Arkansas Wild | Spring 2020 by Arkansas Times

ARKANSAS WILD FIVE GREAT ADVENTURES

MARCH 2020 ARKANSASWILD.COM

the best time to go fishing is when you can get away.

making memories since 1958. 1777 river road | lakeview, arkansas 870-431-5202 | gastons@gastons.com gastons.com | lat 36 20’ 55” n | long 92 33’ 25” w

MARCH 2020 ARKANSASWILD.COM

FIVE NEW ADVENTURES Go Wild This Spring 22

A CAST OF THOUSANDS

Not all rainbows are in the sky. Check out our White River excursion on page 22.

DEPARTMENTS

10 OUTDOOR ESSENTIALS 12 KEEPING IT NATURAL 14 TRIBE 18 EXPLORE 38 #ARKANSASWILD 4 | Arkansas Wild Â¸ MARCH 2020

ON THE COVER: Urban kayakers watch the sun set on the Arkansas River, one of our favorite adventures. See more starting on page 28. Photo courtesy of Sam Ellis, Rocktown River Outfitters.

NOVO STUDIO

Fly-fishing the White River

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N O T T I AR CAALM LOO W T EW T N NEX

BROOKE WALLACE Publisher brooke@arktimes.com DWAIN HEBDA Editor dwain@arktimes.com MANDY KEENER Creative Director mandy@arktimes.com KATIE HASSELL Art Director/Digital Manager

Live Your Adventure

LESA THOMAS Senior Account Executive WELDON WILSON Production Manager/Controller

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ROLAND R. GLADDEN Advertising Traffic Manager MIKE SPAIN Advertising Art Director JORDAN LITTLE Director of Digital Strategy ROBERT CURFMAN IT Director CHARLOTTE KEY Administration ANITRA HICKMAN Circulation Director

tag us with your favorite place to cool off in arkansas this summer Tag us on Instagram or Facebook! 6 | Arkansas Wild ¸ MARCH 2020

ALAN LEVERITT President

CONTRIBUTORS

DISCOVER

the DIAMOND LAKES REGION LUKE “DEUCE” COOP The only thing Luke “Deuce” Coop loves more than experiencing the outdoors is sharing them with others, an obsession dating back nearly 40 years to family camping and fishing trips on the White River. Catch up with him at aradventuregram.com.

LAKE HAMILTON

PHILIP THOMAS is the owner and

operator of Novo Studio, a photography, video and graphic design company located in northwest Arkansas.

LAKE GREESON

OUACHITA CHALLENGE MOUNTAIN BIKE TOUR

ARKADELPHIA ♦ CADDO VALLEY ♦ GLENWOOD HOT SPRINGS ♦ MALVERN ♦ MOUNT IDA ♦ MURFREESBORO APRILLE HANSON is a freelancer whose

work has appeared in the Arkansas DemocratGazette, The Trucker newspaper, Truckload Authority magazine and the Arkansas Catholic newspaper. She lives in Conway with her husband and three fur-babies.

ountain peaks for hiking, five clear lakes for playing, three sparkling rivers for enjoying, IMBA EPIC mountain bike trails for shredding, a National Park for exploring, historic hotels and cool lake resorts for overnighting…and all close to the dining, shopping, art and culture of Hot Springs.

Visit HotSprings.org to request a free Hot Springs/Diamond Lakes Vacation Guide.

HIDDEN

MARLA CANTRELL is an award-winning writer, editor and writing instructor who lives in Alma. When she’s not writing articles about people and places in Arkansas, she’s sitting at her desk writing short stories.

This ad is paid for with a combination of state funds and private regional association funds.

ARKANSASWILD.COM | 7

FROM THE EDITOR

HERE’S TO SPRING This issue of Arkansas WILD is chock-full of things to get you out of the winter doldrums and back outside where you belong. We check out the trout fishing at the end of a fly rod on the White River and profile some up-and-coming nonconsumptive activities sweeping the state. We also give you an update on the efforts to repopulate the state’s Northern bobwhite population, take a look at the life cycle of lakes, and prowl the woods looking for that elusive prize turkey. And don’t miss the first installment of our readers’ photo contest, focused on one of our favorite Arkansas locations, Petit Jean Mountain. All this and more await you in the pages to come. Thanks for picking us up and taking us along on your adventures! . Wander far,

HAPPY TRAILS

Arkansas’s outdoors lost a trio of its most impactful and passionate advocates recently. As we pay tribute to them here, we offer our condolences to their family and friends.

FORREST L. WOOD, Flippin 1932-2020 A pioneer of the fishing industry, Forrest L. Wood is credited with designing and perfecting the modern bass boat. He launched Ranger Boats in his native Flippin in 1968, a venture that would cement his name in the annals of Arkansas entrepreneurs. Wood twice qualified for the world championship Bassmaster Classic (1972, 1979) and was the driving force behind the FLW Tour. He served as an Arkansas Game and Fish Commissioner and resides in several halls of fame for sports and business, most notably the Arkansas Game and Fish Foundation Arkansas Outdoor Hall of Fame. 8 | Arkansas Wild ¸ MARCH 2020

PAT PEACOCK, Stuttgart 1938-2020 The first woman to serve as an Arkansas Game and Fish Commissioner, Pat Peacock was a trailblazer for women in the outdoors. Peacock is the only person to hold all duck-calling titles offered at the World’s Duck Calling Championships in Stuttgart, including Junior World, Women’s World (five times), World’s Champion (twice) and 1960 Champion of Champions. She also took home the inaugural Queen Mallard crown at the 1955 Wings Over the Prairie Festival in Stuttgart. Her many accolades include the Arkansas Game and Fish Foundation Arkansas Outdoor Hall of Fame.

