Austin Monthly March 2020 by Austin Monthly

CELEBRATING 45 SEASONS OF ACL

Richard Linklater on Four Decades of Austin Film

THE CITYâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;S

Best TACOS!

MAR 2 02 0

Juicy Al Pastor, Crispy Picadillo, and the Greatest Elote This Side of the Border

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Contents AUSTIN MONTHLY M A RCH 2020

72 THE 25 GREATEST TACOS IN AUSTIN

The best spots to indulge your cravings for barbacoa, breakfast tacos, classic crispy, and more.

P HOTO BY S COTT NEWTON

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82 THE REEL WORLD

Filmmaker Richard Linklater reflects on the evolving landscape of local cinema and 35 years of the Austin Film Society.

90 HIGH NOTES, HIP HOP & HOLY MEN

The top moments and memories from 45 seasons of Austin City Limits.

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Contents

AUSTIN MONTHLY MARCH 2020

FROM THE EDITOR 28 CONTRIBUTORS 32 A-LIST 37

AISD’s school closure crisis 38 Mike Rypka on his Torchy’s Tacos empire 40 The To-Do List 42 Alamo Drafthouse hits the books 44 The Go-Go’s Kathy Valentine tells all 46

LIVING 49 40

Reenie Collins’ Favorite Things 50 Take a weekend sojourn to Dripping Springs 52 Spin in the dark at StarCycle 54

DINING 59

John Mueller’s smoked meat saga continues 60 Provision’s sports bar fare swings for the fences 62 Bryce Gilmore goes green at Barley Swine 64

ON THE COVER Discada Photo by Jeff Wilson

Volume 28/Number 3, March 2020, Austin Monthly (Publication No. 001-163), is published monthly, 12 times a year, by Open Sky Media, Inc., 1712 Rio Grande Street, Suite 100, Austin, TX 78701. Subscriptions are $14.95 per year for 12 issues. For customer service inquiries or to change your address by providing both the old and new addresses, contact: Austin Monthly, P.O. Box 15815, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5815. Telephone (818) 286-3160 or email subscriptions@austinmonthly.com. Periodicals postage paid at Austin, TX, and at additional mailing offices. Copyright 2019 by Open Sky Media, Inc. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Unsolicited manuscripts without return postage will not be returned. DISCLAIMER: Advertisements in the publication do not constitute an offer for sale in states where prohibited or restricted by law. Occasionally we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers, please advise us at Austin Monthly, PO Box 15815, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5815. Please include your name and address as it appears on the mailing label of your most recent issue.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Austin Monthly, PO Box 15815, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5815.

MIKE RYPKA, DREW ANTHONY SMITH; DEVILED EGGS, JESS ATTIE; LUCKY ARROW, COURTESY LUCKY ARROW

WEIRD HISTORY 128

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T H E M A G A Z I N E O F AU S T I N

March 2020

Vol. 28 | No. 3

Editor in Chief Chris Hughes Creative Director Sara Marie D’Eugenio

EDITORIA L

Executive Editor Madeline Hollern Associate Editor David Leffler Dining Critic Jolène M. Bouchon City Columnist Roxanne Evans Contributing Writers Dan Gentile, Trey Gutierrez

ART

Deputy Art Director Megan Bedford Contributing Photographers Jessica Attie, Mackenzie Smith Kelley, Sarah Frankie Linder, Drew Anthony Smith, Jeff Wilson Contributing Illustrators Dan Page, Charles Williams

DIGITA L

Digital Media Coordinator Rosie Ninesling

INTERNS

Editorial Candace Baker, Katya Bandouil, Manuela Guerra Fletcher, Mary Schmidt, Jennifer Xia

WEBSITE A ND S O C IAL ME D IA austinmonthly.com

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T H E M A G A Z I N E O F AU S T I N

March 2020

Vol. 28 | No. 3

Publisher Stewart Ramser Associate Publisher Julie A. Kunkle

A DVERTISING

Digital Sales Manager Misty Pennock Senior Account Executive Tina Mullins Account Director Mike McKee Digital Advertising Associate Maxine Pittman Strategic Account Manager Denise Janove Digital Advertising and Circulation Coordinator Abigail Stewart Ad Sales and Sponsorship Coordinator Jillian Clifton

A DM INISTRATION Accounting Manager Cindy Kim

REA DER SERVIC E S

Mailing Address 1712 Rio Grande St., Ste. 100 Austin, TX 78701 Phone (512) 263-9133 Fax (512) 957-2099 Advertising Inquiries advertising@austinmonthly.com Job Inquiries jobs@austinmonthly.com Story Ideas ideas@austinmonthly.com Letters to the Editor: Please send letters to feedback@ austinmonthly.com. Be sure to include your full name, city, state, and phone number. Letters sent to Austin Monthly become the magazineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s property, and it owns all rights to their use. Austin Monthly reserves the right to edit letters for clarity and length.

SUBS CRIP TIONS

Subscription Inquiries subscriptions@austinmonthly.com Subscriptions: To subscribe to Austin Monthly, please send $14.95 (for 12 issues), $24.95 (for 24 issues) or $34.95 (for 36 issues) to Austin Monthly, P.O. Box 15815, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5815. Subscribe by phone at (818) 286-3160 or online at subscriptions@austinmonthly.com. Address Changes: Please send to the address above or to subscriptions@austinmonthly.com. Back Issues: To order back issues of Austin Monthly, please go to austinmonthly.com or call (512) 263-9133 to order by phone. Bulk Orders: For information on bulk orders of Austin Monthly, please call (512) 263-9133.

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From the Editor

THE WRAP GAME

TACO

MADNESS VOTE TACO!

Starting on Feb. 26, you can support your favorite taco spot by taking part in our first-ever Taco Madness bracket. Who will take the inaugural

BEHIND THE ISSUE

Some of the best taco joints in town are housed in nondescript trailers sitting in parking lots. After spending a full day scouting various restaurants, Discada felt like the best cover subject—all too fitting, considering we’ve named them the best in the city for the past two years. We brought on photographer Jeff Wilson to capture the trailer on a bustling Friday night in January. Our models, Rosie Ninesling and Matthew Crain (along with Discada partner, Xose), were very patient as we shot during the dinner rush. The best part of the night came after we wrapped and got to feast! —Sara Marie D’Eugenio, Creative Director

taco trophy (yes, it’s a thing!), only you can

HAVE A PICTURE WORTH SHARING?

decide by voting online at austin monthly.com.

Chris Hughes EDITOR IN CHIEF

chughes@austinmonthly.com @cmhughestx | @chris_hughestx

Use #austinmonthly on Instagram for a chance to be reposted or see your image in print!

EDITOR, MEGAN BEDFORD; BEHIND THE ISSUE, SARA MARIE D’EUGENIO

don’t recall the first meal I ever ate in town, but I can certainly remember my first taste of Austin—an array of breakfast tacos (various combinations of crispy bacon, fluffy eggs, refried beans, and chorizo) served on hot-offthe-griddle flour tortillas at Juan in a Million. No dish is more emblematic of the city’s cuisine, or has inspired more heated water cooler conversations, than this fusion of Mexican technique and morning flavors. And for me, back in 2000, that introduction to the category had the resonance of a bona fide epiphany. Never again would I look at breakfast the same way. Just as memorable as that first savory, spicy bite dribbling with salsa was the man who greeted me in the midst of his restaurant’s perpetual scrum of customers: owner Juan Meza, a first-generation Mexican American whose warm handshake and photographic memory have become the stuff of East Austin lore. A neighborhood fixture on Cesar Chavez for almost four decades now, Meza seemingly knew everyone by first name—a tradition that continues with his son, Juan Jr. (aka Juanito), who has taken on more responsibility within the family business. The passion we exude for our favorite restaurants can be credited to that type of familiarity, where we get to know the faces and customs behind the dish. You’ll see a lot of that in our feature, “The 25 Greatest Tacos in Austin” (p. 72), where you’ll read as much about succulent carnitas and game-changing migas tacos as you will about the people cooking them. Along with a recipe for extraordinary elote, and insights into the magical pairing of barbacoa and Big Red, we highlight chefs like Jose Luis Perez (El Primo), who turned the lessons from his father’s meat market in Michoacan, Mexico, into South First’s most storied taco trailer. Legacy also plays an integral role in “High Notes, Hip Hop & Holy Men” (p. 90), a look at the most memorable moments in Austin City Limits’ 45-season history, as told by executive producer, Terry Lickona, and the show’s head photographer, Scott Newton. Then there’s Richard Linklater, the subject of “The Reel World” (p. 82),” whose ongoing efforts with the Austin Film Society, and of course, films like Slacker, have cemented his status on the Mount Rushmore of influential Austinites. Like that first bite into a Juan in a Million breakfast taco, I’m proud to say, there’s so much to enjoy.

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Contributors Roxanne Evans

“CLASS DISMISSED”

A graduate of Drake University, Roxanne Evans has worked in journalism and public relations for nearly three decades, including for The Des Moines Register, The Des Moines Tribune, and as deputy press secretary for Gov. Ann Richards. During her 10 years at the Austin American-Statesman, she became the paper’s first African American editorial writer. A fervent supporter of black history research and an active public education advocate, Evans proved an ideal expert for “Class Dismissed” (p. 37), which examines AISD’s controversial decision to close four majority-minority elementary schools and what it spells for the city moving forward.

Mackenzie Smith Kelley

“THE 25 GREATEST TACOS IN AUSTIN”

Born and raised in Odessa, Texas, Mackenzie Smith Kelley lived in Brooklyn for 10 years before leaving for Austin—a place she considers the perfect mix of the West Texas plains and the Big Apple. In 2017, she co-founded The World in a Pocket, an online project dedicated to understanding the world through a culinary lens. The photographer for this issue’s food feature, “The 25 Greatest Tacos in Austin” (p. 72), Kelley spent almost a month traipsing around town, photographing (and eventually eating) the top tacos in the city, while also getting to know the people who make them. She says it was, without a doubt, one of the best months of her life.

Charles Williams

A London-based illustrator and designer, Charles Williams runs Made Up, an innovative illustration and type studio. For more than a decade, he has designed magazine covers, book covers, ad campaigns, animation, and branding for clients ranging from The Washington Post and Wired to Nike, Adidas, and Uniqlo. Williams heavily researched Richard Linklakter’s films to create his illustration for “The Reel World” (p. 82), admitting that “the trickiest part of this project was communicating both Linklater’s likeness, and the simple shape of film reels.” When he’s not working, Williams cycles around the roads of idyllic Hertfordshire and loves listening to electronic music (though not at the same).

COURTESY THE CONTRIBUTORS

“THE REEL WORLD”

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MIKE RYPKA OF TORCHY’S p. 40 ALAMO DRAFTHOUSE GETS BOOKISH p. 44 THE GO-GO’S KATHY VALENTINE p. 46

A-List

CLASS DISMISSED Last fall, Austin’s school district voted to shutter a handful of select schools— a decision experts and advocates see as racially motivated. BY ROXANNE EVANS

I LLUSTR ATI ON BY DAN PAGE

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Last November, the Austin Independent School District (AISD) Board of Trustees cast a historic vote to close four area schools. With targets that included three predominantly minority schools in East Austin, the decision has drawn the ire of local lawmakers and cries of racism from education advocates. As AISD prepares to launch another round of closures—one that could shutter an additional eight campuses— discussions have dredged up questions concerning Austin’s checkered racial past. Stakeholders are presenting the decision as an opportunity to save the district upwards of $200 million, but the closures come more as a consequence of the city’s exponential growth. As suburban sprawl has increased and Austin’s urban core has gentrified, public school enrollment has dipped, particularly in neighborhoods that have traditionally housed low-income black and Hispanic families. Beyond cost of living, the factors fueling this phenomenon include the declining quality of schools and the growing presence of charter campuses. Talks of school closures have been going on for years, but the district’s recent efforts are by far its most significant. After holding a series of heated public meetings to explore the prospect of closing a selection of older campuses, the board of trustees’ decision paved the way to shutter Metz, Pease, Brook, and Sims elementary schools by the ’20-’21 school year. Of the four, Pease (a diverse campus located just west of the Capitol) is the only one located outside of East Austin.

Roll Call

Statistics show that Austin’s school closures disproportionately target communities of color.

Dr. Kevin Foster says closing schools mirrors Austin’s racist past.

Dr. Kevin Foster, a UT professor who specializes in race and education, says these actions mirror Austin’s long-standing reputation of reinforcing racism through systematic inequality. “Austin didn’t have open racial terrorism or violence like Black Wall Street or massive lynchings, like other parts of Texas. But, on the other hand, it has been a sort of death by a thousand policy cuts,” he says. “Privileged interests have always

80+20

squeezed out and harmed marginalized communities and schools.” Foster’s not alone in his assessment of the situation. During a publicly televised school board meeting in the fall, AISD chief equity officer, Dr. Stephanie Hawley, referred to the school closure map as an example of “21stcentury racism”—a not-so-veiled rebuke of the district’s mantra that the plan provides “21st-century learning opportunities.”

905

83 Percent of students dis-

Number of students enrolled at

6/9 Proportion of AISD board

placed by upcoming closures

the four elementary schools set

members who voted in favor of

who are black and Hispanic

to be shuttered

school closings

SARA MARIE D’EUGENIO

A-LIS T THE CITY

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To bolster her argument, Hawley spent months crafting a lengthy analysis of the district’s closure plans. Beyond arguing that closing campuses “are short-term and often short-sighted approaches” that do not support student success, her report found that AISD’s strategy was rushed, lacked transparency, and likely wouldn’t result in any substantial savings for the city. Unfortunately, reporting by the Austin American-Statesman found that district administrators shelved Hawley’s findings days before the school board’s November vote— meaning trustees (along with the public) didn’t have a chance to review them before reaching their decision. When the dust settled, six board members (five of whom were white) voted in favor of shuttering the campuses. Dr. Jayme Mathias, who represents a district that includes parts of East Austin, Southeast Austin, and Travis Heights, argued his pro-closure vote was one that prioritizes students and programming over declining buildings. “Like our decision earlier this summer to give historic raises to our AISD teachers, our board chose last night to invest in our people, our kids,” he said in a Nov. 19 statement. “We’ve chosen to take the first, necessary step toward rightsizing our district and investing more resources in less schools, rather than less resources in more schools.” Critics argue Mathias’ thinking is misguided and misses the mark. “Our students will ultimately fare better if we chart a course forward that builds more on our strengths,” says Arati Singh, one of the district’s at-large trustees. “Let’s allow our chief equity officer help us make the process equitable, and bring our communities into the process earlier. This could help restore transparency, repair community trust, and build on our strengths.” The district has struggled to provide consistent figures to back its financial claims, but with administrators insisting there won’t be closure-related layoffs, savings would have to stem largely from maintenance costs. With eight more campuses in peril of suffering similar fates, Hawley says she’s committed to supporting families impacted by November’s decision while working with senior community leaders to build a more equitable educational framework. Looking ahead, community members are exploring several avenues to challenge the district’s recent decisions. In addition to taking aim at pro-closure trustees seeking re-election in 2020, advocates are filing open records requests to examine district estimates of savings claims, and investigating potential conflicts of interest that could have influenced November’s vote. Hawley is also encouraging the district to seek a third-party equity audit before moving forward. “It was healthy that the district undertook an internal self-audit, but you can’t grade your own paper,” she says. If history is any indicator, Austin can expect to revisit the issues of race, color, and class in its schools well beyond 2020. Whether the district learns from its mistakes, however, remains to be seen. AM

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A- L IST THING S I’ V E L EA RNED

MIKE RYPKA Founder, Torchy’s Tacos 18 YEARS IN AUSTIN

In 2006, Mike Rypka bought a food truck and a red Vespa and secured a downtown Austin street corner to sell his tacos—a decision he says, in hindsight, was “f***ing nuts.” And yet, the gambit paid off. Nearly 15 years and millions of tortillas later, the Virginia native’s trailer-born food empire spans five states and more than 70 locations. With Torchy’s gearing up for its biggest year yet, Rypka looks back at the uncertain beginnings of his “Damn Good Tacos” and the successes that have since turned him into a Texas culinary giant. I N T E R V I E W B Y D A V I D L E F F L E R What were some of your early food inspirations? Oh man, I fell in love with Latin food while studying at Johnson & Wales in Miami. I was always playing with plantains and black beans; for me, they were fun, new ingredients that I didn’t get to really experience while previously working in D.C. It completely opened my world up. How did you end up in Austin? I ran several big corporate kitchens for companies like Marriott, MTV, and Enron, and I came to Austin to do the same for Dell. My time at MTV probably made for the strangest stories; we’d have to prepare food for a lot of their artists, which came with all kinds of strange requests—I’m talking bowls filled solely with green M&M’s, that sort of thing. How did Torchy’s come about? One of my friends had an old barbecue trailer and asked if I wanted to open up a taco truck. I told him he was nuts. But the more we talked about it, the more it inspired me; I knew there were great tacos in Austin, but I thought I could take those existing concepts and flip them on their heads. What were work conditions like in the trailer? Oh, it was a f***ing nightmare at the beginning. I’m sitting there, sweating and grinding in the August heat, getting cooked alive in this trailer. And remember, back then, food trucks weren’t the cool, hip thing they are now. As a chef, I was a little embarrassed to tell people I was working out of one. It just had zero street cred back then. I was begging people just to let me park it somewhere. P HOTO BY DR EW ANT H ONY SMIT H

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“Food trucks weren’t the cool, hip thing they are now... It just had zero street cred back then.” What did your menu look like in the beginning? It was pretty bare bones: a beef fajita, a chicken fajita, some breakfast tacos, and a fajita plate. We needed a signature dish, so I came up with our green chile pork—which is still one of our best-sellers. Once I got settled in, I created a monthly special, which spawned our now-famous Taco of the Month. The first of those was our Trailer Park [fried chicken and green chiles smothered in poblano sauce]; it’s still our top-selling taco today. How did your red Vespa come into play? I drove that Vespa around and handed out bags of chips and salsa to anybody and everybody I could. Art galleries, salons, office buildings—any place I could get a little exposure, I went. I even posted people up at Fifth and Lamar with coolers full of breakfast tacos during high-traffic times. We just had to keep plugging away. Did moving the Torchy’s trailer to its (recently closed) South First spot change your fortunes? Sort of. We were still desperate for attention, so we created a giant pumpkin patch during October [laughs]—I’m talking 50 pallets, thousands of pounds of pumpkins. It worked: About a week before Halloween, a crowd showed up because, as it turned out, we were the only place in town with pumpkins. People went wild, and even bought a few tacos.

It sounds like those early days were pretty frenetic. It took us more than two years before we started breaking even or making a profit. I worked 100 hours a week during that time. My days started at 5 a.m. and ended at midnight. It was exhausting, but there always seemed to be these mini breakthroughs that would come up when we needed it most—a big catering gig, a new review in a local publication. Those little victories kept us going. What are the elements necessary for a great taco? I love combining different textures and taste sensations—to create a flavor and sensory explosion in your mouth. For instance, our Trailer Park has a little bit of spice with the fried chicken, paired with the cool lettuce and the creamy roasted poblano sauce. The kick from the pico brings it all home. These days, we’ve got a stockade of to-be-released concepts where we keep our best ideas. Some haven’t seen the light of day yet. You’ve got more than 70 store locations these days. Could you have ever imagined this type of growth? The mission was always to go from a trailer to a brick-and-mortar, but that was it. It’s humbling to say, but we just opened our 71st Torchy’s in December, and we’re aiming to open another 20 locations this year. Luckily, I still get to focus on the food and the marketing to ensure we stay true to our roots. AM

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A-LIS T E V ENTS

THE TO-DO LIST MARCH 6 PEE-WEE’S BIG ADVENTURE 35TH ANNIVERSARY TOUR Thirty-five years ago, Paul Reubens and Tim Burton collaborated on Pee-wee’s Big Adventure, a surprise hit that not only spurred a beloved Saturday morning children’s program, but launched Pee-wee Herman into the ’80s cultural zeitgeist. To celebrate the film’s landmark anniversary, ACL Live is hosting a special screening before Reubens regales audience members with behind-the-scenes memories about the making of the movie. acl-live.com

MARCH 11-22 ALADDIN The Tony-winning Broadway adaptation of the 1992 Disney classic hits Bass Concert Hall and invites audiences to experi-

ence “a whole new world” of epic adventure. Renowned for its charming blend of humor, stunning theatrics, romance, and—you guessed it—plenty of magic, the timeless production is sure to be a spectacle for attendees of all ages. texasperformingarts.org

MARCH 14 HOLI CELEBRATION AT RADHA MADHAV DHAM Also called the Indian “festival of spring” and “the festival of colors,” Holi is a high-energy holiday where participants shower one another with vibrant powder paint (called “Gulal”) to celebrate the arrival of spring. Swing by Radha Madhav Dham, a picturesque Hindu temple nestled in the Hill Country, to experience this unique tradition with a spirited day full of music, food, and dancing. radha madhavdham.org

MARCH 14-28 RODEO AUSTIN A city-wide tradition since 1938, Rodeo Austin returns to town for two action-packed weeks of mutton bustin’, bull riding, and barrel racing. Additionally, the event includes a stock show, the city’s largest carnival, and a rotating cast of vendors selling local food and beer to fill up on before each night’s live performance. This year’s lineup features artists like Martina McBride and Flo Rida. rodeoaustin.com

MARCH 25-29 WORLD GOLF CHAMPIONSHIPS Hosted at the idyllic Austin Country Club, the WGC-Dell Technologies Match Play pits the top 64 golfers in the world against one another in a rare match-play

BY CANDACE BAKER

format. One of the most elite and exciting PGA tournaments of the year, the four-day lakeside competition promises to be a sunsplashed athletic classic. pgatour .com

MARCH 27 BRITTANY HOWARD Known for her powerful vocals and stirring lyrics, Brittany Howard has propelled the Alabama Shakes to international stardom over the past decade. Now, fresh off the release of her first-ever solo album, Jaime, Howard arrives in town to perform her latest work at Stubb’s Waller Creek Amphitheater. stubbsaustin.com

MARCH 27-28 URBAN MUSIC FEST Now in its 15th year, Urban Music Fest is the ultimate musical expe-

Top Things to Do at SXSW Wellness Expo March 14-15

Fire, known best for his work as part of reggae-EDM fusion

From in-home products like the Sleep Crown Over-The-Head

group, Major Lazer.

Pillow to new nutritional supplements like Grassroots Harvests’ sustainably grown CBD, this two-day wellness showcase

Flatstock Poster Show March 19-21

immerses festival goers into the self-care industry’s latest offer-

Presented by the American Poster Institute, Flatstock exhibits a

ings. The event also includes group activities like instructor-led

jaw-dropping collection of concert gig posters from the world’s

meditation sessions and high-intensity fitness classes.

top artists, like frequent attendees, Jay Ryan and Jason Munn. This three-day pop-up gallery is a must-see for poster collectors, music historians, and anyone with an eye for rare art.

Walshy Fire March 16-22 SXSW is famous for the vast amount of global musical talent it

Featured Films: Really Love March 13-21

draws every year, and 2020 is no different. With more than 2,000

With more than 8,000 submissions for this year’s festival,

expected performers, it’s easy to get sidetracked, but make sure

SXSW’s revered film portion continues to impress. Among its

you carve out some time for Australian singer-songwriter, Kota

most-anticipated premieres: Angel Christi Williams’ Really Love,

Banks (whose debut single, “Empty Streets,” has quickly become

a dynamic narrative about a rising black painter navigating life’s

a pop music phenomenon), and Jamaican American DJ, Walshy

personal challenges and a rapidly gentrifying Washington, D.C.

Flatstock Poster Show is a must-see for lovers of art.

COURTESY LAUREN LINDLEY

Showcasing Artists: Kota Banks and

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For more events, visit austinmonthly.com/events.

Sturgill Simpson

rience for fans of R&B, jazz, gospel, and soul. Hosted at Auditorium Shores and featuring past performances by icons like Chaka Khan and Dru Hill, the festival regularly draws nearly 10,000 attendees from across the country. urbanmusic fest.com

MARCH 28 STURGILL SIMPSON Often compared to outlaw country giants like Waylon Jennings and Merle Haggard, Sturgill Simpson’s booming voice and rugged style have made him one of the genre’s biggest acts since the release of his 2013 album, High Top Mountain. Catch Simpson performing hits like “Turtles All the Way Down” and “Long White Line” at the Frank Erwin Center for his Good Look’n Tour alongside rising superstar, Tyler Childers. uterwincenter.org

COURTESY RETO STERCHI

MARCH 29 ZILKER KITE FESTIVAL What started as a quaint kite contest in 1929 has evolved into one of Austin’s most-anticipated family-friendly traditions. Whether it’s kite flying, taking a jog in its fun run, or jamming out with the kiddos at MossFest (the festival’s kid-centric concert series), there’s a full day of activities to enjoy at Zilker Park’s colorful rite of spring. abckitefest.org AM AU ST INM O NT H LY.C O M / M AR C H 2 0 2 0

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A-LIS T PO P NE WS

FAST FORWARD

n an era dominated by on-demand streaming services and luxury theater experiences, few still revel in the bygone days of VCRs, neighborhood video stores, and other analog means of enjoying film. And yet, the most devoted cinephiles have remained steadfast in their dedication to VHS tapes, plastic cartridges that have come to embody a long-lost era of movie watching. Now, the retro cassettes get their due in Alamo Drafthouse’s first foray into publishing. Written by video historian Josh Schafer, Stuck on VHS: A Visual History of Video Stickers marks the debut title in Alamo’s newly established publishing arm. Through the artwork and throwback aesthetic of those unmistakable video store stickers (“$1.00 Charge If Not Rewound”), the book

explores the growing cult of VHS culture and its crucial role in the evolution of film. Like its ongoing Video Vortex initiative, this latest venture from Alamo CEO Tim League falls in line with the company’s efforts to preserve video culture. Four locations nationwide have video stores in their lobbies—with plans ongoing to open more this year—and the company has its own digitization project through the American Genre Film Archive. “It’s a format that isn’t really getting the archivists’ respect that classic films like Charlie Chaplin and Orson Welles do,” League says. “There are a ton of movies and shot-on-video material that are only out there on VHS, so we see the fragility of that and want to promote what’s special about it.” Although Alamo has intermittently released several books in the past, League

says a separate infrastructure is necessary to support the print opportunities that continue to bubble up in the company’s pipeline. Beyond exploring niche avenues of film geekdom, self-publishing promises chances to create interactive events around new releases, including a book tour for Schafer featuring throwback VHS tape swaps at Alamo-adjacent bars. Other undisclosed books are slated for publication later this year, with all titles delving into subjects that bolster Alamo’s mission of uniting movie lovers. Stuck on VHS is just a taste of what’s to come, League says. “It’s a glimpse into the deep world of content and fandom,” he says. “It speaks to our commitment to being a voice within the archive community, one that celebrates the history of the entire medium.” AM

SARA MARIE D’EUGENIO

Alamo Drafthouse delves into the world of publishing with a nostalgic look at VHS culture. BY CANDACE BAKER

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Picture Perfect After discovering a 1994 home video of a child’s first steps on a VHS tape, local filmmaker Jim McKay reunites TyRe Alexander (now 26 years old) and his family with their longlost memento on the Today Show.

AL L I E V E R WA N T E D K AT H Y VA L E N T I N E

Bat Coin The U.S. Mint releases its newest quarter design, featuring Samoan fruit bats. While not Austin’s beloved Mexican free-tail variety, they’re bound to be collectibles in Bat City.

A ROCK 'N' ROLL MEMOIR

LIPS UNSEALED

Kathy Valentine’s new memoir explores her Austin beginnings, her wild heyday with The Go-Go’s, and the band’s reunion after an infamously messy breakup. BY DAVID LEFFLER

n 1978, Kathy Valentine hopped in her 1968 Oldsmobile Delta 88 and drove to California to take part in Los Angeles’ emerging punk scene. Within two years, the bass player established herself as one of the leading voices in The Go-Go’s, the first all-female rock band to score a No. 1 hit (“Our Lips Are Sealed”) and No. 1 album (Beauty and the Beat). In her candid new book, All I Ever Wanted: A Rock ‘N’ Roll Memoir, which comes out in April, Valentine reflects on the highs of global stardom, the lows of substance abuse, and the aftermath of one of the ’80s great pop bands. Austin Roots Valentine came of age at a time when legends like Willie Nelson and Stevie Ray Vaughan graced Austin stages. Looking back, she says, the relationships she formed with the town’s biggest stars inspired her to pursue music. “Growing up here, it didn’t matter that all of the musicians I encountered were men; I felt supported at times when they could have easily dismissed me,” she says. “I looked up to them, and they helped propel me forward.” Life of the Party Creating The Go-Go’s critically acclaimed

debut album, Beauty and the Beat, required nonstop recording, touring, and promotion—a taxing experience enlivened by the group’s partying ways. After their homecoming show in LA celebrating the LP’s 1981 release, Valentine downed several hits of LSD, spelling disaster when she showed up, tripping and with lipstick smeared across her face, for an 8 a.m. appearance at Licorice Pizza Records. Other escapades included midnight jam sessions at Guitar Center with comedian and mega-fan, John Belushi, coke-fueled benders, and surviving an in-home break-in by a crazed, knife-wielding burglar. Family Matters Valentine had an unconventional relationship with her mother, with the two often drinking and socializing together late into the night. Now back in Austin and a mom herself, she says writing the book helped her to reflect on her troubled upbringing. “I was a confused, lost child without any parental guidance. I was always supported, but I needed boundaries and protection,” she says. “This memoir helped me process all of it. My heart has opened to her in a way I never thought imaginable.” AM

Supermarket Sweep H-E-B is named the top grocer in the U.S. by a leading national data science firm, besting contenders like Trader Joe’s and Costco in price, quality, convenience, and speed.

Best & Worst The good, the bad, and the just plain weird of the month

Reality Bites A lawsuit against a Fredericksburg Airbnb owner hits the Texas Supreme Court after the property’s caretaker is bitten by a brown recluse and incurs more than $600,000 in medical expenses. The Pan is Mightier than the Sword Fifty-nine-year-old Tony Aldaco is arrested outside a Mexican restaurant after whacking an employee across the face with a 15-by18-inch aluminum baking pan. Spring Fever Cedar pollen levels reach 27,000 grains per cubic meter in January—eight times higher than the previous top count.

VALENTINE, COURTESY CHRISTOPHER DURST, HEB, SARA MARIE D’EUGENIO; TREE, SHUTTERSTOCK

A-LIS T B O OKS

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FAVORITE THINGS p. 50 EIGHT REASONS TO VISIT DRIPPING SPRINGS p. 52 SPIN CLASSES IN THE DARK p. 54

Living

MOTOR SKILLS After years of doing upholstery work on motorcycles and hot rods, Carlos Castaneda began receiving more and more requests for intricate custom jobs. “The designs got bigger and crazier, and I kind of ran out of room,” he says. “It dawned on me that we should put them on a piece of wood and frame them.” In 2010, he created Sick Strings, artwork that utilizes automotive fabrics such as vinyl, velvet, and leather to capture everything from flowers and skulls to a portrait of Willie Nelson. For his wall art, he hand-cuts the fabrics with a razor blade, pieces and glues them together, and sews them onto foam board for a 3-D appearance. Shop the vibrant designs ($50 and up) at sickstrings.net. —M A DEL INE HO L L ER N

P HOTO BY SA R A H FRANKIE LINDE R

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L I V ING F A V ORI TE TH I NGS

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, HEALTH ALLIANCE FOR AUSTIN MUSICIANS

REENIE COLLINS

1 Recycled Karma Graphic T-Shirts I wish I had saved all of my graphic tees from back in the day, so I pick up these retro concert tees at Neiman Marcus to wear to work. Lucky for me, I have a job that lets me wear great T-shirts and boots to work every day. 2 Oribe Spray Wax When you have thick hair like mine, you need great taming products. I use this daily and could not live without it.

3 YSL All Hours Foundation I don’t always wear a lot of makeup, but this foundation from YSL is flawless. It gives me great coverage while still keeping my natural look.

5 Kyme Sunglasses I picked these up while in Italy and wear them every day.

6 Michelle Ma’Belle Cuff Bracelet I love statement jewelry—more is more to me. I picked up this bracelet at Hearth & Soul here in Austin. 7 Cowboy Boots Boots will always be a musthave in this Texan’s closet. I love my HAAM boots by Noel Escobar at Texas Custom Boots. He is a true craftsman.

MEGAN BEDFORD

s an Austin native, Reenie Collins wants to ensure that her hometown upholds its status as the “Live Music Capital of the World.” After working for decades in health care administration, Collins took the helm of the Health Alliance for Austin Musicians (HAAM) in 2013. The nonprofit provides affordable health care to more than 2,600 Central Texas musicians—the vast majority of whom make less than $24,000 a year. “These musicians are working two or more jobs, and really to be an artist or anything where you’re an expert at your craft, it takes thousands and thousands of hours,” she says. “They’ve got to write and practice their music, practice with their band, market themselves—all of these pieces make it really hard.” This year, the organization is boosting its outreach to Latino and African American artists as well as younger musicians based here. “We are focusing on those communities because they’re a really vibrant part of the music scene, and we want people to stay and be successful,” she says. Since 2015, HAAM has been the beneficiary of one of SXSW’s most popular annual events, Ray Benson’s Birthday Party, held this month on March 17. When Collins isn’t busy supporting local creatives, she spends her free time filling her home with eclectic finds from her world travels. Here are a few of her favorite things. — M . H O L L E R N

4 Moroccan Cat While on a recent trip to Morocco, I fell in love with these handmade African beaded animals. After purchasing a few, I became friends with the shop owner, and he insisted I take home this funky feline as his gift.

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Clockwise from top left: Lucky Arrow Retreat; Le Vacher; Abby Jane Bakeshop.

WEST SIDE STORY

Can’t get a reservation into Hamilton Pool? No sweat. Discover the countless other alluring diversions in Dripping Springs. BY MADELINE HOLLERN

DINE Don’t let the casual ambience of Pieous fool you, as the restaurant, located just east of Dripping Springs, serves up some of Central Texas’ most impressive Neapolitan-style pizza. Snag a seat on the patio before ordering a char-blistered pie or two (we suggest the Smoky Italian with fresh mozz and housesmoked sausage), and its can’t-miss pastrami board. Searching for a new date night spot? French for “the herdsman,” soon-to-open Le Vacher will feature a Texanized twist on a French brasserie. The restaurant’s menu includes shareable plates like tartiflette alsacienne, a warm potato casserole with bacon and Muenster cheese, as well as steaks, pork chops, and half-chickens that are cooked sous-vide and finished on the plancha.

EXPLORE Catch both arthouse or big-budget flicks at Sky Cinemas, which features luxe reclining seats and a farm-to-table menu boasting allangus beef burgers, scratch-made pizza, and Lick ice cream. Opened in 2018, the independent movie theater also serves 24 craft beers on tap inside and a dozen at its alfresco beer garden, which hosts live music on weekends starting in the spring. Culinary enthusiasts should book a behind-the-scenes tour at Barton Springs Mill, a stone mill that utilizes heirloom grains and corn. Sign up for one of its interactive classes, such as a Heritage Grains and Sourdough Bread workshop, and keep an eye out for the spring opening of on-site Abby Jane Bakeshop, helmed by former Dai Due pastry chef, Abby Love.

DRINK A hub for breweries and distilleries, the Dripping Springs area boasts plenty of spots for good libations, such as the world-renowned Jester King Brewery. Situated on a scenic 165-acre ranch, the farmhouse brewery uses water from its own well, plus locally grown grains and native wild yeast to produce distinctive brews like its SPON series of tart, spontaneously fermented ales. Check its online calendar for a list of recurring and pop-up events throughout the year, including Bluegrass Fridays and the Goat Mile, an adorable run with the brewery’s resident Nigerian dwarf goats. STAY Looking to unplug? Spend the night in a modern porch house, cabin, or yurt at Lucky Arrow Retreat, a 15-acre hideaway that opened in spring 2019. Take a dip in the heated pool, walk next door to Bell Springs Winery for an afternoon sip of rosé, and stargaze by the firepits at night. Be sure to reserve a ride in Troopy, the retreat’s retro Land Cruiser, which fits up to nine passengers and allows guests to explore in style. AM

LUCKY ARROW, COURTESY LUCKY ARROW; LE VACHER, COURTESY GIANT NOISE / JULIA KEIM; ABBY JANE BAKESHOP, COURTESY CASEY WOODS PHOTOGRAPHY

L I V ING N E I GH B ORH OOD GUI DE

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L I V ING F I TNE S S

StarCycle’s coowner, Bex Irvine.

FADE TO BLACK

A Portland-based spin studio makes privacy a priority with its light-free workouts. BY MADELINE HOLLERN

might be an extrovert in my day-today life, but I’m completely introverted when it comes to one thing: group fitness. In workout classes, I beeline to the back of the room and pray

no one watches me stumble through the movements. So, I was thrilled to hear of a spin studio that conducts its classes in near darkness—and hence, away from prying eyes. StarCycle, which opened its first Texas

location in Cedar Park this winter, features 45-minute spin sessions that take place by the light of four candles, and occasionally, a small spotlight on the instructor. Once you’re clipped into one of the studio’s 32 stationary bikes, the class begins with all the movements and music of a traditional indoor cycling session, with sprints, dips, and tap backs paired to the bumping beats of artists like Lizzo and Ellie Goulding. Most of the workout alternates cycling in sitting and standing positions with your hands gripped on the handles, but a portion includes pedaling while lifting small weights. Unlike many studios, however, you won’t find bright neon lights or screens ranking every cyclists’ speed at StarCycle. Cellphones are also banned, deterring annoying influencers from wrecking the vibe with any live-broadcasting. While it takes your eyes a while to adjust to the darkness, I didn’t experience the discomfort I normally feel from pacing behind other riders or being less coordinated on a bike, freeing me to actually enjoy the session. Flailing along in my own workout high, I turned to my friend and snuck her a smile—although I’m pretty sure she missed it. After all, it was blissfully dark. starcycleride.com/studios/cedar-park AM

SAUNA, COURTESY EQUINOX; STARCYCLE, COURTESY ALYSE GREEN PHOTOGRAPHY

These classes take place with only the light of four candles.

Sweat Equity As if you needed another reason to go to South Congress, Equinox opened its first Austin outpost on the trendy thoroughfare in November. Filled with floor-to-ceiling windows, the luxe fitness club includes equipment for cardio and strength training, cycling and reform Pilates studios, and a group fitness room. Recover post-workout with a massage or facial at its on-site mini spa, then grab a smoothie at Roots Juices bar in the lobby. The gym offers two-hour validated garage parking for members, so you won’t have to fight for a spot on SoCo. 1007 South Congress Ave., Ste. 100, equinox.com/clubs/texas/austin

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Dining

POUR ONE OUT In Spain, drinking is more a marathon than a sprint. And how you complete the race without stumbling to the finish line is a bite of Jamón Ibérico here, a pinxto (a Basque version of tapas) or two there. That spirit of drawn-out revelry is alive and well at Kevin Fink and Tavel Bristol-Joseph’s latest restaurant concept, Kalimotxo, which they opened concurrently with live-fire restaurant, Hestia. Flexing on the communal, fête-like feel, the team behind Emmer & Rye has made the porrón the centerpiece of its drinks program. The glass pitcher, which can be filled with an array of Spanish wines and funky Basque ciders, is designed for patrons to imbibe straight from the spigot. Dribbling is inevitable, but practice makes perfect—and practice has never been so much fun. — C H RIS H UGHE S

P HOTO BY JESSICA AT T IE

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DI N ING LOC AL L E GAC I E S

PLAYING WITH FIRE John Mueller has been creating memorable barbecue for decades, but the scion of Taylor’s famous Mueller clan has also left behind a trail of bad blood and business fiascos. Now on his fourth Austin-area restaurant, we look back at the triumphs and travails of one of Texas’ most gifted pitmasters. BY CHRIS HUGHES

START

1993 At 25 years old, John Mueller takes over manning the indoor pit at his grandfather’s restaurant, the famed Louie Mueller Barbecue of Taylor,

1999

Texas, opened in 1949.

Mueller divorces his wife and starts dating a fellow employee. They elope in San Antonio a few months later, creating a rift between him and his father, Bobby. A year later he sells his por-

2001-2006

tion of the business back to the family and quits.

John Mueller’s B-B-Q, located on Manor Road, marks John’s solo

2011

debut. He creates a cult following

John returns in October, declaring on Twitter, “This is happening.” Along with his sister, LeAnn,

from ’cue made on a $1,500 pit that he finds on the side of the road in

Bastrop. Money troubles and per-

he opens a small trailer in South

sonal demons seal the restaurant’s

Austin called JMueller BBQ,

fate five years later.

which Anthony Bourdain lauds show, No Reservations.

2012 LeAnn files a police report accusing her brother of embezzling money.

2013

He’s fired from the business, and

Mueller resurfaces with a

the trailer is renamed La Barbecue,

new East Austin restaurant,

where it thrives under new pitmaster,

John Mueller Meat Co.

John Lewis.

Three years later, the state comptroller seizes the business for non-payment of taxes.

Dec. 2019

2019

2017

Mueller brings back his renowned

Over Labor Day weekend, Black Box’s

On 1300 AM’s “The Great Outdoors,”

brisket and cheesy squash inside

temporary permit expires and its

Mueller announces that he’s opening

Granger City Brewing with his newly

original location on East Ninth Street

his third area restaurant, Black Box,

dubbed restaurant, Barbecue by John

closes. It relocates outside of Uncle

in downtown Georgetown. Two years

Mueller.

Gary’s Bar in Pflugerville, but the

later, Texas Monthly declares it one

resurrection is short-lived.

of the state’s “Top New Barbecue Joints.”

LOUIE MUELLER BARBECUE AND TRAY OF FOOD, MEGAN BEDFORD; RING, HEADSTONE, FOODTRUCK, ANTHONY BOURDAIN, SHUTTERSTOCK; TEXAS MONTHLY COVER, COURTESY TEXAS MONTHLY

on an episode of his television

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DI N ING R E S TAURANT RE VI E W

PROVISION

An upscale sports bar looks to score big with a better class of gameday fare, but too often fumbles at the goal line. BY JOLÈNE M. BOUCHON

ith my enthusiasm for athletic feats limited to my 10-year-old’s soccer team, I’ve never found the proper motivation for patronizing sports bars. But when someone described Albert Gonzalez’s (Grizzelda’s) newest concept, Provision, as “kind of a sports bar, kind of not, but with really good food,” I was intrigued. Though stacked with the kind of gamedaywatching fare I’d expect to see at a typical sports bar (i.e., sliders, wings, and burgers), the menu emphasizes the pedigree of its sourcing, listing ingredients such as Duroc pork and handmade corn tortillas that enfold

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Oaxaca cheese and braised short rib in its quesadilla. There are also those little extra touches, like the splashes of house-made hot sauce that decorate a plate of deviled eggs, and chicken wings that are beer-brined and carved into lollipops, that make it clear Gonzalez is taking a more conscientious approach with the category. Housed in the shuttered Red’s Porch location on Quarry Lake, the space has been given a sophisticated midcentury polish with walnut wood, tawny leather booths, and sapphire upholstery. The cold concrete floors of its former self remain, and yes, there are the requisite giant televisions—something I normally abhor when dining out—yet, here, they somehow manage to remain unobtrusive. Beyond the space itself, there’s one other significant connection to the defunct Red’s Porch: Gonzalez served as its culinary director. Coming after fine-dining stints at Jacoby’s and Apothecary Wine Bar, he learned the paramount skill of creating elevated comfort foods accessible enough for a crowd. True to form, Gonzalez offers “a little something extra under the hood” at Provision, like the juicy brisket and dry-aged chuck burger that’s served on an oat wheat bun slathered with pink peppercorn aioli. There’s also that seeming must-have of every casual spot nowadays, the fried chicken sandwich, which the chef brines in buttermilk, confits, then nestles in a brioche bun dressed with shredded lettuce and house-pickled cukes. In keeping with the theme of accessibility and inclusion, Provision’s bar program features a number of no- and low-proof cocktails that are

Top: Braised pork sandwich with Duroc pork, peppadew peppers, and a carrot celery cucumber slaw; Below: Chef Albert Gonzalez brings his pedigreed background to the world of pub grub.

Provision

FO O D AT MO S PH E RE S E RV I C E VA LU E

C O N TACT:

4200 W. Braker Lane, Ste. B, (512) 345-6999, provisionaustin.com

P HOTOS BY J E S S I CA AT T I E

1/29/20 11:10 AM

Top: Ginja Ninja; shrimp and grits; Below: crab puffs.

expertly composed and refreshing. In particular, I quite enjoyed the Ginga Ninja with its lemon-spiked ginger and carrot purée, warmed by the additions of allspice and cardamom, and the Watermelon Smash that includes a mildly tangy watermelon-mint shrub finished with a watermelon-flavored Sunup CBD elixir. However, a number of drinks were far too cloying and syrupy, like the Gin Press, a mixed berry shrub spiked with Botanist gin. Even with lemon, seltzer, and the inherent acid of the shrub, the drink was a monotonous one-note of sweetness. The savory menu suffered from the same type of disjointedness, with a dijonnaise tartar–dressed redfish roll that tasted great, but was difficult to chew through with grilled skin still attached to the star attraction. Also, crab puffs, which came sprinkled with habanero-cured bacon and a dollop of smoked jalapeño aioli, might have read like the best hush puppies I’ve ever eaten… yet they lacked any discernible crab. By far

though, the farro bowl proved the most disappointing. After a creamy, well-executed six-minute egg and tender braised beets, the entire dish fell apart, with undercooked farro, charred radicchio and Brussels sprouts that were exceedingly salty, and bland “kimchickpeas”—chickpeas that were supposedly augmented with Korean kimchi spices—that had all the kick of a flat tire. On my next visit two weeks later, much of the dinner menu had improved, with standouts starting to emerge from Gonzalez’s repertoire. Wild Mexican brown shrimp, plated over a bed of mascarpone-fortified grits, was delightfully decadent. Slices of lightly pickled Fresno peppers gave the dish just enough prickly heat to cut the richness of the cheese and shellfish, while a smattering of corn nuts provided great textural balance. This contrast of bright and rich was also at play in the braised pork sandwich. Tart-spicy peppadews and a fresh carrot, celery, and cucumber slaw kept slow-braised

Gonzalez offers “a little something extra under the hood” at Provision Duroc pork—naturally fatty and unctuous— from feeling like meat overkill. Some of these missteps can be expected from any new establishment, and it’s clear that Provision’s team is still wading through a number of execution issues. Still, with so much promise shown in dishes like those ethereal shrimp and grits, the concept is a welcome addition to a north side of town now enticing to gastrophiles. And sports fans, too, assuming that’s your thing. AM

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DI N ING T A S TE MAKE RS

DUCK DYNASTY

With a new carbonneutral initiative, chef Bryce Gilmore is taking his family-first reputation to a planetary level. BY JOLÈNE M. BOUCHON

Bryce Gilmore of Odd Duck fame.

“relationships.” Gilmore still buys pigs from Richardson Farms and other purveyors he met scouring the Barton Creek Farmers Market in those nascent years. Sour Duck’s weekly Wednesday farmers market provides no-fee opportunities for small farmers to sell their wares, and the kitchen purchases any perishables that go unsold. “It’s a goal of mine to see more young people farming. I want to help make it a viable career option,” he says. Employee security and well-being is another unique way in which Gilmore has bucked industry conventions. Cooks and servers are typically long-tenured, and “family” is a term that’s constantly bandied about. “Bryce takes care of his employees, at work and in life,” says Kevin Cannon, Barley Swine’s chef de cuisine, referring to Gilmore’s hands-on approach to training and development, ensuring that employees are constantly progressing in their careers. Mark David Buley, founding partner of Odd Duck and Sour Duck, agrees: “It’s about so much more than just the P&L.” In fact, such faith in Gilmore’s vision inspired Buley and Sam Hellman-Mass (a founding partner at Barley Swine, and now the owner of Suerte) to move from Aspen, Colorado, to help launch his first two brick-and-mortar restaurants.

BRYCE, COURTESY JODY HORTON; THE ODD DUCK ALMANAC, CATTYWAMPUS PRESS

eah, I don’t do well with labels,” says Bryce Gilmore, the chef-owner behind Odd Duck, Barley Swine, and Sour Duck Market. Coming from anyone else, this might sound like a freshman philosophy major trying way too hard to sound cuttingedge, but with Gilmore, it seems oddly appropriate. As exhibited at his three acclaimed area restaurants, the chef’s cuisine defies categorization: It’s not quite “modern American” and just borderline “new-wave Texan.” Even “farm-to-table”—the most common fallback descriptor for his food—falls short. The latter feels particularly inadequate since any chef-driven restaurant worth its fleur de sel flaunts some semblance of local, seasonal sourcing. From Odd Duck’s early iteration as a South Lamar trailer, which challenged food truck perceptions with fine dining–quality dishes like quail and grits, the foundation for every Gilmore concept has relied upon “developing relationships with local farmers and ranchers”—the imperative word being

Bird’s the Word

For his latest venture, the Odd Duck chef steps out of the kitchen. An annual cookbook with the heart of a zine, Gilmore’s newly introduced The Odd Duck Almanac delivers everything from recipes (like the one for his famous fried fish head) to snapshots in Texas foodways, and even a bit of astrological gastronomy. Launched in December, the publication from Gilmore, writer Veronica Meewes, and indie Austin publisher, Cattywampus Press, delivers a behind-the-scenes look at the food, culture, and people that keep his restaurants humming. Individual copies can be purchased online, or ordered in tiered subscriptions. oddduckalmanac.com

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“It’s something that I learned from my father [Jack Allen’s Kitchen chefowner, Jack Gilmore],” Gilmore says. “First and foremost is, take care of your people. They’re the ones sweating on the line and working with hundreds of guests. I want to make sure they feel like it’s worth it.” Most notably, Gilmore’s sustainable ethics and environmental stewardship—reflected in everything from aesthetics to operations—has separated him from the rest of the culinary diaspora. All dishware was bought at Goodwill, and reused materials are used for building furniture and decor. For example, Odd Duck’s ruddy tin-clad bar was repurposed from the old roof at Spoetzl Brewery in Shiner, Texas, and much of wood seen in the rustic planters out front comes from the former Hill Country home of Janis Joplin. The latest and most progressive initiative, though, was Gilmore’s decision to make Barley Swine one of only two Texas restaurants (the other being Emmer & Rye) to go 100 percent carbon-neutral. With guidance from Zero Foodprint, a nonprofit committed to fighting climate change, the restaurant is donating toward carbon offsets and making increasingly earth-friendly choices, such as growing produce onsite, collecting rainwater for its garden, and limiting the amount of beef offered on its menu (cattle farming is notoriously carbon intensive—accounting for 62 percent of agricultural emissions.) “We can’t always rely on our government to make the right decisions,” Gilmore says, “so we have to take it into our own hands and do what we can.” For Gilmore, everything comes back to nurturing the notion of home, whether “home” means his various restaurant projects, the farms that supply each intricate component on a communal plate, or the planet itself. Adopting that ethos is simple, according to Gilmore— just start with our hometown. “If people keep supporting local businesses, we will retain as much of what ‘Austin’ is as possible,” he says. “It just really comes down to caring, and things will change for the better.” AM

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EDUCATED LIFE a guide to Austin schools

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Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re pre-K or post-grad, STEM-savvy or arts-focused, Austin has an abundance of options when it comes to educational institutions. In this section we feature exceptional places of learning in the Austin area.

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AUSTIN WALDORF SCHOOL

8700 S. View Road Austin, TX 78737 (512) 288-5942 austinwaldorf.org

AUSTIN WALDORF SCHOOL Nestled on 27 acres in the beautiful Hill Country of Central Texas and celebrating 39 years of educational excellence, the Austin Waldorf School provides a unique education to students in kindergarten through 12th grade. The school is accredited through the Association of Waldorf Schools of North America, the Independent Schools Association of the Southwest and the National

HOLY FAMILY CATHOLIC SCHOOL

DIVINE SAVIOR ACADEMY

Council of Private School Accreditation.

Holy Family Catholic School sits on a beautiful campus in

Divine Savior Academy is opening a new campus in Santa

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more information.

ST. DOMINIC SAVIO CATHOLIC HIGH SCHOOL

THE AUSTIN WALDORF SCHOOL

St. Dominic Savio Catholic High School is a college

The Austin Waldorf School is nestled on 27 wooded acres

and instrumental music, handwork, woodwork,

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school serves 390 students K-12. Austin Waldorf provides

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dedicated to excellence and artistry in education, and many of the teachers have decades of professional experience in their fields. The parent body is stalwart and generous, and the community life is filled with student performances, festivals and

woodworking and fine arts. The school also offers competitive athletic teams.

a vibrant parent society.

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CHALLENGER SCHOOL

HYDE PARK SCHOOLS

Since 1963, Challenger School has helped children

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of physical, emotional, spiritual education of students,

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leading to a life that honors God. The school attempts

with enthusiasm as they make connections between

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their prior knowledge and new concepts. In order to

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facilitate setting crucial learning patterns, Challenger

sphere of its influence. Hyde Park seeks to develop the

accepts students as young as 2 years, 9 months. Yet in all

whole person with the knowledge and skills to embrace

grades, the school’s acclaimed, intellectually stimulating

a lifetime of personal fulfillment, Christian service, and

programs establish a foundation of achievement with

contribution to society. Our graduates are sought after

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by institutions of higher learning due to the excellent

Challenger K-8 students averaged well above the 90th

background the students received while attending Hyde

percentile. Come take a Tour!

Park.

ST. MICHAEL’S CATHOLIC ACADEMY

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF TEXAS

Now in its 36th year, St. Michael’s Catholic Academy,

International School of Texas is a non-profit,

a premier, independent, exclusively 9th-12th grade

independent private school serving the Austin/

learning environment, remains centered on the four

Lake Travis areas of Bee Cave, Lakeway, Westlake,

pillars of its mission: service, integrity, intellectual

and surrounding communities. IST Trailblazers are

curiosity, and courage. Service helps students develop

lifelong learners, global citizens, and future leaders.

a global world view and build personal community

IST is proud to be an IB World School, providing an

relationships. St. Michael’s supports the search for

international education, close to home.

courage through a culture and learning environment that encourages risk-taking. Students are encouraged to look for the virtue of integrity in their own lives by reflecting on personal attributes of honesty and wholeness. At St. Michael’s, students have myriad opportunities to explore and experience a broad range of courses and activities and become stakeholders in their own education.

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The

25 Trill Taqueria tacos with lamb shoulder, sweet potato, and more.

Grea

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Barbacoa, new-school al pastor, and, of course, everything with an egg on it. Here, the best from AustiN's renowned taxonomy of tacos.

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TACOS

IN AUSTIN BY TR EY GU TI ER R EZ A N D DA N GEN TILE

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CENTRAL TEXAS HAS ALWAYS BEEN BARBECUE COUNTRY. But, as much as we love some burnt ends and the snap of a good “hot guts” sausage, it’s not an everyday indulgence. The slow-moving lines, the heavy sides, and slabs of brisket are reserved for special occasions—preferably one where you can suffer the meat sweats in a state of repose. Tacos, on the other hand, are an Austinite’s bread-and-butter, their go-to bite, their manna from heaven. They’re our favorite way to do breakfast, as well as our ideal late-night snack. On the following pages, we celebrate Mexico’s grand culinary gift with our list of the food trailers, momand-pop shops, cutting-edge taquerias, and fusion innovators doling out the best in these tortillashrouded revelations. All hail the taco!

Asador Must-Try Taco: Mushroom en mole amarillo While chef Joe Becerra’s fine-dining background (La Condesa, Brae in Australia) brings sophistication to Asador’s rotating cast of meaty street taco standards, his vegetarian options excel thanks to the accentuating addition of heirloom Oaxacan black beans that are pounded into a velvety mash with habanero purée, aji amarillo, roasted garlic, and a splash of Negra Modelo. asadoratx.com Capital Taco Must-Try Taco: Nofaya (poblanos, onions, bacon, mozzarella, and avocado) At his red Airstream on a busy stretch of Ben White Boulevard, Jesus Vasquez translates a decade of experience at Hut’s Hamburgers (RIP) into a number of crowd-pleasing options. Alongside his daughter, Sujey, Vasquez dabbles in local

flavors like melt-in-your mouth brisket mingling with jalapeño and avocado, and chef specials such as The Longhorn, featuring grilled salmon crowned with tangy mango pico and a squiggle of chipotle mayo. capitaltacoaustin.com Cuantos Tacos Must-Try Taco: Lengua Seeking to replicate Mexico City’s street taco “golden standard,” Luis Robledo’s addictive beef cheek and carnitas tacos are confited in lard and cooked alongside one another in a convex comal or “choricera” that the chef acquired during a trip across the border. With tacos modestly portioned and priced ($2 each), you won’t feel guilty about bingeing on Cuantos’ unforgettable charro beans that are stewed to perfection with the day’s leftover carne. Dai Due Taqueria Must-Try Taco: Wild boar al pastor Before Dai Due opened its doors in 2014, wild game was something reserved for the deep freezer. But chef Jesse Griffiths made venison sausage and fried quail sandwiches an everyday part of the Austin culinary vernacular. His taqueria inside Fareground applies the same love of exotic Texas proteins to the taco genre, with items like house-made boar chorizo and an antelope picadillo that puts ground beef to shame. daiduetaqueria.com Discada Must-Try Taco: Discada Step up to the window at Discada, and your decision is reduced to a number: one, five, or eight. Because at this tiny trailer

on East Austin’s Rosewood Avenue, they serve only one type of taco: discada, made by “cowboy-wok cooking” slow-simmered beef, pork, and vegetables. The caramelized amalgam—topped with cilantro, onion, and chunks of pineapple—is one part Northern Mexico, one part Mexico City, and, now, blessedly, one part Austin. Go ahead, order eight. discadatx.com Eldorado Cafe Must-Try Taco: Crispy taco One taste of co-owner Joel Fried’s “Salsa X”—a lush emulsification of chile de arbol and chipotle peppers that’s presented in place of the rote red variety—and you know you’re in store for new, unexplored regions of planet Tex-Mex. Mashed potatoes (a nod to his long tenure in the Tacodeli chain) surface in enchiladas, and robust beef picadillo is stretched across all three meals: tossed with migas in the morning, and stuffed into fried taco shells at lunch and dinner. eldoradocafeatx.com El Primo Must-Try Taco: Chorizo, egg, and cheese Business was slow when Jose Luis Perez (aka “El Primo”) opened his taco trailer 14 years ago, but everything changed when he listened to a suggestion from his wife: Ditch dinner and focus on breakfast. Since then, the family-run spot has become an essential part of South First Street. A butcher’s son from Michoacan, Mexico, Perez proves he knows his way around meat, griddling chorizo, bacon, sausage, and ham breakfast tacos that are perennially regarded as some of the city’s finest. elprimoatx.com

The Ranchero Taco at Granny’s Tacos.

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The 25 Greatest Tacos in Austin

NIXTA, JESSICA ATTIE

The Vasquez family of Grannyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tacos.

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Wild boar al pastor from Dai Due Taqueria.

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El Taquito Must-Try Taco: Gringas with bistek For a town that thrives on live music, Austin has a troubling dearth of late-night taco options. But that’s where El Taquito shines brightest. Literally. Just look for the glowing green sign at its original Riverside location, which has been a beacon for hungry revelers since 1995. Dig into its signature Gringas layered with a bed of oozing cheese, a taco technique owner Eloy Saenz brought with him from his hometown of Matamoros. eltaquito.com Granny’s Tacos Must-Try Taco: Chilaquiles con mole Like his two daughters’ popular taqueria, Veracruz All Natural, Armando Vasquez’s humble East Side truck proves taco mastery runs in the family. Crafted alongside his wife, Maria, the purveyor’s homemade flour tortillas, nutty moles, and dynamite salsa roja (rich with garlic and arbol chiles) titillate all five senses—right down to the audible “crunch!” of the fried chicharrones on top of the Ranchero breakfast taco brimming with egg, avocado, and tortilla chips.

ELOTE, SARA MARIE D’EUGENIO

Kurry Takos Must-Try Taco: American Punjabi (paneer tikka masala, coconut rice, cilantro, and crema) Chef Ravi Chandra’s zeal for fusing the flavors of his native Bangalore with TexMex is most infectious when sampling his chili crema, an Indo-Mexican blend of arbor chiles, red chili powder, and Thai curry sauce, which bolsters dishes like the Garlic Gobi (fried cauliflower). Instead of traditional flatbread, opt to have it wrapped in the akki roti-corn tortilla combo, made from Indian rice flour kneaded with masa, toasted cumin, onion, and jalapeño. Las Trancas Must-Try Taco: Carnitas Even if you skip what taco journalist, Mando Rayo, calls “the best carnitas in town” (but seriously, why would you?), it’s impossible to order an unsatisfying combination of Las Trancas’ 10 carne-centric tacos, which feature such traditional cuts as crispy tripas (beef tripe) and buttery cabeza (beef cheek). Pro tip: Ask for their creamy, jalapeño-heavy “VIP” green salsa

CREAM OF THE CROP Cheesy, gooey, and overthe-top indulgent, elote has graduated from Mexican street vendors to taco shops everywhere. One of the best examples in town is at Discada, where chefs Anthony Pratto and Xose Velasco populate their menu with only two perfectly constructed items: beef-and-pork “cowboy-wok” tacos, and a side of elote. The tacos are a 35-hour investment, but the corn is easy enough to reproduce at home. And believe us, you’ll want to. INGREDIENTS (6 servings) 12 fresh ears of corn, shucked 4-5 epazote leaves 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 6 tablespoons Tajín seasoning 5 tablespoons Parmesan, grated 5 tablespoons panko bread crumbs 16 dashes Tapatío hot sauce 1/2 cup mayonnaise 3 tablespoons queso fresco (top to taste) 1/4 cup cilantro, chopped 1 lime, divided into quarters

STEP 1 Melt butter in a steamer or slow cooker. Using your hand or the back of a knife, bruise epazote until it releases its aroma. Place shucked corn and epazote in melted butter and stir to combine. Replace lid on steamer (or slow cooker) and cook on medium heat for an hour (or until corn is cooked through, but not too soft). STEP 2 Put cooked corn in a large mixing bowl and combine with Parmesan, panko bread crumbs, and Tajín. Next add the wet ingredients: Tapatío hot sauce and mayo. STEP 3 Divide corn into individual bowls and top with crumbled queso fresco. Garnish to taste with cilantro, lime, and additional Tajín.

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The 25 Greatest Tacos in Austin

THE DAILY GRIND

to balance sweeter meats like lengua with a touch of heat. Mellizoz Must-Try Taco: The Bowman (roasted chicken, sautéed pico, fresh spinach, salsa fresca) Perhaps the most fitting name for a restaurant concept, Mellizoz (Spanish for fraternal twin) was originally opened by chef John Gallindo, then later turned over to his sister, Jessica. After a decade, the latter sibling has turned it into food truck royalty with indulgent, interior-Mexican eats like the tempura-fried avocado taco, and the La Pachuca with braised beef, egg, and queso. mellizoztacos.com

Nixta Taqueria Must-Try Taco: Duck carnitas If the name doesn’t tip you off to chef/ co-owner Edgar Rico’s corn infatuation, the menu and murals at Nixta Taqueria certainly will. The latter includes dining room walls painted with sprouting ears in a Warhol-like spectrum of colors. While the former consists of artfully prepared tacos that showcase Rico’s raison d’etre: freshly nixtamalized tortillas that heighten ingredients like sweet potato and duck confit. nixtataqueria.com Papalote Must-Try Taco: Aguacate con queso (fried avocado, black beans, cabbage, queso fresco) Owner Sergio Varela designed his menu as an ode to his mother’s Southern Mexico recipes, and you can tell that he treasured each and every one. Easily the city’s most extensive selection, boasting a diverse array of ingredients (think plantains, epazote, and several types of mole),

BY DAN GENTILE

FIZZ ED

In Texas, tacos might occasionally flirt with Modelo or Mexican Coke, but those are mere dalliances compared to its one true potable partner: Big Red. Conceived in Waco in 1937, the bubble gum–flavored soda has become a staple of Hispanic households, especially on weekends when enjoying barbacoa (slow-roasted cow’s head). Writer Shea Serrano of The Ringer, one of the sweet-and-savory union’s biggest advocates, says it’s “[like] a particular kind of wine with a particular kind of entree: the two tastes not only pair perfectly with one another, they also accentuate the best parts of each.”

ixtamalization is just a scary word that sounds hard to say, and is easy to do,” says Suerte chef Fermín Núñez. “That is, as long as you follow some simple rules.” It doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue, but “nixtamalization” is a word that’s becoming common parlance to the taste buds of tacoloving Austinites. The traditional Mexican process of making masa has become a signature element of restaurants like Suerte, Nixta Taqueria, and El Naranjo, where they spend as much time focusing on the tortillas as the ingredients that go inside them. Everything starts with the corn. At Suerte, that means dried red corn kernels from Richardson Farms and white corn from Barton Springs Mill, which are simmered in water and calcium hydroxide, then soaked between eight and 12 hours, releasing niacin and other key nutrients. Softened and easier to mill, it’s then ground into masa dough that is shaped, pressed, and cooked to order on a hot comal. Suerte produces roughly 3,000 tortillas daily, all of which become vessels for dishes like their savory suadero tacos and chamorrosmoked beef shank taquitos. At Nixta Taqueria on the East Side, a molino grinder imported from Oaxaca sits at the front of the restaurant, inviting guests to take a front row seat to the process. “The sharing of knowledge is one of the most important things in our restaurant. We have an open kitchen that people can look right into it,” says co-owner, Sara Mardanbigi. “At the end of the day, the food just tastes better when you’re a little more knowledgeable about it.” Utilizing yellow, red, and green corn from Barton Springs Mill, along with a blue variety grown in Oaxaca, Nixta’s tortillas come out thicker than normal, making stronger canvases for new Austin classics like their beet “tartare” tostada. The food combines chef

BIG RED, SARA MARIE D’EUGENIO

Mi Tradicion Bakery Must-Try Taco: Al pastor The Mexican bakery formerly known as Chuy’s Panaderia (before legal action from that Chuy’s in 2016) has been one of Austin’s premier purveyors of pan dulces since 2009. You can bet on regulars leaving with bags of fluffy house-made tortillas and custard-filled cones called cuernos, but they really come for the tacos. How it remains one of Austin’s best-kept secrets is a mystery, with crackly, trompostyle al pastor served with long strips of pineapple. mitradicionbakery.com

A trio of local chefs are leading the charge in Austin’s growing obsession with an important Mexican tradition.

–T. GUTIER R EZ

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Edgar Ulysses Rico’s training at Mexico City institution, Pujol, with what he describes as “grandma-style” techniques. But no matter the filling, Rico says the tortilla provides the crucial infrastructure from which a taco succeeds or fails. “Our entire restaurant revolves around the taco, so everything we do is based around the quality of our masa,” Rico says. Now located on South Lamar, El Naranjo not only helped to introduce Austin to Oaxacan cuisine when chef Iliana de la Vega opened her original Rainey Street trailer in 2010—it also served as the city’s nixtamalization trailblazer. “Living in Oaxaca, I was aware of the importance of the corn, but so many good tortillas were available everywhere, you didn’t need to learn it,” says de la Vega. That changed when she moved to Texas in 2007 to become an instructor at the Culinary Institute of America in San Antonio. “When I came to the States I realized, I’m sorry to say, the tortillas were horrible. On my first day at the CIA, I said we need to have a molino and teach people about this.” In Oaxacan cuisine, mole is the star attraction. But at El Naranjo, de la Vega’s tortillas share that celebrated spotlight. “People always want more tortillas,” she says. “And that’s very rewarding for us.” Although nixtamalization has become the buzzword of the moment, it’s a traditional technique that dates back to prehistoric Mesoamerica. Whether at Nixta, Suerte, or El Naranjo, the chefs see the dining public’s increasing fascination around the process as an inevitable next step in the continued dissemination of Mexican cuisine. “If you go to a high-quality Italian restaurant, you expect them to make their own pasta. You don’t expect them to use dried pasta,” Núñez says. “That’s happening for Mexican food. Chefs are interested in understanding what Mexican food can be.” He also equates the slow adoption of the process to a lack of education. There are countless books on bread baking, but as little as three years ago, the chef could find nothing on nixtamalization. Repeatedly coming up short in his research for Suerte, the chef had to travel to Mexico to learn the techniques. Now a veteran sage on the subject, de la Vega can sound dismissive as she considers

masa in terms of foodie trends. For her, it’s simply an integral building block in the canon of Mexican gastronomy. But for the team at Nixta Taqueria—like Rico, whose family emigrated from Mexico in the ’80s—the process is about getting back to their roots and carrying on a waning tradition. “It was on the decline, but like myself, a lot of young first-generation Mexican Americans are just trying to make sure it doesn’t die,” he says.

From left: Edgar Rico of Nixta Taqueria, Iliana de la Vega of El Naranjo, and Fermín Núñez of Suerte.

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Papalote is one of Austin’s few taco joints where ordering proves time-consuming— what with all those tasty decisions to consider. yumpapalote.com Polvos Must-Try Taco: Monterrey chicken fajita Feeling indecisive? Morelia, Mexico, native Oscar “Polvo” Linares’ original South First location offers a number of unique à la carte options to mix-andmatch with the restaurant’s storied salsa bar. Throw some pickled carrots and peppers onto a Monterrey and mushroom, or pair the tomatillo and guajillo salsa’s piquant kick with the steak fajita’s fragrant grilled onions. polvosaustin.com Pueblo Viejo Must-Try Taco: Pueblo Viejo-style At any of Pueblo Viejo’s three locations, the salsa selection alone (ranging from mild pico to a sweat-inducing orange habanero and ghost pepper sauce) is enough to draw perpetually large crowds. Depending on your Scoville topping tolerance, each has its merits augmenting breakfast combinations like its “Taco Azteca” with ham, eggs, jalapeño, and black beans, or its signature “Pueblo Viejo Style” come dinnertime. With sizzling steak, avocado, and gooey jack cheese, it’s essentially the best fajita you’ve never had. puebloviejoaustin.com Tacos + Coffee Must-Try Taco: Aaron Franklin’s daily breakfast (melted cheese, potatoes, brisket, guacamole, and salsa de arbol) Like any endeavor involving Texas’ most lauded pitmaster, the news of Aaron Franklin’s foray back into the world of teal food trailers roused plenty of headlines. But the hype, as always, feels justified with tacos flaunting juicy breakfast sausage inspired by the Joe’s Bakery version, and a machacado riff that involves tallowsoaked lean brisket that’s crisped up on the plancha. franklinbbq.com Taqueria 7 Estrellas Must-Try Taco: Carne asada Regulars recommend arriving at the Cabrera family’s cash-only eatery after midnight, when carefree bar-hoppers, chili candy vendors, and live Norteño

Birdie Sanders taco from Vegan Nom.

Corn Stars Since starting taqueria review blog, “Taco Journalism,” in 2006, writers Armando Rayo and Jarod Neece have become scholars on the subject of everything that can be folded into a tortilla. Two bestselling books and a PBS docuseries later, the duo is onto their latest project, a televised cross-country exploration of the nation’s best tacos on El Rey Network’s United Tacos of America. -T. GUTIERREZ Are there certain factors you consider when reviewing a taqueria? NEECE: The bean and cheese taco. That tells you a lot about a spot: Are their tortillas fresh? Are they afraid to put flavor in their beans? RAYO: The place’s overall vibe. If Sábado Gigante is blaring on TV and the agua frescas are flowing, that’s a good sign. What sets Austin’s taco culture apart from the rest? RAYO: Obviously the migas, but Austin also does “Aus-Mex”—healthier versions of Tex-Mex with lots of avocados and brown rice.

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The 25 Greatest Tacos in Austin

music provide a family cookout–style atmosphere. Order a taco combo plate complete with grilled cebollitas (spring onions) and cold cucumber slices for cleansing your palate between morsels of asada and garlic-absorbed lengua. Taqueria Morales Must-Try Taco: Alambre Not everyone is blessed with an abuela who knows her way around a tortilla press. Thankfully, South Austinites have Paola Morales. Alongside her staff of immediate family members, the former Hula Hut cook pounds out masa which, when tossed with just the right amount of flour, creates tortillas structurally sound enough to shelter heaping portions of cheesy migas and meaty suadero. Trill Taqueria Must-Try Taco: Sweet potato taco An encyclopedic knowledge of local farmers, a knack for fermentation, and a bullish insistence on making everything from scratch is something chef Nick Belloni carries over from his days at Eden East. Case in point: a mesquite charred– carrot taco that is cooked in a house-made

guajillo and ancho salsa, then topped with a soft-boiled farm egg sourced from Kingsbury, Texas. Valentina’s Tex Mex BBQ Must-Try Taco: The Real Deal Holyfield (fried egg, refried beans, bacon, potatoes, brisket) When Miguel Vidal first opened his barbecue trailer outside of Star Bar in 2013, he broke the mold of the classic Central Texas style by combining smoked meats with the Mexican flavors of his San Antonio childhood. That rogue approach extended to breakfast, where he dared ask: “Why not peppery-barked brisket and pulled pork with your eggs?” Now, bacon has never seemed so boring. valentinas texmexbbq.com The Vegan Nom Must-Try Taco: Birdie Sanders (soy curl “buffalo chicken,” pepper jack, onion, cabbage, crema, chipotle, and avocado) When it comes to “vegan-izing” the East Side tacos of his youth, chef Christopher Rios pays particular attention to all the plant-based proteins at his disposal. For instance, frying up tofu with Oregongrown soy curls to achieve the texture of

NEECE: We have good taco diversity. You’ll find everything from high-end spots to trailers where you can still get tacos for a dollar.

tender al pastor, or griddling up a seitan and quinoa “chorizo” that rivals the paprika-heavy flavor profile of the original. thevegannom.com Vaquero Taquero Must-Try Taco: Al pastor It took a great deal of culinary skill to raise Miguel and Daniel Cobos’ taco operation from a retooled paleta pushcart to their central Austin brick-and-mortar. It takes, however, just one bite of the siblings’ al pastor—freshly sliced and prepped on the plancha, à la Mexican hibachi chefs—to see why their version has proven the city’s best. vaquerotaquero.com Veracruz All Natural Must-Try Taco: Migas Originales The little taco trailer that could, Veracruz has grown from a neighborhood secret to an Austin institution with five locations. The migas taco might garner most of its gushing press, but the true sleeper favorite fills a niche in Austin’s most underrepresented style: the fish taco, here with mango pico, avocado, and chipotle mayo salsa over a blackened tilapia filet. veracruzallnatural.com AM

From left: Armando Rayo and Jarod Neece.

COURTESY UNITED TACOS OF AMERICA

What was the most surprising thing that your nationwide tour taught you? RAYO: That there’s always someone who’s never tried a real taco. They’ve probably had Taco Bell, but they’ve never had a street taco. Plenty of people still need to learn correct taco-eating form. NEECE: Yes, tilt the taco, not your head. What was the greatest challenge in taking your taco journalism national? RAYO: I’m still upset that we couldn’t include the United Tacos Pledge of Allegiance we wrote. Taco Pledge of Allegiance? RAYO: “I pledge allegiance to the taco stands of the United Tacos of America. And to the taquerias and abuelas of this great land. One nation, under tortillas. With limones and salsas for all.” AU ST INM O NT H LY.C OM / M AR C H 2 0 2 0

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REEL THE

BY CHRIS HUGHES

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Before Slacker came to define a generation, Richard Linklater was forging the infrastructure to turn his adopted hometown into a capital of cinema appreciation. Thirty-five years later, his film society is recognized as an unlikely success story, and a bastion of Austinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s artistic stature around the globe.

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Anyone who walked into The Centre Pompidou in Paris last November was greeted by a soaring two-story moon tower reaching toward the ceiling. Less imposing than the 17 historic monoliths that still exist in Austin today (the real ones are 165 feet tall), it nonetheless made an impression inside the steeland-glass confines of a contemporary art museum. But that nod to Richard Linklater’s Dazed and Confused was just one striking aspect of a six-week exhibition and retrospective on the local writer-director. Turn right into a room entitled “Spirit of a Time/Its Nightmares,” and you could explore rotoscoped photograms from A Scanner Darkly and preparatory documents—including a statement of unpaid bills—from Slacker. Or head into the “Growing Up/Ageing” wing to experience the passage of time through video excerpts taken from Boyhood’s unprecedented 12-year shoot. Sequestered on the other side of the mock moon tower was a different type of tribute, but one that Linklater says he’s equally (if not more) proud of: a detailed look at the Austin Film Society’s 35-year existence. Long-time collaborator Ethan Hawke attended the retrospective debut and lingered in front of the “Countdown” mural—a collage of 16mm stills that played during the film society’s early days—as well as a wall of flyers that Linklater would paste around The Drag to entice cinephiles into screenings of Barbara Hammer and Kenneth Anger films.

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THE REEL Those two sides of the director’s career, the passionate curator and the vanguard of Texas independent film, might seem like disparate parts of a complex personality. But, in truth, they’re symbiotic tracks that, over time, have benefited one another. Prior to making Slacker in 1989, the Houston native was a self-professed “film freak” who’d moved to Austin, in part, to take advantage of the movie-mad culture that had made CinemaTexas a success. UT’s on-campus film initiative was screening a double-bill of movies four times a week, supplementing the countless other screenings available at the Varsity, the Texas, and the Dobie Theater. But Linklater was on a VHS and Super 8 diet that exceeded 600 titles a year. Not satiated by the programming available around town, and thwarted by the limitations of the home video market, he launched a film society in 1985 as a means of both promoting and subsidizing his own movie obsession. “I remember talking to the people who worked in those UT programs, and they told me I could just rent films from the distributors for $100 to $150,” he recounts. “I did the quick math and thought: If I could just sucker 50-75 people into giving us two bucks each, hell, we could show anything.” After putting together an experimental film series with his roommate, Lee Daniel, (who would go on to become his cinematographer on Dazed and Confused, the Before trilogy, and many others) that they dubbed “Sexuality and Blasphemy in the Avant-Garde,” he was able to secure a screening space inside the Dobie Theater. The venue’s only stipulation was that they provide a large enough audience to justify concession sales—no small task when top billing went to Luis Buñuel and Salvadore Dalí’s silent surrealist short, Un Chien Andalou. “This template of making flyers and convincing the public to come see a movie, applying for nonprofit status and being an unpaid full-time administrator—I really learned how to produce a movie by doing all that,” Linklater says. “What we started at the Film Society, I mimicked for my own films. When I showed Slacker at the

COURTESY CENTRE POMPIDOU, PHOTOS HERVÉ VERONESE

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The Centre Pompidou in Paris honored Richard Linklater by constructing a mock moon tower.

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Dobie in 1990, I sold out the first 25 shows. There were lines around the block. But that’s because I’d learned how to hustle.” For the first five years of its existence, Linklater performed most of the heavy lifting at the collective they’d christened the Austin Film Society—a name they determined was more inviting to funding agencies. Along the way, he maxed out credit cards and depleted what little money he’d saved from his time as an offshore oil worker in the Gulf of Mexico to support programming like a 10-part Fassbinder series at Laguna Gloria. He began working night shifts as a hotel valet and bellhop to assist with rent on a space above the old Captain Quackenbush’s Intergalactic Dessert Company and Espresso Bar on The Drag, which he converted into an office/theater. In his off hours, he could be found ripping out carpet, sanding floors, and building a projection booth, all with the aim of exposing more cinema enthusiasts to the works of Jon Jost and JeanLuc Godard. Most importantly, his sweat equity helped build a community of “oddballs and film freaks” who volunteered their time at every director’s Q&A and found footage festival—selfless enthusiasts like D. Montgomery who would do anything to further an organization that was helping to shape Austin’s bohemian underpinnings. That dedication and altruism proved timely as the success of Slacker was pulling Linklater further away to focus on his own filmmaking. Admittedly “frayed,” and with Austin becoming more expensive, the AFS was being put in a precarious position, both financially and leadership-wise. Fortunately, a solution would present itself in Linklater’s rising star and the network of influential friends that had sprung from it. Namely, his connection with Quentin Tarantino and one auspicious decision to premiere Pulp Fiction in Austin.

The Pompidou’s “Countdown” mural in the AFS wing of the retrospective.

t some point, you either have to go big and official, or just go away,” Linklater says in his languid Texas drawl, something that comes across as both self-effacing and introspective in its stoner-by-way-of-the-Gulf cadence. Sitting in the offices of his production company, Detour Filmproduction, located on the Mueller-adjacent Austin Studios lot, Linklater basks in the brief interlude from the chaos that sur-

LINKLATER’S SWEAT EQUITY HELPED BUILD A COMMUNITY OF “ODDBALLS AND FILM FREAKS”—SELFLESS ENTHUSIASTS WHO WOULD DO ANYTHING TO FURTHER AN ORGANIZATION THAT WAS HELPING TO SHAPE AUSTIN’S BOHEMIAN UNDERPINNINGS.

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rounds him. It’s early December, and the director, having just returned from Paris and the Pompidou’s commendations, is at the behest of employees from AFS and Detour. There are budget meetings and planning meetings and correspondences to acknowledge, but Linklater is unperturbed—an aftereffect from the type of adaptability necessary for a career in independent film. Kicked back in a pair of New Balance sneakers, his permanently disheveled hair sticking up in wispy stalks, he reminisces about the week he grappled with charging patrons $10 (as opposed to the usual $2) for the Texas premiere of Pulp Fiction. Friends from their time on the film festival circuit, and mere months after his Palme d’Or win at Cannes, Tarantino had graciously agreed to screen the movie at UT’s Hogg Auditorium in order to raise money for AFS. “Yeah, I agonized over whether or not we could charge $10 a ticket,” Linklater

COURTESY CENTRE POMPIDOU, PHOTOS HERVÉ VERONESE

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says, punctuating each reflection with a nasally “Yeaaaahhh,” very much like the exaggerated “Woooww” Owen Wilson has become famous for. “Of course, it sold out immediately and I kicked myself for not charging double. It was just a big change, because for the longest time, everyone I knew in Austin had no money. That’s what we all had in common.” Tarantino’s screening not only proved Hollywood’s biggest directors were finally taking notice of Austin’s burgeoning film scene: it also helped secure the seed money for Linklater’s ultimate goal. According to John Pierson, UT film professor and author of Spike, Mike, Slackers, & Dykes: A Guided Tour Across a Decade of American Independent Cinema, that ambition included funding an extensive grant program for developing and lending artistic legitimacy to homegrown talent. To start, Linklater hired his first AFS employees, Jerry Johnson and Elizabeth Peters, two UT grad students whom he paid $100 a month to shoulder much of the programming and managerial burden. Next, he launched the Texas Filmmakers’ Production Fund, which was modeled after the type of charitable program administered by the National Endowment for the Arts. As little as 15 years ago, Texas’ statewide funding for the arts hovered near the bottom of the country, even trailing the U.S. territory of Guam (it’s projected to rank 34th out of 50 states in 2020). But Linklater wanted to change all that by

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Linklater on the set of Dazed and Confused in 1992.

taking government grant money, philanthropist dollars—which still makes up a third of all money AFS takes in—and any profits yielded from movie screenings (like the Pulp Fiction windfall), and pour it back into the local filmmaking community. “Although the Film Society has grown exponentially over the last 35 years, its goal has remained the same: spreading film culture to audiences and helping emerging filmmakers realize their vision,” says AFS CEO, Rebecca Campbell. “Rick [Linklater] has always had that as his motivation, and that’s served as our north star.” When it was rolled out in 1996, the Texas Filmmakers’ Production Fund (renamed the AFS Grant in 2013) awarded $30,000 in cash grants to up-and-coming filmmakers. The following year, they upped that number to $50,000, which was dispersed among 20-plus projects. Nowadays, that annual amount tops the six-figure mark, with the latest round of grants helping the organization surpass the $2 million milestone in its 24 years of endowment. Past recipients have now included the likes of Kat Candler (Queen Sugar on the O Network), Patrick Bresnan and Ivete Lucas (Skip Day), and David Lowery (A Ghost Story), all of whom received support for their early short works—something that proved a springboard to their eventual breakout feature film success. Annie Silverstein is another filmmaker who says she’s been “nurtured” by AFS from the very beginning of her career. For her first film, a documentary called March Point, she received a travel grant that allowed her to attend the prestigious Silverdocs film festival (now called the AFI Docs) in Silver Springs, Maryland. Six years later, the Film Society not only gave Silverstein grant money, but invaluable personal support, as Campbell joined her in Cannes to celebrate the director’s Cinéfondation jury prize win for her 2014 narrative short, Skunk. “I was editing that film until three days before the competition,” Silverstein says. “I didn’t have time to go shopping, and I didn’t really have a lot of money, so [AFS board president] Jane Schweppe loaned

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film. “The Artist Intensive is a wonderful gift,” Silverstein says. “It’s this beautiful ranch where you can be in nature, to focus on your story away from your everyday problems, like paying bills. But really, it’s just one more way AFS has supported artists like myself. I go to them for everything, even when it’s something as simple as a question on how to put together a gathering or get more exposure for a film. It’s been this ongoing relationship that’s been there from the start.”

me a dress and shoes to wear on the red carpet. I’ve had people at AFS play nanny to my 2-year-old daughter, making it possible for me to direct. On every level, AFS has taken care of me.” Besides money, patronage, and the occasional outfit, AFS also started a multi-day retreat called the Artist Intensive in 2013, which provides filmmakers vital feedback and resources prior to production. Held at a discreet location in Bastrop, filmmakers are paired with a mentor and afforded actors to workshop scenes. By reading the filmmakers’ scripts aloud, and giving constructive criticism, experts like Linklater and Azazel Jacobs (Terri)—Silverstein’s mentor when she attended in 2015 for her latest film, Bull—can help them fine-tune scripts and avoid costly errors that might otherwise sabotage an independent

Linklater and AFS CEO, Rebecca Campbell.

“ALTHOUGH THE FILM SOCIETY HAS GROWN EXPONENTIALLY OVER THE LAST 35 YEARS, ITS GOAL HAS REMAINED THE SAME: SPREADING FILM CULTURE TO AUDIENCES AND HELPING EMERGING FILMMAKERS REALIZE THEIR VISION.” —AFS CEO, REBECCA CAMPBELL

COURTESY GARY MILLER

ebecca Campbell remembers driving up to the gates of Austin Studios throughout the summer of 2005, pausing in anticipation, elated to see what else Mike Judge and his team had created on 20 acres of tarmac. Walking around the property, she would revel in Idiocracy’s Costco of the future, and immerse herself in its debased version of the White House, adorned as it was with Brawndo advertisements, a tire swing, and an above-ground pool. With five hangars’ worth of studio space, two production office buildings, and two T-hangars repurposed into areas for set dressings and props, there was finally a centralized location, outfitted with the necessary accommodations and real estate, to entice every type of film production. Now, marquee filmmakers like Judge, the Coen brothers, and Spike Lee were taking advantage of everything Austin had to offer. Based on the grounds of the former Robert Mueller Municipal Airport, Austin Studios has proven one of AFS’ most significant achievements. Officially opened in November 2000, it has drawn more than 625 productions to the region, generating more than 8,000 jobs and $2.1 billion in economic impact. Beyond the financial ramifications for the city, though, the 51st Street studios have spurred progress within the local industry and generated a logistical hub for a film scene historically dispersed across a vast geographical area. In the years since, two other large studios (New Republic Studios and ATX Studios) have opened in the wake of Austin Studios’ groundbreaking accomplishments.

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Yet none of this would have happened without Linklater’s foresight and a city council that was willing to gamble on the arts. In particular, then-mayor, Kirk Watson, opted to sacrifice lucrative commercial property and entrust a small nonprofit to become a beacon for Central Texas filmmaking. “People ask me all the time: ‘I live in so-and-so city and I want to build a film culture. How do I do it?’” Linklater says. “Well, good luck, because you have to live in a town like Austin where you can actually go talk to the mayor.” In return for a nominal leasing fee, AFS has overseen a concept that should have cost them millions. Like all of its endeavors, though, it’s given back far more in return. What function as soundstages and editing bays during the day, are often used for screenings, fundraisers, and other events benefiting the community at night. This includes Austin Studios acting as the home base for The Texas Film Hall of Fame, which celebrates the state’s greatest films and filmmakers. Founded in 2001 by Evan Smith (co-founder of The Texas Tribune) and Louis Black (co-founder of The Austin Chronicle), its annual spring awards gala often brings in hundreds of thousands of dollars, much of which goes toward the AFS Grant. The other major cog driving the expanding AFS empire, and its overarching mission of spreading the gospel of film culture, is the AFS Cinema. Opened in 2017 in the former Marchesa in Lincoln Village, the two-screen arthouse cinema has ended the foundation’s itinerant existence (it had a long-time part-

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Filmmakers Carina Hinojosa and Ryan Darbonne (both standing) taking part in the AFS’ Artist Intensive program. Their mentor (seated, holding a script), director Jeremy Saulnier (Green Room), coaches them through a scene.

nership with Alamo Drafthouse Cinema, the Paramount Theatre, and others), and allowed AFS to show first-run films that might not otherwise get released in Austin. Played in conjunction with the thematic film series it’s built its reputation on, the theater regularly exposes filmgoers to under-the-radar treasures like 63 Up, the latest installment in Michael Apted’s award-winning documentary series. Watching AFS’ annual Children of Abraham/Ibrahim series (an itinerary of films from the Middle East) in a palatial 256-seat-theater, it’s difficult to correlate the experience to its grassroots beginnings: Linklater and Lee Daniel plastering light poles on The Drag, “like a punk band with flyers,” urging students and other self-professed oddballs to attend a midnight billing of experimental films from Bruce Baillie. It was a movement rooted in conviction, blind faith, and inimitable passion—one that initiated a spark. In his trademark way of humbly deflecting praise, Linklater credits the city for fanning that glowing spark into a wildfire of support (“You put something out there publicly in a cool town like Austin, and it’s bound to take off”), but that fervor and progress doesn’t happen without some instigating force. Louis Black served on the AFS’ first board of directors—a “board” in the loosest sense of the term—a necessity when Linklater began applying for grants to help with film rental costs. They became fast friends and frequent collaborators, with Black making a cameo in Slacker, a film he candidly says he “didn’t think would be any kind of serious movie.” Then he saw the final cut and realized his buddy Rick was a true auteur. It was the type of talent that refused to be bottled up in a quirky college town in Texas. But like so much of his career, Linklater never succumbed to the usual Hollywood blueprint. “Rick not taking off after Slacker can’t be underestimated,” Black says. “He really dug in his heels and dedicated himself to the community. He encouraged so many towns with AFS and nurtured a whole new generation of filmmakers. That one decision; it changed Austin forever.” AM

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“Stevie Ray made the guitar speak. It was an outlet for everything his heart held; his inspirations either came from way up high, or from deep, deep down. There’s never really been a guitarist— blues or otherwise—who quite captured the magic that he possessed. He was Austin’s ‘Pride and Joy,’ and remains so.” —Terry Lickona, ACL executive producer

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N From Stevie Ray Vaughan in 1989 to Kendrick Lamar in 2015, the principal people behind Austin City Limits highlight the performances that helped define 45 memorable seasons on air. By David Leffler Photography by Scott Newton

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Since 1974, Austin City Limits has served as the city’s cultural mecca and introduced millions of Americans to groundbreaking artists that transcend both genre and generation. At the center of the revolutionary concert series are Terry Lickona and Scott Newton, the show’s executive producer and official photographer, respectively. Together, the two have masterfully shaped the production into the crown jewel of the town’s legendary music scene—a feat that, admittedly, neither expected when they joined forces four decades ago. To commemorate the completion of its 45th season (and whet readers’ appetites for the much-anticipated 46th one airing this fall), Newton and Lickona worked closely to identify the most compelling images from all of the historic concerts ACL has produced over the years, while sprinkling in a collection of insights, anecdotes, and unforgettable behind-the-scenes stories.

June Carter & Johnny Cash, 1987 “Johnny was on his best behavior that day—it was yes sir, and yes ma’am. June must’ve sat him down and given him a talking to [laughs]. But his performance was marvelous; one of the best we’ve ever had on our stage. His every move was iconic, heavy. The gravity of his presence was palpable.” —Scott Newton “When he walked into the studio for rehearsal that afternoon, Johnny literally went around to each and every person to introduce himself. He was beyond gracious and modest in his approach—that’s who he was. When he took the stage, the audience was completely beside themselves, in complete awe—they were lucky to be there, and they knew it.” —Terry Lickona

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“There was a certain intensity about Rosalía’s performance. Her sound is this explosive, entrancing Latin music with a Flamenco twist, but it also brings in elements of hip hop and electronic beats. That sound—paired with her powerful presence, undeniable charisma, and awe-striking dancing—made for a mesmerizing experience.” —T.L.

ROSALÍA, 2019

Ego cae fica res maximu Catil vid nossed hum su

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LYLE LOVETT, 1987

“If you’re talking Texas, you’ve got a spectrum: on one side, you’ve got Yahoo, yeah buddy, kick your ass motherf***er, and all the way on the other side is Lyle Lovett. He’s tongue-in-cheek, funny as f*** with a real low-key delivery. People just love that man.” —S.N.

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DOLLY PARTON, 2000 “This is an illustration of creation. Dolly is showing us how it’s done: She’s taking it all in through the ether—those fingernails are actually spiritual antenna—and letting everyone share. I don’t know how I could’ve captured that moment better.” —S.N.

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BILLIE EILISH, 2019 “Billie can do whatever she wants, both on the stage and off of it. She’s that talented, that fluid and in control—which is especially astonishing considering she’s just 18 years old. At the end of the show, she reached into the crowd and started grabbing ahold of as many people’s hands as she could. Everyone came together in one big, beautiful mass of humanity. It was unforgettable.” —T.L.

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NEIL YOUNG, 1985

“He was pretty much high the whole time—a typical day in the life of Neil Young [laughs]. After trying to get him to do the show for years, we finally got Neil to come by while he was hanging out at Willie Nelson’s nearby ranch. We were very, very lucky to get him onstage. Sometimes, that’s what it takes to make these things happen.” —T.L.

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Leonard Cohen, 1988

“When Leonard sang ‘Hallelujah,’ that was a moment, but his presence was just as powerful between songs. This shot is just about as good as I can do; he’s probably my favorite subject to have ever photographed.” —S.N.

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KENDRICK LAMAR, 2015

“Leonard and his band arrived at our studio still dressed in the same stage clothes from a show they’d played in LA the night before. When I asked if there was anything we could get for them, he looked down for a minute, and with a smile, said: ‘A bottle of tequila would be nice.’ By the time their rehearsal was over, the band had polished the entire thing off.” —T.L.

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“Kendrick’s performance was a game-changer for us. We’d never really featured a hip hop artist of his stature before, and he was at the top of his game. To call that show groundbreaking would be an understatement.” —T.L. “Kendrick Lamar is a little bitty guy, but the immensity of his substance was astounding. He was almost levitating off the stage; the crowd was going berserk.” —S.N.

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JANELLE MONÁE, 2018 “Janelle Monáe’s unlike any artist we’ve hosted. Her angelic voice, her intricate choreography, her dazzling wardrobes (she must have changed four times]—it was all absolutely regal. That night’s production was a sensory overload in the best way possible.” —T.L.

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Ray Charles, 1979 “The ancient Greeks believed that people didn’t really create; they just had access to the divine, the gods. Some fortunate few people (like Ray) have that unique bond. I mean, just look at those legs. As a photographer, you’re constantly searching for moments like this. He’s all reared back, he’s in the ultimate form that he can attain as a spirit wearing a body. He’s doing that thing that he does best. When I captured this, the hair on the back of my neck stood up and an emotional flush rolled through me. I knew I had it.” —S.N.

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“To say Lauryn Hill is a hands-on kind of artist is a massive understatement. Nothing gets by her. As a band leader, she’s very hard on her musicians, dancers, and singers—her rehearsal was intense—but for good reason: She’s an absolute star. Lauryn also has a reputation for living in her own time zone, so to speak. Our taping with her that night started two hours late—a first for us. But when all was said and done, her show was a truly amazing performance. Her voice, her power, it was all on display.” —T.L.

WILLIE NELSON & THE FAMILY BAND, 2018

LAURYN HILL, 2015

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“I’ve come to see Willie as something larger than a human being; as someone with a real connection with the mystic side of things, who has access to the divine. He’s a holy man, one that Texans worship innately. Austin City Limits wouldn’t be around without him.” —S.N.

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Top Pediatrics CHILD AND ADOLESCENT PSYCHIATRY John Abraham Collaborative Care 5910 Courtyard Dr, Ste 220 Austin, TX 78731 (512) 382-6359

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CHILD NEUROLOGY

Annabel Pino Cramer

Ryan A. Boeck

1004 Terrell Hill Drive Austin, TX 78704

Child Neurology Consultants Of Austin 6811 Austin Center Blvd., Suite 400 Austin, TX 78731 (512) 494-4000

Mohammad Amjad Khan Austin Mind and Behavioral Health 11673 Jollyville Road, Suite 201 Austin, TX 78759 (512) 579-0304

Stacy Leon Stacy Leon MD Psychiatrist 2630 Exposition Blvd, Suite 116 Austin, TX 78703 (512) 474-2488

Vaughn L. Mankey Dr. Vaughn L. Mankey 1301 S. Capital of Texas Highway Building C, Suite 100 West Lake Hills, TX 78746 (512) 522-3627

Brian Curtis Massey Baylor Scott & White Clinic 425 University Blvd Round Rock, TX 78665 (512) 509-0200

Child Neurology Consultants Of Austin 6811 Austin Center Blvd., Suite 400 Austin, TX 78731 (512) 494-4000

Lindsay Elton Child Neurology Consultants Of Austin 6811 Austin Center Blvd., Suite 400 Austin, TX 78731 (512) 494-4000

Jeffrey Kane Child Neurology Consultants Of Austin 6811 Austin Center Blvd., Suite 400 Austin, TX 78731 (512) 494-4000

Holistic Mental Health Services 4131 Spicewood Springs Rd. Suite F-1 Austin, TX 78759 (512) 562-9117

DELL Children’s Medical Center of Central Texas 4900 Mueller Blvd ,2nd Floor, Marnie Paul Specialty Care Center Austin, TX 78723 512-324-0137

Karen Seroussi

Michael S. Reardon

Vibrant Minds Psychiatry Clinic 1914 Justin Lane Austin, TX 78757 (512) 300-0428

Child Neurology Consultants Of Austin 6811 Austin Center Blvd., Suite 400 Austin, TX 78731 (512) 494-4000

PEDIATRIC ANESTHESIOLOGY

Deborah K. Countie

Sophia Khan

Austin Regional Clinic 11714 Wilson Parke Avenue Suite 150 Austin, TX 78726 (737) 247-7200

UT Physicians 11914 Astoria Boulevard, Suite 280 Houston, TX 77089 (713) 486-1160

Michael S. Powers Sheri Michelle Ravenscroft Dell Children’s Medical Center 5339 North Interstate 35 Suite 100 Austin, TX 78723 (512) 324-0098

Ascension Seton Medical Center Austin 3705 Medical Pkwy #570 Austin, TX 78705 (512) 454-2554

Nhung Thi-Vien Tran

PEDIATRIC CARDIOLOGY

Baylor Scott & White McLane Children’s Specialty Clinic 1901 SW HK Dodgen Loop Temple, TX 76502 (254) 724-5437

Meeta Cardon

Karen Cecilia Keough Nakia G. Scott

DEVELOPMENTAL BEHAVIORAL PEDIATRICS

PEDIATRIC ALLERGY IMMUNOLOGY Alison Humphrey Texas Children’s Specialty Care - Austin 8611 N. Mopac, Suite 300 Austin, TX 78759 (737) 220-8200

Ashish Virendra Banker Baylor Scott & White Clinic 1700 University Dr E College Station, TX 77840 (979) 207-3300

Gregory Leigh Johnson Dell Children’s Medical Center 4314 Medical Pkwy, Ste 200 Austin, TX 78756 (512) 454-1110

Michael Yoting Liu 4804 Avenue H Austin, TX 78751

Jackee Dawn Kayser Ascension Seton Medical Center Austin 1301 Barbara Jordan Blvd., Suite 200 Austin, TX 78723 (512) 628-1870

Stuart A. Rowe Childrens Cardiology Associates 4314 Medical Pkwy #200 Austin, TX 78756 512- 454-1110

Jeannine Schuman McCoy William R. Otto Austin Regional Clinic 6811 Austin Center Blvd Suite 300 Austin, TX 78731 (512) 346-8888

Pediatric Cardiology Of Austin 1110 E 32nd Street Austin, TX 78722 (512) 320-8388

Ronald B. Shapiro Pooja Varshney Dell Children’s Medical Center 1301 Barbara Jordan Blvd, Suite 200 Austin, TX 78723 (512) 628-1870

Pediatric Cardiology Of Austin 1110 E 32nd Street Austin, TX 78722 (512) 320-8388

Frank Wong Pediatric Cardiology Of Austin 1110 E 32nd Street Austin, TX 78722 (512) 320-8388

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ST. DAVID’S CHILDREN’S HOSPITAL Carla Laos, M.D. Dr. Carla Laos is a double board certified physician in both Pediatrics and Pediatric Emergency Medicine. She completed her Pediatrics residency at UF Jacksonville in Florida and her Pediatric Emergency Medicine Fellowship through Baylor College of Medicine at Texas Children’s Hospital in Houston. She worked as a Pediatric EM attending at Dell Children’s Medical Center, Austin’s Level 1 children’s hospital, for 4 years before heading north to help build St. David’s Children’s Hospital Peds ED Department. There she served in the capacity of Medical Director of the Pediatric ED and Section Chair of the Department of Pediatric Emergency Medicine for 4 years. In addition to working in Austin, she helps provide PEM coverage at Methodist Children’s Hospital in San Antonio and McAllen TX to help care for patients at Edinburg Children’s Hospital near the Texas/Mexico border. She is one of the founders of the Pediatric EMS Education Committee, collaboration between the only 2 children’s hospitals in Austin which welcomes representatives from all EMS agencies to develop pediatric specific education for all EMS providers. She was recently appointed as one of the Travis County EMS & STARFLIGHT Associate Medical Directors, and she continues to provide pediatric education for Austin’s first responders. Carla and her husband Patrick have 2 daughters, Violet who is 5 years old, and Penelope who is 2 years old. Her husband Patrick is in the fitness profession and heads up the wrestling program at Tenth Planet Jiu Jitsu in Austin.

Fun facts about Carla She was a top level club competitive gymnast for UT Austin Gymnastics for 3 years. She followed up that career with crew at a Division 1 Women’s Crew Team her senior year in college! She loves live music and attends Austin City Limits music festival yearly with friends and family. Her EMS Associate directorship is a unique honor in Pediatric Emergency medicine as this usually require an EMS fellowship to obtain that directorship.

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Top Pediatrics Karen Wright Children’s Cardiology Associates 4314 Medical Pkwy #200 Austin, TX 78756 (512) 454-1110

PEDIATRIC DERMATOLOGY Moise L. Levy Ascension Seton Medical Center Austin 1301 Barbara Jordan Blvd., Suite 200 Austin, TX 78723 (512) 628-1920

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

PEDIATRIC E NDOCRINOLOGY Farah Khatoon Texas Children’s Specialty Care - Austin 8611 N. Mopac, Suite 300 Austin, TX 78759 (737) 220-8200

Marisa Rodriguez Izaguirre Ascension Seton Medical Center Austin 1301 Barbara Jordan Blvd., Suite 200 Austin, TX 78723 (512) 628-1810

Muralidhar Jatla Bonnie Gayle Leyva Ascension Seton Medical Center Austin 1301 Medical Parkway, Suite 200 Cedar Park, TX 78613 (512) 628-1830

Baylor Scott & White Clinic 1901 SW H K Dodgen Loop Temple, TX 76502 (254) 724-5437

PEDIATRIC GENERAL

Steve E. Rasmussen Austin Regional Clinic 1807 W Slaughter Lane Suite 490 Austin, TX 78748 (512) 282-8967

Rajani Prabhakaran

Martha B. Abreu-Macomber

Dell Children’s Medical Center 1000 Hesters Crossing Rd. Round Rock, TX 78681 (512) 628-1830

Abreu-Macomber Martha B MD 2113 Wells Branch Pkwy Austin, TX 78728 512- 251-1699

Matthew David Stephen

Geshia Austin

Baylor Scott & White McLane Children’s Specialty Clinic 1901 SW HK Dodgen Loop Temple, TX 76502 (254) 724-5437

Austin Regional Clinic 1807 W Slaughter Lane Suite 490 Austin, TX 78748 (512) 282-8967

Ronald George Tee Baylor Scott & White Clinic 425 University Blvd Round Rock, TX 78665 (512) 509-0200

PEDIATRIC EMERGENCY MEDICINE

Lynn Mildred Azuma Eileen Stewart

Joanne Gordon Adams 2600 Lake Austin Blvd, Apt 10302 Austin, TX 78703

Children’s Cardiology Associates 4314 Medical Pkwy #200 Austin, TX 78756 (512) 454-1110

Eric Alan Higginbotham US Acute Care Solutions 6300 La Calma Dr Ste 200 Austin, TX 78725 (512) 452-8533

Carla M. Laos Dell Children’s Medical Center 4900 Mueller Blvd, Austin, TX 78723

(512) 571-7257 Robert Martin Vezzetti US Acute Care Solutions 6300 La Calma Dr #200 Austin, TX 78752 (512) 452-8533

Baylor Scott & White Clinic 425 University Blvd Round Rock, TX 78665 (512) 509-0200

Elizabeth Ann Bartlett PEDIATRIC GASTROENTEROLOGY Bharani P. Challa Dell Children’s Medical Center 1301 Barbara Jordan Blvd, Suite 200 Austin, TX 78723 (512) 628-1810

David J. Easley Dell Children’s Medical Center 1301 Barbara Jordan Blvd, Suite 200 Austin, TX 78723 (512) 628-1810

D. Dyer Heintz Ascension Seton Medical Center Austin 1301 Barbara Jordan Blvd., Suite 200 Austin, TX 78723 (512) 628-1810

Hill Country Pediatrics 6618 Sitio Del Rio #A101 Austin, TX 78730 512-241-1370

Arthur C. Cheng Austin Regional Clinic 801 East Whitestone Blvd Building C Cedar Park, TX 78613 (512) 259-3467

Jennifer C. Christensen Austin Regional Clinic 15801 Highway 71 Building 1, Suite 100 Bee Cave, TX 78738 (512) 676-2500

Deborah K. Countie Austin Regional Clinic 11714 Wilson Parke Avenue Suite 150 Austin, TX 78726 (737) 247-7200

Avis Meeks Day Austin Regional Clinic 3816 South 1st Street Austin, TX 78704 (512) 443-1311

Lee R. Dockray Austin Regional Clinic 901 Crystal Falls Parkway Suite 103 Leander, TX 78641 (512) 259-2198

Mai Xuan Duong Ascension Seton Medical Center Austin 1807 West Slaughter Ln #490 Austin, TX 78748 (512) 282-8967

Judith Whitmire Enders Jacques Benun Austin Regional Clinic 11300 E Highway 290 Suite 230 Manor, TX 78653 (512) 582-6075

Austin Regional Clinic 2100 Autumn Slate Dr Suite 150 Pflugerville, TX 78660 (737) 220-7200

Lisa Wun Kam Gaw Alissa B. Brekken Austin Regional Clinic 10401 Anderson Mill Road Suite 110B Austin, TX 78750 (512) 250-5571

Scott A. Broberg Austin Regional Clinic 3816 South 1st Street Austin, TX 78704 (512) 443-1311

Austin Regional Clinic 4477 S Lamar Suite 400 Austin, TX 78745

William F. Getman Austin Regional Clinic 6835 Austin Center Blvd Austin, TX 78731 (512) 346-6611

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SCHOOLHOUSE PEDIATRICS Elizabeth Reidy, M.D. Dr. Reidy graduated from Northwestern University Medical School and completed her pediatric residency at James Whitcomb Riley Hospital for Children in Indianapolis. Following 17 years of practice in the areas of Chicago and Austin, Dr. Reidy founded Schoolhouse Pediatrics in 2007 to care for the children and families of the Westlake community. Her skills and compassion quickly extended beyond Austin to include kids throughout Central Texas. As a general pediatrician she thoroughly enjoys spending time with children and partnering with their families to help those children thrive. Dr. Reidy is proud to again be named an Austin Monthly Top Doctor. A board certified pediatrician, she is a Fellow of the American Academy of Pediatrics. She has advised, mentored and taught countless students pursuing careers in medicine. Dr. Reidy and the entire team at Schoolhouse Pediatrics work closely together to deliver the best care possible to every child.

Schoolhouse Pediatrics 4201 Bee Cave Rd., Ste. C100 Austin, TX 78746 512-327-1155 www.schoolhousepediatrics.com

Adana Gipson

Boris A. Gritzka

Dhruve S. Jeevan

Sharon C. Leong

River Ridge Pediatrics 1526 Leander Rd. Georgetown, TX 78628 (512) 863-7586

Austin Regional Clinic 3816 South 1st Street Austin, TX 78704 (512) 443-1311

Central Texas Brain & Spine 12319 N. Mopac Expwy, Suite 150 Austin, TX 78758 (512) 837-7999

Austin Regional Clinic 4515 Seton Center Parkway Suite 220 Austin, TX 78759 (512) 338-8388

Helena C. Gonzalez

Conor O. Hagen

Elizabeth C. Knapp

Marjan A. Linnell

Austin Regional Clinic 6835 Austin Center Blvd Austin, TX 78731 (512) 346-6611

Austin Regional Clinic 4100 Everett Street Suite 400 Kyle, TX 78640 (512) 295-1333

Austin Regional Clinic 6835 Austin Center Blvd Austin, TX 78731 (512) 346-6611

Austin Regional Clinic 4100 Everett Street Suite 400 Kyle, TX 78640 (512) 295-1333

James M. Goodman

Kristi K. Harvey

Walter B. Kuhl

Allison J. Lopez

Austin Regional Clinic 1807 W Slaughter Lane Suite 490 Austin, TX 78748 (512) 282-8967

Austin Regional Clinic 940 Hesters Crossing Road Round Rock, TX 78681 (512) 244-9024

Austin Regional Clinic 940 Hesters Crossing Round Rock, TX 78681 (512) 244-9024

Austin Regional Clinic 15803 Windermere Drive Suite 103 Pflugerville, TX 78660 (512) 989-2680

Danielle Denise Grant

Claire M. Hebner

Anupama K. Lakshmikanth

Janet F. Mitchell

DELL CHILDRENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MEDICAL CENTER OF CENTRAL TEXAS 4900 Mueller Blvd ,2nd Floor, Marnie Paul Specialty Care Center Austin, TX 78723 512-324-0137

Austin Regional Clinic 3816 South 1st Street Austin, TX 78704 (512) 443-1311

Austin Regional Clinic 6835 Austin Center Blvd Austin, TX 78731 (512) 346-6611

Austin Regional Clinic 4515 Seton Center Parkway Suite 220 Austin, TX 78759 (512) 338-8388

Anna E. Holliman

Arti Lal

Austin Regional Clinic 2100 Autumn Slate Dr Suite 150 Pflugerville, TX 78660 (737) 220-7200

Baylor Scott & White Health 9800 N Lake Creek Pkwy, Ste 200 Austin, TX 78717 512-336-3400 AU ST INM O NT HLY.C O M / M AR C H 2 0 2 0

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Lindsey Moore

Elizabeth Reidy

Natalie Blanche Tarrant

Cedar Park Pediatric & Family Medicine 13625 Ronald Reagan, Blvd. Bldg. 6 Cedar Park, TX 78613 (512) 336-2777

Schoolhouse Pediatrics 4201 Bee Caves Road, Suite C-100 Austin, TX 78746 (512) 327-1155

Hill Country Pediatrics, PA 6618 Sitio Del Rio, #A101 Austin, TX 78730 (512) 241-1370

Knema P. Rezaei Bazazizad

Michael Ward

Austin Regional Clinic 1807 W Slaughter Lane Suite 490 Austin, TX 78748 (512) 282-8967

Austin Regional Clinic 3420 FM 967 Suite B-100 Buda, TX 78610 (512) 295-1608

Kellie A. Rice-Monteiro

John Richard Worrel

Austin Regional Clinic 801 East Whitestone Blvd Building C Cedar Park, TX 78613 (512) 259-3467

Austin Diagnostic Clinic 2400 Cedar Bend Dr 2400 Cedar Bend Dr Austin, TX 78758 512- 901-4016

Rebecca E. Mouser Austin Regional Clinic 1807 W Slaughter Lane Suite 490 Austin, TX 78748 (512) 282-8967

Ky Q. Nguyen Austin Regional Clinic 10401 Anderson Mill Road Suite 110B Austin, TX 78750 (512) 250-5571

Angelle Oliver Austin Regional Clinic 10401 Anderson Mill Road Suite 110B Austin, TX 78750 (512) 250-5571

Ryan P. Peterson Austin Regional Clinic 2100 Autumn Slate Drive Suite 150 Pflugerville, TX 78660 (737) 220-7200

Keerti K. Peterson Austin Regional Clinic 801 East Whitestone Blvd Building C Cedar Park, TX 78613 (512) 259-3467

Mary C. Petropoulos Austin Children’s Clinic, PA 11673 Jollyville Road, Suite 104 Austin, TX 78759 (512) 338-5130

Ross F. Prochnow Austin Regional Clinic 4515 Seton Center Parkway Suite 220 Austin, TX 78759 (512) 338-8388

Alan K. Rashid Austin Regional Clinic 940 Hesters Crossing Road Round Rock, TX 78681 (512) 244-9024

Maria C. Scranton Austin Regional Clinic 940 Hesters Crossing Road Round Rock, TX 78681 (512) 244-9024

Sue M. Shieh Austin Regional Clinic 4515 Seton Center Parkway Suite 220 Austin, TX 78759 (512) 338-8388

Shaili M. Singh Austin Regional Clinic 15803 Windermere Drive Suite 103 Pflugerville, TX 78660 (512) 989-2680

Austin Regional Clinic 940 Hesters Crossing Road Round Rock, TX 78681 (512) 244-9024

PEDIATRIC HEMATOLOGY ONCOLOGY

Austin Regional Clinic 801 East Whitestone Blvd Building C Cedar Park, TX 78613 (512) 259-3467

Central Texas Pediatric Orthopedics 1301 Barbara Jordan Blvd., #300 Austin, TX 78723 (512) 478-8116

Brian Kaufman Central Texas Pediatric Orthopedics 1301 Barbara Jordan Blvd., #300 Austin, TX 78723 (512) 478-8116

Chris Souder Central Texas Pediatric Orthopedics 1301 Barbara Jordan Blvd., #300 Austin, TX 78723 (512) 478-8116

PEDIATRIC OTALARYNGOLOGY ENT Stacey Clark Dell Children’s Medical Center 3705 Medical Pkwy, Suite 200 Austin, TX 78705 (512) 324-2720

Virginia Lynn Harrod Ascension Seton Medical Center Austin 1301 Barbara Jordan Blvd., Suite 401 Austin, TX 78723 (512) 628-1900

Patrick K. Connolly

Robert Mignacca

Dell Children’s Medical Center 3705 Medical Parkway Suite 200 Austin, TX 78705 (512) 324-2720

Dell Children’s Medical Center 3705 Medical Pkwy, Suite 200 Austin, TX 78705 (512) 324-2720

Corrie E. Roehm Dell Children’s Medical Group 1301 Barbara Jordan Blvd Suite 401 Austin, TX 78723 512-628-1900

Jeremy Sebastian Linda G. Shaffer

Christopher C. Spencer

Matthew Ellington

Hana I. Zibdeh-Lough

Sapna Shah Austin Regional Clinic 10401 Anderson Mill Road Suite 110B Austin, TX 78750 (512) 250-5571

PEDIATRIC ORTHOPEDICS

Dell Children’s Medical Center 1301 Barbara Jordan Blvd, Ste 401 Austin, TX 78723 (512) 628-1900

Austin Regional Clinic 3816 South 1st Street Austin, TX 78704 (512) 443-1311

PEDIATRIC PSYCHIATRY Donald T. Wells

Mara S. Tache Austin Diagnostic Clinic 2400 Cedar Bend Drive Austin, TX 78758 (512) 901-4016

Dell Children’s Medical Center 1301 Barbara Jordan Blvd, Ste 401 Austin, TX 78723 (512) 628-1900

Brian Curtis Massey Baylor Scott & White Clinic 425 University Blvd Round Rock, TX 78665 (512) 509-0200

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PEDIATRIC PULMONOLGY

PEDIATRIC RHEUMATOLOGY

Danielle Beachler

Janet Ellen Orrock

Dell Children’s Medical Center 11111 Research Blvd #300 Austin, TX 78759 (512) 380-9200

Dell Children’s Medical Center 1301 Barbara Jordan Blvd, Suite 200 Austin, TX 78723 (512) 628-1880

Kavita Patel Texas Children’s Specialty Care - Austin 8611 N. Mopac, Suite 300 Austin, TX 78759 (737) 220-8200

Jordan V. Scalo Dell Children’s Medical Center 11111 Research Blvd, Ste 300 Austin, TX 78759 (512) 380-9200

PEDIATRIC RADIOLOGY Lori L. Barr ARA Diagnostic Imaging 12554 Riata Vista Circle Austin, TX 78727 (512) 795-5100

PEDIATRIC SURGERY Nilda Montemayor Garcia Ascension 1301 Barbara Jordan Blvd #400 Austin, TX 78723 512- 708-1234

Austin Pediatric Surgery 1301 Barbara Jordan Blvd, Suite 400 Austin, TX 78723 (512) 708-1234

Ankur R. Rana Austin Pediatric Surgery 1301 Barbara Jordan Blvd, Suite 400 Austin, TX 78723 (512) 708-1234

Julie I. Sanchez Austin Pediatric Surgery 1301 Barbara Jordon Blvd, Suite 400 Austin, TX 78723 (512) 708-1234

Jeffrey R. Horwitz Dell Children’s Medical Center 1301 Barbara Jordan Blvd, Ste 400 Austin, TX 78723 (512) 708-1234

Michael D. Josephs

Po Box 160610 Austin, TX 78716

Ascension 1301 Barbara Jordan Blvd #400 Austin, TX 78723 512- 708-1234

Binh Truong

Tory A. Meyer

ARA Diagnostic Imaging 12554 Riata Vista Circle Austin, TX 78727 (512) 795-5100

Austin Pediatric Surgery 1301 Barbara Jordan Blvd, Suite 400 Austin, TX 78723 (512) 708-1234

Debra Jo Pennington

Jessica Ann Naiditch

PEDIATRIC UROLOGY Vani S. Menon Children’s Urology 1301 Barbara Jordan Blvd, Suite 302 Austin, TX 78723 (512) 472-6134

AUSTIN MIND AND BEHAVIORAL HEALTH Mohammad Amjad Khan, M.D.

Kelly J. Nast Children’s Urology 1301 Barbara Jordan Blvd, Suite 302 Austin, TX 78723 (512) 472-6134

George M. Seremetis Children’s Urology 1301 Barbara Jordan Blvd, Suite 302 Austin, TX 78723 (512) 472-6134

How Top Pediatricians Were Selected Austin Monthly partnered with DataJoe Research, a software and research company specializing in data collection and verification that conducts various nominations across the United States on behalf of publishers. To create this list, DataJoe Research facilitated an online peer-voting process. DataJoe checked and confirmed that each published winner had, at time of review, a current, active license status with the appropriate state regulatory board. If we were not able to find evidence of a physician’s current, active registration with the state regulatory board, that physician was excluded from the list. In addition, we checked available public sources to identify physicians disciplined for an infraction by the state regulatory board. These entities were excluded from the list. Finally, DataJoe presented the tallied result to the magazine for its final review and adjustments. Throughout this section, there are also paid advertisements, purchased by physicians who were selected for the list; however no payment was exchanged for inclusion on the list.

Dr. Mohammad Amjad Khan completed his Adult Psychiatry residency training at Texas Tech University, El Paso. He then proceeded to do further training to specialise in Child and Adolescent Psychiatry at University of Michigan, Ann Arbor, where during his training, he received an award for excellence in patient care. Dr. Khan is board certified in child, adolescent and adult psychiatry. He has published several papers on different psychiatric illnesses in reputed peer reviewed scientific journals. He has extensive experience in treatment of psychiatric illnesses across different modalities. Austin Mind and Behavioral Health 11673 Jollyville Road, Suite 201 Austin, TX 78759 (512) 579-0304

We recognize that there are many good physicians who are not shown in this representative list. This is only a sampling of the huge array of talented professionals within the region. Inclusion in the list is based on the opinions of responding physicians in the region. We take time and energy to ensure fair voting, although we understand that the results of this survey nomination and internet research campaign are not an objective metric. We certainly do not discount the fact that many, many good and effective lawyers may not appear on the list. DataJoe uses best practices and exercises great care in assembling content for this list. DataJoe does not warrant that the data contained within the list are complete or accurate. DataJoe does not assume, and hereby disclaims, any liability to any person for any loss or damage caused by errors or omissions herein whether such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident, or any other cause. All rights reserved. No commercial use of the information in this list may be made without written permission from DataJoe. Questions? For research/methodology questions, contact the research team at surveys@datajoe.com. AU ST INM O NT H LY.C OM / M AR C H 2 0 2 0

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D IN IN G R ESTA URA NTS

For our take on many more Austin dining spots, visit austinmonthly.com/restaurants.

WHERE TO EAT

Restaurants in Austin Monthly’s Dining Guide are selected and reviewed by the editorial team.

AMERICAN BEST APIS Don’t dismiss this spot because it’s 30 minutes west of town. With dozens of beehives on its property, this restaurant helps promote the survival of honeybees and displays their bounty in its dishes. For a full sampling, try the chef’s seasonal prix-fixe fourcourse dinner menu. Dinner WedSat; Sun brunch. 23526 Hwy. 71 W. Spicewood, (512) 436-8918 $$$

BEST BARLEY SWINE This popular gastropub offers an eclectic, everchanging selection of dishes made with locally sourced ingredients. Chef Bryce Gilmore’s tasting menu makes it easy to try a wide array of seasonal items that range from smoked goat and fried Brussels sprouts to shrimp fundido and shiitake dumplings. Dinner MonSat. 6555 Burnet Road, Ste. 400, (512) 394-8150 $$

CAFE NO SÉ Set inside the hip

South Congress Hotel, this streetside cafe has a relaxed vibe and West Coast–inspired menu. Order the poké bowl with tuna, brown rice, olives, and grapefruit, or the delicious shrimp burger topped with kewpie mayo. Don’t leave without trying one of the fantastic pastries or desserts. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. 1603 S. Congress Ave., (512) 942-2061 $$ CENTRAL STANDARD Located

at South Congress Hotel, this restaurant evokes 1950s and ’60s New York City in its decor and vibe and showcases American classics on its menu, such as king salmon crudo, baked mac ‘n’ cheese, and an charred Caesar salad. Dinner daily; Sat and Sun brunch. 1603 S. Congress Ave., (512) 942-0823 $$$ BEST

DAI DUE First a supper club,

now a brick-and-mortar, this hyper-local restaurant is one of the

best in town. Its buttery-tender meats and just-picked produce are crafted into simple yet sophisticated delicacies with layered flavors that will leave your taste buds begging for more. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner, Tue-Sun. 2406 Manor Road, (512) 524-0688 $$ EBERLY Take a trip back in time at Eberly, which is reminiscent of midcentury Manhattan. It’s even got a piece of New York history with its cedar bar from the historic Cedar Tavern Bar, where many of the city’s artists and musicians once drank. In addition to admiring the sheer beauty of the place, order items such as tagliatelle with wild boar ragu. Dinner daily. 615 S. Lamar Blvd., (512) 916-9000 $$$ BEST EMMER & RYE With a commitment to supporting local producers, farmers, and ranchers, Emmer & Rye takes an alternative approach to dining. The Rainey Street restaurant offers a dim sum–style cart service as well as large and small dishes such as Mangalitsa pork loin and red corn johnny cakes with crème fraîche. Don’t miss its artful, delicious desserts like the tres leches cheesecake and a koji egg cream. Dinner Tue-Sun, Sun brunch. 51 Rainey St., Ste. 110, (512) 366-5530 $$

too. Dinner Tue-Sat. 306 E. 53rd St., (512) 459-1010 $$ BEST

JEFFREY’S RESTAURANT AND

BAR An Austin institution that was

revamped in 2013, the white-tablecloth restaurant features firstclass food and impeccable service. From the tender dry-aged steaks to the cheese cart and wine list, everything is impeccably rendered. Dinner daily. 1204 W. Lynn St., (512) 477-5584 $$$ BEST LAUNDERETTE Chef Rene Ortiz and pastry chef Laura Sawicki serve delicious, approachable cuisine at this trendy East Austin spot. Expect to wait and people-watch before sitting down to a meal full of fresh ingredients and complex flavors, evident in the fried chicken sammie with coriander poblano slaw. And definitely leave room for one of Sawicki’s desserts. Dinner daily; lunch, MonFri; brunch, Sat-Sun. 2115 Holly St., (512) 382-1599 $$

LEFTY’S BRICK BAR Opened concurrently with Vixen’s Wedding at the base of ARRIVE East Austin hotel, this all-day spot fell into the gastronomic shadows. But with Southeast Asian hybrids like Lefty’s signature Banh Boy stuffed with herbs, pickles, and creative proteins (try the fried chicken with fiery red curry), this low-key newcomer is well worth the visit. Lunch and dinner daily; 1813 C. East Sixth St., (737) 242-7550 $

is six restaurants, housed in Austin’s first chef-driven food hall, but you can nosh at them all. Try bites from Italic, Contigo Fareground, Dai Due Taqueria, TLV, Henbit, and Ni-Komé. You won’t be disappointed, but you might be full. Open daily. 111 Congress Ave. $

BEST ODD DUCK The famed trailerturned-restaurant helmed by James Beard Award nominee Chef Bryce Gilmore wows diners with innovative plates. The ever-changing menu is based on shareable items that keep things local and seasonal, including the Szechuan fried quail, chicken fried fish head, and surprisingly exciting roasted carrots. Lunch and dinner Mon-Fri; dinner Sat-Sun. 1201 S. Lamar Blvd., (512) 433-6521 $$

FOREIGN & DOMESTIC This North Loop restaurant is making Austinites more adventurous eaters. It offers gourmet dishes like goat heart bolognese over black pasta. There are options for vegetarians,

BEST PITCHFORK PRETTY With an emphasis on local, seasonal, and sustainable fare, Pitchfork Pretty’s Hill Country–inspired menu celebrates the area’s German, Southern, and Texan influences. Juicy red

FAREGROUND Actually, Fareground

chile fried chicken shares space with seasonal veggie dishes like the caramelized spaghetti squash and cabbage and collard roulade. Breakfast Mon-Fri; dinner Tue-Sat; Sun brunch. 2708 E. Cesar Chavez St., (512) 494-4593 $$ BEST SALT & TIME Butcher shop and salumeria Salt & Time is the destination for Austinites concerned about the quality of their meat. The shop not only sells sausages, steak, cured meats, wine, and local produce, it offers a full lunch and dinner menu that changes seasonally. Lunch and dinner Tue-Sat; Sun brunch. 1912 E. Seventh St., (512) 524-1383 $$

SPICY BOYS After the success of Soursop, the popular St. Elmo Brewing Company food truck that serves addiction-level sambal wings, chef-owner Teddy Bricker is back with another winning trailer-brewery combo. Parked in front of Zilker Brewing on the East Side, Spicy Boys doubles down on the hallowed pairing of fried chicken and beer. The wings are deliciously sauced, but it’s the fried chicken leg quarter that will make you a spicy fanboy. Save room for the Thai tea Oreo cheesecake. Tue-Sun. 1701 E. Sixth St., (512) 538-9658 $

ASIAN AH SING DEN The dishes on Ah Sing Den’s menu hail from several Asian cuisines. Try the Thai coconut curry soba or Burmese fried rice bowl. With an extensive cocktail menu and a dark and sexy vibe, this restaurant is a nice option for date night or girls’ night out. Dinner daily; brunch Sat-Sun. 1100 E. Sixth St., (512) 467-4280 $$ BE MORE PACIFIC This former food

truck is now a brick-and-mortar in North Shoal Creek serving Filipino

SYMBOLS KEY BEST

Best of the Best

$ Most entrees under $10 $$ Most entrees $10 to $25 $$$ Most entrees over $25

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cuisine that incorporates Malaysian, Chinese, and Spanish flavors. Try the Kare Kare, a brisket-based stew served with bok choy, Chinese long beans, and eggplant. Lunch and dinner Tue-Sun; Sun brunch. 7858 North Shoal Creek, (512) 814-7423 $ CHINA FAMILY RESTAURANT The Drag seems an unlikely place for such serious food, but that’s what you’ll find here: generous chunks of white fish bathing in a broth of toasted chili oil, silky mapo tofu, and crispy Chongqing chicken scattered with dried peppers. When making dining plans, it’s been all too easy to dismiss the UT fast-food milieu—but not anymore. Lunch and dinner daily. 1914 Guadalupe St., Ste. B, (512) 284-7671 $$ CHINATOWN One of the oldest Chinese restaurants in Austin, Chinatown has perfected the art of Asian cuisine. Sushi is served daily and dim sum on weekends. The fish entrees, such as the seafood clay pot and the cilantro shrimp, are excellent. Lunch and dinner daily. 2712 Bee Caves Road,

Tejate ice cream at Comedor.

Ste. 124, (512) 328-6588; 3407 Greystone Drive, (512) 343-9307; 107 W. Fifth St., (512) 637-8888 $$ BEST

DEE DEE This food truck’s

name means “good, good,” which is not hyperbole. Located behind Radio Coffee & Beer, the menu features Northern Thai street food such as pad kaprow, spicy stirfried pork topped with a variety of garnishes, and the laab moo, minced pork served with flavorful spices. The trailer also offers traditional Thai dishes with vegetarian substitutes. Lunch and dinner Wed-Sun. 4204 Manchaca Road $ ELIZABETH ST. CAFE The team behind Perla’s and Lamberts has also brought Vietnamese food to South First Street. Classic Vietnamese staples such as pho share the menu with more French-inspired fare like the broiled escargot with a Thai basil curry butter. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. 1501 S. First St., (512) 291-2881 $$ BEST KEMURI TATSU-YA Kemuri Tatsu-ya marries Japanese and Texan food cultures through a fu-

sion of smoky flavors and Eastern ingredients. This ethos is embodied in dishes like BBQ Tsukemen ramen with brisket and smoked jalapeños; and the chili cheese takoyaki, octopus fritters topped with Texas chili. Dinner Wed-Sun. 2713 E. Second St., (512) 893-5561 $ LUCKY ROBOT This South Congress spot features neon walls, ultramodern chairs, and harajukustyled waitresses. All the food is fresh and prepared in house, from the hand-pressed dumplings to the marinated-for-24-hours karaage chicken. There are also great happy hour deals daily from 4 to 6 p.m. Lunch and dinner daily. 1303 S. Congress Ave., (512) 444-8081 $ BEST OLD THOUSAND Thumping hip hop, cheeky decor, and attention to service set the tone for a meal at this East Side Chinese restaurant. While the atmosphere is playful, the food skews more traditional, with standouts including the General Tso’s chicken, brisket fried rice, and Mongolian beef. Cocktails like the Nasty Woman are fun and inventive. Lunch and

dinner daily. 1000 E. 11th St., Ste. 150, (737) 222-6637 $$ THE PEACHED TORTILLA The popu-

lar food truck is now a hopping brick-and-mortar. Featuring Asianinfluenced Southern comfort food, the menu includes crispy umami chicken wings, a Thai Chop Chop salad, and the JapaJam burger with tempura onion strings. The cocktails and desserts are equally creative. Lunch Fri-Sat. Dinner TueSun; Sunday brunch. 5520 Burnet Road, Ste. 100, (512) 330-4439 $$ BEST RAMEN TATSU-YA Forget the instant ramen of your youth: At the three Ramen Tatsu-ya restaurants, chef-owner Tatsu Aikawa and his crew serve the Japanese soul food right. A small but customizable menu offers several types of ramen; the traditional comes with pork bone broth, chashu, woodear mushrooms, and scallion. Be prepared for a long wait, as it’s first come, first served. Lunch and dinner daily. 8557 Research Blvd., Ste. 126; 1234 S. Lamar Blvd., (512) 834-8810; 1600 E. Sixth St., (512) 893-5561 $$

SARA MARIE D’EUGENIO

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BEST SWAY Pull up a seat at a communal table and let this modern Thai cuisine take your palate on a journey across Southeast Asia. Popular dishes such as the Son in Law and the Jungle Curry showcase peppery, sweet flavors and delicately prepared pork. Wash it all down with Sway’s house-brewed kombucha or Thai tea, and you’ll be yearning for more spicy fare. Lunch and dinner daily; brunch Sat-Sun. 1417 S. First St., (512) 326-1999; 11501 Rock Rose Ave., Ste. 100 $$

BEST THAI-KUN Searching for Thai food so hot it will practically melt your face off? (In a good way, of course.) Look no further. Named the eighth Best New Restaurant in the country in 2014 by Bon Appétit, this trailer is worthy of the title. We recommend the Waterfall pork, beef panang curry, and cabbage two ways—along with plenty of frosty beer. Dinner daily. 1816 E. Sixth St., (512) 480-0781 $

BAKERIES/COFFEEHOUSES EASY TIGER This dual-concept

bakery and beer garden makes it easy to grab freshly made baked goods or enjoy a cold one on its inviting patio. With more than 30 craft beers, fluffy pretzels, and deliciously seasoned sausages, Easy Tiger has something for everyone. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. 709 E. Sixth St., (512) 614-4972; 6406 N. I-35, Ste. 1100 $$ ROCKSTAR BAGELS The authentic

New York—style bagels at this walk-up window in East Austin might just give your morning breakfast taco a run for its money. Don’t miss the salt-rosemary bagel, bacon cream cheese, or bagel sandwiches. Breakfast and lunch daily. 1900 Rosewood Ave., (512) 524-1401 $ ROSEN’S BAGEL CO. Tom Rosen was so serious about creating an authentic New York–style bagel, with a perfect crust-to-chew ratio, that he actually staged at the source. Taking that bagel know-how back to Texas in 2017, he began a series of pop-ups that turned into a per-

manent residence at Wright Bros. Brew & Brew. Every one of the chef’s bagels, schmears (especially the lime, poblano, and scallion), and house-cured toppings is perfection. Open daily. 500 San Marcos St., Ste. 105; 801 Barton Springs Road, (512) 831-2199 $ TEXAS FRENCH BREAD Sometimes coffee, a flaky croissant, and a nice place to sit are all you need to get through the day. Linger long enough, and you might want to stay for dinner service at the farmto-table bistro, which has elevated its menu under new executive chef Max MacKinnon. Breakfast and lunch daily; dinner Wed-Sun. 2900 Rio Grande St., (512) 499-0544 $$ TIFF’S TREATS Want a box of cookies delivered to your doorstep, still warm from the oven and accompanied by a cold pint of Blue Bell? Done. Order chocolate chip, snickerdoodle, oatmeal raisin, sugar, peanut butter, or a combination. Open daily. Downtown, (512) 4732600; Research Blvd., (512) 3492200; Westlake, (512) 519-3300; Round Rock, (512) 808-4300; South Austin (512) 687-6800 $ TINY PIES Everything is cuter (and

more delicious) in a small package. Case in point: the petite offerings at Tiny Pies. Stop in and pick up a variety of sweet and savory mini pies, from classics like lemon and blueberry to unusual offerings such as blackberry balsamic or a tomato Peppadew quiche. Hours vary by location. 5035 Burnet Road, (512) 916-0184; 2032 S. Lamar Blvd., (512) 460-9697 $ TOUS LES JOURS The search

for tasty French breads, crispy baguettes, and addictive pastries ends here. This Korean-French bakery set up shop in North Austin and serves traditional French fare, such as croques monsieurs and croissants, as well as Easterninfluenced pastries like red bean–filled breads and sweet rice doughnuts. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. 6808 N. Lamar Blvd., Ste. B-115, (512) 373-8080 $ WALTON’S FANCY AND STAPLE

Coffee gurus and rushed lunch-

and–dinner eaters will adore this gourmet bakery and cafe owned by Sandra Bullock. Enjoy a variety of daily house-baked breads and grab an Italian soda. Walton’s also offers fresh-cut flowers, gift baskets, and catering. Breakfast and lunch daily. Dinner Thu-Sat. 609 W. Sixth St., (512) 542-3380 $

BARBECUE BEST FRANKLIN BARBECUE Early birds get the brisket at this megapopular barbecue joint on the East Side. The food, including legendary ribs, juicy pulled pork, smoky sausage, underrated sweets (try the bourbon banana pie), and that mouthwatering brisket, tends to sell out by 1 p.m., so arrive early, or at least before the eatery opens at 11 a.m. Lunch Tue-Sun. 900 E. 11th St., (512) 653-1187 $$

LA BARBECUE Juicy, tender brisket,

spicy house-made sausages, and fall-off-the-bone short ribs are just a few reasons La Barbecue has become a top destination for locals and visitors alike. The former food trailer is now in the heart of East Austin—inside the Quickie Pickie on Cesar Chavez. Sold by the pound, each meat is smoked to perfection in a custom-built pit and served on classic brown butcher paper. Lunch Wed-Sun. 2027 E. Cesar Chavez St., (512) 605-9696 $$ BEST LEROY & LEWIS Pitmaster Evan LeRoy’s technical skill and penchant for out-of-the-ordinary ingredients, sustainably and seasonally sourced from local purveyors, make him a worthy addition to an elite cadre. His sides are no afterthought: They rotate frequently, but have included creamy chorizo cheese grits and kimchi slaw with peppery beet barbecue sauce. Lunch and dinner Wed-Sun. 121 Pickle Road, (512) 945-9882 $$

BEST

brisket, perfectly seasoned ribs, handmade sausage, and coleslaw with a kick. Open Tue-Sun. 1309 Rosewood Ave., (512) 791-5961 $$ TERRY BLACK’S BARBECUE Owners Mike and Mark Black already have the name going for them—their family runs and owns Lockhart’s Black’s Barbecue. Although they’ve broken off from that business, they still bring expertise to smoked ribs, turkey, brisket, and more. Don’t forget a side of mac ‘n’ cheese and baked potato salad. Lunch and dinner daily. 1003 Barton Springs Road, (512) 394-5899 $$ STILES SWITCH BBQ AND BREW

Looking for good barbecue and a family atmosphere? At Stiles Switch, brisket, pork ribs, and sausage reign supreme. The homemade sides, including lemon vinaigrette coleslaw, mac ‘n’ cheese, and corn casserole, aren’t bad either. Lunch and dinner Tue-Sun. 6610 N. Lamar Blvd., (512) 380-9199 $$

BREAKFAST + BRUNCH BEST HOLY ROLLER Chef Callie Speer and her all-female management team serve a brunch-all-day menu in a tough-luxe atmosphere where comfort is queen. Choose from an array of breakfast sandwiches, fluffy pancakes, and throwback snacks, which bear Speer’s signature blend of playful nostalgia and serious technique. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. 509 Rio Grande St., (512) 502-5119

$$ MAGNOLIA CAFE The cafe is always

open, and it’s always slinging great breakfast food. Choose from several types of pancakes, Magnolia “Mud” queso, or the flavorful Pasta Caspian, with grilled chicken, artichoke hearts, and black olives. Open daily 24 hours. 1920 S. Congress Ave., (512) 445-0000; 2304 Lake Austin Blvd., (512) 478-8645 $

MICKLETHWAIT CRAFT

MEATS Former baker Tom Mickle-

PAPERBOY Slow down your hectic

thwait ditched bread for pork and now serves barbecue and madefrom-scratch sides from this East Austin trailer. Try the black-barked

morning with a visit to this food trailer, where free copies of the Austin American-Statesman and The New York Times are available

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upon request. Order the oatmeal, topped with ingredients like bacon, granola, and fruit, or the savory steak-and-egg sandwich. Breakfast and lunch Tue-Sun. 1105 S. Lamar Blvd.; 1112 E. 12th St. $

BURGERS + SANDWICHES BANGERS SAUSAGE HOUSE & BEER GARDEN Choose from an array of

sausages, sides, and more than 100 beers on tap at this lively beer garden. With communal seating, a huge patio, and a dog park, your dining experience will be fun and delicious. Lunch and dinner MonSat; Sun brunch. 79 & 81 Rainey St., (512) 386-1656 $$ CASINO EL CAMINO This downtown

spot raises the bar by offering great burgers in a rock ‘n’ roll setting. The Amarillo Burger, with roasted serranos, jalapeño jack, and cilantro mayo puts other pub grub to shame. Lunch and dinner daily. 517 E. Sixth St., (512) 4699330 $ FLYRITE CHICKEN SANDWICHES

This fast-casual dine-in and drive-through serves tasty chicken sandwiches with high-quality ingredients. Slurp a thick creamy shake, and dip your french fries in one of the tasty housemade sauces, such as cucumber yogurt or sweet Thai chili. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. 2129 E. Seventh St., (512) 284-8014; 6539 Burnet Road, (512) 243-6258 $ MUM FOODS DELICATESSEN Culinary royalty like Texas Monthly’s Daniel Vaughn and Suerte chefowner Sam Hellman-Mass were such fans of this farmers market pop-up, that the latter lent the concept a temporary storefront in the erstwhile home of Elaine’s Pork and Pie. Now co-owner Geoffrey Ellis has much bigger platform to showcase his range of slowroasted deli meats: Paris-style ham, melt-in-your-mouth turkey, and Mum’s already-famous pastrami. Lunch and dinner Tue-Sat. 2113 Manor Road $

at Philly’s famed Hershel’s East Side Deli before moving to Texas. Missing that brined and smoked meat so elegantly served between rye, he opted to introduce the best version of his hometown fare to the capital city. Along with partner Conor Mack, Smith serves some of Austin’s most coveted pastrami, which he pairs with crispy coleslaw and Russian dressing on Otherside’s signature sandwich. Lunch and dinner daily. 1104 W. 34th St., Ste. D, (512) 407-9702 $ POOL BURGER Like other McGuire

Moorman Hospitality restaurants, Pool Burger is meticulously decorated and executed. The burgers are delicious—the meat is juicy and mouthwatering, the buns buttery and toasty, and the accoutrements crisp. French fries here are of the crinkle-cut variety, and with a stellar veggie burger, even vegetarians will leave happy. Lunch and dinner daily. 2315 Lake Austin Blvd., [512] 334-9747 $

COFFEE AND TEA BEST

COSMIC COFFEE & BEER

GARDEN Partners Paul Oveisi and

Patrick Dean restored a oncebarren lot into nearly an acre of green space, incorporating the permaculture principles Oveisi had been applying in his own backyard. There’s a biological pond, vegetable garden, enclosed chicken coop, and verdant native vegetation. Grab a cup of specialty coffee or a cocktail and linger in the certified wildlife habitat. Open daily. 121 Pickle Road, (512) 481-0694 $ HOUNDSTOOTH COFFEE This mind-

ful cafe focuses on the interaction between coffee and people: “We are only as good as the coffees we serve and the good folks who make and drink them.” The East Austin location has a full bar and craft cocktails. Open daily. 2823 E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., (512) 243-8902; 401 Congress Ave., Ste. 100C, (512) 394-6051; 4200 N. Lamar Blvd., (512) 531-9417 $

spent five years slinging pastrami

WRIGHT BROS. BREW & BREW With almost 40 different craft beers on tap and a selection of roasted coffees, this East Austin spot straddles the line between relaxed cafe and laid-back bar, plus it has breakfast and lunch from Rosen’s Bagels. Open daily. 500 San Marcos St. Ste. 105, (512) 493-0963 $

FRENCH + EUROPEAN

coffee, partake of a cocktail or two, and sample the 25-plus

the direction of executive chef Gerard Kenney, the kitchen turns out French standards that hew strictly to tradition. Francophiles looking for a Proustian madeleine will be pleased to find faithful re-creations of those petite lemony treats, as well as onion soup, croque madame, gougères, and steak frites. Lunch and dinner daily. 110 San Antonio St., (512) 580-7651 $$$

INDIAN THE CLAY PIT The lamb tikka ma-

sala arrives at your table steamy and delicious, complemented by fragrant basmati rice. The khuroos-e-tursh has established itself as a house favorite. Lunch and dinner daily. 1601 Guadalupe St., (512) 322-5131 $$

BATCH CRAFT BEER & KOLACHES

The Czech kolache has a long history as part of Texas’ food culture, but Batch offers a fresh, modern spin on a beloved classic. With more than 400 single-bottle beers and buttery kolaches made from scratch by chef Jasmine Jones, this is not the highway gas station pastry joint of your youth. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Tue-Sun. 3220 Manor Road, (512) 401-3025 $ JUSTINE’S This hidden gem has

transformed a quiet, industrial stretch of East Fifth into something straight from the French countryside. Choose between dishes like steak tartare, moules frites, escargots, saumon cru, and ratatouille. Dinner Wed-Mon. 4710 E. Fifth St., (512) 385-2900 $$ LENOIR Take your taste buds on a delectable ride at this cozy South First Street restaurant that serves French-inspired “hot weather food.” Chef-owner Todd Duplechan changes the prix-fixe menu at his whim, so you never know what you will get, though it will always surprise and delight. Dinner TueSun. 1807 S. First St., (512) 215-9778 $$ LE POLITIQUE Le Politique is a

RADIO COFFEE & BEER Sip Merit OTHERSIDE DELI Derrick Smith

draft beers on tap at this South Austin hot spot. Pair drinks with local treats from Sugar Mama’s Bakeshop and Clever Baking Co., or head outside for tacos and Thai street food from the Veracruz and Dee Dee trailers parked next to the patio. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. 4204 Manchaca Road, (512) 394-7844 $

spacious brasserie with ample patio space at the corner of San Antonio and Second streets. Under

G’RAJ MAHAL After four-plus years as a popular trailer, G’raj Mahal’s brick-and-mortar spot proves casual yet aesthetically decadent. Begin with a crunchy curried goat samosa before moving on to the sorpotel, a traditional Goan pork chili. If you’re looking for vegan dishes, don’t miss the baingan aloo, a savory roasted eggplant, potato, and onion mix. Lunch and dinner daily. 73 Rainey St., (512) 480-2255 $$

ITALIAN + MEDITERRANEAN INTERO Italian for “whole” or “complete,” Intero eschews waste with a nose-to-tail, whole-plant approach to a highly seasonal menu emphasizing Italian classics. Try the homemade pastas, like agnolotti with wagyu beef confit and black garlic. Dinner Tue-Sun. 2612 E. Cesar Chavez St., (512) 5994052 $$ ITALIC One of chef Andrew Curren’s newest culinary endeavors takes on relaxed Italian dishes ranging from creamy penne rigate alla Bolognese to seared calamari. With house-made focaccia served up by the friendly staff and delicious Negronis, Italic brings an authentic Italian feel to the capital city. Lunch and dinner Mon-Fri;

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dinner Sat-Sun. 123 W. Sixth St., (512) 660-5390 $$ TLV Another food truck success

story, this partnership between Berty Richter and Emmer & Rye’s Kevin Fink brings world-class Israeli cuisine to downtown. Taking over the vacated Easy Tiger spot in the Fareground food hall, TLV offers outstanding breakfast options such as shakshuka and pillowy sufganiyot (doughnuts typically eaten during Hanukkah) with fillings like Turkish coffee cream. Richter’s sabich and silky hummus are not to be missed at lunch and dinner. Open daily. 111 Congress Ave., (512) 608-4041 $

LATIN AMERICAN BUENOS AIRES CAFE Touted as one

of the city’s premier date-night restaurants, the intimate cafe serves up delicious Argentine fare. Try the empanadas, but save room for the desserts. Lunch and dinner daily; Sun brunch, 13500 Galleria Circle, (512) 441-9000; Lunch and dinner, Mon-Sat. 1201 E. Sixth St., (512) 382-1189 $$ CAFÉ NENA’I This mother-daugh-

ter-run shop features Cuban coffee drinks and South American fare. Try their arepas, a thick and salty corn patty filled with chopped ham, eggs, and gooey cheese. Your breakfast sandwich game may be forever changed. Breakfast and lunch, Tue-Sun. 1700 Montopolis Drive, Ste A, (512) 840-9066 $ YUYO Take a tour through Peru’s

diverse cuisine at this East Austin spot. Yuyo’s well-curated menu hints at the Andean nation’s distinct biodiversity and agriculture, from purple corn, potatoes, and peppers to the cebiche and lomo saltado. Dinner daily. 1900 Manor Road, (512) 919-4147 $$

MEXICAN + TEX MEX BEST COMEDOR The imposing black edifice that houses Gabe Erales and Philip Speer’s homage to Mexico City may hide a sultry

interior courtyard, but Comedor’s cuisine is anything but withholding. For instance, a meaty hunk of halibut with an energetic green mole. And bone-marrow tacos, paired with an aromatic hoja santa gremolata, command attention like no other dish in town. Dinner daily; Sun brunch. 501 Colorado St., (512) 499-0977 $$$ ELDORADO CAFE Easygoing and

casual, Eldorado Cafe doles out breakfast-to-dinner dishes of Mexican-inspired comfort fare with a dash of old Austin charm. Tacodeli fans may recognize Joel Fried as the long-time chef of the local chain and, indeed, Eldorado shares some of its hallmarks: high-quality ingredients and elevated (but approachable) food that’s affordable and not too fancy. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Tue-Sun. 3300 W. Anderson Lane, Ste. 303, (512) 420-2222 $ FONDA SAN MIGUEL For more than four decades, this has been the spot to savor the flavors of Mexico in a fine-dining setting. The romantic atmosphere is enhanced by its museum-worthy Mexican artwork, and the seductive aroma of mole, roasted poblanos, and other delicacies. Dinner Mon-Sat; Sun brunch. 2330 W. North Loop, (512) 459-4121 $$ FRESA’S CHICKEN AL CARBON

Searching for a fast, healthy meal? Look no further than this Mexican joint that specializes in all-natural marinated chicken. Try the No. 1 meal: a half or whole achiote- and citrus-charcoal grilled chicken with all the fixings, including grilled onions, charro beans, house-made corn tortillas, jalapeños, and salsas. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. 915 N. Lamar Blvd., (512) 428-5077; 1703 S. First St., (512) 992-2946 $$ MATT’S EL RANCHO The festive Mexican restaurant has developed a loyal clientele over the past 68 years. Its shaded patio is a fantastic spot to sip a margarita and indulge in Matt’s’ famous Bob Armstrong dip. Lunch and dinner Wed-Mon. 2613 S. Lamar Blvd., (512) 462-9333 $$

POLVOS The make-your-own enchi-

ladas are among the best in town, and the salsa bar is superb. Great menu items include the fish and shrimp selections, among others. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. 2004 S. First St., (512) 441-5446; 360 Nueces St., (512) 494-4064 $$ VAQUERO TAQUERO Throw a dart

and you’ll hit a winner on Miguel and Daniel Cobos’ streamlined menu, whether breakfast tacos stuffed with options like machacado, nopales, and seared Oaxaca cheese, or the remarkable al pastor freshly shaved off the trompo. Salsas are all housemade, tortillas are kneaded right in front of guests, and each dish is assembled with care. Breakfast and lunch Tue-Sat. 104 E. 31st St., (512) 383-5582 $ VERACRUZ ALL NATURAL Capitalizing on the success of its three food trucks, the award-winning taqueria now has two brick-and-mortar locations. In addition to trying its famous tacos, stuffed with everything from migas to carnitas and tilapia, order the guacamole and quesadillas, and wash it all down with a mango or watermelon agua fresca. Breakfast and lunch daily; dinner Mon-Sat. Five Austin-area locations $

PIZZA BUFALINA This pizza place is all

about simplicity. The dozen or so pizzas on the menu are prepared fuss-free, with less than six ingredients piled on Neapolitan-style crust. Be prepared to be wowed by the house-made mozzarella and stellar wine list. Dinner Wed-Sun. 1519 E. Cesar Chavez St., (512) 524-2523; 6555 Burnet Road, (512) 215-8662 $$ BEST PIEOUS A big pizza pie—that’s amore! Owners Josh and Paige Kaner strive for loving perfection in each of their artisan Neapolitan pizzas. The eatery also prepares pastrami and other meats in the smoker left by previous owners. Try the bacon blue cheese pizza and finish off your meal with a bigas-your-face cookie. Lunch and

dinner daily. 166 Hargraves Drive, Bldg. H, [512] 394-7041 $$ PINTHOUSE PIZZA It’s always difficult to track down this pizza joint/craft brewery’s flagship beer, Electric Jellyfish IPA, around town. That’s why you come right to the source to enjoy it alongside artisan pies like the Armadillo, a pizza topped with poblanos, ricotta, and local Weisswurst sausage. Lunch and dinner daily. 4729 Burnet Road, (512) 436-9605; 4236 S. Lamar Blvd., (512) 502-5808; 2800 Hoppe Trail, Round Rock, [512] 717-0869 $$ BEST VIA 313 This pizzeria brings Detroit to Austin with its “insideout” square pies. For the uninitiated, Detroit pizza features the meat on the bottom, sauce on top, and crust that’s as thick and fluffy as Sicilian-crust bread. As a bonus, the Via 313 trailers stay open until 2 a.m. on Thursdays through Saturdays. Lunch and dinner daily. Five Austin-area locations $$

SEAFOOD CLARK’S OYSTER BAR Larry McGuire

and Tom Moorman, the owners of 11 Austin restaurants, scored again with this upscale seafood restaurant serving caviar, Champagne, and a variety of oysters. The authentic crab cake features broiled, tender lumps of blue crab with hollandaise sauce. Lunch Mon-Fri; dinner daily; brunch Sat-Sun. 1200 W. Sixth St., (512) 297-2525 $$$ QUALITY SEAFOOD This unassuming spot is both a restaurant and a wholesale market, and the fish is delicious. Visit the store and sample the famous gumbo and oyster po’boys. Lunch and dinner Mon-Sat. 5621 Airport Blvd., (512) 454-5827 $$ PERLA’S Take a trip to the East

Coast without leaving Austin by visiting this oyster paradise with a Cape Cod vibe. Fresh oysters rotate daily, but if you’re looking for a standby, try the crispy snapper. Lunch and dinner Mon-Fri; brunch and dinner Sat-Sun. 1400 S. Congress Ave., (512) 291-7300 $$$

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SOUTHERN FIXE Southern cooking takes center stage at

this downtown eatery, where comfort food and innovative preparations are combined to offer Austinites elevated cuisine with a homey feel. Standout items include biscuits, deviled eggs, pescavore grits, and pimiento mac ‘n’ cheese. Dinner daily; Sun brunch. 500 W. Fifth St., (512) 888-9133 $$$ BEST MATTIE’S AT GREEN PASTURES Many an Austinite has celebrated a milestone on Green Pastures’ lush, oak-draped grounds over the years. The menu is decidedly American and Southern, with just enough global gloss. After an extensive renovation and menu refresh in 2017, the restaurant remains classic and upscale yet approachable under the direction of chef Ethan Holmes. Brunch Sat-Sun; dinner Tue-Sat. 811 Live Oak St., (512) 444-1888 $$$

BEST OLAMAIE You’ll find comfort food and Southern hospitality at this restaurant just north of downtown. Must-try dishes include the Hoppin’ John, Gulf white shrimp with Jefferson red rice, the heavenly biscuits (which aren’t on the menu), and pie for dessert. Dinner daily. 1610 San Antonio St., (512) 4742796 $$$

SUSHI BEST

OTOKO An air of exclusivity surrounds

this Japanese restaurant tucked inside South Congress Hotel. With 12 seats, two seating times a night, hidden signage, and a ticketing system, patrons can expect ultimate luxury. The 22-course kaiseki-style experience doesn’t disappoint, with standouts like smoked steelhead roe, sawara, and chicken liver pâté. Dinner Wed-Sat. 1603 S. Congress Ave., (512) 772-5899 $$$

food, including blueberry cornbread and a soul food plate filled with marinated collard greens and organic red and black beans. The grilled cheese sandwich is divine. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. 1900 S. First St., (512) 416-1601 $ COUNTER CULTURE The organic vegan and raw food options here include a barbecue jackfruit and bean quesadilla and a Philly cheesesteak with house-made seitan. Lunch and dinner daily; brunch Sat-Sun. 2337 E. Cesar Chavez St., (512) 524-1540 $$ HIGH NOTE CEO Mason Ayer replicates the

ethos of sister brand Kerbey Lane Cafe—albeit for a large variety of dietary needs. That means an attention to quality and pricing in the health sector, with affordable options in the gluten-free, paleo, and ketogenic categories. There are the requisite bone broth concoctions and a wealth of cold-pressed juices, but cheat days aren’t out of the question either. For example, a double cheeseburger stacked with Akaushi beef. Open daily. 300 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste A, (512) 879-2822 $$ JUICELAND Health is the name of the game

at this popular juice and smoothie spot that boasts more than 20 locations across Austin. Try one of the fresh juices, smoothies, or cleanses, and make it your own by adding something extra, like raw cacao or nut butter. Open daily. 22 Austin-area locations $$ PICNIK A haven for food-sensitive diners,

this trailer turned brick-and-mortar features a menu that eschews gluten, soy, corn, and peanuts. Start your meal with the delightful chicken tender appetizer, made with rice flour and fried in avocado oil, and try the eggplant rollatini or Cobb salad as your entree. Need a pick-me-up? Snag a coffee amped up with grass-fed butter and MCT oil. Open daily. 4801 Burnet Road, (737) 2260644; 1700 S. Lamar Blvd., (512) 293-6118 (Trailer, limited menu) $$

UCHIKO This second child of famed chef Ty-

son Cole has the same hip Zen atmosphere and fresh, expertly prepared dishes as Uchi. But the restaurant offers new twists and turns that are convincing long-time Uchi fans to spread their love between the siblings. Dinner daily. 4200 N. Lamar Blvd., (512) 9164808 $$$

THE SOUP PEDDLER This small white storefront began when an Austinite started delivering soup to customers by bicycle. Soup Peddler serves a rotating menu of tasty soups, such as mulligatawny and green goddess, as well as fresh fruit juices, smoothies, sandwiches, and salads. Open daily. Five Austin-area locations $ AM

VEGETARIAN-FRIENDLY BOULDIN CREEK CAFE This South Austin

haunt is known not just for its kitschy “Caffeine Dealer” sign, but also for its delicious, made-from-scratch vegetarian and vegan AU ST INM O NT HLY.C OM / M AR C H 2 0 2 0

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W EIRD H IS T O RY SX S W

Austin Chronicle staff members survey damage from the 1991 blaze.

MARCH MADNESS

Gunshots rang out and fire engulfed buildings during SXSW’s unforgettable fifth year. BY ROSIE NINESLING

n the spring of 1991, an enraged manager of a Sixth Street reggae bar attempted to yell over a buzzing mass of people awaiting a SXSW showcase. Packed shoulder to shoulder, the crowd began to grow restless; many had waited all day for the concert, leaving them unfazed by the manager’s desperate pleas for order. Finally able to cut through the noise, he shouted his demands: If some people didn’t leave, he’d have a fire marshal clear the overcrowded venue out entirely. Greeted by yet another series of blank stares, he finally lost it—firing his pistol into the ceiling, sending plaster and attendees scattering in every direction.

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At the time, SXSW had only been around for five years, but its skyrocketing popularity had siphoned off much of its quirky small-town vibe. That led to mayhem the conference had never before seen. It was also the first year UT’s spring break didn’t coincide with the festival, meaning hordes of students were in town to take in live shows. Consequently, fire marshals were called in to cancel concerts across downtown. One particularly egregious case of overcrowding at Abratto’s caused the club’s headlining act— The Dixie Chicks—to perform in a converted conference room at a nearby Hyatt instead. The cherry on top? The Austin Chronicle’s offices, which doubled as SXSW headquar-

ters, were set on fire by an arsonist who took a match to stacks of its newspapers. By the time the blaze was contained, much of what remained of the building was smoke-stained and soaking wet. Backlash against SXSW was brutal in the wake of the bedlam, but cofounder Louis Black didn’t take it to heart. “This notion that we should stop growing, I don’t even understand how we can do it,” he said in a 1991 Austin American-Statesman article. Black was right: With a star-studded schedule and more than 400,000 people expected to attend this year’s conference, it’s clear that neither flame nor firearm could tarnish the festival’s reputation. AM

P HOTO BY MA RT H A G RE NON

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AUSTIN MONTHLY MARCH 2020

BEST TACOS • 45 SEASONS OF AUSTIN CITY LIMITS • RICHARD LINKLATER

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