel Neuteboom (NL) Photography: Petra Holland @obviouskappers

MICHEL NEUTEBOOM

THE NETHERLANDS

COIFFURE AWARD 2020 NOMINEE

TOMMIE JANSEN

COIFFURE AWARD 2020 NOMINEE

Hair: Tommie Jansen (NL) Photography: Ivo Rikkert @lartistehair

THE NETHERLANDS

Hair: Wiardi Koopmeiners (NL) Photography: Ivo de Kok @wiardidk_hair

WIARDI KOOPMEINERS

THE NETHERLANDS

COIFFURE AWARD 2020 NOMINEE

ALEXANDER PRASSER

Collection: A tribute to the Wild Wild West Concept: Alexander Prasser & Stefan Leiter Hair & Styling: Alexander Prasser Photography: Stefan Leitner @dirtyduke___ , @dukejohns_barbershop_graz

AUSTRIA

Collection: A tribute to the Wild Wild West Concept: Alexander Prasser & Stefan Leiter Hair & Styling: Alexander Prasser Photography: Stefan Leitner @dirtyduke___ , @dukejohns_barbershop_graz

PAUL MAC SPECIAL

Hair & Styling: Paul Mac (IE) Photography: Kest Products: Denman Images: FPA @paulmacspecial

IRELAND

Hair & Styling: Paul Mac (IE) Photography: Kest Products: Denman Images: FPA @paulmacspecial

TONI&GUY SALON LIVE SHOW

@ Salon International 2019 Photography/images: Hairdressers Journal

UNITED KINGDOM

@ Salon International 2019 Photography/images: Hairdressers Journal

SERGIO MOLINA FERNร NDEZ

Hair: Sergio Molina Fernรกndez Photography: Jan Luengo Makeup: Emma Godefroy Styling: Aitor Sedano Assistant: Naiara Adsuara @hairsergiomolina

SPAIN

Hair: Sergio Molina Fernรกndez Photography: Jan Luengo Makeup: Emma Godefroy Styling: Aitor Sedano Assistant: Naiara Adsuara @hairsergiomolina

RORY MASON & ASHLEY GAMBLE

Collection: Chameleon Hair: Rory Mason & Ashley Gamble (UK) Photography: Richard Miles Model: @charitykase @roryantoniohair @ashleygamblehair

UNITED KINGDOM

Collection: Chameleon Hair: Rory Mason & Ashley Gamble (UK) Photography: Richard Miles Model: @charitykase @roryantoniohair @ashleygamblehair

JONATHAN ANDREW

FOR FUDGE PROFESSIONAL

Hair: Jonathan Andrew Photography: Simon Songhurst Makeup: Mario Brooksbank Stylist: Oliver Vaugyhn @jonathanjandrew, @fudgehair

UNITED KINGDOM

Hair: Jonathan Andrew Photography: Simon Songhurst Makeup: Mario Brooksbank Stylist: Oliver Vaugyhn @jonathanjandrew, @fudgehair

AMERICAN CREW TAKES CARE OF MEN. American Crew, the everyday partner of men, offers a line of innovative and efficient skincare products for hair, body, shaving and beard care. Exclusively available at hairdressers.

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IN SHOP

MOSER GENIO PRO FADING EDITION The professional clipper Moser Genio Pro Fading Edition has an innovative cutting blade with an extremely flat angle, which is very suitable for fading. Thanks to the ultra-detailed integrated adjustment option from 0.5 – 2 millimeters, visible on the blade, masterful fades and super-precise short-style transitions can be created easily. With a powerful engine, constant cutting power, ergonomic design and first-class quality made in Germany.