Dwain Hebda Editor, Arkansas Wild

JERRY McKINNIS, Rea Valley 1937-2019 Jerry McKinnis, a pioneer of outdoors television programming, leaves an indelible mark on the entertainment industry. His program, “The Fishin’ Hole”, featured fishing trips with celebrity guests and is the longest-running original program on ESPN behind “SportsCenter”. He later developed the highly successful ESPN Outdoors block of programming through his production company JM Associates. He is enshrined in the Arkansas Game and Fish Foundation Arkansas Outdoor Hall of Fame and Arkansas Sports Hall of Fame, among others.

IF YOU’RE BIG

ON THE OUTDOORS, YOU’RE BIG ON LITTLE ROCK. TM

.C OM

Ad paid for with State and Heart of Arkansas funds.

Pinnacle Mountain State Park ARKANSASWILD.COM | 9

OUTDOOR ESSENTIALS

OBSERVE AND REPORT Today’s outdoor opportunities go well beyond hunting and fishing, but you still need the right gear to get the job done, be it for photography, birdwatching or butterflies.

10 | Arkansas Wild ¸ MARCH 2020

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF VENDORS

TROUT ADDICTION? WE CAN HELP!

1. FREEZE-FRAME

Whether capturing an Ozark mountain sunset or a bird on the wing, the Fujifilm X-H1 digital camera delivers quality performance thanks to accurate autofocus, fast shooting speed and five-axis internal image stabilization. And while not cheap, it’s priced well below comparable mirrorless models. (fujifilm.com)

2. HIKE IN STYLE

One of the most comfortable hikers on the market, Salomon X Ultra 3 Mid GTX is built like a trail-running shoe but with beefed-up ankle support and protection. Stable and providing excellent traction, the X Ultra 3 is built for the long haul, too. Take them for a spin; your feet will thank you. (salomon.com)

3. FLIP FOR THIS

The best shots lie off the beaten path, which makes the Lowepro Flipside Trek BP 350 AW camera backpack essential equipment. Well-engineered and comfortable to wear, it stows all your camera gear without sacrificing accessibility. The built-in rain cover is a particularly nice touch. (lowepro.com)

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Buffalo River Lodge

4. BY THE BOOK

Beginners and experienced birders and butterfly seekers alike rely on guides to help positively identify what they track down. For generations, Peterson Field Guides have come along for the ride offering guides on birds, bees and everything in between. And yes, everything is available as an app, too. (houghtonmifflinbooks.com/peterson)

5. WATCH THE BIRDIE

Seeking your next favorite pair of binoculars? The Nikon Monarch 5 should be at the top of your list. Rugged and versatile under all conditions, it offers 56mm objective lenses for massive field of view, packs 20x magnification and great low-light chops. We can’t guarantee you’ll spot an ivory-billed woodpecker with these babies, but we’re sure you won’t without them. (nikonsportoptics.com)

An Unforgettable Experience 4 private rentals, $60.00 to $400.00/night Accommodations for 2 to 40 guests. Located 10 min from Buffalo River. Floating trip, family reunion, church retreat.

877-215-7788 • www.buffaloriverlodge.com This ad is paid for with a combination of state funds and private regional association funds. ARKANSASWILD.COM | 11

KEEPING IT NATURAL

WHAT ABOUT BOBWHITE?

HABITAT REFURBISHING IS HAPPENING, BUT PROGRESS IS SLOW. BY DREW HARRIS

ARKANSAS GAME AND FISH

Northern bobwhite such as this one used to abound in Arkansas.

he Northern bobwhite once thrived in Arkansas. The distinctive calls could be heard almost everywhere across the state and sportsmen would often see dozens of coveys each morning or afternoon on a hunt. The population was strong in the early 1900s and peaked in the early 1970s, after which began a precipitous decline. While quail are threatened by many factors such as disease, predation and weather, researchers from various conservation agencies all agree the losses are primarily due to diminishing habitat. Farming practices have changed, and with them the landscape. As smaller tracts of food crops, typical of subsistence farming, gave way to vast stances of farmland, brushy field borders and thickets providing quail both food and cover have virtually disappeared. Native grasses such as bluestem, Indiangrass and gamagrass have given way to Bermuda and fescue, which do not provide adequate terrain for evading predators or cover for nesting areas. The same goes for the Gulf Coastal Plain, where canopies of massive stands of timber prevent growth of grasses and forbs, with only the fringes receiving adequate sunlight. And while the bobwhite forages and feeds mainly

12 | Arkansas Wild ¸ MARCH 2020

on seeds, vegetation such as milkweed and purple or yellow coneflower lure pollinators. This provides another food source for adults as well as chicks, not to mention propagating further plant development. The Arkansas Game and Fish Commission, in cooperation with Quail Forever, the National Bobwhite Quail Initiative and the Natural Resources Conservation Service, have undertaken a major effort to restore quail habitat on both privately owned land and in designated wildlife management areas. “Our overall goal is to have certain portions within the state to have landscape scale habitat,” said Marcus Asher, quail biologist and Jonesboro native, who heads up the charge for the AGFC. “It’ll be pretty tough to get the entire state on board, but I think we can have some focal areas of landscape of 10,000, 20,000, maybe even 30,000 acres, eventually.” Ryan Diener, state coordinator of Quail Forever, AGFC’s primary partner in habitat restoration, said efforts among the group’s chapters range from fundraising and education to supporting national initiatives. Whether through a banquet or other local event, each chapter maintains 100 percent control over funds raised, which are used to

“OUR OVERALL GOAL IS TO HAVE CERTAIN PORTIONS WITHIN THE STATE TO HAVE LANDSCAPE SCALE HABITAT.” —MARCUS ASHER, ARKANSAS GAME AND FISH COMMISSION pollinator events and recently completed 30 acres of habitat restoration near Pinnacle Mountain. Asher said people all across the state are seeing and hearing more quail, whether on private land or focal areas. Monitoring efforts show substantial improvement on Little Bayou WMA in Ashley County and Jack Mountain WMA in Garland County. Stone Prairie WMA in Faulkner County, purchased from The Nature Conservancy of Arkansas in March 2019, reports increasing numbers, as does Pea Ridge National Military Park, in cooperation with the National Park Service. The process of habitat restoration through prescribed burns, disking and planting of native species is both labor and time intensive, but with continued coordination from various agencies and cooperation from landowners, officials hope the AGFC’s quail initiative will see continued success.

