REFURBISHED & REFRESHED
FERNHILL HOUSE CELEBRATES
200TH ANNIVERSARY WITH MAJOR EXPANSION
Ashford Castle’s Niall Rochford embarks on 250km charity walk
Kai’s JESS MURPHY on championing local produce and putting herself on the page
GRACE O’CONNOR is setting new standards at Park Hotel Kenmare
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Expressions of Interest
14
“Choosing which recipes to include in the book was easy. The hard part was doing justice to the food producers, customers and sta that have helped Kai and continue to do so. It’s all about them really.”
Jess Murphy, Owner and Chef, Kai
09
Ashford Castle’s Niall Rochford is embarking on a 250km charity walk in memory of his late wife, Stella
19
Fernhill House is marking 200 years with 16 new bedrooms and a new outdoor space
Grace O’Connor is setting a new standard at Park Hotel Kenmare
Nick Wright on how Bailies’ direct trade approach has seen the coffee roaster flourish
The Cow Pub & Kitchen Restaurant Manager on customer service and changing with the times 12 26
Hoteliers that adopt AI will boost profit, while offering guests an elevated experience
28
Arun Nayak on a meal that evoked a sense of connection to his past
Editor: Denise Maguire
Creative Director: Jane Matthews
Art Director: Lenny Rooney
Stock Photography: iStock
Infographics: www.flaticon.com
Production: Claire Kiernan
Sales Director: Trish Murphy
Managing Director: Gerry Tynan
Chairman: Diarmaid Lennon
Published by:
Ashville Media,
Unit 55 Park West Road, Park West Industrial Estate, Dublin 12, D12 X9F9. Tel: (01) 432 2200
ISSN: 0332-4400
All rights reserved. Every care has been taken to ensure that the information contained in this magazine is accurate. The publishers cannot, however, accept responsibility for errors or omissions. Reproduction by any means in whole or in part without the permission of the publisher is prohibited. © Ashville Media Group 2025. All discounts, promotions and competitions contained in this magazine are run independently of Hotel & Catering Review. The promoter/ advertiser is responsible for honouring the prize.
Editor: Denise Maguire
Email:
denise.maguire@ashvillemediagroup.com
Welcome to issue 8 of Hotel & Catering Review 2025
In Jess Murphy’s new cookbook – The Kai Cookbook / A Love Letter to the West of Ireland – current and former staff members are acknowledged for the role they’ve played in making Kai the success story it is today. Holding on to those valued members of staff isn’t easy; many of them can’t find accommodation. A recent report in the Connacht Tribune outlined how serious infrastructural deficiencies in housing and transport are threatening indigenous industries in Galway, particularly businesses in hospitality and retail. It’s a challenge shared by many across the county and indeed the country, but that doesn’t make it any easier to bear. Some staff members end up living in Jess’ house until they find accommodation, while others are forced to leave the city. It is, she says, a constant state of uncertainty. “There are so many amazingly talented people out there but if there’s nowhere for them to live, what then? The housing crisis means we’re all missing out.” For more, turn to page 14.
Elsewhere in this issue, we caught up with Michael O’Neill at Fernhill House Hotel and Gardens. Next year the Georgian estate is celebrating its 200th anniversary and to mark it, a major refurbishment was recently unveiled consisting of 16 new bedrooms, a bridal styling lounge and The Fernery – a glass-walled event space set within the gardens. On page 22 Park Hotel Kenmare’s new GM, Grace O’Connor, talks about the two Michelin Keys recently awarded to the hotel and on page 24, Nick Wright at Bailies talks about how the coffee roaster’s direct trade approach has seen the company flourish.
As always, there’s plenty to enjoy in this issue. If you have any thoughts or opinions on this month’s content, please do drop us a line.
Pictured (back row l to r): Mark Donald, The Glenturret Lalique Restaurant, Scotland; Gareth Mullins, Anantara The Marker; Christina Blevins, Row on 5, London; John Kelly, Lady Helen Restaurant, Mount Juliet; Conor Halpenny, Square; with Joseph Quane, Allta; Nell McCarthy, dede; Maaike Venema, The Bishop’s Buttery, Cashel Palace; David Harte, The Sea Rooms at Kelly’s
David Harte, a chef at The Sea Rooms at Kelly’s, has been named the EuroToques Young Chef of the Year 2025, while Elizabeth Dunphy from The Bishop’s Buttery at Cashel Palace won the inaugural Rising Pastry Chef of the Year Competition, presented by La Rousse Foods. Mentored by Chris Fulham, David impressed judges at the finale with two dishes – a main course of Winetavern farm pork, potato cake, black pudding, cauliflower, blackberry, black garlic, a side dish of Mayan gold, cabbage, buttermilk and a dessert of Sissy red apples, skyr, honey and oats. The Rising Pastry Chef of the Year Competition, which took place in September at Crumlin College, was created to celebrate and nurture Ireland’s emerging pastry talent. Six finalists from across the country competed in a final that called for “Classics Reimagined using Irish Ingredients.” Elizabeth's winning dish – “Not your typical apple tart” – featured roasted apple, apple curd, blackberry gel and almond ice-cream.
Elizabeth Dunphy, winner of the Rising Pastry Chef of the Year competition
» DAVID HARTE (WINNER)
The Sea Rooms at Kelly’s
» JOSEPH QUANE Allta
» MAAIKE VENEMA
The Bishop’s Buttery at Cashel Palace
» NELL MCCARTHY dede
Following a multi-million euro investment by MKN Property Group, Moxy Dublin Docklands has opened its doors. With 183 bedrooms featuring floor-to-ceiling windows, co-working spaces, a library, 24/7 gym and dedicated ironing room, the 15 storey hotel is, says MKN, bringing a fresh energy to the city’s hotel scene. “We are thrilled to welcome guests to Moxy Dublin Docklands. From the sweeping skyline views to our atmospheric lobby and bar, we’ve created a space that reflects the energy of Dublin’s Docklands while giving travellers everything they need – whether they’re here for business, a concert, or simply to explore the city,” said General Manager Sinead Derham.
McCaughey Foods was named Supplier of the Year at Sysco Ireland’s awards ceremony, held during its annual Ignite ’26 Supplier Conference. The award celebrated the family-run business’ 15-year partnership with the foodservice company.
Chef Patron Kevin Burke and his team at Library Street are set to take over Canopy Restaurant at Castlemartyr Resort for a special one-night-only culinary takeover on 27 November. “We’ve created something special at Library Street. It’s a team effort; everyone contributes to the menus and the atmosphere. This event is a chance for us to bring that energy and approach to a new audience in an incredible setting. For us, it’s about more than just the food, it’s the whole experience,” said Kevin Burke. Formerly Head Chef at Michelinstarred The Ninth in London and more recently at Dublin’s Allta, Kevin took over Library Street in 2023. The menu focuses on seasonal Irish ingredients and dishes designed to be shared, from fresh-baked sourdough baguette with Abernathy butter, to flaggy shore oyster and Bourgoin verjus, crispy rabbit and fondant potatoes.
Noel Enright has joined the team at The Killarney Park as Head Chef. Originally from Limerick and a graduate of the BA in Culinary Arts, Noel’s career has seen him lead The Lake Hotel in Killarney to numerous awards, culminating in his own recognition as Chef of the Year at the 2024 Gold Medal Awards. Now, he brings his creativity and leadership to The Killarney Park, which he describes as “the most exciting hospitality project Kerry has seen in a decade.”
The Montenotte has announced the appointment of Martin Lovell as Executive Chef. With more than 25 years’ experience in Ireland, New York and Michelin-starred kitchens, Martin is set to elevate Panorama and every dining touchpoint at The Montenotte. For the first time, the dinner menu in Panorama now features a 'From the Grill' section, showcasing three premium Irish beef cuts and a Cauliflower Steak as the vegetarian option. Another addition is the new 'Bites & Delights' menu, available at Panorama's bar and Panorama Terrace, featuring dishes such as Rossmore Oysters with Mignonette and Tabasco.
This November, The Hoxton will open its doors in the restored Central Hotel building on Dublin’s Exchequer Street. The hotel will include 129 rooms, a lobby complete with bar and Viking-era ruins, an all-day Peruvian-inspired restaurant, sandwich spot by day and natural wine bar by night Dollars and Groundwork, The Hoxton’s first ever nightlife venue. The Library Bar will also reopen and will, says the hotel, “honour its rich history with traditional furniture and dark timber finishes to breathe new life into the local landmark.”
Food experience company Galway Food Tours has expanded into the Marble City. Founder Sheena Dignam says the expansion reflects the company’s commitment to celebrating Ireland’s independent restaurants, pubs, bars and food producers, while creating unforgettable experiences where they operate. “Kilkenny has an incredible reputation for creativity, food and hospitality. We are thrilled to work with local restaurants, pubs, bars and producers to showcase the very best of the city and to add a new dimension to its thriving food culture.”
The Irish Hotels Federation (IHF) welcomed the VAT reduction for food services as part of Budget 2026. IHF President Michael Magner said: “The lower 9% VAT rate is a crucial intervention for struggling food service businesses the length and breadth of the country at a time of enormous challenges and unsustainable increases in operating costs. This measure goes a long way toward putting Irish tourism on a more stable footing, aligning Ireland’s VAT rate for hospitality food services with the majority of our European competitors. This is essential given the significant social and economic contribution our industry makes, supporting over 270,000 livelihoods. More than 70% of these roles are outside Dublin, making our industry a key driver of regional employment, economic diversification and rural development.”
Kasia Riebandt has taken up the role of General Manager at Ballyfin Demesne. Most recently, Kasia served as General Manager at the Park Hotel Kenmare and has also worked at The Lansdowne Kenmare, Sheen Falls Lodge and Trump International Golf Links & Hotel. “I am honoured to join Ballyfin Demesne as General Manager. It is a privilege to lead a world-renowned property and I look forward to working with the team to further enhance the exceptional guest experience for which Ballyfin is celebrated,” she said.
In September, Galway County Council and the BIA Innovator Campus hosted European partners from the Interreg Europe Slowdown project, an initiative aimed at promoting slow tourism. The project’s main aim is to enhance regional policies to support and develop slow tourism, contributing to local economic growth and fostering more responsible tourism across Europe. The delegation, which consisted of representatives from nine European countries, toured East Galway to meet local food producers and explore heritage sites, before travelling to Connemara to plan pilot projects, visit Killary Fjord, Renvyle and Clifden. The programme concluded with an Interregional Steering Group meeting at Kylemore Abbey and a visit to Spiddal Village. Galway County Council Tourism Officer John Neary highlighted that slow tourism is a central theme of the County Galway Tourism Strategy 2023-2031, the first-ever tourism strategy for the county. “The strategy promotes sustainable, immersive tourism experiences that allow visitors to engage with Galway’s cultural and natural heritage. Our goal is to encourage longer, more meaningful visits, support local communities and reduce environmental pressures.”
Earlier this year, Tourism Ireland launched the ‘Ireland Unrushed’ global campaign, positioning Ireland as the perfect destination to slow down and connect with nature, culture and communities. Based on the insight that 80% of overseas visitors who choose non-sun holidays are seeking a sense of exploration on their trips, the campaign was expected to reach over 70 million people. The slow tourism market is growing; in 2023, it was valued at approximately $2.86 trillion, with projections of over 15% year-on-year growth.
Founded in Cork in 2025 by Ais and Daniel, Still Suain designs products that make winding down easier and nights more peaceful. The range includes silk pillowcases and eye masks, made from the highest grade 23 momme mulberry silk, sourced from GOTS certified suppliers. Additional products include ear plugs and other sleep-related accessories.
