E XC LUSI V E M AG A Z I N E F O R T H E J E W EL L ERY B USI N E SS I N T H E BA LT I C SE A R E G I O N
March 2017 (32)
FASTEST WAY TO THE BALTIC SEA REGION!
Earing and composition by Giedymin Jablonski
A M B E R T R I P A R T J E W E L L E R Y C O N T E S T/ E X H I B I T I O N
Nature morte or still life, a genre commonly associated with painting, has been present in art from the earliest times. Contemporary artists still explore the topic with all its symbolic tradition as well as new connotations in different media. We asked jewellers and artists to explore this topic in jewellery form. There are very few works of contemporary art jewellery associated with nature morte. It may mean that such a subject is not an easy one for makers but it certainly is an interesting and inspiring one. Equally, amber, the recommended material (though not obligatory) fits well into the topic as it is itself often contains the fossilized remains of ancient life â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and could be called a natural nature morte. For more information about the traveling exhibition and where it will be shown:
Quo Vadis Amber?
closer the spring edition of the amber trade
Other possibilities to explore new foreign markets (India) and to
fair comes, the more niggling the questions
extend contacts (China, the USA, and Russia) are opening up for
about the future of the amber industry become. The boom
Polish amber jewellery producers who decide to participate in
that could be observed for the last 3 years on the amber market
the support programme for the years 2017–2019. The maximum
in China has finished just as suddenly as it began. What next?
amount of financial aid to cover part of the promotional costs by the programme is 1 million PLN (about 250,000 EUR).
In the last few years, jewellery producers and amber trade intermediaries have enjoyed rapidly increasing profits. In 2016,
While the preparations for the spring edition of the trade fair
for the first time, they incurred losses reaching up to as much as
are underway, it is still not clear whose tastes the exhibitors
80 per cent – in the case of the producers of high end jewellery,
should try to appeal to. It can be expected that a significant
both quality and price-wise. It is obvious that the expected and
part of the exhibitors will continue the trends that have been
inevitable market decline has come and it is time to look for
followed so far – although the boom has finished, it does not
new outlets. Which ones could have the best prospects? Which
mean that all clients from China have lost interest in amber
ones would be the easiest to conquer? The companies who have
products. Other producers are going back to the times before
consciously chosen designs that appeal to many consumers
the boom: “We are not planning any special investments in
all over the world have the fewest problems answering those
new collections until we find out what the needs of the “new”
questions. However, the ones who have been focused solely
customers are. We are going to offer traditional, silver jewellery
on the Chinese market struggle with them most.
decorated with cognac and green amber, which has always found buyers” – declares Łukasz Kwiatkowski from the Berkwiat
Nevertheless, both types of companies are looking towards the
company. And Wojciech Kalandyk, the owner of the Art7
Western Europe, which after a break caused by the extremely
company, which has successfully used a high level of design
high prices of amber, is gradually showing interest in products
of a universally appealing character, concludes: “Each year
decorated with amber. The other direction is the USA – the
before March almost everybody has some reservations. And as
largest outlet for amber products until the beginning of the
each year it will probably turn out that they were exaggerated”.
financial crisis in 2007, and now very demanding, but at the
I hope he is right…
same time very promising. The hope placed in those market is justified, as the last year’s edition of Amberif the International Fair for Amber, Jewellery and Stones was visited by a visibly higher number of buyers from European countries than in previous years.
March 2017 (32)
In Ukraine, grass-roots amber mining develops annually, in the year of 2016 it reached a colossal scale. The efforts to legalize the “sunny stone” trade have been unsuccessful so far – illegal amber mining is thriving in the Volyn, Zhytomyr and Rivne regions, even the state apparatus is not able to incorporate it into the legal field.
In the summer of 2016, 1200 years after her death, the piece of jewellery was found by chance at Agdenes farm, at the outermost part of the Trondheim Fjord in mid-Norway. The well-preserved object is an ornament with a bird figure that has fishor dolphin-like patterns on both “wings.”
Currently, 100 persons are employed at the jewellery studio DARVIN that sells its goods all over the world. It took about two decades to create our own style.. “Baltic Jewellery News” interviews the owner of the jewellery studio Viacheslav Darvin about love to a unique piece of amber, distinctive design of jewellery goods, customers.
We know that there is Baltic amber in Kaliningrad, amber is extracted in Ukraine and Poland too. In Lithuania contest for amber exploration and production for industrial purposes did not receive any interest. However did you know that there are amber deposits in Belarus?
Each year, the State Burn Centre of Riga Eastern Clinical University Hospital (RECUH) admits two to three people suffering burns as a result of finding a piece of phosphorus resembling amber that was washed ashore.
2016 was a turbulent year for fine jewellery, with key markets India and China heavily impacted by the fall in demand for gold jewellery. Asia Pacific continues to be the largest contributor of fine jewellery in the world taking up 61 % of the market, with China and India leading the market.
Baltic Jewellery News / March 2017 (32) Manufakturu st. 16–7, LT-11342, LT-11342, Vilnius, Lithuania Tel. / Fax: +370 5 2608497; E-mail: email@example.com Editor / Anna Sado / E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org Designer / SAVITAI, Translators / VERTIMU GURU, CIRCULATION 4 000
Distribution in the whole Baltic Sea Region. Copyright: Contents of “Baltic Jewellery News” are copyright. ISSN 2335-2132 Reproduction of material in part or in whole is not permitted in any form without the written authorization of the publisher. The editorial office is not responsible for the content of advertisements and for the accuracy of the facts presented by the authors.
We invite all those whose interests are related to our goals to join our project. With the help of various perspectives and opening of new discussions the jewellery business in the region can become clear and more beneficiary for everyone. Thank you for the cooperation!
CONTENT Russian Jewellery Report
Ukrainian Jewellery Report 4
Overview of Ukraine’s Amber
EXHIBITION “UKRAINIAN WORLD OF AMBER” the culture of “sunny” treasure
Belarusian Jewellery Report 10
in Russia 62
About love to a unique piece of amber
“Jūratė” – a special prize for mastery
Chinese Jewellery Report
Presidential Administration of Belarus will determine who will lead the country in
Asia pacific in fine jewellery
IJL Kickstart 2017
extracting amber 12
UK Jewellery Report
The Prime minister of Belarus has become interested in gold jewellery of belarusians
II Annual forum of amber industry will take place
Worldwide Jewellery Report
Polish Jewelley Report 16 Amberif
JSC Kaliningrad Amber Factory amber prices
10 years of Jubinale trade fair in Krakow
The Worldwide price for raw amber
Variety is our asset
Amber Silver 925 Jewellery
A craftsman is as good as a designer
The Worldwide Gold Price
OUTLOOK 2017 Global economic trends and their
German Jewellery Report 26
On course for the Intergem 2022
Dressed up with bling stolen in viking
impact on gold
International Amber Association Report
Norwegian Jewellery Report 84
20 years of the International Amber Association
Zbigniew KRASKA: What’s the silver’s future?
Swedish Jewellery Report 34
Golden Opportunities at Precious 2017
FOUR: we connect insiders and outsiders of “contemporary jewellery bubble”
Finnish Jewellery Report 40
Visiting imatra's fine art school
Estonian Jewellery Report 44
Interview with the chairman of Amber Trip art jewellery contest 2016
Latvian Jewellery Report 46
False amber at Liepaja seaside
Lithuanian Jewellery Report 50
“If not me, then who?” - Maryte DOMINAITĖ
Jewellery becomes precious, when it spreads warmth to its owner
New horizons Amber Trip
Personality Inclusions 90
Treasure found by an accident
Major jewellery trade fairs
UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
“Environment in Rivne, Vinnytsia and Zhytomyr regions is suffering.”
OVERVIEW OF UKRAINE’S AMBER MARKET By Vitaliy PETROVSKY
In Ukraine, grass-roots amber mining develops annually, in the year of 2016 it reached a colossal scale. The efforts to legalize the “sunny stone” trade have been unsuccessful so far – illegal amber mining is thriving in the Volyn, Zhytomyr and Rivne regions, even the state apparatus is not able to incorporate it into the legal field. In most cases, the mining business is carried out completely illegally, goes to market bypassing official exchanges and the income ends up in the pockets of private entrepreneurs.
contraband deprives the budget of milli
ons of dollars each year, and this issue does not let the state improve its image in the international arena. In September 2016 Verkhovna Rada was supposed to review the legalization of amber mining in several regions, but they did not get to it, since the bill was not the most urgent issue on the agenda.
Thus, the situation regarding amber on the Ukraine’s market has not changed much over the past year. Does waiting for fundamental changes in 2017 make sense then?
STATISTICS ON BUDGETARY FUNDS PLEDGED FOR AMBER MINING IN 2016 Interestingly enough, according to the statistics, the income from this area included into the 2016 budget was
In 2017, according to the same statistics,
THE BUDGET IS SUPPOSED TO GET A MUCH LARGER AMOUNT OF MONEY – 4.3 BILLION HRYVNIA, which should be an indirect sign of an upcoming fight against smuggling, as well as legalization of amber market proceeds www.balticjewellerynews.com
this sum is minuscule. Therefore, from here you can easily
amounting to 25 %). In 2017, according to the same statistics,
conclude that in 2016 the illegally exported and sold amber
the budget is supposed to get a much larger amount of
amounting to about 250 tons was continuously illegally mined
money – 4.3 billion hryvnia, which should be an indirect sign of
and delivered to its destination avoiding the public sphere.
an upcoming fight against smuggling, as well as legalization of
Of course, there are also legitimate miners, but from them
amber market proceeds. Will it be actually done – we will have
the budget revenues are extremely low. Compared to the
to wait and see. But if we consider the matter in the context
billions made by illegal prospectors, these amounts do not
of the real and already existing experience of legalizing
really mean anything.
various fields, then Ukraine will hardly be able to obtain
Maybe slightly more amber was confiscated slightly, but
the above-mentioned amount of money from its amber
only these figures got into the state storage and documents.
According to other sources, this time from the National Police of Ukraine, in the past year a much larger amount of
WHAT WAS THE AMOUNT OF AMBER SMUGGLING IN UKRAINE IN 2016
amber was confiscated – approximately 14 tons. And more
In Ukraine, illegal miners extract amber in truly huge
In addition to amber, more than 350 motorized and ordinary
amounts. According to various inside sources, a large number
pumps were seized, as well as more than 150 different pieces
of people are involved in the mining – from 16 to 32 thousand
of equipment for the extraction and transportation of the
people monthly. They use modern pump-type equipment
“sunny stone”. As we know, the National Police does not prove
and manpower that allow them to extract the “sunny stone”
the results of its operations in any way, so the figures may be
illegally on a close to industrial scale. A qualified miner can
than 400 criminal cases were opened against the perpetrators.
easily make 60–110 dollars a day doing it, while an ordinary worker can count on 25–45 dollars, which says a lot about
In 2016 the illegally exported and sold amber amounting to about 250 TONS WAS
the volumes of amber mining and huge profits that omit the state budget. It was not possible to discover and stop all amber
CONTINUOUSLY ILLEGALLY MINED AND DELIVERED TO ITS DESTINATION avoiding
smuggling in 2016 even with the use of small border aviation that was supposed to explore and fixate mining complexes. 15 of such complexes were revealed, annual amber production
the public sphere
of which exceeds 250 tons. This unaccounted volume can not be accurately measured due to objective reasons, but experts predicted this amount of amber, which was bypassed official institutions in 2016 alone.
This begs the question, where did the difference of almost
If you look at the statistics for 2015, the figure there was
11 tons of amber which were not included in the state storage
slightly smaller – about 200 tons. At the same time, according to
and documentation go? As well as various equipment. Also, it
the official data the budget received only 50 thousand hryvnia.
is unclear what prevents the government from blocking the
So the shortfall amounted to as much as 6 billion hryvnia!
illegal mining in all three regions of Ukraine, since it can be
Now the production volumes have increased significantly, so
done quite easily and effectively, putting an end to the illegal
in 2016 the budget has not received much more than that. As
amber mining once and for all, increasing the country’s budget
mentioned above, for the extracted 250 tons of illegal amber
and its contributions.
the budget was supposed to get meager 1.5 billion, but failed
The statistics of the Ukraine’s amber market in 2016 is
to collect even that much.
disappointing, we can only hope that in 2017 things will get much better and relevant bills on fighting the illegal mining
HOW MUCH ILLEGAL AMBER WAS CONFISCATED IN UKRAINE IN 2016
market will be considered and adopted. Otherwise, the environment of the three regions will be compromised – it
According to the official statistics, in 2016 about 3.5 tons
is not only that the country’s budget is not received a large
of amber were seized in Ukraine by carrying out various
amount of money, but the agriculture of the Rivne, Vinnytsia
operations. The value of the confiscated amber doe not exceed
and Zhytomyr regions may gradually come to a complete
17 million hryvnia. Compared to the figures mentioned above,
UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
estimated at 1.5 billion hryvnia (based on amber rents
UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
“Belarus to extract amber?”
EXHIBITION “UKRAINIAN WORLD OF AMBER” the culture of “sunny” treasure By Olena BELICHENKO In January–February 2017 Lublin Museum (Poland) held an exhibition “Ukrainian World of Amber”. The exhibition was organised in collaboration with Director of Lublin Museum Katarzyna Mieczkowska-Czerniak.
Director of the company “Centre Sunshine Craft” Iryna VERESHCHUK
at the famous Lublin castle, the former king’s residence, the
exposition provides information about history of Poland and also Ukrainian lands. Unique frescos and icons of orthodox
quartz, citrine, rock crystal, marble), and metal (silver), ceramics
shrines have been preserved in the castle.
and wood are presented at the exhibition. Non-traditional
Paintings, sculptures, furniture, interior objects and
combination of these materials with amber gives a unique
jewellery goods where amber is combined with other materials
style to the exhibits and bears a deep philosophical idea.
such as coloured glass (Tiffany style), natural stones (smoky
Over more than 40 million years the Ukrainian land took care
UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
According to the data of the World Amber Council, Ukraine occupies the second place in the world on the volume of amber deposits. UKRAINIAN AMBER
IS UNIQUE DUE TO VARIETY OF ITS COLOURS
of its “sunny” treasure – amber, so that descendants could
The association “Ukrainian Amber World” implemented a
feel the powerful energy of a pitch drop that looks like a sun
number of projects, including the project “Amber way” that
drop frozen in eternity. Ancestors believed in magic features
allowed presenting amber not only in Ukraine, but also beyond
of the stone as a source of energy and a mascot for good luck.
its borders, thereby opening new prospects for the Ukrainian
Amber bears sun and life energies and helps human beings
amber in the world.
to make links of times.
The Association includes the group of companies, among
According to the data of the World Amber Council, Ukraine
them “Centre Sunshine Craft LLC” and “Ambra Simha”.
occupies the second place in the world on the volume of
“Ambra Simha” represents a new philosophy of perceiving
amber deposits. Ukrainian amber is unique due to variety of its
and using amber. It works with the best artists and jewellers
colours. In addition to traditional yellow and brown colours of
to give a new life to amber. Combination of traditional
the stone, there is also amber of unique flavovirent, white and
technologies with the use of modern materials allows creating
dark red colours. Ukrainian amber is of high jewellery quality
masterpieces full of light and warmth given to amber by sun
and is widely used for jewellery and carving.
and soil over millions of years.
The exhibition is presented by the association “Ukrainian
“Ukrainian Amber World” and its exhibition of amber
Amber World”. The organization started its work in 2007. The
artwork plan the further tour to the countries of the Baltic and
goal of its activities is the promotion of Ukrainian amber,
Black Sea regions. Another exhibition will be held in Kaunas city
initiation and support to research, cultural, educational events,
(Lithuania) during the second Baltic-Black Sea forum “Towards
developing and expressing interests of amber industry. The
trust and peace through the dialogue”. Organisers believe
Association works to create an international image of Ukraine
that amber way, the centuries-old common history and art
as a country that appreciates its natural treasures; carefully
will become those values that will facilitate the unity of our
treats its heritage and takes care of the spiritual development
of the future generation.
Phone number: +370 (614) 64 606
Address: Gedimino ave. 64, Vilnius, Lithuania
Work hours: Monday – Friday 9:00AM–6:00PM
www.ambercertificate.com email@example.com +370 614 64606 Gedimino ave. 64, 01111 Vilnius, Lithuania
BELARUSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
“Belarus to extract amber?”
Presidential Administration of Belarus will determine WHO WILL LEAD THE COUNTRY IN EXTRACTING AMBER We know that there is Baltic amber in Kaliningrad, amber is extracted in Ukraine and Poland too. In Lithuania contest for amber exploration and production for industrial purposes did not receive any interest. However did you know that there are amber deposits in Belarus?
Presidential Administration of Belarus will choose organization, which will deal with amber extraction in the country said Deputy Prime Minister of Belarus
“We have deposits of amber, together with the manager of the presidential administration we are determined to choose organization will engage in organizing the assessment and extraction”, – said Deputy Prime Minister of Belarus Mikhail Rusiy. He added that the deposits are located in Gantsevichi district, Brest region. According to geologists, the vast majority of amber deposits in the south-west of the country, mainly on the territory of Brest Polesie. Amber lies at a depth of 0,3–7,5 meters. Belarusian fossil amber is yellow, light yellow, yellowish-white in size from 5 to 45 mm. Experts estimate that about 80–90 % of amber mined in the country can be used in jewellery. The total deposits of amber in Belarus are estimated to be more than 300 tons.
BELARUSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Jewellery by Mir ZOLOTA
THE PRIME MINISTER OF BELARUS HAS BECOME INTERESTED IN GOLD JEWELLERY OF BELARUSIANS The Prime minister Andrei KOBYAKOV has assigned the Ministry of Finance a task to take buying up of precious metals from the population under control.
prime minister of Belarus Andrey Kobyakov issued the order to the Ministry of Finance to introduce a departmental reporting on precious metals in goods and scraps,
which are bought up from the population, and also on jewellery and other household goods made of precious metals and gemstones, BELAPAN informs. According to the press service of the government, it involves introducing the departmental reporting on precious metals in goods and scrap, which are bought up from the population, for the legal entities that have the legal right to buy up precious metals, and also jewellery and other household goods made of precious metals and gemstones for the legal entities that have the right to produce goods, jewellery and other household goods made of precious metals and gemstones by accepting individual orders from the population (by using customer's materials) and (or) by manufacturing.
The document has been adopted in accordance with the Presidential decree of 2 March, 2011 No. 95 “CONCERNING CERTAIN
ISSUES OF COLLECTING INFORMATION THAT IS NOT AVAILABLE IN THE STATE STATISTICAL REPORTS”. www.balticjewellerynews.com
SUPER VIP BUYER Unique Amber by Dai Li Name of company:
Dai & Beltoft CEO Dai Li Ambassador of Baltic Amber of Denmark Amber expert firstname.lastname@example.org DK: +4553662261 China: +8613901235074
Product and Service Offerings:
• Unique Amber collection, Danish and Baltic Amber • Only 100% all natural high quality amber stones and beads • Amber advisory and consulting • Amber sourcing services • Amber appraisement services • Blue amber sourcing
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Jewellery by Danuta BURCZIKKRUCZKOWSKA, fashion by Beata Jarmołowska.
AMBERIF 2017 The 24th International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones GDAŃSK, 22–25 MARCH, 2017 AMBEREXPO Report by AMBERIF PRESS Office
On 22 March, the 24th edition of AMBERIF, the International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones, will begin at AMBEREXPO Gdańsk. It is the most important amber exhibition and the largest jewellery event in Central and Eastern Europe. New jewellery designs and trends will be showcased by 480 companies from 14 countries. The organisers expect over seven thousand visitors from all over the world—mainly Poland, Russia, Germany, China, the UK, the USA, Latvia, the Czech Republic, Lithuania and Ukraine, Denmark, Sweden, Austria, Hungary, Finland, France and Italy. The event will have its highlight in the evening AMBER LOOK Trends & Styles 2017 Amber and Fashion Gala.
BUSINESS & ART The exhibitors will be provided with 12,000 m2 of floor space. New jewellery designs, trends and technologies will be presented by small, family-owned businesses, by artists at the Design Gallery and by large jewellery companies. The exhibitors include mainly manufacturers of gold and silver jewellery with amber, jewellers working with precious stones and diamonds, importers of gold and silver jewellery and watches, manufacturers and importers of machines, tools and jewellery technologies. AMBERIF is one of the key settings for the jewellery industry to meet. Here business meets art, creative ideas are born, the latest trends and technologies in jewellery design are presented to captivate with a wealth of inspiration, bold associations and stunning combinations of materials.
2017 24th International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones
March 22-25 amberif.pl
jewellery by Paweł Kaczyński
ambermart 2017 18th International Amber Fair Gdańsk, Poland 31.08-2.09.2017 ambermart.pl
venue Gdańsk International Fair Co.
partners Exhibition & Convention Centre
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Companies from Austria, Belgium, Croatia, the Czech Republic, France, Germany, India, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Russia, Turkey,
Prestigious awards are presented during Amberif:
the UK, the USA and Poland will have the opportunity to
The Bogdan Mirowski Mercurius Gedanensis
exchange experience, establish new business relations and
Jewellery Mastery Award—a competition for Amberif
get to know the current jewellery fashion trends.
exhibitors, in two categories: Design—Grand Prix, and Workmanship Excellence—MTG SA President’s Gold
AMBERIF defines trends. The Amberif Design Award, i.e. the
Amber Handicraft—a competition addressed to jewellers and young jewellery craft trainees, organised
International Amber Jewellery Design Competition, is a trend-
by the Pomeranian Skilled Craft Chamber of SMEs;
setting event for new development directions, in 2017 on the
theme of Periphery. It is an open competition, with participation
The Amber Sphere—The Łódź Academy of Fine Arts, Jewellery Department Students Award for the Best
from designers, artists, jewellery makers and art school students.
Jewellery Design at Amberif;
Their artistic endeavours are evaluated by an international
judging panel. The award-winning pieces are presented at a
Amber Personality of the Year and Amber Business Partner Award—titles awarded by the International
post-competition exhibit during Amberif (Lobby B).
Amber Association to individuals who not only work
with amber, but also promote, research and collect it in
The AMBER LOOK Trends & Styles Amber and Fashion
a way which goes beyond the scope of their business.
Gala, brought to you by the MTG SA Gdańsk International Fair Co., has for years been one of the most spectacular events
The auspices over AMBERIF have been extended by the
to make AMBERIF shine. AMBER LOOK plays the part of the
Pomeranian Governor (Pomorskie Voivod), Marshal of the
haute couture of amber fashion, presenting original collections
Pomeranian Region and the Mayor of Gdańsk. Long-standing
from Polish amber and gemstone jewellery artists combined
partners have been invited to collaborate, including the SRJ
with designer fashion collections. “Fashion perceives amber
Association of Jewellery Experts, the International Amber
differently than jewellers and this exchange of experience
Association, the Pomeranian Skilled Craft Chamber of SMEs,
between industries is priceless,” emphasises Michał Starost,
the KIGB Polish Chamber of Amber Commerce and the STFZ
the project’s artistic director.
Goldsmithing Artists' Association. AMBERIF is a trade-only event, addressed to individuals and businesses who trade in jewellery, jewellery art and functional art.
Compensa Vienna Insurance Group UkmergÄ&#x2014;s g. 280, LT-06115 Vilnius Tel. 8 5 250 66 00 www.compensa.lt email@example.com
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
10 YEARS OF JUBINALE TRADE FAIR IN KRAKOW Press release by JUBINALE
Anniversaries are kind of magical – they make us stop for a moment, think and analyse. The 10th anniversary of JUBINALE International Jewellery and Watches Trade Fair certainly will not be different. The organizers will use this opportunity to reflect on the fair development and plan activities for the upcoming years while the exhibitors and visitors will think about how JUBINALE influenced their business and helped to establish contacts with customers and suppliers.
Already during the first edition it became clear that the new trade fair, JUBINALE, strongly stands out in terms of organization and has a huge chance to enter the calendar of industry events for good. The following years consistently confirmed this fact – year by year the number of visitors increased, including those from abroad. Every year JUBINALE project team sets new goals and makes sure that these goals are met. In recent years there were number of changes implemented – change of the logo, change of colours, change of the fairgrounds and change of the number of exhibitors (in 2016 over a double, compared to the first edition). However, the good practices and professional
years ago the team of
approach to the organization did not change over the years.
PB Group (then Polish
All these factors contributed to the fact that JUBINALE today
Jewellery), began planning the first edition of JUBINALE, it
provides the industry with an opportunity to meet before the
was not possible to predict what will happen with this new
summer season and explore new markets. JUBINALE is now
initiative. But there was a lot of enthusiasm, fresh ideas and
an important, regular exhibition for people associated with
the jewellery industry and became the event with a strong international audience.
The idea of organizing the exhibition in Krakow rose, among other things, due to the number of signals indicating
The 10th edition of JUBINALE will be held on 08–10.06.2017 in
that the south – Polish jewellery market required activation.
modern hall of International Exhibition and Convention Centre
The project team therefore hoped that JUBINALE will become
EXPO Krakow, where once again you will have a chance to meet
a meeting point of jewellers from southern Poland with
exhibitors from Poland and abroad – producers, manufacturers,
neighbouring countries – and this is exactly what happened.
importers and designers of jewellery and watches.
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
VARIETY IS OUR ASSET Interview with Agata and Krzysztof CAŁKA by Anna SADO
The majority of amber jewellery producers emulate hackneyed designs, tested by other companies – this is why it is difficult to distinguish one from another. Only a few have the courage to go their own way – and they succeed. It looks like the year 2017 will be a very busy one for you... Stanisław Całka: …a lot depends on whether we qualify for the new European Union promotional programme for the jewellery industry for the years 2017–2019. We are planning to participate in over twenty trade events all over the world, for instance trade fairs in Birmingham, Munich, Gdańsk and Mumbai. For each of these events we are preparing specially The Amber-Ring company has always stood out with its
dedicated collections because each event has its own specific
design. You did not take the soft option of choosing tested
character and particular aesthetic expectations. Mumbai? India is a totally new direction for amber.
designs that are currently in fashion and selling well.
Agata Całka: Last year, in May, we were invited by the Polish
AC: It is very well visible at the trade fair in Gdańsk, where
Embassy in New Delhi to take part in a show that turned out
¾ of the companies offer exactly the same. We have always
to be so popular that the organisers are still receiving queries
gone our own way – it has always worked and still works to
regarding buying our jewellery. We decided that that was
our advantage. Of course, Amber-Ring has also collections
enough motivation to check whether the Indian market is
dedicated to the Chinese market, however we have never
open to our designs. To begin with, we will introduce designs
limited our product range to that market only. We have put
inspired by Indian culture, similar to those presented at the
too much effort into creating good relationships on other
show, but I hope that, with time, it will be possible to interest
markets to forget them for the sake of a quick gain. That’s
the Indians in European designs as well. We believe that it
why our product range is so varied and includes jewellery for
will be similar to the situation with the Chinese market,
clients from different countries and of different financial status.
where a few years ago we presented jewellery based on
We have been observing markets and one thing is certain and
beads and necklaces with large stones, and now Chinese ladies
constant: women at each longitude dream about attractive
more and more often buy other designs from our product range.
jewellery and must have a choice in each price range. We
ranges – both very expensive and relatively cheap. Our designs comprise about 80 % of the products stocked, however, in order not to be so monotonous, we also offer products of other companies and designers. You design, produce and sell jewellery with amber, but you also promote knowledge about this stone – in one of your galleries there is an Amber Museum. SC: The first Bursztynek gallery and a small exhibition of amber that accompanied it were created in 2012, and the second gallery and Amber Museum were opened three fulfil that dream and, at the same time, we prove to them that
years later. The space of over 300m2 and the location in the
jewellery with amber can be both beautiful and fashionable.
immediate vicinity of the Old Town have given us a lot of
Those designs – in different price ranges, and in unique
possibilities. Thus, we are fulfilling our dream about creating
series – are mostly Agata’s creations.
a friendly place with a good atmosphere, where meetings
AC: This is what we have decided. I have always had the
with interesting people, as well as amber workshops and
impression that it all simply happens by itself... Not all designs
exhibitions take place. They show amber as seen through
work, and not all work immediately. A good example of this is
the eyes of artists and craftsmen as well as scientists. In the
our African necklace, which initially was deemed as too large,
nearest future, we would like to organise also cyclic shows
however after two years so many clients have ordered it that
in the old town area, in which the best Polish jewellery and
it has become one of our most distinguishable designs – both
fashion designers would take part. There is a lot happening
in Poland and abroad.
already, and there is more and more to come!
To wait a few years until a design becomes popular,
it’s a real luxury. AC: As we can see, many things function completely
The company was founded in 1999 continuing the
differently for us... In our catalogue we have about 600 necklace
amber traditions that originate from 1967. It specialises in
designs alone. It happens that we get a commission for let’s
silver jewellery with amber, and amber combined with other
say orders of 5–6 pieces of 130 designs, which is not beneficial
jewellery stones. The founders – Agata and Stanisław Całka
from the economic point of view. I have tried to replace a part
graduated from the University of Art and Design – they are
of the older designs with new ones, but we continue to get
exponents of modern design inspired by nature and geometry.
orders for them. We fulfil all of them, regardless of their size
Their works in that field were granted the Award of the Minister
and profitability. We also replace the goods with new ones if
of Economy in 2013, and a year later a prestigious Teraz Polska
the old ones don’t sell out – perhaps it will be easier for the
(Poland Now) Polish Promotional Emblem for companies
new ones to find a buyer...? We respect all of our clients.
distinguished by the highest quality and exceptionally high
In 2014, 70 % of Amber-Ring’s products ended up
export potential. The prestige of both awards has resulted in
abroad. What are the proportions like currently?
increased recognisability of the company and has strengthened
SC: Today it looks a bit different. We currently have two
the brand. Currently their products are exported mainly to
retail shops in Warsaw, we have tightened our cooperation
European countries, but they also reach the Asian, American
with the largest chain shops in Poland, thus the proportions
and Arabic markets.
have changed to the Polish market’s advantage. We sell about 60–70 % of our products in Poland – even if in most cases the buyers are tourists, mostly Spanish, Italians, and Americans. The come to our shop because our product range is really diverse – contrary to the majority of shops and galleries with amber, whose product range is prepared with the Chinese customer in mind. AC: Variety has turned out to be our asset yet again. In our galleries Bursztynek (Little Amber) we have modern jewellery,
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
attractive to every woman and available in different price
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Carousel – silver, granates, fabric; distinction Presentations 2008
A CRAFTSMAN IS AS GOOD AS A DESIGNER Interview with Iwona MROWCZYNSKA by Anna SADO
participants’ works showed a really high level. It is easier to lose with such a “competition” (smiles). Do you often take part in competitions?
Winner of the first prize in the competition “Presentations” 2016 claims that professional love for jewellery can be expressed in different ways – and they are all just as good!
I try to do it at least once a year. I am trying to thus impose certain discipline, to mobilise for more conceptual thinking than is necessary in my daily work. Every day I perform more craft work that only sometimes offers the possibility of artistic realisation, doing something on my own, and not
“NI” is the title of your winning piece of work. Why
only implementing client’s vision. Clients’ positive assessment
such a title? Where does your inspiration come from?
and satisfaction are certainly important to me, but I need
“NI” means the first two letters of my one-year-old
confrontation with the world of designers and artists, I need
daughter’s name. This is my first competition project after
to be assessed by professional community. It motivates me to
her birth, and that is why I dedicated it to her. Where did the
make an effort, it also brings me a lot of satisfaction when my
idea come from? I was inspired by a gold custom-made ring
work is honoured or rewarded. And especially when I receive
encrusted with a large diamond. When producing it, I proceeded
congratulations from respective persons. You have an artistic education but do craft work. Is
from thick elements twisted around each other – I liked that
that a conscious decision?
arrangement. And I reflected it in my work, whose form, through
Not really conscious but very good decision, as it turned
the use of silver, could be more spatial and a little crazy. Were you expecting this award?
out. At some stage of work in the art jewellery studio, I gained
I have to admit that I hoped to get a distinction (smiles).
conviction that it is difficult to come up with something new
But if I hadn’t got it, I wouldn’t feel aggrieved because other
in this area. And yet this glut of accessories, which devalue
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT Slapstick – silver and white sugar crystals; diploma project 2005
jewellery... I accepted an offer to work at the gold plant
new every day and realise how much more I can learn. Creating
believing a little paradoxically that it would be different. And
patterns in my own studio is usually determined by the skills
it is different! Apparently I am doing similar or even the same
acquired so far. In my job I have to constantly learn new things
things, however, they are still new and exciting for me. Even if
in order to cope with new professional challenges. Craft work is
I have to set 150 stones a day – they all look like the same but
surely different form the design work, but certainly not worse. Statistically, love lasts about 5 years, and your love to
each is a little different, each must be approached individually.
gems lasts 3 years…
And when I hold stones so beautiful and valuable in my hands, which sometimes even jewellers have not seen throughout
I hope this love will never end. And that I will still face a lot
many years of their work, I am just happy. I love to look at them
of professional challenges – both in craft and jewellery design.
and consider the way they can be set best to emphasize their
The forthcoming challenge is now to explore the secrets of
glow. It is like working with living matter. I have been falling
enamel. I need it to create a little contrast for my beloved stones.
in love with stones for 3 years – every day more and more. Do you miss conceptual jewellery, creating something that is your own to express yourself? No. I produce conceptual works for competitions, which satisfy my need for artistic self-expression. I used to think that designer’s work is based on inventing interesting patterns to delight the world, and I really liked that vision. But then it turned out that a designer is not only a designer in his company, but also a modeller, accountant, salesman, marketing specialist... At some point, it turned out that everything underlying my decision to engage in professional jewellery in fact was pushed aside. Formalities and fund-raising for all those bills prove to be much more important... This is so frustrating! For that reason the idea proved to be good for me. I got rid of a lot of the stress related
“NI” the “Presentations” 2016 awarded ring of Iwona MRÓWCZYŃSKA
to the administration, I do my dream job, I learn something
GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Necklace aquamarine with 18k gold, Günter Weinz GmbH, Kirschweiler
ON COURSE FOR the INTERGEM 2022 Report by INTERGEM PRESS office
“This year’s INTERGEM from 30 eptember to 3 October is a key step on the path to the relaunch of the fair by 2022,” the fair's Managing Director, Kai-Uwe Hille, is convinced. “It begins with the date, which we have consciously placed on the public holiday celebrating German unity, thus giving as many store owners as possible the opportunity to visit the fair.” Because the key objective is clear: the INTERGEM wants and needs more visitors. In five to six years the figure should stand at around 5,000. “A realistic number, which we already managed to reach in the past,” says the fair manager. The target of 170 exhibitors also lies well within the realms of possibility, with this number present for the inauguration of the new fair hall in 2009. Last year featured 130 exhibitors and 3,200 visitors, a slight upwards trend.