Never run out of power again! Two easily removable batteries included for endless cordless operation. More information www.moserpro.com

BABYLISSPRO 4RTISTS METAL CLIPPER SKELETONFX - FX7870BKE The professional metal outlining trimmer SKELETONFX – FX7870BKE by BaBylissPRO® is a professional precision trimmer with zero gap adjustment. Specially developed with absolute precision in mind because barbers and hairdressers need to have a perfect visibility when they are doing detailed work, close trimming, hair design, hair tattoos & precision cuts. More information www.babylisspro.eu 75

GROOMING

DEPOT NO. 905 EAU DE PARFUM DEPOT introduces eau de parfum NO. 905 in no less than 7 fragrances: Classic Cologne, White Cedar, Fresh Black Pepper, Oriental Soul, Mystic Amber, Dark Tea en Original Oud. The fragrances are also available as eau de toilette, DEPOT NO. 904. DEPOT NO. 905 MYSTIC AMBER is an amber, floral and oriental fragrance. Head notes of bergamot blend with heart notes of ylang-ylang, coriander, opoponax and myrrh, to reach the base notes of grey amber, labdanum, vanilla, tonka flowers and sandalwood. More information www.depotmaletools.com

FUDGE PROFESSIONAL MATTE HED MOULDABLE Flexible, medium hold and long-lasting matte finish in a lightweight formula, ideal for finer hair types. The unique clay cream texture smooths easily through hair and wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t weigh it down. Creating texture and definition. Enhanced with a climate-control shield to provide all day humidity protection. More information www.fudgeprofessional.com

AMERICAN CREW® LATHER SHAVE CREAM

Use OSMO’s Beard Complex to keep beards looking slick. A conditioning oil designed to restore wayward beards, skin, and hair back to their manly prime. Deeply nourishing the beard and skin, the perfect two in one.

GROOMING

OSMO BEARD COMPLEX

More information www.osmo.uk.com

American Crew® introduces the new Lather Shave Cream, an essential tool for barbers and men for a classic and smooth shave. The Lather Shave Cream joins the shaving and beard range of American Crew, focusing on the classic shaving experience with shaving bowl and brush. Formulated with moisturizing ingredients, the Lather Shave Cream creates a smooth, even thick, rich foam that helps to soften and lift the beard hairs to make the shaving easier. The formula helps to protect the skin from irritation and razor burn, leaving the skin soft and moisturized. More information www.americancrew.com

DON DRAPER AFTER SHAVE BLUE

After shave with a fresh, herbal lavender scent on a woody base with tones of fern. Invigorates, cools and refreshes the skin after shaving. More information www.pomadeshop.com 77

LIFESTYLE 78

LES DEUX FRÈRES

Shirt Matinique Trostol Denim Dark Navy

Jeans Bleu de Genes Vinci N15 blue night jeans

Laptop bag Castelijn & Beerens Echo 15,6” laptop bag RFID Yellow

Vest QB 24 Bottoni

Driver Cap Stetson Hatteras

Miniwallet Secrid Crisple Amber

Tie Les Deux Frères Silk Slim Tie

Shoes Timberland Stormbucks Chelsea Nubuck Dark Brown

Socks Alfredo Gonzales Pencil Classics

Bracelet Frank 1967 More information www.lesdeuxfreres.nl

INTERV IEW

Eva Suárez crosses new frontiers in her quest to perfect her barbering skills and gain life experiences. With 20 years’ experience under her belt, she wants to keep growing and developing both personally and professionally. And she never lets being a woman hold her back from fulfilling her dreams. Originally from Spain, Eva has gained international experience as a barber working in Oslo and, most recently, Hong Kong. Her work also has not gone unnoticed

BARBER BABE EVA SUÁREZ

I think it’s important to start from the bottom up

on the world stage, picking up second place in the International Barber Awards 2018 and second prize in the BarberSociety Battle 2019 in the ‘cleanest fade’ category. BarberSociety magazine met up with Eva Suarez virtually to learn more about her background, aspirations and vision for the future. 79