Mount Nebo Monument Trail, Dardanelle

improve local habitat or get youth and young hunters outdoors. “We have eight chapters in the state, concerned landowners or people who just want to do some good local habitat in their areas and get better wildlife populations in the landscape, specifically quail,” he said. Diener said a large part of the involvement is getting out and identifying areas, especially open areas sitting unused around a property that might be converted back to native forbs and grasses. Aside from the local chapters, Quail Forever also has eight Farm Bill biologists and a monarch and pollinator coordinator on the ground in Arkansas. “Including myself, that’s 10 fulltime professional biologists working round-the-clock to provide good quail and wildlife habitat and ecosystem restoration,” Diener said. The Central Arkansas chapter, known as the Big Rock Chapter of Quail Forever, is very supportive of youth

arkansas.com

ARKANSASWILD.COM | 13

TRIBE

INTO THE WOODS

FERNCLIFF NATURE PRESCHOOL GETS KIDS OUTSIDE EARLY.

Ferncliff tots hear a story on a sunny spring day.

achel Parker, director of Ferncliff Nature Preschool, gets excited about coming to work, knowing she’s helping kids develop a lifelong love of the outdoors. The school is part of the 1,200-acre Ferncliff Camp and Conference Center, which began operating in 1937 and added the preschool four years ago. The school, located 10 miles west of Little Rock, follows the forest kindergarten model and is “child led” with teachers acting as facilitators for learning. Lessons happen everywhere, from writing ABCs and numbers with a stick, to seeing the leaves change color in the fall and finding out where animals store food for the winter ahead. There is even an educational farm on the property. “We let the children come up with their own play. In a time when we’re constantly entertained, we think it’s important to let them find their boredom and overcome it with creativity,” Parker said. “As teachers, we’re there to ask questions to help them think forward and to inspire them.” Forty children are enrolled, but not all attend on the same days. For every six students, there is a teacher who watches over them while they romp in the woods. Seventy-five percent of the day is spent connecting with nature in all kinds of weather, the rare exceptions being lightning and thunderstorms. The students follow rigorous safety rules and teachers monitor the environment continuously, including tracking the weather. Mornings start on the playground, followed by a group meeting with story time and a hike to an area just beyond the manicured spaces, where the forest begins. They are led by their teachers, who have a wagon filled

14 | Arkansas Wild ¸ MARCH 2020

FERNCLIFF NATURE PRESCHOOL

BY MARLA CANTRELL

with learning materials for motor skills and language and a mobile hand-washing station. There is ample time for free play, snack time that often consists of hot tea and trail mix, and more stories that connect to nature. The kids hike back to the school to meet their parents at 3 p.m. Every day brings something new. Recently, that something new was a copperhead. “A kiddo was throwing rocks at a stump, kind of off, outside where the class was playing, and he just happened to see the snake curled up at the base of the stump,” Parker said. “He called the teacher over, and the class came over to look. It was about 15 feet away from them … They blocked off the area for the rest of the play time.” The scene was a rare one, Parker added, saying, “We’re a big, loud, noisy group and snakes don’t like to be where we are. We’re always mindful when we’re out and we don’t venture into their areas.” Ferncliff Nature Preschool was a rarity in Arkansas when it opened but since then other groups have emerged in the state, a fact Parker finds encouraging. Seeing children grow and explore is the best perk of her job, she said, often making her feel like a kid herself. She knows she’s onto something when the most consistent compliment she gets is students telling her they’re not ready to go home at the end of the day. “I think when these kiddos grow up, they’re going to continue to love learning and be inquisitive and have fantastic social skills,” she said. “The impact of being deeply connected to nature will help them as adults to make really awesome choices and decisions of how to take care of all this beautiful land we have.”

KNOW THE PERFECT PLACE THAT COULD USE A SIDEWALK, OR MAYBE A TRAIL THAT NEEDS SOME TLC? Your ideas may qualify for funding through the Transportation Alternatives Program (TAP) or the Recreational Trails Program (RTP). Visit www.ardot.gov/tap/tap.aspx to learn more about these grant programs administered by the Arkansas Department of Transportation.

eligible examples include, but are not limited to:

• Conversion of abandoned railroad corridors • Sidewalk improvements • Development & rehabilitation of trailside and trailhead facilities To apply, download an application from our website. Completed applications can be emailed to LFPA@ardot.gov or mailed to the address below. Applications must be received by June 1. Arkansas Department of Transportation c/o Program Management Division 10324 Interstate 30 Little Rock, AR 72209

hot springs greenway trail ARKANSASWILD.COM | 15

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IN THEIR PRIME

Looking for a lake this summer that’s right in the prime of life? We asked experts for their top three suggestions: LAKE COLUMBIA, MAGNOLIA (Columbia County) “For several years running, Lake Columbia is our number-one producer,” Batten said. “We do a stat of how long it takes tournament anglers to catch a 5-pound bass and that lake turned in the lowest number of hours. And, the crappie there are as dang-good as the bass.” LAKE ERLING, TAYLOR (Lafayette County) “For crappie fishing, Lake Erling is probably number one in the state; for catfish, it would be ranked really high, too,” Olive said. “It’s been drawn down at certain times and the water’s come back up at the right times. It’s just in a really good place right now, fish population-wise.” BULL SHOALS LAKE, BULL SHOALS (Marion County) “In the last 10 years we’ve had more high-water years than not and where we have high water that lasts through May and June, you get a lot of flooding of trees and bushes and you get a high survival of your young sport fish,” Batten said. “Right now, Bull Shoals is slap full of bass, walleye and crappie.”

Brush, cut trees and other submersible matter create fish habitat.

down, that water fluctuates every year. Over time, with those trees and brush exposed to water and air, water and air, it really has decomposed a lot of the shoreline habitat.” Strategies for helping keep lakes healthy during their life cycle range from sinking cut trees and brush into the lake, to planting fish-friendly aquatic vegetation, to “fertilizing” lakes, to improve nutrient content. None of these tactics are a silver bullet, however, primarily due to the scale of the issue. “On some of our very small Game and Fish lakes, 1,000 acres or less, they’re small enough that we can afford to chemically alter them and basically fertilize them like a farmer would do a field,” said Benjamin Batten, AGFC chief of fisheries. “That can be a great way to immediately get a boost that we couldn’t get otherwise. But you can’t do that on 40,000-acre Lake Ouachita. The scale would be millions of dollars a year.” As for growing beneficial vegetation, getting that established is often easier said

CLEAN, DRAIN, DRY than done, Batten said. “A lot of our native vegetation caps out at 6 to 10 feet tall,” he said. “So, when that lake goes up 20 feet in the spring and then drops to negative 10 feet in the summer, it happens too fast to keep rooted plants where they need to be.” On the other hand, Batten said the AGFC enjoys sound working relationships with many other entities to combat such issues in the name of lake health, even those entities like the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, which sees fish habitat as secondary to flood control. “We definitely have good working relationships with all of the local project offices,” Batten said. “We work with them on habitat projects. I just got an email from our biologist over at Greers Ferry [Lake] and the Corps just agreed to let us chainsaw some trees and drag them in. We’ve been doing this at Bull Shoals and Norfork for decades, but Greers never allowed us to do that. That’s an example to me that, if anything, those good relationships are getting even better.”

A major issue in the health of Arkansas’s lakes is controlling nuisance plants and aquatic wildlife. Zebra mussels, silver carp and especially giant salvinia are all without predators and populate in such numbers that they can quickly invade a body of water and render it uninhabitable. Batten said boaters and anglers can help prevent spreading these and other pest species from one body of water by observing clean, drain and dry protocol. Clean off your boat, take your plug out and drain the water, and then dry it out by letting it air dry or towel it off. Always check the banks where the boat is sitting to make sure you didn’t pinch a bunch of vegetation. “Aquatic nuisance species is a major deal,” he said. “We do our best to slow it down and those are dollars we have to s p e n d t h a t w e c a n ’t d o o t h e r responsibilities like growing fish and managing lakes. It robs us of the ability to do other management things that are more positive and proactive. We’re asking for everyone out there to pitch in on this effort.”

EXPLORE ARKANSAS

Landing the big Toms means knowing the terrain.

18 | Arkansas Wild Â¸ MARCH 2020

HERE TODAY, GONE TOMORROW TURKEY HUNTING ON THE EVER-CHANGING LANDSCAPE. BY RICHARD LEDBETTER

ARKANSAS GAME AND FISH

ith most sporting activities, the court, rink, gridiron or diamond is always the same size and shape. In hunting, on the other hand, modern large-scale timber management practices continuously alter the ground where wild game is found from year to year. The progression of harvest, plant, grow, harvest keeps changing the mixed-stand timber environment and as forests change, it greatly affects how turkey and other game use the landscape. A hunter willing to similarly adapt by learning to follow altering animal habits may enjoy continued success on the ever-changing playing field. One piece of ground I often hunt provides a perfect example. It was late in the morning on opening day of the turkey hunt before the bird I was after gobbled. I’d started at dawn in a likely spot but, after giving up, made a long walkabout, slipping quietly through the surrounding woods listening for him as I went. When he finally announced himself, I quickly figured my best bet was to ease back to where I’d first sat to await his arrival. He was walking a trail next to a narrow, steep-banked creek, so I sat down with my back to a young pine adjacent to the little stream. I had a very narrow shooting lane through thick undergrowth by which to take the hoped-for shot. He was late cranking up, but once begun, it was hot and heavy, gobbling every half-minute as he approached along a winding wooded path on the border between mature hardwoods on one side and an overgrown sage grass and blackberry thicket on the other. I couldn’t see his approach for the thick foliage, but kept the gun resting on my

ARKANSASWILD.COM | 19

THE PROGRESSION OF HARVEST, PLANT, GROW, HARVEST KEEPS CHANGING THE MIXEDSTAND TIMBER ENVIRONMENT.

The author with his prize.

20 | Arkansas Wild Â¸ MARCH 2020

upraised knee leveled on the one clear shot I anticipated to soon have. As he approached, his enthusiastic gobbles told me where he was along his route. Gauging by the quick progress of the sound, the opportunity for a shot would be brief. He was walking fast. I focused on controlling my breathing and keeping my heart rate in check. When he eventually came within view, all I could see was his bright red head, upraised. I squeezed the trigger sending a shotgun report echoing down the draw. Leaping up, I stepped clear of the brush to assess him: Sporting a 12inch beard and pair of needle-sharp, 1.5-inch spurs, he proved a trophy. By the next season, this neck of hardwoods along the streambank had been completely cleared by loggers. In its place was a stumpstrewn bottom with little cover to hide from the keen eyes of a wily gobbler. Where big Toms had formerly walked the trails around the perimeter of the hardwoods, they now flew down from the roost to strut in the middle of the expanse on open high ground next to the same narrow-winding creek formerly surrounded by trees. This left me watching my quarryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s elaborate display from a distance until an amorous hen succumbed to his charms and the pair wandered off through the middle of the clearing down the draw. I quickly formulated a plan, making a wide passage around the open ground, keeping cover between the birds and

m TATE. myself, attempting to get ahead of the elusive pair. I made rapid tracks, working up a lather and panting for air. Stopping to breathe, I listened for the occasional gobble to gauge his whereabouts. Pushing on, I headed for a place well up the creek where trees still stood. Near the base of a steep ridgeline, property ownership changed. Beyond the boundary line, hardwoods still stood along the winding water course. I slipped in next to a spreading oak to avoid detection. Shotgun at the ready, I made a few soft clucks with my slate. His response rattled the woods and he poked his head above a shallow depression before cautiously meandering over the rise. I scratched out a few yelps to which he double-gobbled. Setting aside my call, I readied for the shot as he gradually pecked his way across open ground toward the wood line. As he craned his neck, searching for the hen he took me for, I steadied my aim and squeezed the trigger, dropping him at the edge of the cutover. These stories illustrate the radically different hunting techniques required on a single piece of ground, but nature wasn’t finished with my favored spot. In just two years’ time, the clear-cut became a thicket of bramble and tall young pines too dense for a turkey’s liking. It will be a decade before the understory opens up enough for birds to return and hunting opportunities to abound there. Turkey, like other wildlife, will move to more suitable habitat on the altering checkerboard of woodlands; so too must the adaptable hunter to maintain success.

A Foggy Morning in the Valley Courtesy of Dee Dee Conklin. She says, “This is an old barn in Boxley Valley. The foggy morning made for a great backdrop to the old barn.”

he people who live here. That’s why we created an Beautiful sit OnlyInArk.com for everything from great bike trails Buffalo River Courtesy of Mary ank is only in Arkansas, youChristian. knowThisit’s all about you. beautiful scene was taken on the Buffalo River from the Woolum Landing in St. Joe.

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Kings River Falls Taken by Dean LaGrone. A beautiful weekend called for a recent hike to King’s River Falls and the Glory Hole.

Submit your own photos at onlyinark.com/photos

ARKANSASWILD.COM | 21

A CAST OF THOUSANDS A greenhorn turned loose in trout heaven. BY DWAIN HEBDA PHOTOGRAPHY BY NOVO STUDIO

Gaston’s Guide Frank Saksa shows how it’s done. 22 | Arkansas Wild ¸ MARCH 2020

Beginner gear includes Gaston’s White River Resort fly-fishing manual.

“Damn it.”

It was all the wisdom I could muster after fouling my line for what felt like the hundredth time. I really wanted to blame someone, something, anything for what was transpiring, but there was no place to hide. I was out on the famed White River — some of the best fly-fishing in the United States — positioned there by a guide who’s forgotten more about this place than I am ever likely to know. That same guide, Frank Saksa of Gaston’s White River Resort in Lakeview, sat astern in the boat, calmly coaching my casting, suffering my meat-cleaver flails and patiently untangling the filament mess I created. Even the weather, threatening and low-hanging when we left the dock, had stopped spitting rain as if the clouds were sitting back, nudging each other and chortling, “Check out this guy.” “Damn it,” I muttered again. I’d come here to see what all the excitement I’d heard of fly-fishing was about. According to a special report issued jointly by the Recreational Boating and ARKANSASWILD.COM | 23

Fly-fishing school starts with the very basics, including knot-tying. (Right) The author starts to get the hang of things.

I TOOK ENORMOUS PRIDE IN SNAKING MY LINE OUT SMOOTHLY, CAST AFTER CAST. THIS MIGHT NOT BE SO BAD AFTER ALL. 24 | Arkansas Wild ¸ MARCH 2020

Fishing Foundation and The Outdoor Foundation, fly-fishing’s popularity is at an all-time high. In 2018, just under 7 million anglers made 76 million flyfishing trips, or just under 11 outings a year. What’s more, 1.2 million people gave it a go for the first time that year, representing 17 percent of all fly-fishing anglers. Fly-fishing still only represented 2.3 percent of all anglers in 2018, lagging saltwater fishing’s 13 million anglers, and isn’t even in the same universe as freshwater fishing’s 39 million participants. But fly-fishing’s three-year growth rate topped both freshwater and saltwater, as well as fishing overall in 2018, which remained statistically flat over 2017. Experts see other reasons fly-fishing is the next boom outdoor activity; for one thing, its growing female participation.

Women made up 21 percent of 2018 fly-fishing anglers, an increase of more than 25 percent since 2006. Secondly, its largest age demographics are 25 to 34 (19 percent) and 35 to 44 (16 percent) and third, its largest socioeconomic segment is those making more than $100,000 per year. In short, fly-fishing is a sport dominated by younger enthusiasts, one in five of whom are women, with the time and resources to indulge their outdoor passions. I didn’t expect to master flyfishing right out of the gate, so I had enough sense to attend flyfishing school the morning we went out. Saksa awaited in Gaston’s conference center, just one of the amenities that the legendary resort offers along with a private airstrip and world-class restaurant. The guide slid a booklet across the table and encouraged us to take notes.

For the next few hours, Saksa dispelled every misconception we had about the sport, the kinds of things many first-timers tend to glean from binge-watching “A River Runs Through It.” He showed us how to tie knots, the difference between tippet and leader, the myriad flies used for nymphing, mid-range and surface depending on weather conditions and fish behavior. He then took us outside onto a broad expanse of lawn for casting practice. Unlike the Zebcos of my youth, a fly rod is a marvel of energy transfer. Restricted to motion between 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock, casting is a delicate exercise in timing, waiting just long enough for the line to catch up behind you before launching it forward with little more than a flick. Saksa said many guests skip fly-fishing school altogether, even

newbies. That left me dumbstruck, given everything there is to focus on in this technical sport. Hand position, wrist and arm alignment, rod position, lock-and-load, hook set, all much different than the clunky kit on which I was raised. But under Saksa’s expert tutelage, things began to work. I took enormous pride in snaking my line out smoothly, cast after cast. This might not be so bad after all. Following lunch, we climbed aboard and buzzed out among the dozen or so boats on the river. Saksa found the appropriate spot, gave me the look and I was up, head buzzing with everything he’d taught me. Maybe it was because I cast sitting down; maybe I’d let the slightest bit of cockiness worm into my mind. Maybe the fishing gods just weren’t going to let me have it that easy. Whatever it was, cast after initial cast was an exercise in futility. ARKANSASWILD.COM | 25

THE SIGHT OF THE TROUT ONLY REINFORCED MY UNDERSTANDING OF FLY-FISHING’S APPEAL; THE RAINBOW WASN’T THE ONLY ONE WHO WAS HOOKED.