The team at The Killarney Park Hotel have reason to celebrate, after receiving four accolades and awards in succession. September began strongly with the hotel’s inclusion in the Irish Independent’s Hot 100 List, followed by the Digital Excellence Award from Leading Hotels of the World. In early October, the hotel was ranked as the No. 4 Best Hotel in Ireland by US readers in the Condé Nast Traveller Readers’ Choice Awards 2025 while locally, the hotel was named the overall winner in this year’s Killarney Looking Good Awards 2025. It has also retained its One Michelin Key. Managing Director Marcus Treacy said: “We are incredibly proud to be recognised across such a diverse range of platforms, from digital innovation and guest experience to global acclaim. These awards stand as a testament to the dedication of our team and the warmth of our welcome.”
Wicklow-based roastery McCabe’s Coffee scooped a three-star award at this year’s Great Taste Awards. The accolade was awarded to Blend 15, making it one of Ireland’s most highly recognised coffees of 2025. “This recognition means the world to us. Our goal has always been to make outstanding coffee more accessible while staying true to our values of quality, care and sustainability. The fact that customers can order directly from our roastery in Wicklow and enjoy these blends at home makes the achievement even more rewarding,” said Managing Director, Stephen McCabe.
Park Hotel Kenmare has appointed Elaine O’Halloran as its new Director of Sales & Marketing. Elaine has worked at Castlemartyr Resort, College Green Hotel (formerly The Westin) and The Dylan. She’ll be leading the charge when it comes to sales, marketing and business development at Park Hotel Kenmare and is a firm believer in creating memorable guest experiences and working with local producers, craftspeople and community groups.
In October, well known hotelier Niall Rochford of Ashford Castle embarked on a 12 day, 250km walk from Cork to Cong in Co Mayo, to raise funds and awareness for pancreatic cancer.
The Cork2Cong Challenge was created in memory of Niall’s late wife, Stella, who was born in Cork and studied at UCC. Tragically, Stella passed away from pancreatic cancer in 2022, just eight weeks following her diagnosis.
Starting on October 28th from Honan Chapel in UCC, Niall will follow a path that mirrors the journey of Stella’s life. From Cork city, he’ll head to Limerick and Clare, where he and Stella met and welcomed their first child. He will then continue on to Galway where their family grew, before finally arriving on November 8th in Cong, Co Mayo, the place they called home and where Stella is now laid to rest.
Niall is inviting members of the public, friends and family to support him along the route or take their own ‘Steps for Action’ to help raise funds for Pancreatic Cancer Ireland, a new charity co-founded by Niall, earlier this year.
Sporting legends including Katie Taylor and David O’Leary have pledged their support by way of video messages, which will be posted on pancreaticcancerireland.ie and on Instagram @pancreaticcancerireland
Ashford Castle’s Niall Rochford is embarking on a 250km charity walk in memory of his late wife, Stella
The Cork2Cong Challenge not only retraces Stella’s life story but also highlights the urgent need for greater awareness of pancreatic cancer, a disease that affects more than 600 people in Ireland each year and tragically claims the lives of five out of six patients diagnosed.
Pancreatic Cancer Ireland was cofounded earlier this year by Niall, along with Rachel Duquesnois and Pamela Deasy, whose lives have been deeply impacted by the disease.
Speaking ahead of the challenge, Niall said: “This walk is deeply personal to me
and I know Stella will be with me every step of the way. Pancreatic Cancer Ireland was founded because we need more awareness of this devastating disease and crucially, we need a rapid diagnosis centre here in Ireland. This challenge is about raising funds to make those goals a reality. Every donation, no matter the size, makes a difference but if you can’t donate, please help us by spreading the word. Ireland has an incredible spirit of community and I’m looking forward to meeting people along my 250km journey. I know I’ll find strength in that support as I make this journey in Stella’s memory.”
To make a donation, go to: https://www.idonate.ie/event/Cork2Cong
For more information on pancreatic cancer and to view the Cork2Cong route, visit www.pancreaticcancerireland.ie/cork2cong Follow @pancreaticcancerireland on Instagram to follow Niall’s journey; #Cork2Cong #EveryStepCounts
Inspired by a trip to New York, CIARA SHINE’S stir-fry sardine recipe combines healthy veg with crispy fish
I first saw this dish in a kitchen in NYC while visiting my sister. We had gifted some Irish sardines to her colleagues. One of the chefs started to cook a small selection of stir-fry veggies. When the vegetables were ready, he put them on a plate and turned the heat on the wok right up. Then, he did something I’d never seen before. He emptied the full tin of sardines into the pan, oil and all, then tossed them around until the sardines got crisp, before putting them on top of the veggies. It looked incredible and tasted even better! This recipe is basically a stir fry without having to prep or cook another fish or meat. I love this dish because it's super-fast to prepare and a healthy option – the ideal combination in today's fast-paced society.
Ingredients
• 2 or 3 nests of dried egg noodles
• A good splash of sesame oil
• 1 red onion, thinly sliced
• 1 red pepper, thinly sliced
• 1 green pepper, thinly sliced
• 1 handful of baby corn, halved lengthways
• 1 handful of green beans or mangetout (optional)
• 1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
• 1 thumb-sized piece of fresh ginger, grated (or a pinch of ground ginger)
• Pinch of chilli flakes (optional)
• 1 tin of Shines Wild Irish Sardines in olive oil
• 1 tbsp sesame seeds
• 1 lime, cut into wedges
• Achill Island Sea Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Stir fries come together fast, so prep all the veg first to have them ready to go. Cook the egg noodles according to the packet instructions, then drain and set aside.
• Heat a good splash of sesame oil in a wok or a large frying pan on a medium-high heat. I like to start by softening the onion first for a few minutes, then adding the peppers, baby corn, garlic and ginger. Continue to stir-fry the vegetables until you’re happy with the texture. Season to taste with salt and pepper and a pinch of chilli flakes (if using), then transfer to a plate and set aside.
• Turn up the heat to high. Tip the entire tin of sardines into the wok or pan, including the oil, and add the sesame seeds for a little crunch. Cook for 2-3 minutes until the sardines are crispy and warmed through.
• To serve, add the veg back to the pan along with the cooked noodles. Toss everything together, then divide between two plates and serve with the lime wedges for squeezing over.
Your voucher shop is another front door to your hotel and should be one of your easiest wins. BOOKASSIST outlines how you can make vouchers work for you
Let’s be honest, how much time do you really spend thinking about your hotel’s gift vouchers? For many hoteliers, they can be an afterthought. But here’s the problem – a clunky voucher system doesn’t just look bad; it actively frustrates potential customers and costs you in lost opportunities.
A great voucher strategy should be one of your easiest wins. It’s a simple way to build your brand, delight guests, and seriously boost your bottom line. Here’s how to make it work for you.
THE HIDDEN MONEY IN GIFT VOUCHERS
To get the most out of vouchers, you need to see them as a strong commercial tool, not just a seasonal extra. The numbers speak for themselves. Think the gift voucher market is small? Think again. It’s growing at 12-15% every single year. During the Christmas rush, one in every two gifts purchased is a voucher. Tapping into that gives you a direct line to a massive market. More importantly, it brings new people to your hotel. Many voucher guests become loyal repeat customers, turning a simple gift into a lasting relationship.
Guests spend more – Around 70% of people using a voucher spend up to 40% more than its original value during their visit. It’s the perfect, natural upsell. Guaranteed revenue – On average, 15% of vouchers are never even used. That’s pure profit, straight to your bottom line. For top-performing hotels, vouchers regularly make up 5-10% of their total booking value. It’s a benchmark worth aiming for.
RIGHT USER EXPERIENCE MAKES ALL THE DIFFERENCE
Knowing vouchers are valuable is one thing; having the right tools is another. The technology you use is the difference between a headache and a high-performing revenue stream. Start with tools designed specifically for hotels, not generic systems.
This is clear proof that a better user experience directly translates to more revenue
Bookassist Vouchers for example was built to complement and be a component of your direct booking strategy, making the whole purchase , redemption and management process simple and profitable.
The key is to remove friction. Imagine a guest enjoying a beautiful, fully-branded online shopping experience that truly reflects your hotel’s quality. They can choose a cash amount or a special experience, like a spa day or dinner for two. They can shop with an equally rich experience on mobile, where statistics show that 58% of customers prefer to buy and use vouchers. They can even buy a physical voucher from your front desk for a last-minute gift. It’s all seamless. And the best part for you? We can get you up and running and selling vouchers in just seven days.
THE PROOF IS IN THE PERFORMANCE
Don’t just take our word for it. Look at what happened when hotels in Ireland made the switch. With no other changes to their marketing or pricing, the results were dramatic – a popular 4-star Dublin citycentre hotel saw its December voucher sales multiply by 2.5 times year on year when they made the switch to Bookassist Vouchers. A countryside getaway property, which already did well with vouchers, saw its sales jump by an incredible 88% year on year.
This is clear proof that a better user experience directly translates to more revenue.
At the end of the day, your voucher shop is another front door to your hotel. A poor experience there reflects on your entire brand. It’s time to stop letting a clunky system turn away customers.
Make it an experience they’ll love. Find out how at go.bookassist.org/vouchers
HOW IS BUSINESS GOING AT THE COW PUB & KITCHEN?
It’s good. The summer months were quiet enough, a lot of people in the surrounding area of Dublin 4 were away. Prices are also increasing all the time, especially for meat. We used to have fillet steak on the menu, but that’s gone absolutely astronomical. We’ve kept the rib eye – it’s small but slightly cheaper than the fillet. So there are plenty of challenges, but we’re very hopeful. We have an excellent menu and that’s something people are increasingly recognising.
HOW LONG HAVE YOU WORKED THERE?
I’m here nearly 15 years, back when it was The Chophouse. We opened during the recession so it should have been tough going, but it just took off instantly. It was fairly new in Dublin and very much a proper gastropub. Back then, lots of places called themselves gastropubs, but the quality of the food wasn’t there. We went to London and came back with great ideas which we implemented and that definitely helped. We even featured on Anthony Bourdain’s show, “The Layover”. That was great for business – I was told it was shown on flights coming in from the US. You can’t beat that kind of publicity.
WHAT’S YOUR BACKGROUND IN THE INDUSTRY?
I first started working in Foley’s on Baggot Street when I was around 20. I was collecting glasses and then became barman, then manager. I worked there for around 10 years, up to 2010. Then I moved to The Chophouse and in 2024, Moran Hospitality took over the business. Moran Hospitality is the family-owned group behind the Red Cow Moran Hotel and several other ventures. Since opening The Cow Pub & Kitchen, all the same
staff have been retained. The food we serve is of the highest quality and a separate bar area has been added, which we didn’t have before. So now, customers can enjoy a cocktail or beer before sitting down for dinner. I think the new bar will really come into its own over the Christmas period.
HAVE ANY OTHER CHANGES BEEN MADE?
The upstairs function room has been completely redone. That’s popular with corporates and weddings are becoming increasingly popular. I think it’s a space that’ll get busier as word gets out that it’s available. We’re only back open since March – we were closed from the 1st of February until the middle of March for renovations.
IS IT DIFFICULT TO FIND STAFF?
It’s not the easiest. There’s plenty of staff, but there’s not a lot of great staff. Since Covid, I think a lot of people have left the hospitality industry. We’re quite lucky with our team, although we’re looking for a couple of waiters at the moment. You have to be careful who you take on – they have to know their game. I train staff myself and there’s a certain way (the right way) I want things done.
SO CUSTOMER SERVICE IS IMPORTANT TO YOU?
Absolutely. I’m all about customer service. I’m not a man who just sits in the office. I’m the one out on the floor, cleaning and setting tables more than anyone else. Our ambition here is simple – we want to create a place where people feel at ease. It’s all about honest, good food, good hospitality and great energy. We’re the kind of place our customers will want to return to again and again.
Our ambition here is simple – we want to create a place where people feel at ease. It’s all about honest, good food, good hospitality and great energy
Kai’s JESS MURPHY on championing local produce and putting herself on the page
Every page of Jess Murphy’s new cookbook reveals a little bit of her soul. It wasn’t an easy process. “I never realised what it takes to write a book. I’m quite a confident chef, but I found that writing is a really private thing. I was putting all these thoughts and opinions down on paper – it was scary,” she says. The Kai Cookbook / A Love Letter to the West of Ireland was about two years in the making, written by Jess while she worked full-time in the Galway restaurant that she owns with her husband, David. It contains 100 recipes, divided up by season. “Choosing which recipes to include was easy; they all mean so much to me so I knew what I wanted to include from the start. The hard part was doing justice to the growers, food producers and customers that have helped Kai over the years and continue to do so. This book is about them really.”
It’s also about the staff that work at Kai, or used to. The recipe for Galwaystyle Khachapuri was inspired by Ika who worked his way up the Kai ladder, from dishwasher to chef. Jess describes opening her front door to him one cold, wet night, only to be handed a still-hot pot of Khachapuri – a traditional Georgian cheese bread dish from Ika’s home country. Later on in the book, Quick pickled nectarines with roast fennel & tapenade is a nod to former chef Hannah (Jess’ work wife), while ex-sous chef Dave is credited with coming up with the recipe for Roman Gnocchi. Food producers and growers also feature throughout the book – George and Hannah at Ballyhubbock Farm, Dave and Diana at Andarl Farm, Angus at An Garrai Glas and Ernie’s Fruit & Veg on Galway’s Sea Road all get a mention.
Staff and suppliers are the reason why Kai is a success, says Jess, and why the restaurant received a Bib Gourmand in 2017 and a Michelin Green Star earlier this year, awarded to restaurants for their sustainable practices.
Staff have shaped Kai, helping to mould it into a restaurant that people travel from across the world, not just the country, to visit. Retaining those staff members is difficult. “There’s just nowhere for them to live. You hear so much about the housing crisis in Dublin, but it’s just as bad in Galway. You can’t pay your staff enough to live in a house here when the rent is
I’m quite a confident chef, but I found that writing a book is a really private thing
€3,500 a month.” It’s a constant state of uncertainty; currently, one staff member may be about to leave if they can’t secure accommodation. “They’ve been with me for 10 years, but they just can’t find a place to live. Two other staff members are also looking for accommodation. Most of the time, they’ll move into my house until they find somewhere. At the moment I’m trialling chefs and they’re staying with us –there’s nowhere else for them to go. There are so many amazingly talented people out there but if there’s nowhere for them to live, what then? The housing crisis means we’re all missing out.”
With 25 staff members, the wage bill at Kai is substantial. Employees have always been paid above minimum wage, “otherwise, how are people going to go for a pint after work or buy a rotisserie chicken from a bougie supermarket on their day off?” Pensions are also offered to staff, long before “that was even a thing”. “I’ve been a chef since I was 16 so from the off I was like, right, whatever happened to me, I’m not going to do to other people.”
Food costs also continue to rise. Lamb didn’t make it onto the Kai menu this year; after game season, Jess turned to free-range pork from Andarl Farm instead. “I could be ordering maybe €600-700 worth of beef every day or every second day. The basics have also shot up – flour, bread, the cost of basic ingredients has increased hugely. I deal with four organic farms all the time and so I’m comparing prices constantly. With static ingredients like flour, there’s very little option around price but when one of the organic farmers gets a glut of something, it saves me money.” Keeping costs under control is a fulltime role. “I do this job because I love it, but I also have 25 people’s jobs on my head. I’m so conscious of having to support them and to do that, I need to constantly know which farm will give me the best deal on beetroot or Swiss chard or whatever it is.”
Good relationships, built up since Kai opened in 2011, have stood Jess in good stead. “I know how lucky I am to have these amazing producers practically on my doorstep. Living in the West of Ireland, I’m
I know how lucky I am to have these amazing producers practically on my doorstep. Living in the West of Ireland, I’m blessed
blessed. I’ve been working with many of these suppliers since day one. It’s so awful when one of them ends up closing – I rang one of them recently, asked the owner what he was up to and he said he had retired, no-one took over the business. When you see that happening and when you have a bad day, it’s hard not to think, what’s the point?
With food costs and rising prices, I’m just standing still. I’m not making any money and it’s not like I have any notions of grandeur. But I’d just like to have a bit of money in the bank and not have to worry every time a bill lands on the mat.”
Despite the challenges, Kai is busy. Revenue covers wages, tax and suppliers and after that, there’s nothing left. “I still have bucketloads of passion for this industry though. Like every time I see a pumpkin grown by a small farm or a farmer says to me, Jess we have loads of blackberries if you want them, that’s so special to me. So is teaching staff at Kai – it’s all about seeing their faces light up when they’ve made their first apple jelly or their first damson chutney.”
Will there be a second Kai cookbook?
“Maybe, when I stop rocking in a ball in the corner! But yes, there will be. I have no idea what it will be about yet; every idea I have doesn’t seem to make any sense. But anyway, I’m sure I’ll come up with something.”
It’s all about seeing their faces light up when they’ve made their first apple jelly or their first damson chutney
We’re delighted with how the rooms have turned out. They’re all five-star sized, they’re air conditioned and a number of them have their own gardens
FERNHILL HOUSE is marking its 200th anniversary with an extensive refurbishment
In 2026, Fernhill House Hotel and Gardens will celebrate its 200th anniversary. To mark the occasion, a major new refurbishment has just been unveiled, featuring 16 newly designed bedrooms, a bridal styling lounge and The Fernery – a glass-walled event space set within the gardens.
“We’re delighted with how the rooms have turned out. They’re all five-star sized, they’re air conditioned and a number of them have their own gardens. So they’re either looking out over the historic West Cork countryside where Michael Collins was born, or over gardens designed by Mary Reynolds,” says Michael O’Neill, fourth-generation proprietor of Fernhill.
With our weddings, we’ve rethought every aspect. We’ve focused on the flow of the wedding day, the feel of the rooms and how the spaces connect to the gardens
Sustainability and community are at the heart of the refurb; local suppliers and environmentally conscious materials were prioritised throughout. Solar panels are powering the expansion, while water is sourced from Fernhill’s own well. “We used 50 different West Cork suppliers on this project – the very best of West Cork craftsmanship has gone into the new additions.” Those new additions include a bridal styling lounge. “There are a few hotels that have one, but we believe ours is the biggest and best. It’s got its own champagne bar, a beautiful breakfast area, a photo wall, changing room, bathroom and separate hair and makeup stations. There’s also a private ‘Reveal Room’ for moments of calm before the wedding begins. We’ve collaborated with top beauty experts on the lounge; it’s another point of separation for us and an element of the refurbishment that really helps us stand out.”
Weddings are big business at Fernhill House. The refurbishment and in particular, the addition of The Fernery,
will take that business to the next level, says Michael. “With our weddings, we’ve rethought every aspect. We’ve focused on the flow of the wedding day, the feel of the rooms and how the spaces connect to the gardens. The goal was to give couples more space and more time and a place that feels personal. I think we’ve achieved that with The Fernery, which is a new, light-filled space in our gardens. It features floor-to-ceiling glass so it’s like you’re bringing nature into your celebration. It’s perfect for wedding ceremonies and for events like drink receptions.” A good wedding book for the year ahead brings certainty. “Our leisure guest business is good, but we’d like to grow it. Before the refurb, we talked to our tour operators to nail down what US guests really want and we’ve incorporated those elements into the new design. For US visitors, West Cork is off the track a little bit so we want to entice them down. The new bedrooms will definitely help.”
A gifting side to the business also boosts revenue, particularly over Christmas. Fernhill Garden Gin is a big seller, along with specially-made hampers, candles and diffusers. When Christmas weddings are added to the mix, the impact of January downtime isn’t felt as much. “It can be a long month, but it also gives us time to focus on further refurbishment and get ready for the next season.” The hotel business is a tough one to be in. “It’s not easy but I think it creates good people. You have to be on top of your game. With prices constantly going up and pressure from increased wages, I think it’s sometimes easy to forget the value
The goal was to give couples more space and more time and a place that feels personal. I think we’ve achieved that with The Fernery – a new, light-filled space in our gardens
that hotels and restaurants bring to communities around the country. There are also huge career development paths in this industry. That’s something we need to shout about more.”
It was always Michael’s intention to join the family business. After college, he worked in KPMG for a time but in 2008,
it was all hands to the pump. “A major expansion to the hotel had just been completed – it was the worst timing possible. We had taken on a massive amount of debt and were heading into the worst recession in memory. Now, I think of that time as a great grounding experience. Myself and my brothers worked together and tried to be as innovative as possible. My father just let us at it – we were thrown into it and had no choice but to make it work. Today, we’re in a great position because of that effort.”
After winning two Michelin Keys, Park Hotel Kenmare’s new GM is o to a flying start
I’ve only been at The Park since January and being awarded a Michelin Key was on my goal list for 2026. To get two this year is such an honour
It’s said that change is the only constant in the hospitality industry. Over the past few years, Park Hotel Kenmare has had its fair share of it. In 2023, Francis and John Brennan sold the five-star hotel to Irish businessman Bryan Meehan and earlier this year, a new General Manager was appointed. Those changes and ongoing upgrades to the hotel are paying off – in October the hotel was awarded two Michelin Keys, a distinction given to hotels that deliver an experience beyond the ordinary.
Michelin Keys are to hotels what Michelin stars are to restaurants. “I’ve only been at The Park since January and being awarded a Michelin Key was on my goal list for 2026. To get two this year is such an honour. We went to Paris hoping we might be awarded one – we were surprised but thrilled to get the two. Refurbishment works have been ongoing since Brian and his wife Tara took over at the end of 2023 and it’s great to see that being recognised,” said General Manager Grace O’Connor.
She attributes the win to a culture of authenticity that’s been fostered at the hotel. “I think we’re doing something different that reinforces a sense of place and belonging. I was recently on a trip to Copenhagen and had chosen to stay in a really beautiful hotel, thinking maybe I could get some inspiration for The Park. When I approached reception, the first words that greeted me were ‘passport and credit card’. I was instantly deflated. When I asked for recommendations on where to go in the city, I was handed a map. There was just no personal connection.” At Park Hotel Kenmare, check-in is very different. There is no desk at reception which, says Grace, immediately creates an open, inviting atmosphere. Guests are met with an arrival drink and there are no demands for a passport or credit card. “It’s straight into, how was your trip down, let us show you around the hotel. By creating this warm sense of place, we want the guest to feel like they’re walking into a home.”
People are the lifeblood of the hotel, she says, and part of the reason why it was awarded two Michelin Keys. “Philip, our Head Porter, has been with the hotel for 44 years and still walks in every day like it’s his first. F&B
Manager Louise Lynn has been with us for 18 years and she really connects the whole team. There’s a certain energy amongst our people that exudes a warmth and a welcome.”
Grace moved back to Ireland from Australia in 2024. She held the role of Hotel Manager at InterContinental Sydney for five years, “a huge 509-bedroom hotel, right in front of Sydney Opera House”. It was the first hotel to go into lockdown in 2020. “We ended up housing Australians coming back into the country. We did that for about eight months and then the owner decided to renovate the property. It was around that time that I started to miss home and that sense of community. In 2023, I came back for my sister’s wedding and paid a visit to The Park with my mother. We ended up going for lunch and a spa treatment and I remember turning to my mom and saying if I do end up moving home, this is the hotel I’m going to work for.” In 2024, Grace finally made the move back to Ireland. “The phone calls from recruiters started soon after and a month later, I was sitting with Brian and Tara discussing the GM role.”
Fast forward a few months and business is good at Park Hotel Kenmare. Grace has already put her own stamp on the hotel by recategorising bedrooms and increasing rates, while also upping the value-add for the guest. Domestic travel might be down in the US, but international travel was buoyant in Kenmare this summer. Visitor numbers were up at the hotel, with Americans still travelling to the southwest of Ireland, “which is great because they keep us busy and they’re not afraid to spend money”. In Sydney, Grace was working in a hotel with a 96% year-round occupancy. “We’re coming into shoulder season now and so that’s a big change for me. But it gives us a chance to reset
The phone calls from recruiters started soon after and a month later, I was sitting with Brian and Tara discussing the GM role
and decide what we want to achieve next year.” Renovation work is ongoing; 19 rooms have already been refurbished, with the remaining 24 due for a makeover in the next few months. The existing 25-year-old spa is, says Grace, also in need of a refresh. “We’ve decided to go with a knock and rebuild option. It’s a very exciting project and will include six new spa rooms facing Kenmare Bay and an outdoor thermal spa area embedded in the woodlands. We’re hoping it will be completed by summer 2026. I’m glad I made the move – there’s so much to look forward to at The Park.”
NICK WRIGHT on how Bailies’ direct trade approach has seen the coffee roaster flourish
Bailies Coffee Roasters was founded by Russell Bailie in Belfast in 1993. Over its 32 years, the company has grown and evolved in line with the coffee industry – a sector that has seen rapid transformation over the past couple of decades. So much so that research suggests coffee has taken over from tea as Ireland’s favourite brew. Over 75% of adults drink an average of three cups daily – good news for a roastery like Bailies that puts the focus on fair trade and sustainability.
Business is good at Bailies; over the past 18 months growth has been consistent north and south of the border and staff numbers are back up to pre-Covid levels. The coffee roaster supplies a host of different hospitality businesses including hotel groups, contract caterers, restaurants and independent specialty coffee shops. “We also supply a number of chain coffee shops. Over the years, we’ve grown and adapted with our customers. As trends have changed so have we. We might be around for a long time, but we’re constantly evolving,” says Nick Wright, Key Account Manager at Bailies.
All of Bailies’ operations are based in Belfast, under the one roof. That includes a training academy, providing Specialty Coffee Association accredited courses to professional baristas. “Our courses are designed to help baristas attain the qualifications they need to further their careers. We also offer courses intended to give baristas an extra edge, such as our sensory-focused and palate development courses that are built around tasting coffee
and assessing its quality. We tailor our courses to the individual to make sure they get what they need.” The home barista market has, says Nick, exploded over the past five years. “To cater to that growing segment, we also offer a range of courses for home baristas. We’ve seen a lot of growth in that area, the courses are really popular.”
About 10 years ago, the business went through a major rebrand, part of which included adopting a direct trade approach. Previously, Bailies had gone down the traditional sourcing route but with two decades of experience and supplier goodwill under its belt, it was time to go directly to the source. “The business had scaled up so it was viable to start exploring more of a direct trade approach. The thinking behind it was we wanted to be able to stand over our claims of quality. Initially, our target was to source 90% plus of coffee directly from producers. Over the past couple of years, that figure has increased to above 95%. We’ve cultivated some really unique, mutually beneficial relationships with producers.” As one of the very few roasters on the island of Ireland to adopt this approach, Bailies has developed a framework that outlines its commitment to producers. “An example from that framework is that anytime we establish a direct trade partnership, we look at the fair trade minimum price for coffee from that region and commit to paying a minimum of 30% above it. I think that clearly signals our intention that we want those relationships to be mutually beneficial, as well as long lasting.”
That financial commitment is paying off – the quality of the product is growing year on year, while producers are increasingly investing in staff and in sustainability practices. “We’re in a position where we can commit to large volume crops. That provides our producers with long-term support and security.”
Customers in the Republic of Ireland have grown over the past 10 to 15 years, particularly in Dublin but also stretching to Cork, Galway and Limerick. “It’s a big area of growth for us. There’s still parts of the Republic where we’re not that well-known, but there are pockets where we’re very wellknown, particularly around Greater Dublin. We’ve also got a growing customer base in the UK. It’s a competitive industry but our direct trade approach helps to differentiate us. The fact that we’ve been operating so long also means we can offer customers more of a holistic package.” A move into machinery and equipment sales has extended the roaster’s offering to customers. “We offer a varied range to meet the needs of our customers, whether it’s instant vends or a high spec espresso machines for specialty coffee shops. We also have an in-house engineering department, which is quite unique in the market.”
The commodity market for coffee may have levelled off in recent months but in the 12 months before that, the price of green coffee soared to unprecedented levels. It was a challenging time, says Nick. “It was tough for everyone but we were really encouraged by the resilience of the hospitality industry. Whether it’s lockdowns, pandemics or high coffee prices, the quality-focused operators have managed to maintain strong relationships with their customers and ride it out.” While customers are feeling the knock-on effects of these price increases, it’s not putting a halt to their morning latte. “We’re finding that they’re actually more connected to what’s in their cup and they appreciate where it’s come from, how it’s been handled and prepared. That increased level of discernment means they’re a bit more accepting of higher prices.”
Owner: Russell Bailie
Product: Sourced and roasted speciality coffee
Used by: Hotel groups, contract caterers, restaurants, specialty coffee shops
Hoteliers that adopt AI will boost profit while o ering guests an elevated experience, writes DONAGH DAVERN
Traditionally, hotels wouldn’t have been seen as the fastest adopters of technology, but much has changed in the past decade. The pandemic, climate change and evolving generational requirements have seen enormous shifts in demand for the sector. Smart TV’s in hotel bedrooms, bedside tablets to control curtains and lighting, digital keys and automated check-in have all become commonplace, while AI has been transformational in the areas of room rate management, improving operational efficiency and creating a smoother guest journey with more opportunities for personalisation. AI can now be integrated into every stage of the guest journey and there has been a real focus on mitigating repetitive time-consuming tasks by replacing human tasks with automation.
From the outset, AI is being utilised in the initial reservation process, integrating chatbots to offer 24/7 service, minimising human error in the booking process and optimising rates and packages. Trends and patterns can be analysed with the use of AI and consumer behaviour patterns, local events and even weather patterns can be factored into rate setting capability. Real-time data can be used to deploy F&B and spa promotions at the optimal time to customers and can gauge social media sentiment and trends to provide up-to-date offerings.