Why did you become a barber? “I started working as a hairdresser 20 years ago, but even as a child I was always interested in hairdressing and used to fix the hair of my mother’s friends. Eventually I opened my own hair salon and had a lot of female and male clients.” She then came to a crossroads in her career and made a choice that would change her life. Eva explains: “I’ve always had a special affinity with barbering. It was something I wanted to do full-time. So I took the leap by closing my hair salon and pursuing a career in barbering.” Eva says this evolution from hairdressing into barbering was inevitable and natural. “I’ve always been passionate about everything related to art, whether it be drawing pictures or hairdressing. That’s why becoming a barber was simply an evolution of myself.” Learning the tricks of the trade Eva attended hairdressing college in Spain while she was working as a shampoo assistant at a local salon. She’s convinced that this hands-on training alongside formal college training is crucially important. “I think it’s important to start from the bottom up in order to value every 80

detail of being a hairdresser or barber.” It’s also, in her view, important to find role models and mentors to help you along the way. “I was fortunate to have Lord Jack Knife as my mentor in Norway. Working with him was so inspiring and a big step towards achieving my goals. It definitely reaffirmed my decision to become a barber.” Doing a great job is what matters When asked if she has encountered any prejudices in her work as a woman, Eva says it’s been a mixed bag. “Travelling around the world, I’ve experienced different cultures and have consequently had clients with different mentalities. Sometimes they’ve treated me better because I’m a woman and other times they thought I couldn’t possibly know anything about men’s grooming because I’m a woman.” Does it matter to her? “Actually I don’t care because what matters is that I do a great job as a passionate and dedicated professional. And this often makes the doubters change their minds immediately and that really makes it all worthwhile!” Women take centre stage Eva won second prize at the

International Barber Awards 2018 and the first prize winner was also a woman. Does this mean women are now taking centre stage in the traditionally male-dominated world of barbering? Eva sees it as a positive development: “Fortunately, these days women can excel in jobs that used to be considered men’s jobs. And it’s the same way the other way around. It’s not a question of gender; it all comes down to being an excellent professional whether you’re a man or a woman.” Versatile skills set Eva won second prize in the BarberSociety Battle 2019 in the ‘cleanest fade’ category. When asked if she focuses on fades as a specialty, she says she thinks it’s important to master a wide range of techniques. “I want to be the best in each specialised area. This is because I believe a great haircut is the result of a set of diverse skills. You’ve got to master each technique to get a perfect result. So that’s why I focus on perfecting all my skills, rather than concentrating on one specific specialty.”

Running with the ball Several Hong Kong Premier League football players have Eva as their barber. How did she come into contact with these players and why do they choose her to cut their hair? “Well, it’s easy for them to contact me, because my boyfriend is a professional footballer player as well. So wherever he’s playing, I get the chance to cut the hair or trim the beards of his teammates. They give me the opportunity, but it’s up to me to keep them as clients. They also tell other players on different teams about me and that’s how I get more and more players as clients. It all comes down to word of mouth.” Showing excellence Eva performs on stage in Spain as part of the technical and creative team of the Skullmen brand. Does she enjoy participating in shows? “I really enjoy preparing for a show, creating the collection and imagining the show with my colleagues. And, of course, I love the show itself – the nerves, the adrenalin, the feeling of

Life experiences are key Spain, Oslo, Hong Kong – Eva’s career has crossed international frontiers and broken cultural barriers. When asked what drives her to pursue an international career, she replies: “I think working in other countries is fascinating and gives me the opportunity to really understand how to work with all different kinds of hair. I feel so fortunate to have been able to travel and explore different places. It gives me the chance to meet great professionals in the industry and to exchange knowledge. Life experiences are what really make you grow and learn.” Eva sees learning as the key to happiness both personally and professionally. “My main ambition is to always keep learning my whole life. I’m convinced that being an ‘eternal learner’ is the way of wisdom.”

being alive – there’s nothing like it. It’s also a great way to recharge your motivation and to meet colleagues in the industry. I’ve made a lot of good friends at events.”

grey hair or highlights for a lighter colour. But these days men’s hair colouring goes much further. Colouring can stand out and is intended to enhance the haircut.”