A beautiful White River rainbow lands in the boat.

26 | Arkansas Wild ¸ MARCH 2020

Music, Artisans, Heritage and Spring River Fun. There’s Always Something Happening in Hardy…

LUCY KAISER

Saksa was a good cheerleader throughout, saying how the river being so high made for challenging conditions; that fly-fishing was given to mankind to teach him patience; that if flyfishing were music, it would be jazz. But for all that, it still came down to execution and that was on me. At last I stood, set my feet and my jaw, and this time, remembered to roll my eyes back, watching the line curl up and over an imaginary 10-foot wall. My forearm twitched and the gossamer line sailed straight and true. It was exhilarating, not for the single good cast, but for having to work for it. Not every cast that followed that afternoon was perfect, or even pretty, but none fouled the line again. Later, the strike indicator gurgled under and a perfect set brought in what I’d come for. The sight of the trout only reinforced my growing understanding of fly-fishing’s appeal; the rainbow wasn’t the only one who was hooked. Chugging for home, I settled against the breeze and took time to study the awe-inspiring natural grandeur. Even in winter, the White River is jaw-dropping, silver and shimmering yet clear enough to see to the bottom. Cliffs soared on one side while ancient trees grew on the other bank, studded with waterfowl nests. Almost home, Saksa cut the engine and pointed up to where I would see my first bald eagle in the wild. It was a regal bow on a gift of a day. Final tally – four rainbows caught and released, three spit the hook and three got away on rookie fisherman error. Part of me knew it would have been a long afternoon absent Saksa’s expert reading of the water, but I didn’t care. A seed had been planted that with time and practice, well, who knows? I pulled out of the parking lot and pointed the car toward home, more tired than I’d expected and more satisfied, too. As the light faded, the river rushed on.

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ARKANSAS WILD calling all wild fans! nominate your choice for champion of the wild 2020! Send to Dwain Hebda, editor at dwain@arktimes.com ARKANSASWILD.COM | 27

Trail running provides excellent elevation change and great scenery, too.

For as well-known as Arkansas’s wild spaces are for hunting and fishing, these traditional activities are being given a run for their money by the new generation of outdoor enthusiasts. Today, nonconsumptive activities are growing, and growing fast, from wildlife watching and photography to kayaking, rock climbing, hiking and running. Read on to find out about some of these hot new activities and how to experience them.

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HIT THE TRAIL BY DWAIN HEBDA Tired of taking your life in your hands, dodging cars every time you set out for a run? Longing to get out into the woods more, but don’t want to lug a bike? Stumped for an answer? Why not go your own way and take up trail running instead, a form of recreation that packs a great cardiovascular punch in surroundings that are second to none. “Most people find trail running as a beginner as slightly more challenging than road running as a beginner,” said Jerry White, president of the Spa Pacers running club in Hot Springs. “The terrain means you’re not running on equal level footing, you’ve got roots and rocks and puddles and all types of things to navigate, which provide some challenges. “Typically, there are more changes in elevation, both uphill and downhill, and sometimes there are obstacles for people used to running on the road, too.” 28 | Arkansas Wild ¸ MARCH 2020

White said he likes trail and road running equally, and no wonder, considering Hot Springs is ringed with trails that are convenient to access and challenging enough for runners of all abilities. “Sunset Trail has multiple entry points around Hot Springs; the Spa Pacers has a weekly trail run that happens every Wednesday afternoon, that goes for 3 to 4 miles or so,” he said. “There are multiple offshoots of that trail that go in different directions and give you the ability to add distance. Someone could run, without completely changing the main trail they’re on, for at least 10 to 15 miles all around and really never be very far at all outside the city limits. “Clearly, the new item that we’re all very proud of in Hot Springs is the Northwoods, a trail primarily for mountain biking; however, it’s certainly open for trail runners, hikers and walkers as well.

So far, it’s been a really good combination between the two groups; clearly, we have a lot of people with just as strong a love of mountain biking or road biking as they do of running and walking and jogging.” First-timers should do themselves a favor and invest in the right shoes for trail running, and White suggests other gear amenities, too. “Trails, for the most part, you could potentially be out there a little longer, and so a lot of people invest in hand-held or belt-carry self-contained fluids or nutrition,” he said. “In poor daylight you often get ambient lighting on roads via street lights or sidewalks, but you don’t want to be out on the trails without at least modestly good output from a head lamp or some other type of light.”

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ARKANSASWILD.COM | 29

The Five Floating Commandments

Mind the rules of the river when floating the Buffalo.

ARKANSAS PARKS AND TOURISM

Poor etiquette on the water causes all sorts of problems ranging from ruined days to more regulations than we’d like. Here are a few things to keep in mind to help you and everyone else have a great day.

The Art of the Float BY LUKE COOP As the country’s first national river, the Buffalo is one of the most famous rivers in The Natural State, for natives and visitors alike. If this summer is your first floating the Buffalo, read on for tips on how to make it a memorable, hassle-free experience. When To Go: There are two floating seasons — when there’s water and when there’s not. That said, the typical outfitter season is March to July with acceptable water levels sometimes extending into September, especially on the lower reaches of the river. Taking young children between March and May requires especially careful consideration because air temps are warm but water temps can still be chilly. This is a recipe for discomfort or potentially worse in the event of an out-of-boat experience. Who’s in the Boat? The ages and abilities of your crew will impact which section of the river you can reasonably expect to enjoy floating, when you can safely plan to go and what kinds of craft might be appropriate. Thus, a family trip will likely be much different than a church group excursion or a fraternity or sorority outing. What You Need: Every outfitter on the river offers kayaks, canoes and rafts — along with all requisite gear — and the makeup of the party will determine which boat you should choose. 30 | Arkansas Wild ¸ MARCH 2020

For a family with young kids, a raft would be a prudent choice. Team-building outing for a fraternity, sorority or corporate group? Tandem canoes are an excellent way to foster teamwork, provided all floaters are ablebodied. Or, if your group members are interested in going at their own pace and perhaps wetting a hook, kayaks are well worth considering. Don’t forget, there’s always the option of mixing it up. Where Are We Going? The Buffalo is divided into three reaches: upper, middle and lower. To choose the appropriate one, first check water levels (http:// www.troop142bsa.org/buffalo_ national_river.htm) to determine what your crew can handle. The upper is a little more challenging than the middle and lower. Select an outfitter that services your chosen reach at https:// www.nps.gov/buff/canoe-rentals. htm. This website provides relevant information and gear and cuts down on shuttle time to the river and back. Once that’s accomplished, pick a section (the river between access points). To budget your time appropriately, determine how far the section is and multiply the river miles by 2.5. That will give you a good approximation in hours of how long it will take to cover it, including stops.

