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BALI EXPAT­­ ­◆ 9th – 22nd October 2013


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Indonesia's Largest Expatriate Readership



33rd Edition


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9th – 22nd October 2013





Mobile: (+62) 81 116 9234 Jl. Dewi Sartika 1BB (across Harris Tuban Hotel)


9th – 22nd October 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT­­­

dear readers Saraswati, which was originally set up by innovative Janet DeNeefe as a healing project in response to the first Bali bombing. And this festival has come a long way, with 2013 welcoming international bestselling UK author, Sebastian Faulks (Birdsong, Devil May Care), Lionel Shriver (We Need to Talk about Kevin), Lonely Planet co-founder Tony Wheeler and many more. These international award winners will be joined by Indonesia’s most successful writers, including Goenawan Mohamad, Ayu Utami, Garin Nugroho and dozens more. This year will also host an exclusive screening of Daniel Ziv’s documentary about the lives of three Jakarta street musicians; Jalanan—a highly anticipated musical documentary—one not to miss!

33rd Edition | 9th – 22nd October 2013 Editor in Chief Angela Richardson Editorial Assistant Gabriella Panjaitan Management Edo Frese Sales Erna Mastini Distribution Dian Mardianingsih Graphics Frederick Ng Finance & Admin Pertiwi Gianto Putri Lini Verawaty


t is that time of the year again, when the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival graces our presence in the cool hills of Ubud. This year this event is set to be even bigger and better than the events of the past, as we enter its tenth appearance. From October 11–15, a staggering 170 writers, performers, artists, musicians and visionaries will be speaking and performing in Ubud to literary fans and like-minded individuals of all cultures and walks of life.

Putting on such a large-scale, successful literary event is no easy affair, so hats off to the staff of Ubud Writers and Readers Festival, 2013. Thank you for your hard work in bringing the pieces of the puzzle together so that we are able to share stories, discussions, workshops, empowerment, ideas, music, laughter and friendships. And to all of you who still read in today’s busy times, thank you!

The Ubud Writers and Readers Festival has become Southeast Asia’s most renowned literary event and this year’s theme is ‘From Darkness to Light’, a beautiful theme which could also be interpreted as hope. The Ubud Writers and Readers Festival is the major annual project of the not-forprofit foundation, the Yayasan Mudra Swari


Never forget that reading is a window to the world.

Angela Richardson

Bi-Weekly E-Newsletter Scan the barcode to receive Bali and Jakarta Expat's free bi-weekly e-newsletter!

Contributors Stephanie Brookes Bill Dalton Karen Davis Justin Rayboun Eamonn Sadler Paul V. Walters Editorial Enquiries Circulation Enquiries Subscription

in this 33rd issue: Kerinci Calling ................................................................................................ 4 Paul Spencer Sochaczewski: Redheads ....................................................... 6 Meet the Expat: Judy Chapman .................................................................... 8 Faces of Bali: Ketut The Hair and Beauty Stylist ......................................... 9 Writing by Kids and for Kids ........................................................................ 10 Writing Words that Strain and Fail to Rhyme ............................................. 12 Dancing with the Bear ................................................................................. 13 Events and Classifieds ............................................................................ 14–15 Events

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BALI EXPAT­­ ­◆ 9th – 22nd October 2013



9th – 22nd October 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT­­­

travel: sumatra

Kerinci Calling

words and photos by Justin Rayboun


umatra; while some may not know where it is, others conjure up thoughts of dark, unexplored jungles sitting on both sides of the Equator. The island of Sumatra is more than just an island; it’s a monster, being the sixth largest island in the world and the largest island in Indonesia. Compared to neighbouring Java, whose population is over 130 million, Sumatra’s population is sparse, at just under 50 million, so there is breathing room. Sumatra is sprinkled with volcanoes, thirty-five to be exact, and all sitting on the Barison Mountain range in the western half of the island. One of these volcanoes is a super volcano, Toba, with the largest crater lake in the world, aptly named Lake Toba. It is in this mountain range that the largest amount of Indonesian coffee and tea are grown. This mountain range is also home to the highest volcano in Indonesia, Mount Kerinci, with an elevation of 3,805 metres – something for the bucket list. Mount Kerinci sits south of the Equator, in the Kerinci Seblat

National Park, mainly in the province of Jambi. The park is an important home to hundreds of species of flora and fauna. Some of the most notable species are the endangered Sumatran Tiger and Sumatran Rhinoceros, which are endemic and not likely to be around next century if things don’t drastically change. This is the most important location in Sumatra for the Sumatran Tiger, and believed to have the largest population on the island; Leuser National Park in the North also has a population thriving. Kerinci is also home to other beautiful animals, such as the tapir, sun bear, and several species of primate. One of the loudest primates are the gibbons (siamang), which live in the treetops and can leap up to distances of 50 feet between trees. They are the songbirds of the primate family, capable of being heard almost two miles away through the dense forest canopy. The Siamang is also endangered, they are suffering from a shrinking forest due to illegal logging for palm oil plantations, and hunting for the

pet trade. That being said, they are still easy to locate in the park, just listen for their calls in the morning and evenings. Kerinci is a famous spot for birders, who come to see many of the endemics, some previously thought to be extinct only until recently, such as the Sumatran Cochoa, Schneider’s Pitta, Salvadores Pheasant, and over 300 other species. Of course, here you can see many different types of hornbill, so big that you can hear them soaring above the canopy like a small airplane. If you’re a flower buff, you will also be overjoyed to know that here you can find numerous orchid species and the tallest flower in the world, the Rafflesia. To spot this, you may need to enlist a guide, or better yet, befriend a knowledgeable local. The park has so much to offer in way of flora and fauna, it is simply too much to write about here. But I must mention the myth of Orang Pendek (short person), a small bipedal creature that supposedly runs around the forest and has really only ever been spotted by local farmers and other locals