True colours Does she have experience with men’s hair colouring? And does she see it as a trend? “I’ve seen a growing demand for men’s hair colouring throughout my career. It used to be done more discretely, with men asking for a natural colour to conceal

Staying positive amid the pandemic When asked how she has experienced the coronavirus pandemic, Eva replies: “These have been very difficult times for everyone and there is still a great deal of uncertainty going forward. It’s a new situation 81

When you really want something with all your heart, nothing can stop you from achieving it. for everyone. What’s clear is that our industry is so important. People genuinely missed their hairdressers and barbers during the lockdown. I also think that the best ideas are born during a crisis. I’ve seen people reinventing themselves and creating wonderful things during this pandemic. It’s amazing.” Looking to the future Eva looks to the future with enthusiasm. “I’m really proud of 82

my career so far. It’s been intense and I’ve been able to meet so many people and experience so many different places. I now want to continue on that path, growing as a professional day by day.” She says that having the freedom to choose and daring to leave your comfort zone make all the difference. “There was a time in my life when it seemed like I had a great life, but I didn’t have what is most important to me: the freedom

to choose. I felt stagnant and I wasn’t happy. That’s why I decided to end that stage and start owning my life. When you really want something with all your heart, nothing can stop you from achieving it. It’s hard to step out of your comfort zone, but it’s the only way to grow and discover new opportunities!”

BARBERS SAVE LIVES

B AC KG R O U N D

With Movember just around the corner, men’s health is a topic of attention and discussion. ‘The Lions Barber Collective’ charity is committed to raising awareness of men’s mental health and its work and mission are now more important than ever. It is an initiative founded in 2015 by well-known British barber & educator Tom Chapman. The sole purpose is to turn barbershops into safe spaces for men to use the intimate environment to open up about their mental health and lift a burden.

BarberTalk Suicide is the biggest killer of men under the age of 45. Tom Chapman: “In the barbershop you will get in close contact with many men and always make a chat. We, as barbers, can therefore contribute by signaling someone going through a difficult period.” Tom has developed a BarberTalk training to equip barbers with the tools to listen, recognize and signpost their clients and provide safe spaces for men to open up and offload. So far, the Lions Barber Collective has saved the lives of men by preventing suicide and offering support to both clients and barbers alike.

Prince William (Duke of Cambridge) with members of The Lions Barber Collective to discuss the work that the charity do and how to push conversations about mental health into the mainstream.

New Lions With a hugely growing demand for The Lions Barber Collective, and worldwide media success, Tom and his colleagues began to look for ambassadors that would help grow awareness and support with fundraising. Tom explains: 83

THE LIONS BARBER COLLECTIVE “With more lions in the pride we are able to reach more people and save another life. Never forgetting that together we’re stronger.” The list of ambassadors, national and international, includes both well-known industry names and barbers they have not been in the media before, but have an affiliation with The Lions. All of the ambassadors have been impacted by mental health throughout their lives, and are eagerly excited to begin as official ambassadors.

Tom: “The growth we have experienced in the last year has been astonishing. The passion and drive from the industry has really blown me away, barbers have realized how privileged we are and how important our role is within our communities.

The barbers who have joined the pride as our first ambassadors have either shown outstanding support, had personal experience with mental health/ suicide and given a lot of time and energy to the cause already. It is a huge pleasure to have them on board making us even stronger.” Tom Chapman @tomchapman_hair More information www.thelionsbarbercollective.com

Be part of the pride If you want to be part of the pride you can head to the website and complete the ‘BarberTalk Lite’ training for free to get your certificate and placement on the Lion’s map. Check the informative BarberTalk Online training, it takes only 20 minutes: www.lionsbarbercollective.com/ barbertalk-lite Find other Lions If you would like to know which barbers in what countries have completed this training, check out: www.thelionsbarbercollective.com/ find-locate-a-lion/ 84

We don’t just cut hair, we cut hair and save lives

I’m honoured to be an official ambassador for the Lions Barber Collective during this pivotal era when issues regarding mental health and mental awareness are at the forefront of people’s agenda. Suicide is the biggest killer in young people and it affects everybody including myself my friends and my clients. The Lions Barbers Collective means a lot to me because it’s gives me a platform to listen and support people in their struggle and help build stronger relationships with my clients so they feel safe confiding in me. We don’t just cut hair, we cut hair and save lives. Connor Evans – Coventry @connorevanshair

I have been asked in interviews why I am part of the Lions Barber Collective? Many reasons. The collective has introduced me to people I am proud to call friends, when friends have a common goal, passion and drive the results are going to be vast. As a collective the results have been fantastic. The Hair industry is amazing and if we all work together we can achieve amazing things. The seminars I have done with the lions have been great fun and helped people. It’s our duty to make people to feel great as well as look good. There are many hashtags associated with mental health. The one I truly believe is #togetherwearestronger! Dan Davies - London @pallmallbarbers_paddington

I joined the lions because I think it is so important to end the stigma around male mental health. I want to show men that you don’t have to be afraid and that they aren’t alone. I’m living proof, but this is bigger than me. A mental health disorder does not define you. Tommie Mcguckin – Scotland @tommie_hardgrind

READ THIS NOW!

GAME OVER!

C O L U M N C H R I S FO S T E R

6 HACKS FOR UNDERSTANDING AND WINNING THE ORGANIC FACEBOOK GAME… Years ago, I remember a time when I would see so many barbers building what looked like a huge online business through Facebook and Instagram. I too was trying to promote my work through social media; I would sit in front of the computer and post random pictures of my haircuts from my personal profile account. I was spending hours every single night trying to figure this stuff out. How was it that some barbers were getting huge traction, engagement and following, and I was just left frustrated?

The algorithm wants you to be the perfect partygoer

At that time I did not understand what I know now... I actually did not know that there was a strategy called Organic Facebook Marketing. Fast-forward a few years to today in 2020…You need to know that there is an organic Facebook Game, which is very real. Furthermore, paying for Ads is not the only way to generate traffic. But you need to understand that the Facebook field game is dynamic and ever-changing hence we have to keep up to speed on the rules.

Facebook frustrations!!!

The FB algorithm It’s the same as being a War General entering the battlefield. Understanding the fields you are entering is essential. With FB,

remember the algorithm is behind it, not a person! If you end up in FB jail, it is the algorithm that puts you there not a person! You probably triggered it by either something you did or something you wrote in your message. I always thought that when I posted a cool haircut, all my FB friends would eventually see the content, however, this is simply not true! I want you to think of every social media platform like a party, the host of that party, in this case, is Facebook. The algorithms watch how you interact in the party and will reward you if you are a cool partygoer spending time getting to know the crowd, interacting and being just generally cool. For being that cool friendly person they may bump you up to VIP status. The point to remember is that the algorithm loves your interaction and it wants you to be the perfect partygoer. It won’t reward you if you just post and go. You will not be able to gain traction with new traffic to your content. Interaction So, how to give yourself a fighting chance to beat the algorithm and keep your content seen and current? The more you comment and engage with your audience the bigger reach you will get with your post. When you comment, FB gives you many options starting with like! Then comes hearts etc. If you give a ‘Like’ – this has no real value to FB. Instead, use ‘Hearts’ and the ‘Care’ emoji. It is more relevant! When you reply to comments on your posts, don’t comment back to all of them at once. Leave a few comments to answer at a later time. This will help to maintain and keep that particular post alive.

Use the Heart and the Care emoji. It is more relevant! If you have 1000 friends in your list but you never have commented on their posts, your content will have very limited reach to your friends when you post. This is the downside of the organic game – it takes a lot of time and you need to do it daily and constantly! This is the reason why you might not be getting the same results as someone you are following - you simply cannot keep up! Especially, if someone already has built and developed aknow- like - and trust factor with their audience. You need to give yourself time to build. Nothing valuable is built overnight! The 6 hacks If you have 1000 friends but most of them are actually your old school friends that you haven’t heard from in the last 10 years or randomly add people just to have a large friends list this is what you need to know: Having people who are not interested in your content and what you have to say are doing you double damage. As you only have 5000 friend spots make sure you choose wisely 1

When your friends list 2 doesn’t engage with your post they are telling the FB algorithm your stuff is not relevant or interesting. FB algorithm stops and limits the reach of your posts to other friends. This is why you should never buy follows!

