THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
BALI & BEYOND APRIL 2009
VOLUME 11 NO. 107
DECADE’S NEW MOON A GRAND CEREMONY OF HARMONY, HELD ONCE IN EVERY TEN YEARS AT BESAKIH TEMPLE
FLYING RESIDENTS OF PETULU PETULU IS ALL ABOUT ITS RESIDENTS - THOSE RETURNING HOME FROM THE SKY AND ROOSTING ON THEIR WITHY BEDS
GRAND FEAST FOR THE DEAD TORAJAN FUNERALS HAVE ALWAYS BEEN VERY INTERESTING, IF NOT EXOTIC
NEW & NEWS • INFO INDEX • MAP OF BALI • CLASSIFIED COLUMNS BALI&BEYOND
teamtalk 04.09 swim in Jimbaran bay followed by a 40-kilometer bike ride along the route that will be used for the Triathlon, which will commence on June 28. There’s lots of time for training up to the event, so plan on heading to Bali to see the athletes from all around the world battle it out in Jimbaran Bay.
APRIL... NO FOOLIN’ ‘Om Swastyastu...’ Welcome to the archipelago and to the April 2009 edition of Bali & Beyond.
For the time being, enjoy this edition of Bali & Beyond as we present to you a major current happening. There is good news if you happen to be in Bali up until April 27; you’ll have a chance to witness for yourself the Panca Wali Krama – a ceremony only celebrated once every 10 years at the Besakih temple. Read about it in this month’s Craft & Culture.
We continue to present to you articles and information that we hope will be useful for you during your time on the island and beyond.
PHOTO BY I NYOMAN ARI GUNADI
Time does seemingly fly, and it felt as if it was just only recently that the MRA Bali International Triathlon was held at the Coconut Grove of the Four Seasons Resort in Jimbaran, with triathletes and spectators flocking the shores of the
bay. And here we were again, at the press conference of this year’s third installment of the only open annual triathlon event held on this popular island resort. The MRA Bali International Triathlon is sponsored by the MRA group of companies, also our publisher, and generously supported by the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay. Immediately following a short speech from the committee and Richard Sam Bera, the Indonesian competitive swimming champion and the editor-in-chief of our sister Indonesian publications, FHM & Men’s Fitness, seen here being shot by our photographic intern, led a “warm-up” 6
This month’s Pondering Point topic is on the announcement that the Ngurah Rai airport is to undergo expansion this year. Through Profiles & Portraits we meet up with an antique ceramics collector who has embraced his expansive collection as an appreciation of art. And for an option to unwind after or in between adventures, read Invite & Indulge as a spa curator shares her inside knowledge on the creation of a successful spa concept, likening it to that of developing a restaurant - essential ingredients need to be considered. A dynamic manager to inspire, passionate therapists, and an interesting menu to appeal to the senses. In Beyond Bali our contributor takes you to see unique and grand funeral processions in the high regions of Toraja in Sulawesi. In Capital Corner, it’s a discovery of a cozy dining spot located in Jakarta’s prestigious Menteng area, nestled in a thick and shady garden.
Fadil Aziz is a travel photographer whose main passion is capturing the archipelago’s beauty. His portfolio is at www.alcibbumphotography.com
Kathy Petite spends her time writing about travel, lifestyle, arts and culture. She also writes songs, and is writing a novel she never gets to finish.
Donny Cahyadi is a member of the Bangli royal family and enjoys recording aspects of his Balinese culture and heritage, as well as the simple outdoors.
Judy Chapman is former Editor-in-Chief for Spa Asia magazine and author of 4 bestselling books on spa’s and wellbeing including Ultimate Spa (Periplus).
Johannes P. Christo uses photography to channel his deep passion for documentation, capturing social life, travels, culture and current issues.
Happy reading! ‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ The Team
Nambe Herpo was allured by the island’s culture and natural vistas that have so far been lending him a hand in finding his own hands to start writing.
BALI & BEYOND Deputy General Manager Managing Editor Editorial Assistant
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Contributors GEMBIRA PUTRA AGAM, FADIL AZIZ, DONNY CAHYADI, JUDY CHAPMAN, JOHANNES P. CHRISTO, NAMBE HERPO, KATHY PETITE, WIDNYANA SUDIBYA Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription Tel: (021) 315 2683/84, 391 0969 Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO Pre Press PT. DIAN RAKYAT BALI Printing PT. SUBUR JARINGAN CETAK TERPADU, JAKARTA OFFICE Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 120 C / Lt. 2, Kuta, Bali 80361 Tel: (62-361) 764 274, 752 684 Fax: (62-361) 762 096 E-mail:email@example.com http://www.baliandbeyond.co.id Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. ÂŠ 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590
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contents 04.09 THE SUN... THE SAND... TH E SUR F... T HE CULT URE OF PARADISE AN D OVER 18,000 SURROUN DIN G ISLA N D S
April 2009 Volume 11 No. 107
BEYONDBALI A GRAND FEAST FOR THE DEAD
Torajan funerals have always been very interesting, if not exotic. Its people are believed to be the first wave of tribes to inhabit the Indonesian archipelago. 8
CRAFT&CULTURE DECADE'S NEW MOON Good news if you happen to be in Bali up to April 27; you have a chance to witness for yourself the Panca Wali Krama – a ceremony only celebrated every 10 years at the Besakih temple.
26 INVITE&INDULGE IT’S ALL ABOUT THE THERAPISTS A spa curator talks of Karma Spa, the new offering at the Karma Kandara; all about soulful and spiritual encounters.
contents 04.09 THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
April 2009 Volume 11 No. 107
CERAMICS: ART APPRECIATION
COVER Towerings of Toraja Photo courtesy: TPG Images Location: Tana Toraja, Sulawesi
Meet a man and his vast and colorful collection of thousand-year-old antique ceramic items.
+ 34 PONDERINGPOINT AIRPORT… SERVICES, SO-SO? Ngurah Rai International Airport was announced to undergo expansion this year. Expectations on the results are high...
12 NEW&NEWS This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island. 54 BEYONDUPDATES News updates from the tourism industry and what’s new beyond Bali.
36 ACTION&ATTRACTIONS FLYING RESIDENTS OF PETULU Petulu is all about its residents, especially those returning home from a day’s labor, arriving above from the sky and roosting on their withy beds.
58 COMMUNITYCALENDAR Schedules, calendar highlights and various happenings of interest, from art exhibitions to special events.
CAPITALCORNER A “LUSH-CIOUS” TREAT Cali Deli can be a nice destination for friends or families who like lounging at a lush shady place while enjoying some fresh tasty bread and sandwiches. 10
64 SEE&SEEN Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month. 70 BALIMAPS Map of Bali showing specific tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations. 73 CLASSIFIEDCOLUMNS Listings and product descriptions from various clientele. 74 INFOINDEX Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses.
LULL OF THE LOFTS
HEALING ENERGIES Anantara Seminyak Bali recently introduced Warmana, a Reiki Master experienced since 1999, assisting guests in opening and creating their journey in discovering the inner life forces that energize the body. Reiki treats the whole person, including the body, emotions, mind, and spirit, creating many beneficial effects that include relaxation and feelings of peace, security and well being. Reiki is a simple, natural and safe method of spiritual healing. It also works in conjunction with all other medical and therapeutic techniques to relieve side effects and promote recovery. Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa Jl. Abimanyu, Seminyak, (0361) 737-773 www.bali.anantara.com 12
MEATY TEA! Golden Lotus Restaurant, ‘an MSG-Free Restaurant’, presents its special bak kut teh promotion this quarter, a Chinese soup popular in Malaysia, Singapore, China and Thailand. The name literally translates as “meat bone tea”, and at its simplest consists of meaty pork ribs in a complex broth of herbs and spices (including star anise, cinnamon, cloves, dang gui, and garlic). However, additional ingredients may include varieties of mushrooms, lettuce and pieces of dried tofu. Light and dark soy sauce are also added to the soup during cooking, depending on the variant. Bak kut teh was introduced to Malaya in the 19th century by Chinese workers from Hong Kong, Canton and Fujian. They ate bak kut teh to gain energy, usually eating it with rice or noodles, and often served with youtiao (strips of fried dough) for dipping into the soup. Soy sauce is preferred as a condiment, with chopped chili padi and minced garlic mixed in. You can try bak kut teh at the Golden Lotus up until the end of June, with a fix-priced rate of Rp. 70,000. For information and reservations, call the Golden Lotus Restaurant at the Bali Dynasty Resort, (0361) 753-403, Ext. 8502. Bali Dynasty Resort, Jalan Kartika, Tuban, South Kuta, (0361) 752-403 www.balidynasty.com; www.primeplazahotels.com COURTESY IMAGE
Mango Tree Spa by L’Occitane debuts this month, combining indigenous therapies with L’Occitane signature treatments and exclusive products. Body and beauty rituals are performed in bamboo tree houses perched amidst the top branches of several mango trees. Guests can indulge to the soothing sounds of the Ayung River in a natural setting encompassed by tropical greenery. Mango Tree Spa by L’Occitane offers 6 exclusive treatment rooms and a steam room, all with different settings and surrounded by lush greenery. Each setting has been specially designed to harmonize with the characteristics of specific treatments offered. For spa reservation, contact: Spa Manager Mr. Dewa Redana, (0361) 975-478 email@example.com
Best Western announces the debut of the Best Western New Kuta Condotel this month. Located on Dreamland Beach, the hotel boasts 278 guest rooms with world-class facilities. The Best Western New Kuta Condotel is the first property of the Best Western to open in Bali. The hotel features a swimming pool with shady lounges, but also for a rigorous workout the hotel presents a comprehensive fitness facility. Or one may opt to de-stress in the quiet ambience of the Bhuvana spa, the Best Western’s spa exclusively for Best Western member hotels. For dining and entertainment, the hotel has a stylish restaurant serving international cuisine, a lobby lounge, clubhouse, an entertainment center and a shopping arcade to complete one’s vacation experience. Guests can also go out for a golf game nearby, while business executives may use the hotel’s fully equipped business center and meeting rooms and be assured of a productive and pleasurable stay. The Best Western New Kuta Condotel marks its strong presence in Indonesia as the first Best Western hotel in Bali, with a few more to open later this year. The Best Western New Kuta Condotel is located at the Kawasan Pecatu Indah Resort. Best Western New Kuta Condotel, Jl. New Kuta Condotel, Pecatu, Kuta Selatan, (0361) 8484-555. Best Western International, +66 2656-1260, ext. 131 www.bestwestern.com
NEAR BALI’S WESTERN CLIFFS
JULY CIRCUIT: BALI
InterContinental Bali Resort presents a fun-filled long weekend to celebrate Easter from April 10-12. Festivities will get underway on Good Friday with a Sunset Bonfire Seafood Barbeque Dinner. The highlight of the weekend will be the Resort’s famous ‘Alice in Wonderland Tea Party’ on Saturday afternoon. Sunday morning begins with an Easter Egg Hunt in the Resort’s gardens. Sunday evening features Spirit of Bali Dinner with an extensive buffet dinner of local delicacies accompanied by a performance of traditional dance and music. For further information, call (0361) 701-888 or visit www.bali.intercontinental.com.