Tansanit in trillion form 16,04 ct., Groh + Ripp, Idar-Oberstein
agenda of numerous measures exists to achieve these goals. The first of these will come into effect
this year. The aim is to increase the analysis of visitor potential in the key markets in Europe and overseas before sending out targeted VIP invitations. “As an exclusive speciality fair, the INTERGEM enjoys an outstanding reputation worldwide,” says Kai-Uwe Hille.“We aim to build upon this with our measures.” For example, visitor management is to be developed further with partners from the trade in the form of mailing campaigns tailored to target groups. In addition, the plan is to use attractive offers to invite purchasing delegations with especially affluent customers. Because the fair managers are not focused merely on attracting the sheer number of 5,000 visitors, but on ensuring that the right buyers come to IdarOberstein at the end of September. The INTERGEM is already a familiar event in trade circles, both nationally and internationally. The strength of the location is also that of the fair as a showcase. The aim now is to establish it as the flagship of the gemstone community. The close co-operation with the local industry and associated know-how already makes the INTERGEM unique of its kind in the world. It is the most important date in autumn for all those familiar with the industry. “We are a hidden champion, a secret global market leader,” says Kai-Uwe Hille. Because insiders know: the range and concentration of gemstones and know-how is unique here. First-class contacts with the sites and individual mines as well as treasures in their own gemstone stocks mean that the exhibitors are able to satisfy the demand for coveted varieties that are no longer to be found on the world market. In addition, an attractive support programme addresses exciting new themes each year.
The middle of January saw the presentation of the AGENDA
2022 IN IDAR-OBERSTEIN. OVER 60 VISITORS CAME,
including numerous former exhibitors and new companies not yet represented at the INTERGEM. “The event clearly showed that our new orientation is the right way to go,” says Kai-Uwe Hille. “Now we need to involve all exhibitors and relevant institutions in a prompt and effective manner.”
Sept. 30 - Oct. 03
NORWEGIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Image courtesy of The Norwegian University of Science and Technology (NTNU)
DRESSED UP WITH BLING STOLEN IN VIKING RAIDS By SCIENCE DAILY
was originally used as a fitting for a horse's harness, but holes at the bottom and traces of rust from a needle on the back show
When a female Norwegian Viking died some time during the 9th century, she was buried wearing a status symbol: a beautiful piece of bronze jewellery worn on her traditional Norse dress.
that it had probably been turned into a brooch at a later stage. But how did a fitting from an Irish horse's harness end up as a brooch for a Norwegian Viking woman?
TOOK THE JEWELLERY TO HER GRAVE Aina Margrethe Heen Pettersen is a doctoral student at
the summer of 2016, 1200 years after her death, the
the Norwegian University of Science and Technology's (NTNU)
piece of jewellery was found by chance at Agdenes
Department of Historical Studies and works with finds brought
farm, at the outermost part of the Trondheim Fjord in mid-
to Norway during the Viking age. She will now study the bronze
Norway. The well-preserved object is an ornament with a bird
brooch more closely, which is has been curated and preserved
figure that has fish- or dolphin-like patterns on both â&#x20AC;&#x153;wings.â&#x20AC;?
by the NTNU University Museum.
The decorations suggest that the jewellery was made in a Celtic
She explains that fittings like this were popular among the
workshop, most likely in Ireland, in the 8th or 9th century. It
Norwegian Vikings who took part in the first raids to the British
originally attached to horse harnesses, like in this case, or to
Agdenes is strategically located at the south end of
religious items such as books, crosiers or altar decorations.
the mouth of the Trondheim Fjord, where it meets the
“A housewife in Mid-Norway probably received the
Trondheimsleia Strait. The place is mentioned several times in
fitting as a gift from a family member who took part in one
the Norse sagas as a gathering place where ships with warriors
or more Viking raids to Ireland or Great Britain. When she died,
met before their journey continued.
the jewellery was given to her as a burial gift. It has stayed
Traces of King Øystein's Harbour, which was established
underground until it was found by chance this summer,” Heen
for military and defense reasons early in the 12th century, are
found just next to Agdenes farm, where the bronze brooch was
She adds that almost all of the similar finds from this era
discovered. The harbour validates the strategic location of the
that have been discovered in Norway have been found in
place. It is possible that the area served as a natural gathering
women's graves that date from the first half of the 9 century,
or stopping place for ships sailing from the Trondheim Fjord
to the British Isles.
when the Vikings began to plunder the British Isles.
From Mid-Norway, ships probably followed the coastline southwards before
VISUAL STATUS SYMBOLS
they crossed the open ocean across the
Being part of the early Viking raids
North Sea. If the weather was nice and the
brought status and prestige to the
wind came from the right direction, they
individuals who participated, but also
could sail from the southwest of Norway
to their families. The men who returned
to the east coast of England or Scotland in just a couple of days.
them at home. The fittings were then
Doctoral student Aina Margrethe HEEN PETTERSEN at the Department of Historical Studies at NTNU will conduct more research on the bronze brooch, which is preserved and maintained by the NTNU University Museum.
turned into jewellery, and were worn on
Photo: Åge HOJEM/NTNU University Museum
THE GRAVE HAS BEEN DISTURBED
alive from the dangerous journeys gave the objects they had stolen as gifts to female family members who waited for
traditional Norse clothing as brooches, pendants or belt fittings.
The Viking women who owned this kind of jewellery WERE
“As a result, it became clear to everyone that those women had family members who had taken part in successful expeditions far away. There are traces of gold on the surface of the jewellery, so it was originally covered in gold. It therefore appeared to be more valuable than it actually was. In addition, each piece of jewelry was unique, so the owner did not risk having the housewife next door turn up with the same piece of jewellery,” Heen Pettersen says.
TYPICALLY BURIED WITH GRAVE GIFTS SUCH AS TORTOISESHAPED BROOCHES, PEARLS, A KNIFE AND A SPINNING WHEEL, in addition to
jewelry made from stolen fittings
Jewellery of this kind has typically
If they were surprised by bad weather, the journey could be fatal.
According to Heen Pettersen, the bronze brooch was found by a private individual with a metal detector, so it is not a find from an archaeological site. The jewellery was not found in the original grave, which indicates that the grave at some point had been disturbed – for example during ploughing or other farming activities. The Viking women who owned this kind of jewellery were typically buried with grave gifts such as tortoise-shaped brooches, pearls, a knife and a spinning wheel, in addition to jewelry made from stolen fittings.
been found in women's graves with
“The new find from Agdenes farm
relatively few other burial gifts. This suggests that many of the
shows that the area was populated in the first part of the Viking
Vikings who took part in raids far away did not represent the
Age. Even though it is a random find, it is a nice reminder that
top layer of the social hierarchy. Instead, they were “nouveau
Mid-Norway was involved in the early contact with the British
riche” farmers and fishermen who got the opportunity to climb
Isles,” says Heen Pettersen.
the social ladder by taking part in Viking raids.
NORWEGIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Isles, at the very beginning of the Viking age. The fittings were
93-204 ŁÓDŹ, UL. ZAPOLSKIEJ 7, POLAND / Tel. (+48) 603881897 / E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org
SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Baltic countries are welcome to Stockholm this autumn
Golden Opportunities at Precious 2017 Report by PRECIOUS Press Office
continues to strengthen its
tools, wrapping, boxes, security solutions and supplementary
position as the natural meeting
products used by the industry.
ground for the Nordic watch and jewellery industry. During
STATISTICS FROM PRECIOUS 2016:
three days exhibitors and visitors get enough business,
competence and inspiration for the whole year. Precious 2017 will present new exiting brands while many
of their trusted exhibitors choose to go in bigger than ever. The most recent information also points to a growing interest from visitors – both domestic and international.
– No other fair in the Nordic countries can present such a
The fair hosted 178 exhibitors from 11 different countries.. A total of 384 brands were represented at the fair. The number of unique visitors was 3 387, an increase by 6,3 percent. The number of companies represented by the visitors
vast range of meetings between people in the business, says
increased for the fifth year in a row, reaching 906. 98
Åsa Axelson, Project Manager, and she welcomes all visitors
of them came from other countries than Sweden, an
and exhibitors from Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania.
increase by 32,4 %.
Precious – Stockholm Nordic Watch & Jewellery Fair 8–10 September 2017, Stockholmsmässan www.preciousfair.se
VOICES FROM PRECIOUS 2016: “A fantastic fun weekend in Stockholm. For three days we looked on jewelry, tried new tools, talked to a lot of interesting people and got to know the industry even better. Now, back to the workshop with new ideas and visions.”
PRECIOUS – FOR WHOM?
”What a rewarding weekend! Now all autumn news are
Precious is the trade fair to visit for purchasers in the watch
ordered and will arrive shortly.”
and jewellery industry, designers, craftsmen and stylists. At
”After a great fun weekend in Stockholm we are now back
Precious, you will meet existing and new watch and jewellery
in the store full of insipration. The store is getting cleaned and
distributors as well as providers of precious stones, machinery,
our shelves will fill up with news!”
opportunities The Nordic Watch & Jewellery Fair 8-10 September 2017
p r e c i o u s fa i r . s e
Group portrait; Malin LÖVGREN, Linnéa ERIKSSON, Karin Roy ANDERSSON, Hanna LILJENBERG, 2016. Photo: Lasse KARLSSON
FOUR: WE CONNECT INSIDERS AND OUTSIDERS OF “CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERY BUBBLE” Interview with Karin Roy ANDERSON by Odilija GUNTORIUTE
SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Karin, thank you for agreeing to give us an interview. Could you introduce yourself and your colleagues
who started this project with you? What brought you together? Four consists of Hanna Liljenberg, Malin Lövgren, Linnéa Eriksson and me. We met each other during our education at HDK (Academy of Design and Craft) in Gothenburg. In 2010 we found a place in Linnéstaden in the central parts of Gothenburg where we could both work and sell our pieces and decided to start Four. Working as an artist can be quite lonely and to me a strong team of colleagues is crucial in order to keep on going. Me and the other three work in different ways and with different focus but our collaboration works very well. Behind the gallery we have the workshop and it’s great to get feedback from each other when doing own artistic work. Before we opened Four I had spent 6 month working with the Klimt02-team in Barcelona. It had opened my eyes to the wonderful international world of contemporary jewellery.I started to invite artists who I admire, writing them mails explaining why I wanted to show their work to the Gothenburg’s audience. I guess my very honest flattery was an efficient way to make them accept the invitation. Today I am the one managing the gallery, but I always have a good support from my partners.
When did you create Four? What would your advise
be for jewellery artist, who want to organize events
Linnéa ERIKSSON, necklace, Connect, 2016, steel, oxidized silver, spray paint.
to spread the word about art jewellery, how would you
Photo: Linnéa ERIKSSON
encourage them? Four opened in September 2010. I would say that collaboration is the key – finding people that you can work with. I think it is very hard to do everything yourself – unless
Karin Roy ANDERSSON, necklace, Swans, 2016, recycled plastics (food trays), steel, silver, paint, thread, 24x21x3,5 cm.
you have a really fat wallet. My second advise would be to trust
Photo: Karin Roy ANDERSSON
your intuition. If you think that something is precious, clever
and exciting other people will also get interested. You just have to find the right audience and the right way to present this to them.
Four is not just a gallery it’s a platform for discussions about art, jewellery, work and inspiration. What
encouraged you to create such a concept? Jewellery as an art form is not a well-known concept in Gothenburg – or in Sweden. I do a lot of different project where the main goal is to change that situation. I believe contemporary jewellery needs both places where jewellers and well-initiated jewellery fans can go into nerdy discussions about expressions or details of the technique, and places
SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT
the Swedish artist Rut-Malin Barklund. She placed big parts of her studio in the gallery and during the coming weeks she made it her workshop. The project Rut-Malin was working on was an investigation of chains. The visitors could take part of the process both through her mood board on the wall, the already finished pieces on display and they could also see new pieces develop. This was a good way of opening up for communication and I felt like it changed the dynamics and brought new energy to Four.
Malin LÖVGREN, ring, 2013, silver labradorite, rosequartz, moonstone. Photo: Malin LÖVGREN
What can we expect from Four in 2017? Where are you going with your project?
We have a very interesting year ahead of us! First up
is a show with Flora Vagi. Flora describes her pieces as where contemporary jewellery is served in a way that attracts
‘newly dressed souls’ and that is exactly what they are.
people that has no idea of why you should visit Munich in
She works mostly in natural materials like paper or wood,
March and don’t think of alpaca as anything else than a furry
but she turns them into something new. Flora has an
animal. At Four I try to create something that is accessible for
impressive skill of finding and bringing out the soul of the
a wide audience and at the same time interesting for patrons.
material, a new identity that it has been longing to show.
We put a lot of effort in creating a relaxed atmosphere that
In March we will make a retrospective showing the
invites and inspires students, collectors, creators and people
10year career of Benjamin Lignel. The majority of Four’s
outside the “Contemporary Jewellery bubble” to experience
artists would probably say that the hands are their most
and discuss jewellery – an intimate gallery space for meetings
important tools, but in Benjamin Lignel’s case the head
plays a more prominent role. His work carries a sharp,
but often also affectionate humour and it comments on From your past events, which one was your
appearance, body image, jewellery and what it symbolizes.
favourite? How does it represent what Four is?
In April we will make a collaboration with the German based
It is impossible to choose only one favourite exhibition –
artists Attai Chen and Carina Shoshtary. They are coming for
I have many – but in September 2015 we had an exhibition with
an a.i.r in Gothenburg and during one month they will work together with the me, Hanna Liljenberg, Sanna Svedestedt Carboo and Åsa Christensson on a project that will be shown and partly executed at Four. Last year when I visited Munich I saw the fantastic work
Hanna LILJENBERG, brooch, Untitled, 2016, black burned iron, oil paint, varnish, steel.
by Yojae Lee and in May we are very happy to get a visit from
Photo: Hanna LILJENBERG
this South Korean artist. Yojae creates insects in a size that changes the relationship to the wearer. The robotic creatures are both captivating and terrifying. By mixing different types of metals and leather her artwork captures you both figuratively and literally. In the fall we have three solo shows with Mia Maljojoki, Tanel Veenre and Karin Johansson. They are all well recognized artists. Mia Maljojoki’s work has a direct and spontaneous expression. The pieces might seem like they were created by accident, but the composition is balanced and carefully planned. Well-directed but unpredictable processes are refined with intuition and long artistic experience. She puts together strong colours and shapes with an elegance that creates harmony in a bold chaos.
SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT From Rut-Malin BARKLUNDS exhibition Investigation of Chains, September 2015
Street view, Nordhemsgatan 74, Göteborg
Tanel Veenre – one of the brightest stars in the jewellery
stylized butterfly shape will, on a closer look, show an
universe – brings up creatures from the depths of the oceans
impressive depth. The wings carry a detailed pattern and if
and covers them with a shimmer from distant galaxies. He
you take it in your hand, you discover that it is not a fragile
combines musical tones with aesthetics and poetry, creating
insect, but a solid metal object. And one of her colourful, vivid
a magical, magnetic world that attracts and captivates.
necklaces will slow down when you take it off, and when it hangs on a wall it becomes a poetic work of art.
The grand finale will be an exhibition with Karin Johansson. I find her work a bit difficult to describe. It holds lightness and
weight, playfulness and gravity, spontaneity and carefully balanced planning. What appears to be a two-dimensional
What are you most looking forward to in 2017? I am looking so much forward to all of the shows! I will
be getting some of my absolute favourite artists to the gallery – the ones I think are the most interesting, intelligent and skilled. All of them will come to Gothenburg for the openings, and
as if being great artists wasn’t enough they are all wonderful
FRANK VERKADE’S EXHIBITION,
people so I think what I actually look forward to the most is
to meet them.
FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Saimaa University of Applied Sciences
VISITING IMATRA'S FINE ART SCHOOL By Antonio ALTARRIBA
Saimaa University of Applied Sciences is an
also a jewellery artist, who participates actively in international
institute of higher education in Southeastern
exhibitions alone or with the group called Hibernate. Around
Finland in the cities of Lappeenranta and Imatra. It offers
the coffee table there was also Jenni Sokura, who is in charge of
degrees in five fields and in twenty degree programmes. The
the jewellery workshop. Sokura is the chairman of the Finnish
Department of Fine Art is located in Imatra. It is possible to
Jewellery Art association and there were two students of
study printmaking, painting, photography, sculpture and
jewellery art, Reeta Suvanto and Kalle Heikkilä who are at the
jewellery art. The city of Imatra has about 30.000 inhabitants
third year of their art studies.
and it is known among other things by its Rapids, the Art
Eija MUSTONEN: This is the only university in Finland
Nouveau hotel (Valtionhotelli), Alvar Aalto's church, “Koru” art
where Fine Art students can make their final work of their
jewellery triennial at the art museum, the international theatre
bachelor's degree in jewellery art. When students enter the Fine
festival (Black&White) and for its paper and metal industry. The
Art programme during the first year they get acquainted with
distance from Imatra to Helsinki is about 250 km.
all techniques of art, after that they can choose or intermingle
In a misty afternoon of January I went to Imatra to meet
different paths. It is after them. We do not force anyone. It is
Eija Mustonen, the manager of the Fine Art Programme, she is
the students free choice. The bachelers degree is visual artist. If during the BA programme some student wants tolearn a specific technique that's not available in our department, let's say some special technique on goldsmithing, we can organize that that student can get a workshop in another university or have an exchange. Also we have a wide range of international exchanges programmes with other institutions. We are very open minded! Jenni SOKURA: Usually Fine Art education in upper secondary school deals with drawing and painting, of course, it depends on the teacher. When students enter our Fine Art programme there are manytechniques new for them, they are like sailing at the open sea everything is new and big. It takes
"Ow!" – Necklace: White opal, rope and band-aid, 2016
time before they settle down and they find there own technique
FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT Reeta SUVANTO, sorrowrings
for artistic expression. Our fundamental courses should inspire students to try new ways and forms of approach. Usually new students know nothing about jewellery art and as a teacher I keep the firing burning. I want to remark that here we approach jewellery artistically, not for designing object, anyhow it can be related to the body. Kalle HEIKKILĂ&#x201E;: I'm very happy of having entered the programme of Fine Art in this school, I knew nothing about jewellery art. I do not know if I'm going to do the Master's Degree, first I have to finish my BA. I cannot tell about any guru either I would not like to raise a name over another, but surely every workshop has its effects on students also on me. Reeta SUVANTO: Even is early to say about my future, but I want to get my Master's Degree whether in Finland or abroad. They are possibilities to go to Sweden, Germany and so on. The best of the school is that is small, about a hundred students for the BA and ten for the MA. This means that we have a very good relationship with the staff and specially the one's who has choosen jewellery for the final work. I would say about ten per cent of the whole school, so we are like a family. You can ask anything at anytime! Our conversation is getting to an end and my conclusion is that this small Fine Art Department offers great things with flexibility with enthusiasm.Sometimes being small has an advantage!
AIM DISPLAY POLISH MANUFACTURER OF DISPLAYS, ETUI, BUSTS AND TRAYS FOR EXPOSITION, SALES AND STORAGE OF JEWELLERY PL
ul. Taborowa 24, 02-699 Warszawa, Poland, T/F: +48 226449815
ESTONIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Interview with the CHAIRMAN OF AMBER TRIP ART JEWELLERY CONTEST 2016
Jaan Parn, congratulations on winning third place in
I could not realize it was impossible and so I graduated from
the Amber Trip art jewellery contest. Could you tell us
architectural studies in 1976. I returned to the institute in 1978
more about your idea in relation to the theme “My Home”?
and graduated as a jewellery designer in 1982.
Idea of my object presented at Amber Trip 2016 was
homes and go to have a better life or even adventures
abroad. They will leave behind the old fences of farmhouses,
taught at a high level for more than 90 years. Moreover, in
cemeteries, milk-jugs, sunny childhood (amber) etc. Lots of
some areas of Estonia the national costumes contain about
young Estonians are going to Australia to live and to work;
7 kg of silver jewellery pieces! Estonians are good craftsmen
similarly, I was born in a little town Sindi. This is why you see
and behind the “iron curtains” we had to develop our art
there the names Sindi – Sydney.
ourselves. It does not mean that we were not influenced by
our neighbours, but Estonian design was very independent
"emigration" (even for a short period). Lots of people move from country-side to big cities, lots of them will leave their
How do you think Estonian art jewellery differs from the rest of Europe?
Estonian jewellery design has a long tradition; it has been
How did you become a jewellery designer?
for quite a long time.
I made my first “jewellery” pieces when I was 14 years
in Estonia and in other countries (mostly socialist Eastern
European countries of that time) and I WANTED to become a
from the women I work for and from the semi-precious stones
jewellery artist. In 1971 I moved to Tallinn to start my studies,
and other materials like shell, wood, corals, pearls etc., as I
but the competition to enter the Jewellery department of
create my jewellery piece around them. The nature is the best
our State Art Institute (now Estonian Academy of Arts) was
artist, I just add a little bit of my knowledge. In my work I use
very high (10 persons per 1 place). I entered the Architectural
only silver or gold, as precious work must be done by using
department and dreamed to “jump over” during the first year.
old. These chains and small necklaces made of copper or brass wire and also several decorative wall pieces were exhibited
Where do you take inspiration for your design? With which materials do you like to work the most?
I get my inspiration from my architectural background,
ESTONIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
How did you start working with amber?
At the end of Soviet time there was nothing in the jewellery
Amber became more relevant in my life 7–8 years
shops except amber! Many colleagues of mine in Estonia
ago, when I got a gift from my Latvian friends. I make my
believe that nobody will buy amber jewellery and so it is not
work from natural pieces of amber as every piece is different
profitable to work with it. It is not true! Natural amber is a
and it preserves its old beauty. Tallinn is full of amber from
very beautiful material and becomes more and more popular
Kaliningrad and some tourists believe that amber is Estonian
again, as I have seen on my exhibitions in Germany, Italy and
national material. We have never found amber in Estonia, but I
etc. For the young people the price of amber can be too high
like this material as I like different agates and mother-of-pearl.
and there are not so many places to buy it. Also young artists
very often like to make “contemporary art”, where very often As a teacher of art jewellery, could you share your
“a piece of jewellery” is even too big for a female elephant.
thoughts how to promote amber among young
Where to get so much amber?!
people? How to encourage young jewellers to work with amber?
LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
“LYING AWAKE” –
Contemporary Jewellery Exhibition By Two Emerging Latvian Jewellery Artists
ALISE TĀLBERGA and MAIJA VĪTOLA
Press release by PUTTI ART Gallery
Alise TĀLBERGA, earrings – copper, paint
March 24 until April 15, 2017 Art gallery Putti presents contemporary jewellery
exhibition by two emerging Latvian jewellery artists Alise Tālberga and Maija Vītola – “Lying awake”. Alise Tālberga and Maija Vītola are connected by studies in Latvian Academy of Arts and active participation in art jewellery world. The concept of the exhibition has a purpose of stimulating philosophical contemplation about the world, which we encounter in early childhood, the world that is full of metaphors and life lessons – fairy tale kingdom. The information locked in fairy tales is displayed through symbols – by interpreting it the artists invite to pay attention to the inner world of human beings and spiritual values that should be cherished and developed. The stage design of the exhibition “Lying awake” transforms Art gallery Putti into a space that holds the birth of artists` ideas and dreams materialize into jewellery pieces, visualizing the emotions and atmosphere of jewellery making process. There is an opinion that the life of jewellery piece begins in the moment when the new owner starts to wear it. That is the moment when a dream transforms into reality. The exhibition will be on display until April 15, 2017. Maija VĪTOLA , ring – silver, ebony, carved bone
LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
False Amber at Liepaja Seaside: SOVIET HERITAGE KEEPS POSING A THREAT Each year, the State Burn Centre of Riga Eastern Clinical University Hospital (RECUH) admits two to three people suffering burns as a result of finding a piece of phosphorus resembling amber that was washed ashore. Specialists explain that false amber ignition may cause serious and deep thermal burns; therefore, the respective service agencies are to be informed if false amber is found.
the Soviet occupation, large amounts
Once false amber has ignited, immediately get rid of
of white phosphorus were dumped
it and take off burning clothing. It is critical that burns are
into the Baltic Sea near the Western Coast of Latvia. The Soviet
promptly immersed in cold water for 15â&#x20AC;&#x201C;20 minutes since it
army used phosphorus in making explosives and military
helps prevent further thermal effect and rinse off chemical
trainings at the shooting range in Pape. Staying in water for
agents. Afterwards, it is necessary to seek medicinal help
a long time makes white phosphorus look like amber; this is
from the GP, at the nearest medical facility or the State Burn
why it was called false amber.
Centre. If burns are severe, immediately contact the Emergency
According to the information provided by the hospital
Medical Service by calling 113.
to the news portal TVNET, each year the State Burn Centre of
In turn, Liepaja Regional Environmental Board (REB) of
RECUH admits two to three people suffering burns as a result
the State Environmental Service (SES) has for many years not
of finding a piece of phosphorus resembling amber that was
been informed of the cases of people suffering burns or being
blown up by false amber, i.e. phosphorus, washed ashore in
As a rule, having found the so-called false amber, the finder
the Liepaja area. In recent weeks, such accidents have also
puts it into a pocket, and after some time the body heat causes
not occurred. The SES points out that at present there is no
it to ignite as a result of which clothing starts burning and a
apparent phosphorous pollution at Liepaja seaside; therefore,
person suffers burns.
neither the SES, nor Liepaja REB and the municipality plan any
More often than not, people find false amber on the
clean-up and collection activities.
beach line between Bernati and Liepaja and many of them,
At the beginning of the last week, photographs possibly
if suffer burns, have recourse to Liepaja Regional Hospital.
depicting flared up false amber appeared in social networks. The
Patients are transferred from Liepaja hospital to the State
SES points out that said substance might as well be unexploded
Burn Centre in severe cases only. However, there are patients
fireworks, some sort of dye or mordant. Nevertheless, if we
who immediately go to the State Burn Centre which is the only
assume that said substance was phosphorus, people under
specialised thermal burn centre in Latvia.
no circumstances should pick it up, touch or keep in a pocket.
â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Ignition of false amber causes thermal and chemical
The SES specialists emphasise that such finding should
burns that may be very serious and deep. In severe cases,
be reported either to the municipal police or SES inspectors.
skin grafting is usually required and treatment may last
In such a situation, the mobile application Environmental SOS
several months, explains Sergejs Smirnovs, Traumatologist
downloaded on a mobile phone may be useful since it gives
and Combustiologist of the State Burn Centre.
the possibility to promptly send to the SES not only visual
The difference between phosphorus and amber is that this
information but also site location coordinates. It will make
chemical substance is not as transparent as amber. Specialists
identification and prevention of a threat considerably easier.
emphasise that if you are not sure that a pebble found on the
On the SES homepage, it is possible to follow how each of
beach is real amber, it is better not to pick it up.
such situations is handled.
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Amber Trip fashion show
“IF NOT ME, THEN WHO?” By Maryte DOMINAITĖ
at Estonian Institute of Art
I enamelled badges provided
lasted five years. At the Metal
an opportunity to use enamel
department we got theoretical and practical knowledge about
instead of stone; and invitations
artistic processing of metal from smithery to the subtlety of
to participate in exhibitions of
filligree strands. In my opinion, patience and inner peace are
enamel art encouraged to create
main assistants in the jeweller‘s work. During the placement in
compositions of a larger format to
Saint-Petersburg factory “Ruskije samocviety” I grinded stones.
compensate the lack of colours.
Acquired knowledge helped to create and produce stones of
I had courage to implement
non-traditional form for my final thesis. The variety of stone
my ideas guided by the slogan
colours enriched moderate compositions of metal colours.
“if not me, then who?”. I can use
Manufacturing placement in Vilnius Combine “Art” where
the phrase “for the first time” to describe my social activities. For the first time in 1984 in Lithuania, LITEXPO hall the exhibition of enamel art of the Soviet Union artists was organised. Other alternative to trivial ideas of amber use was symposium “Amber” that was held for the first time in Palanga creative work house in 1990. The group of cogenials who completed their studies in Tallinn, met in Palanga and discussed issues and analysed circumstances that understated the significance of amber as a raw material for jewellery. They decided to try and reveal the distinctive beauty of this material in a different way. For the first time in 1991 in the Museum of Applied Arts (Arsenal) the exhibition “Amber in a different way” by the symposium participants was held; similarly, as Lithuania was moving towards freedom it set amber free from establised standards of mass production and provided an opportunity to use it in creative work respectfully, and to open new galleries of modern amber. I hope that
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT exhibitions-competitions, creative and experimental camps
diamond. We adapted the image of angel Magė from the 1984
can open unexpected and interesting opportunities for amber
poster dedicated to a Soviet enamel exhibition.
I have participated in various jury commissions, have been
For the first time in the independent Lithuania, in 1992 the
a collection curator who presented works by the Lithuanian
enamel art symposium was organised by Lithuanians (it had
artists at international events, I also organised exhibitions
been organised by Moscow before) in Palanga creative work
myself and participated in city events. Of course, social
house; later on – an international triennial exhibition of enamel
activities require a lot of time, but patience that has been
art was held in Klaipėda exhibition hall, artists from 37 countries
trained since childhood is of a great help. Now I understand
took part in the event. Unfortunately, due to unfavourable
that helping my mother to untangle confused threads was a
economic situation in Lithuania I was not able to get funds for
certain way of meditation that helped to focus thoughts and
organising further events. Over time a famous Limoges biennial
find time for my own creative work with a wide spectrum
of enamel art that was well-known worldwide disappeared. It
of themes: enamel plaques, amber work, jewellery, pastel,
was replaced by Lithuania. Since 2005 international enamel
glass and other objects. Lack of time makes you select and
art biennials, exhibitions-competitions “Vilnius” have been
implement only the most interesting ideas, while destroying
organised in the gallery “Meno Niša“ and curated by me. This
failed projects and starting them over again.
autumn the sevenths biennial will be held. The main requirement to the participants is to exhibit works that have never been
You can find more information about
shown in Lithuania before and have been created not earlier
INTERNATIONAL BIENNIAL OF ENAMEL ART VILNIUS 2017 at:
than two years ago by using high temperature enamels. Creative works are divided to three categories: flat (plaques), volume (objects) and jewellery. International jury selects laureates
and the main prize is the golden brooch of angel Magė with a
JEWELLERY BECOMES PRECIOUS,
WHEN IT SPREADS WARMTH TO ITS OWNER Interview with Ernesta STATKUTE
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Tell us about yourself; is jewellery a hobby or a profession for you, who did engage you with this field? I have always enjoyed creative work. In reality, many
people have known me as an interior designer. I graduated from Vilnius College where I studied design; later I continued studies in Florence academy of design. So first of all, I am an interior designer; however, I can truly say that I also have laid a foundation for jewellery. Simply, I had a lot of ideas that I wished to realise in practice in this field. I did not want to forget those ideas; therefore, I started to work hard and implemented them. So this is how jewellery appeared in my life. I think it is not a mistake to say that jewellery is the field that fascinates any woman and men are also not indifferent to it. So I am involved both in interior design and jewellery, and those two fields perfectly complement each other. According to art researcher Ken Robinson, “creativity and original and valuable ideas often come when you see the world from different perspectives.” I completely agree with it. Coming back to jewellery theme I should add that recently I have graduated from Vilnensis jewellery school where I’ve studied secrets of jewellery from jeweller Darijus Gerlikas, and Tadas Deksnys introduced enamel techniques. I wish that every work of mine would be permeated by positive energy, because only if jewellery spreads warmth to its owner, it will become precious and loved. Connection with the client is very important to me: I wish to hear, understand and feel him / her. I think that only in this case jewellery will “speak” and will reveal the personal charm. My approach to jewellery is perfectly described by the expression that jewellery
great, it attracts people. After all, it is like a piece of sun that
is window on a human body that allows seeing the soul.
accumulated its energy over centuries. To show the luxury of
their castles the Middle Age monarchs set up amber rooms. What material do you like to work with the most?
Amber was also used as a sacred stone that possessed
I make my jewellery goods of gold and silver and
protecting, strengthening and other powers. Today amber
decorate them with precious and semi-precious stones. In
is often associated with happiness, love and health. It is said
reality I use various techniques: forging, casting, denigration,
that the dream will come true if you make a wish and throw a
incrustation, etching, grinding, and enamelling. Again here
handful of amber into fire flames.
you should listen to each material, feel it and be able to make
it speak; only in this case the material will dictate an artistic solution.
Your work was given the first place in the category of objects without any lengthy discussions in the
competition committee. How such interpretation of the theme “My home” emerged?
Amber. So many young people escape it; what does attract you? What does amber symbolize to you?
I am truly very delighted with this evaluation, it is very
For Lithuanians amber is a part of national identity. It is
important to me. Speaking about the topic, I liked it very much.
our Baltic gold and a source of pride. After all, it could be said
I just experienced it and it developed into the mentioned
that we grew up with amber. I remember that in childhood I
miniature. Idea, materials and forms of expression merged into
was playing with grandmother’s amber brooches, necklaces
harmonious whole. This composition was inspired by Šatrijos
and rings. When you find a piece of amber by the sea, you
Ragana stories “About homeland”. After all, each of us have
imagine a legend about the great goddess Jūratė’s amber
mother who gave life to and grew us. However, Šatrijos Ragana
castle and her tragic love to Kastytis. The power of amber is
also had beautiful stories about our second mother – the land
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
where we and our ancestors were born. It is our homeland,
back; and heart aches because of them pulling…” So in this
our home. And when you go away, you feel that trees are not
miniature a mythical World tree was born, a piece of amber
as green as they should be and flowers do not smell like they
reflecting people and our national identity that accumulated
should. It seems like: “every human being has threads growing
a lot of sun energy. I wished to represent this piece of amber
out of his heart and growing into the homeland; the farther
as a seed, a symbol of life and of potential opportunities. So
from homeland, the more is the tension of threads that pull
maybe these powerful symbols reflected by the miniature made me succeed in the competition.
Who is your authority in the jewellery world? Who are the jewellers you admire?
I admire most jewellers; it is difficult to distinguish
somebody. I am amazed by the fact that a person in engaged in creative work, and we grow by creating. I truly like an impressive creative work of a Swiss Professor Otto Kunzli and the work of a young Taiwanese artist Wu Ching Chih. Speaking about Lithuanians I should mention Aleksandas Šepkus from New York, and Eglė Čėjauskaitė-Gintalė.
What is the most important jeweller’s feature? It is important to know that not everything has been
created yet; it should become a stimulus to go forward. Of course, it is important to make a good work, to see that you’ve met the client expectations. Every client who came to the master is an evaluation of his work.
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Amber Trip is moving to LITEXPO, the largest exhibition and conference centre in the Baltic States.
NEW HORIZONS AMBER TRIP Interview with Giedrius GUNTORIUS by Irina SLESAREVA
From 8 to 11 March the annual exhibition Amber Trip, which is the largest event of this kind in the Baltic States, will take place. Vilnius has already acquired an unofficial status of the Baltic jewellery capital because of this exhibition. The Director of the project Giedrius Guntorius tells about its development in next years and prospects for amber business in the region.
years exhibition was held in one of the best hotels of the capital – “Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva” and it was very important for buyers who lived here throughout all days of the exhibition. Now transfers from hotels will be available as it is common at all large European exhibitions, for instance, in Vicence. This is a new format and our collaboration with LITEXPO has been planned for the next ten years. Almost all large European exhibitions offer their guests-buyers special discount visit programmes. Does
This year you have decided to leave XS format and
Amber Trip have such programme?
move to a new platform – the large modern exhibition
Of course, there is a state support for companies
complex LITEXPO. What are the reasons for it? Does a
participating in our exhibition that get a subsidy up to 50 %
large number of exhibits not fit in Radisson Blue? Or is it
of expenses and we pay them 50 % of hotel costs, transfer,
the question of status of Amber Trip?
receptions and cocktails for guests. We also provide a visa
We have already developed Amber Trip project for
support and facilitate preparing customs documentation
fourteen years, we overcame the crisis, declines and growth
if needed. We have a department that has successfully
of economy in the region; therefore, a wish to grow is very
solved these issues for many years, everything functions like
natural to us. Despite the market is not large, all amber business
clock-work and our guests may not worry for their goods or
is concentrated here. Such project is obviously needed for
industry to be able to present its products and find customers.
Without any doubts there should be an exhibition
Move to LITEXPO, the largest exhibition and conference centre
at the Baltic market that will connect everybody who is
in the Baltic States, is caused by the fact that our exhibits has
interested in amber goods. It seems, that you can claim a
outgrown the old format. Today we need a different pavilion –
status of amber stock market – a platform where all amber
spacious and beautiful, and also new comfortable stands. We
of the region will be concentrated.
plan to expand the business programme and hold seminars
I have been very much satisfied with the sales results at
and round tables in the equipped conference hall. In general,
Amber Trip. For several years buyers from Japan, Germany, USA,
new platform should correspond to our new tasks. For many
Turkey and Poland visit us. But I would like to emphasize that
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
besides amber Amber Trip offers other assortment of golden and silver jewellery with coloured stones and diamonds. However, we truly plan to concentrate on amber and position the exhibition as a stock market where raw materials of any size and price could be found. Of course, it is early to announce this officially, but we have such plans; and now we prepare an international forum and a serious business programme. This year we expect groups from USA, Kuwait and Great Britain. Now when the exhibition has “grown up” are you afraid of it losing its charm and specific refinement it was known for during all these years when buyers and visitors felt visiting not a business event, but being guests of very charismatic owners? Will you still have gypsy parties?
and hold the awarding ceremony during the first days of
We have never saved up money on additional programme;
the exhibition. The topic of this year is Nature morte. This is
therefore, it always has been fun with us and will be the same
a genre that is associated with painting. There are few works
in future. We don’t know yet if we are able to preserve this
in jewellery related to nature morte, maybe because it is
amazing atmosphere. But anyway we will put all our efforts
complicated for authors. However, it is really interesting and
to do this: it is of the same importance to us as to our friends
inspiring. As recommended material amber fits this topic very
well because it contains fossilised remains of ancient life – we
This year an annual creative competition to encourage
can call it a natural nature morte. This year participants will be
creative initiatives by beginner designers will take place
awarded by traditional prizes and also will get an opportunity
at the new platform. Will its format be the same as before?
to take part in the thematic exposition where art jewellery will
Yes, of course, during the year we still accept works by designers from various countries and sum up the results
be shown in the context of the modern art.
RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Second from the left Mikhail ZATSEPIN, Director General of JSC “Kaliningrad Amber Combine”
II ANNUAL FORUM OF AMBER INDUSTRY WILL TAKE PLACE IN RUSSIA Emergence of the first large platform dedicated to amber promotion gave a new impulse for the industry development. In October 2016 the First economic forum of amber industry took place in Russia, Svetlogorsk City, Kaliningrad Region. The forum brought together all interested participants, first of all Russian, in one place. Market participants are sure that the event should become an attraction point for amber community from all over the world. Director General of JSC “Kaliningrad Amber Combine” will tell us about the meaning of emergent large platform for amber industry, what should happen in the branch in the nearest future, prices of raw materials and many other things in the interview for “Baltic Jewellery News”.
Mikhail, last year in October Amber Combine held a
place in the exhibition area of Yantar Hall. The exhibition was
large-scale event – Amber forum for the first time. What
attended by guests from the neighbouring countries and also
was the programme and what were interesting things at
Europe, China, Korea and other countries. Amber jewellery
the First Amber Forum?
comprised the largest part of the exposition; it also included
I will start with the fact that we have planned to host the
unique author works: paintings, furniture, museum exhibits
Forum of amber industry in Russia since 2014. Due to various
that were not offered for sale.
objective reasons the project was postponed and, finally, last
Within the business programme management of all
year we did it. We brought the best of all we know about amber
interested departments and industry communities discussed
to one place and the brightest representatives of industry
relevant issues of the current state-of-the-art and development
participated in the event.
of amber industry in Russia and also in the international context.
In three days of exhibition and highly topical business
The most discussed topics were: economical, technological
and cultural programme we showed the most beautiful and
and legal reformation of amber industry; abandoning of raw
modern things. The exhibition and sale of amber goods took
material economy model and forming added value in the
RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT industry; development of civilized market of amber industry in Russia and work with international partners and many other topics. Business programme was developed in blocks in accordance with the most significant directions in industry development: cultural-historical track, tourism track, education track, scientific-innovative track, and marketing session. Over 20 events of different format ranging from a plenary session to master classes, competitions and lectures took place within the
Anton A. ALIHANOV – The Governor of the Kaliningrad region
business programme. We paid a lot of attention to open lessons and interactive activities for children, pupils and students. As far as we know, the cooperation with WorldSkills,
The main task of this competence is not just to gain an
the largest international non-commercial movement
amber processing skill, but it also includes producing jewellery
in education, began at the First amber forum, and new
goods that meet the requirements of modern trends and
professional competence "Amber processing" was
directions in amber industry.
I would like to point out that WorldSkills is an international
That’s true; one of the competition task modules was tested
non-commercial movement that aims to increase the prestige
at the competition platform of Amber forum. Afterwards, within
of engineering-technical and working professions, and to
half a year the experts developed competition documentation
develop vocational training. The key mission of WorldSkills
and a new competence “Amber processing” was presented
is to develop professional competences, increase the
in February of this year. For us it is a big breakthrough in the
prestige of high quality personnel, to demonstrate the
sphere of professional training for amber industry and we pay
significance of competences for economic growth and
a lot of attention to it in our daily work.
RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
On the third day of Amber forum Amber Combine held
sun stone and learn many interesting and valuable things
an auction for sale of large exemplars of amber. What
is unique about this auction and what was the largest
The second economic forum of amber industry will take
amber stone sold?
place on 28-30 July 2017 in Svetlogorsk in the variety theatre
That’s right, an auction for sale of large stones with the
“Yantar Hall”. It would be dedicated to 70-year anniversary
weight exceeding one kilogram was held at the forum platform.
of the Combine. Many amber processors volunteered to
We had never sold large exemplars of amber before this event.
become members of the organizational committee of the
The starting price of lots depended on the size and quality of
event; therefore, a diverse and rich business programme and
the fossilized resin. Over 76 lots were presented at the auction,
exhibition are expected within the forthcoming forum. We
25 of them consisted of one stone with the weight exceeding
invite all interested participants and guests to visit the Second
1 kg. Participants could see all lots in advance.
annual amber forum!
Russian and foreign companies took part in the auction.
Our guests will see true Kaliningrad amber at the exhibition
According to the auction results, 16 lots were sold, 8 of them
of the forum. I will emphasize that it will be true amber. At the
were amber stones with weight exceeding 1 kg. The highest
exhibition of the forum we will watch very strictly to prevent
price for the lot was 1.5 million rubles; happy owners got a
any imitation of amber or any counterfeit. Manufacturers take
unique and very beautiful uniform stone weighing 1.4 kg.
responsibility for it by their reputation, first of all, in the eyes
Average sales price comprised 383 thousand rubles for 1 kg.
of their colleagues. Mikhail, in the last year the Combine approved a new trade and sales policy and a new amber classifier. At the same time, prices for raw materials at the Combine increased significantly. Market reaction to such changes was ambiguous. Tell us why such step was taken? A new organizational standard “Amber” that determined the main requirements to different types of amber was approved to increase the efficiency of company’s operation. This standard aims to harmonise requirements to different types of amber that has been mined by the Combine with requirements that have been practiced in amber trade at the international markets. The next step was the development and approval of a new trade and sales policy that determined the main principles of commercial relations of the Combine with customers
What was the effect of this forum and will it become
of amber raw materials, rules and conditions for its sales.
an annual platform capable to unite the world amber
Representatives of amber business communities, including
the associations “Russian Amber” and “Amber Union” took part in the development of trade and sales policy.
As an organizer of the forum, Kaliningrad Amber Combine and also state corporation “Rostekh” that owns 100% of the
Within these consistent steps to implement trade and
combine shares as well as the Government of the Kaliningrad
sales policy Kaliningrad Amber Combine started sales of raw
Region are interested in making it an annual event that would
materials through the open electronic platform of the “Saint-
become the hallmark of the region. We have things to show
Petersburg” exchange. Application of exchange bidding mechanisms allowed a
and to be proud of. Amber is our true treasure and it is loved all over the world.
timely reaction of the Combine to requirements of the market, including pricing policy and development of an optimum set
The first forum proved the necessity to hold this event
of products for the Combine and its customers.
on an annual basis; therefore, we will host the Second annual amber forum in 2017. We have decided to change the dates
What concerns raw material prices, we are guided by the
and organize the forum in summer so that tourists and guests
exchange biddings and the price that our customers are ready
of the region who come for holidays in summer season would
to pay for raw materials of different fractions. It is an absolutely
have an opportunity to see the best creative works made of
transparent system and prices are determined by the market.
RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
The first forum proved the necessity to hold this event on an annual basis; therefore, we will host the SECOND ANNUAL AMBER FORUM IN 2017 If the demand is low we decrease the price, if it is high – we
The task to make amber a world brand is our common
increase it. Monitoring and review of prices are performed
task to be achieved in a constructive interaction and by
common efforts. Perhaps, Amber Combine as one of the largest
The first direct export contract with Chinese company
companies in mining “sun stone” is the most interested party
was signed at the end of 2016. Do you plan to continue
in industry development.
cooperation with other foreign partners?
It is important for us to see the positive dynamics of
After a long break the Combine started to sell products on
industry development. It refers to business needs to get
external markets without involving intermediaries. Multiple
the profit; it is also related with successful projects of amber
negotiations with different foreign companies from China, India,
promotion, tourism, social programmes, emergence of new
Poland, Lithuania and other countries were held. As a result
alternative domains for amber use, modern processing
of these negotiations at the end of the last year the Combine
technologies, fashion and design, new jobs and many other
signed an Agreement on co-operation with a Chinese company
things. A fresh look to the “sun stone” is important.
that is a part of a large vertically integrated jewellery holding.
We often discuss same questions that are indisputably
The agreement foresees a long-term co-operation that
important; but, in my view, it is not constructive to speak
will facilitate the development of the Combine’s activities and
about criminal component, high raw material prices and similar
creation of amber processing cluster in Kaliningrad Region
topics all the time. It is time to develop modern trends, revive
as well as integration of the Combine into the system of
old and create new traditions, to “expand the view” on amber.
international amber turnover.
It is time to get united. After all, in a global scale the industry
The signed contract is the first export agreement of the
development is possible only by joint efforts.
Combine. But we plan to continue this work and have already
We invite all interested parties to take part in a constructive
negotiated with partners from other countries.
dialogue. Platform of the Annual amber forum is an opportunity
Mikhail, what is the direction for industry development
for such dialogue.
in your view?
RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
The main market for selling goods of DARVIN studio is Russia; there are 350 trade partners here
ABOUT LOVE TO A UNIQUE PIECE OF AMBER By Virginija ZYGIENE
Currently, 100 persons are employed at the jewellery studio DARVIN that sells its goods all over the world. It took about two decades to create our own style. “Baltic Jewellery News” interviews the owner of the jewellery studio Viacheslav Darvin about love to a unique piece of amber, distinctive design of jewellery goods, customers and to life in general.
Darvin confesses that currently there are
more customers who would like to buy jewellery made by DARVIN studio than it can sell. In spite of it, the studio founder assures that even now he devotes a lot time to constant learning. “I’ve started with amber jewellery and I like it very much. Amber processing technology is accessible to anyone because it “allows” processing,” – the speaker assures. The jeweller tells that at the start of his business the ambition to launch mass production failed because most technological processes were much more complicated than he thought. Since V. Darvin did not complete any jewellery studies, he had to spend several years to take over the experience of Polish and Italian jewellers. The master does not conceal the fact that as majority of businesses he earned his early profits by making amber beads. However, he always had the thought about not limiting himself to earning profits from selling “trivial beads”.
Viacheslav DARVIN owner of the jewellery studio DARVIN
The studio DARVIN established trade representatives in Kaliningrad, Moscow and Hong Kong. V. Darvin also talks
1998–2000 I tried to experiment by leaving unique pieces
about plans to establish trade representative in Vilnius in
of amber in their original form and decorating it with silver.
collaboration with “Amber Trip”. Recently, three retail shops
I’ve started to design jewellery since 2003 or 2004, and
„DARVIN Jewellery“ opened their doors for customers in
until then I learnt from others. The father the better I
understand that one should constantly learn,” – the studio
V. Darvin says that he recognises only traditional trade and
does not sell jewellery on internet. “I am conservative because I think that jewellery is a very intimate good and I would not
risk buying jewellery on internet where I cannot touch it. On
Currently, DARVIN studio produces silver and golden
the other hand, I acknowledge that there are very successful internet shops,” – the jeweller says.
jewellery with amber, precious and other stones. Most jewellery is designed for women, although there is also a collection for young girls. When I work with the design of jewellery I never think about woman’s age and cannot guess it. You should remember about the age only when you make a collection for children,“ – the companion smiles. V. Darvin acknowledges that once he worked with a collection of men jewellery. And although nowadays there is a demand for men jewellery, he has not thought about entering this market. “I definitely have men jewellery, I can safely show it and start mass production; however, I lack time for this work, although I have some ideas,” – the jeweller acknowledges. He does not wear any jewellery himself and says that such accessories oblige (at least in his case) to wear appropriate
DARVIN studio presents their goods at international
clothes. Jewellery of one kind is good with leisure and sport
exhibitions, including exhibitions in Saint-Petersburg, Breisgau
clothes, while another requires evening clothes.
Freiburg (Germany), Hong Kong and etc. “I have attended “Amber Trip” exhibition for four years. I think that “Amber
Trip” is the only international framework that does not classify
The main market for selling goods of DARVIN studio is
ideas according to the countries of origin. Love to amber is
Russia; there are 350 trade partners here, while in total there
the most important to the organizer of this event, if you love
are 500 partners worldwide. Jewellery produced by the studio
amber, then the organizer invites you to visit the exhibition
is exported to Europe (mostly to Germany), Southeast Asia,
and become its participant,” – the companion tells.
Currently, there are 120 persons employed at DARVIN
V. Darvin acknowledges that nowadays when amber and
studio, and in 2017 the growth of staff up to 200 persons is
its goods flow to China, he has not enjoyed any achievements
at Chinese market yet. “Chinese customers are not interested in my jewellery. And I am not interested in goods that are
AMBER AND CHINA
attractive for this market. You can do business in China, but it
V. Darvin is well-known not only because of his studio
is more complicated with jewellery goods there,” – confesses
and social activities. Management of Kaliningrad region and
Kaliningrad Amber Combine listen to his expert opinion. The
He tells that he participated in Hong Kong exhibition
jeweller is a member of the expert council at Kaliningrad Amber
three years in a row, but didn’t find a customer who would
Combine. So what V. Darvin thinks about the popularity of
buy something from the goods catalogue. “There were a lot
amber in the world and about state-of-the-art at the market
of conversations, they arrived to Kaliningrad, but customers
of amber raw materials?
from China didn’t need any contracts, they wanted to buy
“Currently, on the worldwide scale amber is associated
something and that’s all,” – the jeweller says.
with China. If earlier this stone evoked more associations with
RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
“I did not like the design of amber jewellery available at the market because everything was the same and poor. In
RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Lithuania and other Baltic countries and the Baltic countries dictated amber fashion (beautiful jewellery, amber landscapes); in case of China everything is more simple – I cannot call amber beads jewellery,” – V. Darvin assures. According to him, nowadays there is a new situation at the market. China pays a lot for white amber, and transparent amber is not popular in this country. “White amber has never been popular neither in the Baltic countries, Russia, Poland nor in Europe. How can it be that the price of amber that is attractive for China customers is one and the price of amber they are not interested in is different? Of course, this is irony. Manufacturers, masters, artists have to find their place, but time is needed for it,” – Kaliningrad jeweller says. Moreover, Chinese customers messed the market in that way that diamonds are cheaper than amber with gold because Chinese pay for it. For instance, half carat goods with diamonds are cheaper than 50 g amber goods. “I regret that all amber jewellery market has started to work only for China customers,” – V. Darvin says. The speaker also acknowledges that there is an odd situation
there is an active work with Russian officials on this issue and
at amber raw materials market and “if amber raw materials will
favourable changes may be also brought with the coming to
become cheaper for Russian and European markets, the design
power of new Kaliningrad governor.
of jewellery will differ.” V. Darvin says that he observes the mix
“The market situation has been changing, but it cannot
of two totally different jewellery cultures – those of Russia and
change very quickly. As it is said, business is not politics;
Europe. For instance, yellow or white gold has been always
although last three years show something different,” – the
popular in Europe, while rose gold was more popular in Russia.
jeweller and expert confesses.
Nowadays rose amber is also popular in Europe.
What should be done to change the situation at amber market? What role should be played by the Kaliningrad Amber
V. Darvin tells about an implementation of investment
tourist project – in spring a German style mill will be opened
“I am convinced that if we want, and we surely want people
in Kaliningrad; and in this mill manufacturing area will be
to wear amber jewellery, we need to become united. I do not
established, research, cultural and tourism projects will be
want only Russians to be engaged in amber production. Why
shouldn’t we all combine capital, technologies and people?
“It is not a business project. I develop a business township
Although it may sound paradoxical, but today economic
that can be visited by artists from different fields. It is like an
conditions are the best for those who collaborate with Russian
open club. Works could be exposed in the gallery. I will also
companies. Russian companies have no problems in buying
show my own creative works – collections. I have already
amber; therefore, it should be processed together and it will
signed an agreement on excursions with a tourism agency.
save a lot of money,” – V. Darvin persuades.
We will set a restaurant and several rooms to accommodate guests,” – the speaker opens his plans.
He acknowledges that Kaliningrad Amber Combine plays a role of raw material supplier for everybody and there is a wish
He persuades that work provides him with everything
that he would perform this role further. “In my opinion, it is not
what is necessary for his life: “If you love your work you don’t
correct when we speak about amber business. It is necessary
need any hobbies. There are various fields where you work
to work with Russians, because historically we were out of the
and there are also social activities.” Asked about selling his business to an investor, V. Darvin
board,” – the speaker argues.
answers briefly: “Yes, I would sell, but nobody would buy.”
Currently Russians have difficulties in exporting amber goods that do not contain metal. V. Darvin recognises that
RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
“JŪRATĖ” – A SPECIAL PRIZE FOR MASTERY By Jury VELIKOTSKY Chair of the Board – the Main Master of the Kaliningrad Guild of Amber Craftsmen
November 2016 the Kaliningrad Guild of Amber Craftsmen celebrated the first anniversary of its
existence. It is pleasant to note that during the last year
number of the guild’s members has increased more than twice. Numerous showcasing of our works at various exhibitions in Russia and abroad has always generated a great interest and a positive feedback of visitors. We consider promotion of the art of carving on amber and encouraging authors who aim to achieve high level of creative results one of the major directions of our activities. For this particular reason we developed an idea to establish
Yuri VELIKOTSKY awarding prize “Jūratė” to jeweller from Riga – Juris GAGAINIS
our own prize. Being a craftsmen guild we have established a prize “For mastery”. We have decided that our prize should have a background story and we should base the evaluation of works on clearly
In future we plan to award “JŪRATĖ” prize twice a year – at
defined criteria. Both background story and criteria have
one exhibition held in the Kaliningrad Amber Museum and at
been developed and approved by the guild members almost
the “Amber Trip” exhibition in Vilnius. We reserve the right to
make partial changes to appearance of the Prize for achieving
In 2013 the member of jury committee of the
the most optimum and expressive form.
“Alatyr”exhibition, chair of the French Guild of Jewelers Pierre-
For the first time, we awarded the “JŪRATĖ” prize at the
Marie Bernard awarded his diploma to the interior object
exhibition “Amber Trip 2016”. Without any doubts, the brooch
“JŪRATĖ”. While explaining his decision he clarified that he
“Flying house” by the Latvian jeweler Juris Gagainis met all
evaluated and enjoyed the work from the artistic point of
view – it was created by using amber, it was appropriate to
A famous Kaliningrad artist Liudmila Sacharova has become
the competition theme and it was crafted with a high level
the second winner of our award. Her work “Lights of the
night city” was considered the best at the exhibition “Amber
We have decided to use these statements by the famous
Milestones in History” held in Kaliningrad Amber Museum.
master of art jewelry for defining our own criteria for evaluating
Currently, another “JŪRATĖ” prize has been produced
(No. 3). We are waiting for the exhibition “Amber Trip 2017”
A special prize of the Kaliningrad Guild of Amber Craftsmen
opening impatiently to select the worthy work of those
“JŪRATĖ” is a stylised image of the mermaid with a piece of
presented at the competition and award the author for
amber in her hands. This prize is awarded to an author, whose
• • • •
Is interesting from the artistic point of view; Is partially or completely made of natural amber; Is appropriate to the competition theme; Demonstrates faultless quality of processing of raw materials and a high level of professional mastery of the author.
Set of “Lights of the night city” by Ludmila SAKHAROVA
Special prize “Jūratė”, by Yuri VELIKOTSKY
Brooch “Flying house” by Juris GAGAINIS
CHINESE JEWELLERY REPORT
ASIA PACIFIC IN FINE JEWELLERY By Jasmine SENG, Global Industry Analyst at Euromonitor International 2016 was a turbulent year for fine jewellery, with key markets India and China heavily impacted by the fall in demand for gold jewellery. Asia Pacific continues to be the largest contributor of fine jewellery in the world taking up 61 % of the market, with China and India leading the market.
faced the biggest yearly decline in demand
By 2030, the number of middle income households is
for gold jewellery amidst protests in
expected to increase to 55 % of the total households in South
Q1 2016 against the mandatory PAN card on all jewellery
East Asia. Indonesia and Malaysia are expected to have the
transactions of Rs2 lakh and above. The large-scale strikes
highest percentage of households falling under the middle
which saw many gold jewellers closing their doors, affected
income by 2030, with 31 % of total households in the country
sales. On top of this, the government introduced a 1 % jewellery
being middle income.
excise tax in addition to the 10 % import tax that is already
The rise in the number of middle income households
in place. Demand for gold jewellery in India fell by 22 % from
in South East Asia makes it a hotspot for the consumption
2015–2016, the largest decline in the last seven years.
of discretionary items, with many retailers jumping on the
On the other hand, demand for hard luxury items, such as
bandwagon to tap into this growing market. With the likes
luxury fine jewellery, is in decline in China as consumers are
of Tiffany & Co. opening its first store in Bangkok, Thailand in
looking towards experiences as opposed to the accumulation
2015 and luxury departmental store Takashimaya opening its
of luxury items to gain satisfaction. According to the World
doors in Vietnam mid last year; this reflects the potential in
Gold Council, demand for gold for jewellery purposes fell
South East Asia’s consumption for discretionary items.
by 17 % from 2015 to 2016 in China. However, as demand for travel and tourism is in the midst of a boom. According to
INDONESIA AS THE NEXT KEY AREA OF GROWTH
Euromonitor International’s Global Consumer Trends Survey,
Indonesia has the fourth largest population in the world
42 % of consumers have increased their spending on travel and
and with it is also, South East Asia’s largest economy. Indonesia
48 % of consumers took at least one personal international trip
is expected to see a remarkable over ten-fold increase in
and 26 % took at least one international business trip. Despite
upper middle income bracket consumers from 2015 to 2030.
the stable demand in fine jewellery, demand for luxury fine
Unsurprisingly, fine jewellery is also expected to be the fastest
jewellery declined 5 % from 2015 to 2016.
growing in Indonesia in 2030. The rise in the upper middle
gold jewellery and luxury fine jewellery is falling in China,
income households in Indonesia provides a tremendous
SOUTH EAST ASIA: A BURGEONING OPPORTUNITY FOR FINE JEWELLERY
opportunity for fine jewellery players where the positive
With slowing demand in traditional markets like China
households and the market size for fine jewellery in Indonesia
correlation between the number of upper middle income
and India in Asia Pacific, it is important to look towards other
have been observed for the past 10 years.
pockets of opportunities in Asia Pacific, and this includes South in South East Asia possess strong potential for growth in
DIVERSIFICATION FOR SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT
the market for fine jewellery. Indonesia is expected to see
Top fine jewellery brand in the world, Chow Tai Fook,
the fastest growth rate in Asia Pacific at 7.8 %. Additionally,
which derives more than 90 % of its sales value in the world
other countries within South East Asia to look out for are the
from its business in Greater China (Hong Kong and mainland
Philippines and Thailand, with both markets expecting to see
China), is in a vulnerable position due to its over-dependence
about a 3–4 % growth from 2016 to 2021.
on one geographical location. Tiffany & Co., the world’s third
East Asia. During the forecast period, emerging countries
2016 VS 2030: PERCENTAGE OF MIDDLE CLASS
HOUSEHOLDS (AS % OF TOTAL HOUSEHOLDS) IN KEY
CHINESE JEWELLERY REPORT
2016: DISTRIBUTION OF GLOBAL JEWELLERY RETAIL SALES
SOUTH EAST ASIA COUNTRIES Asia Pacific 64 % Rest of the world 5 %
% of Total Households
Europe 10 %
Vietnam Philippines Singapore Thailand
North America 21 %
Source: Euromonitor International
5 % 10 %
15 % 20 %
– 2030 Source: Euromonitor International
2010–2016: GOLD JEWELLERY DEMAND IN INDIA Gold Jewellery Demand in Tonnes
MARKET SIZE OF FINE JEWELLERY IN RETAIL RSP (USD
MILLION, FIXED 2016 EXCHANGE RATES)
USD million, fixed 2016 exchange rates
800 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
Number of Households ('000s)
500 400 300
Source: World Gold Council
2011–2016: LUXURY FINE JEWELLERY VS FINE JEWELLERY
2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
– Fine Jewellery Market
DEMAND IN CHINA
– Upper Middle Income Households Source: Euromonitor International
Retail Sales Value in USD, in millions, year-on-year exchange rates
Retail Sales Value ini USD, in millions, in year-on-year exchange rates
ranked fine jewellery player in 2015 and Cartier, the world’s
fourth fine jewellery player in 2015, are diversifying their
geographical reach within South East Asia in order to tap
into the rising demand for fine jewellery in the region, with
Cartier already establishing a presence in Vietnam. With more
international brands potentially entering the fine jewellery
market in South East Asia in the next 10 years, this would
impact the competitive landscape in South East Asia where
regional players are more prominent in each country.
2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
– Luxury Fine Jewellery
– Fine Jewellery Source: Euromonitor International
Photo: IJL2016 KickStarters
UK JEWELLERY REPORT
IJL KICKSTART 2017 – the search for the most talented 10 upcoming designers begins Report by INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY LONDON Press Office International Jewellery London has launched its highly successful KickStart industry bursary programme. Up-and-coming British jewellery designers can apply to be one of ten exhibiting on a group stand at IJL 2017 – the UK’s premier international jewellery show.
Willoughby, IJL Event Director, comments:
who feels ready to take their brand to the next level to apply
“KickStart is a fantastic pool of talent,
for this important initiative.”
demonstrating creative flair and technical ingenuity. The stand is a ‘must see’ destination at the show for visitors, providing
Potential KickStarters should apply online
a showcase of some of the most exciting jewellers in the UK
today. IJL has supported 80 contemporary designers through
Deadline for entries is 10 April 2017.
this programme since 2009.” The winning KickStart 2017 designers will be at IJL
People’s Choice Winner 2016 Marina Skia adds: “KickStart really helped raise awareness for my brand and showing at
showcasing their work
IJL was a fantastic experience. I recommend every designer
from 3 to 5 September 2017 at Olympia GRAND.
Laboratorium Gemmologiczne Barbara Dembowska
Diamenty w starym szlifie Kamienie kolorowe Rozety diamentowe Naturalne diamenty kolorowe we wszystkich rozmiarach i ksztaltach
Old Cut Diamonds Color Stones Rose Cut Diamonds Natural Fancy Color Diamonds
tel. kom. 602 390 419 tel. / fax +48 (61) 832 14 25 email@example.com www.diamondslab.pl
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
List of open selling prices of amber production of
JSC Kaliningrad Amber Factory March 2017
Amber of commission sorting
Open selling prices (excluding VAT),
500 g – 1000 g
300 g – 500 g
200 g – 300 g
100 g – 200 g
Amber of weight sorting Sort 1
50 g – 100 g
20 g – 50 g
10 g – 20 g
5 g – 10 g
Amber of weight sorting Unsorted
Amber of filter sorting
2,5–5 g or fraction +16
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
The Worldwide Price for
Raw Amber March 2017
AMBER FROM RUSSIA Regular Amber Piece Size
Price / 1 kg – EUR
+5 mm fraction
+6 mm fraction
+8 mm fraction
+11,5 mm fraction
+14 mm fraction
+16 mm fraction
2,5 gr. – 5 gr.
5 gr. – 10 gr.
10 gr. – 20 gr.
20 gr. – 50 gr.
50 gr. – 100 gr.
100 gr. – 200 gr.
200 gr. – 300 gr.
300 gr. – 500 gr
FACTIONS 20–50 G RAW AMBER PRICE CHANGE 2006 FERBRUARY – 2017 MARCH EUR per Ounce 4300 3900 3500 3100 2700 2300 1900 1500 1100 700 300 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 06 08 03 08 03 08 03
If you have any questions concerning these prices, please, contact our office: firstname.lastname@example.org
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
The Worldwide Price for
Raw Amber March 2017
AMBER FROM POLAND Regular Amber Piece Size
Price / 1 kg – EUR
2 gr. – 5 gr.
5 gr. -10 gr.
10 gr. – 20 gr.
20 gr. – 50 gr.
50 gr. – 100 gr.
100 gr. – 200 gr.
200 gr. – 300 gr.
AMBER FROM UKRAINE Regular Amber Piece Size
Price / 1 kg – EUR
2 gr. – 5 gr.
5 gr. – 10 gr.
10 gr. – 20 gr.
20 gr. – 50 gr.
50 gr. – 100 gr.
100 gr. – 200 gr.
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
The Worldwide Price for
Raw Amber March 2017
WHITE ROUND AMBER BALLS Regular Amber Piece Size
Price / 1 g – EUR
5mm – 7mm
7mm – 10mm
10 mm – 12 mm
12 mm – 15 mm
15 mm – 20 mm
20 mm and larger
COGNAC ROUND AMBER BALLS Regular Amber Piece Size
Price / 1 g – EUR
5mm – 10mm white round amber balls
10mm – 15mm white round amber balls
15 mm – 20 mm
20mm and larger
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
The Worldwide Price for
Amber Silver 925 Jewellery March 2017
Amber Silver 925 Jewellery
Handmade 1,90 Machine made
AMBER SILVER 925 JEWELLERY PRICE CHANGE AUGUST 2010 – AUGUST 2016 EUR / g 3
2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 08 03 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03
SILVER PRICE CHANGE 2014 MARCH – JAUNUARY 2017
2017-01-31 16,08 2016-12-31 15,38
EUR per Ounce
2016-06-30 16,48 2016-03-31 13,52
2015-12-31 12,69 2015-09-30 13,06
2015-06-30 14,04 2015-03-31 15,45
2014-12-31 13,14 2014-09-30 13,60
2014 2014 2014 2014 2015 2015 2015 2015 2016 2016 2016 2016 2017 03 06 09 12 03 06 09 12 03 06 09 12 01 www.quandl.com
If you have any questions concerning these prices, please, contact our office: email@example.com
Gold Price Monthly avarage gold price change 2016â&#x20AC;&#x201C;2017
EUR per troy ounce
29/02/2016 1136,53 31/03/2016 1085,52
29/04/2016 1122,50 31/05/2016 1088,79
30/06/2016 1188,85 29/07/2016 1200,09
31/08/2016 1175,53 30/09/2016 1176,81
2016 2017 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 1 firstname.lastname@example.org
30/11/2016 1110,58 30/12/2016 1086,42 31/01/2017 1122,24
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
OUTLOOK 2017 Global economic trends and their impact on gold Report by WORLD GOLD COUNCIL
In 2016, gold-backed ETFs increased their collective holdings by 536 tonnes (US$21.7bn), the highest since
large numbers to the gold market, as a combination of
2009. And while US-listed gold backed ETFs saw a 40 %
macroeconomic drivers and pent up demand kept interest
plus reduction in their gold holdings in Q4 2016 – relative
in gold high. As we start the new year, there are some concerns
to the three previous quarters – UK, Asian, and Continental
that US dollar strength may limit gold’s appeal. We believe that,
Europe-listed ETFs fell by just 14 %, 9 % and 1 %, respectively.
on the contrary, not only will gold remain highly relevant as a
In all, Europe and Asia accounted for 57 % of total ETF flows
strategic portfolio component, but also six major trends will
last year. And we expect that gold investment demand is
support demand for gold throughout 2017.
likely to remain firm.
The gold price had a strong performance in 2016, rising
close to 10 % in US dollar terms (higher in most other currencies) and amassing multi-year record inflows through physically-
Monetary policy is likely to diverge between the US and
backed gold ETFs – making it one of the best performing assets
other parts of the world. The Fed is widely expected to tighten
last year, despite a post-US election pullback. And the price
monetary policy, but it is far from certain that other central
has gained more than 5 % since the Federal Reserve (Fed)
banks may be willing and/or able to do so. The situation in Europe is a case in point. As John Nugée
increased rates in mid-December. But, what does 2017 hold for the gold market?
states: “Europe’s economies are likely to face a continuation of the current tight fiscal, expansionary monetary policy as they
HEIGHTENED POLITICAL AND GEOPOLITICAL RISKS
have for at least the last five years.” Since the European Central
Political risk is rising. Europe will hold key elections in the
January 2015, its balance sheet has increased by approximately
Netherlands, France and Germany in 2017. As John Nugée says,
€1.5 trillion, resulting in an increase of 70 % and bringing the
the election cycle will happen “against a backdrop of continued
current balance sheet total to more than €3.6 trillion.
Bank announced further quantitative easing measures in
citizen unrest, fuelled by the ongoing uneven distribution of
This will inevitably lead to fears of currency depreciation.
economic welfare.” In addition, Britain must negotiate its exit
In fact, over the past century, gold has vastly outperformed
from the European Union.
all major currencies as a means of exchange. One of the reasons
While the UK economy is still expanding, the pound fell
for this is that the available supply of gold changes little over
sharply following the referendum decision and continues to
time – growing only 2 % per year through mine production.
weaken every time the markets sense that there is an increased
In contrast, fiat money can be printed in unlimited quantities
chance of a ‘hard’ Brexit.
to support monetary policies.
In the US, there are positive expectations about some of the economic proposals of President-elect Donald Trump and his team, but there are also concerns. The US dollar has
ALL MAJOR CURRENCIES HAVE DEPRECIATED OVER THE
gained ground since Trump swept to victory last November,
PAST CENTURY RELATIVE TO GOLD*
but uncertainty is rife. Jim O’Sullivan sees “a meaningful risk
that negotiations on trade will turn belligerent” and suggests
that “confidence in markets could be affected by geopolitical
tensions triggered by the new administration”.
As a high-quality, liquid asset, gold benefits from safehaven
Gold is especially effective as a safe have during times
of systemic crisis, when investors tend to withdraw from risk
assets. As they pull back, gold’s correlation to stocks becomes
1900 1910 1920 1930 1940 1950 1960 1970 1980 1990 2000 2010
Gold historically performs better than other high-quality liquid
– US dollar – Mark** – Reichsmark – Deutschemark – ECU – Euro – Yen – Pound sterling – Gold
assets during periods of crisis and that makes it an excellent
* As of December 2016.
progressively more negative and its price tends to increase.
** The 'Mark' was the currency of the late German Empire. Originally known as the Goldmark and backed by gold until 1914, it was later called Papermark.
liquidity provider of last resort.
Source: Bl oomberg, GFMS-Thomson Reuters, ICE Benchmark Administration, Metals Focus, World Gold Council
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
THE GOLD MARKET IN 2017 In 2016, investors around the world returned in
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
This difference between gold and fiat currencies can
CHINA AND ASIA EX JAPAN AND CHINA (AXJC) WILL LIKELY
drive gold investment demand as investors seek to preserve
CONTRIBUTE APPROX. 60 % OF GLOBAL GROWTH IN 2017*
capital from depreciating currencies, exemplified by European
Contribution to global growth (%)
investors last year, when they turned to gold through bars, coins
and ETFs. German investors added 76.8 tonnes of gold (+76 %)
to ETFs in 2016. They also bought 72.3 tonnes through bars and
coins between Q1 and Q3 2016 (based on the available data).
But gold’s relative steadfastness can also support central
bank demand. To that end, central banks continue to acquire
gold as a means of diversifying their foreign reserves and we
expect them to continue to do so in 2017.
1995 1997 1999 2001 2003 2005 2007 2009 2011 2013 2015 2017 2019
RISING INFLATION EXPECTATIONS Nominal interest rates are widely expected to increase in
– Euro area – AxJC
* Courtesy of Standard Charter Research and based on their calculations.
the US this year, but all the economists we spoke to forecast
Source: IMF, Standard Chartered Research
that inflation will rise as well. An upward inflationary trend is likely to support demand for gold for three reasons. First, gold is historically seen as
In such an environment, gold’s role as a portfolio diversifier
an inflation hedge. Second, higher inflation will keep real
and tail risk hedge is particularly relevant.
interest rates low, which in turn makes gold more attractive.
LONG-TERM ASIAN GROWTH
And third, inflation makes bonds and other fixed income assets less appealing to long-term investors.
Macroeconomic trends in Asia will support economic
Jim O’Sullivan expects US CPI to rise by 2.6 % in 2017.
growth over the coming years and, in our view, this will drive
And “while those inflation numbers are not high by historic
gold demand. In Asian economies, gold demand is generally
standards, they would signal that momentum remains
closely correlated to increasing wealth. And as Asian countries
upward.” He is also concerned about the tightness of the US
have become richer, their demand for gold has increased. The
labour market and consequent wage growth. In Asia, David
combined share of world gold demand for India and China
Mann expects “exports prices to rise,” which may eventually
grew from 25 % in the early 1990s to more than 50 % by 2016.
make their way down to Western consumers.
And other markets such as Vietnam, Thailand and South Korea
In all, the massive amount of stimulus that has been pumped
have vibrant gold markets too.
into the global economy for years may eventually create an
As David Mann notes. “Asia has reduced its economic
upward spiral of price inflation that could surprise investors.
exposure to the West. […] The region has achieved relatively strong growth since the global financial crisis, despite
INFLATED STOCK MARKET VALUATIONS
persistently weak growth in the West. Domestic demand – from
Stock markets had a significant rebound in the last stretch
both consumers and investment – is behind this resilience, and
of 2016. And while some stock markets are just recovering
has cushioned the region against its high degree of openness
from lacklustre multi-year performance, stocks in the US have
to external trade. Asia will account for approximately 60 % of
reached historical highs.
global growth in 2017.”
In many cases, valuations have been elevated, as investors
While jewellery demand in China has suffered from changing
increase their risk exposure in search of returns in a very low
consumer tastes, the investment market has undergone a
remarkable period of development. In little more than 10 years
Until now, investors have used bonds to protect their
its bar and coin market has become one of the world’s largest.
capital in the event of a stock market correction. As rates rise,
China’s gold-backed ETFs continue to grow as well. Investors
this is a less viable option – and in the meantime, the risk of
bought 30.3 tonnes of gold in 2016 through ETFs – an almost
a correction may be increasing. The interconnectedness of
six-fold increase in assets under management. Trading volumes
global financial markets has resulted in a higher frequency
on the Shanghai Gold Exchange are increasing. And interest
and larger magnitude of systemic risks. And as Jim O’Sullivan
in new products continues to increase; we believe innovation
puts it: “The [US economic] expansion will not last forever.”
should continue to support China’s gold market in years to come.
(and even negative) interest rates. In our view, this will result in structurally higher demand.
86 % of India’s circulating cash out of its economy. While the
Innovation is evident across all markets, but at the end
purpose is to replace them with newly printed notes, we
of last year one development stood out. The Accounting
believe that the liquidity squeeze could have a temporary
and Auditing Organisation of Islamic Financial Institutions
negative effect on economic growth, and may also affect gold
(AAOIFI), with support from the World Gold Council, launched
demand in the short term. But more importantly, we believe
the Shari’ah Standard for Gold, opening up the Muslim world
that the transition to transparency and formalisation of the
to gold investment.
economy will lead to stronger Indian growth in the longer term, thus benefitting gold.
Mark Mobius of Franklin Templeton thinks that the new Shari’ah Standard on Gold will be a “game changer.” Whereas previous Shari’ah rulings were fragmented or
OPENING OF NEW MARKETS
nonexistent, the Standard provides definitive guidance on gold
Gold is becoming more mainstream. Gold-backed ETFs
products, potentially allowing millions of Muslims to invest in
made gold accessible to millions of investors, primarily in
gold. Furthermore, Islamic finance has expanded rapidly in
the West, over the past decade, but other markets continue
recent years with many countries actively promoting this sector
to expand too. China has seen dramatic growth in recent
as part of their economic development and diversification
years through Gold Accumulation Plans, physicallysettled
policies. These factors can potentially propel gold demand
gold contracts in the Shanghai Gold Exchange.
across many Muslim markets from Malaysia, the UAE and
In Japan, pension funds have increased their gold holdings
Saudi Arabia, where Islamic finance is well established, to
over the past few years. In the corporate sector, more than
countries such as Indonesia and Pakistan, which are pushing
200 defined-benefit pension funds have invested in gold.
for Islamic finance to play a greater role in their economic
In addition, more than 160 defined-contribution plans have
infrastructure. With the size of Shari’ahcompliant AUM
added gold to their list of investments.
expected to grow to US$6.5 trillion by 2020, according to the
We expect this trend to continue and expand into Western
Islamic Finance Stability Board, just a 1 % allocation to gold
markets, where pension funds have had to rethink asset
would equate to nearly US$65 billion or 1,700 tonnes in new
allocation strategies following prolonged exposure to low
SILVAMEX Andrzej Szczypior ul. Kielnieńska 60 80-299 Gdańsk, Poland Tel. (48) 58 5209700 Fax (48) 58 5209701 Mobile. (48) 501 236895
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
In India, the government’s decision to remove large denomination rupee notes (Rs. 500 and Rs. 1,000) took around
INTERNATIONAL AMBER ASSOCIATION REPORT
OF THE INTERNATIONAL AMBER ASSOCIATION By Agnieszka KLIKOWICZ, Michał KOSIOR
The Amber Association in Poland, later renamed the International Amber Association was established in Gdańsk, Poland in 1996. Its establishment was preceded by a period of unheard-of rapid development of the amber industry in Poland’s region of Pomerania. During first five years after the change in Poland’s economic system (overthrow of communism), ca. 1.500 new production companies were established in the Gdańsk region, with the increase in employment exceeding 10.000 people.
are manufactured and sold. Currently the largest group among our members are producers and retailers of amber and amber products. Other members of IAA are: jewellery designers, scientist, museum workers, collectors and amber enthusiasts. In its first year, the Association established their aims and guidelines which remains valid until today:
establish a system of identification of Baltic amber be an inspiration and encourage publishing activity on Baltic amber
co-operate with schools and vocational training centers to develop educational programmes and to establish criteria for the evaluation of school/ course graduates with regard to the amber jeweller
its first year, the Association approved its logo,
profession and related occupations
designed by Giedymin Jabłoński with the Latin name
of the Association and the image of Heliades crying amber
encourage research aimed at the investigation,
tears, published the first issue of the Bursztynisko newsletter
documentation and extraction of amber deposits as
and developed recommendation principles for amber
well as the evaluation of the feasibility of their use
provide aid in establishing a system of permanent regional co-operation for the amber industry
In 1996, the list of the Association’s members included
63 people, and since 2014 it has exceeded 300 people from
ensure the sustainable development amber manufacturing
30 countries (40 % of members are from outside Poland). Soon
the Association became strong voice of the amber industry, first
secure Baltic amber a high profile in the Polish and foreign market
of Poland and later also other countries where amber products
In the last few years the key milestone for IAA activity was changing of office address , from small premises of the MTG SA Gdańsk International Fair Co. in Gdańsk-Oliwa to spacious interior in the heart of Gdańsk (Old Town). Since 2014 there has been available the Amber Laboratory, fitted with necessary equipment for research and certification of amber objects or forgeries. The IAA Laboratory is available to the general public – everyone can come and have their amber tested and certificated. Clients deliver their supplies to IAA Laboratory from around the world. Producers and designers are welcome to show their artistic achievements at exhibitions organized within premises of IAA Gallery. Exhibitions are also presented outside of Gdańsk. Our exhibitions were held in House of Amber in Copenhagen, Museum of Amber in Ribnitz-Damgarten or Archeology Museum in Nove Mesto, Slovenia and many others. Since the Association’s early years, the main goal was promotion of amber, its knowledge and virtues. Today’s challenges and main goals are: organizing co-operation between Association members, gallery, training courses, publishing, organizing IAA stands on amber and jewellery trade shows, the settlement of disputes between the IAA members and increasingly important research in IAA Laboratory. During the Association’s 20 years, it has become an organizer and inspirer of a significant number of amberrelated events in Poland and worldwide. The Association and its members have initiated and participated in many international and national exhibitions , symposia, conferences, promotion and publishing initiatives and participated in trade shows, created a fashion for amber jewellery and items decorated with amber which currently are reaching truly high- end prices.
Ganyklų str. 18, LT-00138 Palanga, Lithuania Tel./fax: +370 460 51230; Mob. +370 698 79791 E-mail: email@example.com www.ambermanus.com
WHAT’S THE SILVER’S FUTURE? Interview with Zbigniew KRASKA by Anna SADO The festival SILVER (SREBRO) held in Legnica – an event that is popular, highly regarded in different countries and attended by artists from all over the world – is going to have a different format. What awaits the participants in the years to come? Judging by the unabated international interest in
SILVER is an event with many years of tradition. It’s got all
SILVER in Legnica, one might get the impression that
the pros and cons of such marathons. Of course, the traditions
the event is doing well. Meanwhile, the organisers are
are valuable, but the world around is not standing still, recently
considering changes to the format. What are the reasons?
it’s been moving and changing even faster. That’s why it is
Perhaps I will start with the external ones, in which I
necessary to have a periodic “audit” of the event, the strategy
include the social, political and economic situation in Poland
and action concept: are the assumptions realised, what can be
and in Europe. Goo-political events are very likely to have a
improved and how, making sure we don’t make art for art’s
negative influence on cooperation and cultural exchange, so
sake, whether we keep up with the changes in the reality – art,
I’m expecting that the world will be less interested in our event
and in the general sense? We ask ourselves such questions with
too. Maybe we will also limit the scope of our activity... Such
each edition of the Festival. If there’s a need, we implement
an atmosphere isn’t very motivating. Increasing outlays on
the improvements, both to the programme and organisation,
the army has always brought negative outcomes for culture,
on an ongoing basis. Now, however, the external situation
after all, you don’t travel to art exhibitions by armoured
and our reality checks, expectations and ideas require a more
transporters or tanks. I don’t even want to mention here other
serious intervention, thinking everything through from scratch.
global problems, equally lethal for culture... When the time
The ongoing improvements are not sufficient anymore? Why the need to reconstruct the event from scratch?
of economic prosperity comes to an end , culture, art and jewellery are the first to die...
Because the time has come to carefully consider the
What in this narrower, inner perspective in your
practicality of the festival format, the programme, organisation
opinion needs change?
and logistics of the event. The history has come full circle – I feel
like I did nearly 20 years ago, when, out of the blue, I became the director of the Art Gallery in Legnica and had to decide about the future of SILVER. Back then I decided to continue this unique tradition, however in a different format. Today,
SILVER has grown significantly, and we are becoming a kind of victim of this development ,and to a certain extent, success. We have many new ideas that have not yet been realised, but still up-to-date, though we lack power... Frankly speaking: we don’t have enough power to organise the event. Last year we were close to bankruptcy because of that, as the main sponsor KGHM Polska Miedź S.A. refused to support the Festival – for the first time in 37 years! Saying that it needs to be all analysed from the beginning, I mean that we need to, yet again, look into the basic issues such as the character, size and scope of the event, as well as its organisation and most of all budget. Because the programme is something I’m not worried about... Do you have a plan how to get out of such an impasse? The decision has been made that, despite the risk, we are going to continue SILVER this year in the same format, albeit in a more modest size. What’s next, in the longer term? I don’t know yet. I’ve decided to devote this year to thinking about the basic issues and consult the Polish and international jewellery and gallery communities. With these people and with the current organisational possibilities and with the sponsor support level comparable to the year 2015, we are still able to organise the Festival of that size, but we are aware that it is the peak of our organisational capabilities. This is where we
Happening of the artistic group Au+
meet our Rubicon – either cross it, or go back. Standing still and gathering dust makes no sense. Ensuring the financial stability for the Festival that is
problems with assigning the amount needed. Yet another
in 70 per cent subsidised by sponsors and in 20 per cent
idea is based on separating the Festival from the Art Gallery
financed by the state and local authorities’ budget is not
and establishing it as an independent legal entity. There are
going to be easy.
quite a few ideas, though we haven’t been able to decide yet
First of all we have to become independent of the single
which of them would be the optimal one.
sponsor, which means that we have to find more entities willing
Implementing each of those ideas would, naturally,
to support our event financially. It would be perfect if we got a
entail some kind of organisational changes. Are you
long-term sponsorship contract, for many years, or ideally a few
prepared for that?
such sponsors. We must intensify our search, perhaps even use
This also requires refreshing, as – I’ve mentioned – there
crowdfunding. We’ll also have be able to sell the “produced”
are a lot of changes taking place around us, in life, in art, but
exhibitions. In a nutshell, more marketing and direct sales,
also among the artistic generation. Civilizational progress has
which is not going to be easy due to the lack of employees: our
an impact on the methods and forms of artistic practice, but it
team is still very small so don’t have a “fund raising” specialist
also forces us to make changes and revaluate the mentality of
and we all deal with it to some extent. I’m aware that it is
creators and consumers. Our mission, as a public institution,
not a model example of a working organisation. It’s a vicious
remains unchanged in its basic premise: we will still present,
circle: in order to change it, we need more money… Another,
document , promote and make contemporary art and jewellery
a bit more radical idea for salvaging the financial situation of
available. We will also educate and share knowledge about
SILVER is moving the event to a different, bigger and richer
art and jewellery with the society. We want to preserve, but
place, for instance to nearby Wrocław, which wouldn’t have
at the same time enrich the character of the Festival, which
Every year Silver means more than 20 exhibitions
in the sphere of presentation could be roughly summed up
a few exhibition cycles, which are in a way “cardinal”, such
as a combination of contemporary, avant-garde “classics”
as Creator Profiles, Silver Schools, Debuts, j-LAB, HOLOWNIA
with young, fresh demonstrations and experiments. The
and “varia”, that are various projects (both exhibitions and
main competition of the Festival will be still theme based and
educational ones). The particular points of the programme
critical. Perhaps we will introduce a change in the way of topic
are mostly prepared by us, some in cooperation with the
selection – in the last few years the biggest responsibility has
organisers, or imported as a whole. This way of constructing
been placed on the general consultant, who for over 20 years
the programme will be continued, but additionally it will
has been Professor Sławomir Fijałkowski from the Academy
be extended by further exhibition cycles and competition
of Fine Arts in Gdańsk. At the moment we are considering the
projects. We are going to announce, among others, a curator
idea of inviting a different European or international curator
competition for a given topic or fitting into a wider profile,
or artist each year and placing the responsibility of designing
for example, the j-LAB (novelty projects, experiments), and
the theme of the competition on them. Another option – to
finally – the fully open competitions, in which the only limit
be discussed – is launching a competition for the slogan of
will be creativity of the participants. Will all of them still have jewellery as their leading
the leading event of the Festival, that is the competition and
exhibition. Further improvements will concern the review of the
Yes, jewellery will remain the main protagonist of the
Festival programme, the details of its content and the method
festival events, but we would like to “flirt” a bit more with
of creation. Let me remind everyone that currently it includes
the design of objects and fashion. We also want to relate to
Jewellery by Timothy CARSON
Jewellery by Alexander BLANK
Jewellery Art that has been taking place since 1979 (until
utensils and everyday objects. The novelty that is favourable
1998 in the format of a review of Polish creators’ works). The
to the openness to the world and new phenomena stated in
competition is of a purely artistic character: it gives precedence
the programme will be establishing a programme council
to the idea, value and the sense of artistic expression of the
of the SILVER Festival that will be responsible for setting the
creator, and the works are evaluated by an international jury
development directions and put forward particular solutions.
panel, composed of eminent goldsmithery personalities
After collecting and organising all of those ideas, a
from Poland and the whole world. The leading themes –
brand new SILVER might be created! But this would start
such as SELF-PORTRAIT, CIRCLE, MINIMUM, CONSTRUCTION-
as of the next year...
DECONSTRUCTION, SEXY, ABSOLUTE BEAUTY, BORDERS, CITY –
I strongly hope so, and perhaps I am not alone. The new
relate to the context of current events not only in the field of
opening means new opportunities that we will try to use with
aesthetics, but also what is widely understood as social reality.
the artists and jewellery art as such in mind. And if our EU
This year’s theme is: IDENTITY.
grant application is successful and we receive a subsidy for the
The Festival is primarily the place of meetings and
our basement adaptation for the exhibition purposes, soon
discussion among the people who are fond of the
everybody in Legnica and in Poland will be able to enjoy the
contemporary jewellery, rather than a scientific or exhibition
permanent exhibition of our international jewellery collection. It
centre. Currently it is accompanied by over 20 exhibitions, a
will really be a brand new quality of “silver Legnica” because the
theoretical seminar, educational and happening auctions, as
fans of this branch of art will be able to admire it all year round,
well as a few additional events (film shows, concerts etc.). The
not only for a month in May. And this is the sense that – despite
last two decades have reinforced the high rank and prestigious
various difficulties – gives us the motivation for the future.
position of the Festival on the international scene: Legnica, a town of 100,000 inhabitants in the southern Poland is visited
THE SILVER FESTIVAL IN LEGNICA
by about 200 foreign visitors during the Festival.
The festival consists of dozens of artistic events, the most important of which is the International Competition of the
› www.galeria.legnica.pl, www.silver.legnica.pl
the latest trends under the SMART slogan – from jewellery to
TREASURE FOUND BY AN ACCIDENT Chinese paleontologist Xing Lida at an amber market in northern Myanmar found one in
a lifetime find. The trader did not understand what he was selling. The amber, which weighs 6.5Â grams, contains bone fragments and feathers, adding to mounting fossil evidence that many dinosaurs sported primitive plumage rather than scales. The tail section belongs to a young coelurosaurian â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from the same group of dinosaurs as the predatory velociraptors and the tyrannosaurus. The sparrow-sized creature could have danced in the palm of your hand. The creature would have had a whip-like tail like a mouse but covered with contour feathers similar to those that give shape and color to birds.
Major Trade Fairs in February 2017 – August 2017 Junwex 2017 Date: 1–5 February, 2017 Location: St. Petersbourg www.junewex.com firstname.lastname@example.org Jewellery Expo Ukraine 2017 Date: 8–10 February, 2017 Location: Kiev, Ukraine www.kmkya.kiev.ua email@example.com Asia Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair-March Date: 1–4 March, 2017 Venue: HKCEC, Hong Kong www.asiafja.com firstname.lastname@example.org XIV International Baltic Jewellery Show Amber Trip Date: 8–11 March, 2017 Location: Vilnius, Lithuania www.ambertrip.com email@example.com Istanbul Jewelry Show March Date: 16–19 March, 2017 Venue: CNR Expo Center, Istambul, Turkey www.istanbuljewelryshow.com firstname.lastname@example.org Amberif, International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones Date: 22–25 March, 2017 Venue: Exhibition Center Gdansk, Gdansk, Poland http://www.amberif.amberexpo.pl email@example.com firstname.lastname@example.org BASELWORLD 2017 Date: 23–30 March, 2017 Location: Basel, Switzerland www.baselworld.com email@example.com Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe Date: 25–28 March, 2017 Locationa: Messe Freiburg, Freiburg, Germany www.JGF-Europe.com firstname.lastname@example.org
40th Mideast Watch & Jewellery Show 2017 Date: 4–8 April, 2017 Location: Sharjah, United Arab Emirates www.mideastjewellery.com email@example.com Aru-2017, 28 International Jewellery Fair Date: 6–9 April 2017 Location: Almaty, Kazakhstan www.kazexpo.kz firstname.lastname@example.org Jewelry Fair Korea Date: 21–24 April, 2017 Location: Seoul, Korea www.jewelfair.com email@example.com International Jewelry & Watch Show Abu Dhabi (JWS) Date: 2–6 May, 2017 Location: Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates www.jws.ae Mohamad.firstname.lastname@example.org Oroarezzo Date: 6–9 May, 2017 Location: Arezzo, Italy www.oroarezzo.it email@example.com IJK –21st International Jewellery Kobe 2017 Date: 17–19 May, 2017 Location: Tokyo, Japan www.ijk-fair.jp firstname.lastname@example.org Junwex New Russian Style Date: 24–29 May, 2017 Location: Moscow, Russia www.eng.rjexpert.ru email@example.com G.L.D.A. Las Vegas Gem & Jewelry Show Date: 29 May – 1 June, 2017 Location: Las Vegas, USA www.glda.com firstname.lastname@example.org
Jovella 2017 Date: 3–4 July, 2017 Venue: Tel Aviv, Israel http://www.stier.co.il/Jovella/index_en.asp email@example.com JCK Las Vegas Date: 5–8 June, 2017 Venue: Las Vegas, USA www.jckonline.com firstname.lastname@example.org JUBINALE 2017 Date: 8–10 June, 2017 Venue: Krakow, Poland www.jubinale.com email@example.com India International Jewellery Show Date: August, 2017 (Dates to be confirmed) Venue: Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai, India www.iijs.org firstname.lastname@example.org Norwegian Gold & Ur Date: 26–28 August, 2017 Venue: Lillestrøm Exhibition's, Norway www.gull-og-ur-messe.no email@example.com Japan Jewellery Fair (JJF) Date: 28–30 August, 2017 Venue: Tokyo, Japan www.japanjewelleryfair.com firstname.lastname@example.org AMBERMART Date: 31 August – 2 September, 2017 Venue: Gdansk, Poland www.ambermart.amberexpo.pl email@example.com September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Date: 13–17 September, 2017 www.Jewellerynetasia.com firstname.lastname@example.org
MAJOR JEWELLERY TRADE FAIRS
MAJOR JEWELLERY TRADE FAIRS February 2017 – August 2017
Gint ar u dekor uoti rankų dar bo odiniai papuošalai Originalūs, vienetiniai Baltijos gintaro ir natūralios odos papuošalai. Mūsų darbai išskirtiniai, nes kiekvienas dirbinys nuo pradžios iki pabaigos — tai kruopštaus rankų darbo, reikalaujančio daug kantrybės, kruopštumo bei kūrybiškumo, rezultatas. Priklausomai nuo gintaro spalvos, parenkame ir natūralios odos atspalvius. Taip gimsta įspūdingo grožio Baltijos jūros gintaro, „aprengto“ natūralia oda, papuošalai kurie jus džiugins tikrai ilgai. - +37065637395 (LTU) - +37060792960 (EN) - www.amberblacksmith.eu - email@example.com -
This year the following exhibitors in the exhibition AMBER TRIP
are Financed by the EUROPEAN REGIONAL
DEVELOPMENT FUND: UAB Max Solar Energy E. Zumbricko IĮ UAB Silver Amber Dainiaus Miliaus ŪKĮ Amberlita Napoleonas – Amber Jewelery Co A. Jukna RMD Linija Damjon Amber J. Damzens UAB Saniston Baltic Gritpedziai ir KO – Amber by mazukna A.Petkeviciaus prekybos įmonė Amber Home Pajūrio Krantas E. Dunausko Į Amber Tree AMRD Amber Lina Amber Amber Mozaika Romo Balšaičio gintaro dirbtuvė Ambero Sidabrinė kamėja UAB UAB Rufinija Lamberus Hermis Nida Amber Eketa – Amber888 Amber Buy Lašas R. Benečio įm/Vaidenis Gedvilas
AMBER DM AMBER JEWELRY PRODUCTION COMPANY
A VARIETY OF NATURAL BALTIC AMBER PRODUCTSâ&#x20AC;¦ Mob. tel. (+370) 60613750 Viber (+370) 68759712 Tel/fax. (+370) 44542888
firstname.lastname@example.org email@example.com Skype: dainius777xxx
WeChat dainiusp88 www.amberdm.lt
D. M I L I US U K I . , S u ke s k m . , K r e t i n g o s r a j . , LT 97 2 5 1 L I T H UA N I A
AMBER JEWELLERY AMBER STONES Taikos pr. 81a–2, Klaipėda, Lithuania Tel. +370 464 955 40 Mob. tel. +370 652 560 56 +370 652 530 52 firstname.lastname@example.org
A M B E R INCLUSIONS
AMBER WARES, INCLUSIONS BERNSTEINSCHMUCK, INKLUSEN GINTARO DIRBINIAI, -
Amber Inclusions MB Talino 33/1, 05200, Vilnius, Lithuania tel.: +370 699 576 77, +370 646 302 34 e-mail: email@example.com www.amberinclusions.lt www.amberinclusions.eu
Amber Tree Souvenirs from amber Suvenyrai iš gintaro
www.ambertree.lt Ukmergės g. 221–32, Vilnius, Lithuania firstname.lastname@example.org Skype – raimis4422
UAB “Rufinija” savo veiklą vykdo jau 12 metų. Per šiuos metus įgijome daug patirties ir galime pasiūlyti kokybiškos gintaro žaliavos bei platų gaminių pasirinkimą.
UAB "Rufinija" Įmonės kodas 161743820 Rotušės a 2–3, Kretinga Tel. 864791816 Direktorius Algimantas MARTINKUS E-mail: email@example.com
Genuine Baltic Sea amber www.nidaamber.com +370 614 93106 Vilnius, Lithuania Darius@nidaamber.com +86 150-2176-3738 Shanghai, China firstname.lastname@example.org
www.amber888.com email@example.com tel./viber +370 618 66 239 www.facebook.com/baltic.amber.52 WeChat: remiamber
Uab EKETA Pasienieciu 33 Kretinga Lithuania
When I first picked up a piece of amber, I made a brooch from it. For me it was simple, cute and beautiful. It all started as a hobby. Little by little it became a full time normal work. Work to me is a pleasure. I established my own company in 1995. It is an Individual company, family business. All family members are participants in this business. My products are marketed in the local market as well as in other countries. My wish is very simple: if you liked my work pieces, let it reache your home.
OWNER OF THE R. LITVINO COMPANY
+370 696 000 17 firstname.lastname@example.org ww.amberpictures.eu
XV INTERNATIONAL BALTIC JEWELLERY SHOW
AMBER TRIP MARCH, 2018 LITEXPO
LAISVES AV. 5, VILNIUS, LITHUANIA
TEL. +370 618 53538 • email@example.com • www.ambertrip.com