Don’t litter. Keep all loose items securely contained and keep the container(s) secured to the boat. Cam straps between thwarts and across a cooler or other container will do the trick and are easily loosened and tightened as needed for access. On the Buffalo particularly, securing your stuff is not only good etiquette, it’s the law. Don’t force your music on others. If you like tunes while you float, knock yourself out, but not on the Buffalo between Ponca and Kyles Landing — it’s prohibited. And don’t think because you don’t see other boats that no one will notice; sound bouncing off those spectacular bluffs carries a long way and others may not share your love of Tuvan Throat Singing. Don’t imperil other floaters. Drinking too much and taking unnecessary risks not only put you in danger, it can endanger parks personnel and other floaters who try to help you out of a jam. Think before you park. Outfitters and other floaters need room to handle boats, gear and people. Before you park, ask yourself if your vehicle can stay where it is for an entire day without causing problems. Maintain boat spacing. When boats bunch up, they flip. Sometimes that’s funny, but it’s not when a little one is ejected from the family raft because someone wasn’t paying attention. Let other boats exit rapids before you enter.

ARKANSASWILD.COM | 31

TAYLOR YOUNG, STAY CHARMED YOGA

Paddleboard yoga is invigorating for mind and body.

How to stay afloat

Floating Stick BY APRILLE HANSON As families make their summer pilgrimages to the lakes, rivers and creeks, don’t be surprised to see someone doing a headstand on a paddleboard out on the water. The craze, stand-up paddle board yoga or SUP yoga, immediately hooked yoga instructor Taylor Young, 27. The owner of Stay Charmed Yoga in Fort Smith, she was first introduced to SUP yoga in Taos, New Mexico. “Me and my friend tried it and absolutely loved it,” she said. Young completed her SUP yoga teacher training and started offering classes in the summer of 2018. She typically leads students on Wells Lake in Fort Smith with some private classes held at a creek on Frog Bayou in Rudy. “[My clientele is] very diverse. I thought I was just going to be targeting the yoga community, but I have a lot of people who come who have never even done yoga before and they’ll come and try the SUP,” said Young, whose students range from early teens to people in their 70s. “It’s fun. If you fall, it’s OK, you’re just hitting water. We have lifejackets and safety before the class.” Any yoga pose can be done on the paddleboard floating in the water, Young said, but the hardest are the one-legged balance poses. “People are always real excited when they can hit a headstand on the board,” she said. Beyond the usual benefits of strength, mobility and flexibility, SUP yoga adds the element of nature. Clients can let their hands rest in the water, watch geese from a distance and relax in child’s pose and sunbather’s pose, lying on the board at the beginning and end of the class. “You’re just listening to the water, listening to the trees, sometimes there’s people fishing,” Taylor said. “It’s just that connection; you don’t always stop and really feel the sun hitting your skin, you know?” Young’s SUP classes run from May until September, typically on Saturdays and Sundays with three clients per class. Knowing how to swim is required. Private lessons and group lessons are available by appointment at staycharmedyoga.com. 32 | Arkansas Wild ¸ MARCH 2020

WHAT YOU NEED: There are specific stand-up paddleboards for yoga; Young said any flat paddleboard with no grooves on the top will work. There’s also no recommended dress code and many wear swimsuits, shorts and tank tops or leggings. A small anchor can help steady a board and a lifejacket and dry bag for a phone or keys are recommended. WHERE TO GO: Any body of water that’s at least waist deep will work, including lakes, rivers and creeks, Young said. Fast-moving water and lakes with boats can be a challenge, so she recommends finding a no-wake zone. Pools will also work, but make sure to tie your board in the center so it doesn’t float around. “You can fall and hit the cement,” Young cautions. WHO CAN DO IT: “Anybody,” Young said. “Even if you haven’t tried yoga before, it’s a fun way to get into yoga, as long as you can swim. Or, you can wear a lifejacket. It’s definitely just a fun way to get active.” BEST BEGINNER TIP: “Have fun and not worry about the way you look or trying something new. We’ve all started out as a beginner,” Young said.

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of trails right on the Bear Creek property for hiking, biking or ATV use. It is a photographer’s paradise, with sweeping views of the buttresses that line the creek and wildlife on every adventure. The nearby private Lake House property, with a 22-acre stocked lake with dock and fishing boat right out the back door, is also a favorite location for all ages. The spacious cabins feature native rock fireplaces, outdoor fire

pits, charcoal grills, full kitchens, linens, flat screen tvs with satellite reception (including SEC and ESPN channels), wi-fi and heat/ air that will accommodate up to 48 guests. Bear Creek is open yeararound, offers hunting in season, and is pet-friendly. Special winter discount rates are available in January and February. Bear Creek Log Cabins will quickly become your go-to getaway destination.

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SAM ELLIS, ROCKTOWN RIVER OUTFITTERS

You don’t have to head for the wilderness to enjoy kayaking.

Urban Paddling Adventures BY LUKE COOP When you think of kayaking in Arkansas, what comes to mind? Buffalo River? Ouachita? Caddo? How about … the Arkansas River? You’ve probably heard tales of the grave dangers lurking on the Arkansas: undertows, barges, boat-swallowing vortices, giant man-eating catfish — ok, maybe not giant man-eating catfish, but you get the point. For generations we’ve been told the Arkansas is something to fear and avoid, but the fact is it’s nothing of the sort. As with any river, there are times

when floating it is not advised, but thanks to locks and dams installed years ago by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, there are sections that more resemble a lake than a river. This applies up and down the waterway, but in this case, we refer specifically to the Little Rock pool. One resource in this neck of the woods is Rock Town River Outfitters, which can provide everything necessary to enjoy a day (or night) safely kayaking the Arkansas River. Rock Town offers many options to get you on the

water from single and tandem kayaks to stand-up paddleboards and all the requisite gear for selfguided touring. Rock Town operates from two popular put-in locations — Rockwater Marina in North Little Rock and the boathouse at Two Rivers Park under the I-430 Bridge. Depending on where you book, you will be a few paddle strokes away from riverine solitude on the Little Maumelle or urban sights and sounds of the downtown Little Rock skyline.

Kayaking Made Easy We asked Sam Ellis of Rock Town River Outfitters five questions about kayaking for beginners. ARKANSAS WILD: WHAT DOES SOMEONE INTERESTED IN KAYAKING NEED TO GET STARTED? SAM ELLIS: The big three are boat, paddle and personal flotation device, also known as a life jacket. Paddlers prefer PFD because, frankly, it’s designed to float you; you’re responsible for your life. AW: WHAT ARE SOME THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN PURCHASING A KAYAK? SE: There are lots of options when it comes to boats, ranging from short, squirrely play boats to long, skinny touring boats. Beginners are usually best served by what we call a recreational boat; this could mean a sit-on-top or a sitin, but the main characteristic all recreational boats share is 34 | Arkansas Wild ¸ MARCH 2020

primary stability. Simply put, that’s the feeling you get when you step into it and it doesn’t feel like it’s rocking side-to-side. AW: WHERE SHOULD SOMEONE INTERESTED IN A KAYAK AND GEAR GO TO MAKE A GOOD PURCHASE? SE: There are excellent independent outfitters all over the state. I always recommend going to the one closest to you. Just be sure it’s an independent shop as they’re best equipped to get you into the right boat for you. AW: WHERE ARE SOME GOOD PLACES FOR BEGINNING KAYAKERS TO PADDLE? SE: The Arkansas River of course! Seriously, though, there are all

sorts of good options depending on whether you want flat water or white water. A great resource is American Whitewater.org; it provides river descriptions and gauge readings for lots of rivers around the state. AW: IS THERE A WAY FOR BEGINNERS TO GET PADDLING INSTRUCTION? SE: Absolutely. The Arkansas Canoe Club hosts two paddling schools every year. They also provide kayak rolling lessons free or at a nominal cost in indoor swimming pools around the state, and there are a number of instructors who give private lessons. The ACC can connect anyone interested to the appropriate resource for instruction.

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SCOTT DEVLIN, CLIMB BENTONVILLE

Train on the ground before heading for the rock, experts say.

Rock and Roll BY DWAIN HEBDA Of all of the nonconsumptive activities that are sprouting up around The Natural State, rock climbing is arguably the most demanding and requires the most preparation. Would-be climbers should take the time to visit a climbing gym before heading outside to get a good base layer of fitness and practice in a controlled environment. “The way I describe climbing to the new climbers is, it’s kind of like a tripod,” said Scott Devlin, instructor with Climb Bentonville. “It’s part physical fitness, it’s part technique, and there’s a mental component, because climbing can be scary. We have this instinctual fear of heights, which is good. So when approaching climbing we try to address all those three legs of the tripod so they stay balanced.” Devlin said gym training can help a person in all three areas, starting with proper technique on the wall. “What I usually do when I have a brand-new person is I first want them to climb,” he said. “I’ll put them on something very easy and I want to see how they move. I want to see how composed they are mentally. I want to see what their strengths are. “Some people are just naturally good athletes or they have certain physical characteristics that are just good for climbing. And some people are a little bit more awkward and maybe need to work on some things. So, I try to get 36 | Arkansas Wild ¸ MARCH 2020

a baseline as to where someone is and then I’ll take it from there based on what I perceive their strengths and weaknesses to be.” Daniel Carnahan, general manager at Little Rock Climbing Center, said climbing often comes down to very small targeted things such as hand and grip strength. Again, the controlled environment of the climbing gym is an ideal place to develop those techniques that are critical out on the rock. “We wouldn’t enter a full marathon without training; we might get in a little ways before our muscles cramp up or get pushed to failure,” he said. “The same thing happens to your hands. You want to use all the holds you can. Your hands scoop all the way in so they’re using less hand strength and more biceps, shoulders, fullbody climbing.” Most of all, Carnahan said, working out at a climbing gym can help the newbie connect with an experienced guide, essential for those with limited experience to enjoy the activity safely. “As a new climber, you’re really going to need to find a guide or talk with your local gym and climbing instructor to set you up with someone who is at the level who will keep you safe,” he said. “There’s a lot more risk in teaching yourself. You don’t want to get yourself into a situation where you climb up somewhere and you can’t get out of it.”

Great Climbs for Beginners HORSESHOE CANYON RANCH Jasper “Hands down the best place to go. It’s a privately owned dude ranch that has climbing and they have fulltime guides that guide there. There’s lots of very beginning climbs there. Horseshoe Canyon is a great place to take someone for the first time or great place to take your family. It’s beautiful out there and very accessible for beginners.” —Scott Devlin, instructor, Climb Bentonville RATTLESNAKE RIDGE Roland “There’s climbing there built into mountain bike trails. People who have conferences in Little Rock or the 4-H Center need to get out and into the air and the sun. We’ve guided groups like that and Rattlesnake Ridge provides them the chance to do rappelling or gives them the chance to try rock climbing with a top rope. Rattlesnake Ridge offers all of that at the beginner level.” —Daniel Carnahan, general manager, Little Rock

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