sarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip &Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibility of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.
In his 1936 paper, The Unanticipated Consequences of Purposive Social Action, Robert K. Merton wrote about things that can happen that were not intended or foreseen; although this can, many times, be a bad thing or series of events. They can arise from a variety of sources, including ignorance, errors in analysis, prioritizing short-term interests over long-term ones, and even the self-defeating nature of some prophecies. Henry Ford once said, “If you think you can, or you think you can’t, you are probably right.” So, stay positive as, sometimes, Unintended Consequences can be a good thing. Murphy, and his law, be damned. Indeed, many things that started in one direction, led to another with positive results.
While not a direct social action, the accidental discovery of penicillin by Alexander Fleming revolutionized medicine and had a profound positive impact on global health. The sinking of ships during wartime or deliberately for reef creation has resulted in the formation of artificial coral reefs, benefiting marine ecosystems and recreational diving. Another key and positive unintended consequence is an unanticipated benefit that emerges from an action. Adam Smith’s notion of the “invisible hand” is one example of a positive unintended consequence. Smith famous-
ly argued that each individual pursuing his own ends generates widespread benefits beyond that individual.
Anthony Robbins speaks of the Mastermind Principle – when a group of people come together for a specific task - a task made far easier and far more successful with the help of additional people set on the same goal.
Okay, where is all this leading, you ask?
While riding we sometimes have thoughts drift in and out of that gray matter that should be thinking only of riding. We’re human – so it happens, and this is where my thoughts wandered.
When we first began our Backroads Rallies decades back, we really were just looking to see if we could have a small gathering of readers/riders who would like to spend a few days on the road. And, that was what happened… but then those Unintended Consequences began to pop up.
Unintended Consequence.
More and more riders began to show up for these rallies.
Then, over the years many became really good friends. Friends they never would have met if we never did any of these rallies.
Unintended Consequence.
Folks have met and gotten married because of Backroads Rallies.
Some riders who might have lost interest in, and maybe would have simply stopped riding, are still on the road.
Seeing other riders, riding different machines and in different ways has positively influenced some riders. Those who had never thought of working on their riding skills, or taking a riding or track class, have because of the
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the LUCkofthe draw
I used to be really good. I used to be what Brian calls a ‘Road Whisperer’. People would compliment me on the wonderful route I had given them. Riders came into our destinations with smiles on their faces, giddy from the day’s adventure. I was happy. I was confident. I was – key word… There is a saying – ‘use it or lose it’ – and perhaps that applies to my ability to map out a route which begins and ends with pleasure, without a middle section of ‘OH MY F’ING GOD, WHERE THE HELL IS SHE TAKING US?!” Sure, I have also been known to put people on some questionable unpaved paths, perhaps a forest trail or two, but during this past Summer Solstice Rally, the ride I designed from Shippensburg to Staunton fell apart so incredibly and quickly that I was hitting my helmet on the tank in despair over what I was leading our ralliers into.
Yes, most people were pleasant, telling me it was okay, these things happen. There were no incidents (that I knew of, anyway) and all made it to the Blackburn unscathed from rabid dragons or bridge trolls. But that didn’t ease my angst or queasy stomach over my complete FUBAR to a task that is really pretty simple.
Many months ago, when Brian and I decided to put the onus of the routes on our travelling companions, Notso Happy and Pepe the Monkey, I had no
idea that poor Pepe would suffer such a horrific fate because of me. I put together what I thought was a really terrific ride on BaseCamp; checked it half a dozen times to make sure there were no broken lines which indicate unpaved roads and zoomed in on those which were questionable on Google maps to triple check on the surface of the road. I was pretty damn sure that what I was putting forth was acceptable to all riders, especially those who do not want to get on anything without asphalt. Pepe had nothing to fear. There are several hats I wear for Backroads, Inc. – art department, bookkeeping, travel agent, resident chef and, probably the most questionable, proofreader. I will go over the stories which Brian pens and do my best to find the misspellings, errant periods and/or commas and decidedly unique ‘Brianisms’. We do okay, although we have been ‘gifted’ by a reader or two with returned clippings decorated with red pen corrections; funny how their subscriptions mysteriously lapsed. The same method applies to most routes that we create. I will go through Brian’s, zoomed in to street level on BaseCamp, move what we call ‘hanging chads’ (misplaced waypoints), or question if he really wanted to put people on the interstate when there was a nice two-lane road running parallel, although this rarely happens, as he really is a ‘Road Whisperer’.
We’ve been asked a few times if we preride our routes. The answer is pretty much a no, especially when the ride may be 250 or more miles away from us. Even before there were digital maps, we would cover the floor with the best paper maps money could buy (or gas stations and travel bureaus would give away) and make some pretty great routes.
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“At the constitutional level where we work, 90 percent of any decision is emotional. The rational part of us supplies the reasons for supporting our predilections.”
Justice William O. Douglas
How many times have you run across a traffic law that makes no sense? The sad truth is that laws are seldom made by those with knowledge of the subject. It is more likely that the bill was written by lobbyists representing a group with a financial interest and whose members have contributed handsomely to the campaigns of the legislatures, usually through a Political Action Committee (PAC). Special interest groups are cleverly named to make them sound innocuous; however, many of them funnel billions in contributions that are blatantly partisan. In addition to being expert at spreading money around, they’re also expert at using emotion to further their causes in lieu of – or even contrary to – facts.
Recently, I saw a local member of the state legislature and I engaged him since he represents my district. To his credit, he has listened to well-reasoned inputs I’ve made on motorcycles and ATVs. For example, because of rampant, scofflaw gangs riding ATVs through the streets of Baltimore, the legislature introduced bills to register, license, tag, and tax all ATVs and confiscate any of them not in compliance. Of course, that would have only hurt farmers and hunters, but facts have never bothered the legislature much. My representative informed me near the end of the session that the bill died in committee. I doubt it had much to do with his influence, as our area is not part of the gerrymandered, perpetual supermajority, but it was nice to know he was tracking it.
During the most recent session, the legislature approved the use of speed
cameras in our district. Speed and red-light cameras are a hot-button topic, because frequently, they become easy moneymakers to those who use them and the contractors who provide them. An October 2024 report by a DC news station noted: “The city doubled the number of traffic cameras this year. There are now around 500 cameras snapping pictures, between speed enforcement, red lights, stop signs, and even cameras on Metro buses. The District generates a significant amount of revenue, with numbers showing that over $113 million in fines were collected from automated traffic enforcement (ATE) in 2022, back when only about half the number of cameras were installed(!). More than 95% of traffic tickets in D.C. are now issued by a camera.” The pro-camera crowd always argues that “once driver behavior is changed, the cameras are no longer needed” as they recently did to promote the ones in our district. Unfortunately, once the local governments get addicted to the revenue crack, that’s not the case. Some argue that DC doesn’t WANT people to stop or slow down because they love the revenue and some drivers see it as the cost of urban commuting, as camera violations do not accrue points. Camera-driven enforcement also inverts the burden of proof, forcing drivers who receive a summons to prove their innocence rather than requiring the state to prove their guilt. In addition, traffic cameras and the technicians
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Saturday morning, 10:47 AM getting ready to go to the Southeast Museum in Brewster and still smiling after reading, Welcome to the Jungle ‘Take a Breath’ in The Backroads Report. All your articles are great, but this is in the top 10. I loved it, can’t stop laughing and smiling.
Sincerely,
Mark a.k.a. the MooMan
Thanks so much… I appreciate the kind words. Re-reading it myself I forgot about the mention of Shira’s cooking. She has a PROBLEM….
Almost every day. Sometime Day Cooking. Morning Cooking!!! I am waiting to wake up and smell her sizzling up garlic at 1am… Drinkers like that end up in rehab. She hit’s the kitchen constantly. Thursday… Chicken, scallions, and this morning – Spinach, chorizo feta cheese. LOL… such a problem! - BR
Hi Brian & Shira,
I just wanted to say “thank you” for a such a great ride to Smokin Moe’s BBQ from Van Sant Airport. This is a top 5 ride you guys did. I knew most of the roads by Van Sant but haven’t taken them in years and you know, if you ride a road in the different direction, it looks new.