Billabong announces a fully sanctioned, grade five Pro Junior men’s event to be held in Bali in July. After working with the ASP (Association of Surfing Professionals) to make the competition part of the overall Australasian Junior Series, the $30,000 Billabong Pro Junior Series Bali will be held at Keramas Beach in Gianyar from July 21-27. The Pro Junior Series Bali is the third Billabong event on the eight stop Australasian circuit. A host of Indonesia’s best young surfers have made their way through the Australasian series in the past five years, with the nation boasting a huge talent pool of future surf stars. Pictured: Former pro Junior Surfer Heath Joske (AUS) drops into a perfect Keramas right hander. www.isctour.com; www.billabong.com
The latest to join the contenders on The Road To Bali for the Commonwealth Bank Tournament of Champions, which will be held from November 4-8 at The Westin Resort in Nusa Dua, is Venus Williams and Marion Bartoli. Venus Williams first competed on hard-court in Dubai, winning the title, and then flying halfway around the world to Mexico and competing in Acapulco on clay, and winning again. The reigning Wimbledon champion and American legend put her name into the pot as a potential qualifier for the season-ending extravaganza. The player she beat in the final, two-time Bali quarter-finalist Flavia Pennetta felt a little stunned after her 6-1 6-2 defeat. Marion Bartoli won her first title since late 2006. The former Wimbledon runner-up, who also reached the 2006 Bali final before conceding to Svetlana Kuznetsova, defeated China’s Li Na 6-4 6-3 at the Monterrey Open in Mexico to claim her fourth career title. Her triumph came just a day after she earned her 300th career singles victory in the semifinals over another Chinese, Zheng Jie. The 30-tournament series comprising The Road To Bali recently took a pause, but resumes this month on April 6 at Ponte Vedra Beach in Florida and Marbella in Spain. www.commbanktennis.com
CONTINUES... THE ROAD TO BALI
SPA, STRENGTHENED Pevonia Botanica, a world leading professional, face, body and spa brand, officially launches this month in the Prana Spa at the Villas, Bali. Renowned for being one of the unique spas of the world, The Prana Spa boasts the ultimate in pampering and relaxation by incorporating specially designed Pevonia Botanica treatments with a tranquil environment. It features an exotic open air courtyard, hot and cold plunge pools, two saunas, three stream rooms, four rain showers and fourteen private baths. Offering authentic Ayurvedic, traditional Balinese Jamu, and contemporary beauty treatments, Prana Spa professional treatments are coupled with fine quality natural ingredients and further strengthened by the use of Pevonia Botanica’s spa line. They have selected a skincare line made available specifically for facial treatments, including Escutox and Caviar Luxe Facial, Men’s Revival Facial with Propolis, Balancing Facial and De Stress Eye Wrinkle Treatment. PT Universal Aesthetics Asia Pacific, (0361) 265-037 www.pevonia.co.id 16
Biznet expands Fiber to The Home Technology or known as FTTH to Bali. This FTTH technology uses an advanced network called Gigabit Ethernet Passive Optical Network or GEPON that can deliver triple play services consisting of data (Internet), voice (VoIP) and video (Interactive TV). Biznet’s FTTH network in Bali started operating in January from Jimbaran to Kuta, with a total of around 30 km of route installed. “Data shows that the percentage of internet user penetration is only 10.5% from Indonesia’s total population. Looking at the huge market potential and the increase of the internet users in Bali we have dedicated to widen our network reach in Bali,” says Endra Leonardy, VP Marketing Strategy and Support (pictured left), at the opening ceremony on March 13 at Kuta Suci Arcade in Kuta. www.biznetnetworks.com
PHOTO BY NOVENA ASSEN
HAIL TO THE CHEF!
Lotus Restaurants introduces its new Executive Chef, Agung Putra Dalem, who will be at the culinary helm and supervising the Lotus Restaurant outlets in Bali and Lombok. Chef Agung Putra hails from the royal Balinese palace of Puri Kaleran in Peliatan, Ubud, and brings with him decades of extensive experience in similar positions at various posts in Sari Pacific Hotels in Jakarta, Singapore and Canada, and the Mandarin Oriental Group in Jakarta, Hong Kong, Bangkok, Sydney, Singapore, Manila, San Francisco, and The Excelsior in Hong Kong. He has also held a position as Vice President of Les Toques Blanches on Seccee Indonesia. With culinary expertise and native Balinese artistic skills, he has mastered Balinese cooking arts, fruit and vegetable artistry, as well as butter and ice carving. www.lotus-restaurants.com
EPICUREAN JOURNEY The Laguna Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, introduces the “Laguna’s Gourmet Journey” through April 2009. An evening begins with cocktails and canapés at the Cascade Bar, then continues with a tantalizing five course menu selection to be savored as the journey progresses through a number of the resort’s fine restaurants and bars guided by a dedicated Butler. Mayang Sari Restaurant serves the first and second courses, and a leisurely stroll to the Ocean Terrace Restaurant luxuriates in beachfront dining. To end the adventure guests are offered the resort’s signature “Laguna Dessert Selection” including coffee or tea and liquors at the Sand Bar. The Laguna Resort’s Epicurean Walk also welcomes vegetarians, and can be catered according to preferences. The Epicurean Walk package prices start from Rp. 750,000++/person (without wine) or Rp. 1,350,000++/person (including wine). For further information and reservations, contact The Butler at The Laguna Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, (0361) 771-327 www.luxurycollection.com/bali
PHOTOS BY HAMISH HUMPHREYS
Rip Curl welcomes 15-year-old Putra Hermawan to its surf team. After showcasing his talent through the Rip Curl GromSearch competitions, Putra now follows in the footsteps of fellow Rip Curl team riders Oney Anwar, Garut Widiartha and Mega Semadhi. As a member of Rip Curl’s Grommet development program, Putra Hermawan will have full access to Rip Curls training camps and facilities. In addition Rip Curl will cover his school fees and provide him with a monthly allowance to cover his living costs. For further information contact Rip Curl team manager, Wayan Rahyudha at firstname.lastname@example.org Rip Curl, (0361) 754-455, www.ripcurl.com
PHOTO BY GUSTRA
PHOTO BY GUSTRA
PHOTO BY GUSTRA
PHOTO BY DONNY CAHYADI
PHOTO BY DONNY CAHYADI
DECADE’S NEW MOON It is good news if you happen to be in Bali between March 25 and April 27; you have a chance to witness the Panca Wali Krama – a ceremony only celebrated every 10 years at the Besakih temple.
or Balinese Hindus, the Panca
worse negative effects in nature and in
netherworld at the same time. As with
Wali Krama is very important
some other belief systems, the heavens
as a grand liturgy. During this
Nature and all its content must be
and the underworld are considered as
ceremony, Hindus make a
kept in balance, thus there is the need
two opposing and separate subjects.
tawur agung, or the ‘great
for a moment of evaluation. And as
God is represented with all of goodness,
tawur’; a greater form of caru
Balinese Hindus put much meaning to
greatness, purity, and perfection.
or sacrificial practice in promoting harmony.
such a moment, it is reflected through
Meanwhile, butha kala is the opposite.
In essence, the ceremony is an effort
a ceremony that is also a medium for
towards maintaining the virtues of harmony.
representing their feelings and senses.
Throughout the course of time, some
This ceremony falls into the Dewa
Yet this ceremony is meant to harmonize all ends, and both deity and demon are praised equally. Balance
principles in life tend to shift and divert,
Yadnya and Butha Yadnya Hindu
happens when the same amount of
and if left prolonged, will lead to a cosmic
categories of sacrificial worships,
significance and attention to both spirits
imbalance and disharmony will result after.
worshipping both gods and deities of
is promoted. The gods and the almighty
Prolonged disharmony can then lead to even
the heavens and the bhuta kalas of the
power that created the whole universe are BALI&BEYOND
This ceremony falls into the Dewa Yadnya and Butha Yadnya Hindu category of sacrificial worship, worshipping both gods and deities of the heavens as well as the bhuta kala opposing forces of the netherworld.
worshipped. Butha kala are also respected
modern-day Balinese Hindu priest in one
as part of the universe. Both coexisting
of his articles, the Eka Dasa Rudra will be
a big calamity that goes on for several
forces are praised in harmony.
held after 10 Panca Wali Krama episodes.
continuous days. It could also take place
The Panca Wali Krama is held on a
when rulers urge for one to be held, as in
As a matter of fact, the Panca Wali
Other conditions include when there
Krama is not the only grand ceremony
Tilem Caitra or Tilem Kesanga (“ninth new
the Rajadom times in the Denpasar and
held in Bali. There is the still grander Eka
moon” on the Balinese calendar system)
Dasa Rudra, which takes place once in
when the Saka year ends with “0” (one
every 100 years. It was last held in 1979,
zero) or every ten years. The last Panca
be held at the Besakih temple in the
coinciding with the Saka year 1900.
Bali Krama was held on a Tilem Caitra of
Karangasem regency. It is perched at the
Saka 1920, March 17, 1999.
foot of Mount Agung, the highest mount in
A holy Hindu manuscript, the Lontar
The Panca Wali Krama this time will
Indik Ngekadasa Rudra, states that if
Some literature also states that the
a Saka year ends with two zeros, the
Panca Wali Krama can be held on specific
possibility of nature’s shifts are at large.
occasions. The routine is when the Saka
a prominent historical Hindu saint. When
Then will be the time to present a Tawur
year ends with one zero - just as what
he meditated at Mount Raung in East Java,
Jagat, or grand-scale sacrificial ceremony.
occurred last month on March 25. This is
he received a revelation that ordered him
also the last day of the Saka year 1930.
to come to the neighboring island of Bali.
According to Bhagawan Dwija, a 22
Bali. Besakih itself has a long history. It was initiated by the Resi Markandeya,
On his first visit he brought with him 8,000
temple. This is also the reason why the
followers. But many bad things occurred
Panca Wali Krama is held at Besakih temple.
to them. So the Resi Markandeya decided
As it is a major highlight on the islandâ€™s
supporting structures and infrastructures. The government also coordinates with the kelian adat or village leaders to
to go back to Java and meditate again.
Hindu almanac, this ceremony goes under
discuss all aspects of the ceremony. For
And again he received a revelation to head
the responsibility of the government.
example, when carrying out the pelelastian
back to Bali, but before departure and
Before it was handled by the kingdoms
or purification processions, where people
after arrival in Bali he had to administer
but now it is under the Bali provincial
bring all related sacred and holy objects
a ceremony for the gods, deities and the
towards the waterline and beaches
All of the islandâ€™s Hindus, Bali-wide,
in March, 29 village leaders from the
The second journey then proved
get involved in this grand ceremony. They
Klungkung and Karangasem regencies
successful. The Resi buried panca datu,
either provide personal contributions such
gather to discuss the task distributions.
five metallic elements (gold, silver, iron,
as funds or goods, or contribute their
Those 29 villages are villages that were
bronze, and copper) in the place we now
energy. Energy is referred to as ngayah,
passed through by the grand procession,
know as Besakih temple. This took place in
a time of service when people both men
3 days and 2 nights, from March 21-23.
the 8th century. Until now, people believe
and women take part in the ceremonial
Besides technical aspects of the
that Besakih is the Balinese Hindu mother
preparations, the various facilities,
Pelelastian, it is also agreed on the orderly BALI&BEYOND
Ngayah is a prominent aspect, a time of service when both men and women take part in ceremonial preparations of the various facilities, supporting structures and infrastructures of the grander scheme.
and sanctified course of the pilgrimage,
impurities shall not stain the holiness of the
an annual ceremony at the Besakih temple.
such as the use of organic and natural
The ceremony itself means all gods and
materials for the decorated penjor bamboo poles along the way. The Bali provincial government had also
A small ceremony, nuwasen, was also carried out before the grand ceremonies, held at the family and village levels where
goddesses descend to earth to endow all life on earth with their blessings. If you want to attend the big ceremony
issued a prohibition for ngaben cremation
holy water was sprinkled over gravesites of
at Besakih do not forget to don suitable
ceremonies from February 21 to April 27,
the not yet cremated, with the main notion
Balinese attire. One’s heart must be in
2009. If deaths do occur between the
of making everything holy in welcoming the
peace and void of any sorrow. And women
period; burials must be done after sunset.
Panca Wali Krama.
must make sure that they are not in their
Ketut Wiana from the PHDI (the
Preparations for the grand ceremony
periods. Both of these conditions may
Indonesian Hindu Dharma Religious Affairs
started on January 29 with a paruman
body) stated that this prohibition is put
sulinggih, the gathering of priests. It was
into effect in order to have people more
continued by other gatherings and some
come by day and night. By day, visitors
focused on the grand ceremony. Ngaben
small ceremonies. Finally the top of the
are mostly groups of students and staff
take a lot of time, power, money, and
agenda took place on March 25. But this
coordinated by their institutions. By night,
concentration. It not only involves the main
does not mean that the ceremony will
mostly are families and individuals.
family but also the large span of relatives
cease the next day. It will still continue
and even the banjar or sub villages.
until April 27. It gives the opportunity for
Wali Krama can be found at purabesakih.
Balinese Hindus anywhere to come to
blogspot.com (a web log maintained by
Besakih during that period.
committee member Widnyana Sudibya,
IGN Sudiana, head of the PHDI, also explained that the prohibition was
‘contaminate’ the holy proceedings. Nights are pretty cold there, yet people
Profuse information on this year’s Panca
stated in Hindu literatures such as the
Especially due to the fact that on
Lontar Bhama Kertih manuscript. Such
April 9 there is also big ceremony held in
Text by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati,
a prohibition is just like a firewall in that
Besakih called Bhatara Turun Kabeh. It is
Photos by Widnyana Sudibya
mainly in Indonesian). ■
IT’S ALL ABOUT THE THERAPISTS Spa shacks and healing huts. Organic therapies and fresh kelp ‘live’ rituals. Reiki bodyworkers and local healers. You can feel the heart of a place through its indigenous offerings. Karma Spa, the new offering at Karma Kandara, is all about soulful and spiritual encounters.
he creation of a successful spa concept can be likened to developing a restaurant. Essential ingredients need to be considered. A dynamic manager to
inspire, passionate therapists, and an interesting menu to appeal to the senses. This is why when asked to curate Karma Spa at Karma Kandara, Bali, I chose to work initially on developing a rock-solid team. After all, the most memorable spas
are ultimately about the therapist’s touch.
bring in just as much revenue as F&B and
the high-end leisure resort market; when
It’s that precious moment when a
room nights. Suddenly hotel owners and
traveling with family or friends he could not
‘healers’ hands rest on one’s body that
associates are sitting up and taking notice.
find a product offering the highest quality
seals the experience. The world of spas holds a fascinating
A Little Bit of Karma’s History: Founded
accommodation coupled with seamless
by the charismatic John Spence, a
service and luxury lifestyle facilities. The
history. Built from a combination of
visionary entrepreneur, Karma Kandara
result? Karma Resorts, offering private
doctors, scientists, healers, greenies,
is part of his growing portfolio of lifestyle
villa accommodation combined with
alternative and new-age practitioners,
boutique hotels, most of which feature
the amenities of a modern luxury resort
more recently it’s become a business in
in the Small Luxury Hotels of the World.
– located in Koh Samui and Bali. Future
its own right. Only a few years ago hotel
Over the past sixteen years, as John
locations for Karma (and spas) include East
spas existed purely as a service to their
successfully developed fourteen properties
Bali, Chiang Mai and the Margaret River
guests, but today the spa department can
across the world, he noticed a gap in
wine region in Australia. BALI&BEYOND
With Bali bountiful with incredible healers, it wasn’t hard to identify quality
training that they now infuse into most
has been known to say about the
treatment: “It makes my skin look dope”.
practitioners and trainers to become part
Treatment-wise, Karma is largely
of Karma. When creating the menu, Spa
organic and uses fresh kelp farmed from
much part of the cure. International
manager Ni Made ‘Ami’ Sulasmi and I
our own shores and blend this to make
DJ’s play at Nammos, the beach bar,
looked at what our bodyworkers loved
an incredible detox scrub. Still, we also
celebrity rugby-players lead retreats that
to do most and built from here. Hence
recognize there’s nothing wrong with a
comprise morning boot camp workouts
‘Alit’s Reflexology Session’, ‘Sofi’s Holistic
few indulgences here and there which is
and a “Lets all meet for a beer” at sunset
Organic Facial’ and most recently ‘Tari’s
why we chose to introduce the ‘Oxygen
while the on-going ‘Martini and Manicure’
Warm Stone Chakra Therapy’. All Karma
Infusion Facials’, the exact same facial that
retreats reflect Karma’s philosophy about
spa therapists partake in a 12-month
Madonna takes prior to her performances.
embracing all of life’s offerings. These lush
‘Master Program’ that comprises weekly
For a minimum of 48 blissful hours, one’s
retreats include healthy breakfasts, detox
yoga, meditation, anatomy education,
skin looks plumped and hydrated (we
juices, smoothies and yoga at 11am, (no
Chinese acupressure and medicine.
serve ours with complimentary manicure
6am rises thanks) and why not sip on a
Last month they completed Level 2 Reiki
and reflexology). Even Justin Timberlake
martini and nibble Chef’s Raymond Saja’s
At Karma Kandara pleasure is very
canapés while you are treated to organic
especially after a ‘big night’ and after a few
foot rubs, manicures and pedicures.
sessions the body noticeably slims down
Other unique offerings include a Jade
a notch or two. Sunset yoga is held at the
Stone Therapy, where pieces of precious
temple lounge to the backdrop music of
jade are heated and smoothed across the
Café del Mar.
body, Reiki soul cleansing bestowed by a
All Karma spa therapists partake in a 12-month ‘Master Program’ that comprises weekly yoga, meditation, anatomy education, Chinese acupressure and medicine.
Future predictions are that wellness-
real Balinese Reiki master, teenager and
focused spas will only continue to
family-orientated experiences as well as
succeed. Feeling healthy in mind and body
our cliff-hanging Infrared Sauna, a glass
is increasingly high on everyone’s value
walled facility with personalized music
list and this is where spas can deliver.
and nothing but the sea as your point of
Who doesn’t want to wake up feeling
view. The Infrared sauna is considered
rejuvenated - or at least on a fast track
one of the best health modalities today
to well being via a massage curative or
and reportedly detoxifies at a cellular
infrared sauna session? Cathy Chon from
level. Whatever, you emerge rejuvenated,
CatchOn marketing in Hong Kong says BALI&BEYOND
that they are now seeing a consolidation of
crystal steam rooms, Himalayan crystal
on earth, feeling inspired in our workplace
services, wherein treatments are designed
salt scrubs, jade stone massages, gold,
is an important part of staying healthy.
to do double duty and deliver more value
amber and ruby facials and aromatherapy
to the customer. She says: “I am pretty
optimistic about the future. Asia has been
It’s an amazing experience to
As in the words of Rumi: “Let the beauty of what you love be what you do.” ■ Text by Judy Chapman
through some tougher times and we have
conceptualize, create and most
Photography by Richard & Kirsty
remained fairly resilient.”
significantly see tangible results from. One
Ludbrook, courtesy Karma Spa
Karma Spa is the first in a series of
can’t exist without the other. And for our
Judy Chapman is Wellness and Spa
healing spas. Opening May 1st is Karma
therapists, there’s nothing more special
Curator at Karma Spa.
Spa in Goa India (from where this piece
than having folk returning time after time
is written). The theme here is crystals,
for rebalancing. No matter whom we are or
gems and jewels. Imagine amethyst
what we choose to do with our time here
■ Karma Spa, Karma Resorts, (0361) 848-2200, www.karmaresorts.com
CERAMICS: APPRECIATION OF ART Ceramics have been in creation since thousands of years ago. But no “out of date” term applies to this art. The older and rarer it is, the higher the value.
n January, people around Mount
that distinguishes class and level of
several ways to observe its authenticity,
Sindoro in the Temanggung regency
respect. This not only goes for the Chinese
such as the use of thermoluminescence.
of Centra Java were surprised by the
but also applies to Indonesia and Europe.
discovery of ancient items that hailed
This is due to the highly prized aspect
problem faced by collectors. Rudy needed
from the Mataram Hindu Kingdom of
and value of ceramics. And this is true up
20 years to learn about ceramics to avoid
the 7th century. Some of them are
until now. Not many are able to collect
this kind of obstacle. This might be the
ceramics in large quantities.
reason there are not many collectors of its
fragments of ceramics and earthenware from the Tang Dynasty of China. China boasts the oldest culture. They
“I have been fond of ceramics for 30 years now,” said Rodolfo Giusti
Rudy admitted that forgery is a big
kind in Indonesia, as it implies high cost and high risks.
spurred many innovations and built political
(also known as ‘Rudy’). He pointed to
and trade relationships with many overseas
a large ceramic plate approximately 50
In his country of birth, Italy, he learned
kingdoms. This relationship also gave way
centimetres in diameter. It is one of the
that ceramics were beautiful and luxurious
to the spread of Chinese products and
many ceramics that we can find in his
items owned by nobles. Rudy was also
innovations, including ceramics.
office and also one among the 4,000
born in a family who loves and understands
he has in his collection. He got it from a
art. His father, coincidentally, is a silver
In China, ceramics were produced and
Sulawesi noble heir, who received it from
collected by the royals and other important
China as a friendship gift.
Ceramics are expensive and exclusive.
officials around them. Besides for hobby
At large, we are able to observe that it
Ceramics are not a new thing for Rudy.
From the 16th to 19th century, Europeans were crazy about Chinese
and for collection, the Kings also gave
has been carefully crafted through intricate
ceramics. They ordered ceramics for
them away as gifts to friends and kin.
production techniques. It is colourful, not
decoration and dining sets. They even put
only blue and white. That noble might
their family names on them. Although the
have lied about the specimen but there are
Europeans developed their own ceramic
For the rich and celebrities, ceramics enhance esteem. They act as something 32
production, Chinese ceramics still hold higher values. The ceramic’s value can be ascertained from factors such as rarity, age, its difficulty level of production and its size and motifs. But the main factor is rarity. For example, a ceramic from the Yuan Dynasty in general is more valuable because the ceramic production in that period was low due to Yuan’s short period in history. The beauty of ceramics can be seen from its motifs. In the beginning, no motifs were applied but then it further developed. The ceramic motifs followed trends, and varied from one dynasty to the other, even from one ruler to another during the same dynasty. Rudy admitted that he preferred the designs from Wan Li from Ming and Kang Xi from Ching. “I like something that is beautiful and old. That is the reason why I like antiques such as ceramics. For me ceramics is an art appreciation,” said Rudy who is also the chairman of Lotus Enterprises. He loves to hunt for ceramics through auctions, goes in and out of antique shops, and reads many books about ceramics, including spending hours of his time hunting during business travels overseas. Now he decorates his office, house, and all Lotus branches with ceramics. He already has a large trove, yet he continues to hunt for more. From February to April 29, Rudy is exhibiting some of his collection at the Jenggala gallery. You can see the Tang, Ming, Sung, Vietnamese, and some modern ceramics in this exhibition titled “Asian Ceramics throughout the Ages: from Tang to Early Modern”. ■ Text and photos by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati ■ Jenggala; Jl. Uluwatu II Jimbaran
The beauty of ceramics can be seen from their motifs. The ceramic motifs followed trends, and varies from one dynasty to the other, even from one ruler to another during the same dynasty. Rudy admitted that he preferred the designs from Wan Li from Ming and Kang Xi from Ching.
(0361) 703-311, www.jenggala.com BALI&BEYOND
ALLURING AIRPORT… SERVICES, SO-SO?