FB shows your post to the first 20 - 25 people and if they engage they show it to more people. 3

Having relevant people who are interested in what you have to say is important. So if people in your friend list do not comment and engage they are actually doing you more harm than good. Updating your list, adding relevant people and deleting is essential to growing your list. 4

Don’t post multiple times. Only post twice per day at least 8 – 9 hours in between. 5

Spend 20 – 30 minutes engaging with others prior to you posting anything; this will warm the FB algorithm. 6

One last thing to remember is, this hack strategy is the same for Instagram! There is no doubt that social media is vital for building a profile in the hair industry that brings energy and attention to your work. I really hope these strategies will help you to build a career that you’re proud of. If you would like more content like this subscribe to my Profit Profile Podcast on Apple podcast or anywhere you listen to podcasts. Learn more about building your influence in the hair industry by visiting www.eliteprofileacademy.com Chris Foster – the profile guy! 87

A L L I N T H E FA M I LY

BORN INTO THE BUSINESS I started when I was 16 and have been in the business for 18 years

INTERVIEW WITH ANTHONY KOMODIKIS

Anthony Komodikis comes from a long line of barbers. His grandmother and mother both worked in the industry. He also has a connection to barbering through his wife, whose grandfather was a barber. So barbering is in his DNA and he would love to pass on the tradition to his newborn son Leo. Anthony is the owner of House of Thrix that is prestigiously located on Broad Street in the heart of The City of London financial district. BarberSociety Magazine met with Anthony virtually to talk about his family’s history in barbering, changes in the industry and his vision and mission for House of Thrix.

Cyprus to London Barbering features prominently in Anthony’s family tree. “All of my family have always done both men’s and women’s hair. It started with my grandmother in Cyprus. She worked for the go-to luxury salon in Nicosia before moving to London in the 1950s. She couldn’t transfer into another salon or barber shop in Britain, so she ended up leaving the industry. My mum left school early to start training as a hairdresser and barber. So it’s a strange coincidence that my grandmother left the field because she found it difficult in London, partly because she didn’t speak much English, while my mother left school early and went straight into the industry to begin training as a hairdresser at the City of London business college.” Anthony: “Another coincidence: my wife’s grandfather was a barber too. He also started in Cyprus and came to London, but he found work and was successful, working as a barber in the Barracks in Chelsea. He had a barbershop on Brick Lane in London’s East End, which is now a really sought-after location.” A natural step Anthony grew up in his mother’s salon. He loved being in the salon and knew as a youngster that one day he would follow in his

mother’s footsteps. “Before I left secondary school, I knew I wanted to go into the industry. Growing up my mum was always doing both men’s and women’s hair. I remember coming home from school and she’d be there doing someone’s hair. She also had a salon. I’d leave secondary school and go straight to the salon rather than going home. It was clear as day: my older brother wanted to go straight home after school, while I wanted to go straight to the salon and stay until it closed. I didn’t want to leave; I loved the salon.” He started learning the ropes during that period: “When I was in junior school, I’d go to my mum’s salon and actively get involved. I would tiptoe behind the basins to try to reach and wash people’s hair. I really enjoyed it. The ironic thing is that when you become a junior in a salon, the one thing you hate is washing people’s hair all the time. At that point I was just so excited to do anything with hair and to get involved. I’d stay there washing hair, sweeping up, you name it - it was a joy.” Falling in love with the craft What made Anthony want to enter the barbering profession? “Two things: the social aspect and unique atmosphere of a barbershop and a passion for hair styling. I loved being in

I would tiptoe behind the basins to wash people’s hair My mother’s hairdressing certificate