who enter the forest. Obtaining a photograph of such a thing would surely make a trip of a lifetime. Hiking to the summit of Mount Kerinci will put you at the highest point in Sumatra and on top of the highest volcano of Indonesia. Kerinci is still active, with some rumbling last year followed by black smoke. From the top you will feel the true height of this massive mountain, with beautiful views of the surrounding topography and the Indian Ocean. Neighbouring Lake Tujuh offers a beautiful view, best seen right as the sun is rising with colours painting the sky. Mount Kerinci actually straddles Jambi and West Sumatra, but the trail starts in Jambi. Some say it is possible to hike to the top in one day, but you would indeed have to start before sunrise and return

through the forest after dark. Walking in the forest after dark is fun and a great way to spot owls and frogmouths, but not advisable after hiking 12+ hours. Taking a few days to hike and camp is the only way to truly feel the beauty and experience what Kerinci is all about. Most hikers choose to leave early and hike straight through to shelter two or shelter three, the latter being just above the tree line and offering the best morning views straight from your tent; it’s cold at night so a sleeping mat and proper dress is required. There is a water source at both shelter two and three. After the first night, most wake before sunrise and hike the remaining hours to the summit for sunrise, and then make the arduous journey back. But if time is on your side, take three or more days to hike up, spending more time in the lower forest, as this is the only way to spot the wildlife and see some of the rarest birds in Indonesia. The jumping off point is a small village named, Kersik Tua in the Kayu Aro Province of Jambi. This is about an eight-hour mini bus ride from the major city of Padang in West Sumatra. Padang can be easily reached via air, or alternatively, if you enjoy long Indonesian bus rides one can


BALI EXPAT­­ ­◆ 9th – 22nd October 2013

take a 20+ hour bus ride from Sumatra’s capital city, Medan. When in Padang and arranging your minibus to Kersik Tua, tell the driver to drop you at Pak Subandi Homestay, the driver will know the place. Pak Subandi is one of many homestays in Kersik Tua, but his home-cooked meals and knowledge of the mountain make his place the best choice. Pak Subandi is also a very knowledgeable guide and birder, and so are his sons. As of January 2013, a guide is not compulsory, but there are stories of people getting forever lost on the mountain. So, if you’re not experienced with the Indonesian forest, hire a guide. Mount Kerinci is the main attraction to this region, but there are many other places in the area to explore; more mountains, waterfalls, lakes, and some of the best remaining forest in Indonesia. So, if you are looking for adventure and enjoy hiking, camping and wildlife, Kerinci is calling. ■

LOGISTICS PADANG * By air: Minangkabau International Airport * Sleep: Hotel Tiga Tiga, Jalan Veteran, +62 (0) 75122173 KERSIK TUA * By mini bus or taxi: ask hotel for arrangements. * Sleep: Pak Subandi Homestay HP: +62 (0) 81274114273, +62 (0) 748357009, MOUNT KERINCI * Sleep: Tent * Permit: 20,000 Rupiah ($2) * Eat: Pack lots of food and water * First Aid * Flashlight

Justin Rayboun Justin Rayboun is an American surfer, freelance photographer & sometimes writer. He loves wildlife, especially birds, and currently calls Indonesia his home.


9th – 22nd October 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT­­­

expat entrepreneur If you had to name your favourite writers, who would they be? Tom Wolfe. Carl Hiaasen. Joseph Heller. Simon Schama. Tom Robbins. Bill Bryson. Paul Theroux (fiction only), Graham Greene. John Updike. Malcolm Gladwell. Wolfe’s Bonfire of the Vanities and Heller’s Catch-22 are black and funny and real.

interested in tribal rights, rainforest destruction, and greedy politicians.

How did you initially get interested in writing about Indonesia? It was a natural evolution of interests. Funny thing about writers, lots of them are (at least at the beginning) rather shy and introspective, and writing is a way of going public while still semi-hiding. But it takes courage to put your stuff out there, particularly personal stuff, since it’s very easy for critics (and everyone who buys a newspaper is a critic) to turn the page, or worse, say “that’s rubbish”.

Is the book only about orangutans? All the characters have red or reddish (or henna-tinged) hair. It’s about tribal rights. Rainforest destruction. Fraudulent scientists. Big-ego but naïve international conservation efforts. Orangutan’s similarities (and dissimilarities) with humans. Sex. Greed. I hope it’s funny.

Is there any other book like it? Catch-22, but in a different context. One reviewer wrote, “Redheads does for the struggle to save the rainforests of Borneo what Catch-22 did for the struggle to stay alive in WWII.”

We have to deal with it. Also, there just might be a way to develop, let’s say, a “deep ecology” relationship with nature. Which field of research do you prefer? The get-your-hands-dirty kind. Recently I went on a trip in northern Thailand with a bunch of Thai palaeontologists looking for coprolites - fossilized dung of freshwater sharks that lived 200 million years ago. What are you reading at the moment? A bunch of adventure novels. I really admire any writer who can just tell a good story. But the best book I’ve read so far this year was Tom Wolfe’s Back to Blood.

What did you go through researching the book? The usual rainforest experiences - wonder, boredom, lousy food,

What writing project are you working on now? Ah, another Big Book. Sharing the Journey, a writer’s guide book on

too much mixed alcohol (rice wine, Guinness, moonshine, brandy), discomfort, athlete’s foot, leeches, snakes, rain, more rain. I learned that some things are so serious and depressing that you have to laugh. Also, that sometimes fiction is a better way of alerting and influencing people to problems than often boring and self-serving non-fiction. Just tell a good story!

how to tell their personal story based on my writing workshops. I’ve also been working for 30 years on a new novel, but won’t jinx it by discussing it publically.


