baked the ultimate food high spring 2017 | issue 8
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baked SPRING 2017 CHAZZ INNISS editor-in-chief
AUDREY MORGAN executive editor
EMMA COMTOIS creative director
EDITORIAL senior editors STEFANI CLARK, JULIE-ANN ELLISTON & CORY FERNANDEZ asst. editors JACKIE FRERE, CAMERON JENKINS & KAYLA SPECTOR research editor TAYLOR WATSON copy editor ALYSON BEA WEBER fact checker AIDAN KIM
FOOD food director ADRIANA YORKE asst. food editor ELIZABETH GONZALEZ contributing food editor KATE BERNHARDT
DIGITAL digital director MARLENA AHEARN asst. digital director CHLOE CITRON social media editors TESS GREENBERG & NICOLE POLLACK digital food editor LEE MUSHO
BUSINESS & COMMUNICATIONS pr director SHANNON MCCANN pr associates ANNIE KELLY, MONICA NOWICKI & MARY ROSELLE faculty advisor MELISSA CHESSHER
RACHEL LOCKHART managing editor
FRANKIE PRIJATEL photo director
DESIGN illustration director ESTELLA XIAN designers JAMIE DOPPELT, JADE HOLLENBERG, KELLI MOSHER & LUCY NALAND illustrator MEREDITH SULLIVAN
PHOTO photographers ELIZA CHEN, NATALIE LIU GOLDSTEIN, EVAN JENKINS & CASSIE ZHANG Baked is Syracuse Universityâ€™s student-run food magazine. Founded in 2011, Baked aims to widen food options for SU students by introducing kitchen amateurs to cooking, highlighting local businesses and eateries, and connecting readers to the greater Syracuse food community. Baked publishes one issue each semester.
CONTENTS 06 32
Just Wing It
Cut the Shish
So Fresh & So Clean Clean
Red, White & Bleu
Itâ€™s My Food in a Box
12 48 14 50
International House of...
Hungry Hungry Horoscopes
Hop To It
Bread & Butter
Bad & Boozy
22 54 26
Letter from the Editor
don’t trust bagels outside of New York. Growing up on Long Island, you are raised to be unapologetically Long Island (pronounced LAWN-guy-land). You love your mother, pray to your pizzeria, and wouldn't dare order a bagel outside of New York. It’s pure sacrilege. But against my better nature, I decided to seek out a bagel to fulfill my breakfast needs at ‘Cuse. I had hope for Bruegger’s but their bagels paled in comparison to the ones from home. Bagels at this school are nothing short of rubber dough with a hole in the middle. I swore I’d never buy another bagel here. It wasn’t until I woke up in the usual college daze: with a head-pounding hangover, that I took a leap of faith. As I felt the life slowly draining out of my body, I grabbed my phone, opened Good Uncle (a company that recreates food from New York City restaurants) and ordered a Bacon, Egg and Cheese on a bagel. I had my doubts, but it was time to put those aside, not only for my sanity but also for that goddamn headache. Homegirl, it was like the moment you meet The One. There were rays of sunshine, wedding bells, and doves—the whole shebang. If you’re anything like me, you feel just as strongly about your hometown’s food. Whether that’s unparalleled Tex-Mex from San Antonio or whatever deep dish is (sorry Chicago, that’s not real pizza), see how your favorites fared against their national rivals (pg. 46). If it leaves you feeling a little homesick, turn to page 26 where our editors bring their favorite dishes from home to your kitchen. Don’t be afraid to step out of your food comfort zone and try out new flavors. At With Love, they feature a different cuisine every six months, with the aromatic flavors of Pakistan currently on the menu (pg. 14). Open your mouth to something new. Deliciously,
Chazz Inniss With two Z's
JUST WING IT Take your tastebuds sky-high with these four flavor-packed recipes.
By Lee Musho • Photography by Frankie Prijatel
pread your wings beyond buffalo with drool-worthy recipes so tasty they don’t even need bleu cheese. They’re super easy to make—no fryer necessary. But make no mistake, there’s nothing healthy about these finger-licking wings. Smoky Bourbon Glazed Wings For the marinade, mix 2 cups BBQ sauce with ½ cup whiskey, 6 cloves of garlic, minced, and a few drops of liquid smoke in a plastic bag. Add 20 chicken wings to the bag and marinate in the fridge for 2-3 hours. Preheat oven to 500 degrees and place wings on a rack over a cookie sheet. Bake for 30 minutes. Adapted from Myron Mixon & Kelly Alexander, Everyday Barbecue
Spicy Thai Wings For the glaze, sprinkle a thin layer of sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat, let melt, then add another layer. Repeat until ¼ cup sugar has caramelized into a syrup. Let the syrup cook for 2-3 minutes until it’s a deep amber color. Remove from heat and slowly whisk in 1 clove of garlic, finely grated, and ¼ cup fish sauce. Toss 20 chicken wings with 2 tsp. vegetable oil and ½ tsp. kosher salt in a large bowl. Preheat the oven to 500 degrees and place the wings on a rack over a cookie sheet. Bake for 30 minutes. Place cooked wings in a large bowl and coat with the glaze. Serve with chopped jalapenos, peanuts, and cilantro. Adapted from JJ Goode, Epicurious
Cilantro Lime Wings For the marinade, puree 1 cup olive oil, ½ cup lime juice, 1 cup orange juice, 1 tsp. dry oregano, 1 tsp. sea salt, ½ cup onion, chopped, 6 cloves of garlic, and ¼ cup cilantro. Set half of the marinade aside for later. Put the other half in a plastic bag with 20 chicken wings and marinate overnight. Preheat the oven to 500 degrees and place the wings on a rack over a cookie sheet. Bake for 30 minutes. Reduce the reserved marinade to ½ cup. When the wings are done, toss them in the reduced marinade. Adapted from PaleoOnTheGo.com
Cacio e Pepe Wings Preheat the oven to 500 degrees, brush vegetable oil on 20 chicken wings, and place the wings on a rack over a cookie sheet. Bake for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, melt 4 Tbsp. butter (you’ll need 10 Tbsp. butter total) in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add 3 cloves of garlic, minced, and cook until golden, about 3 minutes. Add in the remaining 6 Tbsp. butter, ¾ cup parmesan cheese, and ground black pepper to taste and cook until melted, an additional 2 to 3 minutes. Toss the wings and sauce in a large bowl, and add more black pepper to finish. Adapted from Action Bronson, Vice
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Call me, beep me, if you wanna kimchi. This iconi By Stefani Clark â€¢ Photography by Frankie Prijatel
ut out kombucha and save the sauerkraut for your hot dogs. Instead, take a cue from East Asia and make kimchi your new fermented food staple. A traditional Korean side dish, kimchi is made with fermented vegetables—typically Napa cabbage—and seasonings like garlic, chili peppers, and ginger. It boasts notes of sourness and umami, with spiciness ranging from extreme heat to kid-friendly, so there’s a kimchi for everyone. Thanks to its long shelf life, it can be made in large batches and saved. It’s commonly eaten with rice, soup, or by itself. Restaurants and supermarkets are picking up on its appeal, adding the flavorpacked dish to their menus and shelves. Using the recipe below we kimchi-ed our ramen, but it’s also great tossed with roasted vegetables, or even mixed into a bloody mary! Traditional Tongbaechu-Kimchi Cut small slits in the base of 3 to 4 heads of cabbage and split open. Loosen the leaves by cutting into the core above the stem and rinse the halves. Sprinkle ½ cup salt between each leaf, adding more toward the base of the cabbage. Let cabbages rest for 2 hours, turning every 30 minutes. Wash the halves under cold water and split into quarters. Cut off the cores and strain the quarters. Make a porridge by mixing 2 cups water and 2 Tbsp. sweet rice flour in a small pot. Mix with a wooden spoon and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, or until it starts to bubble. Add 2 Tbsp. turbinado sugar and stir for 1 more minute. Remove from heat and let cool completely. Once it’s cooled, pour the porridge into a large bowl and add ½ cup cloves of garlic, minced, 2 tsp. ginger, minced, 1 onion, minced, ½ cup fish sauce, ¼ cup chopped fermented salted shrimp, and 2 cups hot pepper flakes. Mix well until a thin paste forms. Mix in 2 cups radish matchsticks, 1 cup carrot matchsticks, ½ cup green onion, chopped, and 1 cup Asian chives, chopped. Spread the kimchi paste onto each leaf, wrapping each quartered cabbage into itself, and place into a jar or container. Store in a cool, dry place for 1-2 days to ferment. Store in the refrigerator afterward. Adapted from Maangchi.com
ic and versatile Korean dish packs a punch. spring 2017 | 9
Red, White & Bleu Upgrade your Wine Wednesday with these perfect cheese pairings.
By Rachel Lockhart • Photography by Cassie Zhang
wine and cheese party is the perfect excuse to get tipsy with your foodie friends. But no worries if you didn’t study abroad in Florence—you don’t have to invest in bougie bottles. We talked to Wine Appreciation Professor Torrey Grant, and put together four foolproof pairings that are sure to impress.
Époisses de Bourgogne & Yellowtail Pinot Noir Impress your friends with a cheese they can't pronounce. Époisses is a super soft and smelly cheese from the Burgundy region of France that pairs well with—you guessed it—Burgundy wine. But if you’re balling on a budget, a domestic pinot noir works just fine.
Mozzarella & André Mozzarella’s mild flavor allows your guests to ease in, while sparkling wine cuts through the heaviness of the cheese and wakes up your palate. If bubbles aren’t your thing, Chianti is another great pairing. It’s an Italian red that’s highly acidic, making it a success with just about any Italian dish.
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Bleu Cheese & Barefoot Pink Moscato While bleu cheese has its skeptics, it can be a real crowd-pleaser that pairs well with multiple wines. Try it with a sweet moscato or riesling—the sugar helps moderate the cheese’s intense flavor. You can even make Franzia White Zinfandel work. It’s a little on the lighter side, but the over-the-top sweetness offsets the tanginess of the cheese.
Manchego & Sutter Home Pinot Grigio It’s hard to go wrong with Manchego—its subtle cheddar-like flavor pairs well with just about anything. Manchego can be aged for different lengths of time, and the longer it’s aged the stronger it gets, so keep that in mind when purchasing. The understated flavor and texture of the cheese pair well with a sharper white wine like pinot grigio or sauvignon blanc.
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Dairy-Free Queen Go nuts for these alternative milks. Story and photography by Elizabeth Gonzalez
f you’ve skimmed the dairy aisle recently, you’ve probably noticed the ever-expanding selection of alternative milks lining the shelves. Almond milk remains one of the most popular options, but there are no limits to the legumes you can use. All you need is nuts, water, a blender, and a cheesecloth to make the nut milk of your choice.
Almond Milk Soak: at least 8 hours for a silky texture A lighter, slightly sweet flavor makes this milk great in both coffee and tea. Hazelnut Milk Soak: 8 hours to avoid gritty milk Add cocoa powder and maple syrup for liquid Nutella, or pour over your morning granola. Cashew Milk Soak: 2-6 hours This is easily the sweetest, creamiest, and least nutty milk—the perfect companion to a plate of chocolate chip cookies. 12 | spring 2017
Directions Depending on which milk youâ€™re making, place 1 cup raw almonds, 1 cup raw hazelnuts, or 1 cup raw cashews in a bowl. Add enough water to cover the nuts by about 2 inches and soak. (Note the different soaking times for each milk.) Drain nuts from the water and rinse thoroughly under cool water. The almonds and hazelnuts should feel slightly squishy and slide out of their skins. The cashews, which donâ€™t have skins, should be very squishy. Add nuts and 2 cups of water to a blender. Blend continuously for 2 minutes. The nuts should be ground into a fine meal and the water should be white. Line strainer with cheesecloth, and hold it over a measuring cup. Pour mixture into the strainer. Gather cheesecloth around the nut meal, twist, and gently squeeze to extract as much milk as possible. You should be able to strain about 2 cups. If desired, add 3 Tbsp. maple syrup and 3 tsp. vanilla for a sweeter milk. Fresh nut milk can be stored in the refrigerator for up to three days.
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International House of …
The menu changes every six months at With Love, a pop-up restaurant that features worldly cuisine. By Cameron Jenkins • Photography by Natalie Liu Goldstein
n February, Adam Sudmann spent three hours whisking a batch of chai tea—enough for 200 people—to its perfect pink hue. According to Sudmann, the founder of new teaching restaurant With Love, the combination of baking soda and green tea gives the Pakistani staple its peachy color. Since he moved to Syracuse a year and a half ago, Sudmann has dedicated countless hours to bringing international cuisine to the city. A former event planner and marketer for luxury hospitality brands, he combined his love of culture and cuisine to start With Love, which hosts different restaurateurs every six months, and serves as a classroom for culinary students at Onondaga Community College (OCC). With ocean blue walls, several maps of the world dotting the perimeter of the restaurant, and dastarkhan (read: floor 14 | spring 2017
seating), With Love prepares patrons for an international dining experience. The quaint storefront, located on North Salina Street, gives way to fragrant flavors once you step foot through the door. Aromas of ginger, cinnamon, garlic, and cumin fill the air. Currently, With Love is hosting restaurateur Sarah Robin as part of the six-month rotation. The small menu boasts dishes that reflect Robin’s Pakistani heritage, such as crunchy apple pakora, a chickpea-battered granny smith apple appetizer drizzled with a mint-cilantro yogurt sauce, and semi-sweet gajar halwa—a carrot dessert similar to bread pudding. Sudmann spent 25 years in the food industry and has traveled the world, experiencing cuisine from multiple cultures. He originally started a pop-up
Sarah Robin featured restaurateur
Lamb chops with pomegranate and brussels sprouts
food court called My Lucky Tummy, which brought cuisine from refugee communities twice a year. In an effort to streamline this idea and bring in more revenue, Sudmann sought out a partnership with OCC to create With Love. He arrived at the name after several instances of trial and error. “I had a bunch of names. With Love. Pen Pal. A lot with the similar theme of writing letters,” Sudmann says. Collaborating with OCC’s workforce development program gave the restaurant federal funding and helped to make his vision a reality. Every member of the crew—the host, servers, and line cooks—are learning on the job. Their two to three hour shifts at the restaurant, along with setup and break down, account for their education through OCC workforce development. Sudmann says this opportunity is a last resort for
many of his students—at With Love, they can build up their references and work history while improving their craft. The idea of a learning restaurant attracts a crowd hungry for adventure. “People have been receptive so I think it’s going well,” says Sudmann. Most people seem to like it and are enthusiastic when they come.” At the end of their meals, patrons receive postcard-themed surveys along with the check. The cards ask for a reflection on the quality of the meal and service as well as what cuisine they would like to see the restaurant feature next. Sudmann’s hope is to continue to try to bridge the gap and bring people together. “The way that we portray people that are new here [in America] is not accurate, generous, decent, or American. Food is just one way to appreciate people.” spring 2017 | 15
TO IT New incentives for beermakers to use locally sourced ingredients have "farm breweries" cropping up across New York State. We followed the journey of the first, Good Nature, from farm to glass. By Audrey Morgan â€˘ Photography by Evan Jenkins
erched on a barstool in the tap room of her brewery, Good Nature, with an IPA in hand, Carrie Blackmore explains the difference between various jars of malted barley as her 13-monthold son, Johnny, looks on. “What are you looking for, bud?” Blackmore asks before hoisting him onto her lap. Her husband and co-owner, Matt Whalen, appears, sweeping Johnny into his arms. As comfortable as any regular, Johnny grew up at Good Nature—his third or fourth word was beer, according to “head beertender” Anna Boland. “Carrie jokes that she’ll run a tab for Johnny on his 18th birthday for all the beer he’s spilled and glasses he’s broken,” she says with a laugh. Tap room manager Brandon Frederick recalls the time Blackmore strapped Johnny to her chest via baby carrier at a nearby event, freeing her hands to serve beer. Good Nature’s success is fueled by more than babies and brews. Founded by Blackmore and Whalen in 2012, it’s notable for being New York State’s first farm brewery. In 2013, Gov. Andrew Cuomo introduced the Farm Brewery Act, which requires at least 20 percent of hops and 20 percent of additional ingredients to be grown in New York State to obtain a farm brewing license and a New York State label for beer. By 2019 the percentage will rise to 60 percent, and by 2024, 90 percent. According to the New York State Brewers Association, there are 106 farm breweries today where zero sat in 2012. “If you think about the farm breweries, they’re all new businesses, less than five years old, and they’re all, I would say, predominantly coming from a homebrewing background,” says Rebecca Platel, who runs farm-to-glass workshops at the Carey Institute for Global Good, a non-profit organization in Rensselaerville that works on issues of 18 | spring 2017
sustainability. But even before the onset of the farm brewery trend, Whalen and Blackmore had written local ingredients into their business plan. Good Nature’s tap room sits on a quintessential Main Street in Hamilton, New York. Inside, exposed brick, pale green wallpaper, and mismatched sofas conjure images of a cozy coffee shop if the cold brew was a strong ale. The beer list includes options like The Great Chocolate Wreck, named after a famous train accident that dumped hundreds of pounds of chocolate into a nearby town, and Scoundrels & Wookies, a saison that takes its inspiration from Whalen's obsession with Star Wars. Whalen grew up in Camillus. He worked in the restaurant industry for most of his life, and spent a brief stint at Paul Smith’s College studying hotel and restaurant management until he felt he wasn’t learning anything new. “I had a degree of life in culinary at that point,” he says with a grin. Blackmore was raised in Pelham, a suburb of New York City, but she often visited her grandparents in Hamilton. She eventually returned for school at Colgate, where her grandfather taught, to study history and German. “I hold the great distinction of being less educated than the previous two generations of my family,” Blackmore says. “I wasn’t looking forward to being institutionalized for any more time.” Instead, she moved to the Adirondacks after graduation, where she worked at Camp Tree Tops, an alternative junior boarding school and summer camp. There, she served as farm manager. She harvested food with the kids, brought their bounty into the kitchen, and prepared it with the chef: Matt Whalen. The pair became close enough that when Whalen moved to North Carolina
for an executive chef position, Blackmore planned to visit him for a couple days. Those two days became a week. “We kind of ended up falling for each other,” Whalen says. Blackmore and Whalen moved to Hamilton in 2010 with the goal of starting a business. It only took six months to conceive the idea for Good Nature. “I asked her to marry me first,” Whalen says with a shrug.
local ingredients was spurred by the long history of hops in New York State. Although most people think of a craft IPA when they think of hops, the crop serves as a key ingredient in most beer, imparting a bitter flavor that balances out the sweetness of malt. In 1890, New York produced 90 percent of the 40,000 acres grown in the country. But thanks to Prohibition and
GOOD NATURE is just starting to write contracts for sourcing its hops. That explains Whalen’s attendance at Empire Brewery’s NY Hops Showcase, which serves as speed dating for local brewers and hop farmers. Though they originally planned to use their backgrounds to start a farmto-table restaurant, the idea proved challenging. Inspired by a night at a neighborhood bar, a realization that no “hyper-local” option existed for patrons, and Whalen’s home brewing background, the couple decided on a brewery. On a mattress in their living room — all they could afford at the time — the two created their business plan. Whalen would run the brewery; Blackmore the business side of things. They found Foothill Hops Farm in Munnsville, just eight miles from the brewery, and started experimenting with recipes developed around local ingredients. In 2012, Whalen and Blackmore opened a production brewery with the former tap room onsite. They reclaimed part of the original bar for the new location on Broad Street, which opened in 2013 thanks to sections of the farm brewing law that allowed farm breweries to serve beer by the glass and to open satellite locations. Whalen and Blackmore’s plan to use
the outbreak of diseases such as downy mildew and verticillium wilt, the business slowly died out in New York State. Karl Siebert, director of the brewing program at Cornell, attributes hops’ ability to thrive in New York to the state’s ideal climate and location. Alpha acids, which give hops their characteristic bitterness, get triggered by a change in day length from 14 to 16 hours, which means the crop thrives about 35 degrees north or south of the equator, Siebert explains. New York State lies on the same latitude as hopgrowing states in the Pacific Northwest such as Washington and Oregon and countries like Germany and the Czech Republic. According to Steve Miller, a hops specialist and senior resource educator at Cornell, 15 acres stood in New York State for growing hops when he started his job in 2011. But today, that number has risen to 400. Hops owe their recent success, in part, to the Farm Brewery Act. But Miller doesn’t doesn’t give all the credit to farm breweries. The Craft New York spring 2017 | 19
Act, signed into law in 2014, allowed all breweries to open up to five satellite locations and sell beer by the pint in tasting rooms, incentives that were previously exclusive to farm breweries. These provisions helped to spur the rise of small microbreweries in the state, which now number over 200. “[Farm breweries] are just one part of the market,” Miller says. “The farm brewers aren’t going to buy hops that aren’t good quality, and they’re not going to pay exorbitant prices for them either.” While they’ve used hops from both Foothill and the newer Mojer Farms, Good Nature is just starting to write contracts for sourcing its hops. That explains Whalen’s attendance at Empire Brewery’s NY Hops Showcase, which serves as speed dating for local brewers and hops farmers. A weed-like aroma punctuates the brewery at Empire’s new farmstead location in Cazenovia, which includes a farm for growing hops, herbs, lavender, and other vegetables. Bearded thirtysomethings in logo tees and older gentlemen in button-down shirts mingle over long foldout tables with samples of the crop, sipping on beer from the tap room next door. On the tables, cone-shaped green hops sit among small pellets that have been milled to dissolve in beer, speeding the brewing process. Around 15 attendees crush the samples between thumb and forefinger to release the herby aroma, and then mark sheets of paper that document their rankings of the hops’ qualities, from color to smell. Diane Gerhardt and Randy Lacey, a husband-wife team from Hopshire Farm & Brewery in Ithaca, say they’re looking for a greener color and a smaller size, better to concentrate the flavor. While Hopshire Farm, like Empire, chooses to add value on-site by growing some of its own hops, Whalen 20 | spring 2017
and Blackmore prefer to rely on farms in the area. “We’re not professional farmers and we don’t want to be,” Whalen says. “People are passionate about supporting and working with local companies — I know that’s why we do it, and that’s why we don’t grow ingredients. It allows us to work with people that already do it and support other local businesses and families.” Good Nature’s small scale, however, makes it difficult to produce enough beer for both the tap room and other distributors. That stands to change, as the couple tackles a $5 million expansion project that will include a new facility down the road and a takeout restaurant with Whalen at the helm. Though they’ll brew five to seven times their current yield, Blackmore and Whalen want to keep it small. They like the idea of a family company, but they also can’t outgrow the farmers, whose
the demand. To address this issue, he suggests a co-op model where farmers share resources, and scale the smaller farms up without a huge investment. “Another thing a New York farmer can do to help out is plant unique varietals,” Stempel says. Miller, on the other hand, hesitates to describe the flavor of New York hops in distinct terms. This year, he conducted research on 250 hop samples, and reported on his analysis at the Cornell Hops Conference in December. “Oils will express themselves at different levels depending on where they’re being grown,” Miller says. He notes that a Cascade hop grown in New York will taste different than a Cascade grown in Washington, but researchers still have to learn what exactly makes them different. “I will say that brewers are happy with the hops they’re getting,” Miller concedes. ••• hops take a couple years to grow. Since costs run high, the sudden demand for hops could pose a problem to the hops industry in New York State. Starting just an acre of hops costs $15,000 to $20,000, according to Miller. Beyond hops, “barley is especially challenging,” says Paul Leone, executive director of the New York State Brewers Association. “The challenge is to make sure the barley and hops industries keep up with the breweries.” He mentions, however, that breweries have the option of a dual license that will allow them to brew both local and non-local beers if they can’t source 100 percent locally. Nathan Stempel, who wrote his thesis for the MIT Supply Chain Management Masters program on hop farming and runs his own farm, Hill Tops Hopperation, on the side, thinks that the supply for hops won’t be able to meet
n a chilly day in mid-November, Whalen works on the construction site for the new brewery in a red fleece, jeans, and a Good Nature baseball cap. He stands atop a ladder that puts him at eye-level with a contraption composed of shiny silver vats and various knobs and pipes — Good Nature’s new filtration system that will extract as much liquid as possible from the local grains it sources. “I like putting these things together because now I know how it works 100 percent,” he says. “I know every pipe and where it goes, so I don’t have anything to worry about. If something happens I can come in and fix it.” As Good Nature prepares for expansion, he admits that he sometimes misses the days when brewing was a hobby. “It was a lot of fun,” Whalen says, and then pauses. “I kind of wish I could do it again.” spring 2017 | 21
Bread & Butter A behind the scenes look at how the 122-year-old Columbus Baking Company makes its daily bread. By Madeleine Fournier • Photography by Eliza Chen
olumbus Baking Company does bread better than anyone. In fact, that's literally all it does. Using the same four ingredients—flour, water, salt, and yeast—as a base recipe, it’s been out-baking the competition since 1895. An unassuming red-brick facade houses the bakery’s Pearl Street location in downtown Syracuse. Inside, the smell of warm yeast envelops the tiny space. Flat, round, and pointed Italian loaves
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wrapped in white paper line the metal wrack behind the counter. In the back, bakers use wooden paddles to slide freshly-kneaded dough into rustic black ovens. On a typical weekend, the bakery sells over 1,000 loaves of bread, and donates anything unsold to churches in the community. Owner Jimmy Retzos Sr. attributes the bakery’s success to its tradition. “The bakery hasn’t changed in 100 years— we’re known for that,” Retzos says. “If it isn’t broken, we won’t fix it.” spring 2017 | 23
The bakery hasn 100 years—we're k
n't changed in known for that. Ââ€” Jimmy Retzos Sr.
columbus baking co. owner
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Baked editors share their favorite family recipes. Join us at the table with six traditional dishes. Food Styling by AdriAna Yorke Photography by Evan Jenkins
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It’s traditionally served as an afternoon snack or dessert, but in my family, it was the one thing we would always have on California’s rare rainy days. Sweetened condensed milk is poured on top of the warm chocolate rice, making it the perfect indulgent treat.
At almost any function you can think of (birthdays, weddings, graduations, etc.), pancit is always on the table. The big batches of pancit always lasted through the week, and they're one of the few leftovers I’ll actually eat. — Stefani Clark, senior editor
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My mom and I still make these cookies to this day. They immediately make me think of Christmas morning with my family, eating cookies for breakfast.
Whenever I think of pierogi I think of my grandmother's kitchen. Growing up I would spend entire weekends making hundreds at a time with her. Now it's a great way for me to feel at home no matter where I am. â€” Adri Yorke, food director
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Sometimes my mother makes tostones as a side dish at dinner. Tostones are the perfect crunchy snack that might just make you forget about potato chips.
ENSALADA DE AGUACATE (AVOCADO SALAD)
Simple and easy to put together, avocado salad is a common side dish in many Cuban dinners. The softness of the avocado, the crunch from the white onion, and the tart flavor of the red wine vinegar make for a hurricane of texture and taste. â€” Cory Fernandez, senior editor
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Pancit Bihon Boil 2 chicken breasts; let cool, then shred. Soak 1 lb. rice flour noodles in cold water. Add 1 onion, diced, and 2 cloves of garlic, minced, and heat oil in a large skillet or wok. Add garlic and onions. Saute until onions are almost clear in color. Slice 1 medium-sized carrot and 2 celery stalks into small rounds. Add chicken, carrots, and celery to wok. Add 1 cup of chicken broth (you’ll need 2, 32 oz. cans of chicken broth total) and cook until carrots and celery are clear and soft. Add 1 small head of cabbage, shredded, and another cup of broth. Season with salt and pepper. Let pancit cook for 7 minutes. Add noodles and more broth as needed. Cook until noodles are clear and soft.
Pierogi Mix 2 cups flour, ½ cup water, 1 egg, and ½ tsp. salt together. Knead until smooth. Cover dough and let sit for 30 minutes. Boil 3 large potatoes, peeled and chopped, in salted water. Cook until soft. Drain and rinse. Add 8 oz. sharp white cheddar cheese. In a separate pan, saute 1 small yellow onion, chopped, and 2 cloves of garlic, chopped, until translucent. Add half of onion mixture to potato mixture. Roll out dough to 1 cm. thick. Use top of a glass to cut out circles. Fill each circle of dough with one teaspoon of potato and cheese filling. Fold in half and pinch ends together. Seal with a fork. Drop in hot boiling water and simmer for 8 minutes, until pierogi float to the top. Drain and fry in butter with remaining onions and garlic for a few minutes until heated through.
Tostones Cut the peel off of 1 green plantain. Cut the peeled plantain into 2-inch thick slices. In a skillet or deep saute pan, cover bottom of the pan with oil, and bring to medium heat. Place plantain slices in oil for around 4-5 minutes. After, remove slices from oil with a slotted spoon. Use a plantain press (or any flat surface) to flatten each slice individually. After each slice is flattened, place them back in the oil for a few more minutes until they’re darker in color. Take out of the oil and top with a sprinkle of salt. Head to bakedmagazine.com for more recipes.
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BBQ PINEAPPLE PORK SERVES 6 Cube 2 boneless pork tenderloins. Cut 1 pineapple into large chunks. Slice 1 red onion into large triangles. Using a bamboo skewer, skewer pineapple, pork, and red onion. Spread 1 Tbsp. barbecue sauce onto each cube of pork. Cook on a preheated grill over medium high heat until cooked through. 34 | spring 2017
ASPARAGUS DILL SALMON SERVES 6 Cube 1 salmon fillet. Cut 1 bunch of asparagus into small spears. Slice 2 lemons into thin round slices. Using a bamboo skewer, thread lemon slices, and skewer salmon pieces and asparagus. Sprinkle dill over kabobs. Cook on a preheated grill over medium high heat until cooked through. spring 2017 | 35
BLT WEDGE SERVES 6 Cut 1 head iceberg lettuce into wedges. Slice 2 tomatoes into wedges. Using a bamboo skewer, skewer lettuce and tomato wedges, and thread 3 bacon strips per kabob (18 total). Cook on a preheated grill over medium high heat until cooked through. 36 | spring 2017
HONEY THYME CHICKEN SERVES 6 Cube 2 boneless skinless chicken breasts. Cut 2 nectarines into large wedges. Using a bamboo skewer, skewer nectarine and thread chicken. Brush 2 tsp. honey onto cubed chicken and sprinkle fresh thyme leaves over kabobs. Cook on a preheated grill over medium high heat until cooked through. spring 2017 | 37
ZUCCHINI RIBBON SERVES 6 Using a mandoline, slice 2 yellow squash and 2 zucchini into long, thin strips. Using a bamboo skewer, thread yellow squash, zucchini, and 6 oz. prosciutto. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook on a preheated grill over medium high heat until cooked through. 38 | spring 2017
HOT PEPPER SHRIMP SERVES 6 Slice 2 limes into thin, round slices. Using a bamboo skewer, skewer 3 hot peppers per kabob (18 hot peppers total) and 3 shrimp per kabob (18 shrimp total) and thread limes. Cook on a preheated grill over medium high heat until cooked through. spring 2017 | 39
SO FRESH & SO CLEAN CLEAN Give your diet a spring cleaning! These good-for-you recipes don't skimp on flavor. Recipes & Food Styling by Elizabeth Gonzalez Photography by Frankie Prijatel 40 | spring 2017
PANTONE GREENERY SMOOTHIE BOWL
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POWER TO THE PROTEIN BOWL
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SPRING ROLLS THREE WAYS
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PANTONE GREENERY SMOOTHIE BOWL Break 3-4 bananas into pieces and freeze at least 8 hours or overnight (you can keep them in the freezer for a week). Blend bananas, ¼ cup nut milk, a handful of spinach, 1 tsp. vanilla, and a pinch of salt. Place in a bowl and top with kiwi slices (fresh or candied), and lychee. Sprinkle with coconut flakes, chia seeds, pumpkin seeds, and flax meal and other toppings of your choice. Serve immediately.
POWER TO THE PROTEIN BOWL Rinse ½ cup rice or quinoa well. To enhance its flavor, try toasting it in a pan for about two minutes until it's slightly brown and crackling. Place rice in pot and add 1½ cups water. Allow pot to come to a boil, add in ¼ tsp. adobo seasoning or Italian seasoning, and ¼ tsp. salt. Simmer for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender and most of the water has evaporated. While it’s cooking, cook 1 medium sweet potato, cut into matchsticks, in a pan with 2 tsp. olive oil over medium heat. Add in salt and pepper. Cook 10-15 minutes, until sweet potato is tender. Assemble rice/quinoa, sweet potato, ¼ cup edamame, ¼ cup corn, ½ medium bell pepper, cherry tomatoes, sliced, and avocado, sliced, in a bowl.
SPRING ROLLS THREE WAYS Fill a large bowl with warm water. Dip 6 sheets of rice paper in warm water for 2-4 seconds each. Lay the wet rice paper on a large cutting board or a nonstick surface. For tropical mango roll, lay ¼ cup mango, sliced, ¼ cup greens of your choice, ¼ cup cucumbers, sliced, and 4 grapes, halved, horizontally across center of each sheet, leaving 1-2 inches at each end for folding. For kiwi roll, lay ⅓ cup coconut sticky rice, ¼ cup mangoes, sliced, and 3 kiwis, sliced. For avocado roll, lay 3-4 avocado slices, ¼ cup carrots, shredded, ¼ cup white rice, and a squeeze of lemon juice. Place the fruits and veggies that you want to be seen from the outside of the roll first. Place greens and rice on top. Fold the left and right edges of rice paper in, and then, beginning at the bottom, roll up. Enjoy with sweet and sour sauce for added flavor. Head to bakedmagazine.com for more recipes.
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Is Starbucks better than Dunkin? We surveyed 100 students on the best regional foods in a battle of the bites. MEXICAN
VS. TEX-MEX 48
CALIFORNIA MEXICAN 52
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DUNKIN' DONUTS 28
Don't worry, we can count! Some answers don't add to 100 because some participants couldn't make up their mind and skipped a question
PIZZA CHICAGO 14
NEW YORK 86
NEW JERSEY 24
NEW YORK 75
KANSAS CITY 12
VS. CAROLINAS 23 MEMPHIS 27
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IT’S MY DICK FOOD IN A
Skip the grocery store—these four food subscriptions deliver. By Jackie Frere • Illustrations by Estella Xian
HELLOFRESH PRICE: $9.99/meal (serves 2 adults), $8.74/per meal (serves 2 adults and 2 children)
HelloFresh is best for beginners who want simple recipes with improvisational options on the recipe cards if they need it. Its meals include American classics like burgers and New York strip steak. Jamie Oliver partnered up with the company in 2015 to give home cooks access to his high-quality dishes, like creamy mushroom pork chops. HelloFresh also provides 10 new dishes each week from its team of professional chefs, so longtime customers won’t repeat their meal kits or get bored.
SPOON UNIVERSITY WITH CHEF’D PRICE: $99 (2 meals, 6 to-go meals, 10 snacks, 5 fruits)
Chef’d recently partnered with Spoon University to cater its meal kits to college students. Each box contains two preproportioned meals that the chef chooses online, like the BBQ chicken flatbread or apricot glazed mahi-mahi quinoa bowl. It also comes with six “grab n’ go” meals such as hummus wraps and overnight oats, ten snacks and drinks, and five fresh fruits for busy students who want to stay healthy.
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ay goodbye to GrubHub, and take your pick from more than 100 food subscription services in the U.S. With each paid subscription, a cardboard box arrives at the beginning of the week filled with everything needed to cook a meal—typically dinner. Kits include a recipe card, along with carefully proportioned ingredients, measured and ready to go. The simplicity is enticing to new and seasoned chefs alike. Technomic Inc., a food industry analyst company, released a study in 2016 stating that the global “meal kit” market topped $1 billion. We searched for the best subscriptions on the market to give you the tastiest foods for the right price. These four meal kit companies ship to Syracuse—all you have to do is pick your meals online and dust off your apron.
BLUE APRON PRICE: $59.94 (3 meals for 2 people), $69.92 (2 meals for 4 people)
Created in 2012, Blue Apron was one of the first food subscriptions on the market. You’ve probably seen celebrities like Michael Phelps repping the brand on Insta. The box includes easy-to-follow steps and fun facts about the origin of the meals. An average meal like za’atar-spiced chicken takes about 45 minutes to make (meal prep included). Bonus: The company offers an extra wine club service. Six premium wines (and pairing suggestions) can be delivered monthly with your food boxes.
PURPLE CARROT PRICE: $68 (3 meals for 2 people), $74 (2 meals for 4 people)
Purple Carrot is a completely vegan food subscription service. The plant-based meals come with recipe cards that have photos for each step, which makes cooking incredibly easy. If non-vegan eaters are looking for completely new dishes to try (think miso-chili “meatballs” or tofu tikka masala), this is the meal kit to pick. The brand also teamed up with football player Tom Brady to create vegan “performance meals” with athletes in mind. spring 2017 | 49
HOROSCOPES We looked to the stars for your foodie future. (All signs point to pizza). By Rachel Lockhart • Illustrations by Estella Xian
AQUARIUS (JAN. 20–FEB. 18) Nothing bores you more than a dull meal. Experiment with spices this month and you just might find a new favorite dish. This summer, seize the opportunity to bring your passion for activism to the table. Try adding more organic and responsibly sourced food to your grocery list. PISCES (FEB. 19–MAR. 20) It’s time for you to crank some music, and use your artistic talent to get creative in the kitchen! Escape reality by trying out some of the impractical but totally gorgeous food trends out there. You can start with one of our floral drink recipes on page 54. ARIES (MAR. 21–APR. 19) When it comes to food you’re adventurous but impatient. You love being the first of your friends to try a new restaurant, but laboring over a meal isn’t your thing. Consider trying one of the meal delivery services we review on page 48. TAURUS (APR. 20–MAY 20) You love to cook, but tend to play it safe—sticking to tried and true recipes. Take a risk every once in awhile, and challenge yourself with a dish that’s out of your comfort zone. Plus, this summer is bound to be busy for you, so start investing in meal prep. GEMINI (MAY 21–JUNE 20) You’re a better cook than you think you are. Test your skills with a few intricate kitchen techniques, and you’ll be surprised at how quickly you learn. To celebrate your newfound talent, get your friends together for a potluck this month. 50 | spring 2017
CANCER (JUNE 21–JULY 22) Let your love of water inspire you this summer, and try out some seafood dishes. Since you enjoy experimenting in the kitchen, you’ll find yourself making everything from fish tacos to paella. Once you’ve mastered a dish, don’t be afraid to show off to your friends. LEO (JULY 23–AUG. 22) Treat yourself to a nice dinner out this month. It will instantly lift your spirits! But if you’re running a little low on cash you can always make a decadent meal at home. Dress up your budget meal with plenty of fresh herbs and vibrant summer veggies. VIRGO (AUG. 23–SEPT. 22) Healthy eating is important to you, and you’re one of the few who are still on their New Year’s diet. Take advantage of our clean eating recipe spread starting on page 40. It’s chock full of nutritious recipes that are a breeze to make. LIBRA ( SEPT. 23–OCT. 22) You hate conflict and are often considered the peacekeeper of your squad. If you feel some tension building, try cooking a meal together—it requires the cooperation you crave. Make a killer playlist, stock up on wine, and you’ll have everyone dancing. SCORPIO (OCT. 23–NOV. 21) Take the time to clean out your pantry this month, and use up some of those ingredients lingering in the back. You’ll take pleasure in challenging yourself to find recipes for what you have, and spending time in the kitchen will help you relax. SAGITTARIUS (NOV. 22–DEC. 21) Your curiosity and passion for life drive you to travel more than anyone. Take a free weekend this month and plan a food tour of your state. Hit well-known spots and undiscovered gems, trying everything from greasy diner food to high-end cuisine. CAPRICORN (DEC. 22–JAN. 19) This holiday season, make an extra effort to spend quality time at home. Lend a hand in the kitchen and you’ll learn the secret to an old family recipe. Or switch it up with a recipe from our traditional eating spread on page 26. spring 2017 | 51
SU alum and Executive Director of Epicurious, Eric Gillin, dishes on food in the social media age. By Stefani Clark • Photo courtesy of Epicurious
ric Gillin bounced between publications like Esquire and Cosmopolitan before joining the Epicurious team he now leads. As Executive Director he oversaw the publication’s historic redesign that helped shift the brand from an online recipe database to a must-have for home cooks. And after six months of “blood, sweat, tears, and about 90,000 lines of code,” he introduced the Epicurious app. How is technology changing the way we eat? The first place my mind goes is Instagram and Facebook. You've got generations of kids who maybe didn't know where their food came from. And now they're seeing all of these pictures of food they’ve never eaten, followed by videos of how that food comes together. The question I ask is what happens when a generation of eight-year-olds is watching people make nam prik and massaman curries on Facebook for fun? What does that do to cuisine going forward? What new foods and tastes and things will emerge from this moment? It's kinda like when radio happened and people from all over America heard blues for the first time. You got country music. You got R&B. You got rock and roll. You got gangsta rap. What’s the food trend of 2017? Food is kinda the new rock and roll, ain't it? I think the fact that people are now defining themselves more by how and what they eat than what music they’re listening to is pretty much the biggest trend. We have food tribes. We have Whole30 plant-forward pseudo Paleo people, unapologetic fast-food convenience store connoisseurs, farm-to-table locavore omnivores and everyone in between, from extra-gluten to glutenfree and back again. Hopefully, the novelty of rainbowcolored food is wearing off, though. Head to bakedmagazine.com for the rest of the interview.
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Bad & BOOZY Champagne showers bring May flowers.
By Lee Musho â€¢ Photography by Frankie Prijatel
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orget flavored Svedka and Malibu. When the clouds break in Syracuse, you’ll want to drink in spring. Literally. With these floral cocktails on the menu, your squad will actually believe you’ve spent summers in the Hamptons. They’re fresh, elegant, and simple enough for amateur bartenders. Cheers to the sunshine that’s just around the corner.
Violet Lavendar Champagne Cocktail
In a shaker, combine 1½ oz. gin, ½ oz. lemon juice, ½ oz. simple syrup, and ⅛ oz. creme de violette and shake well. Pour mixture into a champagne flute, and fill glass to the top with champagne. Garnish with lavender.
Chamomile Honey Bourbon
Make 2 cups chamomile tea, using 3 tea bags, and let cool. Muddle an orange and a lemon in a shaker. Pour in 2 Tbsp. honey, 1½ oz. bourbon, and tea. Shake and pour over ice. Garnish with fresh chamomile flowers.
Blood Orange Sour
In a shaker with ice, mix 2 oz. gin, 1 oz. blood orange juice, ½ oz. lemon juice, 1 Tbsp. honey, and 2 dashes of Regan’s Orange Bitters. Strain mixture into chilled glass and garnish with an orchid.
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