The barbershop on Brick Lane

My wife’s grandfather who had a barbershop on Brick Lane

a barbershop and was really into hair. I liked doing my hair, trying new styles and, even back then, I was fascinated by the artistry of it and this dovetailed with my love of imagery and fashion. I always had cool styles at school - highlights, every colour imaginable. I’ve got a picture of me from that period with the worst hair style ever. I had a big blonde patch on the front of my head!” When asked if he felt pressured to go into barbering, Anthony replies: “I felt a little pressure to not go into the industry from my dad’s side. I was good at school, but my focus academically wasn’t there. My dad wanted me to follow his example academically. Whereas my mum didn’t put any pressure on me to become a hairdresser. She’d say: Do whatever makes you happy. But secretly she was over the moon that I was going into the business. I made the decision before I left school.” 90

Building a career Anthony honed his skills at his mother’s salon and has now been in the business for almost two decades: “I started when I was 16 and have been in the barbering business for 18 years. I’ve managed other barbershops for many years. I opened House of Thrix in September 2019, six months before Covid-19. The location is excellent because we’re so close to Liverpool Street Station in central London. I believe having a shop in the city is the best thing ever, I really lucked out to get it. But central London has been hit particularly hard by the pandemic because everyone is still working from home and nobody is back at the office. Not many people actually live in this part of London, so we’re dependent on commuters coming into the city.” Changing with the generations What changes has Anthony seen in the industry over the years? “I’ve noticed something striking: the barbering profession has changed across three generations from being a respected profession to a not-so-respected profession to now becoming a more

respected profession again. When my grandmother started it was respected, after that, later in my mother’s career, it became very menial and not very respected, and now it has become respected again.” He’s also seen the barber’s role in the community changing. “The children of my wife’s grandfather have told me that as a barber he was the guy that people would go to ask him about sex, girls and that kind of thing and he was the only guy to tell them about that stuff because it was a bit taboo back then. He could tell them about most things in life. I think that has decreased from generation to generation. We still have that aspect, but just to a lesser degree.” Looking beyond the coronavirus crisis Even though these are tough times, Anthony is proud of House of Thrix and is confident that better days lie ahead for the company. “We have two people on staff. Everyone is fully employed by the company. That’s on purpose to reflect the kind of brand we want to be. Our mission is just as much about

the barbers and the industry as it is about hair and the clients. Barbering is statistically one of the worst paid industries in the UK. So that’s why I wanted to create a successful business where our barbers gain self-worth and a secure future. It’s always about the staff first.” He looks beyond the current crisis to the future. “We will survive. We’ll figure out a way. Whatever happens, House of Thrix is going to be somewhere. There’s always a light at the end of the tunnel. This is a very difficult patch for us, but it’s not going to be forever. So if we can survive the wave, we’ll come back and truly start growing the business. I want it to be a barbershop where the barbers are really well looked after and the quality and respect they give to clients is second to none.” Fourth generation in the wings Anthony’s son Leo is just a few weeks old. Would he like him to follow in his footsteps? “I’d love him to, but I would never push him to. But if he did to enter the profession, I would be so happy. It would be great if we could work together and perhaps open

another shop. I think he could have a very joyous and successful life as a barber. It would be one of the best jobs for him, he’ll be happy.” We are family Anthony is convinced that barbers working together is the best way to safeguard the barbering industry for generations to come. “Support each other as a community. Don’t see each other as competition, we can help each other and if we all help each other the industry can grow and be more respected.”

Useful information There are 3 working stations. By standard, most people will book the 45 min haircut appointment wash and finish, on the menu it is called ‘The Cut’. There are two levels: £58 or £52. Open 5 days a week from 8:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. (pre Covid), closed on Saturday and Sunday. Scheduled appointments (the majority) and walk-ins (if available). Favourite brands: Hanz De Fuko and Anthony Skincare. Hous of Thrix @Hackett London 54 Old Broad Street, London www.houseofthrix.com 91