Redheads by Bill Dalton


aul Spencer Sochaczewski was born in 1947 in Brooklyn and grew up in suburban New Jersey. His earliest memory is climbing on to the kitchen counter, then the stove and then atop the refrigerator, pretending it was Mount Everest. As a child he liked baseball, writing and making his mother worry. Paul spent years developing international campaigns for ad agencies and NGOs like WWF and International Osteoporosis Foundation, while simultaneously pursuing his writing career, publishing Soul of the Tiger (1995), Redheads (2000), Sultan and the Mermaid Queen (2009) and An Inordinate Fondness for Beetles (2012). Paul now runs writing workshops in more than 20 countries.

Did you have an epiphany in your youth that foretold your life as a writer? I realized I wasn’t good enough to play pro baseball and would need an alternative job, preferably one where I could wear jeans and t-shirts. My early preparation for a life of writing was everything I experienced while living in the suburbs in the 1950s. One formative experience I remember was how in primary school we had drills crouching under our desks in the event of a Russian nuclear attack. It wasn’t until much later that I started to question the value of such an exercise. One of my main motivations spurring me to write in later years was the environmental destruction I was seeing around me.

When did you first know that you had writing talent? I wrote my first play at age eight about flying bears, aliens and buried treasure. The first book I ever read without pictures was The Wonderful Flight to the Mushroom Planet by Eleanor Cameron. I guess I inherited the science fiction gene from my father, who introduced me to the greats - Frederick Pohl, Theodore Sturgeon, Isaac Asimov and Robert Sheckley.

What are your hobbies/ interests? Collecting unusual Ganesha images, cooking, gardening (especially tomatoes), Italian opera. What’s your educational background? I have a PhD in life experiences. I hold a BA in Psychology from George Washington University, whose famous alumni include Alex Baldwin, L. Ron Hubbard, Jackie O.


When was your first visit to Indonesia? In 1971 while living in Singapore and working as Creative Director of an ad agency. They sent me for a short time assignment in Indonesia. Since then I have visited many dozens of the country’s islands, including many obscure eastern Indonesian islands. Ever been to Aru, Bacan, Kei, Misool, Wakatobi and Halmahera? What inspired you to write Redheads? I left Washington, D.C., where I went to college to go to Sarawak to work with the U.S. Peace Corps. I lived with tribal communities. I’m perhaps the only international conservationist to have hands-on experience in slashing and burning the rainforest. That’s how I got

What revelations about people did you come away with? People are people, some good, some evil, most somewhere in between, just trying to get by and hoping for a lucky break when they can find one. There does seem to be a law of inverse generosity. The less people have in life the more willing they are to share it with you. Is there a thread running through all your books? That ego and greed are dangerous. They are inevitable.

Any words you want to leave us with? Be very careful of the big international NGOs. They don’t need your cash and will waste much of it. Give money and emotional support instead to the small local NGOs in whatever domain you are interested in: battered women, literacy, the arts, animal welfare, conservation, child labour, peace. The small guys have passion and get things done. Where can people learn more about your work? My website: ■

Bill Dalton Bill Dalton has been writing travel features, book reviews, interviews and guidebooks about Indonesia for more than 40 years, starting with his groundbreaking Indonesia Handbook first published in 1976. Bill lives on a farm with his Indonesian family deep in the countryside of west Bali.

BALI EXPAT­­ ­◆ 9th – 22nd October 2013



9th – 22nd October 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT­­­

meet the expat


The Author of “My Singapore Lover”, a contemporary love story in which Singapore is the main character.

by Karen Davis

Was My Singapore Lover inspired by personal experience? This is definitely a work of fiction, however I have personally experienced aspects in the story, including the martial arts journey, living in hotel suites, and Singapore of course. I wrote the first draft in three weeks around seven years ago when I was living in Singapore. It is a contemporary love story set in Singapore, the story is told mostly from a hotel suite over a twenty-four hour period and I have definitely had my fair share of hotel suites—in Singapore I was the Editor in Chief for Spa Asia magazine and travelled the world reporting on spa openings. It was an enriching time. Who are your literary influences? I am passionate about Haruki Murakami, a beautiful contemporary Japanese writer and Paulo Coelho’s Eleven Minutes is one of my favourites. Right now I am reading a novel titled Beautiful Ruins by Jess Walters—it’s stunning. I’m more into film, though and my biggest dream is for one of my novels to be made into an edgy film. Well, one can only dream!

Is this your first publication? This is my first novel, but my fifth book. My first four books were non-fiction that was a completely different journey. I knew from the age of eight years old that I wanted to write a novel, but like all of us, have been on many detours. It took quite a bit of focus and determination to make this novel happen. What is your background? Where did you grow up? I grew up in Byron Bay, Australia, a similar melting pot to Bali in terms of being a small community of many cultures, beliefs, religions, creative types, raw foodies, yogis—and both places offer a more relaxed and free lifestyle. My upbringing was typically alternative and consisted of trips to Bali and ashrams in India. Well, I tried my hardest to be ‘straight’ and wear a suit and carry a briefcase, but never succeeded in that. I did attend University in Melbourne for a while, but ended up working for The Melbourne Herald on the fashion pages, as I was impatient to get into the workforce. I started my own spa brand with my ex-fiancé when I was 23 years old and we opened spa stores around Australia—a

actually decide to live here and can be a reluctant expat in some ways. However, my day job involves lots of travel throughout Southeast Asia, setting up spas and creating bespoke treatment and retail concepts.


very inspiring chapter of my life. After I published my first book, everything took off and this is when I moved to Southeast Asia and started writing about spas. What brought you to Bali? I first came to Bali back in the late seventies when there was only one western hotel. Over the last decade I have written and photographed two of my spa books in Bali and in 2012 completed my yoga teaching training course—so Bali has been a big part of my creative life. Last year you could find me tapping away at my novel from various organic cafés around Ubud, the perfect setting for any writer. I never expected to live here, but Bali has been my home base since I came here on assignment for a magazine to do a piece on Karma Resorts, and they kidnapped me to set up their spa brand, which is what I have been doing for the last five years in Bali—but I didn’t