Harvey Mushman
Hey Backroads,
A few years ago, the two of you were riding through southeastern PA and happened upon our music store. It was a delight chatting with you, and a complete surprise when we discovered that you’d mentioned us and Meadowood Music in an article in Backroads.
We would love to include the article in which you so kindly mentioned us, and hope you will give us permission to reprint your article on our website with a link to your magazine. Also, if it’s not too much to ask, may we have an electronic copy of the article so that it gets posted without errors?
Sincerely,
Mike and Paula • Meadowood Music
Our pleasure kids… if you are a string musician and riding around the Reading / Blandon area stop in and say hello. Beautiful music store, but note we have never visited this place without buying some sort of instrument. A very dangerous place – and that is a good thing!
Brian & Shira,
Congrats on 30 years, an amazing accomplishment. You have a rare and wonderful lifestyle and you both deserve it!
Tony Ferlazzo
Tony,
Thank you for the kind words. Don’t know about deserving it, but we certainly are blessed to have enjoyed it. Giving riders places to go and things to experience has made for a wonderful 30 years indeed.
Hello Brian,
It was great to meet you and the backroads group today. Jeff the guy with me, is my riding buddy and we love to get out as time permits. I wish timing was known to welcome you all in a more meaningful way. In the future, please let me know directly of your visits and we will do a much better job.
Hope your riding was great all day and you all stayed dry for the most part.
All the best,
Tim Teel • Martin Guitar
Dear Brian & Shira,
Living in the Shenandoah Valley, you would think I would know all the best motorcycle roads. Not yet but maybe soon. You guys never cease to amaze us with your wonderful finds! Hillbilly Heaven, The Miil Street Grill and the Blackburn Inn were new to me and terrific locations.
Thanks so much for all your hard work in organizing another amazing Backroads Rally! The camaraderie, incredible roads and unique accommodations were enjoyable for all the motorcycle riders!
Joe Giuffre
Good morning Brian and Shira,
A thank you for warmly welcoming me to the group and letting me ride with you down to Staunton. It was a wonderful trip through the countryside. Excellent selection of hotels and venue. I appreciate all the hard work in making the detailed arrangements - I know it’s not easy. I will continue to read with interest the Backroads Magazine and take advantage of your suggestions and recommendations.
I have to spend time on learning your web site and to download the rides into my Pan America. I will also try to cajole my friend with his BMW to join me next time. Be safe and healthy,
Peter Amari
Another Magazine rides into the dusty sunset… at least these guys know how to do that!
After over 15 years of publishing print magazines filled with global adventure riding stories,ADVMotois discontinuing regular print editions due to rising production and distribution costs and reduced industry support. While an annual print issue remains a possibility if there›s enough backing, the magazine’s future now lies in a fully digital direction.
Moving forward,ADVMotowill operate as a global, digital-first, subscriber supported platform. This shift allows more frequent publishing, deeper collaboration with global creators, and expanded storytelling formats like videos and podcasts. Supporters will gain access to exclusive content, early releases, downloadable archives, reduced ads and community-driven events and contests.
To support this shift,ADVMotois developing a new website—ADVMoto3.0—with modern features like text-to-speech and enhanced multimedia capabilities. This ensures a faster, more immersive experience for both content providers and subscribers.
No one will be left behind. Active subscribers will be contacted with details and options including refunds, merch and back issue credits. They, like us,
are a family-owned title so please be patient with them while they navigate this process.
Carl… you and your crew rocked…and then probably rode over them. Blessed to know ya! - BR
Yamaha Motor Corp., USA, announced the donation of a UMAX Rally 2+2 utility golf car to the Burbank Police Department’s motorcycle training unit through the Yamaha Outdoor Access Initiative (OAI). The connection between Yamaha and Burbank PD was made possible by Burbank resident, motorcycle enthusiast, and legendary comedian and TV host, Jay Leno.
“As a friend and supporter of the Burbank PD, I heard they needed a reliable support vehicle for their training grounds, and I knew Yamaha would be the perfect partner,” said Leno, who hosted the presentation at his world-famous Jay Leno’s Garage, featured on the popular YouTube series of the same name. “The Yamaha Outdoor Access Initiative is an incredible program that helps keep off-road recreation sustainable and safe for future generations.”
The Yamaha Outdoor Access Initiative is the powersports industry’s leading program dedicated to protecting and enhancing access to public land for motorized and outdoor recreation. Since 2008, OAI has contributed more than $7-million to more than 535 projects across the U.S. * Page 9
free wheeLin’
Continued from Page 3
Backroads Rallies. Maybe others have learned different things and skills, not having to do with motorcycles from Backroads Rallies – like guitar chord transitions, and such.
Unintended Consequence.
Then there is the economic value of these gatherings. Most of our rallies occur off the beaten track – sometimes sadly so. But during these events, there are many miles put on the backroads and that means fuel, and food in tiny towns that are nowhere near an interstate exit. Hotels, and let’s not forget the titanic bar bill you kids ring up each night, also come into play. We are talking averages of three-plus rallies each year for a quarter of a century, with an average of between 50 and 100 attendees riding to and around our Backroads Rallies.
We suck at math, so we hired N. Happy & Pepe CMA to do the numbers. Clearly rounded in our favor (this is our magazine), they came up with a staggering number of 4.5 million dollars.
Unintended Consequence.
This does not include the motorcycles, service, gear, tires, and tuning, as well as a hundred other things that were purchased to pursue this sport. We as a group spend a lot of money; and it helps so many communities, families, organizations, and the world as a whole. Unintended Consequences…. We’ll take it. ,
whatChathinkin’
Continued from Page 4
With the advent of digital maps, we were able to up the ante and find some smaller roads, with a little more finesse on the routing. We do hear quite often that people have trouble with BaseCamp usage, and it certainly did take a little bit to learn but, as said before – use it or lose it.
Now there are many other apps and mapping programs which can be used to create a .gpx file, as well as other ways to use that .gpx file on your motorcycle. While we still mount our Garmins, there are those who use their phones as a navigator. Yes, a new Garmin XT or XT 2 will run you from $250-$600 so not inexpensive, but a new iPhone 16 will set you back $800 and the Samsung Galaxy 25A a whopping $1200. I know I wouldn’t want that baking in the sun, soaking in the rain or bouncing down the road. The right tool for the job – another one of those sayings.
Whatever you use, you still have to create the route. That brings us back to the human factor and reading the maps, paper or digital. And that, my friends, is all the luck of the draw.
Pepe, you will be remembered forever ,
on the Mark
Continued from Page 5 who read them are prone to errors. Some people who receive the citations in error simply pay them because it’s easier and cheaper than taking the time to fight them (and the camera companies know that). Annapolis wrongly cited me: I got a ticket in the mail claiming I ran a red light; however, only a few digits of the license plate were visible and the technician clearly just checked the database and took a wild stab. The only problem was that the photo was of a burgundy Ford F-150 and I was driving a red Toyota. I finally prevailed by taking numerous photos and pointing out that my license was not for an F-150. It was time-consuming and the threats they made of not renewing my registration were clearly designed to encourage me to just pay the fine. Sometimes motorcycles don’t trigger the light to turn, giving you the devil’s bargain of safely running it and risking the fine, or sitting there until a car comes. With this background, I approached my legislator, explaining the revenue part, the inversion of burden of proof, the propensity for error, motorcycle stuff, and the difficulty in correcting those errors. His answer was abrupt and emotional: “I hear you and we talked about some of that stuff, but you know where I stand on traffic safety!” Over a decade ago, his wife was in a horrible traffic accident that led to her death. I believe the person who caused the accident was speeding, ran a red light, and was under the influence of alcohol. Now, there is no evidence to support, even WITH cameras in place at that intersection, it would have made any difference to what was a proven scofflaw, but that is what happens when legislators vote with their emotions, egged on by contractors and others with financial axes to grind. The intersection at which his wife was hit will not have cameras, as they are touted to be used “only in school zones” (at least at first). You can bet that whenever someone wants you to swallow a big dose of constitutional castor oil, they’ll claim it is “for the children,” until it isn’t. I didn’t press the issue with him any further because it was clear that, like Justice Douglas said, the brunt of the decision on his part was emotional and he was just rationalizing to support what he believes is honoring his late wife by striking a blow for traffic safety. Ultimately, despite the assertions of the county bosses, I believe we’ll go the way of DC and see more cameras rather than fewer, with negligible effect on traffic safety. But bad laws are most frequently about emotions… and money. ,
baCkLash
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Summer Solstice Rally 2025. Another Great Adventure. Thank You Brian and Shira for putting together another great trip. So much fun getting together with those who have become family. Back roads, Gravel roads, Highways, Curvy roads, Hilly roads, Straight roads, you name it, we love it !!
Lisa Mutchler
The City of Sturgis is proud to announce that Gloria Tramontin Struck will serve as Grand Marshal of the 85th Sturgis Motorcycle Rally. This announcement comes on a special day for Gloria – today, July 7, 2025, is her 100th birthday.
Gloria is a living legend and one of the most respected figures in the world of motorcycling. Her appointment is a tribute to more than eight decades of riding, trailblazing, and inspiring generations of riders.
“I am truly honored to be named the Grand Marshal of the 85th Sturgis Motorcycle Rally. Motorcycling has been my life, and to be part of this incredible event, which celebrates the freedom and camaraderie that riders share, is a privilege,” Gloria said.
“Gloria embodies everything the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally stands for — freedom, tradition, and the unbreakable bond between rider and road”, said Sturgis Mayor Kevin Forrester.
“Her legacy has paved the way for riders across the country, especially women in motorcycling. It is an incredible honor to have her lead the 85th Rally.”
Born in 1925 in the family’s apartment behind the family’s motorcycle shop in Clifton, New Jersey, Gloria’s story begins where many riders dream of ending up — on two wheels and never looking back. The Lexington Cycle Shop, founded by her parents in 1915, sold bicycles and motorcycles of all kinds. After the death of her father in 1928, Gloria’s mother continued to run the business, helping to shape what would become a legacy of motorcycling in the Tramontin family.
Gloria learned to ride at age 16, reluctantly at first, under the watchful eye of her older brother, Arthur “Bub” Tramontin — a professional hillclimber and longtime Harley-Davidson dealer.
By 1946, Gloria had joined the Motor Maids, a newly formed women’s riding organization. She has remained an active member ever since, logging hundreds of thousands of miles across the U.S. and abroad — always on her own bike, rain or shine, from Cumberland Gap to the Stelvio Pass in the Alps.
Thank you for all your planning & the effort you put into creating a fun trip with great places & beautiful roads to travel.
Robyn
Fantastic weekend, and amazing routes through the hills and valleys, especially in Virginia, and West Virginia!!
Jeff
“Gloria represents the heart and soul of the motorcycling community,” Forrester said. “Her grit, warmth, and unwavering commitment to the riding lifestyle embody the spirit of the Sturgis Rally.”
Through the years, Gloria has owned and loved many bikes—starting with an Indian Pony and a 1941 Bonneville Scout, followed by a brand new 1946 Indian Chief. In 1950, she switched to Harley-Davidson and has never looked back, owning more than seven Harleys since.
Her riding adventures span all 48 continental states and much of Europe. Whether riding at locations across the U.S. with her Motor Maid sisters or maneuvering 80 hairpin turns through the Alps, Gloria proved that age is just a number — much like the odometer on the motorcycles she has owned, marking new memories with every tick.
As Grand Marshal, Gloria will participate in festivities at this milestone Sturgis Motorcycle Rally, a fitting honor for a woman whose life has been defined by freedom, strength, and the open road. ,
woodgLen generaL store
549 ehiLL rd, CaLifon, nJ 07830 • www.facebook.com/woodglenstore
The wonderful thing about food, restaurants and motorcycles is that they can be found in all sorts of styles and thought – and, it is all fun. Sometimes on the road, you are not looking for fancy, upscale, or anywhere near bougie. You simply want good, decent, and filling, and a white linen table never could take the place of a wooden bench and a picnic table for you.
Case in point this month’s stop on the Great All-American Diner Run – the Woodglen General Store.
This part of western New Jersey, along the southern fringe of Schooley’s Mountain, has long been a crossroads for travelers heading east to New York and west to Easton. Since being founded in the mid-1800s, the town itself has always been on the modest side, with a small stagecoach stop along the way to somewhere else, a blacksmith shop, a wheelwright shop, and maybe a half dozen homes scattered about the region known nowadays as Califon, New Jersey.
There still is not much development here at the crossroads of three local roads and County Road 628 – and that surely lends itself to the charm of the Woodglen General Store.
We have passed this place a number of times, but while heading to an event in Frenchtown earlier this year we, once again, took note of the store and made a mental note to stop for a sandwich on the return trip.
Unfortunately, it was a Sunday, and the Woodglen General Store in closed on Sunday and Monday. Dagnabbit. (Update: they are now open Tues-Sun: 7am-3pm)
While off the bike, and peaking in the shuttered eatery, it was hard to miss the banner declaring the General Store as the winner for Best Sandwiches
in Hunterdon County. Now the grumbling tummies were really making a racket. We would be back. Soon.
On a stunningly beautiful last day of April, we spun back down from Backroads Central to visit the Woodglen General Store, to see what they had to offer; and were not disappointed.
This place has been taking care of locals and travelers for a long time, nearly 200 years – making this one of the oldest GAADR stops ever.
tasty places to take your bike
Earlier we had mentioned that a wooden picnic table is many times basic and best; and a delicious and robust sandwich makes the day. Robust is a great way to describe the sandwiches here at Woodglen; well, wait till you see the size of these sandwiches. We were there during the mid-week and late lunch, and it was fairly empty, so we tossed our gear on the porch-side picnic table and took a look around the store. It certainly had that old-style and comfortable ‘At Home’ feel. Only the hanging big screen was a reminder it was 2025, and not 1925. Anthony Bourdain was on. Robert, being a foodie, is a long-time fan of “Uncle Tony,” and he even has a special AB sandwich named after the famed chef. Ask him about it.
Along the far wall wooden shelfs were stocked with jams, sauces, and oth-
er cool foodie stuff. There was a cast iron stove off to one side, and along the wide glass counter, slanted shelfs carry boodles of today’s fresh baked goods. Donuts, bagels, coffee rolls, apple turnovers, chocolate croissants, and amazing-looking muffins of all persuasion. Huge cookies called our names.
This is a dangerous place for the hungry rider. Above were two boards with the Woodglen’s offerings and a stand-up blackboard had the day’s specials. There was a lot from which to choose. Shira, being a special gal, went for one of the day’s specials – the Firesmith Panini, which consisted of Firesmith grilled chicken, chipotle gouda, applewood bacon, maple ham and a light touch of Mike’s Hot Honey, all pressed on fresh sourdough bread. Scrumptious. Specials are… well special; but I was curious on how this general store took best accolades for the county –not only in 2025, but 24, and 23 as well – the second year Robert was running the Woodglen.
I thought I would go basic (ha) and stick with the store’s Club. I had a choice of turkey, ham or roast beef – but remained loyal to the ‘Club Code’ and went with the turkey.
Clubs are almost always made the same – but that doesn’t mean they are all alike. Putting together an engine, frame, wheels, and brakes might sound like it would be a motorcycle, but that does not make it a Ducati Panigale. Here at the Woodglen they served up a serious Club – a Club so big, juicy, and delicious that I thought that this Club would never have a member like me, and was waiting to get tossed out. With the delicious applewood bacon, and the fresh, crisp, and oh-so-tasty spring mix, tomato, and a delicious mayo –all on whole wheat bread.
It was just stunning. Okay, I was starving; but still there is a reason the Woodglen General Store wins the Best Sandwich in the County Award every year. They have fresh soups each day, as well as breakfast and breakfast sandwiches served all day long, and salad for those looking to think they have not eaten that much. Yeah, good luck with that here.
Of course, there are a plethora of other daily offerings, and you can get just about any sandwich you desire – made to order; with a reputation to uphold we can guarantee it will be a memorable lunch for sure. In addition, they have started serving gelato, so save room for some dessert. If you happen to be riding during the late summer days, they are open 5-8pm Thurs-Sun for a late afternoon sugar pick-me-up.
As usual, we will serve up a robust ride to go along with your meal… Enjoy and see you on the road. , Download .gpx here: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/0nzv1q
waverLy hiLLs sanatoriUM
4400 ParaLee dr, LoUisviLLe, ky 40272 502-690-7880 • thewaverlyhillssanatorium.com
There are hundreds of places – old hotels, dingy restaurants, bars, forests, and medical facilitiesthat claim to be haunted; but this month our stop in this Mysterious America could be THE one, THE place, THE MOST HAUNTED in America! Let’s ride to the outskirts of Louisville, Kentucky, and visit the infamous Waverly Hills Sanatorium. The White Plague
In the 1700s, there was a disease called “the white plague” due to the pale complexion of those affected. In the 1800s, it became commonly known as “consumption,” a name that reflected the disease’s tendency to cause individuals to physically waste away. The name “tuberculosis” was coined by Johann Schonlein in 1834, and it was a major cause of death in Europe and North America, responsible for an estimated quarter of all deaths in the 1800s. This could be the
deadliest disease in history, as some researchers have stated that one in seven people who ever lived died of TB. That is a staggering statistic.
In the early 1900s, there was a shockingly high outbreak of tuberculosis in the state of Kentucky. Hundreds were dying, and there seemed no end to this outbreak in sight. No light at the end of this tunnel.
The state saw the need for a way to help curb this disease and they set about building what would become known as the Waverly Hills Sanatorium which was completed in 1926. The building is a beautiful example of Tudor Gothic architecture. It is on the National Register of Historic Places. The Sanatorium housed 400 patients and was one of the largest facilities of its kind. Waverly served the community through decades of the worst TB outbreak in the country.
With a scourge like the White Plague, and the medical treatment of the day, you would expect some deaths, but the number of souls that moved on (or did not move on), is astonishing.
It is said that 63,000 people died at Waverly Hills over the years, but that is just what records still exist. It is actually thought to have been around 123,000 or more. Death was such a common occurrence at Waverly Hills that rather than carry the bodies out in a respectful manner, the staff began to use a body chute that ran over 500 feet in length. So many died here that there is a state-run Website Data Base on who, how many, why, and when patients died here from 1911 through the ‘50s. Effective antibiotic treatments for TB eventually emerged in the mid-20th century. Scientists discovered that, when taken together, the drugs para-aminosalicylate, isonicotinic acid hydrazide, and streptomycin could eliminate TB in 80-90% of patients.
There was a glimmer of light at the tunnel’s end. It is said that spirits often linger on at locations where there was a strong emotional or physical reaction preceding their death. That being said, it is no secret that the treatment for tuberculosis in the early part of the last century was unpleasant, even brutal.
We can see why many believe the Waverly Hills Sanatorium is haunted. This was cemented when Waver ly was featured in a Season 11 Finale of Supernatural when Sam and Dean trav eled to Kentucky to do their thing at Waverly Hills, so you know this has to be the real deal.
The ghosts here run the gamut.
A young patient named Timmy is often seen rolling a ball down the hospital’s hallways. Another frequently sighted specter is a mysterious man in white that drifts through the corridors late at night.
It is not just the patients that died here at the Sanatorium, but it is known that in 1928, a nurse named Mary Hillenburg entered Room 502 and hung herself from the ceiling light. It’s believed that she took her own life because of a pregnancy from one of the male doctors at Waverly Hills.
After closing in 1961, due to the introduction of life-saving antibiotics, the hospital reopened in 1962 as “Woodhaven Geriatric Center” which operated the facility until 1982 when it was closed by the state.
Since 2001, the Waverly Hills Sanatorium has been kept in special care to keep the building and its rich history alive. It was restored to its former glory as a Tudor gothic style revival, and a nonprofit organization has dedicated their efforts to ensure the building is properly maintained.
Today, you can visit the property for yourself as the location offers both historic and paranormal tours. You might even meet some of the building’s original patients!
O’Life Out! ,
Wytheville VA Tourism presents
the beLvidere hoteL
430 front street, beLvidere, new Jersey 908-475-2006 • hotel-belvidere.com
194 years is a long time.
Back in 1831, Andrew Jackson was president. Darwin was setting sail on the HMS Beagle. Faraday invented the first real electric generator. In the small village of Belvidere, on New Jersey’s western edge along the Delaware River, a building was being built on the corners of Hardwick and Front Streets. Over the years this building would be a mercantile store, it would be home, then a tavern, then a hotel.
The town of Belvidere, New Jersey, boasts a rich history rooted in its role as the county seat of Warren County and its strategic location at the confluence of the Delaware and Pequest Rivers. We all know about the Delaware, but the Pequest is an interesting waterway too. Starting just south of Backroads Central, it flows 35 miles to a really stunning confluence with the Delaware at Belvidere’s Free Bridge. It is also now known for the trout hatchery that keeps New Jersey lakes and streams well stocked. It was these two rivers that started what would become Belvidere.
Established as a town in 1845 (14 years after the hotel was built), it developed from a small settlement into a bustling commercial center, particularly with the arrival of the Belvidere Delaware Railroad in the mid-19th century. Today, Belvidere retains
a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads
much of its historic charm, with well-preserved Colonial and Victorian architecture and a strong sense of community, and lawfulness. What would become the Belvidere Hotel was the place to go during the later 1800s, especially when there needed to be a hanging in the town’s square.
Such a happy time, right?
Like many great places of the past, the hotel fell into disrepair and languished for years before it was bought by Sidney and Alma Deutsch, who had retired and bought property in Warren County in 2000 and then purchased the old hotel in 2003.
The rebirth of this place would be a major undertaking, but Sidney and Alma saw the diamond in the rough, and slowly, the unpolished diamond was massaged back to its former brilliance.
Although gutted, the Deutschs kept as much of the old-style hand craftsmanship that went into the Hotel Belvidere back when Jackson was president.
Jennifer and Justin, now the innkeepers of the Belvidere Hotel, are very welcoming and proud of their historic charge.
Walking into the Hotel Belvidere the first thing that draws your eye is the beautiful dark oaken banister, that brings you up the first flight of fifteen steps of the double-tier staircase. The beautifully polished wooden floors have burgundy and flowered runners that set off the classic feel.
The Belvidere has 22 rooms, all nicely appointed and with a subtle combination of old-style charm and modern amenities.
There are two porches, with very comfortable
rocking chairs, small tables, and a top or bottom floor. They are a great place to unwind after a long day’s ride with a glass of wine or coffee. Speaking coffee, their lounge has coffee machines and all the fixins at your disposal; as well as a very complete continental breakfast – with hard boiled eggs, fresh fruit, waffles, a variety of cereals, yogurts, freshly baked muffins, turn-overs, and other pastries. Always a light way to start the day. If you need more there is Harper’s Grill, a few stores down, as well as the
Riverside Diner on Route 46. Located right up the hill from the Delaware River, and just north of Easton, where there are a few very cool destinations to be found where – including the Crayola Crayon Experience, as well as a number of restaurants in this small city.
For us we like to stay local at day’s end, there are a number of eateries just a short ride away, including the Water’s Edge and the Red Wolfe Inn. We spun over to the Red Wolfe and sat with owner Rudy for a bit, enjoying a rack of ribs, and Caesar salad that could not be beat.
The Red Wolfe never disappoints.
We think you will like the Hotel Belvidere, and the surrounding region as well. For those of our readers who live to the south of New Jersey we will give you a nice little, and paved, route from the Mason-Dixon Line to the front door. Enjoy, and see you on the road. ,
Download .gpx file here: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/n4d31e
We’ve had an odd riding season thus far. Cool and damp one day, to be replaced the next by hot and humid – with the occasional perfect mornings sprinkled around it all. It’s called summer in the northeast of the USA. But, with August comes the promise of warmer temps, and following along with our cover Summer Solstice Rally’s Hot Fun in the Summertime, we thought we’d point you in the direction of some of the better places to cool down and enjoy what is not February.
Let’s take a little ride to some of the better swimming holes waterfalls.
Take a ride up along the Shawangunk Mountains and roll into Minnewaska State Park, along Route 44 / 55. Once parked, you can take a short stroll along an old, well-groomed, carriage road to the 60-foot high Awosting Falls – just a bit further on you will discover Peterskill Falls. This hidden gem has a fairly deep swimming hole, and the cliff along the falls offers a decent little jump off, and places along the edge to lie back and enjoy the summer. If you are in an exploring mood, take a look around the old mill.
daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind
The Peekamoose Blue Hole is located in Sundown Wild Forest, set within the Catskill Forest Preserve, right off of County Road 42. The Blue Hole is a depression in the streambed rock of the Rondout Creek and is a unique natural feature formed by sand and swirling gravel in an ancient whirlpool. The creek is part of the New York City drinking water watershed. Although once a secret, that cat has been let out of the bag, and The Blue Hole can get crowded on weekends, and will require a $10 park pass any day you go. You can get your pass at: www.reserveamerica.com
Hitting this swimming hole during the week might be the best play here.
180 Crusher Road, Hopewell, NJ 08525
Open Wednesday -Sunday • Day Pass $23 • www.hopewellquarry.org
It has been a long time since we first came upon this, and this quarry was originally incorporated as a swim club in 1928. It has a long history that began with a quarry operation that mined the rock into the early 1900s. The miners carved a deep hole in the hillside and were
constantly pumping out the water that rose from the underground springs. In 1916, the quarry ceased operation and the mining company filed for bankruptcy. The equipment was removed, and the pump (which was used to remove the spring water) was shut off.
The springs continued to produce an abundance of water, filling the hole to an initial depth of approximately 55 feet. Consequently, when those hot, hazy days of summer hit and school was out, no fence, wall or sign could keep kids away from the hidden treasure that became “the old swimming hole.” As word spread, locals began to climb over and around the rickety fence that surrounded the place. The local kids would walk, bike, or hitchhike to this beautiful spot to cool off.
As people started showing up to go swimming, the owners began to charge admission, and soon began the earliest days of the Quarry Swim Club. It was incorporated as a swim club in 1928.
In 1946 the first in-ground swimming pool in the area was built. Later, an admissions booth was added, dressing rooms were installed, and the first Quarry snack shack or “refreshment building” was completed.
Newspaper articles from 1946, 1949, and 1951 reported that the Quarry Swim Club, along with the American Red Cross, held spectacular Water Carnivals every summer. There were diving competitions off the cliffs that drew huge crowds and demonstrations on water safety and boating were also given.
In August 2021 it was purchased by Friends of Hopewell Quarry - a nonprofit organization dedicated to preserving this historic resource as protected open space and, through it, serving the public in perpetuity.
Great Fall at Paterson
72 McBride Avenue, Paterson, NJ 07501
What is the only National Park that also has a professional baseball stadium? C’mon – this is easy – right in Paterson, New Jersey.
Although the falls have been here for almost forever, the region became big around the time of the American Revolution. In 1778,
Alexander Hamilton visited the falls and was impressed by its potential for industry. Later when Hamilton was the nation’s Secretary of the Treasury, he selected the site for an industrial city, which he called a “national manufactory.” Silk cloth and steam locomotives; textiles and continuous paper rolls; firearms and aircraft engines. What do these things have in common? All were manufactured in the same place - Paterson, NJ.
The Great Falls are 77 feet high and 260 feet wide.
More than 2 billion gallons of water rush over it daily. It is the 2nd largest waterfall, by volume, east of the Mississippi River, behind only Niagara Falls. Right across from the falls, on a hot summer night after cooling off from the heavy spray, you can take in a baseball game at the historic Hinchliffe Stadium, home to the New Jersey Jackals that play in the Frontier League.
Talk about hot fun in the summertime. For us this is it.
PA 2004 Silver Lake Road, Dingmans Ferry, PA
This series of very impressive waterfalls is located and been part of the Delaware Water Gap National Recreational Area since 1983. It is located in Dingmans Ferry in Delaware Township, Pike County, Pennsylvania, just over the privately owned bridge ($2 bucks please) and is named for the late newspaper publisher George William Childs, whose widow deeded the land to the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania in 1912. The site contains three main waterfalls: Factory Falls, Fulmer Falls, and Deer Leap Falls, and is a few miles upstream from Dingmans Falls and Silverthread Falls.
The site is also host to the ruins of Joseph Brooks’ 19th-century woolen mill. In the 1820s Joseph Brooks, a Welshman who had immigrated to Philadelphia, built a woolen mill of stone, 3½ stories high. His sheep, though, were devoured by wolves or died from eating poisonous Sheep Laurel. Supplies, operatives, and materials such as expensive raw wool, had to be brought in from Philadelphia, and the finished products shipped down to this city by wagons, a trip which
took 10 days. Brooks died in 1832 and the mill was abandoned; the ruins are still visible. In March 2018 two nor’easters, Winter Storm Riley and Winter Storm Quinn, struck the United States eastern seaboard resulting in damage that caused the park to close indefinitely. The National Park Service recently rehabbed the park to the tune of 3 million dollars –and it is once again one of the most beautiful series of waterfalls to be ridden to in the northeast. ,
Seasonal: May to September: Tues-Sun Noon-9pm
Set in the southwest corner of Lebanon County, nestled into the South Mountains of Pennsylvania, you will find a small community which is celebrating its 130 year of existence. Mount Gretna was conceived by Mr. Robert Coleman and developed into a summer community which encompassed many purposes and peoples.
In 1885, the lake was produced by damming the Conewago Creek and a railroad station was completed to ferry folks in for the summer. A narrow-gauge rail was also put in which ran up the mountain to Governor Dick Tower, a popular lookout from which four counties and 2000 square miles may be seen.
The summer programs expanded into a community and way of life, undertaken by two separate organizations, the Mt. Gretna Campmeeting Association and the Pennsylvania Chautauqua.
The original Chautauqua began in 1874 at Chautauqua Lake, New York, and was intended as a summer institute for the teaching of Sunday school teachers, but has grown to include all manner of experiences, focusing on the four pillars of Chautauqua: arts, education, recreation and religion.
While the Mt. Gretna Campmeeting Assoc. developed, the idea was put forth and a charter was granted, in 1892, for the Pennsylvania Chautauqua to be established for “The advancement of literary and scientific attainment among the people, and the promotion of popular culture in the interest of Christianity.” Mr. Coleman sold 80 acres for $3,000 to the Chautauqua on which cottages and public building sprang, as well as an auditorium and Inn. Over these 130 years, the Chautauqua community has developed its 88 acre wooded area to include 200 homes, numerous parks, recreational and cultural facilities – like the Hall of Philosophy - activities and, the reason we were here…
The Jigger Shop.
During our Summer Solstice Rally, on our way to Shippensburg, PA, we made a lunch/ice cream stop at the Jigger Shop, and it was a great place to stretch the legs, fill the belly and cool off with some ice cream.
Their savory menu is quite varied, including everything from salads to sandwiches. While looking at the board, I was torn between a simple tomato stuffed with chicken salad, the Lebanon County Banquet (grilled sweet bologna on a warm
pretzel bun with provolone cheese and spicy brown mustard) or a chicken bacon ranch wrap. As we had miles to go, I settled on the wrap, as I knew there was ice cream to come. It fit the bill just fine, as I stole some of Brian’s fries which came with his basket.
After taking a short walk around the grounds and seeing what the Chautauqua had to offer and perusing the curiosity shop next door with its many variations of Big Foot, I headed back to the counter to claim my cup. The Jigger makes its own ice cream and had quite a selection from which to choose. With all the berries in season now, it was hard not to go with Strawberry or Blueberry Cheesecake. Also enticing was Chocolate Éclair and Peanut Butter Ripple. But I opted for Espresso Chip as I knew I’d be sharing with Brian and he’s a coffee junky. Good choice indeed.
If you stop in just for ice cream, their sundaes look amazing, with things like Apple Fritter Flambe (Beignet donuts sauteed with apples in a caramel sauce over French vanilla ice cream with whipped cream and a cherry), Campfire S’Mores (French vanilla with graham crackers, hot fudge, Hershey chocolate squares, marshmallow and pretzels served on fire), or if you are having an Amish bent, how about a Shoo-Fly Pie Sundae (slice of PA Dutch shoo-fly pie with French vanilla topped with molasses, whipped cream, shoo-fly crumbles
and a cherry) or Whoopie Pie Sundae (chocolate éclair ice cream topped with hot fudge, a PA Dutch chocolate whoopie pie, whipped cream and, of course, a cherry).
Those are just a VERY few of their concoctions which accompany their slew of shakes, floats and smoothies, as well as a healthy, and I do mean healthy, assortment of Acai bowls
such as Acai with granola, almond dust, bananas, crushed cacao and honey. Not enough, or any, ice cream for me but, hey, you go for it. The Jigger Shop is in a great riding area. Since we have it, here’s the 90 mile one-way route we took from Martin Guitar, in Nazareth, PA for our Summer Soiree. If you are going during the week, the Martin Factory tour is well worth the $5, as is their museum. , Download .gpx file here: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/ppmoup
We thought we would try something new this year, rally-wise. Our May was gobbled up, and we felt that it would be nice to celebrate the beginning of Summer, and the longest day of the year, with the extended Backroads family so we put together a few days on the road, this time heading south, and threw out an open invitation to all. Indeed, we got the usual loveable suspects, but would add a few new faces and see some old faces that we have not seen in a long bit and have missed. For us, our Summer Solstice Soiree began with a ride down along the Delaware River, and the tiny riverside burg of Belvidere, at the small hotel with the same name, the Hotel Belvidere. This was a most excellent place, a perfect We’re Outta Here!, as you’ll read in these pages. We headed over to the Red Wolfe Inn, on County Road 519, one of our favorite old haunts for dinner, and then back to the hotel, as tomorrow was going to be a full day.
We had made plans to start our rally at the Martin Guitar Factory, in Nazareth, Pennsylvania, just a short hop from the river, and we were met by a small cadre of riders who would be joining us down to Shippensburg. Martin Guitar is America’s Guitar, and although we were too early for a tour, we did get to take in their stunning museum. Their history is like reading the history of America itself. So many, many great names and artists played Martin Guitars. While everyone was perusing the story of Martin, I cut to the heart of it all and played about a dozen guitars – ‘cause you can there (a reason all itself for visiting) finally zeroing in on the one Martin I would love to have. Ahh, to dream.
When we were leaving, we were approached by two fellows who began talking bikes with us. It seems that Martin Guitars also has another huge plus going on there in Nazareth, as their Director of Instrument Design Tim
and Jeff Allen are avid riders, and for me it was both excellent to meet some other riders, but especially superb to meet the men who design and create America’s guitar.
Heading west our route hugged some of the tinier forest and farm roads, and we rode some pieces of pavement we had ridden so many times before and some superb miles that were new to us.
Shira had a super idea for ice cream and lunch at the Pennsylvanian Chautauqua at Mount Gretna.
You might be wondering a Chatalkwhat?
A little history lesson, ‘cause we can…
The Chautauqua movement began in 1874 by a Sunday school teacher named John Heyl Vincent, a Methodist Minister, and Lewis Miller, a local businessman near Lake Chautauqua, New York. It was founded as an outdoor educational experience and the summer camp format proved to be
popular with families - thus began The Chautauqua Institute. After its inception the movement spread rapidly through the United States, bringing education, culture, physical and religious activities as well as entertainment to rural America. There were over two hundred Chautauquas at the height of the movement. Today there are just 17.
Although the small hamlet has a very spiritual feel to it, they have ice cream too, and that is what we really came for. The Jigger Shop has some wonderful ice cream and has been serving travelers and the Chautauqua since 1895. We’d carry on about the ice cream, but Shira already gave your the whole story in her Inside Scoop.
Happily fed and properly sugared we continued on to the small college town of Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania, and Jeremiah Crow’s House of Oddities and Curious Goods.
the fairly All-American Elizabethtown. There was so much to see, and we could never have seen it all in the short time we were there. This place needs to have O’life explain what is really going on here. Let us just say that the House of Oddities and Curious Goods must make its way onto your bucket list.
From Elizabethtown we spun west, across the Susquehanna River, and then south riding through the Michaux State Forest; considered Pennsylvania’s “Cradle of Forestry.”
If not for the very bright window signage, you might miss this small shop, located in the center of town. But walking in the door every one of us was doing the jaw drop thing.
Jeremiah’s collection of WTF is on a high, and very unique level, and truly an oddity by itself, especially in
Michaux is also the site of the first forestry school, Mont Alto; and is named for the French botanist, Andre Michaux, who discovered and named many plants during the 18th century. Not always as serene as it looks, Michaux was home to a secret interrogation camp during World War II. Thousands of prisoners were brought here, in secret, and under the cover of darkness, and we are not sure of the con-
ditions, but just the fact that they had a number of “soundproof” rooms is enough to make you wonder. On a far happier note, right opposite of where Camp Michaux was located, you will find the Appalachian Trail Museum. Located almost at the mid-way point of the 2,200-mile walking trail.
The Museum is housed in a building that is itself a historical artifact, a structure built more than two hundred years ago as a grist mill. It stands across the road from the Pine Grove General Store, a site famed in hiker lore. It is here that thru-hikers traditionally stop to celebrate reaching the midpoint by eating, or attempting to eat, a half gallon of ice cream in one sitting. Does Shira know this?!
We have been to this museum a few times, and it always makes us feel somewhat small and very out of shape – give us the ice cream, please.
This day the well-paved road through Michaux State Forest was lined with blossoming Mountain Laurel, giving the forests a very ‘about to become summer’ feel to it.
But the bright day suddenly began to get dark and we began dancing with
dark clouds and dealing with patters of wet to somewhat steady wet. To one side and behind us was a dark and Cimmerian sky, streaked with the occasional bolt of lightning, and to the other Mr. Blue Sky.
Shira yelled across the Bluetooth, “Head to the light, Leyland. Head to the light!” Fortunately, for us, our route headed in the right direction and around 5 o’clock somewhere – we rode into Shippensburg.
The hotel was full with said loveable crew and new additions; and a big surprise with our friend Frank Covucci, who once ran the AMA’s Tours and now runs his own tour company – check him out - fcmototours.com
It was a superb start to this Solstice Soirée.
From AI: It is important to note that the term “Back Road” could refer to a specific, potentially unpaved section of a road, but the search results do not provide enough information to confirm the condition of a road specifically referred to as “ Back Road”.
Wonderful.
Have you ever seen the show FUBAR? Arnold Schwarzenegger plays Luke Brunner, a slightly over-the-hill CIA operative who refuses to give up on his once swanky lifestyle, even though the odds and years are piling up
against him. I somehow relate to Luke, but I can’t fathom why.
FUBAR stands for F’d Up Beyond All Recognition. Well, I would say that is how this day’s “suggested” route started off – except we have ridden down this dirt road sooo many times; and it is all too recognizable.
I could add the acronym DILLIGAF… but I can’t; because I really do give a huge hoot. Routes don’t ever seem to ride out like they look on a map or screen – we felt like a pitcher who just threw four walks in the bottom of the 9th in a tied game.
Lunch had us revamping the rest of the ride, and getting it to those that we could; and all made it through the morning, and as much as I think the morning was, well, tedious and adrenaline pumping, the afternoon romp through West Virginia and Virginia was stellar, and almost erased any angst from earlier in the day. Almost. Pepe the Monkey was fired on the spot - later to be actually fired, on the spot (see sidebar). We took some well-deserved ribbing that night, but the after-
noon ride and the hotel for the next two days made up for the morning miles.
The Blackburn was featured here years ago, and the huge hotel was once a ‘Resort-Style’ asylum called the Western State Hospital.
Like Club Med, but scarier.
This utopian style of care didn’t last long. By the mid19th century, the facility was overcrowded, and new techniques were being practiced. The facility was then converted into Staunton Correctional Center, a medium-security men’s penitentiary.
Now, after some great refurbishing and thought – it is The Blackburn, one of the most beautiful hotels at which we have ever held an event.
Making the effort (and it is) to go up the incredible hand-crafted spiral staircase to the glass cupola at the top of the Blackburn is so worth the steps. Simply amazing!
We had the second big surprise for us as another longlost face, Sean Rogan, who ran BMW of Manhattan decades back, joined us just for dinner and some bourbon on the porch that evening.
Wow, two old friends in a row. Life was good on our boat. Maybe too good, he wrote with a Spenserish tone.
We started with breakfast and the MotoGP Sprint, just to get us in the mood for the mountain sweepers that surrounded us, and this day the riders spread out in many directions; some to caverns, some to railroads, others to the Greenbank Observatory.
If you have been paying attention you know that our routes were allegedly made by our puppets, Notso Happy and Pepe the Monkey, and although Pepe might have hit a few batters the previous morning, he made up for it that afternoon and then threw a perfect game this Saturday.
But did I follow the monkey’s advice? Heck no – he’s a friggin’ monkey. No, I threw together a quick ride, a 140-mile loop up and over the mountains that border Virginia and her sister to the west, Rtes. 250, 220, and then 33 back east. Shira left her Suzuki and two-upped with me on the GS. We were having a pleasant, peaceful jaunt, with the idea of visiting a local garden later. We crossed into West Virginia and came across a neat place called the Orange Cat Café, in the town of Franklin. Really excellent ice cream from their Moe Fatz side of the shop, and owned by a very nice couple,
Cindy and Mike. Happy birthday Mike! We’d carry on about the ice cream, but don’t want to steal Shira’s thunder or incur her wrath – so stay tuned for a full lowdown on this very cool Orange Cat.
With dessert out of the way, we headed back east on Route 33 –one of the most funnest roads to ride. Somewhere down the road we entered a construction zone, and as we dipped through a hard left sweeper, my rear tire hit something. I was not sure what it was but it did upset the entire bike and we did a bit of a slide, recovering and carrying on, we began to have “The Talk.’
The Talk is what every rider and their friends should have after something odd happens. What happened, and why?
We hit something, but we thought it was just a rider error, or slippery white line, though that didn’t really ring true.
Then I began to hear a repeated tap, tap, tap, tap – coming from the back. This dull and quick tapping followed a few miles down the road, and then a thought, that slowly brightening feeling that something was off.
We rounded the square in Harrisonburg, and then the rear degraded quickly and the sad chord of knowledge strummed through my ears. Shira said… ‘we got a flat’. Ugg.
I have gotten pretty good with Stop N Go, but we did have a dilly of a time getting the bike safely off the road – alongside a cemetery. (Of course. Why would you not?).
Now this is when things really began to cascade, or maybe hit a crescendo. I had the bike on the center stand and spun the wheel, found the hole, and
stood up, quickly, to get my kits, slashing my head across the GIVI top case’s clasp. It wasn’t pretty, and between the blood, grime, and sweat I must have looked a mess. Even the local cop rolled by us and, after a gander at me, turned his head whistling and drove by. With bloody bandana on, looking like a sad version of Mark Knopfler, we got the tire squared away and quickly inflated with our MotoPump. (motopumps.com - Yes, that was an obvious sales pitch for this awesome pump)
We were back at the Blackburn by later afternoon and still had time to set up our dinner that evening with the help of Brandy, Jeremy, Jason, and crew.
They did such a great job, treating us as if we were the only “event” they had this year. The setting and the food were fantastic, and they were even kind enough to get us some guitars; an acoustic and two electrics that our buddy Jon Bressner got working through the PA system.
Along with the great meal with the loveable crew and new additions, there were some coolish table gifts; and some wonderful words about our friend Paul Donoghue who passed since our last get-together.
You are missed Paul, and Happy and Pepe bow to you.
This was the longest day of the year. The Summer Solstice, and Summer was not fooling around as this day saw the heat really pouring on, and it was interesting to watch as dozens sat along the Blackburn’s wide staircase
having adult beverages and staying as cool as could be. When we planned this ‘longest day of the year” rally we didn’t expect this.
But, if we are anything, we are a make-due crowd.
This day was going to be a long one, and the dome of heat was going to make it a hard one too. Maybe the hardest rally day we have ever had. A few of us got out by 7, and it was not long before I had to tell Shira that the tire plug we put into the rear tire was not 100%. I was losing air. We interrupt this story to bring you an announcement from our sponsor…. Have you ever had a flat tire on your bike? It can really ruin your day. But not if you have the Motopump from www.motopumps.com. Losing air by the mile? Bleeding to death from a scalp wound? No problem with the Motopump. It even comes with all sorts of electrical connections and a very cool, bright orange carrying bag. Cut to busty blonde talking…
“I used to try to fill my tire by just blowing into it. It never worked.” She has a sad face and is shrugging her shoulders. Never have this happen to you again. It’s the Motopump, kids! f Sparkling Wink! f We now return to our story…
Shira and I continued on, along the route created by Mr. Happy – and it was a superb ride. I think, except for the early dropped ball on Friday, the Solstice Rally had some seriously great miles.
We crossed the Potomac, and into Maryland near Point of Rocks, and up through the Old Line State and entered back into Pennsylvania again. With a hundred miles left, in our almost three-hundred-mile day, I had to fill up my tire about every 75 miles, or so. There was a highway in front of us, and my tire, once again, pumped up to 45lbs, we took the big roads east and across the Susquehanna to the Cork Hotel in Lancaster – another great place we have stayed at a few times before. By late afternoon riders began to roll in – most sweaty and tired – but not so bad that a shower and an adult beverage wouldn’t cheer them up. Between the Lancaster Brewery and Stubby’s, the beverage and food made all much more human.
That night we had a crowd watching the MotoGP race from Italy in the lobby as those who joined us were recapping and catching up on this final night. Flat tire? Feh. We feel that east of the Susquehanna is almost home. We want to thank everybody for these last 30 years of Moto fun. Without all of you – this would not be. You put up with
bad story lines, worse riding lines, and some bad joke lines too. But you still show up – and we love you for that. Hopefully, we will see you further on, down the road.
Ride Smart. Ride Safe. Ride the Backroads. ,
On Tuesday, June 24 at 12:01pm Pepe the Monkey, creator of 50% of the Summer Solstice Rally Routes, was executed by firing squad at the offices of Backroads Central. The execution was sponsored in part by Gulf Oil – bringing you mayhem on and off the roads for 100 years – check out www.gulfoil.com for more info.
Pepe was found guilty of “gross negligence and high suckatude in routing judgment and planning.” A capital offense at BRC.
Judge Skippy K. Roo, who oversaw the court proceedings commented, “HeymateyougottaexpectthissortaofthingfromamonkeyfosterlagerandshrimponthebarbiehhBobsyouruncle.”
Reporters were perplexed.
The execution was carried out by General Notso Happy – who seemed ‘very’ this day and stated, with a wink, “Well, you get what you pay for, right? He was a friggin’ monkey. A MONKEY!”
Not all were as Happy as Happy with this termination.
Long time traveling buddy Shira Kamil was wiping aways tears and said, “This is total bullshit! He didn’t route those riders down that dirt road on purpose. Hell, he doesn’t even have opposable thumbs, for goodness sake; he can’t operate a keyboard. This is just total bullshit, and a set-up!
I can’t believe Pepe’s gone.”
Pepe’s body was buried in a shallow, unmarked, grave outside Citizens Bank Park, which was immediately bombed by a B2 Bomber from Whiteman Air Force Base, dropping a GBU-57 Mop to make sure the job was done.
We came across this polishing product, and unlike so many polishers that leave a lot of chemical residue, the Iosso Bio-Based Metal Polish does so with no petroleum distillates – it is plant-based. This “natural” Metal Polish removes oxidation, tarnish, surface rust and water spots. It polishes to a high shine and leaves a brilliant protective coating. Recommended for all types of metal, hard plastics, painted surfaces, porcelain, marble and tile. It can lightly
clean and polish all in one shot, giving some grimy chrome a strong and lustrous shine. $25 from iosso.com
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sUsPend beLief
A column dedicated to your riding survival
You might have heard the phrase to Suspend Belief. “Suspension of disbelief” is the willing act of accepting a story’s premise as real, even if it’s unrealistic or fantastical, to fully enjoy the story. Like Dr. Seymour O’Life’s Bigfoot and other out-there stories. Never let science and facts get in the way of a good tale.
So, in my seemingly never-ending quest to make my 2019 Kawasaki Z900RS handle somewhere close to Shira’s 21-year-old Honda 919, I have added, subtracted, and upgraded a lot on a bike that was to be a Sunday-only machine. On paper, other than ABS and Traction Control, these bikes are almost identical – ‘ceptin one is old enough to drink.
I bought the Z900 as it looked identical to the ‘73 Z-1 – the legendary Kawasaki motorcycle that etch-a-sketched the motorcycle world. I had this bike, back in the day, and it was like rediscovering that first real girlfriend – only this one had a college degree and credit rating.
From the double-overhead cam engine, displacement-wise, weight and available horsepower – these two machines were very much the same. Yet, Shira’s machine was a far superior ride handling-wise.
Her Honda sported Hyper-Pro suspension and, when I could, I ditched the stock Kawasaki shock and springs for the same. The Netherlands based company has been making cutting edge suspension for decades as their products are on the same tier as other Nordic brands, and having the purple shock and springs installed was just step one – although I did not realize it at the time.
You can spend a few thousand dollars on a Martin guitar, but that doesn’t mean it’ll sound good, or play right.
Observation and tuning are key, and then more listening to the tone, the feel of the strings, comfortability and sound all come into play when a guitar comes home.
It is the same with motorcycles and new suspension.
Although Shira and I had the same suspension, hers had been ‘tuned’ a few years back by Washington Cycle Works, on Route 31 in Washington, New Jersey. The Z was given a once over after installation and seemed fine, but the bike never had that “planted, could do no wrong feel.”
I made an appointment with Ron Chermerynski, owner, operator, and “Suspension Sorcerer,” of WCW.
It should be noted that just a few weeks earlier I had replaced an aging set of Michelins with a new set of Avon 3D EVO Sport Tires, purposely with track-time on my mind, that offered incredible grip on dry pavement. My hope was Ron and crew, Papa John and Scott, could bring the Z900 on level with the tires, and a 21-year-old and aging Honda.
A bit about Washington Cycle Works… they have been slowly and steadi-
ly becoming regional legends, and I do not say this lightly. I cannot tell you how many times we have been talking bike set-up and handling with riders around the northeast, and when the topic of suspension comes up, so does Ron and Washington Cycle Works crew.
Scott jokingly said that a customer called them “Famous,” at which he kinda rolled his eyes. I told them straight up that they have made a serious name for themselves and I hear Washington Cycle Works again and again at tracks, and sport-riding events. I added that “famous” is much better than “infamous,” and they should know that they are celebrated, distinguished, and renowned in the motorcycle suspension world.
“Yeh, whatever,” was the response. Hmmm - they are humble too. I arrived a bit earlier than my scheduled time, but Ron and Papa John rolled my Z right into the shop, and my usual light banter was tossed to the side and ignored, as these guys were in “let’s get this bike better than right” mode. My attempts at light jokes and anecdotes bounced off them like Romulan torpedoes off a shield-protected Enterprise.
I have seen this serious work ethic before. When wheeled into surgery. Most surgery teams ignore my prattling, and they go through a checklist of things that MUST be done, and then, usually, the head doctor has had enough of me and nods to Dr. Sleepy. Then it is lights out.
It was a bit like that at WCW.
Put your bike here. How much do you weigh? How much do you really weigh? Get your gear back on. Sit on the bike, chubby.
There was laughter, that I was not included in, and the phrase “Dump Truck” was heard, followed by more giggling.
Hey, hey, hey….!
Measurements were taken. Get off the bike. A computer was brought into play… Ron and Papa John staring at the screen whispering quiet incantations, that I could only believe were some sort of Suspension Sorcery mumbo jumbo.
Now standing off to the side, I took a few images, half expecting one of them to turn, grab my iPhone, and toss it out into the busy Route 31 traffic. They seemed to ignore me. I was good with that. I was told to get back on the bike, which was held up, and off the side stand. I thought about the weight question (215 lbs of sinewy muscle wrapped by a good amount of protective blubber), but Papa John held the bike on an easy balancing point. I tried not to move. Ron looked up and asked for the ‘Special Tool.’ I looked at him and said… “Special Tool?” More a question than a statement. Yes, Hyperpro had a ‘Special Tool’ to adjust the pre-load of the spring. I had three of them. All three in my tool caddy, 50 miles north. Oh, oh. All this wizardry for naught. Well, the front end would be a bit better, and I was sent out on WCW’s Secret Test Track, called Jackson Valley Road in Warren County by the authorities, to see how much.
This is where the Suspend Belief stuff came into play. I was told that the Kawasaki would handle better than it ever could have before adjustment. “It will be like it is on rails,” was one comment from Papa J The front end was better, especially under braking.
When I returned, I said, “It might not be on rails, but at least it is on the tracks now.” Progress for sure; but Ron stated that the bike was “Nowhere near what it should be,” and I would have to come back the next day with the adjustment wrench. Okay, I could do that. Twenty-four hours later we rolled the Z900 back into WCW’s inner sanctum, and I handed the Hyperpro wrench to Ron. Papa John was not there that day but was replaced by the equally attentive and, like all these suspension surgeons, semi-stoic Scott.
We went through a lot of the ‘get on/get off’ the bike. Bounce on the seat. Get off. Get on. Measurements taken and retaken. The tool was used… a lot.
New and additional data was fed into the computer and did its computer thing. Ron and Scott stared at the screen. They looked back at the bike, then me, then back to the screen. They talked between themselves, like I was not there, like I remember my surgeons conversing.
There was more on and off, bouncing of the bike, and additional adjustments made, but now more precise and exact to the nth degree.
In a short while, Ron looked up and said test ride time.
But… he warned, to approach the Z900 as if I had never ridden it before. Not to manhandle the machine like he saw me do the previous day (Gee, I thought I was really riding it gracefully); and to think, and ease into the turns on WCW’s Secret Test Track, called Jackson Valley Road by the authorities in Warren County. Let the bike do what it wants to do now. Perform correctly, like a motorcycle should. I did just that, and it did just that!
There was no more ‘Suspension of Belief.’ The machine had changed. It had gone from a dump truck to a nice, compliant sportish motorcycle.
Where before I had to think about the Kawasaki in turns, the bike seemed to follow my thoughts. Ron said it should be almost telepathic, like on rails.
As if!
But it was so. The Z900 felt far lighter, and much more maneuverable, and heading into a turn clearly marked “Dangerous Curve” on WCW’s Secret Test Track, called Jackson Valley Road by the authorities in Warren County, I trail braked as smoothly as I could and, unlike how the bike had been handling, it now perfectly tracked where I was looking, and where I wanted and needed to be.
Suspension of Belief; and we quickly came to believe.
Praise the Road Gods and say Hallelujah.
I returned the smile easily seen; even with my Schuberth helmet on. Ron and Scott took a quick look at the bike one more time, nodded to each other and then shooed me away as the next patient, err, customer was already waiting.
The ride home, under clear skies and on dry warm pavement was … well it was amazing.
The Kawasaki Z900, that I really liked, was now something more. Not just a motorcycle that looked very cool and was nice to putt around on, but now it almost felt like a weapon in my hands. A scalpel.
Clearly, I know this is not the sportiest, best handling machine on the road, or track; and I have limited riding skills, and the kid on a Vespa will probably crush me.
But – the Kawasaki was far, far better than it was – and the real question is why did I wait so long to do this? All the track days and backroads miles might have been far betterer and more funner, if I had visited Washington Cycle Works back then.
Take that as a hint. A strong hint.
For me the season is just starting now, and I have miles to ride… and there is no suspension of belief there. ,
