Eng Guide 2018 by Athens Voice

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City & Islands Guide 2018

C i t y

i s l a n d s

G u i d e

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Maps Included

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cityguide2018 city cityguide 2018 Publisher Fotis Georgeles Editorial Consultant: Stavroula Panagiotaki

Editorial Director: Angeliki Birbili

Art Director: Konstantina Vlachopoulou

Editorial Team: Yannis Nenes, Nenela Georgele, Lena Chourmouzi, Takis Skrivanos, Georgia Skamanga, Yiannis Dimopoulos, Yiannis Tsakalos, Eleni Bezirianoglou, Katerina Vnatsiou, Marianna Marmara, Danai Kamzola, Ero Partsakoulaki, Philippa Dimitriadi, Athina Gorou, Marios Velentzas, Nikos Papailliou Photographer: Thanassis Karatzas Copy Editor: Dimitra Grous Creative Art Director: Fotis Pechlivanidis Layout & Design: Morfoula Vogiatzoglou, Sotos Anagnos Advertising Director: Louiza Nathanail Group Advertising Manager: Anastasia Bafouni Advertising Manager: Xenia Katsioula Direct Market: Marina B. Georgiopoulou, Stefania Moustaki, Vassilis Zafiroulis, Krista Fotinopoulou, Ioanna Papageorgiou Advertising Coordinators: Niki Skamaga Digital Advertorial Coordinators: Efi Orfanakou Financial Director: Efi Mourtzi Accounting: Ourania Michali, Maria Karahontziti An annual publication of ATHENS VOICE S.A. Harilaou Trikoupi 22, 106 79 Athens-Greece Editorial: tel +302103617360 Advertising: tel +30210 3617530 www.bestofathens.gr e-mail: info@bestofathens.gr Copyright ATHENS VOICE 2017

ASE RECYC LE

Anastasios Bakolas @a.bakolas MEMBER @team_greece @greecetravelgr1_

Photo: KONSTANTINOS KARATHANOS @con_sequences

IT Manager: Vaios Syntsirmas

Dear friends, This year, the country of Greece is ready to welcome a new record number of tourists. Over 32 million people are estimated to be visiting – that is almost three times Greece’s population! Here at Athens Voice –Greece’s leading publication for 15 years– we are excited to warmly welcome all of you to our beautiful country. In doing so, we have prepared our annual guide, packed with all of our insider knowledge and expertise of everything Athens has to offer. For instance, you can find yourself at a popular spot for drinks, or an off-thebeaten-path art gallery. These are our favourite destinations! We hope to be your trusted companion during your stay. Additionally, don’t forget to check out bestofathens.gr and bestofthessaloniki.gr for even more great tips. Share your favorite moments on Instagram using the hastags #athensvoice, #lookmag, #athensvoiceradio.

Enjoy your stay!

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Greece explained Archaelogical sites Museums Athens Epidaurus Festival 2018 Culture & Art Neighbourhoods Stay Cool Beaches Camping Shopping Bookshops Hotels Restaurants Bars & clubs Mykonos Spetses Tinos Naxos Kythnos Ios Rhodes Maps Metro CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 3

Welcome to Greece

Greece A to Z

ATHENS Could Athens become the new Berlin? The BBC wondered not long ago. Poor but sexy? There’s definitely a hype around the Greek capital, as its empty industrial spaces offer cheap studios for emerging artists who are fleeing from all over Europe. We shall see!

BROKEN PAVEMENTS and slope warning: don’t expect properly conserved pavements and roads. BOUZOUKIA The ultimate Greek night-out. Large stages, whiskey & flowers. Yes, we like to throw flowers at the singer to show our

4 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

appreciation – don’t ask why.

CROSS Older people will cross themselves when passing a church. It’s a common gesture for good luck.

DRIVERS they are kind of sloppy. Beware. DERTI “An unrelenting sense of loss or unfulfilled desire”. It’s a word to describe the feeling you get after a heartbreak, a sentiment Greeks love to sing about. DRUGS Marijuana is illegal in Greece. If you are found carrying it around (or using it) you will probably get arrested.

Greece: Associated by most with its long, sunny Greek summer, golden beaches, turquoise waters, traditional food by the sea. But our country is a lot more than this. Athens, the capital, despite the crisis, is still a buzzing metropolis, a lively hive of creative spirit, with something of interest for all its visitors. Below are some useful things to know from the minute you step foot in this wonderful country of contrasts.

Uploa your fa d vou momen rite instagr ts on am u the has sing h #athen tag svoice

By YANNIS NENES - Photo: ΤΗΑΝΑSSIS KARATZAS

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 5

ΑΤΗΕΝS TRivia ❱❱ The rails on the pedestrian pathway at Makriyiannis str. are the remnants of the old Athenian Tram – it stopped operating in the early 60s. ❱❱ The underground river flowing underneath Monastiraki Sq., some of its parts now exposed in sight, is Eridanos river.

❱❱ The name of the english nobleman who removed the marbles of Parthenon is Thomas Bruce, 7th Earl of Elgin. ❱❱ The first Athenian suburb was Kolonos.

❱❱ Back in 1853 the population of Athens was 30,000. Today it exceeds 3,5 million.

❱❱ The Presidential Guard (Evzones) in front of the Greek Parliament building at Syntagma, “rotates” every hour.

❱❱ Facing the building of the Academy of Athens, the statue on the left is Plato and that on the right is Socrates.

❱❱ The Parthenon’s roof was kept well maintained for more than 2,000 years, until late 17th century, in 1687, when it was bombarded by the Venecians under Francesco Morosini.

❱❱ There are 29 cities in the world named “Athens”, seven of which are found in the United States.

❱❱ About 7% of all the marble produced in the world comes from Greece. ❱❱ Greece enjoys more than 250 days of sunshine – or 3,000 sunny hours a year.

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EATING in Athens never fails to please. Just be careful of restaurants that seem very “touristic” – the food there is usually not the best.

FOUSTANELLA Traditional pleated kilt that comes of the 19th century. It is worn by the guards of the former Royal Palace, Evzones, (meaning the “well-belted”elite soldiers, a term traced in Homer’s times). You can take your picture next to them and see if they blink. Every so often they do a little march to break the monotony of standing still all day and at 6pm you can watch the changing of the guards. Just make sure that you do not stand in their way; they are not allowed to stop for any reason –instead, they can march– kick the obstacles with their pompom shoes. FRAPPE SOCIETY Frappe coffee is the lifeblood of Greek society. Made with instant Nescafe mixed with water, ice, milk and lots of sugar, a frappe will provide you with the right amount of caffeine for your coffee break, and the right buzz to sip while gossiping and people watching.

GRAFFITI Athens used to be a paradise for graffiti artists, as most of them would go unpunished... Still, there are many creative graffiti artists who spray the city in their own colourful way. GREEK COFFEE Unfiltered coffee probably of Turkish origin. Served hot in small cups. You drink only the liquid part. Greek coffee has to be made the traditional way that most die-hard old men coffee shops (cafeneon) follow: boiled on hot sand. There is a long tradition in Greece of reading coffee cups and foretelling the future ñ a highly prized skill.

HONEY An ancient super food. Hippocrates advised people to eat honey every day in order to live longer. From the early prehistoric times until today the art of apiculture and honey collection still remains a primary agriculture activity for Greeks. Due to long periods of sunshine, Greek honey is internationally known for its distinct biological and organoleptic characteristics. The abrupt changes of landscape make Greek flora so rich, that 7,500 different species of plants are growing in Greece giving many different flavours of honey, especially in the region of Attica and Crete. You will want to try thyme honey, which cannot be found anywhere else in the world.

INTERNET Most cafes and restaurants offer free Wi-Fi. Ask for the password. IT IS A SMOKER’S PARADISE Smoking is very popular in Greece and still relatively cheap compared to the rest of Europe. Nonsmoking signals in bars are not to be trusted. If you are looking for a smoke-free environment, ask the waitress.

JEWELRY SHOPS Everywhere! Greek men don’t wear so much gold like the Italians do. Except maybe, a golden cross their mama gave to them 30 years ago! Greek women love jewels but, most of all, tourists love handcrafted gold since it is inexpensive in Greece but also for its high quality and excellent craftsmanship.

KAFSONAS If you hear this word on the news, be prepared: it means heatwave. KIOSKS We call them “periptero” and they provide almost anything. Cigarettes, milk, snacks, condoms etc. Some of them stay open 24/7: that’s the best part of it. KOULOURI Walking around the city, you will spot some men selling this round pastry coated in sesame seeds. It’s the most healthy snack you can find for a relatively small price (maximum €1,5).

MALAKA The most common address between friends or enemies. Among friends it is used like “dude”. But if the person addressing you with this word looks angry, walk away because you... never know! MOUTZA You may notice that some drivers give an open palm gesture to each other. It’s a kind of an offensive curse of Byzantine, or French, or Venetian origin.

ΝEOCLASSICAL HOUSES Beautiful buildings of the 19th century have survived and they have been renovated. Most of them in the area of Plaka.

OWL Throughout the antiquity, goddess Athena and her companion owl served as city and primary coin type. What made the Athenian silver so popular and long lasting was its status as the definition of good money. The modern Greek one-euro coin features the owl taken from the ancient Athenian fourdrachma piece which was practically the first coin in the history of Europe.

PALAMAKIA Clapping your hands rhythmically. Apart from showing appreciation, it’s also essential for dancing and having fun. PUBLIC TRANSPORT The subway (metro) in Athens is relatively new, clean and proper. But it’s far from covering the whole city: you can use the train to move from the North of the city to the port, and buses to move in the rest uncovered areas. The latter require patience and good will, because they are rarely on time.

QUEER ATHENS Gay and lesbian clubs and bars can be found in the area of Gkazi. You can find wild dance floors or quiet places within a kilometer of the metro station “Kerameikos”.

REBETIKA urban popular songs of the Greeks, especially the poorest, from the late 19th century to the 1950s. The word is

Happy is the man, I thought, who, before dying, has the good fortune to sail the Aegean Sea -Nikos Kazantzakis, “Zorba the Greek”

Photo: @con_sequences koNstaNtiNos karathaNos

connected to the adjective “rebetis”, which means a person connected to some paricular subculture. Rebetika are still very popular. RELAX The most important part of the Greek coffee ritual. Do a little chit chat, read a newspaper or just stay still thinking about great truths of life. Enjoy.

SANDALS There are quite a lot new designers (Christina Martini and Nikolas Minoglou, London based Marios Schwab for Ancient Greek Sandals footwear label, Zali Sandals, The Artians Collection, Greek Salad Sandals, Grecian Chick, Zeus+Dione and DiGaia, Greece Is For Lovers design team) who have updated the classic Greek leather sandals to a new impressive level. Not just strappy, raw-edged leather flats but contemporary designs combining aesthetics of Ancient Greek sculpture and modern streetwise accessories culture. SUPERSITIONS Greeks have many. The strongest among them is the “evil eye” – If someone looks at you in a bad way, he will “give you the evil eye”, headache and bad luck. That’s why we are very often wearing a small blue charm, for protection. SYRTAKI Popular Greek folk dance. A great example is the theme from “Zorba the Greek”, by MikisTheodorakis.

TAXIS They are yellow, they are everywhere and, compared to other international cities, the rates are still cheap. You should always request a receipt for the amount paid, which should also indicate the taxi registration number and the driver’s

“NEVER ON A SUNDAY” Oscar winning music theme for the movie of the same name. The composer, Manos Hadjidakis, is one of the most favorite Greek composers.

THE GREEK DIET It used to be simple: bread, cheese, vegetables, olive oil, wine, and on Sundays fish or pork. Beef was seldom eaten, and sheep and goats were kept mainly for hides, wool, and milk. Nowadays, it’s a Sunday everyday. GREEK BREAKFAST For many Greeks it consists of a quick coffee and cigarettes on the move.

name. If you do get overcharged don’t start a fight but report the licence plate to the Tourist police. You can always use Beat, and the TaxiPlon free applications for a ride, if you want to pay by card. TAP WATER in Greece is fine. And bottled spring water is readily available. Nevertheless, do not pay more than 50 cents for O,5L of bottled water.

VEGETABLES Preferably buy them from the farmer’s market (“laiki agora”). Held on various days of the week in neighborhoods throughout the city.

WINE is traditionally good in Greece. In small taverns, wine is served in kartoutsos (kar-tou-tchow), metal jars in fixed sizes. Many new bohemians consider them to be excellent kitchenware. WALKING When walking around the city centre, bear in mind that car drivers don’t usually respect the white-line crossings. Never, ever cross a street if the green light is not on. Also, be careful for pickpockets.

YASSOU is the a very common salute, meaning “hello”. Address a local like that to steal his heart and have him at hello.

ZEIBEKIKO A Greek improvisational dramatic solo dance for men. Its name comes from Zeybeks, people of Asia Minor. The dancer is surrounded by other people, who kneel and clap to him. It is a renowned dance for “mangas”, the macho archetype in the Greek poetry of masculinity. ● CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 7

Crossroads of History Monuments of time, art and civilization

By ELIZA SYNADINOU - Photo: GREGORY KOMNINOS @gregory.kom

Universal symbols of the classical spirit and civilisation, the Greek landmarks are numerous and equally magnificent: here, you can visit 17 Unesco World Heritage sites, among them, the worldâ€™s treasure, the Acropolis. 8 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

Acropolis of Athens

nce Attica’s citadel Acropolis is a complex of magnificent buildings, some of the greatest architectural and artistic monuments of all time. According to UNESCO, «On this hill, Democracy, Philosophy, Theatre, Freedom of Expression and Speech were born and provide to this day the intellectual and spiritual foundation for the contemporary world and its values». Gradually the Acropolis acquired a religious character. Goddess Athena became the city's patron during the 8th century BC. Some of the most impressive collection of architectural works were built during the Golden Age (5th BC) of statesman Pericles. His influence on Athenian society, politics, and culture was so great that historian Thucydides called him «the first citizen of Athens». The monuments were designed by a group of architects (such as Iktinos, Kallikrates, Mnesikles) while sculptors (such as Pheidias, Alkamenes, Agorakritos) transformed the rocky hill into a unique complex. By far the most impressive monument of all is the temple of Parthenon, built by Ictinos and Kallikrates (447-432BC). It is the most important surviving building of Classical Greece, generally considered the zenith of the Doric order. Its decorative sculptures are considered some of the high points of Greek art. The Parthenon is regarded as an enduring symbol of Ancient Greece, Athenian democracy and Western civilization, and one of the world’s greatest cultural monuments. There is also the Erectheion, dedicated to the god Poseidon. In its porch one can see the replacements of the famous Caryatids (421-406BC) that are now housed in the Acropolis museum. Other monuments include the impressive entrance to the Acropolis, known as the Propylaea, designed by Mnesicles (437-431 BC) and the temple of Athena Nike (421-407 BC).

Parthenon

he Parthenon combines the austere simplicity of the Doric order with the exquisite sophistication of the Ionic order. It is built on eight columns at the façade, and seventeen columns at the flanks, conforming to the established ratio of 9:4. The temple was dedicated to the city’s goddess patron Athena. It was conceived as the centre of a monumental complex in the Acropolis and its main function was to house the great gold and ivory statue of the goddess made by Pheidias. The temple was burnt by the Persians while it was still under construction in 480 BC. It is also renowned for its beautiful frieze, perhaps the most famous in the world, which depicts the religious ceremony known as the Panathinea.

` Daily 08:00-19:00. Admission. Fee: €20. Concessions: €10

(non-E.U. students/ over 65 y.o.) Free admission: E.U. students.

Map N7 Akropoli,+302103214172

The Theatre of Dionysus and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus

edicated to the god of theatre and wine, the Theatre of Dionysus is one of the oldest theatres of all time. Ιt used to house ancient Athens’s biggest theatre festival, Dionysia, thus the works of the three great dramatists, Aeschylus, Sophocles and Euripides were performed there. With raked tiers of stone seats, it was the first stone theatre ever built, in the mid 4th century BC. It could seat 17,000 people and it lays on the south slope of the rock of the Acropolis. The Odeon of Herodes Atticus was established in 161AD by the Athenian magnate Herodes Atticus in memory of his wife, Regina. The roofed Odeon served mainly musical festivals, and could host up to 5,000 spectators. The roof was destroyed in 267 AD. In later years, the Odeon was incorporated within the fortifications of the city of Athens. The Odeon was destroyed in 267 BC at the incursion of the Heruli (or Erils), who burnt and flattened many buildings in ancient Athens; it was never reconstructed contrary to other edifices that suffered damages. The amphitheatre was restored in the 1950s, as the Archeological Society removed tones of earth and used white marble from the Penteliko Mountain. Many of the buildings found here were converted into Christian monuments during the 5th century AD. Currently it hosts some of the most prestigious performances of the Athens and Epidaurus Festival, being a favourite summer destination for the Athenian art-lovers. Map N6, N7 Akropoli

The Ancient Agora

he heart of Ancient Athens, the Agora was the focus of political, commercial, administrative and social activity, the religious and cultural centre, and the seat of justice. The site was bustling with life throughout its history. The monument has been excavated by the American School of Classical Studies in Athens since 1931. This is literally the birthplace of Athenian Democracy. According to tradition, the first law court in Europe was at the Areopagus (“rock of Ares”, the god of war), next to the Agora.

` Daily 08:00-20:00. Admission. Fee: €8. Concessions: €4. Last Admission 19:45. Map L5 Thissio, +302103210185

Pnyx (Pnika)

his small rocky hill, was the official meeting place of the Athenian democratic assembly. Greek word Pnyx means “tightly packed together”. The assembly embodied the equal right of anyone to speak about public issues, following the formal address of the officer: “Tίs agorevein vouletai?” (“Who wishes to speak?”). Map M4 Akropoli

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Filopappou Hill

lso known as the Hill of the Muses, it is where Plutarch locates the battle between Theseus and the Amazons. It takes its name from Gaius Julius Antiochus Epiphanes Philopappos, a consul under the Roman emperor Hadrian. Filopappou also features a monument of the same name (a funerary column erected in 114-116AD), as well as a modern Observatory. Map P4 Akropoli

The Roman Agora & the Library of Hadrian

he large monuments dating from the Roman era can be found north of the Acropolis and east of the Ancient Agora, in the district of Plaka, in an area of 28,000 sqm. The Roman agora was built with a donation of Julius Caesar and Augustus. After the invasion of the Herulae in AD 267 Athens was restricted to the area within the Late Roman fortification wall, and the administrative and commercial centre of the city was transferred from the Ancient Agora to the Roman Agora and the Library of Hadrian. Hadrian’s Library, constructed by Hadrian as part of an effort to redesign Athens, in 132 AD, was utilized to accommodate the city’s largest library, state archives and philosophy schools. Other important monuments are the Gate of Athena Archegetis and the Water Clock (Horologion) or Tower of the Winds, with sculpted depictions of wind-related deities and an internal water clock, built in the 1st century BC by Macedonian astronomer Andronikos Kyrhestes. Other monuments include the Vespasianae (public latrines), the Agoranomion and the Fethiye Mosque (Tzami) which was built on the ruins of an Early Christian basilica.

` Daily 08:00-20:00. Admission. Fee: Roman Agora €8 (€4)/ Library Hadrian €4 (€2). Concessions: €4.

Map K7

Monastiraki

Choragic Monument of Lysicrates

he Monument of Lysicrates (335-334 BC) is the only surviving example of a choragic monument –the “choregos” was leader of the chorus, who sponsored its training and outfitting. It was constructed to commemorate the award of first prize to one of the performances Lysicrates had sponsored. The one of the very earliest examples of the Corinthian order, preceded almost a century before by the Temple of Apollo at Bassae, which Pausanias relates was built by Ictinus, the architect of the Parthenon. Map M9 Monastiraki

Keramikos

eramikos is small part of the ancient Attic Deme of Kerameon, one of the largest demes of ancient Athens, located on the northwest edge of the city. The area is

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extended both within and outside the ancient city walls. The name comes from the Greek word for pottery (“keramos” means pottery-clay, from which the English word “ceramic” is also derived) and the area used to be the potters’ quarters of the city in ancient times. It was also the site of an important cemetery. A set of projects, such as the construction of a network of visitor paths, the restoration of buildings, the re-opening of the Keramikos Museum, the placement of informative signposts, and the construction of an amphitheatre, were completed in 2004.

Daily 08:00-19:30. Admission Fee: €8. Concessions: €4. Free admission (E.U. students/over 65 y.o./under 18 y.o.). Map I4 Keramikos, +302103463552

Panathenaic Stadium

he Panathenaic Stadium is located on the site of an ancient stadium and for many centuries hosted games in which nude male athletes competed (“gymnikoi agones”) in track events, athletics championships as we would call them today. It is the Stadium of the first Modern Olympic Games and the world symbol of sports in Athens. It is also known as Kallimarmaro and it is the only stadium in the world made entirely by marble. It is also the venue where the Olympic flame handover ceremony takes place before every Olympic Games. During the occupation of Athens by the Romans, governor Hadrian had also constructed a stadium at this exact location, where gladiatorial contests were held for the public. In 1896, it was completely restored with pentelic marble, as an exact replica of the ancient one, with the purpose of hosting the first modern Olympic Games. During the Athens Olympic Games of 2004, it provided the venue for the archery event as well as for the finish of the Marathon Run. Next to the stadium is a beautiful hill, the Arditos Hill, ideal for a walk after a visit to the stadium.

` Daily 08:00-19:00. Admission: €5. Concessions: €2,5 (Students and over 65 y.o., under 6 y.o. free). Map O13. Morning Jogging is allowed from 07:30 until 09:00. Syntagma/Akropoli, +302107522984-6

Temple of Olympian Zeus

he Temple of Olympian Zeus was built over several centuries starting from 174 BC till 131 AD under the reighn of Roman emperor Hadrian. The site shows evidence of habitation from the Neolithic period while Pausanias claimed the ancient sanctuary to Zeus was first created at the site by the mythical figure of Deukalion. Today only fifteen of its 104 unusually tall columns are still standing. A sixteenth column lies on the ground, where it fell during a storm in the 19th century.

` Mon-Sun 08:00-20:00. Admission Fee: €6. Concessions: €3. Map O10 Akropoli ●

Get SVOICE ATHEN IDE GU one/ martph s r u o y on on web ens.gr stofath www.be

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 11

Museums Greece’s rich history on display By LENA CHOURMOUZI

reece’s profound connection to history is displayed in numerous museums, most of which are located in Athens city centre. They house a variety of artifacts from ancient times to the Byzantine era. The most popular is the modern airy, glass Acropolis Museum designed by Swiss architect Bernard Tschumi.

Friday night at the museum Every Friday the Acropolis Museum stays open until 22:00 and its restaurant until midnight. Enjoy a special menu with beautiful night views of the Acropolis and great value for money. The restaurant occupies 700 square meter of public terrace and commands a breathtaking view of the historic hills of Athens. A variety of hot dishes based on traditional recipes, seasonally updated are on offer daily. Mon 08:00-16:00, Tue-Thu & Sat-Sun

The Acropolis Museum

It’s an architectural jewel in the city of Athens. A modern glass building that allows the natural sunlight to embrace the statues, while also providing visitors with breathtaking views of the Acropolis opposite. It holds more than 20,000 pieces, unearthed during excavations in Athens. Located on the ancient road Dionysiou Areopagitou that leads to the Sacred Rock, on which the Parthenon rises above Athens. The Acropolis Museum was voted one of Trip Advisor travelers’ choice in 2016. It was also third in the Sunday Times list of the 50 best museums of the world. The museum is only 300 metres from the Acropolis and approximately two kilometres from Syntagma (Constitution) Square. Where possible try to avoid visiting during the rush hours of 10:00 to 14:00. Always begin the tour on the first floor at the northeast corner to best appreciate the significance of the Acropolis in the Mycenaean Period.

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Photo: Τhanassis Karatzas

National Archaeological Museum

08:00-20:00, Fri 08:00-22:00. Admission Fee: €5. Public entrance from Dionysiou Areopagitou/ Groups from Mitseon. For: the ground floor Shop and Café, the purchase of a ticket is not required. For: the second floor Shop and Restaurant, a free admission ticket is required from the Ticket Desk. Free admission EU students - ID required.

Map O8 Akropoli, Dionysiou Areopagitou 15, +302109000900, theacropolismuseum.gr

National Archaeological Museum In July and August the mercury can soar to 40°C (over 100 F). Therefore, it’s always better to visit in the early hours of the day when the sun is low and temperatures are lower.

The largest museum in Greece, and one of the most important museums in the world was founded at the end of 19th century. The museum’s collection includes: Prehistoric period, the Sculptures collection (which demonstrates the development of ancient Greek sculpture form the 7th to the 5th centuries BC). The Vase and Minor objects collection (ancient Greek pottery) and the Metallurgy collection (with many fundamental statues). Highlights include the Golden Mask of Agamemnon that was

Photo: VAGGELIS KORONAKIS

TheAcropolis Museum

unearthed by H. Schliemann in Mycenae. Latest additions include a 4th century BC gold funerary wreath and 6th century marble statue of a young woman, returned to Greece in 2007 by the Getty Museum in California. The museum is a 19th century neoclassical building, hosting more than 11,000 exhibits, and covers an area of 8,000 sq. metres, it was designed by L. Lange and remodeled by Ernst Ziller. Make sure that you have plenty of time to spend at the museum, at least 3 to 4 hours or an entire day. Don’t forget to visit the atrium’s garden, recently renovated, which displays 700 plants, many of them referred to in Greek mythology.

millennium BC. The glass-roofed corridor that connects the modern building of Neofytou Douka Street to the restored 19th century neoclassical Stathatos Mansion is a feast for the eyes. Don’t forget to visit the new Cycladic café that brings the taste of Aegean fresh air into the City of Athens, in more ways than one! It is the perfect place to enjoy your breakfast, brunch, lunch or just a coffee.