What is a Spa Curator? That’s what I call myself because I didn't want to be a Director or a Consultant—it’s not me at all. I resonate with Curator, as it feels more creative. I have been working in the wellness industry for twenty years now —writing about spas, creating natural products and working with architects and interior designers to dream up beautiful spa concepts. More recently I have learned about the business side of spas—so in many ways I now feel like I have a more holistic understanding of the spa business. It hasn't been easy for a right-brain thinker, like myself, to learn about the financials, but it’s been a very rewarding journey. I now have great respect for both the business and the creative and understand the two cannot exist without each other. Overall I have created around twenty spas around the world including Australia, Europe, India, Thailand and right now I am developing spas in the Middle East that is a fascinating experience (a new backdrop for another novel perhaps?). What are your other passions? I am addicted to Pilates! It’s my sanctuary. I also love martial arts that I feature strongly in My

Singapore Lover (the protagonist goes on a journey of learning martial arts that helps her grow). I am into healthy living, love travelling and contemporary art galleries, but my biggest passion is film. I love Asian directors, Deepa Mehtaand, Wong Kar-wai, as well as Sofia Coppola’s work. Do you have another book planned? My Singapore Lover is my first novel and a humble beginning (I hope reviewers are kind to me). Whatever happens from here, I feel so blessed to have come this far and get a publishing deal. My next novel (which I actually wrote first), is set in the Himalayas and is more of an epic mystical– adventure–romance with subtle spiritual tones. There’s a little bit of martial arts in this second novel, as well as this modality has personally been an important part of my own growth. Will you be at the upcoming Readers and Writers Festival? Yes! Drop by Three Monkeys Café in Ubud on Sunday 13th October at 4pm and all will be revealed —a free event with drinks and refreshments provided. ■

Thanks Judy!I look forward to seeing you at the Readers and Writers Festival! ‘My Singapore Lover’ is available at Periplus Bookstores and will be available online at Amazon and iBooks.

Karen Davis Chilean-born American, Karen Davis is a journalist, artist and art therapist. Formerly a NYC fashion designer, she has been coming to Bali since 1979 and now resides here.


BALI EXPAT­­ ­◆ 9th – 22nd October 2013

faces of bali




The Hair and Beauty Stylist words & photo by Stephanie Brookes

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etut is 27 years old and owns a local wedding and hair stylist salon in the back streets of Ubud, Bali. Her little purple shop has been her only source of income for three years now. A fortunate meeting with a lovely elderly couple dining at a hotel restaurant she was waitressing at led to her dream coming true. This lovely man asked her, “What do you want to do with your life? Do you want to study?” to which Ketut replied, “Yes, I would love to study. I have always wanted to be a make-up artist.” She knew what was involved to become qualified—two million Rupiah and 10 months of training in a beauty school in Gianyar, learning formal make-up application and massage therapy.

When she returned to work for her next shift there was an envelope with her name on it. She opened it and it simply read 'You must go to school. Please find enclosed two million Rupiah' and the rest is history. The couple had already flown out, back to North America, and Ketut didn’t get to thank her benefactors. She remembered their conversation and remembered

speaking to them of “a promise” if her situation ever changed. They must have sensed she was a girl with true conviction and a real desire to achieve. As she held that money, a fleeting thought crossed her mind, “I could really do with a phone upgrade," however she dismissed that quickly because, as she told me, “A promise is a promise." Her wedding salon is a thriving business and in her best month Ketut has had takings of seven million. In the busy wedding season, which is 2–3 months before Galungan, the salon is a hive of activity. For a complete makeover (boy and girl), wedding costume hire, accessories and hair styling, the cost is two million. Her husband is a gardener and they have a three-year-old child. Ketut is very happy and feels her life is blessed. The man’s name was Mr. Loren Ceder from Seattle and one day she feels he will get to hear of her success. ■

Stephanie Brookes Stephanie Brookes is a freelance travel writer and will be covering our Faces of Bali column for David Metcalf, our regular columnist, who is away for one month.

Meditation Made Simple™ is completely non-religious. The benefits of meditation practice include happiness, a calm mind, stress-free living, regulated blood pressure, stable emotions, control of anger and freedom from anxiety. Improved focus and concentration as a result of meditation create a stronger immune system. This leads to better health, complete relaxation of the nervous system and improved flow of life energy in the body.

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9th – 22nd October 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT­­­

improving literacy




hildren learn words and meanings first, but quickly want to express themselves in the things that they do in their own writing. Yet one in four children at age 11 cannot do this satisfactorily. The article looks at some simple ways to turn your son or daughter into a famous writer by using the concepts used to make great books, plays, poems, songs and films—start with a great idea and develop the story using story boards to sequence the story in discrete steps or stages.

History of Good Writing

The best writers of old used the same hooks in their writing that the best writers still use today. We call it a storyline. It can be a true story or fiction. But it must be well written and novel, even where it builds upon an old recipe.

The best recipes are love stories, dramatic events like wars and disasters, and, for kids, fantasies. The best of each genre has tragedy or comedy, sometimes both, such as in Shakespeare, as the central mechanism for telling the story. So how do we learn to write well from childhood? Easy. Practice, practice practice—and most importantly, find yourself a good coach because the mechanics of writing in an interesting style comes by passing your work through an experienced eye and ear. Listening to your work being torn apart by a critic is the bane of the writing profession. So best employ your own critic in-house from the start—be it an older sibling or parent. They will help you to work through your main idea and provide a critical eye to test out that which works and does not. Reworking the idea, then the text—again and again is

the answer for most good writers who get published, which is often the pinnacle for many writers. Making money, let alone a living, from your writing is not even a dream for the majority. Not only should what you write read well, it’s best if it also sounds good to listen to—thereby making the transition from the page to play and screen easier to do. Ancient Greek writers had to contend with their plays being performed in amphitheatres set in the countryside or in towns with townsfolk distracting the wandering eye. The best Greek writers were also philosophers who could wax lyrical about almost any subject of interest to the common man, who himself was most commonly illiterate. After the Romans conquered Greece, their writers reworked


mostly the same classical Greek stories and switched them around somewhat to reflect the power and scheming of the Roman hoi polloi—the high people—the Caesars and Cleopatras of their day. Their main development was to turn the open amphitheatre into one which was closed in and lifting the stage above ground level for the first time, fearing treachery afoot. It’s a short journey to Shakespeare’s day when power, politics, love and comedy became the food of the masses. Scholars of Shakespeare do well to learn the inner meaning of the written and spoken word, for while on one level the meaning is clear, and often funny, there is always an inner meaning or undercurrent running through his dramas, which have meant that they are almost universally apt for any and every period in time. Just like the writings of Aristotle

2,000 years before him. So how can you get your bright little thing to be the 21st century’s equal to Aristotle or Shakespeare? Let them indulge in life’s intrigues, humour and tragedy —and experience them all at different levels—from the viewpoint of the working person to the highness of Princes, Princesses, Kings and Queens.

Developing a Storyline Fit for a Future Queen

The best way to illustrate what is involved is to develop a novel storyline. For children, that is best done initially by using a story they are familiar with, then asking them to develop it into a variant with new characters, themes, settings and outcomes. Their biggest challenge is not


BALI EXPAT­­ ­◆ 9th – 22nd October 2013

the ideas—they bristle with multiple short storylines—but putting these into a structure and sequence which tells a story. Take a good look at most kids’ (under 12 years) stories, and there are usually not too many words. Pictures still make up a big part of stories for the 6-12-year-old age group. By then their imagination takes over and their range of reading materials can quickly become vast. What happens over this development period is that they learn the words, their vocabulary from the stories they read, and then use it to convey their own ideas. Once they reach the end and see their words adorning the page, accompanied by the obligatory drawing of the characters in their story, they are hooked on writing. This is exactly what they have been brought

up to read and now use in their own learning to write. If they get anything published, such as in the school magazine, they are then often hooked to writing for publication as one of their chosen routes of recognition in their future, wider world. Below (A Classical Story ReImagined in 2013) is an example of an eight-year-old reworking the story of the servant girl turned princess who ends up marrying a future king—a Shakespearean type storyline written by a little person.

Some enormously popular books written for children

This selection is personal, eclectic. It is not a recommended age-specific reading list—your English language and literature

teachers at school can give you those. 1. Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, The Witches and Matilda by Roald Dahl. 2. The Wonderful Wizard of Oz by L Frank Baum. 3. Peter Pan by J. M. Barrie. 4. Alice’s Adventure in Wonderland and Through a Looking Glass by Lewis Carol. 5. Harry Potter by J. K. Rowling. 6. The Bravest Squirrel in the Forest and The Bravest Squirrel Ever by Sara Shafer. 7. The Famous Five and The Secret Seven by Enid Blyton— she wrote 800 books for children in 20 years. 8. The Dragondomes Chronicles by Lucinda Hare. ■ Seamus McElroy Seamus McElroy is an environmental consultant and University lecturer based in Bali.

A classical story re-imagined in 2013

Once upon a time, there was a maid named Cinderella who was very kind. But she had three mean nasty sisters. Their names are dopey Dada, Lady Gaga and Racy Rachel. One day, the sisters were invited to the ball. Cinderella said, “Can I go too?” Her nasty sisters all said a big “No”. “Why not?” sighed Cinderella. “Because you are too pretty” was their shouted reply. Cinderella carried on with her chores, when she heard a voice. “Please don’t cry”, said the Fairy of the Ball. “I will help you to go to the ball.” And so she did. Cinderella arrived at the ball. The handsome prince noticed Cinderella standing on her own and asked if she wanted to dance. The kind, charming Prince met his dream of a young enchanting girl and fell under Cinderella’s magic spell. He later asked her to be his Princess. And they live happily ever after… with their twin babies—one a handsome boy, the other a feisty adventuresome tomboy of a girl.

- Georgina McElroy 8 yrs old, Year 4.


9th – 22nd October 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT­­­

finding inspiration

Writing Words that

Strain and Fail to Rhyme by Paul V. Walters


hy is it that writers come to Bali to pen a novel, a poem or a memoir?

expressions serene, their caftans expensive and their luggage Louis Vuitton. Some of these devotees are themselves embarking on a tome or two, cataloguing their mystic experiences.

I simply don’t know, is the answer for me, but somehow I find myself returning ever more frequently to this paradise to put pen to paper. Is it something in the air? The soothing trade winds? The scenery? Or is it the wonderful nature of the people who provide the inspiration? Each author has his or her own reasons, but whatever they are, Bali has been the setting and the venue for some remarkable books down the years. Apart from some of the stunning local literature and Eisman’s insightful Bali Sekala& Niskala, books from some of the expats that have settled here, have told their stories well. William Ingram’s A Little Bit One O’ Clock is a classic view of living with a Balinese family and is a must for anyone settling here. Who can forget Colin McPhee’s classic, A House In Bali; the Canadian musician who introduced the magic of gamelan to the West in the 30s. Or indeed Louise G. Kote’s Our Hotel in Bali, written in 1936 when Kuta was but a poor fishing village. The trend has never stopped when one thinks of Janet De Neefe’s Fragrant Rice, a tale of passion, marriage and

Bali surely does not exist solely so the rest of us can seek pleasure and find our true deep selves?

In 2010 I was fortunate to have the opportunity to spend four months on Bali while my wife fulfilled a teaching contract at IALF. I had had an idea for a book and, with nothing to occupy myself, I decided to finally ‘have a go’.

Perhaps a better title should have been Eat, Pray, Leave!

Thirty- nine days later Final Diagnosis was written!

It is the pioneering writers like De Neefe whom I admire the most. Apart from being a whizz in the kitchen, raising four children, running two restaurants with her husband Ketut and crashing out the odd novel, she manages to dream up an event like the Bali Writers Festival(in conjunction with Heather Curnow). This forum is a testament to the lure of Bali and an inspiration for would-be novelists from around the globe. If this is the sort of writer that Bali produces, it is certainly her whom I wish most to emulate!

