AsiaLIFE Vietnam July 2018

AsiaLIFE Media Vol. 124

FRENCH PHOTOGRAPHER REHAHN UPCYCLED JEWELLERY VIETNAMESE WEDDING TRADITIONS

INFORMATION AND COMMUNICATIONS PUBLISHING HOUSE

CAMBODIA // THAILAND // VIETNAM

JULY 2018 AsiaLIFE Media Vol. 124

VOLUME 124 This month's cover

|JULY 2018

REHAHN AND HIS WORK VIETNAMESE TRADITIONAL WEDDING ELI & LOU

INFORMATION AND COMMUNICATIONS PUBLISHING HOUSE

for more news and events, features, restaurant reviews and video, visit:

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www.AsiaLIFEmagazine.com For advertising and marketing enquiries please contact: +84 163 5077 530 / +84 903 325 543 or adsales@asialifehcmc.com Director Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialifemagazine.com Editorial Director Barbara Adam barbara.adam@asialifemagazine.com

Art Director

Peter Cornish peter.cornish@asialifemagazine.com

Photo Editor

Nguyen Kim Hanh kimhanh@asialifehcmc.com

Contributors Tristan Ngo Yendy Tsang Kadri Lahi

Production Manager

Romain Garrigue rgarrigue.contact@gmail.com

Hoa Nguyen nguyenhoa@asialifehcmc.com

FOOD & DRINK

FRONT EVENTS ...............................................................

ASIALIFE’S PICKS: WEDDING ESSENTIAL..

Q&A - Vincent Floreani.....................................

WHAT’S NEW IN SAIGON.............................

BUSINESS VIEW..................................................

SAIGON PROFILES - Betsye Moon Par k.. ......

TRENDING..........................................................

Commercial Director

Editor

Thang Pham L.C. leo@asialifemagazine.com

06 07 10 12 13 14 15

C OV E R STO RY EXPATS - IT TAKES ALL SORTS

THE YORKSHIRE BLADE

Tips for r isottos.................................................. 3 6

LOCAL EATS

In memor y of Anthony Bourdain . . ................... 3 7

ORIENT BAR THAO DIEN

A laid back Aussie pu . . ....................................... 3 8

PIZZA AND BIA

Tr aditional pizza - with a twist . . ..................... 3 9

EL CAMINO

A Korean taco speakeasy.................................. 4 0

MEAT ME WOOD FIRE STEAKHOUSE

A new meat-centr ic spot in D2 . . ..................... 4 1

A little look into expat lives in Saigon . . ......... 16

F E AT U R E S REHAHN AND HIS WORK

A photographer’s love affair with Vietnam.... 2 2

HOW & WHEN TO START YOUR COMPANY IN VIETNAM An over view at what’s involved....................... 2 4 VIETNAMESE WEDDING TRADITIONS A look at how locals get hitched . . ................... 2 6 FASHION REVOLUTION The wor ld of conscious fashion....................... 2 8 HEALTH & WELLNESS What to do after a traffic accident................. 3 0

T R AV E L CASTLE, STEAM TRAINS & A MICKY MOUSE REPUBLIC The former East German state of Saxony..... 3 2 THE TANANG-PHAN DUNG ROUTE

A beautiful three-day trek near Dalat. . .......... 3 4 4 AsiaLIFE HCMC

STYLE & DESIGN ELI & LOU

Upcycled jeweller y made in Saigon................ 4 2

TSAFARI

Dong Ho Collection . . ......................................... 4 4

COLUMNS IMBIBE ............................................................................. 5 2 FITNESS .......................................................................... 5 4 EDUCATION HUB .................................................... 5 6 PERSONAL FINANCE ............................................. 5 7 PEOPLE MATTER ....................................................... 5 8 SAIGON PET ............................................................... 5 9 TECH AND THE CITY ............................................. 6 0 STREET SMART .......................................................... 6 2 HANCOCK IN SE ASIA .......................................... 6 4 COMMUNITY FOCUS ............................................ 6 5 PUB QUIZ ..................................................................... 6 6

EVENTS RMIT Summer Dance Competition @RMIT Entry: Free

Sneakerfest @Nha Van Hoa Thanh Nien (Youth Cultural Centre) Entry: Free

RMIT University Vietnam’s first-ever dance competition was set up to encourage expressions of individuality, as well as enhance our students’ cross-campus experience.

The competition is open to all RMIT students and alumni from both Saigon South Campus and Hanoi Campus.

A once-a-year opportunity to shop for sneakers, streetwear and sports wear, with more than 100 booths. fb.com/events/184039175759750

fb.com/events/1482140168597786

3 JUL

8 JUL

3pm - 6pm

7.30am – 10pm

18 JUL

8.30am-10.30am Island Eco Retreat: Samba and Yoga in the Sun @Koh Rong, Cambodia Entry: from $345, not including transport to Sihanoukville

Work and Leadership in An Age of AI and Robotics @Co-Space Dr. Milo Jones, a professor from IE Business School, will look at the wider implications of new technologies for leadership and management, and how the technology is being applied in fields such as retail, finance, consulting, law, journalism and medicine. fb.com/events/2110598215819064 6 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Sambaloca Saigon and Chicks Club are hosting their first Island eco retreat - five nights and days of sassy sisterhood, self-love and positive vibrations with yoga and samba at the beautiful Lonely Beach Resort of Koh Rong Island, Cambodia. fb.com/ events/1843155712403684

27 JULY 1 AUG

AsiaLIFE’s in-house groom-to-be Thang Pham talks us through five things that are needed for a Vietnamese wedding. (Read more about Vietnamese wedding traditions on page 26.)

WEDDING INVITATIONS A key feature of Vietnamese weddings is the wedding party, and guests need to be invited with personalised invitations, delivered by hand. The invitation “package” usually includes an envelope. This envelope should be stuffed with cash and taken along to the party, as cash is the expected wedding gift.

A general rule is that if you’re short of cash, give enough to pay for your meal. Otherwise, the minimum amount to give without appearing rude would be VND1 million.

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WEDDING DRESS & SUIT Although most Vietnamese brides wear Western-style wedding dresses at their wedding party, for the private weddings ceremonies between the two families, the traditional ao day is still worn.

WEDDING PHOTOSHOOT Months before the wedding party, the couple will organise a photoshoot.

Usually a day-long undertaking, the most basic wedding photoshoot will involve three costume changes for both bride and groom.

©SCRAPBOOK’N LOVE HOANG PHUONG 8 AsiaLIFE HCMC

©TAN PHAT

WEDDING RINGS

WEDDING OFFERINGS

Before the wedding ceremonies begin, the couple will choose a matching set of rings, generally just a simple gold band. The groom’s parents usually pay for the rings.

The groom’s family traditionally gives offerings to the bride’s family as part of the wedding ceremonies. There should be an even number of offerings arranged in an odd number of boxes.

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Q&A

FRENCH CONSUL-GENERAL

10 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Vincent Floreani is a career diplomat who’s lived and worked in the US, London, Romania, Indonesia, Kenya, Uganda and the United Arab Emirates. He arrived in Ho Chi Minh City to take up a three-year posting in September last year. He sat down with AsiaLIFE’s Barbara Adam to talk about all things Saigon. Photo by Jonny Edbrooke.

What is your mission here in Ho Chi Minh City?

I have a six-page plan! It’s a lot about supporting all the sectors of the economy to create opportunities for French companies.

We are particularly strong in the health sector here in Vietnam. For decades, maybe over a century, we’ve been training Vietnamese doctors. We also have big pharmaceutical companies in Vietnam.

We created a healthcare group and we’re working together. We also help support French agriculture and agro-product companies. The area of health safety is also big in Vietnam. That area has some opportunities for us. Also, we’ve always been strong in infrastructure in Vietnam.

We’re also looking at the tech sector in Vietnam. We have some big companies here, like Gameloft, and some small companies, like Le Flair, an online sales company. We also have some startups.

Last year in Paris, we opened the world’s largest incubator, called Station F. It has the capacity to host 1,000 startups, and there are a lot of initiatives we are trying to focus on from all over the world.

We created a French tech hub here, we had a really big reception at the French Residence in May. About 100 company representatives came.

Vietnam is growing very fast, and tech goods have overtaken textiles as the biggest export. Samsung makes up about 25% of Vietnamese exports. The whole ecosystem is growing, and growing very quickly. There are a lot of opportunities in this sector.

It’s the 45th anniversary of diplomatic relations between France and Vietnam. Are there any special events planned this year?

Yes, we have been celebrating the anniversary with many different events.

We held our fourth annual job fair in May, organised with French companies and the French Chamber of Commerce.

We also had an event in Can Tho, with clowns performing at an outdoor plaza. It was very popular, more than 300 people came along.

We also have exhibitions and performances scheduled for the rest of the year. In September we have the Mémoire Flottante (Floating Memory) exhibition from the Université d’Architecture Bruno Grasser at Villa Saigon. On September 21 and 22, we will show the theatre play Saigon, which enjoys an immense success in France. In October we have an exhibition of French and Vietnamese artists at Salle de l’association des BA. On October 6 we also have a dance show called Tordre (Twist) at the Opera House.

You can find a list of all the special events on the consulate’s website, although it’s only in French and Vietnamese.

Where do you take friends and family who come to visit you in Ho Chi Minh City?

I take them to District 1 to see Nguyen Hue walking street, and around the city -the Rex, the Opera House, the Continental, Rue Catinat, which is now Dong Khoi Street.

I also like to show them the new exhibit at the Independence Palace, which shows the development of the city from the mid-19th Century to the 1950s and 60s.

I also like Cholon, I like to take people walking along the river, to the traditional medicine museum. Little by little we discover new things.

I also really like Hue, not only the old citadel but also the tombs.

Vietnam is growing very fast, and tech goods have overtaken textiles as the biggest export

Have you learned any Vietnamese since you’ve been here?

I’ve tried a few words but when I try, people laugh, so it’s not inspiring.

Even when I say cam on (thank you), people look puzzled. I wanted to learn when I arrived but I was so busy. I want to at least be able to greet people and say a few words. But I know I could never speak Vietnamese fluently, which is a shame because when you learn a language you learn the culture that goes along with it.

What are your plans for Bastille Day on July 14?

It’s a big event for us. Every year we have about 1,200 people here. We have two parties. One for the officials from the city and

companies, including our sponsors. Then we have a reception here in the garden for the French and Vietnamese community.

This year we’re bringing a singer, Ngoc Mai, to sing the French and Vietnamese national anthems, and also Xin Chao Vietnam. There’ll be a light and sound performance at the residence. Also, a jazz band, cheese, wine, champagne, the regular French stuff.

What’s your favourite Vietnamese food?

I discovered - really discovered Vietnamese food here. In France there are about 300,000 people in the Vietnamese community, so there is a lot of Vietnamese food available. But they don’t have the same ingredients as you have here.

When I came here I discovered Vietnamese food is not greasy, but very tasty with fresh herbs. I actually gained weight! Even though I came to Vietnam from Chicago, the home of deep dish pizza.

We have a chef here. We get her to cook Vietnamese when we have French guests and French when we have Vietnamese guests.

Do you have a favourite restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City?

Oh, I really shouldn’t name a favourite. I could get in trouble!

I like L’Atelier des Rêves, run by a FrancoVietnamese couple.

I like Le Bordeaux. The owner has an interesting story. He left Vietnam when he was 13 and started as a dishwasher at a restaurant. The chef noticed he had potential and paid for his cooking lessons and he became a great chef in France and then came back here.

I also like La Villa, L’Escale, Le Corto, L’Olivier, Le Jardin des Sens and many others.

There are about 6,000 French citizens registered here with the consulate, so we estimate there are about 8,000 or 9,000 French people living here. Because not everyone thinks about registering.

After our chat, Vincent gave us a quick tour of the French Residence, where he lives with his wife, and also the venue for many official functions.

Built in 1872, the beautiful French colonial building has served many purposes throughout its life, from the residence of the military governor of Cochinchina, an embassy and a high commission.

In 1967, the French sold a parcel of land to the Americans, who built their own consulate next door. But the residence still has a 1.5 hectare “backyard” filled with 100-year-old trees, civet cats, birds and snakes.

Vincent showed us some of the artefacts on display in the residence, including antique silverware (including an absinthe spoon), lacquer artworks, a carved screen with scenes from Hue’s ancient citadel and chu nhom characters on the back, and a bust of Marianne, an important symbol for the republic of France. Marianne oversees the weddings that are celebrated at the consulate, Vincent said.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 11

DEKU SALAD

BIKE BAGEL CAFE BICYCLE SHOP AND CAFE

SALAD SHOP

A bicycle-friendly cafe (offering a 10% discount for anyone who cycles there) serving great coffee, fresh bagels, wine and craft beer. They also sell bicycles and accessories.

A farm-to-table salad joint that sources organic produce from Dalat and other areas to serve safe, creative and delicious salads.

131 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh District fb.com/BikeBagelCafe.

Unit 3, 26 Thao Dien, Thao Dien, D2 fb.com/dekusalad2018.

KAU BAO OYSTER BAR

MAMA GA OYSTER BAR

A rooftop restaurant with a Cajun-Vietnamese fusion menu (with a heavy emphasis on oysters), craft cocktails and beers.

8A/1D1 Thai Van Lung, D1 fb.com/Kaubaoysterbar1.

VEGAN 4P COCKTAIL BAR

Promising to take you back to the golden age of cocktails, this “classic” yet avant-garde bar is a great place to chill and let the friendly bartenders mix up something special just for you.

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Mama Ga is a traditional French rotisserie serving whole roasted farm chickens, crispy chicken tenders and succulent sandwiches.

Bloq, 19 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, D2 fb.com/mamagarotisserie.

RABBIT HOLE

138 Nam Khi Khoi Nghia, D1 fb.com/rabbitholebarhcm.

ROAST CHICKEN

VEGAN RESTAURANT Cheap, cheerful and healthy vegan meals, with 10% of every bill going to charity.

R4-62 Đuong Noi khu Hung Phuoc 1, Phu My Hung, D7 fb.com/vegan4pconnectloveshare.

BUSINESS VIEW NEWS

IN BRIEF NEW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

METRO COMPLETION DELAYED AGAIN THE completion date for Ho Chi Minh City’s enormous metro project has been pushed back another two years, to 2020, according to Tuoi Tre News.

Construction of the first line of the metro project began eight years ago, with a completion date of 2015. The 19.7-kilometer line will be capable of transporting 620,000 passengers per day, the news report said.

In 2011, the Ho Chi Minh City government revised the project cost from VND17.4 trillion (US$765 million) to VND47.3 trillion ($2 billion) and said construction would be completed in 2018.

Ho Chi Minh City People’s Committee

Deputy Chairman Tran Vinh Tuyen last month said Vietnam’s National Assembly in Hanoi had yet to approve the new budget, and so the city had not been able to meet its financial obligations to metro contractors.

In 2017, Ho Chi Minh City government spent VND1.67 trillion ($73.5 million) from its own budget to pay contractors and this year it’s expecting to pay a further VND1 trillion ($43.95 million) to avoid legal liabilities stemming from late payments.

The city government has asked Hanoi for greater autonomy over the project to expedite construction.

A new international airport in Quang Ninh Province, home to the World Heritage-listed Halong Bay, is scheduled to open in December, the Vietnam Economic Times reported, citing project investor the Sun Group.

Phase 1 of the US$333 million Van Don International Airport will be able to handle 2.5 million passengers a year, with about 500,000 passengers expected in its first year of operation.

The airport will be capable of welcoming large commercial aircraft such as the Airbus A380 and the Boeing B777.

VIETNAM’S DANGEROUS SUGAR HIGH Vietnam’s consumption of sugar-based beverages has increased seven times in the last 15 years, with individual consumption per capita reaching alarming levels, a health conference in Hanoi heard last month.

Vietnam’s sugar consumption per capita is 46.5 gram per day, two times the level recommended by the World Health Organisation, Tuoi Tre News reported.

Vietnamese consumed four billion litres of soft drinks in 2016, with the figures expected to rise to five billion litres in 2018, and 11 billion litres in 2025.

GRAB EXPANSION KNOCKED BACK A bid by ride-sharing company Grab to expand its reach in Vietnam was denied by the country’s transport authorities last month.

Tuoi Tre News reported GrabTaxi Ltd wanted to begin operations in the Mekong Delta and central Vietnam. At present Grab is allowed to operate in Hanoi, Da Nang, Ho Chi Minh City, Khanh Hoa Province and Quang Ninh Province.

But the Ministry of Transport denied Grab’s request as the company is still operating on a trial basis.

FISHING CRACKDOWN HO Chi Minh City authorities are conducting a crackdown on illegal fishing in the city’s waterways, Tuoi Tre News reported last month.

Deputy chairman of the People’s Committee of District 1, Doan Ngoc Hai, instructed water police and transport authorities to step up patrols of illegal fishing in the Nhieu Loc - Thi Nghe Canal, which runs 8.7 kilometres through five districts of Ho Chi Minh City, bounded by Hoang Sa and Truong Sa streets.

The city government stocks the canal with various species of fish to improve water quality and the environment, the newspaper said. But illegal fishing in the canal has been cancelling out the benefits of the fish stocking.

The newspaper reported an estimated 50 metric tons of fish are lost in the canal every year due to both pollution and overfishing.

Nhieu Loc - Thi Nghe Canal used to be a dead, heavily polluted canal. It was given a facelift in 2012.

NEW FERRY TO PHU QUY A new speed boat capable of carrying 306 passengers has been put into service between Phan Thiet and Phu Quy Island.

The US$ 2 million Superdong Phu Quy 1 takes about 2.5 hours to travel between the two destinations, much quicker than the previous six hour journey.

The new high speed boat service is expected to boost tourism to the little-known island, 100 km from Phan Thiet.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 13

LISTEN INSPIRE NURTURE

BETSYE MOON PARK Words by Peter Cornish.

Photo by Romain Garrigue.

W

orking for a ballet company might seem an unusual start to a career in the non-profit sector, but with a bachelor’s major in dance and an MA in arts management, Betsye Moon Park was offered the role of finance manager with America’s premier ballet company, Joffrey Ballet, in Chicago in the early 2000s, helping to develop long-term financial strategies.

Betsye stayed with Joffrey Ballet for four years until she and her husband were offered jobs in Vietnam. Excited by the opportunity of spending time overseas, they visited initially in 2007, fell in love with the country’s charm and decided to call the place home more permanently a couple of years later.

Switching sectors, Betsye took a role with Mekong Capital where she gained further technical, private sector experience in finance and human resource management, hoping to apply her new knowledge and expertise in non-profits. She remained in this role for nearly four years, then moved with her family back to the States.

On The Radar

While in the US, Betsye continued her commitment to arts management as interim executive director for a local arts organisation.

But it wasn’t long until Vietnam appeared on the family’s radar again when her husband was offered another position in Ho Chi Min City.

14 AsiaLIFE HCMC

They returned, and Betsye decided this time she would focus her efforts in the non-profit sector.

Shortly before arriving back in Vietnam, a good friend introduced Betsye to Dana Doan, founder and strategic advisor for LIN Centre for Community Development in Ho Chi Minh City.

They stared talking in autumn of 2014 and Betsye began her role as executive consultant responsible for LIN’s financial management early the following year. Shortly later she was invited to join the board of LIN.

Non-profit Sector

Over the last three years, Betsye has worked with businesses and non-profits throughout Vietnam, helping to develop corporate social responsibility strategies and aligning these with the financial management of LIN, and the operational needs of the country’s non-profit sector.

With LIN’s executive director, Tran Vu Ngan Giang, about to take an overseas study opportunity, Betsye is upping her role with the organisation, acting as a mentor and coach to guide LIN towards its 2020 goals.

“LIN is a unique organisation in Vietnam and represents the point where skilled volunteers, corporations and other stakeholders come together to find ways of sharing knowledge and resources with our NPO partners,” Betsye explained.

The objective of LIN is the non-profit.

Whether they are working in health, child care, education or with marginalised people, LIN brings stakeholders together to facilitate networking, volunteer opportunities and the growth of corporate social responsibility in companies for long-term, sustainable impact on society.

“This is not about feel-good volunteerism, but about long-term goals for all partners,” Betsye was keen to point out. “NPOs (non-profit organisations) are growing and learning and becoming increasingly aware of the importance of strategic planning and execution.”

Best Practice

The focus of Betsye’s work with LIN is to enable non-profits to function efficiently, effectively and transparently through applying what they have learned, and so becoming an example to others. By sharing best practices in non-profit management, LIN makes resources available for enabling effective decision making and ensuring that non-profit organisations are able to operate in a professional manner.

Having worked as a consultant for LIN, and served on the board, Betsye is well positioned to ensure the internal running of the organisation remains efficient, and that the processes and systems needed for this are in place. With this structuring, LIN can continue

to provide non-profits with the support they need, as well as ensuring that LIN’s programmes run smoothly.

“The previous work I have done with LIN has given me an overview of the organisation and ability to see where the gaps are. We place emphasis on the support programmes we run, such as Narrow The Gap Fund, making sure the NPOs and corporations we connect get mutually beneficial value from the relationship,” Betsye explained.

LIN’s Narrow the Gap Fund brings local resources together to support local nonprofit organisations that are tackling the most pressing problems in Ho Chi Minh City and throughout the country. By engaging people with a shared vision, by pooling available resources and by investing together in projects that address local needs, a community fund helps make it easier and more rewarding for people to become more strategic with their giving.

As we discuss Betsye’s future, she again brings the conversation back to her role with LIN, saying she saw her growth and the growth of the organisation as intertwined. “I hope to bring a heightened level of internal professionalism to the organisation, with new and improved internal practices in HR management,” she said.

SOLAR POWER PLANT FOR TAY NINH Southeast Asia’s largest solar power plant will be built in the southern Vietnamese province of Tay Ninh, the VN Express website reported, citing the Nikkei Asian Review. The $420 million project, a joint venture between Vietnamese construction firm Xuan Cau and Thailand conglomerate B.Grimm, is set to open for commercial use in June 2019.

Solar power currently accounts for 0.01% of Vietnam’s total power output, but the government plans to increase the ratio to 3.3% by 2030 and 20% by 2050, the news site reported. Vietnam is aiming to produce 10.7% of its electricity through renewable energy by 2030, mainly through solar and wind energy.

SPORTS BETTING LEGALISED The Vietnamese National Assembly last month passed legislation legalising sports betting from January next year.

Viet Nam News reported that only one lawmaker voted against the legislation, two abstained and 457 legislators voted for the bill.

The government has not yet announced on which activities betting will be allowed, but early last year a pilot programme was unveiled that allowed betting on horse racing, dog racing and international football.

All sports betting transactions will be carried out in Vietnam dong, the news report said.

Robust Goal

Her goal is to build a strong, robust operational team within LIN so that when Giang returns from her studies to assume her role as executive director, she comes back to a highly functioning team that leads and produces results, influencing the sector and its stakeholders. “If internal structures are strong then the execution rate and accomplishment of goals will be more precise.” Betsye explained.

Together with Giang, Betsye has solidified LIN’s fundraising base, broadening their unrestricted funds so there is a reserve in place, something essential for effective non-profit operations. As she guides LIN into the future, emphasis will also be placed on strengthening and increasing relationships with the country’s non-profit and corporate sectors.

Building a Bridge

By bridging the gap between the two and facilitating the accomplishment of corporate philanthropic strategies by showing how doing good can be good for business, LIN continues to act as a conduit for businesses to find their social impact opportunity, their corporate social responsibility value or purpose.

“With over 300 NPO partners, we have the resources and knowledge to build company CSR programmes in a way that directly impact Vietnam,” Betsye explained. “What we take from society we should give back to society, what we take as individuals and corporations from Vietnam we ought to give back.”

Fortunately, many people who are making money, making profit for shareholders, are starting to think like this.

More information about LIN (Listen Inspire Nuture) can be found at http://linvn.org

PANGOLINS SEIZED Authorities seized 74 endangered pangolins in Thanh Hoa Province last month, according to a Tuoi Tre News report. A forest patrol and fire squad discovered the pangolins in a truck traveling along National Route 1A in the north-central province.

The driver of the truck was taken into custody and the pangolins were taken to Vietnam’s largest nature reserve, Cuc Phuong National Park, the report said.

In January, 114 pangolins and 301 kg of pangolin scales were impounded from a boat in Ca Mau, Vietnam’s southernmost province. Pangolin scales and blood are considered medicinal and the meat a delicacy in Vietnam and China.

CASHEW SHORTAGE HITS VIETNAM Several cashew nut processing plants have halted operations due to a lack of raw materials, Viet Nam News reported last month, citing the Vietnam Cashew Nut Association (Vinacas).

In the Mekong Delta province of Long An, only 12 out of the 33 cashew processing factories were operating, while in Binh Phuoc province, 80% of small- and medium-sized enterprises halted operations, the newspaper reported.

Vinacas chairman Nguyen Đuc Thanh said in the second half of this year, Vietnam’s cashew industry will need about 900,000 tonnes of raw materials for processing, but if costs rise, the association would import less.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 15

Barbara Adam talks to eight very different expatriates about their lives here in Ho Chi Minh City. Photos by Romain Garrigue.

16 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Marta Bartosz, Polish Occupation in Vietnam: Dance instructor Occupation before Vietnam: Dance instructor at Salsateka dance school Family situation: Single

Jade Bernie, Australian Occupation in Vietnam: Hairdresser Occupation before Vietnam: Hairdresser at Hair by Elizabeth Jade Family situation: Single

Mara Calibara, Filippino Occupation in Vietnam: Advertising creative Occupation before Vietnam: Primary school student Family situation: Engaged

Jonny Edbrooke, British Occupation in Vietnam: Director of AsiaLIFE Media Occupation before Vietnam: Creative Director Family situation: Married with two kids

John Gardner, New Zealander Occupation in Vietnam: General Director, Caravelle Hotel Occupation before Vietnam: Hotel General Manager, IHG China Family situation: Married

Julio Gomez, Mexican Occupation in Vietnam: Chef de Cuisine Occupation before Vietnam: Head chef at Tomatito Family situation: In a relationship Where are you from?

Mexico City

E

xpats end up in Vietnam for various reasons. Some accept a posting here in a bid to further their careers, some come to Vietnam for a career break, some trail a loved one and some arrive purely by chance.

The one thing everyone has in common is that once they arrive, they’re faced with the challenge of creating a lifestyle for themselves. What that lifestyle looks like varies as widely as the styles of Vietnamese motorbike helmets.

This month we meet some of the nonVietnamese people who call Vietnam home ... for now. They are your neighbours, and these are their stories.

Arrival Jason Kucherawy, Canadian Occupation in Vietnam: Owner of Saigon Craft Beer Tours Occupation before Vietnam: Tour company owner Family situation: Married with two kids

Michael Ling, Malaysian Occupation in Vietnam: Visiting lecturer, urban and regional planner, architect and interior designer Occupation before Vietnam: Urban and regional planner, architect and interior designer Family situation: Married with one kid

Expatriate refers to someone

living outside his native country.

Originally, an expatriate was someone exiled from his home country, derived from the mid-1700s French word expatrier, meaning banish. The term expatriate carries the connotation that the person in question will one day return to his country of origin, or at least wishes to one day return to his country of origin.

(From grammarist.com)

Our panel of expats ended up in Vietnam in a variety of ways. Marta and Jade both came here for a holiday and worked out a way to make the vacation a little more permanent, and slightly more lucrative.

“I had been on holidays in Ho Chi Minh City to visit my mum who lives here and fell in love with the easy lifestyle and saw the potential business opportunities,” Jade said. Hair by Jade Elizabeth is now one of the most popular hairdressing services in town for expats, especially women wanting blonde hair.

Mara and Jason “trailed” others. Jason’s teacher wife got a two-year contract at the Canadian International School, and he and his two kids came along to experience living in a foreign country.

Mara, meanwhile, arrived in Vietnam as a child, and stayed to complete her education.

She now works in advertising and is a parttime DJ. John and Julio both came to Vietnam to further their careers, John as the general manager of the historic Caravelle Hotel, and Julio as head chef at the new “sexy” tapas restaurant Tomatito.

Jonny, the publisher of AsiaLIFE magazine, may have the most random story of our panel. He arrived in Vietnam in 1995 on a seven-day contract to create a design for a state-run newspaper called World Affairs Weekly. “While I was assured by the AsiaLIFE HCMC 17

My social life revolves around going to pubs.

Jonny Edbrooke

18 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Swiss company that hired me that it was a simple job, I discovered on arrival that there was almost zero design equipment that could handle the job,” he said. “In the end I stayed with that company in Hanoi for four years.” And he’s still here, in Vietnam.

Best Part Of Life In Ho Chi Minh City

Most of our expats point to the lower cost of living in Vietnam compared to their home country as one of the great benefits of their Ho Chi Minh City life.

“My wife and I make a lot less money here in Vietnam, but the overall cost of living is lower than in Canada, so we can actually do a lot more -- dining out, travel, entertainment, it’s all much easier to these things,” said Jason.

For Jason, the lower cost of living in Saigon also meant he could take a bit of a career break, paying others to run his businesses in Canada so he could spend more time with his young sons.

Others named the sheer vibrancy of life in Saigon as the main attraction.

“Experiencing the massive changes that have occurred in this city over the past 11 years, our great circle of friends from many nationalities, working with a great local and expat team in the hotel and enjoying the many activities that happen within the city,” said hotelier John.

Dance teacher Marta, meanwhile, loves the feeling of “always being on vacation”.

For Mara and Michael, it’s the Vietnamese people themselves that is her favourite thing about living in Vietnam. “They always look out for you and help make life easy one way or another, and very welcoming to their country,” Mara said. “As expats, I feel we’re very spoiled here. So it’s good to always try and give something in return.”

Worst Part of Life in Ho Chi Minh City But it’s not all sunshine and skittles. The traffic, the heat and the pollution are the number one bugbears for our panel.

“The pollution levels these days are beyond belief, and don’t think it’s going to get any better,” said Jonny.

Some have quite personal gripes, such Marta, who misses easy access to Polish food.

Social Life

Interestingly, both of the expats who came to Ho Chi Minh City to further their careers say their social life grew from the connections made at work.

“Working as general of the Caravelle for so many years there’s a natural social life that goes with the job and from there I built up a large circle of really great and supporting friends,” John said.

Mara, who arrived in Vietnam a staggering 22 years ago, said her social circle has changed dramatically over the years.

“First I met my friends at my school, ISHCMC,” she said. “Then, after high school and throughout my 20s I met a lot of people through my college and work networks, events and bars. Every year my general circle of friends would change because people left all the time. Now, for the last four to five years I’ve been with the same circle, who I all met at Broma. Best friends ever since.”

Others have built their social life on the great leveler, alcohol.

“My social life revolves around going to pubs,” AsiaLIFE’s Jonny said.

For Jason, a craft beer enthusiast who arrived in Ho Chi Minh City just as the local craft beer scene was taking off, beer was the basis of his social life, and the company he set up here.

“John Pemberton of Heart of Darkness Craft Brewery was my entry point into the craft beer community and through him I met just about everyone else making great beer,” he said. “It’s a small community and everyone knows just about everyone else. I’m also very chatty and despite being warned not to at a very young age, I talk to strangers. My wife parachuted into a large community of Canadian teachers so between us we made a lot of friends very quickly.”

Language

Living in another country is a great opportunity to learn about another culture, and learning the language can offer some amazing insights into a culture.

But it seems Vietnamese is just too great a challenge for most of our panel.

While some have the basics down, and can direct a taxi driver and order a beer, others regret their lack of ability.

“It’s an extremely difficult language AsiaLIFE HCMC 19

It’s an extremely difficult language to learn.

Jason Kucherawy

20 AsiaLIFE HCMC

“As expats, I feel we’re very spoiled here. So it’s good to always try and give something in return.”

Mara Calibara

to learn and my daily life doesn’t require it,” said Jason. “Most of my Vietnamese friends speak English really well, so instead of struggling with learning Vietnamese, we just have fun together conversing in English.”

Mara is perhaps the most fluent in Vietnamese, although she doesn’t consider herself as such. “I can understand it well,” she said. “But can’t speak fluently.”

Expat Resources

Social media was named as the best resource by most of our expat panel.

Jade said the Female Expats in Ho Chi Minh City Facebook page was her go-to place whenever she has a question about life in Saigon.

For Jason and Jonny, it’s still all about the beer.

“From the tight community that’s built a livelihood around making and selling it (craft beer), to the affable people who congregate in the best bars and restaurants that serve it, on top of it being an excellent social lubricant, craft beer has given me a lot of enjoyment,” Jason said.

Jonny, meanwhile, said he has always found networking at pubs to be a great resource. “Sheridan’s Irish Bar, in its day, gave me more business and more friends than any other bar I’ve been to.” Sadly, Sheridan’s closed down several years ago, and Jonny said he hasn’t found the same pub camaraderie since.

Future Plans

With our panel of experts generally happy with their life in Vietnam, how long do people plan to stay?

This proved to be a tricky question for some, including our own Jonny. “If I made plans I would never be here,” he said.

Marta, Jade, Mara and Julio all say they have no firm exit strategy from Vietnam.

“I don’t see it as `short term’ kind of place,” said Jade. “I live with my mum, I have my business and life is easy. Why move?”

“I like to plan for the future but the agenda is always changing so will see what happens,” Julio said.

Mara said she and her fiance plan to leave Vietnam for one or two years after they’re

WHAT ARE YOU USUALLY DOING AT 3PM ON A TUESDAY? Marta: Teaching.

Jade: Working.

Mara: Working.

Jonny: Working and drinking La Rue. John: Attending some meeting or other.

Julio: I have Monday off, so this is when I organise my week and check out everything in the kitchen.

Jason: I’m usually out at a cafe or a restaurant with my laptop working on my business, answering emails, doing the boring stuff a business owner has to do, while enjoying a coffee or a beer.

Michael: Free and easy.

married, but they could very well end up back here for good.

Michael plans to live in Vietnam for “as long as I can” and Jonny also has no plans to leave. However, his kids are keen to live in the UK, while John said he and his wife want to return home some day, but not for another five years or so.

Jason, meanwhile, has already left. He and his wife had always planned to stay in Vietnam for the duration of her two-year teaching contract. The family has relocated back to Canada, but that doesn’t mean they’re gone for good.

“My plan is to return to Vietnam once a year to reconnect with my friends and business partner here and try the new craft beers that appear as the scene grows and new breweries open,” Jason said. “I feel like I can’t NOT come back to Vietnam. I’m leaving a piece of my heart here.”

And that is the thing about Vietnam. It really takes hold of your heart.

One thing is for certain. A sure-fire way to strike up a conversation with an expat in Vietnam is to ask them “why are you here?”

Give it a try. You could make a new friend.

WHAT ARE YOU USUALLY DOING AT 11AM ON A SUNDAY? Marta: Sleeping.

Jade: Sunday is my day off! At 11am on Sunday’s I would be either shopping, exploring the city or depending on what I do Saturday nights sundays may be relaxing at home.

Mara: Getting ready for brunch with my family or munching on hangover food on the couch.

Jonny: Working and drinking La Rue. John: Enjoying a relaxing brunch with my wife either in the hotel or at an outside restaurant.

Julio: Every Sunday I cook a big paella for 50 people for brunch at Tomatito.

Jason: Sundays are family days, so I’m with my wife and kids. At 11am we’re planning what to do for lunch and were we’ll spend the afternoon. Often we’ll make the trip into D2 to lunch at Snap Cafe and visit an indoor play area like Just Kidding, Vietopia, Snow Town, or Tini World. The abundance of child-friendly places like these have made for many enjoyable weekends!

Michael: Family time.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 21

R

ehahn first visited Vietnam in 2007. Together with his wife he had been supporting two young girls in Hoi An through a French nongovernmental organisation, and with a break in work they decided it was an ideal opportunity to finally meet them.

Falling in love with the girls and the historic beauty of the ancient city he promised to return each year. The first trip back was for two weeks, the second a month, the third for two months and then a more permanent move began to make sense.

Rehahn and his wife started their new life in Hoi An the following year. With money from the sale of his company, he bought a plot of land, put it in the two girls’ names and built a house for their family to run as a homestay. As he continued to explore the city and its surrounds he took his camera with him, capturing the familiarly cliched scenes of exotic Vietnam that many visitors take.

Shortly after arriving in Vietnam, Rehahn was invited to visit Sapa, and keen to photograph more of the country’s natural beauty he took his camera with him. Foggy weather prevented him from taking photos of the landscape and instead he took shots of the local people, captivated by the colour and embroidery of their traditional costumes.

Fascinated by what he had seen, Rehahn returned to Hoi An to further research about the ethnic peoples of Vietnam, visiting nearby groups in Hue and Dalat to take more photos of their elaborate traditional clothing.

“I imagined opening a museum to showcase their different costumes and document their stories before they disappear,” Rehahn explained. And so the Precious Heritage Project was born.

To help fund the project he started selling his photos, and in 2016 travelled to France with 20 costumes telling the stories of 20 Vietnamese tribes. The following year he opened his first free museum in Hoi An, displaying costumes from 42 of the country’s 54 ethnic peoples, a collection funded entirely by sales of his photos.

Conscious photography and giving back

Peter Cornish duscusses consicous photography and fine art with French photographer Rehanh.

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As cliched as it may sound, Rehahn believes deeply that what goes around comes around, and like many photographers he struggles with the question of whether he should pay his photographic subjects or not. Each portrait he takes has a story behind it, and ultimately the people who buy his photos are also buying the story.

His Giving Back project helps him balance his conscience and build a personal connection between him and his models. He knows the name of each portrait model, visiting those in Vietnam at least once a year and those in India and Cuba whenever he can. The Giving Back project is not about just handing over money, but about continuing the connection with people who are part of his success.

From the sales of his photos he pays school fees for children, buys cows for families, boats for fishermen or repairs houses damaged in storms. He has covered funeral costs, paid for urgent surgery, bought bicycles for mothers and shared countless meals with models who are now friends. Each person whose portrait is taken has a phone number to contact him with, and a close personal relationship that allows them to call.

His give-back this year is another museum, close to the Laotian border where he visited the Co Tu tribe.

Whilst learning their history, the village elders expressed regret that the younger generation had little interest in their culture and traditions, and concern that this heritage will soon be lost.

The museum is set to be completed in September 2018,

away from the tourist trail and there simply as a place where the younger generation can find answers when they wonder where they came from.

Fine art photography collection

Fine art collection has never been more popular in Vietnam, but the market is rife with fakes. Collecting photographic prints is increasingly being seen as a safer option by high-end collectors, keen to safeguard their investments as well as limiting the embarrassment of on-selling an image that is later found to be fake.

Gallery Couleurs d’Asie by Rehahn in Ho Chi Minh City houses Rehahn’s fine art collection, featuring some of his portraits from Cuba, India and Vietnam.

Confounding many who believed there is no market for photography in Vietnam, Rehahn has found a way to make his photos collectable with limited editions printed on imported, cutting-edge metallic paper.

Through an interplay of transparency and multiple reflections, the metallic paper lends his photos an intense warmth and depth, becoming a true sensation for the eye.

Restricting each print to just 15 copies, the metallic paper holds the image’s strength whereas other papers get weaker with

time – when you’re spending thousands of dollars on a photo you don’t want it to fade. Collectors want something unique, so a limited number are printed, and with each print sold the price increases for the next.

Metallics start at US$1,500 for a print size of 90x60, with a bigger size at US$3,000 for 150x100 With many more Vietnamese now buying photos the country is the biggest market in Southeast Asia. Part of Rehahn’s popularity is the five-star customer service he provides to over 200 serious collectors worldwide. If the photo you buy gets damaged, he will replace it. If you are moving overseas he will send a new, unframed print to your new destination.

As the Vietnamese market expands, expat collectors continue to enjoy a growing second market for his limited-edition photos. In December 2017 a copy of his iconic image of Madam Xong sold to a collector for $30,000 USD, making it the most expensive photo ever sold in Vietnam.

Couleurs d’Asie by Rehahn

Located on Dong Khoi Street down the Art Arcade, turning right up the stairs next to L’Usine Café, Couleurs d’Asie by Rehahn celebrated its first-year anniversary on June

1, 2018. With its location in the heart of the city, a stone’s throw from the Saigon Opera House and surrounded by five-star hotels and restaurants, the gallery has proven the market for his work in Vietnam, welcoming more than 1,000 guests on its opening day.

Displaying his photos from India and Cuba as well as Vietnam, the gallery’s fine art room houses his collection of metallic photos, with smaller prints, postcards and books displayed in the gallery’s second room.

The metallic paper accentuates the colours in his photos, bringing out the magic in each image and capturing the characters of his models.

Still travelling and shooting regularly, there are constantly new images on display, and Rehahn visits the gallery monthly to meet regular customers and introduce the latest prints before the price jumps. It’s best to buy early.

Gallery Couleurs d’Asie by Rehahn Address: 151/7 Dong Khoi, District 1 www.rehahnphotographer.com Telephone: +84 868 894 376 Email: saigon@couleurs.asia Website: www.couleurs.asia Opening times: 8:30 am - 9:30 pm.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 23

24 AsiaLIFE HCMC

By Kadri Lahi, country manager of Emerhub Vietnam.

S

tarting a business in a foreign country can seem like if not a mission impossible, an expensive and daunting journey full of unexpected surprises and a lot of paperwork. Due to a lot of information out there, many opt out of even considering registering a company in Vietnam.

However, as Vietnam is an emerging market most of the information out there is dated or misguided. The fact is that Vietnam is very open to foreign investment and provides more and more opportunities for foreign businesses and individuals.

When And Why?

So, when should one consider registering a business in Vietnam? The answer is, as soon as one starts revenue-generating activities or invests money into something that could start generating revenue in the future.

Registering a business is the first step to grow the business, but also to legally earn revenue while protecting personal assets and funds. For example, not being able to issue VAT invoices or provide a company bank account to clients can become the reason why clients choose a different provider.

Registering a company is also a way to stay in Vietnam legally without having to worry about visa runs or work permit as all founders of a limited liability company are automatically eligible for a long-term visa or a temporary resident card.

What Are The Options As A Foreign Investor?

A foreign investor can register either a branch, limited liability company or joint-stock company to engage in business activities. Out of the three, a limited liability company is the most appropriate for a starting business or existing companies’ that are not looking to trade on a local stock market. A branch is only an option for companies that have been registered overseas for at least five years.

LLC – Limited Liability Company

A limited liability company in Vietnam does not have shares or shareholders. The owners of the company are referred to as members and the ownership is demonstrated as a percentage of capital contributed or as decided between the members.

In most cases, it is up to the founder to determine how many members to include in the incorporation process. The upper limit is 50 members, but it is possible to set up a small one person company. Only industries that require a local joint-venture partner require two founders.

As the name refers, the liability of the

members is limited. This means that provided that the founder is not acting in bad faith, the liability is limited to the capital contributed to the company. For an example, if the capital of a single member limited liability company is US$10,000 and the founder has made the contribution in full, the founder has fulfilled its duty and even if the company gets into financial difficulty the founder’s other assets and funds are safe.

Corporate Structure

An LLC has a two-tier corporate structure, which consists of members’ council and director(s). The director oversees the everyday activities of the company, while the members’ council acts as the supervisory body of the company. The company can have several directors and it is possible to be both a director and a member of the members’ council. The only rule to keep in mind is that at least one of the directors must be a resident.

General Conditions

Registered address All companies will require a registered address before submitting the application to register the company. For most business lines this is a formality and can be resolved by getting an approval from the management of the residential building or using a virtual office service provider.

However, in some business lines, e.g. manufacturing business, the registered address will be visited by the local authority.

Capital The general rule is that the capital of an LLC must be reasonable and realistic. This means that for most businesses the capital contributed can be low, provided that the costs of the company are not high. For example, the capital of a service company that will not hire any employees from the start can start from US$3,000.

The important thing to consider when setting the capital is that the capital undertaken upon incorporation must be paid in within 90 days after the company is registered.

Resident director All companies must have at least one resident director. This person can be a foreigner but will be required to live in Vietnam. If the director is a member of the company he or she will not require a work permit to act as a director.

However, if the director is a foreign individual that does not own any percentage of the company’s capital, he or she will require a work permit and must demonstrate at least one year experience in a managing position

How To Get Started?

The first thing to think about when starting the process of company registration, is to list all the activities that the company will engage in. Once the list is complete, it is possible to determine whether there are any special conditions to consider before moving forward with the application.

Can A Foreigner Register A Company In Vietnam?

Foreign ownership is allowed in most business lines. However, there are some industries such as advertising, tourism, and entertainment to list the few that require a joint-venture partner. While industries such as trading, information technology, manufacturing, consulting, can be 100% foreign owned.

To determine whether to allow the investor to set up a company in Vietnam, the Department of Planning and Investment will look at international treaties that Vietnam is a party to and local regulation on foreign investment. Lack of regulation in a specific industry is neither good nor bad news, as the licensing authority will turn to the government to make the final decision.

Special Conditions

In some industries, the law sets special conditions that need to be fulfilled before the company can start operations. One example is a trading company, which requires a trading licence from the Ministry of Industry and Trade. After receipt of the trading licence, the company can start import/export activities provided that the products do not require further registration or announcement.

Similarly, most businesses in the education sector require a sub-licence from the Department of Education.

What To Expect After The Company Is Registered?

Contrary to the rumours on the market, the compliance of a foreign-owned company is not that much different than a local-owned company. The only key difference is that all foreign-owned companies must have their financial statements audited by a certified auditor and must submit an annual report on foreign investment.

All companies must submit reports to Labour and Statistics Departments.

Provided that your accounting is handled by a local accountant or company providing compliance services, the upkeep of a foreign-owned company does not cause that much more headache than a local-owned company, and should not be a reason to avoid starting a business in Vietnam. www.emerhub.com/vietnam.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 25

AsiaLIFE’s Art Director Thang Pham, who is getting married later this year, takes a look at Vietnam’s wedding traditions.

26 AsiaLIFE HCMC

M

arriage is one of the biggest events in a person’s lifetime. It’s the happy ending to a long process of two people falling in love, after crying, laughing, breaking up and falling in love again.

At some point, they agree to share a life together.

I am getting married this year and there are many things that need to be prepared for my wedding, which will be a traditional Vietnamese wedding. The closer the event comes, the more surprised I am about what’s involved.

Marriage Proposal

Modern-day wedding traditions have been streamlined slightly to save time and money. However, there are still many rituals that are required. Le dam ngo, the marriage proposal, is the first ritual.

In most cases, such as my own, the couple have already agreed to marry. But the le dam ngo ceremony is still an important part of the process.

Le dam ngo is the first official meeting of the families, and during the meeting the groom’s family will ask permission from the bride’s family for the couple to have the relationship and to learn about each other more before they decide to get married. The groom’s family will also take care of choosing the date for the wedding ceremony.

Betrothal Ceremony

This second ritual is considered the official announcement from the bride’s family that their daughter will get married.

This ritual is also an important milestone in the marriage relationship as she is official fiancee of her intended.

On that day, the groom’s family will take offerings to the bride’s family home. The offerings usually include betel leaves and areca nuts, which have a special significance for the marriage. The trunk of the areca palm is straight, signifying the groom’s upstanding nature. Betel leaves are large and round, signifying the bride’s nuturing nature.

The tendrils of the betel vine, meanwhile, represent the entwining of two lives.

A Vietnamese expression mieng trau la dau cau chuyen (areca nut is the start of a story) is also relevant, for the story here is the story of the bride and groom’s new life together.

As well as the betel leaves and areca nuts, the groom’s family will also give the bride’s family wine, cake, fruit, roast pork, gold jewellery and an envelope of cash. This shows the gratitude of the groom’s family to bride’s family.

There must be an even number of offerings arranged in an odd number of boxes. These boxes will be brought by a group of unmarried boys who are the groom’s friends or relatives. At the bride’s house, they will give the boxes to a group of unmarried girls. This part requires some preplanning as there is supposed to be the same number of boys as girls. During this ceremony, the bride will wear a traditional ao dai and the groom wears a suit or an ao dai.

The betrothal ceremony will be held at the bride’s house. After everyone sits and is served tea and cake, a representative of the groom’s family will introduce the people and the reason for the ceremony. When this speech is finished, the representative of bride’s family will speak about how they accept the offerings and proposals. After

that, bride’s mother will take her to greet the groom’s family and relatives. Next, the bride will serve tea to the groom’s family and the groom will do the same to the bride’s family.

Finally, bride’s mother will take some gifts and put them onto the family altar. Then, the bride and groom will burn incense to the ancestors. The rest of offerings will be shared with the groom’s family.

Procession Ceremony

The procession ceremony can happen directly after the betrothal ceremony or up to a a few weeks later. A representative of the groom’s family will ask permission from the bride’s family for the groom to take her home.

Then both bride and groom will go home in a wedding car.

At the groom’s house, they will burn incense to the groom’s ancestors, and greet the groom’s family and relatives one more time.

Wedding Party

The wedding party isn’t part of the traditional wedding rituals, which are celebrated between the two families involved. The party is a newer tradition, a public celebration of the union, and is usually held at a reception centre, with as many invited guests as possible.

In most cases, wedding party guests are greeted outside the reception room by family members seated at a long table. On the table there’s usually a guest book and a wedding money box, where guests place their wedding gifts: envelopes of cash (and the envelopes are usually provided as part of the party invitation package).

The wedding party venue is decorated with photos taken months before the event. There’s usually a big backdrop behind the bride and groom, and a photographer takes a photo of every arriving guest with the happy couple. The groom’s parents usually welcome guests as they enter the reception room.

Once everyone has found their table, a master of ceremonies takes the stage for the official part of the party.

The MC will invite the groom to the stage to greet the bride, who will walk along a red carpet to the stage where the groom is waiting.

After that, MC will invite the bride’s parents and the groom’s parents with the representative of the groom’s family come join with both groom and bride. Next, the representative of groom’s family will give a short speech and toast the couple. Then the groom and bride will serve wine to both families as a thank you. The family members will return to their table and the MC will invite the newlyweds to cut the wedding cake, pour wine into a tower of glasses, serve wine to each other and toast their future with all their guests. This marks the end of the official part of the party.

The guests are then served a multi-course meal. The bride and groom, after a quick costume change, will go to each table thank their guests and toast their big day. Once the final dish has been served, the party is over and guests begin leaving.

The bride and groom usually return to the backdrop to take some more photos with their guests.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 27

Peter Cornish explores the brave new world of conscious fashion.

T

here’s been a revolution happening, quietly, in the background, making changes and gathering support.

It’s become a global movement as mindsets begin to shift, unable to ignore what is happening to people and our planet in the name of cheap, fast fashion.

The revolution was spurred by a tragedy too large to be ignored. On 24 April 2013, the Rana Plaza building in Bangladesh collapsed, killing 1,138 people and injuring another 2,500. This was the spark that ignited the revolution. There were five garment factories in Rana Plaza, all making clothing for the world’s largest fashion brands. Their employees were mostly young women.

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Have you ever wondered who makes your clothes, how much they are paid, what their lives are like? The answers can be found among the victims of the Rana Plaza tragedy. The majority are women, aged 18 to 35, poor, uneducated, working long hours in harsh conditions, frequently abused, and paid barely enough to afford the basics of a meagre life.

These are the people who make your everyday t-shirts and jeans. Clothes bought cheaply and discarded quickly, like the people who make them. The uncomfortable truth is that our thirst for the latest catwalk trends is harming the planet as well as the people who make them. We need a revolution to change this, and like the

untelevised revolution this revolution puts you firmly in the driving seat.

Fashion Revolution was founded shortly after the Bangladeshi disaster, in the belief that to lose so many people in one building and one event was too much to ignore.

Something needed to change. The founders understood that fashion companies need to make sales and profit to survive and grow, but this should not happen at the expense of people’s working conditions or our rapidly disappearing natural environment.

Uniting people from all over the world, they saw change was needed in three areas – model, materials and mindset.

Their manifesto states that fashion should provide dignified work, from concept to creation to catwalk. It should not enslave, endanger, exploit, overwork, harass, abuse or discriminate against anyone. Fashion should liberate the worker and wearer and empower everyone to stand up for their rights.

AsiaLIFE met up with Florence Bacin, who has been co-ordinating the work of Fashion Revolution in Vietnam since 2016, to find out more about the changes being made in the fashion industry here, and how we can play our part in the growing movement. “Much of what Fashion Revolution does is offer the consumer tips and advice of what they can do, to raise awareness about all issues and offer possible solutions,” explained Florence.

Fashion should respect culture and heritage, celebrating and rewarding skills and craftmanship, following the lead of

companies like Fashion4Freedom which was featured in the June edition of AsiaLIFE. The environment should not be negatively impacted during any part of the production process, protecting natural resources, the soil, water and air, and without causing harm to our health. We should not destroy unnecessarily and seek to repair, reuse, recycle and upcycle where possible. Our wardrobes should not overflow with unworn clothes and unwanted clothes should not be discarded to und up in landfills.

Florence is also interim country manager with the Fair Wear Foundation, a Dutch non-profit which sets out to change the fashion industry by showcasing best practices. “There are 90 European brand members who have signed a code of labour practices they implement through their supply chains, committing to improve work conditions and labour rights in all factories,” Florence told me.

Vietnam’s textile and garment sector is one the country’s largest industries and a main contributor to its economic growth comprising in the region of 4,000 businesses and employing more than 4.5 million people. In her role, Florence works with member brands to monitor progress from previous years’ audits as well as supervising a hotline for worker complaints.

“People don’t realise how little money actually goes in the pocket of workers. We don’t talk about fair trade, we talk about a living wage,” she explained. Vietnam’s national wage council focuses on the living

wage when calculating minimal wage, increasing pay significantly more than some countries.

Most textile workers in Vietnam, approximately 90%, are union members, but are not allowed to form their own unions.

Although wage rates are better than other countries, such as India, China or Myanmar, according to a recent study by the Fair Wear Foundation overtime is often forced or not paid at the correct rate.

Other issues facing Vietnamese workers include restrictions on toilet access due to short break times or insufficient facilities, and problems with the social welfare of workers traveling from the countryside to the factories. “We train complaints handlers to make the process smoother, analyse data to form best practices and open social dialogue,” Florence said.

As consumers become more aware of the work conditions in the garment industry, and the environmental impact production has, they are starting to ask questions to brands who make their clothes. #WhoMadeMyClothes provides a transparency index based on information that is publicly available, showing how far brands go to protect their workers and the environment they operate in.

April saw the fifth anniversary of the Rana Plaza tragedy. By using our voices, and considering our purchases, we have the power to change the industry. It won’t happen overnight, but together we are stronger. The more people ask “who made my clothes” the more brands will listen.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 29

HEALTH & WELLNESS

30 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Barbara Adam and Yendy Tsang look into what happens after a traffic accident.

Photo by Romain Garrigue.

A

ustralian Sue Wise was riding home from work on a Thursday evening when she was clipped by a large box on the back of a motorbike that zoomed past her.

The next thing she knew, she was rolling along the road watching her motorbike slide ahead of her.

“Shocked and dazed, I sat on the road for a while,” Sue said. “Suddenly two guys were trying to get me up. The guy who hit me had stopped, looked at me, and left.”

Passersby helped Sue to the side of the road, where she realised she was bleeding from her mouth, she had a broken tooth and her hands and knees were badly grazed. Someone offered to give her a lift home, but Sue knew she needed medical attention.

She tried calling friends for help, but no one picked up. “I decided to go to Family Medical Practice, as it was relatively close,” she said. “The people around me hailed a taxi and started helping me get in. Then I remembered my motorbike.”

Someone told her that “a girl” would take her motorbike to the clinic but Sue only realised she didn’t have the girl’s details once the taxi had driven away.

“I arrived at Family Medical, walked inside and they put me into a wheelchair.

Then a girl came in and handed me the keys to my bike and a parking card. I was taken to the examination room and I didn’t get her name.”

Sue admits she was very lucky in the aftermath of her accident, with people stopping and helping her. She never did get the name of the girl who helped or the driver who clipped her and drove off.

This story is one of the more positive accident stories you hear in Vietnam. No major injuries, and people offering to assist.

But what are you actually supposed to do when you’ve been involved in a traffic accident?

Vietnam’s National Traffic Safety Committee advises people to notify police about any accidents by calling 113. In the event of an injury, call 115. However, it’s not clear whether any emergency operators speak English.

Public Emergency Numbers

If you call 115, you should be prepared to tell the operator the number of victims, the type of injuries, your location and phone number. The operator will organise the nearest traffic police and medical facility to come and help.

The National Traffic Safety Committee recommends recording as much information as you can at the scene of the accident, including the name, phone number and address of everyone involved, and any witnesses. Take photos of the scene, and any damage to the vehicles.

It’s probably also worth taking a photo of the license plates of all vehicles involved, even though not every vehicle sale is registered with authorities, so you may only be able to track the original buyer.

If the police arrive, they should give you an accident information statement, which you can use to claim insurance.

So that’s the official advice, but the reality may be very different. In a lot of cases, the driver who caused the accident won’t stop, especially if a foreigner is involved, because they fear they’ll be required to pay for expensive medical treatment.

Public ambulances can also be quite slow, and the emergency team may not speak English. Many locals opt to take a taxi to a medical clinic rather than rely on the public ambulance.

Private Ambulance Service

Family Medical Practice also has an ambulance service, which can be summoned by calling *9999.

You can call the number for free advice on how to handle your medical emergency, or you can call for an ambulance.

A one-year subscription to the FMP ambulance service is VND575,000 per person a year. Non-subscribers can also get an ambulance service, but the fee ranges from $80 to $225. The ambulance will take you to the most reasonable hospital and clinic for your situation.

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The former East German state of Saxony has a wealth of history as Mark Bibby Jackson discovers on his trip to Dresden and Radebeul.

T

here is a scene in Trigger Happy TV when the show’s creator, Dom Jolly, dressed as a Belgian tour guide, takes a couple of unsuspecting American tourists on a tour of Bruges in a horse-drawn carriage. If you haven’t seen the show then the allusion will most probably escape you, but please bear with me.

Only it isn’t any old tour of Bruges – well, it isn’t a tour of Bruges at all – but rather of the city’s square. It’s on about the third time round the square that the tourists eventually lose their rag, as Jolly keeps on saying “on your right is the town hall”, and demand to be let off. Both show and sketch have lived with me and in part explains my aversion to escorted tours, especially those that involve transport.

This explains my reticence as I get on a hop-on hop-off bus in Dresden, courtesy of the local tourism department, one Saturday morning. Dresden is the UK’s Coventry.

Not the metaphorical place where you are sent to when you have betrayed your fellow workers, but the city that was most heavily bombed in the latter stages of World War II in a game of cataclysmic tit for tat that Trump and Jong-Un might envy.

It is also a city that I have both longed to and dreaded visiting, not knowing what the reaction would be to a British tourist even all these years later.

I need not have worried. The recorded English-language tape on the hop-on hop-off bus hardly mentions the war. An oblique reference to a business person who made a fortune under the Third Reich and a statue that bears a passing reference to a Nazi salute but predates Hitler aside, the guide informs us of the history of baroque Zwinger in the centre of Dresden, its castle, opera house, cathedral and museums, the majority of which were restored in the decades following the Allied bombing.

Zwinger literally translates as cave, for bears used to be kept here, now cars are largely banned as the city aims to reduce its carbon footprint. However, as we follow a circuitous route around the centre through which I walked the previous afternoon, after checking into the Hotel Am Terrassenufer, I do find myself wondering whether it’s Mr Jolly behind the wheels.

The previous evening I had no such misgivings as I was led on an “anti-pub crawl” by the eccentric Danillo, a former teacher and hostel owner, who runs tours of the Neustadt by night. The “new town” on the other side of the River Elbe to Dresden, Neustadt is in fact the original settlement, with the baroque Disneyland on the other side a relative newcomer. This

32 AsiaLIFE HCMC

is where the workers of Dresden lived while the courtiers twirled their waltzes in the Zwinger, until an 18th century fire devastated it. However, it did emerge largely unscathed from the war, at least relative to its sister town across the waters.

Neustadt also has a very interesting history of its own. From 1990 to 1993 the citizens in a 0.7 square kilometre area declared themselves the Bunte Republik Neustadt – the Colourful Republic of Neustadt. A micro-republic much like Christiania in Copenhagen, it had its own laws, currency, passport and coat of arms, the latter two bearing the head of Mickey Mouse, thus making it the original Mickey Mouse Republic.

Despite the republic’s demise, there still exists a Bohemian spirit here that attracts a very young, artistic and political population – McDonald’s is banned, as are banks – and the party lives on well into the night, as Danillo demonstrated. Each June, the Bunte Republik Neustadt is relived in a three-day street party and cultural festival of the same name, with DJs, balcony raves and impromptu performances.

All of which seems a million miles away, the following afternoon as a second hop-on hop-off bus takes me along the glorious banks of the River Elbe with their wide meadows that double as flood plains. My next port of call is the castle at Pilnitz, which has pleasant gardens and fantastic views up and down the river, although unfortunately the castle itself was closed during our visit.

Eventually, I hop off for one last time and emerge in the centre of the Zwinger and glory in the wonderful architecture, before settling down in the main square overlooking the Church of Our Lady for a dunkel beer while the sun is setting.

I am too old for Thomas the Tank Engine, but Ivor the Engine has always held a cherished spot in my heart – second only to The Clangers in terms of quality nonsensical children’s programmes. As such, the following day’s excursion on a steam train to Moritzburg is one that I am looking forward to. Radebeul is a short tram ride from Dresden, and from there a steam train takes you to the castle at Moritzburg.

Standing throughout, as the train weaves its way beside narrow streets where car passengers await with their camera phones at level crossings and then through some beautiful forests, the smoke from the coalfuelled engine almost chokes me. I am blessed as this is the only sunny day on my brief sojurn in Germany. It is blissful.

Right on cue, as our train pulls into the final station, my guide for the castle and its grounds, Kristina Kroemke, is awaiting for me with a driver and a horse-drawn cart – I did say bear with me at the outset.

There are no squares in Moritzburg, only a straight road leading from the station to the castle grounds. Once I discard all thoughts of Jolly and his American prey from my mind, I relax into the trip, and admit that the gentle sound of the horses’ hooves plodding on the stone and the inevitably slow progress we make, ensures a most

relaxing excursion.

Kristina proves a most amenable host, much in keeping with the Moritzburg tradition, where guests were expected to consume two litres of wine upon arrival.

Like the Zwinger, the French baroque castle was designed by the architect Matthäus Daniel Pöppelmann, for King Augustus the Strong, who died of diabetes, possibly from an excess of hospitality. Fortunately, Kristina only invites me for coffee and Eierschecke cake at the Adams Guest House, which has stood here since 1675, at the end of our journey.

In addition to having the grand castle, used as the set for the GDR Czech Cinderella film here in the 70s, in the 13 square metre Pheasant Palace, Moritzburg has the smallest palace in Saxony, built

by August III, the less macho grandson of August the Strong. Sadly, there are no peacocks here any longer just their huts, but the beautiful palace has striking views down to the main palace and is set next to a large lake.

On my way back for dinner at my hotel, the Radisson Blu Park Hotel, I stop off in Radebeul town for another dunkel. The sun is setting and I take my beer out with me to sit on the grass island in the middle of the cobblestone road. Just at that moment a phone goes off in the distance and someone says, “allo” into it, but nothing can destroy the moment. Eventually, I finish my beer and consider how to return to my hotel, perhaps I’ll take the bus?

AsiaLIFE HCMC 33

T

he challenging Ta Nang–Phan Dung hike is one of Vietnam’s best-kept secrets, especially if you love outdoor adventures.

Unlike the more well-known destinations of Ha Long Bay and Mount Fansipan, Ta Nang–Phan Dung is completely undeveloped, with pristine forests, grassy hills and unspoiled waterfalls.

Exploring this beautiful landscape requires a multi-day trek with a heavy pack.

But, trust me, you won’t be disappointed with this hidden gem, which was only developed by local trekkers two years ago.

Getting There

The 55-kilometre trekking route passes through three provinces: Lam Dong, Ninh Thuan and Binh Thuan, starting in Lam Dong province, near the romantic city of Dalat. Ta Nang–Phan Dung is named after the hills and forests the route traverses, the first in Lam Dong province and the latter in Binh Thuan province.

To get to the start of the trek, you need to take a four-hour bus journey from Ho Chi Minh City to Dalat, then another bus to the Ta Hine three-way crossroads. From here, you need to take a xe om to the gate of the Ta Nang hills.

Yendy Tsang discovers one of Vietnam’s hidden gems.

Photos by Bao Le.

34 AsiaLIFE HCMC

The Most Beautiful Trek In Vietnam

The locals say the Ta Nang–Phan Dung hike is “a test for your body, your mind, your patience and even the skills in teamwork”.

The trekking route includes high terrain, many hills, many forests, with elevations

from 500 to to 1,100 meters above sea level.

It’s a challenging walk, mostly without mobile phone service or internet.

So far Ta Nang–Phan Dung has been a word-of-mouth destination, with people raving about the amazing landscapes with 360-degree views of the wild grass hills in Ta Nang, the majestic forests and the magnificent waterfalls in Phan Dung.

Starting from Ta Nang, you will pass through a pine forest, bathed in golden light, to arrive at a wide open hillside, dotted with the small wooden houses of the local people.

It looks like an artist’s rendition of peaceful nature under the crystal blue sky, but these grassy hills have a terrible history, according to Le Quoc Bao, who grew up in the area.

Terrible Past

“In the past, the Ta Nang hills were covered in pine forests,” he said. “The Vietnam War is what made the scenery what it is today.”

During Vietnam’s war with America from 1955-1975, Vietnamese soldiers used guerrilla tactics and based themselves in the thick forests of the Ta Nang hills. To counteract this strategy, the Americans heavily bombed the area to clear the vegetation. “According to the former generation, the bombing destroyed the forests forever,” Bao said. “No pine trees ever grew again, and the only place to live was on the grassy hills.”

Once you pass the Ta Nang hills, walk toward the delta plain, where the descending slopes become steeper, in

front of you is the old Phan Dung forest.

This is a bird-filled jungle of ancient trees, strange plants and colorful wildflowers.

Remember not to touch anything, for some species can be dangerous. Phan Dung also has a forest of dipterocarp trees, a type of hardwood with winged fruit. Navigating the dipterocarp forest is difficult, as the grass can be waist-high.

Bao, who has worked as a tour guide on the Ta Nang–Phan Dung trek for over two years, said the Yavly Waterfall is one of his favourite places along the route. This is a mountain stream lying deep inside the embrace of Phan Dung forest. What can you do with a crystal clear water and unspoiled natural scenery? “Jump in, this is the true rhythm of life,” Bao said with joy.

What to Prepare?

Trekking in Ta Nang–Phan Dung is an interesting trip for those who seek nature scenery and an adventurous experience.

“Nature is precious, but at the same time, dangerous,” Bao warned. “There are many unpredictable accidents that can happen in the wilderness.”

Trekkers should prepare well before the trip, making sure to pack: •A 50-70 litre backpack •Medicine and first aid kit •A reliable tracklog •A knife and a lighter (known to be the essential things for trekking trips) •At least 5 litres of water (for it’s not easy to find a stream) •Enough lightweight food for three days •Camping tent

•Personal items: trekking shoes, sleeping bag, backup battery, warm clothes (it’s quite cold at night) •Good health The best time to do the Ta Nang–Phan Dung trek is from June to September, for the grass fields are still green from the rainy season. A three-day trip is suitable to traverse explore the entire Ta Nang–Phan Dung trail.

During the trip, remember to set up the tent before 5pm each afternoon because it’s dangerous to move through the forest after dark.

If you do get lost, stay on the trail, stay calm and wait for a rescue team.

Locals also tell a spooky story about getting lost along the Ta Nang–Phan Dung trail. They warn not to believe any “soldier” who promises to lead you to safety, as they will hide you forever. These soldiers are believed to be the spirits of soldiers lost during the war.

It’s advisable to only attempt this route with an experienced trekking leader, such as Bao. Bao organises three-day trekking trip to Ta Nang – Phan Dung every weekend.

These trips were initially only offered to his friends, but now Bao is opening up his trips to anyone who is healthy, fit and interested in exploring this beautiful part of Vietnam.

Bao, who speaks basic English, can be contacted on +84 289 879 2017.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 35

TIPS FOR RISOTTOS

BY THE YORKSHIRE

R

isotto is one of the lesser-known Yorkshire dishes. It’s actually from Outer Yorkshire, a place sometimes known as Italy.

It’s a great-tasting dish that most people love. This month I’m going to talk you through risotto making so you can cook it like a pro.

How to cook risotto

1. Make your own stock or broth. Whether it be beef, chicken, rabbit, vegetable, fish or shellfish. It really isn’t difficult to do, and takes the flavour of the risotto to the next level.

Always keep the stock or broth gently simmering in a pan next to the risotto pot. This will reduce your cooking time.

2. Us the correct rice. There are several regional variations but these two varieties are the most authentic: Carnaroli is a sturdy rice that gives a great texture and creaminess. Professional chefs often use this because it can be partially cooked so that once an order is place, it only needs a further 10 minutes to prepare.

Arborio is the rice that most everyday cooks use, who cook risotto from start to finish. It can burn or go mushy very quickly, so you need to watch it carefully.

3. Choose your risotto pot to suit the amount you are cooking. If you have too thin a layer of rice, the cooking time will increase (for complicated reasons I don’t want to go into here.)

4. Sweat your shallots in butter or olive oil, then add garlic to the pan.

5. Add the rice, making sure to coat each kernel in oil. Stir gently, 36 AsiaLIFE HCMC

BLADE

watching for the outside of the rice grains to become opalescent. At this point, add wine (if using) and cook it off. Then add stock.

6. Add two ladles of stock to start, simmer, and as the liquid reduces add one ladle at a time. Keep tasting.

7. Now this may be contentious but I will tell you how I was taught. Don’t stir the rice constantly but also do not leave it alone. It needs to simmer and be turned often.

Once you get to the stage where the bite is not so pronounced, add another ladle of stock and a good minute of vigorous stirring and shaking to detach the starch from the outer to get a creamy texture. This is called the agitation stage. Remove from the heat immediately.

8. Now is the time to add your cooked vegetables, such as mushrooms, carrots, fresh herbs and grated parmigiana. The cheese skins are good for this.

9. Leave to rest for three or four minutes.

10. For a bit of crunch, you can add finely-sliced asparagus stalks or green onion before serving.

11. Be careful when adding salt, keeping in mind what kind of cheese are using. I generally add a little salt to the stock, along with five or six fronds of saffron. If required I’ll season with salt and pepper at step eight.

NOTE: This whole process should take no more than 20 to 25 minutes. If the risotto holds it shape after ladling onto your serving dish, then you have overcooked it (but don’t worry it can be used to make arancini balls). Properly-cooked risotto should slowly spread when ladled onto the plate.

IN MEMORY OF ANTHONY BOURDAIN

BY TRISTAN NGO

Chef, patron and owner of Skewers Restaurant The Elbow Room and Cafe Sweet Street.

T

here are two books that changed my life.

One is The Mediterranean Kitchen by fellow Califorinian Joyce Goldstein, which made me want to be a chef. The other is Kitchen Confidential: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly by Anthony Bourdain, which I read the year after I moved to Vietnam.

Kitchen Confidential grabbed me because it captured the reality of working in a kitchen. No one had really talked about it before.

I heard the news about Bourdain’s death just as I sat down to write this month’s Local Eats column, and it really shook me up.

Of course, by the time you read this, you’ll probably have read dozens of tributes to the late author, chef and television personality.

He had an influence on so many people’s lives.

His work inspired me to write this Local Eats column, and this month I’m not sticking to my usual format. Instead, I’m dedicating my column to the hard-working chefs of Vietnam, my brothers and sisters in arms.

As I know only too well, after 19 years of being a chef and owning restaurants in Vietnam, the job is no walk in the park. But Bourdain helped elevate cheffing from just a job to a profession, a profession that people aspired to.

He was a rebel, an amazing storyteller, unapologetic and passionate. He made local food and travel cool. Losing him should be a reminder of how precious life is, anywhere.

He was also a great ambassador for Vietnam. He called Vietnam “his first love, a place I remain besotted with, fascinated by”, and talked about wanting to move here.

In an interview with CNN in 2014 he said: “my first trip to Vietnam changed my life” and “the food, culture, landscape and smell; they’re all inseparable. It just seemed like another planet; a delicious one that sort of sucked me in and never let go”.

No one can ever know what demons Bourdain faced. But his history of heroin addiction and the fact that he spent 250 days a year on the road (and this kind of travel can be very lonely) were likely to have been factors.

I’m not an expert in depression but I know it’s a very real disease.

When I was younger, I saw a friend struggle with mental illness first-hand. She was lucky enough to overcome her suicidal thoughts with the help of physicians, family and friends.

Like many others around the world, I can’t help but wish Bourdain had reached out for help so he could have found another solution to his pain and despair.

My friend and fellow chef Donald Berger said to me: “Anthony’s suicide hit me hard. Here is a man who rose to stardom and acclaim, wealth and fame, was respected and beloved by millions, was close to his daughter and girlfriend, and yet he couldn’t find a reason for one more day”.

Before Bourdain, Generation Xers were expected to aspire to “respectable” jobs, such as doctor, lawyer, engineer or banker (remember the “greed is good” days of Wall Street?) Musicians, artists and travelers were considered rebellious, outsiders and slackers.

And before Bourdain’s first TV show, A Cook’s Tour, culinary shows were pretty tame. There was Julia Child’s The French Chef (1963-1973), Graham Kerr’s The Galloping Gourmet (1969-1971), and James Beard’s I Love To Eat (1946-1947). Other pioneers of the genre included Jacques Pepin and Martin Yan. But none of these television chefs did what Bourdain did, with his No Reservations and Parts Unknown shows - inspired millions to travel and explore the world through food.

Some of my favourite Bourdain moments include him having lunch with actor Bill Murray, investigating the heroin epidemic in Massachusetts, and - my all-time favourite - having bun cha and a beer in Hanoi with President Barak Obama.

Bourdain was the Bob Dylan of the culinary world, and he will be missed.

His passing has strengthened my belief that the most important things in life are: having a loving family; finding something you love to do; and reducing stress from your daily life.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 37

8

CITY DRINKS

Orient Bar Thao Dien 41 Vo Trưong Toan, Thao Dien, District 2 www.facebook.com/theorientpubsaigon.

Jonny Edbrooke checks out one of the newest watering holes in District 2’s Thao Dien.

Like many bars, Orient lost its original premises in District 1 to development, which is great news for residents of District 2 because its new location is across the road from the Riverside complex.

The Aussie-style pub is bright and open, decked out with high tables, including a couple outside, which provide the perfect vantage point for watching the world go by.

The layout is wide and airy with high ceiling in the bar area complete with huge fan to cool things down as the front wall is basically fully open. At the back is the pool area, separate so you’re not asking people watching the game to move for each shot.

“I really like it here in D2 and the bar is more open than you can get in district one,” Orient’s owner Grant Holliday said.

Up the stairs to the right is an air-conditioned non-smoking lounge, which also has screens for the sport.

As you might expect with an Aussie-run bar, sport is high on the agenda, with a projector in the back and six large, and I must say, very high quality screens on the walls with probably every game you can get connected to.

Of course there is beer with Tiger at VND45,000 a bottle or draught, a tower comes in at VND290,000 for group drinking.

Along with the standard beers 38 AsiaLIFE HCMC

there is the craft variety with six Rooster beers priced VND75,000 and Platinum at VND65,000.

Along with the beer is Whistling Duck wines and Strongbow cider and a full range of spirits.

There is a “buy one get one free” happy hour between 4 and 6pm, just to make things fun.

Pub food comes in two varieties. The pub menu has snacks for drinking sessions, along with burgers, pastas and pizzas, all priced reasonably.

The second is El Chapo Mexican food, which includes a range of tacos, nachos, enchiladas, burritos and more.

The most popular menu item is the El Chapo Quesadilla (VND155,000). This tasty package consists of a traditional tortilla (made with imported massa flour) with a deliciously cheesy filling of red beans, spicy salsa and your choice of beef, pork, chicken or vegetarian.

The area Orient is in was in the past quiet but with access by the relatively new two-lane bridge and the opening of Masteri it’s slowly attracting more venues to open up. It’s a welcome sight to see what I call a “pub pub” opening up here, especially as I live just down the street.

Even better news: Orient’s kitchen operates til 1am, and after the summer school holidays Grant plans to open for breakfast, brunch and lunch.

PIZZA & BIA 193 Dien Binh Phu, District 3, HCMC www.facebook.com/pizzaandbia

Peter Cornish samples the wares of an Italian-trained Vietnamese piazzaiolo.

Photos by Romain Garrigue.

On the corner of the Dien Binh Phu and Hai Ba Trung junction is a funky little pizza and beer joint serving up deliciously different pizza and some of the city’s best craft beer.

Opened a little over a year ago by Vy Nguyen, Pizza & Bia has made a name for itself among residents of District 3 and Phu Nhuan who stop off to grab a beer and a bite.

It’s not a large place, and about half the area is taken up by the open kitchen where you can watch your pizza being prepared and cooked while enjoying a cold beer.

The turn-around time from order to served is about 15 minutes, perfect timing for finishing your beer and ordering a fresh one to accompany your pizza.

Vy is a qualified pizzaiolo and knows her stuff. While

living in Indonesia some years ago she made a trip to Italy and became fascinated by the way pizza is made, impressed by the tossing and whirling of the dough. She had been running cooking classes at home for some time and always dreamed of one day opening her own restaurant.

She returned to Italy two years later and enrolled at the International Culinary School, signing up for 12-hour days to become their first, fully-trained Vietnamese pizzaiolo. And the proof is in the pudding, er, pizza. There are 13 different pizzas on the menu with some quickly recognisable, like the classic Madam Margherita (9” VND145,000/12” VND215,000) with mozzarella, Neapolitan tomato sauce and fresh basil, or The Pepperoni (9” VND175,000/12” VND265,000),

with spicy sliced Italian pepperoni, mozzarella and more tomato sauce.

But Vy also likes mixing it up a little. There’s The Quiet American for the meat lovers (9” VND185,000/12” VND275,000) smothered with ground beef, more Italian pepperoni, ham, pancetta and mozzarella, or the Apocalypse Wow (9” VND185,000/12” VND275,000), with Italian pepperoni, jalapenos, chilli, red capsicum, moozzarella and tomato sauce.

But what is really blowing people away is the Banh Mi Pizza (9” VND175,000/12” VND265,000) with the tastes of your favourite banh mi from the lunch lady around the corner.

Piled with pork belly pieces, pickled carrot and daikon, fresh coriander, sliced cucumber, spicy mayo sauce, mozzarella

and a soy sesame vinaigrette.

Sounds a little weird perhaps but believe me, you’ll love it!

Also on the menu is Madam Vy’s lettuce, cherry tomato and parmesan salad (VND115,000), a generously laden mixed cheese and cold cuts platter (VND225,000) and if you’ve got room for dessert there is affogato (VND85,000) vanilla ice-cream with hot Italian espresso or affogato Frangelico (VND135,000) with Frangelico wine. Delicious!

There’s Heart of Darkness on tap with pours starting from VND105,000, and bottled East West from VND95,000.

Te Te White Ale comes in at VND120,000 for a bottle and imports such as Flying Monkey from Canada start at VND140,000 or Anderson Valley from California start off at VND160,000.

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EL CAMINO 91 Pasteur, District 1 // Opening hours: 5pm to 1am www.facebook.com/elcaminosaigon

Barbara Adam investigates a hidden Korean taco speakeasy in downtown District 1.

Photos by Jonny Edbrooke.

An eclectic mix of dive bar, Korean food truck and speakeasy, El Camino is one of Ho Chi Minh City’s newest -and hippest -- hangout spots.

Despite its hipness, El Camino has a welcoming laidback feel, helped along by friendly staff and some sensational fusion flavours.

The decor is understated, and continues the welcoming vibe, with a reclaimed wood bar, leather banquettes and walls decorated with black and white photos of Hollywood movie stars interspersed with a series on the homeless by Hans Gutknecht.

El Camino is the fourth project for Calvin Bui, of Pop Fries, Sancho’s Cantina and Publik House fame. It’s also his first solo project, and one that gets him back in the kitchen.

Calvin’s kept the menus 40 AsiaLIFE HCMC

brief and simple, but every dish has a unique twist.

The no-fuss drinks menu has a selection of bottled beers, soft drinks and double-shot cocktails, including a refreshing soju and aloe vera number called the Ric Flair. The food menu is also short and sharp, with a heavy focus on snack-y and shared dishes. “We’ve really tried to create some highlevel flavour profiles,” Calvin said as he placed bowls of tortilla chips and dips in front of the AsiaLIFE team.

Unusual and eye-widening flavours certainly were delivered, starting with the Gochugaru (Korean chilli flakes) sprinkled on the tortilla chips and continuing with each dip of bacon and blue cheese guacamole (VND180,000).

The endamame guacamole has a fresher taste and slightly

grittier texture than traditional avocado guac, rounded out with the surprise tang of blue cheese.

The six layers of love (VND170,000), suitable for vegetarians, was also full of surprises: black beans, roasted corn, edamame guacamole, kim chi cherry tomato pico de gallo, pickled chilli, sour cream and green onions. Both dips lend themselves to long relaxed conversations, punctuated by a couple of drinks.

The next two dishes we tried were also perfect bar snacks, the Dalat green chilli poppers (VND135,000) didn’t have too much of a chilli kick, just enough to nudge you into taking another sip of your drink. The El Camino chicken wings (VND180,000), meanwhile, coated with a delicious blend of caramelised

fish sauce, roasted peanuts, pickled chilli, fresh mint and fried garlic, pair perfectly with a pint of icy cold Heverlee draught beer.

The showstoppers were, without a doubt, the El Camino Korean tacos (VND50,000 for one, or VND135,000 for three), which come in four flavours: kalbi beef shoulder with spicy mayo; gochujang (a sweet and spicy Korean condiment) chicken, with roasted pineapple salsa; Korean pork carnitas with fresh kimchi slaw; and brekkie tacos with black beans, home-style potato hash, scrambled eggs, gochujang and endamame guacamole.

The tortillas, made with a touch of non-traditional rice flour, are slightly crunchy, and the fillings very flavourful.

There’s a lot to love at El Camino, hipster or not.

MEAT ME WOOD FIRE STEAKHOUSE 82 Song Hanh, An Phu Ward, District 2 www.facebook.com/meatmevietnam

Jonny Edbrooke gets the lowdown on a new meat-centric place in District 2 that’s outside the expat zone of Thao Dien.

Song Hanh Street*, on the other side of the Hanoi Highway from Thao Dien, is starting to come alive, and the carnivoursly-named Meat Me is one of the first Western restaurants to open there.

With the infamous Donald Berger, of Don’s Hanoi fame, setting up the menu, we expected something pretty good, and we weren’t disappointed.

This cosy establishment, as its name implies, is mainly about meat, and damn good meat at that.

Simply decorated with wood-paneled walls and flooring adds to the warm and inviting steakhouse feel.

The open kitchen greets you next to the main dining room, with a small private room to the side and a larger room upstairs for private functions.

The menu is varied, as long as you like meat with sets, which are great value, all the way up to a 1 kilo tomahawk Australian wagyu rib steak.

Welcomed by the Don himself we sat down for our appetizer, oysters from Chef’s Creek in British Columbia, a delicious start to the meal, full of flavour with a bit of crunch and just the right amount of brine, well worth its price tag of VND95,000 apiece.

Next was one on the nonmeat dishes, we went for Canadian Atlantic lobster baked with cheese thermidor at VND1,298,000. The lobster was delicious, perfectly cooked with the cheese not overpowering the taste of the crustacean.

The other non-meat dish on the menu is tea-smoked Faroe Islands salmon with onions,

capers, dill, cream cheese and grain bread crips, at VND198,000 per 100 grams.

We hit the set menus next, wanting to try a selection.

We started with a 200 gram Australian grass-fed ribeye and 200 gram Australian lamb chops (trimmed of excess fat).

Both come with the soup of the day, herb cheese toast, baked garlic cloves and a choice of Phu Quoc pepper or Bourdeaux red wine sauce.

Now where Meat Me really stands out from other steakhouses is in the cooking.

Both the steak and the lamb chops were cooked to absolute perfection over a wood-fired barbecue, with the fragrant smoke from the walnut in the pit adding an extra rich flavour.

The wine list is extensive, we opted (actually Don

recommended) the Montes Alpha chardonnay for our starters and a MaryLuz pinot noir for the meat.

Meat Me hasn’t forgotten its smaller customers, with a kids’ menu featuring favourites such as cheeseburger and fries, sliced steak with mash, “chicken-fried” beefsteak and fries, with each dish coming in at VND70,000VND. Hopefully we will see more quality restaurants over on the other side of the highway in the future. There’s still a few empty lots over there.

For now, all I need is for someone to build a pedestrian overpass over the highway to I can get back to Meat Me more quickly. *Read more about Song Hanh Street on page 62.

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Upcycled jewellery

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C

harlotte Minko, founder of Eli & Lou, makes jewellery and accessories out of recycled items, including used soft drink and beer can pull rings, Nespresso coffee capsules and fabric offcuts.

The French mother-of-two got the idea of using recycled materials to make jewellery while visiting her in-laws in Germany a few years ago. She complimented her stylish mother-in-law’s jewellery, only to learn it was made out of Nespresso pods.

Intrigued, she decided to learn how to do the craft herself. When the family relocated to Ho Chi Minh City from Shanghai three years ago, she began searching for materials and equipment locally.

The recycled jewellery line is named after Charlotte’s two kids, three-year-old Elias and six-year-old Louisa, who help their mum clean the Nespresso pods and sort the colours.

Charlotte initially sold her Eli & Lou designs at local bazaars. “People loved it,” she said. “Sometimes I have to tell people what they’re made from because if you don’t focus on it, you don’t really see.”

As well as recycled items, Eli & Lou designs use leather, ribbon, charms and upcycled fabric. No two designs are the same, as everything is handmade and therefore unique.

Charlotte initially sourced used Nespresso pods solely from the Nespresso

machine at Starlight Dental Clinic in Thao Dien, where she works part-time. But as more people learned about her crafty ways with the pods, they began giving her their used pods.

Now she sells her Eli & Lou brand, and Aziet Saigon, another line of buffalo horn jewellery, from her home showroom, which can be visited by appointment, and at: The Closet, 81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2 Gift Box, 63 Thao Dien, Thao Dien, D2 My Little Showroom, 153/5 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien www.facebook.com/mylittleshowroom www.facebook.com/EliAndLouVN.

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Model: Ta Thuy Chi Photographer: Alex Cui Dung Collection Director: Ho Tran Da Thao (TSAFARI)

Not just about fashion, Tsafari is about culture and lifestyle. ●Mercedes-Benz Asia Fashion Award 2004 ●International Young Fashion Entrepreneur Award 2008 ●Australian Alumni Award for Media, Art & Culture 2014 www.facebook.com/tsafari.vn.

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listings

hotel & travel CON DAO Con Dao Resort 8 Nguyen Duc Thuan Tel: 0254 4830 939 www.condaoresort.com Modern hotel with 45 rooms and seven villas set on 2km of private beach. Onpremise facilities include restaurant, bar, beach-view swimming pool, tennis court and volleyball. Organizes outdoor activities and tours.

Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist, Ba Ria Tel: 0254 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao The first 5 star resort with 50 villas stretch across a mile-long beach, each villa has its own infinity-edge pool facing the ocean and a stunning restaurant.

DALAT Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 0263 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La

Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

Dalat Edensee Lake Resort & Spa Tuyen Lam Lake, Zone VII.2, Dalat Tel: 0263 383 1515 www.dalatedensee.com Nestled in the heart of the “Black Forest of Vietnam” and discretely hidden along the waterfront of Tuyen Lam Lake, this resort is a perfect launching point for exploring the Highland region. It has two fine-dining restaurants, a café and terrace, a cigar lounge, and golfing and tennis.

Sofitel Dalat Palace 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 0263 3825 444 www.accorhotels-asia.com Stately lakeside hotel was built in 1920s and retains the period’s aesthetic. It encompasses 38 rooms, five suites, a gourmet restaurant, brasserie, piano bar and Larry’s Bar. Golf can be arranged, and there’s tennis, boules, snooker and billiards on premise.

HANOI

Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 024 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 024 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com Conveniently located in the heart of Hanoi’s business district, a 40-minute drive from Noi Bai International Airport and only 5 minutes from the city centre, Mövenpick

Hotel Hanoi is the latest five-star hotel in town, tailored to meet the needs of discerning guests and especially corporate travellers.

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 024 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 024 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

HO CHI MINH CITY

Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 028 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 / Tel: 028 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with gym,

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outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.

swimming pools; library; and tennis, basketball and badminton courts.

Renaissance Riverside 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 028 3822 0033 www.renaissancehotels.com 349 rooms/suites with panoramic views over Saigon River. Conference/banquet facilities, rooftop pool, gym, two restaurants.

NHA TRANG

Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 / Tel: 028 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel: Level 23 bar, Mojo café, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 / Tel: 028 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

HUE, HOI AN & DANANG

InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula Tel: 0236 393 8888 danang.intercontinental.com A world of poetic experiences and jungle-clad romance in a place that cloaks you with luxury. The mastery of traditional Vietnamese design meets modern architectural flair in this distinctive retreat within the dense rainforest of mythical Monkey Mountain.

Nam Hai Tel: 0235 3940 000 www.ghmhotels.com/en/namhai/ Luxury resort accommodation from single villas to sumptuous five-room dwellings with private pools. Facilities include 8 private spa villas; 3 beachfront

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 0258 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. Mia Resort Nha Trang Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa / Tel: 0258 398 9666 www.mianhatrang.com Ultimate luxury resort with 50 rooms, divided into villas and condos, catering by well-known restaurant Sandals and Mojito's bar.

PHAN THIET

Princess D’Ânnam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan.

Tel: 0252 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 0252 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

SCUBA DIVING

Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional

Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI).

We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 0908 781 756 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 0258 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co. with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services.

TRAVEL AGENTS

Buffalo Tours Agency HCMC: Level 8 157 Pasteur, D3 Tel: 3827 9170 Hanoi: 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem District Tel: 024 3828 0702 www.buffalotours.com Tailor-made itineraries, community-based tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips, golfing and premium trips offered by locally run and well-respected travel agent.

EXO Travel HCMC: 41, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3519 4111 saigonagency@exotravel.com HANOI: 3rd Fl, 66A, Tran Hung Dao Hoan Kiem Tel: 024 3828 2150 hanoiagency@exotravel.com www.traveltrade.exotravel.com

M A R L B O R O U G H C O L L E G E M A L AY S I A

A Great British Education

Located in 90 acres of South-East Asia Pupils are taught a British curriculum from British educators who know the value of heritage and tradition. For over 170 years Marlborough College has been synonymous with a first-class British education. Now in 90 acres of South-East Asia we

offer our pupils the same opportunity to learn and to grow from the wisdom of those who have gone before them. We are a co-educational Preparatory and Senior School offering an outstanding education for pupils aged 4-18.

For details of our forthcoming Admissions Events visit: w w w . m a r l b o r o u g h c o l l e g e . m y

listings

food & drink DISTRICT 1 Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 028 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 028 3823 8424 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 028 5410 1093 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Anan Saigon 89 Ton That Dam, District 1 Serves up some incredible modern Vietnamese food thanks to chef and owner Peter Coung Franklin. The restaurant and rooftop bar’s name means ‘eat-eat’, and that’s certainly what the menus encourage you to do.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 028 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer.  Bamboo Chic Le Meridien, 3C Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 028 6263 6688 Slick, minimalistic restaurant boasting a stunning view of the Saigon River as well as a menu of high­quality cuisine that mixes Japanese and coastal Chinese styles. Worth a visit, even if it’s just for a cocktail.

Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, corner of Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 028 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts.

Wood-fired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Bep Me In 136/9 Let Thanh Ton, D1 Home-cooked Vietnamese dishes from all regions of Vietnam, with no MSG, just like you’d be served at a family party in the countryside.

Boulevard Grill Bar Leman Luxury Apartments, 22 Truong Dinh, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City boulevardgrill.com.vn Boulevard might look a little like a cafe in a shopping centre, but the two Vietnamese chefs in the kitchen send out fine dining-style dishes. The comprehensive menu carries a wide array of excellent steaks, salads, pastas and other grilled items.

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1

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94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea.  Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia.

El Camino 91 Pasteur, District 1 Tel: 09 09 26 19 88 A friendly neighbourhood bar blasting old school hip hop and serving delicious Korean-style tacos.

Guanabana 23 Ly Tu Trong, District 1 Tel: 09 09 82 48 30 Guanabana brings a California approach with its all-natural range of healthy smoothies. The smoothies are available in three varieties and are priced between VND 45,000 and VND 65,000.

Heart of Darkness Craft Brewery 31D Ly Tu Trong, D 1 while Heart of Darkness remains the brewery it always was and always will be, it’s now gaining a well-earned reputation as a place to chow down on some pretty decent grub.

Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

In Saigong Rooftop Bar 27-29 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 Tel: 028 9934 4350 The city’s only Wollongong-themed bar, this rooftop bar is a relaxing place to undwind with local and craft beers, cocktails and a varied menu.

Jake’s BBQ 50 Pasteur Street, D1 Tel: 028 3825 1311 Genuine, warm service from Chef Jake himself sets this American Barbeque joint apart. A true slice of Americana in Vietnam. Large portions, smoked meats, and the only ‘Jucy Lucy’ burger in town!  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 028 3822 9926 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Dist 1, HCMC Tel: 028 3827 0931 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. The Dong Khoi branch has recently beed enovated with new menu and decor.



Kay’s Vegan Bistro Hem 84 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 090 395 81 69 Homemade vegan delights from all over Southeast Asia and beyond. With daily specials and ingredients available to take home, it’s a hit with the locals.

Koto 19 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Da Kao Ward, Di1 T: +84 28 3822 9357 E: rese.hcm@koto.com.au This is the Saigon arm of the renowned organisation that began in Hanoi a

decade ago. Vietnamese food is prepared with innovative twist by young people Koto are helping get a start in the hospitality industry and on a path for a better life.

Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 028 3823 2223 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Kissho boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.

La Brasserie 2nd Floor, Hotel Nikko Saigon 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Tel: 028 3925 7777 Offers wide international buffet stations for breakfast and dinner. Nightly live music performance.

La Chola de Lima 74 Hai Ba Trung, D 1 www.lacholadelima.com Tel: 028 3823 8793 The long-awaited newcomer to the food-centric courtyard at 74 Hai Ba Trung, the diversity of Peruvian cuisine is celebrated with a fusion menu showcasing Creole, Japanese and Chinese flavours.

Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 028 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway, decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand.  Layla - Eatery & Bar 2nd Floor, 63 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 028 3827 2279 Created by food and cocktail lovers who wanted to share their passion for great food, amazing cocktails and Australianstyle hospitality in a welcoming converted apartment overlooking Dong Khoi Street.

Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 028 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Nightly a la carte menu with dishes going from 100k VND. Mad Cow Wine and Grill Level 30, Pulman Hotel, 148 Tran Hung Dao Street, D 1 Tel: 028 3838 8639 Casual, almost a homely style of cuisine, and sourced primarily from Australia. “We pride ourselves on great steaks and seafood, with a grass-fed orientated menu” according to Danny Grimshaw, chef and butcher at Mad Cow. Malt 46 – 48 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 09 1848 4763 American-style bar that offers good beer, shuffleboard and an interesting pub grub menu in a casual setting.

Manmaru 71 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Japanese izakaya with a solid lineup of affordable beers, sakes and whiskies.

Whether you choose the casual, pub­like experience downstairs, or the formal dining terrace upstairs, expect excellent food and even better prices.

Service is friendly and efficient and always welcoming.

Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Ming Court 3rd Floor, Hotel Nikko Saigon 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Tel: 028 3925 7777 Featuring authentic Chinese cuisine and a wide selection of delectable All-youcan-eat Dim Sum. Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end café with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs.

Good business coffee or lunch venue.

Mountain Retreat 36 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 90 719 45 57 A rustic restaurant perched above downtown offering a secluded getaway and tasty traditional food.

NAMO Tuscan Grill 146-148 Pasteur, D 1 Tel; 08 3822 1431 Focussing on rustic Italian fare coming off of their custom-built wood-fired grill. The layout is open and relaxed, reflecting the colour and energy of Florence and the Tuscany region.

Old Compass Cafe 3rd Floor 63/11 Pasteur St, D1 (next to Liberty Citypoint Hotel) Tel: +848 3827 2878 The Old Compass Cafe has managed to position itself as a quiet oasis of calm amidst the city’s chaos. The menu is simple and offers a choice of breakfast, lunch dinner, gourmet sandwiches, pastries and desserts.

Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0796 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

Quan Bui Add 1: 17A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 028 38 29 15 15 Add 2: 55 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 From the team behind Quan Bui, the popular casual Vietnamese eatery on the north edge of District 1, is this fourfloor fine-dining restaurant in downtown Saigon. The chic design and ambience, as well as its rooftop garden, are designed to attract a more up-market clientele.

Quan Ut Ut 168 Vo Van Kiet, D1 Tel: 028 39 14 45 00 American-style barbecue meets Vietnam-style dining with big wooden tables and benches that are reminiscent of an open-air quan. Serving a wide range of smoked and barbecued meats.

Quince 37bis Ky Con, D1 Tel: 2838 21 8661 Sister restaurant to Quince Bangkok, serving high-end cuisene developed by chef Julien Perraund working from the open kitchen. A short simple menu based on fresh local produce.

Reflections

Caravelle Hotel, 19 - 23 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 028 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world.

Private rooms are available.

Relish and Sons 44 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 012 07 214 294 105-107 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 90 900 4294 Facebook.com/RelishAndSons Burgers are the stars of the show in Relish & Sons, with six varieties, all composed of different but expertly combined ingredients.  Romeo and Juliet Times Square Building, 57 – 69F Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 028 38 236 688 TheReverieSaigon.com Underground restaurant of the newlyopened Reverie Saigon, Romeo and Juliet is reinventing local dining to encourage the kind of slower, savourthe-moment experience that allows guests to enjoy the space’s ambiance, food and top-notch service.

Royal Pavilion Reverie Saigon Hotel, 4th Floor, 22 36 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 028 3823 6688 Located in the Reverie Saigon Hotel, the Royal Pavilion serves up classic Cantonese cuisine in fine dining style.

Featuring a menu of epic proportions, there is sure to be something for everyone.

Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 028 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu. Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available.  Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 028 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Sancho’s Craft Beer and Mexican Kitchen 207 Bui Vien, D1 090 126 82 26 Real Mexi-Cali food with passion, served with a selection of crafts beers.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 028 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab.

Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas. Stoker Woodfired Grill & Bar 44 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 090 729 2725 District 1 venue with spacious bar downstairs and upstairs dining room.

Serving a full selection of home aged US and Australian beef complimented by a delicious sides.

Tomatito 171 Calmette, D1 Tomatito is all about the sexy, from the bold and colourful Spanish-themed interior showcasing El Willy’s unique personality, to the hot Latin passion in his interpretation of traditional Spanish tapas.

Tandoor 39A-39B Ngo Duc Ke, D1 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events.  The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 028 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

The Racha Room 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 09 08 791 412 RachaRoom.com.vn With street and hawker specialties from Thailand prepared under one roof – and in one room – The Racha Room is a restaurant-cum-lounge fit for a king.

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 028 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Tuk Tuk Thai Bistro 17/11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 028 35 21 85 13 Tuktukthaibistro.com Tuk Tuk, a chic new modern Thai bistro. With three floors of seating, an open-air roof area and an array of Thai dishes to excite your palate.

Union Jack’s Fish and Chips Upper Deck, 130 Ton That Dam, D1 Jack’s Fish & Chips is a tribute to this traditional British fare that harks back to the childhood of owner Matt Ryan, who grew up on the A30 road from London.

Urban Kitchen + Bar 18 Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 028 62 506 363 UrbanKitchenBar.com Urban Kitchen takes a nuanced approach to Western cuisine, producing an eclectic compilation of regional North American dishes – whether it’s comfort food of the American south, Quebecois specialties or East Coast-inspired.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine.Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.

Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

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DISTRICT 2

ambience, with a gorgeous garden setting designed to attract a more upmarket clientele.

Buddha Bar

D2 By Rupert Dean

IMBIBE WINES IN VIETNAM - A VIEW FROM THE TOP TABLE Ho Chi Minh City is such a vibrant high-speed that I consider myself lucky to have caught up with Joan Ibanez, director of food and beverage at the JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay, during his recent visit here.

Joan has been working with wine for more than 20 years in three-starred restaurants in Spain, as well as stints in well-known hotels in Asia.

“Now is an exciting time in Vietnam for wine drinkers as more and more famous and interesting wines become available each year,” he said.

“Certainly in the two years that I’ve been here, the interest in wine in this country has continued to grow. We naturally witness a preference for red wine in the domestic market and maybe as much as nine out of every ten bottles sold at our restaurants are red, whereas with our foreign guests, the reverse is true.”

He went on to add that “I also notice an interest in wine and wine knowledge in particularly the 30- to 40-year-old age groups. I believe that prestige and aspiration are key drivers of this interest, but I also recognise a developing interest in the pairing of wines with food. At JS Marriott we run food and wine experiences to capitalise on this. This involves showcasing selected wines with southern Vietnamese cuisine and these events have become very popular.”

“Currently full-bodied red wines from southern Italy and Bordeaux are the most popular with our guests plus

reds made from the cabernet sauvignon, malbec and shiraz grape varieties. These are generally wine styles with soft tannins and ripe fruits. In the white wines we find that the sauvignon blanc and pinot grigio are the dominant grape varieties but we are noticing a growing interest in regions such as Burgundy. Wines with a small level of residual sugar are also relatively popular, but unfortunately we do not see much interest in sparkling.”

Finally, I wanted to understand Joan’s opinion of the future development of wine culture and professional service in Vietnam. “I believe we will continue to see a growing interest in wine and this will diversify into other regions and styles.

Regarding the wine service, Vietnam is already showing a great potential in this area and it would not surprise me to witness high quality wine services here in the future, with world class Vietnamese sommeliers emerging,” he said.

Joan and I selected two wines of the month: La Cour des Dames Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 (Pays d’ Oc, France). Elegant, complex and velvety with good intensity. VND430,000.

Le Paradou Viognier 2016 (Ventoux, France).

Great choice for pairing with Vietnamese food; slightly sweet, fresh, zesty and mineral. VND450,000.

WHERE TO FIND: Wine Embassy, 41 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, D2.

Rupert Dean worked in the wine industry and now lives in HCMC working for Regency International. He can be contacted on rupertdean@regencyint.com.

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7 Thao Dien, D2 // Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise. 

BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrellashaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room.

With revamped menu which includes a mix of family-style meals with Mexican featuring predomominately, followed by Italian and Asian fare.  Bia Craft 90 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2588 A cozy bar serving beer­themed snacks and some of the best craft ales in Saigon. Constantly buzzing with the friendly chat of local expats in the area.

District Federal 84 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2 Serving only the very best Mexican (not Tex-Mex) food, Mexican chef Luis Reyes creates the menu. Luis’s menu focuses on homemade and authentic Mexican food.

Ebisu 66 Song Hanh, D2 028 6276 8787 The city’s soba noodle specialists bring authenticity and professional service to the Japanese table. Sushi and grilled skewers are also specialities, DTwo Sports Bar 55­57 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3519 4138 Stylish non­smoking sports bar offering all the latest action on a choice of widescreen TVs. Perfect for sports fans who are looking for a cold pint and big portions from a tempting pub grub menu. Mad House 6/1/2 Nguyen U Di, Thao Dien, D2 Founded in 2015 by a couple of dedicated foodies from Denmark, Mad House has become known for its northern European style of honest, unpretentious comfort food as much as its homely yet stylish environment.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches.

Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  Thai Street 26 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 08 6654 9525 Authentic Thai menu in a casual garden setting.

Quan Bui Garden 55 Ngo Quang Huy, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3898 9088 From the team behind Quan Bui, this D2 spot has all the chic design and

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 028 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

DISTRICT 3 Boulevard Grill Bar Leman Luxury Apartments, 22 Truong Dinh, D3 A wallet-friendly bistro sending out fine dining-style steaks, salads, pastas and other grilled items. Don’t miss the set lunches.

Cha Ca La Vong 3 Ho Xuan Huong, D3 Tel: 028 3930 5674 36 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 028 3915 3343 Two Ho Chi Miny City outposts of the legendary Hanoi original serve only one dish: the eponymous and delicious cha ca la vong, fish pan-fried at the table with turmeric and dill and served with cold noodles and peanuts.

Com Nieu 19 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 028 3932 6288 The house specialty, com nieu (smashed rice), comes with a shattered-crockery and flying-rice show at this well-known restaurant, prominently featured in Anthony Bourdain’s A Cook’s Tour. An extensive and tasty selection of southern Vietnamese cuisine rounds out the menu.

Jardin Des Sens 251 Dien Bien Phu, D3 Tel: 0122 585 9069 Mediterranean-influenced fine dining in a historic French colonial villa, Jardin Des Sens is the latest project of twin French chefs Jacques and Laurent Pourcel.

DISTRICT 5 Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 028 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

DISTRICT 7 Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 028 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

Speakeasy S35-1 Le Van Thiem, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 093 722 11 03 The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 028 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends.  Q.itchen Factory

2nd floor, Lot DVTM-9, Road 7, Tan Thuan Export Processing Zone, D7.

Viva Tapas Bar & Grill 90 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 028 54 106 721 Tucked away on a quiet street in Phu My Hung, Viva is colourful and welcoming and has both indoor and outdoor seating. Tapas make up the bulk of the menu and cover traditional dishes as well as a few house specialties that put a quirky twist on things. 

nightlife See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

Saigon Saigon Bar Rooftop via 9th floor, Caravelle Saigon Hotel, 19 - 23 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 028 3823 4999 A great iconic bar to watch the sun go down over the city skyline, or dance the night away. The panoramic views of the city are spectacular, particularly in the evenings. Live entertainment nightly with Cuban band Q’vans except Tuesday from 9:00pm till late.

BAKERIES Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery.

Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more.

Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am.

Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

Voelker 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 028 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

at home DELIVERY

Established 1997

Patty’s Kitchen www.facebook.com/ homecookhealthyfood Home-made meals for pick-up or delivery. www.vietnammm.com A free website that allows users to order delivery from dozens of restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City.

Simply provide your address and phone number and pay the delivery driver in cash when he arrives

GROCERIES

Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 028 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2630 Takashimaya Saigon Center 65 Le Loi, D1 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products. Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor.

Cosy café serves coffee, drinks and sandwiches.

SSC 21st Anniversary Party on Saturday 21st July

Big thank you to all of our customers for supporting SSC since 1997. Beers, BBQ, giveaways, promotions and 21% off all of our stock.

Kim Hai Butchery 46 Nguyen Thai Binh, D1 C Tel: 028 3914 4376 This town is definitely big enough for two Australian butchers. Reasonably M priced imported beef, fish, chicken, and more at this original neighbourhood Y fixture.

CM

Meatworks Butchery MY 1, Street 2, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2565 CY Imported meats from Australia, including top-quality beef and lamb, CMY and locally sourced pork and chicken..

Proudly Australian owned and K managed.

MegaMart An Phu, D2 Tel: 028 3740 6677 Tan Thoi Hiep, D12 Tel: 028 3717 2979 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares-basically everything.

Organik 11A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 273 3841 arlene@organikvn.com www.organikvn.com Online grocer based out of Dalat selling a range of organic vegetables and groceries, as well as imported allnatural products.

Phuong Ha 58 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 028 3914 1318 A mini-supermarket that sells an extensive assortment of imported packaged food, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and fine wines.

Veggy’s 14 Pham Hong Thai, D1 Tel: 028 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Popular expat market with a walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

Vietnam’s only 100% foreign owned and fully licenced 1-stop scooter shop 151 Luong Dinh Cua , Phuong Binh An , District 2 , HCM City.

Open every day 9.00am until 5.30pm. Tel : 0903013690 www.saigonscootercentre.com For more info - info@saigonscootercentre.com

listings By Phil Kelly

FITNESS COULD FASTING SAVE YOUR LIFE? I don’t want to be a slave to the gym or to my diet… I follow a lifestyle that enables me to not worry about food, about having a few beers or going out socializing.

I want to remain healthy and active for as long as possible. I want to feel young and energetic long into the later years of my life.

Hence my research has lead me to partake in exercise, nutrition and lifestyle habits that achieve this goal without being an extreme “health nut” or “fitness freak”.

Now that I’m over 40 years old, optimum health and fighting the aging process are my main goals. “If you’re over 40 and don’t smoke, there’s about a 70% to 80% chance you’ll die from one of four diseases: heart disease, cerebrovascular disease, cancer or neurodegenerative disease” (Peter Attia, MD) Through my research there seems to be one activity that provides protective benefits against all of these diseases…

Fasting.

What Is Fasting?

A true fast is defined as abstinence from all food and liquid for a defined period. There are so many different types of fasting including water fasting or dry fasting. These are defined as true fasts because there are no calories being consumed. Other fasting protocols like, juice, intermittent, restrictive, keto and religious (Daniel fast, Tzomot, Ramadan, etc) fasts should be called “fast-mimickingdiets” as they are completed with the consumption of calories.

If you are over 40 years old and care about your health then performing a fast could just save your life. Fasting done properly doesn’t need to make you feel

miserable, weak, lose muscle mass or suffer from cravings.

Keto-fast-mimicking-diet (KFMD) provides incredible health benefits, enables you to maintain muscle mass, improve your performance as well as restores your digestive strength and gut health.

Longevity Benefits of a KETOFAST: 1. Potent anti-cancer effects: If you don’t have cancer and you do a KFMD two or three times per year, you could purge any precancerous cells that may be living in your body! Therefore, if you’re over the age of 40, a KFMD seems like a smart insurance.

2. Protect your brain – there is wide spread research proving that ketone bodies, especially B-hydroxybutyrate, provide neuroprotection against diverse types of cellular injury. When the brain is using ketones for fuel it seems to be protected against Alzheimer’s, dementia, Parkinson’s & ALS, while also helping with autism and epilepsy.

3. Anti-aging: Prolonged fasting using a FMD protocol triggers a powerful anti-aging process called autophagy. In autophagy, our bodies “recycle” old cells that no longer work. Then it replaces them with new cells that work much better. New cells mean new body... This helps us burn fat, look younger and feel better.

Fasting done correctly will boost this autophagy process to maximise this natural “fountain of youth” process within us. Regular fasting throughout the year can be one of the most effective actions that might save your life or at least maintain the quality of your life experience into the later years.

sports & leisure

54 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

GOLF DANCING

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 028 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Salsa package for single persons and couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm). Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA

AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 028 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment.

Available for party hire - BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes.

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 028 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge work-out area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Hollywood Fitness World H3 Building, 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 Tel: 028 3826 4639 One of the latest & best workout environments in the city, suitable for all ages and fitness levels. Personal training is offered.

NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 028 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain.

FOOTBALL & RUGBY

Phil Kelly is a health practitioner and expert in body transformation. His services are available at Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com).

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 0263 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees. Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009-yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 0251 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards.

The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city.

The Bluffs Ho Tram Strip Phuoc Thuan, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria - Vung Tau Tel: 064 378 8666 http://thebluffshotram.com/ info@thebluffshotram.com Designed by Greg Norman, The Bluffs is a 50-hectare 18 hole links-style golf course associated with The Grand Ho Tram Strip integrated resort, about a 2.5 hour drive from Ho Chi Minh City.

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0274 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course. Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

LEISURE

Rangers Baseball Club Isao Shimokawaji isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball club always looking for additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon International Softball League sisl@saigonsoftball.info www.saigonsoftball.info The league plays slo-pitch softball every Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese School in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes newcomers.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals.

Also hosts events and birthdays.

listings

health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE

American Chiropractic Clinic 161 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 028 3939 3930 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by American-trained chiropractors speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treatsback pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specializing in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 028 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn Care 1 Executive Health Care Center in the Manor is the main facility for health screening and wellness check-ups.

To fit into your busy life, Care 1 offers one stop service - modern, comprehensive healthcare services and state-of the-art facilities all in one place.

Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment. The Institute also provides acupuncture lessons.

DENTAL

Accadent 39 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 6267 6666 A clinic that brings leading German dentistry to Vietnam. All dentists here were trained in Germany and all equipment comes from Germany to ensure proper hygiene and quality.

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 24 Thao Dien, D2 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 028 3822 6222 With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. With the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

Minh Khai Dental Clinic 199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 028 3925 3399 nhakhoaminhkhai@gmail.com www.nhakhoaminhkhai.com No.1 Dental Clinic 51 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 028 3929 0909 nhakhoano1@gmail.com www.nhakhoano1.com Located in District 10, No.1 offers general dentistry services include fillings, checkups and teeth cleaning and specialist

dental care that includes dental implants, orthodontics (braces), endodontics (root canals), prosthodontics (false teeth, including dentures, crowns and veneers) and cosmetic dentistry, such as laser teeth whitening.

West Coast Dental Clinic 27 Nguyen Ba Lan, D2 Tel: 028 3519 1777 www.westcoastinternational.com

PEOPLE AT HEART

CENTRE MÉDICAL INTERNATIONAL Fondation Alain Carpentier

MEDICAL Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 028 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynecology, pediatrics, ophthalmology, psychology, psychiatry, osteopathy, acupuncture and psychomotor therapy. .

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3822 7848 95 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2000 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby.

Also in Hanoi and Danang.

ÊTRE PROCHES DE NOS PATIENTS RENFORCE LA QUALITÉ DE NOS SOINS

BEING CLOSE TO OUR PATIENTS STRENGTHENS THE QUALITY OF OUR CARE

VIỆC GẦN GŨI VỚI BỆNH NHÂN NHẰM TĂNG CHẤT LƯỢNG DỊCH VỤ CHĂM SÓC

General and tropical medicine • Pediatrics • Cardiology • Obstetrics/Gynecology • Traditional oriental medicine • Psychiatry • Psychology • Osteopathic medicine • Psychomotor therapy • Speech and language therapy • Childbirth education classes • Home nurse service •

HANH PHUC, International Hospital Binh Duong boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 3636068 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. 260 –bedder, provide a comSKINCARE prehensive range of quality healthcare 120x85mm.indd 1 services: Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Paediatrics, Immunization, IVF, Health checkup, Parentcraft, Woman Cancer, Cosmetic Surgery… Just 20- minute driving from HCMC. HANH PHUC International Hospital Clinic 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 028 3925 9797 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. The clinic is located at the center of Dist. 1, provides a comprehensive range of services specializing in Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Peadiatrics, Immunization, General Practice and Emergency. Open hours: Weekdays: 8am to 5pm; Saturday: 8am to 12pm.

Raffles Medical Clinic 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 028 3845 4218 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

Victoria Healthcare 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 028 3910 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

Open with doctors on call 24/7.

01 Han Thuyen, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Tel: (84.28) 3827 23 66/67 - Fax: (84.28) 3827 23 65 Email: info@cmi-vietnam.com

The Body Shop 216 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 028 3820 5845 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 028 3823 3683119 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 028 3923 2918 Parkson CT Plaza, Tan Binh Tel: 028 6297 2095 Parkson Cantavil, D2 Tel: 028 6296 0265 Diamond Plaza, D1 Tel: 028 3822 1887 check out more outlet via website www.thebodyshop.com International cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products.

The Face Shop 81 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 028 3829 3058 Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3507 0800 Vincom 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 028 3936 9308 Parkson Cantavil, D2 Tel: 028 37407180 check out more outlet via website www.thefaceshop.com.vn Stamford Skin Centre 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1

Tel: 028 3925 1990 www.stamfordskin.com The Stamford Skin Centre has grown to include qualified specialists who treat 3/16/2018 8:44:08 AM general diseases of the skin such as acne, eczema and other forms of dermatitis, rosacea, psoriasis, skin cancers.

Offering treatments for simple blemishes and outbreaks on a person’s face, a long standing melasma, acne scars, wrinkles or sagging skin that if treated, removed, or substantially improved.

listings

family ACTIVITIES

Conservatory of Music 112 Nguyen Du, D1 The established training centre for professional musicians offers private piano and violin lessons to foreigners in the evenings.

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, D 2 Tel: 028 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events

AsiaLIFE HCMC 55

available on-line.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes for kids from age six.

BABY EQUIPMENT

By Shannon Brown

EDUCATION HUB ADHD AND GENDER ADHD - or attention deficit hyperactivity disorder - is a chronic mental condition which causes disruptive behaviours and is usually diagnosed in childhood.

Symptoms of ADHD include difficulty focusing, sitting still, and staying organised. There are various levels of severity of ADHD and many different treatment options. Recently, doctors have determined that there are important differences in how ADHD commonly presents itself in boys and girls.

In girls, ADHD can often show up as being withdrawn, inattentiveness or the tendency to daydream or space out, trouble focusing, appearing not to listen, low self-esteem, difficulty with academic achievement, and verbal aggression. Women are more likely to be diagnosed with ADHD in their 30s or 40s, often after their child has been diagnosed. Women with the condition often have issues with depression and anxiety, as well as panic similar to post-traumatic stress disorder. By adulthood, men and women receive ADHD diagnoses at nearly equal proportions.

In boys, ADHD often presents as hyperactivity, running, hitting, physical aggression, inability to sit, excessive talking, impulsivity, and interrupting activities or conversations. Since these behaviours are more likely to cause disruptions at school, boys are three times more likely to be diagnosed in childhood. However, the reverse symptoms can also

be exhibited. Most girls who present with the hyperactivity symptoms are diagnosed and treated, while girls and boys with inattentive symptoms often go undiagnosed and without help.

As a parent or teacher, it’s important to watch out for all of these signs. If a child suddenly begins to exhibit these characteristics, it could be a signal that something has changed in the home or school environment, and could also be a signal that abuse has occurred. We must be mindful that ADHD is overly diagnosed in many Western countries and try to understand the root of the problem.

If you suspect your child has ADHD, it’s important to take them to your doctor or specialist for an evaluation.

Getting an early diagnosis and treatment can improve symptoms and limit other disorders from developing later in life.

According to research, ADHD persists from childhood to adulthood in 50 to 66% of cases. Treating ADHD is not only about medication. In children, studies show that daily outdoor play can reduce symptoms, as well as sticking to a consistent bedtime. Good nutrition, social skills training, and behavioural therapy also play a big part in treatment.

For more information, please get in touch with the International Centre of Cognitive Development in District 2. Ph: +84 0965 729 346. Email: ICCD.hcmc@ gmail.com.

Shannon Brown works in international education in Ho Chi Minh City and has a background in social work, public heath, and early childhood education.

56 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Maman Bebe L2-11, Vincom Quang Trung, Go Vap 3rd Flr Parkson Hung Vuong Plaza, D5 L2-11K, Vincom 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 52-54 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 191 Hoang Van Thu, Phu Nhuan S11-1 Sky Garden 1, Phu My Hung, D7 The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

CLOTHES

Albetta 32 Tran Ngoc Dien D2 58 Nguyen Duc Canh, Tan Phong, D7 Albetta is a British family owned company, with a factory in Saigon, which produces beautifully designed and handcrafted clothes, gifts, shoes and accessories for children. Their new Lucky Luca collection shown are available in Albetta shops now.

DLS Paris Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Little Anh – Em 41 Thao Dien, D2 A French brand made in Vietnam offering a wide selection of colourful, simply packaged and thoughtfully collated “sets” of garments for girls and boys from newborn to 10 years old. Lifestyle pieces also available include sleeping bags, bedroom accessories and bags.

Ninh Khuong 42 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 71B Dong Khoi, D1 22 Nguyen Trai, D1 344 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 343 Hai Ba Trung, D1 27 Le Van Sy, Phu Nhuan www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

EDUCATION ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 028 5431 33/34/35/36 office@theabcis.com www.theabcis.com Judged “an outstanding school” by British Government Inspectors, the ABCIS is accredited by CIE, AQA and Education Development Trust and members of COBIS and FOBISIA. Serving 2-18 year olds in a caring environment, it delivers

a globally valued curriculum based on best UK practice. This culminates in the award of IGCSEs and A levels from the Cambridge and AQA examination boards. These “gold standard certifications” afford entrance to the very best universities around the world.

American International School 220 Nguyen Van Tao, Nha Be, HCMC Tel: 028 3780 0909 www.ais.edu.vn info@ais.edu.vn Established since 2006, American International School is a private school serving students from Preschool through grade 12. Operate on 2 campuses, the school offers innovative American curriculum with true Vietnamese heritage.

All students are well prepared for academic success appropriate to their needs and aspirations in the US and around the world.

The Australian International School Xi Campus (Kindergarten) 190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 028 35192727 Thao Dien Campus (Kindergarten & Primary School) 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Thu Thiem Campus (Kindergarten, Primary, Middle & Senior School) 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway) An Phu ward, D2 Tel: 028 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with 3 class campuses in District 2, HCMC, offering an international education from Kindergarten to Senior School with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programe (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

British International School www.bisvietnam.com Early Years and Infant Campus 101, Thao Dien Street, District 2.

Junior Campus 225 Nguyen Van Huong Street, District 2.

Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2335 BIS HCMC is the largest international school in Vietnam and operates from three purpose-built campuses in the residential area of District 2, catering for students from pre-school to 18 years of age. The school provides a broad, balanced and differentiated curriculum to within the framework of the National Curriculum for England. Staffed primarily by British qualified teachers with a minimum of 3 years’ experience. Students are prepared for both IGCSE & the IB Diploma programmes. BIS is a member of FOBISIA & fully accredited by the Council of International Schools.

EUROPEAN International School 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien.Tel: 028 7300 7257 www.eishcmc.com jura.cullen@cantab.net The EUROPEAN International School Ho Chi Minh City (EIS) offers an international education from Early Years through Primary and Secondary School. EIS is committed to educating students to become creative critical thinkers and problem solvers. In small student centred classes, students are immersed in a multicultural learning environment which values multilingualism. The language of instruction throughout the School is English; the language program includes Spanish, German, French and Vietnamese.

By Paul McLardie

PEOPLE FINANCE WILD WEST For many years, the term emerging markets has been bandied about with great enthusiasm by fund houses and financiers as the next up and coming thing that should sit alongside the BRIC (Brazil, Russia, India and China) funds that everyone should have a small part of their portfolio in.

Another term that is used is the frontier market. Guess what? Once again, these are no more than groupings of separate countries with a tenuous connection.

You can see the meeting in the marketing department of the bank being carried out by people with surnames as first names. “Hargreaves, Mayweather and Klein, we need people to buy into some stock that we hold and don’t want to anymore. If we can just take five percent of our customers’ portfolios, that should be enough”.

That could be one of the only explanations for the any Frontier Markets Index tracker fund.

How else could you explain grouping together 29 countries from Argentina to Vietnam.

While the MSCI frontier index is just that, an index and you can’t invest directly into it, there are funds that use the MSCI research for the weighting of their own tracker or mirror funds there are a few reasons why you should only invest in these funds with a massive amount of caution.

As a collection, one way that so many different countries group together is the low levels of income per capita.

These countries tend to have a perceived bias toward to a smaller, less balanced and more volatile stock market with lower levels of shareholder and corporate governance.

Secondly, the massive

diversification across the board could lead to no real focus. The states representing the Middle East are predominantly based around oil where Argentina is very heavily based around commodities. Again on a macro front, would you take the political stability of either Lebanon or an EU member in Slovenia?

On the flip side, it is said that through the huge diversity inherent in these funds, it reduces the volatility if you invest across the sector and gives people a chance to invest in areas they but in all honesty, if you are not a specialist investor and your risk profile means that you should be investing in lower volatile areas, there are many ways to reduce your volatility and your risk at the same time.

These are Argentina, Bahrain, Bangladesh, Burkina Faso, Benin, Croatia, Estonia, GuineaBissau, Ivory Coast, Jordan, Kenya, Kuwait, Lebanon, Lithuania, Kazakhstan, Mauritius, Mali, Morocco, Niger, Nigeria, Oman, Romania, Serbia, Senegal, Slovenia, Sri Lanka, Togo, Tunisia and Vietnam.

What a mix of countries this is. With no other collective grouping other than its peopleshaving a lower income.

The only main selling point to me is that they give people a chance to invest in areas that they wouldn’t normally. Yes, so unless you are a specialist investor with a high risk threshold, just stay clear of these funds.

There is a reason why they are called frontier. Think Wild West, think some people will make money and the most will not. Think Hargreaves, Mayweather and Klein collecting their bonuses.

Paul McLardie is a partner at Total Wealth Management. Contact him at Paul.mclardie@t-wm.com.

International School HCMC Primary Campus 28 Vo Truong Toan St.,D2 Secondary Campus 01 Xuan Thuy St., D2 +84 (28) 3898 9100 admissions@ishcmc.edu.vn www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School. Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures. With two campus; Primary and Secondary.

www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre that provides kindergarten and pre-school education for children aged between 18 months and 6 years. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

The International School HCMC American Academy 26 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 028 3898 9098 www.aavn.edu.vn The International School Ho Chi Minh City - American Academy is a worldclass middle and high school for children aged 11 to 18 years old. Offering a comprehensive academic program built upon the principles and standards of the American education system..

ENTERTAINMENT

International School Saigon Pearl 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh District Tel: 028 2222 7788/99 www.issp.edu.vn The International School Saigon Pearl (ISSP) is a world-class Elementary School for children aged 18 months to 11 years old offering a full American school curriculum in Vietnam. With a custom built primary campus ISSP’s ethos is centered on building caring relationships with each child and family.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 028 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 028 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn An International British school providing inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. The school has made a conscious decision to limit numbers and keep class sizes small to ensure each student is offered an education tailored to meet his or her individual learning needs. It is a family school providing a stimulating and secure learning environment with first-class facilities including a 350-seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 028 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

SmartKids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 Tel: 028 3744 6076

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 028 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 The top floor arcade and bowling alley is bound to keep your little ones entertained for hours with an impressive array of video games.

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 028 3827 7008 The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

PARTIES

Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of hand-made fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more. The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other costumes.

Bibi Clown - Chu he Bibi Tel: 0933 131 012 bibiclown.blogspot.com Does exactly as his name suggests.Great service has earned him a reputation for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons and games in both English and Vietnamese.

The Balloon Man Mr Hoat 0903 837 326 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. He will come to your place for decoration but English not as good. Also provides helium balloons.

listings

living CAMERAS

Kiet Camera Ground Floor, Lucky Plaza, 69 Dong Khoi, D1 Ver reliable shop with large range of kit and very good prices. If he hasn’t got in stock, Kiet can quickly find it.

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1

AsiaLIFE HCMC 57

An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS

By Gary Woollacott

PEOPLE MATTER CLIENT CONUNDRUMS My week had been moving along nicely, dealing with clients and candidates – juggling commitments as always – and everything seemed to be falling into place.

Apart from one client, there seemed to be so much back-and-forth about small stuff, things that we really could deal with in one phone conversation.

This had been going on for a couple of months – variations to this and that, here and there.

We had many questions about the role and the kind of person they wanted to recruit as their country manager in Thailand.

We finally managed to secure a time, after many changes, to speak with the managing director in Singapore to find out exactly what skills set and type of personality he wanted to hire.

We were totally ready for the call, and we had sent a list of questions so that he could prepare himself.

When we called, exactly on time, the person who answered the phone seemed clueless as to why anyone would call at all, then we were finally passed us on to the head of human resources.

The head of HR turned into apologetic mode: yes, the MD knew about the meeting, but he wasn’t back from a prior engagement and didn’t leave any instructions about where he would be – this was despite the call having been arranged for several days.

Of course we know that emergencies crop up and people are suddenly,

unexpectedly, unavailable.

But for most of us when that happens, we take care to cover off with our colleagues anything that is office-related so that someone else can handle it.

The fact that the MD didn’t make any contingency plans started me thinking that he doesn’t much care about dealing with us, or respect our time, or – perhaps – even really want us to do the recruitment for him. (That would be odd, as he was the one who engaged us, but never mind.)

So what do we do? Press on with HR and hope that the MD comes back to the party?

I’m in two minds – part of me says not to bother, but the part that always wants to see things through is saying exactly that: see thing through, and finish the job.

For the next few days though, we are going to wait and see what happens. If we receive nothing from them to try to reconvene that meeting then I am going to have to accept that they really don’t want things to go forward with us.

Perhaps the perfect person walked in the door, or perhaps they changed their minds and really don’t need to recruit.

Either way, it would be nice to know. Leaving things unfinished or unresolved isn’t the way I like to do business.

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is an executive search consultant who works for Horton International in Vietnam, Thailand and Laos. He can be reached at +84 8 3910 7682 or via woollacott@hortoninternational.com.

58 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 028 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor.

Thuan My 32 Cach Mang Thang 8, D3 2 Thao Dien, D2 Apple Authorized reseller and Premium Service Provider of Apple computers and products. Excellent service and Englishspeaking staff.

ELECTRONICS

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 028 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to refrigerators.

Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITURE AustinHome 42 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 028 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam.

Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 028 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

CO-WORKING SPACES

Dreamplex Level 9 – 10 – 11 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, District 1 Tel: 028 7306-6880 dreamplex.co A coworking space for startup entrepreneurs, creatives, consultants and investors to work collaboratively or privately. There’s a meeting hub to connect enterprises with domestic and global investors, as well as assist with

recruitment.

The Hive Saigon 94 Xuan Thuy, District 2 Tel: 028 3620 3481 thehive.com.vn Open spaces and private offices in a three-storey building for creatives and entrepreneurs. Part of a network of coworking spaces throughout Asia.

PepperHouse 19 Hoang Sa, District 1 Tel: 028 3910-2028 pepperhouse.asia PepperHouse provides a space to stay and work in Ho Chi Minh City. Bright, open, and the perfect place to hunker down to get some work done and network.

Saigon Coworking 101 Cu Lao, Phu Nhuan District Tel: 0965 100 244 and 0902 740 106 saigoncoworking.com One of the first coworking spaces in Saigon, Saigon Coworking was founded for startups and networking for young foreign entrepreneurs. The space partners with local professionals to help with legal, financial and IT consulting. Has an onsite kitchen and green rooftop garden.

Start Saigon 18bis/14 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 1 Tel: 028 6682-8580 start-saigon.com Start Saigon is a 24/7 co-working space dedicated to information technology start-ups and entrepreneurs. With a rooftop garden, pool, fast optical-fibre internet, and a meeting room, they also host after work parties and barbecues.

Workyos Viettel Complex, Tower A 12th Floor, 285 Cach Mang Thang Tam, District 10 Tel: 028 6288-2882 workyos.com Drop in and work in one of the open spaces, or rent a desk or private office longer-term. Branding consultation available from the experienced staff. Also available are meeting and event rooms, a bar and a “relax” room.

RECRUITMENT

First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 028 3910 2080 www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services.

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 / Tel: 028 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity.

The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

Horton International 5F, Vitic Building 6B Nguyen Thanh Y Street, D1 Tel 028 3910 7682-3 www.hortoninternational.com Established in HCMC in 2005, Horton International services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. Horton International is one of the world’s leading executive search groups with 50 offices in 30 countries. For more information, contact vietnam@hortoninternational.com.

RELOCATION AGENTS

By Wayne Captriotti

SAIGON PET

Unit 2404, 24th Floor Pearl Plaza Office Tower, 561A Dien Bien Phu Street, Ward 25, Binh Thanh District Direct: 84 8 3840 4237 http://www.crownworldwide.com Want to avoid making mistakes??

To learn how contact Crown for all your relocations needs. We provide services Internationally, locally and commercially as well as provide storage solutions long and short term.

PET BOARDING

boarding b

There is a growing demand in Vietnam for pet hospitality services, as more and more pet owners begin treating their pets as family members. Sometimes, it’s just not possible to take your four-legged kids along on business trips, family visits or vacations. So, a safe, clean, comfortable, well-managed pet hotel or boarding kennel is required. These facilities usually offer short term (two to three nights) to longer term boarding.

Pet hotels are indoor boarding facilities consisting of rooms or suites mimicking the home environment, often associated with pet shops or veterinarian clinics. The other type of service is a dog boarding kennel, which usually consists sleeping kennels and a large off-leash outdoor area where socialisation and interaction of dogs is maximised.

Over the past few years, pet hospitality service providers have flourished in Vietnam. The first pet hotel was set up by a pet lover and author, Nguyen Bao Sinh. The Bao Sinh Cat Dog Resort, which opened in Hanoi in 2000, is a five-star boarding service which some say has set the standard for the pet hospitality industry in Vietnam.

This country’s pet hospitality industry is not regulated, unlike in other countries where there is a rigorous licensing process. Prospective owners and personnel are screened to determine if they have the appropriate knowledge and experience with dogs or cats. Some countries have governing associations that set standards with strict policies, rules and regulations, including

periodic on-site inspections for cleanliness and acceptable behaviour of boarded pets. Not so, in Vietnam.

To protect pet owners, their pets and boarding service providers in Vietnam, a detailed application process should be expected with a form signed by both parties. This form will allow a service provider to build a profile of your dog or cat including name, known health issues, vaccinations*, age, sex, breed and behaviour, especially regarding aggressive or anti-social pets. The form should include all vital contact information from both parties, especially in case of emergency. Essentially, this application form should resemble a contract with terms and conditions. This application and screening process will also allow the pet owner to consider if their pets are actually suitable for boarding.

Finally, both parties must acknowledge and agree, in writing, that there are potential risks and liabilities with boarding. Dogs are unpredictable, especially when interacting with other dogs.

Dogs may get hurt or damage property. The service provider should include a release waiver of liability detailing extra costs that might arise from incidents at the boarding facility, including but damage of property and emergency medical treatment.

Dog owners should provide an up-to-date health passport to show they’re vaccinated against distemper, canine parvovirus, bordetella, rabies, canine influenza and kennel cough. All dogs must be spayed or neutered and be free of fleas and ticks.

Wayne Capriotti, who has owned pets (dogs, cats and fish) in Vietnam for eight years, is the co-founder and publisher of Me Thu Cung (Passion for Pets), one of the first pet magazines in the country.

UTS Saigon Van Intl’ Relocations 1st Fl, 214 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 028 3744 7102 MOVING!? www.saigonvan.com Full service relocating agency with ware! housing, handyman, insurance & claim, ! orientation an partner career support services also availble. !"#$%&&'(!)%*#)%&&'(!+),-.)%*#)%&&'/!

0#1.!2#3-(!#4$-(!5%$,#.'/!! !6--7!8,#.%9-!/! :&%))+)9!,#!.-&#$%,-!;#.&7;+7-/! ! !"#$%&$''(")*'+,"-%,'.%*$#/*0'

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<=>=?!@!AB!!A!!CDBB!DEFG!!!!H!!!!8%&-8I8%+9#)J%)K$#3! ! <%)#+?!@!AB!!B!!CDEA!LDEM!!!!H!!!!+)5#I8%+9#)J%)K$#3! www.saigonvan.com

Santa Fe Relocation Services 8th floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 028 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com vietnam@santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around world, Santa Fe offers local & international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration & records management.

listings

fashion ACCESSORIES

Accessorize Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Ipa-Nima 71 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 028 3824 3652 77 Dong Khoi, D1 Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

READY TO WEAR unisex L’Usine

151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Retro KID 345/3 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 0909 168 350 Featured Street wear imported from Thailand and US as well as local designmen’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of accessories.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 028 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men’s, women’s and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

men

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 028 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

women

ER-Couture Boutique 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2411 www.er-couture.com erolskov@er-couture.com Exclusive Scandinavian brand offering designer garments. Versatile fashion for women in European sizes 34-44. Each style is released in limited quantities and can be tailored to individual taste.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

TAILORS

Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 028 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 028 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men. Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy.

Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 59

BATTERY BIND

S

ummertime in Saigon marks the end of the school year for the international community. The exodus of expats ensues as families take advantage of the school holidays to go back to their respective countries and teachers set out to explore destinations they have yet to see. Alas, as August approaches, the holidays come to an end and everyone starts to trickle back in.

And every August, like clockwork, we get visits from people who experience the notorious case of what we fondly call at the shop, “battery bloat”. Same story all around - left their spare phone, tablet or computer in the safe or in a drawer while out of town for the summer holiday and when they return - Poof! They come back to a bulging battery.

Just because your iPhone is off, it still draws incremental amounts of charge from the battery, causing it to slowly, yet continuously, discharge. At the point when the battery’s lithium-ion cells are fully drained, the cells burst causing the battery to bloat. To avoid this, make sure you charge your phones to at least 40% before shelving them for extended periods of time.

In this case, a little charge really does go a long way.

What we should remember is that batteries are always in a state of decay.

This is what they are designed to do. This means that in time, your battery will not power your device for the same amount of time as when you first got it. So while we’re at it, here are some other tips to maximize your battery’s life.

Keep it Cool

A battery’s worst enemy is heat. Avoid 60 AsiaLIFE HCMC

placing it in areas where the ambient temperature is likely to rise above 35 degrees Celcius as this can permanently damage your battery. Similarly, avoid exposing battery-powered devices to extreme cold conditions. Although the latter tends to disable battery function temporarily as opposed to irreversibly damaging it the way heat does. The optimum range for batteries to function are between 16 to 22 degrees.

Live Larger with a Proper Charger

Skimping a few thousand dong on a cheap cable and wall plug is easy on your pocket, but hard on your battery. On the outside, they might look the same, but the reason why those cables at Saigon Square are so cheap is because they use low gauge wires. Basic physics tells us that the amount of power and current those internal wires carry is determined by their length and thickness. Basically, cheap cables have cheap wiring which do not provide the proper amount of amperage to charge a device correctly, hastening the decay of your battery. Likewise, a cheap wall plug that does not juice your battery with the right watts and amps can heat your battery up which decreases its lifespan.

Be a Hero and Don’t Go to Zero

Has anyone ever told you that you should only plug your device in to charge when you hit zero percent? That may have been sound advice for the older nickel-cadmium batteries, but almost all our devices sport a lithium-ion battery, which does not necessarily require cycling a battery to zero. Most electronics gurus will tell you that it’s not so much how many times you

plug and unplug your device during the day, but how many ‘charge cycles’ you achieve. The best definition of a battery charge cycle is constituting a charge of a total of 100% (ie. charging from 20%70% in the morning is a 50% charge or ‘half cycle’, and then charging it again in the afternoon from 50%-100% is another 50%, bringing it to a ‘full cycle’). Most batteries have a lifespan of about one thousand charge cycles and if we consider that the average user cycles their phone battery everyday, for example, then we would need to replace our phone batteries every two and half years.

The Overnight Charging Debate

We have to thank advancements in modern battery technology as most devices today have software and hardware enhancements which significantly reduce their current draw once battery charge has hit 100%.

However, the debate on whether or not overnight charging is good for a device is a prevalent topic in tech-geek circles. What’s worth considering is that battery charging is a heat-inductive mechanism and even though today’s tech cuts current to a fully charged battery, it’s still plugged in which means it’s still drawing a trickle of electrical power. This can potentially cause a battery to overheat while you’re asleep, especially if you’re not equipped with proper charging accessories. Perhaps an overnighter from time to time may not be so detrimental to our batteries, but doing it on a regular basis may not be ideal.

If you don’t get anything out of this article, perhaps at least this makes you think twice about leaving your charging phone under your pillow when you fall asleep at night.

street smart

SONG HANH STREET DISTRICT 2

O

ver the past few years, Song Hanh (parallel) Street in District 2 has developed from a line of empty lots leading to Metro wholesale supermarket to a bit of an entertainment district in its own right.

Metro has been rebranded as MegaMarket, and remains one of the main reasons expats travel along Song Hanh. But it’s not the only reason to spend time in this leafy canal-lined street, popular with local fisherfolk.

The street is bookended by two prominent buildings, a vine-covered half-built building at one end, and the enormous and ornate Phap Vien Minh Dang Quang temple at the other.

The first few metres of the street are relatively uninspiring, featuring a handful of makeshift cafes and drink stands.

Then comes the impressive De Station (6 Song Hanh), a three-story homage to barbecued goat and beer. Banners draped across the front of the building advertise Budweiser beer and World Cup 2018 broadcasts.

Next door are two furniture shops, Vinmus (16-17 Song Hanh) and JL Furniture (9 Song Hanh), the first of a series of such shops along the street.

A few more metres along the road gets you to a big local barbecue and beer joint, Quan Lao Tru (12 Song Ha), dedicated to the fine art of barbecue and beer (or nuong and bia if you speak Vietnamese.

Lau Tru is one of the more upmarket local establishments, with a menu that includes some Mexican, Thai, American and Korean flavours and a surprising selection of salads.

Even though you dine under fairy lights, it’s 62 AsiaLIFE HCMC

not all light and airy here. Quan Lao Tru likes to use the hashtag #SorryForFatingYou in its social media posts. www.facebook.com/laotrubbq Quan Que (42 Song Hanh) is one of the many little lunch places that face that canal.

It’s one of those open-air places that look out into the street, with its cooking station at the front. This clean and neat setup specialises in chicken dishes, such as xoi ga (chicken with sticky rice), goi ga (chicken salad), chao ga (chicken rice porridge) and my personal favourite, banh uot ga, a simple dish of fat-cut noodles, fragrant fresh herbs, sliced onions, fried shallots and nuoc cham topped with strips of boneless chicken.

The next notable milestone is a big pharmacy, A Chau 2 (60 Song Hanh), that, as well as the usual stock of pharmaceutical and herbal remedies, has wheelchairs and walking frames.

Ebisu (66 Song Hanh) is one of several Japanese restaurants in the street, and certainly the prettiest, with its fluted roof tiles outside and plastic cherry blossom-strewn interior. Ebisu specialises in udon and sushi, but also offers a good selection of Japanese beer snacks, such as steamed endamame beans and tsukune (chicken meatballs).

There are also spectacularly presented sashimi platters and hotpots. Ebisu is also a quiet and air-conditioned refuge from the traffic and heat of Song Hanh Street. www.facebook.com/ebisu2udonsushi Mega Market, the supermarket formerly known as Metro, is one of the main drawcards in Song Hanh Street. This sprawling warehouse-style supermarket, which takes up an entire block, used to

cater solely for wholesalers buying in bulk but now anyone can walk in and shop. Mega Market sells everything you could possibly think of, from printers to flipflops. But it’s the food selection that draws most people in, including many chefs and restaurant owners from all over the city. Fresh produce is delivered on Mondays, but Friday afternoon is also a great time to drop by, as all the promotional stalls mean your kids can basically get a free dinner by the time you’ve done your grocery shop. www.mmvietnam.com The big drawcard on the next block, which contains a series of little cafes and eating places, is the Parkson Cantavil highrise tower. As well as apartments, Parkson Cantavil contains a shopping centre, with a multi-screen cinema, and a Big C supermarket, as well as an ubiquitous Highlands Coffee.

Another highrise development, Estella Place, is currently under construction next to Parkson Cantavil.

The final sight on the street is the Phap Vien Minh Dong Quang temple, named after Minh Dang Quang, a Buddhist monk born in 1923. The complex has been extended and renovated many times since the first building was built in 1944. It’s now a Buddhist temple and training school, with multi-storied pagodas, and a peaceful landscaped garden full of marble sculptures.

Technically the address is 505 Hanoi Highway, but we’ve included it in our Song Hanh Street roundup because it is such a notable and imposing sight. www.facebook.com/ apvienminhdangquang.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 63

hancock in se asia

HERE TO STAY

I

first came to Southeast Asia, albeit very briefly, in 1987. I was passing through on my way to New Zealand and had a couple of days in Bangkok. I was, back then, very inexperienced in world travel and tentatively ventured out of my hotel to visit the local area. The thing that struck me the most was that this was not like anywhere I had seen. Visit any European big city and there is a sense of the familiar. Do the same in Southeast Asia and there most certainly is not. I was smitten.

Fast forward 18 years and I was watching TV with my sons on Boxing Day 2004 when the terrible news broke of the massive 9.3 earthquake and the subsequent tsunamis that claimed over a quarter of a million lives in 14 countries. I vowed there and then that I would come to Thailand to at least spend some holiday cash.

By pure coincidence my football team announced their pre season tour a few months later, it was going to be in Bangkok. I bought my tickets, jumped on a flight and made a one week trip that was to change my life forever.

Within two days of arriving in Thailand’s capital I had decided that I was going to emigrate. It took me three years to put everything in place, but during those three years I made 14 trips to Southeast Asia.

Emigration was simply going to be cheaper!

64 AsiaLIFE HCMC

One of the best things for me about living there in was the stoicism of the locals. That shone through more than ever in the aftermath of those dark, dark days after the tsunami.

It seems that absolutely nothing daunts them. In the West we get floored by the most trivial things at times but out here it is so much different.

On a day to day level, there is one way that this manifests itself at this time of year, every year. The epic monsoon rains that arrive in biblical proportions would bring a Western country to its knees. In Southeast Asia it is merely an inconvenience.

I was in Buddha Bar in Thao Dien recently when an unbelievable downpour deluged the pub. With minutes there was water everywhere. The staff immediately jumped into action and using various techniques simply swept and cajoled the water into the restrooms and down a drain.

With an hour or so, fans had dried everywhere out and all was back to normal.

It didn’t even interfere with the afternoon’s pool games among the local expats.

This kind of flooding in the UK would undoubtedly lead to bars closing, headlines on the news, insurance claims and people talking about it for weeks.

I suppose after the turbulent history of the region, it is natural that whatever life throws at you, is going to be less worrying

than previous experiences. It is though a thoroughly good place to live.

They call Thailand “the land of smiles”, but that can be applied to the whole region.

Everywhere I go I’m greeted with smiling faces. People pull up alongside me me when I’m on my motorbike and shout greetings. It’s a daily occurrence. Children greet strangers here with an openness that has been driven out of children in the West by fear. The overriding feeling I get here is optimism and it is so refreshing after life in the UK. I’m here to stay.

Following a successful 25-year career as a singer/ songwriter/musician, Keith pulled out of the rat race and moved to Southeast Asia in 2008. First living in Thailand, then Cambodia and Ho Chi Minh City since 2013. www.inseasia.com

LIVE & GIVE

J

an Peeters spent 30 years in the construction industry running his own successful business, but ten years ago he gave it up to start a new life. Arriving in Vietnam in 2007 he initially intended travelling the country and enjoying a simpler life, but quickly fell in love with the optimism of the people and the dynamic of the rapidly developing country.

Struck by the generous hospitality of the Vietnamese, many of whom were living in poverty, he felt compelled to give something back to the people who had welcomed him so warmly. Aware that just a small amount of money could create a huge impact, Jan wanted to create something tangible where

the results were easy to see. He decided to build a school.

Looking for local partners who could help him with his vision he found a small group of nuns in Pleiku, caring for 20 or so local orphans and struggling to make ends meet.

The kids were housed in a small shed on a local coffee plantation and Jan persuaded the nuns to donate 4,000 square feet for him to build a small paradise for the children.

Returning home to Belgium, Jan shared his ideas with friends and family and soon had raised more than enough to fulfil his goal and the founding of Live and Give. He returned to Vietnam, found a contractor and started building in 2009, with every penny raised

going directly towards his project. The first boarding school he built now houses more than 100 kids, each of which is provided food, clothing, school books, and an education for their future.

Since building the first school, Live and Give have built a new kindergarten for young minority kids aged three to six. Run by the nuns from Saint Paul the Chartes, the school provides essential education to ethnic minorities who do not speak Vietnamese as a first language, helping to build bridges between the Ja Rai people and local Vietnamese.

With the help of more donations, especially from Bru Textiles, who give enough to build a new school each year, Jan and Live and Give have built a professional bakery near the orphanage in Thien An. The bread helps generate an income to help fund the other projects and now employs two professionally trained bakers who bake fresh bread daily for the kids to enjoy.

Now Jan has built schools, a library, bakery, sports hall and computer lab, as well as planted a vegetable garden to ensure the children have access to fresh vegetables.

More donations have meant Live and Give have been able to buy two cars to help transport children and nuns around the local area. They are also used by the nuns to visit local leper colonies who are dependent on the nuns for support.

A modest man, Jan takes nothing for himself, funding the day-to-day operations from his own pocket and his Vietnamese business, Deco Crete. With help from others he is continuing his work to bring welcome opportunity to the disadvantaged children of Vietnam. http://liveandgive.eu.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 65

In SaiGong Pub Quiz

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