` Mon-Wed-Fri-Sat 10:00-17:00, Thu 10:00-20:00, Sun

11:00-17:00. Closed Tue. Admission fee: €7, Mon €3.5. Concessions: Seniors (over 65 y.o.) €3.5 - students 19-26 y. o. €3.5 - groups of 15 or more €5 each. Free admission: Kids and young persons under 18, visitors with disabilities and their companion, archaeologists, archaeology and art history students, members of ICOM, ICOMOS, journalists, qualified guides. Map K14 Syntagma/ Evangelismos, Vasilissis

` Tue-Sun 08:00-20:00. Mon 13:00-20:00. Admission fee:

€10. , Concessions: €5 Free admission: Visitors under 18 y.o., students from E.U. countries, admission card holders (Free Entrance Card, Culture Card, ICOM, ICOMOS), journalists, guides, soldiers. Map C10 Victoria, Patission

Sofias & Irodotou 1, Kolonaki, +302107228321-3, cycladic.gr

The Byzantine and Christian Museum

(28 October) 44, Victoria, +302132144800, namuseum.gr

Cycladic Art Museum

It was founded in 1986, to hold the collection of Nicholas and Dolly Goulandris. Since then it has grown in size to accommodate new acquisitions and important donations by important collectors. Ancient cultures of the Aegean and Cyprus, both permanent and temporary exhibits of approximately 3,000 objects from all phases of Cycladic, Ancient Greek and Cypriot art are housed in the two buildings of this museum. With special emphasis on the Cycladic Art of the 3rd

Many museums include a virtual tour of their space on their websites. It’s better to visit a museum prepared, rather than trying to orient yourself at the last minute

Over 25,000 artifacts from between the 3rd and 20th century AD: Early Christian, Byzantine, Medieval, post-Byzantine and later periods. The size and range of the collections and value of the exhibits make the Museum a veritable treasury of Byzantine and post-Byzantine art and culture. It also houses a conservation department. You can admire reconstructions of parts of early churches, wonderfully preserved mosaic floors and wall paintings. The early Christian ecclesiastical artifacts and icons can offer a ▶ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 13

Benaki Museum / Pireos 138

foretaste for those eager to make a tour of Athens’s abundant churches. The building was originally the villa of the eccentric French-American philhellene the Duchess of Plaisance. Inspired by the Greek War of Independence, she resolved to fund a museum. Mon 08:00-20:00. Τue-Sun: 12:00-20:00.

in 1453 through archival records, photographs, costumes and flags. Tue-Sun 09:00-14:30. Closed

Kolonaki, +302132139572, byzantinemuseum.gr

One of the oldest public museums in Greece, founded in 1834 it hosts a wide collection of coins, medals, as well as gems dating from Classical, Macedonian, Roman and Byzantine eras up to the foundation of the Modern Greek state. The collection is housed in Iliou Melathron, a neoclassical building near Syntagma (Constitution)Square. It was built and designed by German architect Ernst Ziller, and was originally the residence of celebrated archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann, the father of Mycenaean and Trojan archaeology. Tue-Sun 08:30-15:30.

Mon. Admission fee: €3 (over 18). Concessions: €1.5 students and senior citizens (+65 y.o.). Free admission: Sun, under 18 y.o. Map J11 Syntagma, Stadiou 13,

Syntagma, +302103237617

Numismatic Museum of Athens

Admission fee: €8. Concessions: €4. Free admission: under 18 y.o. Map K15 Evangelismos, Vasilissis Sofias 22,

The War Museum

The war museum was found in 1964, to honor all those who fought for the country’s freedom. It presents many important periods of Hellenic History. It explores military conflicts, including the Asia Minor campaign, the Balkan Wars, the involvement of Greek forces in Korea and even Cyprusrelated conflicts. It features 18th and 19th century swords, handguns and military uniforms. Standout exhibits include the fullscale model of the Daedalus and the fighter planes in front of the entrance. Visitors are recommended to start their visit from the first floor that hosts the hall of antiquities.

Closed Mon. Admission fee: €6. Concessions: €3. Lift access for persons with mobility difficulties. Free: under 18 y.o. Map J11 Syntagma, Panepistimiou 12, Syntagma,

` Tue-Sat 09:00-19:00, Sun 17:00-19:00, Mon closed. Ad-

+302103632057, 2103612834, 2103612872

Jewish Museum

mission fee: €4. Concessions: €2. Free admission: visitors under 19 years old, students from E.U. countries, senior citizens (over 65 y.o.) Map K16 Evangelismos, Rizari 2,

Evangelismos, +302107244464

National Historical Museum Even the building that this museum is housed in since 1960, is historical: it was once the first Greek House of Parliament. Its symbol is the commanding bronze statue of General Theodoros Kolokotronis, located in front of its entrance. The museum trails the history of Greece since the fall of the Byzantine Empire 14 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

Some museums let EU students in for free (others charge half price) and offer concessions for citizens over 65 and under 19. Do not forget your ID.

The aim of this museum is to provide a vivid picture of Jewish life and culture over a 2,300 year course. The museum displays more than 10,000 artifacts (some of them unique), investigating the Greek - Jewish experience in both religious and secular terms, in an area of 800 sqm. Also, there are plenty of planned activities and exhibitions.

Mon-Fri 09:00-14:30, Sun 10:00-14:00. Closed Sat. Admission fee: €6. Concessions: €3. Guided tours for groups: €50 (upon arrangement) Map L10 Syntagma, Nikis 39, Syntagma, +302103225582

Photo: Τhanassis Karatzas

EMST, Museum of Contemporary Art

Arts - Galleries

Benaki Museum of Islamic Art

Benaki Museum of Greek Culture

Collections from India, Persia, Mesopotamia, Asia Minor, Middle East, Arabia, Egypt, North Africa, Sicily and Spain. The Benaki Museum of Islamic Art demonstrates more than 8,000 works of art, including ceramics, gold, metalwork, textiles and glass, smaller groupings of bone objects, inscribed funerary steles and weaponry, as well as the marble-faced interior of a reception room from a 17th-century Cairo mansion. Ιt also includes a section of the ancient city wall of Athens and an ancient tomb both uncovered at the level of the houses’ foundations during the preservation works. Don’t leave without a glimpse at the view from its terrace café.

A major institution and landmark in the City of Athens, the museum is located in the upmarket district of Kolonaki. This impressive neoclassical building hosts more than 40,000 items in its permanent collection, illustrating the character of the Greek world through a spectacular historical panorama: from antiquity and the age of Roman domination to 1922, the year the Asian Minor disaster took place. Its founder, Antonis Benakis, belonged to one of the leading families of the Greek diaspora.

` Wed-Fri 10:00-18:00, Thu-Sat 10:00-00:00, Sun 10:00-

Thu-Fri-Sat-Sun 10:00-18:00. The Café is open every Saturday until 23:00. Admission fee: €9. Concessions: €7 students & over 65 €3-4. Free admission: under 22 y.o., disabled. Map I5 Thissio, Ag. Asomaton 22 & Dipilou 12,

16:00. Closed Mon-Tue. Admission fee: €9. Temporary exhibition: €7. Reduced: €7 students and over 65 y.o. Free admission: under 22 y.o, disabled.

Map K13 Syntagma, 1 Koumbari & Vasilissis Sofias, Kolonaki, +302103671000, benaki.gr

+302103251311, benaki.gr

Benaki Museum / Pireos 138

Α vast industrial space (8,200 sqm with underground areas of 2,800 sqm and an internal courtyard of 850 sqm. The exhibition halls span 3,000 sqm). It is dedicated to contemporary art and design and has no permanent collections. The Museum gift shop is filled with unique pieces for house design and decoration. The café-restaurant on the ground floor serves a good selection of dishes and is a good place for breakfast.

` Tue&Sun 10:00-18:00, Fri&Sut: 10:00-22:00. Closed on Mon&Wed. Also closed in August. Admission fee: €6-8, students & over 65 €3-4. Free admission: under 22 y.o., disabled. Map K1 Kerameikos, Pireos 138, Rouf,

+302103453111, benaki.gr

Museum of Contemporary Art EMST

❱❱ Wednesdays are usually the quietest days to visit any museum in the capital. ❱❱ Some museums remain closed on Mon or Tue.

Τhe former Fix Brewery on Syngrou Avenue, was designed by the visionary Greek modernist architect Takis Zenetos (19261977) in collaboration with Margaritis Apostolidis (1922–2005)— a mighty fourstory horizontal slab of concrete inserted into the city’s older fabric, with production lines visible from the street. The presentation of documenta 14 artists and artworks there is inspired by the sense of a libidinal economy, rethinking production and flows as always social and always public. Tue-Wed-Fri-Sat-Sun:

11.00-21.00, Thu: 11.00-23.00 Mon: Closed Admission fee €8, reduced fee €4 Map Q7 Fix, Kallirrois ave. & Amvr. Frantzi str. +302111019000-99, www.documenta14.de

▶

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 15

internationally renowned artist and jeweler. The permanent collection is enriched with donations including jewelry and decorative arts from all over the world. Lucky “Big spenders” usually head straight to the shop for 24K gifts! The museum includes many programs such as: jewelry design, making, gemology, art history, children’s theatre, special workshops on temporary exhibitions.

` Tue-Sat: 09:00-15:00, Sun: 11:00-16:00. Closed Mon. Admission fee: €5. Concessions: €4 for students, senior citizens and groups. Free admission every Saturday (except for special tours). Map O7 Akropoli, Karyatidon

& Kalisperi 12, Plaka +302109221044, lalaounis-jewelrymuseum.gr

Cycladic Art Museum

Municipal Gallery of Athens

Herakleidon Experience in Visual Arts

The gallery’s collections feature the visual works of 3,000 artists –most of them Greek–, representative of the trends, influences and discussions which have marked the journey of Greek art. The museum is housed in a neoclassical building, which was abandoned until 1854 and later housed a silk processing plant, a shopping and residential complex, and the headquarters of the Hellenic Police. Of special interest are the drawings of German architect Ernst Ziller, father of neoclassical design in modern Greece.

The museum and its annex consist of two small and beautiful neoclassical buildings that look more like large homes rather than museums. Now days the motto of the museum is “Science, Art and Mathematics”– it also focuses on the popularization of science. The exhibition program is loaded with works which play an important role in the evolution of contemporary art. Don’t forget to visit the gift shop, offering a wide selection of collectables that have been inspired by the periodic visual arts exhibitions including M.C. Escher, Constantin Xenakis and Toulouse-Lautrec.

Tue 10:00-21:00, Wed-Sat 10:00-19:00, Sun 10:00-15:00. Closed Mon. Free admission.

(annex) Wed-Sun 10:00-18:00. Closed 16/7 - 19/8. Admission fee: €6, Concessions: €3 students & over 65 y.o. Annex: Apostolou

Map G4 Metaxourgeio, Leonidou & Mylerou, +302103243023, 2103231841

Paulou 37, Thissio, +302103461981, herakleidon-art.gr

Museum of Greek Folk Art

Industrial Gas Museum

Housed in an industrial heritage building, that supplied energy and lighting in the Athens metropolitan area for 130 years. It opened its doors in 2013, the site where the Technopolis of Athens is now located, approximately 30 years after the Athens gasworks permanently closed down. Visitors have the opportunity to tour the plant’s facilities, observe the coal gas production line and discover a forgotten part of the history of Athens. The exhibits include a rich collection of photographs and archive material as well as audiovisual material, including short films and recorded interviews of factory workers and residents of the area. The collection is further enriched with items from the factory itself as well as interactive applications. It is the first industrial museum in Athens.

` Tue-Sun: 10:00-20:00. Closed Mon. Last admission: 17:00. Admission fee: €1. Map J1 Kerameikos, Pireos 100, Kerameikos, +302130109325, 2130109300, technopolis-athens.com

Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum

It was established in 1993, its permanent collection includes over 4,000 pieces of jewelry and micro sculptures from over 50 collections, designed by the museum’s founder, Ilias Lalaounis, between 1940 and 2000. Lalaounis is the country’s most 16 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

A treasure trove of Greek folk embroidery, weaving, traditional costumes and household items. The highlight is on the first floor: a reconstructed room from a house on the island of Lesvos with a series of murals by folk artist Theofilos. If you are a pompom shoes lover, (tsarouchia- traditional leather shoes) you will really enjoy your visit to the museum.

` Mon-Sun: 08:00-15:00. Closed Tue. Admission fee: €2.

Concessions: €1 students from E.U. countries, senior citizens from E.U. Free admission: Persons under 19, EU students, classical studies and Art students.

Map M10 Akropoli, 22 Panos str., Plaka, +302103229031, melt.gr

» In general, museums in Greece are cheap, with entrance fees ranging from €5-10. » It’s worth visiting the Greek National Tourism Information Office (Areopagitou 18-20, just opposite the Acropolis Museum entrance), for info on opening hours, entrance fees and events.

Museum of Ancient Agora

A small museum housed in the renovated Stoa of Attalos, within the archaeological site of the Ancient Agora. Its collection mainly consists of findings from wells, deposits, burials, workshops and sanctuaries. The highlights include art dating all the way back to the stone age, every-day life objects, and artifacts related to the Athenian democratic functions during the Classical period. It is where in 2003 the Treaty of the European Union enlargement was signed. Everyday:

08:00-20:00. Last admission: 19:30. Admission fee: €8. Concessions: €4. Free admission: EU students, persons under 18 Map K6 Monastiraki/ Thissio, Adrianou 24, +302103210185 ●

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 17

The best of Greek and International culture scene at the major art event of summer By ERO PARTSAKOULAKI

The annual celebration of the Arts, the biggest cultural event in the country is the greatest chance to enjoy ancient drama at its finest, authentic form, as well as to discover the new wave of Greek contemporary trends in theatre, music and dance. Meet two of the world’s most ancient and significant theatres as well as other important venues and feel the experience of an utterly artistic summer. More at greekfestival.gr

Photo: Stefanos

Athens Epidaurus Festival 2018

Greek National Opera - Carmen

ANCIENT GREEK DRAMA AT THE ANCIENT THEATRE OF EPIDAURUS

Prometheus Bound by Aeschylus Direction by Martha Frintzila

*With English surtitles

Electra by Sophocles Direction by Thanos Papakonstantinou, National Theatre of Greece Sophocles’ Electra calls for retribution rather than justice. Οne of the bleakest episodes in the Atreidae mythology: the revenge for Agamemnon’s murder. The main character, Electra, constantly relives the murder of her father, imploring the gods to punish his murderers. 20-21/7, 21:00

Prometheus is punished by Zeus for giving fire to humanity. In this performance, the focus is on the power of language and spoken words, reciting the text in a rhythmical and melodious manner, free of delivering an expressive dramatic performance. 3-4/8, 21:30 at Little Theatre of Ancient Epidaurus

The Frogs by Aristophanes Direction by Kostas Filippoglou

Antigone by Sophocles Direction by Konstantinos Ntellas Arguably Sophocles’ most popular tragedy, Antigone is set in Thebes, shortly after the civil war that resulted in the mutual killing of the two brothers, Eteocles and Polynices. King Creon orders Eteocles’ honourable burial. At Creon’s behest, Polynices is to remain unburied, being an enemy of Thebes. The two men’s sister, Antigone, refuses to obey the order and finally she is arrested and sentenced to death. 20-21/7, 21.30 at Little Theatre of Ancient Epidaurus

18 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

The Frogs was originally presented at the Lenaia festival in 405 B.C. Frustrated with the lack of great dramas presented in Athens, without any major tragic poets alive anymore, Dionysus descends to the Underworld to bring back to life a major poet destined to put a stop to the Polis’ downward spiral. With that in mind, Dionysus sets up a dramatic competition between Aeschylus and Euripides. Pluto is to judge the competition: the better man gets to return among the living. For Aristophanes, with his relentless satire of modern morals best exemplified in Euripides, the winner can only ever be Aeschylus. 10-11/8, 21:00

Photo: EGiorgos Kalfananolis

Vangelis Theodoropoulos - Thesmophoriazusae

Thesmophoriazusae by Aristophanes Direction by Vangelis Theodoropoulos Thesmophoriazusae, one of Aristophanes’ three “women” plays, was written in 411 B.C., at a time when Democracy was overthrown and replaced by Oligarchy. In this play, women call for political stability. A play about gender, the quest of personal identity, the right to equal civil rights, the crisis in values, law and nature. Above all, a play bursting with humour and theatricality, enabling actors to be fully present on stage as political entities. 27-28/7, 21:00

Yannis Kokkos - Oedipus at Colonus

Orestes by Euripides

Direction by Yannis Anastasakis Euripides’ Orestes was first presented in 408 B.C. A few days after killing his mother, Orestes is being relentlessly pursued by the Furies. Electra and the ill Orestes are faced with the wrath of Argos’ citizens, who wish to sentence the siblings to death. Menelaus, arriving from Argos together with Helen, is their only hope. The siblings have asked him to intervene on their behalf. Even though Menelaus promises to help Orestes, he decides against it after having a talk with his grandfather, Tyndareus. Orestes defends himself before the Ecclesia, the popular assembly, with his loyal friend, Pylades, by his side. However, he fails to change the verdict. Orestes, Electra, and Pylades decide to take revenge against Menelaus, planning to murder his wife, Helen, abduct his daughter, Hermione, and set his palace on fire. Shortly before the attempt is carried out, Apollo rescues Helen and brings about the reconciliation of the heroes. Apollo declares that Orestes’ fate, whether he is to be acquitted or sentenced, is to be decided at Areopagus, the court of the gods in Athens.

` 3-4/8, 21:00

Don’t miss out

MUSIC Carmen by Georges Bizet By the Greek National Opera The most popular French opera of all time, a symbol of love and freedom, is back at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus in a Greek National Opera production, directed by the distinguished artistic director of the Göteborg Opera Stephen Langridge. 27-29 & 31 July, 21.00 at Odeon of Herodes Atticus *With English surtitles

Photo: © GIANNI LUIGI CARNERA

Oedipus at Colonus by Sophocles Direction by Yannis Kokkos Oedipus, close to the end of his life, seeks the temple of Athena at Colonus. The Chorus attempts to drive him out. However, King Theseus pardons him and allows him to stay, both because he is a suppliant and because Oedipus promises to repay the kindness if they allow him to have Colonus as his final resting place. Creon arrives from Thebes to claim Oedipus; however, his efforts are met with resistance by Theseus and the citizens of Athens. Polynices also arrives in Athens and asks his father to take his side in the upcoming battle against Eteocles. Oedipus curses both his sons. Suddenly, Zeus’ thunder signifies that the time has come for Oedipus to meet his end. Oedipus, accompanied by Theseus, proceeds to his burying place, blessing Athens and Theseus for their hospitality. 17-18/8, 21:00

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 19

Culture

See for your yourself if Athens is indeed the “New Berlin” By ERO PARTSAKOULAKI

Konstantin Kakanias: That’s mine bitch. Do not touch. Back off (up town-down town)

Rebecca Camhi gallery (down-town) and Kalfayan galleries (up-town) present the new solo show of Konstantin Kakanias “THAT’S MINE BITCH. DO NOT TOUCH. BACK OFF (up town - down town)”. Mrs Tependris, the heroine of Konstantin Kakanias, comes to life again: she sees herself

as a sculpture starring in performances and as a warrior taking part in fierce protests with her friends. From her house in the desert, she composes stern letters to the director of the British Museum, to the CEO of the Paul Getty Museum and Trust demanding that the Parthenon Marbles and the Elgin Throne be returned to Athens. She is angry and needs the marbles back! Kakanias, with sarcasm and social critique, highlights immoral behaviour,

KONSTANTIN KAKANIAS, Rebecca Camhi gallery 20 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

allowed to persist without reaction or explanation, becomes engrained, and accepted as the norm. How much are we willing to tolerate the unjust and for how long? Until 15/9 at Rebecca Camhi gallery, 9 Leonidou Str., Metaxourgeio, +302105233049. Tue & Sat: 12.00-18.00, Wed/ Th/ F: 12.00-20.00. Also at

Kalgayan Galleries, 11 Haritos Str., Kolonaki, +302107217679. Opening Hours for June Mon&Sat: 11.00 - 15.00/ Τue-F: 11.00 - 19.00, July M: 11.00 – 15.00/ Tue-Fri: 11.00 - 19.00/ August: closed, September Mon&Sat: 11.00 - 15.00/ Tue-Fri: 11.00 - 19.00. Free admission.

George Condo at Cycladic

Τhe first major solo museum exhibition of the American artist George Condo in Greece Condo was instrumental in reviving figuration in American art, together with Jean-Michel Basquiat and Keith Haring, and Jeff Koons back in the 1980s and continues to be one of the most important American figurative sculptors and painters, with a career spanning almost 4 decades. Τhe Museum of Cycladic Art will hold within its contemporary art program the exhibition “George Condo at Cycladic”, an exhibition including painting, sculptures and drawings spanning the last 20 years of the artist’s career; not a chronological description of the work in the sense of a retrospective but rather a show representing some of the artist’s best examples of work focusing on the human figure. Until 14/10 at the Museum of Cycladic Art, 4 Neophytou Douka Str, Kolonaki, +302107228321-3, cycladic.gr. Μon/ Wen/ Fri/ Sat: 10:00-17:00, Thu:

actions and events around the book and text in media arts in the context of UNESCO’s “Athens 2018, World Book Capital”. #TextMe was an original concept by Atopos artistic director Vassilis Zidianakis who invited Antigoni Tsagkaropoulou to design and implement an unusual library / visual exhibition, Fluffy Library. The project’s hybrid nature combines different functions: it creates a multi-sensorial visual experience, while it also prompts readership as it functions as an open library. Until 23/4/2019 at Atopos cvc, 72 Salaminos Str., Metaxourgeio, +302108838151, atopos.gr/textme_fluffylibrary. Wen/ Thu/ F 12:00-18:00 (contact them for the weekends).

Free admission.

10:00-20:00, Sun: 11:00-17:00, Tue & August 15: closed. Guided tours: every Wed at 11.00 (in English). Tickets: €7.

Photographs of Joan Leigh Fermor: Artist and Lover

George Condo at Cycladic, Museum of Cycladic Art

Joan and Paddy Leigh Fermor were united in a pact of liberty – sharing their lives, mostly in Greece, as lovers and friends. As photographer and writer, they were also artists of equal stature. Joan was a restless rebel when she took brilliant images of the London Blitz as a symbol of all that she would be leaving behind. She met Paddy in Cairo in 1944 and soon he was following her to Athens. They travelled all over Greece before settling in the Peloponnese – in the beautiful house they built at Kardamyli and bequeathed to the Benaki Museum. In a new book and exhibition, Ian Collins and Olivia Stewart pay tribute to an elusive figure whose art is a revelation. Until 21/10 at the Benaki Museum of Greek Culture, 1 Koumbari St. & Vas. Sofias Ave., Kolonaki, +302103671000, benaki.gr. Wen/ Fri: 10:00 - 18:00, Thu/ Sat: 10:00 - 00:00,

Sun: 10:00 - 16:00. Tickets: €7.

When Pictures Paint a Thousand Words

Book Illustrations by Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghikas from the Benaki Museum Collections Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghikas began to work regularly with book illustrations from the 1930s until the 1990s. He created covers and frontispieces for poetic collections, novels and literary magazines, while he illustrated fully the Odyssey by Nikos Kazantzakis, The Poems, by C. P. Cavafy, Daphnis and Chloe by Longus and Lysistrata by Aristophanes. In most cases, he supervised the design of the entire publication himself and meticulously studied each image to be sure it would reflect the style of the text or poem. Until 31/12 at Athens International Airport Eleftherios Venize-

los – Departures, entrance 3/ mezzanine. Free admission.

#TEXTME

A project combining the logic of a large-scale installation with plush sculptures and furry costumes ATOPOS cvc inaugurates, #TextMe project, a year of

Joan Leigh Fermor, The Benaki Museum of Greek Culture

The Materiality of the Painting Event The Cultural, Sports and Youth Organization of the City of Athens presents the Painting Exhibition “The Materiality of the Painting Event”, whose title is inspired by an important phrase used by Foucault during his speech at the Collège de France, 1971 (The Order of Discourse). The exhibition presents works by twenty major modern European painters, covering a personal and original approach to painting, within the bounds of abstraction, through the relationship of painting with space, gesture, material and materiality. Most of the ten non-Greek painters have visited, worked and exhibited many times in our country, while most of the ten Greeks have either lived in many European cities or are currently living abroad. Until 30/9 at the Athens Municipality Arts Center, Vas. Sofias Ave. - Parko Eleftherias, +302107224028. Mon-Sat: 10.00-21.00/ Sun: 10.00-14.00. Free admission. ●

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 21

Stroll the neighbourhoods of Athens The most interesting neighbourhoods of Athens surround the city centre. You’ll find an area for every taste, creative, artistic, urban, traditional or mainstream. By ELIZA SYNADINOU - Photo: ELEFTHERIA TZEIRANI @tzeirani.rita

Monastiraki Thissio

A very popular tourist destination. Τhose two neighborhoods are both hype and traditional, combining the casual popular bars with sites of historical interest. Monastiraki is the flea market neighborhood in the old quarters of the city of Athens

22 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

and one of the principal shopping districts in Athens. Thissio is equally popular with its two pedestrian roads, Apostolou Pavlou and Dionysiou Areopagitou being ideal for a romantic promenade.

Plaka

Must see district, maybe the

most beautiful and traditional in Athens. It is built in the area immediately surrounding the Hill of Acropolis and is the foremost tourist destination. Picturesque area with small houses and many cafés, almost entirely pedestrianised-thus not accessible by car. Bordered by the Acropolis, Amalias and Mitropoleos st. ▶

Monastiraki Square CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 23

Historic centre

Athens moves around the city centre a lot, so its historic centre is busy during the day. Corporate headquarters and many art hubs are found there. To fully experience it you have to walk and gaze at its numerous landmarks and neoclassical buildings. Bordered by Stadiou, Athinas & Ermou St., Acropolis, Amalias & Mitropoleos St.

Kolonaki

Traditionally upper class area, both residential and commercial. Itâ€™s considered to be one of the richest areas in Athens, and is 24 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

also a trendy hot spot for politicians, journalists and trendsetters. Bordered by Vassilissis Sofias, Akadimias St. and Lycabettus Hill.

Exarchia

Traditionally a hothouse for intellectuals, radicals, artists, youngsters, musicians and bohemian types. A very special, leftish neighbourhood, not very clean but urban, lively, youthridden- it is flooded with vintage and second-hand stores, record stores, eateries and inexpensive hotels. Bordered by Asklipiou, Akadimias and Patission st. (October 28th)

Piraeus

The necessary spot before visiting the islands, Pireus also embodies a large urban legacy. Its habitants consider themselves living in a completely different city than Athens. Foreign visitors and locals alike enjoy their fish and coffee by the sea here in the romantic little port of Mikrolimano. (Take the green metro line to the south - terminal station)

Glyfada

Trendy summer destination, coastal, roughly 14 km south of the city centre. Posh neighbourhood,

Photo: THANASSIS KARATZAS

An area in Northern Athens which used to be a summer-house residential area, is now one of the wealthiest neighbourhoods of Athens. Replete with cycling lanes, a pedestrianised centre, impressive mansions, huge shopping centres and parks. (Take the green metro line to the north - terminal station) â—?

Photo: CHRISTOS KEDRAS

Photo: @leonard_redmond

Kifissia

Photo: KONSTANTINOS KARATHANOS @con_sequences

which combines beaches, nightlife and shopping. The area also features luxury hotels and four marinas fully equipped for every type of yacht. (Take the tram to Voula from Syntagma sq.)

Photo: MARINA VERNIKOS

Glyfada

When walking around the city, donâ€™t hesitate to ask a local for advise. Whether you are looking for a cool restaurant or your way to the metro station, Greeks are very eager to give directions.

Kolonaki

Historic centre

Kifissia

Palaio Faliro CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 25

Stay Cool & Find your Park Urban spots for breaths of fresh air By ERO PARTSAKOULAKI, Elisa Sinadinou Photo: Yiorgis Yerolymbos

eyond all expectations, Athens has many fine parks and green areas, you will be surprised by both their size and beauty. Press pause on your intense sightseeing and enjoy secret gardens, hills and many outdoor spaces where green is the only colour around. Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre (SNFCC)

26 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

The National Garden There was a time when Greece had its own Royal family. Before doing some research in Greek History, take the time to visit the National Garden, designed and created by Queen Amalia in the 19th century. An earthy heaven right in the centre of Athens with meandering bench-laden paths, cool trees and popular ponds, that make it a favourite stroll for everyone. For the garden

aficionados, there is also a Botanical Museum, while for the little ones (or those young at heart), there is a Childrensâ€™ Museum. Map L12 Syntagma

Zappeion Garden

The place where most Athenians spent their childhood Sundays. Situated right next to the National Garden, it is actually an extension, Zappeion Garden generously provides a serene

SNFCC

One of most incredible parks of Athens. Linked by an ecological concept, physical topography and functionality to the National Library of Greece and the Greek National Opera, the Stavros Niarchos Park is a vital green space, a breath of life for Athens and an important addition to a city with the lowest per capita green space in Europe. A respite from urban concrete, the Park provides opportunities for learning, recreation, rest, and new experiences, all summer long! Find out more at www.snfcc.org (Admission free)

getaway from the hustle and bustle. Take a walk among wonderfully crafted statues, enjoy hidden green corners and don’t miss out on the acclaimed café and restaurant as you move further along its paths. Map N11 Syntagma

Botanical Garden Diomidous Gardens A designated wildlife sanctuary with an overwhelming

abundance of flora (more than 3,000 varieties), extending over a vast area of 1,800 hectares in Athens’s western suburbs. Overseeing Korydallos, Dafni and Agia Varvara regions, the Botanical Garden offers a lovely, invigorating scenic stroll. Within its expansive serene grounds, you can find numerous kinds of plants, some of which are exceedingly rare, as well as a dedicated botanic section with

pharmaceutical plants. Many university students choose this garden for their summer concerts. 08:00-20:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00. Iera Odos 403, Votanikos

Lycabettus Hill

If you choose to get there on foot, reaching the top can turn into quite an adventure. The strenuous but rewarding walk to the summit via the stairs was built by the “Union of Forest * CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 27

Photo: ΤHANASSIS KARATZAS

The National Garden

Photo: ΤHANASSIS KARATZAS

Parko Eleutherias

28 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

Friends” between 1908 and 1918. Walking along the existing path, you will take breaths of fresh air whilst passing under the pine trees on the hillside, an ideal habitat for dozens of bird species. If walking is not your thing, there is always the option of the funicular railway or even the car. Park somewhere over the hill or enjoy the excellent views of the entire city and the Saronic Gulf after your short funicular ride. The most popular attraction of Lycabettus is the small gleaming-white picturesque church of Saint George. Get there and find yourself in one of the most popular spots on postcards of Athens! Map F16 Evangelismos

Pedion tou Areos

Recently renovated and despite its infamous side, Pedion tou Areos is worth a visit as it is a historical park, one of the oldest in Athens. Located within easy walking distance from the National Archaeological Museum, it’s a good choice for a walk in the daytime, but not as attractive after dark. Its expansive tree-lined vistas are excellent for a pleasant stroll while admiring the numerous impressive statues of Greek heroes of the War of Independence. Map A11

Philopappou Hill

A trip straight back to the ancient times. Visit one of the most beautiful hills of Athens, close to the Acropolis, step on the rocks where in the past (since the 5th century B.C.) great Greek statemen, generals and orators –such as Themistocles, Aristides, Pericles and Demosthenes– used to address the public. Known at the time as the Hill of the Muses, the hill forms a green area south west of the Acropolis with great views to the Parthenon, the city and the Aegean Sea that surrounds Attica. In 115 A.D. a monument dedicated to

the exiled Roman Prince Gaius Julius Antichus Philopappos of Commagene was erected on top of the hill, giving it its current name “Philopappos”. Map O5 Akropoli

Akademia Platonos

A significant cultural centre of Athens in ancient times, AkademiaPlatonos or “Plato’s Academy” is the place where philosopher Plato taught his disciples back in the 5th century B.C. These days, it is an oasis of green filled with monuments, ideal for strolls and picnics. It is a favourite among youngsters who often gather there for parties, feasts and festivities. It also houses the “Cooperative Café”, a hangout for more alternative crowds, offering mezedes and rakomelo. Map E2

Garden of the Athens Concert Hall (Megaron)

Culture found its ultimate shelter right on its doorstep. Megaron Concert Hall is among the best cultural places in the country and its garden is the perfect place to enjoy art. An oasis of green in the heart of the city, it hosts many cultural events in the summer, and enjoying a concert while lying on its grass is a mustdo. Map E21 Megaro Moussikis, Vasilissis Sofias& Kokkali

Dexameni

All day restaurant-café, the place to be if you want to chill while watching posh passers-by. This café is one of the oldest hangouts of the Greek intellectual scene. Mon-Sun 10:00-01:00. Map I15 Evangelismos, Dexamenis Sq, Kolonaki, +302107224609

Parko Eleftherias

A romantic restaurant-café, offering delicious modern Greek cuisine along with cocktails. One of the city’s greenest meeting points. Mon-Sun 10:00-01:30. Map H21 Megaro Moussikis, Vasilissis Sofias, Kolonaki, +302107223784 ●

Run

5 routes to jog in the city By Elisa Sinadinou

Bear in mind that in Athens, during the summer, the temperature rises well above 30°. Consider running before 10:00 or after 20:00.

01 National Garden

The National Garden (ex Royal Garden): The temperature is nearly 5°C lower than the rest of the city, the vast area full of trees, lakes, flowers, is the ideal city running route. It is open from dusk until dawn and has 4 main entrances – LeoforosAmalias, Vasilissis Sofias Avenue, Herodou Attikou Street, Zappeion.

02 Imittos Mountain

Breathtaking view of the city and Piraeus and peace of mind. You can access Imittos from Kaissariani.

03 Syggrou Forest

If you stay in Northern Athens, try Syggrou Forest, a quiet place where a lot of people walk their dogs off leash. It is open from sunrise to sunset each day. Its main entrance is located in Kifissias Avenue.

04 Dionissiou Aeropagitou Street

For a run combined with sightseeing, and if you are fit enough for an uphill run, try DionissiouAeropagitou Street. You can run all the way up to the Acropolis, or continue straight toApostolou Pavlou street and end up in the famous neighbourhood of Thissio.

05 Faliro

For a run with a view to sea, try the coastline route. Take the tram towards Faliro, pick a stop that suits you and... start jogging.

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 29

Life is a Beach

Athens boasts a long amazing coastline, the famous Athens Riviera, with countless beaches for every taste By ero Partsakoulaki - Photo: MARINA VERNIKOS

f you haven’t planned to visit one of the beautiful Greek islands you can enjoy the sun and the crystal clear waters of Athens. The access is very easy by tram or a short drive. In 30-40 minutes you ‘ll find yourself working on your suntan and enjoying a relaxing day far from the city’s buzz. If you are wondering where to swim just follow the list and our tips to find what best suits you.

Free Access beaches Alepochori (66 km)

An ideal beach where you can find crystal clear water and a beautiful sunset. Also the beach includes volley ball courts, beach bars and fish-taverns. If someone want to spend more than one day there is an organized camping as well.

Edem (Paleo Faliro) (9 km)

A sandy beach very close to the centre of Athens. Usually pretty crowded, so rush hours are to be avoided. Close to Flisvos beach, the easiest way to get there is by taking the Tram to the stop “Edem”. 30 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

Erotospilia (43 km)

You can enjoy the sea and the sun while relaxing on a sunbed in the shade from the trees or an umbrella. It’s worth visiting as it is one of the most popular beaches in Porto Rafti and very close to Athens city centre. During weekends it is overcrowded. There is also a kiosk nearby for water and basic food supplies.

Limanakia Vouliagmenis (20 km)

The name of the beach means in Greek “small ports”. It is absolutely the best place to relax. If you get there before 11:00 you’ll probably be lucky enough to find a nice spot. The water is clean and a bit cold. Favorite location for nudists and divers. Leave your towel on the

Uploa your fa d vou momen rite instagr ts on am u the has sing h #athen tag svoice

rocks surrounding the turquoise natural pools and jump straight into the water. You can just park your car on the side of the road.

Megalo Kavouri (17km)

An ideal spot with really clean water and a nice view. The beach is surrounded by many café’s and taverns where you can enjoy quality food and drinks. It is heavily crowded during weekends. However, it is a great choice for chilling or a nice walk by the sea in the evening.

Psatha (66 km)

Ideal beach for a short escape from Athens, big enough to accomodate everyone. With two and a half km of

coastline, it is visibly less crowded than the nearby, organized Alepochori. With a view to the Corinthian gulf and crystal clear waters, the landscape is great and you can even set up your tent for the night. To get there take the road to Megara and follow the signs to Alepochori.

Varnava (35 km)

A beautiful and clean beach located at the Evian gulf. Get to the village named “Varnava” in the East of Attica region and drive 12 more km to the beach. On the way to the coast you will pass many bays but it’s preferable to choose among those on your right. If you feel like eating something there are a few family * tavernas in the area. CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 31

Organised Beaches Asteras Glyfadas (20 km)

A luxury complex including many facilities to rest and enjoy your weekend or just a day. It features 3 bars, children facilities, and a capacity of over 5,000 people. Right on the beach, in Balux Cafe-Seaside, you can relax by the sea or enjoy a dish of Polynesian cuisine. Bus line 122 from Elliniko metro station or

Bus A2 from Acadimias Str. Entrance fee: €4 weekdays and €6 on weekends (deckchairs and umbrellas included). Half price for children 4-12 years old. +302108941620,

Asteras Vouliagmenis (20 km)

Astir beach, as they call it, is one of the best beaches on the Athenian Riviera. A luxury spot where you can definitely enjoy your swim. Favoured by celebrities, emerging stars and their fans, this beach is definitely the most glamorous and an Athenian elite favourite. It has been visited, among others, by Brigitte Bardot and Joan Collins.

` Bus line 122 from Elliniko metro station. Entrance fee:

€18 weekdays, €28 weekends, free admission for children under 5, half price for those between the ages of 5 to 12. Free facilities include umbrellas, deckchairs, locker rooms, showers with hot water and Internet access. The pool is a good alternative. Caretaker service for little children provided upon request. +302108901694

Grand Beach Lagonissi (35 km)

A unique beach with a spectacular view and luxurious facilities. Enjoy the pool, the floating bar, the beach bar, the restaurants as well as facilities for people with disabilities in a relaxed environment. Entrance fee €15 week-

bus

You can see all the bus schedules at oasa.gr or call 1185

(Mon-Fri 06:30-22:30, Sat-Sun 07:30-22:30) tram

The most relaxed way to get to the coastline. Voula is the terminal station (“Asklipio Voulas”), and it departs from Syntagma. (stasy.gr)

KTEL buses

They depart from Mavromateon str. Pedion tou Areos and go all the way to Rafina and Sounio.

(for Athens-Sounio call +302108808081 and for Athens-Rafina +302108808082).

32 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

Don’t miss

Vouliagmeni beach (20 km)

Τhe opportunity to

One of the most popular destinations, is the best organized beach located just a heartbeat away from Athens’s centre and has a coastline of 650 meters. Located almost 20 km southeast of the center, just off Poseidonos Avenue, it offers beach umbrellas and sun-beds, a variety of sport activities (tennis, basketball, volleyball and racquetball) and a mini playground. Entrance fee is €4

asterascomplex.com

How to get there

days, €25 weekends. The price includes umbrellas and decks. Parking costs €6 on weekdays and €12 on the weekend. +302291076000, lagonissiresort.gr

per person weekdays and €5 weekends. The reduced fee is €3 on weekdays and €4 on weekends. Reduced fees apply for students 6 to 18 and big families (relative documentation required).

Vouliagmeni Lake (21 km)

An ideal place to relax and enjoy the therapeutic qualities of its water. The temperature is always between 22 to 29°C, so devoted patrons come for morning-long immersions all year-round. There is also a restaurant and a romantic café.

` Entrance fee €10 weekdays, €11 weekends. +302108962237, limnivouliagmenis.gr

discover the most beautiful secret of the city. Book the luxurious catamaran of Sailing Athens for a morning or sunset semi-private or private half-day cruise, and a full-day private cruise, up to ten persons. The cruises include historical narrations across the Athenian coastline, sailing, swimming, snorkeling in crystal blue waters and an amazing gastronomic experience.

` sailingathens.com +302155259494

Yabanaki (27 km)

Ideal water park for families, includes waterslides, water games, restaurants and beach bars. The parking is free. Easy access.

` Entrance fee €5 weekdays, €6 weekends, €3,50 for

students, senior citizens and children aged 6-12. Free admission for children under 6. On weekdays regular deckchairs are free of charge, weekends you have to pay €10/ set. +302108972414, yabanaki.gr ●

Naked in the sun Limanakia Vouliagmenis (20 km)

The third cove is the favorite spot for nudists. Keep in mind that on your way back you’ll have to hike on rocks.

Legrena (second beach, 64 km)

If you are looking for a clean but no facilities beach you are at the right place. There are many taverns and cafés around where you can enjoy a fresh meal or an iced coffee by the sea. Really crowded during weekends. To get here, turn left after the KAPE sign, shortly before the village of “Legrena”. Nudists prefer the second beach, next to the big one just pass the small rocks. Along the Athens-Sounio coastal road, there are dozens of small coves ideal for all swimming preferences. Bring with you water or food as there are no kiosks in the area.

Ramnounta (64 km)

The ideal beach for relaxation as it is isolated and not organized. To get there, head east to Gramatiko and just before the local village turn right following the sign “Limnonas”. Be brave enough to continue the journey and go ahead as soon as you see the “Sesi” sign. At this point turn right to the steep downhill.

❱❱ The beaches of Attica are very popular among the locals and thus can be very crowded at times: better to visit them during weekdays and early hours before noon. ❱❱ Don’t expect to find a bar or a canteen everywhere: be prepared and bring with you a bottle of water, towels and some snacks.

❱❱ In Greece, it’s very usual to encounter people playing “raketes”, a beach game similar to tennis. The sound of the ball hitting the racket can be very disturbing so if you spot them upon your arrival and you prefer a more quiet day, try the end of the beach which is usually less crowded.

• Sailing in Athens Riviera • All inclusive cruise • Complimentary transfer • Fine hellenic cuisine • Swimming & snorkeling

www.sailingathens.com • +30.2155259494 or +1.877.SAIL210 • info@sailingathens.com

How much of a “camper” are you? By eleni Bezirianoglou

earing you are getting away from the luxuries of your life, the outdoors makes you a little nervous. The first time you go camping, you’ll probably be carrying all the useless and eventually the “wrong” stuff with you, while the ones you really need are left… behind, and buying what you need on the spot is such a waste of money. The second time you’ll get better organized; however, again, there will be something written on your list but never brought along. You’ll borrow from your neighbors at the campground with whom you’ll become friends and make plans for your next camping experience together. The third time you go camping you won’t even care if you have everything you need or not, because you have finally “mastered” the true meaning of outdoors living. Camping is about freedom and the simplicity of life, it is about getting acquainted with nature, it is the destination and your fellow companions. And it is you. Amorgos: At Katapola, 2285071277, www.kastanisgroup.gr/campingkastanis, tents, huts and rooms accommodations. At Aegiali 2285073500, www.aegialicamping.gr, perfect for hanging out and partying with friends. Antiparos: Camping Antiparos, 2284061221, www.camping-antiparos.gr, only 10 minutes away from the center of the island. Astypalea: Marmari 2243061900, 34 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

www.astypalaiacamping.gr, shady spots, great food at the restaurant. Gythion: Camping Gythion Bay, 2733022522, www.gythiocamping.gr, with a pool, sundeds and umbrellas, restaurant, great cocktails on the sandy beach of Mavrovounio. Elafonisos: Simos 2734022672, www. simoscamping.gr, the perfect escape just 50 meters from the world famous beach of Elafonisos, Simos beach. Evia: Club Agia Anna, 2227097250, www.clubagiaanna.gr, an oasis 2,5 hours away from Athens, in the woods and just a minutes’ walk to the magical beach of Agia Anna. Studio apartments, bungalows, yurts, cabanas, tents. Ilia: Palouki, 2622024942, www.campingpalouki.gr, offering home-made cooking, yoga and pilates sessions and thai massage. Thasos: Golden, 2593061472, www. camping-goldenbeach.gr, 3km from the village of Skala. Ierapetra: Camping Koutsounari, 2842061213, www.camping-koutsounari.gr Ios: Far Out, Mylopotas, 2286091468,

AkrAt AtA At tA BeAch A Ach cAmping mping

If a comfortable and relaxing summer holiday is what you're after, if you're seeking crystal waters and picturesque beaches, if you want all the comforts of home, friendly service and excellent cuisine- then Akrata Beach Camping is the place for you. Situated in the northern Peloponnese, it is within range of all the most spectacular archaelogical sites in the country. Porovitsis' beach, Akrata,

+302696031988, www.akrata-beachcamping.gr

www.faroutclub.com/gr/camping Kythira: Kapsali, 2736031580, www. kythera.gr/wheretostay/camping-kapsali Larisa: Stomio, 2495350210, campingstomio.gr Lefkada: Vassiliki, 2495350210, campingstomio.gr Limnos: Surf Camp, Keros,www. surfclubkeros.gr, perfect for windsurfing and kitesurfing Messinia: Camping Erodios, Yavola, 2723023269, www.erodioss.gr Milos: Ahivadolimni, 2287031410, www.miloscamping.gr Mykonos: Paradise Beach Resort, 2289022852, www.paradisemykonos.com Naxos: Plaka Beach, 2285042700, www.plakacamping.gr Nafplio: Kastraki, 2752059386, www. kastrakicamping.gr Chania: Grammeno Camping, Paleohora, 2823042125, www.grammenocamping.gr Paros: Santa Maria, 2284052491, www. surfbeach.gr Pelio: Papa Nero, 2426031319, www. campingpapanero.com Samothraki: Municipal Camping, 2551098291, 2551098244, www. samothraki.gr Santorini: Santorini Camping, 2286022944, www.santorinicamping.gr Serifos: Coralli, Livadakia, 2281051500, www.coralli.gr Arkadia: Tyros Arkadias, Zaritsi 2757041429, www.campingzaritsi.gr Finikounda: Thines Camping, 2723071200, www.camping-peloponnese.com Folegandros: Livadi, 2286041478 Halkidiki: Sarti, Armenistis Camping 2375091487, www.armenistis. com.gr • Thalatta Kalamitsi village camp 2375041410, www.thalattacamp.gr ●

Akrata Beach Camping

Comfortable, relaxing holidays by the sea If a comfortable and relaxing summer holiday is what you’re after, if you want to leave your worries and daily routine behind, if you’re seeking crystal waters and picturesque beaches, pleasant natural surroundings and spacious tent pinches, if you insist on spotless hygienic facilities, all the comforts of home, friendly service and excellent cuisine- then AKRATA BEACH CAMPING is the place for you. It is situated in the northern Peloponnese not far from Athens, but within range of all the most spectacular archaelogical sites in the country. The ruins of Delphi, the Argolid, Corinth and Olympia are all easily accessible. You can make the marvelous trip by funicular railway up to the mountain from Diakofto to Kalavryta, and you can enjoy all thw sports you can think of. They are at your service to make your holidays there something you’ll never forget. Porovitsis’ beach, Akrata, +302696031988, www.akrata-beach-camping.gr

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 35

Graffito

Shopping at Graffito is a unique experience. Individually-selected items from around the globe: furniture, decorative objects, cutting-edge clothing and accessories, beauty products, create the true essence of contemporary urban living and make Graffito a serene cosmopolitan haven for savvy shoppers. You could as well take a break from your lingering around the store at Graffito’s health bar and restaurant, where you’ll be treated with excellent coffee varieties, freshly squeezed juices and delicious gluten, sugar and lactose free desserts and snacks! Panepistimio, Solonos 34, Kolonaki, +32103608936, graffito.gr

Shopping Athenian style

Whatever your shopping tastes and needs, in Athens you’ll find everything money can buy. From big shopping malls to small boutique shops, get ready to indulge yourself and take advantage of the summer sales until the end of August. By eleni Bezirianoglou - Photo: thanassis karatzas 36 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

International Brands Balenciaga

Bright, minimal boutique with small wonders. Map I13 Evangelismos, Skoufa 17, Kolonaki, +302107290151

Enny Di Monaco

Mugler, Louboutin, Nina Ricci, Zac Posen... shall we say more? Map J 15 Evangelismos, Herodotou 23, Kolonaki, +302107290805/ Tria Pigadia, Mykonos, +302289077100

Free Shop

Perfect T-shirts, unique jewellery and accessories. A modern “Colette”. Map I13 Panepistimio, Skoufa 17, +302103616200

Gucci

Indulge yourself. Don’t forget the Jackie ’O purse. Map I13 Evangelismos, Tsakalof 27, Kolonaki, +302103602519

Hermès

Endless window shopping. Arty displays. Hermès. Map I13 Panepistimio, City Link, Voukourestiou 1, Kolonaki, +302103233715

Linea Piu

Greek Rue Cambon. Chanel, Blumarine, Galliano, Tom Ford. All chosen carefully. Map K13 Panepistimio, Sekeri 6, Kolonaki, +302103606125, lineapiu.gr

Louis Vuitton Style does matter and this is the real thing. Map I13 Panepistimio, Voukourestiou 19, Kolonaki, +302103613938

Luisa

Designer names from Lanvin and Chloé to Cavalli and Stella McCartney. Not forgetting Yves Saint Laurent, Manolo Blahnik, Pucci and Jean Paul Gaultier. Map I13 Panepistimio, Skoufa 15, Kolonaki, +302103635600, luisa.gr

Prada

The Devil wears them and here you too can purchase a small “devilish” piece. Then you might want to change your name to Meryl. Map I13 Panepistimio, Voukourestiou 17, Kolonaki, +302103388386

Sotris

Glamorous clothes from famous

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 37

exclusive brands like Topshop, Dries Van Noten, Marni. Vintage pieces can be found at the first address. Map I13 Panepistimio, Voukourestiou 41 & Tsakalof, Kolonaki, +302103610662/ Golden Hall, 1st floor, sotris.gr

in downtown Athens. Mavromihali 21, Exarheia, Athens, +306983908096, www.kimale.co

Basic Tips sAles

Tezenis

Cosmopolitan stores with youthful collections of underwear, beachwear and nightwear, enhanced every week with new items. For women, men and kids. Map i8 Panepistimio, Stadiou 28, +302103225469

Trussardi Jeans

All jeans and all luxurious accessories branded with the famous greyhound. Map J13 Syntagma, Solonos 1, Kolonaki, +302103641429

Greek DesiGners Atelier Dassios

The only Greek designer with such a popular appeal in cities like St.Tropez, Tokyo, Capri, Milan, New York, Paris, Florence. Unique creations of authentic handmade materials from the Middle East, leather, fabric and silk. Necessary to book an appointment. Map K16 Syntagma, Vas. Sofias 35, Kolonaki, +302109573582, dassios.com

Deux Hommes

The studio and showroom of Grigoris Triantafyllou and Dimitris Alexakis is the hottest place to find a limited prêt-àporter and the current collection of the unbeatable duo. Map J13 Panepistimio, Kanari 18, Kolonaki, +302103614155, deuxhommes.gr

kimalé

Kimalé is an innovative fashion brand that celebrates the “joie de vivre” of the global riviera. Established by Irène Mamfredos, a French designer, Kimalé merges bold African fabrics with clean and contemporary silhouettes. Limited edition clothes, jewelry and home accessories which playfully navigate between the colorful palette of African culture and the minimal side of contemporary fashion. Every item is made with love and craftsmanship 38 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

The official sales periods are mid-January to mid-February and mid-July until the end of August.

WHere To sHoP

Downtown is the place to be, whether you are looking for brand names or small vintage shops and second-hand stores. Plaka, the foremost tourist area, is the standard place to buy memorabilia. Nearby, Monastiraki is home to a famous Athenian flea market. Visitors will lose themselves in a huge variety of shops that appeal to aficionados of records, jewellery, clothes, shoes and all things vintage. This is an area in which haggling is accepted by the playful and friendly shop owners. Between Monastiraki sq. and Omonia sq, one comes across the Athens Central Market, a good place to buy some local herbs. Ermou str. is by far the most celebrated shopping street: a pedestrian street with large windows, and a great variety of goodies, from clothes and jewellery to shoes and gifts. But when it comes to expensive brand shopping, Kolonaki is the perfect place to be. Luxury clothing, high prices and impeccably dressed customers are the norm here.

Parthenis

Founder Dimitris Parthenis established his first store in Athens in 1970. Today, with his daughter Orsalia Parthenis at the creative helm, the identity remains timeless with a genderbending, minimal feel, and elegant Greek aesthetic. Premium basics in high quality fabrics, interspersed with statement pieces, create wardrobe staples for a refined and elevated everyday look. Parthenis collections are designed and produced in Athens, Greece. 20 Dimokritou & Tsakalof St, Athens, 2103633158, orsalia-parthenis.gr

sophie Deloudi

Sophie Deloudi’s collections reflect her values and principles on design and fashion: high quality, perfect lining, impeccable fitting, flawless finishing, clean shapes and strong discrete femininity. Elaborated, edged silhouettes and insinuated sensuousness integrate the pieces destined to dress confident and elegant women on their way to the beach. Its eras’ aura combines classic design heritage of the past with a synchronous point of view. Attica City Link, Panepistimiou 9, Athens, 2111802600, sophiedeloudi.gr

Yiorgos eleftheriades space (Flagship store)

Yiorgos Eleftheriades constructs in a mesmerizing way intellectual sartorial creations in graceful silhouettes whose dynamic nature consistently maintain balance together with fluidity. For many years, he has been cooperating with some of Except for the tourist hotspots, like Plaka, the most important most shops are closed on Sundays and National directors and actors/ actresses in Greece. The Holidays, with the exception of flower shops, brand’s collections have patisseries, liquor stores and the like. been showcased in Official business opening hours are Athens, Milan, Paris and 09:00-21:00 on weekdays (09:00-20:00 Barcelona. on Sat). However, many smaller businesses Map I14 Evangelismos, Tsakalof 29 keep the older working hours (closed and Voukourestiou, Kolonaki, after 15:00 on Mon, Wed, Sat +302103616272, yiorgoseleftheriades.gr

Opening HOurs!

and between 14:30 and 17:30 on Tue, Thu, Fri).

Wear the greek summer in a Kashish Kaftan

Itâ€™s the light breezy fabric of indian cotton and the unique prints designed by Kelly Fotopoulou, that will make you dream of stylish strolls on the greek islands. Each one, custom made piece of Kashish Athens is crafted uniquely for the brand in India and cotton printed with the ancient technique of hand wooden block print. This technique combines old traditional Indian patterns with old and modern Greek motives in truly unique clothes, pareos, kaftans and accessories. You can find your favorite in www.kashish.gr, in more than 100 stores in Greece and on their brand new store on the greek island of Hydra.

Kashish Athens: Silanionos 4, Ano Petralona , +302114000723, www.kashish.gr, Fb: kashishathens, Insta: kashish_athens

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 39

CaLZeDonIa

Authentic, trendy and fashionable socks and beachwear for women, men and kids, in a highly competitive quality / price ratio. Map K8 Syntagma, Stadiou 21, +302106840005/ Solonos 17, +302103605775

Lemisios is a lovely store that opened in the heart of Athens in 1912. Here, you can have the shoes of yours dreams thanks to their custom-made orders. You will also find high quality leather sandals and ballet flats better than Repettos! Lemisios shoes are not only exceptional, but a real fashion statement. 6 Likavittou Str., Athens, 2103611161, fb: lemisios shoes Since 1912

Jewellery Bvlgari

A “B.zero1” ring or an “Assioma” watch are the must-have items, if you want to invest in Bulgari. Map I 13 Panepistimio, Voukourestiou 8, Kolonaki (Watches), +302103711011/ Panepistimiou 7, Kolonaki, +302111802600, bulgari.com

Zeus + Δione

This is the Greek Maison Hermes. Exeptionally tasteful clothes and accessories based on refined craftsmanship. Leather sandals, handbags and gold jewellery in wonderful designs made with high quality exclusivelly Greek materials. If you’re going to take home one quality souvenir from Athens, then go for this brand. Attica - Golden Hall: Kifissias 37A, 2111814000. Bettina: Anagnostopoulou 29, Kolonaki, +302103392094

Greek DesiGn Grecian Chic

Bold graphic style in bright colors and designs that transmit Greek culture, all in wonderful

silk scarves by Elena Zournatzi and her brand, Grecian Chic. Find them in Zina Fragi boutique. Agg. Metaxa 33, Glyfada, +302108985039

i-D concept store

A bright world of items unfolds in front of those who love style and modern aesthetics. Amazing jewelry, created by the most famous Greek and foreign designers, but also costume jewelry (these pieces that spice up your everyday outfits). Don’t miss out on the bags: the big collection includes avant garde designs and more casual suggestions for every taste. Map J13 Evangelismos, 12 Kanari Street, Kolonaki, +302103221801

Lemisios Shoes

KaShISh athenS

Exotic resort wear for unique summer appearances. Every piece of the collection is handmade in India, exclusively for the Greek brand, while the patterns are printed on the clothes with the ancient technique of hand wooden block print. Find your favourite at www.kashish.gr, in more than 100 stores in Greece and at their brand-new store in Hydra island. Kashish Athens, Silianionos 4, Ano Petralona, 2114000723, www.kashish.gr, Fb: kashishathens, Insta: kashish_athens

40 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

Cartier

You don’t have to be extra loaded to own a Cartier. This is where you can find the young collection “Entrelaces”, whose rings don’t cost much, as well as the ultimate “Love” bracelets and rock “Marcello” bags. Map I13 Panepistimio, City Link, Voukourestiou 7, Kolonaki, +302103313600, cartier.com

Fanourakis

Greek designer Lina Fanouraki’s jewellery is ultimately Greek spirited but does not resemble at all the traditional ancient, like necklaces and wreaths. Using the prime materials of high-end goldsmithery, her work is modern and humorous but always classy. Map J15 Evangelismos, Patriarchou Ioakim 23, Kolonaki, +302107211762

Folli Follie

Affordable luxury in fashion jewellery, watches and accessories. A global brand. Map K10 Syntagma, Ermou 18, Syntagma, +302103230729, follifollie.gr

Ileana Makri Store

Ileana Makri is a well-known Greek jewelry designer. Her fine designs are inspired by a multitude of symbols that exist in popular Greek culture and their meanings, such as the beads that protect of the “evil eye”, the monks’ worry beads, iridescent beetles and bugs of the Greek nature, the sea urchin and more. Map J 16 Evangelismos, Patriarchou Ioakeim

13-15, +302107217982, ileanamakri.com

Kessaris

Diamonds and blues… Those aren’t icebergs – they’re diamond rings! Salesmen can be quite snobbish, but the quality is great. You’ll know the owner by his red glasses. Map I13 Panepistimio, Panepistimiou 5 & 7, +302103711010, kessaris.gr

YoUth LAB.

Advanced Dry Oil 3 in 1 -for face, body and hair- that offers intensive and long-lasting moisturisation, enhancing the skin's resilience, nourishes and protects against free radicals and premature aging. It consists of a mixture of herbal oils and fat-soluble actives that ensure a rich effect, without leaving greasy. Its fragrance composition is pleasant and distinctive, consisting of peony, cyclamen and miguet notes, while base notes include sandalwood and vanilla. www.youthlab.com

Lalaounis

The heart of the internationally recognised jewellery house is located in Kolonaki. As Ilias Lalaounis says, “every jewel has its own history”, whether it begins in Mycenae or in Byzantium. We’ve seen Charlize Theron wearing them. Map I 13 Panepistimio, Panepistimiou 6 & Voukourestiou, +302103611371, iliaslalaounis.eu/portfolio

Liana Vourakis

Liana continues to honour the founding principles of her grandfather. Her collections combine fantasy and imagination along with a certain sense of nostalgia. Map I14 Evangelismos, City-Link, Stoa Spiromiliou, Voukourestiou str., +302103311107, e: info@vourakisliana.gr

Lito - Cabinet de Curiosités

Jewels that tell stories from long travel. Thailand, Arizona, India and Egypt. A small private museum full of treasures with the Lito Karakostanoglou signature who transforms anything old into a modern rock suggestion. Map J15 Panepistimio, Irodotou 25, Kolonaki, +302107295177

swatch.com/gr_el/home.html

shoPPIng Centres Attica

360 shops in a shop. Upmarket department store, the biggest in the city. A comprehensive selection of designer wear (Armani, Burberry, Juicy Couture, Missoni, etc.), casual brands, accessories, exclusive Joe Malone and Molton Brown distributor. A great view from the 6th floor café, and full beauty treatment on the 4th floor. Map I13 Panepistimio, Panepistimiou 9, Sintagma, 2111802500, atticadps.gr

golden hall

Luxurious shopping centre with expensive brands, clothes, accessories, jewelry, sportswear, cosmetics, art objects, Doudesis hair salon, Mastic Spa for special beauty treatment and more. Be warned: it gets extremely crowded on a Saturday. Kifisias 37A, Marousi, +302106803450, goldenhall.gr

hondos Center

It can provide you with everything you need, for your season shopping or just for a tiny elegant gift. Or go straight to the roof garden, for tasty traditional Greek cuisine, and the most beautiful view. Map F8 Omonia, Omo- *

marianna Petridi

Beloved artistic jewellery gallery with a permanent showroom for Greek and foreign designers. Map I15 Evangelismos, Charitos 34, Kolonaki, +302107217789

minas

The ultimate rock designer. Vintage all-time classic jewels, the first choice among the trendy youth. Emanouil Benaki 8, Kifissia, +302106233577, minastudio.com

IntImIssImI

Amazing lingerie with simple, elegant Italian style, for both men and women. Map K10 Syntagma, Stadiou 21, +302106840005

swatch

Code: colour. The must-have Swiss watch, you can’t stop at one. Map J15 Panepistimio, Patriarchou Ioakim 12, Kolonaki, +302107239708, CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 41

youtH laB.

CC Complete Cream SPF30, multifunctional color and correction cream with antioxidant action and natural color pigments. Adjusts to every skin tone, providing natural coverage and matte finish! Moisturizes immediately, long-lasting and restores the skin’s elasticity. Vitamin PP regulates the levels of melanin and the high SPF protects from UV rays and free radicals. www.youthlab.com

Keep in mind

● Pay a visit to the New Benaki

Museum (Pireos 138); its Greek handmade jewellery is a delight. ● Buy a small figurine in the gift shop of the Cycladic Art Museum (Vasilissis Sofias & Irodotou 1). ● Clothes and accessories by Ioanna Kourbela and Zeus + Dione rate among the most elegant examples of Greek design. ● Try to do your shopping in the morning. ● You will come across all the major international brands on Voukourestiou str. ● Shopping centres Attica (Panepistimiou 9, Athens city centre) and Golden Hall (Kifissias Avenue 37A, Maroussi) sport the widest variety of shops ● If you have time to kill, have a look at the interesting markets of Kifissia (northern suburbs) and Glyfada (southern suburbs).

maH Jong

A men’s store with excellent international brands. If you have a passion for KITON men’s suits, you will find them in a wide variety and sur mesure. You will also find the insuperable leather accessories of the Neapolitan brand Tramontano, Sartori, Santangelo, John Lobb shoes, Roda’s wonderful silk scarves and more. Map J13 Panepistimio, Kanari 14, Kolonaki, +302103622860

42 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

nia Sq. 4, +302105282800, hondoscenter.com

Notos Galleries

A standard department store primarily selling clothes and satisfying most of the consumption needs of the modern Athenian. Clothes, shoes, underwear, accessories, sportswear, toys. Map G8 Omonia, Eolou 99 & Lykourgou, +302103245811, notosgalleries.gr

Shopping Spree at McArthurGlen

A mega store filled with popular brand names in clothing, shoes, accessories and household goods with 35 to 70% discount. +302106630840, more information on mcarthurglenathens.com

The Mall Athens

200 shops within a shop, the Village cinema complex, restaurants and cafés and a super market, all wrapped up in a futuristic design with a roof garden offering an amazing view. Andrea Papandreou 35, Maroussi, +302106300000-003, themallathens.gr

Beauty-Care CosmetiCs Mastiha Shop

Mastic is a unique natural product that can be found only on the Greek island of Chios. The brand’s collaboration with Korres has developed exceptional products such as the mastic conditioner with mastic oil and provitamins. Map I13 Panepistimio, Panepistimiou 6 & Kriezotou, +302103632750

Sephora

All the latest fragrances, plus all the alternative collections that set global trends: Make up for ever, Sephora Products, Strivectin, OPI. Map K10 Syntagma, Ermou 24, Syntagma, +30 2103313167/ Milioni 2, Kolonaki, +302103613051/ The Mall Athens, Marousi, +302106300125

the aPiVita Experience Store

A renovated neo-classical building designed to offer a unique and holistic experience, this is Athens’s top destination for natural cosmetics, SPA treatments, “green” hair salon and organic juice bar to refresh and

energize. Discover the “natural pharmacy” where the specialists can help you create your own personal cosmetics and of course, the BEEHIVE SPA, a real beehive spa sanctuary! The spa cabins are made of real wooden bee hive parts and the ceiling is made of honey tinted crystal elements that literally immerse the visitor in the bee world. Map H12 Panepistimio, Solonos 26, Kolonaki, +302103640560

Hair salons D. Frank

Hair cuts, coiffures, flashes, colours, everything a classical hair salon offers, as well as lots of surprises. Fragiskos is still the top Scissorhands. Map I14 Evangelismos, Sina 50 & Anagnostopoulou, Kolonaki, +302103603297 When you’re out and about in Athens, upload your favourite moments on instagram using the hashtag #lookmag

Georgios Doudessis Georgios Doudesis’ professionalism and modern aesthetics changed the world view of Athenian hair salons forever. Map I13 Evangelismos, Voukourestiou 39, Kolonaki, +302103629970, doudesis.com

talkin’ Heads Cut & Colour

The most “theatrical” hair salon in Athens. Great modern design, mirrors on the ceiling, fantastic music and superb cuts and styles by George Kambouris who is also a radio DJ. City hipsters love him. Map G12 Evangelismos, Massalias 5, Kolonaki, +302103392211

Vangelis Hatzis

The most luxurious service. Slightly specialised in naturallooking blonde colours. But don’t even think of turning up without an appointment. Kifissias 196, Psichiko, +302106747011, vangelishatzis.gr ●

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 43

INTERNATIONAL BOOKSTORES Anavasi

An exquisite travel bookstore offering a plethora of maps and travel guides to anyone wishing to find their way around hiking and joining activities in Greece. Map K10 Syntagma, Voulis 32, Syntagma, +302103218104

Best Book Hunters

This bookstore is ideal for booklovers who wish to purchase used books, but also explore the cornucopia of book collections the store has in stock. Map E12 Panepistimio, Zoodohou Pigis 41A, Exarchia, +302103603473

Deutsche Buchhandlung

Ideal for those loving German literature, the store also provides plenty of board games for children. Map I10 Panepistimio, Omirou 4 & Stadiou 10, Gallery Lemos, +302103225294, +302103257820

Ianos

Not only does this store provide a variety of books for literature and art lovers, but it also organizes cultural events within the store, and includes a small, cozy café. Map I10 Panepistimio, Stadiou 24, Panepistimio, +302103217917

International Press

By far the largest store with international press in Athens, offering many publications while also providing books. Map F9 Omonia, Panepistimiou 73, Omonia, +302103210989

44 _ CITY 44 CITYGUIDE GUIDE SUMMER SUMMER 2018 2017

Le Livre Ouvert

It mostly offers French literature, but it also includes a large section of international titles. Map G11 Panepistimio, Solonos 77, Kolonaki, +302103629703

Politeia

Vast bookstore offering a huge variety of titles and authors whilst having helpful and well-informed staff, as well as relatively low prices. Map G11 Panepistimio, Asklipiou 1-3, Panepistimio, +302103600235

Public

A large department store in which one can explore his/ her choices, as it provides books under most sciences and interests, including Economics, Psychology, and fashion. Map K10 Syntagma, Karagiorgi Servias 1, Syntagma, +302103246210

Travel Bookstore

This excellent travel bookshop belongs to the top Greek cartography companies ORAMA and ROAD Editions (NAKAS GROUP of companies’ members), which are our map suppliers. Huge variety of top quality maps and travel guides covering every last corner of the country, as well as international maps and travel guides series. If you mention you’re a reader of this guide, the bookshop’s experienced staff will happily give you an extra discount. Map G12 Panepistimio, 71 Solonos street, Kolonaki, +302103616943, travelbookstore.gr ●

CITY CITY GUIDE GUIDE SUMMER SUMMER2017 2018 _ 45

Hotels

Welcome to Athens, a modern hospitable European capital with nearly 500 hotels. From 5* to youth hostels, there is accommodation for all budgets and tastes. By ERO PARTSAKOULAKI

When you’re out and about upload in Athens, y momen our favourite ts on in sta using t he hash gram tags #athen svo #lookm ice ag

Athens Hilton

thens is much more than a quick stop on the way to the islands. The stylish, luxurious city hotels attract thousands of tourists who wish to explore the capital and its unique beauty. With breathtaking view at Acropolis or just a few steps away from the city's nightlife, you can find everything you were dreaming of.

★★★★★

Athenaeum Intercontinental

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map Q8, Syggrou-Fix, Syggrou 89-93, +302109206000, ichotelsgroup.com

Athens Hilton

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map K19 Evangelismos, Vasilissis Sofias 46, +302107281000, hiltonathens.gr

Crowne Plaza

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map J21 Megaro Moussikis, Mihalakopoulou 50, +302107278000, cpathens.com

Electra Metropolis

Grand Resort Lagonissi

LAGONISSI 40th Km Athinon-Souniou, +302291076000, lagonissiresort.gr

Grande Bretagne

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map K11 Syntagma, Syntagma sq., +302103330000, grandebretagne.gr

King George II

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map K11 Syntagma, Syntagma sq., +302103222210, classicalhotels.com

Melia Athens

Saint George Lycabettus

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map I15, Kleomenous 2, +302107416000, sglycabettus.gr

Semiramis

KIFISSIA Kifissia, Charilaou Trikoupi 48, +302106284400, semiramis.athenshotels.it

★★★★

Alexandros

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map E9 Omonia, Chalkokondili 14, +302103320100, melia-athens.com

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map F22 Megaro Moussikis, Timoleontos Vassou 8, Ampelokipi, +302106430464, airotel.gr

Metropolitan

Amalia

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Syggrou 385, +302109471000, chandris.gr

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map L11 Omonia, Amalias 10, +302103237301-9, amalia.gr

New Hotel

Art Hotel Athens

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map L11 Syntagma, Filelinon 16, +302103273000, newhotel.athenshotels.it

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map D8 Omonia, Marni 27, +302105240501, arthotelathens.gr

N.J.V. Athens Plaza

ATHENS CITY CENTRE N. Kosmos, Okeanidon 21, +302109319300-4, athensatrium.gr

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map K11 Syntagma, Vassileos Georgiou 2, +302103352400, njvathensplaza.gr

Athens Atrium

Athens Lotus

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map K8 Syntagma, Mitropoleos 15, +302141006200 electrahotels.gr

Park

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map A11, Victoria, Alexandras 10, +302108894500, athensparkhotel.gr

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map D5 Metaxourghio, Chiou 9, +302105249050, athenslotushotel.gr

Electra Palace

Royal Olympic

AVA Hotel & Suites

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map L10 Syntagma, Navarchou Nikodimou 18, +302103370000, electrahotels.gr 46 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map IP8 Akropoli, Athanasiou Diakou 28-34, +302109288400, royalolympic.com

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map N9 Akropoli, Lisikratous 9-11, +302103259000, avahotel.gr

The Hilton Athens

Take a dive into the heart of the city

Galaxy Bar & Restaurant

The Athenian summer, long and hot, and you are caught right in the middle. Any plans for escaping the city? Not to worry. The legendary Hilton Hotel is a perfect summer destination all on its own, the ultimate getaway right in the city center. Enjoy a leisurely dip in its outdoor swimming pool, a celebrated meeting point, featuring a new, refreshed look this year, with new umbrellas in grey, sandy colors and bigger, more comfortable sunbeds. Right beside the palm trees, the Oasis Pool Bar & Grill launches its new fine Mediterranean cuisine. Indulge yourself with an inspiring cocktail, or a healthy, soul nourishing smoothie, or delightful greek gourmet bites washed down with some "ouzo", or a light alfresco lunch. The pool is open daily from 8am to 9pm with € 35 entrance fee on weekdays (€ 25 after 6pm) and € 55 on weekends. Also, on Thursday and Friday, for the whole of July and August, the pool will be open 21:00-01:00 in the evenings if you prefer a night swim under the magnificent starry sky, listening to heartful lounge tunes, sipping breezy cocktails. Never forget to reserve a table at the Galaxy Bar & Restaurant for a taste of excquisite Mediterranean dishes and sushi bites while sipping colorful cocktails under the stars. Hilton Athens, 46 Vassilissis Sofias Av., +30 2107281000, www.athens.hilton.com

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 47

ToP ACCoMMoDATIoN

Aria Plaka Residence – Aria Hotels Athens City Centre Map O9 Akropoli, 15 Tripodon Street, Plaka Troulanda Acropolis Suites – Aria Hotels Athens City Centre Map K10 Syntagma, 8 Ermou street, Athens, 9th floor Τel.: +30 2130391824 ariahotels.gr

View from the Troulanda Acropolis Suites – Aria Hotels

Electra Hotel

Athens City Centre Map K10 Syntagma, Ermou 5, +302103378000, electrahotels.gr

Fresh Hotel

Athens City Centre Map H7 Omonia, Sofokleous 26 & Klisthenous 2, +302105248511-6, freshhotel.gr

Golden Age

Rovertou Gali 4, +302109236832-6, herodion.gr

Station, Michail Voda 4-6, +302108200700, novotelathens.gr

Holiday Suites Hotel

Parthenon

Athens City Centre Map I21 Megaro Moussikis, Arnis 4, +302107278690, holiday-suites.com

Athens City Centre Map O9 Akropoli, Makri 6, Plaka, +302109234594, airotel.gr

Ilissia

Athens City Centre Map I5 Evangelismos, Haritos 22, +302107297200, yeshotels.gr

Athens City Centre Map I21 Megaro Moussikis, Michalakopoulou 57, +302107240861-9, goldenage.gr

Athens City Centre Map K19 Evangelismos / Megaro Moussikis, Mihalakopoulou 25, +302107244051-6, ilisiahotel.gr

Hera Hotel

Ilissos

Herodion

Novotel Athenes

Athens City Centre Map Q8 Syggrou-Fix, Falirou 9, +302109236682, herahotel.gr

Athens City Centre Map P7

Akropoli,

Athens City Centre Syggrou-Fix, Kallirois 72, +302109202000, ilissos.gr

Athens City Centre Map C7

Larissa

Periscope

StratosVassilikos

Athens City Centre Map G23 Moussikis, Mihalakopoulou 114, +302107706611, airotel.gr

Megaro

The Athenian Callirhoe

Athens City Centre Map Q8 Syggrou-Fix, Kallirois 32 & Petmeza, +302109215353, tac.gr

Titania

Athens City Centre Map G9 Omonia, Panepistimiou 52, +302103326000, titania.gr

Zafolia

Athens City Centre Map B17, Alexandras 87-89, +302106449002, zafoliahotel.gr

★★★

Achilleas

Athens City Centre Map J10 Syntagma, Leka 21, Syntagma, +302103233197, achilleashotel.gr

Acropolis Select President Hotel

48 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

Athens City Centre Map Q7, Syggrou-Fix, Falirou 37-39, +302109211610, acropoliselect.gr

Aria Hotels Aria Plaka Residence

Aria Plaka Residence is a three-storey holiday home located on Tripodon street, the oldest street in the Athens neighbourhood of Plaka. This authentic neoclassical house may accommodate up to four people and is ideal for families. Guest accommodation comprises two bedrooms, a spacious seating and dining area as well as a fully equipped kitchen, two bathrooms and a rooftop terrace with wonderful views of the Acropolis. Address: 15 Tripodon Street, Plaka - Athens (a few steps away from Akropoli Metro station)

Troulanda Acropolis Suites

Troulanda Acropolis Suites are two modern holiday apartments centrally located on Ermou street in the heart of Athens, a few steps from landmark Syntagma Square. Accommodating up to two people each, these fully renovated penthouse suites are available for self-catering stays. Each open-plan suite comprises one bedroom, a spacious seating area, a bar-style dining area, kitchenette, and one bathroom. The wall-to-wall picture windows all give wonderful views of the Acropolis. ADDRESS: 8 Ermou street, Athens, 9th floor (a few steps away from Syntagma Square and Syntagma Metro station)

#AriaHotels facebook.com/AriaHotels AriaHotels AriaHotelsGR

www.ariahotels.gr

CONTACT: Î•-mail: ariathens@ariahotels.gr Î¤el.: +30 2130391824

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 49

Adrian Hotel

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map L8 Adrianou 74, +302103221553, douros-hotels.com

Syntagma,

Arethusa Hotel

Philippos Hotel

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map P7 Akropoli, Mitseon 3, Makrigianni, +302109223611, philipposhotel.gr

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map K10 Syntagma, Mitropoleos 6-8 & Nikis 12, +302103229431-8, arethusahotel.gr

Poseidon Hotel

Arion Athens Hotel

HOSTELS

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map I7 Monastiraki, Omonia, Agiou Dimitriou 18, +302103240415, arionhotel.gr

Athens Center Square MONASTIRAKI Map H7 Syntagma, Aristogitonos 15, +302103211770, athenscentersquarehotel.gr

Attalos

MONASTIRAKI Map K10 Syntagma, Athinas 29, +302103212801-2-3, attaloshotel.com

Omiros Hotel

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map L9 Syntagma, Apollonos 15, +302103235486-7, omiroshotel.com

Pan

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map K10 Syntagma, Mitropoleos 11, +302103237816, panhotel.gr

President Hotel Swim on top

PALAIO FALIRO 72 Poseidonos Ave., +302109872000, poseidonhotel.com.grt

Athens Backpackers

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map P9 Akropoli, Makri 12, +302109224044, backpackers.gr

AthenStyle

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map J7 Monastiraki, Agias Theklas 10, +302103225010, athenstyle.com

Dioskouros

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map N10 Akropoli, Syntagma, Pitakou 6, +302103248165, hoteldioskouros.com

The Student and Travellers Inn

ATHENS CITY CENTRE Map M9 Akropoli / Syntagma, Kidathineon 16, +302103244808-2, studenttravellersinn.com ●

AMMON ZEUS HOTEL

Ammon Zeus enjoys a beachfront location in the popular resort of Kallithea, in Chalkidiki. Τotally renovated in 2018, it has spa, hammam, sauna, a small gym and a pool with summer terrace. Yoga and one scuba diving lesson are provided weekly for free. All rooms have private balconies with sea or garden views. The restaurant serves breakfast and dinner in a buffet with traditional Greek and Mediterranean dishes. In Greco’s sea food a la carte restaurant you 'll taste greek gourmet cuisine at its finest. High quality fresh sea food and meat presented in an innovative way on the restaurant’s mesmerising terrace, accompanied by a wide selection of our top awarded Greek wines. Live music nights are organized in our Cocktail Bar, by the sea.

Kallithea, Chalkidiki, P: 0030 23740 22356, Email: reservations@ammon-zeus.gr

Athens looks different from 21 floors above the ground. You look different too as all your worries and the everyday routine vanishes the moment you walk in President Hotel. Away from the hustle of the city below, let yourself relax in absolute comfort and style. The open-air swimming pool under the Athenian sky on the top floor of the hotel, is open daily from 10.30 am to 19.00 in the afternoon. The lounge music, the minimal design with some ethnic touches, the comfortable sunbeds, make the perfect atmosphere where you can enjoy your coffee and snack, a refined cocktail at the bar with the most magical city view after the pool is closed, or the elegant and inspired Mediterranean and international cuisine at the Penthouse 21 Skyscraper Bar Restaurant. In other words, while in Athens, this hotel could be your dream summer destination. Entrance to the pool costs €20 for the whole day on weekdays and €30 on weekends and holidays.

43, Kifissias Avenue, 2106989000, www.president.gr

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 51

€_up to 15 €€_15-25 €€€_25-35 €€€€_35+

Restaurants Athenian eating at its best

By NENELA GEORGELE, KATERINA VNATSIOU

n Greece, what we call “Mama’s food” holds a prominent place in our daily diet. Over the past years, the world has also learnt to appreciate the delights and health benefits of the Mediterranean diet. While we are very proud of our national cuisine, there is plenty of choice, in Athens, to satisfy even the most demanding customer, whether you are looking for a glimpse into the traditional Greek cuisine or a creative, international suggestion.

52 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

TGI Fridays™

The place where everyday is Friday! Οne can always be sure of a warm welcome in TGI Fridays™. “In here, it’s always Friday”, they say and they mean it. You can start with a Margarita or any other of their famous signature cocktails or by just simply asking for the bartenders’ imaginative creations. Delicious appetizers, like the renowned Potato Twisters, which no one misses to order, irresistible Tex-Mex dishes, steaks and of course the handcrafted burgers made with 100% fresh beef and ingredients of exquisite quality. Its “Living Well” dishes, combine vegetables, chicken, fish and superfoods, an excellent choice that will bewilder you. Marvelous tastes, fun surprises, authentic American ambience and their one of a kind events are the main reasons to visit over and over again the TGI Fridays™ restaurants.

There are 6 TGI Fridays™ spots in Athens and 2 in Thessaloniki. Wheather you want a break in the heart of the city or an escape in some of he most beautiful neighborhoods, this is the best choice for a perfect meal or a cocktail! Tip: You can find many intriguing offers, like Lunch Menu, available from 13:00 until 18:00 on Weekdays (you can combine a side salad with a main dish and a beer or soft drink at 10,90€). TGI Fridays™: 2 Neofitou Vamva str., Kolonaki and also in Kifisia, Glyfada, Ampelokipi, Flisvos Marina, Athens Metro Mall (Athens), Mediterranean Cosmo, Aristotelous (Thessaloniki). www.fridays.gr

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 53

MICHELIN

Michelin stars for excellence are awarded to selected restaurants and Athens could not miss its share in top quality establishments.

SPondi With two Michelin

stars, Spondi is considered the absolute best restaurant in Greece. French cuisine by chef Angelos Landos, luxurious environment and service which makes you feel like a king. Pirronos 5, Pagrati, +302107564021

Funky GourmeT Two

young and extremely talented chefs, Nikos Roussos and Georgianna Hiliadaki, have won two Michelin stars with their modern Greek cuisine. Their motto: “innovative cooking activates the senses”.They already opened a second resto in London. 13, Paramithias Street & Salaminos, Keramikos, +302105242727

BoTrini’S Minimal

environment in a beautiful old house with a cozy garden, and an excellent menu by famous chef Ectoras Botrini. Good value for money. B. Georgiou B 24b, Chalandri, +302106857324

HyTra Reach the 6xth floor of

the Onassis Cultural Center, and you will find yourself in Hytra, where you can enjoy the great view along with great food. Mainly Greek cuisine by chef Tasos Mantis. Offers a degustation menu and many choices for different budgets. Syggrou Avenue, 107-109, +302103316767

Greek TradiTional

Extra virgin olive oil, seasonal vegetables, greens and herbs, crispy pies and juicy roasts, fresh fish and seafood are some of the ingredients that have established the Greek cuisine as one of the best in the world. You will find it in tavernas and restaurants throughout the city. The best compliment a Greek traditional chef can hear: “This reminds me of the way my mother used to make this plate when I was little… ”.

dexameni

One of the most historical “kafeneia” of Athens, open from 10:00 till very late, for coffee, meze, Cretan raki and delicious homemade halva with ice-cream. Map I15

Evangelismos, Dexamenis Square, Kolonaki, +302107214368 €

economou

Traditional tavern in a former working class neihbourhoud which is now a hip area crowded by young artists. Excellent house wine and high quality Greek cuisine. Closed Sun. Map O1, Petralona Troon 41 & Kidanti-

don, +302103467555 €

Filippou

This historic restaurant will serve you “mama’s” food in very good prices. Closed Sat evening and Sun (also 8-23/8). Map I15 Evangelismos,

Xenokratous 19, Kolonaki, +302107216390 €€

kentrikon

One of the oldest and most popular restaurants in the city center, operating since 1937. Greek traditional cuisine. Only open until 18:00. Closed Sun. and on bank holidays. Map J1O Syntagma, Kolokotroni

3, Syntagma, +302103232482 €€

klimataria

Varoulko Seaside Lefteris One of the oldest tavernas in Lazarou is the first Greek chef to Athens, a culinary landmark in the acquire a Michelin star. He is one of the country’s most renewed chefs, with a loyal audience and a unique knowledge of seafood. In Varoulko, aTHenS modern Greek cuisine meets the HaS iTS oWn international gastronomy in an maTSuHiSa excellent venue with huge Home of the world famous Nobu windows and a breathtaking cuisine, Matsuhisa meets the view of the sea which lies in a 2 highest standards for sushi. Highlights: black cod, nice cocktails, meters distance. Akti fantastic location Koumoundourou 52, Mikrolimano, on the sea front. +302105228400 Astir Palace Hotel, Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni, +302108960510 €€€€

54 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

city center and in close distance to the central market place, Klimataria is hosted in a very old little house with an inner yard adorned with vast greenery and flowers and a lovely decoration. You’ll enjoy delicious greek traditional flavours, while the long menu includes all the classic and home-cooked style recipes: a great variety of fresh salads, soups, pies, legumes, lamb fricassee and its “signature” dish, pot-roasted lamb with potatoes. Pretty much a local's restaurant with a wonderful, homey ambiance, some evenings accompanied by the live tunes of Greek bouzouki. Good price list, friendly service. 2, Theatrou sq,

+302103216629

kyveli

Keeping its retro “profile” that blends perfectly with the all so retro neighborhood, Kyvelli is popular among the locals. Happy interior adorned with old photographs and advertising posters of past decades. The menu, a refreshing culinary experience, includes salads, appetizers and delicious “meze”.

Monday closed. 15, Eptanisou str., Kypseli, +302108219406

Platanos

Under the shade of the big old plane tree that also gave its name to the place, Platanos prepares the tables out in the summer evening dew and creates what is widely known as the hospitable Greek way of life. Great variety of “mezes” for starters and delicious firsts with meat or fish, all created with extra care and respect to traditional recipes, accompanied by good wine, ouzo, or tsipouro. In the morning hours it serves coffee. Open daily. 43, Agias Zonis, Kypseli,

+302108612749

Saligaros

Though hidden in the narrow streets of Exarheia, it is always packed with fresh, smiley faces. You'll be given cretan raki to start with and wash your palate clean and ready to taste the inspired dishes of young chef patron Rigas Rigopoulos, a Cretan by origin, who creates his recipes using traditional cretan products and ingredients. Rabbit, roasts with tomato sauce, spaghetti, salads with wild greens and aromatic herbs. The atmosphere turns festive in no time.

37, Solomou str., Exarheia, +302130226262

To omorfo

Greek traditional cuisine. Located at the most quite road of the

Harvest

Your favorite coffee & wine bar In the heart of historical centre of Athens you will discover this magnificent wine bar, a meeting point for everyone who loves single origin coffees, tasty flavors and special wines. You definitely have to taste the brunch menu (served every day 09.00-18.00 and 09.00-19.00 on Sundays). Benedict eggs, Huevo de Coral, Huevos rotos con chistora are the best seller dishes, but there are much more to discover. Don’t leave without trying the stuffed pancakes with praline or the Harvest Summer salad, an excellent choice. While the sun goes down it’s time for a glass of wine. In Harvest you can choose among 110 wine labels from Greek and international vineyards. Combine your wine with the interesting suggestions from the tapas menu, relax listening to the jazz, soul, funky and swing sounds and find your personal paradise in the city of Athens. Aiolou 64 & Evripidou, (+30) 213 0252284, Fb” @harvestcoffeewine CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 55

restaurants which have a shopping section within Have you ever been so excited by some dishes at a Greek Restaurant that you wished you could buy the ingredients and cook the dish at home? Now your wish can come true! Jams and delicious cold meats, cheeses from all over Greece, handmade pasta, nuts, honey, wines and spirits, all of which you can enjoy in the street as a snack, in your hotel, as a lunch or as a memorial when you go back home.

ta karaManliDika tou Fani The ideal place to taste

tradition ‘meze’ from all over Greece. Their products are excellent, you can dine in and/or buy some of their products. In the centre of the premises is a glass display with dozens of cold meats, cheeses, sausages and spicy sausages (soujouki), for you to choose from. Map H7 Omonia, Sokratous 1& Εvripidou,

+302103254184, Mon - Sat: 12:00-23:00 (sales: 08:00-21:00)

erGon One of the most popular

and successful chain of restaurants not only in Greece but also in London, Brussels, Miami. Ιt serves quality food but you can buy Greek products: olive oil, olives, honey, jams, pasta, sauces, syrups, herbs, coffee. Map K8 Syntagma,

Mitropoleos 126, +302103315547, 12 pm - 12 am (store hours 09.00-01.00)

Yoleni’S With thousands of quality products from small producers from all around the region it’s an ambassador of Greek traditional flavors! The six-story building includes the coffee corner, with rare coffee varieties, pites and sandwiches, the restaurant with great meat options, an olive oil bar, a cellar with fine Greek wine labels and a room for cooking classes. Map J13 Syntagma, 9, Solonos Str.

cosmopolitan shopping area of Kolonaki, a bit further from Lycabettous Hill. At Omorfo feels like eating at home, you will taste homemade plates, all made from high quality products. Everyone knows about it as it has a long history, since 1980. Everyday has a new menu but don’t miss out their specialties, some of them are: veal with zucchini in egg and lemon sauce, pastitsio, and stuffed tomatoes. Big portions, reasonable prices and gentle care. Map H18, Syn-

tagma, Open everyday and on Sun 12:30 00.00 + Delivery, Xenokratous 50, Kolonaki, +302107226830 €

Vlassis

Plain, simple space with an “intellectual” touch, but its passion for original Greek food remains intact. Splendid cooked dishes, even better grilled & fried seafood. Closed Sun (also 8-23/8). Map J22, Megaro,

Meandrou 15, Ilissia, +302107256335 €€

Greek CreatiVe Greeks love their traditional homemade cuisine and renowned Greek chefs love to experiment with its recipes. What they come up with is some of the country’s most representative dishes served up “with a twist”. The finest restaurants of the Greek creative cuisine are...

aleria

Α yard that resembles the french countryside. Two level building, elegant decoration, one of the best menus in Greek creative cuisine, chef Gikas Xenakis. You can also relax and have a drink. Sun. Closed.

Map G3 Metaxourgio, Meg. Alexandrou 57, +302105222633 €€€

athiri

Award-winning chef Alexis Kardasis, creative cuisine, magnificent dishes. Mon.Closed. Map H3 Keramikos, Plateon

Kolonaki, +302122223623

15, Keramikos, +302103462983 €€€

O Bakalis (The GrOcer) Cheeses from Naxos &

Cookoovaya

Crete, unprocessed matured sausages, excellent quality salt cured products, pulses from Thessalia, dozens of pasta (from Zea wheat), jams made from citrus fruit. Try them on the spot, cooked deliciously – around 40 dishes accompanied with traditional Greek drinks! 19 Kalamakiou & Thoukididou St., Alimos,

+302109820040 56 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

Five excellent chefs (N. Karathanos,

P. Koskinas, V. Liakos, S. Liakos, K. Zournatzis) have taken over the cuisine of this restaurant, making the whole city curious to try their dishes. Closed 10-17/8. Map J20

Megaro, Xatzigianni Mexi 2a, Ilissia, +302107235005 €€€

Dionysos

Enjoy magnificent Mediterranean cuisine in this emblematic restaurant of Athens facing the Acropolis. Beautiful garden and posh customers. Map O7 Akropoli,

Rovertou Gali 43, Makrigianni, +302109233182 €€€€

to Mavro Provato (Black Sheep)

One the city’s most loved restaurants, it fills quickly daily with Athenian crowds, actresses, screenwriters, artists and celebrities. Very good modern Greek cuisine, emphasis is placed on quality ingredients, traditional dishes with a modern touch, a relaxed and intimate atmosphere. Tables inside and outside on the pavement, make sure to book. Daily from noon, Sunday serving only midday. Map N17 Evangelismos, Arrianou

33, Pagrati, +302107223466 €€

Vasilainas

This historic100-year-old restaurant has catered for an allstar list of visitors who have passed through Greece – from Sofia Loren to Winston Churchill. Now in a new location, behind the emblematic Hilton, in a property that has been magnificently designed by the famous architects A. Kourkoulas M. Kokkinou. Cuisine Greek, creative and unforgettable gastronomic experience, degustation menu and a la carte, wine cellar with the best of Greek and international vineyards. Reduced rates at noon. Brasida 13, (be-

hind the Hilton Hotel), +302107210501

MeDiterranean City Bistro

Joint in the heart of the city, open from the morning, for coffee,

AvgotArAho (Grey Mullet Bottarga)

A delicacy of cured Grey Mullet Roe. Natural without preservatives, with high nutritional value and a pleasant, long-lasting aftertaste. It can be consumed in small slices as an appetizer, with freshly baked bread or with pasta.

Luigi Sky Bar Restaurant Such a breathtaking view makes your mind drift A new entry in the Athenian hospitality steals your heart. In one of the most scenic spots of the city, at Mnisikleous Street in Plaka, awaits a large rooftop terrace with the most spectacular view you have ever seen. It is true, you can spend hours at Luigiâ€™s rooftop just gazing at the Acropolis and Lycabettus, if only you could reach out and touch them. In this magnificent place, a meeting point for the romantic souls, you can enjoy early morning quality coffee, intriguing snack bites, cool salads, delicious Italian pizzas, pasta dishes and more, and when the leading star makes its appearance, that would be the sunset or the moon or the city lights, your dreams become a vivid reality soaked in the aromas of classic and creative cocktails. It is an experience worth living. 22, Mnisikleous str., Plaka, 2103235318, www.luigiathens.com, fb: Luigi Athens

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 57

Eat healthy in Athens Gluten free, vegeterian, vegan, raw: there is an answer to every question! Yi The first raw-eating restaurant in Greece: nothing is cooked over 46ºC. Yi is a multipurpose venue with huge windows, large wooden tables, floral seats and high quality food. Salads, pizzas and excellent sweets: the choice is yours. Grigoriou Labraki 69, Glyfada,

+302109648512

To Bazaki Huge variety of cold pressed juices. The juices are served in fancy jars (the word bazaki means little jar in Greek). They serve delicious soups and sandwiches as well as detox deals. The garden is super cozy! Chalandri, Aristotelous 33,

Avocado Siblings with

Map G12 Panepistimio, Skoufa 29, Kolonaki, +302103631827, +302103635773 €€

neighbouring yoga school, it’s a hotspot for vegeterians and healthy eaters. Very high rankings on TripAdvisor. Suitable for lunch or dinner. Map L10 Syntagma, Nikis 30,

+302103237878, avocadoathens.com

relaxing tables, excellent trip advisor reviews. Excellent value for money. They use bio products.

Panepistimio, Akadimias 84, +302114114420

Nice n Easy Probably the only place in Athens with a combination of mostly organic food and calorie

besT souVLAKI In ToWn

Exarheia, +302114050070

Insider’s guide for an authentic Athenian experience

Ktistakis Round pastry, similar to churros, “loukoumas”. Served with cinammon and honey. The most traditional can be found here. Map H7 Monastiraki, Sokratous 59

Trifylli Old fashioned, authentic small tavern. Small variety of plates, but every single one is worth trying. Budget friendly. After 8pm. Map D21 Ambelokipi, Panathinaikou 7

Uberness your chance to impress your date with your Athens insights. Tv chef

Prosopa

Located in one of the oldest and most picturesque areas of downtown Athens – beloved for its delicious Mediterranean dishes. Enjoy food under the stars. Closed 10-25/8. Keramikos, Konstantinoupoleos

4 & Megalou Vassiliou 52, Rouf, +302103413433 €€

The Parliament

The restaurant of the NJV At Prigkipas (the Prince) you will taste Athens Plaza hotel combines the national street food in its most delicious luxury with the simplicity of version. Try hand-made souvlaki, steaks, Mediterranean and Greek burgers, kebab, prepared with excellent flavors. Next to it, you will quality meat from small producers’ farms, find the Explorer’s Bar, where accompanied with extra spicy sauces and you can enjoy excellent finger potatoes fried perfectly. Also two fish dishes and vegetable burgers for food, until 2 a.m. Map K11 Syntagma, Vassileos Georgiou A2, Syntagma, veggies. 23, Harilaou Trikoupi str.,

Live like an Athenian!

Syntagma, Voulis 10

Map H13 Panepistimio, Omirou 60 & Skoufa, Kolonaki, +302103617201, Papadiamanti 7, Kifissia, +302108082014

Mama Tierra Open kitchen,

and other pies. From 1910. Ask for a «kourou». Map L10

tagma, Stoa Spiromiliou, Athens City Centre, +302103211315-16 €€€

The “it” place to have a lunch break, the absolute meeting point for the locals. Combines the vibe of a modern restaurant with the casualness of a take away. Healthy and fresh food, natural juices, salads, soups, an alternative option for fast food. Open all day.

counts in the menu. Fresh, local ingredients used. Menu of healthy and delicious choices and sushi. Open for coffee and breakfast at 09:00.

+302106800067

Ariston Legendary cheese

alcoholic beverages and tasty Mediterranean cuisine. Map J11 Syn-

Vasilis Kallidis opened an avant garde pop up canteenrestaurant located inside the Central Market of Vegetables. The food it serves can be described as “gourmet street food”. Rentis, Fruit Market, Tue-Fri

12:00-1:00, www.uberness.org.

Paleo Wine resto for connoisseurs! Located in a small street in Pireus, close to the port. 450 etiquettes of wine and some of the most delicious plates in town.

Peraeus,Polideukous 39, Piraeus

Kostas Probably the best souvlaki around! There is always a queue, and it stays open only until 5pm. Map I8 Monastiraki, Aghias Irinis Square

+302103352400 €€

Vezene

One of the best restaurants in the city, located behind Hilton Hotel. It is always packed with afficionados of nouvelle cuisine. Enjoy the delicacies from Mediterranean and Italian cuisine. Closed Sun.

Map K19 Evangelismos, Vrassida 11, Hilton, +302107232002 €€€

AThens from AboVe Galaxy

One of the most breathtaking views of the city and the Acropolis at the rooftop Galaxy Restaurant of Hilton, Athens. Authentic Greek and Mediterranean cuisine and highly interesting Asian dishes as well. Delicious cocktails and boutiquebrand drinks at the bar, which ranks among the 100 best in the world. The sophisticated décor adds “magic” to the surrounding space as a lit up sky of stars unfolds on the ceiling above you. Hilton Athens, 46, Vasi-

lissis Sofias Str., +3021072 81402

* 58 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

Fancy a Greek meze ?

Ama Lachi Housed in an old school, beautiful yard! In the same building you will also find chez Violette, an authentic French bistrot. Map C12, Kallidromiou 69, Exarchia, +302103845978

Avli Ultra traditional choice, budget-friendly. Relaxed atmosphere, serves coffee in the morning and all kinds of mezedes during the day. Map Q7 Fix, G.Olympiou 4,

Koukaki, +302114051412

Cherchez La Femme In the commercial streets of the City center, a must is Greek morning coffee traditionally brewed on embers, (offered together with famous louloumakia from the island of Syros), homemade mandarin drinks, lemonades and cinnamon drinks. Then delicious Greek appetizers that you can accompany with good Greek spirits or good Greek wines from small producers. A must try, are the homemade pastries, all offered at very competitive prices. Map L10

Syntagma, Mitropoleos 46, +30210 222020

Seychelles Do you like to make friends with the people sitting in other tables in the same restaurant, singing altogether over a plate of delicious Greek food? This place is for you. Map G5

Metaxourgio, Keramikou 49, +30211184789

Dioskouroi A favorite choice for tourists, near the Ancient Agora. Great view, precious shady spots under the trees. Map L6 Monastiraki,

Dioskouron 13, Plaka, +302103219607

Kriti Named after the eponymous island (Creta in Greek), it serves authentic cretan cuisine. Map E9 Verantzerou 5 (Kaniggos Square), Omonia, +302103826998

60 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

GB Corner

Deluxe art deco interior and impeccable service. An excellent choice after shopping in what can only be branded as Athens’ most chic and historical brasserie. You’ll be sitting next to powerful businessmen, and journalists in search of their next story. Delectable Mediterranean cuisine.

Map K11 Syntagma, Grande Bretagne Hotel, Syntagma sq., +302103330000 €€€€

La Suite Lounge

Eating by the Vertigo Pool is cool! Luxurious decoration, original Greek tastes. Nice view to the city and pleasant soundscape. BBQ on Mondays. Map G16 Evangelismos,

Hotel St. George Lycabettus, Kleomenous 2, Dexameni, +302107416000 €€€

Kebab house

The authentic cuisine of Smyrna beyond the clichés at Kyr Aristos. Aristos Chicken kebab, shish kebab, kaserli. Either served on a plate or on a skewer, you’ll love them. Cool atmosphere, friendly service and a much friendlier price list. 96, Zisimopoulou str., Paleo Faliro, +302109822320

Luigi Skybar Athens

Luigi is situated in the centre of Athens, at the atmospheric Plaka. The view to Acropolis and Lycabettus is thrilling, it makes you believe you can reach out to touch them. Romantic souls from all over the world meet here to enjoy a cup of coffee, delicious snacks and fresh salads, Italian pizzas, exquisite pasta dishes, imaginative cocktails and fine music. It's an experience worth living. Mnisikleous 22, Plaka, +302103235318

Olive Garden

On the 11th floor of central Athens Titania Hotel, the Olive Garden rooftop Restaurant makes for an unforgettable dining experience under the stars and with a stunning view of the city. Indulge in an amazing feast of the finest quality local and Mediterranean cuisine, complimented by an exquisite wine list. Open daily from morning till evening, for your coffee and some mouth watering sweet treats, lunch or dinner. 52, Panepistimiou str., Athens,

+302103326000

Penthouse 21

Reaching the 21st floor of the President Hotel and an amazing view of the city unfolds before your eyes. You’ll take a refreshing morning swim in the pool and then a delicious light breakfast. You’ll enjoy your coffee and snacks or a cocktail from a greatly mastered selection according to your mood. The Mediterranean cuisine is excellent featuring timeless classics and delightful desserts. The sunset creates an enchanting scenery for romances, while dinner under the stars makes an ideal wrapping of a perfect day. 43, Kifissias str., Ath-

ens, +302106989000

Skyfall

Terrace with unobstructed view of Athens: Acropolis, the Pillars of Olympian Zeus, the city’s bustling avenues. Mediterranean cuisine, finger food, tapas, large wine list and signature cocktails. Map P12, M. Mous-

sourou 1, Mets, +302109210098 €€

The Zillers

This year everybody is talking about The Zillers’ terrace. Lovely setting, outstanding view of the Acropolis, green scenery decoration. Open all day for coffee or drinks, snacks, special dishes by chef Konstantina Faklari and cocktails. Map K8

Syntagma, Mitropoleos 54, Syntagma, +302103222277 €€€

FiSh Atherina

In a beautiful garden you can enjoy fresh fish at really good prices. Xar.

Trikoupi 162, Nea Erithraia, +302106200089 €€

Dourabeis

An all-time classic and rightly famous. Fish cuisine of the highest standards. Akti Protopsalti 27, Piraeus,

+302104122092 €€€

istioploikos

A landmark of Mikrolimano overlooking the Saronic Gulf. In the evening it feels like you are at a beach bar. Modern, Mediterranean cuisine. The café looks like a boat deck. Akti Mikrolimano, Piraeus,

+302104134084 -184, +306944915220 €€€

Jimmy and the Fish It stands out among the tourist tavernas of Mikrolimano. Meeting point for a fish lunch on Sun by the yachts and fishing boats. Akti

Koumoundourou 46, Mikrolimano, +302104124417 €€€

Kiveli Tasty delights on the tables of the most charming square Located in one of the most beautiful and atmospheric spots of Athens, Agiou Georgiou square, Kiveli serves everyday exquisite Greek food and tasty fingerfood (also known as mezes in greek). The square is loaded with tables and alluring smells and the people passing by stop to stare Kiveli's famous dish ÂŤcharakiri chickenÂť, a marinated skewered chicken. The Andriotiki froutalia, the delicious tirokafteri, the eggplant salad and the zucchini balls are must-haves for every table, but so are the tsipouro, the excellent Rouvali's wine, the great variety of local and foreign beers and other fine local spirits. Kiveli's dairy products, originated from Olympos and Epirus, are also scrumptious, while the spreads are homemade and the menu is filled with Greek traditional dishes. They will always treat you with a piece of halva or fruit at the end, but if you wish for something else, there is also homemade chocolate mosaic, cheese cake and yogurt with jam. Open from 12.00pm to 01.00am (also with delivery around Kipseli) it is the best place to meet for dinner or a light lunch and drinks with friends. Eptanissou 15, Kipseli (Agiou Georgiou square), 2108219406, Fb: kivelirest

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 61

Koulouria Delight

Incredibly crunchy on the outside with an amazingly soft and slightly chewy centre. Koulouria are delicious Greek bread rings covered with toasted sesame seeds. It is the most popular street food one can find in Greece. And with good reason! When walking the streets of Athens you can’t miss the street vendors selling these popular sesame bread rings. These famous Greek Koulouria are probably the most popular breakfast for Greeks, along with a cup of coffee. You will love them with feta cheese or Graviera and Kalamata olives as a filling snack or cutting them in half crosswise, spreading with butter, honey or jam for breakfast. Simply delicious!

Milos Estiatorio

Inside the Hilton Hotel, minimal ambience, fish and seafood experts. Fixed lunch menu at €27. Map K19

Evangelismos, Hilton Hotel, Vasilissis Sofias 46, Kolonaki, +302107244400 €€€€

Psipsina

When the fish delicacies you ordered are served at your table, you’ll go meow, as the name of the restaurant suggests (pussycat). Fresh fish and seafood bites prepared masterfully on the grill. 96, Zisimopoulou str., Paleo Fa-

liro, +302109819072

Thalassinos

Athenians who love fish frequent this cozy place, which serves big or smaller fish in both creative and traditional way s in its lovely yard.

Moschato, Irakleos & Lisikratous 2, Moschato, +302109404518 €€

shakes and fresh-cut fried potatoes served in three different versions, desserts, cocktails and more. 97, Zisi-

mopoulou str., Paleo Faliro, +302109823273

T.G.I. Friday’s

Give some “flavour” to your evenings with appetizers and cocktails at happy hour prices. At TGI Friday’s you will find a variety of refreshing signature cocktails and straight drinks mixed by the greatest bartenders in the world. Kifissia Koloko-

troni 35, +30 210623 3947-8/ Kolonaki Map K15 Syntagma, Neofytou Vamva 2, +302107227721/ Ambelokipi Map D24 Ambelokipi, Kifissias & Alexandras, +3021064754178/ Glyfada Lazaraki 43, +302108982608-9/ Palio Faliro Marina Flisvou, Pier One, +302109853281/ Agios Dimitrios The Athens Metro Mall, Vouliagmenis 276, +302109717223/ Asteras Vouliagmenis Apollonos 40, +302108901625 €€

AMERICAN WAY

BAR REsTAuRANTs

Big Boy Burger

Albion

Predominantly Mediterranean cuisine – with emphasis in Italian food – and celebrity clientele. Open noon on Fri, Sat and Sat. Omirou 6, N. Psychiko,

+302106740710 €€€

Bunsis

Mouthwatering burgers served in an atmosphere that resembles America in the 50s and 60s. Also, a great variety of American classics, hot dog s, black Angus steaks, taquitos, milk

A breath of freshness, with delicious, light meals for all hours A new friendly and cozy place in the city center. Nicol and Ioanna are two sisters that every morning make fresh sweet and savory buns (sweet buns: cinnamon, chocolate, berry ; savory buns: feta, peperoni, olive). The cinnamon bun is the most famous even though the feta bun is taking the world by storm. Smoothies made with fresh fruits are a must try (don© t miss karpouzada: water melon, mint, honey). Vegan

62 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

options are also available like their grilled veggies salad with peanutbutter sauce or their kinoa and lentils salad. Bunsis also offers an all-day breakfast and brunch menu -sweet egg bread with honey & fresh fruits is a must have. And something divine: flavored water with lemon and mint, which is the most refreshing drink you have ever tasted! ● Aiolou 46, Athens, 2103311616, fb: Bunsis.Cafe

Platanos

Greek cuisine at its best “Platanos” is the Greek word for “plane tree”. The same enormous plane tree that planted years ago in this historical Athenian square, gave its name to the restaurant. Platanos is a brand new restaurant in the area of Kipseli, where you can taste exceptional Greek cuisine. Every single dish here is made with the finest Greek products and manage to bring tradition into the modern cuisine. Opened since 08.00am until 01.00 am, this restaurant offers a great variety of “Greek meze”, but also tasteful main dishes. Try the famous tzatziki with a modern twist, the Platanos salad which is a much more interesting version of the classic “Greek Salad”, the vegetable risotto, the chicken that is marinated in Greek yogurt, beer and lemon juice and much more plates that will reveal you the secrets of Greek cuisine. Of course you are going to discover all the famous Greek spirits (like ouzo or tsipouro) along with live Greek music. Agias Zonis 43, Kipseli, 210 8612749, Fb: @platanos.kipseli

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 63

Big Boy Burger Kebabtzidikon «O Kyr Aristos»

Burgers in a completely American scenery In a bar with leather stools, plaid tables, red & white tablecloths and Coca-Cola ads with pin ups, sometime you will feel that Tarantino will appear in the backdrop! The Big Boy’s script is (mostly) burgers. Most of them are American, but all of them are juicy and delicious. Along with these appetizers, fried potatoes in three different versions, hot dogs, cool salads, fantastic sweets, milkshakes and cocktails are offered. Enjoy them in the tables or in the long bar, which reminds us the 50’s. ● Zisimopoulou 97, Paleo Faliro, 210 9823273, Fb: Big Boyburgers n cocktails

Real Kebab with love Here you can find the flavor and perfume of the traditional recipes of Smyrna, with all the secrets of its famous cuisine, by people who love tradition. It would be a pity to visit Greece and not taste an authentic Kebab beef mince, kaserli (kebab with cheese), Kebab from chicken, pork, all of them so fresh that melt in the mouth! Apart from these nice meat dishes, you can also taste other delicious ones as well, such as cured beef, soutzouki, fried eggs in various ways and omelets, salads and much more. Extra tip: Mr Aristos who loves tradition, uses only extra virgin olive oil and Greek feta! ● Zisimopoulou 96, Paleo Faliro, 2109822320

64 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

Akakios

Incredible pasta with fresh Greek products

Psipsina

Traditional fish tavern with fresh fish

It’s incredible how tasteful could pasta be, made from specialists and «Akakios» is one of them. You will enjoy pasta with traditional Greek products, with fresh tomato, with garlic, minced meat, beef, pasta made by traditional recipe from Crete, with rooster and much more. You will also find pizzas, pies and fresh salads, in a place decorated like a monastery, that Athenians loved from the first moment. ● Agias Triados 1, Paleo Faliro, 2109803100

In the Greek language, «psipsina» is a nickname of cat, but this Psipsina is a fish tavern, even the most traditional in the beautiful area of Paleo Faliro. Its atmosphere reminds home cuisine and tastes that will bring the treasure of Aegean into your mind. All the fish are fresh, the cooks are unique in their kind and the recipes coming from Greek tradition, with a more modern approach and many specialties. You will find grilled and deep dried fish, smoked and salted, shells, pasta and much more, everything made with the purest ingredients. ● Zisimopoulou 96, Paleo Faliro, 2109819072

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 65

grEAT BEErs, grEAT music

Right in the heart of the summer buzz of the historic city center, apart from its chill-out atmosphere, its lovely young crowd and industrial interior, Barley Cargo reveals an intriguing selection of boutique beers more than 240 international and Greek beer labels - that may as well compliment the delicious Greek recipes featuring on the menu. Great music and regular live gigs.

6, Kolokotroni str., Syntagma +302103230445 €

Balthazar

One of the most beautiful buildings in Athens, it attracts politicians, businessmen, artists, who enjoy their early meals & drinks. Mediterranean cuisine by top chef Christoforos Peskias and a beautiful garden. Map D21 Ambelokipi, Tsoxa &

Vournazou 27, +3022106441215 €€€€

Efimerida ATH

Best places to chill out Athens can get hot during the summer months. The good news is that some of the best places to chill out are museum courtyards, so you can combine moments of relaxation in a shady garden together with your arty visit. Café at the Keramikos Building Complex (Museum of Islamic Art) The fresco in this colourful and lively atrium is handcrafted by Navine G. Khan-Dossos, an artist who drew inspiration from Athens’s palm trees. A feel-good environment, perfect for a quick coffee break. Mon-Wed-Sun 10.30-

17.30, Thu-Sat 12.00-20.00, Tue: Closed. Map I4 Thissio, Ag.Asomaton 22 &Dipilou, Monastiraki, +302103251311, benaki.gr Numismatic Museum of Athens A cozy old-fashioned café in a quiet, shady, green courtyard with replicas of ancient statues. The café offers beverages, salads etc. Every Thursday night there is live jazz. Mon-Sat 09:00-23:00, Sun 09.00-

Vasilissis Sofias & Koumpari 1, Kolonaki, +302103671000 Byzantine and Christian Museum Café Located in the glorious villa of the Duchess of Plaisance. Coffee, desserts, hot dishes and noise-free.

` Mon-Frid: 09.00-20.00. Sat & Sun: 09.0021.00 Map K15 Evangelismos, Vasilissis Sofias 22, Kolonaki, +302110120441 Café of the National Archaeological Museum Located inside the Atrium, the café houses 700 plants referred to in Greek Mythology, so it offers a great combination of an Ancient Greece flavour with some exhibits of botanical interest. Mon: 13:00–

20.00. Map J11 Syntagma, Panepistimiou 12, +302103610067

20:00. Tue–Sun. 08:00 - 20:00. Victoria, Patission 44, +302132144891

Benaki Museum Café

Cycladic Café

A meeting point for the cultural crowds, one of the most popular museum cafés of Athens. Promises of unforgettable romantic afternoons with a view of the Acropolis. Wed & Fri 21:00-17:00, Thu &

A modern secret garden right in the heart of Athens ideal for a break with a touch of Mediterranean cuisine. Mon-Wed-

Sat 09:00-24:00, Sun 09:00-15:00. Closed on Mon-Tue. Map K15 Evangelismos,

Fri-Sat 10:00-17:00, Thu 10:00-20:00, |Sun 11:00-17:00 Free WiFi. Map K15 Evangelismos, Neofytou Douka 4, Kolonaki, +302107228321-3 ●

The ambience, the interior, the music and the out-of-the ordinary flavors switch your mornings up a lot. In the morning for a lovely coffee and a selection of “voluptuous” breakfast and brunch dishes and later in the day for a lunch break, dinner, some drinks and cocktails listening to great music that gets louder as the night falls. 6, Sina & Vissa-

rionos str., Panepistimio, +30210 3648077

Zaf

In an alluring neighborhood square that never sleeps you’ll find Zaf. A lively popular place where you can get your morning coffee or brunch, amazing burger dishes and many other beloved treats. A signature list of special cocktails compliments the menu. Regular live performances, dj sets and all-night parties. 8, Platia Ag-

ias Irinis, Monastiraki, +302103236711

ALL DAY Bunsis

Hot buns, sweet or salted, filled with beloved and inspired ingredients take the leading role. Freshly squeezed detox juices, smoothies, water scented with herbs, craft beers and good wine also on the menu. 46 Aeolou & Kolokotroni str., Athens,

+302103311616

Tsiritri Tsiritro

Like an old children’s song, this place takes you back to those carefree and innocent days of your childhood. The taste of your mother's cooking

66 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

Prigkipas

Royal street food at affordable prices Imagine a mouth-watering smoked trout wrapped up in a delicious corn pita served with home-made fava (yellow split peas puree), capers, ring onions and tomato. A truly majestic dish for royal tastes. The «Prince» of Harilaou Trikoupi is the mastermind chef behind the most royal street food place in Athens. « Prigkipas» has a made a name for himself because he pays attention to every detail and goes to extra lengths. The lead protagonists of his menu are the Florina kebab wraps (with pork, veal and lamp minced meat), pork chops, mutton chops and buffalo meat. All meat products are chosen from

small-scale Greek farmers. Last but not least « Prigkipas» himself will serve you a shot of the original greek distillate of grape, tsipouro that makes life tastier and more relaxing. Eating at «Prince's» place has nothing to envy from an upscale restaurant while the prices are by far more affordable. Opening Hours: 12.00-24.00, Delivery: 13.00-23.30, Sunday closed. 23 Harilaou Trikoupi str., +30 2114050070, www.prigkipas.gr, Fb: @Prigkipas.Exarcheia, Instagram: prigkipas.exarcheia

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 67

+302106019975/ Chalandri +302106854210/ Kato Patissia +302102236295 €€

school Pizza Bar

Located in the most vibrant square of the city center and featuring an interior of vintage school desks, blackboards and maps, this is a “school” you’ll be most eager to attend. Enjoy your morning coffee, try pasta recipes and slices of crispy pizza, or perfectly made cocktails, all wrapped in great music tunes. 8,

Pizza By the sea

is coming back watering your mouth. Try pites, desserts, handmade beverages, raki and the fantastic Jamaica coffee. Open from the early morning hours for on the spot delight or take away. 89A, Veikou

str., Koukaki, +302130122913

Experience the Napolitan lifestyle at Νapolitivo,, at Marina Flisvou, just infront of the sea. A modern industrial place with traditional Italian elements has been created to bring you nearer to the ultimate Italian experiences: espresso, homemade gelato, delightful antipasti, special Italian wines and the famous pizza. Enjoy an Aperitivo Italiano with free Antipasti on weekdays from 17:00-22:00 and try the new pizza and pasta entries. Marina Flisvou, Palaio Faliro, +302109840112

French cuisine Artisanal

Open from 11 a.m. for coffee and brunch. As time passes by, you will find selected French dishes. Extra tip: its garden is one of the most beautiful in the area.

Zirini 2, Kifissia, +306936144744 €€€

L’ Abreuvoir

All time classic French cuisine, elegant and stylish. Enjoy the food in its beautiful garden – along side politicians and VIPs.

Map I16 Evangelismos, Xenokratous 51, Kolonaki, +302107229106 €€€€

itALiAn Akakios

The décor elements create a “mystic” atmosphere not typical for a restaurant, rather a monastery, with candles and service dressed as monks. Intriguing. What is more intriguing is its original Greek-style gourmet cuisine. Try the signature dish, pasta with rooster. Also tasteful pizza made with quality Greek ingredients. 1, Agias Triados str.

Paleo Faliro, +302109803100

cupola

Tastes from Italy with the best Italian chef Stefano Rossi, you will be amazed by his delicious carbonara. Also try authentic Italian 68 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

pizza! On the list you will find a wide variety of Greek and Italian wines. Taste delicious cocktails from the most famous bartenders in the city. Next to Panathenaic Stadium, tables outside. Open from Tue to Sat 19.00- 00.30.

On Sun open from 13.00- 19.00 Ephorionos 13, Pagrati, 2114117444 Giannitsopoulou 1, Glyfada, +302108941310 €€

Frankie

Borrowing the name from Frank Sinatra, Frankie stands out on one of the busiest streets of central Athens. Its menu brings the Italian finesse on a plate, with authentic Italian dishes created with regional products that emphasize its farm to table philosophy. Beautiful interior with vintage aesthetics and an open kitchen. Open daily from the morning hours for coffee, brunch or Italian snacks. Also an excellent list of Greek and Italian wine. 42, Skoufa str.,

Kolonaki, +302103647052 €€

Pasteria (La)

Twelve restaurants all over the city. With a rich wine list and a tempting menu from all over Italy.

Maroussi The Mall Athens, +302106198230 Kolonaki +30210 3632032/ Glyfada +302108945085/ Kifisia +302108085607/ Nea Smyrni +302109319146/ PaleoFaliro +302109858880/ Ambelokipi +302106401480/ Agia Paraskevi

Platia Agias Irinis, Monastiraki, +302103251444

street Food everest

There’s one on every corner. A dazzling array of ingredients to choose from and make your own dream sandwich. The same applies for pies, salads, pastry, coffees, beverages. Those in the city’s centre are

usually open 24 hours. €

oven sesame

The most delicious versions of traditional Greek sesame buns, with the most exciting fillings from tasty Greek cheese and cooked meats, to local sausage or spicy mincemeat. Also a large variety of sweet suggestions. Ideal for a filling snack.

Map J8 Monastiraki, Eolou 17, +302103230038 €

Microu Lee

Generous portions and very reasonable prices for Chinese food (the most expensive dish costs €4,90), the best comfort noodles in the world! Note this summer highlights: noodles with chicken and curry, won ton shrimps, fried rice with shrimps, beef soup, sweet potato salad and finally cheesecake with tofu. Map D10 Omonia, Stournari 14,

Exarchia, +302103800672 €

Feyrouz

Mama’s food: delicious soups and excellent homemade lahmacun.

Map I8 Monastiraki, Karori 23 & Eolou, Monastiraki, +302130318060 €

Just Made 33

Pies, burgers, countless sandwiches! A «gourmet» hotspot.

Map J8 Monastiraki, Evagelistrias 33, Monastiraki, +302155258062 €

Metropolis

Popular sandwiches, based on a variety of products from every corner of the country.

Map J9 Syntagma, Voulis 9-11, +302103222122 € ●

Tsiritri Tsiritro The best place for traditional sweets and pies A colourful, vintage pastry shop, inspired from the late 50s in Athens when everyone was more friendly and treated their neighbors with homemade pies, opened its doors recently. In Tsiritri Tsiritro you can enjoy a full breakfast with eggs (cooked as you like), delicious cakes and first quality coffee. On your way home, take with you some of the fresh cooked pies, such as spinach pie, cheese pie or mushroom pie, made the same day with love. Do not leave without tasting the mouth-watering chocolate pie, strawberry pie, chocolate souffle, apple pie, as well as Greek traditional sweets like kantaifi, ravani, nut pie and many more. The best part is that you can combine all of them with some delicious ice cream! â—? Veikou 89Î‘-91, Koukaki, 2130122913 CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 69

4wine lovers Greeks invented drinking parties! By YIannIS DIMOpOUlOS

Kyr Yianni Vineyard, Naoussa

ionysus (Bacchus in Roman), the bad boy of Mt Olympus was the god of wine. Greeks invented symposia (literally drinking parties), and Greece is one of the world’s oldest wine-producing regions, making its own wine for the past 6,500 years. Since the tourism boom in the country during the 1960s, “retsina”, a white wine with resin aroma, has become almost synonymous to Greece and Greek wine. But there is far more than that for wine lovers. In recent years the wine industry in Greece has opened up to younger new participants. Charming wine bars are springing up everywhere, together with a generation of new winemakers, educated in France and the US, taking charge of existing wineries, introducing new methods and reintroducing old forgotten varieties. For many years now, top international varieties have been cultivated with great success. Top sommeliers, wine writers and traders have put Greece firmly on the global “wine map”. There are also many rare regional varieties, which are well worth trying.

3 new wine trends in Greece

As it happens in the rest of the world, in Greece as well there is a selective tendency for consumers when it comes to wine. They look for the “special” ones. Here are some of the Greek labels on the rise: Liatiko Amphorea (Douloufakis), Rhobola (Melissinos), Rhoditis (Tetramythos), Mystirio (Karamolegos), Orange Wine (Anatolikos), Orgion (Sklavou) Xinomavro Rosé (Oenos Nature)

Orange wines are also becoming more popular

70 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

among the aspired wine consumers. It takes the ingredients of white wines and the process of reds to make orange wine, meaning it is made with white grapes varieties that ferment with their skin and seeds still on. The taste however has nothing to do with the regular white wines or the reds. It is unique. Sour and somewhat dry and fruity and strong. Some of the most promising Greek labels are: • ΜΕΤΑ 2011, Pieria Eratini (Pieria Malagouzia) • Mithymneon Portokali -Yiannis Lambrou (Lesbos Hydiriotiko) • Tatsis Rhoditis (Goumenissa)

Tides have also turned for some rare Greek varieties, some of which we may have never heard before and some, lost in time and forgotten, have “flourished” again due to the efforts of devoted Greek winemakers. As such, it is worth looking for: Villana, Vidiano, Limniona, Liatiko, Kydonitsa, Plito, Mavrotragano, Monemvasia, Negoska. Some of the best producers and their top wines are listed below. A bottle of good white wine in the liqueur stores costs between €1220, and a bottle of red €15-30.

The most important indigenous Greek wine grapes

White varieties Assyrtico: The finest white grape from the Island of Santorini, and possibly the cheapest top white wine in the world. Mineral with high acidity, ages well. Try to distinguish an aged assyrtiko to a Chablis Grand Cru. Malagousia: Aromatic, with a scent of ripe peaches, apricots and green pepper. Moschofilero: A sweet, aromatic grape, the Greek Gewurztraminer! Red varieties Agiorgitico: Rich, deeply coloured, ages well. Xinomavro: Greece’s answer to Barolo, needs time to develop.

Some of the top producers

Wine resto By the Glass This hot spot for wine lovers offers one of the most updated and exciting wine lists in the city, in a cozy beautiful atrium. You may choose from 250 different wine labels including Greek and international varieties. More than 50 of them are served by the glass. They also serve coffee, spirits and food. From early in the morning till late at night. Map M11 Syntagma, G. Souri 3 & Philellinon, +302103232560 €€

Harvest This is a must-stop spot when strolling around the historic city center. Make time for a relaxing morning coffee or a brunch and later on you can enjoy inspired tapas dishes or some other high-spirited recipes that reveal the endless culinary creativity of the Spanish cuisine. Interesting wine list for pairing and lovely cocktails. 64, Aeolou & Evripidou str., Athens, +302130252284 Heteroclito Wines from Greek producers, good prices and tasty side-dishes with cheese and cold cuts. Every day from 18:00 till late. Map K9 Syntagma, Fokionos 2 & Petraki, +302103239406 €

L’ Audrion Cave a manger with eye-catching decoration and tables at the most atmospheric square of Plaka. The French chef Alain Parodi creates exquisite dishes and the variety of French cheese and cold cuts is impressive. The walk-in cellar contains "diamonds" of the French vineyard. Filomoussou Eterias square 3, Plaka, +302103241193

Vintage In the historical centre of Athens you will find an incredible wine bar. Discover more than 500 labels of Greek and worldwide vineyards. Don’t miss out their delicious cuisine. If you are having trouble choosing the right wine do not hesitate to ask the owner Panos, he is really friendly and helpful. Mitropoleos 66-68, +30213 0296570, www.vintagewinebistro.com €€

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Aivalis, Alpha Estate, Antonopoulos, Arghyros, Biblia Chora, Boutaris, Driopi, Douloufakis, Gaia, Gerovassiliou, Hatzidakis, Hatzimichalis, Katogi Strofilia, Katsaros, Kir-Yanni, Manousakis, Mercouri, Papaioannou, Pavlidis, Samos, Sigalas, Skouras, Sklavos, Thimiopoulos, Tselepos.

My favourite White wines Alpha Estate: Sauvignon Blanc Antonopoulos: Chardonnay Anax Argyros: Vareli Assyrtico, Ktima Biblia Chora: Ovilos Boutaris: Kalisti Reserve Gaia: Τhalassitis, Wild ferment Assyrtico Gerovassiliou: Chardonnay, Malagousia Hatzidakis: Nihteri, Louros Katsaros: Chardonnay Kir-Yanni: Samaropetra Manousakis: Roussanne Mercouri: Malvasia Sigalas: Nihteri, Cavalieros Skouras: Viognier Eclectique Sklavos: Robola Red wines Aivalis: Monopati Alpha Estate: Xinomavro Unfiltered, Alpha 1 Antonopoulos: Nea Dris Avantis: Collection Syrah Biblia Chora: Ovilos Boutaris: Classic Grand Reserve, 1879 Driopi: Agiorgitico Gaia: Agiorgitico Gerovassiliou: Avaton, Syrah Karydas: Xinomavro Katogi Strofilia: Ktima Averof Kir-Yanni: Diaporos, Blue Fox Manousakis: Syrah Mercouri: Refosco Papaioannou: Mikroklima, Terroir Sigalas: Mavrotragano Skouras: Solera aged Labyrinth, Megas Oinos Thimiopoulos: New age Xinomavro Tselepos: Kokkinomylos Sweet wines Vinsanto: Sun dried grapes from Santorini. These wines have the complexity of olorosos and Tokajs. Top producers: Argiros and Sigalas. Mavrodaphne: Sweet fortified wines. Best old like Banyls. Muscat: Sweet wines from Samos island. ●

Sweet Tastes

Traditional Greek pastries are sweet, rich and soaked in flavour By NENELA GEORGELE, KATERINA VNATSIOU - Photo: ALKIS KALOUdIS

-14 Pagoto

You can’t imagine summer without ice cream, or living without ice cream for that matter. This is a true heaven for you then, offering the real –like the old days- taste of chilled flavors wrapped in artisan philosophy. All made with fresh milk processed in small producers’ farms, the fruits fresh and juicy as well, the nuts perfectly roasted. You will choose among 33 different flavors of ice cream and sorbet topped with what your heart desires, from chocolate syrup to dry superfoods and spoon sweets.

3, Athinaidos str., central Athens, 2130889072

Chatzis

Traditional sweet tastes since 1908. Try the baklava, the cream pie (galaktoboureko) and ekmek kantaifi with butter made from buffalo milk. Map K10

Syntagma, Mitropoleos 5, +302103222647

Balaclavas by Stelios Parliaros - Sweet Alchemy 76 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

Fresh

Famous for its wonderful truffles and unbeatable bowl - profiterole, with Crème Patissiere with strawberry and more. Try the absolute hit, the square chocolate cake, solid black chocolate.

Map J16 Syntagma, P. Ioakeim 9, Kolonaki, +302107293453, with 11 other stores in Athens

Sweet Alchemy

The pastry chef who has changed the face of confectionary in Greece, Stelios Parliaros, studied art and pastry-making in France. Author of eight books, since 2008 Parliaros has hosted the weekly Greek TV show “Sweet Alchemies”. He has rightfully earned the title of the top Greek chef pâtissier.

Map K15 Evangelismos, Irodotou 24, Kolonaki, +302107240205

ZONAR’S Legendary Zonar’s has been a trademark and meeting point for the Athenian bourgeois over decades. Recently renewed by some of Greece’s top designers and professionals. Open all day with cofee, tea, snacks and traditional as well as creative dishes and sushi.

Map J11 Syntagma, Voukourestiou 9 & Panepistimiou, +302103251430 €€€

Ta Serbetia tou Psyrri

The overwhelming aromas of cinnamon, sugar and butter will guide you through the narrow streets to the oldest pastry shop of the historic neighborhood of Psyrri. discover more than 50 delightful pastries - cheesecake, ekmek

Ta serbetia stou Psirri One of the most delicious patisseries in the city Undoubtfully, this is one of the sweetest corners in the center of Athens. The story begins 23 years ago when a Greek family decided to turn its passion about sweets into a business. Today, Ta Serbetia tou Psirri remains a family business making traditional Greek desserts with a twist. You have to taste the ª Love Dessertº (a moist, tender chocolate cake with extra praline syrup), ª the red velvet cakeº or the traditional orange pie. These are the best sellers sweets that attract people from all around Athens, but if this is your first time here, don' t leave without a bite of the fluffiest carrot cake you will ever taste, the nuts pie (traditional Greek dessert), the Bananato (big pieces of cookies and pieces of fresh bananas dipped in melt chocolate) or the kiunefe (also a traditional Greek-Turkish dessert). Every single dessert is prepared in the kitchen behind the shop on a daily basis and fills all the around streets with the smell of fresh baked goodies. That' s why is so hard to resist in these divine sweets!

Aischylou 3, Psirri, (+30) 210 3245862, www.serbetia.gr, Fb: @serbetia CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 77

Greek Delights

kadaifi and traditional Greek sweet treats with a twist – all prepared daily with top quality ingredients. You should definitely try the “Love Dessert”. 3, Aeshylou str., Psyrri,

+302103245862

Varsos

Long and rich tradition in sweets. Specialties include ryzogalo (creamy rice pudding topped with a sprinkle of cinnamon) and delicious tsoureki.

Kassaveti 5, Kifissia, +302108012472

For more than 30 years an homage to authentic pastry making, serving hand-made ice creams made with 100% fresh milk and top quality ingredients -you can choose from the vast range of 100 flavors- and “dreams come true” international sweet tastes, such as cheesecakes, velvet-like mousse, puffy soufflé and traditional Greek options, like orange pies, ryzogalo and creamy custard pie. One of the four Zuccherino shops will suit

-14, Ice Cream Cafe

you perfectly: 80, Mitropoleos str., +302103213015/ Proteos & Sirinon 48 Str., Paleo Faliro, 2109845238 / Agiou Alexandrou 41 & Naiadon, Paleo Faliro, 2109830049 / 2nd Maiou 12, Platia Neas Smyrnis, +302109357590 ●

Photo: Giovanna Stefanou

Zuccherino

Halvas A fudge made with sesame seed paste, sesame oil and sugar. It is offered as a dessert in many tavernas, after the end of a meal. Baclavas Nuts, almonds, cinnamon, cloves and syrup. One of the most popular pastry desserts. Galaktoboureko Another popular sweet. A pie filled with custard and then doused in vanilla syrup. Loukoumades Deep fried little doughnuts served with honey, syrup or ice cream. Glyka koutaliou Various Greek fruits preserved in thick sugary syrup. They come in small jars and are an ideal gift for friends back home. Ryzogalo Rice pudding made of rice boiled in milk, sugar and vanilla, sprinkled with cinnamon. You can find it in dairies and super markets. Diples Deep fried honey rolls served with nuts.

Fresh ice cream, like the one you enjoyed as kids Ice cream café “-14”, is located in the heart of Athens’ center, just a few steps away from the Church of Panagia Kapnikarea, at Ermou Str. Serves fresh made artisan ice cream, in a variety of flavors, made from fresh Greek milk of small manufactures and fresh fruits. Its ice cream making philosophy is based on the memory of how ice cream used to taste back in the years when no extras were added. The ice cream is served

78 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

along with a range of desserts, with iced coffee or with fresh squeezed fruit juices. Don’t miss the semolina halvah with cinnamon ice cream. ● Athinaidos Str. 3, Athens, +302130889072, www.pagoto-14.gr, Fb: @pagotominus14, Insta: icecream_minus14athens

Zuccherino Irresistible sweets and the best ice creams in town Rumors say that there is no one who has been left uninhibited of the caramel banoffee, the chocolate caprice and the crisp millefeuille. And these are just three of the rich flavors of Zuccherino sweets. The pastry shops that Sweet Lovers of this city not only prefer for their imagination but also for the excellent raw materials they use in each of their products. The most beloved though, is Zuccherino ice cream, made daily by 100% Greek fresh milk. With 120 (!) different flavors to choose from, you’ll find whatever flavor of ice cream you may think. In shop windows you will find all-time classic flavors, cool sorbetto

and special flavors that have even been based on many of the recipes of famous Zuccherino sweets. Best seller, however, will always be the death by chocolate ice cream. Yeah, it’s just as damn it sounds... Proteos & Seirinon 48, Paleo Faliro, 2109845238 / Agiou Alexandrou 41 & Naiadon 49, 2109830049 / 2as Maiou 12, Nea Smirni Square, 2109357590 / Mitropoleos 80, Monastiraki, 2103213015 www.zuccherino.gr Fb: Zuccherino Ζαχαροπλαστείο, Instagram: @zuccherino.gr

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 79

Efimerida ATH

Vissarionos 9 & Sina 6 St, Drink gallery, wine bar, urban art gallery, an unpremeditated place to be for all enthusiasts of freestyle in both attitude and essence. Decorated by a renowned artist, this is a more than convenient 24 hour spot, servicing breakfasts, brunches, lunches, fingerfood, along the lines of bright young people. From good coffee to indie music to constantly renewed photo and art exhibitions, this is a frequent meeting point for most of Athens downtown. A specialized cocktail summer list, frequently renovated, a huge variety of beers, a bar with tons of attitude. www.facebook.com/EfimeridaATH

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CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 81

Bars& Clubs

Athens: classical by day & cosmopolitan by night By ElEni BEziriAnoglou, ElizA SynAdinou Photo: THAnASSiS KArATzAS

thens is the city of enjoying nightlife. Visitors are always welcome to spend crazy nights out. Especially, in the centre of Athens you can find many hot spots with a view or unique bars with special cocktails or clubs for partying till the sun comes up. Come on, come and join us!

DOWNTOWN 42 A cozy, elegant and classy cocktail bar

The Bank Job Located only 5 to 10

minutes walk from Monastiraki and Syntagma, Kolokotroni street is the city's hot spot and Bank Job is one of its most popular cocktail bars thanks to its peculiar cocktail list. This year, you can discover Athens and its world famous museums via the inspired recipes of Bank Job's 14 new cocktails. Kolokotroni 13, Athens, fb: thebankjobathens

GAZI - VOTANIKOS KERAMEIKOS Bios A multi lever building full of arts, drinks

where you can enjoy homemade blends and Greek flavors. You can also enjoy your drink at the quiet pedestrian street where the bar is located. The menu changes every month. Hip hop, jazz, soul music. Map J10 Syntagma, Kolokotroni 3, Syntagma, +302130052153

and music. It is highly recommended for party’s. It hosts very often famous djs, live performances, art and new-media exhibitions. Also you can enjoy your drink at the roof garden. Map I3 Kerameikos,

Bartesera A unique place that theatre

Gazarte Sophisticated lounge space on

performances and unique exhibitions take place. If you choose to sit outside you can enjoy your wine while looking at the sky. You can also have a snack or a sweet from pure Greek products. Map J9

Syntagma, Kolokotroni 25, Syntagma, +302103229805

Drunk Sinatra If you look for a place to enjoy your drink while listen to jazz and swing music this is the perfect place. The decoration is really unique and of course there are many photos of great Sinatra. One of the most popular places in town especially in the summer as the bar is located in a pedestrian street. Map J9 Syntagma, Thisseos 16, Syntagma, +302103313733

garden of music

Mojo Club has been a trademark of the Athenian clubbing scene for almost 25 years, after all it is widely known as the city’s “garden of music”. Rock, soul, funky tunes and the irresistible scents of summer in a mix from morning till dawn. 36, Papadiamantopoulou str., Ilissia, 2107757033 82 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

Pireos 84, Kerameikos, +302103425335

three levels. At the first floor you can enjoy finger food and terrific cocktails. Its summer terrace attracts visitors from all around the city. The top floor hosts unique events and exhibitions. Map I1

PLAKA - MONASTIRAKI THISSIO - PETRALONA

The first gay friendly bar in Athens includes: low prices, very friendly atmosphere, also hosts exhibitions.

Map J1 Keramikos, Falesias 12, Votanikos, +306946282845

Noiz

Probably the best known club for girls who are looking for girls, also very welcoming to every other sexuality.

Shamone

Fun club, theme nights, drag shows, happy ambiance.

Six d.o.g.s An art bar with full of electronic

Keramikos, Konstantinoupoleos 46, Gazi, +302103450144

music, exhibitions and a wonderful rear-garden where you can enjoy your drink or cocktail. Map J7

Monastiraki, Avramiotou 6-8, Monastiraki, +302103210510

Tiki Athens Tiki is the first exotica bar in athens. Many unique events take place at TIKI. Music includes mixing of new and oldest pieces.

Greek Bar dictionary

Akropoli, Falirou 15, Makrigianni, +302109236908

Upopa Epops Spirits and fresh ingridients in a talk of the town bar that is a flash back in old Athens. Map K1 Kerameikos, Alkminis 7, Pe-

Shot: sfinaki low quality alcohol beverage: bomba Straight drink: sketo Cheers: ya mas! Free drink (usually offered by the barman or another customer): kerasma

tralona, +302121055214

ATHENS SEAfRONT Akrotiri Club Restaurant

Decorated in black and white, with fluorescent notes, echoing mainstream disco and house

Big Bar

Map H1 Keramikos, Konstantinoupoleos 78, Gazi +302103467850

Kerameikos, Voutadon 32-34, Gazi, +302103460347

Map Q7

GAy Friendly

The Bank Job

Athens’ treasures in 14 cocktails Located only 5 to 10 minutes walk from Monastiraki and Syntagma, Kolokotroni street is the city’s hot spot and Bank Job is one of its most popular cocktail bars thanks to its peculiar cocktail list. You see, there are treasures of great value around Bank Job and you learn everything about them and their story in the 14 new amazing cocktails of the bar. Discover Athens and its world famous museums via the inspired recipes of Bank Job’s new cocktail list. ● Kolokotroni 13, Athens, fb: thebankjobathens

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Fine Drinking in Athens

Georgiou B’5, Agios Kosmas Beach, +302109859148

Island The most famous

“island” in Athens. A modern club-restaurant that captures the spirit of the Cyclades. Frozen cocktails, Mediterannean cuisine, lounge music, dance parties, lots of celebrities. 27th km Athens-Sounio

Road, Varkiza, +302109653563-4

Piraeus Che Cocktails and latin

American dishes in a mexicanlike hacienda at a popular terrace. Karaiskou 151,

+202104296660

Beluga Unique modern-

retro décor, open from early in the morning till late at night with delicious coffee, Mediterranean cuisine, a varied wine and cocktail list combined with swing jazz sounds. Defteras

Merarchias 8-10, Piraeus, +302104116505 ●

Mojo

The Athenian bartending community is celebrating moments of glory, because those, who are part of this scene, are young with real passion for their job and at the same time they have experience and great knowledge about drinking. Excellent drinks are offered everywhere, while in the narrow streets of the historical center you will find two wellknown Athenian bars, The Clumsies (Praxitelous 30, 2103232682) and Baba au Rum (Kleitiou 6, 2117109140), which are among the 50 best in the world. You can also drink special Cocktails with Greek spirits and herbs.

music. It offers Mediterranean cuisine and attracts a fashionable crowd. Vassileos

The musical garden of Athens With 25 years of writing history in the nightlife of Athens, it is still a bench mark. Its beautiful and breezy yard has been named as the musical garden of Athens, its cellar has one of the biggest varieties in the city and there is no shortage of rock, soul and funk music. Mojo opens its doors at 9 every morning and serves quality coffee and parties until early morning while until 9pm the already low prices on drinks and coctails are even lower. If you haven't been to Mojo, you should already be on your way there! Papadiamantopoulou 36, Ilissia Tel: 2107757033, Facebook: Mojo Club

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Other Athenian Nightlife Districts Panormou Square (Map A25,

Panormou)

Also known as “The island of Athens”, because of its open-air bars. Wee dram (+302106916509) is an authentic scottish pub, Sensimilia and Santa Botella (+302106981032) are classical choices in the area.

Karitsi Square (Map J10

Syntatgma)

Once the ultimate hipster hotspot, now struggling to hold its position, nevertheless still an option with quality choices. Probably the best is the Gin Joint, with more than 65 varieties of Gin (+302103218646), Tall's Toy Bar is a tiny favourite (+302130448864), and PairiDaeza is the oldest bar on the square (+302103210233).

Mavili (Map F22,

Ambelokipi)

Historic Mavili Square will reward you if you are looking for a slightly sophisticated summer hangout. Briki, the place to be after 1:00 a.m. Legendary bar with loyal patrons, always crowded. A hub for the city’s thirty somethings. Dorileou 6, Mavili sq., +302106452380 Kyrios, very classy decoration, expensive glasses, jazzy music. Also serves food. Dorileou 2, Mavili sq., +302106400615 Loras, a classic option of the Athenian nightlife. Journalists meeting point, excellent quality of alcohol. Soutsou 7, Mavili sq., +302106428473

Barley Cargo

The best Beer House in central Athens Located in the centre of Athens, this is the most famous Beer House in town. A Beer Bar with industrial “Cargo” decoration, a beer wall, wooden-barrel tables and a huge glass front with a view to passers by walking up and down in Kolokotroni, the street that never sleeps. Great variety of “Barley” with over 300 beer choices, 140+ from Greek microbreweries and 17 on tap served “fresh” straight from the bar-freezing departments. There is a take away option as well! The housemade snacks with low prices vary from fresh mushrooms, Cretan cheese, chicken pies marinated with beer n’ Barley Burger and are all Greek region delicacies! Live concerts take place too. Do try their extraordinary Beer Cocktails! 6 Kolokotroni St, Syntagma, (+30) 210 3230445, Fb: @BarleyCargo

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Greek Summer By ELIZA SYNADINOU, ERO PARTSAKOULAKI, NIKOS PAPAILIOU, LENA HOURMOYZI, ELENI BEZIRIANOGLOU, GEORGIA SKAMAGA Photo: MARINA VERNIKOS

Myconos A

Jetsettersâ€™ paradise

cross between Capri and Ibiza (but with a very Cycladic feel), Mykonos boasts of the best beaches in the country, the craziest nightlife and the most exclusive lifestyle. Celebrities from all over the Platis Gialos 86 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

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world, gays and wannabes flood the island every summer. They sunbathe their days away on their prebooked sunbeds and their nights squeezing pass each other in the narrow streets of the picturesque village, moving between bars and clubs. Bring along the best pieces of your wardrobe (preferably white), all your energy and credit cards. The fact that the world famous Japanese restaurant Nobu set up shop first in Mykonos and a few years later in Athens says a lot about the kind of holiday you should expect there.

Reasons to visit Mykonos

First of all for its incredible beaches, you will taste delicious gourmet dishes from famous chefs and you will stay at the most cosmopolitan hotels. It has 88 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

a variety of trendy shops, notorious nightlife and interesting galleries. If you are still wondering why is so crowded every year think of the beautiful alleys, the white Cycladic houses, the windmills and the majestic sunset. If you dream of drinking shots with Kate Moss or swimming in the crystal clear blue waters next to Matthew McConaughey, this is the place to be. Chora Where to swim, eat, drink and enjoy nighlife in Chora Agia Anna-Paragka: Swim at the famous sandy beach at the old port in Chora. Old Port: At Roca Cookery (+302289022955) mama’s plates by Mimis Foukas (you already know him from Sea Satin), at the classical tavern Nikos (+302289024320) and for fresh fish at Kounela (+302289028220). School of Fine Arts: At Belvedere

Municipality: 2289022201 Police Station : 2289022716 Port Authority: 2289022218 Taxi: 2289022400 Healthcare Center: 2289023994

Hotel (+302289025122) the famous restaurant Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, Matsuhisa Mykonos (2289025122) and at Thea, modern Mediterranean cuisine of Chef Nikos Zervos. Little Venice: On Alefkandras square eat at the historical tavern Alefkandra (+302289022450) which is getting 60 years old this year, also the organic and healthy Nice ’n’ Easy (+302289025421) cuisine of the famous Chef Christos Athanasiadis. Recently opened, the restaurant Spala (+302289025421) follows the Nice’n’Easy philosophy of farm to table, but with a little twist. Here you can find surf and turf, meaning a combination of meat and fish or *

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 89

seafood, all on the same dish, tied harmoniously. A bit further the Mamalouka (+302289023505) with the charming courtyard and its Mediterranean cuisine and Scarpa (+302289023294) where you can listen to house music and join the party. Also, the all day cafĂŠ bar Vicolo (+302289026551). Semeli Bar (+302289026505) is open from early morning for tasty omelettes and ouzo, while on the top floor youâ€™ll find the London style VIP Club Toy Room with R&B music. Enjoy the sunset at the legendary bar Caprice which has recently been transferred a bit further from its old location, where now is the new location of Baos, an ethnic, rock, cocktail bar (+302289026505). Under the windmills eat at the best grill of the island at Sea Satin (+302289024676). On the beach: The menu at the restaurant Natura at Leto Hotel (+302289022207) is edited by Chef Giorgos Koumpouris, and of course the famous Perouvian bar restaurant Nikkei (+306937900201) from Giorgos Konstantinou and its team is situated at Agias Kyriakis square. Aleomandra region: Chef Giorgos Iakovidis and Anthos restaurant (+302289079188) housed at Kirini My Mykonos Retreat is a great choice.

Paraga 90 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

Photo: MARINA VERNIKOS

Square of Agia Moni (Paraportiani): On this square is located one of the most famous bars of the island Jackie Oh by Michael and Carsten (+302289077298), a straight friendly bar combined with unforgettable drag shows (every night at 2:00) Also the live club 4711 (+306936513931). *

Jackie O' Mykonos

Crazy nights in a special spot One of the most iconic Beach Clubs and Restaurants of Mykonos, which has cosmopolitan character representing its legendary name. It is located high on the rock and it provides a breathtaking view of Super Paradise beach. JackieO΄is one of the Mykonos’ musts since many years. The details in decoration, the great sculptures, the pool with the panoramic view and the stairs that drive you immediately to Super Paradise, are only some of the reasons why you should get there.

A journey in taste The awardwinning cuisine of Christoforos Peskias is a gastronomic experience by itself. With traditional Cycladic flavors alongside some elements of Western and Eastern cuisine, it combines past, present and future, all together in an excellent way.

Beach Club «The sky is yours» in this beach bar, as you have next to you the most sensational beach of the island, Jacuzzi and a pool to enjoy your Cocktails, while Priscilla will entertain you at the same time. Some of the most epic parties of the Mykonian nightlife have been hosted here, in the historical club that offers you a 360 degrees view. This year, JackieO’ promises even more crazy nights with three special events to stand out!

Summer parties ● On 29/7 JackieO΄ organizes birthday party with Jodie Harsh on Decks ● On 6/8 Anna Vissi’s concert will held in JackieO΄ Beach Club ● On 16/8 JackieO΄ celebrates the Madonna’s 60 years with a great tribute to her career

● Super Paradise beach, 2289 077298, www.jackieomykonos.com

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Lakka: Ivan’s italian Sale & Pepe (+302289024207), the postmodern tavern Bakalo (+302289078121) with Giannis Gavalas at the menu, definately the Mediterraneo and Samuele’s minimal Sushi Med next to it and Funky Kitchen (+302289027272) with chef Pavlos Grivas and mediterranean cuisine with a twist. Tria Pigadia: The Astra club has been one of the hottest clubs for the last 30 years with famous Athenian dj’s on the decks. At the road of Enoplon Dinameon the champagne & cocktail bar Queen (+306946618539) and nearby Louis Vuitton the club BonBonniere (+306980611154) straight from London and New York. Kalogera: The famous asian Ling Ling by Hakkasan (+302289022515), right where Filippis used to be. At M-eating eat Mediterranean cuisine (+302289078550) of chef Panagiotis Menandros, the Kalita (+302289027102) with greek creative cuisine of chef Vaios Ntoutsias. Go to Eva’s garden (+302289022160) where miss Eleni cooks for more 92 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

than 30 years, tasty traditional greek food. The all year Maereio (+302289028825) for greek cuisine. At Goumeniou square The Famillia (+302289078638), Allegro/ Makris Gyalos (+302289025030) with topic Mediterranean cuisine, at Nautilus (+302289027100) Greek Mediterranean and Tapas, at the small wine bar Vino’s (+302289028622) edited by 2Eaters Athinagoras Kostakos & Theodosis Kakoutis. Also the timeless Maison de Katrin (+302289022169) at Nikiou. Matogiannia: Fotis Segoulopoulos just launched Artisanal (+302289026217) and Chef Dimitris Dimitriadis creates greek mediterranean dishes. Lotus (+302289022881) for mixed Mediterranean cuisine. Breakfast and light lunch at Aroma café (+302289027148), fusion Mediterranean cuisine at the cosmopolitan bar-reastaurant Interni (+302289026333). Dafraki: At the small all day Lady Finger (+302289024231) of Andronikos hotel, taste Greek

creative cuisine. Next to Panarcha church: At the streak house Uno Con Carne (+302289024020) with a VIP room, sushi tapas bar and music by famous Djs. Agrinera Area: At the Thailandfusion Mr Pug (+302289077771) with Chef Giorgos Venieris. Polykandrioti: The historical Remezzo (+302289025700) transformed to an excellent restaurant. Gialos: Bakogias (+302289023552) has really tasty fried food. The all

CINE MANTO

You will find one of the most beautiful open cinemas of the world at Andronikou street, inside a secret garden. Lots of interesting presentations, documentary viewings and conferences take place here, while at the Cine Manto café-restaurant you can enjoy coffee, breakfast and light lunch. +302289026165, www.cinemanto.gr

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EK GREMER SUM Upload your favourite moments on instagram using the hashtag #athensvoice

day Alegro, the napoliten Catari (+30228 9078571) and the Guzel Stage Club - 9 Muses (+306944231999, +306942400897). Mado Square: At Mama’s Cuisine (+302289400205) meat and burgers in american style, Kalamaki Mykonos for a good greek souvlaki and of course the all time classic-all day long Everest (+302289022245). Agiou Ioannou: Ninnolo (+302289300998) for brunch and 100% homemade ice cream. Also in Ano Mera (+302289773836). Evaggelistraki: Go to Casa Dolce for delicious ice cream (+302289110714) by Nikos Koukiasa. Tourlos: Traditional greek tavern Mathios (+302289022344). Outside of Chora: Tagoo and Kiku (+302289020100) and for japanese cuisine at Cavo Tagoo (2289020100).

(+302289077298) at Super Paradise beach. Chanel, Hermès and Dsquared2 boutiques for those who know. Chanel, Hermès and Dsquared2 boutiques for those who know. At Matogianna you will find the best jewelry shop of the Greek designer MINAS (Ag. Kyriakis square, +302289027320) choose your rock jewel, wear it and keep it forever. At Agiou Efthimiou str. you will find Calzedonia beachwear. At Andronikou str., Maurizio (+302289024516) has the best kimonos and handmade greek accessories. Don’t forget to taste the first myconian beer Mikonu, by the young brewers Angelos Ferus, Janos Bako and the winemaker Giannis Paraskevopoulos. You will find their microbrewery at the location Argyraina (+302289077912).

Shopping Therapy

Where to stay

Shop at the luxury shopping center of Nammos at Psarou beach, a brand new shop with exclusively KITON (for women and men) (+302289022488). You will find a variety of labels at the boutique of Jackie O 94 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

Mykonos Theoxenia (+302289022230), the renovated historic hotel of Aris Konstantinidis at Kato Mili. Matogianni Hotel (+302289022217) with the elegant White Bar, Filippi (+302289022294), Mykonian K Hotels

- Korali (+302289022107), Kyma (+302289023415), Νaia (+302289022108), Semeli (+302289027466), Cavo Tango (+302289020100), Rochari (+302289023107), Karbonaki (+302289024124), Kouneni (+302289079070), Boheme (+302289023300) at Drafaki, Οstraco Suites (+302289023396), Andronikos (+302289024231), Livin (+302289023474), Οstraco Suites (+302289023396), Aletro Cottage Houses (+302289025887) at Agia Sophia, Apanema Resort (+302289028590), Aelia Mykonos (+306948521765).

Fine Arts

The “Dio Choria” cultural platform (+302289026429) of the art historian Marina Vranopoulou is housed in a two-storeyed neoclassical building at Panagia Panachra square. A residency / exhibition space with invited artists who live and create artworks inspired by the island. This year, two exhibitions are hosted until August 1st: Serbian artist Maja Djordjevic’s second soloist and American Matthew Palladino, participant in the gallery's hosting program.

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EK GREMER SUM Kapopoulos Fine Arts (15, Enoplon Dinameon str., +302289027005) presents for the first time in Greece, a series of artworks by the worldwide known artist Mr. Brainwash (until 26/7).

See the rest of the island

In Mykonos you can party even on the beach. Visit luxury beaches combined with clean crystal waters and delight restaurants. Υou can enjoy your feast lunch while you are chilling on your sea bed (sushi on the beach is the latest hot trend). Ano Mera: Excellent food at La Cucina Di Daniele (+302289071513), Apostolis (+302289071760), To Steki tou Proedrou (+302289071925) and the tavern of Vangelis (+30228 9071577). Τsaf (+302289071887) is great for ouzo and seafood and there is also Fisherman - Giorgos & Marina (+302289071405). You can taste the famous myconian cheese at the Kopanisti Laboratory (+302289071425).

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West Take a swim at the sandy beaches of Agios Stefanos, Megali Ammos, Korfos Rihos, Agios Ioannis-Diakoftis and Kapari. Choulakia is a pebbled beach. You may stay at Grace (+302289020000), Mykonian Mare (+302289022953), Princes of Mykonos (+302289023806), Mykonos Waves Beach House & Suites (+302289026402), Hippie Chic (+302289022901), Apollonia Resort (+302289027890), Saint John Hotel Villas & Spa (+302289028752) and Bill & Coo Coast Suites (+302289026292). If you ’re feeling hungry there are many options: all day beach bar Saint Stefanos (+302289078961), tavern Petran (+302289025475) until 10 pm, Reeza at the Rocabella Hotel (+302289028930), Pili Beach Restaurant (+302289026660) with fine Mediterranean cuisine, Hippie Fish (+302289023547), Bill & Coo Coast and Gastronomy Project (+302289026660) with Chef Dinos Fotinakis.

South Swim: Ornos is a sandy super luxury with cosmopolitan hotels and restaurants, hot spot of surfers, one of the biggest bay of the island. Psarou is also cosmopolitan with the world famous beach bar Nammos (+302289022440). Paradise beach, literally a paradise ideal for clubbers and nudists with its beach parties and restaurants. Paraga with the white sand and the big ideal for diving rock in the middle. Super Paradise, probably the most famous beach of the island. Also the quiet Agrari, the gay friendly Elia, the sandy Kalo Livadi, the surfer’s Kalafatis, Agia Anna, Lia and Loulos. Eat, drink, party: MyAmmos Lounge Bar, Mediterraneanfusion Kuzina (+302289026434), fusion and sushi Pasaji Mykonos, Konstantis (+302289022837), Seaside cuisine bar Aperanto Galazio (+302289027991), Apagio (+302289024344) with Mediterranean * cuisine, hot spot Buddha Bar

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Beach (+302289023220), La Μeduse (+302289024094), Avli tou Thodori (+302289078100), Blue Myth (+302289022127), Yialo Yialo (+302289078916), Bonatsa (+302289028048) for sushi, DK Oyster Bar & Restaurant (+302289025128) for excellent seafood and champagne on the beach, gourmet Efisia Restaurant (+302289024166), Kalua bar (+302289023397), all day pool bar Sueno (+302289025364), family tavern Tassos (+302289023002), Scorpios Beach Club (+302289029250) with resident DJ's, Tropicana club (+302289023582), Guapaloca (+306973016311), Tru Paradise beach club and restaurant (+306949802000), for

PARTY ON THE BEACH

98 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

indian at Indian Palace Mykonos (+302289078044, +306940799944), until dawn at night club Cavo Paradiso (+302289027205, +306948504989), beach bar Super Paradise (+302289023023), Jackie O Beach Club (+302289077298, +306973010981), Agrari Beach bar and Restaurant (+302289071295), casual chic resort Myconian Utopia (+302289076060), hip Sol y Μar (+302289071745) dj bar and restaurant with Mediterranean creative cuisine and sushi. New super arrival the Lohan Beach House Mykonos (+302289072480) with chef Alsi Sinanaj, beach bar-restaurant Τhalassa (+302289072081) for fish, Italian Βandanna (+302289071800), fish tavern Markos & Vasso (+302289071771), greek creative cuisine at Nesaea (+302289072130), Spilia Seaside Restaurant (+302289071205, +306949449729) for fresh seafood lobster pasta, all day beach bar restaurant Saint Anna Beach (+306934499888), Liasti (+302289072150). Stay: KENSHO Luxury Hotel (+302289078788), Mykonos Ammos (+302289022600), Mykonos Blanc (+302289027618), Santa Marina Resort & Villas (+302289023220) with heliport, Villa del Sol (+302289022861), Kivotos

(+302289024094) with private beach and boat for daily cruises, Paraga Beach Hostel & Camping (+302289025915), bohemian chic hotel San Giorgio (+302289027474), Lyo Boutique Resort (+302289022535), Arte & Mare Suites Hotel (+302289072002), Εlia Studios (+302289071204), Pietra Mare (+302289071152), Archipelagos (+302289072012), Sea Side Studios & Houses (+306974807670), Αnastasia Village (+302289071205). North Swim: Merhias, Fokos, Agios Sostis ideal for nudists, Ftelia, classic choice for windsurfers, Lia is gay friendly and of course Panormos, bohemian an chilling, friendly to nudists. Eat: Kiki’s reastaurant, Ftelia (+302289072466), Alemagou beach bar (+302289071339) for meat and seafood, Liasti (+302289072150), Fokos tavern (+306945828561), Farma (+302289072361) with exclusively local products, Principaute de Mykonos (+302289077184) with creative Mediterranean cuisine and Panormos Mykonos (+302289077184). Stay: Panormos Village (+302289025182), Yakinthos (+302289029183). ●

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Spetses Tiny, lovely with great naval history

petses is a small island just two hours away from Athens, so it’s a great choice for short holidays. A lovely island of the Saronic Gulf, Spetses island is a popular weekend destination due to its closeness to Athens. In the Medieval times, the island flourished with trade and the locals constructed elegant mansions that survive till today. When the Greek Revolution of 1821 broke out, the local commercial ships were turned into military ships and contributed to setting the country free. The grand captain mansions eloquent narrators of its glorious history and naval tradition, the narrow cobbled streets, the horse carriages jingling up the scenic stone paths, the gardens bursting with colour, the pine forests, the hills, the romantic coves and the crystal clear waters, its artistic ambience – for years a popular destination among artists and intellectuals, the old harbor and the enchanting Dapia, its vibrant

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nightlife and its celebrated cuisine, make Spetses an uncontested lure for visitors. There are many sites that you have to go if you visit Spetses and learn about the great naval history of the island. Some of these are...

The House of Bouboulina

Built around the end of the 17th century, the building is shaped like a Π, a detail which at that time indicated the importance of the owner. Bouboulina was a heroine that played a significant role in the 1821 War of Independence. Visit her house, which now operates as a museum to admire its woodcarved Florentine ceiling, 18th and 19th century furniture, interesting collection of old weapons, fine porcelain and rare books.

The House of Hatzigiannis Mexis

Today the house hosts a museum exhibiting relics from

Municipality: 2298320010 Police Station: 2298073100 Port Authority: 2298072245 Healthcare Center: 2298072472

the War of Independence, letters written by war heroes like Kolokotronis and Athanasios Diakos, a folk art collection and the relics of Bouboulina. The house was built between 1795 and 1798, and was donated to the Greek state in 1938 by the heirs of the Mexis family. The objects on display represent more than 4,000 years of the island’s history.

Church of Panayia Armata

This rural church was built between 1824 and 1830 to honour the victory of the Greek warriors against the Ottomans.

Cathedral of Ayios Nikolaos

The island's Cathedral is of great historical importance as it was here where the island's Independence flag was raised on 3rd April 1821. It was also here where the dead body of Paul Bonaparte, nephew of Napoleon Bonaparte, who came to Greece

to fight on the side of Greeks, was kept in a barrel of rum for three whole years!

Where to swim

If you like cosmopolitan, Agioi Anargyroi beach, will be a great choice for you. It also offers water sports facilities. Ayia Paraskevi, a sandy beach situated on the west part of the island, 12 km away from Dápia, is also well-known and offers water sports facilities too. At the end of the beach there is a path that leads you to the cave of Bekiris for underground dives. The beaches of Kounoupit sa, Anargyrios Scholi and Ligoneri are also nice. For more affectionate situations go to Kouzounos, Xylokeriza and Zogeria, where is also the famous magic with the chicken broth and soutzoukakia. The locals know it as “Loula’s”.

Where to eat & drink

Arts

The Kapopoulos Fine Arts Gallery in the center of Dapia in Spetses (22980 72 278, daily from 11.00 to 24.00) is the hotspot for art lovers. In an elegant and friendly environment, works of art and sculptures of Greek and internationally acclaimed artists, such as Alekos Fassianos, Erró, Frederic Avella, Sotiris Sorogas, S onke, Stathis Alexopoulos, Kostis Georgiou, Mr. Brainwash, Richard Orlinski, Basil Antonakos, Benjamin Spark. For the fourth consecutive season, invite us to discover unique artworks and original techniques.

Special Events

The Armata Festival is the most important festival on Spetses and extends over the second week of September including mainly artistic events, such as traditional dances, theatrical performances, various exhibitions and presentations. The Spetses Mini Marathon on 6-8 October is also a great event and one of Greece’s biggest sports events. ●

Orloff Resort

Go to Tarsanas for fish and socialites, to the Exedra for all day home cooking and fish. Excellent Mediterranean

gourmet dishes at the Orloff on the old Harbour, a meeting place for food aficionados and culinary voyeurs visiting the island. Creative and inspired recipes, authentic fish roe salad (taramosalata), traditional greek cuisine with a twist, plummy fresh salads and always freshly caught fish, served under the stars on the most captivating terrace of Spetses. Check as well the beautifull Orloff Resort for a wonderful stay. Pizza and socialites also at Il Padrino. On the Scholes side you will find To Nero tis Agapis, Mediterranean cuisine, the classic fish place Patralis, the Kaiki beach, a Mediterranean dishes restaurant. The Pachni features Greek cuisine and grilled meats. Go to the Souvlaki Spetses for gourmet souvlaki and to Klimi’s or Politi’s for local marzipan desserts. Have a drink at the Spetsa and later at the Booze. You will find Mouragio on the Οld Harbour, with a nice kitchen, wild clubbing at Stavento, the legendary Figaro, now called Tole and Guzel.

The ORLOFF RESORT boutique hotel lies near the cosmopolitan Old Harbor of Spetses, where the heart of the island’s nobility and historical tradition beats. The resort is the place that introduces an entirely new perception of exclusivity and elegance. Originally a family mansion built in 1865, it has been renovated and expanded in its grounds in an eloquent, stylish manner, featuring natural materials like marble, wood and limestone that ensure an environment of tranquility. It comprises of eleven double bedrooms, four triple apartments, two maisonettes, the luxury suite and two houses fully equipped to cater for ten quests, all arranged around an azure architecturally minimal swimming pool. What's more international experienced teachers give massage, yoga and pilates lessons and if you are interested in Greek traditional cuisine the Resort offers cooking lessons. Especially for You! The ORLOFF RESORT would organize your wedding reception or pre-wedding party at the dedicated space around the pool. ORLOFF RESORT, Old Harbor, +302298075444 - 75445

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Municipality: 2283360100 Police Station: 2283022100 Port Authority: 2283022220 Healthcare Center: 2283360000

Where to stay

Tinos The magnificent blue

eligious reverence, unmatched food, picturesque villages and a lot more, await the visitor on the island of Tinos.

Where to go

Where to swim

Aghios Fokas is accesible on foot from Chora. For peace and quiet, go a bit further up to the end of the beach at Kionia. The beach of Rocharis near Panormos is organized too. For peace and quiet try Aghios Petros. Pachia Ammos has huge sand-dunes and clean waters. Apigania is a beautiful, not accessed easily beach.

TinosHeart Apartment

Obviously, Panagia of Tinos is a must, as is the red carpet on which pilgrims crawl on their knees on their way to the Virgin Mary church. Pyrgos is the largest village of Tinos and with the most unique architecture among all the villages in of Cyclades. After visiting the house of greek sculptor Chalepas, make a relaxing stop under the old plane tree in the square. The beautiful abbey of Ursulines at Loutra was founded in 1862 and is worth a visit. The village of Isternia features a grandiose

church, and a majestic view of the open sea. Furthermore, one can visit: Museum of marble carving (Pyrgos,+302283031290) which was built by the Piraeus Bank Group Cultural Foundation, the House Museum of Giannoulis Chalepa (Pyrgos,+302283031262), the Μuseum of contemporary art “Kostas Tsoklis” (Kampos, +302283 051009).

Modern architectural gems nested in the heart of Tinos 102 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

A beautiful, neoclassical Apartment in the heart of Tinos Chora. It combines the Cycladic unspoiled tradition with comfort and amenities. Although it has been totally refurbished and renovated it still preserves the architectural identity of the 20th century. It can accommodate up to five people and is ideal for families and large groups of friends. It is located on a central cobbled street of the Chora close to banks, super markets and the central bus station. What' s more its location guarantees tranquility since the circulation of cars is forbidden. TinosHeart Αpartment is fully equipped and decorated with unique minimal aesthetics. It is affordable to all with a breathtaking view of the Aegean Sea.

At Chora lies Tinos Heart (+3006984120243), a neoclassical mansion fully and beautifully renovated, in respect to the island’s traditional architecture and the natural surroundings. Ideal for families as it provides all the essentials. Situated in the scenic settlement of Messi, Tutti Blu is a traditional stone house of the 18th century, recently renovated in absolute harmony to the distinctive vernacular architectural style of Tinos. The apartments offer all amenities, plus a delicious breakfast made of regional products. (+306955093535, www.tuttiblu.gr). At Agios Fokas, Golden Beach (+302283022579) is built next to a clean beach. In Agios Ioannis Port, Porto Vlastos (+302283025229) is just 300 m. from the sea, Porto Tango (4 stars, +302283024411) and Porto Raphael (+302283023913), features a large garden for children.

Where to eat

To Koutouki tis Elenis (+302283 024857), Greek cuisine at its best. At Isternia, at Exo Meria (+302283031552) for brunch and homemade pizza. Also at Thalassaki (+302283031366), the most famous tavern of Tinos. Marathia (+302283023249), an excellent restaurant by the sea. At Chora, the beloved Itan ena mikro karavi (+302283022818) offers Greek cuisine with a twist. ●

20 Evaggelistrias Street, Tinos Chora, +3006984120243, tinosheart.gr, fb: TinosHeart Apartment

Tuttiblu Tinos Living Space

A three centuries tradition House Mainland Tinos still values tradition and history. The locals go to great lengths to preserve their tradition and their history. Tuttiblu Tinos Living Space is a house of the 18th century that respects both tradition and history in the small, picturesque village of Mesi, in up-country Tinos Island. A guest house that dates from 1786 and its owners had it renovated with absolute respect to the distinctive vernacular architectural style of Tinos. A traditional stoned house that was one of the first built in Mesi. A traditional stoned house that is situated in the middle of the village’s central square. Each individual living space features a fully equipped kitchenette and dining room, independent bathroom and sleeping area. The amenities provided include, amongst others, constant hot water and under-floor heating for use throughout the year (state-of-art environmentally friendly technology), free wireless and cable connection to the internet, TV, as well as the provision of Greek breakfast (optional), created using local produce from the farmers of the area. The position of the house, as well as the philosophy of the island itself, encourages visitors to engage with a series of activities that can compose an integrated experience for them. Apart from swimming in the crystal clear and fresh waters of the Aegean in nearby virgin beaches such as Santa Margarita, Lychnaftia, Livada, Pachia Ammos (15’-30’ drive) such activities may include hiking in the many preserved traditional footpaths, mountaineering, visiting the numerous picturesque small churches, the traditional vineyards and wineries, as well as participation in agricultural activities such as grape harvesting, spirit distilling and others. Finally, the excellent and pure local products and ingredients, in combination with the artistry of the Tinian cooks, have established the island as a proud gastronomic destination. Tuttiblu Tinos Living Space is the ideal holiday destination for people who appreciate tradition and who would like to experience living in a 19th century environment with the amenities of the 21st. It is an ideal holiday destination for all seasons since it welcomes visitors all year round. ● Mesi, Tinos, +306955093535, www.tuttiblu.gr, fb: TuttiBlu Tinos Living Space, Instagram: @tuttiblutinos

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 103

EK GREMER SUM

Naxos Aegean at its ﬁnest

rom historical sites to sandy beaches and clear waters, Naxos has it all. Its breath-catching landscapes, including mountains and green valleys, are only a few of the things Naxos has to offer. At the old villages by the seaside, local festivals with traditional music and folklore dances are organised every season. Naxos boasts the remnants of Byzantine and Ancient Greek history on its soil. Byzantine churches are scattered across the island, while monasteries and fortified castles have an imposing presence. One must see the ruins of the unfinished Temple of Apollo, and visit the islet of Palatia, where the magnificent site of Portara is located. Portara offers unforgettable views of the sea and breathtaking sunsets. Naxos’s multiple beautiful locations, along with its rich history, make it a very popular holiday destination.

104 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

Where to swim

No other Cycladic island has so many and beautiful beaches. AiYiorgis, Agios Prokopis and Agia Anna, are all well organized. Leaving Plaka behind, you will find the beautiful and more deserted beaches of Orkos, Mikri and Megali Vigla, Pyrgaki, Kastraki and Alyko. On the northern side of the island you will find Ammitis, Abrami and Agioi Theodoroi. On the east, Psili Ammos, Azalas, Klidos and Panormos.

Where to stay

At Chora: Hotel Grotta (+302285022215, +302285 022001, www.hotelgrotta.gr), Naxos Resort Hotel (+302285026650, www.naxosresort.gr), Porto Naxos (+3022850 23970, www. portonaxos.gr). In Agia Anna go to Iria Beach (+302285042600, www.iriabeachnaxos.com), at Plaka Nostos beach (+306944615389, www.nostosnaxos.com), Maistrali (+30228504734), Golden Sand (+302285041653). Also the camping of Maraga (+3022850 42552, www.maragasbeachnaxos.com). Nikos & Maria Studios (2285042670, 6972722785), the ideal place to experience the uncompromising luxury of relaxation.

Police Station: 2285022100 Port Authority: 2285022300 Municipality: 2285360100 Healthcare Center: 2285360500

Where to eat

Eat Mediterranean cuisine at the brand new Barozzi bar restaurant (+302285027672). Grab a bite at Irinis (+302285026780), one of the most celebrated tavernas in Chora, by the harbour: traditional cuisine and friendly service. At Stella (+302285062312) and Charis (+302285062266) at Eggares village the best traditional cuisine. The beach bar Banana (+306978733402), the restaurants Island and the Patatosporos are top choices in Agia Anna. On the road to Plaka, you’ll find Nikos & Maria (2285042670), a family restaurant that serves the traditional flavors of the island on tables set right on the sandy beach, making your dinner a fascinating experience as the sun dives at sea. If you wish to try Naxian cuisine at its best at Axiotissa (+302285075107) in Kastraki. At the hotel Naxian on the beach eat at Tortuga (+3022850 44300). In Mikri Vigla at Liofagos ask for meatballs. Treat yourself at Waffles House in Chora, at Aktaion in Chora or at the port for ice cream, tarts and cakes, and at Rantevou at the port for delicious coffee, a big variety of sandwiches, try with ham and gruyere cheese of Naxos. ●

Nikos & Maria Studios Restaurant Living the dream by the sea An endless sandy beach. A room so close to the sea that every day you wake up with the sounds of waves while in less than a minute you are enjoying your early morning swim. That sums up what it is like to live at Nikos & Maria Studios in Plaka. The beach which is one of the most beautiful not only in Naxos but the whole of the Aegean. Adjacent to Nikos & Maria Studios there is a taverna that bears the same name since 1974. A picturesque place ideal for early dinners while watching the sunset. The menu comprises of delicious local dishes. A wide range of local products is used for all the dishes. Most of the goods are actually produced and cultivated by the owners of this taverna. The genuine hospitality and the kindness of Nikos and Maria will make you feel as if you just had dinner with a friend.

Plaka, Naxos, +30 2285042670, www.nikos-maria.com

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 105

Choosing one of the 21 private villas of K4 Kythnos, located at three different parts of the island, would make a much promising stay. At Kanala, one of the most vibrant settlements of Kythnos, just a step away from Megali Ammos beach, you'll find ten spacious individually designed white-washed villas built with love and in perfect harmony with the stunning natural environment. Four more private villas and two guest houses stretch along the serene beach of Kastelas, right next to the Flabouria seaside settlement. The wild landscapes surrounding the cycladic stone architecture,the bespoke design and furniture of each apartment enriched with boho details, the infinity pool and the secluded Kastelas beach, redefine the meaning of pure relaxation. At Miloi, there are five newly built luxurious villas, each with a private pool and a stunning view at the traditional village of Dryopida and the picturesque windmills of the area. extra tip: enjoy the delightful cuisine based on traditional Greek flavours, prepared and served in the privacy of your own villa.

Kythnos

K4 Kythnos Luxury and the cycladic colors paint the vacation house of your dreams

A paradise, just 3 hours from Athens

ust three hours from the port of Piraeus, Kythnos is a fairly popular destination for Athenians and beyond. Ideal for families or couples, it is accessible by ferry from Piraeus and Lavrio. On the northern side of Kythnos is the village of Loutra, famous for its thermal springs. Holidays in Kythnos is a wonderful experience that can offer total privacy. There are scenic settlements, including Chora, Driopida and Loutra, featuring gems of traditional architecture.

Where to swim

The beaches are small and do not get very crowded. The most beautiful beach is Kolona, a long stretch of sand that gets into the sea and actually creates two beaches. There is not much sightseeing on Kythnos island, except for some nice churches, scattered around the island, a typical cycladic scenery

Where to eat & stay

Kythnos (Miloi, Kanala, Kastellas) 6972 858493, 6942 200279 www.kforkythnos.com

106 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

Police Station: 2281031201 Port Authority: 2281032290 Municipality: 2281361100 Healthcare Center: 2281031202

All the settlements around the island, at Merihas (down the port), at the seaside Loutra and Panayia Kanala and at Chora as well and Driopida, you’ll find a wide range of well organized accommodation options, overlooking the deep blue. We strongly suggest the k4 Kythnos. 21 fully equipped seaside villas sprawling in three different parts of the island, at Kanala, Myloi and Kastella. As for your appetite for traditional cuisine go to Ostria (2281033017), Messaria (2281031672), Cavo D’ Oro (2281031469), To Steki Tou Ntetz i (2281031204). ●

Youthful & vibrant

mall in size, but famous worldwide for its wild nighlife, youthful crowds, beautiful beaches and ancient findings, Ios competes with other famous destinations, such as Mykonos and Santorini, attracting younger visitors with its carefree, devil-maycare vibe. Ios may be synonymous with endless parties, but still offers alternative ways of fun and escaping daily life, such as walking along mountainous paths, observing wild nature or activities of agriturism, including taking care of the locals’ livestock, fishing or harvesting honey. Visit Palaiokastro (byzantine and medieval castle) and Skarkos where you will find

Votsalo

Ios

prehistoric settlements. In 2008, Ios was awarded the European Union Cultural Heritage prize for its conservation efforts at the archaelogical site of Skarkos. Be sure to watch the best sunsets from the little church of Agios Nikolaos and Panagia Gremiotissa and if you find yourself there on August 15th be sure to go to the panigiri (festival). The Swedish Midsummer Party in late June is very popular among young visitors. For more infos check: www.ios.gr.

Where to swim

Gyalos is a fully equipped near the port with beautiful sand and tamarix trees. Mylopotas is a very busy beach with beach bars, tavernas and two camping sites.

At Koumpara, in a crystal clear beach near the port you can bathe without your bathing suit. Prepare for dreamy dives at Maganari, with its crystal clear waters. Agia Theodoti is perfect spot for a romantic peaceful swim. Kalamos is quiet and a perfect diving spot. Less crowded are Papa, Kampaki, Plakes, Neraki, Plakoto, Sapounohoma, Petalidi, Diamoudia. The beach at the bay of Psathi is wild and suitable for surfers. ●

Greek design at its best Should you find yourself in Ios pay a visit to the two unique cozy concept stores at the port and at the Chora of the island. Two distinctive boutiques with clothes, garments, shoes and accessories all designed and signed by some of the most renowned Greek designers along with many more hot fashion brands from all around the world. Votsalo aims at forming the personal style of its clients always bearing in mind aesthetics and elegance. Those of you who wish to have a more private shopping experience you could even arrange a personal visit apart from the opening hours. The highly specialized and dynamic personnel of the stores will guide you and help you pick what suits you best from a wide range of clothes, beachwear sunglasses, watches and accessories for a unique summer look. ● Ios, Port 2286091191, Chora, 2286091649, fb: Votsalo

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 107

EK GREMER SUM

Rhodes

Impressive history and wonderful beaches

t’s the fourth largest island in Greece and the largest in the Dodecanese. Rhodes is famous for its rich history, its beautiful beaches and its enchanting natural environment, elements that have established it for several decades as one of the most popular destinations. There are many gastronomic festivals on the island, but we celebrate the “yiapraki” festival, which takes place early September in Salakos, where the village’s women prepare thousands of shrimp delicacies, to feast your eyes and palate with.

What to see

You have to visit Medieval City. Its history begins in the Knights Age (1309-1522) and is so well-preserved that has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Many of the city’s buildings were built in the Middle Ages, while a simple walk through the cobbled narrow streets has 108 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

brought you back centuries back to the Knights' era. Among the monuments to visit the Palace of the Grand Master, the Knights Hospital, the Knights’ Street and the Virgin of the Castle (11th century AD), the largest and most ancient temple of the city. Spend plenty of time in the Old Town, both in the evening and in the morning. Choose to enter the walls of the Republic and proceed to Kastello. A nice walk you also have to take is follow the coastal road that will take you to New Town passing. Don’t miss the springs of Kallithea, just 15 km away. You also have to dedicate a whole day In Lindos. From the Acropolis the view is wonderful. The list also includes the archaeological site of Kamiros, which complements the image of the island. And last but not least the Butterfly Valley with the rare Panaxia Quadripunctaria butterfly that thrives here from mid-June to September.

Police Station: 2241023849 Port Authority: 2241028888 Municipality: 2241361200 Healthcare Center: 2241360000

Where to swim

In 2018, Rhodes was awarded with 35 “Blue Flags”. Ixia is the continuation of Rhodes beach, well organized with water sports facilities. Ialyssos is only 8 km away from the city of Rhodes. In the southwestern part of the island you will meet Glyfada with wonderful, crystal clear waters and pine trees that reach the sea. Faliraki is a huge sandy and organized beach with water sports facilities, beach bars, restaurants and water sports. Organized beaches can also be found on the southeastern side: Kallithea, Afantou, Tsambika, Gennadi, but they are more relaxed, without a lot of people. For exotic waters in Lindos, you can swim overlooking the castle. At the southernmost point of the island you will find Prasonisi, a sandy strip of land, which is covered by huge waves on one side. The strong winds that fly to the spot (especially July and August) have made the beach, a famous destination among windsurfers. ●

Lohan Beach House The brand new entrepreneurial venture by Lindsay Lohan in Greece

Imagine a beach with crystal clear waters just for you. Imagine feeling the warmth of the sand scrunching in your feet and the sun kissing your salty lips. You feel like a castaway on a deserted island but just right behind there is the brand new, shiny gem of Rhodes. The Lohan Beach House has just opened in Ialyssos promising to make your summer an experience not to forget. The Lohan Beach House is a luxurious multipurpose facility that combines a club and restaurant area dropped against the infinity view of endless blue ahead. This tiny paradise is inspired by some of the best and most acknowledged beach bars of the world and everyday there is a different surprise party for you. What can be better than summer under the Mediterranean sun? Lohan Beach House has its own private beach and an army of comfortable sunbeds for endless sunbathing till the sun sets. The restaurant of the House is place to be for the full-on Mediterranean experience, a zesty blend of European cuisines and a carefully selected fusion of international styles. And when the night comes it is the time for the Club to shine with legendary, passionate parties and a nightlife beyond any of your expectations. The Lohan club is by far the most spectacular one in a cosmopolitan island like Rhodes.

Ialysos Beach, Rhodes, 2241090068, www.lohanrhodes.com, Fb: @lohanrhodes

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018 _ 109

Emergency Numbers Aiport Police +302103536919 Coast Guard 108 ELPA (roadside assistance) 10400 Fire Service 199 Hospitals, Doctors, Pharmacies Info 14944 Police 100 SOS Doctors 1016 Tourist Police 171 Traffic Police +302105230111 Ambulance service 166 Emergency Police 100 Fire Service 199 Greek Railways OSE 14944

Piraeus Port

Authority +302104593000 Rafina Port Authority +302294023605 Lavrio Port Authority +302292025249 Eleftherios Venizelos 14944 International Airport +302103530000 114 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2018

Hospitals Accident Hospitals Asklipieio Voulas Vassileos Pavlou 1,Voula, +302132163000 KAT Nikis 2, Kifissia, +302106280000 Public General Hospitals Evangelismos Ipsilantou 45-47, Evangelismos, +302132041000 Geniko Kratiko-Gennimatas Mesogion 154, Ethniki Amyna, +302132032000 Ippokratio Vas. Sofias 114, Ambelokipi, +302132088000 Laiko Agiou Thoma 17, Ambelokipi, +302132060800 Tzanio Afentouli & Tzani 1, Piraeus, +302132081000 Public Childrenâ€™s Hospitals Agia Sofia Thivon & Papadiamandopoulou, Goudi, +302132013000 Aglaia Kyriakou Thivon & Levadias, Goudi, +302132009000 Maternity Hospitals Alexandra Vas. Sofias 80, Megaro Moussikis, +302132162000 Elena Venizelou Elena Venizelou sq. 2, Ambelokipi, +302106432220 Iaso Kifisias 37-39, +302106184000 Leto Mouson 7-13, +302106902000 Mitera Kifissias & Erithrou Stavrou 6, +302106869000

Embassies Albania Vekiareli 7, Filothei, +302106876200 Australia Kifissias 1-3, +302108704000 Austria Vas. Sofias 4, +302107257270 Belgium Sekeri 3, Kolonaki, +302103617886 Bulgaria Stratigou Kallari 33A, Psyhiko, +302106748106 Canada Ioannou Gennadiou 4, +302107273400 Cyprus Xenofontos 2A,+302103734800 Czech Republic Seferi 6, Psyhiko, +302106719701 Denmark Mourouzi 10, +302107256440 France Vas.Sofias 7, +302103391000 Germany Karaoli & Dimitriou 3, Kolonaki,

+302107285111 Russia Nikiforou Hungary Karneadou 25, Lytra 28, Psyhiko, Kolonaki, +302107256800 +302106725235 China Krinon 2A, Psyhiko, Serbia Vas. Sofias 106, +302106723282 +302107774344 Ireland Vas. Konstantinou Slovakia Georgiou 5-7, +302107232771 Seferi 4, Psyhiko, Israel Marathonodromon +302106771980 1, Psyhiko, South Africa Kifissias 60, +302106705500 Marousi, +302106106645 Italy Sekeri 2, Kolonaki, Spain Dionysiou +302103617260 Areopagitou 21, Japan Ethnikis +302109213123 Antistaseos, Sweden Vas. +302106709900 Konstantinou 7, Netherlands Vas. +302107266100 Konstantinou 5-7, Switzerland Iasiou 2, +302107254900 +302107230364 Norway Vas. Sofias 23, Turkey Vassileos +302107246173 Georgiou 8, Poland Chrysanthemon +302107263000 22, Psyhiko, UK Ploutarhou 1, +302106797700 +302107272600 Romania Em. Benaki 7, USA Vas. Sofias 91, Psyhiko, +30210 6728875 +302107212951

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