PHOTO BY NYOMAN ARI GUNADI
In early 2009, the Vice President of the Republic Jusuf Kalla formally announced that the Ngurah Rai airport would undergo expansion this year. This was announced in front of state officials at the international airport’s development meeting.
flyover to the airport entrance as well as
in local news portals that he worried about
implementing modern architecture.
the Visa on Arrival (VoA) queues. They
The big dream is to make a big and
are too long and can go on for hours. We
alluring airport to accommodate the high
can imagine that inconvenience after long
tourist arrivals to Bali. However, an airport
flights. It needs more VoA booths. Bali is
is a gateway. It is the first thing people see
one of Japan’s main holiday destinations
about Bali and the last impression they get
and the Japanese contribute significantly
at the end of their visit. They must have
to Bali’s tourism.
memorable impressions in the start and end. If we compare Ngurah Rai with other
Another problem is immigration services. Once we received a letter from a
airports in Indonesia, Bali has to proud. It
tourist protesting the immigration services’
hysical development and
almost always persists in the big three of
extortion by an official. He claimed that
service upgrades are two
the best airports in Indonesia.
an official urged him to pay more than he
things that should go in
In 2007, the Department of
should. He did not get clear explanation
synergy. Especially in
Transportation placed Ngurah Rai Airport
while the official kept pushing and even
regards to an important
as the best airport of Indonesia based on
threatening. He was discomforted; lost
place the likes of an
auditing results on the airport’s operations.
desire for a decent holiday, and all resulted
Some aspects are flight safety, security
in damaging contra-promotion for Bali and
and public services in the terminals.
Indonesia. Certainly not what we expect.
international airport. In early 2009, the Vice President of the
Republic Jusuf Kalla formally announced
Meanwhile in 2008, Marketing
Some people are just narrow-minded
that the Ngurah Rai airport would undergo
Magazine, a national periodical, announced
when they think about money. They assume
expansion this year. This was announced
the results of the Service Quality Awards.
all tourists are well-heeled and come to
in front of state officials at the international
It was a joint cooperation between the
Bali to spend all their money. The reality is
airport’s development meeting.
magazine and the Customer Centric
that many people come with tight budgets.
Organization (CARRE). It stated that the
Overall, there is no reason to justify extortion.
The development progress plans to go ahead in April and will continue over 2
Ngurah Rai Airport was runner-up for The
years with an approximate budget of 1.2
Best Airport in Indonesia.
There are many things that need to be corrected at Ngurah Rai Airport in both its
trillion rupiah - a huge figure in regards to
This achievement can indeed make
the current global economic crisis. Jusuf
Bali proud, but even so it is still too far
an airport merely undergoing expansion is
Kalla said the funds are from PT Angkasa
to compare Indonesia airports with its
not the only solution.
Pura, a state-owned corporation that
neighbour, Singapore’s Changi Airport.
In the next two years, hopefully, Bali
handles airport management. Another
Many surveys place Changi among the
will have a better and more alluring airport.
source is Bank Mandiri, another state-
best ten airports in the world – in both
It could be the most beautiful airport in
physical and service aspects.
Indonesia. But we have to admit that an
At least there are some important
There are many things at Ngurah Rai
physical and service aspects. The idea of
attractive and beautiful body will be useless
points on the broad plans. Firstly,
that need to be evaluated. From small
if there are no other improvements in
the domestic terminal will undergo
things such as toilet cleanliness and
terms of services, safety, security, comfort,
expansion. Then it will swap position as
inadequate air conditioning in many areas,
cleanliness, etc. Just like a pretty girl, if she
the international terminal. Secondly, there
to the many ticket scalpers, and insufficient
is no-brainer and untidy, not many will be
will be several new improvements to the
information stations, etc. Kojiro Shiojiri,
infrastructure such as an addition of a
Japan’s Ambassador for Indonesia stated
Text by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati
HOLY, FLYING RESIDENTS OF PETULU
At dusk, thousands of herons nest in trees lining the main road of Petulu, a small village north of Ubud. In a not so distant past, a ritual was held here to purify the neighborhood. The prayers were at last answered by the arrival of thousands of white flying creatures the villagers could see as holy and blessed. The villagers then held a ceremony to welcome the new inhabitants in their village...
eing a part of The Ubud district, Petulu is a village famed for its artists, dancers and carvers of stone and wood. The quiet atmosphere
of this village offers a traditional glimpse of Bali within one of the most scenic settings on the island, where one could see the modesty of the villagers as they skillfully make palm-leaf trays on which to lay out their offerings in these pristine natural surroundings. Petulu is all about its villagers and residents, especially those BALI&BEYOND
They may only be birds, but the herons have been occupying the village of Petulu and living harmoniously sideby-side with their human neighbors for more than forty years now.
returning home from a day’s labor, arriving
and living harmoniously side by side with
above from the sky and roosting on their
their human neighbors for more than forty
comfortable withy beds to rest.
It was on the 25th October in 1965
are the reincarnation of the thousands
big ceremony called Ngusa Benining, a
of Balinese who were slaughtered in
ritual to purify their neighborhood from
a massacre during the Indonesian
all evil. Later that same year, on the 7th
Communist Party regime in the 60s,
of November, the many prayers calling
when an anti-communist witch-hunt
out for peace were at last answered by
swept over the nation. A statement from
the arrival of thousands of white herons,
I Wayan Kecug, a native of Petulu village,
flying creatures the villagers could see as
confirmed the myth that these ‘souls of the
holy and blessed. Excitement was high as
slaughtered’ appeared in the village exactly
these birds began disembarking from the
one week after an attempted communist
sky; and as respectful and grateful as they
coup led to failure on 30 September
always are, the villagers held Pemagpag, a
1965. “No herons had ever been seen in
ceremony to welcome the new inhabitants
Petulu back then,” Mr. Kecug said, adding
in their village.
that the birds have been coming every
They may only be birds, but the herons have been occupying the village of Petulu 38
There is also a belief that these herons
when the whole village of Petulu held a
afternoon since. Another indication suggesting that the
herons are holy is the spot where these
of the herons that from a distant gradually
Petulu are at their fullest liberty wandering
birds have chosen to make their nests.
grow bigger as they are approaching and
around the village area with no fear of
The herons only occupy the trees by the
flying low before finally hopping onto their
being shot, disturbed or anything: walking
roadsides stretching from the temples
nests. As the sun sets, the trees of Petulu
down the road, crossing and flying very
Desa Dan Puseh in the north to Agung
change make-up into white as the heron’s
low come easily to these birds. Watching
Basukih in the south – an approximate
the villagers sharing the road with the
400-meter long stretch. Mr. Kecug
Yet, another interesting approach from
herons, even walking side by side at times,
further explained that ever since their first
which to observe the herons are by the
gives the kind of vision that no words or
appearance in the village, these herons
roadsides – the viewpoints from where one
pictures could flawlessly describe. It’s
have never built a nest in any area behind
can see how these herons are very much
like a world told in fantastical tales or
the villagers’ home, for it is believed that
like the human residents of the village.
any adventurous dreams, where humans
the back part of a house is meant for
Unlike the typical members of the heron
are not the only talking and walking
something not clean – such as toilets.
genus that tend to congregate, the ones
‘animals’. However, you might need to
in Petulu are very individual. On the road,
get a safe spot or walk quickly under the
unforgettable afternoon for anyone visiting
Surely a trip to Petulu will result in an
you can always expect to see a village
trees if the herons are already roosting,
the area, especially when the herons are
woman carrying banana leaves on her
for the copious droppings in the road will
seen flocking to the village to roost there.
head walking with bare feet from the fields;
indicate that it’s not wise to hang around
Standing on the rim of the rice fields with
a man with a sickle in one hand and weeds
your head looking straight up at the sky
in another; and a heron gracefully walking
provides a magical vision – the blue sky
with a twig in its bill.
above turns crimson with little white dots 40
Just like their fellow humans, herons of
Text by Nambe Herpo Photographs by Johannes P. Christo
A GRAND FEAST... FOR THE DEAD Torajan funerals have always been very interesting, if not exotic. So is its culture. A people who are believed to have come from the north (some believe from Cambodia), they were very isolated and scholars classified them as the â€˜proto malayâ€™, the first wave of tribes to arrive and inhabit the Indonesian archipelago and some of the other Southeast Asian countries.
luk To Dolo is the traditional religion of the Toraja people. To Dolo means the rituals of the ancestors. It is a mix of ancestral cult, myth and
ritual. At the heart of the faith is life and death. Despite prohibitions from the Church to some of the life-world ritual practices, a number of them still exist today. This includes rituals for birth, marriage, health, new house, the community and harvest. These rituals are classified as Rambu Tuka, the Rising Sun or Smoke Ascending rituals. However, Rambu Solo, the Setting Sun or the Smoke Descending ritual with its funeral ceremony is the most prominent. The funeral ceremony, Rambu Solo, is one of the underlying motives for the Torajans to make (as much) money during their lifetime. Traditionally they believed
that they will live on in the afterworld as
and hundreds of water buffalos and
progress, take a break when necessary,
they do on earth. And by a lavish death
countless pigs are slaughtered for the
and of course cook and sleep.
festival the deceased will reach Puya, ‘the
tribute and will be consumed by all involved
land of souls’.
in the process.
Moreover, this people who live in the
In this gigantic ritual, the highest level
Beautiful young girls dressed in colorful costumes welcome the guests and visitors. Principal guests who only stay for a couple
mountainous area of Sulawesi (it is said that
of Rambu Solo is performed twice (in Aluk
the name of Toraja was derived from the
To Dolo). The first one called Aluk Pia is
compartments. A typical high-level Rambu
main ethnic group of the island – the Bugis
usually held in the vicinity of a traditional
Solo costs more than USD $200,000. The
– word ‘toriaja’, which means the mountain
family house or tongkonan, immediately
buffalos slaughtered alone cost around ten
people) believe that the souls of the
after the death. The second one, the Rante
million rupiah (USD $1,000) each.
sacrificed animals will follow their masters
ceremony, is held in the rante, an open
to heaven. But now as most Torajans have
ground field specifically prepared for the
needed for the ceremony, it is not
embraced Christianity, it indicates how
uncommon that the dead body has to
much respect they pay to the deceased
of hours will be directed to convenient
In order to accumulate the funds
In the Rante ceremony the host
reside in the tongkonan for a year or even
and the bereft family. Especially when the
constructs lantang encircling the rante.
more (preserved by some modern method
family is highly regarded in the community,
These are simple two-story bamboo
like formaldehyde injections instead of
as some animals are donated by the invited
pavilions. As invited guests and visitors with
embalming herbs). For the Torajans, the
guests and will also have to be ‘repaid’
their relatives reach into the thousands,
dead are not literally dead at this stage;
later when the current bereft family is
and the fact that they come from all over
she/he is regarded as a ‘sick one’ or to
invited to join their ceremony.
the archipelago to attend this complete
makula. Thus, food is cooked and offered
procession that lasts a whole week or
to the deceased as if he/she were still
their great wealth on this occasion. All
It is not surprising that they will display
three days at a minimum, they will use the
alive until the second tomate or funeral is
resources are gathered, family members
lantang as their shelter. From here they
held. After the funds are raised, the bigger
and relatives are gathered and mobilized,
can watch and monitor the procession in
second ceremony is performed, often with BALI&BEYOND
astounding magnitude. A complete funeral procession could last a whole year! Then only after this
scores of men and women in black suits
they’re exhausted, on and on for hundreds
start to appear. They then enter the rante.
of meters. Obviously it isn’t an easy task
At the very front are young men holding
and a spectacular procession in itself. In
second funeral rite she/he enters the final
a picture of the deceased, followed by
half an hour they manage to bring the coffin
stage where the demise really happens
middle-aged women carrying a long strip of
to the lakkian – a tower of about 30 meters
(all of these are original beliefs from Aluk
red colored cloth above their head, about
high in the center of the rante to store the
To Dolo. Now it has fused into the adat or
50 meters long. These are members of the
body during the Rambu Solo ceremony.
local customs, but since most of Torajans
bereft family. The tip of the cloth is attached
have embraced Christianity, not all customs
to the coffin, usually made of sandalwood.
tempo. This mourning hymn is actually
are practiced in Rambu Solo.
Interestingly, this coffin is a mini replica of
a story about the deceased along with
the tongkonan. Maybe it is reminiscence of
some kind of historical record on his/her
A LIVELY FUNERAL
the house where she lived throughout her
good morals and merit. Not every Torajan
The deceased body arrives and the
life. About 50 strong men are responsible
understands the lyrics - it uses an ancient
ceremony starts. The sounds of a stirring
for bearing the heavy coffin. These young
language. Ma’badong is performed
hymn are heard faintly. In the distance
men have to swap it on the fly whenever
exclusively for noblemen. The Rambu Solo
Then the Ma’badong starts in slow
of ordinary people won’t have Ma’badong. This procession is often continued with
ladder then placed in the same chamber where their other family members are.
other rituals. One that always attracts the
Every chamber (called liang) has its own
most crowds is the buffalo fight.
entrance, secured with some kind of key
The Ma’badong, a mourning hymn about the deceased along with records on his/her good morals and merit, starts in slow tempo. Not every Torajan understands the lyrics as it uses an ancient language. Ma’badong is exclusively for noblemen.
to prevent theft; many valuable things are
UNUSUAL FINAL RESTING PLACE After six nights and seven days of elaborate
buried along with the body. Then the tautau is placed in front of the chamber. This ‘little person’ is the icon of the
ceremony comes the final stage: bearing
deceased, dressed in clothing, etc,
the coffin to the burial grounds. The Torajan
complete. This wooden effigy is thought
are well-known for their burial methods.
to have the soul of the deceased. Every
The cliff or big boulders are the substitute
resident of the tomb has their own tau-tau.
for the graveyard. The body used to be
So when you look up and see wooden
buried high on the cliff. The deceased
effigies high in the face of the cliff, there
is brought up to the cliff via a wooden
must be a tomb there. BALI&BEYOND
RANTEPAO PALOPO MAKALE
TANA TORAJA MT. RANTEKOMBALA
S T R A I T S
SOUTH SULAWESI PINRANG
BARRU WATAN SOPENG
M A K A S S A R
BANTAENG BULUKUMBA JENEPONTO SELAYAR ISLAND BENTENG BARANGBARANG
F L O R E S
S E A
The Torajan funeral has always been very interesting, if not exotic. And so is its
TANAH JAMPEA ISLAND
culture. This people who are believed to
have come from the north (some believe from Cambodia) were very isolated and
BONERATE KALOATOA ISLAND
scholars classified them as the ‘protomalay’, the first wave of tribes to arrive and inhabit the Indonesian archipelago and
Since most Torajans have become
tooth will receive different treatment. Since
some other Southeast Asian countries.
Christians and due to the lack of space
they are too young to ride the buffalo in
(and the cliffs and boulders themselves),
the afterlife journey, they are buried in liang
so gladly some of the sites have been
a standalone concrete chamber now
pia; a tree. A hole is carved in the trunk of
proposed to the UNESCO to be classified
serves as the tomb. Sometimes they look
a tarra tree and then the baby is placed in
as ‘World Cultural Heritage’ sites, in
like small buildings, scattered all over the
a standing position. The hole is covered
consecutive nominations. Hopefully
Tana Toraja. Yet Torajans will use the cliff
by palm matting. The tree will continue to
the status will be granted soon and the
or boulder when their family still has the
grow until the baby reaches sixteen years
Indonesian government will also pay more
space. You’re lucky if you can see this
old. A ceremony then will be held and the
serious attention to its preservation. ■
procession (called Ma’Palao).
baby’s spirit will leave the tree for puya,
Text and photos by Fadil Aziz
‘land of souls’.
Meanwhile, a baby who has grown a 46
It deserves protection and conservation,
A “LUSH-CIOUS” TREAT Cali Deli calls itself a place for the best Vietnamese sandwiches and coffee in the Jakarta’s Menteng town area - a fusion of Southern California and Vietnamese taste.
heltered by its
road that is famous for its array of shops
inside. The rouge-colored room was
abundance of lush and
selling antique and vintage stuff as well as
adorned with a number of plates, paintings
leafy trees and plants, it
and posters on the wall. A big flat screen
wouldn’t be a surprise
A warm homey feel instantly greeted
TV was installed at one side of the wall
if you could miss Cali
me when I walked into the terrace. Being
near the kitchen. I wondered if some of
Deli when you drive
an al-fresco dining lover, the temptation to
the framed Tintin comic posters blended
along Jalan Surabaya to look for the
sit outside was certainly there. I smiled at
suitably with the interior of the room, but I
place. Located in Jakarta’s prestigious
a corner with empty cozy sofas. Yet, the
soon forgot about it as my hunger cried for
Menteng area, it is nestled in a pretty
almost unbearable heat of the afternoon
thick and shady garden. Across the road
made me forget that idea and instead,
from the restaurant is the side of the
I entered the cool air-conditioned room
Cali Deli calls itself a place for the best Vietnamese sandwiches and coffee in
The rouge-colored room was adorned with a number of plates, paintings and posters on the wall. A big flat screen TV was installed at one side of the wall near the kitchen. BALI&BEYOND
The Combo mixes chicken ham and the so-called “pate” (chicken liver), into a delightful sandwich. Boston Clam Chowder is placed in a petite halfopened bread bowl. Cali Deli is also a place for Vietnamese coffee such as the Coffee Toffee.
“Southern California, okay. So that answered the question that spontaneously popped out in my mind when I read the name for the first time.”
town. It’s originally from a family recipe
The Combo (Rp 43,000++) soon
with a fusion of Southern California and
came to give me another pleasure. Mixing
Vietnamese taste. Southern California,
chicken ham and the so-called “pate”
okay. So that answered the question that
(chicken liver), it was a delightful sandwich
spontaneously popped out in my mind
as well. Was it because the taste of
when I read the name for the first time.
chicken dominated too much that I almost
So what would be a perfect lunch for one
couldn’t “feel” the chicken liver part there?
hot scorching Saturday lunch? All those
mouth-watering food shots on the menu
But for sure, the bread of the
didn’t help me to make a quick decision. It
sandwiches is something that I don’t easily
took me even longer as I felt like I wanted
find at other places. Of an average size,
to try all of them. Yes, a classic problem
the bread is made by the place itself. From
when you choose a meal. But I finally
the first bite, you can already feel that it’s
asked the staff to make me the BBQ
nice and fresh, with crispy parts here and
Chicken and the Combo. As delicious as it
there. Being an herbivore, I also enjoyed
looked in the picture, the BBQ Chicken (Rp
the thick layers of generous vegetables
33,000++) wasn’t a disappointment at all.
filling up the bread.
The chicken was soft, succulent and well-
But actually if you talk about the
grilled with a little bit of sweetness, which
signature sandwich at Cali Deli, then
I don’t mind. The first bite was quickly
you’re talking about the Lemon Grass
washed down by a glass of fresh Mandarin
Chicken (Rp 33,000++) which is mostly
Squeeze, a refreshing mix of Sunkist and
what people are curious about. The Lemon
Sprite that went well with the food.
Grass Chicken itself is what is usually BALI&BEYOND
Of an average size, the bread is made by the place itself. From the first bite, you can already feel that it’s nice and fresh, with crispy parts here and there. Mandarin Squeeze, a refreshing mix of Sunkist and Sprite goes well with the food.
found on the menu of most Vietnamese
one is the specialty of the house, blending
restaurants. As for the soup, the menu
Vietnamese coffee, milk and mocha
lounging at a lush shady place while
offers a selection of rich and creamy
caramel with whipped cream on top. Both
enjoying some fresh tasty bread and
Mushroom Soup or Boston Clam Chowder
are priced at thirty thousand rups plus.
sandwiches though, Cali Deli can be a nice
(Rp 36,000++) placed in a petite half-
Despite the good taste, the price comes as
opened bread bowl. For a colder drink,
a concern though. As admitted by Retha,
Text and photos by Kathy Petite
Summer Squeeze or Mandarin Freeze
a 26-year-old food lover that has visited
can come as a kick of refreshment to
the deli more than once, “I fancy this place.
your throat. But of course, being known
It’s green, shady and filled with heaps of
as a place for Vietnamese coffee, you
plants. The sandwiches are nice but I find
might not want to miss drinks such as
some of the dishes and the drinks a bit
& Coffee, Jl. Surabaya 22, Menteng,
Coffee Toffee or the Big Kid. The latter
Central Jakarta, (021) 390-0145/50
Well, for friends or families who like
■ Cali Deli - Hot Vietnamese Sandwich
DINE IN ROMANCE
Novotel Yogyakarta offers romantic dining experiences at its most romantic spots; the top floor with the amazing view of Yogyakarta, a secluded corner of the poolside cooled by the slow breeze of air, or in the privacy of guest rooms. A 4-course Asian or European complete set menu from appetizers to dessert with private butler service is only Rp 199,000 nett per person. A long wine selection from Baccus Wineshop offers a 20% saving. Hotel Novotel Yogyakarta, Jl. Jend. Sudirman No. 89, Yogyakarta, (0274) 580-930
FOR THE OCEANS Indonesia will host the World Ocean Conference 2009 to grow commitment for sustainable management of marine resources. Problems such as the impact of climate change on oceans and the degradation of land and marine resources have seriously affected global development. Efforts to reverse this trend are urgently required, thus will be discussed throughout this conference that will take place from May 11-15 in Manado, Sulawesi. This ministerial level meeting of 121 countries is to produce a Manado Ocean Declaration. www.woc2009.org
AN ELECTED GIG A gig by 101.4 Trax FM titled Terusik Traxkustik The Elected One, was held at Score Jakarta, Cilandak Town Square on Sunday, February 22, crowded by pink-clad Trax listeners. The best pink-dressed won ‘the best gadgets’. The gig featured national Trax ‘elected’ all-out and live performing musicians such as Eqoutez (Jazz), Ello and Rio Febrian (Indonesian Pop). The show was put to a close with romantic tunes performed by Rio Febrian, the likes of R. Kelly’s “I Believe I Can Fly”. Trax FM Group, Lantai 8 Gedung Sarinah Thamrin Jl. M.H. Thamrin No 11, Central Jakarta (021) 3144-760 ext 383
Aston International recently signed a MOU with PT. Paramount Land Development for the management of the Aston Paramount Hotel that will be located in Serpong, Tangerang. The 3 Star Hotel is scheduled to open in late 2010. The hotel will consist of 135 rooms in various configurations, and have a destination restaurant and swimming pool. The signing ceremony took place at the Gading Royal Golf Paramount Serpong and was attended by Mr. Charles Brookfield (President & CEO Aston International) who gave the opening address, Mr. John M. Flood (Sr. Vice President Aston International), Mr. Heru Purwono (Corp Financial Controller Aston International), Mr. Tanto Kurniawan (President Director of PT. Paramount Land Development) and Mr. Ervan Adi Nugroho (Director of PT. Paramount Land Development). Aston International Hotels, Resorts and Residences, Wisma Staco Level 3, Room 100, Jl. Casablanca Kav. 18, Jakarta, (021) 831-8800, www.aston-international.com
CAST VOTES COURTESY IMAGE
The 2009/2010 edition of The Miele Guide’s selection and judging of Asia’s finest restaurants is underway. Information in the next edition of The Miele Guide will be compiled through four rounds of judging and a ranking of Asia’s Top 20 restaurants will be published. The first round of selection, which is now closed, gathered a shortlist of restaurants generated by Asia’s top food writers and restaurant critics. The second round invites the public to cast their votes online, lasting till May 24. The upcoming guide will extend its evaluation to include Nepal and Mongolia. www.mieleguide.com
ROOM, COOK, DINE, SURF
SUMATRA, TO SUMBAWA The Rip Curl GromSearch Series 2009 continued to Padang, Sumatra, after successfully kicking off in Lombok in February. The coconut groved and green forest backdropped Air Manis beach with its sand bottomed beach breaks was the ideal place for the Gromsearch, which saw 50 local groms participating, from the Air Manis, Purus, Parkit, Pariaman areas and as far away as from the Mentawai islands. The average 2 to 3 foot waves were plenty for the competing groms, who all rode lots of waves during their 15 minute heats. In the Under 14 division, Afinas gained 15.7 points that got him first place. Local Air Manis surfer Charly Andrian defeated Deri Palar from Purus by 0.4 points in the Under 16 division. Under 16 winners also got their ‘Ticket to Bali’ for the Rip Curl GromSearch Finals in October. The series goes on to Sumbawa this month on April 5. www.ripcurl.com; www.isctour.com 56
Melia Purosani Yogyakarta renews its grand room this month, unveiling the new Grand Room Balcony with Private Barbeque. Guests can choose one of two special menus, the Yakiniku or Steamboat, served by the chef in the comfort and privacy of the guests’ own room balcony. Another new feature is the hotel’s Family Room, which connects with a living room that can also function as a dining room. It is equipped with furnishings that help expand its function as a kitchen. Melia Purosani has also setup wireless broadband connections in guest rooms, meeting facilities, and throughout other public areas. Melia Purosani Yogyakarta, (0274) 589-521 www.meliajogja.com
ANTICIPATION, AWARENESS Major national cellular telecommunications operator Telkomsel recently launched its flood awareness program in four flood prone areas in Jakarta. Differing from other flooding awareness programs, this latest one emphasizes community involvement in implementing community based risk management where the public are trained to actively get involved in flood mitigation and control. The program is a joint social program between Telkomsel and partner NetApp Indonesia. www.telkomsel.com
FREEDOM & BEAUTY
An Easter Sunday Celebration will be held at the Melia Bali Villas & Spa Resort on Saturday, April 11 at the resort’s poolside. The resort management invites guests to bring their family and friends to celebrate Easter in the lush palm gardens. Master Chef Christian will be preparing a scrumptious buffet dinner comprised of international cuisine from around the globe and delectable delights from France. Guests may indulge in various games and be entertained by colorful dance performances, and enjoy it all with a buffet dinner priced at just 285,000++ per person. The Easter Sunday Celebration will be held from 7-11 pm. Along with the dinner, all Melia Bali Villas & Spa Resort guests will also receive an Easter gift during the celebration. Melia Bali Villas & Spa Resort, Nusa Dua, (0361) 771-510, www.meliabali.com.
