Fox & Bailey Gazette - Issue 4

Page 1


- 2025

Buying a pre-owned watch is an opportunity to own a rare or discontinued timepiece, and sometimes even an investment that appreciates over time. You also might save some money. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or a first-time buyer, knowing how to navigate the preowned watch market is essential for making a smart purchase.

Pre-owned watches can hold or even increase in value, especially if they are from High-end brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, or Audemars Piguet. For collectors, pre-owned timepieces are often more affordable than buying new, making them a great entry point into luxury watches. On top of that, purchasing pre-owned supports the circular economy which aims to keep materials in use for as long as possible. Here are some key tips to help you shop smart and buy with confidence.

1. Choose a Reputable Seller

(Like Fox & Bailey Watch Shop)

When buying a pre-owned watch, choosing a reputable seller is one of the most important steps you can take to protect your investment. Trusted sellers will provide clear details about the watch’s condition, service history, and authenticity. Look for sellers who offer verified authenticity guarantees, return policies, and service warranties.

2. Insist on Documentation

Ask for the original papers, service history, and warranty card. These documents help verify the watch’s authenticity and match serial numbers. Having the original box and papers can also enhance the resale value.

3. Verify Authenticity

Check the serial number and inspect the craftsmanship. A genuine watch should feel well-made and function properly. If you’re unsure, it’s best to have the watch authenticated by a professional, ideally an expert on staff at Bailey’s, giving you added confidence in your purchase. This

extra step can help you avoid purchasing a counterfeit.

4. Assess the Condition

Examine the case, bracelet, and movement for signs of excessive wear, scratches, or non-original parts. While minor wear can add to the charm of vintage models, ensure all features like chronographs or date functions work as expected. If the watch has water resistance, verify that it still holds up with a proper pressure test. Our shop has a pressure testing machine for exactly this reason. You definitely don’t want to test it in the water first.

5. Understand Value Retention and Investment Potential

Certain brands and models are known for holding their value better than others. Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet are among the top performers in the pre-owned market. Limited edition pieces and watches with celebrity or historical provenance can appreciate significantly over time.

While all vintage watches are pre-owned, not all pre-owned watches are considered vintage. “Vintage” typically refers to watches that are at least 25 years old, generally made before the year 2000, and often show signs of age like patina or wear. Pre-owned watches, however, are usually more modern timepieces that are not yet considered vintage. Both types can be

valuable, but vintage watches often require a more detailed inspection to ensure they’re original and in good condition.

In 2025, the pre-owned watch market is stabilizing after a period of decline. Major brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe saw price drops in 2024, but prices are now beginning to level off. Younger buyers are entering the market, looking for both investment opportunities and sustainable fashion.

At auction, rare watches with uniqueownership histories continue to fetch record prices, highlighting the ongoing demand for exclusive pieces. This makes it an excellent time to buy, especially for models with strong value retention.

When buying a pre-owned watch, always choose a reputable seller and insist on complete documentation. Look for watches from well-known brands that are likely to hold or increase in value. Don’t be put off by minor signs of wear, these can add character, especially in vintage pieces. By staying informed about market trends and being patient for the right deal, you can confidently add a valuable timepiece to your collection. |

THE MYTH OF WATER RESISTANCE: WHAT YOU SHOULD REALLY KNOW

“Water-resistant.” It’s printed on dials, engraved on casebacks, and often tossed around as if it means waterproof. But the truth is: it doesn’t. And understanding what it does mean, and doesn’t, can save you from a ruined watch and a costly repair.

Let’s start with the distinction. Water resistance is not a blanket protection against water. It means the watch has been tested under certain controlled conditions and passed a threshold of pressure. This is typically measured in meters, ATM (atmospheres), or BAR (One bar equates to around 10 meters). None of these means the watch is invincible underwater.

Think of it like wearing a rain jacket in a storm. It may keep you dry for a while, but if you’re caught in heavy rain for hours, eventually, water will find a way in. Similarly, watches can resist moisture, but not indefinitely, and not under all conditions.

One of the biggest misconceptions is that water resistance ratings represent the depth you can dive to. That’s not the case.

The ratings come from lab tests, not real-world conditions. In testing, watches are kept stationary, at a consistent temperature, and subjected to controlled

A SIMPLIFIED WATER RESISTANCE GUIDE:

30M (3 ATM) – Handles splashes and rain, but not swimming.

50M (5 ATM) – Can take some light swimming.

100M (10 ATM) – Safe for swimming and snorkeling.

200M (20 ATM) OR MORE – Built for diving.

pressure. Real life adds variables: temperature swings, sudden movement, soap or chemicals, and pressure spikes (like jumping into a pool or blasting a watch with a hose) can all exceed those test conditions.

Water resistance in watches isn’t new. Rolex launched the first waterproof case, the Oyster, in 1926. It was a revolutionary design, using a screw-down crown and caseback to keep moisture out. That laid the groundwork for decades of innovation.

In the 1950s, Blancpain introduced the Fifty Fathoms, developed specifically for divers. This was followed by icons like the Rolex Submariner and the Omega Seamaster. These weren’t just waterresistant, they were tool watches made to survive the depths.

Today, water resistance has evolved even further. Some models boast ratings over 1,000 meters and feature helium escape

valves and ultra-thick sapphire crystals. But for most people, those features are more about assurance than necessity. Still, it’s good to know the difference between a desk diver and a dive-ready tool.

Water resistance is not permanent. Gaskets wear down. Seals dry out. Opening the case for service or battery replacement can compromise the integrity if it’s not properly reassembled and pressure-tested. That’s why vintage watches, even ones that were once dive-capable, shouldn’t be trusted near water unless they’ve been professionally serviced and tested.

Let’s clear up a few common misconceptions about water resistance. First, don’t be fooled by water beading on the case. While it might look reassuring, it’s purely a surface effect and says nothing about what’s happening inside. The real test of water resistance lies beneath the surface, not on it.

Second, a higher depth rating doesn’t guarantee better protection, especially if the watch isn’t used properly. Even a professional-grade 300-meter dive watch can fail if the crown isn’t securely screwed down. In other words, the numbers only matter if you follow the rules.

And finally, the word “waterproof” has no place in technical watchmaking. It’s a leftover from outdated marketing, not

something supported by any current industry standard. Most reputable brands steer clear of the term entirely, opting instead to use ‘water resistance’ with specific, measurable ratings like meters or ATM.

Water resistance is a valuable feature, but it’s not an invincibility cloak. Know your watch’s rating, understand its age and condition, and if you’re planning

to get it wet, be sure it’s been tested recently. Water damage is one of the most common, and preventable, watch service issues.

Don’t trust the myth and treat your watch with respect, especially around water. |

THE STORY OF FOX & BAILEY: A LEGACY OF COMMUNITY & CRAFTSMANSHIP

At first glance, Fox & Bailey might seem like just another place to browse fine timepieces and get repairs done. But it’s much more than that. Designed to be a gathering place for watch enthusiasts, it’s a space where people can connect over a shared appreciation for craftsmanship, history, and style.

The Fox & Bailey name calls back to the early days of Bailey’s, when the company’s journey into fine jewelry and watchmaking was just beginning. In the 1950s, Bailey’s Fine Jewelry acquired Fox Jewelers, briefly operating under the name Fox & Bailey before returning to its original branding. When it came time to create a dedicated watch shop with its own unique identity, the decision to revive the Fox & Bailey name served as a nod to Bailey’s roots and the evolution of its craft.

Before Bailey’s became known as a fine jeweler, it began as a watch shop. Its founder, Clyde Bailey Sr., was a watchmaker, and timepieces were at the heart of the business. Over the years, Bailey’s expanded into jewelry, but the passion for watches never faded.

In the 1950s and ‘60s, Bailey’s didn’t just sell and repair watches, they also sold and repaired bicycles. To bring in more customers, they started carrying records. This unusual combination turned Bailey’s

into a cultural hub, where people came for music, watches, and community. When the Beatles took the world by storm in 1964, record sales soared, and there were lines around the block for new albums. In many ways, the spirit of that era (innovation, adaptation, and connection) lives on in Fox & Bailey today.

Fox & Bailey was designed to be more than just another watch retailer. Trey Bailey

wanted to create an experience that felt nothing like a traditional jewelry store. From the 140-year-old exposed brick walls to the 180-year-old wooden floors, every detail was chosen to make Fox & Bailey feel warm, inviting, and steeped in history. It’s a space where watch enthusiasts can come together, whether they’re shopping for a new timepiece, gift or even and electric bike, learning about watchmaking, or simply enjoying the atmosphere as

vinyls spin on the custom record player

At the heart of the space is a commitment to creating a gathering place for the watch community. The Bourbon bar, vintage record selection, and collection of unique timepieces make it a destination, not just a store.

Fox & Bailey is not just about selling watches, events are regularly hosted where collectors and enthusiasts can connect, learn, and celebrate their passion for horology.

In the past, Fox & Bailey has hosted a Japanese-inspired evening called Sushi, Sake & Seiko, where guests explored special Seiko models while enjoying curated cuisine and drinks. They also held a Bourbon Distiller Event, blending fine

spirits with fine watches for an evening of tastings and conversation. Additionally, organizing brand-specific gatherings featuring names like Hamilton, Glashütte Original, Norqain, and Pre-Owned and Vintage Rolex—giving collectors handson access to special releases and insider insights.

Beyond their own hosted events, Fox & Bailey offers the space for outside groups to hold gatherings, further cementing their role as a hub for the watch community.

While Fox & Bailey is built to welcome enthusiasts at all levels, they also recognize that some collectors value exclusivity. That’s why The Founders Club was created. It’s an invite-only group offering perks like early access to inventory, a personal liquor locker,

exclusive events, and more. While the Founders Club is currently full, they may introduce additional tiers in the future.

Fox & Bailey is more than a store, it’s a celebration of watchmaking, history, and the people who make this community special. As it continues to grow, they remain committed to offering a unique space for watch lovers of all backgrounds, from seasoned collectors to those just starting their journey.

Whether you’re visiting for a rare timepiece, a community event, or just to soak in the atmosphere, Fox & Bailey is a place where time is always well spent. |

THE FUTURE OF WATCHMAKING: INNOVATION VS. TRADITION

In the world of watchmaking, tradition and innovation have always shared a complicated relationship. One thrives on centuries-old techniques passed down through generations; the other constantly looks forward, embracing new materials, technologies, and design philosophies. Today, the tension between these forces is more dynamic and more relevant than ever before.

Materials like gold, steel, and brass have long been the mainstays of traditional horology. But the last two decades have ushered in an era of radical material innovation. Silicon, once considered exotic, is now integral to many high-end timepieces. Brands like Ulysse Nardin, Omega, and Zenith use it for hairsprings and escapements, utilizing its nonmagnetic properties, corrosion resistance, and low friction to reduce wear and increase precision.

Titanium and ceramic are also changing the game. Titanium offers impressive strength without the weight, improving comfort while maintaining toughness. Ceramic brings scratch resistance and opens the door to bolder color palettes and sleeker aesthetics. Then there’s synthetic sapphire: once reserved for crystals, now being shaped into entire cases, offering unmatched hardness and visual clarity.

These modern materials not only improve durability and reduce maintenance, but they also push design boundaries. Advanced alloys and composites allow for thinner cases, more adventurous shapes, and greater resistance to the elements, all without compromising function.

As new materials reshape watch design for practical performance, certain timepieces sit perfectly at the intersection of innovation and tradition. The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, rooted in 1960s space exploration, now features a modern Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement that enhances precision and durability without sacrificing its iconic look. The Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph offers a distinctly German interpretation of the classic dive watch, blending vintage aesthetics with a contemporary ceramic bezel and flyback chronograph functionality. Meanwhile, the Norqain Wild One takes a bolder leap forward with its NORTEQ carbon composite case, combining lightweight toughness and Swiss mechanical reliability, all while maintaining the visual language of traditional sport watches. Each model proves that honoring the past doesn’t mean rejecting progress, it means building on it.

It’s not just what watches are made from, but how they’re made that’s changing.

CAD (computer-aided design) and CNC (computer numerical control) machining have allowed for unprecedented levels of precision. Intricate case geometry, tight movement tolerances, and complex complications that once demanded hundreds of hours of hand labor can now be produced more quickly with stunning accuracy.

3D printing, once limited to prototyping, is starting to influence final component production. This accelerates the creative process and allows smaller brands to experiment without the financial risk of traditional tooling. Nano-coatings and frictionless lubricants are extending the lifespan of watch components by shielding delicate parts from scratches and moisture, while advanced “dry” lubricants reduce internal wear without the need for traditional oils, all without altering the watch’s appearance.

Still, many manufacturers hold the line on traditional finishing—hand-polishing, engraving, and assembly remain markers of quality. Brands are blending modern efficiency with artisanal craftsmanship, showing that embracing technology doesn’t mean abandoning tradition.

As these advancements redefine performance, they also challenge deeply held values in the watch world.

Repairability, for instance, is a growing concern. Silicon parts can’t be reshaped like metal ones, and some components made using proprietary technologies can’t be serviced by independent watchmakers. While this may not affect the first or even second owner, it raises questions about longevity—especially for collectors who expect their mechanical watches to last generations.

Then there’s the emotional side. Some purists see automation and new materials as stripping watches of their soul. A handmade movement, with its minute imperfections and labor-intensive finishing, carries a human story.

Can a machine-made part offer the same?

At the same time, watchmakers face the challenge of remaining relevant to a younger, digitally-native audience. Gen Z and millennial collectors often value function, story, and innovation just as much, if not more, than brand heritage.

Many brands have responded by combining historical references with modern updates. Reissues of vintage models now feature anti-magnetic silicon hairsprings, ceramic bezels, and quickchange straps, offering the best of both worlds. Digital engagement plays a big role, too. From Instagram campaigns to

virtual try-ons and educational YouTube content, brands are building relationships with new collectors in their own digital language.

Sustainability also matters. Brands using recycled metals, solar-powered movements, or carbon-neutral manufacturing are resonating with younger consumers who expect their luxury goods to reflect their values. Heritage alone isn’t enough, it must be paired with relevance.

If large brands are finding a balance between old and new, independent watchmakers are redefining the spectrum entirely. Freed from the expectations of

mass markets and corporate stakeholders, independents like Philippe Dufour, Romain Gauthier, and F.P. Journe blur the lines between art, engineering, and tradition.

They experiment with alternative time displays, revive forgotten complications, and produce watches in tiny numbers, each reflecting a deeply personal vision. For these makers, innovation doesn’t mean replacing tradition but building upon it. Hand-finishing is non-negotiable. Movements are often built from scratch. And yet, these watches are anything but backward-looking. They represent the cutting edge of what horology can be when creativity meets technical mastery.

What makes these watchmakers even more influential is their ripple effect. Larger brands often take cues from their innovation, and the collector community watches closely. In many ways, independents are the R&D lab for the entire industry.

So where does this leave the future of watchmaking? It lies, unsurprisingly, in balance. Innovation and tradition are not opposing forces; they’re two parts of the same continuum. The best watches today, and likely tomorrow, are those that understand this.

We’re already seeing this play out in watches that pair 19th-century escapements with 21st-century materials. Or in brands that use AI-assisted design to create movements that are still assembled and finished by hand. The key is not choosing one path over the other but using each to enrich the other.

In that way, the future of watchmaking isn’t about abandoning the past, it’s about reimagining it. And in doing so, the industry may just secure a future that’s not only more precise and durable, but also more expressive, inclusive, and enduring. |

WATCHES & WONDERS 2025

This year’s Watches and Wonders in Geneva marked one of the most vibrant and diverse editions yet, with over 60 brands gathering to showcase their latest releases. From firsttime debuts to long-awaited innovations, the 2025 show honored horological heritage and embraced cutting-edge advancements.

No watch drew more attention than the Rolex Land-Dweller, the brand’s first entirely new model in 13 years. With its patented Dynapulse escapement, high-frequency Calibre 7135 movement, and a blend of Explorer and Sea-Dweller design language, it was the event’s centerpiece. Rolex didn’t stop there, also updating the elegant 1908 with a yellow gold variant paired with a Settimo bracelet.

Patek Philippe followed with a standout of its own: the Calatrava 8 Days. Sleek in design but technically bold, it offered an eight-day power reserve with a ninth day indicated by a red marker, proof that even understated watches can pack a mechanical punch.

Jaeger-LeCoultre brought fresh functionality to a classic with the Reverso Tribute Geographic, introducing an intuitive worldtime complication that was both beautiful and practical. Meanwhile, Grand Seiko quietly set a new benchmark for precision with its Evolution 9 Spring Drive UFA, achieving ±20 seconds per year and packing it all into a compact 37mm case.

For those craving color and boldness, Hublot marked the 20th anniversary of the Big Bang with the Red Magic, a full red ceramic case built to turn heads. Its significance was as much about design as it was about celebrating a milestone collection.

Across the halls, a few unmistakable trends began to take shape, each offering a glimpse into where the watch world is headed. Jewelry-inspired pieces stole much of the spotlight. Chanel, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Bvlgari leaned heavily into high jewelry design, transforming traditional watches into wearable art. Among the standouts was Van Cleef’s Ruban Mystérieux, a cuff set with diamonds and emeralds that blurred the line between timekeeping and fine jewelry.

Elsewhere, heritage took center stage. Many brands looked to their archives for inspiration, breathing new life into beloved classics. Piaget reintroduced the Polo 79 in luminous white gold, while Patek Philippe offered elegant updates to its iconic Calatrava, proof that reinvention doesn’t always mean starting from scratch.

Color also made a bold entrance. Red dominated the scene, showing up across several collections including Hublot and Tudor’s latest Black Bay 58. Meanwhile, green played a quieter role in pieces like Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante.

A renewed focus on craftsmanship and intricate-dial work brought a sense of depth and artistry back into the conversation. Brands like Vacheron Constantin and Jaeger-LeCoultre led the charge, highlighting the kind of detail that rewards closer inspection.

And finally, a shift in audience was hard to ignore. The industry is clearly setting its sights on a younger generation of collectors. From blockchain-backed authentication and limited-edition pop culture collaborations to strategic partnerships with Formula 1,

watchmakers are widening their appeal without compromising on tradition.

Independents added a welcome layer of creativity. Dutch maker Christiaan van der Klaauw made a strong debut with updated astronomical pieces, while Genus brought orbital mechanics into the spotlight with its unorthodox time display system.

Kross Studio continued merging pop culture and haute horology, and MeisterSinger doubled down on its minimalist, singlehand approach, this time with acoustically enhanced designs. Returning names like Armin Strom and HYT also pushed the envelope, the former with resonance technology and the latter with its fluidpowered time displays. Rising talent Dann Phimphrachanh, formerly of Parmigiani Fleurier, made a strong solo debut with finely crafted three-hand models.

The event wasn’t all gears and escapements. Brands brought personality to their booths: A. Lange & Söhne served German beer and pretzels, U-Boat shared Tuscan mortadella and Prosecco, and Oris offered great coffee. Even the media center had its own following thanks to complimentary cheesecake.

Watches and Wonders 2025 reminded us that while precision, innovation, and craftsmanship are at the core of fine watchmaking, connection and creativity are what make the industry tick. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or just beginning to explore the world of watches, this year’s show had something worth remembering. |

THE RISE OF INDEPENDENT WATCHMAKERS: ARE THEY THE FUTURE?

Independent watchmakers aren’t new. They’ve long existed in the shadows of the giants, quietly crafting extraordinary timepieces one watch at a time. What’s changed is how the world sees them. As collectors look for deeper meaning, creative expression, and a human connection in what they wear, independents are finding a spotlight they’ve always deserved.

In today’s watch world, most timepieces come from large heritage brands. These companies, producing hundreds of thousands of watches per year, offer proven quality, legacy, and technical excellence. Their movements are tested, their service networks are global, and their watches are built to last for generations. But the scale that makes them reliable also limits how far they can push design, mechanics, and personal storytelling.

That’s where independent watchmakers thrive.

Unburdened by mass-market expectations, these creators (often individuals or small teams) treat watchmaking as a form of pure artistic expression. Brands like MB&F, Urwerk, and De Bethune explore concepts that verge on sculpture: satellite displays, orbital time-telling, or titanium-sprung balance wheels. Others, like Philippe

Dufour or Rexhep Rexhepi, pursue perfection in traditional watchmaking with hand-finished movements that rival anything made at scale.

But independent watchmaking isn’t just about the rarefied or avant-garde. Some

of the most exciting developments are happening in brands that are accessible, innovative, and deeply personal, right in our own display case at Fox & Bailey.

NOMOS Glashütte, Norqain, and Shinola exemplify the new wave of independent

watchmaking by blending accessibility, innovation, and personal connection. NOMOS Glashütte stands out for its modern German design ethos and inhouse mechanical movements, offering refined minimalism that appeals to both new enthusiasts and seasoned collectors. Norqain infuses Swiss tradition with a contemporary spirit, known for its adventurous style and unique customization options that let owners make each watch their own. Shinola, rooted in Detroit, brings American craftsmanship and storytelling to the forefront, creating timepieces that are both distinctive and approachable. Together, these brands demonstrate how independent watchmakers are making high-quality, innovative, and meaningful watches more accessible than ever.

Most heritage brands evolve incrementally. Beloved models like divers or chronographs may be updated over time with new materials or movement refinements. Innovation is measured. Consistency is the goal. These watches

are precision instruments backed by efficiency, not individual authorship.

Independent brands operate on a different frequency. Their goal often isn’t to perfect the past, it’s to reimagine it. Their watches reflect the personality of the maker. You’ll find cases that are sculpted, not stamped. Movements that are hand-adjusted, not machine-regulated. Dials that are painted or engraved by a single artisan. In many cases, the customer interacts directly with the person who built the watch.

Even service and maintenance are personal. While big-brand service centers rely on standardized tools and factorytrained technicians, many independents still handle their own repairs or collaborate with small shops that know their work intimately. That creates a bond between owner and maker that few luxury products today can replicate.

This isn’t just a romantic detail. It impacts how the watch lives over time. When servicing becomes part of the watch’s story, perhaps with a handwritten letter

from the maker, or a custom update made years after purchase, the piece grows in emotional value. It becomes less of a product and more of an heirloom.

Independent watchmakers are also a vital force behind industry innovation. Their freedom to experiment makes them a kind of R&D arm for the larger ecosystem. Silicon components, highbeat escapements, and even exotic materials often appear first in the hands of independents before trickling into broader production. These makers take risks that legacy brands often can’t.

So, are independent watchmakers the future?

Maybe not in terms of volume. They’ll never outsell the established giants. But in terms of shaping the conversation, influencing design, and redefining what collectors value, they already are. They represent the soul of watchmaking: the belief that time can be measured not just with accuracy, but with artistry. |

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Fox & Bailey Gazette - Issue 4 by Bailey's Fine Jewelry - Issuu