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We a v i n g w o n d e r s
but thanks to the Fallas, silk weaving is still very important in Valencia. Silk mills maintain their leadership by employing artisans whose family trees can boast ancestors in the same profession, perhaps even working for the same company and in the same neighbourhood. Rafael Catalá is a perfect example of this uninterrupted transmission of knowledge and, thanks to the competence of its artisans, the company has been in business for 244 years. Alberto Catalá, the current owner, explains just how invaluable these specialised workers are: it takes only six months’ training for a weaver to work on a modern loom, whereas an average of six years are necessary to master the technique on a manual loom. The most valuable pieces it produces are known as espolín, cuts of silk made exclusively on traditional, non-mechanical looms. The espolín is named after the small spool that is used to weave the design on the warp. Although the espolín measures 54 cm, like the silks made on modern looms, its authenticity is in the designs and in the direction of the weft. The price is also a revealing indicator: a
THE MOST PRECIOUS PIECES ARE CREATED WITH THE ANCIENT “ESPOLÍN” TECHNIQUE fabric made on a machine, known as seda estrecha, costs around 3,000 Euro, whereas an espolín can cost anything between 16,000 and 24,000 Euro. The impressive design archive of Rafael Catalá further highlights its amazing manufacturing history. Other silk makers have set up shop in this area over the course of the years, driven by their passion and a fresh approach to the profession. In the 1950s, Luis Vives and José Marí, two young and skilled weavers, decided to open a small business dedicated entirely to damasks, religious ornaments and only very few espolín. Later, in the 1960s, they founded another company, Vives y Marí, with three new partners, Manuel Aznar, Vicente Bayot and Jaime García. This time they concentrated their efforts in the production of fabrics for the typical Valencian gowns, and they looked for antique looms to restore in order to make traditional espolín. It goes without saying that the company produces mainly sedas estrechas, but they are very proud to make hand-made espolín for the dresses of the falleras mayores. At least 500 hours of work are needed to weave enough metres of fabric to make these dresses, which are woven with gold, silver and complicated designs. But to espolín customers, money is no object. What really counts is being able to wear a priceless and unique garment made of a fabric that is created in the exact shade of colour to enhance her complexion, the colour of her eyes or the shimmering tone of her hair. The main clients of Vives y Marí are the indumentaristas, the tailors who make the garments. The designs are recovered from antiquarians, archives and antique fabrics, to underline the strong ties with local traditions. It is a vital link for Vives y Marí, the only manufacturer that provides its espolín with an authenticity certificate. When, clothed in her dazzling silks, the fallera mayor announces to the crowd waiting with baited breath that the Fallas may begin, the whole city bursts into light. Let the fiesta begin. Special thanks to Stefano Mirpurian for lending his expertise www.valenciafashion.com
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SUMPTUOUS FEMININITY Above, a group of Valencian falleras mayores. Top, Vives y Mari, detail of a 19th-century loom. Opposite page, making a fallera skirt.
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