The key is to use technology, not to replace human interaction, but to enhance it. By drilling into guest data, AI can predict guest needs and ensure the recognition of frequent guests. It can allocate staff at specific times based on need patterns, thus improving service. An AI-enabled concierge can store and dispense information when guests require it, while online marketing can utilise platforms such as TikTok and Instagram for “storytelling”, to give a greater insight into a property’s people and thus a more positive brand image.
AI will bring us an era of hyper-personalisation where hotels can utilise AI to understand a guest’s lifestyle, behaviours and purchasing habits, where guest needs are anticipated before they are even expressed and where their preferences are mined to offer unique experiences before they even ask. Integration of virtual and augmented reality will allow guests to experience their room before they even book it.
In terms of hotel maintenance and upkeep, AI can be deployed to improve energy management and control water usage, predict potential fail points in essential equipment and overall, to reduce costs and improve environmental practices. It can also be used in food waste reducing initiatives and for calculating optimum inventory levels to mitigate both overstocking and shortages. The hotel property’s forecasting and budgeting operations can be enhanced with the use of AI and it has already gone a long way towards eliminating time-consuming number crunching in the accounting function.
In terms of the people function, AI is now being utilised to shortlist large amounts of applicants and even to reduce biases in the selection process. It will be further used to improve the area of employee development. Scheduling software and labour modelling tools are being deployed to match employee levels with business levels, also allowing staff to input their availability and their shift preferences. It even considers legislative regulations. Real-time productivity data not only assists in
AI will bring us an
era of hyperpersonalisation where hotels can utilise AI to understand a guest’s lifestyle, behaviours and purchasing habits, where guest needs are anticipated before they are even expressed
Dr Donagh Davern FIHI is a former hotel General Manager and a Lecturer in Hospitality Management at Munster Technological University
accurate staff remuneration, but can also assist with both reward and disciplinary support. Staff can utilise dedicated apps to review and give input on rosters.
There is no doubt that technology and in particular AI will increasingly be leveraged by hotels to improve efficiencies, increase personalisation and elevate performance. Its deployment has been transformative for the hotel sector and it will continue to evolve, offering increased opportunities and uptake.
And what can AI offer in the future for hotels?
Well, voice controlled in-room systems incorporating lighting and entertainment systems will become the norm. The room temperature will be set in advance to accommodate a guest’s request or indeed their guest profile, or will activate and calibrate based on their actual body temperature when in the room to ensure maximum comfort. Predictive maintenance systems will anticipate equipment service needs or potential breakdowns in advance, leading to less down time and greater guest satisfaction. Robots will be deployed across areas such as housekeeping and F&B to handle tasks such as delivery and cleaning and the carbon footprint of a hotel’s operations will continue to decrease as AI better manages utilities such as heating, ventilation and water, manages inventories better and controls waste through improved forecasting and the matching of supply with demand. Biometrics may negate the use of guest room keys altogether. Hotel staff will be freed up from routine tasks and this will allow for greater guest interaction and service at the touchpoints where they’re really needed.
For an industry steeped in tradition and guest interaction, technology and AI in particular will see the sector evolve at greater speeds than ever before, making it more efficient, offering guests improved service and growing overall profitability.
While travelling through Bengal with my wife and children a few years back, we stopped at a modest roadside restaurant called Sher Punjab. It was a spontaneous choice, the kind you make on a long drive when you’re hungry and looking for somewhere to pause. That decision gave me one of the most memorable meals of my life.
Sher Punjab was humble in its setting, with wooden tables and the low hum of a ceiling fan overhead. The room was quiet and we were among only a handful of diners. What struck me immediately was the welcome. The staff greeted us warmly, speaking with care and interest. They explained the menu with patience and made sure we were comfortable, treating us not as passing travellers but almost as regulars. That set the tone for everything that followed.
I ordered macher jhol, a traditional Bengali fish curry. It arrived piping hot, the golden gravy carrying the aroma of mustard, turmeric and fresh coriander. The first mouthful took me straight back to my mother’s kitchen. It wasn’t a dish about technique or presentation, but about balance and honesty. It had a depth of flavour that felt nourishing and familiar and it triggered a rush of childhood memories as I ate.
My wife chose the chicken biryani. I remember her face lighting up after the first spoonful. The rice was fragrant with saffron, the chicken tender and the whole dish carefully balanced. Our children were equally delighted. One had buttery naan with a mild chicken curry, while the other tucked into paneer butter masala with jeera rice. Both dishes were creamy, comforting and suited perfectly to their tastes. What stood out was how attentive the staff were with them, taking their questions seriously and making them feel involved in the experience. Their laughter and excitement at the table added an extra layer to the memory.
What made the experience unforgettable wasn’t only the food, but the way it all came together. For me, the macher jhol was a link back to my roots and to meals from my childhood. For my wife and children, it was about creating something new that belonged to them. The warmth of the service, the quality of the
We left Sher Punjab not only full, but carrying a sense of connection that stayed with us
ingredients and the feeling of sharing that moment as a family combined to make the meal more than just a stop on a journey.
We left Sher Punjab not only full, but carrying a sense of connection that stayed with us. It was a reminder that good food, served with genuine care, has the ability to link generations, create new memories and leave an imprint that lasts long after the plates are cleared.
Arun Nayak is Assistant Head Chef at Kinara Kitchen in Ranelagh
Now in their 36th year, the Gold Medal Hotel Awards are recognised as the leading independent awards programme for the Irish hospitality industry. Judged by industry experts, the Hotel & Catering Review Gold Medal Awards recognise and reward excellence in hospitality and catering operations across the island of Ireland. These awards encourage and applaud hotels, restaurants, guest houses, spa and leisure facilities, event caterers, healthcare caterers, site caterers, as well as individuals and teams, that achieve the highest standard of product and service in the industry.
For more information visit: www.goldmedal.ie or contact Jill Thornton, Senior Event Manager Phone: 01 640 1700 | Email: jill.thornton@ashvillemediagroup.com
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