How could this be? Where did the daily inspiration come from? I still ask myself that question as at the time the words poured from me like water from a gushing tap.

This brings me full circle to the beginning of this piece, about what it is that attracts writers to this Island. food published in 2003 and a wonderful follow up to her Stern Men from 2000. Bali has lured writers, painters and indeed all associated with the arts to its shores like a siren calling from the sea. However, not all methinks should be chaired around the island shoulder high.

For my money, Elizabeth Gilbert’s Eat, Pray, Love went a long way towards ruining Bali’s reputation. This trite novel of one privileged woman’s quest for selfdiscovery, while at the same time romanticizing poverty and oohing and aahing over the locals, was quite frankly embarrassing. There are now scores of women from the West who flock to Bali to emulate Gilbert’s so called “enlightenment”, with their

(And now for a little shameless self -promotion.)

The two follow up novels, Blowback and Counterpoint have needed a touch of Bali when they faltered and stumbled in other climes. So in essence I am not sure what it is. But whatever it is, I will keep coming back for more! ■

The views expressed are those solely of the author.

Paul V. Walters Paul Walters is the author of two best-selling novels, Final Diagnosis and Blowback. His third novel, Counterpoint, will be released in October 2013.


BALI EXPAT­­ ­◆ 9th – 22nd October 2013

To find out more about live stand-up comedy in Indonesia please e-mail text or call (+62) 821 1194 3084 or register at

light entertainment

Dancing with the Bear by Eamonn Sadler


am writing this in a rooftop restaurant in St. Petersburg on day five of my first ever visit to Russia. Since I was young I have wanted to visit the former USSR and in my mind the mystery of the cold war and the spectre of communism have always lurked very tangibly behind a uniquely Russian form of modern capitalism. Being in the country has so far done nothing to change my perception. Visiting Russia is like dancing with a grizzly bear wearing a party hat. Very amusing and great fun, but all the while you know that if you accidentally step on its toes it will kill you with a single blow of its giant paw and devour you in a second. Being a tourist, Russia brings home what it must be like in London for foreigners who don’t

recognise the Latin alphabet and don’t speak English. Very few people speak their language or are impressed by the fact that they are there. They don’t recognize signposts or anything written. Requests for directions are generally met with blank stares or apologetic smiles or just ignored completely. People in restaurants and hotels do their best to help them and sometimes manage to convey information successfully (usually with the aid of makeshift sign language and drawings). Then, when they actually strike gold and find someone they can communicate with, they just want to burst into tears and hug them. As an Englishman in Russia things are very much the same. There are virtually no signs in English and the Russian Cyrillic alphabet is both similar and different to the

modern Latin alphabet in very confusing and amusing ways. Making sense of it is fun because some letters look exactly the same as letters used in English, but they are pronounced the way we would pronounce other English letters. For example the Cyrillic letter P has the same sound as the English R. The Cyrillic letter C is the same as the English letter S. The H sounds like the English N. So the Russian for “restaurant” is “pectopah” which represents “restoran” – but the way they say it doesn’t sound anything like the way you just said it in your head. I have always made fun of English people who seem to think that any foreigner will understand them as long as they speak very loudly, very slowly and very clearly. I have always considered this a uniquely English form of

arrogance, but it has nothing to do with being English or being arrogant. As it turns out, the Russians do it as well and it is hilarious to be on the receiving end. They repeat whatever it is they are saying over and over again in Russian, and each time they say it they move a little closer, speak a little louder, get a little more animated and use fewer and clearer words. Yesterday I asked a policeman where I could buy a train ticket to St. Petersburg. I imagined his response would translate into English something like this: (Face at normal distance, accompanied by casual pointing.) “Ah, you want the Leningradsky Train Station. Walk down to the end of this road, turn left, then walk about 200 meters. You will see the train station on your left.” Then, following the completely blank stare from me and associated map fumbling and pointing: (Face at half normal distance,

accompanied by purposeful pointing.) “Leningradsky Train Station. This way. 200 meters. Station on left.” Then after I smile and point in the same direction for a second before pointing back to the map: (Noses almost touching, accompanied by train impressions, frantic, purposeful pointing and long pauses with slight head shaking.) “LENINGRADSKY… TRAIN… THAT WAY… ON THE LEFT... ON LEFT! LEFT!” By this time I am just laughing and shaking my head and the Russian either does the same or looks bewildered at my stupidity and walks away. I guess it’s just human nature. And they really do like to drink vodka at every opportunity, and they do love to share it with everyone. Grizzly bears in party hats and all. ■

To read more by Eamonn Sadler go to

For the Macet Mind

is made possible by:



"… she's only 18 but she really, genuinely thinks I'm handsome…" Across 1. One that causes trouble (8–5) 8. Sparkle (7) 9. Public swimming pool - ablutions (5) 10. City slicker (4) 11. Treacherous (8) 13. Pressing (6) 14. Constant—place for horses (6) 17. Relating to books, etc. (8) 19. Droop (4) 21. Melvin, author (5) 22. Committed to paper (7) 24. How opposite can you get? (13)

DOWN 1. Face—fool (3) 2. Hidings (anag)—party (7) 3. Detest (4) 4. Insect with pincers (6) 5. Freedom to get around (8) 6. Pool—puss (5) 7. Able to bounce back (9) 10. Be odd blue (anag) (6,3) 12. Secret plot or affair (8) 15. Port (with fashion?) (7) 16. Part of chest (6) 18. Jewelled headdress (5) 20. Metal (4) 23. Archaic negative (3)

Answers in the next edition! ANSWERS FOR EDITION 32 ACROSS — 1. Account 8. Hairnet 9. Courier 10. Olivier 11. Apple 13. Desperado 15. Sacred cow 18. Eaten 21. Monster 22. Prairie 23. Advance 24. Tallboy

DOWN — 1. Accra 2. Chump 3. United we stand 4. Throes 5. Divided we fall 6. Angina 7. Stereo 12. Puma 14. Dine 15. Simian 16. Canova 17. Carpet 19. Throb 20. Needy

Send us the funny things you hear new expats in Bali say and you plus a friend could be attending the next Bali Comedy Club event as our guests! * Thanks to Peter in Sanur for this issue’s winning quote. Please contact us for your prize.


QUIZ Scan the barcode and answer the 10 questions correctly for a chance to win 1 Night Stay at Aston Kuta Hotel & Residences, Deluxe Room, including a buffet breakfast for two.

Congratulations to Dickie for winning the 100 Quiz! Please contact us to claim your prize.

CLOSING DATE: 29th October 2013


9th – 22nd October 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT­­­

Colleena Shakti Dance Retreat 7–14 December 2013

Ubud Writers & Readers Festival (11–15 October 2013) The Ubud Writers & Readers Festival is almost here! The theme embraced by this year’s festival is “Through Darkness to Light”, reminiscent of the first Ubud Writers & Readers Festival’s theme. An homage to R.A. Kartini, a pioneer of the women’s movement in Indonesia, this year’s festival focuses on women tales, struggles, women heroes & visionaries, as well as women writers. This prestigious event will cater to writers, poets, playwrights, comedians and songwriters all across the board. Surrounded by the natural beauty that is Ubud, it will be the perfect festivity for ‘the thinkers’ of the world. The five day program is rich with popular and prolific writers, showcasing their talents of the written and spoken word. Already turning heads in the global network of writers, Ubud Writers & Readers festival is not one to be missed! 11th –15th October 2013. For more information on various venues for different dates, visit www.

Colleena Shakti is once again hosting a dance retreat that offers 25 hours of belly dancing training over the course of seven days. From December 7 th to 14th 2013, the widely-known Colleena Shakti will be in Bali at the Desa Seni Resort, an eco friendly boutique hotel, and brings this art to life with her classes. Shakti is the pioneer of Shakti School of Dance in India. Shakti is known for her holistic approach in teaching dancing; engaging the creative mind and spiritual motions to finally create a physical contour that is both meaningful and brings enjoyment. The classes offered include topics on Indian aesthetics—Colleena has lived in India for many years—conditioning exercises, prana (breath awareness in dancing), exploration of posture and body lines, and many more. Visit for more information or for details on the venue.

Bali Comedy Festival The Bali Comedy Club is proud to present Bali Comedy Festival that will take place on October 11th and 12th. This time, in collaboration with the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival, the Bali Comedy Festival will feature three comedians, Phil Kay, Raymond Mearns, and Asep Suaji. Kay is known for his energetic and imaginative comedies. Mearns is described by many as ‘an improvisational genius’, and has just recently published a comedy autobiography that was a big hit. And Asep is one to watch in the Indonesian comedy circuit. Together, these three will bring out the best of their own characters at the Bali Comedy Festival. Come and enjoy the show! Friday, October 11th (starts at 9 pm) at the Gracie Kelly’s, Jl.

Kartika Plaza, Kuta and Saturday, October 12th (starts at 9pm) at Jazz Cafe Ubud, Jl. Sukma, Ubud. Please call (0361) 8236733 or e-mail Web:

Pechakucha Night Ubud Pechakucha has a special treat for you. As a part of the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival, Pechakucha Night will present six of the festival guests to speak at their Betelnut venue. The event will take the engaging and interesting 20x20 format, in which speakers will present 20 images, each for 20 seconds. It will be a fast-paced and fun event. Like many other Pechakucha events, expect the unexpected to happen and be prepared to be taken aback by stories and experiences of these speakers. The speakers include Stephen Lansing, Cok Sawitri, Tosca Santoso, Marcus Westbury, Suzy Hutomo, and Rudolf Dethu. Join in on the fun at Betelnut, Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, Bali on October 12th 2013 at 20:00 until 22:30. This is a free event. Visit for more information.

Great Gatsby Charity Night The Great Gatsby Charity Night will be a fundraiser to benefit the Bali WISE program, a humanitarian organization supported by R.O.L.E Foundation, in support of education for underprivileged girls and women. There will be a live and silent auction throughout the night with fine local textiles up for auction as well as other artworks. A lavish dinner will

be presented as well as many packages for accommodations at the Ayana resort, RIMBA Jimbaran Bali, and many more. This Gatsby-themed event will be exclusive to 140 auction guests and 400 after-party guests. There will be specialty-themed cocktails, Cuban cigars, and all the flapper roaring 1920s garnish for the night. Support the cause and be part of the auction. The Great Gatsby Charity Night will be held on November 30th 2013. To book your tickets, please e-mail or

Rock ‘n Run – Hard Rock Hotel Bali The 13th Chapter of the Rock ‘N Run is presented by Hard Rock Hotel Bali. This is the Hard Rock Hotel Bali’s initiative to raise funds and give back to the less fortunate. Proceeds from this event will go towards the women of Bali, specifically the Bali Pink Ribbon, a NGO that works with the Bali Breast Cancer Center to spread messages of breast cancer awareness. By participating on the run, you are helping the women of Bali. The run will be held on November 3rd 2013, on a Sunday morning, at 6:30am. Registration for the run is at 5:30am. If running is not your thing, you can still participate by purchasing a Hard Rock Hotel T-shirt (details are on the website). All proceeds from T-shirt sales will also go to charity. For more information on the run please e-mail or call (0361)761869 ext. 7163 & 7164. The venue for the run is at the Hard Rock Hotel Bali.


BALI EXPAT­­ ­◆ 9th – 22nd October 2013

Classifieds are still FREE! Send in your classifieds to: Next issue deadline: 16TH OCTOBER, 2013

Have something to sell? Looking for something to buy? Looking for staff? Selling property? Or need a place to live? Why not place your classified ad with Bali Expat! Your classified will be placed once for 2 weeks online and once in our printed version which has a circulation of 12,500 copies bi weekly. Classifieds: free of charge (50 words max). Send in your classifieds to:


Lovely view over Lovina Beach Land in North Bali over 200 are as freehold or leasehold. 2,5 km from the beach in the hill over Lovina Beach.Fantastic place with Mango trees. Tarred road,water,electric,telephone available. Price: 450.000,- Rupiah per sqm (Nego). Contact : Owner Ibu Eka (081 317 378 746) Lovely beach front villa in Nembrala, view T-land surf break from the house. Rent out villa for the week, month, maybe longer. Please e-mail if you are interested: Land lease-: Seminyak, Bali: 9.6are. 9mil rp per are, 14.5years, $109,000USD total—PRIME LOCATION SUNSET ROAD. For Sale—Bali-(2) two luxury villa on 15 are FREEHOLD- TOTAL price- $550.000 usd TOTAL for both villas! 50 meters to the beach. Villa wanted—I am looking for a modern clean 2 bed/bath to rent July to October 2014. Preferably within 10 to 15 minutes walk from seminyak legian area. Please contact: Guest Room for rent—GUEST room large, deluxe, close to Sanur, private pool, breakfast for 2, A/C, ensuite bathroom, cable TV, minibar, coffee/tea-making facilities, maid, 24/7 security. Weekly Rp3,500,000, daily Rp700,000. Ph 081239395550. E-mail: joearthkay@ Agents welcome.


Medical evacuation health and life insurance. Let us diagnose your needs. Contact Paul Beale: Mobile: +62 816 137 0663 Office: +62 21 522 0990 E-mail:

Travel Transportation: Need any Transportation in Bali island and island surround it include Lombok island. Just call 6285205363888 or send your e-mail Interested in learning Bahasa Indonesia or Bahasa Bali? I'm native Indonesian & Balinese speaker who had been studying & living in Melbourne, Australia now back living in Bali & teaching :) Contact 081237886506 Wedding Photographer destination based in Bali, Indonesia. Dedot Photography Phone: 0361 8751758, 081338751758 Address: Jalan Mertajaya No 27 Denpasar E-mail: Web: Blog: FB: dedotphotography Twitter: @dedotphotograph

Automotives Expat sells Honda CG 105cc full documents, serviced recently, surf racks, new tires. Seminyak / Canggu area. 082260360408

Jobs Looking for male Cook/Butler for our private Villa in Kuwum, Kerobokan for a family of three. Excellent working conditions. Contact: tony_hermecz@ or call: 081 712 2755 Looking for A Job: I am looking for a full time/ part time job as a Secretary/ Admin with experiences >10yrs. If interested kindly contact me 08128618811. Thanks.

Others Double wheel bench grinder from USA for sale used works perfectly Rp350,000 Sanur. 081999571288 Camping chairs new folding type very strong for sale Rp1,2 juta 081999571288. Sanur Yamaha 15 outboard motor hardly used for sale with .4m strong rubber boat with thick wooden flooring with engine mount. All at Rp 2.750,000 081999571288 Sanur AMD FX4100 Bulldozer Processor, 3, 6ghz, L cache 12mb, almost new never used, completely with Box, heat sink etc, only 900, 000 for design and game, Call/sms 087888198883 Denpasar Used HP 2230s Business Notebook, core2duo, 4gb RAM, dvd-rw, 12-inch display, new keyboard, battery need replacement, only 2, 5 million ONO call/ sms 087888198883 Denpasar Fitness Bootcamp in Ubud/Bali Fitness, boot camp and circuit training from Certified Coach. Private and groups. Feel better and achieve more! Starts Sept 24th.

Get Special Price and Discount up to 80% for Accessories only at Emax Bali 'Apple Authorized Reseller' Wr Made Seminyak, (0361) 735005.

Corporate golf membership for Nirwana Golf Club. Asking USD 45K. Contact John at 081 2380 9083 or e-mail:

BUSINESS FOR SALE (registered PT) Licensed and Insured PADI Diving Resort, all the Diving Equipment, Furniture, Costumer Data Base. Reason for sale: leaving the country. License available to open other water sports activities. Contact:

For sale: Handycam JVC GR 470 miniDV, LCD, night mode, 700xzoom, light cassette mini DV, memory card MMC slot, with bag, charger, 2 batteries, still working good, only for Rp. 1 million fix. Call: 0361 786 9350. no SMS please. Picture by request e-mail:

New laptop battery for Sony laptop type VGP-BPS9/S. 11.1 V/4400mAh was wrong size, brand new, never use. Bought US$75 sell only Rp. 500.000. E-mail: (Denpasar) Prodigy B52 DJ system. Includes DJ stand and leads. Very compact, has 2xCD players with mp3 capability and 4 channel mixer. Great to transport to and from gigs. Rp. 8 million. Taman Mumbul. Call: 0812 375 99053 For sale: 2 unit coffee machine Brasilia 1 group manual (red) & semi automatic (silver). Just serviced & clean boiler inside . Machine includes coffee grinder. Price 20 mio each unit. Call: 0819 3430 6268. Seminyak

For sale: surfboard 6.8–21–2 3/4 fibreglass, Girlie-flower design, very good condition, used only for 1 month, 2 small ding on the bottom already fixed. include: fins, leash, grippad, boardbag. 3.5 million. SMS: 0819 9990 4775. E-mail: birgit.pateter@gmail. com

Grand Designs Australia is an award winning television series that follows the construction of unique and exciting houses in Australia. We are expanding our series to include overseas houses. If you are an Australian who is building a Grand Design in Bali please contact: Andrea on +613 9947 0283 or e-mail andrea.lee-steere@fremantlemedia.


9th – 22nd October 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT­­­

Bali Expat – Issue 33 – Literature  

Bali Expat is one of Indonesia’s largest expatriate readership.