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Let’s take the humble tee shirt. What we wear usually, even sublimely, makes some sort of statement. Your favorite team. Your taste in motos. Something Wisenheimer, perhaps.
There was a time when I thought I would just wear plain Hanes tees –heather or black. But, was that not me making a statement about not wanting to make a statement?
FREE WHEELIN
Zero-Sum Game
We are all creatures of habit. Some of these are good, some bad, some really do not matter, and are controlled by situations.
the road. The guitars? A bit more difficult, as space is at a premium - although her Yamaha piano surely takes up the space of the half dozen more guitars I shoulda, woulda, coulda bought if I had talent… and money (there is that). (YOU bought the keyboard, not me; remember? – SBK)
The shelves of my closet are packed with dozens of tee shirts. I try to keep them in some sort of order. Motorcycle/ track, Rock & Roll, a bunch of Marvel /Star Trek and other tees from the World of Geekdom. What once was our grandfather’s ‘undershirts’ morphed into logos and statements in the mid-60s. Tees never looked back.
At one point Shira commented that if I buy another tee, I should get rid of one at the same time; and avoid a closet Koyaanisqatsi.
Inevitably… like the next fun thing I was watching, or participating in, I would feel the need to buy the shirt. You could never prove you’d been there without the shirt.
This led to a culling and forced relocation of some shirts and boxes tucked away through Backroads Central like some Camp Re-Fu-Gees for tees that I was unable to relinquish, even though tee shirts are easy, and are a bit like henna tattoos – semi-permanent reminders of a temporary feelings.
Further back in our home, the Zero-Sum Game was added to something a bit more substantial and expensive. Guitars.
Although I feel I have gone from simply owning some guitars to being an actual player – my collection far exceeds the worth of my talent; and where she had simply suggested the ZSG with tee shirts, she kinda stomped her little foot down after a replica ‘59 Sunburst Les Paul was discovered in the music room.
In the jungle, it is rare that one creature that is twice the size and twice as aggressive as another still fears tangling with the latter, and though I am sure I said ‘I do’, everyone else seems to have heard ‘Yes, dear – I won’t.’
Then there is the Big Kahuna of collections in our home. The motorcycles.
I am not a model, nor a member of a band or have a record contract – but I do ride for a living. So motorcycles are required.
There was a time that we seemed to be acquiring motorcycles at an alarming rate. Sport bikes, ADV machines, standards.
With my tee shirts, I could box and stash some away – only to be rediscovered and cherished years down
Surprisingly Shira has said many times, “No more guitars, buy a bike instead.” This has been heard, confirmed, and sworn on a stack of Bibles by some of my friends who would love to see me buy more motorcycles that they could borrow.
Yet, with the bikes, I have self-imposed the Zero-Sum Game.
Right now, there are just the right number of machines in the stable. Although I could manage three more if I really tried, that would limit navigable walking room in the barn; and thus the ease of getting to the Backroads Hot Wheel International Speedway… at $1.25, Hot Wheels are never, ever, part of a Zero-Sum Game.
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WHATCHATHINKIN’
Not that road
Demoncherveaux Boulevard, Ghost Face Drive, Witches Hollow Road, Banshee Street, Demon Pond Road, Goblintown Creek Road and Purgatory Road. Across these United States you will finds streets, roads, lanes and other byways that conjure up the spookiest of thoughts. They could be the most benign, attractive and peaceful place, but having been dubbed with these demonic names, the residents are doomed to always be looking over their shoulders for the likes of Sam and Dean, or worse, Rufus and Bobby.
Before we moved to this idyllic address in Sussex County, when we had to travel from Bergen County to get to the ‘good roads’ for a day of motorcycling, we wandered upon some questionably named places. For those who have explored this area, you will be familiar with Shades of Death Road and for those who haven’t, here’s a little detail. This two-lane, 7 mile road, which is really very
pleasant and enjoyable to ride, sits along a portion of Jenny Jump State Forest and abuts Ghost Lake. While the name of the road is very real, the explanation for its name is a bit shrouded. A few theories in circulation are that it was named for a malaria-infested swamp (perhaps Ghost Lake?) that caused illness and death, or that it’s attributed to the murders that allegedly took place here in the 1920s, although there’s no real proof to support this one. There is even more folklore regarding the level of hauntedness along Shades of Death Road. Some say it is one of the top haunted roads in the world. Legend has it that many years ago, a car of teenagers was driving down Shades of Death Road after the prom. The road was slippery that night and curved sharply to the left and right (which it does), winding into the dark. The driver lost control and the car crashed into a ditch, killing one of the passengers. To this day, one dark and slippery nights, you can still see the girl who died wandering that murderous curve wearing her prom dress. (Undaunted, our hero carries on…) While Clinton Road’s name is not all that scary (unless your name is Lewinsky), it, too, has been tagged as one of the most haunted and spooky road in United States and is, as well, much fun to ride. This 10-mile piece of tarmac travels between Route 23 in Newfoundland to Warwick Turnpike by Upper Greenwood Lake and is pretty desolate with an eerie ambiance. So much so, it was the subject of a movie with Ice-T, albeit not a very good one. It has been described as ‘a place where the supernatural blends with the mundane, giving rise to spine-tingling tales and eerie encounters.’
One tight curve, which hugs Clinton Reservoir, has been nicknamed Dead Man’s Curve and along with its name comes the Legend of the Ghost Boy, a young boy who drowned in the waters beneath the bridge and still lingers, The legend continues that if you dare to toss a coin into the dark waters, the boy’s ghost will toss it back to you, before giving chase. Along with Ghost Boy, there are tales of phantom headlights which tailgate vehicles, only to vanish without a trace. Surely, no one would want to actually live on either of these roads, as having the address 666 Shades of Death Road or 13 Clinton Road might seem cool but would certainly give one pause to visit. But not all unwanted addresses are due to spookiness. A couple that would bring worry to a motorcyclist would be Breakneck or Double Trouble Road, even Good Luck Drive might go the wrong way, as in ‘Good Luck with that…’ But there are those names which might just bring a chuckle or raise an eyebrow such as Mercedes Bend in Tom’s River, Goa Way in Lavallette, Manlove Ave in HightContinued on Page 8
ON THE MARK
Where have allthe Crap BikeS GoNe? (Sorry, Pete Seeger)
Where have all the crap bikes gone, long time passing.
Leaky cases and dirty carbs, handling like stone.
Where have all the crap bikes gone, they took forever passing.
Lucas lights and seizing mills, thank God they’re gone.
I was talking to Dangerous Dan the other day and ruminating about the fact that most of the bikes today are actually pretty good. The advent of automated, numerically-controlled manufacturing techniques and the need to keep the companies out of court have made most of the latest models fairly reliable and rideable. DD’s current favorites, the new Royal Enfields made in India, are affordable and have a dizzying array of styles that look vintage, but run and handle nicely. I can remember a time when, if you had an original Royal Enfield Bullet, you wished for another type of bullet with which to put the bike out of your misery. DD actually has an original and says, “Yeah, it’s crap, but I still love it.” He’s weird that way.
Remember when people said “BSA” stood for “Bastard Seized Again?” Birmingham Small Arms once turned out some interesting motorcycles, ones that the Brit press would have described as having “character” as a euphemism for
them leaking, starting, running, and handling like complete shite. I have a longstanding memory of an older guy at a vintage meet kicking a BSA-motored chopper. And kicking. And kicking. Eventually, after the frustration gods were satiated and homage was paid in sweat to the carb troll, it reluctantly coughed to life like a chain smoker answering his morning alarm. “Racking the throttle” was necessary to keep the RPMs above the combustion sustainment spot because heaven help you if you had to kick it again.
Lest you think I’m a complete Anglophobe, let us not forget when our own famous national motorcycle brand was held in various stages of esteem ranging from insane loyalty to outright hatred, especially during those dark “AMF” times when those initials meant “Adios Mother F’er.” Names like “Leaky Davidson” and “Milwaukee Vibrator” were tossed around by both doubters and worshipers alike. The first Sportster I ever rode on the Blue Ridge Parkway was hastily turned back over to its owner after I found it deafeningly loud and reluctant to turn.
Returning to Brit-bashing, let me pay tribute to the Prince of Darkness. I speak not of the recently-late Ozzy, but rather of Joseph Lucas, who in 1902 became a purveyor of some of the most vexing and damnable automotive electrical devices on the planet. The jokes abound: “Why do the English drink warm beer? Because Lucas can’t make refrigerators either.” At any vintage meet, there will undoubtedly be a number of stickers offered that attest to the unreliability of anything from Lucas, from ignitions to lighting. Add in a positive-ground, six-volt-battery system and you’ve got a sure recipe for electrical disaster. The definition of an optimist would be someone with Lucas electrics leaving a party after dark and expecting to have a headlight on the way home.
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BACKLASH
Hello, Brian & Shira!
I had such a great time on your Summer Solstice ride! It was my first time really exploring Virginia and West Virginia, and I loved every moment of it. Thank you for making up your route sheets. I know they’re not “required” but I figured you guys have been there before, and probably know some great places and beautiful roads, and I was sure right about that. Meantime, I just returned from the 45th Ramapo 500. I was surprised to NOT see you two there!
Have a great summer!
Steff Feld
Hey Guys,
I know I can speak for Gene as well, what a great group of people, rides and accommodations. Thank you for all of the work you put in. We had occasion to be in Hudson NY last weekend. Recalling your shout out to Warrens Kitchen a while back we stopped in and left with a beautiful new chef’s knife. Great find.
Enjoy the rest of the summer.
Lewis Goldman
Hi guys,
I just wanted to let you know that Teresa and I had lots of fun on the summer solstice ride. It was a hot one on the return trip on Sunday. When I got home I discovered what I thought was just a sore hand from mountain biking was actually a broken bone in my left fourth metacarpal! Oh well, it was still fun anyway and it’s getting better now.
What I wanted to ask was we are looking to do some rides in Western Mass or Connecticut in September. I know you guys have stomped around that area, but I was wondering if there was a way to search through the magazines without having to manually search article by article.. What do you
think? Is there a search feature? I couldn’t find it on the website.
Let me know when you get a chance.
All the best,
Ken and Teresa
Ken and Teresa,
Thanks for joining us and so glad you had fun. So sorry to hear about the hand and hope you heal quickly.
We have stomped a bit in that area. The Quiet Corner of Connecticut (northeast section) has always been enjoyable and most of Massachusetts, as long as you stay away from Boston, is also entertaining. We’ll put some ideas together and send them along – let us know what you discover on your own; always looking for new places. Have fun!
Hey Backroads,
Is the print edition still available? I was or should still be a subscriber. Suspected a notification somehow fell through the cracks — it is the best motorcycle magazine ever … will renew now!
… hope y’all have a great weekend!
Cheers,
Tony
Yes, the print edition is, and always has been for the past 30 years, available, as well as our weekly e-newsletter The Backroads Report. I looked up your subscription and see that it lapsed in September 2024. If you would like to re-subscribe you can do so through this link, as well as sign up for our free e-newsletter. And all our issues are available online, at no charge. backroadsusa.com/subscription
AMERICATHE BEAUTIFUL MOTORCYCLE FAIRNESS ACT
Congressman Tim Walberg (MI-05) has introduced the America the Beautiful Motorcycle Fairness Actto alleviate an unfair financial burden placed on motorcyclists visiting national parks.The legislation would amend the Federal Recreation Land Enhancement Act to require the Secretary of the Interior to issue guidance stating that one America the Beautiful Annual Pass will permit the admittance of two motorcycles into national parks. Previously, the pass allowed for two individuals to share the benefits. However, in 2024, this policy was revised to allow only one individual to be listed on the pass, thereby eliminating the option for two riders to share the same pass. While in many locations the annual pass permits entrance for the pass owner and up to three passengers in a private vehicle and the pass owner and up to three bicyclists, the annual pass only permits entrance for one motorcycle with up to two passengers. As a result, two riders traveling together on separate motorcycles can no longer use one annual pass for admission.
Let us hope this common sense and reasonable bill passes.
ROGER DE COSTERTO RETIRE
AMA Motorcycle Hall of Fame Legend Roger De Coster has retired as the manager of the U.S. Motocross of Nations team, capping a 44-year career during which he guided U.S. riders to 25 titles at the annual Fédéra-
tion Internationale de Motocyclisme World Championship event.
“I always wanted our sport to become bigger, more important and more respected around the world,” De Coster said. “This is why I raced in many places around the world besides the GPs — Argentina, Brazil, Ecuador, Peru, Australia — and ended up in the United States for good. For me, the Motocross of Nations became the single biggest race of the year, and I am very thankful to the U.S. riders and all the people who supported this event with their best efforts and gave me the support to fulfill a lot of my dreams. Thank you, all.” “There has not been a more important or popular global ambassador for this entire sport than Roger De Coster,” said Davey Coombs, President of MX Sports Pro Racing. “In the 1960s, Roger helped introduce Americans to professional motocross through the Inter-Am tour, and then showcased the sport to much of the rest of the world during his reign as a five-time FIM 500cc World Champion in the 1970s. After retiring as a racer in 1980, Roger quickly moved to America and helped lead Team USA to the top of the world for the first time in 1981, and he has helped maintain that success ever since. Throughout his time with American Honda, Suzuki, and most recently KTM, Roger De Coster has played a vital role in leading each brand to new heights on the AMA circuit. His influence and leadership contributions will be felt for many years to come.”
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Free WheeliN’
Continued from Page 3
Are there machines out there that I feel I could enjoy? Sure. But there are none right now that I am lusting after. We both have work bikes – a BMW R 1250 GS, and the Suzuki V-Strom 650 XT – we both have standards (well her, more than me), and everybody in the world has a KLR, right? But there is nothing out there that floats my boat – although we have talked about
WhatChathiNkiN’
Continued from Page 4
stown (what’s up with this one?), Gayboy, Ataboy, Highboy and Orphanboy in Middletown (who was drinking what when they came up with these) and No Name St in Washington Twp.
New Jersey doesn’t have a lock on the weirdness in street names and, while William Shakespeare may not have placed much emphasis on the significance of a name, those responsible for the creation of some of America’s quirkier street names seem to have realized just how impactful a moniker can be. Arkansas’ Farfrompoopen Road might sound German, but is really a made-up word which some say relates to the lack of bathrooms on this street. Haviture Way appears in Utah, Texas, North Carolina and California. There are Psycho Paths in MI, OK, MS, CO and FL. If you want a long, happy marriage perhaps you’d stay away from Divorce Court and choose a home on Uptha Road instead.
oN the mark
Continued from Page 5
On the OTHER side of the Battle of Britain, despite all their haughtiness about the precision of their engineering, the Germans have had their share of issues along the way. One July, I rode a BMW K100LT - in the appropriate color of shite brown - that I swear was designed to sterilize the entire male population, so great was the heat coming off the engine. It might have made a great Arctic bike, but I was never happier to turn in a used service loaner. I mistakenly pocketed the key when I took it back, but my apology was equivocated by saying, “It’s not like anyone will want to buy it anyway.” We will not speak of German “styling,” as that appears to be an oxymoron. They
a Honda Grom, simply to turn into a mini-me version of Nicky Hayden’s Repsol Honda MotoGP machine – but that might simply be a wallet-burner.
Nope, right now I think I will quietly play the ZPM.
Maybe if that Strat was somehow moved to the guest bedroom, that would open up space for that Paul Reed Smith Baritone? Maybe.
Maybe I’ll just buy a PRS tee instead. Sigh. ,
And to bring this to an end, Zzyzx Road in Zzyzx, CA, located on I-15 between Las Vegas and Southern California, just north of Baker. It’s a fabricated name, conceived by Curtis Howe Springer, who proclaimed it the last word alphabetically in the English language. In 1944, he christened the road and the entire area with the Z-lific name and established the Zzyzx Mineral springs and Health Spa on the remote spot. ,
should look to their former Axis allies for aesthetic counseling, but Ducati may have purchased voltage regulators from Lucas…
At one time, even my favorite (3 t-shirts a week) brand from blighty, Triumph, had a sketchy reputation that was eventually put right when the factory burned down and the machinery and tooling was replaced with things that actually produced fine motorcycles. There’s a certain romance to the thought of a skilled artisan hand-fitting parts to a bike; unfortunately, that romance falters when the new part you bought will not work without leaking (whether the original one did or not). Overall, however, these days you run a lot less risk of purchasing a bike with “character” no matter what brand you favor. ,
RIDE 4 MARY
On August 30, Mary’s longtime friend and fellow motorcyclist Ruth Belcher will depart from Marysville, Washington, embarking on a coast-tocoast ride in Mary’s honor.
Her destination: Portland, Maine, to attend the Women’s International Motorcycle Association (WIMA) Rally and 75th anniversary, where riders from nearly 20 countries will gather in celebration. She will be making two key stops along the way: on September 4, Wailin’ Wayne Weekend, Nelsonville, Ohio, to connect with ADV riders, and on September 5, visit the AMA Hall of Fame, Pickerington, Ohio to visit the Mary McGee exhibit with fellow riders.
Honoring a Trailblazer: Mary McGee was the first woman in the U.S. to race motorcycles professionally. She earned her competition license in 1960, competed in the legendary Baja 1000, and became the first woman to race in an AMA-sanctioned motorcycle event. But Mary’s influence goes far beyond milestones and medals.
Her humor, grit, and generosity made her a mentor and role model to generations of riders. She told stories of riding in borrowed gear and falling in the dirt more times than she could count, always getting up and going again. Mary showed us courage isn’t the absence of fear, but the choice to ride through it.
Mary passed away in November 2024 at the age of 87. Ride for Mary is an opportunity to honor her spirit and continue her story not with words, but with motorcycles and community.
To find out more please visit www.ride4mary.com/
RED BULL TRIUMPH RIDER
SAM SUNDERLANDTO ATTEMPT
FASTEST WORLD CIRCUMNAVIGATION
This September, Sam Sunderland, Britain’s two-time Dakar Rally Winner and Red Bull rider, will depart on the challenge of a lifetime, attempting to become the fastest person to circumnavigate the world on a motorcycle.
The Around the World record attempt will push the
boundaries of what’s possible on two-wheels.
As the ultimate test of endurance, the challenge is a trial of both physical and mental strength, with Sam battling the elements, road conditions, and unknown terrain.
Sam will enter more than 15 countries across five continents and the challenge will stay true to the parameters of the current world record set twenty years ago: The journey must follow a single direction around the globe ; It must start and finish at the same location; Touch two antipodal points; Cover a minimum of 18,000 miles on the bike, and a minimum 24,900 miles in total; It must be on the same bike throughout.
To achieve his goal, Sam will need to ride the equivalent of the length of the UK every day – averaging around 1,000 miles per day for 19 days.
Sam departs this September. Visit RedBull.com to follow the challenge and find out more about what Sam faces on his record attempt. ,
GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN
Jade’S 81 maiN St, oGdeNSBurG, NJ 07439
862-344-6311 • jadesog.com
Hours: Mon, Wed-Fri: 9:30am-3:30pm • Sat + Sun: 10am-5pm (Closed Tues)
Some years ago, we dined at a wonderful, cozy and very welcoming place on Spring Street in Newton, NJ. 4Chicks Café (named after Ari and their three daughters Angelica, Mariah and Hailey) served up an enticing mixture of breakfast and lunch. Owners Richard and Ariadne (Ari) Laboy did a superb job of bringing delicious food, what they dubbed ‘Hipster Brunch’ via Brooklyn to the quiet street in Newton.
Unfortunately for us, the Laboys moved to Miami in 2021 but to our great delight, in 2023, came back north and, in March of 2024, opened their new place in Ogdensburg, NJ called Jade’s, after their youngest daughter. We were made aware by one of our readers – thank you for the tip – and soon took a spin to see what they had to offer.
Situated on Main Street in Ogdensburg, Jade’s is cozy and open, with Ari welcoming all with her big smile and Richard hard at work in the kitchen. The black and white décor is a great backdrop for the skillfully and colorful dishes set before you. This time around, Ari and Richard are serving up Afro-Latin cuisine for breakfast, brunch and lunch, and the menu is equally enticing.
Richard has taken his cooking instruction and inspiration from his grand-
On to the main event, starting with breakfast. Everything in Jade’s is freshly made and you can certainly taste that with each bite. You can go with a simple (really not so simple) egg platter of 2 eggs with choice of bacon, Taylor ham (NOT pork roll) or chicken sausage, zesty breakfast potatoes and brioche toast with a side of bacon jam or up your breakfast game with Biscuits & Eggs Benny (easy eggs, bacon, guacamole, tomatoes and greens served on a buttermilk biscuit with hollandaise sauce, bang sauce and a side of mix greens with truffle vinaigrette). How about some grits & eggs or biscuits & gravy egg platter? Showing up somewhere in between, your brunch choices add Jade’s fantastic fried chicken to the menu, served with Chicken & Waffles as a sandWanamakers General Store presents
mother and Rachel Ray and added his own twists on many of his dishes. Both Richard and Ari are native New Yorkers and have brought that city vibe to the also quiet streets of Ogdensburg.
While waiting for your food to arrive, you can satisfy your caffeine urge with some of the best coffee we’ve tasted in a long time. Jade’s House Coffee is an espresso Colombian roast with a touch of cinnamon, which can be served iced as well. You can add your choice of dairy and non-dairy white stuff as well as a few different flavorings.
tasty places to take your bike
wich or a Benny. With some French toast or grits or their full on belly buster, The Hungry Man (or Woman) with 3 chicken wings, choice of waffles, pancakes or French toast, a cheese omelette and a biscuit with sausage gravy – that should take you through the whole day!
Had your breakfast already? Jade’s lunch offerings will give you some tough decisions with Street Tacos, Rice dishes, salads, empanadas, seafood dishes and smashburgers. On our visit, lunch was in order and I went with the shrimp & grits – a very healthy plate full of perfectly-cooked cheese grits covered with a boatload of superb fried shrimp and topped with a beautifully runny easy egg and a lacing of their delicious bang sauce, with just enough bite to make the whole dish tantalizing. Brian, being a sucker for fried chicken, had Jade’s famous fried chicken & waffles smothered in sausage gravy with a dusting of fresh chives and powdered sugar. Both dishes were enough for two (I brought half of mine home, Brian did not). If that’s not enough, the
sides available include waffle and dirty fries, fried green tomatoes or pickles, sweet plantains or some extra fried chicken.
No matter which direction your meal takes you, Jade’s artfully and overly filling dishes will have you stuffed but looking forward to your next visit to try more of their cooking. If you need to walk off your meal, Sterling Hill Mining Museum and Tour is right up the road, home to Franklinite, New Jersey’s state mineral, and so many other fascinating rocks and minerals. You can check out their website here: www.sterlinghillminingmuseum.org ,
Morton’s BMW Motorcycles presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTERIOUS AMERICA
Jeremiah CroW’S houSeoF odditieSaNd CuriouS GoodS North market Street, eliZaBethtoWN, pa 17022
618-625-8313 • www.thehouseofoddities.com
Some stops along the backroads of this Mysterious America can be unexpected and will pop up in the most unlikely places. The burg of Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania is the perfect example.
Pretty much the All-American town, it has a college, a bustling downtown section and, located right in the middle, in a tiny shop tucked off the main drag, you will find Jeremiah Crow’s House of Oddities and Curious Goods.
If not for the brightly painted sign and placard calling to “Keep it Weird” and “Strange and Bizarre”, you could easily miss it. But be glad you did not – as the House of Oddities and Curious Goods is packed with wonder and WTF.
I was amazed at how much eccentric bits and bobs Jeremiah Crow could shoehorn into the small museum.
I would say you will find the usual odd stuff, but then it wouldn’t be so odd now, would it?
As Jeremiah called his collection “A chamber of horrors and ‘Peewee’s Playhouse’ mixed into one.” That is about right.
We all have heard of a giant ball of twine, but neckties? What about a life-size bust of serial killer Gacy – in full clown makeup?
There was a Pringles can turned into an Urn that held the ashes of Fredric Bauer, the man who created the tube-packaged chips.
Whaaat? As we walked around, we spotted more and more. The deeper you looked, the deeper this odd pool got.
Jack Earle was touted as the World’s Tallest Man by Ringling Brothers Circus… They say he was 8 feet 6 ½ inches tall, and there are a pair of his trousers on the wall; a Fiji Mermaid hangs next to them. JoJo the Dog Faced Boy is featured, along with Han Solo in Carbonite.
We love you, Han… He knows.
Skulls, of all shapes, sizes, and unknowable creatures line the shelves, along with the rare piece of Hollywood memorabilia, and things that simply make you stop and wonder why? The ‘Bump in the Night’ Americana Lore is everywhere in this museum. Monkey’s Paw, Jersey Devil, and other Cryptids - our perennial favorite monsters. “Freaks” inspired goodies, or baddies, depending on how you liked the film from 1932. It is considered one of the most upsetting films ever made with good reason. It is celebrated here.
Jeremiah has the actual mummy from the Legendary Giants of Lovelock Cavern – a tribe of red-haired, cannibalistic giants, the Si-Te-Cah, who were said to have battled with the Northern Paiute people, in what is today the desert of Nevada. Do you have a vampire problem? Don’t we all? There is an actual Vampire Hunting Kit. We have seen and reported on these before – and can vouch for the authenticity on this one. Morbius watch out!
There is a one-eyed, club-wielding, halfman, half-goat looking to be on the attack. Voodoo, Death Masks, all things crazy, and WTF! Odd is the key word here, so the skull of a raccoon that was found in the
White House during renovation in 1952 should not surprise you at all.
Then there are the things that nobody really knows about. Case in point… ‘Bone Music’. During the Soviet run of Russia, music distribution was controlled by the government. Resourceful bootleggers ingeniously used discarded X-ray films to create and distribute illegal recordings, known as “bone music” or “ribs”. These makeshift records, often featuring images of skeletons or bones, allowed people to access forbidden music like jazz, rock and roll, and popular Western artists.
As you would think, there are plenty of House of Oddities and Curious Goods items to buy, as everybody needs to have something odd in their home. Sticker boys and girls take note.
We were on the run this day, and could only stay a short while, but Jeremiah Crow’s House of Oddities and Curious Goods deserves much more time than we could muster this day – as even when we were thanking Jeremiah, who was such a gracious and informative host, and trying to walk out the door we’d spot something else and get to talking about this other curiosity.
When we asked why he had all this, his answer was simple… “The sole purpose of the House of Oddities and Curious Goods is to showcase its one-of-a-kind items to the public, not keep it hidden in a private collection. Free admission allows the visitor to view freaks of nature, mummified creatures, and sideshow memorabilia from days past.”
When riding in this part of Pennsylvania give yourself an odd treat and stop by Jeremiah Crow’s House of Oddities and Curious Goods. It is open Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Call or check their website before you go. O’Life Out! ,
OUTTA HERE
BlaCkBurN iNN
301 GreeNville ave, StauNtoN, virGiNia 24401 540-712-0601 • www.blackburn-inn.com
Stately:
1. Marked by lofty or imposing dignity. 2. Impressive in size or proportions. 3. Looking like Batman’s home.
We have been to the Blackburn Inn, in Staunton, Virginia, once before – and we have found each time we ride up the long driveway all we can think is Stately Wayne Manor. This place certainly is just that. Heck, it was once a State Asylum for the Mentally Ill, and then a State Prison.
Today we think it is just stately, and it has a pedigree too. What today is a 49-room boutique inn, that has been open for just seven years, had its start back two hundred years ago, when Thomas Blackburn, a young architect who learned the trade under Thomas Jefferson while Jefferson constructed the University of Virginia at Charlottesville. There was a book written by Bryan Clark Green called In Jefferson’s Shadow – the Architecture of Thomas R. Blackburn just about this subject, and what a stellar designer Blackburn truly was. According to the historical notes on the inn:
Following its construction in 1828, the hotel served as the Western State Hospital until 1976. The complex consisted of 22 specially designed buildings in total. It was known to provide some of the best mental healthcare in the U.S. at that time under Dr. Frances T. Stribling.
It was a “resort-style asylum” in its early days with terrace gardens and roof walks with mountain views.
You would have to be crazy NOT to stay here.
However, this utopian style of care didn’t last long. By the mid-19th century, the facility was overcrowded, and new techniques were being practiced. The state hospital was moved to its present site near Interstate 81 in 1976, and the property was then converted into Staunton Correctional Center, a medium-security men’s penitentiary.
After the prison closed in 2003, the complex was left vacant for several years. Robin Miller and Associates then purchased the land, and have been redeveloping the site, building by building. Eventually, “The Village
at Staunton” was created on-site, and the first condominiums were sold in early 2008. Soon after, Robin Miller and Associates renovated the main administration building, which is now home to the hotel followed by the Conference Center and Spa.
During its renovations, the hotel combined modern and historic architecture with elegant touches. You’ll see this in the vaulted ceilings and intricate molding as well as the lightfilled hallways. The Blackburn is a member of Historic Hotels of America since its establishment and truly is one of the nicest places we have held a Backroads Rally.
The long driveway, grass, and fountains make a wonderful foreground, with the large inn brick building, its grand columns – four to the right and left, and four dead center; all set off with a white trim that finishes off the image.
Inside you will find a small library, and to the right side of the building a small café that serves up great bites, and has a light bar alongside it with superb brews and wine.
After the ride take an adult beverage, or two, on the porch that runs along the western side of the Blackburn and watch the sunset like we did – at almost 9 pm this solstice.
The stairs at the inn our special too… wide and hand-built, they lead to the top three floor and to the literal ‘high point’ of the inn – the spiral staircase to the cupola atop the 4th floor. There are 42 steps here, and during the hot summer, it will get even hotter as you ascend, but stepping out to the 360-degree view of the town, especially beautiful in the glow of twilight, with the motorcycles below, is well worth the steps.
All of the rooms have great modern amenities, offer high-speed internet, in-room coffee and fridge, television, and frameless glass “rainfall” show-
ers that are hot, strong, and perfect after a long day’s ride.
In truth, Blackburn could be anywhere, and still be a great We’re Outta Here! But… it is in Staunton, Virginia.
There is a superb and historic downtown, with dozens of shops and restaurants. It has one of the best Drive-In Diners in the United States –Wright’s just across the road - the Woodrow Wilson Presidential Library, Shakespeare’s Blackfriar Playhouse (we had a rally see MacBeth here years back), along with many other points of interest.
For us the Blackburn Inn has roads… so many roads. The Blue Ridge Parkway is just to the east, and then there is Route 250 and Route 33 – both into and out of West Virginia…. some of the best riding east of the Big Muddy. Staunton, Virginia, and the Blackburn Inn almost have it all – all it really needs is you. The riding season is here – make plans to explore this part of Virginia soon. ,
Warren County Tourism presents BIG CITY GETAWAY
hey Boo-Boo
a BiG City GetaWay thatiSJuStthat… aGetaWay “Hey Boo-Boo, let’s go get us a pic-a-nic basket”!
~ Yogi Bear
When you hear he phrase “It’ll be a picnic” it generally means something will be easy or simple to do. It implies that the task or situation will be relaxed, enjoyable, and not require much effort.
Picnic was originally a 17th-century French word, picque-nique. Its meaning was similar to today’s meaning: a social gathering where each attendee brings a share of the food.
daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind
Picnics just sound nice, don’t they?
Picnics are happy occasions and have always been a diversion from everyday cares. We think of the picnic as an outdoor meal, set on a blanket, usually in the middle of the day, featuring a hamper filled with tasty morsels and perhaps a bottle of wine, but historically picnics came in many forms, served at any time of the day.
Over the long 4th of July holiday weekend - when every day seemed like Sunday - Shira got a text from the illustrious and dedicated riders we call the Southern Contingent. They had a thought for a bunch of us to meet the next day at 12 noon, at a small pavilion on Mountain Lake, in Liberty Township, New Jersey.
This part of Warren County, on the western edge of the Garden State, is a joy to ride, nicely paved (mostly), and well laid out as the roads here flow and follow along the natural contours of the large hills. Atop one of these hills, you will find Mountain Lake. 122 acres in size, and with an average depth of 17 feet, and 38 feet at its deepest point, it is the oldest lake in Warren County; created some 12,000 years old from the retreating ice of the last Ice Age. In fact, this lake was on the very edge of the Laurentide Ice Sheet. As lakes go it is not the biggest, but it still holds over 67 million gallons of water, all spring-fed and as pure as it gets. Well, except for the fish poop – but that is tout natureal.
The lake is encircled by a large variety of trees - Tulip Poplar, American Sycamore, Northern Red Oak, Shagbark Hickory, American Beech, and others. At the water’s edge, you can see small fish, and the lake is stocked yearly with trout. Only sail and electric-powered boats are allowed on these waters.
At the Buckenmyer Recreational Park they have a long well covered pavilion with a half dozen picnic tables just waiting for Yogi, Boo-Boo and we riders. This was where our clarion call would bring this holiday weekend.
Our riders would be coming from north of Philadelphia, and southern Jersey region, and we’d be coming south from the Jersey Skylands.
As everybody would be bringing their own food –mostly a wide variety of sandwiches, salads, and chips – it would be interesting to see who brought what to the pique-nique.
Remarkably we all arrived on or about high noon on that beautiful Saturday that followed our nation’s birthday the previous day.
Our buddies Keene and Lisa had ridden north a bit to the Hope Café that they had discovered a few months back (along with our pavilion this day), the Philly kids brought cheesesteaks and the like – Ya think? – while others brought various delectables- and there was a lot of sharing.
The point of this Big City Getaway, that usually features a place like the Skylands Museum of Art (www. skylandsmuseum.org), or some historical site that is odd enough to be of interest, but not weird enough for O’Life’s Mysterious America, is that a simple picnic with friends can be the best “getaway” in which you can partake.
And, you can have variations on a Boo-Boo Bash. Perhaps you have some friends who all ride, and work in the same area…? Make a lunch date in the middle of the week at a nearby park. On a Sunday ride pick a great deli, that is a short ride from some wonderful picnic table and do that, rather than ride to a busy restaurant.
I’ll throw out that the Yellow Cottage, on Route 206 north of Branchville, has the best bread in the Garden State – thus some of the best sandwiches! The picnic tables atop Sunrise Mountain offer a three-state view. Go back to basics this month. Make it a Picnic Getaway – but if you really see a Yogi or Boo-Boo remember…
“Don’t feed the Bears!” ,
riverSide Creamery
5 Water Street, port JerviS Ny • 845-856-8560 • riversidecreamery.com
Seasonal: Open March-October daily: Sun-Thurs 12-9pm • Fri + Sat 12-10pm
Living on the riverside taking it all in my stride
Living on the riverside, I’m taking life like a big long ride
You stay on your side and I’ll stay on mine
You take what you want and I’ll take the sunshine
Riverside - America
In our youth, we think that everything that was had always been and would always be. As we grow, we realize that such is not the case and that our memories may be the only things that stay. In my case, even that is not a foregone conclusion.
I go through many ‘Best Of’ ice cream lists for lots of states, ticking off those we’ve visited and those on the ‘To Do’ list. In a recent New York listing that came across my inbox, the Riverside Creamery was featured. I noted the location and there was a slight niggling in the back of my brain.
Long before there was an ‘Inside Scoop’ I seem to remember visiting this location with folks we were riding with that day. Was it for a lunch stop or just a summertime treat of ice cream? Hmmm, let me do a little digging and see if my irresponsible memory can come up with something.
Nestled along the banks of the Delaware River, adjacent to the Mid-Delaware suspension bridge connecting Port Jervis, NY to Matamoras, PA there once was a flourishing restaurant/tea shop named Flo-Jean’s. From an idea born in the late 1920s by General Motors executive Harold Dalrymple and novelist Zane Grey, while fishing on the Delaware, Flo-Jean’s El patio Tea Shop, run by Dalrymple’s wife Florence and her sister Jean, was the place to go for Sunday dinners, special occasions and an always delicious and moderately priced meal. Once a Toll House, until tolls were eliminated in 1922, Flo-Jean’s enjoyed a long life and saw many families celebrate, creating lasting memories. Unfortunately, the Delaware was both a blessing and a curse, as more times than can be remembered its waters and aquatic life came through the doors. In 1955, Hurricane Diane caused major damage to the tri-state area and forced Flo-Jean’s to shut its doors. After a change in ownership, the building eventually fell into such disrepair that it had to be demolished in 2015.
The Riverside Creamery was originally used as a breakfast spot for the overnight travelers in the boarding house across the street. Florence spared no expense when designing the shop, and everything was top of the line, with the Bastin Blessing soda fountain and Batch freezer producing 6 flavors of ice cream for the shop and restaurant next door.
Riverside Creamery was renovated and restored and opened in 1999, taking special care to keep the décor as close to the original as possible. The antique soda fountain was in a state of disrepair and custom-made parts were needed to restore it to its former glory. The counter, paneling and floors are all original and the oil on canvas painting on the wall has survived 75 years and three floods. Their red leather covered seating hearkens back to the days of the old-fashioned ice cream parlor, complete with black and white checkered tablecloths, vintage posters, and the sweet smell of homemade waffle cones.
What I believed was a visit to Flo-Jean’s was actually a stop to the Riverside Creamery, now celebrating 25 years of ice cream scooping. Perhaps the decrepit building that once housed FloJean’s was still standing and that’s what stuck in my mind. Whatever the reason, I was glad that we
took a spin to the nostalgic parlor serving homemade ice cream one Sunday afternoon.
I’ll start with flavors, which are made in-house in small batches and ever-changing, so here are a few that were available during our visit: Almond Joy, Black Raspberry, Death by Chocolate, French Roast Coffee and Pistachio Nut; just a smattering to tempt your tastebuds.
My normal reviews of ice cream shops include how you can get your ice cream; cup, cone, sundae, etc. Riverside Creamery gave me much more to offer you, as their signature desserts run the gamut from a warm apple dumpling a la mode to their infamous Deep Fried Ice Cream and Dorkos. You can imagine what deep fried ice cream would be, but a Dorkos? Well, that is Oreo cookies batter-dipped and fried, topped with hot fudge and marshmallow and dusted with powdered sugar – add your favorite flavor ice cream to keep it extra decadent. And since Riverside is famous for their deep fried ice cream, I’ll tell you it’s vanilla ice cream frozen and dipped in funnel cake batter, then deep-fried and topped with hot fudge and powdered sugar. Yes, we tried that.
Some of their other creative and delicious offerings include Pecan Crunch Bread Pudding (bread pudding served warm with brown sugar pecan topping, cinnamon and nutmeg, topped with vanilla soft serve), any number of sundaes which include fresh-baked brownies, waffles or other goodies with your choice of ice cream and a plethora of toppings – don’t forget the whipped cream and cherry.
Riverside Creamery is not just about cream, they serve meals as well, including hot dogs, burgers, paninis, quesadillas and flat bread pizzas.
There are some terrific roads around Port Jervis, most paved and some not, which will certainly work up your appetite. Take a spin to the Riverside Creamery and indulge your sweet tooth. ,
It has been a long time since we had been up to ‘The Glen’, a place we always seemed to frequent over the years. Usually we would count on the BMW Finger Lakes Rally, but this rally – one of the best in the USA - slowly faced attrition and was finally ended, yet another victim of covid. I wonder how many events and good times were executed by this evil bullshit?
We had been asked by some of the Southern Contingent – a group of riders who still will ride at a drop of a hat (or helmet), and still seem to be, like Joe Jackson sang, 19 forever – to spend a few days up in Watkins Glen – but the extreme heat of the end of June, and multiple tire pressure issues ended those thoughts.
But there can always be a Plan B.
We were going to stay at the Seneca Lodge, a place that was almost a home away from home for decades, and our rooms were already paid for. They were cool enough to understand the heat issues, and to forward our rooms to another date, so almost a month later, exactly, we rolled out of Backroads
Central and began to wander north and west; and I do mean wander.
This ride would kill a few birds with one stone, as we always need to go “thataway” for the burble that fills this magazine, and we also had just taken the keys to Honda’s new to the USA NT1100 sport touring machine. I’d be piloting the NT1100, and Shira would take her venerable 919 – one of Honda’s finest for sure.
This NT1100 has been in Europe since 2021, with small changes here and there, but it is now available here, and we were happy to spend a few weeks getting to know it.
On The Road:
We all tend to fall into the same old, same old, and even a route that was extremely enrapturing a decade ago can simply not have the same blandishment it once had. So sometimes I look for something spicier to toss into the mix. Like Shira’s first attempt at Mexican chocolate ice cream, which can come with unwanted results.
This day we followed up across the state line at Port Jervis and then rode through the Hawks Nest, vectored north a bit, towards Mongaup Valley, and then west’ish through Eldred. Circling back onto Route 97, we crossed the Delaware River on the #4 Narrowsburg Bridge. A few yards into the PA side, we took a hard right onto River Road, which truly is a roller coaster of a route that faithfully follows an ancient Lenape trail that has been used by natives, the French, the Dutch, the British, and now Backroads for years.
We could have taken our tried and true and always engaging ride, but why? Especially when I found these roads here. Why have I not seen these roads before?
We hit a bit of gravel, and then came upon a “bear left” that would run us straight up the most noisome excuse of a road I have seen… well, since Virginia.
Not going up that, but Shira had another Plan B (we always do), and this road started out well, and had two school buses coming the other way. What could be bad here?
Well, that pavement suddenly ended, and it was easy and doable gravel, even with street bikes and tires. Still, her Garmin showed we were singing the Talking Heads’ Road to Nowhere, and the Apple CarPlay on the Honda was having a fit and spinning in circles. We decided the school buses were taking the bad children away to the Agloe Home for Wayward Children, and that if we kept going, we might never come back out. But coming around, we realized we had dovetailed into that noisome gravel trap from 20 miles back, and then we cleared the forest and were back on more solid ground. From here, we did our best to stay on interesting, but paved roads, generally heading towards the New York border.
For you kids that like to put a little gravel in your travel – this part of northeastern Pennsylvania is riddled with fine gravel for finding. It is hard not to get dirty here.
By this time of the day, and with the miles behind us, we were both a
bit hangry, and rather than take it out on each other, we pulled into an old hotel and restaurant, and hoped for the best. Thankfully, the Lakewood Lodge and their kitchen was open. There was just one gal handling it all, but on this afternoon, the place, which looked like it could be packed and run high in the fun factor, was empty but for us. She disappeared into the kitchen, and a quarter of an hour later, we wondered if she had left, but when Lindsey did return with our sandwiches, we saw why it took a little bit of time. Wonderful Turkey Club with all the fixins’ and a built-from-scratch Black & Blue Burger that was done just on the warm side of rare – simply perfect.
This is a place to revisit – and you know we will. We made a note to tell the boss we had the next GAADR or We’re Outta Here!
We crossed over the Susquehanna River just west of the famed Viaduct, which has been recently given a new coat of paint and looks very spiffy indeed. This would be the first of eight Susquehanna crossings we’d do in this trip – a river that has its start in Cooperstown, New York, and travels 444 miles to the Atlantic – the longest river on the east coast of the United
States. Although we have been proven dust magnets of late, we trusted the GPX Route – faithfully guided by Shira’s Garmin. (I had almost tossed Apple CarPlay and Sygic into a stream, but I did need my phone).
The route started to follow along some very rural roads, and we both had forgotten how pretty this part of the land along the border of the two states of New York and Pennsylvania was. At one point, we ran along a road, aptly called Stateline, with the Keystone State to the left side of the road and the Empire State to the right. We crossed the Sus once again at Owego. Before we left, we got a tip from Dr. Seymour O’Life about a monument worth seeking out, atop a graveyard, just outside the town. We rode the steep road to the top of the hill and did indeed find something both beautiful and with an amazing story.
story of those times we have been told again and again these days. Before we were told to be ‘color blind,’ there were many, many people who were just kind and loving, and cared with their hearts. Taking others for who they were, not what they were. The people of Owego were like this. It was a beautiful monument with the most stunning view in the region. Shira walked around the monument, and then to her bike, and removed a stone inscribed with a leaping frog from the plastic map case of her 919. She has the same image on a tattoo on her right ankle.
She jumped the fence and placed it on the now deeply patinaed bronze plaque at the bottom with the coins and other signs of respect left for this native woman.
Inscribed on it were the words, “A Daughter of the Forest. By Adoption a Child of God.” We then learned the sad tale of Sa-Sa-Na, her life, death, and how a town of “white” people reached out with kindness and love. Not the
The rest of the day was spent riding north along New York’s Leatherstocking region and into the Finger Lakes area. We passed by Robert H. Treman Park – a gorge that might surpass Watkins Glen in beauty. A short while later, we were running down the edge of Seneca Lake and to the town of Watkins Glen and our home for the next few nights, the Seneca Lodge. This
lodge has been around since the 1940s and has seen anyone who is anybody in American road racing pass through its doors.
It has 80 cabins and rooms, a great restaurant, and a bar that has been on our Top Ten on the Planet for decades – and we know our bars.
It is also right next door to Watkins Glen Park.
The Glen itself is amazing and is probably the most famous of the Finger Lakes State Parks, with a reputation for leaving visitors spellbound. Within two miles, the Glen’s stream descends 400 feet past 200-foot cliffs, generating 19 waterfalls along its course. Yes, the region might be named for the Finger Lakes, but the gorges are gorgeous, and just as much reason to ride to the region.
We grabbed our cabin room, and with the bikes parked for the night, went to see if the Seneca Lodge bar was as cool as we remembered. It was, and getting to hang with the owner, Brett Brubaker, and crew, for a part of the evening certainly brought back some superb memories.
Planes, Tracks, & Ducks… and Sexy Schooners:
That could almost be a movie name.
But we’d try to work all that in on a day trip around the ring and middle fingers of these lakes that dominate the central part of New York State - Keuka and Seneca.
Although first settled for the waterfalls, gorges, and lake commerce, this region truly became noted for its auto racing. This all began on October 2, 1948, when Watkins Glen served as the venue for the first post-WWII American road race. This inaugural race attempted to revive road racing in the United States, bringing the excitement and prestige of European road racing across the Atlantic. Cameron Argetsinger’s had an outlandish dream of creating an
international road racing circuit in the remote Finger Lakes of Upstate New York, and these races were held on the streets and through the hills of Watkins Glen itself.
In 1956, the dedicated race course was opened and became home to the US Grand Prix for twenty years. The last such race was held in 1980, and it was my first time at The Glen, and I became a fan of this track ever since, and we have attended numerous CLASS track days here.
Today, you can ride the original road course, which has its start/finish line clearly marked as brick memorials on either side of Franklin Street, in front of the Schuyler County Courthouse. You will also see a Drivers’ Walk of Fame stones in the sidewalk on both sides of the street honoring racers who competed on the original road course.
Our first stop this day would be at The Glen, if only to see who was running this day, and take in the ambiance.
Like a lot of New York, you can be running along pristine pavement for miles, and then that pavement will suddenly end to be replaced by gravel and dirt roads – usually leading to a steep hill in both directions.
We did a little, and it got tiring with these machines, so a quick re-routing brought us west along the high road between the lakes.
We passed just north of the tip of Waneta Lake, and then down into Hammondsport and an almost required visit to the Glenn Curtiss Museum. Curtiss was once the fastest man on Earth – and he earned that on two wheels. He was a legend and pioneer in the field of aviation, and changed the way men flew. Today, the Curtiss is a large 60,000 square foot facility that has a collection of aircraft, vintage motorcycles, automobiles, and aircraft engines… many that you will never see anywhere else. We are always amazed at how this museum always seems to add something we have never seen before with each visit.
We cannot speak highly enough about Glenn Curtiss or this museum at the southern end of Keuka Lake. Hammondsport itself is well worth exploring on a nice afternoon, and it was once voted “The Coolest Town in the USA!” We can see that.
Our route this day headed north along Keuka’s western edge, past the many vineyards and wineries, some up and bustling, others now looking like massive mausoleums – waiting to be revamped into a new vineyard, wedding venue, or secret evil lair. Some would make great evil lairs.
The road between the lakes can be a lot of fun, especially when it follows the natural lay of the land – and better, with these bikes, when freshly paved; and that they were.
The last time we traveled this way, Shira had been very excited about an ice cream stop called the Spotted Duck, outside the small hamlet of Penn Yan, that has the claim to the World’s largest pancake created in 1987 and filled the griddle to a whopping 28 feet. That is a lot of syrup and butter.
Not surprisingly, the Spotted Duck uses actual duck eggs in their creation of ice cream, which is said to add a richness and creaminess to the custard. They also had been named the Best Ice Cream in Upstate New York. Sadly, that day they were closed, but today they were open for business, and boy…did they have business!
We rolled up, parked, and perused their bountiful selection, made our choices (Shira got a flight, like a brewery), and took a comfortable picnic table in the shade and enjoyed one of the nicest days of the summer so far. Afterwards, we visited the ducks – that have a
story all their own, but I am sure she’ll give you the Inside Scoop on the Spotted Duck. We looped up and around Seneca Lake, and south along its eastern shore, riding by the old U.S. Army Depot that was once a full 11,000 acres and was believed to be a store house for our nuclear arsenal, and is now home to a herd of albino deer – we are not sure if there is a connection or not; but you can visit them for a small price and a short bus ride through the old depot.
For us, we had other plans, and that brought us back south, past the scenic Hector Falls – home to Backroads’ very first rally, and then to the marina at the bottom of Seneca Lake, where we followed a lead from a month backfrom the very day our previous plans to Watkins Glen got canceled.
That day, which saw us zipping along an interstate nursing an ever-deflating rear tire, I saw a large SUV come past us with a very nautical logo that said S/V True Love. It was a schooner now sailing on Seneca Lake.
I took note of the name as it was the title of a late, great Robert Palmer song. The previous night, at the Seneca Lodge bar, I saw the same logo on
a woman’s sweatshirt. I ran the image through the rolodex in my mind and remembered where and when I had seen it.
I picked a conversation with her and learned that the 67-foot schooner sailed every day, and they would love to have us join them to see Seneca Lake from the water’s point of view.
So that is what we did. The True Love has a storied history – it has been in movies, seen some of America’s greatest corporate men and women, sailed, and sunk in the Caribbean. Now she plies the waters of this great lake, and this was one of the few times I have been on a real ‘sailing’ vessel. It is a fabulous and fun thing to do, and you might even be able to help a little here and there as the sails are raised, lowered, and tacked. We learned a bit about sailing, and a bunch about the history of the lake, and got to meet some nice people as well.
Evening saw us parking the bikes, and strolling through town, finding a little dinner, and enjoying the fading day – that was what every summer day should be.
Heading Home…
Still looking for something different roadwise, I plotted a route south from Watkins Glen, into Pennsylvania, and began to follow, and then cross the Susquehanna River again and again, doing our best to follow the river south. We’d pick up US 6, then veer off onto some county roads, only to run back into US 6 some 20 miles later.
US 6 runs 3,200 miles, from the tip of Cape Cod, all the way west to Bishop, California, and it has some interesting history, and I always look at historical markers, as you never know what you will find – like Camptown Races. Yes, the famed piece of Americana, from the pen of Stephen Foster, was inspired by horse racing and social interaction that he observed while traveling through the region in 1850. Being that betting on horses was considered immoral and a bit illegal in places, the “Camptown ladies” may have been shady too, with all that dooda-dooda. The bedrock of Americana is to be discovered if you only look!
We took lunch at a small diner in a strip mall called T & C Grill. Many times, we riders blow right past a place like this, as strip malls are, well, strip malls. But T & C Grill in the tiny town of Tunkhannock did a super job, and we enjoyed how this tiny, but well-done grill, celebrated its region.
We still had to cross the river yet one more time, in Pittston, before vectoring east and through the Poconos, and some more familiar pavement, and then crossing the first river we crossed, the Delaware, at the private Dingmans Bridge – some 40 miles south of Narrowsburg.
From there, it was a short hop to the drive at Backroads Central. This time around, our trip was a short one, just three days, but it is amazing how much we can squeeze into just three days, if you plan well, and be willing to ride away from your plan if needed. It is all good, right? We were out riding and Watkins Glen and the Finger Lakes were a great place to explore. Ride Smart. Ride Well. Ride the Backroads ,
Jimmy Buffett’s last album had a tune called Bubbles Up. About how, when underwater, following the bubbles, and where they go, can bring you to the surface and better times. Bubbles can make your life, or make your life bad. It depends on the situation.
I had been having a slight issue with my rear brake. It worked, but had far too much play, and the pedal was far too spongy and soft.
Although the system had not been opened since a BMW factory swap of the original Hayes calipers for new Brembo calipers, over time, it seemed to me that the rear brake was hardly there.
I rarely rely solely on the rear brake, but this was not right and needed to be addressed. I could have flushed the entire system, but with ABS systems and linked braking, that was a bit more complicated than I thought I needed for what I believed to be a tiny amount of air trapped along the line.
The fix was quick, simple, and relatively cheap – a One-Way Brake Bleeder Valve. This tiny valve allows brake fluid to pass in only one direction, and needs no compressor or vacuum to operate.
The clear plastic hoses are locked in place by strong clips, and you simply attach the hose to the bleeder valve on the caliper leading to the One-Way Valve, and have the hose come out of it into a bottle to catch the brake fluid.
The One-Way Valve is clearly marked in the direction the brake fluid will flow. The fluid can only flow in one direction, so you can open the master cylinder and the bleed valve at the same time and simply pump the brake fluid through the line.
Be VERY CAREFUL not to let the master cylinder run dry, or you will have a major headache. Keep a close eye on the fluid level, and what fluid looks like coming out of the caliper. In this case, I had an immediate run of tiny, almost pin-size bubbles come out with the fluid.
Keeping the master cylinder at the correct levels, I continued to pump fresh brake fluid through the rear system until there was ONLY fluid, and no air bubbles to be seen. Once satisfied, I closed off the caliper’s bleeder valve and made sure all the levels were correct in the master cylinder as well.
When all was tight, wiped down, and solid… it took just a few pumps to get a super feel on the rear brake, and the spongy issue that I had been dealing with and, sadly, ignoring, was fixed.
One-Way Brake Bleeder Valves are available from a wide variety of sources, and Amazon brought a set to our door for about 10 bucks…
Money well spent, we think. ,
When some riders see the letters DCT, they roll their eyes and ask, “Oh, isn’t that the automatic bike?”
My response: No – it is a Dual Clutch bike. It can do all the shifting for you. It does not have a clutch lever. But, its paddles are much cooler than those on your pickleball court. Ride it before you comment further.
I have ridden Honda’s DCT machines. A good deal, racking up almost 10,000 miles on these machines in the decade and a bit. NC 700, Africa Twin, VFR 800, and Gold Wing. I came very close to buying an Africa Twin
DCT for my own ride a few years back. When you get it, on its very quick learning curve, you see how the DCT works so well, in so many situations.
Not all, but most.
Like all things, there are pluses and minuses. But let’s talk about this machine in particular. The NT1100 was introduced in 2021, specifically for the European market, where it quickly became one of the most popular motorcycles on the continent.
This year, the machine got a major upgrade in Europe, and Honda has now brought the NT1100 to the USA. Here on this side of the pond, it is only available in the DCT version and in Pearl Hawkeye Blue.
Honda has a very specific market in mind for this bike – basically, the very demographics that make up the bulk of our readership. The 40s till whenever riders, who are looking for a capable touring machine that will offer day long comfort, and still be able to bring a devilish smirk to the rider’s face while blasting through the mountains and along the backroads.
Every motorcycle has competition at which the manufacturer will be aiming when bringing the new entry to the market. With the NT1100, I would think, it would be the GSX-S1000GX+ ($19,000) and the Kawasaki Versys 1100 SE LT ($19,500). If these were famous action film actors, the Suzuki, with that beast of an engine, would be Jason Statham – bad ass and very rough around the edges. The Kawasaki is a very smooth bike; so Bond, any James Bond (‘cept Roger Moore). The Honda would surely be a Denzel Washington character. Solid, quiet, and polite – but going to get the job done every time.
Never underestimate Denzel, and at a base price of just $11,899, you will have enough money left over for popcorn.
The NT1100 is basically a re-worked Africa Twin. Don’t think of this as a
bad thing, as I said, the Africa Twin came very close to having a permanent home at Backroads Central. The 1,084cc liquid-cooled parallel-twin engine and the NT’s frame are borrowed from the Africa Twin, but the geometry and suspension are more road-worthy than trail-bound. The engine is controlled by three different power modes - Rain, Urban, Tour, plus two other User Settings that can be customized for power, engine braking, and traction control.
Look-wise, this machine could not be more different from its brother ADV machine. The fairing and tail design are very sleek and use DURABIO, a bio-based engineering plastic that provides toughness and other features required for motorcycle bodywork parts. Interestingly, DURABIO can be given a glossy, sophisticated look just by adding colorants. The added value given by the ability to eliminate the convention-
al painting process was a major factor in the decision to adopt DURABIOfor this application, marking its first use for paintless bodywork for motorcycles.
The blue on this bike is very striking, and they have two other colors available in Europe. The one they call Ash (more of a champagne) is beautiful and should be in the States as well.
Just saying.
This machine had the optional saddlebags that will add another $1,200 to the base price. A matching top case can be had too, but they work well, can each hold a full-face helmet, and do not detract from the looks in any way. The entire package is very sharp.
The NT1100 uses the same TFT instrument screen as they have on the Africa Twin, and it can utilize Apple CarPlay, or Android – both of which are great for music, or phone calls –
but don’t get me started on apps for GPX files, or that the TFT takes 15+ seconds to fire up. Every time you start the bike. Many TFT-equipped motorcycles do this, but most take perhaps 5 seconds to cycle through. I was in a hurry one day, and it was like having to watch 10 movie trailers before the main feature.
Most of the TFT screen can be controlled by the right and left switch units. The right on the NT1100 is very doable. The left has 16 separate buttons. Will you learn all these controls? Maybe. I had this bike for a few weeks and got semi-good around these switch units – but it is not, in any way, intuitive; and none of these buttons can work the suspension, which was only “hard to get past issue,” with this otherwise super “Play Every Position but Pitcher” machine.
The European model now has electronically controlled suspension, and all the adjustments that go with this. Hmmm? I am not a suspension sorcerer, and I understand that, to offer this machine to the American rider at such a juicy price, concessions had to be made…
That being said, I did turn up the preload (the only adjustment) on the rear, a few clicks, and that leveled the bike out for my slightly beefy frame. This sorted most of the light feeling in turns, and for riders just looking to have a great weekend of riding, or for day-to-day commuting, the NT1100 as is, will more than fit the bill. There is always the aftermarket, and even if you felt you needed to turn your Gentleman’s Sport-Tourer into a wanna-be track bike, you still will have some serious weight left in your wallet. That being said, the NT1100 DCT comes shod with Dunlop GPR-300 tires, which work fine, but a set of Dunlop Roadsmart IV tires would not have broken the bank, and would make the bike’s feel and flavor go from decent to great - more confident never hurts.
For the average rider, under 6 feet, this bike’s riding position is perfect. Taller riders might feel a bit cramped, and I had to stretch out every few hours. The stock seat is an allday affair.
On the road, once the suspension was somewhat sorted, and I was set with a custom User mode with lots of power, engine braking, and 50% traction control, the NT1100 settled in nicely, and tighter sections of road became far more charming. Adding to the long-range capabilities of the Honda is
the fact that it comes standard with an adjustable windscreen, cruise control, and heated grips, and carries enough fuel to go 175 miles between fill-ups.
When you add all this into the mix, and it’s very alluring entry fee, I can see why Honda would sell so many of these machines in Europe – and they probably will do the same in the US as well.
Just to put that savings into order, with that $7,500, you can buy a Honda Grom, a Martin D-28 acoustic guitar, and 100 + Hot Wheels.
That’s substantial, and who isn’t happy now?
Be aware to the fact that this is not just an old guy’s weekend warrior, but a perfect bike for younger riders with tighter budgets that are looking for a great allaround machine that has plenty of power, good handling, and all-day comfort. Couples who just bought that first house? Well, the NT1100 would look very nice in that semi-attached garage next to the Subaru. Just hope the wifey doesn’t have too much of a crush on Denzel. ,
No matter where you are, you are my true love
And I thank the lucky stars above for true love
There was never any doubt about it True Love • Robert Palmer
As we related in the main story, our discovery of True Love was pure happenstance, as seeing a large SUV wrapped with logos of a schooner on a lake 300 miles to the north gets your attention. It also helped that it was the title of a truly sexy croon from Robert Palmer, an artist who is revered in the hallways of Backroads Central.
When we found we could spend a few hours sailing on the True Love, we jumped at the chance. This ship was one of seven designed and built by John G. Alden, whose ships went on to some of the greatest sailing races in the Roaring 20s – 100 years ago.
Commissioned in 1925 by Elmer J. Bliss, Venona II (TRUE LOVE) was built in 1926 in Wiscasset, Maine, by Pendleton Brothers Shipyard. After Venona II’s sister ships gained notoriety for their sailing records, Venona II was eventually renamed True Love, among other names, and went on to make a reputation as a movie star. True Love made her movie debut in the 1940 romantic comedy, The Philadelphia Story, where she appeared as a miniature model of herself. This movie would go on to produce perhaps one of the most famous sayings in modern sailing; when Katharine Hepburn said, “My, she was yar.”
systems where her masts were stepped, or removed, enabling her to travel through narrow passageways and underneath bridges. True Love is not only a symbol of American sailing history and American naval architecture, but also a representation of the love of generations past, present, and future. Those who set sail with this truly majestic boat on the waters of Seneca Lake will feel as if they have fallen in love all over again.
There was never any doubt about it…True Love! ,
Sixteen years later, in 1956, True Love would make her life-size debut in the musical film High Society, starring Bing Crosby, Grace Kelly, Frank Sinatra, and Louis Armstrong.
There is the famous scene where Bing Crosby serenades Grace Kelly with the song “True Love,” composed by Cole Porter, while onboard the True Love. Not nearly as slickly concupiscent as Robert Palmer’s, but it worked in the 50s; even if it looked to us like Bing was singing to a gal that could have been his daughter. Ahh, Hollywood. After her movie career, True Love retired to St. Thomas, where she sailed for well over half her life. In 2003, she was completely restored by David Call and his crew of craftsmen to the beauty and sophistication she represents today.
In 2008, she was purchased by Schooner Excursions Inc. and made the long journey north to her current home at the Seneca Harbor Park Pier in Watkins Glen, the heart of the Finger Lakes region. This trip north entailed thousands of miles of offshore sailing, and hundreds more miles up rivers and through canal
The Law Office of Paul Gargiulo, P.C. presents
Welcome to the Jungle - The
Art of
Learning to Ride Skillfully
A column dedicated to your riding survival
retire
The Big R word. Retire. We seem to hear this word more and more these days. Maybe it is that we are all getting further along on our own journeys. More miles down the road, more wear and tear. The bumps we hit along the way seem to hurt a bit more, and the sharp curves we run into along the way…? Well, once we were sure-footed and steady. Maybe not as much these days.
Where cold and rainy days were once just part of the deal, maybe we think twice before venturing out. Hell, things just are not like they used to be.
So, these days, when I hear ‘retire’ in a crowded room, I perk up and try to hear what is being said.
There are some of us who have a plan for years now, and a specific thought of how they will handle the inevitable. Some others won’t consider any sort of retirement – no matter what.
I can hear them… speaking with a semifalse bravado that “Hell, it’s all good. It’s all worked well for years now. Look, I still got some tread left.
I still got a few more good years! Sorry, dude. You probably don’t.
Age and years of a hard life will surely, and eventually, take everything and everyone down a notch, but then there are those unexpected occurrences that can come out of the blue and cause all sorts of problems and quickly sideline you, or worse, have you carted away to somewhere they can help. Maybe.
You could be putting along, just fine and dandy, ‘cause everything is running fine and dandy and then – Pffft! Yup, that is you on the sidelines thinking about that last gasp of air you have. It bites to be flatlined. But it happens. Sometimes it can happen multiple times.
Those who run through their lives, and miles, without a care can be the happiest riders you will meet on the road; as they say, ignorance is bliss. Then these folks can find themselves on their back, with their friend standing around wondering how to help, and what to do.
Maybe they should not have pushed it. Perhaps they should have had a plan. One that would let them relax a bit – maybe they should have retired when they could. Now it might be too late. So sad.
Sometimes I think of retiring, and I actual have many times. Lord knows how many times I have preached in this magazine that if you think it might be time to call it quits and retire, then you should.
But, this obviously doesn’t make a difference when mayhem shows up and causes a bit of crisis in your day’s ride.
Trying to practice what I preach, I retired my BMW GS just before our Summer Solstice Rally. Yet, even with brand-new Dunlop Mutant Tires
properly installed and inflated, I had an issue on the backroads of Virginia. Running through a sweeper on Route 33, my rear tire clipped something hard enough to lift the rear wheel off the ground – with both Shira and me on the bike. Whatever it was, it was sharp enough to puncture the tire too –and miles down the road there I was, on my back looking at the tire, with Shira standing around wondering how to help and what to do. Across the road, I spotted Dean Winters smiling. He waved and disappeared.
I plugged the rear tire as best I could, but the next three days were one of a limping ride at best. I would go for 75 miles, the tire would “flat” line again, and I would have to resuscitate it.
When I did get back home, I was a little more deflated when a number of local shops told me they no longer patched tires from the inside. It was an insurance thing, and I understood.
I reached out to Dunlop – just to answer the query to which I already knew the answer. They said it was time to retire.
No… it was sad, but even this early in life, it was time to, once again, retire. It hurt a bit, well, my wallet, but in the long run, it was the right choice to be made in life. All is good now.
Maybe it is time for you to retire.
Maybe you should do so, before it’s too late, and you’re not able. ,
