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BALI EXPAT ◆ 4th – 17th December 2013
Indonesia's Largest Expatriate Readership
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37th Edition
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4th – 17th December 2013
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HORSEBACK RIDING IN MENJANGAN NATIONAL PARK, NORTH BALI
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4th – 17th December 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT
dear readers
37 th Edition | 4th – 17 th December 2013 Editor in Chief
Angela Richardson
angela@baliexpat.biz Editorial Assistant
Gabriella Panjaitan
gabriella@baliexpat.biz Management Edo Frese
edo@baliexpat.biz Sales Erna
erna@baliexpat.biz Distribution
Dian Mardianingsih
dian@baliexpat.biz Graphics
Frederick Ng
fred@baliexpat.biz Finance & Admin
Pertiwi Gianto Putri
tiwi@jakartaexpat.biz Lini Verawaty
lini@jakartaexpat.biz Contributors
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lmost anywhere in Bali, look up to the skies and you will find a kite soaring through the air, sometimes two, and oftentimes more. Kite flying in Bali is a deep-rooted pastime, linked to tradition and religion, not to mention a great hobby and a way of having fun. These days, kites in Bali are also used as a way of shedding light and raising awareness about a certain issue, oftentimes regarding the environment. And so much creativity goes into making these flying beauties. I’ve even once come across a phallic-shaped kite, which was very different, but certainly amusing! Contrary to the solitary image kite flying may conjure, the ancient practice of kite flying in Bali actually involves team work, sometimes bringing together whole villages. Firstly, it takes a lot of effort to build one of these flying masterpieces. The framework is made of bamboo, which the Balinese build together, oftentimes accompanied by gamelan music, and a small contraption called a gewangan is attached to the frame, which creates the alltoo-familiar buzzing noise you hear when a kite is flying near you, and this sound actually symbolizes the harmony between man and woman. The three main shapes of traditional Balinese kites are the Janggan (bird-shaped), the Pecukan (leaf-shaped) and the Bebean (fishshaped). The body of the Janggan kites can reach over 10 metres in length, with an extra 120 metres of tail trailing behind it. These mega kites require the cooperation and handy work of many people, uniting people in a quest to impress their friends and neighbours, not to mention appease the Gods.
Before kites are flown to meet the Gods, ceremonies must be performed to purify them. Incense and prayers give the kites powers to send the request of an abundant harvest to the Gods. This is also the reason why the annual Bali Kite Festival takes place. Once the kite flying ceremony has taken place, a Dipralina ceremony is held, cremating the kites to allow their spirits’ return to their original form. All in all the process from start to finish is intricate and symbolistic, as is with most things in Balinese tradition, and this tradition is set to last the test of the ages. This issue is themed ‘Hobbies’, of which there are so many on the island of the Gods. Paul V. Walters meets Apel Hendrawan, renowned tattoo artist and feels the sting of the needle for himself. Karen Davis speaks to Tricia Davis (no relation), General Manager of Bali Equestrian Centre, Bill Dalton speaks to Tamara Fielding, wayang puppet storyteller, Intan Tanjung chases the obsession with all things gold, and much more. We hope you enjoy this issue, and continue to enjoy your own hobbies, whatever they may be! Angela Richardson
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Stephanie Brookes Bill Dalton
Karen Davis
Seamus McElroy Eamonn Sadler Intan Tanjung
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in this 37th issue: Tamara Fielding: Wayang Puppeteer ........................................................................ 4 Faces of Bali: Mur the Offering Lady ......................................................................... 5 Under My Skin: The Explosion of Tattooing ........................................................... 6 Meet the Expat: Tricia Davis ...................................................................................... 8 On Your Bike—The Art of Riding a Bike in Bali ..................................................... 10 All that Glitters is Gold ............................................................................................... 12 Light Entertainment: It's All in the Delivery .......................................................... 13 Events and Classifieds .......................................................................................... 14–15
Events
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spotted! Bali Expat is published bi-weekly by PT. Koleksi Klasik. Opinions expressed in this publication are those of the writers and the publisher does not accept any responsibility for any errors, ommisions, or complaints arising there from. No parts of this publication can be reproduced in whole or in part, in print or electronically without permission of the publisher. All trademarks, logos, brands and designs are copyright and fully reserved by PT. Koleksi Klasik Indonesia.
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BALI EXPAT ◆ 4th – 17th December 2013
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4th – 17th December 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT
preserving tradition
Tamara Fielding
Wayang Puppeteer by Bill Dalton
assimilating into western society, I managed to finish school in Holland. Although uprooted and separated from my homeland, I never lost my love and passion for the art of puppetry. The magic and stories of wayang were locked inside me. Theatre was my first love. As a young adult, my passion for all things theatrical brought me to Paris where I studied acting and appeared in the American films Lust for Life and Trapeze.
T
amara Fielding was born in 1934 in Cimahi, West Java, in the Dutch East Indies to a Dutch father and a mixed Indonesian and European mother. She grew up in a large house where four generations of her family lived together under one roof. Tamara’s privileged and happy childhood came to an abrupt end when Japanese soldiers marched through the streets of Bandung on March 9th, 1942. After spending three and a half years in Japanese prison camps, she and her mother and sister escaped and fled to Holland where she continued her schooling. Tamara studied drama in Paris and appeared in American movies filmed in France. Following her childhood dream, she immigrated to the United States and performed her first wayang kulit show for friends in 1985. Since then she has staged shadow puppet theatre throughout the world. In 2011, Tamara wrote Shadow Princess, a book based on her childhood experiences. What was your first exposure to wayang theatre? I learned the art of the dalang, or puppeteer of wayang kulit, at an early age. It was on my family’s rubber plantation that I first watched an all-night wayang kulit performance. This almost mystical childhood experience proved to be a great force in my future artistic development and was to ultimately take me onto the international stage. Can you tell us about your wartime experiences? With the advent of World War II, my family was torn from our idyllic life and imprisoned in several Japanese concentration camps in Bandung and Batavia. The Japanese were extremely cruel, especially to women whom
they expected to be subservient to men, and we suffered horribly. We were sick and barely alive when the war ended on August 14, 1945. But if we thought that with Japan’s surrender to the Allies the war was over, we were mistaken. Did you gain your freedom after the war? On August 17, 1945 Sukarno was proclaimed President of the new Republic of Indonesia, which signalled the beginning of a bloody revolution for Indonesia’s independence from the Dutch. Without protection of the Allied forces who had yet to land troops on Java, the lives of Dutch citizens like ourselves were more endangered than ever. We managed to escape from the prison camp and found refuge on a Liberty troop transport ship leaving from Batavia for Holland. We lost everything. How did you cope with culture shock? After adjusting to living in an unfamiliar country and
I LIKE TO sit around my fishpond and entertain my grandchildren with Indonesian folktales my grandmother told me a long time ago.
When did you begin studying the art of the puppeteer? It wasn't until several years later, after I had immigrated to the United States, settled in New York, married and had two beautiful children. Continuing my career as an actress, I realized I had a culture of my own that needed to be exposed to western audiences. I had inherited a few wayang kulit puppets that had been in the family, enough for a short play. Soon the sounds and visions from the wayang plays on the plantation returned to me. I remembered so vividly how the dalang made his puppets dance, love, fight and fly over the white cotton screen. Dalang means puppeteer, “master of shadows,” a profession that has been dominated by men for centuries. When was your fist performance? I performed my first wayang show for friends at the Unitarian Church in New York. Since then I've returned to Indonesia several times, studying and collecting over 400 puppets. In 1999, I was invited by then President B.J. Habibie to perform at the Pekan Wayang Festival in Jakarta, the only Indonesian-born woman dalang among 50 male dalang.
Do you now make regular appearances performing as a dalang? I formed my own theatre company TAMARA AND THE SHADOW THEATRE OF JAVA and have presented my show at schools, universities, museums and on cruise ships. I've performed at international festivals in Greece and Brazil. I also do speaking engagements for fundraising events. My hope is that I help people better understand each other through culture and art.
scripted them in English and they are just a bit shorter to make them better suited for western audiences. I own a complete set of gamelan instruments to accompany my shows with musicians from the Indonesian consulate in New York. Could you tell us a little bit about your book Shadow Princess: An Indonesian Story? I have always wanted to write a book. My co-author, Cindy Marvell, profiled me in The New York Times. That’s how we met and the idea to write a fictional novel together was born. The book was published in 2011 and launched at the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival in 2012 in Bali. The story, some of which is drawn from my own life, is about a teenager who experiences life fullforce during the Sumatra tsunami. Filled with Indonesian mythology, forest spirits and puppetry, this brave young girl makes an adventurous journey in search of her family. Guided by Mouse Deer “Kancil,” a mischievous yet lovable character from Indonesian folklore, she is reunited with her grandmother and learns about a long-kept family secret. What are your future plans? I will continue pursuing the things I love—art, travel, writing and boating. I own and captain a 33-foot Sea Ray cabin cruiser called Born-to-be-Wild. I like to sit around my fishpond and entertain my grandchildren with Indonesian folktales my grandmother told me a long time ago. It would be exciting to turn my book into a screenplay and into a movie. I have also begun writing my memoirs about my life’s experiences during WW II in Indonesia and how the war impacted the lives of all those who have survived in different ways. How can you be contacted? E-mail: javapuppets@aol.com Website: www.indonesianshadowplay.com. My book is available at Ganesha bookstores in Bali or from www.amazon.com.
Are the wayang plots adapted to a western audience? Yes, the stories and plots are the same as in Indonesia; they have the same endings, but I have
Bill Dalton Bill Dalton has been writing travel features, book reviews, interviews and guidebooks about Indonesia for more than 40 years, starting with his groundbreaking Indonesia Handbook first published in 1976. Bill lives on a farm with his Indonesian family deep in the countryside of west Bali.
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BALI EXPAT ◆ 4th – 17th December 2013
faces of bali
Mur The Offering Lady by Stephanie Brookes
M
ur is 16 years old and has been dutifully carrying out her task as a tukang banten since she was ten years old. She sets about her daily ritual of giving offerings to the Gods at 9am or 3pm, depending on her school schedule. Also, Mur told me that when she is menstruating she has to give her job to another family member.
health and to positively confirm that all is good and peaceful.
“I go to four locations,” Mur told me. “First I start with the temple in my family compound, then I walk to the rice field and place the next offering in a small candi. Next I go to the Mangku’s temple in my village and then I finish at this villa,” she explained. Mur’s journey takes two hours.
Mur's elder sister is 19 years old and works in a hotel, so she gave her role over to Mur a few years ago. When Mur graduates from high school and moves on with a career or study, she will pass this duty on to her younger sister, who is already nine years old.
She makes the offerings herself at home and showed me her simple canang. “When we have auspicious days like the new moon, the full moon, Galungan and other special days, I make a more elaborate offering, which is called an Ajumam. This offering must have banana, rice, peanuts and shredded and cooked coconut,” Mur explained. Before she sets out on her rounds, Mur lights the incense in the kitchen and then walks (or rather glides) to the family temple and places the first offering, sprinkles it with holy water and then performs ayaban, with the incense which she described to me as, “Connecting with God and speaking through the heart.” Her message to God is to ask for happiness, good
I was curious to know if she must enter a zone of silence or keep a certain presence of mind for these two hours a day. “Oh no,” Mur replied, “It’s quite alright for me to talk with people, but when I am performing ayaban with the incense people can talk to me, but I will not reply.”
I was very taken with Mur’s calm and peaceful energy and could not help but reflect on the graciousness and inner peace she emits, which surely must be a reflection of the six years she has spent practicing this very beautiful act of giving almost every day of her life. Offerings are gifts to the Gods which express gratitude to benevolent spirits and as well, they serve to placate mischievous demons who disturb the harmony of life. These shadow world inhabitants of Bali are treated as honoured guests through this act of offering. The offerings must always be attractive. Once an offering is used, it may not be used again, so each and every day, new ones must be made. Offerings to the Gods and ancestors are placed in high altars while the demons receive theirs at ground level.
Stephanie Brookes Stephanie Brookes is a freelance travel writer www.travelwriter.ws and blogger and has been covering our Faces of Bali column for David Metcalf, www. davidmetcalfphotography.com our regular columnist, who is away for one month.
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4th – 17th December 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT
tattooing
Under My Skin
The Explosion of Tattooing by Paul V. Walters
H
idden away in a modest apartment in Gifu, central Japan, 79-year-old tattoo artist Horihide (meaning to carve) is preparing his tools. Over the decades this supreme master of the art of the hand tattoo has been plying his trade inking the bodies of Yakuza members, geishas and several members of the Japanese royal family. Today he will begin work on a client who has waited 32 years for an appointment and has flown all the way from California to have the work done by arguably one of the best in the business! Tattooing is exploding across the planet, especially among the 18 to 35-year age group, to the point where more than one fifth of the adult population of Great Britain have decided to adorn their bodies with images that are personal expressions of individualism. Once the preserve of sailors, bikers and assorted deviants, tattooing has now definitely gone mainstream. Hardly a week goes by when we see in magazines, celebrities sporting their latest tattoo evoking a rallying cry with erudite quotes inked onto their bodies. Think Angelina Jolie, David Beckham and Robbie Williams to name but a few.
It’s not just skin deep
Tattooing has been around for centuries. When the ‘iceman’ was discovered entombed inside a glacier on the Italian/Austrian border, once thawed it was found that he had elaborate designs tattooed onto his chest, back and knuckles of both hands. Carbon dating revealed that this man died some 5,500 years ago meaning the art of adorning one’s body with imagery has been with us for quite some time. In Indonesia tattooing arrived into Kalimantan centuries ago where the Dayaks adopted the practice thought to have migrated south from the Yunnan Province in China. Wearing tattoos was initially the preserve of men and it often symbolized the taking of heads. However in Dayak Kayan, it is mainly the preserve of the women who adorn their bodies
with intricate designs. They follow the traditional application method of applying the inks using a thin bamboo shoot, which has been filed to a shark point and then ‘hammered‘ into the skin with a small mallet. The English word Tattoo actually comes from the Tahitian ‘tatu’ where the practice of skin art originated in the South Pacific. The trend spread quickly to other South Sea Islands, where men in Samoa, Tonga, Fiji and New Zealand adopted the practice before weaving its way up into Indonesia’s southern archipelago. In certain societies the tattoo was considered barbaric, as often only criminals were tattooed across their foreheads to show the crimes they had committed. However, the tattoo as art began to gain traction amongst even the elite of several societies. Marco Polo on his travels observed that, “Many come from as far afield as India, travelling to China to have their bodies painted with the needle.” In Samoa, the tattoo is still sacred amongst men coming of age, where the skin from above the waist to below the knees is fully inked. This is known as Pe’a and is applied over many months using traditional methods of application, such as sharpened turtle shell or bones. A half completed tattoo on a Samoan man is a mark of shame, as it shows that the recipient was not able to complete the design and therefore did not pay the artist.
Needles and Sins
What is it today that makes one contemplate enduring pain in order to make a bold statement on one’s body that will accompany them to the grave? Walk down any main street or gang in Bali and more than often there will sit a tattoo parlour ready to apply any given design on whatever part of the anatomy you choose.
Rebelliousness? A rush of blood to the head? Too many tequilas at that last bar? Whatever the reason, it seems that the steam of customers heading to tattooists is certainly not decreasing. I recently visited an old friend, Apel Hendrawan, a renowned author, artist and tattoo artist who let me sit in on a session or two where he was applying an intricate design to the shoulders of a Dutch tourist who had travelled from Amsterdam especially to have work done. There is no doubt that there is a certain skill in applying a complex design to living flesh and there is absolutely no room for error!
APEL HENDRAWAN AT WORK
TATTOO
The English word Tattoo actually comes from the Tahitian ‘tatu’ where the practice of skin art originated in the South Pacific.
Tattoos will always be with us and even if the trend dies off in the next few years, those discreet and not so discreet statements of one’s individuality will be on show for many years to come. There is still perhaps a stigma associated with getting a tat’, “as if one has slipped down the food chain and joined the ranks of the criminal deviants or the lower classes.” Not so. It’s an individual choice, as Clementine, wife of Winston Churchill once said when revealing a multi-coloured coiled snake that twisted up her the inside of her left arm. In order to make this article a little more authentic, I felt I had to give it a whirl! Without a thought I hopped into Apel’s chair, rested my arm on a pedestal and watched while he applied a phrase in Balinese Sanskrit to my inner arm. It was akin to being stung several times by a swarm of bees, but once begun there was no turning back. The comments I receive are varied and many, but too bad, it’s there for as long as I tread this earth so I, and everybody else will simply have to live with it.
Paul V. Walters Paul V. Walters is a bestselling author of two novels, Final Diagnosis and Blowblack . He is temporarily living in Sanur while he completes the trilogy. www.paulvwalters.com
PAUL V. WALTER'S NEW TATTOO
BALI EXPAT ◆ 4th – 17th December 2013
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4th – 17th December 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT
meet the expat
Meet
Tricia Davis
by Karen Davis
General Manager of Bali Equestrian Centre, the island’s only equestrian facility with a five star international rating. BEC includes the Aravina Restaurant and Cellar Door, a pool club and playground, equestrian gallery and extensive facilities for the entire family to enjoy.
Tricia, where are you from? Perth W.A and have resided in Bali for six years. How did you become a part of BEC? I was previously employed at Canggu Club where I met Melissa Lynton-Lobato, the owner of BEC, a long time resident of Bali and also from W.A. She had been planning BEC for many years and was able to secure this property, two hundred acres in the middle of the then rural Canggu, and it all started happening. It has been extremely rewarding and satisfying watching it evolve and to see the end results. What went up first? The stables have been operating for two years. Aravina Restaurant & Cellar Door, The Gallery, Pool Club and Playground followed one year later. How do you maintain the facilities for horses at such a high standard? We have such a great team here. Most of the grooms have been with us since the beginning and have close ties with the horses. Each groom is assigned to take care of three horses. The stables are equipped with overhead fans, fluorescent insect zappers, as well as wash bays for horses and ponies. Facilities include a 20m by 20m covered rubber-surfaced children’s arena, a 25m by 65m covered sand arena with dressage
mirrors, floodlights and spectator seating, a 30m by 70m floodlit outdoor arena and forty two luxury stables, surrounded by eight lush grass paddocks. We get inquiries daily from people wanting to ageist their horses at BEC, but at this stage we just don’t have the room. Several clients lease our horses so those horses get that extra personal relationship. Everything is focused on the health and well being of the horses. We have a Yayasan with Made Restiati, the renowned veterinarian. She takes care of all of our horses, checking them regularly. Tell me about the lessons and instructors at BEC. Our instructors are all internationally accredited. They will assess your riding level and create classes to achieve the goals you want to set. The whole family can come enjoy the pool and playground while a family member has a riding lesson. We have a wonderful Sunday brunch with recreational facilities to please everyone. We also offer a selection of guided tours through the rice paddies and fishing villages to Berawa Beach or Echo Beach. Private and group lessons for children and adults are designed to further your understanding and passion for horsemanship and riding. There
OUR INSTRUCTORS are all internationally accredited. They will assess your riding level and create classes to achieve the goals you want to set. The whole family can come enjoy the pool and playground while a family member has a riding lesson.
is a variety of riding possibilities for children starting at three years of age, including pony rides, Pony Club, camps, lessons and equestrian themed birthday parties are proving very popular. It’s exciting for the kids whilst parents can relax, wine and dine in a tranquil setting. You recently held The Melbourne Cup here. How was that? It was an excellent event and next year will be even grander! BEC is such a great place to hold events and we look forward to hosting more in 2014. Our Aravina Restaurant and Cellar Door sit at the heart of the riding centre and is a beautiful venue that overlooks
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BALI EXPAT ◆ 4th – 17th December 2013
the main riding arena and Pool Club and Playground. All the proceeds from the Melbourne Cup went to support our chosen foundation, Safe Childhood Foundation, which is such an amazing program. What are the future plans for BEC? We have many plans for the coming year. Soon we will commence vaulting lessons, which is gymnastics on horses. We plan to hold a gymkhana in December, which will showcase our Team Riders’ skills. We are planning to incorporate a special needs program for children as horses teach us to focus, feel and to respond. We will employ a qualified instructor for these classes. We are also looking at purchasing a Spanish dancing horse, which will be wonderful to sit here in the restaurant and watch! We definitely have a huge 2014 coming up!
To find out more about Bali Equestrian Centre, e-mail: info@ baliequestriancentre.com or visit www. baliequestriancentre.com
Karen Davis Chilean-born American, Karen Davis is a journalist, artist and art therapist. Formerly a NYC fashion designer, she has been coming to Bali since 1979 and now resides here.
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4th – 17th December 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT
cycling
On Your Bike
The Art of Riding a Bike in Bali by Seamus McElroy
Explore, discover, be passionate
People who ride their bikes in Bali are passionate about biking. And while most do so on tarmac roads, the best way to see the countryside is off-road on a suitable mountain bike. It can be hard work climbing up the side of a mountain, but then there is the ride down, which is exhilarating at speed. Kids start learning to ride at an early age on three-wheelers, then graduate to proper bikes with stabilizers, before getting the confidence to ditch them for the speed and freedom of riding solo. But the biggest turn-off to ever getting into the saddle in Bali are other road users, whether four wheel or two, who seem to think the road is there for them alone. It can be pretty scary coming fast down a hill with a big truck close on your tail!
Pick your bike well
A good bike is a must for a serious cyclist. And you need to pick it well. It should have at least 18 gears, but 28 is even better. Wide tires are best and so the picky rider will almost certainly go for a
mountain bike with independent suspension, front and back. A proper cycle helmet is a must as it will certainly come off and it can save your life, not just your head, from serious injury. These bikes are not cheap, so a good quality lock is a must. Here is a short specification for a suitable off-road bike for use in Bali. Banshee Paradox 29er hardtail size M, with RS Reba 120mm, drivetrain X.9 with race face crank, carbon brakes and WTB tires (pictured right). High-end mountain bikes can also be hired through a local shop called ‘The Bike Shop’ (BMTBonline.com) and biking holidays can be arranged through several companies, one of the best being Trailblazers, where a bike can be hired for $50 per day and you can join one of their organized rides. If you are planning a riding holiday for a group, they will help you organize it with some spectacular rides included days on the beach or canoeing down the rapids to break up the days on the saddle.
Bike clubs
There are very few bike clubs in Bali, some being associated with particular schools, but one which has its own Facebook page is the Bali Road and Mountain Bike Club. New members are always welcome. They are a group of cycling enthusiasts, both on and off road, who are passionate about cycling in Bali. They explore single tracks into the jungles, rice fields, and rivers and invite new members to join this recently formed (2011) and fast growing club! One definite advantage of joining a bike club is that you get to meet new people who are passionate about biking, who can help you to
find good rides in your own neck of Bali. They also typically help by providing assistance with training or maintaining your bike and sourcing bike equipment.
Great bike journeys in Bali Ring of Fire tour
Spend a night in the Batur caldera on the slopes of Mount
Batur’s volcano and experience the famous Mount Batur sunrise, before riding over the latest lava field! Then cycle the dramatic single track Batur volcano descent! You won’t forget this ride! Try the Lake Buyan rainforest trails or tackle the tricky ridgetop singletrack in Karangasem.
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BALI EXPAT ◆ 4th – 17th December 2013
One of my favourites is the top end road of Bali, from Singaraja to Menjangan dive resort, finishing it off at the Balai Taman National Park on the north eastern tip of the island. This road is quieter and a lot safer. It is a good idea to have someone in a car or van who is trailing you if you are on the road. They can carry your gear and provide support when you burst a tire or break down.
Off-road biking on your BMX
There are many footpath trails in the mountains and these can be explored on your BMX singly
ONE DEFINITE ADVANTAGE of joining a bike club is that you get to meet new people who are passionate about biking, who can help you to find good rides in your own neck of Bali. They also typically help by providing assistance with training or maintaining your bike and sourcing bike equipment.
or as part of a group. There are many good rides in and around Ubud and Besakih, and for sheer beauty of scenery, try riding in the caldera at the side of Mount Kintamani. There is no Bali equivalent to Jakarta’s Sudirman Carfree day on Sunday mornings, but if you are an early riser, you’ll find many roads are quiet on Sunday mornings. And if you are cycling solo, be sure to wear a dayglo vest to ensure you can be seen from afar by speeding motorists.
Stunt riding
Finally, youngsters like to use their BMXs for performing stunts — whether in the air or on the ground. It can be great fun jumping from one level to another. You definitely need a good helmet, plus arm and knee protectors because you will be spending a lot of time hitting the dirt before you master the finer motor skills that this activity takes. Watching stunt experts go through their routines is impressive, but as such riders will tell you this is not a sport for the faint-hearted and takes a hell of a lot of practice before you can master the moves. Whichever way you want to do it, enjoy your cycling and stay safe on and off the road! BALICYCLING.COM Seamus McElroy Seamus McElroy is an environmental consultant and University lecturer based in Bali.
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4th – 17th December 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT
obsessions
All that Glitters is
by Intan Tanjung
I
watched a documentary which said that gold and other metal elements in the universe were made of a dying star and I couldn’t help but wonder; maybe it’s not the shine and sparkle that we admire of gold, but maybe it’s the rarity and the fact that gold won’t be created again on this earth that makes us yearn for it. For thousands of years, gold has witnessed stories of human civilizations. And just like the Incan or ancient Egyptian empires, gold has its own story in Bali. In the past, Balinese goldsmiths produced the most exquisite gold jewelleries for royalties, and the meticulous works still remain famous until now. Although recently silver has taken the crown, gold is still not forgotten. Open any door at jewellery workshops in Celuk and Mas, ask if they have gold jewelleries in the making, and they will surely nod and show you stunning gold jewelleries ready for export.
©GOLD DUST BL
and learn of the varieties of gold jewellery sold in these shops; from earrings to bracelets, plain gold or with colourful gems, with prices starting from hundreds of thousands to hundreds of million Rupiah. A shop called Windu Sara displays jewelleries of a traditional style, flowers and granulations upon beautiful filigree, usually worn by Balinese women for important ceremonies. It makes me realize that gold still plays an important role in Balinese culture. For those who love a classical design, outlets in Seminyak may better suit your taste. Gorgeous jewelleries, each with beautiful gemstones, are displayed at Jemme Jewellery, which is located on Jalan Petitenget. Their classical design, which is said to last over generations, can become a love symbol or a perfect gift for someone special.
To shop with locals, Jalan Hasanuddin is perhaps the best place to go. I head to the centre of Denpasar during a cloudy day to start my day of gold. As soon as I get there, the gloom is replaced with the shine of gold from the jewellery stores along the road.
For even more unique jewellery, perhaps John Hardy’s one-of-akind Cinta Collection is the right choice. Made by combining fine gold with rare sourced stones, this unique collection, created for the wife of the visionary founder, makes this jewellery series a symbol of eternal love and undying romance.
In this gold trade centre located not far from Pasar Badung, some ladies sitting in front of the gold shop greet and invite me to sell my gold. I explore some shops
But in this modern time, jewellery is not the only ultimate love symbol for someone special; a plate of foie gras, covered with 24K gold dust will surely deliver
GOLD DUST BEAUTY LOUNGE, CANGGU
GOLD SHOPPING AT JL. HASANUDDIN
IN THE PAST,
covering my face, I can feel the gold layer firm my skin, nurturing me with its shine. Maybe it’s true that gold can give confidence to those who wear it, explaining why it is the most precious thing of all.
Balinese goldsmiths produced the most exquisite gold jewelleries for royalties, and the meticulous works still remain famous until now.
the message. I tried it at JuMa-Na, located at Banyan Tree Resort, Ungasan. This French duck liver layered with edible gold dust was transformed into stunning edible jewellery, which I thought too lovely to eat. Gold is also good for beauty. Some beauticians believe that this precious metal can provide glow to create radiant skin, able to firm skin as well as aid cell recovery. Having regular gold beauty treatments is believed to improve skin quality, as gold can also act
24K GOLD LEAF FACIAL MASK
©JOHN HARDY
as an antioxidant and improve skin metabolism. It is no wonder the queen of ancient Egypt, Cleopatra, chose this precious metal to enhance her beauty. I head to Gold Dust Beauty Lounge on Jalan Batu Bolong, Canggu, to experience a unique beauty treatment; a 24K gold leaf facial. In this chic treatment room, I enjoy a two-hour rejuvenating facial treatment where the therapist cleanses and gently massages my face, as well as shoulders, hands and feet, following the alluring rhythm of music that calms my inner peace and I am at bliss. With the mask
Gold Dust Beauty Lounge has two types of gold facials; one is using pure 24K gold leaf, and the other is 24K Gold Collagen Facial using collagen, an anti-aging serum to maximize the absorption of the 24K gold mask nutrients. The good news is this 24K gold collagen mask can be bought and used at home. To complete my day, I am given a manicure-pedicure treatment, and to remind me of this special day, I choose gold colour for my nails. Later that afternoon at Echo beach, I sip vodka mixed with gold flakes. I watch the sunset and think about the dying star. Maybe we have to experience many lifetimes before a new deposit of gold is formed on a new planet. Although we are now consuming the last gold deposit on earth, I learnt that we don’t have to always adorn gold and possess it; it can always shine from within us.
Intan Tanjung Intan Tanjung is a contributing writer for national and international publication on Bali's lifestyle, culture and as a popular travel destination. She loves the beach culture and the fantastic tropical way of living as well as the amazing proliferation of art.
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BALI EXPAT ◆ 4th – 17th December 2013
light entertainment
To find out more about live stand-up comedy in Indonesia please e-mail info@jakartacomedyclub.com text or call (+62) 821 1194 3084 or register at www.jakartacomedyclub.com
It's All in the Delivery by Eamonn Sadler
I
n the late 80s I was driving a delivery van 60 hours a week for a company called Data Express and saving all the money I earned for a round-the-world air ticket (in the end I got off at Jakarta and never got back on again). Data Express operated out of my home town of Oxford and was largely focused, as you might guess from the name, on the transport and delivery of computer parts and accessories. I quickly learned that driving a van for Data Express required me to forget any word I knew with more than two syllables, downgrade my sense of humour and leave a large part of my brain at home. I am sure all the people reading this who drive or have driven for other companies are highly articulate, witty and intelligent people, but it just so happened that most of the people I worked with at this particular company, at this particular time, were complete dumbasses. After a couple of weeks of driving for Data Express, I had my route around Oxford and nearby Cheltenham sorted out and I could easily finish all my deliveries by lunch time. This meant I could spend the afternoons doing just about anything I wanted as long as I take the van back to the depot by 6pm ready to load for the next day. Generally I would stop in a backstreet and lay down on a piece of foam in the back of the van smoking cigarettes and reading Lonely Planet books about faraway exotic lands. I would then invariably daydream my way into a divine afternoon snooze, with
the alarm on my Casio digital watch set to wake me up at 5pm. Not so impressed by the 60 hours a week now are you? One afternoon I was rudely awakened from my slumber by a call on the radio. Sharon, who operated the radio in the office, was also from Oxford and had the same colloquial accent I did (car park is pronounced “cah pahk”), but when she spoke on the radio she adopted the very poshsounding and clichéd “sing-song” tone so beloved of all English radio and telephone operators since World War Two, the tone rising and falling randomly without purpose or reason. “Express Base to Victor One, Victor One come in, over.” It sounded like we were in the middle of the Battle of Britain. I scrambled to the front of the van, started the engine and put the heater fan on full blast to provide plenty of busy-sounding background noise before responding in a slow English upper-class drawl, doing my best impersonation of an experienced and unflappable public school boy Spitfire pilot. “Express Base this is Victor One, go ahead, over.” (Victor One meant nothing more glamorous than van number one in case you’re wondering.) I was still half asleep and part of me was expecting orders to attack a German bomber formation over the English Channel, but no.
thoughts together. This was a new customer, and from the name I guessed it was probably another computer company run by young techno twerps who spent every day giggling over naughty jokes about hard drives. “Express Base, this is Victor One, roger, will proceed to Cheltenham Trading Estate for pick up at Wirecell before return, over”. As Sharon acknowledged my transmission I fastened my seat belt and headed back to Cheltenham, the faraway tropical lands of my dreams shunted rudely out of my mind for the damp, gray miserable reality that was England. Twenty minutes later I was in Cheltenham Trading Estate looking for Wirecell. There was no board listing the tenants of the estate or where they might be found, so I drove slowly up
and down between the rollershuttered units looking for the name. The light was fading and it was now raining hard, so it was difficult to see clearly through the windscreen. There was nobody around in the open to ask, and I didn’t really want to get out of the van in the rain unless I had to, so I stuck to my search. I knew the estate wasn’t very big anyway so it couldn’t take too long. But I couldn’t find it. I was just about to get out of the van and run inside one of the units to ask someone when I saw a sign that made me stop in my tracks and slowly shake my head in simultaneous realisation and disbelief. I picked up the radio. “Express Base this is Victor One, come in, over.” Sharon put down her doughnut. “Victor One this is Express Base, go ahead, over.”
I became “slightly annoyed Spitfire pilot”. “Express Base this is Victor One, I am at Cheltenham Trading Estate. Kindly repeat name of customer for pick up, over.” There was a short pause while Sharon checked her notes. “Victor One this is Express Base. Customer is Wirecell, repeat, Wirecell, over.” I breathed a heavy sigh, bit my lip and slipped completely out of character. “Sharon, do you mean ‘Y-S-L’, as in f***ing ‘Yves Saint Laurent’?” Another momentary silence then, “Yeah that’s what I said, isn’t it? Wirecell.” Dumbass.
To read more by Eamonn Sadler go to www.eamonnsadler.com
PUB BOARD
COMPETITION Sms the funniest thing you can think of that you would find on a pub blackboard sign. The funniest entry gets two tickets to the Bali Comedy Club, courtesy of Bali Comedy Club.
0821 1194 3084
“Victor One, before return to base proceed to Cheltenham Trading Estate, pick up at Wirecell, repeat Wirecell, over.” I slowly got my
Congratulations to Theo B. for sending in this issue's winning phrase, pictured left. Enjoy the Bali Comedy Club!
For the Macet Mind
is made possible by:
Across 1. Make less simple (10) 7. All feet (anag) (7) 8. Clean (eg chimney) (5) 10. State of unconsciousness (4) 11. One who travels to work (8) 13. Investigation - inspection (6) 15. Symptom of a cold (6) 17. Lower (8) 18. Bill of fare (4) 21. Marx brother (5) 22. In the black (7) 23. Area of the South Bank below Tower Bridge (10)
DOWN 1. Attractiveness (5) 2. Nourishing fluid (4) 3. Liquid applied to skin (6) 4. Vertically hinged window (8) 5. Play scene (7) 6. Worker at forge (10) 9. In(de)finite duration (10) 12. Treasure handed down in family (8) 14. Arbiter (7) 16. Toxic substance (6) 19. Adversary (5) 20. Add (4)
Answers in the next edition!
ANSWERS FOR EDITION 36 ACROSS — 5. Astronomy 8. Hebe 9. Triangle 10. Detour 11. Device 13. Acidic 15. Dinghy 16. Aphelion 18. Lilt 19. Compasses
DOWN — 1. Asteroid 2. Crater 3. Unkind 4. Omen 6. Telescope 7. Black hole 12. Van Allen 14. Crisps 15. Danish
14
Art
Museum Pasifika Exhibition: Miguel Covarrubias October 6th – December 15th 2013 Miguel Covarrubias’ name is not one that is seldom heard. A Mexican painter, drawing artist, author and art historian, Miguel lived in Bali in the 1930s. This time, Bali has a chance to view some of Miguel’s amazing works. His book, Island of Bali is still in print seven decades after its publication in 1937. Museum Pasifika in Nusa Dua is home to Miguel Covarrubias’ artworks since October 6th 2013, officially opened by the President of Mexico, Enrique Nieto. Covarrubias’ 115 drawings, paintings and photographs are on display at Museum Pasifika until December 15th 2013. Visit the museum at the Bali Tourism Development Corporation complex in Nusa Dua or call (0361) 774 935.
4th – 17th December 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT
Charity
Indonesian Wall Hangings & Tapestries at Bridges Bali November 1st 2013 – January 31st 2014 Bridges in Ubud is showcasing Indonesian beauty in colours and texture in “Indonesian Wall Hangings & Tapestries”. This exhibition will run from November 1st 2013 to January 31st 2014. These beaded and sequined tapestries are one-of-a-kind pieces and are available for purchase. Proceeds of the exhibition will be appropriated for Yayasan Kemanusiaan, by the John Fawcett Foundation, which assists needy people in Indonesia with medical needs. Visit www. bridgesbali.com or call (0361) 970 095 for more information on the exhibition. Music
Soul Shine Festival Bali Fri, 27 Dec 2013 – Sat, 28 Dec 2013 Location: Green School Bali On December 27 and 28 the Green School Bali will hold their Soulshine Festival — a music and environmental festival dedicated to sustainability in Bali. Musician, poet and social activist Michael Franti will be performing on the main stage, and the festival will also feature speakers, films, morning yoga, an eco kid’s zone and numerous other fun-filled activities. Funds raised during the festival will benefit the Bumi Sehat birthing clinics as well as the Green School’s scholarship fund, which provides free education for Indonesian children. Ticket prices vary for children and adults; visit their website and get yours now! Website: www.soulshinefestibal. com Health
Italian Fashion at Ganesha Gallery December 23rd 2013 On December 23rd 2013 until January 15th 2014, The Ganesha gallery at the Four Seasons Resort in Jimbaran Bay presents an art exhibition geared more towards the high-fashion industry. The gallery will be showcasing an Italian fashion line, titled ‘Recollection by Bellanova’. December 23rd, opening day of the exhibition, will feature a cocktail evening, exhibition of Belladona’s special line, and a meet-and-greet with the designer, Ivan Bellanova. This up-and-comer’s creations are heavily influenced by Bali’s lush and vibrant colours. Take a gander at the collection by visiting Ganesha gallery. For more details, call (0361) 701 010.
Jazz Cafe Ubud 17th Anniversary December 7 th 2013 Musical acts from the local and international platforms have come and made our nights in Ubud that much more fun and vibrant at Jazz Cafe over the years. On their 17th year, Jazz Cafe will host an anniversary party with top-shelf musicians lighting up the stage; such as Jim Larkin, the Ambassador of modern blues, R&B and soul music. This show will be a continuation of a series on the History of Soul Music. This anniversary night will also be enlivened by The Saucy Soul Band, Nancy Ponto and The Bali Angels. The event will take place on December 7 th 2013 starting at 8pm. Jazz Cafe is located on Jalan Sukma, Ubud. Call (0361) 976 594 or e-mail info@jazzcafebali.com for more details on the event.
retreat’s venue is at the Jiwa Damai Bali; an organic garden and retreat center near Ubud. A package deal is offered for Tai Chi and meditation enthusiasts in which a five day (four nights) accommodation and vegetarian meals are included, along with 18 Tai Chi & Qigong classes, for US$499 per person. Tai Chi Bali Retreat will be held from December 5th to December 9th 2013. Call 0812 36467 324 or e-mail info@taichibali.com for details on the package and event. www. taichibali.com
Tai Chi Bali is inviting you to a retreat for the soul. The fiveday retreat will introduce you to Qigong and Tranquility in Motion as well as the philosophy of Tao and Stillness Meditation. The
Free for Member ~ Guest Rp. 250.000 Attractive Raffle Draw Prizes. Book now to ensure your place. RSVP to Gede Juwena gede@ skalbali.com or call 7840212 Email: gede@skalbali.com Website: www.skalbali.com
Kids Event Bali Business Club Referral Lunch on Tuesdays Tue, 19 Nov 2013 – Tue, 31 Dec 2013 Location: Little Tree, Jl. Sunset 112x What's next in BBC Meeting? Yes....we have topic "How to save our nature and protect our waters quality for better life?" Bali Business Club invite team JANMA as our guest speaker to share more about “Developing Watershed Management”.
Bali Kids Fest December 7 th 2013 A month-long celebration, the Bali Kids Fest is coming to an end on December 7 th 2013. This last day of the festival will be the cherry on top, featuring kids’ musical performance by Lollypop Preschool and Sekolah Lentera Kasih. This event will take place at the Bali Beachwalk on the Fountain Stage. Get your children to experience the fun by coming to Beachwalk Bali on December 7 th 2013. Beachwalk is located on Jalan Pantai Kuta. You can call (0361) 8464 888 to know more about the event or go to www. beachwalkbali.com Business & Networking
Tai Chi Bali Retreat December 5th – December 9th 2013
Skal Annual Ball Friday, 6 December 2013 Location: Ayana Resort and Spa
JANMA is incorporated association and one of their activities is to develop a watershed management program for Ayung River supported by CSR Aqua – Danone Group. They will share about their programs and activities in our Bali Business Club Referral Lunch Meeting on Tuesday, 19 November 2013 (12.30 - 01.30 pm) at meeting room Little Tree Bali, Sunset Road 112X Kuta. Let’s support developing watershed to restore and protect our waters quality for better life. Rsvp. & info please contact Dayu (0361) 7909697 or dayu@be-do.org Website: www.be-do.org Seminar & Workshops Colleena Shakti Dance Retreat in Bali 7 th December – 14th December 2013 Desa Seni Resort, Bali (www.desaseni.com) The second Shakti Dance Retreat: INDIAN INFUSION. 25 Hours of professional dance training Website: www.colleenashakti.com
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BALI EXPAT ◆ 4th – 17th December 2013
Jobs Looking for staff for company in Bali, Jimbaran area- driver full time- call 081338732993. Also female only- personal assistant with internet skills- send cv with picture to babaswell@yahoo.com. Must be available immediately.
Others Rare Indonesian Gems, Jewels by Irwan, multi-award-winning designer (including 1st prize for design in Paris). Fossilized Coral, rare Blue Amber, natural “Keshi” South Sea pearls, Pancawarna Agate, Chrysocolla, and many more. Hotel Tugu Bali (in the lobby), Jl. Pantai Batu Bolong, Canggu. Tel: 0811824302 For Sale, rare, specialized, and detailed books. Pictorial Guide to Indonesian Reef Fishes Part 1-3, By Rudie Kutier & Takamasa Tonozuka. 3000 photos, fish size, location, Latin name, description, depth, etc. 1 million rupiah for one set. asksalvatore@gmail.com WANTED: loving, active home for 3yo Golden Retriever. Loves the beach. Needs daily exercise. House trained but lives outside. Will ride scooter/car. Desexed and injections up to date. We’re leaving Bali, would like to take her but next destination unknown. Active long term/permanent residents only please. 0811 385 5578.
Classifieds are still FREE! Send in your classifieds to: ads@baliexpat.biz Next issue deadline: 11TH DECEMBER, 2013
Have something to sell? Looking for something to buy? Looking for staff? Selling property? Or need a place to live? Why not place your classified ad with Bali Expat! Your classified will be placed once for 2 weeks online and once in our printed version which has a circulation of 12,500 copies bi weekly. Classifieds: free of charge (50 words max). Send in your classifieds to: ads@baliexpat.biz
For rent: furnished apartment Bali-1br+/1babeach close/surf/shopping/nightclubs. -available now. Kitchen. 2 student ok,aircon,hot water, color tv, cable, wifi, dvd player, dvds. 40mil rp total/ 10 months or 28mil rp total/6 months or peak season dec or jan 9mil rp total/per month.call: 082147459912 or email: babaswell@yahoo. com Freehold Villa for SALE in Kerobokan, Close to Banjar Pengubengan Kangin / 2,5 are, pool, 3-bedrooms/AC, hot water, Indovision, 3500 W; partly furnished. Price directly from owner: 3,0 Billion IDR. Call 081999770014 after 6pm please. (image in folder : kerobokan 3 billion)
Services
New internet service provider forthcoming on the island, Visit us on Facebook to find out more: www.facebook.com/geckoid Free Advertising for Not-for-profit companies: The International Wanderer aims to provide expatriates with links to worldwide expatriate communities for people living and working abroad. If you have an expatriate community that you would like to list on our website, please complete the form. It is currently free (although you may wish to voluntarily contribute to costs) for a not-for-profit Expat Community to submit your listing which is valid for a year. http://www. theinternationalwanderer.com/expatcommunities/submit-an-expatriatecommunity-listing
Property For sale to serious buyers. Land to become a villa complex at Cukang Kawung Bandung, 2.8 ha with a plan of 73 villa units, IMB and documents CLEAR. A 3-floor villa sample already available on jalan boulevard. Deal directly with the owner. Call: RYO,081322 702 322, by email : asuryap@ yahoo.com For sale: Sanur, Bali - BEACHFRONT LAND - $99,900usd total! approx- 4.7 are total, 30 years leasehold, buildable, vacant, unobstructed ocean and island views.north Sanur. email: jimtak43@yahoo.com House for sale in Singaraja village, near Lovina beach, rural atmosphere. 6,200 m2, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathroom, 1 kitchen, with large yard. Email suliasa12@yahoo.co.id. Call Kadek 085238181700.
Santa Fe provides moving services – International, domestic, local & office, real estate, property management & maintenance, orientations, visa & immigration and home contents insurance. Call us +62 811 889 2445 or Email: sales@santaferelo.co.id and visit our website www.SantaFeRelo.com for more information
Hi all. Just settled here from Holland as a photographer. Visit http://www. crowdphotographer.com/. I do portraits, weddings, products...you name it
St. Lukas fresh new jewellery designer in Bali, specializes in custom-made jewelries, one of a kind and does not make mass amounts of one design. Made to order. Please contact Leo: 081805684044.
Medical evacuation health and life insurance. Let us diagnose your needs. Contact Paul Beale: Mobile: +62 816 137 0663 Office: +62 21 522 0990 E-mail: paulbeale@gms-financial.com
Wedding Photographer destination based in Bali, Indonesia. Dedot Photography Phone: 0361 8751758, 081338751758 Address: Jalan Mertajaya No 27 Denpasar E-mail: info@dedotphotography.com Web: www.dedotphotography.com Blog: www.dedotphotographyblog.com FB: www.facebook.com/dedotphotography Twitter: @dedotphotograph Interested in learning Bahasa Indonesia or Bahasa Bali? I'm native Indonesian & Balinese speaker who had been studying & living in Melbourne, Australia now back living in Bali & teaching :) Contact 081237886506 Travel Transportation: Need any Transportation in Bali island and island surround it include Lombok island. Just call 6285205363888 or send your e-mail lxf1zr@ windowslive.com
Experience staying at a beautiful original antique Javanese Joglo house in the foothills of Mount Merapi. Joglo Ago is a three double-bedroom villa with gardens perfect for a weekend retreat from the hustle and bustle of city life. In close proximity to Mount Merapi and Borobudur Temple. Visit www.jogloago.com for more information or call Indah 08123563626.
Personal Looking for new companion for the holidays. Men or women, all welcome. I can be your tour guide around Bali. If you prefer, we can also get out of town, find some quiet place for the holidays. We can share travelling stories. E-mail me stacybrown0301@gmail. com
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4th – 17th December 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT