STUDENT MANUAL
PHILOSOPHY
THE ART OF BARBERING IS A COMPLETE PACKAGE THAT INVOLVES TECHNICAL CUTTING SKILLS, CUSTOMER SERVICE AND A UNIQUE MINDSET. IT IS OFTEN THE CASE THAT ONE OF THESE FUNDAMENTALS IS LOST DURING THE PROCESS OF BECOMING A BARBER. AT BSW, WE COMBINE ALL OF THESE ASPECTS TOGETHER TO TEACH, DEVELOP AND CREATE INDIVIDUALS WHO DELIVER A TRUE BARBERING EXPERIENCE TO THEIR CUSTOMERS.
WE OFFER ASPIRING BARBERS AN INSIGHTFUL LEARNING ENVIRONMENT TO REFINE THEIR SKILLS AND MASTER THE ART OF BARBERING. OUR MISSION IS TO BRING TRUE MASTERY, EXCELLENCE AND PROFESSIONALISM BACK TO THE BARBERING INDUSTRY. THIS BOOKLET WILL PROVIDE YOU WITH THE KNOWLEDGE NEEDED TO UNDERSTAND THE BSW METHODS USED WHEN CREATING A RANGE OF HAIRCUTS. THE STEP-BY-STEP GUIDES ARE LAID OUT IN A SIMPLE AND EASY TO FOLLOW FORMAT TO ELEVATE YOUR LEARNING PROCESS.
STEP-BY-STEP HAIRCUTS
1B. LAYERS - P.28 - P.36 LONG HAIR 1.
1A. ONE LENGTH - P.25 - P.28
2. SHORT HAIR
2A. CLIPPER CUTS - P.37 - P.43
2B. 0.5 FADE - P.44 - P.51
2C. SKINFADE - P.52 - P. 60
3. FACIAL HAIR
3A. BEARD TRIMS - P.61 - P.62 P.25 -P.62
STEP-BY-STEPS
LONG HAIR
ONE LENGTH HAIRCUT
STEP 1: CENTRE PARTING
ENSURE THE HAIR IS EVENLY WET THROUGHOUT. SECTION THE HAIR THROUGH THE CENTRE FROM THE FRONT OF THE HAIRLINE (MIDDLE OF NOSE AS A GUIDE) ALL THE WAY TO THE NAPE OF THE NECK. USE THE TIP OF THE COMB AT A 30 DEGREE ANGLE TO CREATE A CLEAN AND EVEN SECTION. COMB EACH SIDE AWAY FROM THE CENTRE PARTING, OVER THE SHOULDERS TOWARDS THE FACE.
A ONE LENGTH HAIRCUT IS ACHIEVED BY CUTTING THE HAIR TO THE SAME PERIMETER LENGTH FROM THE NATURAL FALL. THE NATURAL FALL REFERS TO THE NATURAL POSITION OF THE HAIR. 0 DEGREE OF ELEVATION
STEP 2: CREATE THE FIRST CUTTING SECTION
TILT THE HEAD DOWN SLIGHTLY AND USE THE TIP OF THE COMB AT 30 DEGREES TO CREATE A CLEAN SECTION FROM THE CENTRE TO THE MASTOID BONE. USE YOUR SECTION CLIPS TO HOLD THE HAIR IN PLACE ABOVE AND AWAY FROM YOUR SECTION. THE DIAGRAMS BELOW SHOW THE SECTIONS TAKEN AS YOU MOVE UP THE HEAD.
STEP 3: CUT THE GUIDE - (1) SQUARE SHAPE
TILT THE HEAD DOWN FORWARD SLIGHTLY MORE. CUT THE FIRST SECTION WHICH WILL BE THE GUIDE YOU FOLLOW FOR THE REMAINDER OF THE HAIRCUT. WHEN COMBING THROUGH THE HAIR FROM THE ROOTS TO ENDS, BRING THE FINGERS AND COMB DOWN TOGETHER IN UNISON. TO CREATE THE SQUARE SHAPE, STAND DIRECTLY BEHIND THE CLIENT WHILST CUTTING THE BACK AND DO NOT MOVE YOUR POSITION AROUND THE HEAD. KEEP THE HAIR CLOSE TO THE BODY OF THE CLIENT AND DO NOT PULL THE HAIR TOWARDS YOU - THIS WILL CREATE AN UNEVEN LINE. CUT WHERE THE TENSION IS STRONG BETWEEN YOUR FINGERS, FROM FINGER TIP TO SECOND KNUCKLE AND KEEP YOUR FINGERS HORIZONTALLY STRAIGHT.
STEP 3: CUT THE GUIDE - (2) ROUND SHAPE
KEEP THE HEAD UPRIGHT THIS TIME AND THE CHIN PARALELL TO THE FLOOR. CUT YOUR FIRST SECTION WHICH WILL BE THE GUIDE FOR THE REMAINDER OF THE HAIRCUT. WHEN COMBING THROUGH THE HAIR FROM ROOTS TO THE ENDS, BRING THE FINGERS DOWN TOGETHER IN UNISON. TO CREATE A ROUND SHAPE, MOVE YOUR BODY AROUND THE BACK OF THE CLIENT WHILST CUTTING EACH SECTION. STAND BEHIND THE CLIENT TO START. TAKE SMALL SIDE STEPS TO THE LEFT WHEN CUTTING THE LEFT SIDE AND THE SAME ON THE RIGHT SIDE. AS BEFORE, KEEP THE HAIR CLOSE TO THE BODY AND DO NOT PULL THE HAIR TOWARDS YOU - THIS WILL CREATE A UNEVEN LINE. CUT WHERE TENSION IS STRONGEST BETWEEN YOUR FINGERS, FROM FINGER TIP TO SECOND KNUCKLE AND KEEP YOUR FINGERS HORIZONTALLY STRAIGHT.
STEP 4: CUT THE BACK
REPEAT STEP 3 MOVING UP TO THE APEX. THIS SHOULD TAKE ON AVERAGE 3-5 SECTIONS TO WORK FROM THE OCCIPITAL BONE UP TO THE APEX. WHEN PULLING EACH SECTION DOWN YOU WILL SEE A GUIDE LYING BEHIND FROM THE PREVIOUS SECTION. CUT INLINE ALONG THAT GUIDE AND ONCE YOU HAVE REACHED THE APEX YOU CAN BRUSH ALL THE HAIR ON THE HEAD BACK AND MAKE YOUR FINAL CUT - THE BACK WILL BE COMPLETE. ENSURE YOU CHECK BOTH SIDES HAVE BEEN CUT BALANCED BEFORE YOU PROCEED.
STEP 5: MOVE TO THE SIDES
ENSURE THE HEAD IS HELD UPRIGHT FOR BOTH THE SQUARE AND ROUND SHAPES, WITH THE CHIN PARALLEL TO THE FLOOR. EACH SIDE WILL BE DIVIDED INTO ROUGHLY 4 HORIZONTAL SECTIONS, FROM THE BOTTOM WORKING UP TO THE CENTRE OF THE TOP OF THE HEAD. STAND EITHER SIDE OF THE HEAD AND BEGIN AT THE BOTTOM HAIRLINE. CREATE A CLEAN SECTION WITH THE TIP OF THE COMB AT 30 DEGREES. TAKE A SMALL SLIVER OF HAIR FROM BEHIND THE EAR TO USE AS A GUIDE FOR THE SIDES. PULL THE SECTION FROM THE SIDE DOWN UNTIL YOU SEE THE GUIDE FROM THE BACK AND CUT ALONG THIS USING THE SAME METHOD AS WHEN CUTTING THE BACK. RIGHT-HANDED PEOPLE WILL CUT TOWARDS THE FACE WHEN STANDING ON THE LEFT AND WILL CUT TOWARDS THE BACK WHEN STANDING ON THE RIGHT. ONCE COMPLETED, PULL THE NEXT SECTION DOWN AND YOU WILL SEE THE GUIDE LYING UNDERNEATH/BEHIND FROM THE PREVIOUS SECTION.
STEP 6: CUT THE OTHER SIDE
REPEAT THIS PROCESS ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE HEAD TO COMPLETE THE HAIRCUT. ENSURE THE HEAD IS HELD UPRIGHT, WITH THE CHIN PARALLEL TO THE FLOOR. AFTER COMPLETING THE HAIRCUT, CHECK FOR AN EVEN BALANCE ON BOTH SIDES OF THE HEAD.
FULL SCISSOR LAYERING
THIS IS HAIRCUT COMPLETED WITH SCISSORS AND OUR PRIMARY GOAL IS TO CREATE LAYERS. IF THE HAIR FALLS PAST THE JAW LINE, WE USE AN OVERHAND METHOD. IF THE HAIR IS ABOVE THE JAW LINE WE USE AN UNDERHAND METHOD.
STEP 1: HORSE-SHOE SECTION
ENSURE THE HAIR IS WET THROUGHOUT EVENLY. STARTING AT THE RECESSION POINT, SEPARATE THE TOP OF THE HAIR FROM THE SIDES. COMB THE HAIR ON THE SIDES DOWN VERTICALLY AND THE HAIR ON THE TOP OVER THE HEAD. PICK YOUR LENGTH BY PUTTING IN YOUR BLOCK GRADUATION (HORIZONTAL SECTION AT THE TOP OF THE SECTION)
STEP 2: LAYERING THE SIDES
PICK UP THE FIRST SECTION FROM THE FRONT HAIRLINE. PULL STRAIGHT OUT AND FIND YOUR GUIDE AT THE TOP FROM YOUR BLOCK GRADUATION. HOLD YOUR FINGERS VERTICALLY STRAIGHT DOWN (OVERHAND METHOD) OR UP (UNDERHAND METHOD) . WHERE THE TENSION IS THE TIGHTEST, CUT ALONG THE FINGERS STRAIGHT. DO NOT CUT PAST THE SECOND KNUCKLE. THE FINGERS SHOULD BE POINT DOWNWARDS TOWARD THE FLOOR (OVERHAND METHOD) OR UPWARDS TOWARDS THE CEILING/ CONTINUE LAYERING THE FIRST SIDE IN SECTIONS MOVING TOWARDS THE BACK OF THE HEAD. CROSS CHECK YOUR HAIRCUT AND REPEAT THESE STEPS UNTIL YOUR EACH THE OTHER SIDE OF THE HEAD.
STEP 3: SECTION THE PROFILE LINE
ENSURE THE HAIR IS EVENLY WET THROUGHOUT. SEPARATE THE FRONT AND BACK OF THE HEAD BY SECTIONING FROM THE APEX TO EACH MASTOID BONE. COMB THE FRONT TOWARDS THE FACE AND THE BACK TOWARDS THE OCCIPITAL BONE. NOW CREATE THE PROFILE LINE BY STANDING BEHIND THE CUSTOMER. USE THE TIP OF THE COMB AT 30 DEGREES TO SECTION OFF-CENTRE LEFT FROM THE APEX TO THE FRONT OF THE HAIRLINE. REPEAT THIS PROCESS TO OFF-CENTRE RIGHT. YOU SHOULD BE LEFT WITH A COMB WIDTH SECTION RUNNING THROUGHOUT THE CENTRE OF THE HEAD - THIS IS THE PROFILE LINE.
STEP 4: LAYER THE TOP
FOLLOW THE GUIDE FROM THE CREATED PROFILE LINE AND CUT THE TOP INTO THE MATCHING SHAPE YOU CREATED FROM YOUR GRADUATION.. START FROM THE FRONT HAIRLINE GOING BACK.
STAND TO THE RIGHT OF THE CUSTOMER AND COMB THE HAIR DOWN. CREATE THE FIRST COMB WIDTH SECTION, STARTING FROM THE APEX AND MOVING TOWARDS THE FRONT. (ON SHORTER HAIR WE START AT THE FRONT HAIRLINE AND MOVE BACKWARDS TO THE APEX) COMB THE REMAINDER OF THE HAIR TOWARDS THE FRONT OF THE HEAD. MOVE TO THE BACK OF THE CLIENT AND PINCH TO PICK UP THE FIRST PART OF THE SECTION STARTING FROM THE TOP. COMB THE HAIR DIRECTLY STRAIGHT UP, WITH TIGHT AND EVEN TENSION. ENSURE YOUR FINGERS ARE HORIZONTALLY STRAIGHT WHEN HOLDING THE HAIR TO BUILD A SQUARE SHAPE. CUT ALONG THE FINGERS WITH TIGHT TENSION FOLLOWING THE GUIDE FROM THE PROFILE LINE. DO NOT CUT PAST THE SECOND KNUCKLE OR ATTEMPT TO CUT ANY HAIR THAT FALLS OUT OF YOUR FINGERS. PINCH, COMB AND CUT THE HAIR AS YOU FOLLOW THESE SECTIONS TOWARDS THE FACE UNTIL THE FRONT HAIRLINE IS REACHED. REPEAT ON THE LEFT.
STEP 5: EXTEND THE PROFILE LINE THROUGH THE BACK
EXTEND THE ORIGINAL PROFILE LINE FROM THE CENTRE OF THE TOP OF THE HEAD DOWN THROUGH THE BACK OF THE HEAD AND NAPE OF THE NECK. THIS SHOULD BE A COMB'S WIDTH. CONTINUE THE SQUARE SHAPE BY CULLING THE HAIR WITH TENSION, STRAIGHT UP. WITH EVERY NEW SECTION, ONLY CUT WHAT MATCHES YOUR ORIGINAL GUIDE AT THE APEX. IF THE HAIR DOESNT REACH, DO NOT CUT IT. YOU CAN IGNORE THE HAIR BELOW THE OCCIPITAL BONE AS THIS IS COVERED LATER IN THE HAIRCUT. ONCE COMPLETED, COMB THE PROFILE LINE INTO THE BACK RIGHT PANEL.
STEP 6: CUT BACK WORKING IN PIZZA SLICES
USE THE PROFILE LINE TO CREATE THE FIRST SECTION STARTING FROM THE APEX DOWN THE CENTRE OF THE BACK OF THE HEAD. THE APEX IS THE PIVOTAL POINT FOR ALL SECTIONS AT THE BACK, AS THIS WILL CONTAIN THE TRUE GUIDE. WORK IN SECTIONS FROM THE CENTRE PROFILE AND MOVE OUT TO CONNECT THE SIDES IN PIZZA SHAPED SECTIONS. MAKE SURE WITH EVERY NEW SECTION YOU TAKE A SMALL STEP MOVING AWAY FROM THE PREVIOUSLY CUT SECTION. AS YOU CONTINUE AROUND THE HEAD, COMBINE EACH PREVIOUS SECTION WITH THE NEXT SECTION TO USE AS YOUR GUIDE. PINCH, COMB AND CUT EACH SECTION, MIRRORING THE HEAD SHAPE AND MAINTAINING EQUAL DISTANCE FROM THE SCALP. REPEAT ON THE LEFT.
STEP 8: ADJUST THE FRINGE
STEP 7: CONNECT THE SIDES TO THE TOP
THE LONGER HAIR ON TOP OF THE HEAD WILL CREATE SOME EXCESS OVERHANG ON THE BACK AND SIDES. IF THIS EXCESS HAIR PROTRUDES OUT OF THE FINGERS, THEN CONNECT THE HAIR ON TOP TO THE BACK AND SIDES. CUT THE OVERHANG SQUARE AT 90 DEGREE ANGLE CONNECTING IT WITH THE BACK AND SIDES.
WE MUST ALWAYS ADJUST THE LENGTH IN THE FRINGE TO FINISH THE TOP OF A HAIRCUT.
PULL DOWN SECTIONS OF HAIR FROM ONE SIDE OF THE FRINGE AND TRIM THE DESIRED LENGTH OF. FOLLOW THIS GUIDE TO THE OTHER SIDE TO CREATE A NEAT, UNIFORM SHAPE. BE CAREFUL NOT TO TAKE TOO MUCH OFF HERE AS IT WILL NEGATIVELY IMPACT THE LAYERING SHAPE ON TOP.
STEP 9: CROSS CHECK THE LAYERING SHAPE
CROSS CHECKING IS WHEN WE PICK UP THE HAIR THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION WE LAYERED IN TO CHECK THE LENGTHS HJAVE BEEN CUT EVENLY. BRUSH THE HAIR ALL THE WAY TO THE RIGHT HAND OF THE CUSTOMER AND STAND TO THE LEFT HAND SIDE.
PULL UP SECTIONS OF HAIR FROM ONE SIDE OF THE HEAD TO THE OTHER AND PULL UP TO SEE IF THE HAIR HAS BEEN CUT EVEN.
IF THE HAIR BECOMES UNCOMFORTABLE TO LAYER BY USING AN OVERHAND TECHNIQUE, SWITCH TO AN UNDERHAND TECHNIQUE. THIS IS OFTEN THE CASE IF THEY HAIR IS GOING TO BE CUT FAIRLY SHORT.
SOMETIMES, CLIENTS WANT THEIR HAIR LAYERED TO SHORTER LENGTHS ACCOMPANIED WITH CLIPPER & TRIMMER WORK AROUND THE BOTTOM.
IN THIS CASE, ADD ON THE STEPS IN THE NEXT FEW SLIDES...
STEP 9: POINT CUT OUTLINES (OPTIONAL)
STEP 10: CLIPPER OVER COMB OUTLINES
FOR A SOFTER AND MORE NATURAL LOOK, POINT CUT AROUND THE OUTLINES TO THE CUSTOMERS REQUIREMENTS. ENSURE THAT THE HAIR IS WET WHEN DOING THIS AND YOU CAN REFINE WHEN THE HAIR IS DRY. USE YOUR COMB TO PUSH THE HAIRLINE ON THE SKIN AND HOLD THE HAIR AND THEN CUT THE HAIR KEEPING THE SCISSOR BLADE FLAT AGAINST THE SKIN. ENSURE YOUR SCISSORS STAY UPRIGHT TO LOWER THE RISK OF CUTTING THE CLIENT. USE CAUTION WHEN CUTTING AROUND THE EAR.
CLIPPER OVER COMB THE BASE OF THE HAIRLINE WITH THE DETAILERS AND COMB. BEVEL THE COMB OUT AT A 30-40 DEGREE ANGLE TO CREATE A SOFT AND TAPERED FINISH AROUND THE NATURAL HAIRLINE.
STEP 11: TAPERING THE NECK
TAPER THE BOTTOM HAIRLINE STARTING WITH THE 2 GRADE FROM THE HAIRLINE JUST BELOW THE OCCIPITAL BONE. WORK DOWN AS MANY GRADES AS YOU NEED TO BLEND OUT THE HAIRLINE. YOUR HIGHEST GUARD MAY CHANGE DEPENDING ON THE LENGTH YOU HAVE CUT ON THE SIDES - AS A RULE, WE ADVICE BLENDING DOWN TO 2 GRADES LOWER THAN YOUR STARTING GRADE E.G 2 DOWN TO A 0.
STEP 12: OUTLINES
USE YOUR TRIMMER AND SELECTED COMB TO REFINE AND SHAPE THE CUSTOMER'S OUTLINES. START AT THE FRONT HAIRLINE AND THEN WORK BACK AROUND THE EAR. CONTINUE BEHIND THE EAR AND THEN INTO THE HAIRLINE AT THE BACK OF THE HEAD TO CREATE A WALKING STICK SHAPE - LOOK DOWN THE HAIRLINE HERE TO CREATE THE CORRECT SHAPE.
STEP 13: SCISSOR OVER COMB BLENDING
START TO SCISSOR OVER COMB THE HAIRLINE STARTING AT THE BOTTOM AND WORKING YOUR WAY UP THROUGH THE BACK AND SIDES. WORK IN COLUMNS, ALWAYS MOVING AGAINST THE HAIR GROWTH. THE COMB MUST MOVE SLOWLY AND THE SCISSORS MUST MOVE FAST IN ORDER TO CREATE A SMOOTH BLEND. AFTER EACH PASS UP THE HEAD, USE YOUR COMB TO RESET THE HAIR BACK INTO ITS NATURAL POSITION BY COMBING IT.
STEP 14: TEXTURISE, FINISH & STYLE
SEPARATE THE TOP OF THE HEAD INTO 3 COLUMNS TO ENSURE THAT YOU DO NOT OVER TEXTURISE THE SAME AREA. YOU CAN TEXTURISE FROM THE FRONT TO BACK OR BACK TO FRONT DEPENDING ON THE LENGTH OF THE HAIR. FOCUS ON REMOVING THE WEIGHT AS CLOSE TO THE ROOT AS POSSIBLE WITHOUT CHANGING YOUR CREATED LENGTH. WHEN THE HAIR IS SHORTER, PICK UP THE HAIR WITH THE COMB INSTEAD OF YOUR FINGERS. ONCE COMPLETE, CLEAN YOUR CLIENT, SHAVE THEIR NECK AND APPLY SOME STYLING PRODUCT
SHORT HAIR
THE CLIPPER CUT
STEP 1: HORSE-SHOE SECTION
ENSURE THE HAIR IS WET THROUGHOUT EVENLY. STARTING AT THE RECESSION POINT, SEPARATE THE TOP OF THE HAIR FROM THE SIDES. COMB THE HAIR ON THE SIDES DOWN VERTICALLY AND THE HAIR ON THE TOP OVER THE HEAD. PICK YOUR LENGTH BY PUTTING IN YOUR BLOCK GRADUATION.
STEP 2: CLIPPER WORK
START WITH ONE GRADES HIGHER THAN THE CLIENT'S DESIRED LENGTH TO REMOVE AS MUCH BULK AS POSSIBLE. THIS SETS THE CORRECT HEIGHT THAT YOU ARE TO TAKE YOUR CLIPPER WORK. IT ALSO GIVES YOU A CLEAN CANVAS TO WORK ON THROUGHOUT THE REST OF THE HAIRCUT. WORK IN COLUMNS AROUND THE HEAD. AT THE BASE OF EACH COLUMN, ENGAGE THE TEETH OF THE CLIPPER GUARD INTO THE HEAD BELOW THE BOTTOM HAIRLINE AND ANGLE UP INTO A SQUARE MOTION AS YOU COME UP THE HEAD. GLIDE THE CLIPPERS SQUARE OFF THE HEAD AT THE TEMPORAL BONE ON THE SIDES AND THE OCCIPITAL BONE ON THE BACK. THIS IS A VERY IMPORTANT STEP BECAUSE IT REMOVES THE WEIGHT READY FOR YOUR NEXT STEP. BE CAREFUL NOT TO GO ABOVE THE TEMPORAL BONE AND ROUND OFF INTO THE HEAD SHAPE. ONCE COMPLETE, REPEAT THIS ENTIRE PROCESS USING A HALF GRADE LOWER THAN THE INITAL CANVAS GRADE USED. FINALLY, REPEAT THIS WHOLE PROCESS UNTIL YOU'VE REACHED THE CLIENT'S DESIRED LENGTH. E.G. GRADE 3 (CANVAS GRADE), 2.5 & 2 (DESIRED LENGTH)
STEP 3: TAPERING THE NECK
FADE THE BOTTOM HAIRLINES STARTING WITH THE 1.5 FILLER GRADE (OPEN). FADE FROM THE BOTTOM HAIRLINE AT THE NAPE TO THE OCCIPITAL BONE. WORK DOWN AS MANY GRADES AS YOU NEED UNTIL THE HAIR IS BLENDED. THE SHORTEST GRADE YOU BLEND DOWN SHOULD BE 2 GRADES LOWER THAN THE CLIENT'S DESIRED LENGTH (TRUE GRADE).
STEP 4: TAPERING EDGES
THE GENERAL RULE HERE FOR TAPERING IS THAT IF THE GRADE IS 2 OR HIGHER, WE USE OUR TRIMMERS AND COMB TO TAPER THE EDGES - DIAGRAM (1). IF THE GRADE IS 2 OR LOWER, WE USE HALF A GRADE LOWER AND GO ROUND THE EDGES ON 'TWO-WHEELS' OF THE CLIPPER - DIAGRAM (2).
(1) ANGLE THE CLIPPER COMB AT 45 DEGREES AND THEN CUT THE HAIR THAT COMES THROUGHOUT THE BASE OF THE COMB. THE COMB'S TEETH CAN FACE UPWARDS, DOWNWARDS OR EVEN SIDEWAYS. FOR A CLOSER, TIGHTER TAPER AROUND THE OUTLINES, USE A CUTTING COMB.
(2) PUT A GRADE THAT IS HALF A LENGTH SHORTER THAN THE BASE GRADE AND ANGLE THE CLIPPER OUT AT 45 DEGREES AND GO ROUND THE OUTLINES ON TWO WHEELS OF THE CLIPPER.
STEP 5: OUTLINES
USE THE DETAILERS AND THE SELECTED COMB TO REFINE AND SHAPE THE OUTLINES. START AT THE FRONT HAIRLINES AND THEN WORK AROUND THE EAR. CONTINUE BEHIND THE EAR AND THEN INTO THE HAIRLINE AT THE BACK OF THE HEAD TO CREATEYOUR NECK SHAPE.
STEP 6: LAYER THE TOP
ENSURE THE HAIR IS WET EVENLY THROUGHOUT THE TOP. STAND BEHIND THE CLIENT AND CREATE THE PROFILE LINE. THEN MOVE TO THE SIDE AND CUT IN THE PROFILE LINE AS LEARNED PREVIOUSLY. FOLLOW THIS PROFILE LINE GUIDE AROUND THE HEAD CUTTING A ROUND OR SQUARE LAYER. START AT THE FRONT HAIRLINE AND MOVE TOWARDS THE BACK (APEX). AFTER CUTTING THE TOP, MOVE THE PROFILE LINE THROUGH TO THE CROWN AND SECTION INTO PIZZA SLICES TO CUT THE BACK.
DON'T FORGET TO CROSS CHECK THE TOP BEFORE YOU MOVE ON!
STEP 7: CONNECTING THE SIDES TO THE TOP
WHEN YOU CUT A SHORTER LENGTH ON THE SIDE COMPARED TO THE TOP, THERE WILL BE A NATURAL OVERHANG FROM THE TOP TO THE SIDES. WE CONNECT THE SCISSORWORK ON TOP TO THE CLIPPER-WORK ON TOP WHEN WET. CUT THE OVERHANG SQUARE AT 90 DEGREES, CONNECTING IT WTH THE BACK AND SIDES.
STEP 8: ADJUST THE FRINGE
WE MUST ALWAYS ADJUST THE LENGTH IN THE FRINGE TO FINISH THE TOP OF A HAIRCUT.
PULL DOWN SECTIONS OF HAIR FROM ONE SIDE OF THE FRINGE AND TRIM THE DESIRED LENGTH OF. FOLLOW THIS GUIDE TO THE OTHER SIDE TO CREATE A NEAT, UNIFORM SHAPE. BE CAREFUL NOT TO TAKE TOO MUCH OFF HERE AS IT WILL NEGATIVELY IMPACT THE LAYERING SHAPE ON TOP.
STEP 9: BLOWDRY
BLOW ALL THE EXCESS HAIR OFF THE CLIENT AND THEN PROCEED TO BLOWDRY THEIR HAIR USING EITHER YOUR HANDS, A ROUND OR VENT BRUSH DEPENDING ON THEIR DESIRED STYLE. MAKE SURE THE HAIR IS COMPLETELY DRY EVENLY THROUGHOUT THE HEAD BEFORE YOU PROCEED TO THE NEXT STEP.
STEP 10: CLIPPER OVER COMB
CLIPPER OVER COMB WITH THE 1 GAURD ON THE CLIPPER IN COLUMNS, PICKING UP THE HAIR IN THE 'BLEND' AREA SQAURE AND SWIPING TO THE LEFT OR RIGHT WITH THE CLIPPER. ALWAYS REMEMBER TO TILT THE COMB OUT 45 DEGREES TO MAKE SURE YOU DON'T CUT ANY CHUNKS OUT OF THE HAIR. YOU CAN ALSO VERTICALLY SWIPE TO REFINE YOUR BLEND AREA. REPEAT THIS PROCESS WITH THE GUARD OFF AND THE LEVER OPEN (0.5)
STEP 11: SCISSOR OVER COMB
SCISSOR OVER COMB IN COLUMNS, FLOWING UP SQUARE ON THE HEAD. WORK IN COLUMNS, ALWAYS MOVING AGAINST THE HAIR GROWTH. THE COMB MUST MOVE SLOWLY WITH THE SCISSORS MOVING FAST IN ORDER TO CREATE A SMOOTH AND GRADUAL BLEND.
STEP 12: TEXTURISE
SEPARATE THE TOP OF THE HEAD INTO 3 COLUMNS TO ENSURE THAT YOU DO NOT OVER TEXTURISE THE SAME AREA. YOU CAN TEXTURISE FROM THE FRONT TO BACK OR BACK TO FRONT DEPENDING ON THE LENGTH OF THE HAIR. FOCUS ON REMOVING THE WEIGHT AS CLOSE TO THE ROOT AS POSSIBLE WITHOUT CHANGING YOUR CREATED LENGTH. WHEN THE HAIR IS SHORTER, PICK UP THE HAIR WITH THE COMB INSTEAD OF YOUR FINGERS.
STEP 13: FINISH & STYLE
TO FINISH THE HAIRCUT, WE DUST OFF OUR CUSTOMER OF ALL LOOSE HAIR, APPLY SOME TALCU, POWDER TO OUR DUSTIN BRUSH AND APPLY TO NECKLINE. SHAVE THE CUSTOMERS NECK AND EDGES WITH YOUR CUTTHROAT RAZOR AND SHAVING GEL AND FINALLY APPLY SOME STYLING PRODUCT AND MOULD INTO THE CLEINT'S DESIRED STYLE.
THE 0.5 FADE
A 0.5 FADE IS A HAIRCUT THAT STARTS AT A 0.5 GRADE AND GRADUALLY 'FADES' UP TO A LONGER LENGTH AT THE ROUND OF THE HEAD.
STEP 1: HORSE-SHOE SECTION
ENSURE THE HAIR IS WET THROUGHOUT EVENLY. STARTING AT THE RECESSION POINT, SEPARATE THE TOP OF THE HAIR FROM THE SIDES. COMB THE HAIR ON THE SIDES DOWN VERTICALLY AND THE HAIR ON THE TOP OVER THE HEAD. PICK YOUR LENGTH BY PUTTING IN YOUR BLOCK GRADUATION.
STEP 2: GRADE NUMBER 3/1.5 (OPEN & CLOSED)
IN ORDER TO FADE THE BACK AND SIDES, IT IS ESSENTIAL TO FIRST REMOVE THE WEIGHT WITH A CANVAS GRADE. START WITH A NUMBER 3 GUARD AND USE A GLIDING MOTION TO REMOVE THE INITIAL WEIGHT. WORK IN COLUMNS AROUND THE HEAD. AT THE BEGINNING OF EACH COLUMN, ENGAGE THE TEETH OF THE GRADE BELOW THE BOTTOM HAIRLINE THEN ROTATE THE ANGLE COMING UP SQUARE OFF THE TEMPORAL BONE. AROUND THE BACK, GLIDE SQUARE OFF THE LAMBOID BONE. REPEAT THIS PROCESS WITH A 1.5 GRADE OPEN AND CLOSED.
STEP 3: PLACEMENT LINE
REMOVE YOUR CLIPPER GUARD AND OPEN THE LEVER TO A 0.5. IT IS IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER THAT THE PLACEMENT OF THE LINE WILL DETERMINE THE HEIGHT OF THE STARTING POINT OF THE FADE. YOU CAN CREATE A LOW, MEDIUM OR HIGH FADE DEPENDING ON THE CLIENT'S PREFERENCE. STARTING AT THE FRONT HAIRLINE, PLACE THE 0.5 LINE HORIZONTALLY AND MOVE TOWARDS THE BACK OF THE HEAD MAKING SURE TO STOP AT HALF WAY ONCE YOU REACH THE NAPE. USE THE CORNER OF THE CLIPPER TO CREATE A CURVED LINE BETWEEN THE SIDES AND BACK OF THE HEAD. REPEAT ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE, MEETING IN THE MIDDLE AT THE BACK FOR AN EVEN AND BALANCED LINE.THE AREA ESTABLISHED BETWEEN THE 0.5 GRADE AND THE 1.5 GRADE IS WHERE YOU WILL NOW FOCUS ON CREATING THE FADE IN THE UPCOMING STEPS. REMEMBER TO PLACE YOUR LINE ONLY ON OR UNDERNEATH THE OCCIPITAL BONE.
STEP 4: 1 GRADE
ATTACH THE 1 GRADE, LEVER FULLY OPEN, THUS CREATING A GRADE 1.5. START BY PLACING THE TEETH OF THE GRADE BENEATH THE PLACEMENT OF THE LINE. USING A RUBBING C MOTION WHICH HELPS CATCH ALL THE HAIR, RESULTING IN A SMOOTHER FADE. WORK IN COLUMNS AROUND THE HEAD, KEEPING THE CLIPPERS PARALLEL TO THE PLACEMENT OF THE LINE
REPEAT THIS STEP WITHE THE 1.5 CLOSED (GRADE 1)
STEP 5: 0.75/0.5 FILLER GRADE
ATTACH THE 0.5 FILLER GRADE, ADJUSTING THE LEVER SO IT IS OPEN CREATING A 0.75. BEGIN TO FADE THE NUMBER 0.5 LINE INTO THE GRADE 2 . ENGAGE THE TEETH OF THE GRADE BENEATH THE PLACEMENT OF THE LINE. USING A RUBBING C MOTION, WHICH HELPS CATCH ALL THE HAIR, RESULTING IN A SMOOTH FADE. THE BIGGER YOU 'C' MOTION, THE MORE 'STRETCHED' THE FADE WILL APPEAR. ROTATE THE ANGLE TO SQUARE WHEN WORKING UP EACH COLUMN SO THE 0.5 GRADE BLENDS INTO THE 2 GRADE. IT IS ALSO IMPORTANT TO USE THE CORNER OF YOUR CLIPPER HERE. WORK IN COLUMNS AROUND THE HEAD,KEEPING THE CLIPPERS PARALLEL TO THE PLACEMENT OF THE LINE.
REPEAT THIS STEP WITH THE 0.5 FILLER GRADE CLOSED USING THE CORNER OF YOUR CLIPPER.
STEP 6: TAPERING THE NAPE
FADE THE BOTTOM OF THE HAIRLINE STARTING WITH THE 0.75 GRADE AND WORK DOWN AS MANY GRADES AS YOU NEED TO UNTIL THE HAIR IS BLENDED. THE SHORTEST GRADE YOU BLEND DOWN INTO IS DEPENDENT ON THE CLIENT'S DESIRED BASE LENGTH. FOR EXAMPLE, IF THEY WANTED A 5 BACK AND SIDES, YOU WOULDN'T NECESSARILY NEED TO FADE DOWN INTO A 0. BUT IF THEY HAD A 0.5 FADE (LIKE HERE), YOU WOULD.
STEP 7: TAPERING & OUTLINES
THE GENERAL RULE HERE FOR TAPERING IS THTA IF THE GRADE IS 3 OR HIGHER, WE USE OUR TRIMMERS AND COMB TO TAPER THE EDGES - DIAGRAM (1). IF THE GRADE IS 3 OR LOWER, WE USE HALF A GRADE LOWER AND GO ROUND THE EDGES ON 'TWO-WHEELS' OF THE CLIPPERDIAGRAM (2). IN THIS EXAMPLE, WE WILL USE OPTION (2)
USE THE DETAILERS AND THE SELECTED COMB TO REFINE AND SHAPE THE OUTLINES. START AT THE FRONT HAIRLINES AND THEN WORK AROUND THE EAR. CONTINUE BEHIND THE EAR AND THEN INTO THE HAIRLINE AT THE BACK OF THE HEAD TO CREAT YOUR NECK SHAPE.
STEP 8: LAYER THE TOP
ENSURE THE HAIR IS WET EVENLY THROUGHOUT THE TOP. STAND BEHIND THE CLIENT AND CREATE THE PROFILE LINE. THEN MOVE TO THE SIDE AND CUT IN THE PROFILE LINE AS LEARNED PREVIOUSLY. FOLLOW THIS PROFILE LINE GUIDE AROUND THE HEAD CUTTING A ROUND OR SQUARE LAYER. START AT THE FRONT HAIRLINE AND MOVE TOWARDS THE BACK (APEX). AFTER CUTTING THE TOP, MOVE THE PROFILE LINE THROUGH TO THE CROWN AND SECTION INTO PIZZA SLICES TO CUT THE BACK.
DON'T FORGET TO CROSS CHECK THE TOP BEFORE YOU MOVE ON!
STEP 9: ADJUST THE FRINGE
WE MUST ALWAYS ADJUST THE LENGTH IN THE FRINGE TO FINISH THE TOP OF A HAIRCUT.
PULL DOWN SECTIONS OF HAIR FROM ONE SIDE OF THE FRINGE AND TRIM THE DESIRED LENGTH OF. FOLLOW THIS GUIDE TO THE OTHER SIDE TO CREATE A NEAT, UNIFORM SHAPE. BE CAREFUL NOT TO TAKE TOO MUCH OFF HERE AS IT WILL NEGATIVELY IMPACT THE LAYERING SHAPE ON TOP.
STEP 10: BLOWDRY
BLOW ALL THE EXCESS HAIR OFF THE CLIENT AND THEN PROCEED TO BLOWDRY THEIR HAIR USING EITHER YOUR HANDS, A ROUND OR VENT BRUSH DEPENDING ON THEIR DESIRED STYLE. MAKE SURE THE HAIR IS COMPLETELY DRY EVENLY THROUGHOUT THE HEAD BEFORE YOU PROCEED TO THE NEXT STEP.
STEP 11: CLIPPER OVER COMB
CLIPPER OVER COMB WITH THE 1 GAURD ON THE CLIPPER IN COLUMNS, PICKING UP THE HAIR IN THE 'BLEND' AREA SQAURE AND SWIPING TO THE LEFT OR RIGHT WITH THE CLIPPER. ALWAYS REMEMBER TO TILT THE COMB OUT 45 DEGREES TO MAKE SURE YOU DON'T CUT ANY CHUNKS OUT OF THE HAIR. YOU CAN ALSO VERTICALLY SWIPE TO REFINE YOUR BLEND AREA. REPEAT THIS PROCESS WITH THE GUARD OFF AND THE LEVER OPEN (0.5)
STEP 12: SCISSOR OVER COMB
SCISSOR OVER COMB IN COLUMNS, FLOWING UP SQUARE ON THE HEAD. WORK IN COLUMNS, ALWAYS MOVING AGAINST THE HAIR GROWTH. THE COMB MUST MOVE SLOWLY WITH THE SCISSORS MOVING FAST IN ORDER TO CREATE A SMOOTH AND GRADUAL BLEND.
STEP 13: TEXTURISE
SEPARATE THE TOP OF THE HEAD INTO 3 COLUMNS TO ENSURE THAT YOU DO NOT OVER TEXTURISE THE SAME AREA. YOU CAN TEXTURISE FROM THE FRONT TO BACK OR BACK TO FRONT DEPENDING ON THE LENGTH OF THE HAIR. FOCUS ON REMOVING THE WEIGHT AS CLOSE TO THE ROOT AS POSSIBLE WITHOUT CHANGING YOUR CREATED LENGTH. WHEN THE HAIR IS SHORTER, PICK UP THE HAIR WITH THE COMB INSTEAD OF YOUR FINGERS.
STEP 14: FINISH & STYLE
TO FINISH THE HAIRCUT, WE DUST OFF OUR CUSTOMER OF ALL LOOSE HAIR, APPLY SOME TALCU, POWDER TO OUR DUSTIN BRUSH AND APPLY TO NECKLINE. SHAVE THE CUSTOMERS NECK AND EDGES WITH YOUR CUTTHROAT RAZOR AND SHAVING GEL AND FINALLY APPLY SOME STYLING PRODUCT AND MOULD INTO THE CLEINT'S DESIRED STYLE.
THE SKIN FADE
A SKINFADE IS A HAIRCUT THAT STARTS AT SKIN/BALD HAIR ON THE SIDES FADES' UP TO A LONGER LENGTH AT THE ROUND OF THE HEAD.
STEP 1: HORSE-SHOE SECTION
ENSURE THE HAIR IS WET THROUGHOUT EVENLY. STARTING AT THE RECESSION POINT, SEPARATE THE TOP OF THE HAIR FROM THE SIDES. COMB THE HAIR ON THE SIDES DOWN VERTICALLY AND THE HAIR ON THE TOP OVER THE HEAD. PICK YOUR LENGTH BY PUTTING IN YOUR BLOCK GRADUATION.
STEP 2: GRADE NUMBER 3 (CLOSED) THEN 1.5 (OPEN & CLOSED)
IN ORDER TO FADE THE BACK AND SIDES, IT IS ESSENTIAL TO FIRST REMOVE THE WEIGHT WITH A CANVAS GRADE. START WITH A NUMBER 3 GUARD AND USE A GLIDING MOTION TO REMOVE THE INITIAL WEIGHT. WORK IN COLUMNS AROUND THE HEAD. AT THE BEGINNING OF EACH COLUMN, ENGAGE THE TEETH OF THE GRADE BELOW THE BOTTOM HAIRLINE THEN ROTATE THE ANGLE COMING UP SQUARE OFF THE TEMPORAL BONE. AROUND THE BACK, GLIDE SQUARE OFF THE LAMBOID BONE. REPEAT THIS PROCESS WITH A 1.5 GRADE (OPEN AND CLOSED)
STEP 3: PLACEMENT LINE
USE YOUR TRIMMER HERE. IT IS IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER THAT THE PLACEMENT OF THE LINE WILL DETERMINE THE HEIGHT OF THE STARTING POINT OF THE FADE. YOU CAN CREATE A LOW, MEDIUM OR HIGH FADE DEPENDING ON THE CLIENT'S PREFERENCE. STARTING AT THE FRONT HAIRLINE, PLACE THE TRIMMER LINE HORIZONTALLY AND MOVE TOWARDS THE BACK OF THE HEAD MAKING SURE TO STOP AT HALF WAY ONCE YOU REACH THE NAPE. USE THE CORNER OF THE CLIPPER TO CREATE A CURVED LINE BETWEEN THE SIDES AND BACK OF THE HEAD. REPEAT ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE, MEETING IN THE MIDDLE AT THE BACK FOR AN EVEN AND BALANCED LINE.THE AREA ESTABLISHED BETWEEN THE TRIMMER AND THE 1.5 GRADE IS WHERE YOU WILL NOW FOCUS ON CREATING THE FADE IN THE UPCOMING STEPS. REMEMBER TO PLACE YOUR LINE ONLY ON OR UNDERNEATH THE OCCIPITAL BONE. MAKE SURE YOU LEAVE ENOUGH ROOM FOR THE REMAINING STEPS OF THE FADE.
STEP 4: FOIL SHAVER (OPTIONAL)
USE YOUR FOIL SHAVER HERE. ENGAGE THE HEAD OF THE FOIL BENEATH THE PLACEMENT OF THE LINE. USING A FLICKING MOTION, WHICH HELPS CATCH ALL THE HAIR. ROTATE THE ANGLE TO SQUARE WHEN WORKING UP EACH COLUMN SO THE FOIL GRADE BLENDS INTO THE TRIMMER GRADE. WORK IN COLUMNS AROUND THE HEAD,KEEPING THE CLIPPERS PARALLEL TO THE PLACEMENT OF THE LINE.
STEP 5: 0.5 PLACEMENT LINE
TAKE YOUR THE GUARD OFF YOUR CLIPPER AND OPEN THE LEVER TO CREAT A 0.5 GRADE. INSERT ANOTHER PLACEMENT LINE ABOUT HALF AN INCH (OR A SMALL COMB'S WIDTH) ABOVE YOUR ORIGINAL TRIMMER PLACEMENT LINE. PLACE THE 0.5 LINE HORIZONTALLY AND MOVE TOWARDS THE BACK OF THE HEAD MAKING SURE TO STOP AT HALF WAY ONCE YOU REACH THE NAPE. USE THE CORNER OF THE CLIPPER TO CREATE A CURVED LINE BETWEEN THE SIDES AND BACK OF THE HEAD. REPEAT ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE, MEETING IN THE MIDDLE AT THE BACK FOR AN EVEN AND BALANCED LINE.THE AREA ESTABLISHED BETWEEN THE TRIMMER LINE AND THE 0.5 GRADE IS WHERE YOU WILL NOW FOCUS ON CREATING THE FADE IN THE UPCOMING STEPS. REMEMBER TO PLACE YOUR LINE ONLY ON OR UNDERNEATH THE OCCIPITAL BONE. MAKE SURE YOU LEAVE ENOUGH ROOM FOR THE REMAINING STEPS OF THE FADE.
STEP 6: 0.25/0 GRADE
REMOVE YOUR CLIPPER GUARD AND OPEN THE LEVER HALFWAY TO A 0.25 GRADE. BEGIN TO FADE THE TRIMMER LINE INTO THE 0.5 GRADE . ENGAGE THE CORNER OF YOUR TEETH OF THE GRADE BENEATH THE PLACEMENT OF THE LINE. USING A RUBBING C MOTION, WHICH HELPS CATCH ALL THE HAIR, RESULTING IN A SMOOTH FADE. ONCE THE LINE HAS BEEN 50% FADED OUT, REPEAT THE PROCESS WITH YOUR 0 GRADE BY CLOSING THE CLIPPER LEVER FULLY. WORK IN COLUMNS AROUND THE HEAD,KEEPING THE CLIPPERS PARALLEL TO THE PLACEMENT OF THE LINE.
STEP 7: 1 GUARD (OPEN AND CLOSED)
ATTACH THE 1 GRADE, ADJUSTING THE LEVER SO IT IS OPEN CREATING A 1.5. BEGIN TO FADE THE NUMBER 0.5 LINE INTO THE GRADE 1.5 . ENGAGE THE TEETH OF THE GRADE BENEATH THE PLACEMENT OF THE LINE. USING A RUBBING C MOTION, WHICH HELPS CATCH ALL THE HAIR, RESULTING IN A SMOOTH FADE. THE BIGGER YOU 'C' MOTION, THE MORE 'STRETCHED' THE FADE WILL APPEAR. ROTATE THE ANGLE TO SQUARE WHEN WORKING UP EACH COLUMN SO THE 1.5 GRADE BLENDS INTO THE 2 GRADE. WORK IN COLUMNS AROUND THE HEAD,KEEPING THE CLIPPERS PARALLEL TO THE PLACEMENT OF THE LINE.
REPEAT THIS STEP WITH THE 1 GUARD CLOSED.
STEP 8: 0.75/0.5 FILLER GRADE
STEP 9: LAYER THE TOP
ATTACH THE 0.5 FILLER GRADE, ADJUSTING THE LEVER SO IT IS OPEN CREATING A 0.75. BEGIN TO FADE THE NUMBER 0.5 LINE INTO THE GRADE 2 . ENGAGE THE TEETH OF THE GRADE BENEATH THE PLACEMENT OF THE LINE. USING A RUBBING C MOTION, WHICH HELPS CATCH ALL THE HAIR, RESULTING IN A SMOOTH FADE. THE BIGGER YOU 'C' MOTION, THE MORE 'STRETCHED' THE FADE WILL APPEAR. ROTATE THE ANGLE TO SQUARE WHEN WORKING UP EACH COLUMN SO THE 0.5 GRADE BLENDS INTO THE 2 GRADE. IT IS ALSO IMPORTANT TO USE THE CORNER OF YOUR CLIPPER HERE. WORK IN COLUMNS AROUND THE HEAD,KEEPING THE CLIPPERS PARALLEL TO THE PLACEMENT OF THE LINE.
REPEAT THIS STEP WITH THE 0.5 FILLER GRADE CLOSED USING THE CORNER OF YOUR CLIPPER.
ENSURE THE HAIR IS WET EVENLY THROUGHOUT THE TOP. STAND BEHIND THE CLIENT AND CREATE THE PROFILE LINE. THEN MOVE TO THE SIDE AND CUT IN THE PROFILE LINE AS LEARNED PREVIOUSLY. FOLLOW THIS PROFILE LINE GUIDE AROUND THE HEAD CUTTING A ROUND OR SQUARE LAYER. START AT THE FRONT HAIRLINE AND MOVE TOWARDS THE BACK (APEX). AFTER CUTTING THE TOP, MOVE THE PROFILE LINE THROUGH TO THE CROWN AND SECTION INTO PIZZA SLICES TO CUT THE BACK.
DON'T FORGET TO CROSS CHECK THE TOP BEFORE YOU MOVE ON!
STEP 10: CONNECTING THE SIDES TO THE TOP
WHEN YOU CUT A SHORTER LENGTH ON THE SIDE COMPARED TO THE TOP, THERE WILL BE A NATURAL OVERHANG FROM THE TOP TO THE SIDES. WE CONNECT THE SCISSORWORK ON TOP TO THE CLIPPER-WORK ON TOP WHEN WET. CUT THE OVERHANG SQUARE AT 90 DEGREES, CONNECTING IT WTH THE BACK AND SIDES.
STEP 11: ADJUST THE FRINGE
WE MUST ALWAYS ADJUST THE LENGTH IN THE FRINGE TO FINISH THE TOP OF A HAIRCUT.
PULL DOWN SECTIONS OF HAIR FROM ONE SIDE OF THE FRINGE AND TRIM THE DESIRED LENGTH OF. FOLLOW THIS GUIDE TO THE OTHER SIDE TO CREATE A NEAT, UNIFORM SHAPE. BE CAREFUL NOT TO TAKE TOO MUCH OFF HERE AS IT WILL NEGATIVELY IMPACT THE LAYERING SHAPE ON TOP.
STEP 12: BLOWDRY
BLOW ALL THE EXCESS HAIR OFF THE CLIENT AND THEN PROCEED TO BLOWDRY THEIR HAIR USING EITHER YOUR HANDS, A ROUND OR VENT BRUSH DEPENDING ON THEIR DESIRED STYLE. MAKE SURE THE HAIR IS COMPLETELY DRY EVENLY THROUGHOUT THE HEAD BEFORE YOU PROCEED TO THE NEXT STEP.
STEP 13: CLIPPER OVER COMB
CLIPPER OVER COMB WITH THE 1 GAURD ON THE CLIPPER IN COLUMNS, PICKING UP THE HAIR IN THE 'BLEND' AREA SQAURE AND SWIPING TO THE LEFT OR RIGHT WITH THE CLIPPER. ALWAYS REMEMBER TO TILT THE COMB OUT 45 DEGREES TO MAKE SURE YOU DON'T CUT ANY CHUNKS OUT OF THE HAIR. YOU CAN ALSO VERTICALLY SWIPE TO REFINE YOUR BLEND AREA. REPEAT THIS PROCESS WITH THE GUARD OFF AND THE LEVER OPEN (0.5)
STEP 14: SCISSOR OVER COMB
SCISSOR OVER COMB IN COLUMNS, FLOWING UP SQUARE ON THE HEAD. WORK IN COLUMNS, ALWAYS MOVING AGAINST THE HAIR GROWTH. THE COMB MUST MOVE SLOWLY WITH THE SCISSORS MOVING FAST IN ORDER TO CREATE A SMOOTH AND GRADUAL BLEND.
STEP 15: TEXTURISE, FINISH & STYLE
SEPARATE THE TOP OF THE HEAD INTO 3 COLUMNS TO ENSURE THAT YOU DO NOT OVER TEXTURISE THE SAME AREA. YOU CAN TEXTURISE FROM THE FRONT TO BACK OR BACK TO FRONT DEPENDING ON THE LENGTH OF THE HAIR. FOCUS ON REMOVING THE WEIGHT AS CLOSE TO THE ROOT AS POSSIBLE WITHOUT CHANGING YOUR CREATED LENGTH. WHEN THE HAIR IS SHORTER, PICK UP THE HAIR WITH THE COMB INSTEAD OF YOUR FINGERS. ONCE COMPLETE, CLEAN YOUR CLIENT, SHAVE THEIR NECK AND APPLY SOME STYLING PRODUCT
THE BEARD TRIM
STEP 1: CANVAS GRADE
IN ORDER TO SHAPE A BEARD, IT IS ESSENTIAL TO FIRST REMOVE THE WEIGHT WITH THE BASE CANVAS GRADE - IN THIS INSTANCE A 2 GRADE. WE CALL THIS CREATING THE CANVAS. PLACE THE HEAD BACK COMFORTABLY AT 30 DEGREES. WITH THE NUMBER 2 GRADE, USE A LIGHT RUBBING MOTION TO REMOVE THE LENGTH. WORK IN SECTIONS AROUND THE FACE - FIRST THE CHEEKS, UNDERNEATH THE NECK, THE CHIN AND THE MOUSTACHE. AT THE BEGINNING OF EACH SECTION, ENGAGE THE TEETH OF THE GRADE BELOW THE BOTTOM HAIRLINE THEN COVER THE FULL SECTION AREA. MAKE SURE TO HOLD YOUR COMB UP AS A GUARD TO PREVENT ANY HAIRS GOING INTO THE CUSTOMER'S EYES.
STEP 2: OUTLINES - TRIMMER
USE THE DETAILERS AND THE SELECTED COMB TO REFINE AND SHAPE THE OUTLINES. MAKE SURE THE HEAD IS PERFECTLY STRAIGHT IN THE MIRROR AND START AT THE CENTRE OF THE UNDERNEATH OF THE NECK TO GIVE YOURSELF A CENTRE REFERENCE. YOU CAN USE YOUR HAND AS DEMONSTRATED IN THE PHOTOGRAPHS TO GIVE YOU AN IDEA OF WHERE TO PLACE YOUR LINE. THEN PLACE THE LINE IN EITHER SIDE OF THE UNDERNEATH OF THE NECK. ROTATE THE HEAD TO EITHER THE LEFT OR RIGHT AND PLACE A LINE VERTICALLY ALONGSIDE THE EAR TO CREATE A RIGHT ANGLE AT THE CORNER OF THE BOTTOM OF THE BEARD. REPEAT THIS PROCESS ON THE OTHER SIDE. FINALLY, USE YOUR TRIMMER TO LIGHTLY TAKE THE HAIR OFF THE LIP THAT IS HANGING OVER. BE SURE TO USE THE FULL LENGTH OF YOUR TRIMMER BLADE TO INPUT YOUR OUTLINES.
STEP 3: OUTLINES - CUTTHROAT
USE THE CUTTHROAT RAZOR TO FUTHER REFINE AND SHARPEN YOUR OUTLINES. USING A FRESH BLADE AND SOME SHAVING GEL ON THE CHEEKS, START YOUR SHAPE UP ON ONE SIDE OF THE FACE. ROTATE THE HEAD TO THE LEFT OR RIGHT AND RAZOR IN YOUR CHEEK LINE. WORK IN SMALL HALF INCH SECTIONS DOWN THE CHEEK MAKING SURE YOU ARE STRETCHING THE SKIN USING YOUR THUMB CLOSE TO THE CUTTHROAT. YOU WANT TO CREATE A SUBTLE CURVED FINISH ON THE CHEEK LINE AND NOT EAT INTO THE NATURAL HAIRLINE TOO MUCH. REPEAT THIS PROCESS ON THE OTHER SIDE. TO CLEAN UP UNDERNEATH THE NECK, USE A FOIL SHAVER INSTEAD OF A CUTTHROAT. IF YOUR LINE IS UNEVEN AFTER YOUR FIRST PASS, REPEAT THIS PROCESS BUT WITHOUT GEL.