42 Balinese sculptors from the Bali Indonesia Sculptor Association (B.I.A.S.A.) and the Kamandalu Resort & Spa present a collaborative exhibition with the theme of “Freedom & Beauty”. The best pieces of the 42 sculptors from three generations, will be on display at the resort’s Bale Seni through April 15. Freedom & Beauty showcases the results of unlimited creativity, depicting the artists’ motivation in illustrating their creative ideas in appreciation of the rich art and culture. The beauty of the displayed sculptures is a tribute to the holy month of Bali, with the recent Galungan, Kuningan and Nyepi holy days. This actual application of Tri Hita Karana heartens the artists in their relations with humans, nature and God, resulting in a harmonic relationship between the resort and the sculptors. Kamandalu Resort and Spa, Jalan Tegallalang, Banjar Nagi, Ubud, (0361) 975-825; www.kamandaluresort.com.
Ganesha Gallery presents an exhibition of art by artist Victoria Renaux through April 13. A nomad by nature with one foot in the West and another in the East, Victoria Renaux eventually landed on the island of Bali. After two years in the south of the island, she traveled to the far less developed north where she introduced the young inhabitants of an orphanage in Singaraja to art, not by teaching them to paint in any particular style but by urging them to explore their own imaginations. The results were remarkable, and although the budding young artists were indirectly influenced by their guide’s art, it was also highly individual. Victoria claims that her silk paintings are the direct extension of her meditation practice and as a result she refused to sign them, feeling they belong to a far greater collective consciousness. The human face and body swirling in vivid colors dominate her fluid and surrealistic images. On some she has written rune-like imaginary inscriptions. Other worldly creations, they are the spontaneous inner visions of an autodidact. They are also expressions of selfless compassion, mirrored in the mutual love that binds her to the seventeen young artists; Ardana, Hendra, Indra, Gunarta, Juli, Maha, Mertadana, Mustika, Restiada, Sapada, Sadia, Super, Yuda, Wahyu, Widana, Wikrana and Umbu. Ganesha Gallery, Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay, (0361) 701-010 www.fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay
MEANWHILE... THIS MONTH
PHOTO BY NYOMAN ARI GUNADI
April 1 World Bank Day
FOOD, HOTEL, RETAIL...
April 1 April Fool’s Day The day is marked by the playing of hoaxes and other practical jokes of varying sophistication on friends, family members, enemies, and neighbors, or sending them on fool’s errands, the aim of which is to embarrass the gullible. Traditionally, in some countries the jokes only last until noon: someone who plays a trick after noon is called an “April Fool”. Elsewhere, such as in Ireland, France, and the USA, the jokes last all day. April 2 World Autism Awareness Day Recognized by the UN
Food & Hotel Indonesia will be held from April 15-18 at the Jakarta International Expo in Kemayoran, Jakarta. Now in its 10th showing, Food & Hotel Indonesia 2009 is set to be one of the biggest on record. A total of 767 companies from 34 countries will showcase a range of products and services for the food and drink, catering equipment, hotel and hospitality sectors. The Salon Culinaire will see the national selection for the Asian Pastry Cup in addition to 18 categories of culinary tests. In addition, the 3rd Indonesian Barista Competition 2009 will attract over 30 of Indonesia’s top baristas to face off in the all new Indonesian Barista Competition. www.jiexpo.com, www.pamerindo.com
Balinale 2009 International Film Festival and Green School Bali presents a special event film screening and dialogue featuring the award winning documentary film FLOW - For the Love of Water. The evening has filmmaker Steven Starr making a special guest appearance in Bali for the event on April 1 from 6pm - 10.30pm, along with cocktails, canapés and a light supper at the Water Garden, ARMA Museum & Resort Ubud. For further information, contact Sherri at 081-236-404-90. FLOW is director Irena Salina’s award-winning documentary investigation into what experts label the most important political and environmental issue of the 21st Century - The World Water Crisis. www.armamuseum.com, www.flowthefilm.com 60
April 22 Earth Day One of two observances both held annually during spring in the northern hemisphere, and autumn in the southern hemisphere. These are intended to inspire awareness of and appreciation for the environment. The United Nations celebrates an Earth Day each year on the March equinox, a tradition which was founded by peace activist John McConnell in 1969. A second Earth Day, which was founded by U.S. Senator Gaylord Nelson as an environmental teachin in 1970, is celebrated in many countries each year on April 22.
International Children’s Book Day Since 1967, on or around Hans Christian Andersen’s birthday of April 2, authors from around the world have gathered to call attention to children’s books. The event is sponsored by IBBY, the International Board on Books for Young People, a non-profit organization which represents an international network of people from all over the world who are committed to bringing books and children together.
April 23 Administrative Professionals Day (formerly known as Secretary’s Day) Observed on Wednesday in the last full week of April Unofficial secular holiday
April 4 International Day for Mine Awareness and Assistance in Mine Action Recognized by the UN
Asia-Africa Solidarity Day
April 5 Ching Bing Chinese Observance, a Chinese day for visiting ancestral graves and for family prayer.
Anzac Day National public holiday in Australia and New Zealand, commemorated by both countries on 25 April each year to honor members of the Australian and New Zealand army corps (Anzac) who fought at Gallipoli in Turkey during World War I. Anzac Day is also observed in the Cook islands, Niue, Samoa and Tonga.
April 6 Indonesian Fishermen’s Day
FOR THE LOVE OF WATER
World Creativity and Innovation Day - Celebrations begin April 15th - Leonardo Da Vinci’s birthday
April 7 World Health Day Recognized by the World Health Organization (WHO) International Day of Reflection on the Genocide in Rwanda Recognized by the UN April 9 National Aviation Day April 12 Easter (Western Christianity) April 18 Asian-African Conference commemoration, April 18-24, 1955, in Bandung Commemorated Nationally April 19 Easter (Eastern Christianity) April 21 Kartini Day Declared by President Sukarno in 1964, honoring the birth date of national heroine Raden Adjeng Kartini (April 21, 1879–September 17, 1904)
World Book and Copyright Day (UNESCO) Recognized by the United Nations April 24 National Transport Day Commemorated Nationally
April 25 World Malaria Day Recognized by the WHO
April 26 World Intellectual Property Day Established by WIPO in 2001 April 27 Indonesian Correctional Institution Day April 28 International Workers’ Memorial Day International Day of Remembrance of the Victims of Slavery and the Transatlantic Slave Trade International observance recognized by UN April 29 World Dance Day World Dance Day Promoted by the International Dance Council (CID), UNESCO Recognized by the United Nations April 30 World Veterinary Day Sponsored by the World Veterinary Association
GADGET ’N GEAR
GET AROUND ‘N UNDER! This time its the latest stuff out in the market for getting around and splashing around. Though you may not find all of them in stores around Bali or the archipelago yet, check and seek them out!
SPLIT FORCE Mares applies its worldclass fin R&D to split fin technology. The Raptor fins feature “Nature’s Wing Technology”, a Whale Tail design for great power transmission, and ABS Plus buckles. Raptor uses an advanced design and combination of materials to create the highest performance split fin in its class. The Raptor’s design including the Whale Tail foot pocket for maximum energy transfer, so delivers maximum thrust and efficiency in the split fin category. www.mares.com
SHOOT FREELY The new Liquid Image Underwater Digital Camera Mask is a unique two-in-one mask and camera solution that allows you to take handsfree photographs and video underwater. Suitable for use in the pool or the sea, the camera mask could ensure you never miss that magical underwater moment. Taking photographs or video is so simple; you line up your shot using the crosshair marks on the mask and push the capture button. The camera mode is indicated by LED lights within the viewing area of the mask. The camera has 16 MB SD RAM of internal memory but if you need more room for images and video, the Micro SD Card slot will allow you to upgrade the memory when required. The supplied software will allow you to manipulate your images and video and a USB cable is also supplied so you can then share them with family and friends. It has an LCD display and is powered by 2 AAA alkaline 1.5V batteries. www.liquidimageco.com
FIND YOUR WAY There are a variety of maps available for visitors to Bali, yet the most detailed of these is available in Periplus and major bookstores, called the Periplus Bali Street Atlas. The Periplus Bali Street Atlas breaks down the island by scaled maps; administrative zones into kabupatan (district), kecamatan (municipality), kelurahan (village area) and banjar (village). It also gives a topographical view of the island, enabling one to see the physical features. The Revised Second Edition now features larger maps and more details for central areas. ISBN: 978-0-7946-0421-9 Illustrations: 62 color maps, with building index, street index and places index. 160 pages, paperback. PT. Javabooks Indonesia / Periplus Bookindo, (021) 4682-1088 ext.234 62
TO THE MAX The Suunto Cobra3 is engineered for avid divers, featuring Suunto’s all-new electronic 3D compass and an easy-to-read matrix display with simplified four-button operation. The Cobra3’s new electronic 3D compass offers divers the unique ability to tilt the compass up to 45 degrees in any direction without impairing the ability to read figures clearly and accurately. With two-gas switching Nitrox, Air, and Gauge modes, this air-integrated computer delivers everything you need to maximize bottom time and make the most of every dive. Going beyond the numbers, the Suunto Cobra3 graphs your dive profile with an informative matrix display and its built-in dive simulator allows you to test potential dives without even getting your fins wet. www.suunto.com
HOTELHIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHT: The Mentari Sanur Hotel is tucked away down a small side street just off Jalan Hangtuah at the northern end off Sanur, Bali’s most enchanted village. Shaded by frangipani trees, this two-storey 28 rooms hotel offers the ideal combination of modern facilities and a charming Balinese atmosphere with family style hospitality and service. FACILITIES: A large luxury private swimming pool is the right place for you to pamper your self and relax in a privacy atmosphere under a warm tropical sun. Tunjung Restaurant offers a combination of continental and traditional Balinese dining, cozy lounge is the area where you can sit down, relax, and bar will serves you varieties of drinks. Free exclusive broadband internet access. LOCATION: Located in a tranquil coastal village of Sanur make the Mentari Sanur Hotel is situated in an ideal location with immediate access to the main highway and just minutes from many great tourist activities and attraction, 25 minutes drive to the Ngurah Rai International Airport, 20 minutes drive to Kuta Beach, 5 minutes drive to the Sanur shopping area, 10 minutes drive to Denpasar and 30 minutes to Ubud. CONTACT: Jl. Hangtuah III No.3, Sanur, Telp: (0361) 283286; Fax.(0361)283017 Email: email@example.com; Website: www.mentarisanur.com
HIGHLIGHTS: The Maxi Hotel & Spa is situated in the heart of Bali’s shopping and nightlife district. Centrally located, the property offers an ideal base for visitors wishing to explore Bali while keeping all the island’s best shops, bars, restaurants and beaches within easy walking distance. FACILITIES: Hotel facilities and services include restaurant, bar, meeting room, massage and spa, room service, swimming pool with Jacuzzi, children’s pool, laundry and dry cleaning service, airport pickup and transfer, snack bar, tour desk, doctor on call, free car park, baby sitter upon request, broadband internet connection, major credit cards accepted, individually controlled air-conditioning, local and IDD telephone, satellite TV, daily mineral water, private bathroom with bathtub and shower, mini bar, personal electronic safe deposit, tea & coffee maker. The balcony overlooking the swimming pool and landscaped tropical garden offers a private area for relaxing. LOCATION: The hotel is less than 15 minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport; 20 minutes drive to Denpasar, 30 minutes from Sanur, Nusa Dua and within 45 minutes drive to the artistic centre of Ubud and about 350 meters from Bali’s famous Kuta Beach. CONTACTS: Jl. Legian 83A, Legian, Tel: (0361) 754-082, Fax. (0361) 750-792 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org; Website: www.maxi-hotel.com
HIGHLIGHTS: Asia’s first Hard Rock Hotel, covering a prime three hectares site at the heart of Bali’s entertainment and shopping district. This is the ultimate theme vacation resort with Hard Rock’s signature of limitless energy, unparalleled creativity and quality service - the perfect place to Rest, Relax & Rock! FACILITIES: Hard Rock Hotel features 418 tribute rooms and luxury suites, alongside six cutting edge food and beverage outlets. A paradise for couples, families and singles. LOCATION: Situated at Bali’s famous shopping and entertainment district, Kuta, just 10 minutes drive from Bali airport, you’ll find that the Hard Rock Hotel offers more than just comfortable accommodation, it also blends tropical majesty with today’s modern luxury. CONTACTS: Jl. Pantai, Banjar Pandai Mas, Kuta. Tel: (0361) 761-869 E-mail: email@example.com; Website: www.hardrockhotels.net
HIGHLIGHTS: J Boutique Hotel is an ideal place for business, stay and recreation. It offers an elegant property and modern comfort facilities combined with a high standard of service. FACILITIES: 88 guest rooms comprise of business, executive, business deluxe and J suite room, each featuring individually airconditioning, IDD telephone, satellite television, shower, mini bar, coffee/tea maker, hair dryer, 24-hour room service, doctor on call, airport pickup and transfer service, same day laundry and dry cleaning, safety box, mail service, free WiFi internet access, major credit cards accepted. And choices of facilities for pleasant stay such as Bellagio Restaurant, J Cuvee Wine Shop & Lounge, VIP room, Jatra Tour & Travel, meeting rooms, spa and aromatherapy, swimming pool with Jacuzzi, shop and gallery. LOCATION: Strategically located on Jalan Kartika Plaza, Kuta, and only a 5-minute drive from Ngurah Rai International Airport, with the Discovery Shopping Mall just a walking distance away. CONTACTS: Jl. Kartika Plaza no. 20, Kuta, Tel: (0361) 761-888, Fax: (0361) 755-352/753-529 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org; Website: www.jboutiquehotel.com
CLOSER TIES An MoU (Memorandum of Understanding) was signed by the Indonesian Minister of Culture and Tourism Jero Wacik and Him Chhem, the Cambodian Minister of Arts and Culture on February 26, a commitment by both countries to cooperate on cultural issues especially world cultural heritage. The relationship between both countries dates back for centuries. www.budpar.go.id
DIAMONDS, JAZZ AND PEARLS The St. Regis Bali Resort celebrated its grand opening on February 28 with an exclusive performance by international artist and top U.K. jazz performer Jamie Cullum. The evening celebration had over 200 distinguished guests from the government, business community and socialites attending the red carpet event. Representatives of Starwood Hotels & Resorts and the owning company, PRBI- Pacific Resort Buana Indonesia, officially opened the resort with a ribbon cutting ceremony. The St. Regis Bali Resort, (0361) 8478-111
PEACE ‘N HEALTH The Bali–India Foundation held an International Yoga Festival in March, centered at the Bajra Sandhi monument in Denpasar and Ubud, Kintamani, and Klungkung. This first –ever yoga festival in Indonesia was themed ‘Yoga for Peace and Health’. Dr. Somvir, director of the festival, said there were six countries and 150 Yoga teachers joining the festival. The public was welcome to join in the festival seminars, Yoga exercises, book and painting exhibitions, workshops and discussions. The opening ceremony presented speakers such as Prof. Salman Harun of the Indonesian Council of Islamic Scholars (MUI), stating that Yoga is not forbidden in Islam, clarifying recent issues. Bali–India Foundation, (0361) 224-299
SIGNALED TO NOISE Jenggala presented a jazz adventure by the Joe Rosenberg Quartet that was held on Friday, March 6 at the Warung Keramik. Special Indian music performances by the Tabla-Sitar duo, Steve Bolton and Nigel Bullough started the adventurous evening. The event hinted at a shift in the previous function of the gallery space. Jenggala, Jl. Uluwatu II, Jimbaran, (0361) 703-311; www.jenggala-bali.com
TRIATHLON THIRD’S TRIALS... The MRA Bali International Triathlon returns to Jimbaran Bay where it has become a regular fixture on the international sporting calendar. The only open annual triathlon event ever held in Bali, a recent press conference provided the latest information on the 3rd Annual MRA Bali International Triathlon, which is to be held on Sunday, June 28. As a special guest at the press conference, Mr. Richard Sam Bera, Indonesian competitive swimming champion and editor-in-chief of Indonesian FHM & Men’s Fitness magazines, talked on the fast-growing sport of Triathlons in Indonesia and the participation of the MRA Group as the naming sponsor of the Bali event. Immediately following the press conference, Richard led a “warm-up” swim in Jimbaran Bay followed by a 40 kilometer bike ride along the route that will be used for the Triathlon. www.balitriathlon.com 64
PINK ‘N BLACK The Bali Garlic Club (BGC) pink and black-themed Valentines dinner was held at the Tugu Hotel and Spa, with the purpose of uniting old friends, meeting new ones, enjoying a meal, and most importantly, raising money to help build a school for disabled children in Bali, the Sunrise Disabled Children’s Unit. BGC treasurer, Made Wardani, email@example.com
TWO-STROKE ‘N HEAT
TAX... NOT SO HARD Hard Rock Hotel Bali was honored by the DISPENDA Badung Regency on March 2 for being the largest tax contributor in the category ‘The Most Tax Contribution 4 Star Hotel’. Pictured is Darmawan, Director of Finance of Hard Rock Hotel Bali, holding the award. Hard Rock Hotel Bali (0361) 761-869
The New Kuta Golf (NKG) Course hosted the Indonesia Open 2009. Thailand’s Thongchai Jaidee won the Indonesia Open on Sunday, March 1, for his record 11th Asian Tour title and first European Tour win in four years, closing with a 3-under 69 for a two-stroke victory. Thongchai broke a tie with compatriot Thaworn Wiratchant for the Asian Tour’s victory record, finishing with a 12under 276 on the New Kuta Golf Club course. Thongchai earned $208,330. He commented on the island’s temperature, “I’ve never seen my face like this before, it was extremely hot.” Englishmen Steve Webster (68) and Simon Dyson (69) and Sweden’s Alexander Noren (70) tied for second. PT Intra Golflink Resorts, (021) 398-36468
FESTIVE FUNDS InterContinental Bali Resort was represented by senior staff members during a recent visit to the Panti Salam Orphanage in Tabanan to officially hand over the funds collected during the Resort’s festive season 2008 charity campaign. Below, Human Resources Director of InterContinental Bali Resort Wayan Carma presents the donation to Panti Salam orphanage’s representative Yuni Permatasari. InterContinental Bali Resort, (0361) 701-888
MASS MATRIMONY Meliá Bali Villas & Spa Resort combined love, passion and harmony in a rich and unique Balinese wedding blessing at the Giri Amertha Temple for 17 couples of the Boda Balinesa Spanish Group on February 12. Under the shade of the garden canopy each couple was dressed beautifully in Balinese attire, declaring their love once more and renewing their vows in a Balinese ceremony. Meliá Bali Villas & Spa Resort, (0361) 771-510, www.meliabali.com
SECOND RUSTY VICTORY Putra Hermawan has now won the first and the second Rusty GromFest competitions. Almost 100 kids from all over Bali and beyond came out to Pererenan Beach on March 8 for the second stop of the three-event Rusty Gromfest Series 2009. The other Under 16 finalists were Tia Nustawan in second, Agus Frimanto third, and Kadek Mertayasa fourth. The overall U/16 series winner will be awarded a chance to compete against the best international junior surfers at the 14th annual Rusty Gromfest held at Lennox Head, Australia in July 2009 www.isctour.com 66
ROCKED OFF THE BEACH Hard Rock Hotel Bali participated in a beach cleaning session at Kuta Beach on February 21 with Coca Cola For Bali - Beach Clean Up and with Bali Tourism Board on February 22 to maintain the cleanliness of Kuta beach. The staff collected many bags of rubbish consisting mainly of drink cans, plastic bags, bottles and nylon fishing line and ropes, all of which can be disposed of properly after use. www.hardrockhotels.net
AT THE TEMPLE Karya Panca Bali Krama at Besakih Temple had many Balinese from all walks of life lending a hand and cleaning the temple grounds. Pictured above are more than 60 staff members of Meliá Bali Villas & Spa Resort conducting spiritual activities in combination with a social visit, carrying out cleaning chores and arranging health services for the surrounding community of Besakih Temple.
ALL THAT JAZZ... Our Jakarta representative, Gembi Putra Agam / FHM Indonesia, checked out the recent Java Jazz Festival 2009, and shares some shots and scenes from the international music event. As in recent years, this large Jazz music festival was crowded by fans from both Indonesia and abroad. This yearâ€™s event was held over a three-day period from March 6, 7, and 8 at the Jakarta Convention Center. Special artists performing were close to the hearts of young listeners, the likes of Jason Mraz and Brian McKnight. For the more mature, Swing Out Sisters and Parov Stelar. Meanwhile, for the die hard fans of cross generation Jazz, world artists Dianne Reeves, Laura Fygi, and Roy Ayers won the crowds approval. National artists included Glenn Fredly, Kla Project, Slank, Maliq n Dâ€™Essentials, and Humania. 68
SKAL INTERNATIONAL BALI An International Association of Travel and Tourism Professionals Doing Business Among Friends
BLOSSOM AT SENTOSA IN THE HEART OF SEMINYAK March 6 saw a second time in a row record turnout of 90 for the clubâ€™s monthly lunch. Following the Skal Bali Annual General Meeting in the well appointed penthouse facility of SENTOSA Private Villas and Spa, members and guests gathered for the first time at the Blossom restaurant bordering the pool area for a convivial lunch and get-together. General Manager Made Sukarja, F&B Manager Ridho Adjie and the Blossom team offered a truly wonderful lunch featuring Sushi Prawns, Poached Duck, Angus beef and Tarte Tatin. A significant few lingered on for a libation or two and the cigar smokers were in heaven again. MONTHLY LUNCHES AND EVENTS AT THE BEST VENUES IN BALI The 140 members of Skal Bali meet for fellowship, networking and a great lunch or event every month for fun and an opportunity to bond, network and get to know industry colleagues. April 3 : Lunch at Grand Hyatt in Nusa Dua May 1 : Family BBQ Evening at Hard Rock Hotel Sand Island Pool June 5 : Lunch at Novotel Nusa Dua Hotel & Residences ABOUT SKAL AND SKAL BALI Skal International, founded in Paris in 1934, is the largest travel and tourism organization in the world counting over 20,000 members of its 500 clubs in over 90 countries. Members are leading tourism industry professionals and management from hotels, transportation, tour operators, travel agencies, marine and cruise operators, attractions, restaurants, golf courses, spas and travel and tourism media. Skal Bali is the biggest club in Southeast Asia and second fastest growing club worldwide. For information or reservations contact Gede Juwena at our secretariat at (0361) 784 0212 or at firstname.lastname@example.org
Nusa Dua ra
Jl. Le Jl. Melasti
E Jl. R
Istana Kuta Galleria
Ground Zero Monument
Hard Rock Cafe Jl. Pantai Kuta
Kuta Sea View
aP rtik Ka Jl.
Kuta Center Jl. Raya Tu
Discovery Shopping Mall
Sweden & Finland Consulate
Jl. Segara Ayu
Sindu Beach Jl. Kurusetr
Sanur Paradise Paza
Jl. Danau Tamblingan
Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai
S Jl. Tegeh Agung
Jl. Danau Buyan
Jl. Pratama Raya
Inna Grand Bali Beach
N Bali Golf & Country Club
Jl. Danau Tempe
Czech Rep. Consulate
APRIL 2009 Jl. N
The St. Regis
during these tours are sometimes beyond description. BaliQuad (using ATV’s
VILLA DIANA BALI – luxurious and exclusive place, good value for money. 3
/ quad bikes) and BaliBuggy (using off-road cars) are located in different
villas with 3 bed rooms each, private swimming pool and garage, kitchenete,
locations which offer different tracks. A special “2-in-1 adventure” can be
shower and bath tub, hot/cold running water. Jl. Kresna, Ulun Tanjung, Legian,
arranged, combining both off-road tours in one great adventurous day.
Kuta. Tel: 754-038, 744-1282, 745-1600; Fax: 751-510
BaliQuad, Jl. Wirasatya VI No.9X, Suwung Kangin, Denpasar, Tel: 720-766;
E-mail: email@example.com; www.dianagrouphotel.com
Fax: 727-956 www.baliquad.com; www.balibuggy.com
ACTION & ATTRACTION
INTERNATIONAL NEWSPAPERS BALI ORCHID GARDEN – Enjoy the
NEWSPAPER DIRECT – Bali widest range of daily newspapers from anywhere
beauty of walking among hundreds of
of the world. Chose from 400 titles of 65 countries, daily, weekly or as you like
beautiful and rare orchids, Heliconia,
it. This service delivers you the complete edition of your hometown newspaper
Ginger and other interesting plants.
on the same day of publication to your hotel or home on Bali. Contact your
A peaceful, natural and safe haven
hotel or villa reception or call/email them
close to the city. Enjoy a drink and find
for the selection and pricelist 0361 769414
unique souvenirs. Tel: 466-010, Fax:
466-011; www.baliorchidgarden.com; E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org
TOURS & TRAVEL ADVENTURE INDONESIA – JUNGLE SURVIVAL TRAINING & FUN JUNGLE
BALI QUAD DISCOVERY TOURS - The Bali Quad and Bali Buggy tours
WAR, Student Field Trip, Orangutan & Dayak, Explore Irian Jaya Tribes, Komodo
both bring you to a part of Bali where you still can find old traditions alive.
& Flores Adventure, Toraja Tour. BALI: Ruko Wana Segara 12A, Tel: (0361) 750
Drive yourself with a specially designed off-road vehicle that copes with all
971, 750 964. JAKARTA: Wisma 31 kemang, 3rd floor tel: (021) 7182250/56,
kinds of terrain, through an authentic part of the island, passing rice fields,
crossing jungles and driving through a traditional Balinese village. The views
subscribe NOW! ISLANDS UNDING 0 SURRO ER 18,00 AND OV RADISE PA F C T H E S U N . . . T H E S A N D . . . T H ECSUULR . .ET O HE ULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS T FU.R F... THE THE SUR
YOND BALI &EBEYOND LI & B BA
AND... ... THE S THE SUN
Y 2009 J A N U A R NO. 104 11 VOLUME
FEBRUARY 2009 VOLUME 11 NO. 105
SCENTS MADE S SENSIBLE RANG SIGHT MA
SEWHERE IN THE CITY OF
A RECENT PERFUME MASTER
GEDO CLASS SUGGESTS THATNG YOU ELSE ; FROM THE CAN SUBSTITUTE THEED COMMON SEMARANG ON THE RUGG A RAN VALENTINE’S ROSES ANDTO SONGO HIGH MOUNT UNGA ED CHOCOLATES WITH SOMETHING N DOTT SLOPES OF ATOW G CHIN MORE SPECIAL SPRAWLIN LES... WITH TEMP
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T YOUR ENGAGING STAR ! RESH , AF UPHILLS T YEAR CITY’S MOS TO THE CAPITAL BALIREME IS NOTDIES JUST ABOUT FIND NDEDBEAUTIFUL RE BEACHES, BEFO RECOMME YOURSELFLOVELY LAKES. REFRESHIT ALSO HAS NEW 2009! A WHOLE STARTING BEDUGUL IS A COMPLETE TOURIST DESTINATION FULL OF ACTIVITIES
TAKE ME TO N CHINATOW BIKING TONDANO LAKE
COMPL IMENT ISSN
MNS LU OM N E W & N E W S • I N F O I N D E X • M A P O F B A L I • C L A LSASSI FSI E NS 1 I FDI ECDOCL U • C JANUARY 2009 OF BALI BALI&BEYOND X • MAP FO INDE EWS • IN NEW & N
Have a copy of Bali & Beyond delivered to your home address monthly. Name: _________________________________________________ Address: _______________________________________________ City: ___________________________________________________ Country: ___________________ Postcode: ___________________ Phone: _________________________________________________ E-mail: _________________________________________________ Payment Method by Transfer Delivery fees: Within Indonesia : Rp. 150.000/year Asia, Australia & Africa : US$ 220/year Europe & America : US$ 240/year Please settle payment to the following account: PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma, (A/C. IDR) 534.30.05458.0 Lippo Bank Cabang Kuta Graha, Kuta-Bali Fax this form and proof of transfer to (0361) 762-096 Please reconfirm your fax by calling (0361) 764-274 BALI&BEYOND
THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: 286-406 E-mail: consul @dps.centrin.net.id
■ AIRPORT OPERATOR Tel: (0361) 751-011 ■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888 ■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: 768-369
■ GERMANY: Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535; Fax: 288-826 Email: email@example.com ■ HUNGARY: Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur. Tel: (0361) 287-701 Fax: 287-456 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org ■ ITALY: Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org
■ ROYAL BRUNEI Tel: (0361) 757-292 ■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 768-388, Fax: 768-383 ■ GARUDA, Jl. Jalan Sugianyar 5 Denpasar Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807
■ JAPAN: Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628; Fax: 265-066 ■ MEXICO: PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon Tel: (0361) 223-266 E-mail: email@example.com
■ MERPATI, Jl. Melati No. 51, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 235-358 Airport Tel: (0361) 751-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741
■ NETHERLANDS: KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, KutaTel: (0361) 751-517, Fax: 752-777 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org
■ MANDALA AIRLINES, Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya, Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar Reservation Call center 08041234567
■ NORWAY & DENMARK: Mimpi Resorts, Jimbaran, Tel: (0361) 701070 E-mail: email@example.com
■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761
■ SLOVAKIA: Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426171; Fax: 426-477 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org
■ THAI INTERNATIONAL, Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141 ■ QATAR AIRWAYS Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788. Wisti Sabha Building, 2nd Floor, Ngurah Rai International Aiprort, Tel: (0361) 760-274 Fax: 760-275 ■ DEPARTURE Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 30,000. Residents pay an additional Rp. 2.5 million Fiscal tax for international departures, whereas holders of official tax registration (NPWP) numbers are Fiscal tax-exempt. Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011
CONSULATES ■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA, NEW ZEALAND: Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: 221-195 E-mail: email@example.com www.dfat.gov.au ■ BRITAIN: Jl. Mertasari 2, Sanur, Denpasar 80227. Tel: (0361) 270-601 Fax: 270-570 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org ■ CZECH REPUBLIC: Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur. Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: 286-408 E-mail: email@example.com ■ FRANCE: Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur
■ SPAIN: Jl.Raya Sanggingan, Br. Lungsiakan Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: (0361) 975-736 Fax: 975-726; E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org ■ SWEDEN & FINLAND Jl. Segara Ayu (Segara Village Hotel) Tel: (0361) 288-407, Fax: 287-242 E-mail: email@example.com
fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas. Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately. Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe. Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun. Use high SPF sunblock and a hat. AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world. They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies.
HOSPITAL ■ MEDICAL EVACUATIONS: Contact your consulate. ■ BALI INTERNATIONAL MEDICAL CENTER, Provides medical attention for emergencies and evacuations. Jl. Ngurah Rai 100X, at the Kuta-Sanur-Nusa Dua roundabout. Tel: (0361) 761-263. ■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361. Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: 710-515. ■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital), Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15. ■ KASIH IBU HOSPITAL (Private Hospital) 24-hour emergency traumatology unit, maternity center, complete facilities and a full list of specialists, Jl. Teuku Umar 120, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 223-036; Fax: 238-690 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org www.kasihibu.co.id
■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA: Istana Kuta Galeria Blok Valet 2 No 12, Kuta Tel: (0361) 751-735, Fax: 754-457 E-mail: email@example.com
■ ABIAN KAPAS, Tel: (0361) 227-176 East Denpasar.
■ UNITED STATES: Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 233-605 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org
■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART (ARMA) Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229. Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm.
HEALTH & MEDICAL Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics. Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace fluids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods. Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue
■ ANTONIO BLANCO, Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551, Ubud, open daily 8 am-5 pm. ■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Tel: (0361) 942-352, Pejeng. Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays. ■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL LIBRARY, Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday - Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends. ■ GALLERY SENIWATI, Jl. Ubud Raya, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485 ■ MUSEUM BALI, Tel: (0361) 235-059, 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar.
■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur. Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday. ■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended. ■ MUSEUM NEKA, Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm. ■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN, Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com ■ MUSEUM RUDANA, Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud. ■ MUSEUM SUBAK, Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan.
TELECOMMUNICATIONS ■ CELLULAR SERVICES Indonesia applies GSM (Global Services for Mobiles). You can purchase prepaid calling cards at lower cost than calling on your home card. Major Service Providers are Telkomsel, Satelindo, Pro XL and Indosat. Look for kiosks and outlet signs or banners with product variants and brand markings. ■ TELKOMSEL The major GSM provider, Telkomsel, is reputed to have the widest national coverage area, minimizing connection and signal relay inconvenience. Graha Telkomsel, Jl. Diponegoro 134 Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 228-811.
TOURIST INFORMATION ■ INTEGRATED TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361 Tel: (0361) 766-188 ■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT, Tel: (0361) 751-011 ■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE, Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76 ■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387 ■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE, Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41 ■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE, Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm.