Bali Expat – Issue 32 – Music by Bali Expat

BALI EXPAT ◆ 25th September – 8th October 2013

Indonesia's Largest Expatriate Readership

| 32nd Edition | 25th September – 8th October 2013

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25th September – 8th October 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT

dear readers

32nd Edition | 25th September – 8th October 2013

Editor in Chief Angela Richardson

angela@baliexpat.biz Editorial Assistant Gabriella Panjaitan

gabriella@baliexpat.biz Management Edo Frese

edo@baliexpat.biz Sales Erna Mastini

erna@baliexpat.biz Distribution Dian Mardianingsih

dian@baliexpat.biz Graphics Frederick Ng

fred@baliexpat.biz Finance & Admin Pertiwi Gianto Putri

tiwi@jakartaexpat.biz Lini Verawaty

lini@jakartaexpat.biz Contributors Stephanie Brookes Polly Christensen

ecently I have had the pleasure of revisiting a place of many fond childhood memories in North Bali; Menjangan Island. Located in the West Bali National Park, the only national park in Bali, this small island can be found around eight kilometres north-west off mainland Bali. Established in 1941, this park spans 190 square kilometres, with a further 580 square kilometres of protected reserve in the highlands to the East, which accounts for a total of about 10 percent of Bali’s total land area. The little island of Menjangan hasn’t changed much since my last visit some ten years ago, which is positive news. The coral reefs surrounding the island are a major tourist attraction for divers and snorkelers coming over on little boats from the mainland, and are still pristine like those in remote parts of Indonesia, such as the Komodo Islands. The reefs at Menjangan Island are colourful, vibrant and full of life, a contrast to many reefs around Bali, which have been destroyed and bleached by illegal bombing. Some creatures we encountered during our dives were schools of mackerel, turtles, sea snakes, barracuda, many different types of clown fish (aka Nemo), many types of shrimp, flounders, flat worms, and hundreds of species of hard and soft coral, which were a feast to the eyes. It is places like this that the rest of Indonesia, and the world, should follow, understanding that there is much more money to be made in the long run from diving tourism than from fishing and destroying underwater creatures and their habitats. The flow of tourists to

Menjangan island is consistent, bringing tourists over from several different resorts on the mainland, providing jobs for locals in the area who work as boat drivers and diving and snorkelling guides. There is one hotel located on Menjangan Island itself, however it is considered controversial due to its location, which is actually illegal. The word ‘Menjangan’ means ‘deer’, and deer there are plenty. Other land creatures include monkeys, lizards, many species of birds, and even wild boar. Being only a four-hour drive from the hustle and bustle of the South, I strongly suggest that you visit this magical place if you haven’t done so already. I felt extremely refreshed after spending a few days surrounded by wildlife and nature in this near-unspoiled place. If you do make your way here, remember to continue to set an example by taking nothing but photos and leaving nothing but your footprints…. ■

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Angela Richardson

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Bill Dalton Karen Davis Francesco Ricciardi Eamonn Sadler

in this 32nd issue:

Antony Sutton

Traditional Music: Michael Tenzer ................................................................ 3

Paul V. Walters

Conservation Victory: West Manggarai & Komodo Creates 7,000km2

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Shark & Manta Ray Sanctuary ................................................................. 4 Vaughan Hatch: Mekar Bhuana Conservatory ........................................... 6 Meet the Expat: Funktastic Maick .............................................................. 8 Faces of Bali: Nyoman The Organic Advocate ............................................ 9 Speaking Up: Sister in Danger .................................................................... 10 If Music be the Food of Love, Go Seek It Out! ............................................ 11 Light Entertainment: Let's Call It a Draw…................................................. 12

Events

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BALI EXPAT ◆ 25th September – 8th October 2013

traditional music Balinese Gamelan Music, he flew into Jakarta; took the train along the east coast as far as Banyuwangi where he caught a ferry across the narrow strait to Bali itself and a love affair that continues to this day.

Michael Tenzer by Antony Sutton

must admit the first time I came across a gamelan orchestra I thought the band that had been booked had pulled out and someone had raided the kitchen, grabbing all the pots and pans they could to make a din. The only thing missing, to my untrained eye, and ear, was a few upturned Tupperware dishes. It’s not, of course. In fact, “Like many other music with a primarily cyclic approach to melodic and rhythmic organization, Balinese gamelan music of the court or courtderived traditions relies upon symmetries of one kind or another for structural coherence. Gamelan genres originating in other Balinese historical or cultural contexts have different, often more asymmetrical, kinds of organizing principles. (Where) a set of Balinese concepts of melodic motion are used to develop a theory useful for analyzing the variety of symmetrical and asymmetrical structures evident across the repertoire.” Not my words, but the words of a gentleman who fell in love with the haunting strains of the gamelan in the 1970s when the rest of the world was getting to grips with spiky-haired teenagers spitting at passersby and calling themselves punk rockers.

He must have had some list of contacts. Whereas most first-time visitors made do with a Lonely Planet guide book and a cheap losmen by Bemo Corner, Tenzer headed to the puppetmaking village of Peliatan where he crashed with the painter Ketut Madra.

Michael Tenzer is, today, a Professor of Music at the University of British Colombia. Born in 1957 in New York City, Tenzer has been involved with Balinese gamelan since 1977. Since then he has carried out research into the music, written books and earned the accolade as the first western composer to write for Balinese ensembles, surrounding himself, as he says, in a cocoon of Balinese music. His eclectic output matches his own influences; fusing traditional Balinese sounds with Indian and European elements. 1n 1979, Tenzer took his passion a step further when he formed his own band. He teamed up with I Wayan Suweca, his former teacher, and Rachael Cooper who had taught English in Indonesia in the early 1980s before joining the Asia Society and is now Director of Global Performing Arts and Special Cultural Initiatives. Gamelan Sekar Jaya (translated as Victorious Flower), has been described as ‘the finest Balinese gamelan ensemble outside of Indonesia’ by Tempo magazine and has featured gamelan gong kebyar, gamelan angklung, gender wayang, and gamelan jegog in its performance portfolio. Peopled by local enthusiasts, the group has performed across the US and have also toured Bali itself; along the way picking the prestigious

Dharma Kusuma Award for Cultural Service from the island’s local government. His journey into what would have been a strange new world of sounds, for a youth who had grown up with the accompanying soundtrack of the Vietnam War and hippies, began in 1976 when he overheard the word ‘gamelan’ accompanied by a heap of superlatives. His musical curiosity aroused, he headed down the music store (note to readers aged below 25; before MP3 and ITunes we had to physically drag ourselves down to dedicated shops that sold pre-packaged music). Within 10 minutes of putting the vinyl on the turntable he was hooked and looked up Bali on the map. 20 years old with a handful of letters of introduction he set off to Bali; still then relatively untouched by the tourist hordes waiting round the corner. Reading between the lines of his preface to the first edition of

Instead of hitting the beach during the day and the bars during the evening, Tenzer enrolled at the KOKAR School of Music and Dance where he studied under the tutelage of Nyoman Sumandhi. Getting to grips with melody, ornamentation and drumming, he would learn twice a day while also being shown the island on the back of his teacher’s motorcycle. His would have been a Bali that the likes of Colin McPhee and Walter Spies would have recognized. A Bali where looking over a verdant sawah would have meant nothing more than opening the front door; a point Tenzer alludes to as he penned the introduction to the third edition of his book. Recalling how he had written the first edition in the very same spot he writes, “The pondok is faded and worn, and the rice fields have receded behind multi-story buildings, thus diminishing much of the creature chorus”, which pretty much sums up how much of Bali has succumbed

to concrete; indeed a glimpse of sawah now often needs a lengthy excursion along narrow roads as others flock to see the same sight they have travelled thousands of miles for. That initial six months in Bali pretty much decided his future career. He was enthralled by what he had learned and what he had seen; “my years of experience with this music have turned me into an enthusiastic disseminator, in reverence of this artistic tradition and the people and culture that posses it.” He goes on to say “No other music in the world can corner the market on beauty, sophistication, subtlety or any other aesthetic identity, but Balinese music does possess a singular mix of orchestral complexity and a strong commitment to group interaction that makes it inspirational.” Tenzer today spends most of his time pacing the corridors of his university but you can be sure his IPod is filled to overflowing with the pipes and drums of his beloved Bali. For more information about Michael Tenzer and Balinese gamelan, check out his book Balinese Gamelan Music which comes with an accompanying CD and goes into great detail about the music and its subtleties as well as the role it plays in Balinese society. Alternatively, check out his website www.michaeltenzer. com ■

Antony Sutton Antony is a freelance writer based in Jakarta. Please send comments and suggestions to antony@the-spiceislands.com

25th September – 8th October 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT

conservation victory

West Manggarai and Komodo Creates 7,000 km2 Shark and Manta Ray Sanctuary by Francesco Ricciardi

n a country where the environment is very often sacrificed in the name of “business”, finally we welcome very good news that demonstrates that in Indonesia there are politicians more interested in the future of this wonderful land than the desire to fill their pockets. The district Governor of West Manggarai and Komodo has designated his district’s entire marine and coastal waters as a shark and manta ray sanctuary (Governor’s Decree No. DKPP/1309/VIII/2013). Fishing is now prohibited for manta rays, sharks, and other threatened species, such as turtles, dugongs and napoleon wrasse throughout the district’s 7,000 km2 waters that extend up to 12 nautical miles offshore. This announcement extends existing conservation management within Komodo National Park’s 1,000 km2 marine habitats to now encompass the entire district. One of the main problems of marine reserves, especially the largest ones, is the difficulty of patrolling and law enforcing. In this case, the total prohibition of forcing can be put into effect even directly from land, instead

of an expensive patrol at sea. This should make it harder for criminals and smugglers to carry on their trade. Manta rays are listed as ‘vulnerable to extinction’ under the International Union for Conservation (IUCN) Red List, and they have been declared under the CITES protection in March 2013, together with some species of sharks particularly overfished. With females only producing two to three pups every five years, slow reproductive cycles mean that manta rays are extremely vulnerable to overexploitation. The huge demand from the Chinese market, due to the legend that the gill rakers of these animals have an action of “filtering toxins from the human body” is driving many manta populations down to their extinction. “Our district of West Manggarai and Komodo is recognized as a world class marine tourism destination. By prohibiting fishing for these threatened species, we can ensure they will remain for future generations to enjoy”, said Mr Sebastinus Wantung, head of the district’s Marine and Fisheries Agency.

Water around West Manggarai and Komodo hosts one of the world’s richest marine biodiversity, including more than 10 shark species, two species of Manta Rays, and an incredible diversity of marine and terrestrial wildlife. “Manta watching tourism is worth an estimated US$15 million to Indonesia’s economy every year, and West Manggarai and Komodo is one of the premier destinations. The chance to see a manta ray draws divers and snorkelers from around the world”, said Andrew Harvey, Director of MantaWatch, an organization involved in manta ray studies and conservation projects around the world. “I applaud the Governor’s visionary leadership. This is a fantastic example of how local governments and the diving industry can work together to achieve positive impacts for the environment and the economy.” The West Manggarai and Komodo shark and manta ray sanctuary signals a growing trend towards governmental awareness in Indonesia of the tremendous economic value of these species, and the urgent need for improved

management. West Manggarai is the second bold district to create a shark and manta ray sanctuary, and follows the designation of a 46,000 km2 sanctuary in Raja Ampat in November 2012. Meanwhile, Indonesia’s Ministry of Marine Affairs and Fisheries is working with scientists and NGOs to establish regulations that will grant national-level protected status to several endangered shark and ray species. The West Manggarai and Komodo district government invited MantaWatch to provide technical and legal advice, and worked with more than 20 local dive centres to develop proposals for the shark and manta ray sanctuary. Divers are now helping to monitor the sanctuary’s impacts on populations of threatened species by sharing their encounters on MantaTrax, a social web application developed by MantaWatch to promote open and participative marine conservation. ■

See www.mantawatch.com for more information.

Francesco Ricciardi Francesco Ricciardi is a freelance photographer and journalist based in Bali. PhD in Marine Biology and diving instructor, he uses his camera to uncover the wonders of Indonesian marine and terrestial wildlife. His website: www.francescoricciardi.com

BALI EXPAT ◆ 25th September – 8th October 2013

25th September – 8th October 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT

expat entrepreneur

VAUGHAN HATCH

Mekar Bhuana Conservatory by Bill Dalton

aughan Hatch was born and grew up in Wellington, New Zealand. At university he majored in Japanese language (Victoria University) and archaeology (Otago University), and also studied ethnomusicology. In 2008 he earned a diploma in publishing and editing from the New Zealand Institute of Business Studies. Vaughan originally came to Bali in 1997 on an Indonesian government scholarship to study Balinese gamelan. He has now spent about half of his life in Bali.

How did you first become interested in Bali? I've been interested in Asian culture and philosophy since I was a teenager. On a whim, while studying at Otago University, I joined a Javanese gamelan group. I instantly fell in love with the sounds of the gongs and the whole concept of mass musical teamwork that embodies a traditional gamelan ensemble. I then started listening to vintage records of gamelan music from all over Indonesia and became mesmerized by the sounds of the old gender wayang, pelegongan, semara pegulingan orchestras. I remember endless university bus rides listening to this ethereal music on my Walkman and dreaming of one day experiencing it live in Bali. When was your first trip to Indonesia? I visited Bali and Jakarta as a tourist with my family in 1991, but only for a few days. It wasn't until I got an Indonesian government scholarship to study at STSI in Denpasar that I could experience the 'real' Bali. During these years I spent a lot of my time in villages learning old styles of semara pegulingan from elderly guru, many of whom have now died. What is the mission of the Mekar Bhuana Conservatory? To document, reconstruct and archive rare and previously extinct Balinese gamelan music and dance. It is a documentation centre that is currently run out of our house rather than a school or an academy. Has Mekar Bhuana saved any musical forms from extinction? Four village and court styles of semara pegulingan, two styles of semara patangian and two styles of gender wayang. Semara pegulingan court music dating from the 14th-17 th centuries is

both profoundly beautiful and has great stylistic variations from village to village. I am fascinated by rare archaic music (10th to 14th centuries) such asselonding and gambang.

How does Mekar Bhuana reconstruct music? We use a variety of sources: working with elderly/senior musicians, learning from vintage or field recordings, and analysing old manuscripts. What workshops does Mekar Bhuana offer? Most of our workshop programs are focused on gamelan music and dance, where students have a chance to learn and play on genuine antique Balinese gamelan orchestras. However, we also custom make cultural immersion programs, which may include puppetry, batik, cooking, Balinese language and offeringmaking components. We have short programs for groups that just wish to study for a half or full day, as well as those which may be several weeks long. We can also include cultural excursions, accommodation and performances depending on a group's needs. People of all ages have taken our workshops, with the eldest being 85—composers from New York. What are the most popular of your private gamelan and dance lessons? Both gamelan and dance, but currently private dance classes. More people are realizing that Balinese dance is not only fascinating to learn but also a great workout. Typically, students who are familiar with belly dancing or ballet, for example, find that they use completely different muscles and need to think entirely differently about their bodies when they learn Balinese dance. Gamelan workshops are also popular because more and more people want to make music in a community where people of all different musical levels can create something as a whole that is a true collaborative expression of art, where each part of the puzzle, no matter how simple (the gong, for example) is essential and equally important. How is the organization financed? Is it non-profit? We currently are self financed by our online store, www. mekarbhuana.com where we

sell products related to Balinese gamelan and dance such as instruments, dance costumes, puppets, masks, recordings, books and other merchandise.

Does Mekar Bhuana receive any local, regional or national government support? Though we have applied on numerous occasions for funding, we've never received any support from the government other than the opportunity to perform at the Bali Arts Festival. Corruption is still a huge barrier to funding for the arts, and still requires that you know the right people to get 'support' (particularly around election time), and we don't play that game. What other activities are you engaged in besides giving dance and music lessons? We do performances, both locally and internationally. We give seminars at festivals and conferences domestically and internationally. We have toured four countries, and were privately invited to represent Indonesia at the 2010 Asian Games in Guangzhou. We offer in depth, non-touristic workshops for serious study groups. For the next three months, we will be teaching artists in residence at the University of Toronto. What future plans does Mekar Bhuana have? To build organically on our current concept, continuing to help these rare and undervalued art forms blossom once again first in Bali and then across the world. Ultimately we aim to create a documentation centre and interactive museum, akin to those you would find in progressive countries, that is fully funded and has both local and international support and patronage. There's nothing like this anywhere in Indonesia even though such centres are desperately needed. This is not just about helping local people to find out more about rare and extinct art forms, but also to increase worldwide awareness about the incredible diversity and uniqueness of Balinese culture. For the next three months, together with my wife, Putu Evie Suyadnyani, I will represent Mekar Bhuana as World Music Artist in Residence at Toronto University. Here we will be spreading the Mekar Bhuana message and teaching rare Balinese court music and dance.

'THE MISSION: TO DOCUMENT, RECONSTRUCT AND ARCHIVE RARE AND PREVIOUSLY EXTINCT BALINESE GAMELAN MUSIC AND DANCE.'

How may interested readers learn more about Mekar Bhuana? Contact us on info@ balimusicanddance.com or via our social networks, Facebok, Twitter, LinkedIn, Pinterest, Google+, under 'Mekar Bhuana."We can also be contacted by phone on (0361) 464 201 and 081-999-191-104. ■

Bill Dalton Bill Dalton has been writing travel features, book reviews, interviews and guidebooks about Indonesia for more than 40 years, starting with his groundbreaking Indonesia Handbook first published in 1976. Bill lives on a farm with his Indonesian family deep in the countryside of west Bali.

BALI EXPAT ◆ 25th September – 8th October 2013

25th September – 8th October 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT

meet the expat

FUNKTASTIC MAICK Resident DJ of La Plancha and Favela, Maick Rodriguez shares his love of Music and Bali. by Karen Davis

Where are you from? I was born and raised in Tenerife, Canary Islands (Spain). I grew up on a small island which is also a tourist destination. How did you become a DJ? I started when I was twelve or thirteen years old. My sister had a tape deck and I would sneak into her room and play Phil Collins, Madonna, Spandau Ballet and do my little mixes from that and the radio, too. At that time my first love was skateboarding. I dreamed of being a professional skateboarder, but I broke my foot. So when I was recovering I focused more on the music thing. I got a turntable and cassette and started to do my mixes. When I tried to go back to skateboarding my foot gave me so much pain I realized I couldn’t continue. What were your first gigs? When I was fourteen I started playing at birthday parties,and people were always asking for my mixed music tapes. Then I started going three times a year to London for 10 days to three months to buy the records and clothes which I brought home to sell. Then I started to play the big parties, which I thought could be better. I started to promote my own parties then, with two other DJs called Funk Squad. It was very successful. We

were famous in Spain. Funk Squad had parties of 3,500 people with alternative music featuring Rhytym and Blues, Hip-Hop, and Classics. We started in ’95 and from ’97–2005 we did parties, festivals and radio shows. For 20 years I have been a DJ. Music is my first love, it really impacts me in a way nothing else does. As a DJ music takes care of me. It allows me to travel and live my dream. I do what I love in places I love.

That’s called success! Tell me about your radio hosting. I started to do radio shows because I'm interested in sharing music. I hosted shows that played a mix that some people hadn’t heard that much, because most radio only plays the top forty hits. I hosted radio shows for fifteen years and online radio towards the end of my radio days. I did collaborations with the most important FM station in Spain; Los Cuarenta Principales. I enjoyed the radio work even more than being a DJ because I played music I really loved. All the music did not have to be for dancing; I could be generous and impact the listeners with other types of music I loved to play. It was a compliment when listeners would approach me and thank me for introducing them to a singer or group which my show had introduced to them.

What type of music do you love and play? The music I love most is all related to forms of black music. My favourite music is not from this era. I play disco, funk, R&B and hip-hop. Electronic music is okay, but it doesn’t move me like the music of the 60s, 70s and 80s. Usually the rhythm tracks are from those classics. In those days, I think ninety percent of musicians were really true artists. It is the music I respect the most. Nowadays a guy on a PC can make a song. Maybe he can transfer his feelings, but it’s not the same. I think ninety percent of the people pumping out music today are not total artists. Only about ten percent of the music is made by real artists these days. Most music is put out by the music industry for a huge market. It is an product for a huge market. The industry thinks it is cheaper to take a new guy and put the money into marketing and promotion. When people make music nowadays, they invest in computerized equipment and advertising and social networking. Now the music business is making more business and less music. Back in the day, before my time, it was more music and less business. Music was more organic. A few musicians would get together and put out great new sounds that are classics today. They worked hard to make it. These musicians are still a huge influence. I say I have one mother and one father in music. My Father is Curtis Mayfield and my Mother is Sade! I remember clearly the first time I heard Curtis Mayfield. His music transports me to another kind of life. No other artist affects me as strongly as him. There is still good music and great musicians but the focus has changed. There is a lot from the old days, which deserves to be played. What moves me the most is when people actually play instruments in a group. Music nowadays is like fast food. I call it fast music; made fast with a lot of sugar, not really healthy, not connected to your soul. Even the lyrics nowadays don’t say much. When hip-hop started it addressed social issues.

'WHEN HIP-HOP STARTED IT ADDRESSED SOCIAL ISSUES. IT WAS A MOVEMENT. NOW IT IS ALL ABOUT BENTLEYS, DESIGNER CLOTHES, HUGE ESTATES.'

It was a movement. Now it is all about Bentleys, designer clothes, huge estates. It is like selling the rich lifestyle. The original intention of hip-hop was to make people think. Now the force of that movement has been lost.

What makes a good DJ? There are two kinds of DJ. One is the DJ who plays what he really loves, and promoters call him because they want that particular music. The other is the DJ who focuses on the entertainment aspect. In entertainment you must adapt to the crowd. I try to be in the middle of these two types; to please the crowd and also to share the music I think must be played. I like to have the knowledge of different decades to offer. I enjoy some new tracks, but there is not much that is really new. If people love a new track I respect that and I’ll play it for the people. There is a lot of new talent out there, but there is so much it is harder to find the great artists. Thanks to the Internet we can find new music which is not promoted by industry, which is not interested in the music, but rather in the profits. It is similar to the fast food and pharmaceutical industries. They are not interested in what is healthy, but in what makes money. Music is powerful. One politician does not have the power that a great song or musician can generate! Why don’t you make music? I respect music so much, I prefer to play and promote great music and artists. I respect it too much to make something bad so I leave it to the pros to make the music I love. I am a modest DJ that started with the vinyl. I sometimes miss the real contact with vinyl; the feel, the scratching. It was heavy luggage though. So the up-side is now I only have to carry what fits in my hand!

What brought you to Bali? I had wanted to come to SE Asia for years. I travelled Europe and the USA. I was so busy. But the West changed. The economic crisis, the system based on consuming and throwing away. I became disappointed with the western culture. I sold everything and quit everything. I put a few things in a backpack and came to Bali first. After a month my girlfriend and I travelled up through Java to Malaysia by train. My girlfriend at the time had a motorcycle accident and broke her foot so we returned to Bali for her to recuperate. One day we were having dinner here at La Plancha and the owner, Gonzalo, heard us speaking Spanish and came over to talk. We became friends and after hearing my background I played here first for the Spain/Italy soccer match. Now I help them at La Plancha and at Favela. As a DJ it's easy for me to contact and book other DJs. Now everyone is happy with the sound here and we will do the same at Favela. I have such respect for the owners here. They are music lovers. There are so many fancy, super modern venues here now, but they just don’t have the soul of La Plancha or Favela. I realize I have everything I want here. I’m watching the sunset, playing my music. Eating the wonderful food at La Plancha; the energy, the people, the music and the love. I own nothing, but I have everything! I feel more connected with myself and enjoy life more. I am planning to be around for a while! ■

Thank you for the great music everyday at sunset… it is why we all meet every day around La Plancha!

Karen Davis Chilean born American,Karen Davies is a journalist,artist and art therapist. Formerly a NYC fashion designer,she has been coming to Bali since 1979 and now resides here.

BALI EXPAT ◆ 25th September – 8th October 2013

faces of bali

Nyoman

The Organic Advocate words & photo by Stephanie Brookes

t is one thing to start a warung from scratch, however it is very different to attempt to open an organic warung. Abe-do Organic Warung, located two kilometres from Ubud, in Banjar Kutuh Kaja, and was created a year ago with only three spoons, three knives, three forks and five glasses. It was difficult for Nyoman Sukarsa, the former artist and gardener to come up with the start up cost of Rp.2 million. There was not much spare change for kitchen implements and extra supplies.

yoman was motivated to go organic when his wife, Sri got very sick and he started to source a natural, healthy way for her to get back to good health. With the aid of herbs, jamu (traditional medicine) and switching to organic whole foods, Sri is now healthy, full of energy and is working full time at the warung. The food they serve is fresh, organic where possible and prepared on the spot from scratch. Nothing is pre-prepared or from jars, cans or bottles. It’s a real labour of love. The organic farmer, Mr Hartono, is located only two km away and he provides seasonal organic fruit and vegetables, and delivers to the

restaurant daily. Nyoman explained, “My warung is only 70% organic, because I can not provide certified organic chicken and meat. The meat costs are four times the regular price and I simply cannot afford to charge those prices”. Nyoman told me how he feels blessed by the patrons that visit the warung. “One American man helped me out and put Abe-do on Trip Advisor, and then another person helped me make a Facebook page. Now people are coming from far and wide to try my organic food and organic Bali coffee. I am so happy and business is doing very well.” Nyoman and Sri now own twenty cups and twenty glasses and things are getting better. The cool music tunes that play in the warung are from a little i-pod and doc station that was donated recently by a Canadian patron. Nyoman told me how he feels blessed by all these random acts of kindness and “angels” that drop into his warung. A great little success story that started with courage and belief on a shoestring budget and an example of how from the little things, the big things grow. ■

https://www.facebook.com/ AbeDoFriendlyFamilyWaroeng

Stephanie Brookes Stephanie Brookes is a freelance travel writer www.travelwriter.ws and will be covering our Faces of Bali column for David Metcalf, our regular columnist, who is away for one month.

25th September – 8th October 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT

speaking up 20 victims everyday in 2012 (Komnas Perempuan). People often hear stories about domestic violence on national television and read about sexual abuse towards women in newspapers. And yet it is hard for a girl or child to feel supported enough to convey her grim story of violence or rape to a family member, or even the police or society in general. Even a woman who is a direct victim has difficulties speaking up or putting her trust in the authorities. Domestic violence in Bali is still one of the main causes for divorce. Women are brave enough to leave their husbands and file for divorce. But divorce is shameful, and results in problems for the woman and her family of origin. With campaigns such as ‘Sister in Danger’ and Komnas Perempuan, more women and girls have found the courage to speak up. Many wives report their husbands for raping daughters to the police station or to the Women’s Crisis Centre. By watching the news on TV, the women and girls know what to do.

SISTER IN DANGER Youth Against Sexual Violence by Polly Christensen

long awaited campaign by Indonesians to highlight abuse of girls by their families has been launched by the songwriter of local group, Simponi to discover how we can give a voice to women and girls in jeopardy. "Sister in Danger” is a song performed by Simponi (Sindikat Musik Penghuni Bumi or ‘Music Syndicate of Earth Dwellers’) as part of a campaign to promote protection for females. Hundreds of youngsters in Bali are now grouped in a national “Sister in Danger” campaign to eradicate aggression against women and girls in Indonesia. This vital campaign, spear headed by Simponi, brought together many university and high school students in Bali, the Commission on Violence Against Women (Komnas Perempuan), and the Women’s Legal Aid foundation (LBH APIK Bali). KOMNAS PEREMPUAN Rape, incest, and domestic violence are taboo subjects within Indonesia and violence against women is not fully recognized as a problem. Women who are battered or tormented by their husbands may be cut-off from community support and many of these victims are scared to freely discuss their problems. When Simponi launched a mini album in February this year, they committed to donate Rp.5,000 for every CD sold to ‘Pundi Perempuan’, a program initiated by Komnas Perempuan and Indonesian for Humanity Foundation (YIK) to

RESPECT AND EQUALITY Simponi feel attitude is the key toward positive change. Boys and men should respect women, girls and children just like they respect their own mother and family. Girls and women should have the courage to say ‘no’ to sexual harassment, to report any kind of sexual violence. Males can spread the message of equality, respect and anti-violence through their own interests or hobbies.

support Women’s Crisis Centres in many cities across Indonesia. Local band Simponi cooperated with LBH APIK Bali when they created the ‘Sister in Danger’ Roadshow at two Balinese universities and one school in 2013. MUSIC FOR AWARENESS My older sister is in danger / my younger sister is in danger. / My mother is in danger / don’t teach us how to dress / teach your brain about humanity. / My family is in danger / your family is in danger. / You are all in danger. These are parts of the “Sister in Danger” lyrics performed by local band Simponi to promote safety for girls and women. Music concerts are the main draw of the campaign with additional workshops and discussion groups as part of the tour. Songwriter M. Berkah Gamulya (Mul) joined the pop-rock band Simponi to sing and learn about humanity, together with the people, especially youth. “Sister in Danger” is a song about sadness, fear and anger and was written as a tribute to the victims and survivors of sexual violence in Indonesia and around the world. This year’s ‘Sister in Danger’ Roadshow (across 11 cities in Bali and Java) was a musical discussion campaign. People contributed as participants, as speakers or hosts. The aim was to encourage Indonesians to contribute, by making donations or by joining in with any activity to boost the campaign’s success and awareness.

were recorded in Denpasar.

DOMESTIC VIOLENCE 472 domestic violence and sexual abuse cases toward women and children were reported last year, across the island. The Bali branch of the Community Service Center for the Protection of Women and Children found a total of over 782 cases of brutality towards women and children were recorded in Bali the previous year. There were a total of 253 sexual offenses towards women and children, including 190 cases of domestic violence, which

Balinese families have a patrilineal family system, which is followed closely within the community. Therefore, it is important to raise awareness among Balinese that domestic offenses are totally unacceptable. Law No. 23/2004 on the elimination of domestic violence stipulates that abusive husbands found guilty in court face a maximum five years imprisonment or a maximum Rp.15,000,000 fine. According to Law No. 23/2002 on child protection, those convicted of child rape or child molestation may face between three and 15 years in prison or a fine of between Rp.60,000,000 and Rp.300,000,000.

Help is required to produce more leaflets and fact sheets to distribute. We need more discussion, more music and film to educate people about gender equality, about human rights, and about children’s rights. Simponi needs more funding to create events, school roadshows, to run Women’s Crisis Centres and to support legal aid foundations. Bali Expat readers can join LBH APIK Bali as a volunteer, or report sexual violence to them. We need to work together to solve this problem. ■

Contact: Mrs. Ni Nengah Budiwati -LBH APIK Baliat: kadek.buda@yahoo.com M. Berkah Gamulya: simponi10@gmail.com, 08158019813, @simponii

SPEAKING UP There were 12 victims every day in Indonesia during 2011, a number which increased to Polly Christensen British born Polly Christensen is a documentary film maker, features writer and environmentalist. She can be contacted at www.madefromstardust.com

BALI EXPAT ◆ 25th September – 8th October 2013

local bands

If Music be the Food of Love

Go Seek It Out! words and photos by Paul V. Walters

Arian Tigabelas, the lead singer, commands the stage like a general leading his troops into battle; building an immediate rapport with their adoring audience.

occasional groupies politely seek autographs from my companions, as we are escorted to the VIP tent. I feel like a rock star!

There is an expression I have always loved, “When in Rome”. For Bali and the music scene, I think the expression should be, “When in Bali, go with the flow”. A few weeks ago, my wife and I were invited to a ‘party’ by Leo and Liz Sinatra at their charming boutique and coffee shop on the main road in Batu Balan. "Nothing too big", Leo tells me. "A few bands, great music, pretty laid back. We’re expecting about 1,000 people." To date, my music experience on Bali has been limited to attending some rather fine jazz concerts in Seminyak, Legian and Sanur, where I began to realize that serious musical talent in the tropics abounds. Apart from that, live music for me has been pretty much listening to “Hotel California” played over and over by aspiring cover bands in restaurants and bars throughout the tourist spots. So, suddenly here was an opportunity to experience the “real generation X” sounds of Bali, up close and personal for the first time.

Leo Sinatra is the founder and virtuoso guitarist from Suicidal Sinatra, a band that continues to expand its fan base at lightning speed throughout Indonesia. His ensemble began the latest craze of Rockabilly, or Psychobilly in Indonesia and now has a growing fan base throughout the country. Leo and Liz greet us warmly when we arrive at the venue just after 6pm. I look around and see that there are fewer than fifty people sitting around looking relaxed, in no hurry at all. This could be a rather quiet evening. Not a chance! Seems the neighbours were a bit miffed when told that there would be about a thousand or so partygoers and nine bands descending on them to blast their peaceful Friday night into oblivion! “We had to move the venue at the last minute”, says Leo as if this was akin to moving a piece of furniture from one room to another. “Would you mind travelling with the band to the new venue in Singapadu?" he asks me. “Sure”, I say, “So we’ll be

travelling with you?” “No, you will be going with them”, he answers pointing to a minivan that has just pulled up. Out spills some of the nicest bunch of guys I’ve met in a long while. They are Jakarta-based rock titans Seringai (grin), fresh from just having opened for Metallica two nights before, and here they are to headline Leo’s party! The evening is definitely looking up! Go with the flow! We hop aboard and meander our way through darkened villages, along tree-lined country roads; the chatter in the bus lively and unpretentious. Sitting behind us are superstars completely devoid of ego, wanting to know more about what we do rather than the other way round. The venue turns out to be a small stadium used, I presume, for indoor sporting events. The thousand ‘partygoers‘ have arrived and are in full voice, bopping to the lead up bands. Roadies swarm backstage;

A bonhomie atmosphere prevails, with the bands exchanging playful banter and discussing difficult chords, while I enjoy the complimentary Bintangs! We take our seats in the stands where I am introduced to what Leo calls Psychobilly rock. And rock it does! The Suicidal Sinatra play loud, fast and incredibly tight music, which seems to pour out their souls. The crowd laps them up. This is a group that is destined for great things. The changeover between bands is seamless as the punk-looking roadies, complete with vibrant Mohawk haircuts, set up for the headline act. The mosh pit is seething with punks, Rastas and head bangers awaiting their idols; the mood boisterous, which infects the rest of the crowd. Seringai finally take the stage with a heart-rendering version of “Indonesia Raya” with the crowd singing along with ardent valor and pride.

This is a band accustomed to the big stage, and yet here they were playing as if their lives depended on it, to a relatively small crowd in rural Bali. They (and I) loved it! This was a night when Bali’s ‘can-do’ attitude came through loud (very loud!) and clear. A hastily rearranged venue, fly in a headline act from Jakarta, seamlessly parade nine bands on a makeshift stage and pull together a wonderful event as if it had been months in the planning. In conclusion, if you are seeking great music on this wonderful island, ‘Seek and ye shall find!’ and remember to go with the flow! My thanks go once again to Leo and Liz Sinatra for making this article possible. Also look out for the Suicidal Sinatras—you won’t be disappointed! ■

Paul V. Walters Paul Walters is the author of two best-selling novels, Final Diagnosis and Blowback. His third novel, Counterpoint, will be released in October 2013.

25th September – 8th October 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT

To find out more about live stand-up comedy in Indonesia please e-mail info@jakartacomedyclub.com text or call (+62) 821 1194 3084 or register at www.jakartacomedyclub.com

light entertainment

Let's Call It a Draw… by Eamonn Sadler

s soon as I looked old enough to drink, I became a member of my local Irish Club in England. I was always tall for my age, so I think I was probably only about 15 years old when I started going there, but it was never a problem anyway because the Irish Club wasn’t too fussy about the year of your birth, as long as you could pay for your drinks and walk out under your own steam at the end of the night. If you couldn’t walk, the large barmen were always more than happy to help you leave, and there was generally a small pile of Irishmen just outside the door ten minutes after closing time. I used to go there pretty much every Friday night, while my mother and stepfather thought I was at a friend’s house doing homework or playing with a hoop

and a stick or something. They were always well under their own steam on a Friday night anyway, so I could pretty much get away with anything. While I don’t generally condone the use of racial stereotypes, it is fair to say that there were more than a few members of this particular Irish Club who did little to dispel the myth about some Irishmen being extraordinarily fond of a skin-full of Guinness and a punch-up. I can’t remember exactly how many fights I witnessed there, but I do know that when I turned 18 and started going to regular pubs, I couldn’t figure out for the life of me why I could still understand what people were saying after nine o’clock or why there were no glasses flying about. One particularly disturbing incident is, however, lodged firmly and forever in my memory.

I was in the club enjoying a pint of Guinness and watching a game of snooker. It was after 9pm so I was on my guard and I was keeping a low profile because experience had taught me that it was not a good idea to be available for an independent third party opinion during a dispute about the rules. Two Irishmen were playing for a pile of cash that was sitting on the edge of the table, it was two frames each in a best of five and only the pink and the black remained. Six points for the pink would take the match and the player in the lead was standing behind the white ball, chalking his cue and eyeing up the shot. It was a very simple nudge into the side pocket with an easy follow-through for the black, even though he didn’t need it. He leaned down onto the table and lined up the shot, taking his time and nervously

sliding the cue rapidly back and forth across the bridge of his left hand. There was quite a lot of money at stake so he was in no rush. I turned away for a second to put my glass down on the table behind me and at that exact moment I heard a sickening thud. I turned round to see the player lying flat on the table and the green baize turning black in a slowly expanding circle beneath his head. The cue was still on the bridge of his left hand. Behind him two men were grappling with his opponent who was holding a beer bottle by the neck and straining for second whack. The men wrestled him to the ground and then dragged him out as others arrived to help the man on the table. He was unconscious and bleeding badly from a serious gash on the back of his head and there is no doubt in my mind that a second blow would have killed him. An ambulance was called and he was taken away to hospital for X-rays and treatment.

I watched in astonished silence as the whole drama unfolded before me. The violence of the act was shocking enough, but the fact that I knew the two men were brothers made the whole thing far more disturbing. Even more amazing, the following Friday night they were both back in the bar laughing about the whole episode and reenacting it for those who had missed it. You would have thought that this incident alone would have been enough to persuade a 15-yearold boy to find a new place to spend his Friday nights. However, I didn’t make any effort to clean up my act until I woke up at dawn one Saturday morning half buried in snow and lying across a railway track. From then on it was table tennis at the Youth Club and home before ten. ■

To read more by Eamonn Sadler go to www.eamonnsadler.com

For the Macet Mind

is made possible by:

THE NEW

BALI EXPAT

"The driver was cleaning my car with my autographed Manchester United shirt…" Across 1. Bill — story (7) 8. The rain (anag) (7) 9. Tourist guide (7) 10. Laurence, actor (7) 11. Fruit (5) 13. Bandit (9) 15. Thing regarded as beyond criticism (6,3) 18. Devoured (5) 21. Large or misshapen creature (7) 22. Treeless plain (7) 23. Go forward (7) 24. Chest of drawers in two sections (7)

DOWN 1. West African capital (5) 2. Fool — sort of chop (5) 3. Slogan inculcating togetherness (6,2,5,7,2,4) 4. Pangs (at birth or death) (6) 5. See 3 (13) 6. Heart disease (6) 7. Method of sound reproduction (6) 12. South American carnivore (4) 14. Have a meal (4) 15. Ape-like (6) 16. Sculptor of the Three Graces (6) 17. Floor covering (6) 19. Beat (of the heart) (5) 20. Indigent (5)

Answers in the next edition!

ANSWERS FOR EDITION 31

ACROSS — 5. So far so good 7. Trio 8. By the way 9. Airport 11. Jetty 13. Chase 14. Set free 16. Immature 17. Grip 18. Near the bone DOWN — 1. Afro 2. Bribery 3. Booth 4. Tone deaf 5. Straight man 6. Draw the line 10. Pass away 12 Get even 15. Mufti 17. Grow

Send us the funny things you hear new expats in Bali say and you (plus a friend) could be attending the next Bali Comedy Club event as our guests! * Thanks to Martina from Canggu for this issue’s winning quote. Please contact us for your prize.

THE 100

QUIZ Scan the barcode and answer the 10 questions correctly for a chance to win 1 Night Stay at Aston Kuta Hotel & Residences, Deluxe Room, including a buffet breakfast for two. CLOSING DATE: 1st OCTOBER 2013

BALI EXPAT ◆ 25th September – 8th October 2013

Golf

6th Anniversary New Kuta Golf ‘Go Green’ The New Kuta Golf is hosting an event for its 6th anniversary. Golfers can enjoy a weekend of Shotgun Start at the beautiful New Kuta Golf. Three Shotgun Starts will take place; Saturday 26 October 2013 (at 13:00), Sunday 27 October 2013 (at 7:00 and 13:00). The tournament fees will include a goody bag and a polo shirt, as well as the green fee, caddy fee, cart fee, and player’s insurance. A range of events will keep guests entertained for the whole weekend; such as a lucky draw at every session, breakfast & lunch, trophy presenting, and many more. There will be a Gala dinner at the end of the tournament, on Sunday Oct 27, at 6pm following the closing of the tournament. Quite an exciting and eventful weekend for avid golfers. Visit www.newkutagolf.com or call (0361) 8481 333 for fee information and registration.

is great for those who plan to start, or already in, an enterprise in the Food & Beverage sector. The venue for Bali Interfood Expo 2013 is the Bali Nusa Dua Convention Center. Please visit www. bali-interfood.com for more details.

Music & Festival

Jungle Festival: Eat—Play—Learn The vibrant Bali Zoo is hosting Jungle Festival with the theme ‘Eat—Play— Learn’. Children and adults can take advantage of the cheerful vibe this event offers by participating in the activities set to take place at the Jungle Festival. There will be bazaars, animal feeding time—that’s always fun, animal education, live music, and many more. Liven up your children’s competitive spirit by participating them in an array of contests, such as the jungle story-telling competition, jungle drum competition, colouring competition, etc. Other activities that are available are wine tasting, stand up comedy, and a fashion show. Fun for the whole family, Jungle Festival caters to all age range. This event is free of entry fees. The festival runs from 11:00 to 21:00 daily, from 27 September to 29 September 2013. Come support the conservation of endangered animals and join in on the events for the whole weekend! Visit www.bali-zoo. com for more information.

Sunrise School Bazaar The first holistic school in Bali, Sunrise School, was devastated by the fire that engulfed their classrooms in 2011. They also lost some equipment and teaching tools in the fire. They are now trying to rebuild those classrooms and purchase some new equipment to ease the teaching processes. Especially important to rebuild is the disabled children’s unit, called Matahari Terbit Center. Sunrise School presents Sunrise School Bazaar to be held on 18 October 2013 to raise funds for the rebuilding of their school. The bazaar will take place from 16:00 to 21:00 on 18 October 2013. You can participate on the fun of the bazaar by participating on many activities to benefit a good cause. Activities offered at the bazaar range from art exhibitions, raffle draws, bouncing castles for the little ones, to auctions, band performances, and many more. Food and drink booths are also available. Proceeds will go to Sunrise School. For more details, please contact eventsatsunrise@gmail.com, call (0361) 735 825 or (0821) 44177 863.

Business & Networking 8th Internet Governance Forum (IGF) The Internet Governance Forum (IGF) is a multi-stakeholder forum that acts on the regulations of internet governance policies. This event will bring together stakeholders in the internet governance

debates, including representatives from sectors like governmental entities, civil society, private sectors, and the academic community. The main theme for this year’s IGF is “Building Bridges—Enhancing Multi-Stakeholder Cooperation for Growth and Sustainable Development”. IGF, together with UNESCO, stands to defend the principles of openness, privacy, diversity, and freedom of expression. Pre-event will start on 21 October, and IGF will start on the 22–25 October 2013. IGF will be held at Bali Nusa Dua Convention Center. Registration is now open. Please visit www.igf2013.or.id for further details.

Bali Interfood Expo 2013 The Interfood Expo is coming to Bali. The ever-so vibrant culinary industry of Bali can take delight in welcoming a new resource for information on foodrelated details. This event boasts many food producers, marketers, hotels, and tourism companies; all packaged in one exhibition on 21–23 November 2013. The exhibitor’s profile features bakeries, raw food material companies, herbal & health food producers, distributors, hoteliers, food & hospitality industries, as well as vendors for cooking and kitchen equipments. Bali Interfood Expo

APFCB Congress 2013 Bali will host the 13th Asia-Pacific Federation for Clinical Biochemistry and Laboratory Medicine Congress (APFCB Congress). It will gather most of the renowned scientists from the members of the federation, such as the Japan Society of Clinical Chemistry, the Singapore Association of Clinical Biochemists, Chinese Society for Laboratory Medicine, and lots more from the Asia-Pacific region. The organising committee has prepared a set of scientific and social activities and seminars to enhance scientists’ skills, and network. Topics of the 4-day program include Autoimmune Diseases, Infectious Disease, Molecular Diagnostics, Age and Sex Related Testings, and Laboratory management techniques. The congress will take place on 27–30 October 2013 at the Bali Nusa Dua Convention Center. Please visit www.apfcbcongress2013. org for details.

25th September – 8th October 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT

Classifieds are still FREE! Send in your classifieds to: ads@baliexpat.biz Next issue deadline: 2ND OCTOBER, 2013

Have something to sell? Looking for something to buy? Looking for staff? Selling property? Or need a place to live? Why not place your classified ad with Bali Expat! Your classified will be placed once for 2 weeks online and once in our printed version which has a circulation of 12,500 copies bi weekly. Classifieds: free of charge (50 words max) Send in your classifieds to: ads@baliexpat.biz

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LG 7kg washing machine front loader. Brand new rp3,7 juta (u.p rp6.1 juta+ppn) 081999571288. Sanur

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BBQ full set in aluminum case, various carving knives, places for 6. Solingam made. Superb gift for bbq-er Rp.2,5 juta. 081999571288, Sanur

Fitness Bootcamp in Ubud/Bali Fitness, boot camp and circuit training from Certified Coach. Private and groups. Feel better and achieve more! Starts Sept 24th. coach@in-ner-qi.com

Get Special Price and Discount up to 80% for Accessories only at Emax Bali 'Apple Authorized Reseller' Wr Made Seminyak, (0361) 735005. BUSINESS FOR SALE (registered PT) Licensed and Insured PADI Diving Resort, all the Diving Equipment, Furniture, Costumer Data Base. Reason for sale: leaving the country. License available to open other water sports activities. Contact: hafviana@gmail.com andrefalkao@yahoo.com

New laptop battery for Sony laptop type VGP-BPS9/S. 11.1 V/4400mAh was wrong size, brand new, never use. Bought US$75 sell only Rp. 500.000. E-mail: baliexportir@gmail.com (Denpasar) Prodigy B52 DJ system. Includes DJ stand and leads. Very compact, has 2xCD players with mp3 capability and 4 channel mixer. Great to transport to and from gigs. Rp. 8 million. Taman Mumbul. Call: 0812 375 99053

BALI EXPAT ◆ 25th September – 8th October 2013

25th September – 8th October 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT