AsiaLIFE - Cook Like You MeanIt

tom dichristopher

While brainstorming this year’s food issue, we wanted to address a problem with last year’s food issue. We heard from readers that the Cook Off feature was great to look at and fun to read, but it didn’t leave them with a lot they could use. So with that in mind, we decided to get our hands dirty and hopefully inspire you to do the same in your kitchen.

In our feature story, Thomas Maresca stepped into the city’s kitchens and spoke to chefs about the tricks of the trade to help you apply some professional knowledge to your stovetop. (We tried to get him to wear chef’s checks. He did not oblige). And since many of us are without ovens, we also turned to local restaurateur and chef Edward de Carle for some simple desserts you can make on the burner or in the fridge. Last, we sought out advice for incorporating substantial vegetarian dishes into a dietary restriction-friendly dinner party.

Special thanks to Thanh Charles, Erwann Serene, Neil Declaire, Edward De Carle, Geoff Deetz, Andres Ertle, Tony Fox, Nicole Hankins and Marco Cortesi for contributing their kitchen knowledge. While we’re on the subject of food, I’d like to touch on the City Bites section. Every now and then, someone asks the question: “You just write about advertisers, right?” Our policy is fairly simple. We only write about new or revamped restaurants we feel are worthwhile. So what are our guidelines? First, at least two staff must eat at the restaurant. Next, we revisit to try more dishes and confirm that the quality is consistent. We then introduce ourselves to management and set up a meeting to coordinate a photo shoot and interview the chef about the restaurant’s background.

Why do we involve the owner? Because we don’t consider these reviews in the traditional sense. Yes, we do describe the dishes, but our purpose is to give readers a sense of the menu. We continue to write about new restaurants because readers report that they want to know about them. We’ve been invited to new restaurants where we feel the menu needs work, and we’ve related this to the owners. We’ve also written about restaurants that we know have no intention of advertising. Quite simply, we don’t see the value in smearing restaurants—or any other businesses. We use our time instead to notify readers about restaurants that have found their stride, write about local cuisine and interesting food trends, and interview chefs.

If you still have questions, reservations or doubts about City Bites or any other section, we’d be more than willing to field them. Email me at tom@asialifehcmc.com—if we get enough feedback, we’ll be happy to publish the emails along with our responses.

Likewise, if you’re a local entrepreneur launching a new business or an old hand with news to share, we want to hear from you, whether or not you ever plan to advertise. The best contact for news, openings and events is deputy editor Ginny Becker (ginny@asialifehcmc.com).

We hope you enjoy the food issue. Next month, AsiaLIFE will examine the state of Vietnam’s economy halfway through the year of doom and gloom. We’ll be speaking to experts about what’s in store for the near future and what unexpected potential the downturn presents.

Find AsiaLIFE articles on Vietnewsonline.vn

Photography - Guy Gonyea

Tel: 090 849 0622 Email: guygonyea@mac.com

Concept & art direction - Jennifer Watson & 365 Days

Creative Studio

Alison Lapp hails from San Francisco, California. She got her start in journalism covering the European Union and general Belgian cultural oddities for the Associated Press in Brussels, Belgium. She then moved back to the United States to work for a small community newspaper in Boston, but gave up heavy jackets and intense debates over trash collection schemes for Hanoi's warmer clime. When not working on environmental issues, she’s out discovering the pulse of the city and sending dispatches to AsiaLIFE magazine.

AsiaLIFE seeks editorial intern

AsiaLIFE seeks a highly organised editorial intern dedicated to cultivating the skills necessary to thrive in a professional editorial office. The intern will support a three-person editorial staff and two junior writers. Duties include copy and line editing, copywriting, proofreading and basic administrative tasks. Schedule and length of internship is flexible but candidates must commit to regular office hours. This is an unpaid internship with an allowance for work-related expenses. Prior editorial experience is not necessary, though some background in communications, public relations or a related field is strongly preferred. Command of English grammar and style is a must. Please submit CV, cover letter and writing samples to tom@asialifehcmc.com, with a cc to ginny@asialifehcmc.com. Please state an ideal internship length in your cover letter.

news & events

Miami Opening

Months of preparation will pay off this June for Black Catfounder Geoff Deetz, who will open new District 4 restaurant Miami. The large, interactive dining spot will specialise in Vietnamese seafood dishes like hotpot made with premium ingredients. There’s a marketstyle selection of fresh food, and guests can watch chefs prepare their meals. Rotating promotions are available throughout the three dining rooms and open-air rooftop space. Miami is located at 23 Ton Dan near the new bridge (see map).

Aussies Take Saigon Cricket Trophy

Despite its vow of alcoholic abstinence, the English Cricket Club of Saigon was unable to muster enough wickets to overcome the Australian Club, which walked away with the championship cup last month at the 2009 Dr. Laurie Haywood SCA League Grand Finals. The Saigon Cricket Association followed up the event with a sixes tournament and charity donation to a local school to promote sports for kids. The league will host friendly games at RMIT throughout the pre-season. Check the Sports & Leisure listings for club contact information if you're interested in getting involved.

RISS Presents $1000 to East Meets West

The Renaissance International School Saigon presented a cheque for $1,000 to East Meets West’s Village of Hope in Danang, a home that offers shelter, food, education and skills training to orphaned, disadvantaged, displaced and disabled children. RISS students raised the money by auctioning off their artwork at an event held in March. This month the school will raise money through EMW’s Hoops for Hearts programme to provide funds for life-saving pediatric cardiac operations.

Delta Opens Office in Vietnam

Starting June 1, Delta Airlines will fly between HCM City and its Tokyo hub, where passengers can make connections to nine U.S. cities, including Los Angeles, Atlanta, Detroit, Portland, Seattle and San Francisco. Currently, United Airlines is the only U.S. carrier that flies to Vietnam, with daily service between San Francisco and HCM City via Hong Kong.

Chocolate Home Delivery

Grand-Place Chocolate, the first chocolate manufacturer in Vietnam, is starting a delivery service that will bring high quality chocolate buttons, blocks and Napolitains to your door.

Grand-Place’s pure cacao butter products are made using Belgian recipes and ingredients selected from around the world, including pods from Ghana and sugar from Vietnam. The company currently supplies a number of well-known bakeries and restaurants in the country, and its chocolate is exported throughout the region.

The delivery service is open on weekdays for a minimum order of 1 kg. Order from delivery@grandplacechocolate.com.

Yoga at DanCenter

New family-friendly restaurant Typhoon took up residence last month on the waterfront at Riverside Apartments, introducing HCM City to a varied slate of mains, sandwiches and Sicilian bread pizzas influenced by the gulf cuisines of Southeast and East Asia and Central America. The menu is complemented by a selection of tropical cocktails, imported beers and Old and New World wines, served at the table or by Riverside Apartments’ pool. 20,000 VND Budweisers and 35,000 VND lemongrass mojitos are available during happy hour, 4 to

6pm Monday through Friday. Typhoon is accessible from downtown by the Riverside Boat Shuttle, 13b Ton Duc Thang opposite the Majestic Hotel.

Princess d’Annam Resort and Spa Opens

Princess d’Annam Resort and Spa has opened its doors on a stretch of the South China Sea 150 kilometers from HCM City. The all-villa resort has three classes of accommodation, ranging from the 75-squaremeter Mandarin villa to the 100-square-meter Princess and the 185-square-meter, two-story Empress. The grounds also include an 1,800-square metre spa; gardens with more than 200 varieties of flowers, shrubs and trees; and four pools. For more information, visit www.princessannam.com.

Budget Car Rental

Merges Onto Ho Chi Minh Golf Trail

Budget is now the official ground provider of the Ho Chi Minh Golf Trail. Trail-goers will have access to Budget’s fleet

Because when you’re sick, paying medical  bills is the last thing on your mind

DanCenter is opening its doors to yoga practitioners and dancers alike. Beginning in June, Michelle Lloyd will be offering Vinyasa yoga classes throughout the week. Classes in the Vinyasa tradition offer a series of flowing, conscious movements connected by breath, to help detoxify, strengthen, stretch and balance the body and mind. For schedule information visit www. michellelloyd.com or contact Michelle on 0909 64 8193 or email michelleglloyd@gmail.com.

of vehicles and drivers for the Southern Leg, which includes Ocean Dunes Golf Club in Phan Thiet. The service provides each client in Vietnam with a well-trained, English-speaking driver who also functions as a travelling concierge. For more information on the Ho Chi Minh Golf Trail, visit the website at www.hochiminhgolftrail.com.

Saigon Centre

Relaunches

After an extensive makeover of

its retail facilities, Saigon Centre officially relaunched on May 15 with an opening night gala of music and top Vietnamese runway models strutting their stuff. The high-end shopping centre has made fashion its focus, with remodeled shops dedicated to a wide selection of local and international brands. Boutiques and designers now under one roof include Miss Sixty, Axara, Kookai, Mango, Bebe, fcuk, Nine West, Valenciani and VOV by Vo Viet Chung.

The Family Medical Practice  has a cashless direct billing  agreement with all major  health insurance providers.  NO membership fee is  required for access to this  service.

* Insurance cover is always dependant on  your individual policy and direct billing may  not always be available. * Payment scheme will be required

Typhoon Opens at Riverside

Gia Dining Room Opens in HCM

City

Newly opened 50-seat Gia Dining Room is serving up breakfast, lunch and dinner in a contemporary and refined Oriental setting. The menu offers Asian and Continental cuisine ranging from braised pork meat and fish in clay pot to grilled sea bass fillet with tomatoes, olive oil and vinegar To celebrate its opening, the restaurant is offering daily three and four-course set lunch menus from 11.30 am to 2.30 pm through the end of June. This is Gia's fourth location, with sister restaurants in Danang, Nha Trang and Dalat. Gia Restaurant is located at 5a Nguyen Sieu, District 1. For reservations and more information, call 3827 9399 or email dining@ giadiningroom.com.

Dragon Hot Pot Opening

If you enjoy hot pot dining, pass by Dragon Hot Pot, recently opened at 122-124 Ho Tung Mao, District 1. Diners can enjoy Motsu Nabe and Japanese barbeque along with a cup of sake, wine or shoju in the Japanesethemed restaurant’s light cafe/ pub atmosphere. For more information, call 3915 1001.

New X Rock Climbing Gym

X Rock Climbing expanded its operations and opened two new walls at the Phan Dinh Phung Sports Complex in District 3 last month. The 16-metre-high difficulty wall includes 3.8 metres of overhang, features for top rope and lead climbing and a range of routes that will accommodate beginners and advanced climbers alike. The second wall is a 3.5 metre ascent for bouldering. The new climbing gym is located at 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu near Pasteur.

AIS Raises $1000 for Disadvantaged Kids

At its silent auction featuring students’ artwork last month, the Australian International School dedicated some floor space to items in support of arts for development nonprofit Armed with a Paintbrush. Altogether, the bids raised about $1,000, which will be put towards AWAP’s scholarship fund for disadvantaged and disabled children. In addition to paintings created by AWAP artists, AIS families and friends bid on items donated by Vino, SaigonSports Academy, DLS, BoatHouse and other local businesses.

New Digs and Tapas Happy Hour at Au Parc

After a brief lull in service, Au Parc reopened last month with a new balcony space overlooking the Cultural Park. The French eatery also launched a new tapas happy hour that runs Monday through Saturday from 5 to 8pm and features a new wine discount every two weeks. The tapas plates (139,000 VND) include grissini wrap with Bayonne bruschetta, falafel and more, and can be paired with a glass of house red or white for 40,000 VND. Vegetarian tapas plates are also available.

events

SaigonSports Academy Tournament

SaigonSports Academy will host its first family-oriented tournament at Saigon South International School on June 13 from 1 to 6pm. The tournament is open to adults and children, with 7v7 matches for age groups 7 to 10 and 11 to 14, and 11v11 matches for the 15 and up category. Food and drinks will be served throughout the event, which will be followed by an after party at the Tavern. A $10 registration applies per team to cover referee and pitch costs. Email Greg Vanderford at greg@ saigonsportsacademy.com.

Classical Music in June

The International Choir of HCM City is teaming up with the HBSO Choir and Orchestra and three international guest soloists from the United Kingdom and Australia to perform works by Haydn & Mozart. The pieces include Haydn's Te Deum in C and the Timpani Mass (Paukenmesse) and Mozart's Symphony No 40 in G Minor. The performances will take place on Friday, June 5 at 8pm, Saturday, June 6 at 8pm and Sunday, June 7 at 3pm. Tickets can be purchased at the Conservatory of Music, 112 Nguyen Du St, D1; Tourist Information Center, Le Loi and Nguyen Hue, D1 and Mekong Merchant, 23 Thao Dien, D2. For ticket prices and group bookings, email Amaury le Blan at amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn.

Saigon's First Annual Beerfest

From June 11 to 13 the Windsor Plaza Hotel will host the 1st Annual Beerfest. The event will feature regional beers, brews from around the world and microbrews from the Saigon Hobby Brewers, plus food, music and games. The festival takes place from 6pm til late each night. Admission is 400,000VND per day and includes free beer samples, all-you-can eat food, a commemorative Beerfest Saigon mug and entry into the daily lucky draw. Tickets are limited so purchase in advance. For more information, visit www. beerfestsaigon.com.

Vietnam Amateur Open

Golfers from Vietnam and all over the the region will participate in the Vietnam Amateur Open to be held in Dalat from June 11 to 14. The event is organised by the Vietnam Golf Association. Golf afficionados can catch the final round and prize presentation live on Vietnam television.

Who Will Be the Big Cheese?

Black Cat will host the second annual Big Cheese eating contest on July 5 at its Parklands location. Last year, about 150 people gathered to watch 11 competitors scarf down cheese-

Yoga Retreat at Nam Hai Resort

From July 3 to 5, Breathing Room Yoga will host a luxury yoga weekend with sunrise and sunset sessions overlooking the ocean at the Nam Hai Resort in Hoi An. Guests can enjoy award-winning healing cuisine, sumptuous pampering and discounted private villa accommodations for retreat participants. Please email Nicky at nicky@breathingroomyoga.com or call 090 987 1995 for more information.

burgers. This year's contestants can try to beat the record (22 minutes) by purchasing a ticket (250,000 VND) at Black Cat outlets. All contestants receive a voucher redeemable for a Big Cheese. For spectators there's a $14 barbecue buffet with $1 Budweisers and $2 Tabasco Bloody Mary’s from 4 to 10pm.

Travel Writing Class in An Phu

Learn how to write vivid and entertaining accounts of your travels at creative writing teacher Kate Orson's one-day class, Travel Journal Writing The class takes place at BoatHouse on Monday, June 8 or Saturday, June 13 from 9am-12pm. Everyone is welcome, but book in advance, as seating is limited. The cost is $20 and includes a complimentary drink. For more information call 090 448 2957 or email kate_orson@hotmail.com.

NIN Southeast Asia Dates

Groundbreaking industrial rock band Nine Inch Nails will play two shows in the region as part of their Wave Goodbye Tour, the band’s worldwide farewell to fans. NIN take the stage in Manila on August 5 at the Araneta Coliseum and August 10 in Singapore at Fort Canning Park. The band will also play

two shows in Japan (Osaka and Tokyo) and one in Taipei. Visit tour.nin.com for more information and online ticketing.

Award-winning

Aussie Chef Dan Szwarc at Sheraton

Dan Szwarc, classically-trained chef and winner of the Australian Chaine des Rotisseurs competition, will be at Signature restaurant at Level 23 for a five-day culinary showcase from June 9 to 13. Dinners are from 6 to 10 pm. And from June 10 to 13, guests can enjoy an enhanced dessert buffet at Saigon Cafe displaying creations from specialist cake designer Maria Lantelme. For further information contact 3827 2828.

Saigon Movement Summer Camps

From June 22 to August 7, Saigon Movement is running afternoon camps for kids ages 4 to 6 and 7 to 11. Through creative movement, art and action story classes, kids will increase body awareness, build confidence in self-expression and work in groups to solve challenges. The camps run Monday through Friday from 1 to 4.30pm and cost $120 per week, including healthy snacks and materials. For info, email Abbie Klein at saigonmovement@gmail.com.

www.vietnam-quilts.org

June at Caravelle

Reflections restaurant is serving a variety of dishes that incorporate lobsters found in the warm seas, paired with fine champagne. Lobster thermidor, grilled lobster and butter poached lobster comfit are some of the many dishes available as part of the set ($79 per person) and a la carte ($9-$48) menus. For dessert, the lobby lounge serves Valrhona chocolate creations from June 15 to 21 between 12 and 7pm each day ($7). For more information, call 3823 4999.

Summer Package at Novotel Nha Trang

Novotel Nha Trang's summer promotion, offers guests a threeday two-night stay, including two nights in a standard room with a private balcony and sea view, daily buffet breakfast and one buffet dinner at Le Square Restaurant, along with complimentary use of the pool, sauna and steam bath ($95++ per person, based on double occupancy). For further information contact 58 625 6900 or email info@novotel-nhatrang.com.

Asian Food Fair at Cafe Central

Throughout June, Cafe Central at the Windsor Plaza is drawing on signature dishes from Cambodia, Indonesia, Thailand, Singapore, Malaysia and Japan for its Asian Food Festival. The weekly dinner buffet includes dishes like Malaysian nasi goreng, Khmer coconut pork, fried

pomfret in mango sauce and gado-gado salad. Dinner runs from 6 to 10pm (269,000 VND weekdays, 299,000 weekends).

Contact Cafe Central at 3833 6688 ext. 2221 for reservations and information.

Fly Free from Phuket and Koh Samui

Through October 31, SALA Resorts & Spas is offering a complimentary one-way flight between its 5-star sister resorts in Phuket and Koh Samui for any guests staying at least 5 nights. Guests can split their time between the resorts any way they choose. Room rates start at $185/night at SALA Phuket and $200 at SALA Samui. Visit www.salaresorts. com for more information.

June at Park Hyatt

The Park Lounge has introduced a new high tea buffet that runs 2.30 to 5.30pm every Friday. The buffet includes a wide range of finger foods like cheese sandwiches and mini croissants in addition to desserts such as rustic berry tarts and strawberry cheesecake ($15++ per person). From June 12 to 28, Chef Michele Gulizzi and his culinary team prepare shellfish lunch and dinner menus that include Italian breaded baked clams, deep fried crab cake and lobster bisque ($12-32 per person). For more information, email phuong.le@hyatt.com.

Montgomerie Links Launches 4-for-3 Promotion

The Montgomerie Links golf course opened five new holes on May 23, inching the course closer to a full 18 holes. To mark the expansion, Montgomerie is offering a 4-for-3 promotion. A group of four golfers can play for the price of three, or pay for only three of four golfing days. Construction on the par 72 is expected to finish in August. Visit www.montgomerielinks. com for more details.

Peter Arnett with

How does it feel to return to Vietnam?

I’ve returned a lot of times. The first return was in 1976 with a Congressional delegation sent by Jimmy Carter to look into the issue of missing Americans. On one hand, it was clear that the Vietnamese were willing to communicate with an official American delegation. On the other hand, every shop in Saigon was closed. There was

no business. In the park there were hundreds of young people exercising every day shouting propaganda slogans. It was sort of intimidating. In 1985, I was invited back and spent three months traveling north to south to do a series of stories 10 years after the war. We were given a lot of cooperation, able to go to the old battle zones. It was clear the country was opening up.

For nearly five decades, Peter Arnett has been on the frontlines of history. He covered the American War from 1962 to 1975, and his coverage of the First Gulf War helped launch the era of 24-hour cable news. Thomas Maresca caught up with Arnett during his visit for the Caravelle Hotel’s 50th anniversary. Photos by Christian Berg.

In ’95, we returned with [producer] Robert Wiener. We traveled everywhere. We interviewed Vo Nguyen Giap.

We did live coverage on a stage in Lam Son Square for 10 days. It was just a more open society and Saigon was already blooming by that point. At one point I came back with 10 members of the last Marine group who flew off the embassy and we did Larry King Live from the top of

the American embassy. Since then, each time I come back, every year or so, there’s just more growth. And now, a very much more active media, much better educated journalists, more experienced, and this is a very positive sign.

How about from a personal standpoint? What types of memories does being in Vietnam trigger?

easy for me to cover other wars and to resist criticism. I figured

“Now, wait a minute you guys—I’ve been there. I know how policy can be led astray. I know how brutal war can be.”

How did that impact your later war coverage?

For example when I stayed in Baghdad in 1991, one of the reasons was that President George H. Bush said, “We will bomb Baghdad every day but we won’t inflict any civilian casualties—only military targets.” And I said, “The hell with it. I’m going to stay and see if he sticks to his word.”

happen. It was shocking. It was mind-blowing. It affected their thinking.

So when Bush went into Afghanistan and Iraq, most journalists tended to be vengeful. They figured, “To hell with it. We don’t want this to happen again.” That led to a mindset where they were less challenging of Bush’s policies. Also, wars are covered by young people. Reporters generally cover one war and retire. There were no Vietnam reporters covering Gulf War One, and there were no Gulf War One reporters covering Gulf War Two.

There are very positive memories. Even the journalists I knew very well who died—they died because they believed what they were doing was important. It was important. It was important for the public in America to learn about the war. It was important to tell the American government the truth of what was happening, which they weren’t getting from their senior military commanders and embassy people.

The tragedy to me is the civilians who died. The My Lai massacre. Going to villages with bodies of the burned victims of napalm. That weighs on my mind. The fact that young Americans died. At times I saw two or three hundred dead Americans on a battlefield. These young lives, getting into helicopters and going to war in what I increasingly knew was a wasted effort.

All those memories flood back, and they’re positive and negative, but they shaped the rest of my life. So it made it very

Within two days they’d bombed a baby milk plant. And then later they bombed an air raid shelter and killed 370 civilians. So I felt that my role in that war was to point out where policy was astray. It was a cautionary reporting exercise. Okay, most of the world believes that Saddam should be punished for going to Kuwait. But in punishing do you really want to brutalise the civilian population?

In Afghanistan the U.S. is going through that today. I read today that 90 civilians were killed in an airstrike in Afghanistan. Shocking. There has to be a better way of fighting that war.

There’s been a fair amount of criticism of the reporting in the current Gulf War, particularly in the buildup to it, that journalists weren’t asking the important questions. Why do you think that was?

I’ll tell you the big problem. First off, in the buildup to the war, the media was overwhelmed by the 9/11 tragedy. The Trade Towers were visible from every major news organisation’s headquarters in New York. All the journalists in New York City saw that

There’s no way we’ve yet found to prepare young journalists to cover a war. When Afghanistan’s finally over and there’s a war 10 years from now, the reporters who cover it will know nothing about covering war.

How can we address this?

What I would suggest is we have to be on guard against allowing government to impose too many controls. The media in Gulf War Two were all too willing to accept embed restrictions that prevented proper coverage. The mainstream media management should demand in the future to have more access.

That’s where it should happen.

But in terms of the field coverage of the reporters, I don’t criticise them to any great degree, because what do they know? They’re learning the hard way, and they’re dying while they’re learning. This is a tough field to be learning on the job.

As one of the few journalist who has covered multiple wars, what has kept you coming back?

Why are you drawn to war time and again?

Genetics, I think. [laughing]

My forefathers sailed in sailing

ships to New Zealand to chase whales. I think it’s a genetic search for adventure. And unlike U.S. or British reporters who could go home to a management position in their company, being a New Zealander who worked for American organisations, there was no interest in putting me in management. I was destined to be a reporter forever. And as far as I was concerned, if I was going to be a reporter, I wanted to cover the biggest story, and war is the biggest story. Whenever you cover these conflicts you’re reaching an international audience. It’s pretty exciting to know that there’s millions of people hanging on every word. The risks in proportion to the impact of your reporting is incredible—that’s one of the reasons I continued doing it.

You’re a journalism professor now in China at Shantou University. What’s the fundamental message you try to impart? Find out the truth. There’s a basic truth. People say “How can you be truthful? It’s subjective.” There’s a basic truth about what’s happening in the economy. There’s a basic truth in war. The Vietnam War was a wrong war in the wrong place at the wrong time. The Iraq War, we know the tragedy there. What is the truth of Afghanistan, Pakistan? The truth is we’re still trying to find out how to handle it and journalists should be on that story, and to determine where it’s going. What I tell the students in China is there’s a basic truth to every story they get to cover. Having established that, and realising not all the truth is going to make it into their media, they should spend their careers trying to put more of the truth into the reports.

street smart: ly chinh thang

Ly Chinh Thang connects two of HCM City’s busiest streets, but Thomas Maresca finds that, day or night, there’s plenty to warrant a trip down this diverse District 3 thoroughfare. Photos by Christian Berg.

Ly Chinh Thang Street, which runs between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Hai Ba Trung, is a microcosm of modern-day HCM City. There’s a little bit of everything in a relatively small stretch: old colonial mansions that have been converted into offices; gleaming office buildings and new hi-rises; clusters of little shopfronts and craftsmen. There are also a number of temples, a movie theatre, a

variety of food choices—and a few hidden surprises.

Berrygood

195C Ly Chinh Thang

Right across the street from Cinebox is yet another in the sudden proliferation of frozen yoghurt joints around HCM City. Berrygood is popular with the after-school crowd, and its bright, clean space is an inviting place to feed your fro-yo jones.

Yoghurt flavours include original, vanilla and chocolate, as well as the slightly more exotic green tea and taro. The toppings bar has strawberries, mango slices, kiwi chunks, raisins, gummi bears, chocolate chips, sprinkles and more. Everything is sold by weight—20,000 VND per 100 grams.

Cinebox

212 Ly Chinh Thang

and day of the week, ranging from 25,000 VND a ticket to 70,000 VND. For showtimes and listings, visit Cinebox’s website at cinebox212.com.vn or call 3935 0610.

Miu Rey Tokyo Style

195 D Ly Chinh Thang

This shop featuring designs from Japanese label Miu Rey sells a range of simple, light and summery dresses, skirts, tops and accessories. The styles cover a spectrum, from casual to slightly dressy, and are tailored from a variety of fabrics and clean prints at reasonable prices: a sleeveless dress goes for around 1,200,000 VND. This is Tokyo-style apparel, but not the cutting edge threads you might find on the city’s streets or in its clubs; think more along the lines of young, suburban moms.

Saeco Vietnam

204B Ly Chinh Thang

Cinebox is a smaller alternative to the Megastar and Galaxy chains; it shows the same firstrun local movies and imports but manages to retain a bit of a neighbourhood cinema charm (even though Heineken seems to have sponsored the entire theatre). There is a cosy Heineken beer lounge, and Red Hot Saigon hot dogs are served on the ground floor. Movie prices vary depending on time

Goldfish and Aquarium Shops

Java-heads take note: Saeco is the top Italian manufacturer of high-end coffee machines, and this is their showroom/sales centre in HCM City. Products start at a modest, well-designed stovetop espresso pot ($25) and work their way up to a top-of-the-line fully automated espresso and cappuccino maker with built-in grinder that sells for over $7,500. Saeco’s sales director Tina Hoa tells us they supply coffee makers and beans to 90 percent of the five-star hotels in Vietnam.

Near the corner of Nguyen Thong Shops selling fish and aquariums are huddled around Ly Chinh Thang and Nguyen Thong Streets. You won’t find exotic, tropical fish here but the more traditional favourites of this region—multiple varieties of the bulbous-headed flower horn fish (about 30,000 to 75,000 VND), giant koi (150,000 VND) and smaller goldfish-like mollys (as cheap as 5,000 VND). Housing for your fishy friends ranges from bowls for 100,000 VND to massive restaurant-style mounted tanks complete with kitschy lights, small villages, mountains and castles for 9,000,000 VND. Decorations have a distinctly Vietnamese flair: painted backdrops feature scenes from Halong Bay, and aquarium decorations include statues of pagodas, wise old men and little boys playing flutes and riding water buffalo.

Wedding Studios

Along Ly Chinh Thang

Ly Chinh Thang is home to several wedding dress/makeup/ photo studio shops. One of the largest and most inviting is Casta Bridal (250 B Ly Chinh Thang), with a very wide selection of gowns and bridesmaid dresses and a team of makeup artists and photographers on hand in a wide open and airy space. Another studio with some interesting and slightly

extravagant designs featuring long trains and lots of ruffles is Le Dung Studios (79 Ly Chinh Thang). They also have a location in Ontario, Canada.

Shop Clusters

There are a few other clusters of like-minded shops to be found along Ly Chinh Thang. Shoe stores are concentrated close to Cach Mang Thang Tam Street. Cheap sunglasses and eyeglass repair stalls are on Truong Dinh Street, right off of Ly Chinh Thang. Nail art and press-on nail shops are nearby, close to the Women’s Cultural Center. A decent selection of tailors are near Huynh Tinh Cua. And finally, for unbelievably

trashy evening wear there are a few scandalous stores pressed together near Hai Ba Trung.

Women’s Cultural House

192-194 Ly Chinh Thang

Most of the culture going on at the Women’s Cultural House seems to be of the beauty-school variety. The large complex offers courses in a variety of traditionally “feminine” pursuits—nails, massage, cooking, cosmetics and hairstyling. There are also social events such as karaoke nights, as well as presentations and seminars. Several cosmetics shops, including Red Earth, also operate on the grounds, and free haircuts are given to the public by beauty school trainees.

Mangoo

Berrygood

Candaransi Pagoda

Saeco Vietnam

Pappa Roti

Pappa Roti

136 Bis A Ly Chinh Thang Pappa Roti is a Malaysian chain that specialises in one thing and one thing only: the so-called coffee bun. This confectionary treat is well-known and loved in Malaysia and Singapore and is becoming increasingly popular around the rest of the region. It has a truly unique taste and texture—a thin crispy shell is created from melted and hardened coffee cream frosting, while the inside is warm and slightly chewy with a dollop of sweet butter. It’s really good and slightly addictive; luckily it only costs 10,000 VND per bun. Pappa Roti has a few locations around HCM City and Vietnam, mostly in the form of kiosks in Co-op Marts. Here, they’re sharing space with a fruitshake joint called Juice Station.

Mangoo

136 Ly Chinh Thang Mangoo. Wow. We’ll leave you to make your own jokes about the name of this narrow dessert parlor that specialises in gooey goods such as pudding, fondue and ice cream. We’ll just say

that some of the treats on offer are quite tasty, particularly the chocolate fondue: a large pot of melted, sweet chocolate with a plate of fruit chunks and marshmallows goes for 130,000 VND. The small size is 70,000 VND and could be shared by two.

Candaransi Pagoda

164/235 Tran Quoc Thao

Wander down many of the small hems running off of Ly Chinh Thang and you’ll end up alongside the snaky, stinky Nhieu Loc-Thi Nghe Canal. Here, on the rubble-strewn waterfront is a small collection of homes, plastic-stool cafes, sinh to shops, pho stands, tiny markets and tailors. It’s a potentially charming location, but there is heavy construction going on and the canal is just a sludgy mess (which still doesn’t discourage young canoodlers from parking on its banks).

There is also a Catholic church by the canal and a couple of temples, including one of the most unusual we’ve come across in HCM City: the Candaransi Pagoda. Look up at its ornately carved-stone stupas

and you’d swear you were in a miniature pagoda near Angkor Wat. Candaransi is a Khmer temple, home to 42 orangerobed monks of the Theravada type one sees all over in Thailand, Cambodia, Laos and Myanmar. Most of the monks are from Cambodia, speak English well and seem happy to chat with visitors to their attractive pagoda.

Pho Binh 7 Ly Chinh Thang

This is an otherwise unremarkable and slightly shabby pho shop, but the revolutionary plaque above the door gives away the special place Pho Binh holds in Vietnamese history.

During the American War, the upstairs of this small restaurant

served as the headquarters for undercover northern operatives in Saigon. Orders to begin the Tet Offensive were actually broadcast from Pho Binh's secret upstairs hideout. Today, they serve a good bowl of pho for a slightly-pricey 30,000 VND and are welcoming to curious guests. There are binders of information and photos about the history of the place, as well as a small gallery/shrine to the agents who operated out of Pho Binh. The original owner, Ngo Toai, died around six years ago, but his son still runs Pho Binh and is happy to share its history. Some of the old guard sometimes hang around the tables out front, so if you’ve got a bent to hear some war stories you might be in luck.

Meet Your Street: Ly Chinh Thang

Fittingly for a street that played a central wartime role as a headquarters for undercover agents, Ly Chinh Thang is named for a Communist war hero. Born in the north-central province of Ha Tinh, Thang was one of the earliest members of the Indochinese Communist Party. He led operations against the French around Saigon at the start of the war for independence, and was killed in battle in March 1946.

radar

Hanoi Through the Grapevine

www.hanoigrapevine.com

If you're heading to Hanoi, be sure to check hanoigrapevine.com for the latest happenings in the contemporary art and culture scene. Started by Brian Ring, a Canadian artist and long-time expat, Hanoi Grapevine is the place to get the skinny on concerts, gallery exhibits and movies around town. The listings don't discriminate—you’re just as likely to find info on a Vietnamese hip-hop concert as you are a Norwegian comedy. Access an extensive calendar of events and oodles of venue listings.

A section of Hanoi Grapevine is geared towards artists and musicians, including links to local artists' websites and info on competitions, residency programmes and symposiums. There's also opinion by Kiem Van Tìm, an "interested, impartial and informed observer and connoisseur of the Hanoi art scene..."

Hanoi Grapevine also supports the city’s tempography scene and currently has a call out for the filmed visual impressions of up to 30 seconds that constitute the genre. Just find a camera, make a quick video, submit and voila! You’re part of the scene too.

Ginny Becker

www.melzoo.com

Google and Yahoo might have some competition now that newcomer MelZoo.com has thrown down the gauntlet.

The Beta search engine debuted in January and is getting nods for its unique split-screen search page. By hovering the cursor over search results on the left panel, users can preview real-time snapshots of web pages. The visual-based concept offers surfers a convenient and time-saving search experience. It takes a little getting used to, but it’s easy to warm to MelZoo’s high-speed previews. On the downside, MelZoo doesn’t support any advanced search options and the preview isn’t interactive, so if you click into it, the search results disappear.

Esther de la Cruz

Cooking with Twitter

twitter.com/cookbook

From her home in Belfast, Ireland, creative writing master’s student Maureen Evans sends something remarkable out into the world: tweets you can actually use in everyday life.

Like a fine reduction, Evans distils whole recipes from her kitchen library into twitter’s pithy 140-character format (often managing to do so in fewer characters). At first glance, the tweets appear to be inscribed in some fanciful language, but with a bit of practice and the help of a glossary, following Evans’ growing archive of recipes is a snap.

From soups, salads and salsas to peanut butter stew and parsnip soufflé, Evans serves up enough ideas to fill a cookbook of her own, albeit a really, really tiny one.

Tom DiChristopher

Pho Binh

young minds, big hearts

Students from the International School of Ho Chi Minh City are finding creative ways to make a difference and contribute to the community through a model volunteer programme that challenges them to reach out. By esther de la Cruz.

Hunger isn’t normally an appealing experience to teenagers, so when 18-year-old Patrick Farelly asked his fellow students how they felt about starving themselves to raise money for hungry orphans, the response surprised everyone.

“I put up the [signup] list and within the first day, it was full,” says Farelly.

Three years ago, Nguyen Quach set up a group that still makes regular visits to orphans in Long Thanh Province. Remembering how it began, Nguyen says, “My friends and I just talked to each other, and decided ‘Let’s do it.’”

Both students go to the International School of Ho Chi Minh City, where students are asked to join service activities as part of the International Baccalaureate diploma’s Creativity, Action and Service (CAS) programme.

The school's CAS coordinator Fabien Moussay calls it “experiential learning.”

“We’re including the things they learn in class but making them happen also in real life, and we’re trying to make a difference in the local community,” explains Moussay.

And just like larger organisations, each student group is responsible for its own advertising and fund-raising and for keeping lines of communication open among fellow students.

“Our students have pretty much everything,” Moussay explains, “so when we put them in connection with children who have nothing, they then realise that they are really lucky and also that they need to help and support those who are not as lucky.”

Personal connections are what the CAS programme

aims for, and Moussay says he's always trying to present the programmes to students and parents in ways that will interest and motivate them to be involved. "Some parents don’t necessarily understand that the time (their child) spends on a project is as important as the time they spend completing math homework."

One student who did not wait to be prodded was Nguyen Quach. Her club helps out at the Thien Binh Orphange in Long Thanh province. The students shower, teach, feed and play with the children. "A lot of people go to the orphanages in town; we wanted to visit rural kids,” Nguyen says. Nguyen doesn't mind that students initially join her club to fulfill requirements. "They come in for CAS the first time, but I can see at the end they really love the children," she says.

And while some students seem naturally inclined to charity work, others fall into it unexpectedly. Abeer Mehra was

only supposed to teach for one day to replace a friend, but the 17-year-old has now been join ing Students Teaching Students for four months.

Once a week the studentteachers visit the Huyen Si School in District 1 for an hour and a half of giving back through verb tenses and vo cabulary. The students are from very poor families and can’t go to public school because they lack the correct papers. Mehra says he’s realised not only orphans and the physically disabled are in need.

"It could also be the fact that they are economically disabled compared to us," he says, "and this [teaching] is an opportunity to help them.”

For Patrick Farelly, leader of the Global Issues Network, star vation was something he and his fellow students knew only in concept. “We’ve never really been hungry, we’re pretty well off. We thought, ‘Let’s starve ourselves so other people can have food.’”

At what point did we lose our connection to food? When did we start thinking of truly great cuisine as something best left in the hands of professionals? When did we forget that virtually all great culinary traditions are descended from the family table?

In short, when did we become afraid of food?

t he answer is irrelevant. What’s important is that it’s never too late to roll up your sleeves, get your hands dirty, learn the exquisite beauty that a cleaver can yield. It’s never too late to take back your kitchen and start cooking like you mean it.

Lead photography: Guy Gonyea

Art direction: Jennifer Watson

Thomas Maresca turns to the pros to transform at- home food into restaurant-quality cuisine.

There’s a big difference between the restaurant kitchen and the home kitchen. few of us have the time, resources or skills to replicate the meals we’re served when dining out. However, this doesn’t mean we’re necessarily stuck with takeaway or bland, uninspired at-home food. asiaLIfe set out to find tricks and tips from some of Hcm city’s french, Italian and fusion chefs that can help spice things up—basic concepts and standard items that can turn your simple meals into something special. two messages came through over and over during our conversations with the pros. the first is not to be afraid to use your refrigerator and freezer. good freezerwork will allow you to frontload your cooking efforts. making basic stocks and sauces in large batches ahead of time can make your cooking faster, easier and tastier. the second message is to use the best and freshest ingredients you can. you’re simply not going to find many dried herbs, canned broth or pre-packaged foods in professional kitchens. By combining fresh ingredients with a repertoire of simple bases and learning a few basic skills, your home-cooked food can attain culinary heights you might have thought were only reserved for the professionals.

Chef Panel

Unless you’re already using stock regularly, this is perhaps the most basic difference between what a chef is doing in his or her kitchen, and what you’re doing in yours. Beyond the early stages of food preparation, chefs almost never use water in cooking; instead, vegetable, chicken and beef stock pop up time and again (and not the hyper-salty stuff you can buy in a can or box at the supermarket). stocks are the fundamentals of soups and sauces and are used at some point in the cooking process in most dishes (at least in traditional Western cooking). making your own stock is not difficult—it just takes time, but not a great deal of effort. If you make large batches at once, you can freeze it in plastic containers or ice cube trays and have it on hand whenever you need it.

a basic vegetable stock doesn’t need more than what tony fox, chef at good eats and Qing, calls the “Holy trinity” of vegetables: carrots, celery and onion, (also known in french cooking as mirepoix). these aromatic vegetables boiled in water for 30 minutes to an hour will create something much more useful and flavorful then plain water. you can also throw in some salt, soy sauce, garlic, parsley, potatoes or vegetable scraps for flavour. any vegetable scraps can be frozen and used for stock. roasting the vegetables beforehand also adds flavour. or next time you make chicken, do what the chefs do and buy a whole bird instead of just a breast or leg pieces. andreas ertle of cepage says this is one of the biggest differences between restaurant and home cooking. use the bones and whatever meat you don’t cook (such as necks, backs, and wings) for stock. add some vegetables and boil, then simmer for a few hours, skim off the fat and preserve. you can make beef stock, veal stock, fish stock (from heads and the skeleton) and more if you’re ambitious. But vegetable and chicken are the two most common stocks. Beyond their central importance to so many recipes, they’re helpful almost everywhere—cook your rice with chicken stock instead of water like fox does at good eats, and you will taste the difference.

andreas Ertle Cepage

Norbert Ehrbar Buddha Bar

asif Mehrudeen Grand Hyatt

erwann Serene La Camargue

geoffrey Deetz Typhoon & Black Cat

marco Cortesi La Hostaria

With thanks also to thanh Charles Kim Hai Trading

Simple Sauces Claypot Creations

If you’ve got stock, you can make all sorts of basic sauces, which can then be modified to make an almost infinite variety. the french tradition has a number of “mother sauces” that are the source of many of their dishes, basics such as white Bechamel and brown espagnole. there are also tomato and butter sauces, and emulsified ones such as Hollandaise. (La Guide Culinaire by auguste escoffier is over 100 years old but is still the standard reference in professional kitchens). most chefs will create multiple dishes on their menus from simple variations of sauce bases. erwann serene of La camargue, for instance, has a white wine sauce and a saffron sauce on the menu which are derived from exactly the same base of garlic and onions, white wine, chicken stock and cream.

If you’ve really got the time and want to make your food leap to the next level, you can even make the wonderful, rich, thick brown demi-glace. this generally involves roasting beef bones for hours and simmering with vegetables for a brown stock, which is then mixed with an espagnole and reduced, reduced, reduced. serene cooks his for two days and three nights. that may be a bit much for the home chef, but it can be done in a shorter time. Why go through the trouble? as serene says, “If you take the time, you’ll usually get something good.” on the lighter end of the spectrum, you’re by no means a prisoner to bottled salad oils or dressings. a fresh, basic vinaigrette, as tony fox points out, is simply three parts olive oil to one part vinegar—balsamic, red wine, whatever your tastebuds desire. add some fresh herbs and you have something infinitely better than you’ll get in a bottle.

It doesn’t always take hours and hours of advance work to make a fresh, interesting meal.

geoffrey deetz of Black cat and the newly opened typhoon and m iami has a great technique for making fast, simple and delicious onedish meals at home. While ovens are still relatively scarce in Vietnamese homes, cheap clay pots for cooking are abundant and can break up the stovetop stir-fry routine.

first, deetz recommends preparing some composed butters (also known as compound butters) in advance. composed butter is simply some room temperature butter mixed with a variety of spices and herbs and finely chopped vegetables. onion, garlic, cumin and pepper can be used, for example. shallots and fresh parsley provide another variation. Paprika, tarragon, chilli, curry; there are any number of ingredient combinations you can use. simply mix the butter with your ingredients and mold it into a log on a sheet of plastic food wrap. you can use some immediately and roll up the rest to freeze. take your compound butter, combine some protein— shrimp, tofu, chunks of beef or chicken—and some vegetables and pile them together in the clay pot.

Place on the stovetop for about seven minutes, and voila—you’ll have a surprisingly flavourful meal in less time than it takes to open a can of soup or a frozen dinner. It’s almost impossible to overcook or botch this dish. and if you make a variety of butters in advance and freeze them, you always have a choice of meals at hand. (and yes, most chefs still use a lot of butter in their cooking.)

Barbecue Basics Steak Test

one by one, touch the fingers of your left hand to your thumb, as if to measure a pinch of salt, while pressing the base of the thumb with a finger of your right hand. the give or firmness indicates doneness.

thumb / index finger Medium: thumb / middle finger Medium well: thumb / third finger Well done: thumb / little finger

Rare: 60 degrees c - centre of the steak is very red and cool

Medium rare: 65 degrees c - centre of the steak is red and warm

Medium: 71 degrees c - centre of the steak is pink and hot

Medium well: 74 degrees c - centre of the steak is pinkish and hot

Well done: 77 + degrees c - steak is thoroughly cooked

A charcoal grill opens up a world of possibilities for the backyard chef, and a few tips can help bring the most out of your cooking. Norbert ehrbar, chef at Buddha Bar, recommends a rounded grill with a cover, which will give the most flexibility in the sorts of cooking you can do on the grill. from here, you can make your basics like steak, as well as slow-cook items like chicken.

When making steak, you want the grill to be hot to seal the pores on the meat as quickly as possible and to keep in the juices. you can check doneness with a thermometer (pushed in from the side, not the top) or with the touch test (see illustration).

ehrbar warns not to season with salt beforehand, as this will dry out the meat when cooking. to spruce things up, you can add a natural smoky wood flavour—get some wood chips (not varnished or painted), wrap them in aluminium foil, poke some holes and throw the packet right in among the charcoal. you can also use a drip pan to catch the greasy drippings and use the liquid for a sauce. If you want to be healthier and trim the fat from your meat, ehrbar suggests doing so after grilling. Without the fat, your meat won't turn out as flavourful. “fat is flavour,” says ehrbar. also, let steak “rest” at least a few minutes before serving—you don’t want to take it straight from the grill to the table. you can keep steaks warm in the oven, if you have one. for seafood barbecue, fatty fishes such as salmon or mackerel are less likely to stick on the grill. fish can also be wrapped in aluminium foil and cooked. chicken is best cooked by moving the charcoal briquettes to one half of the grill and leaving the chicken on the other half, cover on, to cook more slowly and thoroughly. Be sure to marinate the chicken under the skin, or else the marinade won't actually flavour the poultry.

More About Meat

How tender and juicy a steak is has a lot to do with how much intramuscular fat it has; these are the white streaks known as marbling. Beef is given a marbling score of up to 12—the higher the number, the more marbling there is. a score of 12 is exceedingly rare and only found in the most expensive cuts of kobe or Wagyu beef. Here in Hcm city, kim Hai trading company sells imported australian Wagyu tenderloin with a marbling score of 5 to 6 for 1.3 million VNd per kilo. this is top end beef, but you really don’t need to go to those lengths for a great steak. u s.-certified angus or australian grain-fed are also incredibly tender. a good striploin, rib-eye or t-bone are the best cuts for steaks. (an australian grain-fed striploin goes for 265,000 VNd per kilo at kim Hai.) for stews, pies and dishes made from minced meat, thanh charles of kim Hai recommends using some of the lesser known and less expensive cuts of beef such as oyster blade. for burgers, ground beef with 20 percent fat is the ideal. While imported beef is far superior to the tough, local beef that comes from the large-humped Brahman cattle, local pork and chicken are widely considered quite good.

testINg By tHermometer

Rare:

Pasta Principles

Cooking pasta is simple, but doing it right can be deceptively difficult. chef marco cortesi of La Hostaria insists that the most important thing about pasta is that it must be al dente—overcooked pasta is practically a criminal offense in Italy.

Proper al dente pasta is fully cooked but still firm. to do it right every time takes a certain amount of practise and experience, as cooking times vary between types of pasta and on whether it is fresh or dried. the ratio is 10 litres of water to one kilo of pasta (with salt added to taste). you can taste-test the pasta as it’s cooking to determine whether or not it should be removed from heat; keep in mind that it continues to cook even after you take it off the flame.

Homemade pasta is likewise simple to make but can be hard to do well. the dough is just flour, eggs, salt and water. It can be flattened by hand, the old-fashioned, time-consuming way, or with a pasta machine, and then cut into the desired sizes for tagliatelle, pappardelle, lasagna, etc. Variations abound. cortesi adds the juice squeezed from boiled spinach to make a green spinach pasta, and squid ink that he gets from the local market to make his black tagliatelle nere too much sauce on your pasta is the sure sign of an amateur. cortesi says that there should be almost no sauce left after the dish has been eaten. after making pasta, he generally cooks the sauce in the pan with his pasta for a minute (with some oil and vegetable stock) before serving, using only enough to coat and mingle with the pasta. drenching your pasta won't make it any better.

Being from m ilan, cortesi’s specialty is risotto, a labour-intensive dish that follows a very strict process. the arborio rice is first lightly toasted in the pan with olive oil. White wine is added and evaporated, then hot stock in small amounts while the rice is stirred constantly for about 20 minutes. Butter and cheese are mixed in at the end. It should be rich and creamy but not mushy, and still a bit al dente. this is another dish that can take on many varieties—the true m ilano version, however, uses saffron and the marrow from osso bucco bones.

Get Inspired Presentation

How carefully do you consider presentation when cooking at home? It’s incredibly easy to elevate your dish to a work of culinary visual art—or at least something presentable. the easiest way to top off a dish is with fresh, cold herbs such as sprigs of thyme or parsley, and sprinkles of something mild, like finely chopped basil. they add both flavour and visual flair to a dish.

another tried and true presentation item in the kitchen, as anthony Bourdain writes in his book Kitchen Confidential is the simple plastic squeeze bottle. this is what most chefs use to drizzle sauce artfully over their dishes. you can also drag lines in a darker, thick sauce (such as demi-glace) that’s paired with a lighter sauce, like an emulsified butter, with a simple toothpick if you want to get fancy.

Vertical “stacking” is another technique that requires very little knowhow—a metal or plastic ring (such as a cut piece of PVc tubing) can be used to make artful presentations—a layer of mashed potatoes, then a layer of vegetables, topped with chicken. a drizzle of sauce, some fresh herbs sticking out and you’ve got something artsy for you dinner party. o f course, good chefs take things to another artistic plane, but on a basic level it’s easy to make your food look better. as Bourdain writes, it takes “zero talent to garnish food.”

Most chefs still turn to reference sources, such as the old standard escoffier, or the Larousse Gastronomique these make interesting if not always practical reading for the home cook. chefs also get inspiration everywhere from food magazines to meals they’re served in restaurants and homes, perhaps taking just one technique or flavour and adding it to their own repertoire to create something new. the Park Hyatt hotel’s executive chef asif mehrudeen traveled the mediterranean for a year, for instance, learning the basics from home kitchens.

one thing that all chefs seem to share in common is a curiosity about food and an ability to improvise and experiment. the more you cook and learn the basics, the more you’ll also be able to work without a script and have what tony fox calls “happy accidents” in the kitchen— meals thrown together with whatever ingredients you have on hand that turn out great.

try making some stocks and sauces on a sunday, and use them the rest of the week and the month in different varieties with fresh ingredients. Whether entertaining or just cooking for yourself or your family, good food is not that far away.

The Fresher, the Better

Any chef will tell you that you can’t make good food unless you start with good ingredients. In most cases freshness is the key (although there is good frozen produce available—La camargue’s serene for example, says he imports frozen peas from france because they are better quality than locally grown).

the Hyatt’s asif mehrudeen is a major advocate of provincial-style, market-oriented cooking—daily visits to the market that determine which ingredients you base that day’s menu around. this is perhaps a luxury few of us can afford, but a flexible approach and familiarity with the market is a helpful thing to keep in mind. take eggs, for instance. the number one key to delicious eggs is simply freshness, says tony fox. He demands that an egg be cooked from each delivery before he accepts the shipment. a fresh egg will stay together in a circle when you crack it into a pan, instead of running to the sides. When poaching, the white should surround the yolk. fresh herbs also make a tremendous difference in flavouring your dishes. one helpful idea for home cooks is to grow your own plants, such as basil and tarragon—then you can simply take what you need from the plant, instead of buying a bunch and letting the parts you don’t use go to waste.

Tools of the Trade

When it comes to kitchen implements, less can be more. You won’t find faddish kitchen gizmos in any self-respecting chef’s kitchen. most cutting needs can be accomplished with a classic chef’s knife. the Hyatt's asif mehrudeen says that’s almost all he uses, and recommends a blade of 30cm long. some alternatives, like paring and boning knives will also come in handy; few chefs report using any more than these. andreas ertle of cepage says he learned to minimise his knives when he went to work in a kitchen in Japan, going from about 15 knives to just three. many chinese chefs use only a single cleaver. all chefs keep their knives sharpened and many service the blades themselves daily with a grindstone, although there are also roaming knife sharpeners to be found on the street in Vietnam. as tony fox points out, the sharper the knife, the fewer the cuts you’ll give yourself, as your blade won’t be catching and slipping on the food. the basic rule of thumb with cookware such as saucepans is to go for heavy and thick-bottomed. especially cooking over gas flames, scorching and sticking is a major problem with flimsy pots. another helpful utensil that chefs such as ertle and serene mention using is a hand blender, perfect for making sauces, soups and dressings. It can be used to whip cream, or even make fancy haute cuisine items such as flavoured foams. on the opposite end, mehrudeen also says he enjoys using a mortar and pestle for tasks like crushing herbs, which he says beats a blender for bringing out the flavours.

guy goNyea

no oven required

Whether your kitchen is ill-equipped or the thought of firing up the oven in the steamy saigon heat is unthinkable, there’s still hope for turning out appetising desserts. AsiaLIFE asked chef and restaurateur edward de carle for some sweet inspiration. though he’s best known in district 7 for serving up burgers and barbecue at Black cat Bike city, edward is also a classically trained patisserie chef. We spoke to him to find out how ovenless expats can create some simple but delectable desserts using only a gas-fired burner and a refrigerator. Photos by Fred Wissink

Orange Sorbet

the recipe below is for orange sorbet, but this method can be used with any citrus fruit or fruit mixture. my favourite is a blend of lemon lime and passion fruit. for passion fruit, be sure to leave some of the seeds in the mix to give the sorbet texture. for oranges, be sure they're american oranges (not Vietnamese). add more or less sugar depending how sweet you like the sorbet. I prefer to use half the quantity of sugar, but experiment away!

Ingredients:

Serves 1 large portion or 2 medium portions

Directions:

Dark Chocolate-Dipped Poached Pears for this simple dessert, american pears are preferable. However, if you’re having trouble finding them, use eight of the smaller chinese pears. Leave the stalks attached—it makes dipping the pears in chocolate much easier!

Ingredients: Serves 4 people

Directions:

300ml fresh orange juice

(or 2 oranges)

100g caster sugar

Halve the oranges and squeeze. Preserve the rinds in cling film and refrigerate.

Place ingredients into a pan and boil until the sugar is completely dissolved. Let cool and sift any seeds. use the back of a spoon to push the remaining orange pulp through the sieve into the sauce to add more texture. Be sure to retain the pulp for texture and colour. Place in a tightly sealed container and freeze. use a fork or knife to break up any ice crystals. repeat every hour for two to three hours. alternatively, leave the mix in the freezer until completely frozen, place into an ice bag and pulverise using a rolling pin or ice hammer (It’s a great way to relieve stress). serve the sorbet in the orange skins.

4 large pears

1 bottle red wine, 750ml

300g caster sugar

1 cinnamon stick

200g dark cooking chocolate mint for decoration

Wash pears and place into a pot. Pour in wine, making sure it covers most of the pears.

remove pears from the pot. add the sugar and cinnamon stick. gradually heat the wine until the sugar dissolves. cover and reduce heat to low.

Peel the pears, making sure the stalks are attached. add to wine. cover and simmer for two hours, checking occasionally. turn off heat and allow pears to cool. remove from the wine and slice a small piece from the bottom so that the pears stand upright. Place the chocolate into a small inox bowl which will then be placed into a saucepan of boiling water. make sure that no water gets into the chocolate. once the chocolate melts, place each pear into the chocolate sauce. spoon the chocolate over the pear until covered. Place on a greased piece of foil and refrigerate. reduce the red wine sauce until half of the original quantity remains. Place the pears on a plate and drizzle the wine sauce. serve with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and decorate with mint.

Crepes Flambe

this is an oldie but a goodie. crepes can be served with any sauce you’d like: chocolate sauce, jam, even maple syrup. I prefer to sprinkle a tablespoon of sugar on an open crepe, squeeze a quarter of a lemon over it, roll and enjoy. you don’t have to flambe the crepes, but it does make for good dinner party entertainment. as with the sorbet, be sure to use american oranges. and don’t substitute limes for lemons.

Crepe Ingredients: Makes 20 crepes

226g plain flour

1 tablespoon (15g) caster sugar 414g milk

3 eggs

1 ½ tablespoons (22g) melted butter

½ teaspoon (2 ½ g) salt

Ingredients for flambe: 200ml orange juice (200g or 1 ½ american oranges) juice of half a lemon 5g butter

2 crepes, folded in half and then halved again

1/2 shot or 30ml cointreau or brandy mint for decoration

Preparing the crepes: sift the flour, sugar and salt into a bowl.

In a separate bowl, mix the milk, eggs and butter. slowly add to the flour mix, constantly stirring the flour to avoid lumps. continue stirring until the batter is smooth. Let stand for at least two hours.

Cooking the crepes:

grease a pan lightly with butter and place over low heat.

remove from heat and add two tablespoons of batter to the pan. While pouring, rotate the pan to ensure the bottom is covered with batter.

cook each side on low heat for approximately one minute. Wrap crepes in foil to keep warm.

Flambe Directions:

add the orange and lemon juice to a saute pan, bring to a simmer and add butter.

reduce the sauce to approximately ¾ quantity (about two minutes) and add the crepes.

remove from heat and add cointreau or brandy.

return to heat and set alight, allowing the flames to die down. drizzle with sauce and serve with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. decorate with mint.

Bailey’s Chocolate Mousse mousse is a common no-oven dessert, but this version was inspired by a customer who asked me to top his mousse with a shot of Bailey’s. a little cream swimming in the liquor adds to the presentation—I use a cream called toppin. If you’re serving the mousse on a plate, doll out one or two tablespoons with a half shot of Bailey’s in a shot glass and cream in another. Leave it to your guests to decide whether they'd like to add the liquor.

Ingredients: Serves 12

250g dark cooking chocolate

50g butter

200ml cream (200g)

20g sugar

4 egg whites

2 egg yolks

Directions:

Place the chocolate and butter into an inox bowl and place the bowl in a pan of boiling water, making sure that no water gets into the chocolate. Leave to melt, stirring occasionally to mix the butter with the chocolate.

Beat the egg whites and sugar in a bowl (preferably with an electric beater) until the white has meringued.

If using an electric beater, add cream once the white has meringued. If using a hand beater, beat the cream separately until thick (it should not fall off the spatula without being shaken).

fold the egg white mix into the cream, taking care not to stir— stirring will release the trapped air.

once the chocolate melts, remove bowl from the heat. m ix egg yolks into the chocolate.

gradually fold the chocolate into the egg-cream mix, once again, taking care not to stir. the mix should be smooth with a consistent colour throughout.

Por tion into 12 small cocktail glasses leaving about 2-3 cm at the top. cover glasses with cling film and refrigerate. you can also portion, cover and refrigerate for later use.

serve the glasses with ½ shot of Baileys floating on top of the mousse and some double cream on top of the Baileys.

thevegetarian table

Stop feeding your vegetarian guests side salads and buttered vegetables at dinner parties. Instead, trade the meaty main for something equally savoury. AsiaLIFE provides a vegetarian primer.

While to some, vegetarian food still conjures up images of earnest and flavourless dishes of lentils and bulgur wheat, meatless dishes don’t have to be dull or depressing. We often default to meat-based entrees, but many vegetarian meals can be just as satisfying as their meaty counterparts. Next time you’re having a dinner party, give your vegetarian guests something they can really sink their teeth into. you might be surprised how few carnivores don’t even miss the meat.

tofu

tofu’s versatility is one of the reasons it gets a bad rap; it can be prepared in so many ways that it’s often used as a stand-in for meat. But while the fake versions are not likely to make you forget real sausage, chicken or shrimp, tofu absorbs flavour remarkably well and adds protein to dishes that already supply plenty of taste on their own. crumbled tofu is a great addition to chilli, for instance. and firm tofu is perfect for a spicy stirfry or as a stand-in for chicken or pork in your favourite curries.

Pulses / Legumes

Lentils, peas and beans can be used in countless ways to add taste and protein to your meals. a spicy vegetarian chilli is great for a dinner party and can be made with black beans, kidney beans or both. add chickpeas (garbanzo beans) to a hefty salad, white beans to pasta, or make lentil, split pea or black bean soup. Lentils and chickpeas are also essentials in Indian cooking; try making your own daal or chana masala Pulses and legumes are not just for vegetarians; everyone should add more of these items to their diet, as they’re high in fibre and have been shown to cut cholesterol.

Portobello mushroom

these mushrooms have a “meaty” texture and supply that umami kick that we often get from meat (umami is the savoury taste sensation). simple grilled portobellos with olive oil and balsamic vinegar are great on their own and can also be used in lots of ways—stuffed (with spinach and cheese, for example), or as a burger (try it with bleu cheese). mushrooms can also be roasted, used in sandwiches and sauces and incorporated into pasta dishes.

grains

grains are essential parts of most diets around the world, whether in the form of bread, pasta or rice.

In Vietnam, as with many of its neighbours, polished white rice is the staple food. But whole grains provide far more taste and nutrition; brown rice (gao lut in Vietnamese) is more filling than white rice and has a nutty flavour on its own. It makes a great accompaniment to beans or vegetarian chilli.

couscous and quinoa are also good alternatives to ordinary rice—quinoa in particular is lauded for its nutritional profile, as it’s high in protein and calcium. you can even make it the centrepiece of a dish—roasted quinoa with cheese, potatoes and red bell peppers, for example.

Pasta with mushroom sauce, vegetarian risotto with zucchini, asparagus, or peppers, polenta...the list of hearty, grain-based dishes is endless.

Nuts

Nuts are another good source of protein and minerals and can be used as an accompaniment or as the base for a satisfying main. Walnuts are considered the healthiest of all, and are a great source of omega-3 fatty acids. Plus, they add flavour and richness to salads (try an apple, gorgonzola and walnut salad). they’re great when paired with creamy pasta sauces, as well. you can also make nut burgers—nuts are usually mashed or blended with tahini/chickpeas and other ingredients. the result is a patty that's far more savoury than the tofu-based fake meats.

the aubergine is one of the greatest basics in the vegetarian pantry, a deeply satisfying “vegetable” that, like the tomato, is actually a fruit. It’s rich, flavourful and filling, and can be used in a variety of ways. It’s often used in Italian cooking; a good eggplant parmesan with linguini is a fantastic entree, and eggplant makes a perfect ingredient in vegetarian lasagna. or how about the classic french ratatouille—a stewed dish of tomatoes, onions, zucchini, eggplant and garlic? eggplant also works well charred or grilled; its naturally smoky flavour comes to the fore.

aubergine (eggplant)

a gathering of herbs

aromatic and flavourful, fresh herbs add flair to most any meal. AsiaLIFE sought out a mix of popular favourites and lesser-known local herbs sure to give your meals some pizzaz. Photos by Fred Wissink special thanks to Hanh Nguyen edbrooke and Le Van Hai chau for their assistance.

Limnophila

(ngo om)

grown in southeast asia, limnophila can be cultivated either on dry land or flooded rice fields. originally named rice paddy herb, its flavour is similar to that of a lemon.

dill (thi la

this herb's fern-like leaves and caraway taste make it easy to identify. cultivated in many countries including asia and the mediterranean, dill is used in many Vietnamese fish recipes.

Perilla (tia to k nown as purple mint, Japanese basil or wild coleus, this strong and fragrant green-andpurple coloured herb is said to taste similar to both mint and fennel. Indigenous to east and India, perilla is another herb whose name depends on its country of origin.

Vietnamese celery (apium graveolens although better known as a vegetable, celery is indeed part of the parsley family. this slightly bitter and crunchy herb/veggie tastes similar to celery found in the West, but because it looks different, it's often an overlooked herb.

Vietnamese coriander is indigenous to southwestern asia and North africa and known by many names based on the country where it is cultivated.

ancient ink

ancient ink

Thai bamboo tattooing stretches back to the country's Khmer period, but it's still alive today. Hasan John Wafi heads to Ko Chang to go under the bamboo shoot and learn about the ancient tradition. Portrait by Fred Wissink. Process photos by Rachel Niklas.

A small group of young Thai men are happily chatting, smoking and enjoying a beer in the small house-cum-tattoo shop. A chilled reggae beat plays in the background, mingling with their laughter. Occasionally their voices die down as they gaze more intently at the works in progress.

There are three of us lying on thin mattresses on the floor, each flanked by a tattoo artist. Sittichai “One” Wanakhun, the home/shop owner, is concentrating on his latest piece. His right hand taps back and forth rhythmically as his left guides the needle-pronged bamboo into my skin. His bare foot is on my chest, pulling the skin taut.

Hanging from his neck is a chunky necklace adorned with five Buddhist charms, each enclosed in a transparent case. One

of them, a small ancient-looking ivory elephant head, nods with approval with every tap.

“Don’t worry,” One says, “only about 30 minutes to go.”

I had travelled to Ko Chang, Thailand to get a tattoo to cover up a burn scar. Living in Southeast Asia with an interest in tattoo culture, I’d come across the Thai bamboo tattoo. I already had a couple of tattoos and was keen to try out something different.

In bamboo tattooing, the end of a bamboo shoot is flattened and shaped into a platform, to which five micro-thin needles are firmly bound. The tattoo artist uses one hand to guide the needles as the other acts as the machine, rapidly tapping the needles so they penetrate the skin. Jasmine oil is applied throughout the process to prevent the ink from seeping into the skin until the artist taps it into the intended location. What attracted me to getting a bamboo tattoo is the elegant simplicity of the process; this is how tattoos were done for thousands of years. Sitting in One’s shop, it was almost like I had been transported back in time, albeit to a past set to a Bob Marley soundtrack.

Warrior Ghosts

Thailand’s history of bamboo tattooing stretches back some 3,000 years to the Khmer period. This ancient tradition, known as yantra integrated elements of Buddhism and Hinduism over the years. Bamboo tattooing isn’t as popular as it was in the past—nearly all Buddhist men were once tattooed—but spiritual tattoos are certainly not uncommon today in Thailand.

Researching on the Internet, I discovered that a bamboo tattoo artist named Sittichai “One” Wanakhun and his partner Olivia Huls ran a thriving, modern-day bamboo tattoo business on Thailand’s second largest island, Koh Chang. On an upcoming trip to Thailand, I decided to check it out.

After a pleasant five-hour bus and ferry journey I found myself on Koh Chang. I jumped in the back of a pickup truck taxi and headed for Lonely Beach, the backpacker area and the location of One’s shop. As the driver set off, I looked in through the back window of the

taxi and noticed a traditional Thai tattoo peeking out from under his sleeve, a fierce tiger with its eye on the road. There are hundreds of traditional Thai tattoo designs, many of them animals and each with its own spiritual meaning. Buddhist men get the tattoos to show devotion or, more commonly, as good blessing charms. Their power is believed to be very strong.

Amazingly Thailand has never been occupied by a foreign power. Invading armies all failed in their attempts and reported that the Thai soldiers were warrior ghosts, invisible at times and impossible to kill because of their protective tattoos, called sak yant

The accompanying prayers chanted by the monks who create the tattoos are also believed to be potent. It’s thought that the right tattoo composed by the best tattoo master can stop bullets and knives. Not surprisingly, the tattoos are popular with soldiers, policemen and members of Thailand’s criminal underworld.

I was still brooding on my own tattoo design as we drove up a steeply rising road, high among the trees. Rounding a corner, the foliage cleared and revealed the ocean vista below.

Way out, wallowing in the water like giant hairy beasts, sat dozens of small tree-covered islands, the profound blue surrounding them, gradually lightening into aquamarine as it lapped at the beach. Beyond rose one of the island’s two peaks, shrouded in a blanket of dense virgin rainforest, hiding its mysteries in a labyrinth of lush greenery.

This was the land that tattooed warriors once fought for. It was at this point in the trip I realised that I wanted a traditional Thai design.

Bamboo Business

Walking down a dirt road towards Lonely Beach, I passed many tattooed people. I eventually came across a man sitting outside a tattoo shop, looking like an intimidating warrior ghost, except for the big smile on his face. It was the man himself: One.

After getting settled into a rustic bungalow behind the

shop, I began looking at tattoo designs and finally decided on a traditional dragon accompanied by a Thai devil, a symbol of protection. I must admit, protection or not, I just thought it looked cool.

I was soon lying on the floor, with One working away on my chest. The pain wasn’t too bad just yet, and I busied myself looking at One’s own tattoos.

“My dad did most of my tattoos,” he said, noticing me looking as he rubbed more oil into my skin. “Some of the ones on my legs I did myself.”

Intrigued, I asked him more about how he became a bamboo tattoo artist.

“My dad taught me how to tattoo, and my granddad taught him. It’s a family business,” he laughed. “My granddad was a monk and my dad ran a famous bamboo tattoo school in Bangkok. I also spent three years as a monk learning how to tattoo.”

One did his first tattoo when he was 15 years old and hasn’t looked back since. He has more than 20 years’ experience, and it shows. He’s regarded as one of the best freehand tattoo artists in Thailand.

“It takes two years of training to be able to tattoo with bamboo and many more years before you can do it freehand,” he explained. He stopped and smiled at me. “OK, now you can have a break!”

One is a busy man and will usually see several customers a day, devoting an hour or two to each to keep everyone happy.

While he worked away in the shop, I talked with his partner Olivia Huls, who explained some of the benefits of bamboo over the more conventional machine tattoo.

“As the needles are very thin and placed in a line, instead of a round bullet, it enables the artist to achieve more precision and

a much finer line than that of a machine,” she explained.

“Another benefit is that the skin is punctured, not torn, so there is no bleeding. Machine tattoos bleed because the skin tears as the machine moves over the skin, as opposed to the needles going straight in and straight out with the bamboo process. This results in a significant reduction in pain.”

The fact that there is no bleeding does mean a very quick healing time—about four days. It also translates into a tattoo with strong, vibrant colours, since bleeding pushes the ink out of the skin.

Olivia and I talked awhile longer, but I couldn’t help envisioning my own tattoo. I wondered if I'd made the right decision going bamboo.

Dragon Devil

One scrutinises his work while rubbing in more oil, then taps away for a few more seconds before a peaceful smile plays across his face.

“It’s done,” he says, pointing me in the direction of the mirror. The scales of the dragon hit me first, they seem to shimmer as its body coils round to its majestic head. Smoke swirls in the background, from which an elaborate face glares out menacingly. I gaze in the mirror for a long time, something different catching my eye every few seconds, the subtle shades creating something living on my chest. The intricacy and elegance of it reminds me of the landscape I’d admired earlier in my trip.

I turn to One and give him the thumbs up. The scar is virtually invisible and I think he can tell by my expression that I love the tattoo.

For more information on Sittichai “One” Wanakhun, check out his website: www. bambootattookochang.com.

dispatches

-.. ..

Travel news from around the region and beyond

Travel Deal: Raffles Cambodia

The Deal: Through September 30, Raffles is offering travelers an extravagant yet affordable way to experience Cambodia. During a four-day stay in the country, guests can split accommodation between Siem Reap’s Grand Hotel d’Angkor and Phnom Penh’s Hotel Le Royal for a flat rate of $600. The package includes daily breakfast buffet and a $100 voucher that can be applied to travel between the cities.

The Setting: The historic hotels opened circa 1930 and were refurbished in the late 90s; the result is a marriage of colonial aesthetics and elegant modernity. The Hotel d’Angkor is located on grounds that encompass 60,000 square-metres of garden space with a pool inspired by the emperor’s at Angkor. Hotel Le Royal is more evocative of a chateau with its tree-lined 25-metre lap pool surrounded by colonial-era colonnades. Top of the line dining and luxury treatments at Amrita Spa round out the experience.

Rainforest World Music festival

What better place for a world music festival than Borneo jungle? From July 10 to 12, the Sarawak Cultural Village will host the 12th annual Rainforest World Music Festival at the base of Mount Santubong. The event brings together musicians from all corners of the globe for workshops, ethno-musical lectures and lots of live music.

This year, the festival welcomes performers from more than 15 countries, including Chile, Malaysia, Tanzania, New Zealand and the United States, plus performances by indigenous musicians from Borneo’s interior. For the second year, the World Crafts Bazaar will coincide with the event, and as always, there will be plenty of Malaysian and Asian cuisine for Eastern-oriented foodies.

Advance tickets start at $26 for a one-day pass and $72 for a three-day pass (discounts for kids under 12). Last year, tickets sold out two of three nights, so book ahead. For more information, visit the official website at www. rainforestmusic-borneo.com.

Ginny Becker

The Verdict: Altogether, the package adds up to more than 50-percent savings on accommodation. Both hotels have been certified by Travel + Leisure’s World’s Best Awards and Conde Naste Traveler’s 100 Best of the Best list. For more information or reservations, email rlr.reservationmanager@raffles.com.

Tom DiChristopher

iggy’s Best Year ever

How do you top landing the number one spot on Miele Guide’s inaugural Asia’s Top 20 list? Become the first Southeast Asian country to crack Restaurant magazine’s Top 50 Restaurants in the World. Last month, Iggy’s in Singapore did just that. The Tanglin District restaurant has become a popular dining spot since opening in 2004, and the world is taking notice. Starting with exceptional seasonal ingredients, Iggy’s crafts creative international menus influenced by the travels of owner Ignatius “Iggy” Chan. Chan’s credentials as an award-winning sommelier also make it a worthy destination for oenophiles—pairings are serious business at Iggy’s.

Lunch is comprised of hors d’oeuvres like Kurobuta Pork Ragout and mains like Wagyu Mayura Striploin, with two set table d’hote meals on offer ($55 and $75). Dinner options are limited to a seasonal tasting menu (S$195++), but Iggy’s will accommodate guests with dietary restrictions with prior notice.

Though the 13-seat, kitchen-view counter is in highest demand, you’ll need to make reservations four days in advance for any seat in the house. For more information, visit www.iggys.com.sg.

Tom DiChristopher

hotel & travel

ho chi minh city

DelUXe

Caravelle Hotel

19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999

www.caravellehotel.com

Part of the Furama group, this is one of Saigon’s most prestigious venues. It features a casino, Asian Reflections Restaurant and one of the most pleasant night spots in town, the 10th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar.

Duxton Hotel

63 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxton.com/ho

Four-star boutique hotel located in downtown Saigon. Has all the standard facilities of a hotel of its ilk including the Zanadu Health Club, a gym, outdoor swimming and a main restaurant, The Grill, that does good buffets and excellent meat cuts served hot off the grill.

equatorial

242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm

Well-regarded five-star hotel located to the west of town, with a wide selection of restaurants offering different Western & Asian cuisines and a good health club.

legend Hotel

2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3823 3333

Five-star venue by the river with a highlyrated fitness centre, outdoor pool, kids play centre and a jazz bar.

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon

253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222

www.moevenpick-saigon.com

Internationally acclaimed Swiss chain Mövenpick have brought their clean, fresh take on up-scale hotel accommodation to HCM City. Known for their simple but tasteful decor and superior service, guests can expect fuss-free excellence.

New World

76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888

www.newworldvietnam.com

The first serious luxury hotel to be built in HCM City, the decade old New World has been overtaken by some flashier venues, but still offers business travellers an excellent range of facilities in a good location near downtown.

Park Hyatt

2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234

www.saigon.park.hyatt.com

Luxury colonial-style hotel adjacent to the opera house includes 21 suites, a lobby lounge with live music, two restaurants, a pool, a spa and a fitness centre. Aimed at business travellers and the high-end leisure market.

Renaissance Riverside 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033

www.renaissancehotels.com

Well-appointed five-star hotel down by the Saigon River with 349 deluxe rooms and suites offering panoramic views of both central Saigon and the river. Includes conference and banqueting facilities, a rooftop pool, a gym and two restaurants – The Kabin and the Riverside Cafe.

Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Strategically located in the heart of Saigon’s business and commercial dis-

trict, and regarded as one of the best luxury hotels in town. On the premises are the Level 23 bar, a number of restaurants including the Chinese-themed Li Bai and The Signature on the 23rd floor plus the newly opened Mojo cafe.

Sofitel Plaza Hotel 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com

Located in the business district close to Notre Dame Cathedral and Reunification Palace, the Sofitel remains one of Saigon’s top hotels. Facilities include Wi-Fi in all the rooms, two restaurants with international, French and Mediterranean cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, an outdoor swimming pool and a fitness centre.

Windsor Plaza

18 An Duong Vuong Street, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com

The tallest building in District 5 and one of the main shopping hubs in the area, The Windsor Plaza is home to the newest five-star hotel in Vietnam, with everything under one roof: four restaurants, a modern discotheque, a club, a conference centre, a soon-to-be-opened casino, a health club, a shopping centre, a supermarket, a post office, two banks and great views from the top.

dalat

ana Mandara Villas Dalat Resort & Spa

Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com

The second Evason resort after Nha Trang, this is set in the rural highlands of Dalat, with lovingly restored villas from the 1920s and 30s. Although the plan is to open 17 villas, at the time of writing, only five were in operation, each with three to five en suite rooms. Expect the same immaculate sense of style and service. Rates start from US$186.

Novotel Dalat

7 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 777 www.accorhotels-asia.com

The humbler sister to Sofitel, the Novotel is nevertheless a good choice for those who still want creature comforts but find the five-star prices exorbitant. With two restaurants and three bars, if you book early enough, you can get rooms from US$73.

Sofitel Dalat Palace

12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 444 www.accorhotels-asia.com

The Grand Dame of Dalat hotels with 1920s architecture, old-world charm and a great view of the Xuan Huong Lake.

Sports 38 rooms, five suites, a gourmet restaurant, a brasserie, a piano bar and Larry’s Bar. Golf can be arranged. Prices start from US$260.

hanoi

Hanoi Hilton Opera

1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3933 0500 www.hanoi.hilton.com

A luxury option in a period building to reflect the classic colonial architecture that surrounds it, the Hilton boasts all the facilities you would expect from a topend hotel. Standard rooms usually start at US$335 per night.

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem

Tel: 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com

A string of illustrious guests have graced the halls of this colonial-style prop. Every conceivable comfort is provided and the service is impeccable. Appetites are tended to in the hotel’s famed restaurants and bars. Rooms from US$360.

hoi

an & danang

life Resort Hoi an

1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 3914 555

www.life-resorts.com

Unlike many upscale resorts located near the beach, Life Resort is within walking distance of Hoi An. The rooms are chic and minimalist, but offer all the mod cons. With two restaurants, two bars and an outdoor pool, the wellness services include Chinese medicine, Tai Chi and massage. Internet rates from US$108.

Nam Hai Tel: (85 510) 3940 000 www.ghmhotel.com

This luxurious resort is undoubtedly Vietnam's signature high end resort. Accommodations range from single villas to sumptuous five roomed dwellings with prices starting at $1,000 USD net.

Victoria Hoi an Beach Resort & Spa Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 3927 040

A stunning top-end property with wellappointed, beautifully designed rooms and price tags to match. Set on its own stretch of beach, the resort is styled around the design of a traditional fishing village, with small “streets” and ponds. The 105 rooms, all facing the sea, start at US$135++. hue

imperial Hue 57 Dang Dung, Hue Tel: 054 3522 478 Recently renovated, this luxury property occupies a high-rise building in the heart of Hue. All the facilities and amenities you might expect are here, including a swimming pool, spa and business centre. Standard rooms start at US$150.

la Residence 5 Le Loi, Hue Tel: 054 3837 475 www.la-residence-hue.com

Upmarket hotel across from the former imperial citadel with art-deco interior design. Noted for the views across the Perfume River from its restaurant which serves excellent local, regional and international dishes. Rooms start at US$135.

le Domaine de Tam Hai Tel: 0510 3545105

www.domainedetamhai.com

Located on a island close to Hoi An covering 10 hectares of land, the 12 villas of Le Domaine de Tam Hai start from US$110 per night including dinner and breakfast. A beautiful island paradise with swaying palms and deserted beaches.

nha trang

evason Hideaway at ana Mandara Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222

www.sixsenses.com/hideaway-anamandara

Like the name suggests, this is the place to come if an island hideaway with topmost views, facilities and service is what you’re after. Accessible only by boat and located on the dramatic Ninh Van Bay, it is built to reflect the architectural styles of Vietnam. Rooms start from US$734++.

evason ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222

www.sixsenses.com/evason-anamandara

Located on the beach to the south of Nha Trang, this resort is set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden and features 74 guest villas and three restaurants. Furnished with native woods and rattan, it also sports a Six Senses Spa as well as top class facilities. From US$266++ a night.

Sunrise Beach Resort

12-14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3820999

www.sunrisehotelvietnam.com

Five-star hotel in the centre of Nha Trang mixing modern resort comfort with a private beach and views over Nha Trang Bay. Has all the standard top-end facilities including gym, fitness centre, outdoor pool and water sports.

phan thiet

Romana Resort

Km8, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3741 289

www.romanaresort.com.vn

Newly-opened resort with 10 beach front villas and 18 hill villas in addition to presidential suites and deluxe rooms with all the mod cons. All the suites and villas have private pools. Price start at US$110.

The Sailing Club

24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com

One of the most popular resorts in Mui Ne with an open bar overlooking the sea. The spacious rooms enjoy a garden setting, beautiful architecture and all the luxurious details. It also has a restaurant, swimming pool and day spa. Rooms start from US$60.

Princess D’annam Resort and Spa

Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan Tel: 84 62 3682 222 www.princessannam.com

The Princess d'Annam is the first all-villa luxury boutique resort in Vietnam and is located on Ke Ga Bay, a four-hour drive from HCM City. Designed by worldrenowned architect Tan Hock Beng, the resort style mixes modernist sensibility and post-colonial ambience. With its 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square merers spa complex, Princess d’Annam is an idyllic haven of calm and luxury.

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach, Tel: 84 62 3813 000 www.victoriahotels-asia.com

Located beside a vast, palm-fringed private white sand beach on the South China Sea. 60 cosy bungalows set in exotic gardens, designed in the style of traditional Vietnamese country houses, the setting offers an idyllic location for a relaxing getaway. Enjoy the natural spa experiences amongst other great activities on offer at the resort. Prices start from US$170++.

phu quoc

la Veranda Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 077 3982 888

www.laverandaresort.com

The first luxury resort on the island. Designed like a seaside colonial-style mansion, the resort is set amid tropical gardens along a pristine white sand beach. Features a highly-rated spa, beach grill, Vietnamese, Asian and European cuisine. Rooms from US$138++.

Mango Bay Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0903 382 207

www.mangobayphuquoc.com

Despite its stunning beach location, a low-cost resort with an ecological outlook. Promotes nature activities such as forest walks and snorkelling. Features an open-air seaside restaurant serving excellent seafood. No TV or telephone.

travel agents

Budget Car Rentals

198 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3930 2929, Ho Chi Minh City Intl Airport Tel: 3930 2929

International rental agency offers chauffeur-driven cars to destinations throughout Vietnam. Drivers are proficient in English and trained in defensive driving. Airport and resort transfers, daily rentals and corporate fleets available.

Buffalo Tours

Suite 601, Satra House, 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9170 www.buffalotours.com

Tailor-made itineraries, community-based tourism, cultural tours and adventure trips are the name of the game here with this locally run and well-respected travel agent. They also do a selection of golfing and premium trips. Check out their website for details.

exotissimo

HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911 Fax: 3827 2912 infosgn@exotissimo.com

SD5-2 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh St, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 2761 62 Fax: 5412 2759 pmh@exotissimo.com

HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem District

Tel: 04 3828 2150 Fax 04 3828 2146 infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com

Excellent French-owned agency specialising in flight bookings, package holidays and a range of well-run cultural and historical tours of Vietnam and SouthEast Asia. All bookings and enquiries can be done by e-mail and the staff are efficient and helpful. Travel brochures available online.

iViVu

www.ivivu.com

Said to be the only online travel company in Vietnam that offers online bookings in both languages. iViVu offers the traditional services of a travel agent – airline tickets, tours, packages and hotels as well as tips and up-to-date travel news on Vietnam. Free ticket delivery within Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

Terraverde

91/10 Tran Quoc Hoan, Tan Binh Tel: 3948 4754/56 info@terraverdetravel.com www.terraverdetravel.com

German-owned travel agency specialising in tailor-made tours combining nature experiences, site visits, cultural encounters and more, including biking, boating and trekking expeditions. Mixes cultural experience with light adventure tourism.

Trails of indochina

10/8 Phan Dinh Giot, Tan Binh Tel: 3844 1005

www.trailsofindochina.com

Specialists in custom-made tours, Trails of Indochina offers quality and unique cultural and adventurous experiences throughout the region. The company says its list of exclusive resources and locations contribute to make the most memorable trips.

nordic exposure

After years of operating under the radar, the new Nordic cuisine movement is finally gaining worldwide attention. Tom DiChristopher sits down with two of Sweden’s esteemed chefs to learn more about the region’s culinary awakening. Photos by f red Wissink

It’s day six of the Equatorial Hotel’s Nordic Week. Visiting chefs Niclas Wahlstrom and Magnus Johansson are sitting at a corner table at Chit Chat at the Café with Equatorial executive chef Vincent Tan. As I approach to begin the interview, I feel a pang of guilt; the Swedes are clearly exhausted. The coffee over which Wahlstrom is hunched appears to be his only lifeline, and Johansson, usually a giant of a man, seems to have shrunk in stature.

Packed lunch and dinner services, presiding over cooking classes, coaching a kitchen staff to whom liquorice mustard is likely as alien as Martian soufflé—it all has the chefs running on empty.

But then something happens. We start talking about food— Nordic food—and suddenly, the strawberry glow returns to Wahlstrom’s cheeks and Johansson perks up, assuming the mantle of (self-proclaimed) “tallest pastry chef in the world.”

The enthusiasm is mutual. Since dining at the Nordic Week press dinner, I’ve become smitten. Questioning Niclas Wahlstrom, the executive chef of Stockholm’s renowned Den Gyldene Freden, and Magnus Johansson, winner of the 2002 Culinary Olympics and World Cup and Nobel Prize dinner patisserie chef, is a rare opportunity to learn about new

Nordic cuisine from two of its contemporary architects. If you find yourself wondering what’s so enthralling about herring, reindeer and meatballs, think again. The Nordic region is in the midst of a culinary Renaissance, a rebirth of national cuisines that’s been quietly playing out for more than a decade and has established countries like Sweden, Norway and Denmark as vanguards in the global trend of back-to-basics cooking.

“Even Paul Bocuse says that the culinary centre has moved from France up to Scandinavia,” says Johansson. “If that guy is saying that, there must be something going on up there.”

Paul Bocuse is of course one of the most influential chefs of the 20th century. As an innovator of nouvelle cuisine, it makes sense that he would single out Scandinavia. In its emphasis on fresh and simple local flavours, respect for (but not ironclad adherence to) tradition and sophisticated yet uncomplicated presentation, new Nordic cuisine shares the conceptual framework of Bocuse’s early work, but proceeds from distinctly regional traditions. lost and found

The new Nordic cuisine can be difficult to conceptualise, not least because so few are familiar with old Nordic cuisine. Even

among foodies, the region was previously known for being unremarkable. Indeed, with the rebirth in full swing, it’s become a food writing cliché to express disbelief that a remarkable meal is Nordic in origin.

Am I really in Copenhagen? asks the writer. Impossible!

The reasons for Nordic cuisine’s arrested development are many. In the case of Sweden, Wahlstrom cites the flight of culinary knowledge that resulted from mass Swedish immigration through 1920, as well as the country’s continuing economic hardship. No matter the cause, the pattern has been similar: French influence throughout the 60s and 70s followed by a flirtation with a hodgepodge of world cuisines.

“During the 80s and 90s we did a lot of this fusion cooking,” says Wahlstrom. “I think the food didn’t have an identity. The food was a little bit whatever.”

Establishing that identity has become an imperative, and some chefs have gone to extremes in their pursuits.

Danish food personality Claus Meyer, for one, searches the far corners of the Nordic for unknown regional foods. He has even taken to aging local plum and apple balsamics as homegrown substitutes for Italian balsamic vinegars.

“The turning point for the revitalization of Spanish cuisine was innovation in restaurant

cooking,” writes Meyer on his personal website. “The New Nordic Cuisine, on the other hand is very much about the quality of primary produce.”

On this point, Wahlstrom agrees: “You want to go back to the basics, to the cleanness,” he says. “You want to know where the product is from. You serve the product as natural as you can and give the customers value for money.”

Along with natural local flavours, Wahlstrom says basic preparation methods—smoking, drying, salting, curing—identify the cuisine as Swedish. A good example is Wahlstrom’s Nordic Week main: a lamb loin (airdried) wrapped in a shroud of Parma ham, seasoned with garden herbs and dill sauce and served with seasonal vegetables.

“It’s all about the lamb and the dill,” says Wahlstrom. “That combination is the Swedish one. The ham helps the presentation of the dish because we can serve lamb in a different way and bring some other flavours to it, just to make it more interesting.”

The vegetables and dill sauce represent other hallmarks of new Nordic cuisine: an emphasis on light, healthful sides and a rejection of heavy French sauces.

Johansson, too, plays with tradition. While his raspberrybased parfait and sorbet were remarkable, his take on the blini

offered the clearest evidence of imagination; he exchanged the traditional caviar and onion for raspberry, pecans and sugar.

“It tastes nice, but you’re not used to eating it as a dessert,” says Johansson. “It’s just another thing to think about and talk about.”

the nordic gets its due

At the beginning of the interview, I questioned the chefs about a statement made by Marcus Samuelsson—the Gotenburg-raised chef who at 25 became head of New York’s Aquavit. In an interview with Gourmet magazine last year, Samuelsson claimed that fine dining in Sweden was strictly French 10 years ago.

“It’s been going on for a long time, I think,” asserts Johansson.

“The French way of eating is not what we have in Sweden at the moment, and it hasn’t been like that for 15 years.”

When asked when the world first took note, Wahlstrom, Johansson and Tan all agree: the international cooking competitions.

Since 1991, Norway and France have been rivals at the biannual Bocuse D’Or, with either team finishing in the top spot—except for 1997, when Sweden took the prize.

Altogether, Norway, Sweden and Denmark have together taken five first-place finishes,

seven second-place finishes and three third-place finishes since the 1989 inaugural competition. In 2004, Sweden became the first country to rack up backto-back wins at the quadrennial International Exhibition of Culinary Art (IKA), better known as the Culinary Olympics. Last year, Norway walked away with the honours. Next came the publications and guides. In 2006, Claus Meyer and René Redzepi’s Nordic-oriented Noma in Denmark landed on Restaurant magazine’s Top 50 list at number 33. This year, it ranked number three, finishing behind two molecular gastronomy eateries: Ferran Adria’s El Bulli in Roses, Spain and Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck in Bray, Berkshire, England.

Gradually, more than just outsiders took an interest. When it premiered in the United States in 2003, New Scandinavian Cooking with Andreas Viestad attracted five million American viewers, and has since aired in about 60 countries throughout its five seasons. In a relatively short time, the new Nordic cuisine had found its way from the insular realm of competitive kitchens to living rooms around the world.

if you cook it, they will come But here’s the big question: will the cities of the Nordic become

food destinations?

Niclas Wahlstrom thinks so. As Stockholm’s oldest unrenovated restaurant, Den Gyldene Freden has always been attractive to visitors, but Wahlstrom has seen signs that the word is getting out about new Nordic cuisine.

“Since I’ve started there, we’ve gone back to this Swedish authentic cuisine, more than the chef before me. I’ve seen that [the tourism] is increasing. For the evenings, more than 50 percent of our guests are tourists or foreigners.”

If establishing the Nordic as a food centre is the goal, the New Nordic Kitchen Manifesto that emerged from the 2004 Nordic Cuisine Symposium might be the guiding light. The 10-point agenda lays out the tenets for a concerted movement and has garnered the full backing of the Council of Nordic Ministers. The project is not without precedent. In 1973 Basque chefs, inspired by nouvelle cuisine, drafted a resolution to develop Spanish food along the same lines. Today, Nueva Basque cuisine is a fixture of the culinary world’s upper echelons.

One day soon, no matter where you’re from, you may not have to wait for a Scandinavian vacation or an annual food promotion. Getting great new Nordic might be as simple as heading downtown.

casual and coastal

The Sailing Club recently brought its beachside restaurant concept to HCM City. Helen Shutt stopped by Sandals to sample some of the restaurant’s old favourites and a few new creations. Photos by fred Wissink.

From the management behind the restaurants at The Sailing Club Mui Ne and Nha Trang comes Sandals, newly opened and aiming to bring a little sunshine to overcast HCM City on the cusp of the rainy season. Although unable to boast the coastal location of its sister restaurants, there remains a distinctly ‘beachy’ feel to Sandals. The clean lines of the magnolia decor exude a freshness that is juxtaposed with warm pine furniture and comfy wicker stools. Managing to retain a light and airy atmosphere despite the gloom outside, there is something very Zen about the space, which is best exemplified by the striking gold Buddhas watching over the downstairs bar and open-air third-floor lounge.

A number of the dishes that secured the popularity of the

Nha Trang and Mui Ne establishments can be found here.

Head chef and restaurant manager Louis Walters is proud of the relationship with the sister branches, but he's keen to cultivate a reputation for Sandals HCM City in its own right, so customers can expect additions and variations on the menu.

The oak-smoked salmon with chilli polenta (95,000 VND) is a standout on the salad menu that makes a light meal. The spicy cornmeal and crispy exterior of the polenta compliments the cool, moist salmon. Similarly, the heat of the chilli is tempered by the dollops of cream cheese that accompany the dish.

A more accessible introduction to the meaty bird is the ostrich burger with sweet fries (100,000 VND). The spicy guacomole sits in the mild-tomedium heat index, so ask for a light dressing if your tastes lie on the extreme low end of the Scoville scale.

Another light dish is the New Zealand green lip mussels in coconut and chilli sauce (90,000 VND). The green lip mussels are much larger than blue shells and provide substantial meat. The portion (as well as the size of the mussels themselves) is quite generous, so this may serve

Clearer evidence of Walters’ South African background is the ostrich and bleu cheese salad (90,000 VND). The savoury ostrich, sharp bleu cheese crumble and tart grape compote combine to create a fairly complex bouquet of flavour that might be too bold for some, but it should provide a treat for those who enjoy new taste combinations and textures.

For such a varied and refined menu, prices are surprisingly reasonable.

as a pleasant appetiser shared between two or three people. With mussels it is often the sauce that really makes the dish; that’s certainly the case with this creamy Thai-influenced accompaniment.

In a city where sea bass is plentiful and reasonably priced, it's no surprise the fish appears on so many menus. What’s special about Sandals’ oven-roasted sea bass (110,000 VND) is the fusion of flavours. It’s the saltiness of the olive tapenade that first hits the front of the mouth.

The prominent bitterness of the capers is offset by the sweetness of the orange cardamom reduction and the balsamic glaze. Coupled with cauliflower mash, a sweeter and healthier alternative to traditional potato, this meal will likely prove as popular here as it has in Mui Ne.

On the dessert menu, there are some creative items to satisfy sweet tooths. The chocolate torte with vanilla yoghurt ice cream (40,000 VND) certainly fits the bill. The bitter chocolate is rich and thick, offset by the tartness of the yoghurty ice-cream, which cleanses and refreshes the palate.

There are plenty of fresh fruit juices, smoothies and lassies to wash down your meal, as well as an extensive wine menu, boasting largely New World wines. Cocktail drinkers can en-

joy new takes on old classics like the chilli martini or melonhito, as well as the staple tipples.

For such a refined menu, prices are surprisingly reasonable. Indeed, the sophisticated dishes shouldn't be cause to don glad rags and sit up straight.

“We want this to be a place people can relax and can just pop into with no need to run home, shower and dress up,” says Walters. “Customers should view this as a comfortable place to be, somewhere they can drop by a couple of times a week.”

Indeed Sandals may become a prime spot to catch up on a little R&R in the midst of the city.

Excerpt on ostrich and blue cheese salad and ostrich burgers contributed by Tom DiChristopher. 93 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Open from 10am to 1am

Oak-smoked salmon with chilli polenta

Ostrich and bleu cheese salad

Green lip mussels in coconut and chilli sauce

food & drink guide

bar restaurants

alibi

11 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 3240

Hip without being showy, this versatile venue has a pleasant courtyard, stand up bar and comfortable lounge seating with bright, warm décor and great tunes. The drinks list is extensive with option beyond the norm and the food menu boasts French-style mains.

Buddha Bar

7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080

This An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. With coloured walls and cushioned lounges, Buddha Bar has all the perks of a classy joint without the pretensions. 

Cantina Central

51 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3914 4697

Slick and colourful decoration and an upbeat atmosphere complement the authentic Mexican fare at this Latino eatery. Fresh and tasty dishes prepared in an open kitchen according to traditional recipes with fresh ingredients make this an excellent option.

K Cafe

28 Do Quang Dau, D1 Tel: 3913 4673

This down-to-earth bistro-bar is a haven for French-speaking emigrés looking for an alternative in the backpackers’ area.

Prop up the bar with a beer or Ricard, or tuck into the tasty Gallic fare. Good atmosphere for conversation.

la Habana

6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180

This charming little place has seating indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure. Relaxed environment with frequent live music. Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three plates. Open late daily.

le Pub

175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1

One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily. Special care paid to preparation of vegetarian dishes.

Mogambos

50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311

This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specialises in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere.

O’Brien’s

74/A2 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3829 3198

A large Celtic-style pub popular with media types that has an interior done in brickwork and wood, and an upstairs dining area. Draught beer is happy hour between 3pm and 7pm. Great pizzas.

Qing 110 Pasteur, D1

A classy downtown bar just off Le Loi that specialises in Asian tapas, as well as Asian/South American fusion dishes (and a few delectable deserts). Variety of good wines by the glass and the bottle.

Sheridan’s rish House

17/13 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 0793

Cosy Irish pub with authentic pub decor, a pleasant atmosphere and a lingering sense of Ireland. Wide range of classic

pub grub, as well as a fantastic breakfast fry-up available from 8am.

Storm P Bar & Restaurant

5B Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 2240 7477

This friendly hangout is a favourite with both the Scandinavian community and English-speaking expats. Offers Danish cuisine to go with the drinks.

The Tavern

24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900

One of Phu My Hung’s favourite restaurants boasts a friendly staff, good international food, a pool table and dartboards and lots of sports coverage on two 42’’ plasma screens, a projector and three additional TVs. A relaxing patio is located above the ground floor bar/ restaurant, and the second floor is home to a multi-purpose sports lounge with DJs spinning on the weekends. 

Vasco’s Bar

74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 2888 Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets packed to capacity on weekends. Open Monday to Saturday with live music on Fridays. Food menu by chef with over 10 years experience at La Camargue. Also does excellent pizza. 

ZanZBar

41 Dong Du, D1

41 Vo Truong Toan, D2

Funky, modern interiors are a dominant feature of both ZanZBar locations, and both offer varied international breakfast, lunch and dinner cuisine. Imported beers, cocktails, gourmet espresso coffee, and happy hours make them great after-work spots but are also open late. An Phu location features an open-air terrace.

chinese

Dragon Court

11-13 Lam Son Square, D1

Open for lunch and dinner until 2am, this vast, no-frills eatery gets packed with hungry locals who savour generous portions of tasty dim sum. All the Chinese staples are here, but beef with ginger and lemongrass is recommended. Expect a good feed for under VND100,000 per person.

Dynasty Restaurant

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888

Fine Chinese dining in an opulent restaurant reminiscent of the Middle Kingdom’s imperial days. Delicacies clock in at VND500,000, but most dishes fall between VND80,000 to VND180,000

Huy long Vien

99 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 7799

A magnificent Chinese restaurant with a leafy slate-tiled courtyard, Chinese lanterns, a labyrinth of water works and upstairs VIP rooms. Lunchtime dim sum is 120,000VND, while the a la carte menu runs higher with Chinese specialties such as Peking duck for 400,000 VND.

Kabin

Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033

Elegant dining space with beautiful decor and great views over the river offers extensive lunch and dinner menus featuring authentic gourmet Cantonese and Szechuan dishes and an assortment of dim sum at lunchtime.

l Bai Level 2, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi,

D1 Tel: 3827 2828

Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch time dim sum buffet for US$17.00. Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from VND100,000.

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant

Windsor Plaza Hotel, 5th floor

18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688

Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

Shang Palace Restaurant 1st floor, Norfolk Mansion 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221

An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere. Open 10.30am – 2.00pm for lunch and 6.00pm – 10.00pm for dinner. The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

french

au Parc

23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772

This well established café serves excellent coffees, juices and tasty light meals with a pleasant park view. Look out for regular photography and art exhibits.

BiBi

17A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3824 2487

Gallic flare abounds at this established French eatery. Serves up typical fare with a focus on Mediterranean dishes.

Jardin Delice

4 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4722

Located in a beautiful French villa with a swimming pool and spa open to diners, Jardin Delice specialises in high-end French cuisine. Hip setting provides a mish-mash of colourful glass plates, chairs and massive paintings.

la Bordeaux

F7-F8, D2 Road, P25, Binh Thanh Tel: 3899 9831

French fine dining in an elegant, intimate dark wood loft space punctuated with linen-draped tables. Expect simple, classic dishes like prepared to perfection. Rotating seasonal menu.

la Camargue

191 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3520 4888

Boasts a reputation for excellence in fine dining for more than 10 years. High-end modern French and Italian cuisine is served in an colonial-style alfresco dining space regularly patronized by the city’s movers and shakers.

la fourchette

9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3829 8143 Rustic downtown restaurant, with a good longstanding reputation for serving good traditional French fare at reasonable prices. Open 12am to 2 pm and from 7pm to 10pm.

la Nicoise

42 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3822 8613

Small French-style bistro, with pretty mosaic tiled bar and tables. Offers a good range of teas, coffees and espressobased drinks. Lunch menu changes daily, but always encompasses traditional French food. Open until 10pm.

le Jardin

31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 8465

This delightful restaurant in a picturesque garden setting is open for lunch and dinner and serves excellent French food at reasonable prices. Main courses cost

about VND60,000 and a carafe of house wine costs VND50,000. A very popular spot with French and non-French Westerners alike.

l’en Tête

1st Floor, 139 Nguyen Thai Binh, D1 Tel: 3821 4049

Open from Monday to Saturday from 6pm to midnight, this stylish bistro and gallery serves up a large selection of French fare. Main courses start at 120,000 VND and represent an excellent selection of classic French fish and meat dishes, as well as international cuisine. Live music on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays starting at 8 pm.

l’Olivier

1st floor Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555

Imaginative French cuisine cooked up is a blend of classic and contemporary.

Chef Sakal Phoeung prepares a solid but creative selection of French favourites with an extensive range of fish and meat dishes.

Sesame

153 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh Tel: 0989 765472

A self-styled hospitality school for disadvantaged children, Sesame gives practical experience to its students through its operational restaurant. Serving a mixture of French and Vietnamese cuisine, lunchtime dining hours are Tuesday to Saturday from 11am to 2pm and Friday and Saturday evenings from 7pm to 10pm.

Ty Coz

178/4 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3822 2457

Homely and attractive venue run by two brothers specialises in classic French cuisine. Does excellent three-course business set meals for VND160,000 and sells carefully selected seafood. The roof terrace is popular at night.

indian

ashoka

17/10 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1372

33 Tong Huu Dinh, D2 Tel: 744 4144

S9-1 lo R13 - KP Hung Vuong 2, D7 Tel: 5410 1989

Ashoka is one of the city’s most popular and enduring Indian restaurants with a reputation for good food and service at a reasonable price.

Ganesh

15 - B4 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 3017

Casual dining with takeaway available, Ganesh serves up both North and South Indian culinary traditions. Very reasonably priced, with vegetarian curries from VND40,000 and chicken dishes from VND64,000. 

Mumtaz

226 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3837 1767

Reasonably priced north and south Indian fare in a clean, light and spacious setting. Vegetarian curries go for around VND30,000 while meat dishes cost between VND45,000 and VND55,000 each. Excellent kebabs. 

Saigon indian

1st floor, 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671

Popular venue with an enormous menu. Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available. 

Tandoor

74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839

Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern In-

Urban & Suburban

dian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organise catering for events. 

international

a fresco’s

21 Mac Dinh Chi D1

27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317

Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu. 

amigo Grill

55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 0437

Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables and banquette seating. Dishes such as leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11am to 11pm.

au lac Do Brazil

238 Pasteur, D3 Tel: 3820 7157 36/19-21 Pham Van Nghi-Bac, D7 Tel: 5410 5566

A Brazilian barbecue restaurant definitely not for those on a diet. The mixed grills, rodizio and churrasco are mouthwateringly good and served in generous portions.

au Parc

23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772

Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats. Specialises in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer. Open 7.30am to 10.30pm. 

Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055

628 An Binh, An Phu, D2

Tel: 3898 9837

480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 2241 9100

Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare. Particularly popular is the extensive range of sandwiches and burgers. The District 2 location also features a slate of sushi and Mexican food, and the District 7 outpost has a full barbecue menu. All with Wi-Fi and good breakfast options. 

BoatHouse

40 Lily Road, APSC Compound

(36 Thao Dien), D2, Tel: 3744 6790

Serene riverside restaurant with umbrellashaded tables spread across an outdoor deck and small open indoor dining room.

Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include

street gourmet banh ong la dua

At first glance, banh ong la dua looks like a spring roll.

But take a bite of this sweet indulgence and you'll find you've skipped your appetizer and main course and gone directly to dessert. Inside the roll is a neatly packed cluster of shredded coconut, sesame seeds and rice flour topped off with a generous sprinkling of

the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

BoatHouse Cafe

37 Thao Dien, D2

BoatHouse’s sister eatery for take-away and delivery service. Offers coffee, breakfast sandwiches, juices, smoothies, pre-packaged salads, rotisserie chickens, sandwiches, sausage rolls, burgers, crab cakes and fish and chips.

Bread & Butter

40/24 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3836 8452

Small eatery with a reputation for good prices and excellent mainstream food cooked by an English chef. The restaurant sits on the second floor above a ground-floor bar. Recommended: burgers using 100% imported beef.

sugar. The rice flour is mixed with la dua leaves, giving it a pastel green colour and nutty flavour. Finally, it's steamed in a long, thin bamboo tube for several minutes and wrapped in rice paper with the other ingredients. Banh ong la dua is a flavourful and filling snack that will run you 3,000 VND per piece.

Cafe evita

230 Nguyen Van Huong, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3512 3888

Academic-themed menu at this outlet near the British International School includes meals like The Principal, a triple-decker club with fries and salad (VND60,000) and burgers that range from First to Fourth Grade. Also has a wood-fired pizza oven.

Café Bistro

1st fl, 6 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3823 8866 Affordable, elegant Vietnamese and international cuisine served all day in a comfortable, design-led dining room on the corner of Dong Khoi below On the 6. Features daily happy hour from 5 to 7pm and a bento box-esque Vietnamese set lunch.

Cafe latin

19-21 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 6363

Flagship dish the Latin Recovery covers every breakfast fry-up base and satisfies even the most insatiable early-morning cravings. Breakfast available all day, along with a range of other pub grub favourites, including the infamous Cafe Latin sausage roll.

Cepage

Lancaster Building

22 Le Thanh Ton, D1

One of the city’s premier venues, Cepage delivers an up-market bar, wine lounge and restaurant in one sleek package. Sells several wines by the glass with several hundred bottles to choose from and also mixes some of the best cocktails.

The Deck

38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632

Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Highly designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

Dragon’s Nest

186 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 6271 2072/3

This exquisitely designed restaurant tucked into a luxurious spa complex features indoor and outdoor seating, an extensive menu, WiFi access and delivery service. From heavenly fruit smoothies to sumptuous main meals, there is something for every hour of the day. Don’t miss the knock-out cocktail list.

Gartenstadt

34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623

Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer.

Gia Dining Room

5a Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3827 9399 www.giadiningroom.com

Asian and Western specialties are served up for breakfast, lunch and dinner in a contemporary and refined Oriental setting. The Gia Dining Room also has sister locations in Danang, Nha Trang and Dalat.

Good eats

NTFQ2, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai

Thao Dien, D2, Tel: 3744 6672

Healthy alfresco dining with custom menu of Eastern and Western dishes tailored to include essential nutrients and accompanied by caloric calibrations for easy streamlining with fitness regimens. Includes juice, smoothie, h2O and wine and beer bars and healthy snacks from Harvest Baking. Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Barbeque skewer at Buddha Bar, An Phu

Hideaway Cafe

41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3822 4222

www.hideawaycafe-saigon.com

Stylishly decorated and relaxing restaurant and cafe serving an eclectic range of tasty European-style food. Hosts an excellent chill-out zone out back. 

Jaspa’s

33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926

Immaculate yet unpretentious brasseriestyle restaurant owned by the Al Fresco’s chain. Specialises in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Main courses start at VND100,000. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts the popular monthly Spam Cham networking event. 

Juice

49 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3829 6900

Bright and stylish deli-style restaurant serving salads, sandwiches, quiches and meat pies with French fries and potato salad. Excellent smoothies and juices, as well as novelty drinks like wheatgrass shooter (VND21,000) and Cannonball cocktail (VND69,000). 

Mekong Merchant

23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713

Centred on a courtyard with green colonial-style shutters, this rustic Australian-style brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban

An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches. Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc. 

Orientica

Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm

Top-end seafood and grill restaurant boasting modern, classy decor with an atmosphere to match. Good service and excellent food presentation make this a pleasant dining spot if you want to avoid downtown Saigon.

Pacharan Tapas and Bodega

97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024

Occupying four floors with three bars and space for 100 diners, this tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients for upwards of VND50,000.

The exclusively Spanish wine list is also extensive with prices starting at VND210,000. Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5pm to 7pm and all day Wednesday.

Pepperoni’s

111 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4989

Attractive pizza and pasta restaurant from the same chain as Al Fresco’s.

Good cheap buffet lunches on weekdays and all-round large and tasty portions. 

The Refinery

74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509

Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Reflections

Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999

Superb fine dining restaurant offering the creative culinary creations of Executive Chef Timo Alfred Fritz Reuss. Whether for a meal or a drink at the bar, this is one of Saigon’s most prominent venues.

River Café

53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien D2 Tel: 3744 4111

Located on the premises of the secluded luxury Riverside Apartments. Bistro-style dining with a focus on gussied-up seafood dishes like blackened sea bass with ratatouille.

Riverside Cafe

Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033

A see-and-be-seen international venue

opening onto the bustling river sidewalk, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and particularly noted for its sumptuous buffet selection which combines Asian, Western and Vietnamese cuisine.

Sandals

93 Hai Ba Trung, D1

www.sailingclubvietnam.com

Casual dining in evocative 3-floor space with blonde wood accents and cosy seating throughout. Kitchen turns out elegant and inspired fare at surprising value for money: meal-sized salads; filling burgers, wraps and sandwiches; and excellent lunch and dinner entrees.

Signature Restaurant

Level 23, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828

Fine dining with panoramic views over central Saigon. Choose dishes à la carte or go for the five course set menu. Food is stunningly presented, top-end European cuisine with Asian influences cooked by German chef Andreas Schimanski.

Skewers

9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com

Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and the increasingly ubiquitous kebab. Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas. 

Square One Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3520 2359

Specialising in high-end Western and Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves charcoal-grilled meats and seafood, as well as steamed and wok-cooked Vietnamese fare.

Chic, middle-eastern themed eatery swathed in oranges and reds selling cuisine courtesy of Damascan chef, Nouman. Mezze tapas-like mainstays go for around VND45,000 a dish and larger options such as the kefta kebab cost from VND125,000. Hookas available.

Xu Saigon

71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com

Inspired restaurant with an F&B director with a passion for mixing Vietnamese cooking with flavours and styles from around the world. Sleek but sparsely designed, a meal here guarantees a nouveau take on Vietnamese cuisine.

italian

Good Morning Vietnam

197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894

Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country. Specialises in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines. 

la Hostaria

17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080

Rustic maroon and grey eatery specialising in top-end traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from VND130,000 with daily specials on offer. Excellent pizza. 

Opera

Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234

Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed brick and glass. The space revolves around an island kitchen from which chefs produce gourmet Italian fare. Internationally trained chefs work with the freshest and finest ingredients around to produce some superb dishes. Highly recommended.

skin rolls are also a treat. The assorted sushi and sashimi, tasty and beautifully presented, costs around US$8. Leave some room for the lovely homemade yogurt.

Kuru Kuru Sushi

129 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3824 3566

Sushi restaurant with colour-coded menu items served from a rotating conveyor belt. Helpful place mats in both English and Vietnamese break down prices and explain how to choose your food. An excellent and relatively inexpensive dining option.

Nishimura

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available. Set lunches cost about US$15—pricey by Vietnamese standards but worth every cent when you're in the mood.

Sakae Sushi

Nowzone @ Royal Centre, Level 4 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Tel: 3504 0054

Healthful, affordable and quick service kaiten (conveyor belt) sushi makes for a fun dining experience. Sushi starting at 26,000 VND and 4 pieces of sashimi for 60,000 VND. Extensive menu also offering beef, chicken and vegetarian options.

Sushi Shop

2nd fl, 159 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3823 4910

vegetarian

an lac Chay

175/4 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 3837 0760

Apropos of the backpacker district, this little restaurant offers no frills, decent service and a vast menu. Though meat dishes are available, it specialises in vegetarian Vietnamese and quirky “backpacker favourite” dishes, all at budget prices. Open 7.30am to midnight. 

Hoa Dang

38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1

Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho, and steamboat starting at VND30,000. Incorporates a cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

Viet Chay

339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862

Upscale vegetarian restaurant serving mostly fake meat dishes in an attractive dining room suffused with natural light. Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

vietnamese

Hoa Tuc

74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 1676

This comfortable high-end restaurant serves traditional Vietnamese fare with a contemporary, classy twist. Expect to find your local favourites as you've never experienced them before. Beautifully plated, this is Vietnamese cuisine at its best.

Texas BarBQ 15/1 Le Thanh Ton, D1

The flavour and feel of the Wild Wild West is evoked by both the food and décor at this perennially popular eatery. Think saloon doors and cowboy hats. Quarter rack ribs are a mainstay. The large and buzzy dining space is perfect for big groups. 

Typhoon

Riverside Apartments, 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3744 4111, Ext. 706/707

Family-friendly restaurant serving a varied slate influenced by the gulf cuisines of Southeast and East Asia and Central America. New and Old World wines, imported beers and tropical cocktails served inside or poolside. Accessible from downtown by Riverside boat shuttle.

Warda 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3822

Sarpino’s

125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7788

Tasty American-style pan pizza in a pleasant and fresh Italian-themed environment. Four sizes available, from personal to extra large, with a large range of toppings. Also serves pasta, soups, wings and salads. 

Scoozi

6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5795

Italian pizza restaurant affiliated with Centro Caffe serving tasty gourmet pizzas prepared in a wood-fired oven. The delicious creations restore one’s faith in HCM City’s ability to turn out a quality pie. 

japanese&korean

K Cafe

74 A4 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 5355

Small, cosy and cheery, this café is noteworthy for its cracking hand rolls. Salmon

Sushi restaurant that specialises in colourful and creative fusion rolls. Individual pieces priced according to size: hoisomaki (small), maki (medium) and futomaki (large). Also has a small, affordable selection of standby ngiri and sashimi. Great faux-street decor with stunning view of Opera House.

The Sushi Bar

2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042

This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30pm, delivery available on request. Popular with expats and locals alike. 

Zen

20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 0782

Located amid the sea of Japanese restaurants on Le Thanh Ton Street, Zen offers a wide range of Japanese dishes. The yakitori station grills up fantastic steak and quail’s eggs, and the chilled udon noodles are also a standout.

southeast asian

lac Thai

71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506

Hoi an 11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 7694

Fine dining Vietnamese-style courtesy of two sumptuously decorated colonial villas, a bamboo-clad walled courtyard and a menu spanning the three main regions of Vietnam. Specialities include abalone soup and a raw fish salad. Four VIP rooms.

Mandarine Restaurant 11A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 3822 9783

Fine dining Vietnamese-style courtesy of two sumptuously decorated colonial villas, an antique wooden stair and a menu spanning all regions of Vietnam. Traditional music performances are available for dinner.

Miami 23 Ton Dan Ph 13, D4 Tel: 083 941 5433

Rooftop BBQ, Seafood and Hot Pot, the soul of Asia... Only 5 minutes from downtown

23 Ton Dan Str., W13, D4, HCMC Tel: 083 941 5433 Email: blackcatsaigon@yahoo.com

An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway and decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand. Daily set lunch menu is a good value. 

Sawasdee Saigon

102 - 104 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3925 7777

Authentic Thai cuisine in a warm, friendly atmosphere. 

Satay House

35 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3822 1727

Bright and rustic, this Malaysian-run place specialises in Halal food. Chicken and asam fish curries are must-tries. Its famous satays are equally delicious. 

The Red Dot

21 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 5123

Aptly titled, this Singaporean restaurant serves decent chicken rice, char kway teow, chili crab, and a handful of Malaysian specialties. 

Lively, interactive restaurant serving primarily Vietnamese seafood dishes like hotpot using choice ingredients. Guests can choose from market-style selection and watch as chefs prepare their meals. Frequent food promotions on offer in three dining rooms and a rooftop space.

Nam Kha

46-48-50 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3823 8309

A swish restaurant from the Khai Silk family with aquatic décor, massive vases and a large staff eager to cater to your every whim. Set and a la carte menus available. Upstairs is the upmarket lounge bar, Dragon Lounge.

Nghi Xuan 5/9 Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3823 0699

Located down an alley just past Hai Ba Trung, Nghi Xuan features an attractive open first-floor and upstairs dining rooms with dark wood furniture and carved woodwork. The menu includes classic Hue staples, pricier crab and prawn spreads and an impressive array of wines and cocktails.

Quan an Ngon

138 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1

The long lunchtime queues tell the story:

Offering gulf cuisine from India, Thailand, Southern China, Northern Vietnam, New Orleans, Central America and more! Riverbank and Poolside dining. New and Old World wines, Imported Beers & Tropical Cocktails. Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Trung Toan, Ph Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 ext 706 or 707 Email: typhoonrestaurant@yahoo.com

RIVERSIDE RESTAURANT

street gourmet banh trang keo

Similar to banh ong la dua on the previous page, banh trang keo is also a dessert, but this one is disguised as lunch! Made from rice paper, shredded coconut and sugar, banh trang keo is a bit like a coconut sandwich—rice paper serves as the bread, shredded coconut as the filling and a generous spread of liquid sugar as the condiment. It's crafted by barbecuing two pieces of rice paper until

good food at low prices. More a food court than a restaurant, this has become a major favourite for its airy decor combined with cheap and tasty noodle, rice and other standard dishes.

Quan Nuong

29 Ton That Thiep, D1

A favourite with both locals and expats, this rooftop restaurant above the Temple Club offers an extensive menu of meat, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Try the beef wrapped around tasty melting cheese or deliciously fresh skewered prawns.

Temple Club

29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3829 9244

This high-end restaurant attached to an elegant lounge bar is a must-try for its art deco atmosphere as much as for its food. Mains go from around VND80,000 to VND150,000.

Wrap & Roll

62 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 4030

SA1–1, My Khanh 1, Nguyen Van Linh, D7

Attractive downtown venue that brings street-style food into air-conditioned and uncluttered comfort. Choose prewrapped appetisers such as the cha gio (spring rolls) or roll-it-yourself mains with ingredients like pickled shrimps, beef on sugar cane, fish, grilled eel and pork. 

bars & lounges

See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes

acoustic Bar

6E1 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D3 Tel: 3930 2239

the atmosphere is great with live music throughout the week and a live DJ every Monday.

M52 Bar

52 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 6726

Swanky, sparsely-appointed venue with reasonably priced drinks noted for packing a punch. Owners Annie and Ms. Van are never too busy to check on their patrons, and the busy bartenders are quick with a smile.

Number five Bar

44 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 6300

Number Five Bar is older than it looks, having formerly been located at 5 Ly Tu Trong. The bar attracts a regular clientele of established expats and owner Heinz Bronnimann still holds his almost-monthly golf tournaments.

Park lounge

Park Hyatt Hotel

2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234

Elegant lounge bar, with classic songs played every night by international musicians. The salubrious surroundings are matched by the range of the drinks, with vintage wines from US$6 to US$10 per glass. Tiger is US$4.50 a bottle.

Warapo plays every night except Monday from 8.30pm until late.

Samsara Club

131 Dong Khoi, D1

A laid-back cosmopolitan drinking and dance venue with comfy lounge chairs around low-lying tables and an island bar bedecked in extravagant white-feather decorations. Pink neon gives the joint a contemporary edge.

Voodoo lounge

92 Ho Tung Mau, D1

Voodoo paintings adorn the white walls at this small, attractive bar south of Sunwah Tower. A daily happy hour, plenty of stool space and a pair of dartboards make it a good place to grab a drink.

brewhouses

alderbrau

98 Nguyen Du, D1

Small brew house with an interior decorated with antique brewing miscellanea and an enclosed garden for outdoor swilling. Serves a range of beers crafted by a local brewmaster, including a very good Weiss beer. The kitchen dishes up a slate of sausages and other German fare, as well as Vietnamese dishes.

crispy. Next, a mixture of sugar and water is stirred in a pot and heated until it forms a thick, brown sauce. This sugary concoction is spread on the rice paper, giving it a slight glaze. Loads of shredded coconut are then placed between the rice paper, creating a sandwich that beats baloney on white bread any day of the week. Popular in southern Vietnam, banh trang keo costs 3,000 VND per piece.

A Volkswagen Bug tries to scale the wall outside this well-priced music venue popular with college-age Vietnamese and the occasional expat.

amber Room

59 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 6291 3686 info@theamberoom.com

A true London meets New York lounge, with chilled out tunes during the day and more funky vibes at night. A pleasant meeting place for the latest cocktails, a good coffee, a glass of wine, lunch or a refined evening snack.

Cafe latin

19-21 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 6363

A great venue for watching sports, with big screens showing cricket, Formula 1, rugby, Australian Rules, golf, football and more. One of the main venues for the Australian expatriate community.

Ciao lounge

2nd Floor, 74-76 Nguyen Hue, D1 Trendy and attractive lounge bar with a mixture of retro and modern decor and a pleasant atmosphere to boot. A great escape from central Saigon but quite touristy.

Cranberry Café & Pub

45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3914 0991

Upmarket,quiet lounge great for private parties. Brickwork and cranberry-red chairs speak to the bar’s name, with a cocktail range and Tigers in blissfully frosted mugs.

level 23

23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel

88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828

One of the best views of the city from this upmarket terrace bar and lounge.

Excellent cocktails don’t come cheap but

Q Bar

Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, D1

With low ceilings, intimate cubbyholes, colonial arches, gold paint, ultraviolet lighting and clubhouse beats, this is a bar that has a reputation for being a place to be seen. Great outdoor terrace and late-night indoor opening.

Saigon Saigon Bar

9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999

Popular bar usually packed out with tourists and business travellers searching for some delicious cocktails and a great view of the city skyline. Cuban band

Bia Tuoi Tiep

107 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 8619 www.biatuoitiepvn.com

Attractive, multi-story Czech beer hall decorated in heavy wood and outfitted with a few flat screen TVs tuned in to sports. Dark and blonde beers are available for 80,000 VND per litre—bring friends for the 2,750,000 VND 50 litre serving. Full menu of Vietnamese food from mussels to rabbit.

lion Brewery

11C Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 8514

Microbrewery featuring traditional Ger-

Catering

Nam QuaN

man brew technology and German fare like pork knucle and wurst. Good spot to meet friends and enjoy a hearty meal and a whole lot of beer.

nightclubs

bounce

Top fl, Parkson Plaza

35bis-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1

High-end hip-hop venue with bottle service and a floor plan that’s uncharacteristically dancer-friendly for HCM City. Resident DJ Drew Tudose spearheads music, and the club regularly brings in big name DJs, including Ministry of Sound.

Cage

3A Ton Duc Thang, D1

First time visitors often find Cage hard to find, but it is definitely worth the effort. Beautifully decorated with purple drapery and the odd cage, this bar offers a good mix of lounging and dancing. Often has live music and DJ's.

lush

2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 2496

A large and lavishly decorated bar and club that gets packed to the brim on weekends. Good DJs playing the latest in beat-based music and the city’s beautiful people add to the sights and sounds. It’s on-par with Western clubs in both ambience and drinks prices.

Velvet Bar

26 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1 Hip-hop and Viet trance club with both bottle service and bottle beer that isn’t prohibitively expensive. Circular center bar is ringed with tables, and VIP areas and sofa seating line the walls.

cafes

Bobby Brewer’s

45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4090

70 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3821 8100

86 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 6299 1990 www.bobbybrewers.com

This is an attractive fast-food style coffee shop with friendly staff and good lattes.

All the coffee is roasted on the premises and there are comfortable couches and travellers aplenty making it chilled place to hang out. 

Centro Caffe & Ristorante

11-13 Lam Son Square, D1, 31 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 & 6 Thai Van Lung, D1

This is home of Illy coffee in Vietnam. Offers modern and traditional Italian cuisines in three central locations with lunchtime set menus and regular wine tasting evenings. Good spot for business coffee meetings.

Cafe Terrace

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1

This funky café is frequented by trendy types attracted by the leather lounges, outdoor terrace and 52 non-alcoholic fruit concotions.

Coffee Bean & Tea leaf

94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5

Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, D1

International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells fresh-roasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea.

la fenetre Soleil

2nd Fl, 135 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 5209

Walking up the dank and dirty staircase leading up from Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, you’d never guess that a Parisian style shabby chic hideaway lies in wait. With chandeliers, scatter cushions and fresh flowers it is a perfect spot to chill out over coffee, juice or snacks like muffins and cakes.

Mojo

88 Dong Khoi, D1 A top-end cafe pulling in a mix of tourists and upper-class Saigonese. Boasts an

attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Sip on cappuccinos, frappuccinos and all sorts of iced and hot creations. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

Nirvana

14Bis Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3910 0745

Pleasant retro-styled cafe with outdoor water features and welcome modern touches like free Wi-Fi. Live music at night.

X Cafe

58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142

Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet. Popular with local makers and shakers, has a great open-plan upstairs area and two outdoor terraces. Regular live music and home made ice cream.

Yoko

22A Nguyen Thi Dieu, D3 Tel: 3825 1901

Compact and popular music joint with a front entrance that opens up onto the makeshift stage. Frequented by Vietnamese, the nightly live music boasts a refreshingly eclectic range of Western styles, with most songs sung in English.

Zenta

41 Mac Dinh Chi, D3

A large, extravagant, kitsch cafe with several rooms resembling airport departure lounges. Customers, though, tend to gravitate to the more attractive outdoor terrace with its pond and waterfall-style water features.

icecream parlours

Bo Gia (The Godfather)

29 Ngo Duc Ke, D1

This Bo Gia branch (two more at 299 Nguyen Van Troi and 20 Ho Huan Nghiep) is smaller than most, but already does brisk lunch time trade with its

selection of ice creams (a whopping 26 flavours from VND24,000) and Vietnamese noodle and rice dishes. Great caphe sua da.

Ciao Cafe

40 Ngo Duc Ke, D1

With a number of branches downtown (21 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and 26 Tran Cao Van, among others), this popular café offers a mixture of food, drinks and books. Ciao boasts 18 ice cream specials, also does crepes, sodas and shakes.

fanny ce Cream

29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 1633

Tranquil open-terraced heaven for ice-cream lovers. Menu contains fresh fruit, ice cream, sherbets and sorbets (coconut, caramel and Bailey’s ice-cream and mango sorbet are standouts). All you can eat first Friday of the month. Open 9 am to 11pm.

future Sense

284/9 Nguyen Trong Tuyen, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 6099

Ice cream home delivery service featuring banana-on a stick, Ola premium ice cream and frozen yoghurt and I’sa ice-cream, all produced with European technology and imported ingredients.

New Zealand Natural 3rd Floor, Parkson Department Store 39 – 45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 4th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan 1st Floor, Saigon Superbowl, 843 Truong Son, Tan Binh www.newzealandnatural.com

The town’s most visible ice cream brand with exotic flavours ranging from chocolate ecstasy, fruits of the forest and boysenberry dream for VND20,000 a scoop. Hokey Pokey (vanilla) is a real delight. Also has kiosks in Diamond Plaza and Saigon Superbowl.

• Great Aussie meat pie

• Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner in our restaurant upstairs, with

50 Pasteur, D1 - Tel: 3825 1311

54 Phan Boi Chau, Phuong Ben Thanh, D1

• rolls •

Cuon Diep (Mustard leaf roll with shrimp, pork, noodle) 18

Banh Nam (Rice flour sheet with ground pork, shrimp) 28

Banh Uot Thit (Barbecued pork wrapped in rice flour sheet) 30

Cha Gio (Fried spring roll) 45

• noodles & noodle soup •

Bun Thit Nuong (Rice noodles with barbecued pork) 32

Bun Heo Nac (Hue noodle soup with pork tenderloin) 37

Bun Hen (Rice noodles with baby clamlett) 37

Bun Cua (Rice noodles with crab mousse) 40

Bun Gio Heo, Bo & Cha (Hue noodle soup with pig trotter, beef & sausage) 40

Bun Dac Biet (Tib’s special spicy Hue noodle soup) 43

• specials •

Goi Mit (Young jackfruit salad with sesame rice paper) 38

Thit Heo Luoc Mam Nem (Steamed pork served with rice paper, noodles, herbs) 38

Bo Nhung Dam (Beef fondue served with rice paper, noodles & herbs) 110

• rice •

Com Hen (Hue baby clam rice) 37

Chao Tom Cua (Crab & prawn mousse congee) 37

Chao Nam Hai San (Mushroom & seafood congee) 37

Com Sen (Rice tossed with lotus seeds, shrimp, chicken) 50

• vegetarian •

Cuon Roi (Crispy rice paper with potato, bean curd, vegetable) 14

Banh Uot Cuon (Vegetables & tofu in steamed rice flour sheet) 28

Banh Beo (Tiny rice pancake with ground bean curd) 28

Bun Cha Gio (Rice noodle with fried spring roll) 32

Goi Mit (Young jackfruit salad) 38

• dessert •

Che Dau Van (Sweet bean pudding) 15

Che Mon (Sweet taro pudding) 15

Banh Flan (Crème caramel) 18

Che Sen Boc Nhan (Lotus seed & longan in light syrup) 25

• fresh fruit juice •

Dua Tuoi (Coconut juice) 15

Soda Chanh (Ice soda lime) 20

Thap Cam (Mixed fruit juice) 26

Rise of

The Urban Independents

Tops by Kon Heo , Mai’s Dog M a Bottoms by Mai’s Hats by Dog M a

Photography – Fre D Wissin K

Concept and s tyling – Dave Ma C Millan

Modeled by Cons Tan C e, Jenny, aD a M , Jor D ane

Mai’s – 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q.1 Kon Heo – 32 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q. Binh Thanh Dog M a – 64 n go Duc Ke, Q.1

fashion scout

accessories

Cleo-Pearls

30 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: +848 7444 831 or 091 3587 690

Jewellery designer Birgit Maier operates

Cleo-Pearls from her home, specialising in necklaces, bracelets, earrings, key holders and bag accessories. All pieces created with gemstones, fresh water pearls and beads. Open Mon / Wed / Fri 9.00 - 12.00 or call to organise a time to visit. Closed during school holidays.

Coconut

Mac Thi Buoi, D1

Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk & embroidered to the brim, they aren’t cheap (from US$30) but they are unique & perfect for both day & night.

Creation

105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429

A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (US$30 up), tailor-made silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor. Prices start from US$65 for an ao dai with simple embroidery to over US$200.

Deanh Jewellery

Eden Mall, 106 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3827 6039

Friendly English-speaking jewellery store with a gorgeous selection of gold accessories imported from Turkey and Italy. Also has a ready selection of simple ring designs to set your precious stones in.

Dr. Marten’s

173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710

Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. The sandals go for VND1.75 million. The store also stocks clothes by Replay, including snazzy belts, as well as Kappa tracksuit tops which look topnotch and go for just over VND1 million.

Hoang Tay

121 Nguyen Trai, D1

Stocks work shoes for men, apparently made with leather from Singapore. Prices start from VND1.1 million and VND750,000 for sandals. There’s also a small collection of leather belts and wallets.

ipa-Nima

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai & 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652

Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turn designer, producing eclectic and eyecatching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

J. Silver

803 Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5411 1188

Make a statement without being ostentatious with handcrafted silver jewellery from the boutique store. Expect big, interesting pieces which are simple yet glamorous.

lovely lien Jewellery

20 Le Loi, D1

A small and unassuming jewellery store with beautiful and reasonably-priced necklaces, bracelets and earrings. You can also bring your own precious stones or ask the designers to make something unique for you. A three-row cultured pearl choker costs around US$85.

Mai O Mai

Mantra

84 Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3915 1473 www.mantravietnam.com

The ever evolving anupa collection consists of leather bags & boxes, jewellery & scarves. Each piece is carefully made from the highest quality fabrics. All accessories are bespoke so be sure you will not see someone wearing the same piece. Simple, elegant designs suitable for the luxury user for all occasions. Leather accessories start from USD40+. Available for men and women.

Star Polo

97B Nguyen Trai, D1

Locally made shoes with Australian leather for men and women as well as imported ones. Sizes from 38 to 42 for men, and from 34 to 40 for women.

TDC Swiss Watches

28ter B Mac Dinh Chi, D1

Well-known watch retailer specialising in the import of all things Swiss including Longines, Jacques Lemans and a vast collection of Swatch watches and straps. Swatch watches start at US$50, the same retail price as abroad. Has a second outlet on Dien Bien Phu.

Therese Jewellery

Sheraton Hotel, 88F Dong Khoi, D1 www.theresejewelry.com

Small, glitzy retail outlet. Sells everything from diamond earrings to gold and silver wedding rings. Of special note is the selection of jade Buddhas in varying sizes, with the larger ones costing US$250. The friendly staff speak excellent English.

Tombo

145 Dong Khoi, D1

Of all the embroidered and sequined bags, shoes and tit bits (or “Zakka” shops) that can be found in Dong Khoi, this shop’s has products that are prettier than most. Shoes can be custom-made and the sales staff are friendly.

Trung Tam Thuong Mai Saigon

4-6 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1

A fairly large shopping mall filled almost exclusively with jewellery stands selling anything from the downright kitsch to the sublime. A good place to change money.

active wear

airwaves

23 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2

One-stop surf shop selling its own brand of surfware. Also specialises in sun care products, ladies and mens swimwear, surfboards, skateboards and watches. Also with an outlet at Saigon Kitsch and Dogma at 43 Ton That Thiep, D1.

China Beach Surf Club

3rd Fl, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1

Stocks famous surf and surf-inspired brands like Reef, Rip Curl and men’s wear from Volcom. It has everything you’d need for a visit to the beach and more. There are string bikinis, tees, board shorts, caps and thongs, just to name a few.

Roxy and Quiksilver

3rd Fl, Parkson, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1

The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function. Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.

Volcom

2nd Fl, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

ready to wear

eR-Couture Boutique

43 Thao Dien, 2nd Floor, D2 Tel: 3744 2411

www.er-couture.com

erolskov@er-couture.com

Exclusive Scandinavian brand offering designer garments. Versatile fashion for women in European sizes 34-44. Each style is a limited edition and can be tailored to individual size, taste and occasion.

esprit

58 Dong Khoi, D1

Located at luxurious areas, expensive prices but keep you lupdated with getting the latest international collections. Also available on the 1st Fl of Diamond Plaza.

etam

188 Hai Ba Trung, D1

Famous all over the world with their French style. There’s a large range of beautiful shirts, t-shirts, dresses etc. Also available in Zen Plaza and Diamond Plaza.

Caro

2nd Fl Zen Plaza, 54-56 Nguyen Trai D1

Local designs and tailoring of elegant tops and Asian style dresses. Provide a range of both office and nightlife attire. Friendly staff helpful in finding outfits to suit.

Chle

4B2 Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 3912 0162

A boutique selling beautiful velvet and crushed silk items. Simple silk tops to dresses, beaded handmade necklaces and bracelets also available here.

Contraband

Parkson Plaza, 39 - 45 Le Thanh Ton, D1

New ready to wear brand for hip modern women. Range includes office-wear to night-wear. Each month Contraband updates collection with new international trends and styles.

Gaya Clothing

1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495

Located on the second floor of the Gaya boutique, this clothing shop sells a range of attractive colour-matching ladies’ garments by Cambodian designer Romyda Keth.

labella 85-87 Pasteur, D1

This three-storey shop will take care of all your wardrobe needs. First floor has affordable clothes, second floor matching shoes and bags and the third, lingerie, all well made and fashionable.

le Samedi

21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 5013

A women’s clothing boutique specialising in clothes imported mainly from Italy and France, from an Italian cocktail dress to a French chiffon skirt.

levi’s flagship Store 19–21 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3500 1501

The 320 square metre retail space spread over three levels offers the most comprehensive and exclusive collection of Levi’s bottoms, tops and accessories.

Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624

A favourite with expat ladies and fashionconscious locals, stocking clothes from simple tees and jeans, to evening wear.

Mattre

19 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 3412

Miss Sixty & energie

4C Dong Khoi St, D1 Tel: 3829 4007

A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets. Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic & imaginative designs to gorgeous hand-embroidered bags.

TBS Sports Centre

102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan

This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse.

1st Fl, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1

Local outlet of the Miss Sixty brand hugely favoured by Hollywood’s young starlets. Also stocks clothes from its men’s label, Energie.

Ngan

23 Ly Tu Trong, D1

The Ngan collection includes locally made, high quality evening gowns for women and a new line of men’s casual wear.

Nino Max

189B Hai Ba Trung, D1 A local popular brand of active-casualwear t-shirts, jeans and khakis. Local pricing. You can also find their other outlets in Zen Plaza and Diamond Plaza.

Orange 238 Pasteur, D3

Large selection of male & female t-shirts with funky, unique graphics for very reasonable prices. Also provide unique accessory pieces.

See By Harajuku 130 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 090 986 8622

Small, friendly store stocking both mens and women's street wear, channelling Japanese and Korean fashion trends. Bright and funky T-shirts and maxi dresses, as well as accessories and footwear. New stock every month.

Song 76D Le Thanh Ton & Eden Mall 106 Nguyen Hue D1 Offers ladies’ fashion designs by Valerie Gregori McKenzie, with a typical marichi evening dress, tops and hats.

This local men’s clothes shop has some funky tops & jeans for the adventurous, & western sizes are often available. Other store located on Hai Ba Trung & Ly Tu Trong.

Timberland Parkson, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual.

The emphasis is on muted tones and unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.

Valenciani

100 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Saigon Centre, D1 www.valenciani.com

Women's clothing store offering silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories. A second store is now located in Saigon Centre.

Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and

Verona By Way of Vietnam

Traveling theatre group TNT/ADG recently stopped in HCM City and Hanoi to introduce Romeo and Juliet to Vietnam. Thomas Maresca spoke to the producers and actors about the life of a wandering troupe and the sometimes surreal experience of staging classic theatre for new audiences. Photos by Fred Wissink.

William Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet is more than 400 years old, but the bard’s tale of star-cros’d lovers remains one of world theatre’s most popular dramas. And for Vietnam the venerable tragedy recently provided something new: a stop on the international theatre circuit.

Touring performances have been a rarity for the Vietnamese stage, but last month TNT Britain / American Drama Group Europe brought their production of the Shakespearean classic to Vietnam for eight perfor-

mances at the Ho Chi Minh City Drama Theatre and two more at Hanoi’s Opera House.

The acclaimed TNT /ADG troupe is on a 14-month odyssey that features stops all across Asia, a nine-country castle tour in Europe, visits to Costa Rica and Central America, and other global destinations.

The decision to perform for the first time in Vietnam came from Ohio-born producer Grantly Marshall, who helped found ADG in Munich more than 30 years ago. He was looking to

fill the space between their runs in Singapore and Japan, and Vietnam had been on his mind for a long time.

“I’d been hearing good things about the enthusiasm of Vietnam’s audiences and their interest in foreign cultures,” says Marshall.

The producer found a willing partner in local impresario Le Quy Duong. Duong spent 11 years in Australia as a playwright, producer and director, and another three in Hollywood. He returned to Vietnam

in 2005 and has been looking to expand the horizons of local theatre ever since.

Duong had staged English language co-productions and Vietnamese translations of works from Australian playwrights such as David Williamson and John Romeril, but Marshall’s offer was his biggest opportunity yet. He flew out to Berlin to meet Marshall and see a performance of Romeo and Juliet and agreed to help bring the production to Vietnam.

“We want to make Vietnam a destination for the performing arts,” says Duong. “My dream is that Vietnam will become an important part of the world art scene.”

Language Barriers

So how do you bring Englishlanguage theatre to Vietnam?

As a company that performs for international audiences, overcoming language barriers is a core element of ADG / TNT’s performance style. In Vietnam, simultaneous subtitles were projected above the stage, but there was also a physical expressiveness to the production that helps get the meaning across.

“We want it to be clear,” says Natalia Campbell, who plays the Nurse. “How we use our voices, how we use our bodies. We hope to show as much as we can physically. There’s always a lot of action and always music in our performances.”

In their version of Romeo and Juliet the swordfights were dramatically staged, and the comic bits played up for bawdy laughs—which is in keeping with the spirit of Shakespeare, who knew how to entertain both the groundlings in the pit and his upper-crust audiences. The production also included sung interludes and film-like scoring at dramatic moments.

A Versatile Troupe

For Duong, Romeo and Juliet was not only a chance for Vietnamese audiences to be exposed to English-language theatre, but also a chance for the country’s actors and directors to see a

professional touring company at work and to acquire new skills.

“It’s a good opportunity for practitioners to approach and witness one of the ways of making theatre, because these actors do everything,” he says.

The six-member cast of Romeo and Juliet is not an ordinary theatre troupe. They arrived in Vietnam with only a single technician and their producer, Marshall. Each actor is required to play multiple roles, requiring some incredibly quick changes (“Velcro is our friend,” jokes Richard Ede, who plays Friar Laurence, Tybalt and others).

Actors are responsible for their makeup, changing the sets dur-

As a company that performs for international audiences, overcoming language barriers is a core element

yard of someone’s house.”

The quality of the production is remarkable considering the less-than-ideal circumstances the group faces constantly moving from one new location to the next—different theatres, countries, languages, food. Long-term traveling is difficult enough, without the pressures of putting on a show every night (“Dying every day for 14 months,” as Dan Wilder, Romeo, puts it.

“Sometimes twice a day.”)

Of course traveling the world strongly appeals to some, but it requires a special attitude. “Not everyone is suited,” says Clodfelter. “You have to have stamina to work with us.”

“You need to have that traveling spirit,” adds Marshall, the producer. “We’re not hurting for actors at casting calls, but being on the road all the time is hard. You have to want to do it.”

Vietnam: Emerging Cultural Destination?

ing the performance, and a host of other tasks required to stage a successful show.

Playing multiple characters is not a new phenomenon, says Richard Clodfelter (Father Capulet), an American who has been with ADG since 1986. “In Shakespeare’s time they would take a smaller number of actors with them when they toured away from their home at the Globe Theatre.”

Their staging is also minimal and almost infinitely adaptable.

For this version of Romeo and Juliet the set is little more than a few painted cubes, light scaffolding and drop cloths. Before the audience’s eyes, these are transformed into everything from Juliet’s balcony to the bier on which her sleeping body lies in the tragic final scene.

“We travel light,” says Clodfelter. “We’re able to perform in the biggest national arts centre, small villages, even the court-

Notably, this production of Romeo and Juliet was marketed and targeted not primarily to expats, but to Vietnamese audiences. And in some ways the audience seemed to treat the opening performance like a spectacle rather than a serious work of theatre—many in the crowd were firing away on cell phones and flashing digital cameras throughout the performance. “It was a bit surreal,” said Rachel Lynes (Juliet).

There’s obviously a way to go for Vietnam to emerge as a destination for touring artists, actors, and musicians, but there’s reason for optimism. The month of May, for instance, also saw appearances from U.S.based multiple Grammy awardwinning band Ozomatli, and Lexie Lee, a dancehall singer from Jamaica.

Strict government oversight of content, and a lack of promoters and suitable venues are going to remain hurdles for international artists for some time to come, but each venture marks a potential step forward. Let’s hope the show will go on.

girl + ThE MaChiNe

During her tenure in Hanoi, Girl + the Machine frontwoman Jackie Liew is introducing her band’s electro-rock sound to Vietnam. alison lapp speaks to Liew about the concept that drives the machine and the message it’s trying to broadcast.

Amid the airy chords of Girl + the Machine’s closing song at last month’s Mines Advisory Group (MAG) benefit in Hanoi, tears welled in lead vocalist Jackie Liew’s eyes. The fusion of the song’s content about the hardships of war with the concert’s aim to fundraise for the largest nonmilitary landmine clearing organisation in Vietnam created a moment during which a complicated social issue struck home and became a visceral experience for Liew.

Creating such moments is as natural as picking up a guitar for Girl + the Machine. Since forming in 2004, the electro-rock band has been looking for ways to turn their beliefs into art and make social consciousness sing.

At the April 25 MAG International Music Festival, put on by Hanoi’s Minsk Club and the Club for Arts and Music Appreciation (CAMA), the band opened with an ambient piece to kick off their set of pop rock punctuated by a few signature spacey numbers.

That eclectic mix of sounds, Liew says, makes it difficult to categorise Girl + the Machine and has more regularly earned the band spots at artistic and experimental festivals, rather than at standard rock shows.

“Some critics call us ‘pedal gazers,’” says Liew. “We use a lot of electricity and effects, so our eyes are always on our guitar pedals.”

The Malaysian-born Canadian turned her solo project into a full-fledged band when she answered an ad placed by three musicians and sold them on her Girl + the Machine concept.

“I’m constantly on my laptop,” she says. “I just noticed

that for everything—my music, my line drawings, my photography—I have to go through a machine to create.”

Liew (the girl) and her backup musicians (the machine) have developed a performance style she calls a “psychotropic audio-visual circus.” A typical show might incorporate light and video projections to enhance the sound, as well as band members’ photos of Asia to educate audiences.

relief concert, a Kenyan Nyumbani Orphanage fundraiser and York University's Faculty of Environmental Studies Planning Department research fundraiser.

Liew says her own multicultural background spurred her interest in playing with cultural expectations through music, as well as in making her work accessible to a wide international audience. To that end, she sings in Mandarin, Cantonese, Japanese and English and performs

Through indirect melding of music and message, Girl + the Machine hopes to reach people without sounding “too preachy”

“People are enjoying our music, but also unconsciously seeing conditions in places they haven’t been,” Liew says. Through indirect melding of music and message, Girl + the Machine hopes to reach people, she adds, without sounding “too preachy.”

The song “Buddha Sleeping,” for example, explores the way daily routines can mask the “true self within us all,” but does so through its title, tonality and feel more than through lyrics, she explains.

The band’s commitment to discovering and supporting responsible causes has taken them to a number of other benefit shows, including York University's Osgoode HIV/AIDS benefit, a 2005 Southeast Asian tsunami

wearing modern adaptations of traditional costumes from throughout Asia.

Her move to Hanoi in September has helped her expand her cultural repertoire and explore the local music scene, she says. Her full band couldn’t fly out from Toronto for the MAG festival, so she went on stage with Hot Sky, a Hanoi act with whom she has become friendly. Living in Vietnam allows her to challenge a new audience’s ideas about culture, says Liew. “When in the East, I can be West, and in the West, I can be East,” she says. “In both places I give people a new perspective.”

Liew says she appreciates her new city because it helps reacquaint her with the Asia she left at 11 years of age. She is learn-

ing through the local people, with whom “you can just sit down and start a conversation, and you’ll know the whole story of the street in an hour,” and through expats like Laura Fontan and Diego Cortizas, owners of the fashion design company chula, where Liew gets all of her performance outfits. The band is planning a joint concert with flutist Ron Korb at the InterContinental Westlake as its next Hanoi event. They’re also looking forward to playing in HCM City and other Asian cities in the lead up to the fall release of their debut album from Toronto-based indie label Aporia Records.

Describing her music as “soundtrack-like,” Liew says she hopes to market pieces for use in television shows, films and commercials.

In the meantime, Liew and the rest of the band continue to promote their beliefs via a number of meaningful side projects. Liew turned the regular cooking lessons she was giving at an art gallery in Toronto into “Girl + the Kitchen,” a vegetarian cookbook featuring fusion recipes often displayed on heart-shaped beds of bean sprouts. Her bassist works for a homeless project in Canada and “gives to everyone on the street without question,” she says.

All of that is part of trying to quietly lead by example, she adds. “We don’t want to go up on stage and rock and then just say, ‘bye,’” says Liew. “We want to leave something behind.”

Check out Girl + the Machine online at www.girlandthemachine. com or stream the band's music at www.myspace.com/girlandthemachinemusic.

bookworm kitchen tales

film buff

Star Trek, Up, State of Play

Star Trek

Directed by J.J. Abrams

Starring Chris Pine, Zachary Quinto, leonard Nimoy, eric Bana, Winona Ryder

Paramount Pictures

When a half-crazed captain on a mission of retribution begins a universal war to annihilate every civilised world, the young crew of the USS Enterprise must find a way to save the galaxy for the first time. The eleventh and most expensive film in the sci-fi series to date, Star Trek focuses on the origins of two iconic characters: Captain James T. Kirk and Lieutenant Spock. Kirk, played by Chris Pine, starts out as a thrill-seeking farm boy from the cornfields of Iowa, while in the Vulcan desert, Spock is raised in a logicgrounded society that rejects all emotion. The two opposing personalities are destined to be drawn together in a powerful partnership.

The film’s production was shrouded in secrecy; more than 10 fake titles were devised to keep the finished work confidential. Aside from Leonard Nimoy, who will reprise his role as Spock for the last time, this instalment is the first in the franchise not to feature the original cast as the series characters.

Up Directed by Pete Docter and Bob Peterson

Starring Christopher Plummer, edward asner

Pixar

Co-directors Bob Peterson and Pete Docter of Monsters Inc. and Toy Story are back with another comedy-adventure and the first Pixar-animated film to be rendered in Disney Digital 3-D format. The story follows the adventure of 78-year-old balloon salesman Carl Fredricksen, who sets out to fulfill his lifelong dream of flying to the wilds of South America. Carl, a widower who gets around with a tripod cane, decides to tie thousands of balloons to his home and escape for paradise. After a successful lift off, Carl discovers he is not alone, as optimistic 8-year-old Russell, armed with a backpack and living room camping experience, has unwittingly come along for the ride. The two opposite characters find themselves on a thrilling journey through the air and the Venezuelan jungle. Voiced by 5-time Golden Globe winner Edward Asner, and Emmy award winner Christopher Plummer, the film opened at the 62nd annual Cannes Film Festival this year.

State of Play

Directed by Kevin MacDonald

Starring: Russell Crowe, Ben affleck, Rachel Mcadams, Helen Mirren, Jason Bateman

Universal Pictures

When a petty thief is gunned down in an alley and a congressman’s research assistant/ mistress is killed in a subway incident, Cal McAffrey, a grizzled, old-school newspaper journalist played by Oscar-winner Russell Crowe, teams up with a rookie reporter to investigate the two seemingly unrelated deaths. Under pressure to reveal sensational details of the high-profile congressman’s personal life to the public, Cal and Della Frye (Rachel McAdams) doggedly follow the thread of clues pointing to murder and a conspiracy involving the nation’s most promising political and corporate figures.

Based on a 6-hour mini-series by the same name, State of Play was initially supposed to reunite Brad Pitt and Edward Norton for the first time since Fight Club but both actors were forced to pull out of the project and were replaced with Russell Crowe and Ben Affleck. The conspiracy thriller opened its first week at number two at the U.S. box office.

cinema listings

G: Galaxy

l: Lottecinema

M: Megastar

T: Thang Long

OPeN NG JUNe 5

Hannah Montana C, M, T

Cast: Miley Cyrus, Billy Ray Cyrus

Director: Peter Chelsom

The Brothers Bloom l

Cast: Rachel Weisz, Adrien Brody, Mark Ruffalo

Director: Rian Johnson

State Of Play l

Cast: Russell Crowe, Rachel McAdams, Ben Affleck

Director: Kevin Macdonald

OPeN NG JUNe 12

Crank: High Voltage M

Cast: Jason Statham, Amy Smart, Clifton Collins Jr.

Director: Mark Neveldine, Brian Taylor

Hannah Montana l

Cast: Miley Cyrus, Billy Ray Cyrus

Director: Peter Chelsom

OPeN NG JUNe 19

State Of Play M, T

Cast: Russell Crowe, Rachel McAdams, Ben Affleck

Director: Kevin Macdonald

Night a The Museum: Battle Of

The Smithsonian l

Cast: Amy Adams, Ben Stiller, Robin Williams

Director: Shawn Levy

Drag Me To Hell T

Cast: Alison Lohman, Justin Long

Director: Sam Raimi

OPeN NG JUNe 26

Night a The Museum: Battle Of

The Smithsonian M, C, T

Cast: Amy Adams, Ben Stiller, Robin Williams

Director: Shawn Levy

fighting M

Cast: Channing Tatum, Terrence Howard

Director: Dito Montiel

Up l, G

Cast: Christopher Plummer, Jordan Nagai, Edward Asner

Director: Pete Docter, Bob Peterson

angels and Demons l

Cast: Tom Hanks, Ewan McGregor, Ayelet Zurer, Stellan Skarsgård

Director: Ron Howard

Cooking isn't always pretty business. AsiaLIFE peeks into the kitchen with narratives from the restaurant world.

Bill Buford

When Bill Buford met Mario Batali at a dinner party, the celebrity chef not only saved his roast, he inspired the journalist to undergo a 3-month stint in Batali’s boot camp kitchen at Babbo. Buford’s resulting adventures are narrated in Heat: An Amateur's Adventures as Kitchen Slave, Line Cook, Pasta-Maker, and Apprentice to a Dante-Quoting Butcher in Tuscany. Buford shares his humorous and passionate investigation into the kitchen of a 3-star restaurant, the secrets of Italian cooking and the art of butchering. Tantrums by chef-gods Batali and Marco Pierre White are recounted in glorious detail, and as Buford learns his way around the kitchen, he endures numerous humiliations and injuries under the discriminating eyes of Batali’s chefs. However, he eventually satisfies his lust for cooking experience and along the way goes from a humble walking grease-fire into a “kitchen insider.”

Kitchen Confidential

Anthony Bourdain Bloomsbury

Chef Anthony Bourdain brings readers the brutal truth behind elegant food with Kitchen Confidential, a rollercoaster narrative following Bourdain’s life in the dirty world of fine dining: from his first oyster in France to his maturation as ex-

ecutive Chef at New York’s Les Halles restaurant. Stuffed with gossipy bits, horror stories and tales of sex, drugs and disgusting practices, Bourdain dishes readers a taste of life as a chef and restaurateur while offering a slew of tips for diners. The book also includes a chapter on how to cook like a professional and what cooking gadgets everyone should have in their kitchen. Anthony Bourdain is host of the popular TV show “No Reservations.”

Down and Out in london and Paris

George Orwell Penguin Orwell’s 1933 debut book opens with a scene at the Rue du Coq d’Or in Paris and soon exposes readers to the greasy inner workings of hotel and restaurant kitchens in Paris, where he works as a dishwasher while living among the poor. Colourful characters abound in Orwell’s adventures at the shockingly filthy, 110-degree kitchen of “Hotel X.” In describing the manner of a maitre d’hotel who has just crudely chastised a waiter, he writes: “Then he entered the dining room and sailed across it, dish in hand, graceful as a swan. Ten seconds later he was bowing reverently to a customer. And you could not help thinking…that the customer was put to shame by having such an aristocrat to serve him.” The novel, originally titled “A Scullions Diary,” was twice rejected by publishers. Orwell’s vivid portrayal of urban poverty and the food industry is still a favourite with readers and chefs everywhere.

The Song is You

Arthur Phillips

Random House

Julian Donahue is a man dependent on his iPod, shuffling aimlessly through life as a middle-aged commercial director at the end of a broken marriage. But he’s shaken from his torpor by the voice of upand-coming Irish singer Cait O’Dwyer after watching her band perform in a Brooklyn bar. Julian becomes fascinated with Cait and begins offering guidance and following her growing career from the fringes of digital technology. Soon Cait finds herself responding to his advice. Through emails, text messages and cryptic lyrics, the two begin a delicate courtship as Julian must eventually choose between the remnants of his marriage and his persistent longing for both intimacy and oblivion. The novel focuses on contemporary connections and mid-life quandaries focused through the prism of music. Award-winning author of Prague, Arthur Phillips has been called “one of the best writers in America” by the Washington Post.

eat Sleep Sit

Kaoru Nonomura Kodansha Int’l.

At 30, Japanese designer Kaoru Nonomura left his family and his job behind to undergo severe ascetic training in one of Japan’s most rigorous Zen temples, Eiheiji. Eat Sleep Sit, which became a bestseller in Japan, is a rare first-person account of the all-consuming preparation that Soto Zen monks endure. Nonomura meticulously details how he watched and endured constant beatings and threats,

and how he suffered exhaustion, hunger, endless procedures, chores, studies, hours of sitting and yet more beatings in his quest for spiritual growth. With time, Nonomura’s attitude changes towards the brutality he experiences, and he begins to value his life at Eiheiji. After a year, Nonomura leaves the temple and returns to his life as a designer.

Stealing MySpace

Julia Angwin Random House For a website that attained such dizzying heights in the virtual world, MySpace was built on surprisingly little. Wall Street Journal columnist Julia Angwin takes readers on a journey from founders Chris DeWolfe and Tom Anderson’s idea of building a rip-off of social networking website Friendster to the rapid growth of MySpace from its humble roots in the Los Angeles club scene. The story continues into MySpace’s heyday as the number one website in America, documenting how it managed to gross over 40 billion views per day. Angwin chronicles the waning popularity of MySpace that followed its $600-million purchase by media icon Rupert Murdoch, with whom the founders frequently clashed. As the young entrepreneurs struggle to regain control over the website, which is already under attack from hackers and lawyers, the upstart Facebook team begins nipping at their heels. Stealing MySpace is peppered throughout with a cast of engrossing personalities that helped create what has sometimes been called “the Web’s greatest accident.”

Heat

Knopf

C: Cinebox

By Karen Tong & Remy Argyle

Peter Bjorn and John

living Thing

1/2

(Wichita, Parasol Records, Almost Gold Recordings)

Swedish indie pop trio Peter Bjorn and John continue with delightful electronica pop music on Living Things. Since releasing successful song “Young Folks”, the band has gained international fame, but on this latest album they’ve moved in a more creative, quirky direction, especially with the song “Lay It Down”. Their other single, “Nothing To Worry About”, is Living Thing’s strongest; however, the album is bound to linger under the shadow of 2006’s Writer’s Block and its international pop hit.

Wilco

Wilco (The album)

(Nonesuch)

American alternative/ indie rock band Wilco releases an outstanding sixth studio album, consistently refreshing and laced throughout with the band’s diverse sound. The lyrics stir you as the band pairs songs about relationships with somewhat experimental instrumentals, especially on the track “Bull Black Nova”. Feist joins in for their first collaboration on “You and I”. The new Wilco album may take several listens, but it will surely draw you in.

Green Day

21st Century

Breakdown

(Reprise Records)

Green Day creates another rock opera similar to its previous album American Idiot. The album in its entirety flows well, with familiar anti-authority themes that the band crafts by following the lives of a young couple in America. If you liked American Idiot, you will probably love the new album. The songs contain an ambition that aims for social consciousness, but they're safer than Green Day’s earlier creations. Singles worth checking out are “21 Guns” and “Know Your Enemy”.

The Decemberists

Hazards of love

(Capitol Records)

The Decemberists live up to their reputations as indie raconteurs with their fifth studio album, Hazards of Love, a concept album rooted in folk tradition. Even with minimal orchestration relative to previous releases, the album feels layered and textural; the storytelling, as well, contributes to the tapestry of love and cunning. Twangy ballads are reminiscent of Her Majesty the Decemeberists, but heavier electric numbers like “A Bower Scene” and “The Abduction of Margaret” seem extensions of explorations built on The Crane Wife’s “When the War Came.”

Hot Shot Single

“Welcome to england” Tori Amos

Universal Republic Records

The first single from newly independent Tori Amos is imbued with surprising pop sensibility with its fuzzy drumpunctuated intro and bridge and guitar-laced verses. That “Welcome to England” will likely appeal to so broad an audience is no insult, however, the track contains the best of Amos’ piano arrangements, swooning vocals and quixotic lyrics. Dig the dingy, Mephistophelean conversation that permeates the song.

Upcoming Releases

Paolo Nutini – Sunny Side Up Dave Matthews Band – Whiskey And The Groogrux King eels – Hombre Lobo

Black eyed Peas – The E.N.D. Dirty Projectors – Bitte Orca

Kasabian – West Ryder Pauper Lunatic Asylum

Sonic Youth – The Eternal

The Mars Volt – Octahedron

Regina Spektor – Far

classes

Creative Writing Classes

Tel: 090 448 2957 kate_orson@hotmail.com

Writer Kate Orson teaches creative writing courses for fiction, non-fiction and travel writing. Beginners and experienced writers are welcome. Call or email to find out about the latest courses.

Helene Kling Painting 513 An Binh, Street 12, D2 helene_kling@yahoo.com

French painter Helene holds classes in oil painting at her beautiful river-side home on Tuesday, Thursday and Friday’s between 8.00am and 1.00pm for adults and Monday and Friday afternoons between 3.00 and 6.00pm for children.

Helene Hagemans fine art Tel: 3898 6835 or 0939 666 849 www.helenehagemansfineart.com

Art consultancy offering art discovery tours; project management for art collections; art acquisition for collection and investment; commissioned work for site specific projects; on-site presentations, delivery and installation; documentation and cataloguing of art works; exhibitions and curatorial services.

Overlandclub

36bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Tel: 3820 9734 www.geckoboxes.com

The Japanese owner of this arts school specialises in traditional Vietnamese pottery. Students can also create an ao dai from scratch, learn how to play Vietnamese folk instruments and take a cooking class.

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch

Classes are held at Alpha Gallery and are taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques. The classes are six-weeks long and are for adults and children.

bookshops

Bookazine

28 Dong Khoi, D1

A number of foreign magazines such as Newsweek and Time plus a selection of local magazines and books, some of antiquity, hoarded by the knowledgeable owner.

fahasa

40 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3822 5796

Large, busy and well-stocked book store on three levels. Plenty of interesting reading matter in English, French and Chinese, along with the ubiquitous Vietnamese books. Probably your best bet to find current titles in both fiction and non-fiction.

Second-hand Books

179 & 185 Pham Ngu Lao, D1

Two streetside bookstores that act as the unofficial ‘head offices’ of the street booksellers in the backpackers’ area. Sell a good selection of second-hand books with many travellers’ favourites. Expect Dan Brown in multiple languages. Accepts book exchange.

Xuan Thu Bookshop

185 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 4670

Large, busy bookshop principally aimed at ¬the local market but with some English material plus maps and dictionaries. Also the place to go for ELT resources and textbooks.

cinemas

Bobby Brewer’s Movie lounge

45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220

86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com

Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule.

Cinebox

212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610

240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425

Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

Diamond Plaza Cinema

13th floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897

Cinema with three theatres that shows films both in their original language and dubbed into Vietnamese.

Galaxy Cinema

116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533

Large, modern cinema which shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

iDeCaf

31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451

French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

lotte Cinema

Level 3, Lotte Mart, D7 Tel: 3775 2520

Six-theatre cinema with four-way sound system. Houses a luxury theatre called Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas

Megastar

Level 7, Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong Street, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388

State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles. Entry through Parkson department store.

galleries

Blue Space Contemporary arts Center

97A Pho Duc Chinh St, D1 Tel: 3821 3695

www.bluespacegallery.com

Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

Duc Minh Gallery

31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498

Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, this private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more 1,000 pieces, the work ranges from traditional to contemporary.

Ho Chi Minh City fine arts Museum

97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 Institution housing both contemporary and traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Third floor contains pieces dating from as early as the 7th century and includes Vietnamese antiques and art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

Mai’s Gallery 16 Nguyen Hue, D1 www.maisgallery.com

Featuring the work of a number of different artists, Mai’s is one of the few galleries in town featuring both contemporary Vietnamese and foreign art. Exhibitions change regularly – check website for details.

Particular Gallery

Kim Do Business Center, 3rd Floor 123 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 8330 www.particulargallery.com

Part of the vietnamartist.com family which serves as the official online gallery for a number of painters including Nguyen Thanh Binh. Founder Tran Thi has been one of the Saigon’s leading art dealers for seven years. Extensive website showcases available paintings.

TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com

Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

school's out for summer

X Rock’s Rock Climbing Basics

Where: X Rock, 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192

When: Weekdays and weekends

Kids can enjoy unlimited climbing all day with X Rock’s student discount and special group rates. X Rock instructors will help beginners learn proper use of belay equipment, knot-tying and basic top rope climbing. Also on the premises of Sieu Thi Binh Trung in District 2 is a swimming pool, arcade room and garden restaurant perfect for day excursions and birthday parties. Daily rates are $15 for adults and $13 for students.

Summer vacation means the city’s students have lots of time on their hands. AsiaLIFE rounds up some organised activities to keep kids off the couch and prevent parents from pulling out their hair.

Taekwondo Classes

Where: An Phu Taekwondo Club, BP compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Jungdokwan Riverside Taekwondo Club, Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 0903 918149

When: Tuesday, Thursday and Friday afternoons. Call for times and membership information.

Kids ages 7 to 12 can learn Korean Taekwondo from a master 6th Dan black belt in Taekwondo Jungdokwan with his professional team. Class sizes range from five to 20 students. Member prices start at $8 per hour, (non-residents of BP-compound pay an additional $25). There is a discount for booking multiple classes ahead of time.

Saigon Pony Club Summer Clinic

Where: Lane 42, Le Van Thinh Street, D2. Tel: 091 373 3360

When: Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays from 8.30 to 11.30am for the first two weeks of July and all of August.

The pony clinic is ideal for both new and experienced riders interested in learning or advancing their skills. Children 6 years and up will learn how to prepare their mounts for each day's 45-minute riding lesson, plus the basics of pony theory, grooming and putting the bridle and saddle on the pony. Students may attend based on their availability. There are also group lessons for four to six riders, year round. The cost is 500,000 VND/morning.

DanCenter Kids Summer Dance Workshops

Where: 46/2 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh District Tel: 3840 6974

When: 3 to 4.30pm from Monday to Friday

This year’s DanCenter workshops will be themed on the “High School Musical” films. In addition to dance steps and choreography, children will learn something different every day; including mime, stage makeup, costume and dance history. Parents with children ages 7 and older can enrol them for six week long sessions over the summer. Fees are $55 per week.

SaigonSports Academy Summer Camps

Where: Parklands Country Club and Saigon South International School When: Monday through Friday, mid-June through mid-August

The coaches from SaigonSports Academy are running weeklong tennis, football and multi-sports summer camps for kids ages 4 to 18. Tennis ($250/wk) and football ($200/wk) camps incorporate morning training and drills, lunchtime activities and afternoon games and matchplay. During the multi-sports camp ($200/wk), kids will keep fit playing tennis, football, basketball, ultimate Frisbee, field hockey and more. SaigonSports Academy is also following up their successful free Saturday training at Saigon South International School with a soon-to-be-announced summer camp, as well. Email Greg Vanderford at greg@saigonsportsacademy.com for more information and a detailed list of activities.

Performing Arts Academy of HCMC Music Lessons

Where: Saigon South International School, Saigon South Parkway, D7 Tel: 903390675

When: 1 to 4pm from Monday to Friday, June 15 to July 3

According to its mission statement, the Performing Arts Academy of HCMC is dedicated to “creating a learning environment that provides the highest order of music education at every level.” This summer, they’re offering a programme in Phu My Hung divided into three five-day sessions ($150/wk, $450 for 3 weeks), during each of which students will learn guitar/bass, drums, keyboard, piano, organ and recorder. The sessions also cover improvisation and composition and explore dance and vocal performance. The primary goal is to foster musical development to create independently motivated learners.

Nutrifort Kids Fitness Classes

NTFQ2 offers fun and motivating classes year round for kids in martial arts, circuit training, ballet and hip-hop. Martial arts classes teach kids ages 6 to 10 kung fu and kickboxing techniques and discipline. Sparring with the instructor is also included. Circuit training classes have kids ages 6 to 12 using fitness balls, platforms, jump ropes and hula hoops. Ballet classes offer kids ages 5 to 10 ways to perfect balance and muscle control. Hip-hop classes teach kids ages 7 to 12 dance steps to hip-hop music, culminating in a performance for parents. The classes are free for members, $15 for non-members.

Tips for Effective Childhood Development

English is a very difficult subject for my daughter, and I try to encourage her by spending time going over spelling. I have also found various computer programmes that focus on word games, which she enjoys. However, her last report card showed only slight improvement. I did praise her for her efforts, but was a bit disappointed in the report— I was hoping for a higher mark.

My son struggles with math, but came home with a perfect score in spelling. I wanted to give him praise that was justly due. I said to him, “You did very well and you are really smart!” His response was, “It was easy ‘cuz I’m good at it. Tell me the same thing about math!” It made me feel like the praise was ineffective.

activities

alpha Gallery

10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 3822 4946 Printmaking classes for both adults and children run by Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber. Six-week courses start with the basics and swiftly move students towards producing proofs and final prints from copper plates they have created. Freedom of expression is encouraged and other mediums are also explored.

Conservatory of Music

112 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 3841

The established training centre for professional musicians offers private piano and violin lessons to foreigners in the evenings.

Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com

Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000VND and 300,000VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student.

Rubba Duckies Swim School rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com

Parent and infant swim classes from six months upward. Water familiarisation classes in a group environment. Weekday mornings at Riverside, D2 (residents/ members only), the Somerset, D1 (everyone welcome) and at the APSC, D2 (residents/ members only). Saturday mornings at Riverside, D2 and Australian International School, D3.

Saigon Pony Club

Lane 42, Le Van Thinh St, D2 Tel: 09 1373 3360

Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies and horses. Lessons last 30 minutes and cost 200,000VND for kids from age five.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101 - 103 Khanh Hoi, D4

287A Nguyen Van Troi, D.Phu Nhuan

The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

Me Oi

1B Ton That Tung, D1

A small shop adjacent to the maternity hospital bursting at the seams with everything you need for your baby. Cloth ing, footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags and toys all at reasonable prices.

clothing

Children Planet 90 Vo Thi Sau, D.1

Mid to high-range prices for quality ap parel, imported material from Singapore. Offering from the age of 5 to 14 years old boy and girl.

Du lundi au Samedi

17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 1st Floor Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1

2nd Floor Parkson, 39 - 45 Le Thanh Ton, D1

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1

A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from new borns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding and pyjamas also kept in stock.

little anh –

41 Thao Dien, D2

A French brand and made in Vietnam, offering a wide selection of colourful, sim ply packaged and thoughtfully collated 'sets' of garments for girls and boys from newborn to ten years old. Lifestyle pieces also available include sleeping bags, bedroom accessories and bags.

- Rotten Reports

Dear Rotten Reports:

You did well to show support, giving encouragement and telling your child you applaud her efforts. However, don’t lose sight of the fact that the brain is a muscle that constantly grows and develops. A teacher’s judgment on a report or project is not an automatic conclusion of intelligence or ability; rather it is merely a marking point in the learning process. Often a teacher’s evaluation is based on a variety of projects, assignments and tests, from the beginning to the end of term. Obviously, your daughter’s growth spurt in English came somewhere between the middle to the end of term and her earlier efforts were included in this assessment. Don’t hesitate to talk to your daughter’s teacher to discuss further support and remember to revel in the growth. Your daughter is moving forward!

- Show Me Another Way

Dear SMAW:

Rather than doling out praise immediately, ask your child to talk to you, telling you about his process/experience. Getting feedback and information first allows the parent to give better directed praise or encouragement. For example, the child telling you they are good at spelling is actually telling you there was little effort. We all know you should praise the effort, right?

Telling a child they are really smart, instils a fixed mindset that intelligence is predetermined. You don’t want to arrest any growth by giving the finite, “You are smart” response. Rather, after listening to what the child says, you might respond by saying, “It seems you have a real gift for this. Let’s find ways to use it.” This way, you are encouraging the child to continue growth. Email any questions about your child's development to auntie-em@asialifehcmc.com

SaigonSports academy

An Phu and Phu My Hung General Inquiries: greg@saigonsportsacademy.com

Sports academy founded by Pro tennis coach currently offering tennis and football training to kids 4 to 18. Professional coaches integrate international concepts and systems to draw out athletes’ natural abilities.

Stagemagic 112 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 0903 145087 stage.magic@hotmail.com

Performance arts group for children 11 to 18, for which auditions are held to join in the two-hour sessions, held ten times over each of the three terms. Public performances are given at the end of each term. Contact Suzanne Dixon.

Tae Kwondo

BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, D2 Classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs US$30 for one month’s unlimited classes with a US$10 fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918149.

baby equipment

Baby 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, D.10 Tel: 3847 9597

A large store stocking a good range of baby needs, including toys, buggies, cots and bottles. Prices are reasonable.

Babyland

1st floor, Saigon Centre 65 Le Loi, D1

Quality products including car seats, buggies, prams and travel cots and a good selection of baby toys. Carries Avent bottles and sterilizer sets, and a small range of educational books. Prices are higher than the other places, but so is the quality.

Ninh Khuong

44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456

189 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 4312

220 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3920 3224 www.ninhkhuong.vn

Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing using 100% cotton. Newborn to ten years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Prices are reasonable.

Saigon Centre

1st floor, 65 Le Loi, D1

An excellent array of clothing and other assorted bits and bobs for children with some notable offerings such as Kangaroo, a small store stocking cotton clothing such as dresses, shirts and party attire, as well as clothing for expectant mothers.

education

aBC nternational School

28 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3930 3533 www.theabcschool.net

International school following the British National Curriculum from pre-school and primary Key Stages to IGCSE, AS and A levels. Has a broad spectrum of subjects to choose from. Good facilities and extra-curricular activities are on offer.

aCG international School

East West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234

www.acgedu.com

A member of the Academic Colleges Group network of International Schools. The campus is designed to international standards and caters for pre-school, kindergartern and primary age children. Internationally trained teachers.

australian nternational School

21 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3822 4992 www.aisvietnam.com

A highly selective school currently offering Australian NSW education for children from kindergarten to year 10.

Has an excellent range of extra-curricular activities and aims to foster cultural awareness. Campuses in both District 3 and An Phu.

British international School

www.bisvietnam.com

With campuses all over the city and expansion underway, BIS offers a mixture of both English and International curricula-based education alongside excellent facilities and extra-curricular activities. Senior students follow the IGCSE and IB programmes.

international School HCMC

649A Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100

www.ishcmc.com

One of 64 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School. Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through year 12. The school has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

Montessori nternational School

42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639

www.montessori.edu.vn

Montessori utilises an internationally recognised educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. Open to students eighteen months to six years old. A wide array of extra-curricular activities and summer programmes are on offer.

Renaissance international School

74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171

www.rissaigon.edu.vn

One of Vietnam’s international learning institutions offering a programme operating within the framework of the British system. RISS provide a high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment.

International Child Care Centres

Childcare with a smile!

•Children “learn through play”

•Indoor and outdoor play is key

•Positive, safe & child centered environment

•Well-planned program optimized for children’s development

1172 Thao Dien Compound

Thao Dien Ward, Ho Chi Minh City

phone +84 08 3744 60 76 fax +84 08 3744 60 75 www.smartkidsinfo.com

RMiT

702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369

Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

Saigon Kids Centre 104A Tran Quoc Toan, D3 Tel: 3932 5579

An Australian day-care centre for children aged between two and six years old. Offers a homely and warm environment for children to play and learn.

Saigon South nternational School

Saigon South Parkway, Tan Phong Ward, D7, Tel: 5413 0901

www.ssischool.org

An International school environment in a large campus offered to children from pre-school to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving an unique opportunities to learn.

Saigon Star international School

172 Nguyen Van Thu, D1, Tel: 3822 0341

www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn

A montessori & Cambridge Intl' Programmes with qualified & experienced teachers. Small class sizes, personelized lessons & extra curricular activities. Transportation is also available.

Singapore international School (S S) No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh District Tel: 5431 7477

www.kinderworld.net

Students play and learn in an environment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum. The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC. KinderWorld operates 12 campuses throughout Vietnam for students from Pre-school to Senior High School.

Smartkids

1172 Thao Dien Compound, Thao Dien Ward, D2 Tel: 3744 6076

www.smartkidsinfo.com

International standard childcare center offers day care and pre-school to children from eighteen months to six years old. Fun and friendly environment focuses on learning through play.

entertainment

Dam Sen Park

03 Hoa Binh, D11

A sprawling complex of amusement parks including the infamous waterpark and other attractions such as the flower-filled zoo and some low key rides. Entrance fee is 25,000VND for adults and 15,000VND for kids. Be sure to bring your own water and packed lunch as facilities are less than brilliant.

Diamond Plaza

34 Le Duan, D1

The top floor arcade and bowling alley is bound to keep your little ones

entertained for hours with an impressive array of video games. Some child-friendly dining options too, with Pizza Hut on hand, a KFC and a New Zealand Natural ice cream concession.

Parkson Plaza

39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1

Arcade game after arcade game line the top floor here with a bowling alley and a decent food court thrown in on the floor below. A good place to take the kids after trawling through Parkson’s numerous concession stands.

X-rock Climbing

503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2

www.xrockclimbing.com

Saigon’s first outdoor climbing wall has excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids of four and upwards. Kids up to twelve must be accompanied by a parent or guardian.

parties

a2

196 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3

Well-known toy shop that also does a substantial line in fancy dress costumes and partywear. Also has a concession at An Phu Supermarket.

Beatrice’s Party Shop

235 Le Thanh Ton, D1

A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party with paper napkins, balloons, streamers and much, much more. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more, all for hire through the shop.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong

131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1

A curious shop stocking a range of hand-made fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more. The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other holidayspecific party costumes. Prices are also on the cheap.

The Balloon Man

Tel: 3990 3560

Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. Great service has earned this chap a reputation around town for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons.

toys

funnyland

1st Fl, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1

Stocks an excellent range of toys from Crayola crayons and pens to Barbie, Lego, toy cars and much more.

Kids Planet

1st Fl Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1

Sells outdoor toys such as paddling pools and inflatables, cheap pocketmoney fodder such as stickers, stationery, key-rings and the like alongside a small but fairly good range of baby toys and apparel.

joining the club

Golf in Vietnam has experienced surges and slowdowns since its rebirth in 1993.

Today the sport has more Vietnamese fans than ever and some 60 new golf projects are in the works across the country. But with the economy foremost on everyone’s minds, will golf prove itself a part of the solution? By Esther de la Cruz.

By any description, it’s a wet afternoon on the course at the Vietnam Golf and Country Club (VGCC). In the downpour outside the spacious clubhouse, the caddies appear as soft phantoms of white and pink. The golfers are intent in their plastic raincoats.

“Aren’t they going to come in?” I ask general manager Blair Cornthwaite.

“Nah” he says with a shrug, that seems more amused than concerned. “They don’t want to come in. These golfers—rain or shine—they’re going to finish their 18 holes.”

It seems like a die-hard attitude, but despite the local weather, golf has hit it off, so to speak, with a growing number of Vietnamese. Over half of the VGCC memberships sold last year were to local players, most of them fairly new to the game.

While there are only a handful of golfers braving the weather on the course today, the VGCC is in fact one of the busiest golf clubs in the country, with over 100,000 rounds played last year. Even with the economic downturn, weekends see the club’s two courses scattered with golfers working their way over the grass.

“We’re quite blessed in our location,” Cornthwaite says. He notes that while tourist play is down 70 percent from last year, the VGCC’s membership remains steady, so that it hardly

feels the loss.

However, in the current financial climate, not all golf courses are equally blessed. Faltering revenues around the globe mean that international tourists are conspicuously absent from the fairways. Making matters worse, the tax on golf has now been raised to 30 percent—triple the amount levied by Vietnam’s closest golfing neighbours.

Obstacles and Opportunities

Spend a few minutes with U.S. PGA member and long-time golf management consultant Jeff Puchalski, and you’ll find he’s not ruffled by the numbers.

On the contrary, the former director of the Dalat Palace Golf Club is surprisingly confident; at least confident enough to form FORE Golf Asia, a golf management and consulting firm that opened last month. In almost the same breath, he both admits the sport is facing challenges and asserts there has never been a more exciting time for golf in Vietnam.

In the last 14 years, Puchalski has seen the sport bounce back strong from more than one economic crisis. He believes it’s a matter of keeping attention on Vietnam’s golf destinations during the wait, and getting the country’s courses ready for the next inevitable comeback.

“There are not a lot of golfers in here for business now,

but when [the economy] turns around, people are going to have that one destination where, when they can travel again, they want to go first. As long as you don’t lose that momentum, once people start traveling again they’ll start coming back."

And Puchalski expects that return to happen sooner than later. "I think this November and December we’re going to be surprised—with the progress in Vietnam and with our golfers as well.”

Even amidst the economic slowdown, Puchalski sees positive. He says the evacuation of numerous foreign development investors has, somewhat ironically, been beneficial to the industry: “The downturn in the economy has given everybody a chance to rethink and restructure. Now the serious developers and investors are left. That’s a good thing.”

How Green are the Greens?

Puchalski may be right in that regard, but not everyone is convinced Vietnam needs another golf course. In early May, golf representatives and environmental, agricultural and development experts gathered in Hanoi for the Golf Courses and Green Construction conference. Jeff Puchalski describes the firstof-its-kind conference as “kind of like a town meeting.”

Following the conference, the country woke to a flood of reports from the major media; some quoting blood pressureraising figures. Thanh Nien News quoted Dang Van Dam of the Vietnam Environment Association as saying golf courses use triple the amount of chemicals as farmland, about 1.5 tonnes annually. Thanh Nien also quoted Mr. Dam saying that an 18-hole golf course requires 5,000 cubic metres of water each day, the daily domestic use of 2,000 families.

An expert from Vietnam's Settlement Research Institute also weighed in, asserting that the land used by an average 18-hole golf course could alternately support 7,000 people

one should tee off on land that could feed a whole community.

“Arable land should never be used for a golf course,” he says.

“Should a soil be unsuitable for agriculture or settlement, a golf

“We’re going to be surprised— with the progress in Vietnam and with our golfers as well”

and generate 350 tonnes of rice per crop.

These numbers raise questions that aren't easily squared away. On hearing some of the statistics, VGCC's Blair Cornthwaite says he's "stunned."

Even during the driest time of the year, he asserts that the 18-hole courses he manages use only a fourth to one-third of the amount of water calculated in Mr. Dam’s research.

In addition, the VGCC pays extra to import slow-release fertilisers from the United

course could theoretically be built there.” Cornthwaite thinks the VGCC, which provides jobs for 900 people and includes 40 hectares of preserved cashew forest, is a good example of proper placement.

Dr. Nguyen Ngoc Chu, secretary-general of the Vietnam Golf Association (VGA), laments how golf's positive aspects are often overlooked. “Some people criticise golf courses. But our cities have so many factories and so much pollution compared to golf courses,” he says.

“Sports are not for rich or poor— sports are for everybody”

States, explains Cornthwaite.

The course is also nourished using a liquid organic fertiliser called ami ami, a manufacturing by-product from a nearby factory, which would otherwise be considered waste.

For Cornthwaite, the answer to environmental concerns is proper course management: “We try to make a system where we can do things that are environmentally friendly and sound and, at the end of the day, also save money.”

When it comes to farmland, Cornthwaite backs up the experts on the notion that no

Regardless of differences or who the primary polluters are, there was one thing everyone agreed on; the need for a governing body that will prevent haphazard planning and supervise course management to ensure environmentalfriendliness.

“The whole purpose of the meeting was to get everybody connected," says Puchalski, who considers the event a success.

“There’s no better time to get everybody on board than now.”

Ruling out yesterday, Dr. Chu agrees now is indeed the best time for golf to step it up. Ac-

cording to him, the country has about 10,000 local golfers, and he predicts that number will multiply in a few years. However, he believes Vietnam is in need of affordable golf facilities. "We need public golf investment by government," he says, "otherwise golf is a luxury most people cannot have. Sports are not for rich or poor—sports are for everybody."

Whether or not the VGA's hopes come to fruition, there is a growing group of Vietnamese getting into the swing of things. Take for example Sarah Dang, a 27-year-old marketing manager who has been golfing here for three years now. She loves the sport so much, every night she practices her swing before she goes to bed.

The self-confessed golf addict says that, unlike before, the driving ranges are so packed these days, she has to wait her turn. But if it’s an inconvenience for people like Dang, Jeff Puchalski views the crowded ranges as a good sign. "Before it was kind of hush-hush," he says. "Now everybody wants to be seen on the golf course."

As usual with big projects, golf in Vietnam may need some time before it finds its footing. Meanwhile, much is being done to bring the game up to par. Later this year, the VGA expects representatives from the U.S. Golf Association (USGA) to rate Vietnam's courses; the result will be a more standardised handicap programme. Even with limited funds, the VGA and various golf courses are currently developing a junior programme. As Dr. Chu states; "We cannot wait, we've come very late."

Back at the Vietnam Golf and Country Club, it has finally stopped raining. Sure enough, the golfers are still swinging away; and though it’s late in the game, every step brings them closer to the flag.

nutrifort health feed

Pros and Cons of Detox Diets

By Nutrifort’s Nicole Hankins

sports & leisure

clubs & societies

international ladies in Vietnam www.ilvietnam.info

A long-established support group that organises a range of activities and outings for its members. Regular Thursday coffee mornings (VND80,000) from 10.00am to 12.00am at the Rex Hotel Tea Room.

Sedona Town Club

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1

Tel: 3822 9666

Elegant yet affordable club which mixes business with pleasure, combining a business centre and library with fine dining indoors and al fresco, cool drinks by the pool. Includes movie theatre and children's play area. Affiliated with a dozen clubs from around the world.

cookery classes

hip hop for kids ages 4 and up. Workshops offered year round.

Salsa Dancing - la fenetre Soleil

135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1

Every Thursday from 8pm with Urko and Fred, with a total beginners workshop starting at 8:30pm (minimum 10 people required; 50,000 VND with a cocktail). Followed by social dancing until midnight.

Salsa Dancing - la Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com

Six-week salsa package at 300,000 VND for single women and 400,000 for a couple, run by Frederique. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7:30pm; intermediate Cuban at 8:30pm). Registration required.

Swing Dancing - la fenetre Soleil

For many people, detoxification diets seem like the perfect solution for weight loss or cleansing the body. Advocates say periodic cleansing helps clear toxins that accumulate in the body's fat stores, which can result in headaches, fatigue and increased risk of chronic diseases like cancer. But most detox diets apply to a range of eating plans, from two-day juice fasts to radical regimes like colonic irrigations. Few people talk about the side-effects of fasting or the dangers of a colonic that can result in infection or even rupture of the colon.

Pros:

For a week or so, fasting or following a restrictive diet generally isn't a problem, and many people say they feel better after doing so. Some programmes encourage eating lots of fruit and vegetables, which are high in water and fibre and may help move things through the GI tract. Also, most of these plans prescribe a temporary break from caffeine, alcohol and refined sugars. This may eliminate energy crashes associated with these ingredients and help people realise how much unhealthy food they consume. In this way, detox periods may inspire longer-term healthy changes.

Cons:

Even safer plans that promote eating select foods may cause fatigue or dizziness if they don't supply adequate calories. If severe caloric restric-

tion is sustained for more than a few days, the body may sense impending starvation and release stress hormones that cause fat stores to break down rapidly—a response that, ironically, may increase circulating toxins. When fat is metabolised very quickly, the process may free up toxins at a rate that overwhelms the body's capacity for dealing with them. Also, the enhanced energy that detox dieters often report may be the result of surging stress hormones. Evolutionarily, it makes sense—a "fight or flight" response drives hungry animals to seek out food aggressively. An adrenaline-charged drive is short-lived and with prolonged caloric restriction, the body powers down to conserve energy, ultimately slowing the metabolism. And colonic irrigations that are done improperly can harm the large intestine.

My Verdict:

If you're a healthy adult, living on vegetables and water for a few days isn't likely to cause harm, but it’s also unlikely to produce much good. People who operate in the mode of "live today, detox tomorrow" are fooling themselves. Optimising your body's natural detoxification system is best achieved by consistently practising healthy behaviours like consuming nutrient-rich foods, drinking plenty of fluids, getting adequate sleep and exercising regularly. Remember, there's no substitute for clean living.

Caravelle Hotel Cooking Classes

Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1

Tel: 3823 4999

The prestigious hotel also offers full-day Vietnamese cooking classes for groups of up to 20 people. The classes include a visit to the market with the sous chef. Costs US$45++ each for a minimum 10 people.

l’Olivier Cooking Classes

Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le Duan, D1

Tel: 3824 1666

Executive chef Sakal Phoeung explains the delights of Provencal cuisine, ending with a three-course lunch with wine and a debriefing. Classes are held on the last Wednesday of each month and cost US$40 each for a minimum of two people. Arrange a week in advance.

Vietnam Cookery Centre

362/8 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh Tel: 3512 1491

Well-known Vietnamese cooking classes with half-day and more in-depth eight-day courses. Students work in a comfortable kitchen area with their own stove and workspace. Eight-day course costs US$160.

1) High School Summer Workshop

135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.saigonswing.com

Free swing dance nights held every Wednesday from 8pm to 9pm, followed by a DJ so you can practice your new moves. Regular classes are held every six weeks in East Coast Swing and Lindy Hop at a cost of VND 350,000 per person per session.

fitness & yoga

California WOW Xperience Parkson, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999

The world's biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon's newest and most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge work-out area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Caravelle Club Spa

19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999

Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights.

The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

cricket

For kids ( age 7 to 13) from 12 july

Saigon Cricket assocation

6 sessions

5 days a week

1h30 per day register now!

Fee: $55/week

Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons. australian Cricket Club

2) Summer Adults class

Continue Troughout July & August

Christophe Guillemin Tel: 0909 365525 azia_shop@yahoo.fr www.azia-shop.com

French fitness instructor offers his training assistance both at home or in your gym to help with everything from weight loss to muscle building. Available seven days a week from 6am to 9pm. Also does cardio training sessions at An Phu swimming pool on Saturday at 11am.

Check our website www.dancentervn.com <http://www.dancentervn.com> <http://www.dancentervn.com>

Curves

15 Trinh Van Can, D1 Tel: 3821 0319

In attached le, 1) our summer yer to give you an idea. (We will talk about the HHp belly dance and Tap dance WS on August issue....)

Mr. Terry Gordon, terryg@travelindochina.com saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com english Cricket Club Richard Carrington, Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com www.eccsaigon.com indian Cricket Club

2) our logo

Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com indian Sports Club

Mr. Surya Prakash, prakash@seaswiftvietnam.com

3) our contact are below:

Sri lankan Cricket Club Angelo Perera, angelo.perera@dhl.com United Cricket Club

Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net

dancing

DanCenter

46/2 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com

Modern dance studio with classes in jazz, ballet, hip hop, dancing, salsa and stretching for adults plus ballet, jazz and

Curves is a women's only fitness franchise with over 10,000 locations and four million members. The centre offers a famous 30-minute total body workout that they say will burn up to 500 calories. Features training on ‘double positive’ resistance equipment.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1

The city’s largest department store has a well-equipped gym with steam room, jacuzzi, massage parlour and swimming pool. The gym costs from US$80 per month.

equinox fitness & leisure Centre

Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777

Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor

yoga corner

by Daniel DeGrood

Eagle Pose

The eagle pose in Sanskrit is garudasana. The goal is to balance and focus while standing on one foot and wrapping your arms and legs around each other, aligning them down the middle of the body with your head, shoulders, arms, hips, knees and ankles. This pose is intended to keep the practitioner alert and focused while energising the entire body.

If you’re one of the millions who spend most days in front of the computer, this can be done sitting, as well. Just wrap your arms and legs around each other and give a little squeeze. Take a few breaths and switch. Do it a few times throughout the day. It’s that easy!

Step-by-step:

1. Begin in mountain pose, feet together and standing tall. Slow your breath and keep it steady. Eyes focused on one point in front of you.

2. Inhale as you raise your arms up over your head and give them a little stretch.

3. As you exhale, swing your right arm under the left and wrap the arms and hands together. Note: If you have an arm injury, feel free to keep your hands in a prayer position or grab opposite shoulders.

4. Slightly bend the knees and shift your body weight to the left leg.

5. Cross the right leg over the left and place the right foot behind the left leg, hooking the toes behind the left calf or ankle. If you are unable to hook the toes, try to push the right foot close to the left leg.

6. Sit the hips down and lift the chest up. Give your arms and inner legs a squeeze and keep looking straight

pool great for swimming laps. Individual membership costs US$85++ per month with a US$300++ joining fee.

Hollywood fitness World Level 3, H3 Building, 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 Tel: 3826 4639

One of the latest & best workout environments in the city, suitable for all ages and fitness levels. Personal training is offered.

erick Tony Varin, fitness and Swimming instructor Tel: 090 336 7150

Email: Erickforcearca@hotmail.com

ahead at one point. Adjust your body until the arms and legs are lined up straight down the middle of the body.

7. Remain in this pose for 30 to 60 seconds and then come back to mountain pose.

8. Switch legs and arms and repeat 2 to 3 times on each side.

Benefits of eagle pose

The eagle pose strengthens your legs, knees and ankles and loosens the arm and leg joints. It stretches and tones leg muscles and helps relieve leg cramps and lower back problems. It’s especially beneficial for leg muscles that have grown weak from a sedentary lifestyle. It relieves stiffness in the shoulders and neck tension. Practiced diligently over time, the eagle posture enhances power of concentration, sense of balance and grace of body.

Daniel DeGrood teaches at The Sofitel Plaza Saigon. Email theyogacorner@hotmail. com for information or call 0909 831490 for private instruction.

Park Hyatt fitness Centre

2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel:3 824 1234

Luxury health centre with the full range of facilities including swimming pool, steam room, jacuzzi and fitness centre. Threemonth peak membership costs US$570 and off-peak is US$360.

Renaissance Hotel Health Club

8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033

French instructor offers individual adapted programmes at home or at your gym, including weight loss, muscle gain, athletic training and post-traumatic treatment. Swimming and aqua aerobics classes for groups or individuals are also offered.

John Huy Tran, fitness nstructor Tel: 0983 789 318 jht_fitness@hotmail.com

Canadian fitness professional certified trainer with over 10 years’ experience in the fitness industry, dance and sports. Can provide training tailored to individual needs ranging from weight loss to muscle gain and strength training.

K1 fitness and fight factory

346 Ben Van Don, D4 Tel: 0918 337 111 www.teamminetti.com

Fitness centre teaching English and Thai boxing, karate, Vietnamese martial arts, judo, fencing, grappling, and mixed martial arts with classes for both adults and children. All training conducted by a professional foreign instructor. Check website for class schedule or email david@teamminetti.com.

l’apothiquaire fitness Centre

64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181

Internationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Hatha, Vinyasa Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and Aqua-Aerobics. Three-month membership costs US $290 with 1 free Body Care, one year membership costs US $970 with 1 free Luxury Package. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room. Monthly schedule available at www.lapothiquaire.com.

la Cochinchine

5th Floor Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1 Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477)

New and affordable fitness centre located in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. A good variety of classes are available, including yoga and aerobic dance.

legend Hotel fitness Centre

2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1

One of the best hotel fitness centres. Very well-equipped gym with cardiovascular and weight machines, along with a circular swimming pool and massage parlour. A three-month membership costs US$400++.

Nutrifort

2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 3825 8560 nutrifort@hcm.fpt.vn/www.nutrifort.com

Comprehensive health, fitness and nutritional centre, which designs customised exercise programmes for all levels. Sells its own range of food supplements such as protein bars and energy drinks.

NTfQ2

34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672

ntfq2@nutrifort.com/www.nutrifort.com

First boutique, purpose-built fitness and wellness centre in Vietnam. Offers personal training, small group classes, specialised treatment and healthy dining at on-site restaurant Good Eats.

Stylish health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room, massage parlour, pool-side bar and an outstanding view of the city. Costs US$140 a month, or US$10 a day.

Saigon fitness Club

New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888

The modern Nautilus-equipped gym is staffed by highly-qualified instructors to cater for your fitness needs. Features a swimming pool, floodlit tennis court, golf driving range, jogging track, sauna, and massage rooms.

Saigon Yoga

10F Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3910 5181 info@saigonyoga.com www.saigonyoga.com

Experts offer two to three classes of Yoga and Pilates a day, seven days a week, at low monthly rates. All levels are catered to by an internationally certified group of teachers from the U.S. at this foreign-owned, downtown venue. Call Eric on 0908 352265 or 0903 183 248.

Star fitness Gym

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255

This 1,600m2 gym is apparently the biggest in Vietnam. At the helm is Steve Chipman, who has helped set up gyms at the Sofitel hotels in both Hanoi and Saigon. Has a good range of machines for any type of workout. Membership involves one time entry fee plus monthly subscriptions and gives free access to regular fitness classes.

Sofitel Plaza fitness Centre 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555

Small but well-equipped gym with helpful staff and quality equipment. Membership costs US$600++ for six months and US$1000++ for a year. Also runs a number of fitness classes including yoga.

Yoga with Michelle lloyd Tel: 090 964 8193

michelleglloyd@gmail.com www.michellelloyd.com

Certified yoga instructor offering Vinyasa yoga classes at various locations around the city. Private and corporate yoga programmes available. Contact Michelle for information on her current schedule and special events.

football & rugby

australian Rules football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com

The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). Everyone welcome.

les Gaulois de Saigon www.gauloisdesaigon.com info@gauloisdesaigon.com

A new team of French footballers, the side invites players and their families to come and join in their friendly training sessions, where everyone can get together and enjoy the sport while making new friends. Contact Sebastien on 0919 691785 or Romain on 0908 060139.

RMiT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn

A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie. Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com

Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces. Contact Jon Hoff.

Saigon Rugby Club Tel: 0903 735 799 www.saigonrfc.org

Social, mixed touch rugby played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT from 3.30pm until 5.30pm, sponsored by Foster’s. Men's contact and ladies’ touch teams regularly tour the region for tournaments.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com

Expat football club which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Tours to places like Phan Thiet and plays in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

golf

Bochang Dong Nai Golf Resort

Trang Bom Town, Thong Nhat District

Tel: 061 3866 288 www.vietnamgolfclub.com

Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, barbecue area, bar, sauna, jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 300 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city. Membership starts at US$2,000 a year.

Dalat Palace Golf Club

Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com

The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees. Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009-yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club

1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com

Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon South Golf

Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001

Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Membership starts from US$700 for 6 months. Visitors’ greens fees for a round of golf are around US$16 before 5pm and US$19 after. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

Song Be Golf Resort

77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 www.songbegolf.com

Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course. Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club

Long Thanh My Village, D9 Tel: 3733 0126

www.vietnamgolfcc.com

This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

leisure

Hash House Harriers www.saigonh3.com

Running club that meets every Sunday at 2pm at the Caravelle Hotel to go on a run in different locations out of town with their traditional balance of exercise and beer.

Saigon international Dart league www.thesidl.com

A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 14 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon Pony Club

Lane 42, Le Van Thinh St, D2 Tel: 09 1373 3360

A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.

Softball bobinsaigon@gmail.com

Informal softball played on a slow pitch for both men and women every Sunday from 2pm to 4pm at RMIT. Arrive half an hour early for a warm up. All equipment provided. Call Bob on 0908 273534 for details.

Squash

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3827 0176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com

One of three squash courts in town. Membership is open to non-Landmark residents. For players without a partner, The Landmark also has a squash instructor who gives private lessons. Racquets and balls available for rent. Book in advance or phone for further information.

Ultimate frisbee

RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com

Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced.

Contact Lester Sualog at 0903 827 250

Vietnam Hobby Brewers hobbybrewer.vietnam@gmail.com www.hobbybrewer-vietnam.de.tl

Small group of beer enthusiasts gather bi-monthly at microbrewery to talk beer, share brewing tips and sample homemade suds. The group is keen on taking on new members with an interest in learning how to brew.

Vietwings Paragliding

info@vietwings-hpg.com

Host your next event at NTFQ2 Good Eats!

Corporate Events

If a trip to Dalat for 20 sta members is not an option this year, plan a half day at the club with an hour of tness, nice luncheon and nutritional seminar for the fraction of the cost.

Private Parties

From 10 to 50 people, for adults and kids, with options such as dance lessons in the gym while food and wine are served outside. We can provide a set menu for any budget.

Catering “Good Eats” food

Our chef Tony Fox can work up a menu for your event, and help you with all your catering needs.

Promoted by a local advertising executive turned test pilot, paragliding and hang-gliding can be performed in several locations across southern Vietnam including Dalat, Phan Thiet, Tay Ninh, Cao Lanh and Vung Tau. Call Loco on 0903 825607 for more information.

X-Rock Climbing

503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com

contact us via email: n t fq2 @ n u t r i f o r t . c o m phone: 3 - 744 - 6672, or stop by the club at 34 nguyen dang giai, q2.

ntfq2 spa and good eats now open to the public

Boasting a 26-metre purpose-built mountain in District 2, X-Rock offers mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, safety courses and training. bar spa eats gym

back to basics

Concerned with reports about the safety of skincare products, Ginny Becker rethinks her beauty regimen choices and goes au-natural. Photo by

Christian Berg

.

I've often lectured anyone who would listen about the health dangers that mass-market beauty products can present, but despite my pontificating, I too had gradually become dependent on these same products. Not a wise choice, considering that some popular skincare products contain chemicals linked to hormonal imbalances, Alzheimer's disease and cancer.

The Environmental Working Group (EWG), a nonprofit research organisation based in Washington DC, reports that many countries have minimal requirements for their product safety testing. Unfortunately, this leaves consumers to figure out for themselves which personal care products are safe.

After reading one too many articles on the potentially toxic ingredients found in skincare products, I began a quest to find effective, yet non-toxic alternatives. After researching the ingredients listed on a variety of natural skincare products, I was surprised to discover that many of them can be found in the kitchen. Tomatoes, milk, green tea and coffee grounds are just a few of the many foods that can improve the skin. Listed here are all-natural skincare treatments that are easy to prepare, cost effective and above all, non-toxic. Each of the recipes' proportions can be adjusted to suit your needs. Use these treatments twice per week to obtain the best results.

Sensitive Skin Cleanser

1 ripe tomato

2 tablespoons milk

2 tablespoons orange or lime juice

Blend the ingredients and apply to the face, massaging outward from the cheeks. Rinse thoroughly and gently dry the skin.

This cleanser is designed to soften and hydrate acne-prone skin. Acid from tomatoes, combined with antimicrobial properties found in milk, often speeds the healing time for blemishes. Both orange and lime juices are astringent substances, which means they have a natural ability to shrink pores.

Green Tea Toner

4 teaspoons green tea 1/2 cup spring water

Steep the teabag in spring water for 15 minutes. Mix well and apply to the face and neck.

This light yet effective toner works well on sensitive and sunburned skin. Green tea is high in vitamins C and E and contains a substance called epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), a powerful antioxidant that helps protect the skin and repair damage.

Wrinkle Reducing Pomegranate Masque

1 ripe pomegranate

5 tablespoons yoghurt

Mix both ingredients in a blender until smooth. Apply to the skin and leave on for 25 minutes.

Pomegranates are said to stimulate the production of collagen and rebuild the skin's outer layers, helping to reduce fine lines and wrinkles. They're high in

antioxidants and known to inhibit free radicals, which in turn offers protection from the effects of aging. Yoghurt tightens and softens the skin and has antimicrobial properties, keeping the skin clear and healthy.

Coffee Scrub for Cellulite

1 cup coffee grounds

1/4 cup sugar

2 tablespoons of body oil

Mix the ingredients in a bowl and apply to cellulite-prone areas, concentrating on the arms and upper legs. Vigorously rub the affected areas, using wide circular motions for approximately 10 minutes. Be sure to use the grounds within 20 minutes to avoid oxidation, which lessens the effects of the scrub.

Caffeine is known to reduce cellulite by redistributing and smoothing the body’s fat cells. Sugar is a natural alpha hydroxy acid, making it an effective exfoliator. Body oil helps distribute the coffee mixture evenly and moisturises the skin.

Healthy Nails Treatment

2 egg yolks, beaten 1/4 cup milk

1 tablespoon honey

Mix the ingredients in a bowl and soak the nails for 15 minutes. Rinse well and apply moisturiser around the cuticles.

The protein found in eggs, along with calcium from milk helps strengthen the nails. Honey's antifungal properties keep nails clear of infection, which is helpful in humid climates.

For ingredient information on popular personal care products, visit the Environmental Working Group's cosmetic safety database at www.ewg.org.

your brain as a radio

Your state of mind is like a radio station that either lifts you up or brings you down. Douglas Perras explains how to turn the dial on disempowering stations and tune in to something more upbeat.

In the world of neuro-linguistic programming (NLP) and hypnotherapy, it is commonly believed that clients already have the resources they need to do anything they desire. You can call those resources cell memory, cognitive skills or the simple ability to imagine. Whatever your age, your life thus far consists of many experiences. Even the youngest of children have experienced joy, elation, curiosity, disappointment, sadness—the entire spectrum of human emotion. Because we’ve experienced these emotions, we can tune in to them again and again to help manage our state of mind. If you think of the brain as a radio with various stations on the dial, then it becomes clear that you can choose which station to listen to. Just like a country music station has distinct characteristics (instruments, lyrics, arrangements) that set it apart from a pop station, different states of mind are also built from distinct characteristics. Understanding and identifying these characteristics are useful strategies when it comes to managing our states.

Change Your Station

We all create pictures in our minds. We add some audio and

perhaps some smells and tastes. These imagined senses then evoke feelings. What’s interesting is that people are creatures of habit. They condition themselves to enter and maintain states of mind, or "stations", through repeat behaviour. For example, depressed individuals will condition a station into a habitual way of thinking characterised and reinforced

same thing, but they tune in to a different station. Their posture and manner is probably lighter: shoulders back; deep, regular breaths; upbeat tone of voice. They imagine positive outcomes and create mental images that are bright and close to them.

To change your state of mind, you need to change your station. This, however, is not the same as positive thinking. It

tone of voice? What pictures, sounds and feelings come to mind? Where are they located? At first this can be difficult, but with repetition it becomes easier to identify the makeup of these states of mind.

well-being

alternative medicine

american Chiropractic Clinic

8 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com

Run by a U.S.-certified chiropractic physician with over 20 years' experience. Treats back pain, neck pain, knee pain and more.

institute of Traditional Medicine

273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment. The Institute also provides acupuncture lessons at US$30 per day.

Osteopathic Medicine at nternational Medical Center

Parkway Shenton nternational Clinic

Suite 213-214, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 4101

Owned by the Singapore-based healthcare giant Parkway Holdings, this aesthetics clinic offers a range of both surgical and non-surgical treatments including dental reconstruction.

dental

european Dental Clinic

127 Dien Bien Phu, Dakao, D1 Tel: 3823 8680

Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24-hour emergency line: 0909 551916 or 0918 749204.

Koseikai Dental Clinic

To change your state of mind, you'll need to change your station

by certain thoughts, patterns of movement, tones and other sub-modalities. People who tap into this station often use a low tone of voice, take shallow breaths, shrug their shoulders and hang their heads. They imagine the worst case scenario for the future and look to the past to explain why something won't work in the present. When forming mental images, their pictures are most likely large and in close proximity to each other.

Optimistic individuals do the

instead involves identifying the source from which the station emits its frequency, the first step towards entering any state of mind. Once you’ve dialed in, it's possible to create the qualities of that particular station.

Dialing In

Think back to a time when you were in your desired state. Note your internal and external focus. How are you standing? How are you breathing? What is your

Once you've identified the characteristics that contribute to this state of mind, tune yourself in. Breathe the way you would breathe. Stand the way you would stand. Use the same tone of voice and visualise the same images. In other words, act as if you're already in the desired state of mind.

Doing this until you achieve the desired feeling will put you in a positive state. Once in that state, you'll know the frequency. The reason you'll feel this way is because you're doing specific things in a specific way that produce the desired state. The more you deliberately enter this state, the stronger the frequency will be in your mind. Eventually, tuning in to this station will be automatic. Enjoy discovering the process and tuning in to the characteristics of empowering stations. Douglas Perras is a Master NLP Practitioner in HCM City. NLP explores the interplay between the mind and language and its affect on the body and behaviour. For more information, call 01226949108, email info@newlookplanet.com or visit www.newlookplanet.com.

1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 French-trained osteopath and physiotherapist specialising in treating back pain and other muscular, ligament and joint problems. Osteopathy relieves pain and other discomforts using a holistic approach and gentle manipulative techniques.

Sarah Martin

NTFQ2-34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Mobile: 0937 442 516 sarahmichaela@hotmail.com www.sarahmichaela.com NTFQ2's massage and remedial therapist offering Hawaiian Lomi Lomi massage, deep tissue/sports massage, pregnancy massage and Reiki.

3rd floor, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1 Tel: 3910 6255 info@koseikai.com.vn www.koseikaidentist.com

A member of Dental Clinic Vietnam, provide full range of dental services with the latest in technology, delivery of laboratory work and new technologies now available.

Maple Healthcare Dental Clinics

72 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Tel: 3820 1999 info@maplehealthcare.net

Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 1999 saigon@maplehealthcare.net www.maplehealthcare.net

Adults with latest technique

Traditional Medicine Hospital 197 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Friendly staff speak little to no English at this well-known and spotlessly clean hospital offering treatments that combine traditional Chinese medicine with modern knowledge and expertise.

cosmetic treatment

Cao Thang lasik & aesthetic Clinic 135-135B Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3923 4419

A modern clinic offering a comprehensive range of optical services. Specialises in LASIK correctional procedures, costing from US$700 to US$1,100 for both eyes. English spoken. Open seven days a week.

fV Hospital Cosmetic Surgery

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com

International-standard cosmetic procedures from simple dermabrasion and chemical peels to collagen injections, nose and eye shaping, liposuction, and breast enhancement. Procedures carried out by French and Vietnamese doctors using the latest equipment.

Maple Healthcare Dental Clinic is a 100% Canadian- and American-invested dental practice offering a full range of services including cosmetic dentistry, laser dentistry, and teeth whitening.

Starlight Dental Clinic

Dr. Philippe Guettier & Associates 3 Han Thuyen, D1. Tel: 3822 6222

With 10 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

See Medical listings for hospitals with dental services

hair & salon

anthony George for london Hair & Beauty FIDECO Riverview Building 14 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6475 www.aglondonsalon.com.vn

Top British stylist George brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. The modern, stylish and professional salon is host to a staff of professionally trained beauty therapists. Uses Dermalogica,

Reiki with Sarah Martin

healthy hair

Humidity and Hair

By lloyd Morgan

Humid countries are a woman’s worst enemy. When it comes to hair, even the best style suffers when exposed to hot, damp air. And once your scalp starts to react, it’s only a matter of time before the frizz sets in.

Why the frizz?

The source of frizzy hair can be traced to our sweat glands. Sweat originates in the sudoriferous gland, just below the outer layer of the skin, which in turn activates the oil-producing sebaceous gland. The effect of this biochemical nuisance might be more or less noticeable depending on your cut. Hairstyles with short layers tend to suffer from frizz more than longer layer cuts because sweating pulls the layers towards the scalp. Soon after, the ends of the hair will poke out. It's neither a good look, nor easy to control, especially if you're out and about throughout the day.

Another frizz-defining factor is hair thickness. The difference between thick hair and fine hair lies in the amount of cuticle layerings on the hair shaft. If you examine a strand of hair under a microscope, you'll see lines that resemble fish scales. These scales are actually cuticle layers. Fine hair has fewer layers than thick hair, and sweating tends to affect fine hair more than it does thick hair.

Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal products. Shampoo, cut and blow-dry starts at US $26; mini facials from $12.

Clarins

58 Dong Khoi, D1 Pricey downtown salon at the home of the international cosmetics line. Offers a range of beauty treatments such as manicures, facials and massage.

Jasmine

45 Ton That Thiep, D1, Tel: 3827 2737 jasminespa@hcm.vnn.vn

Friendly and efficient staff offers haircuts and a wide range of services including waxing, manicures, pedicures and other beauty treatments. Skin renewal facial, salt or rice body scrub & deep tissue massage costs US$98.

Just Men

40 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3914 1407

A sleek place in masculine browns and dark wood with Mercedes chairs, widescreen TV, beer and wine and two ensuite massage rooms. Offers quality hair cuts from US $8, as well as facials, deep-tissue massage and body scrubs.

lloyd Morgan nternational Hair

Studio Dragon's Nest 186 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 6273 2078

International stylist Lloyd Morgan is one of the best in town. He's been in the business for over 30 years and brings his expertise to this established, top-notch salon.

Qi Spa

One way to manage unruly hair is to travel with a thick, porous face towel. After you reach your destination, make a beeline to the bathroom and use the towel to rub away any sweat from your hair. Immediately style and spray your tresses in place. This is a quick fix that works best for those with minimal oil issues.

People with excessive oil on their scalp should visit the salon for a professional blow out. Aim for an appointment later in the day—it will be cooler outside, which allows your style to last longer. If you're styling your own hair, be careful not to overuse the gel or mousse. Hairspray is the best choice because it contains alcohol, which helps to neutralise sweat. But above all, get into the air conditioning as soon as possible. Keep in mind that daily shampooing removes oil and sweat, but can result in dry ends. To remedy this, apply shampoo from the top of the hair, halfway down its length. Next, apply conditioner from the top of the ears down to the ends. This will cleanse the oil on the scalp without damaging the rest of the hair, resulting in fewer tangles and softer hair.

Lloyd Morgan runs the Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio at Dragon's Nest. Contact him at 0908422007 or lloydskate@hotmail.com.

paediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedic and dermatology.

Columbia asia Saigon Clinic

8 Alexandre de Rhodes, D1 Tel: 3823 8888

Respected multi-specialty clinic with foreign and local physicians. Doctors on call 24 hours a day. Standard checkups cost between VND400,000 and VND800,000.

family Medical Practice HCMC

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848

www.vietnammedicalpractice.com

Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby. Wide range of dental procedures are offered by an experienced expatriate dentist. Also in Hanoi and Danang.

fV Hospital

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, D7 Tel: 5411 3333

www.fvhospital.com

A foreign-owned international-standard hospital with a mixture of French and Vietnamese physicians. Offers quality services, comprehensive patient care and is particularly well regarded for its maternity care. Full array of dental services from examination, cleaning and whitening to fillings, cosmetic procedures and implants. 24-hour emergency line: 3411 3500.

151 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 1719

Caravelle Hotel, Tel: 3824 7150

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, Tel: 3997 5437

High-end salon and spa offers the standard range of services in a calming atmosphere with good service. Waxing, nail services, hair dressing as well as luxurious facial and massage treatments all go for upwards.

Souche

2nd Floor, Saigon Trade Centre

37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372

A top-end beauty salon using the Dermatologica line of skincare products. Specialises in personalised facial care treatments from US$30 and medicated acne treatments from US$40. Waxing and other aesthetic services are also available in a pleasant atmosphere with excellent service.

The Salon

21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 9660

65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6394

Reliable haircuts from well-trained stylists at this local salon with multiple locations.

A haircut starts at US $28 for women and US $22 for men.

Venus

41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1 Tel: 3829 6298

French Vietnamese stylist Sandrine Nguyen with more than eight years experience offers haircuts for men from US$7 and US$20 for women. Special services are colouring and highlights.

YKC esthetics & Hair Spa

219 Dien Bien Phu St, D3 Tel: 3829 2791

An excellent salon with a following of expat regulars. A Toronto-trained mother-and-son team manage YKC’s staff and offer the full range of services from facials, body therapy, waxing, nails to cut, color and highlights. medical

australian Clinic & Pathology Diagnostics aCPD)

273-275 Ly Thai To, D10 Tel: 3834 9941

www.australianclinic.com

Services include general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa healthchecks, X-ray, full laboratory and in-house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology,

Well-respected pharmacy with knowledgeable English-speaking owners who are happy to make product recommendations.

Medicare

254Bis, Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3837-7316

A Western-style pharmacy, health, and beauty chain with multiple locations in town. Carries a wide range of medicines, vitamins, cosmetics, skin and hair care products and more at reasonable prices. Visit www.medicare.vn for additional locations.

Pharmacy My Chau

389 Hai Ba Trung, D1

Reasonably priced pharmacy with English-speaking staff. Deals in both Western and local medicines.

Quang Minh

194D Tran Quang Khai, D1 Tel: 3848 3897

Specialises in natural medicines, including Glusivac and Chitosan for joint pain and obesity.

Sapharco

197-199 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0577

Modern pharmacy selling locallyproduced and imported medicines, contraceptives, vitamins and more. Stocks a wider range of brands than most.

skincare

l’apothiquaire

nternational Medical Centre (CM )

1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366

www.cmi-vietnam.com

Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general practice, cardiology, pediatrics, psychiatry, and traditional Eastern medicine.

nternational SOS

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424

www.internationalsos.com

Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Has multilingual staff.

Victoria Healthcare international Clinic

79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 3910 4545

www.victoriavn.com

Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations, and specialising in women’s health, paediatrics, digestive diseases and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme. Open seven days a week. Doctors on call 24 hours.

nails

Nail P.KH

51 Nguyen Huu Cau, D1

A well-known local place with a number of manicure stations and an extensive range of services. A mani-pedi with polish starts at VND40,000.

OP 253 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3

International brand of nail care centres offering a variety of treatments from standard manicures at VND50,000 to the whole host of nail services such as acrylics, powder gell, cuticle treatments and French polishing.

Quang Qui’s Nails

146 & 242 Le Thanh Ton, D1

Locally popular spots with low prices and good service, offering anything you could possibly want for your nails.

pharmacies

linh Dan

199 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3829 7172

aging treatments. Led by Dr. Tran Ngoc Si, a leading dermatologist from the HCM City Skin Hospital.

spas

aqua Day Spa

Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828

Recently revamped luxury eight-room spa with a holistic approach to treatment, using natural Harnn products plus hot stone therapy and seaweed treatments.

Belissima Spa

3rd Floor Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3272 8682

Well known in Hanoi and now available in Ho Chi Minh City, Belissima offers range of facial treatments, body therapies, and hand and foot treatments as well as special packages such as Coffee and Chocolate Body Toning Treatment.

Dragon’s Nest

186 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 6271 2076

Exquisite interior and outdoor design in remodeled villa. An extensive range of pampering options are available as well as a restaurant, hair salon, pool and terrace bar.

Glow Spa Eden Mall, Mezzanine Level 106 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 8368 spa@glowsaigon.com www.glowsaigon.com

64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com info@lapothiquaire.com

French-made natural products for all types of skin. Also offers exclusive natural Italian skin, body and hair care from Erbario Toscano. Available at all L’Apothiquaire outlets.

l’Occitane en Provence New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 French cosmetics company with a 30-year history offering a range of bath and massage oils, essential oils, body and hand care products are especially well known. Also has outlets in all the major downtown shopping malls.

Natural Rendez-Vous Eden Mall, 106 Nguyen Hue, D1 (opposite the Rex Hotel) Tel: 3824 3579 info@naturalrdv.com

The only company in Asia to design & produce 100% natural skin care products. Made with freshly-extracted aloe vera gel instead of water, their products are supplied to many of Vietnam’s bestknown spas under the brands AZIAL and

Decorated in mandarin orange, this new urban spa boasts four single rooms, two couples suites with private shower, and a VIP suite, complete with a hydrotherapy bath. Uses Italian products, Comfort Zone.

la Maison de l apothiquaire 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 info@lapothiquaire.com www.lapothiquaire.com

Traditional French day spa in colonial villa with professional therapists and state-ofthe-art treatments. Complimentary use of swimming pool, sauna and steam bath. Has fitness centre and organic garden restaurant and offers gentlemen's care. Winner of Guide Award 2005-2008.

Renaissance Riverside Spa 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033

No-frills Vietnamese, shiatsu and aromatherapy massages from US$22 plus a room dedicated to foot massages from US$18 at the atrium level. Also has sizable steam and sauna rooms at the club

Xuan Spa

Beautiful spa with highly rated Swedish massage and water therapy including the unique 60 minutes Vichy shower to soften and smooth skin or the Indian Shirodhara with special oil for 45 minutes. calming, and hydrating are also available.

Styling Tips

five designers a concept &a design shop

Four years ago, a group of friends embarked on a venture that exemplified their love of design and Southeast Asia. Soon after, a sophisticated collection of contemporary, international home decor and fashion was introduced to HCM City under the banner of Gaya.

The concept creates more than a retail space. Taking a gallery approach to lifestyle accoutrements, Gaya’s open and airy floor plan in a design-led 70s-era building provides a sense of space that allows visitors to experience the collections. Natural light flows through each of the store’s four floors, illuminating the products natural textures and fibres. Though their designs have become synonymous with the venue, the story of Gaya remains the story of five designers and their passion for their craft.

French-Khmer designer Romyda Keth's elegant and feminine ensembles boast an array of brightly coloured Cambodian silk and organza dresses. Audrey Hepburn likely would have enjoyed the full skirts, tasteful ruffles and hemlines. The lively couture and pret-a-porter designs are bold, but not overbearing and possess an unmistakable energy. Each piece is arranged by colour and calls to be touched and admired. Romyda’s clothing line is based in Phnom Penh, although it can also be found in boutiques in Paris, Tokyo, Singapore and Santiago.

romyda Keth Clothing

Lawson Johnston

Home Accessories and Outdoor Furniture

Seagrass encased light boxes and hanging chairs furnish

Gaya's loft-like top floor. Water hyacinth and seagrass baskets neatly line the shelves, yet each also serves as a standalone piece. Outdoor couches and ottomans made of recycled, synthetic plastic offer a durability not found in natural materials.

Paired with oversized cushions, visitors are drawn to relax and take in the room. Metal trays, mirrors and candle holders add texture to the collection, giving the space a comfortable, yet refined feel.

corinne LeveiLLeydadda Linens

Inspiration for Corinne Leveilleydadda's Chateau Panignon collection comes from almost anything around her castle in Bordeaux, France: the colour of a grape or a piece of wood in her vineyard. Pillow coverings inspired by travels in Morocco and India lend a sense of adventure and worldliness to be experienced from the comfort of home. Delicate lotus flower designs are subtly reminiscent of time spent in Vietnam. A colour palette rich in plums, greens and neutrals make up the soft and inviting bedding, pillows and table linens. Corrine has been designing and producing fine linen and satin cotton collections for 15 years.

Quasar Khanh Cast Aluminium Furniture and Lighting

Those familiar with Quasar Khanh's work know that the engineer/inventor/designer has covered a lot of ground throughout the course of his career, from working on dams to inventing inflatable furniture and, of course, designing furniture.

Quasar's handcrafted collections of cast iron aluminium tables, chairs and lighting are solid and functional, but at the same time, light and whimsical. The eye is drawn to curved fixtures and flowing table legs.

Quasar's objets d'art command the same respect given to a painting or sculpture, yet still call out to be utilised and enjoyed as home furnishings.

Sleek curves and sharp edges govern Michele De Albert’s lacquerware collection. Smooth plates, bowls, boxes and trays in vivid shades of red, brown, blue and green are grouped by colour, adding a sense of purpose and order to the collection—somehow, each piece feels essential when arranged in this way. Finding a bowl or box accented with linen gives a sense of satisfaction similar to discovering a oneof-a-kind design. Michele says she's inspired by nice things, but more importantly, by things that can be used every day and that make life more beautiful.

Michele de aLbert Lacquerware

Time To Break The BRIC

By Paul Mclardie

Jim O’Neill, the global economist for Goldman Sachs, coined the acronym BRIC to describe the emerging markets of Brazil, Russia, India and China. In his 2003 paper, “Dreaming with BRICs: The Path to 2050”, he stated that these countries will be the most dominant world economies by 2050. The idea is that China and India will be the major contributors to the manufacturing and services industries while Russia and Brazil will become dominant in the raw materials sector. The figures also back this plan; these countries encompass over 25 percent of the world’s land coverage, account for 40 percent of the world’s population and have a combined GDP of over 15 trillion dollars.

If all is rosy in the BRIC garden, is it correct to group these four emerging markets together? Well, no. Grouping them has been and still is a marketing tool that enables fund managers to utilise the same rebranding once used to group the Asian Tiger markets together.

All four BRIC countries have different political systems, from a single party-system to the largest democracy in the world. It’s even questionable to call Russia a true democracy (Give them time. It’s new). Geographically, they are too far apart. Trade agreements

have historically worked best when forged with a country’s neighbours or the leading economy on the continent.

Although the BRIC countries do not have a concrete trade agreement as do the European Union members, there is the Shanghai Cooperation Organisation that contains China and Russia and the IBSA TriNational Forum that contains Brazil and India.

Economically, they all have one thing in common: abject poverty. Large portions of each country’s population live in squalor. Brazil and Russia rely heavily on their natural resources of fossil fuels and minerals. What happens when these resources run out or get too expensive to produce because another country has struck black gold? These economies have shown no real signs of diversification.

The BRIC countries have the potential to follow Jim McNiell’s dream, but as wise investors, let’s just put them where they should be. Brazil groups with South America and the United States. Russia ties in with Eastern Europe. India (not forgetting the political turmoil in the region) goes with its neighbouring states and China within Asia. Nice and simple.

By Paul McLardie, partner at Total Wealth Management in HCMC.

Email inquiries to: Paul.mclardie@t-wm.com

auto focus lenses.

le Duc

5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3

A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1

An authorized service center for Nikon camera that also specialises in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

Shop 46

46 Nguyen Hue, D1

An extensive range of lenses for all camera makes plus an impressive array of vintage and classic cameras and accessories. Very friendly and helpful owner.

computers

iCenter

142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918

Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. Honours Apple service plans.

Phong Vu Computer

264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762

www.vitinhphongvu.com

The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor.

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon

96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1

www.vtsaigon.com

A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services. Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

Thuan My

90 Nguyen Cu Trinh, D1 Tel: 3838 9164

188 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3

25 Thao Dien, D2

The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30am.

Sesame Bakery

153 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, D. Binh Thanh Tel: 3518 0897

Located in the premise of the Hospitality School of HCMC, Sesame Bakery provides practical experience to its students. Wide variety of French pastries, loaves, baguettes, cookies at very competitive prices. Special order & delivery available.

Tous les Jours

180 Hai Ba Trung, D3

Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

groceries

annam Gourmet

16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332

41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630

www.annam-finefood.com

Small Apple distribution and repair centre near the backpacker district with hardware, a basic stock of parts and replacements. Installs software

electronics

Hi end audio

84 Ho Tung Mau, D1

A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment. Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available.

iDeaS Shopping Centre

133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3

The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre

63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211

www.nguyenkim.com

Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers.

Savico

117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993

One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty.

bakeries

Harvest Baking

30 Lam Son, Tan Binh, Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com

Deliveries only

This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery. Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts and more. Cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended. Orders must be placed 48 hours prior to delivery.

Nhu lan

64 – 68 Ham Nghi, D1

365 - 367 Hai Ba Trung, D3

The doyenne of bread shops, Nhu Lan is spread over several buildings and sells solid baguette-style bread and basic sandwiches.

Pat a Chou

65 Hai Ba Trung, D1

Trung, D1

24-hour convenience store selling everything from crisps, instant noodles and packaged sandwiches to magazines, cosmetics, alcohol and cigarettes.

Veggy’s

29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526

Popular expat market with a huge walkin fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

liquor & wine

Bacchus Corner

158D Pasteur, D1

Reliable wine and liquor store owned by Tan Khoa Wines with a good range of spirits, whiskies, wines and more all at decent prices. English-speaking staff can help with selections.

Connoisseur

7 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 224 6324

A decent range of wines from both old and new world vineyards lines the walls in this intimate store. Monthly offers on new arrivals are often a good deal. The staff are helpful, but little English.

Boutique grocery with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products. Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor. Cosy café serves coffee, drinks and sandwiches.

au Parc

23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772

A fine deli counter displaying a wide selection of cheeses, roasted vegetables, dips and some tempting sweets. The shelves along the side wall also showcase a solid selection of dried goods and some imported condiments.

Kim Hai Butchery

41 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376

Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices.

le Cochon D’Or

32 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3829 3856 French-style charcuterie selling quality cold cuts, smoked sausage and a range of cheeses at reasonable prices.

Phuong Ha 58 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 3914 1318

A mini-supermarket that sells an extensive assortment of imported packaged food, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and fine wines.

Shop & Go

116 Cong Quynh & 74A/1 Hai Ba

Cigar Shop offering premium quality, 100% authentic Cuban cigars, luxury cigar accessories and fine liquors and wines. The only cigar shop of its kind in HCM City, Casa Habana is located in the swank Park Hyatt Hotel next to the lobby lounge.

supermarkets

an Phu Supermarket

43 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Citymart Sky Garden

20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Citymart Somerset

21 - 23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Citimart Minh Chau

369 Le Van Sy, D3 Co-op Mart Cong Quynh 189C Cong Quynh, D1 Co-op Mart Nguyen Dinh Chieu

168 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3

Co-op Mart Dinh Tien Hoang

127 Dinh Tien Hoang, D.Binh Thanh Co-op Mart Tran Hung Dao 727 Tran Hung Dao, D5

Co-op Mart Nguyen

www.phuongmai-gallery.com

Gallery specialising in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.

Son & Then Photogallery

94 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Adorning the walls of this gallery-cumcafé are a number of photographs by local photographers mostly focusing on tasteful female nudes. Smaller prints start at US$20 while larger works can reach US$500. Framing, consulting and delivery services are also available.

interiors - crafts asian fish

34 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Boutique-style arts and crafts store selling locally made gifts and souvenirs, all designed by the Japanese owner. Products include clothing, bags, crockery, sandals, chopsticks and jewellery.

Decosy

112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer

Red apron

22 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 3823 0021

Large wine and spirits wholesaler, with 90,000 bottles stored in its five locations around the country. Sells wine from all around the world, particularly France, Chile, Italy and Australia.

The Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 www.warehouse-asia.com

One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish place that stocks a full range of both new and old world wines, sparkling wines, champagne, imported beers and world famous spirits. Provides delivery service.

Wine in Saigon www.wineinsaigon.com

An online wine delivery service that delivers your selection to your door 15 to 30 minutes after it’s ordered. Tips on choosing the right wine are available. Delivery from 9am to 9pm.

Vino Wine Shop

74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3914 4031

Boasts one of the best selections of Australian wines in Vietnam, plus a good selection of wines from around the world. Always someone on hand to give expert advice. Delivery service available.

Vine’s Casa Habana

Park Hyatt Saigon 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 5303

VINE’s Casa Habana is a joint venture

interiors - art

Chau

colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions.

Dogma

175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com

Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at US$60 each and small prints cost US$25.

Mai’s Gallery 16 Nguyen Hue, D1 A large contemporary space lined with works by local artists in various styles depending on the current exhibition. Eclectic and well-managed, this is a good place to pick up some interesting and unusual depictions of Vietnam for negotiable prices.

Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi

Sapa

125

Weaved decorative spheres, Gaya

Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam. Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Catherine Denoual

15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394

Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a mouth-watering array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.

Decosy

112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917

Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide- range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

e Gallery

23 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 8306

Traditional decor with a modern twist.

Offers a variety of mid- to high-range furniture, rugs, lighting, art and accessories from around the world, plus interior design services. Also imports furniture to Vietnam for export to Europe and the United States.

esthetic

2B Ngo Van Nam, D1

Tel: 3910 1996/7

Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture.

Friendly staff speak excellent English.

furniture Outlet

3A Ton Duc Thang, D1

Tel: 2243 7955/ 3911 0104

Wide selection of well-crafted and carefully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe.

Gaya

1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495

4-floor store carrying foreign-designed, Vietnamese-inspired furniture, fashion, home linen and accessories collections that complement one another.

linh's White

37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863

Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids' furniture and custom pieces.

Mantra

84 Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3915 1473

www.mantravietnam.com

Tables, photo frames, trays, stools are just some of the elegant vivekkevin items you will find at Mantra. If you're looking for items that use Vietnamese materials but have a modern contemporary feel, Mantra is it. New items received daily.

Mekong Merchant Boutique

23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713

Hybrid furniture, accessories, candles and handicraft store.

Rare Decor

41 Hai Ba Trung, D1, Tel: 3822 2284

137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, D.Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6304/5

Leading home furnishings company in Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use.

Remix Deco

222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 4190

www.remixdeco.com

Boutique furniture store in sprawling white with modern furniture including sofas, tables and seating from around

the world. Featured designers include Le Corbusier, Ray & Charles Eames, Philippe Starck and Ludwig Mies Van der Rhode.

Shop 63

63 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 3898 2821

Large, serene antique shop specializing in furniture in French colonial, Asian and art deco styles, as well as lamps, vases and other home décor from around the world. Also carries small collection of original paintings, fashion and jewellery.

The lost art

31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134

Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products.

The Sixty Three

63 Xuan Thuy Ward, Thao DIen, D2 Tel: 093 848 5211

www.let-us-do.com

New show room concept store of architectural and interior design collective 'Let Us Do'. Specialises in unique and original furnitures, interior decoration, lamps and women's fashion and jewellery.

Thien an furniture

90A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 39105650

A range of beautiful furniture with a distinct traditional flavor from colourful silk lampshades, wooden carved beds, screens, chests and more.

lighting

Caodong Design Boutique

37Bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1

207L Vo Thi Sau, D3

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1

Spanking new store with a range of beautiful items ranging from interesting lighting with decorative table lamps with hand-painted paper shades and some lovely leather boxes and gift ideas.

luxury light

1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7

For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship.

Mosaique

98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1

One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

Treasure light

18A bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 4315

www.treasure-light.com

High-end lighting shop specialising in fine lacquered lamps. Exquisite designs to illuminate your life and style. Wide selection of table lamps, wall lamps, floor lamps and ceiling lamps.

business groups

amCham

Room 323, New World Hotel

Business Centre

76 Le Lai, D1

Tel: 3824 3562

www.amchamvietnam.com

auscham

18 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3911 0272

www.auschamvn.org

British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1

Your complete manufacture and installation partner for homes and resorts Binh Chuan, Thuan An, Binh Duong Province, Vietnam Tel: (84) 650 3747 333   Fax: (84) 650 3747 444 Hotline: (84) 906 000 777   Email: sales@tranduchomes.com

www.tranduchomes.com

Living Solutions

The furniture and interiors of your project, resort or home is  the final touch to realising the design.

The Tran Duc Group has been in the furniture business for ten  years supplying the highest quality indoor and outdoor  furniture for export to the world.

Now we bring our quality and expertise in manufacturing,  decoration and installation to the Vietnamese market with the  founding of Tran Duc Homes.

Tran Duc Homes utilises sustainable sourcing for all projects,  and are a proud member of the Forest Stewardship Council  (FSC), the Tropical Forest Trust (TFT) and the World Wildlife  Fund - Viet Nam Forest and Trade Network (WWF - VFTN).

Tel: 3829 8430

execmgr@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org

CanCham Room 305, New World Hotel

76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3824 3754

www.canchamvietnam.org

eurocham

257 Hoang Van Thu, D.Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamchamvn.org

German Business Group 5th Fl, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org

Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org

Hong Kong Business association Room 322, New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com

NordCham

12A Floor, Bitexco Building 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

consulting

Concetti

33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com

ernst & Young 8th floor, Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com

Grant Thornton 28th floor, Saigon Trade Centre

37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn

inspired image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk

Phuong Nguyen Consulting 1st floor, TPC Business Center 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com

Rouse & Co. international Level 5, Maison Pasteur, 180 Pasteur, D1, Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com

Star Corporate Vietnam Suite 11, Fl 6, 49 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3911 0965 www.starcorpvn.com

Star Management limited 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3897 2765 www.sbghcmc.org

catering

au Parc Catering Services

23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772

Catering services available every day of the year for birthday cakes, dinner parties, wine tastings and corporate events. For a custom-made quotation e-mail auparc@hcm.vnn.vn or call Quynh on 0908 196261.

Saigon Catering

84 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 8388

housing

CB Richard ellis

Unit 1301, Me Linh Point Tower

2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125

www.cbre.com

International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent.

Chamber Property Consultants

Tel: 093 531 2861

www.chamberproperty.com

Chamber Property Consultancy has more than 100 houses and flats available for rent in HCMC. Contact them today for more information.

Nguyen Du Park Villas

111 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 0788

www.ndparkvillas.com.vn

Boutique residence of fully-serviced, luxury downtown apartments designed to combine the atmosphere of a villa with ranges in size from one-bedroom apartments to four-bedroom duplex units.

Platinum1

Star Building, 33 Mac Dinh Chi, D1

Tel: 091 461 6459 Eric Tran or 090 394 9699 David Le

www.platinum1corp.com

Your one-stop agency for housing and office space in the city with pre-viewing selection before the visit and full support throughout your lease.

Riverside apartments

53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3744 4111

www.riverside-apartments.com

Opened in August 1995, Riverside was one of the first luxury serviced apartments in town.

65 Le Loi, D1

Tel: 3824 2733

www.frasersvn.com

indochine Counsel #4A2, 4th Fl, Han Nam Building 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com

lucy Wayne & associates

17 Le Duan, 8th Floor, D1 Tel: 3824 4395 www.lwavietnam.com

Phillips fox #605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717

Pricewaterhousecoopers legal Level 3&4, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796

Rödl & Partner 5th floor, Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: +84 8 3824 4225

recruitment

active Selection Singapore Level14, Bitexco Office Building 19 - 25 Nguyen Hue Street , D1 Tel: 3914 2619/ 3223 www.activeselection.com.vn

Active Selection is a provider of innovative solutions for executive search and selection from middle to senior management level across industries.

DucVina JSC

137 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3920 7893 www.ducvn.com

Opus Vietnam 2A Rolanno Offices

128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net

Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@opusasia.net.

Smart HR #808, Sun Wah Tower 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 www.smarthrvietnam.com

Human resource consultants specialising in job search and selection, and human resource management.

Vietnamworks.com

130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com

Excellent section on advice for jobseekers focusing on topics such as resume writing, cover letters, interview technique and more.

relocation agents

allied Pickfords Satra Building, 2nd Floor, Room 202 58 Dong Khoi Street, D1 Tel: 012 2514 1848 Fax: +84 8 3823 9201 aurelien.jouve@altusholdings.com http://vn.alliedpickfords.com

Provide services of catering, banquets, event planning, BBQ’s, daily deliveries and cocktail parties. For a custom-made quotation e-mail SaigonGG@gmail.com or call Huong on 0913 981128.

The Caterers 6/32 Yen The, Tan Binh Tel: 3848a 9276 thecaterers@yahoo.com.vn

Newly established catering company offering extensive services from location sourcing, décor designing and food catering. All functions can be catered for, from low-key barbeques at home to full-blown weddings and parties.

Xu Catering 1st floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468

www.xusaigon.com

From the brains behind Xu Restaurant and Lounge comes this new catering service, promising the highest standards in service. Everything from the menu to the comprehensive bar service and the staff is tailor-made to your specifications.

Saigon Village 523 To Hien Thanh, D10 Tel: 3865 7249

www.saigonvillage.vnn.vn

Fully furnished villas and apartments in a tranquil, leafy complex cordonned off from the pressures of Ho Chi Minh City.

Snap www.snap.com.vn

Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in district two. Full listings online.

allens arthur Robinson #605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 www.vietnamlaws.com

Baker & McKenzie 12th Floor Saigon Tower 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585

frasers international #2, 10th floor, Saigon Centre

An executive search consultancy specialising in helping companies find the right personnel, whether they are foreigners or Viet Kieus. Fluent in German, English and Vietnamese.

first alliances

#609, Saigon Trade Center

37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079 www.firstalliances.net

cv@firstalliances.net

As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll and overseas employment and education services.

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC 8th Floor Thien Son Building 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.hr2b.com

HR consulting advises business on how to improve employee productivity. The search team specialises in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

Mekong emerald Talent Recruitment

1st Floor Hoa Lam Office Building 2 Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 6290 9394 68 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Tel: 3820 3184 www.mekongem.com

Offers comprehensive manpower services including executive search and selection, employment outsourcing and HR management in a wide variety of industries.

Navigos Group

15th Floor Sun Wah Tower

115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3827 8000 www.navigosgroup.com

Recruitment agency offering a complete portfolio of HR services including executive search, HR advisory, training, online recruitment, and print recruitment advertising.

asian Tigers Transpo nternational

346 Ben Van Don, D4 Tel: 3945 0891 www.asiantigersgroup.com

Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com

UTS Saigon Van intl’ Relocations Unit 1303, HUD Buillding, 159 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 3629 www.saigonvan.com

JVK international Movers 1st Floor, Saigon Port Building 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 Tel: 3826 7655/6 chris.honour@jvkasia.com

Mekong emerald (MeK) Relocation 1st Floor Hoa Lam Office Building 2 Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 6290 9394 www.mekongem.com

Resident Vietnam 187/9/1 Bach Dang, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 8443 / 3848 8285 www.residentvietnam.com

Santa fe Relocation Services 8th Floor, Thien Son Building 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com

UniGroup Worldwide UTS Vietnam 440/26A Tran Hung Dao, D5 Tel: 3836 3002 www.unigroupworldwide.com

UTS Saigon Van 31C Ly Tu Trong, D1 www.saigonvan.com

ASIAN TIGERS

uninsured in a foreign land

Many foreigners are unaware of the risks of being uninsured abroad. Ginny Becker speaks to the experts about the importance of having comprehensive health coverage in Vietnam. Photo by Fred Wissink

Although insurance premiums in Vietnam are more affordable than people may think, foreigners whose jobs don't provide medical benefits often don't purchase insurance on their own. Let's face it—none of us think an illness or accident that requires hospitalisation or a medical evacuation will happen to us. We're healthy, careful and just a bit too busy to concern ourselves with the worry. Right?

"We come across quite a few expats who don't have medical insurance," says Dr. Rafi Kot, General Director of Family Medical Practice. According to Dr. Kot, these foreigners fall into two categories.

"Many people come from countries where the government picks up the cost, so their participation is minimal. They get used to it, but then move to another country and don't even think about getting insurance. The other group are people who say, 'It will never happen to me', when actually, almost everything happens to them."

Dr. Jean Marcel Guillon, Director of FV Hospital also sees his share of uninsured foreigners at FV.

"Running a hospital, I've seen countless cases of expats without insurance,” says Dr. Guillon. “Everybody is at the mercy of having a motorbike or car accident and without insurance they have to pay out of pocket.”

The cost of purchasing an insurance policy, says Dr. Guillon, is minimal compared to the cost of a hospital stay. "Generally speaking, you're not going to be turned away from a hospital if there is an emergency. They’ll take care of you, but you will have to pay for it and you can end up with debts.”

Costly Misperceptions

If the dangers are real, why do so many expats take the risk of remaining uninsured?

It seems some foreigners hold a false sense of security that medical care can be obtained back in their home country if the need arises, not taking into account that they may be physically unable to travel.

Others assume that insurance obtained in their home country will automatically provide coverage abroad. And of course, money factors into the equation—foreigners often feel it's cost-prohibitive to take on an additional expense, especially for something they may not use.

Adding to the ranks of uninsured are expats who incorrectly think their medical expenses will be paid for in an emergency, either by their government or with a travel insurance policy.

Dr. Marc Paquette, senior medical officer at International SOS says there is a common belief among foreigners that their consulate will help if they get sick.

"If a foreigner has no money or insurance, thinking that the consulate will take charge of everything is a big mistake,” says Dr. Paquette. “Many consulates will help to channel money from the patient's family back in their home country, but they will not cover your medical expenses."

Each consulate is different, but as a rule of thumb, it’s unsafe to assume that you'll walk away without having incurred out-of-pocket expenses.

Another common mistake is substituting travel insurance for a permanent insurance policy.

Travel insurance costs less, making it an attractive option for foreigners who don't view themselves as residents of their

host country, but many expats don't realise that after a set amount of time, their insurance company will re-classify them as residents.

“Policyholders think they're covered when they're actually not,” says Pascal Ho Ba Dam, director of IF Services, a local insurance and financial services firm. “As soon as you’re considered a resident of a country, which is anywhere between three months and six months, most travel insurance won’t cover you. The reason for this is because there are a different set of risks when you travel than when you’re a resident.”

If you currently hold travel insurance, read your policy carefully. Companies who sell travel insurance normally ask for a departure and return date when the policy is purchased, but it's not uncommon for this information to get lost in translation, leaving the policyholder unknowingly uninsured.

Getting Insured

"For expats living in Vietnam, it's critical to have insurance.

Things can be okay for awhile, but you never know when something can happen," says Do Quang Thuan, chief underwriting officer at Liberty Insurance.

Thuan says it's important to carry insurance with a range of benefits. "Go for extensive medical insurance with international standards that will get claims covered quickly and efficiently.”

Insurance companies that offer these services, says Thuan, are more likely to be familiar with billing procedures and the workings of medical providers and facilities, making it easier to access a higher level of customer service when it matters most.

"[P]eople who say, 'It will never happen to me' ... actually, almost everything happens to them."

Dr. Rafi Kot

“Medical, dental and emergency evacuation insurance can often be purchased under one plan, ensuring you'll have full coverage,” he adds.

Thuan also recommends choosing an insurance company with a direct billing network that partners directly with doctors, clinics and hospitals. With this system in place, it's easier to verify coverage and get prompt medical treatment without paying large sums of money up front and then trying to get reimbursed.

Know Your Policy

Dr Kot feels there's a perception that medical insurance is expensive, when in fact, not all plans cost a lot of money. He says that health insurance companies do operate within the country and that some packages are quite good. However, problems occur when expats don’t understand the product they're buying. Often they’re unsure about their policy’s coverage and the cost limits for emergencies and outpatient care.

Dr. Patrick Michaudel, country medical director of International SOS has seen a lot of patients who discover after it's too late that their medical coverage isn't as comprehensive as they believed it to be.

"One confusion people have is that they don't read their contract to know what's covered,” says Dr. Michaudel. “They need to know the definitions of an emergency and a medical evacuation and the terms and conditions and exclusions of their coverage."

Many policies offer an option for international coverage, but again, knowing the policy's limitations is crucial. Some foreign-

ers who purchase international coverage are surprised to learn that this additional benefit can’t be used at will; some policies have limitations that discourage patients from leaving the country for medical treatment if care is available locally, whether or not the local care is of comparable quality.

Choosing a Plan For foreigners who are uncertain about which insurance plan is best for them, Dr. Michaudel recommends looking for coverage that meets the standards of insurance plans back home. This guideline helps lessen the likelihood of any coverage surprises.

According to Pascal from IF Services, going through an insurance broker is also a good way to navigate the murky waters of choosing coverage. "A broker can help you figure out what type of policy is best for your needs," he says.

Pascal advises choosing a broker who offers a variety of insurance products. Limited options lessen the customer's chances of getting the best policy for their needs. He also advises caution when purchasing a policy over the Internet because it can be difficult to understand a policy's intricate jargon and legalise without assistance from an expert.

The big question for many is, “Do higher premiums mean better coverage?” Dr. Michaudel and Dr. Paquette both offer the following advice: shop around, but at the end of the day, you will get what you pay for.

"Medical insurance is a simple safety net that doesn't cost much,” says Dr Guillon. “Not having insurance can be a really costly mistake.”

3 Thang 2 C1

Alexandre de Rhodes B4

Ba Huyen Thanh Quan B1, B2, C2, C3

Ban Co C1

Ben Chuong Duong D4

Ben Van Don D4, D5

Bui Thi Xuan C3

Bui Vien D3

Cach Mang Thang Tam B1, C2, C3

Calmette D4

Cao Ba Nha D3

Cao Thang C1, C2, D2

Chu Manh Trinh B4, B5

Co Bac D3

Co Giang D3

De Tham D3

Dien Bien Phu A4, B3, B2, C1, C2

Dinh Cong Trang A3

Dinh Tien Hoang A3, A4, B4

Do Quang Dau D3

Do Thanh C1

Doan Nhu Hai D5

Doan Van Bo D4, D5

Dong Du C5

Dong Khoi B4, C4, C5

Hai Cua A5

Huynh Tinh Cua A2

Huynh Van Banh A1

Khanh Hoi D4

Ky Con A3, B3, B4, C5

Hai Trieu C5

Ham Nghi C4, C5

Han Thuyen B4

Ho Hao Hon D3

Ho Huan Nghiep C5

Ho Tung Mau C4, C5

Ho Xuan Huong B3, C2

Hoa Hung B1

Hoang Dieu D4, D5

Hung Vuong D1

Huyen Tran Cong Chua C3

Huynh Man Dat A5

Huynh Thuc Khang C4

Ky Dong B1, B2

Le Cong Kieu C4

Le Duan B4, B5

Le Hong Phong D1

Le Lai C3, C4, D3

Le Loi C4

Le Quoc Hung D4, D5

Le Quy Don B3

Le Thanh Ton B4, B5, C3, C4

Le Thi Hong Gam C4, D3, D4

Le Thi Rieng C3

Le Van Phuc A3

Le Van Sy B1, B2

Luong Huu Khanh C2, D2

Luu Van Lang C4

Ly Chinh Thang A2, B2

Ly Thai To D1

Ly Tu Trong B4, B5, C4, C5

Mac Dinh Chi A3, B4

Mac Thi Buoi C5

Mai Thi Luu A4

Mai Van Ngoc A1

Me Linh A5

Nam Ky Khoi Nghia A2, B2, B3, C4, D4

Ngo Duc Ke C5

Ngo Thoi Nhiem B2, C2

Ngo Van Nam B5

Nguyen Binh Khiem A4, A5, B5

Nguyen Cong Tru D4

Nguyen Cu Trinh D2, D3

NguyenDinhChieu A4,B3,B4,C1,C2,C3

Nguyen Dinh Chinh A1

Nguyen Du B4, C3, C4

Nguyen Hai Tu A4

Nguyen Hue C4, C5

Nguyen Huu Canh A2

Nguyen Huu Canh B5

Nguyen Huu Cau A3

Nguyen Khac Nhu D3

Nguyen Khoai E3

Nguyen Ngoc Phuong A5

Nguyen Phi Khanh A3

Nguyen Sieu B5, C5

Nguyen Son Ha C2

Nguyen Tat Thanh D5

Nguyen Thai Binh C4, D4

Nguyen Thai Hoc C3, D3, D4

Nguyen Thi Dieu C2, C3

Nguyen Thien Thuat C1, D1, D2

Nguyen Thong B1, B2, C2

Nguyen Thuong Hien C2

Nguyen Trai C3, D2

Nguyen Trung Truc C4

Nguyen Truong To D4, D5

Nguyen Van Cu D2

Nguyen Van Hai A3

Nguyen Van Lac A5

Nguyen Van Thu A4, B3, B4

Nguyen Van Troi A1

Pasteur B2, B3, B4, C4

Pham Hong Thai C2, C3

Pham Ngoc Thach B3

Pham Ngu Lao C3, C4, D3

Pham Viet Chanh A5

Pham Viet Chanh D2

Phan Dinh Phung A2

Phan Ke Binh A4

Phan Van Han A4, A5

Pho Duc Chinh C4, D4

Phung Khac Khoan B3, B4

Suong Nguyet Anh C2, C3

Tan Vinh D4

Thach Thi Thanh A3

Thai Van Lung B5

Thi Sach B5

Thu Khoa Huan C4

Ton Duc Thang B5, C4, C5, D4

Ton That Dam C4

Ton That Thiep C4

Ton That Tung C2, C3

Tran Binh Trong D1

Tran Canh Chan D2

Tran Cao Van B4

Tran Dinh Xu D2, D3

Tran Hung Dao C4, D2, D3

Tran Khac Chan A3

Tran Khanh Du A2, A3

Tran Minh Quyen C1

Tran Minh Quyen B1

Tran Nhan Ton D1

Tran Nhat Duat A3

Tran Phu D1

Tran Quang Dieu A1, A2

Tran Quang Khai A3, A2

Tran Quoc Thao B2, B3

Tran Quoc Toan A2, A3, B2

Tran Van Dang B1, B2

Truong Chinh B3

Truong Dinh B2, C3

Tu Xuong B2, B3, C2

Vinh Khanh D4, D5

Vo Thi Sau A3, B2, B3

Vo Van Tan B3, C2, C3

Vuon Chuoi C2

Xo Viet Nghe Tinh A4, A5

Yersin D4

CachMangThangTam

DISTRICT 3 D RICT ISTSTRICT S

Tran

PhamNgocThach

PhamNgocThach

MacDinhChiNguyenDinhChieuNguyenVanThu PhanKeBinhMaiThiLuu

DinhTienHoang

XoVietNgheTinh

TonDucThang

Pasteur

NguyenTrungTrucThuKhHuan HuyenTranCongChua

DongKhoi

NguyenTrungTrucThuKhHuan HuyenTranCongChua DongKhoi

PhamVietChanh LuongHuuKhanhTonThatTung LeThiR eng SuongNguyetAnh

LeThiR eng SuongNguyetAnh

PhamVietChanh LuongHuuKhanhTonThatTung

NguyenTraiLeLai

Pham Ngu Lao

DoQDau CongQuynh

Nguyen Trai

BuiVien

DeTham

LeThiHongGamNguyenThaiBinh PhoDucChinh KyCon ChuManhTrinh NgoVanNam MacDinhChiNguyenDinhChieuNguyenVanThu PhanKeBinhMaiThiLuu Tran

ChuManhTrinh NgoVanNam

NguyenTrai

CoBac NgKhNhu CaoBaNhaTranDinhXu

TranDinhXu

Tran TranHungDao

CanhChan ChuaPhatAn

CanhChan ChuaPhatAn

ThaiVanLung Ng SieuCaoBaQuatThiSach CoGiang

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this month in history

failure to launch

Getting suspicious after attending multiple farewell parties for one individual? Jason

Page explains the signs of goodbye greed. Photo by fred Wissink.

On a recent stop at my watering hole, I was surprised to find two of my mates nursing beers in their regular seats, despite the fact that they’d left HCM City two months prior, bound for a round-the-world trip before making their way back to the United Kingdom. Apparently, somewhere in Australia, they decided to cash in their tickets and return to Vietnam.

It was by far the most spectacular case of failure to launch I have yet witnessed during my tenure in HCM City.

By now I’ve lost count of how many aborted goodbye parties I’ve attended, how many drinking buddies and coworkers I’ve bid adieu, only to relive the whole process days, weeks or months later. At first I chalked it up to some strange sentimen-

tal attachment people develop to HCM City, but then these “goodbyes” became epidemic, and now I think I know what’s going on.

I am being made a fool of. I am getting hosed. These people are extorting me for free drinks and kind speeches at goodbye parties. And you know what?

The gravy train has run its last service, people.

Think about it. Why do so few goodbye parties take place at the guest of honour’s house?

I’ll tell you why. The bags are not packed. The drawers have not been emptied. You will find the kitchen fully stocked with Laughing Cow wedges and banana candy.

So how do you tell if you’re being taken for a ride? Clearly, you don’t want to be spread-

ing unfounded rumours over highballs while everyone else is reminiscing about vacations in Mui Ne and trips to Dam Sen Park. However, there are ways to confirm your suspicions.

I suggest you inquire where the soon-to-be departed rents his or her motorbike, citing your need for new wheels. If your question is met with an offer to turn over the keys, it’s a good sign. If not, you need to find their motorbike guy.

Employers, coworkers, roommates, landlords—these are the people you need to find before you shell out for a bottle of Johnny Walker Black Label. If the sending off becomes a weeklong event, you should be on high alert. A string of goodbye get-togethers—picnics, dinners, 48-hour benders—it’s

an almost sure sign of goodbye greed. These people will tell you they’re just trying to accommodate everyone’s schedule, but they are not to be trusted. You will almost certainly see them in line at Highlands or leafing through DVDs at the Tax Center next week.

Even if you have evidence incriminating the offender, I strongly advise against making a scene amidst the festivities. You are, however, well within your rights to ply them with shots of Wall Street whiskey and cocktails made from Hanoi Vodka. If you have to endure the bitter taste of their lies, they can suffer the biblical hangover. And since you know they’re not actually leaving, you’ll have the pleasure of witnessing the aftermath.

Tiananmen Square, Magna Carta, Korean War and more

June 1, 1926

Marilyn Monroe's Birthday

Norma Jean Mortensen/Baker (aka Marilyn Monroe) is born in Los Angeles, California. After a difficult childhood spent in foster homes, she forges a successful film career, gaining recognition for Gentlemen Prefer Blondes (1953) and The Seven Year Itch (1955). The starlet dies from an overdose of barbiturates in 1962, although controversy surrounds the cause of her death.

June 3, 1989

Ayatollah Khomeini Dies

After 15 years in exile, Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini returns to Iran in 1979. This leader of the Islamic revolution becomes a household name later that year when loyalists to his cause seize 66 hostages at the American Embassy in Tehran, sparking an international crisis that will last 14 months. Khomeini dies from internal bleeding in 1989 at age 86.

June 4, 1989

Tiananmen Square Massacre

The Chinese government orders troops to open fire on unarmed student protesters mourning the death of Hu Yaobang, a prodemocracy leader. The protest first begins on April 16, eventually escalating to the People's Army attacking students in and around Tiananmen Square with machine guns, clubs and tear gas. An accurate death toll is never determined, but various reports state that anywhere between 300 and 6,000 civilian were killed.

June 15, 1215

Magna Carta is Signed

King John of England signs the Magna Carta, a legal charter that guarantees basic rights to all free men of England and lays the groundwork for future historic legal documents, including the United States Constitution and the Bill of Rights. The charter is created to address ongoing disagreements among King John, his barons and Pope Innocent III about the extent of the king's power.

June 23, 1956

Nasser Elected President of Egypt Gamal Abdel Nasser leads Egypt to secular independence in the 1950s and becomes the first president of the Republic of Egypt. Popular for his Arab nationalist and anti-colonial foreign policy, he attempts to modernise Egypt and create a secular Arab empire in northern Africa and the Middle East. Nasser serves as president of Egypt until his death in 1970 from a heart attack.

June 25, 1950

Start of Korean War

Civil unrest in Korea turns into a full-blown war that draws the Soviet Union and United States into the conflict. In 1953, a peace treaty is signed at Panmunjom, formally dividing Korea at the 38th parallel into North and South Korea. The war is viewed as a global military challenge from the Communist world. Despite the treaty, the Cold War continues for nearly 40 more years.

Mr. DeMille!"

Photo by Guy Gonyea.

Pub Quiz

General Knowledge

1. Hercules of Greek myth completed how many trials?

2. If you play the flugelhorn, what section of an orchestra do you belong to?

3. How many years are in a score?

4. What New York City avenue is synonymous with the American advertising industry?

5. A story that gives human characteristics to animals, plants, inanimate objects or forces of nature is called what?

World History

6. What French monarch was popularly known as the Sun King?

7. In what year did stocks crash on Wall Street, leading to the worldwide Great Depression?

8. The Berber people hail from what continent?

9. During the First Sino-Japanese War, China and Japan fought to control what country?

10. What European power established history’s first global empire in the 16th century?

Sports

11. What two Major League baseball teams moved into new stadiums at the start of the 2009 season?

12. Athletes Bob Burnquist, Chad Muska and Bucky Lasek compete in what sport?

13. The game of polo originated in which modern-day Middle Eastern country?

14. Nearly 60 countries boycotted the 1980 Moscow Olympics to protest what action by the USSR government?

15. Ronaldo began his professional career with which Brazilian football team?

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Entertainment

16. What is the highest grossing film trilogy of all time?

17. What British record label signed New Wave bands Human League, Culture Club and Simple Minds in the 1980s?

18. Johnny Depp co-starred in the first instalment of which classic horror movie series?

19. Which British soap opera follows the lives of the inhabitants of the fictional borough Walford?

20. Who is the only recording artist to provide the title song for more than one James Bond film?

Geography

21. What canal, completed in 1869, allowed for water transportation between Europe and Asia without circumnavigating Africa?

22. Besides Scandinavian countries Norway, Sweden and Denmark, what other two nations belong to the Nordic Council?

23. What is the largest country by area in Africa?

24. How many provinces make up Canada?

25. In what geographic region will you find the Magellanic forests, Cape Horn and Tierra del Fuego?

The Web

26. Who is widely credited with inventing the world wide web?

27. What media tycoon purchased social-networking website MySpace for $580 million in 2005?

28. Google’s California headquarters is known by what name?

29. When it first launched, Facebook membership was limited to students from what Ivy League college?

30. The “http” in web addresses stands for what?

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Special thanks to Hanh

this issue.

Trinh, Ha My, Daniel DeGrood, Emily Huckson, Paul McLardie, Douglas Perras, Lloyd Morgan, Hasan John Wafi, Alison Lapp, Guy Gonyea, Karen Tong, Nam Quan, Galen Stolee and Nicole Hankins for their contribution to

Prices dropping, owners willing to negotiate, tenants moving out

you’ve heard about it too For the same rent, why not aim for something better?